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This is a true story. I posted this review on the Bosch Canada website as well (waiting to see if the company will post it). First stove: I purchased this model of Bosch stove in October 2015 on sale from Lowe's Regina (Saskatchewan, Canada). I paid to have it delivered and installed by Lowe's. According to the installers, sparks flew out of the stove when it was plugged in. I heard the noise but did not see where the sparks came from. The stove control panel was still working so the installers continued with the installation. Later, when I went to use the stove, two burners were not working. I also realized the installers had installed the stove so it was resting on my quartz countertop (which it should not because the stove weighs about 250 lbs). The countertop was damaged in about four places as a result. Lowe's is responsible for the countertop (still unresolved) and Bosch arranged for a stove replacement. Second stove: The replacement stove was delivered and installed by Lowe's in November 2015. At time of delivery, the following issues were evident: 1) bubbles in the control panel finish 2) warped glass stove top and warped metal trim (photos attached). I needed a stove, and given the concerns with possibly damaging the counter top further, it was decided to repair the second stove rather than replace it. Numerous phone calls and emails later (weeks would go by with no response from Bosch Customer Service US), arrangements were made for a service technician to complete the repairs. In the meantime, I realized the oven fan was not working properly. The speed of the fan cycled erratically. I went to Lowe's and listened to the floor demo to compare! I found many bubbles in the oven finish as well. When the Bosch service technician visited my house (twice), he confirmed all of the above issues. This process has taken about two months. Now it's the end of January 2016, and it's been determined to order a third replacement stove. Additional issues: 1) The Bosch installation manual says, under "Parts Included, that foam tape should be included "unless already installed on underside of cooktop sides". For both stoves, no foam tape was provided by Bosch, nor was it on the underside of the cooktop, to protect my countertop. When I mentioned this to Bosch Customer Service, the supervisor replied that the installers should have not installed it without the foam tape! I purchased and installed tape for the second stove installation which seemed to help slide the stove in more easily. 2) Also, for both stoves, the chemical smell of the oven finish was extremely strong when the oven was on. Eventually, the smell dissipated, but until it did, I did not cook any food in the oven. 3) I find the stove top elements do not simmer at all well. 4) Lastly, its tricky to move the stove because of its weight and the lip on the sides of the stove top. Funnily enough, during all this, my Bosch dishwasher was recalled for a fire hazard issue with the plug. You may be asking yourself by now, why would I get a third replacement stove by Bosch? I'm hoping the company will get it together and send me a quality stove? The price I paid was a really good deal. It matches my made-in-Germany dishwasher (which did not give me problems). Are there other stoves out there much better in this price range? Needless to say I cannot recommend this stove, especially not at full price. Good luck with your stove shopping.

Don't... buy a Bosch induction cooktop until Bosch explains the conditions that cause the cooktop to automatically shut off at some arbitrary time during use. This applies to the 500-series, 800-series and Flexinduction models. I discovered this can happen while reading manuals during my web research on induction cooktops. Here are the respective web pages and page numbers advising of this stipulation in each model's "Use and Care" manual: 500-series: http://i.sears.com/s/d/pdf/mp-tc/spinpdf/spin_prod_975580612 (page 14) 800-series: http://i.sears.com/s/d/pdf/mp-tc/spinpdf/spin_prod_975587312 (page 16) Flexinduction: http://www.goedekers.com/assets/PDF/Bosch/bosch-nitp666suc-use-and-care-manual.pdf (page 15) I called Bosch Customer Support 5 times over a two-week period and each time talked to a different rep including a Support Supervisor on my last call. I asked for an explanation about the specific circumstances under which the cooktop would shut off. I cited several examples of cooking situations where one would not want the cooktop to "just turn off" on its own. On my last 4 conversations with Bosch support reps, I was told they would research the issue and "get back to me with an answer". Well, they didn't get back to me, and I still don't have an answer. The support people don't know and further, they told me they don't communicate with Bosch engineering (who certainly would know the answer). How strange is that? But I was copied on an email from a Bosch Senior Support Representative to "an unknown at Bosch". The email contained the following exact wording from one of the manuals: "Automatic time limitation If the element is used for prolonged periods of time without changes in the settings being made, the automatic time limitation function is triggered. The element stops heating. "F8" and the residual heat indicator "H/h" flash alternately in the display. The indicator goes out when any symbol is pressed. The element can now be reset. When the automatic time limitation is activated depends on the selected heat level (from 1 to 10 hours)." The email also briefly revealed that "a customer" (me) wanted to know the conditions that can cause the cooktop to shut off, but didn't offer any relevant explanations. Whatsoever! I was told by a couple of support reps that the cooktop turns off for "safety reasons" but no other details were offered. Safety reasons? Really? Does that mean the cooktops are nearing a dangerous state? Are these Bosch cooktops the only cooktops ever made that turn off "for safety reasons" Maybe, but if so, I'm not aware of any others. I hope I am not alone in thinking Bosch needs to inform prospective customers exactly what conditions can trigger these (expensive) cooktops to shut off? Or better yet, just make a cooktop that doesn't arbitrarily turn off. Bottom line is, buy one of these Bosch cooktops only if you are willing to risk it automatically turning off sometime between "1 and 10 hours". Or, if you'd be content to just stand watch over it to be sure it stays on while you're cooking a corned-beef for 4-5 hours. Bosch engineers take notice!

So far we are pretty happy with this fridge but there's a few things to be aware of: - The shelves have little in the way of adjustment options, up or down and that's it. None of the shelves slide out or fold up, this is a nice feature in much cheaper brands and models. - No butter bin! - The very top of the fridge tends to freeze whatever is up there, in our case that would be our eggs. This happens when our fridge is set at 38 degrees even, which happens to be the recommended and preset temp from the manufacturer. - The produce drawers are very shallow, this is a trade off for having a water dispenser in the fridge, the reservoir (keeps the water cold) sits behind the drawers. I'd say you lose a good 4" of drawer depth from the reservoir... but the water dispenser is pretty awesome (more on that later). - Has adjustable feet instead of adjustable rollers, that means when you adjust the feet it lifts the rollers off the ground. Pain in the butt if you need to pull the fridge out for some reason, not like you need to do this often but still a minus none the less. - Lighting is not the best we had seen in our search for a fridge, All the other brands had lights all around to eliminate shadows and dead spots. This has two lights at the top which are blocked easily by eggs or pizza boxes. - The left door is a bit harder to close than the right one since the door spacer is on that side. Which is a pain since the water dispenser is on that same side. If you open both doors at the same time it's not an issue. Wish the spacer was on the right side. Okay on to the things that I love about this fridge: - It holds magnets! Love putting our kids artwork on the fridge and our GE profile fridge didn't allow for that. - From the time we plugged in it was cooling groceries in 4 hours. This thing keeps food COLD, notably our lunch meat which has an extra three days of life (8 days total) over our last fridge. - Ice! This thing cranks out ice like I've never seen before. 18 hours after I plugged it in we had a full bin of ice. It breezed through our last dinner party where most were drinking mixers. Love the ice maker, which btw comes with a built-in scoop holder and scoop and with the flip of lever it attaches to the door so it slides out upon opening. - Water dispenser rocks. We used to buy bottled water since our tap water tastes so gross, not anymore. Water comes out cold and it tastes like deerpark water. - It's a beautiful fridge and it fits like a glove in our cabinet cut-out. - All the drawers open and close smoothly, including the freezer drawer and inner storage. If you add up it up appears that the negatives outweigh the positives but I don't think so. We went into this knowing that every fridge we considered would have it's drawbacks. I only found one negative review in my countless hours of research and that is worth peace of mind to me. It seemed that for every good review I found of another brand there was an equal amount of negative reviews. We are a family of four with a 5 and a 2 year old and it's plenty of space for us at the moment, we do have another fridge in the basement that holds a decent amount of frozen goods though. No regrets here I would buy this fridge again for sure. As a side note this is the same fridge as the kitchen aid architect II series and another jen airr model. Tried finding the differences between them but I could not.

Oven racks are dangerous and ignition can take 30s of holding the knob down. 1. Who thinks designing a flip UP lip on an oven rack is a good idea? Hmm? You cannot slide a cookie sheet in (nor out) and if you have something of heft, you will need to put your arms entirely too far into the oven to put the cookie sheet or roasting pan down. It is such a HORRIBLE design flaw that the oven does not deserve to be in any kitchen. Even well trained adults will have trouble with this. What seemed like a strange irritation has become a personal hazard. The designer clearly does not cook. Or even know how. 2. The other strange irritation is with the gas ignition. The burners finally start in a reasonable time, but they needed several warm-up days before they started working correctly, which brings me to the oven . . . again. The first few times I used the oven I waited until I heard the telltale sign that gas and fire were alive in the oven; I left to allow the oven to preheat, and I returned to the oven 15 minutes later to discover it lukewarm. It was in attempting to use the broiler that I realized I have to hold in the broil (aka bake) knob for at least 30 seconds in order to get the oven to keep the fire going. Fire will start but it peters out if not depressed for 30s+. I'd consider gas company issues if the burners were still trouble, but the burners seem fine. One star because the oven sheets really are a very serious burn accident waiting to happen. They should be recalled. Update 6/7/2014 A reasonable question: are the oven racks installed correctly? Before I wrote the review I had turned, flipped and tested the oven racks in every conceivable configuration - should have mentioned that in the original review. I ended up going back to the way they were installed when I moved in. Here's why: When you look at the side of an oven rack you should see a divot. That divot stops the forward motion of the oven rack should you need to slide the oven rack out to remove something particularly heavy/sploshy, etc. Both lips up: the divot stops the forward movement of the rack without changing angle - in other words, it holds steady. So while you have to be crazy careful lifting items vertically off the rack, at least it won't send the item careening toward the floor when you pull the rack forward. Both lips down: The divot stops the forward movement of the rack and very unpleasantly changes angle. This means your lamb roast will come sliding at you. Catch! Based on the welding seams and the divot, I put the oven racks back the way they were installed when I moved into the apartment. Were they installed according to directions? I don't know. The contractors did not leave those behind and I had no problem testing different configurations. A reasonable person should be able to figure out the installation of the oven racks. The point is - you can do better when it comes to buying ovens. The ignition is still a problem 13 months after installation - it takes at least 22 seconds depressing the bake/broil button for the oven to stay ignited (ignites immediately but will extinguish when you let go of the knob "prematurely"). The oven racks are a hot mess, and it just isn't functional/stylish/cool enough to overcome its flaws.

I purchased this stove new at a deep discount from Lowes in May of 2016. It was discontinued shortly after, but this review may be useful to those purchasing used or those looking to purchase newer similar models. In a word: Don't. It works well enough, but it's nothing spectacular. The high heat burners aren't as hot as I was hoping for. And the flame pattern diameter puts all the heat very close to the edge of any commonly used pot or pan. This leaves a center cooler spot. The effect can be verified with a thermometer. So not the best piece for deep frying, where you need a LOT of heat fast. Unfortunately, you can't really use larger pots, as the burners are too close together. These same larger burners are too hot for most other cooking. And there are two of them, right up front. The single mid size burner at left rear is the most versatile, but still too hot for simmering. The special low heat simmering burner has such a small diameter that it is nearly useless. It heats only a very small section in the center of any pot. Often heating the center hot enough to burn your food while the outside edges are too cool. Useful only if you'll be stirring constantly. Oven: When baking multiple sheets of cookies, I can see no difference between convection fan on or off. Different areas are hotter or cooler either way. And no difference in time till done. I was really looking forward to the advantages of convection ovens, but can't see any. The dehydration function does work well. Reliability: POOR Four months after purchase the thing woke me up in the middle of the night with a series of 10 loud beeps. Upon investigation, noted an error code on the touch pad display. "--SE--." All touch pad operations inoperative. After googling the issue, discovered SE means a shorted key. I was able to reset the range by unplugging it for 30 seconds. This solved the problem. A couple months later I noted that the touch membrane was bubbled up and separated in a couple small spots. And then error sequence happened again. I had purchased the extended warranty, so wasn't too worried about it. The problem continued off and on for several more months. It has now finally broken. Reset lasts only a few minutes. Stove burners are still operative, but NO oven functions, clock, timer, or any other function controlled by key pad. I have extended warranty service scheduled, so I'll see what they say. Internet investigations seem to indicate this is a common issue. At age 65, I have owned several ranges. This is actually the first one I ever bought new. All my previous ranges came with the houses I have bought. Not one of them ever failed in any way. When I buy an "appliance" I fully expect it will last 20 years or more. I'm sure glad I didn't pay anywhere near the $1200 this stove originally retailed for. And I'm sure glad I bought the $100 service policy. I almost didn't buy this range, because I own a very expensive high end Samsung "smart" TV that is so glitchy and buggy it is barely watchable at times. My significant other recently threw away a $1000 Samsung galaxy phone because it it worked so poorly. I will never buy another Samsung anything. Coincidentally, I bought an LG gas range around the same time from Best Buy for my girlfriends house. A discontinued floor model, similarly featured and priced, it has functioned flawlessly.

So far so good! I must have spent HOURS reading reviews on refrigerators before settling on this one. Seems they all ALL have one issues or another. I think a lot of it just comes down to personal preference, which is hard to know until you own it. We were upgrading from an older GE profile side-by-side SS fridge that suddenly died (while we were on vacation of course). After several trips to Home Depot and Lowes testing out different designs, this fit the bill when it came to size, look, design, and price. It also had a lot more reviews on the HD and Lowe's websites, with most being positive. I decided to purchase it through the seller on Amazon since it was about $500 cheaper than Home Depot or Lowe's Memorial Day appliance sale price. I knew I was taking a risk with delivery, but took a chance thinking "hey, we've moved fridges before". Overall the delivery process was smooth. I didn't receive notification from the shipping company right away, so called and from then on they were ON IT and gave me updates almost daily. The shipping info did say it would only be delivered curb side in certain states, but CA was not on there so was hoping they'd bring it all the way in. Turns out it was too wide for our front door, and removing door hinges etc is against their policy, so it was left in the garage. Not going to lie, getting it into the house was a bit of a nightmare and the only reason I may consider spending more next time and having HD or Lowes deliver (assuming they bring it in no matter what obstacles). Had to take the front door off the door hinges, remove a patio light, and even with 2 big guys and a commercial dolly, it leaned against our outside brick wall and dented a small area. The dent is small, but seeing it is a constant reminder for my husband so we will be purchasing a new left door (fyi, no magnets will stick to the area to cover it). Replacement left door is $200 on Sears parts, so even with a new door, the fridge was still cheaper than HD or Lowes. Not going to list all the pros because they're covered in other reviews. I will say the showcase door though is fabulous for households with kids. I stick their drinks and snacks in there for easy access and they don't have to call me every 5 sec saying they can't find something (heaven forbid it's not right in front of their face and they have to move something over...same goes for the husband). Also, we have friends/family over frequently and this is a good place to put water/beer/soda etc so people aren't rifling through your fridge judging your food purchases :) I was also worried about fingerprints since our last SS fridge was hard to keep clean and stainless steel cleaners only streaked and made it look worse. Happy to report that smudges and fingerprints clean up beautifully on this one with Weimans SS cleaner. Looks as good as new (aside from the dent...grrr) after that. Some cons are: 1) the water/ice maker dispenser sits at an angle to where it's easy for water/ice to overshoot the cup 2) condiment space on the left door isn't the best with the ice maker taking up room, but I've still been able to fill it up with smaller condiment bottles 3) no egg storage, but really, is it that big of a deal to keep them in the carton? Sure it looks nicer, but it always seemed liked unnecessary work moving them from the carton to a plastic tray. If it's that important, sure you could buy an egg storage tray on Amazon for a few bucks. Overall we are totally happy with our new fridge.

This is a great range for the price. Actually better than ones costing double. We've been using it for 2 months. It cleans easily. The grates are heavy! with heat resistant rubber feet so they always set properly (flat) on the stove top and no issues setting them on counter tops with scratching. The only issue, and other have had this, one burner is hard to light. No matter what you do, it sparks fine, gas comes out but it won't light. Researching the fix. We did notice that the chromed aluminum burner ring will get dark spots when hot grease gets on it while in use. A bit of elbow grease and a good chrome polish will fix that in a couple of minutes. The variety of burner outputs is super handy. We decided on this configuration because others told us that the layout with the burner in the middle, it's hard to use the others when in use. We can put a large pot on the big burner and still use the others. And that big burner can boil stuff fast! Yes the stainless top is thinner metal than others. Not an issue once installed. The total depth of the unit is exactly what we needed to allow for a drawer under the cooktop. So far, so good. Update: July 2018 The unit has held up well. We throw the grates (well carefully lift..they are beefy) and put them in the dishwasher to clean. No discoloring or rust thus far. We are having the same burner lighting issues others have experienced. The solution is counter intuitive. Set the burner to it's lowest setting while lighting and it works fine every time. The flame sensors are not as sensitive as we would like. If you don't hold the knob in the start position once lit, for 15 seconds, the flame will go out. Some where down the road, replacement of these with better quality flame sensors might fix this. It's minor in the scope of things. Cleaning has been easy. Lift off the grates and the burner assemblies, pull the knobs and you have an easy, accessable cleaning area. We use Windex and a sponge, wipe down with warm water and a hand towel. Occasionally I will use some stainless spray cleaner and polish. After a year of use, it still looks great. Well, accept for the area we learned not to use the scrubby side of the sponge. The unit's biggest 2 issues are: the stainless surface scratches easily and the aluminum burner rings are now black. DO NOT clean hard to get off grease or whatever, off the stainless surface with the scrubby side of your sponge. It will permanently scratch the surface. This tells me that this is not great stainless metal. The burner rings appear to be cast aluminum that is machined. Any grease that gets on them will burn in place and leave the ring spotted black. This is a bad use of materials on their part. I am going to get them power coated and that will fix the issue. The burners all work great and the big on boils a big pot of water darn fast. I brew beer and this will take hot tap water to a boil in half the time using any of the other burners...or any other stove we have had. Monster BTU output. 5 burner cooks tops always get crowded when they are less than 36" wide. But having the big burner on NOT in the middle, makes this cook top way more useable with multipul post and pans going at once.

No, I didn't purchase this part; but, I have something useful to contribute regarding a leak at the bottom side of the dishwasher door. Since this is a Whirlpool parts number replacement as per my Kenmore owner's manual, I gave it five stars so I could make my comment. We own a Kenmore Ultra Wash model 66515795790 purchased 1998. It had worked flawlessly all these years except for minor parts replacement on the upper spray arm and dish racks. Recently we started getting leaking from the bottom door corner. I researched, read/watched videos, etc to learn the possible issues. Be aware, many videos I watched did not perfectly match my dishwasher design; so, be careful before you start doing some of the steps prescribed for replacing the door gasket, bottom baffle, etc. I had no clue how the door gasket was cemented in place; it's not cemented; it easily/carefully pulls out and the new gasket merely pushes into position. In both the bottom interior corners, near the front, there are "tub corner baffles." They also just pull out of position. There is also a "door vent screen" which is rectangular on this dishwasher and is located on the top, interior side of of the door; it's made of plastic. It simply pops off by carefully inserting a butter knife and prying it out from the inside of the door. There are two interior tabs that hold it in place. Here's what I did to correct a leak that had become pretty serious. The tub gasket had calcium-like deposits adhered on the front side of the gasket. I sprayed the gasket with a Lysol style cleaner and let it soak for a couple of minutes; then I used a super soft brush and cleaned the front of the gasket. Starting at one end, I carefully pulled out the gasket and discovered "crud" along the side/back of the gasket; I cleaned the groove the gasket pushes into and reinserted the gasket. I discovered the tub corner baffles easily pulled up/out of position; I removed them; cleaned them and the holding slot; and reinserted the baffles. From researching, I learned on a blog that if the door vent is clogged, unusual pressure will build inside and force water out. I had no clue how the vent face came out so I inserted a flat blade along the edge of the vent and could see it giving way; with a little force, the vent door popped out and I discovered an unbelievably disgusting amount of soft slime crud inside the vent. That got cleaned out and I snapped the vent grill back into place. We've been using the dishwasher for about two weeks now since the maintenance and we have not seen even a drop of leaking water. So, I must believe water leaking from the bottom side of the door can be attributed to the door/tub gasket, corner baffles, and clogged vent -- or a combination of all three. You should also check to be sure the spray arms are sound -- they do have quite a bit of "play" in them, but the screws should securely hold them against their own gasket. If cleaning these parts does not fix your leak, or if the gasket is actually deteriorated, then this is one of the parts you'll need.

I did not buy this part from Amazon, but I am posting detailed instructions to help anyone else who may be a novice at this. The instructions that came with the wheel were correct, but were too brief for us to fully understand them. (Updated 8/1/16 after I had to replace a rear roller) How to replace ROLLERS (front roller part # 2166108, or rear roller part #2150304) for Whirlpool Refrigerator model G2IXEFMWS00 You need 2 people for this job - primarily when tipping the fridge and propping it up. 1. Unplug refrigerator or turn off breaker to the outlet it is plugged into 2. Unload all contents in the refrigerator/freezer and remove door shelves (interior shelves can stay in, although it is best to make the refrigerator as light as possible) 3. Roll the refrigerator out from the wall until you have enough space to walk and squat behind it. Since you have a broken wheel, try to lift it up at that corner so you don't damage your floor. 4. Remove the plastic grill at the front floor level. To remove filter cover, twist turn to left and pull. 5. Remove the plastic bolt cover for the freezer door bolts at the top of the cabinet 6. Remove the three freezer door bolts and lift the door off the post (5/16") 7. There are 3 bolts holding the refrigerator door on (5/16"). Remove the inside most bolt. Loosen the other 2 bolts on the outside edge about ". Once loose the door will twist and lift off. 8. Lower both level adjustment screws at the bottom front sides by turning left. Remove them completely (3/8") 9. Remove the rear bottom cardboard/particle board cover at the bottom of the back side. You can remove all screws (1/4") except the one next to the electrical cable, and you likely will have enough room to reach behind it. The rear cover should flap freely. 10. Remove the 4 bolts (1 at each front corner and 1 at each rear corner) that hold the base plate on. (3/8") Once these are removed, push the base plate toward the back about 1 inch. At that point, it will drop down. 11. Tip the refrigerator up on the side where you need to replace the roller by propping it up on one 2x4 (1 "). Make sure the 2x4 is only under the lip of the outside box and not under the base plate. 12. To replace FRONT ROLLER , push down on the base plate until it extends about 1" below the bottom of the refrigerator. Reach fingers inside from the front, and push the pin out that holds the wheel assembly, remove the pin, install the new wheel assembly, and replace the pin. Make sure the wheel is pointing down (rotated toward the front) and not pushed back up in the cabinet. To replace a REAR ROLLER, you should be able to push the base plate back far enough to access the pin without pushing the plate down. Play with the base plate to line up the holes for reinserting the pin. 13. Lower the refrigerator back to the floor. 14. Push up on the base plate from underneath in the back, while pushing it forward. It needs to come all the way forward so you can see the base plate up against the bolt holes that hold the plate in the front. 15. Reinstall all 4 corner bolts for the base plate. 16. Then reverse the directions going backward from step 8, and you are done. This document shows the door and roller parts (Cabinet Parts) and the base plate (Unit Parts) [...]

*edit* I fixed the poor design of the burners. Read below to see why the burners were so frustrating to me. The fix: I drilled a 3/16" hole through the center of the large burner cover. This gives me a bunson burner type center flame (at a little velocity) in the dead center of the cover that rises about 4", kind of like a burning oil well. The ring flames still work, I just now have two sources of heat -- the center flare and the ring. I tried heating a pan with a hamburger in it and it started to sizzle after only about 20 seconds. That same sizzle would have taken 3 minutes or longer with the oringinal ring design. *end of edit* There is something odd about the stovetop part of this range. When the grills are install, the bottom of a pan sits about 1 1/2" above the burner cover. That seemed high to me. The small burners in the back are 1 5/8" from the pan bottom, and the two larger burners are 1 3/8" below pan level. With that large amount of clearance, a lot of the heat from the flames dissipates in the air before it hits the pan bottom. So just for fun I took the grate off, and put my frypan right on top of the flame. BAM!!!! started heavily sizzling in like three seconds. Put the grill back on, set the pan down, nothing. Bottom line is that frying (or water heating) performance depends on how far the pan bottom is from the flame. If it's like 1 1/2" as it is with this stove, the performance suffers a lot. I read some people thought it took too long to heat water, which didn't make sense to me given the high BTU from the center and the right front burners. Well, know I know. The grates simply remove the pan too far from the burner Bottom line is about half of those BTUs are getting sucked up by the air between the burner and the pan. Which means stuff heats up a lot more slowly, AND, the burners are heating up the house as much as they are heating the bottom of your pan. ***edit*** I decided to really learn how much slower heating is up on the grate vs. sitting on the burner cover, so I did this experiment: Test: How quickly I can get of water, about 16 oz. to come to a boil Pan used: Cuisinart 722-24NS Chef's Classic Nonstick Stainless 10-Inch Open Skillet Method 1: Pan resting directly on left front burner cover, burner to high Visible Steam: 1:12 Gentle boil, edge of pan: 2:00 Rolling Boil, edge of pan: 3:15 Rolling Boil, Center of pan: 4:10 Method 2: Pan sitting on elevated Grate (the normal way) Visible Steam: never, actually Gentle boil, edge of pan: 5:15 Rolling Boil, edge of pan: 14:00 Rolling Boil, Center of pan: never, gave up at 15:00, wasting too much gas Now what I'm trying to figure out is whether it is possible to raised the burners by about 3/4"... I have to take a look at how they're mounted. Just hate, hate, hate waiting a long time to boil water, and hate even more wasting so much gas to heat air and not the pot.

I did not buy this at Amazon. I mistakenly bought the front roller but I needed to replace the rear one, and was able to retrofit it. Here are installation instructions in case you, like me, find the ones that came with it to be a little too brief. For front roller part # 2166108, or rear roller part #2150304, for Whirlpool Refrigerator model G2IXEFMWS00 You need 2 people for this job - primarily when tipping the fridge and propping it up. 1. Unplug refrigerator or turn off breaker to the outlet it is plugged into 2. Unload all contents in the refrigerator/freezer and remove door shelves (interior shelves can stay in, although it is best to make the refrigerator as light as possible) 3. Roll the refrigerator out from the wall until you have enough space to walk and squat behind it. Since you have a broken wheel, try to lift it up at that corner so you don't damage your floor. 4. Remove the plastic grill at the front floor level. To remove filter cover, twist turn to left and pull. 5. Remove the plastic bolt cover for the freezer door bolts at the top of the cabinet 6. Remove the three freezer door bolts and lift the door off the post (5/16") 7. There are 3 bolts holding the refrigerator door on (5/16"). Remove the inside most bolt. Loosen the other 2 bolts on the outside edge about ". Once loose the door will twist and lift off. 8. Lower both level adjustment screws at the bottom front sides by turning left. Remove them completely (3/8") 9. Remove the rear bottom cardboard/particle board cover at the bottom of the back side. You can remove all screws (1/4") except the one next to the electrical cable, and you likely will have enough room to reach behind it. The rear cover should flap freely. 10. Remove the 4 bolts (1 at each front corner and 1 at each rear corner) that hold the base plate on. (3/8") Once these are removed, push the base plate toward the back about 1 inch. At that point, it will drop down. 11. Tip the refrigerator up on the side where you need to replace the roller by propping it up on one 2x4 (1 "). Make sure the 2x4 is only under the lip of the outside box and not under the base plate. 12. To replace FRONT ROLLER , push down on the base plate until it extends about 1" below the bottom of the refrigerator. Reach fingers inside from the front, and push the pin out that holds the wheel assembly, remove the pin, install the new wheel assembly, and replace the pin. Make sure the wheel is pointing down (rotated toward the front) and not pushed back up in the cabinet. To replace a REAR ROLLER, you should be able to push the base plate back far enough to access the pin without pushing the plate down. Play with the base plate to line up the holes for reinserting the pin. 13. Lower the refrigerator back to the floor. 14. Push up on the base plate from underneath in the back, while pushing it forward. It needs to come all the way forward so you can see the base plate up against the bolt holes that hold the plate in the front. 15. Reinstall all 4 corner bolts for the base plate. 16. Then reverse the directions going backward from step 8, and you are done. This document shows the door and roller parts (Cabinet Parts) and the base plate (Unit Parts) [...]

Don't... buy a Bosch induction cooktop until Bosch explains the conditions that cause the cooktop to automatically shut off at some arbitrary time during use. This applies to the 500-series, 800-series and Flexinduction models. I discovered this can happen while reading manuals during my web research on induction cooktops. Here are the respective web pages and page numbers advising of this stipulation in each model's "Use and Care" manual: 500-series: http://i.sears.com/s/d/pdf/mp-tc/spinpdf/spin_prod_975580612 (page 14) 800-series: http://i.sears.com/s/d/pdf/mp-tc/spinpdf/spin_prod_975587312 (page 16) Flexinduction: http://www.goedekers.com/assets/PDF/Bosch/bosch-nitp666suc-use-and-care-manual.pdf (page 15) I called Bosch Customer Support 5 times over a two-week period and each time talked to a different rep including a Support Supervisor on my last call. I asked for an explanation about the specific circumstances under which the cooktop would shut off. I cited several examples of cooking situations where one would not want the cooktop to "just turn off" on its own. On my last 4 conversations with Bosch support reps, I was told they would research the issue and "get back to me with an answer". Well, they didn't get back to me, and I still don't have an answer. The support people don't know and further, they told me they don't communicate with Bosch engineering (who certainly would know the answer). How strange is that? But I was copied on an email from a Bosch Senior Support Representative to "an unknown at Bosch". The email contained the following exact wording from one of the manuals: "Automatic time limitation If the element is used for prolonged periods of time without changes in the settings being made, the automatic time limitation function is triggered. The element stops heating. "F8" and the residual heat indicator "H/h" flash alternately in the display. The indicator goes out when any symbol is pressed. The element can now be reset. When the automatic time limitation is activated depends on the selected heat level (from 1 to 10 hours)." The email also briefly revealed that "a customer" (me) wanted to know the conditions that can cause the cooktop to shut off, but didn't offer any relevant explanations. Whatsoever! I was told by a couple of support reps that the cooktop turns off for "safety reasons" but no other details were offered. Safety reasons? Really? Does that mean the cooktops are nearing a dangerous state? Are these Bosch cooktops the only cooktops ever made that turn off "for safety reasons" Maybe, but if so, I'm not aware of any others. I hope I am not alone in thinking Bosch needs to inform prospective customers exactly what conditions can trigger these (expensive) cooktops to shut off? Or better yet, just make a cooktop that doesn't arbitrarily turn off. Bottom line is, buy one of these Bosch cooktops only if you are willing to risk it automatically turning off sometime between "1 and 10 hours". Or, if you'd be content to just stand watch over it to be sure it stays on while you're cooking a corned-beef for 4-5 hours. Bosch engineers take notice!

Don't... buy a Bosch induction cooktop until Bosch explains the conditions that cause the cooktop to automatically shut off at some arbitrary time during use. This applies to the 500-series, 800-series and Flexinduction models. I discovered this can happen while reading manuals during my web research on induction cooktops. Here are the respective web pages and page numbers advising of this stipulation in each model's "Use and Care" manual: 500-series: http://i.sears.com/s/d/pdf/mp-tc/spinpdf/spin_prod_975580612 (page 14) 800-series: http://i.sears.com/s/d/pdf/mp-tc/spinpdf/spin_prod_975587312 (page 16) Flexinduction: http://www.goedekers.com/assets/PDF/Bosch/bosch-nitp666suc-use-and-care-manual.pdf (page 15) I called Bosch Customer Support 5 times over a two-week period and each time talked to a different rep including a Support Supervisor on my last call. I asked for an explanation about the specific circumstances under which the cooktop would shut off. I cited several examples of cooking situations where one would not want the cooktop to "just turn off" on its own. On my last 4 conversations with Bosch support reps, I was told they would research the issue and "get back to me with an answer". Well, they didn't get back to me, and I still don't have an answer. The support people don't know, and further, they told me they don't communicate with Bosch engineering (who certainly would know the answer). How strange is that? But I was copied on an email from a Bosch Senior Support Representative to "an unknown at Bosch". The email contained the following exact wording from one of the manuals: "Automatic time limitation: If the element is used for prolonged periods of time without changes in the settings being made, the automatic time limitation function is triggered. The element stops heating. "F8" and the residual heat indicator "H/h" flash alternately in the display. The indicator goes out when any symbol is pressed. The element can now be reset. When the automatic time limitation is activated depends on the selected heat level (from 1 to 10 hours)." The email also briefly revealed that "a customer" (me) wanted to know the conditions that can cause the cooktop to shut off, but didn't offer any relevant explanations. Whatsoever! I was told by a couple of support reps that the cooktop turns off for "safety reasons" but no other details were offered. Safety reasons? Really? Does that mean the cooktops are nearing a dangerous state? Are these Bosch cooktops the only cooktops ever made that turn off "for safety reasons" Maybe, but if so, I'm not aware of any others. I hope I am not alone in thinking Bosch needs to inform prospective customers exactly what conditions can trigger these (expensive) cooktops to shut off? Or better yet, just make a cooktop that doesn't arbitrarily turn off. Bottom line is, buy one of these Bosch cooktops only if you are willing to risk it automatically turning off sometime between "1 and 10 hours". Or, if you'd be content to just stand watch over it for 4-5 hours to be sure it stays on while you're cooking a corned-beef. Bosch engineers take notice!

Don't... buy a Bosch induction cooktop until Bosch explains the conditions that cause the cooktop to automatically shut off at some arbitrary time during use. This applies to the 500-series, 800-series and Flexinduction models. I discovered this can happen while reading manuals during my web research on induction cooktops. Here are the respective web pages and page numbers advising of this stipulation in each model's "Use and Care" manual: 500-series: http://i.sears.com/s/d/pdf/mp-tc/spinpdf/spin_prod_975580612 (page 14) 800-series: http://i.sears.com/s/d/pdf/mp-tc/spinpdf/spin_prod_975587312 (page 16) Flexinduction: http://www.goedekers.com/assets/PDF/Bosch/bosch-nitp666suc-use-and-care-manual.pdf (page 15) I called Bosch Customer Support 5 times over a two-week period and each time talked to a different rep including a Support Supervisor on my last call. I asked for an explanation about the specific circumstances under which the cooktop would shut off. I cited several examples of cooking situations where one would not want the cooktop to "just turn off" on its own. On my last 4 conversations with Bosch support reps, I was told they would research the issue and "get back to me with an answer". Well, they didn't get back to me, and I still don't have an answer. The support people don't know and further, they told me they don't communicate with Bosch engineering (who certainly would know the answer). How strange is that? But I was copied on an email from a Bosch Senior Support Representative to "an unknown at Bosch". The email contained the following exact wording from one of the manuals: "Automatic time limitation If the element is used for prolonged periods of time without changes in the settings being made, the automatic time limitation function is triggered. The element stops heating. "F8" and the residual heat indicator "H/h" flash alternately in the display. The indicator goes out when any symbol is pressed. The element can now be reset. When the automatic time limitation is activated depends on the selected heat level (from 1 to 10 hours)." The email also briefly revealed that "a customer" (me) wanted to know the conditions that can cause the cooktop to shut off, but didn't offer any relevant explanations. Whatsoever! I was told by a couple of support reps that the cooktop turns off for "safety reasons" but no other details were offered. Safety reasons? Really? Does that mean the cooktops are nearing a dangerous state? Are these Bosch cooktops the only cooktops ever made that turn off "for safety reasons" Maybe, but if so, I'm not aware of any others. I hope I am not alone in thinking Bosch needs to inform prospective customers exactly what conditions can trigger these (expensive) cooktops to shut off? Or better yet, just make a cooktop that doesn't arbitrarily turn off. Bottom line is, buy one of these Bosch cooktops only if you are willing to risk it automatically turning off sometime between "1 and 10 hours". Or, if you'd be content to just stand watch over it to be sure it stays on while you're cooking a corned-beef for 4-5 hours. Bosch engineers take notice!

This is a good little machine for the price. Having said that it is much more labor intensive than using a conventional washer and dryer. I definitely don't look forward to doing laundry, however I have to admit that it is satisfying to have clean clothes without having to pay an arm and a leg at the laundromat! Plus, even though it takes more time and effort than if I had my own washer and dryer, it takes less time than if I had to pack up my clothes and drive to the laundromat. So I just grin and bear it. Insofar as how it cleans...well I was surprised that it cleans my clothes very well. I work in a factory, and while I didn't think that my clothes were that dirty, the wash water always turns dirty and brown, lol. So it's really getting the dirt out, I believe even more than if I had used an HE washer, that didn't use much water. It does, unfortunately tangle and twist my clothes together, however. When you're taking them out you have to untwist them from each other before you can dry them, but it hasn't seemed to cause any damage. It's also difficult to fill. I tried the completely ineffectual hose, but as I'm in an apartment I don't want to modify the faucet or anything, so I just use a bucket and consider that I'm getting a workout while I'm washing clothes, lol. I personally fill the wash tub to wash them, drain that, and fill it with fresh water to rinse. It works well for me. I think that other people rinse them in the spin dryer part, but without a hose I'm not sure how I'd do that. The spin dryer has good and bad points as well. Yes, it does spin rapidly, and does a decent job with getting the water out. I've never used it beyond two minutes, and usually I just use one, because very little water comes out after the first minute, and, because I'm in a third floor apartment and I don't want the vibrations to bother the downstairs neighbors, I balance it on the side of the tub and hold the washer while It's spinning. The spin dryer doesn't hold much either, and you will have to dry your clothes in bunches rather than the whole thing. The dryer does have a huge flaw: small items are pulled out through centrifuge and sucked out onto the outside of the spin dryer basket. This wouldn't be so bad, but I had an issue where my dryer was absolutely not draining and I couldn't figure it out...lo and behold I finally saw two washcloths down there, blocking the drain. It was a pain to get them out, and I finally resorted to turning the whole washer/dryer apparatus upside down in the tub. I'm being more careful now, and trying to put small items on the bottom, but it could still happen. It does come with a plastic disc that you put on top of the clothes in the dryer basket, presumably to prevent this from happening, but it still did. So it's not caviar, it's more like a plain tuna sandwich that is better than nothing. I would buy it again to avoid the laundromat, if that means anything. (I have to admit though that I only use this for clothes, not sheets and towels as I don't know where I'd dry them, so I do utilize my apartment's laundry or a laundromat some, but not nearly as much.) It does what it says though: washes your clothes very clean, and dries them to a little more than damp. Best wishes for your own washing!

This purchase was a regrettable mistake that I made. I bought the Samsung clothes dryer because I had such a good experience with their TV. It does dry clothes, but what a pain to use, and a risk to my clothes. The sensor dry in my opinion has only been useful when drying towels or large loads. It doesnt work nearly as well as my sensor on my 40 year old kenmore that I got rid of. I have used this machine for over four months now and am totally dissatisfied with it. Its a hassle to use because the sensor dry feature in my experience is super sensitive to fabric weight and load size. I mean SUPER SENSITIVE, and if you don't get it right you have to fiddle around trying to finish drying, or worse it may just shrink the clothes by frying them. Mine is biased to over drying the clothes big time and Samsung advises that is my fault for not getting the load size figured out correctly. And,I can not envision myself ever needing to use very dry or more dry. The thing that makes it worse is that the manual timer is extremely limited. Its called manual, but the only four choices you have are 20, 40, 60, or 80 minutes. So, I tried using damp dry so as not to shrink my long sleeve shirt sleeves. Ive had a lot of experience washing and drying over a thousand loads of laundry and Im pretty good at estimating the amount of time a not dry enough yet load will take to finish drying without shrinking my shirt sleeves, but there is no way to select anything less than 20 minutes with this machine. When I first started using it (before I knew I had to be careful) the dryer shrunk a load of my long sleeve shirts, and fried a load of my underwear. I always wash my shirts separately and my underwear separately. In summary, The automatic sensor dry is not something that can be relied on to take the effort out of drying your clothes, and the manual timer is very limited. Its a real hassle to dry anything other than towels or a big load of rugged clothing. My poor experience with Samsung service will be considered when deciding on whether to purchase other Samsung products. For those who are interested there are more details below: I am very dissatisfied with the performance of the automatic sensor dry. I tried to return or exchange it with Best Buy right away but they would not do an exchange, and referred me to the manufacturer who I promptly called. Samsung quickly sent a repair tech out, and the only thing he did was start the empty dryerwatch as it ran for a brief time and shut off. Then he said it was operating normally and there was nothing wrong. That was it. He did not test anything more, and never even brought a tool box or any instrument in. I continued to call Samsung and was eventually, after much time on the phone, placed in contact with a supervisor, who continued to tell me it was operating as designed and they also denied my request for an exchange. A minor annoyance that was not noticeable until I began to use the machine is that when its leveled properly nothing will stay on top of it while it is running. The top tappers off quite a bit at about 9 inches from the from of the unit and there is no lip at the edge. Anything set on top will fall off the front. The paint durability of the top from a scratch perspective is poor. It is really very soft and the top of the machine scratches so easily. I bought a rubber mat with enough friction on the bottom of it to stay put, as well as to protect the paint from scratching and that issue is solved. Samsung obviously doesnt want me to set anything on top of the machine. On the positive side, the filter size is generous and is easy to clean, the machine is an attractive design, the wrinkle prevent is a convenient feature and works well, and the paint color is a pleasing modern white.

The OEM part was a 3/4 inch snap disc that opens at 130C to protect the Kitchenaid oven while this part, the Clinac CS-7, is a 1/2 inch snap disc unit that opens at 150C. Unfortunately, our oven is rated for 4.8KW which requires 20A at 240VAC while the Clinac CS-7 is only rated at 7A though it should last a long time if it only activates during a clean cycle. A few months ago our oven failed. It actually turned out to be a bad cooling blower that allowed the temperature to rise too high and trip the thermal cutout. The repair guy replaced the old unit with a CS-7 bearing the correct part number and installed a new cooling fan. The first time my wife ran the cleaning cycle yesterday the CS-7 failed. Since they say it is a replacement for the 4452223, the original OEM part number, I'm giving it a one star since the original OEM part lasted 13+ years and probably over 25 cleaning cycles. After talking to my repair guy I'm looking for a different part to use in my oven. According to him he has a lot of clients with the same problem on KitchenAid, Whirlpool and Dacor ovens. These units fail during the cleaning cycle and have to be replaced before the oven will heat again. Update 3/27/18: I think I have found another part that will perform better than this part in my oven. I found it on Amazon for $5.99 and I bought the last two (hopefully more coming in soon). It is the Emerson 3L01-300 Snap Disc Limit Control. It opens up at 300F (149C) and self resets when the temperature drops to 250F (121C). I don't know if Emerson is the manufacturer or not since the label on it shows it's a Thermodisc 60T11. It's rated for 100,000 cycles at 25A and 240VAC with a resistive load like in an oven. The benefit of the self resetting feature is that it will automatically turn the circuit back on after the space behind my oven cools to 250F so I won't have to pull the oven out, remove the back panel and either manually reset the unit or replace it. Since it was half the price of the other units available I purchased two of them. This is not a surface mount type unit so I will use 3/8in standoffs under the mounting flange to just bring it in contact with the surface being monitored. Since it automatically resets, and thus is subject to wear over time, I'm going to mount two 3L01-300s in series. One of them will likely have a slightly lower turn-off temperature and thus do the switching, if it ever gets hot enough to turn off, so that unit will take the wear and tear. If it ever welds the contacts together then the second unit will still act as a fail safe. I'm pretty comfortable with the 3L01-300s since it is the same design (different mount though) that was in my oven originally. It was also made by Thermodisc and was a model 60F24, a one-shot 130C turnoff that had to be replaced if it ever tripped. I'm not an appliance repair guy so I can't guarantee anything but I thought I would share this info since so many people have problems with the aftermarket units tripping during the cleaning cycle.

Don't plan a brew day to coincide with delivery and inspect it well. My unit came damaged, but my yeast starter was already going and I had taken the day off work to brew. But for the price, this gives unit gives you (almost - see accessories) everything you need in a much smaller space than a typical three pot burner/brew sculpture setup would. The unit is well made, and when paired with the free app, makes brewing a breeze without taking the hands on art out of the picture like a picobrew or other fully automated unit would. I have made two brews in a week already. One I did in my backyard, and the second in my kitchen on a rainy day. This gives you an idea of the portability of this system as well. Something you just can't do with a huge brew sculpture. Packaging Terrible. I guess it could have been worse, the unit could have arrived non functional. Even though the packaging did not appear damaged, the unit came with several dings and dents. I have attached a photo of the worst. It does not effect usability, it just made me very sad. The counter-flow wort chiller on the other hand was not so lucky. The unit comes packaged inside the GrainFather with a plastic ring to prevent it from damaging the stainless brew kettle (great!). But something punched a hole in the outflow hose of the wort chiller (photo attached). I have made it work by setting the unit upside down until I can repair the hose. In this orientation it sucks air and aerates rather than spraying wort all over. Because I feel I could repair the hose, I did not request a return. It seemed wasteful. Quality The unit is well made. It seems the stainless is a bit thin as you can see in the attached photo. There were several dings that were already in the GrainFather when it arrived on my doorstep, and I do feel that I have to be careful not to bang it up even more. Time will tell with the pump. Assembly This is nitpicking, but the temp control unit has a supporting bracked bolted to the grainfather. It blocks access to the screws used to permanently mount the temp control unit. I had to remove it to do this. Other than that, its a breeze. Pump The pump seems to be perfectly paired to the unit and the shutoff flow valve makes it very easy to control the flow of the wort during mash. Having the pump right on the boil kettle makes everything so much easier. Nuff said. The only issue is that if you are adding your hops directly to the boil, you will find that your flow becomes quickly restricted during cooling. This can cause a much slower chill period than you are expecting. I hate hop socks. I like my hops to flow free. Accessories A hop spider would be a great accessory to include with this unit (see Pump). Heck, include that shiny mash paddle I see in all the videos and you really up the ante with this unit. Taking the lid off during a boil can be a challenge as well. Wear gloves and get one of these&nbsp;<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/Lunarland-Lil-Devil-Oven-Pull-Joie-Hot-Bakeware-Rack-Heat-Resistant-Safety-Puller/dp/B01DZIWFQU/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">Lunarland Lil Devil Oven Pull - Joie Hot Bakeware Rack Heat Resistant Safety Puller</a>. Works pretty good for lifting the lid through the hole in the middle. You are still going to need a second pot to boil or the companion Sparge Water Heater GrainFather also sells. Overall I love this unit. I probably will sell off my other gear!

After reading many reviews about washing machines before making a decision, I decided to purchase this GE washer. I've always liked GE products, but after owning one of their previous HE models for about four years and being terribly disappointed with it's performance I almost purchased a competitor's product. I'm happy that I didn't. Note that this is not a paid review. Now for the review: Cleaning - 4 stars. This top load HE washer gets clothes clean. I would rate my previous GE HE at two stars, so a great improvement. I considered going back to an agitator washer but worried about capacity and the detrimental effect that an agitator has on clothing. The only reason I didn't rate a 5 is that I haven't tried to clean grass stains yet. It's winter time here so I have no grass stains to work with. Capacity - 5 stars. The 4.6 Cu. Ft tub has plenty of room for larger articles, including a king size quilt that I recently washed. The last load washed consisted of 4 pairs of jeans, a pair of work pants, 6 shirts, including a 2X flannel shirt and a 2X sweatshirt, and a few pairs of socks. There are settings on the washer for washing jeans separately from other colored articles, but that isn't the way we wash laundry in our household. Features - 5 stars. As mentioned above, there are plenty of settings for your laundry, 13 total, including one to sanitize with Oxy. There six water temp settings, four levels of cleaning (light through extra heavy), and four levels of spin cycle from no spin through max. All are controlled with easy touch buttons. If that seems like a lot of choices, no worry. You can set the "my cycle" button to remember your settings. I especially like the slide out detergent and softener dispenser tray located at the top of the tub that mixes the detergent with the load as the washer fills. This also makes cleaning easy, although I've washed more than 30 loads and there is no residue showing yet. If you've experienced clothing stains in the past from fabric softener dispenser build-up, worry no more. For those who remember warm water rinse, that feature has also returned with this model. There is also a "deep fill" button, which I use frequently. Press that button and 5-6 more gallons of water are added. I like to see my clothes bathing in water. Also included is a "deep rinse" button, recommended for use with fabric softener. This uses a bit more water and increases cycle times over the 34 minutes they boast about, but I feel more at ease. The glass top makes it easy to see what is going on in there. Noise - 3 stars. This compares to 1 star on my previous washer. I don't worry a lot about noise as my washer isn't setting next to the television. It does make some odd noises during the wash, also not a bother to me. One drawback is the dreaded walk that washers sometimes do. The only time I've experienced this issue is when the load became unbalanced on the king size quilt. If this happens, press the pause button and wait about 30 seconds for the lid to unlock to situate the items in the tub. The washer "walk" and the fact that I haven't tried to clean grass stains yet is my reason for rating at 4 stars instead of 5. I could have spent up to $200 more for another competitor's top load or twice as much for a larger capacity front load but I'm happy that I didn't. We aren't a large family and the 4.6 capacity is plenty enough for us. If you fall into that category, do some shopping for the lowest price and I think you'll also be pleased.

I am a self-proclaimed "Messy Marvin"; I just am. Clumsy, clutzy, sloppy, messy... so many adjectives to describe the walking disaster area that I am. However, I LOVE to create in the kitchen--cooking, baking, prepping; it's all fun to me. The trail that I leave behind me is not so much fun. And, it seems that whenever I try to be most careful, THAT's when something explodes or oozes down the counter, or (inevitably) between the counter and the stove. Therefore, I had been searching for a "gap-filler" for just this purpose. I have looked at so many different ones, added them to my Amazon cart, then changed my mind for one reason or another. When I stumbled across this set, I decided to take the plunge. I was pleasantly surprised to discover how pliable they are--I kept thinking that there's no way any of these crack-covers will fit my uneven counter tops. Low and behold, a little silicone is all it takes to save the day. They set nicely in place and because of the tackiness of the silicone, stay in place. This, though, also attracts lots of dust and fuzz, too, so you'll need to be sure to wipe them frequently. I find that my Norwex kitchen cloth removes the lint with ease. Black seam protectors may not show the dirt as readily, though, as the white ones. The set in the stock photo when I'd ordered them was black, so I had expected to receive them in black. Mine arrived as White. At first I was bothered by the discrepancy, since my stove-top is black and counters are dark. The body of my stove is white, though, so it really is not too clashing. Overall, my opinion of these is favorable and lines up with the company's statements: THE SET OF 2 MULTI-PURPOSE SILICONE OVEN SEAM PROTECTOR; while it can be utilized to seal the gap between the stove and counter, it can also be used to cover the space between your counter-top and dishwasher,washer and dryer and other home appliances, as well as other gaps that you have difficulties cleaning. ELEGANT DESIGN; once you install this stove and counter gap cover, you will be surprised by how well it fits in the decor of your kitchen, featuring an elegant design that makes it the absolute best choice. it does't look intrusive in your kitchen. HIGH-QUALITY SILICONE; The Practical Ideas Silicone Oven Seam Protector has been designed with top-notch silicone, which is very durable, special flexible material will keep always flat to your stove and countertop won't warp or melt,it can resist high temperatures up to 446 F and 230 C. EASY TO CLEAN; Stop feeding insects and rodents at your own kitchen. Due to being made of high-quality 100% food-grade silicone, the Practical Ideas, oven seam protector can be cleaned in just a few minutes with a damp cloth, Its also dishwasher safe. - FDA Approved - GREAT ADHESION; unlike cheapish products, this oven seam protector has the flexibility needed to properly fit to both even and uneven surfaces, ensuring that it always stays flat and securely fixed. DIMENSIONS 20 1/4 x 2 1/4 x .5 Can be cut to fit your size. *****Complete with a 100% Money back guarantee.***** That part is key--if you don't like these, they stand behind them and will give your money back. That makes it a pretty secure bet--why not try them? I had received this item at a discount in exchange for the opportunity to share my opinion and honest review.

Well, I can't speak to its long-term longevity as I have only had it for a few months. But I can speak to how well it works as well as its relative noisiness (or not). 1) This machine has a LOT of customizable settings. Additionally, with the 4 different small basins inside the drawer for different laundry liquids, it can get confusing at first. I came from a very old top-loader with limited settings. You put your powdered detergent and non-chlorine bleach whitener in with the load. Later, you hope you time it right to add fabric softener. With this, it's all done automatedly, and has to be done with liquids. There's a small basin each for Pre-Wash, Detergent (where I put liquid non-chlorine bleach), Fabric Softener, and a bin for Chlorine Bleach use (which I don't). Each bin has a minimum and maximum fill line (as the machine uses siphoning). The 617 also has an extra pump and reservoir to mix the liquids prior to them reaching your clothes. This was designed to render a superior cleaning, and reviews attest that this might be the best cleaning machine on the market. What I do know is that, with all of the customization for temperature, spin rate, amount of soil, and much more, that it's very gentle on my clothes. And as a front loading washer, it uses much less water than a top-loader, so it's much more eco-friendly. Regarding noise, well, it's actually really quiet, certainly compared to my old top-loader washing machine. When it was first installed, I noticed it rocking a lot when it was spinning dry, but I called the store I bought it from and they sent the guys who delivered it to recheck the balance. Sure enough, it was off. They readjusted the feet to balance the machine, and once they did that, the machine is really quiet and doesn't rock (as long as whatever is in the machine is not poorly distributed). Some machines are direct drives. This one is a belt-drive. There's good and bad with each. Belt-drives help absorb some vibration. That's probably why Electrolux offers the 2nd floor guarantee. But belts can wear out. The nice thing is that belts are cheap to replace. Direct Drives? Well, the motor is attached to the basket, so if the motor is somehow off, you'll hear it and feel it. AND, direct drives are VERY expensive to fix. But a direct drive can last longer than a belt drive (Again, think of how a pulley system requires less power on a motor, vs the power needed to directly spin the basket). Kind of a toss-up, in some ways. Funny that it's very "futuristic looking", even reminding me of Dave the computer from the film, 2001. Now let me add this - I have read some reliability issues about this machine. Our dealer even said that they have had issues getting parts on a timely manner from Electrolux. Okay. We took a gamble on a floor model. The cost was about 60% of retail. We paid for a 5 year extended warranty. We figured that with the extended warranty, it would be a worthwhile gamble and still less expensive than the equivalent level LG or Maytag front loader. Because NO washers made in the 2010s are going to last the way machines from the 1970s did, any washer is likely to be a gamble. I'd still get an extended warranty. If this machine were to only last beyond the 5 years of the warranty, we'd still be ahead due to the great buy we got on it. But as a machine designed to clean clothes, it does that job exceptionally well, in my experience.

As I began to read this book, I was again reminded of how deceptively complicated the word "stranger" is. It could refer to someone we have never heard of, of course, but it could also refer to someone we have met or heard about. We know their name but nothing else about them. Then there is another type of "stranger": someone we think we know well but really don't. We have false assumptions, a mindset, about who they are and aren't, what they can and can't do, and whether or not they would be willing to provide or receive assistance. Alan Gregerman wrote this book to explain how and why - with all due respect to the importance of one's family members, friends, and associates -- it is imperative to engage, learn from, and collaborate with strangers. "People who are very different from us are essential to our growth and success as individuals and organizations." Just as Henry Chesbrough has devised an open business model, it could be said that Gregerman offers an open people model. How so? "Each day we pass by more than one hundred people that could change our lives but we never make the time or effort to connect. The best way to solve any challenge or create any new opportunity is to begin by being curious about the world around us and realize that it is filled with remarkable people, insights, and possibilities." Nonetheless, there are those false assumptions and, perhaps, at least some concern about being rejected and feeling embarrassed or even foolish. He suggests a new paradigm individuals and organizations "wise enough" to incorporate exploration and openness in their DNA. Here's its formula: Business and Personal Success = What I Already Know + My Knowledge or Understanding Gap + A Stranger (or Strangers) Who Can Fill It His citation of one of my favorite Charles Kettering quotations is dead-on: "Where there is an open mind there will always be a frontier." Gregerman devotes a great deal of attention to explaining how to develop the necessary mindset, one that embraces rather than recoils from exploration and openness. There are four core principles that provide its foundation: humility, curiosity, respect, and purpose. For those who are especially reluctant to become explorers of what is -- for them -- not only unfamiliar but perhaps terrifying territory, I presume to suggest one other: the courage to which Jack Dempsey refers when explaining that "champions get up when they can't." These are among the passages that caught my eye: o Questions that strangers can help to answer (Page 9) o The Race to the South Pole (20-28) o What Science Tells Us (30-39) o From Mindset to Guiding Principles (51-56) o Helicopters. Hairstyles and Cars That Won't Collide (64-73) o Finding the Right Strangers (78-84) o Recognizing the Genius in Everyone (89-93) o Rethinking Employee Engagement (96-103) o Why Collaborate? (110-118) o The New World of Customers (131-134) o Understanding and Empowering Strangers (138-143) o The Promise of Strangers (152-155) o Changing the Game (158-163 o Getting Past the First Bite (174-176) o Essential Tools for Implementation (189-201) When concluding his book, Alan Gregerman acknowledges the difficulty while stressing the importance of "taking the first step" toward understanding the potential importance of strangers to us and (yes) our potential importance to them. He observes, "As humans we have the amazing ability to be open and to dream, imagine, explore, learn, connect, share, collaborate, innovate, and grow, to go big instead of going home. So get out there and find the stranger or the [strange] idea that could change your life." Who knows? We may be that stranger or have that idea that someone else needs. Nothing ventured....

Bought a bunch of these replacement filters (10, I believe) for my Honeywell 2000 series humidifier. This "enviracaire" blue wrapping was a new thing for me.&nbsp;<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/HONEYWELL-ENVIRACAIRE-HAC-504-Replacement-Filter-Pad/dp/B00007E7RZ/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">HONEYWELL/ENVIRACAIRE HAC-504 Replacement Filter Pad</a>&nbsp;Never seen it before, but figured what the heck, maybe it's new technology & will improve the filter's capability. WRONG!! My experience has been just the opposite. 1) It doesn't last as long, working only 2-4 weeks before it's efficacy diminishes, whereas the 'older' filters with the plastic/wire mesh would easily last 3-4 months, sometimes longer depending on use. 2) Using the old filters, I would often take them out after some heavy use, clean them, and descale them before continuing to use them. Only after months of use & hard build-up would they lose their efffectiveness & need to be changed. With these "enviracaire" filters the build up isn't heavy at all, it maybe something else (see #5 below), they just lose their effectiveness very quickly. Read more... 3) I've been using humidifiers for nearly 9 years. I have a wine cellar & walk-in humidor, and for those of you who partake in those hobbies, you know how important it is to maintain proper storage conditions. So you might say that, yes, I do have experience in the use of humidifiers and environmental control. 4) I bought my last batch of (these) replacement filters from KAZ. When I began using the filters & encountering problems I contacted kaz to complain. Well, the customer service person who contacted me proceeded to tell me how it must be MY HUMIDIFIER that's not working properly as the filters work fine in hers! RIGHT!!!!! Does she use hers as extensively as I use mine?! I've been using the current humidifier(s) for three years with no prior problems to this!!! MORE . . . 5) Now here's the worse part, IMO. WHAT'S WITH THE FILMY/MOLDY STUFF THAT BUILDS UP?! When I began using these "enviracaire" filters, I began seeing a filmy, moldy build up in my humidifier's water system. Even after I thoroughly clean the filter housing & install a new filter, at about the 2-4 week mark (when the filter's efficacy starts to diminidsh), the unit gets this filmy/moldy build-up in the filter housing compartment and in the water (but it doesn't get into the tank). Whether I use a few drops of a bacteriostatic or descaling in the water tank or not doesn't make a difference. Never seen that before, never seen it with the older filter types!! This filmy stuff may be the reason for the decreased function of the filetr, at least that's what I suspect. So! Should you buy this filer? You decide. Personally, I think that the manufacturer needs to know about these problems and take care of them. As for me, I'm trying desperately to find the older style filters that had a wire-like/plastic outer mesh.&nbsp;<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/Honeywell-HAC504-Replacement-Humidifier-Filter/dp/B0000WM2IG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">Honeywell HAC504 Replacement Humidifier Filter</a>&nbsp;They seemed to work just fine!!

Total success. I hate those metal louvered things, and big-surprise, they don't keep pests out of the house. A neighbor's dryer had stopped working entirely a few years back, upon his return from an extended inlaw visit (part of the reason I bought this, as you'll soon know). Due to his limited retirement income, I helped him pull the dryer out, and we poked around to see just what had the dryer belly-up. Maybe we two knuckleheads could fix it by accident? Anyway... Guess what will stop a clothes dryer? Answer: pecans - lots and lots of pecans A mouse (we guess) started putting back pecans for the winter, and by remaining steadily at it for we estimate the entire couple of weeks he was away, managed to get enough pecans into this dryer to jam up the whole works! I couldn't believe it, but true story. Anyway, fast-forward to me getting this vent thing and using it. It fits standard (4-in?) extension dryer pipe (solid kind, not flex/corrugated) that you would run through a wall, and sealed up perfectly just pushed in - you can seal further at your option, which I did. Then, you pop 6 holes in the side of your house, run in some screws, and voila! You have something I associate more closely to a "commercial-duty" vent solution than the old standard. Everything that's true about occluding pests is just as good for cold air. You don't stop it from being cold outside, but you stop cold air from pouring in through your dryer. In the right weather and prevailing wind, I could keep beer cold in my dryer (when not in use), to say nothing of the energy wasted by chilling that whole end of the house. This was probably far and away the largest inefficiency with my heating/cooling - you'll hear builders talk about 'the envelope'. Well, mine had a large gap in it, through which I was throwing money each month. Guaranteed, the first February alone, this paid for itself. I've never felt even a puff of moving air come back through this thing. It's still connected to the outside air, and not particularly insulated or anything, so it isn't magically warm ... but it's the air movement I wanted to stop, and that's what it did. I'm trying to guess just which way the wind would have to blow and swirl to defeat this design. My guess is, if that ever happens, you have bigger problems at that particular moment, considering shingles are held down on one end largely by gravity too...just sayin'. This is particularly important the closer to the ground or more easily accessible your vent location is. You cannot install this upside down or sideways though. The inner cap floats up and allows air to escape when the dryer is pushing air, and when the dryer is off, the cap floats back down and seals perfectly by being 100% in line with gravity (in contrast to a flapper that is based more on 'leaning' closed, rather than 'falling' closed). I say that to say this: critters know how to nose and pry their way into things, but don't generally posess thumbs and all the finer motor skills and intellectual prowess to arrive at "YOU MUST lift both sides of the cap straight up at the same time, or it'll bind in the housing". Truth be known, I've witnessed full many a human found wanting in that particular comprehension... Anyway, forced air does that nicely ... mice, not so much. BOILERPLATE: It beats the standard vent cap/flapper (which my neighbor had intact on his older home), and I dig it. It also doesn't rattle/flap in the wind, so it's the silent option. I generally go for the cheapest thing first if possible, but this seemed to be, and later proved to be so superior that I don't miss the extra duckets.

I'd like to thank all of you for your reviews of this machine. It made the decision to buy it a whole lot easier. I've had this washer for about 2 1/2 weeks and couldn't be happier. No leaks of any sort. No problems hooking it up, well, except that the gooseneck on the drain hose is too small to hang over my sink, so I tie it to the faucet. Eventually I'll replace the hose with a better one but it's not a big deal. To roll it around, I bought an adjustable file caddy, like you put under a filing cabinet to move it around. Made it as small as I could (14"x18") and while it's not a perfect fit, it makes moving it from the sink to the closet and back a lot easier. I take it off to wash since the casters on it don't lock. Good thing it's a light machine. In about 14 loads I've only had to balance a load once when I washed a single pair of jeans instead of my usual two. As far as detergent goes, I switched to liquid detergents a long time ago, but I've found that even the regular detergent, as opposed to the new HE ones, do not create a lot of suds. I'm use to seeing more suds in a big washer so one time I did put in 3 oz. but all that did was force me to run the rinse cycle again to get the soap off my clothes. That's how you learn. But it still did not oversuds and leak. I normally use between 1.5 and 2 oz. of detergent for a large load and that seems to do the job. How dry the clothes come out seems to depend on the type of material. Sheets come out almost dry. Towels and jeans have quite a bit of water left in them but an extra spin cycle takes out a lot more. Everything else seems to fall in between. But I can do a load at night, hang everything up and they're all dry by morning. As far as wrinkling and clothes being knotted up, I don't find it any worse than any of the full sized washers I've used. At least I don't have to untangle my clothes from the agitator. I finally had a chance to try the Reset control and it worked fine. I started out with a medium load and decided after it had started that it should have been a large load. Just turned the knob to Reset and put it at Large. It stopped pulsating, added more water and then started washing again. The manual says it will stop in the wash cycle if you lift the lid. Mine doesn't but does if it's in the spin cycle, which to me is much more important. Funny, I thought the Jingle Bells that everyone mentions was going to be very loud and annoying but I don't find it that bad. I know you can stop it by turning the machine off but I find that it gets rid of quite a bit of water in that last minute so I let it finish. One comment about the pricing. I'm in Canada and while we can get other Haier products, the washers aren't here yet so I had to find a place in the US that would ship to Canada. That involves extra shipping costs, duty, taxes and then converting it to Canadian funds. I bought it for $169.99 US and my final cost in Cdn dollars was $337.00, which to me was a steal. Every other machine I looked at locally and online, LG, Kenmore, GE, Danby, etc., would have cost me a minimum of $600, plus tax. I must admit that ordering something as big as a washing machine online was kinda freaky but it arrived here safely, right on schedule, and right to my door. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend this machine to anyone who lives in an apartment or for any other reason needs a small washer.

This is the washer you should get if you are tight on space. I am rarely at home, always between here and there, but I still can get my laundry done with this guy on the off-weekend that I've got an hour or two to spare on cleaning. In my research, this was about the best mini-washer I could find. Don't bother getting the cheap kind; it is throwing your money away, and it is painstaking to do such small loads. Also, you would have to wring out your clothes and wrinkle them, instead of having a spin cycle. I had some trouble with set up - I ended up with two random washers leftover. So sometimes the part that connects the sink into the hose leaks, and sometimes the bottom of the washer piddles on the floor. Still, it's never a big deal, as I keep it in the kitchen. I think I may check the connection of the hose to the machine sometime. Sears guys I have talked with in the past recommend having something around the base of washers, anyway (they would know, they've heard the horror stories) - I'm sure you could find a plastic bin at a dollar store or something. The drain hose can be annoying to deal with in terms of finding a way to secure it. The booklet assumes you have a utility sink that you can just hang it on, but I have a kitchen sink. We've found that we can actually just lay it in our sink, but do get as much slack out of it as you can before you close the base of the machine. For leakage, sink adapter, and drainage problems, several reviews here can give you good advice on things you can get at home depot. I don't have a car, but for those of you who do, consider the idea if you need to. I have a Brita filter on my kitchen sink, so I can easily switch between it and the washer. Also, keep in mind that the temperature that your sink is at is the temperature your clothes are washing at. I have a "lever" sink - the kind that doesn't have two separate hot and cold controls to control temperature. Basically I have it on the cold side when I first put clothes in (to remove stains), and move it to warm for the final rinse (to reduce wrinkles and stretching). Here's how I do a load: * Reset to "low" water level. Turn the sink on to cold, start regular wash. When it starts to swish, I add less than cup detergent. (Never add too much; too little is better than too much.) * I gently drop clothes in to about halfway up the tub. I reset to "high" water level. * I set my cell-phone for half an hour. When it rings, the final rinse is about to begin. I change the sink to warm and add half a measure of Downy. Both these measures reduce the wrinkling you get when you air-dry clothing. * Wait a little longer, and jingle bells plays (off-key. To turn off the jingle bells, just push down the washer button to "off".) Take out clothing immediately and hang. (I purchased a well-rated Polder drying rack on Amazon. Happy with it.) I have only had an unbalanced load once. I could hear the pain from the other room, and then the washer stopped. Again, it was only once. I suggest you read the manual. (I heard someone say they just opened and closed the top, which isn't helpful for an unbalanced load - you actually need to rearrange clothes!) I never needed to level the washer. I think people who are having problems are either stuffing their washers with clothes or haven't leveled the machine. Another possibility is that they're misinterpreting the pause and clicking right before drainage as a problem. As far as "babysitting" the machine goes, I wouldn't say it was necessary. You should stay around more often than you would if you had a regular washer, but usually I'm doing chores in my apartment on laundry day so it isn't a big deal.

I like this fan. I replaced an "over the range" microwave with this fan. It fits the space perfectly and since it is a lot more shallow than a microwave I now have more room to cook on my stovetop - especially with the rear burners. I like the bright lights on this new fan too. I went for a mid-range price Broan because my kitchen set up (open concept room) requires a non-ducted fan (unless I wanted to hire a contractor for a major overhaul which I didn't). Logically, there is no way a non-ducted fan will ever give the same level of performance as a ducted to the outside fan, so it didn't seem to me worth it to pay more money for a more elaborate fan. Also, I noticed in reviews that the more expensive Broan fans have an automatic feature where if the fan senses too much heat it will turn itself on and run until the heat drops to a certain level - you can't turn it off manually when it goes into an override mode and reviewers said they hated that feature - I would hate it too. This model of Broan fan does NOT have that automatic on feature so that was a big plus for me. This model also has a completely smooth underside (other than the mesh filters) and I think it will be reasonably easy to clean. It has "rocker" style switches for the fan and the lights and I like that type of switch better than a soft touch button, I think they are more durable. Installation was fairly easy, my son-in-law helped me because it is awkward to hold something above your head while trying to fasten it. I purchased a cord (on Amazon, Broan HCK44 power cord kit) to modify the fan from direct wiring into a plug wiring and was therefore able to just plug it into the electrical outlet that had been used for the microwave. This was quite easy to do, the cord came with good instructions, just follow them carefully. I also purchased the charcoal filters that are used for non-ducted use of this fan (Amazon, Broan BPSF30 non-ducted filter set) and those were also easy to install. I also purchased the lightbulbs (Amazon, Sylvania #14700 50 watt PAR20 Halogen, set of two) and installed those in the fan after it was mounted. I'm telling you all of this so that if you want to install this fan non-ducted and not hard wired you will know you have to purchase these things separately (fan, power cord kit, charcoal filters and lightbulbs). It would be annoying to not have everything you need while doing the installation. As far as function I am happy with it. The fan has two speeds which is fine by me, high and low. The low is very quiet the high is louder but not unbearably loud. The lights also have low and high. In my opinion the low lighting would be a little too bright to function as a nightlight and halogen bulbs get hot so I wouldn't use the low setting as an overnight nightlight. The reason I'm not giving this product five stars is that the first one I bought arrived very poorly packaged, basically thrown in a huge box with a few handfuls of packing peanuts. The peanuts had even gotten inside of the fan blade part of the unit and I had to pick them out. I thought it was poorly packaged but unharmed and it wasn't until my son in law and I got the fan fully installed that we noticed a big "ding" right on the front top of the fan. It was such a bad dent I had to return the fan to Amazon which meant taking it down, packing it up and running to UPS with a big box. Amazon did pay for the return shipping and sent me a new fan (same model) without an additional charge. The replacement fan was very securely packaged in stiff foam. But it was a hassle, I had to wait for my son in law to have a free evening to help me again, plus the packaging and trip to UPS. If you receive your fan and it is poorly packaged, take it out and examine it very carefully before you install.

2 speeds. Low is whisper, but not doing much except air out itself. High speed noise is actually acceptable. Unacceptable would be distracting normal sound of a tv or radio about 6' from the range. My hood is about 27" above the range, little high. It sucks out the steam well enough. Bit of frying smell lingers. The filter mesh is rather light. I am using appliance bulbs. Short flood light bulbs may be harder to screw in/out. Thin metal construction. Came with 7" dia and 3x10 duct adapters. Plastic round fan and the fan blades connected at the outer edge. All in all, a small step up from cheap hoods. Still prefer these push button controls than expensive circuit board based switches. edit: 10/27 Frying steak, even breakfast eggs, thinking the vent wasn't working well. Removed the filters, put my hand close to the fan, then even my face. I can feel a strong wind. The fan is actually throwing out a lot of air away from the center of the fan. There is also some holes on the top of the hood that is throwing out air. The fan center has a decent suction, but overall, it does not work well. It is actually kicking half the cooking smoke/smell away from the hood. Using foil duct tape, I formed a barrier around the fan housing. Now I can't feel the thrown out air. But half of the hood area that's supposed to catch the smoke is disabled. Using a cigarette smoke, I can see that suction goes to the fan, but I can't see it removing adequate amount of cooking smoke. I don't know if this matters, but this time I used 3x10 adapter for existing duct. In another house, I had the 6" round duct and the exhaust was better than this. This is a cheap hood, working at half the capacity. Cooking soy sauce marinated meat. Smell is all over the first floor. I am sick of this hood. Took it off and put a round duct on. Tested on the floor. The "ring" around the fan blades does blow air away from the duct. Sawed off the ring and the blow away is even worse. These blades are just bad. I used to have (another house) Whirlpool (homedepot) with a fan and just blades. It worked much better than this. Broan allure 2 was good, except its expensive control board. QS130 is for looks only and some cheap, unthought-out off market fan stuck on it. Do not buy this if you cook. final say on this hood: I tried another fan blade. It is broan replacement blade. The motor shaft diameter is 5/16. It isn't working. I think any kind of fan blade creates a turbulence at the edge that throws some of the air away from the hood. The flat top also deflects the air away. I tried cutting the top to 9" dia and create a funnel (instead of flat top) using foil tape. None of this worked. The blow back is just bad. So I bought a Whirlpool. It was on sale at homedepot for 158.00 (black friday sale). It is actually similar style to this, but better built and better fan blade. It does not come with round duct adapter. It has the blow back, but not as much as broan. Why talk so much about a cheap hood? I expected too much, I guess. How cheap it is, I expected a vent hood to remove air, not actually blow it back into the kitchen. I talked to the broan tech as well. He blamed my duct. I told him that I tested this disconnected from the duct, and he would not acknowledge it.

After reading some of the reviews I figured I would take the time to say a few things.... First off... The reason dryer moisture is vented outside the house is because the designers knew too much moisture in the house can cause mold and health issues. That being said I can only recommend this product as winter use only when the humidity is low to start with. Here is a few thoughts. 1. As others has mentioned this is not really a filter per say. It's simply a small bucket that has water on the bottom of the unit. You add in the water yourself. The thoughts are that the lint will hit the water and get suspended and out will come semi clean hot air from the drier. I would caution that the moisture from the clothes will be dispelled into the room in a good amount. You can solve this issue by turning on your furnace fan to recirculate the air around the house if you have a vent in your laundry room. Or... Just get a small clip on fan and push the moist air out of the room. I use the furnace fan option and have no issues. 2. It will not catch all the lint. You will have to dust a bit more in that room. My purpose for this small unit is to add moisture in the house in the winter as it gets really dry down where I live. Additionally if you stop to think about it. All the air you are blowing outside the house is also leaking into the house in the same amount. Go outside and feel how hard the air comes out of the vent. That same amount of air has to be pulled into the house so you are actually sucking out the heat you paid to make in the colder months and raising your bills. In winter we have a heat pump that struggles in the winter to heat the house. I decided to plug the outside hole from Nov to Feb and use that heat from the dryer I paid for to help warm the house instead of waste it outside. You have to find the balance with this product. We noticed some laundry soaps when vented in the house caused us to get head aches. Obviously you need to be aware of this. We bought a more natural soap and the issue went away. You figure it cant be too bad because you are putting the clothes on your body but you really need to be aware of what you are doing. All in all after a bit of trial and error we have a nice balance of adding moisture to the house as well as stopping heat loss. Plus its nice to know the house is getting the benefit of the dryer heating the house in winter a bit. One might ask. Am I that cheap I am worried about dryer vent heat? Overall no. What I have done over the ten years I have lived in this house is look around at things I can do better. As an example.. Install a clothes line in your basement and hang jeans and things you really don't need to dry. Turn down the hot water heater to the lowest setting that you can tolerate showering. No reason to store extra heat your not using. Radiant barrier in the attic. Deflects heat back into the roof not your attic. Solar powered attic fan. Works like a charm and the sun powers it. House is all LED light bulbs. Amazing difference in the power bill if you change them all. ( Save your old bulbs you take out and take them with when you move. LED bulbs last 10 years or more supposedly ) Install on off electric eyes on out door lights. Now we don't have to forget to turn off security lights in the daytime. All these things together have chopped over $30 to $40 off my bill and I always have the lowest electric bill of my neighbors. That's over $400.00 bucks a year I can spend on buying other things on amazon. :) Anyhow you will have to be the judge on this product. The price is fine. It is a bit hard to snap the two parts of the bucket together at first but I think as time goes on it will be easier. Good luck.

I am a sixth year physics graduate student. I wish I had known a countertop dishwasher existed sooner! I actually do my dishes now! This would have been a Godsend when I was preparing for my qualifying exam, and I will love having it as I'm writing up my thesis. Mainly it gets 4 stars because it exists and there seem to be few competitors - I do have some complaints about the design. So far I have had no problems using it. It is a cheap, old-style dishwasher - unlike the newest, coolest full sized dishwashers, it is not good at getting chunks of food off and you need to rinse dishes thoroughly before you run it. Nothing that is not water-soluble should be left on the dishes when you put the dishes in or else it will end up on the "clean" dishes. This isn't so much a design flaw as a feature of a cheap, simple dishwasher. Here are the design flaws: 1. The hose to connect the dishwasher to the sink is shorter than I would like (4.5 feet) and starts on the right side of the dishwasher in the back. 4.5' would sound like enough, but if you want the dish washer on the right side of the sink, you have 2.5 ' of hose left, roughly, which means it has to be within about 18" of the right side of the sink. (You need some slack on the hose because it has to hang below the sink without much tension.) You can't put it on a counter across from the sink and you can't tuck it in an out of the way place which is not within about 18" of the sink. You couldn't put it under most sinks, for instance. If you can't put it within 18" to the right of your sink or about 2.5' to the left of the sink, you should seriously consider getting a cart to put it on so you can roll it up to the sink when you're using it. This is a serious concern if you're in a small, quirky apartment. (If anyone from Danby is reading this, it would be really nice if one could buy an alternate, longer hose - maybe 8-10' - instead of the default hose to help fit this thing in a weird space.) 2. You can't tell what part of the cycle the dishwasher is in. This means you have no clue how much longer it has to go or if it is in a part of the cycle that can be skipped. It seems to take a long time and if there's a drying cycle I'd like to turn it off sooner. 3. The on switch and the delay switch are not easily distinguishable and don't follow any conventions for what these switches should look like. The on switch does not look like an on switch, so I often confuse them. 4. The name of the cycles on the display doesn't make any logical sense. They are named P1, P2, P3, and P4. The only way to tell whether you're on the short cycle or the long cycle or the energy saving cycle is to read the manual to figure out what on Earth P1, P2, P3, and P4 mean. 5. The water does not drain out of the bottom of the dishwasher very well at the end of the cycle. 6. At the end of the cycle when the water drains, it is very loud. I live in a small one bedroom apartment and if I turn it on before bed it wakes me up when it is done, even though I have been known to sleep through smoke detectors and freight trains passing nearby. It's no problem when I'm awake and it's not loud enough to bother the neighbors since it's not a noise that carries and the noisy part is very short, but it's loud if you're within 40 feet. (A detachable hose on the bottom of water outlet would help dampen the noise.) So I would get this dishwasher again and I love it, but I think the engineers have some work to do. If you're going to get this, you should get out a measuring tape and make sure it fits where you want it and really plan how it fits.

I've only had this kegerator for a week, but I've used it quite a bit in that time, and I love it. Especially at this price point, I think it is a great value and I highly recommend it. With that being said, I've found a few quirks, and hope my below points help you make an informed decision on whether to buy this unit or not. PROS: - Temperature: I set the thermostat to max, but I did not do the thermostat alteration other reviewers mentioned. Even without that, my beer has been perfectly cold. - Size: There is plenty of room in this unit. It fits a 5lb CO2 tank just fine (comes with a 2.5lb, I just upgraded it), and when you're only using 1/6 or 1/4 barrel kegs, there's plenty of room left for frosty mugs, etc. - Easy set up: Within an hour, I had mine up and running. I found the instructions to be clear, and did not need to do any extra googling to find relevant info. - Looks: Clean, professional look. Mine was packaged well and didn't have a single dent in it. Construction appears to be sufficient (I didn't pay for a commercial kegorator, and thus didn't expect one - the quality seems in accordance with residential use, and consistent with every other mini-fridge I've owned). - It dispenses draught beer: It works! I'm getting great quality draught beer at home - at the right temperature and with the right amount of head. This makes me happy. THE QUIRKS: - The "lock" on the regulator adjuster: In order to change the CO2 pressure on the regulator, you must turn a knob - sounds easy enough. Problem is, the knob is locked with a teeeny tiny screw, which you're supposed to unscrew with the allen wrench they provided. That allen wrench was the same width as a tiny paper clip, and I couldn't get it to turn the tiny screw. My wife tried with her small hands and added finesse, but still to no avail. Finally, I gave up and just used a wrench to turn the knob without unlocking. Did I just ruin the threading on the knob? Probably, but it worked, and my beer has the right amount of foam - I don't care. - The Tower: When twisting the tower into position, it was very loose - no bueno. I looked through all the parts and couldn't find a washer for it. Just as I was about to improvise, I saw the plug (the thing you'd put in the hole if you didn't want to install the tower), and it had a rubber gasket on it. I put that on the tower, then it fit nice and snug (note: with the rubber gasket on, you have to put some strength into twisting it into place, but it works). - CO2 Tank: Mine only came with a 2.5lb tank, which is quite small. So I bought a 5lb tank, which fits perfect in the same place as where the 2.5 one would go. I'll just use the 2.5lb'er as a backup. - The #%! Silver Piece on Top of the Tower: So, on top of the tower lies a little silver decorative piece to cover up the hole - looks good. Yet whenever you close the door, the pressure change causes the silver piece to fly into the air like it's a cartoon on top of a geiser. It's fallen behind the fridge a few times and been a pain to get back out - beware of this. That's all for now. This is probably the coolest toy I've ever had, so I'll be sure to come back and make updates if I run into any problems along the way. For now at least, it's a 5 Star.

We live on a sub-tropical island in Japan. It is hot here, (90+ degrees with 100% humidity), most of the year and we are an outdoor family of five. My husband and my three boys are outside all day and night except when at school, work, or sleeping and we all consume TONS of water... I go through 15 gallons of purified water a week! Needless to say, as typical Americans, we like our ice cold but none of the refrigerators here are equipped with any kind of ice machine. There is not even close to enough space to store ice trays and an ice box in the freezer (at least not for a family of five!) even if you wanted to... which I DON'T... and I got sick of paying for over priced frozen water! I ordered this Machine and fell in love with the fact that I FINALLY had ice!! There were a few drawbacks in the beginning. As other users stated, it did give the ice a plastic taste. I ran water through it a few times with no success so moved on to the vinegar method. It did seem to help, although there was still kind of a funny taste to the ice. The good news is that after the first, or maybe it was the second, week the ice tasted just fine and you couldn't taste anything except water! It may take a bit longer for the average family for their ice to start tasting normal as we use an inordinate amount of ice,(remember the 15 gallons of water?), but it WILL start tasting normal. We have owned this machine for almost 3 months now and feel that it is definitely worth every penny we spent. We have never had a problem with it not functioning properly, (and I have a 2 and 3 year old who love to push buttons and wreak havoc on everything), and it makes PLENTY of ice, (We go through a LOT of ice, and although there have been times that there isn't much ice left from what the last person took after a full day of refilling sports bottles, it makes it so quickly that in 15 or 20 minutes or so it drops another tray load in the basket!). The only down side is also an up side for me. The ice does tend to be a little softer than what comes from the freezer, but that is to be expected considering how fast it makes it... Consequently, the ice does tend to melt a little faster, but I actually like it better because I like to chew on ice and this doesn't break my teeth... plus we mostly drink water so it isn't diluting the liquid in my cup at all so I tend to like the softer ice. My husband who enjoys whiskey and cokes also likes the softer ice because he too is an ice chewer. When we need firmer, longer lasting ice for a cooler or something, we simply let the ice maker make it and we transfer it into a zip lock bag and put it in the freezer for a while, or the night before. No big deal and we didn't have to pay for over priced frozen water at the store! In the long run, after doing the math, this machine will pay for itself by the end of next month an then will actually be saving us money! ***UPDATE*** We are going on our 6th month of having this machine and I cannot rave enough about it. With a family of five we go through tons of ice daily and this little baby has had no problem keeping up. The ice tastes great and contrary to my previous report that the ice is soft, it actually drops into the tray hard but starts to soften as it slowly melts back into the machine which in turn makes a fresh new batch. I actually have come to enjoy the ice being softer and tend to wait for it to soften before I use it because I enjoy chewing on it. I rarely write reviews, let alone an update to one, but I can't begin to tell you how happy I am with this little machine. You won't be sorry with this purchase!

I have a Class "A" 35 foot Motorhome and like most motorhomes under "One Hundred Thousand Dollars" the refrigerators are on the small side and in the freezer you need every inch. This ice maker was just what I was looking for, the prices is right and the size is perfect to store in the motorhome. Every few days I pour some bottled water in and make a zip-lock bag of ice and put it in the freezer. It took all the worries out of running out of ice. If we have guests it's great!!! Once it gets to temperature it seems to take off and fills up fast. It is also great for making crushed ice because the cubes have a hole in the center and are easy to smash. Only problem I have is that it is heavy (for me, I have a bad back) and to pick it up to the sink to clean it good is ruff. All & all: Well made, Nice looking and the only noise is the cubes falling which I find kind of neat myself :) It was about two months after the above review of the Ice Maker when it broke!! I did read reviews where others had problems with the water pump but I thought it was just an air bubble because mine stopped pumping a few times and all I had to do was tilt it a bit thinking I was releasing the air. WRONG!! one day that dreaded "out of water light came on and that's all she wrote. I called and received no satisfaction at all!! Figuring it would be too much trouble to send it back I decides to repair it myself. That is what I did for a living, R&D engineer, I have repaired more sophisticated machinery then a simple Ice Maker. I worked for "Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center" in New York City for over 15 years repairing Picker & GE X-Ray machines and Linear Escalators. I was schooled by these companies and was a "Jack of ALL Trades". Enough of tooting my horn. The ice maker is built very well, like clockwork inside. It has a good compressor and the design is excellent!! It has one flaw, the water pump! I took the pump out and it is a medical grade pump with a ISO certification on it. (ISO 9001:2000) Problem, after a long day of hunting on my computer and my connections I could not find a replacement pump. It is made in China by "HENG SHAN" model # FS60202M , DC 12 volts 0.23 amps. What I did was disassemble the pump, it is a tiny thing. Easy to take apart, it is a magnet driven pump. One electro magnet spinning in a sealed housing insulated from the water. It drives a smaller magnet that has the impellor attached that moves the water. Age old design used in many things such as fish tank filter pumps. I found three problems with the pump: (1) the electro magnet circuit board had a cold solder joint. (2) one of the windings had no continuity, which took me a long time to find the break with a magnifying glass and repair it. (3) both the electro magnet shaft and the impellor shaft were shimmed to tight which I found out after I repaired (1) & (2). That could have been the cause of the winding getting hot and breaking. The time it did run for was intermittent, it did stop on me several times, that was most likely the cold solder joint. Between that and the shafts being shimmed to tight put a strain and high resistance on the windings until one of the winding wires melted... Hence, a dead pump! After all the repairs (about 12 hours work) it runs great now, has been for weeks. You can hear how much stronger the pump is. If you can not repair it yourself there are plenty of small 12 volt magnet drive pumps that you can replace it with, just replacing it is easy, just take your time taking the back to cover halfs off (lots of screws). GOOD LUCK!! ps: If you need advice on repair of the pump email me at [email protected] and I will try to get back to you.

I am extremely disappointed in this refrigerator/beverage center, HC125FVS. I purchased it at a local "big-name" store. Firstly, the drinks on the top shelf never got really cold, and the temperatures varied greatly from one shelf to the next. I have 4 thermometers, and this is what the temperature degree results were at for the 7th (coldest setting) - 6th setting (2nd coldest): Top: 45-55 3rd: 40-45 2nd: 35-40 small bottom shelf: 30-35 There was an ongoing variance of 5 degrees per shelf. Also keep in mind that the average refrigerator should be at 35-40 degrees MAX. I called Haier and the agent told me that 125 cans is the maximum and they do not recommend filling the center to capacity to allow the air to flow freely. (Then why advertise it as a 125-can center???) I had it only about 2/3 full of cans anyway, and there is no fan in the unit to circulate the air, so how can the air flow freely? No wonder there is such a temperature variance. (Go figure.) I decided to hold onto it for a little while longer to see if I did get any satisfaction out of it. (The only thing that made me really happy was that it freed up a lot of precious space in my main refrigerator.) So, I held onto it for a few more weeks. The straw that broke the camel's back is that it is also advertised on the box to have auto-defrost. After I had it for about 2 months, it developed a thick layer of frost, and it never auto-defrosted. The manual made no mention of the auto-defrost and how it is supposed to work. So, I called Haier America and asked why it had not defrosted yet. I spoke with two different agents and both told me that they did not see auto-defrost as one of the options on this refrigerator. (Go figure, again.) Oh, one more thing. This center was constantly running. Although it has been a hot summer, my electric bills have never been above $190 in all the years that I have lived in this house. I was shocked when my electric bill went from $170 one month to $260 the next month after the first use of this center. My next electric bill should be coming soon, and I am bracing myself. Although I cannot say 100% sure that this center contributed greatly to the big jump in my bill, but when I turned it off, my electric meter's wheel slowed down quite a bit. It is going back to the store this weekend. Thank goodness I can return it after 2 months to my local store... Well, I hope you find this review helpful. P.S. I just ordered a Danby Designer 4.4 Cu ft compact refrigerator that it is Energy Star rated. I have seen great feedback (4.63 stars out of 5)on the Danby from over 40 reviews, and I have my fingers crossed that it works better. It's also 0.4 cu ft bigger than the Haier... UPDATE: After I stopped using this beverage center, my electric bill went back down to normal levels on my October 2008 bill. I got the Danby, and I am so much happier with the Danby. Its auto-defrost works and it is energy efficient, which is the opposite of this Haier. UPDATE 7/9/09: It's the following summer, and I still love the Danby. My electric bills are still at their usual levels of $170-$190. Therefore, I am convinced the Haier is the reason for the jump in my bill last year. As I previously mentioned, the Haier was running constantly.

We've owned this machine a little over a year at this point, and STILL love this dryer. It works as good now as the day it was purchased. I'm averaging six loads of drying per week, and this little wonder has had no trouble keeping up, even with big thick bath towels. :) Our apartment doesn't have the room, nor a 220v plug for a standard clothes dryer, so we were so thrilled to find this compact little unit that could be safely hooked up to an indoor venting system (<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/Dundas-Jafine-TDIDVKZW-ProFlex-Indoor-Dryer-Vent-Kit-with-4-Inch-by-5-Foot-ProFlex-Duct/dp/B000DZFTC6/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">Dundas Jafine TDIDVKZW ProFlex Indoor Dryer Vent Kit with 4-Inch by 5-Foot ProFlex Duct</a>) and takes up very little room. It is wall-mountable (kit is included with the dryer - you just need a couple of wood slats or a piece of plywood), but works just as well on a table. We have ours on a little $14 Ikea side table (<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/IKEA-Lack-Side-Table-Black/dp/B004IN2XIW/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">IKEA Lack Side Table - Black</a>) [we've uploaded pictures to Amazon.com], and were pleasantly surprised we didn't see a need to strap or bolt it down, as it doesn't move even when in use. Very sturdy! You can also place it on the floor if needed, but with the controls on the bottom front, it would be a bit more awkward to operate. Owning this machine has been a big stress-reliever. We bought it as it was stressful trying to do laundry using the pay-per-use machines in our apartment complex. We didn't enjoy paying $5 to wash+dry each load and not being sure our clothes are even getting clean, not having clothes dry fully, trying to use the machines when someone constantly seems to be using them for a home laundry business, worrying about someone dumping a bleach into washers, or putting wax crayons, felt markers, and lipsticks in dryers as a prank, dealing with the residue of someone's greasy clothes or fabric dyes in the machines, etc. The list of stresses using shared laundry facilities goes on and on. Having this dryer has certainly eliminated them! I highly recommend this dryer, as it's good value for the price, and fits into our little apartment with ease. They make good wedding and baby gifts to those like us who have limited space and/or can't hook up full-size appliances because of electrical outlets. We also bought a Haier portable washer&nbsp;<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/Haier-HLP21N-Pulsator-1-Cubic-Foot-Portable-Washer/dp/B002UYSHMM/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">Haier HLP21N Pulsator 1-Cubic-Foot Portable Washer</a>&nbsp;to go with this dryer, and love it too! Wool Lint Filter cleaning: I tried cleaning the wool pad circular filter with a soft old toothbrush, but found brushing the wool wore it out too quickly, and I've had to replace the pad more often than would have been normally necessary. What works best for me is to use lint rollers (I use the dollar store ones that have sticky paper as they work great) to clean off lint remnants after pulling off the large pieces. I average three sticky sheets per two loads of drying, and find this method is simple, cheap and better than replacing filters every two months at $9 per filter (shipped to Canada). You can also vacuum the filter, but for me it's much more convenient to use lint rollers. The filters on this machine are quite effective and very very little lint ever gets vented out, which is great for an indoor venting system.

I sell appliances for a living, so I know quite a lot about them. I bought one of the first little Haier washers 6 years ago, and ever since, I wished there was a matching dryer. Since my washer has held up so well all this time (never a problem and I use it LOTS), I decided to buy this dryer right away once I discovered it. I've had it about a month. Let me tell you about dryers: Get the biggest one you have space for, same as for washers. and you'll be happier. I move often and I tend to rent small places, so this is the only one to consider; It's either this or drying racks! All the other portables currantly out there are bigger and more cumbersome than this one. This one truly is portable in that I can pick it up and carry it easily. But, it will not hold as many clothes as the bigger ones. It is, however, perfect for the little Haier washers. If you want faster drying times, be prepared to have a 220v or gas line installed. (Your landlord will go for that, sure!) Otherwise, 120v portable dryers are going to take, on average, 90 minutes per load. The flip side of this is that you can operate it almost ANYWHERE, and your landlord doesn't even need to know you have it! 120v dryers also do not have to be vented outside. They do not produce nearly the lint of larger dryers. You can if you want. Tinier dryers may produce an extra wrinkle or two over largers ones. They don't have as much room for tumbling, so, be sure not to overload this one. That will also affect drying time. No dryer should be filled more than half full of wet clothes, unless you like ironing out wrinkles. I ordered this from Amazon, thinking that I was getting the one with the window and the dial. Instead, I got the one with the electronic controls, which is the nicer one. I'm not sure the window/dial version is available anymore. This has all electronic controls with many little lights. Very hi-tek! It has a sensor dry feature that is usually accurate. Sometimes, I'll need to add some manual dry time afterwards, especially if I've mixed lightweight with heavier weight fabrics, as that throws the sensor off a little. Of course, keeping like-weight clothes together would be better. There are 3 auto-dry cyles: Normal, Heavy, and Delicate. Use Heavy for Jeans and Towels. I'm not sure when I'll ever use Delicate, as 120v dryers only dry on low heat! That is why they take longer to dry. I believe that cycle uses an even lower heat. There is also timed dry available. Drying status lights (drying, cooling, done, and check lint filter) are helpful. It has an end-of-cycle signal. It does not have a drying rack, as some descriptions on the web have stated. This, like my little washer, is surprisingly well-built! It has a metal body (I was expecting plastic). I think it will last a long time, hassle-free, just like my washer has. My only real complaint is the lint filter. It seems fragile and it is the most bothersome one I've ever had to clean! There are two filters nested together, one fine and the other course, and both have to be cleaned. It is located on the back of the drum and doesn't pull off that easily. I imagine this is necessary, though, because of the dryer's small size. I wish Haier would have made a stronger, more convenient filter. THIS IS THE ONLY REASON I AM GIVING THIS DRYER FOUR INSTEAD OF FIVE STARS. Overall, if space and portability are your chief concerns, Haier's small washers and this dryer are very, very good! I highly recommend them. However, if you have more space, and stay put for many years, get something bigger.

Exact replacement for Kenmore humidifier, model #758.144170 console humidifier. I have been using them for 1.5 months. The house was down to 10% humidity due to lack of filters AND outside temperatures between -10 and 20 degrees. I have electronic thermometers that record the min/max temperatures AND min/max humidity both inside and outside. Even the outdoor humidity was 30% or less (VERY dry). I live in central MA; review was written when cold snap hit us for ~2 weeks (12/22/17 through 1/8/18). I put in these new filters and put the fan speed on my humidifier on medium and did this for 1 WEEK (3 fan speeds on my console humidifier). Despite the cold weather and dry conditions, the indoor humidity was brought up from 10% to 45%. After that, I put the fan speed on low and the humidifier has been operating quietly and cycling (on/off) for the past two weeks. I use a combo bacteriostat (mold, bacteria growth) and water treatment (hard water) to improve filter operations (BestAir Golden Solution Humidifier -> found at Lowe's or on eBay). COMMENTS on POSTS: I have a whole house humidifier (1,800 sq. ft.). The humidity where the humidifier is located measures 48% and at the opposite end of the house (ranch style) measures 45%. The house is heated with oil-fired forced hot water baseboard heat. It takes time for the moisture to build up and then "filter" its way throughout the house. I started out at 10% and using a medium fan speed had to run the humidifier constantly for a week to get the humidity levels up. You're not just adding moisture into the air, it's EVERYTHING in your home (wood floors, furniture, curtains, etc.). I do find that I have to fill up one water tank (humidifier has two 2.5 gallon water tanks) on a daily basis. Some people have posted that this is excessive. Honestly, these wicks are doing their job because in colder weather, the humidity levels drop both outside AND inside your home more excessively. This means you need more water to get into the air as opposed to when outside temperatures are in the 40s to 60s (warmer air can hold more moisture than colder air). I have also found that my humidifier cycles more "off" than "on" suggesting that these paper wicks are getting the humidity into the air despite dry conditions. The filters have to put into the humidifier CAREFULLY because of a slight design flaw with the holders. The plastic holders for my wick filters are rounded on the bottom but fit into a straight holder on the top. Essentially, the filters are gently but noticeably being "bent" from a curved surface to a straight surface. Like the OEM wicks, I had to put them in gently and made sure they were not wet. DON'T try to flip these wicks to get extra life out of them. They will generally last a whole season (get more "strained" into the fourth month of use). When these wicks are wet, they will fall apart when you try to take them out of the holder and turn them around. Remember, the wicks are made out of paper and paper loses its cohesive properties when wet (pick up a 3 ounce fishing weight with two pages of dry newsprint and then try the same thing with the newsprint soaking wet. You'll be lucky if the pages don't fall apart when you handle them!). Paper wicks may seem "cheap" but the paper weave really soaks up the water better than some of the plastic honeycomb filters I have tried in the past. In my area, we have free recycling so a used paper wick goes into the paper recycle bin. Environmental impact kept to a minimum. Please let me know if you find this review helpful.

In the heirarchy of cooktops, induction is king. Although induction is powered by electricity, it should not be confused with traditional electric cooking. Induction provides instantaneous results. The speed of heating a pan is amazing (surpasses gas and electric in speed and control), it does not throw heat (other than the hot pan), and the lack of heat generated beneath the surface means the cooktop is much cooler than either electric or gas, because there are no heating elements in the unit. Also, induction costs far less to operate than gas or electric. This unit has digital controls (with a lit display that only shows when it is on), and I know, for example, that olive oil will burn in the pan above 5, but 4.5 is perfect for sauteing. And it will remain perfect for sauteing throughout the entire cooking process, it will not get hotter or colder. Furthermore, you can store anything on the cooktop (we keep a bottle of olive oil on there, as well as a non-magnetic spoon rest. They stay cool to the touch regardless of how many units are on. Now there are downsides. 1. Cost: cost prohibitive for many, by far the most significant factor. There are no freestanding range/oven combos, which means that you need to spend money on individual range and oven to get a functional kitchen. Furthermore, unless you have a 40A cooktop in place, you will need to upgrade your electric. The total cost for us was around thirty two hundred for both the wall oven and the cooktop, with an additional cost of $150 for the electrician, and about $300 in replacing the pans. 2. Cookware: although most high end pans are made to be induction compatible, the majority of widely available cookware is not. Especially non-stick. I found a couple nice "eco" non-stick pans at a homegoods store, but be advised to take a magnet along with you shopping, and only buy pans to which it sticks. That being said, all-clad is typically induction compatible, and there is a wide movement to making pans that way. 3. Probably not a wise investment at this point if looking for a return on a home renovation for sale. While many people discover the benefits of induction for themselves, it hasn't taken off in the US yet, and most people won't know the difference until using it. I doubt people would recognize the benefits if we went to sell the house. Perhaps a brochure would be in order... Now for those that hate electric cooking, but don't have gas lines, this is an amazing solution--I think it is far better than the other methods of cooking. Also, if you frequently cook but have a smaller kitchen, this will keep it cooler. If you have gas lines, I'd have to say that the benefits of induction (compared to gas) do not outweigh the initial cost. This cost could be recouped by energy savings if you cook A LOT, or by weighing in other considerations, such as small children being burned. The 30" is very useful, and is equivalent to a standard freestanding cooking range. The 36" model would be appropriate if you are accustomed to having a 6 burner cooktop. I don't have any basis for comparison to other induction units, but I cannot find any faults with this unit. UPDATE: After cooking on this for over a year, I have a few additional comments: 1. Some induction compatible pans make noise when heating, not loud, but rather annoying. 2. The glass has scratched slightly in places. Still looks very sleek though. 3. Controls are annoying to clean. Despite the "control lock" button, when you clean the rest the water activates the buttons, making an error message and a beeping noise. 4. There should be a better way to seal off the edges next to the countertop. Has anyone tried silicon? 5. There are now "all in one" cooktop/oven slide in units available. UPDATE: Barkeepers friend works extremely well to clean the cooktop

I use this cooktop on a 30amp circuit with Anolon hard anodized copper bottom cookware. I read a lot of reviews about this cooktop and was worried about the performance of the cooktop relative to a gas cooktop, wondered if my circuit had enough juice to power this cooktop and stressed over buying cookware that would not buzz or rattle. Getting a gas cooktop was unfortunately not an option with the home I just purchased and regular electric cooktops have never impressed me. I did not buy this on Amazon and bought it at a local big box that starts with L, ends in S and has a OWE in the middle. Price was the same as Amazon, at the time, and preferred to buy local in case I had to return due to lack of compatibility with my countertop or the electric needs. I was also able to get a 4 year in-home warranty from the same store for 120 bucks which was a bargain in my opinion. I've been using this cooktop for 3 months now and so far zero issues with my 30amp circuit. Ive even turned all burners on to a high setting and did not trip the breaker. This cooktop is the real deal and I can't believe I'm saying this but I actually prefer it over gas. The heat control, clean up and lack of hot surfaces on pot handles really make it shine. The heat control for me has been the biggest surprise. Heat setting for each burner goes up in half steps. 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, etc. As me and my wife get more experience cooking on it we share settings with each other to see what numbers work best. Everything we are making is remarkably consistent now. Pancakes are always golden, pasta is prefect etc. no more guesswork! It's as simple as finding the best number for each burner according to what your making. Ex: we make pancakes on the large burner using number 3. I read one review where somebody mentioned that they had trouble cleaning the touch screen control area due to water canceling out the control lock? Read another where someone mentioned it easily scratches? Several where they talked about "relearning how to cook everything" on induction coming from gas or regular electric? No to all in my experience. Cleaning and Scratches: Push and hold the control lock for 5 seconds and nothing on the cooktop will work except the timer button. I use Weiman glass cooktop wipes to get off any food and then little dots of Weiman glass cooktop cleaner with a baby burb cloth. Gets it showroom clean every single time with less than 2 mins of effort. You want to clean it like this for the simple fact that hard particles like salt and a flat bottom pot surface will definitely lead to scratches. I clean it after every use and always check my flat bottom cookware prior to use and I've had no scratch issues. Relearning how to cook? Really? I think the learning curve is similar to getting a new TV or cell phone. Sure awkward the first time or two but by no means a complete relearning. I did end up using silicon around the edges to prevent any possible leakage between the cooktop and countertop. Cooktop kit does include a black adhesive strip in lieu of recommending a silicon bond. If I could do it again I would of probably not used silicon as it does not look as slick and the included strip that sits between the cooktop and counter seemed more than adequate. I did a separate review for the pots and pans but long story short it seems to me that basically all pots and pans will buzz on induction to some degree. The ones i use slightly buzz at high temps but its minimal and when at normal cooking temps there is no buzz. If your ready to make the upgrade, have money to swap pans and don't mind a possible electric upgrade I say go for it. I'm very happy with this purchase and have been telling everyone about induction.

For several years I had read about induction cooktops and thought I'd love to have one - if we ever remodeled, knowing that we wouldn't do that!!!! Well, my husband surprised me with a kitchen remodel - pretty much going with anything I wanted. I DO love to cook and always have. I studied and researched induction cooktops, and am thrilled to have one. Even my husband loves cooking with it - it is a HUGE learning curve. I have used both gas and electric in the past. Yes, I did need to get new pans (I'd really never had new pans in our 40 years of marriage, but rather a hodge-podge of things given to us. It worked. Well, we went with the Demire Atlantis line (yes, luxury) and at my husband's suggestion got them while the kitchen was being remodeled and I was cooking on a single hot plate. Let me tell you, those pans are incredible - even on a cheap hot plate!!! And . .yes, they're great on the induction cooktop. I realize much of this paragraph is on the pans, but . .in that you must have magnetic pans, I thought I'd just address that issue here, too.) When we were looking to buy the cooktop, my husband really encouraged me to buy the 5 burner cooktop. I insisted "no" - I'd never needed 5 burners in all my years of cooking, even for larage crowds; what I always ran out of was oven space! (and yes, we did get two full-size wallovens. So . . we got the 4 burner - and now I wish I'd gotten the 5 burner, only because on the induction cooktop you must more accurately match your pan size than on other types of cooking surfaces that I've used. I've always worked hard to match size of pan to the burner as closely as possible. As stated in the first paragraph, for me/us, other than for boiling water (which is incredible!), the cooking learning curve was HUGE. I'd never bothced an omelette, but . . did my first time on the induction cooktop; it was edible but not a "looker" at all!!. But . . keep at it - you'll get it!!!! I did! For me, I needed to use numbers higher than expected. I LOVE that I can put things on the cooktop - such as the food dishes w/all the ingredients for a recipe - and not worry about hot burners, pot holder catching fire, etc. (only heat on the cooktop is from a pan that has been on the stove and transferred heat to the cooktop. Recently I had a big dinner, and immediately after I used the cooktop, I put a woven cloth rug over the top and used the cooktop for buffet serving. It worked great and looked fine, too! I do wish the unit had knobs vs. touch-pad for the controls. It's SOOOO much easier to turn a knob to exactly where you want than to keep touching and pressing a button to get where you want to go with it. Also, both my husband and I wish the "burners" were not sooo hard to see (hence the 4 star rating, not 5). We have to turn the hood light on and undercabinet lighting on, also, so that we can see where the burner is (as you must place your pan on the burner - not partially off, etc. Certainly it could have been made so that each burner was more easily seen/identified. I am guessing they are done as they are so that the unit has a sleeker, less "stove-top" look. I'd rather not have to get at just the right angle to find my burner - it's a stove, so . . I don't mind it looking like one! Overall - it's great and am excited we ventured out and tried something so new!!!!

We purchased this in March of 2009. It came with the following:Turntable, Convection grid, Crisper pan & handle, baking tray and steamer vessel. There are so many features in here that I don't think I've used everything. First, the Convection Microwave Oven: De-Frost - I'm not a big menu planner so defrosting before I cook has to work quickly and efficiently for me. Apart from the usual cooking power options (High 100%, 90%, 80% etc) I can choose from Meats, Poultry, Fish, Bread, Juice & Manual. The microwave calculates the defrosting time based on the weight that I input. The manual has guidelines and pound to kilogram conversions. Re-Heat - The options include Dinner Plate, Sauce, Soup, Pizza, Casserole, Beverage and Manual. The microwave bases the reheating on how many cups of sauce/soup/casserole/beverage is inputed and the number of slices of pizza. For example, I want to heat a cup of coffee. (Ghastly to some, I know, but I've done it) The microwave will ask you how many cups and whether you want it warm or hot. Simple & easy. Manual Cooking - Just input the cooking power and the cooking time and you're all set! Popcorn - Works like in other microwave ovens. Pop it based on the bag size. Steam Cooking - The vessel comes in 3 parts: the cover, the food holder and the water container and they all fit together. I've steamed fresh vegetables, frozen vegetables and a lot of dim sum. They've all been delicious. The options are Potatoes, Fresh Vegetables, Frozen Vegetables, Fish fillets, Shrimp & Manual. Again, the microwave calculates the cooking times on how many cups and how many ounces. The steaming vessel is dishwasher safe. Soften/Melt - The options are Butter, Margarine, Ice Cream, Cream cheese and the softening/melting time is based on how many sticks and ounces you have. We love to bake and we have a fondness for ice cream cakes so this has been so useful. Crisper Pan Frying - This is the one feature that I've only tried a couple of times. I still like to use the old frying pan, I'll admit. I followed the guide in the manual and made an omelet. Timer - I use this mostly when I'm making pasta on the stove top. I can have this running while the oven is cooking something else. The Microwave converts to a Convection oven/Easy Convect. I just put the grid on the turntable. I've done smaller amounts of cookies, some chicken, baked potatoes and french fries this way. The bottom part of this oven is the Electric Convection Oven. In "traditional" oven mode I can choose from Bake, Broil & Bread Proof. In convection mode, there's Bake, Broil & Roast. Just to give me something else to think about there's also an EasyConvect option. There's also the Options key that does the fahreinheit & celsius conversion, turns the sound on/off/high/low, dehydrates,oven temperature calibration, Sabbath mode and turn the turntable on/off. To clean, I turn on the Self Clean Mode, choose the number of hours I want and wipe down when it's cool. The manual advises against using commercial oven cleaners. Again, so many features. The bottom line is I've been very happy with this oven. It replaced an ancient GE that came with our house. A lot of thought went into this purchase since we also had to hire someone to chip away at a brick wall that also housed a fireplace that we wanted to keep. I chose this oven because of the brand, the stainless steel, its size & features and because I wanted the microwave oven off my counter. Notice that I mention the manual quite a bit. It has a lot of information! Highly recommended.

I really cannot say enough good things about this particular freezer. We actually have two of these in our home and will soon be adding another. (More about that later). Right off the top though I want to tell you that when you consider the shipping charges on this model and the asking price here, you can probably do much better if you buy locally. If you have a truck or larger SUV you can easily carry this thing home and avoid delivery charges. Anyway... We went the route of manual defrost as we have had automatic defrosting units in the past and to be quite frank, they, the automatic defrosting units will cause a significant rise in your electric bill. With these small units we have found that complete defrosting is quite avoidable if you simply take a nice and sturdy plastic scraper (like the one you use on your car windshield in the winder) and keep the frost build-up down every few weeks are so then the chore of completely emptying your unit is kept to a minimum. We have found that once ever 18 months or so is quite adequate. These units are extremely quiet and there is no problem with the motor/compressor constantly coming on. We have both of our freezers on our back porch next to an old refrigerator we keep as a back-up and overflow unit. The reason we choose to purchase and install two smaller units, rather than one large chest unit, is that we found with the large chest unit we simply had too much food wastage over the years. Food seems to get lost in these things and I for one absolutely hate digging thought bags and packages and freezer containers to find one small item...all the while risking frost bite. We always have a large garden and neither my wife nor I do any canning. This is a choice we made several years ago. All of our produce from the garden in properly prepared and then frozen. We also buy in bulk and have found we save a tremendous amount of money in doing so. The presence of a large or smaller home freezer makes it possible to capitalize on discounts on perishable foods. This we do often. The only drawback of this is the cost of a deep freezer. You can get one like this for under $300 and the annual energy cost varies, but is usually somewhere around $50 a year. To break even, you're going to need to be saving about $60-70 a year on your food costs. For our family, we can sometimes save that much in a month due to our deep freezer. Between the flash-frozen vegetables bought at a discount, the frozen casseroles prepared ahead of time, the breakfast burritos made at an incredibly cheap rate per burrito, the produce from our garden socked away for later, and countless other little things, the deep freezer saves us money almost every single day. Now another reason we have two of these freezers (and will soon be getting yet another) is that we keep vegetables, of which we use a lot, in one and we keep meat in another. We buy our meat in bulk, either at the local store or quite often we will purchase a half-beet. And of course there are the fish we catch (I am only able to catch really stupid fish, so we do not have that many fish in our freezer at a given time as overall, as a tribe, fish are quite a bit brighter than I am). We have been using these units for well over a year now and have had no problems what so ever. They do have a light on them that tells you they are running which we constantly check. We did have a power outage last year that lasted for over 24 hours (this was a real bummer), but dry ice took care of that problem and we saved all of our food. All in all these are good freezers and if you manage your shopping correctly, they will save you quite a lot of money. They are light enough that my wife and I can move them from location to location (when empty) with no difficulty what so ever. We do not use the locking mechanism on our freezers as there is no way a raccoon can get the lid open and they are the only critter that would be interested in their contents other than our grandsons. Don Blankenship The Ozarks

Long story, but, hoping to give details that might apply to other homeowners and solve several issues. Skip the next paragraph for review of LintEater only. Over the years, I had grown very frustrated with the design of the dryer vent in our home - from the dryer, the vent goes down an internal wall, underneath the foundation, back up an outside wall, then, out. (a total of four 90-degree turns) The regular washer and electric dryer that we had before would create lots of condensation in the vent line, and would require vacuuming out with a shop vac about every 6 months. I would routinely extract about 3 gallons of water each time. In April 2013, I switched to an HE washer and a gas dryer. Also, switched from a flex vent hose (from dryer to wall) to a semi-rigid hose that added yet another turn to the venting, but, was still within the recommended limits of the new gas dryer. The HE washer solved the moisture problem, but, the gas dryer was taking even longer to dry than the electric dryer. A check of the dryer indicated that the gas would only burn for 7 seconds before shutting off. I was told by an expert that I had a ventilation problem. A check of local vendors indicated prices ranging from $120 to $159 for dryer vent cleaning. I searched and found the Gardus LintEater online and decided that the price point was right for me to try this myself. Glad that I did. The Gardus LintEater worked exactly as expected and did the job. It took about 2 hours to completely clean the vent. It was a little tricky to get it to push through the 90-degree turns, but, once it did, it moved forward. It ended up being a 2-person job - one to hold and power the drill, and one to grab the turning rods with bare hands (no burns!) and push the rods through. I had the shop vac hooked up on the indoor side of the vent and pushed the cleaning brush through from the outdoor side. At about the 8 foot mark (4 feet from the indoor side), I encountered a tightly packed mass of lint and the brush had trouble breaking it up. So, I switched to cleaning from the indoor side. The vac hose adapter has a small hole at the top that allows you to vac and clean from the same side simultaneously. That did the trick - when I encountered the mass from the indoor side, the brush was able to break it up along with the help of the vac suction. In a matter of seconds, the LintEater had cleaned out about a 1-cubic foot mass of lint. The 12-feet of rods that come with the kit was perfect for cleaning the entire length. After reconnecting the gas dryer, it was absolutely amazing at the difference in the airflow. The dryer works super fast now and I cannot be more pleased. This is one of the best investments a homeowner can make! Note: I did have to make the adapter in order to attach the rods to my corded drill - just a matter of cutting the head off a bolt. I have a 3/8" chuck and the rods require a 1/2" or larger chuck. If you have to do this, you will know what I mean - just read the instruction manual. It was not a problem to do, but, I did happen to have the right size bolt already. Last note: the rods are fairly durable - several times in the process (going around the 90-degree turns and when hitting the lint mass), the drill would turn the rods faster than what they could physically turn, so, the rods would twist up into what looks like a long pretzel. I fully expected them to break at that point, but, they did not. I was very happy to see how the rods could take quite a bit of twisting without breaking. Now that I will be doing routine cleaning, I don't expect to have this problem. Bottom line - if you even think your dryer vent needs cleaning, buy this system and use it; you will be happy you did. This advice is coming from someone who hardly ever writes a review. Happy cleaning.

I bought this at Target last spring and while it wasn't the most perfect product, I was pretty excited about having it. When people complain about the taste, that's either them not rinsing out the machine initially (which I did) or just using water that isn't the best quality. I washed mine well a few times with hot soapy water and used water from my Brita water pitcher that I keep in the fridge. It suggests wasting the first few batches which I did. The ice tasted fine. The ice is a very soft ice which is great for just eating alone. My kids loved it. They would just want a cup of ice. Pretty funny. But because the ice is very soft, it melts very quickly, especially in room temp drinks. But if you use a lot of it, you can get by with not being too bothered by that. It will make a batch about every 12 minutes which was nice. As a side note, the ice melts while sitting in the unit, it is not cooled in any way. It's just like a cooler sitting in your kitchen. The warmer your house is, the faster it melts. The machine is noisy while making ice (it's wasn't as bad as others state though, but then again I'm used to a noisy house with 3 kids. lol.), which I did not mind, but the machine also makes other noises that are not normal...but only after months of having it. There was enough water, but it sounded like the pump was on it's way out. I would unplug it for a few days then plug it back in and usually it was better. Not always though. My husband would tease, it's on it's way out! I knew it was close. Not even a year old. A few months ago, it just stopped freezing the ice cubes. The machine goes through the motions of making ice, but doesn't actually freeze anything. What a bummer. So, a year old and now just a worthless piece of junk for $109.00 (luckily it was on sale at Target). I originally justified the $ by thinking I would use it at parties and for the ice chests on outings, but no you can't. It just melts too fast and there isn't enough for a party. I still ended up buying bags of ice for those occasions. Maybe if you bag up this ice then store it in the freezer??? It was an alright machine while it lasted. It did light up often that there was too much ice when there really wasn't or the right side where the metal sensor was had a few pieces barely touching it and then the left side of the basket was pretty empty. As others reviewers states though, just knock the ice down so it's evened out and then hold onto the metal sensor for about 20 seconds then it re-triggers it to start making ice again. The machine is a descent size too. It was difficult to maneuver it around to clean it out. I won't miss dealing with that. I would clean it out every week. Something else I just remembered. After about 6 months of running it....all the stickly labels (the warning labels) got moldy (black) on the underside of the lid (cover). I thought how stupid to put something paper in an area with direct moisture contact. Gross. I scraped it all off with a razor blade and cleaned it really good. It would be better to take those off first or they should be covered with contact paper or something. What a dumb idea on Emerson's part. So, if you are willing to spend the $ for ice for one year, then go for it, but if you expect a machine of that cost to last longer, then look for another one. I wish the "good" reviews stated how long they had owned it. Over the year, my machine was probably turned on and making ice about 80% of the time. I have noticed other machines that look identical to this with different names. I can't help but wonder if they are selling the same crappy machine with new names now. Just do your research.

We bought this range two years ago, when we sold our house of twenty years and moved. I am a fairly serious cook, and just over 60. We bought this with the idea that this was it: a top of the line tool, versatile and durable, a lasting enhancement to our kitchen. And, unless we win the lottery, the last chance to get a high-end range. I haven't experienced the maintenance issues some of the other reviewers have, and in my experience, their customer support was very accomodating. The range looks fabulous. It looks in the kitchen rather like I imagine a brand new Mercedes would look in the driveway. I absolutely love the oven. I like the touch screen controls. It has features I won't ever use, and bells and whistles I certainly don't need (ramp up lighting??), but it works to perfection. It is super-insulated, preheats quickly, and holds a steady temperature very well. The temperature probe works fine. The lights (there are two) are positioned on the sides of the oven, so they actually illuminate the food rather than silhouette it in backlight. The ball bearing, full-extension racks are great. And the cobalt blue finish is lovely to look at. The warming oven works, but it's pretty small and I don't use it often enough to judge how well it works. The cooktop, on the other hand, is downright awful. It was designed by a minimally competent engineer who clearly has never even boiled water. The grid that supports the cookware has two major flaws: the prongs are too far apart to support a small saucepan, and the three sections aren't coplanar--they all are different heights, and they don't line up properly. When it was delivered, the sections were a quarter inch out of alignment in height. I couldn't slide a pan from the lower section to the higher one without lifting it. I called customer service, they were quite apologetic, and they overnighted me a new set. This set didn't align either, but between the two sets I was able to put together three sections that align to each other fairly closely. However, they have a built-in bump on the outer edge of the grid that prevents a 12" pan from sitting level. Moreover, because of the alignment issues on the top, it is impossible to level both the oven and the cooktop. Three of the burners ignite quickly, but the super-low to super-high burner doesn't want to ignite. I have to go past the ignition point, then back, at least once to get it to catch. On all of the burners, the flame doesn't adjust evenly as you turn the knob. There are wide sections of the knob that don't produce any visible change in the flame. The 'super burner' goes from high heat to below a simmer in a very small portion of the dial. It's very difficult to get it adjusted to a low cooking heat, and the large diameter of this burner makes it not suitable for simmering with a small pan. And, you must look at the flame to know you've actually adjusted the heat when you turn the knob on any of the burners. It is also impossible to adjust the flame low enough to hold a simmer on two of the burners. All in all, the $600 Frigidaire at our last house had a much better cooktop. The only reason I'm giving this review two stars is that I like the oven so much. The cooktop gets zero stars. This experience has been especially disappointing because I agonized over the choice of a range. I looked at virtually every range on the market that cost less than $3,500, and felt like I had made a great choice. Unfortunately, you can't test drive ranges. For the price, I expected to get first-class performance in every respect. I could have been much happier for $1,000 less. Don't make the same mistake.

The below is a running commentary on this unit, from original 2008 purchase to 2010. This is a great looking unit with a lot of nice features. We may just have gotten a bad one, so take this for what it is worth, but we have been pretty frustrated. The unit keeps showing Code 1 and refuses to work. I called Electrolux Customer Service, who I must say were honest and stated that their engineers had misdesigned the computer board and they were having a lot of problems. Said they had redesigned the board and would get one right to us. About four days later a repairman changed the board out. Only problem, it is still showing Code 1--a leak in the tub. So we have a brand new $1300 dishwasher that a contract repairman must completely take apart to fix a seal in the unit. Not what I would expect for a high-end product. Wish we had gone with the Bosch. Want to amend my review a little, and raise this to four stars. The above unit was defective. Lets face it, no company is perfect and everyone produces a lemon every once and a while. I must say that Electrolux customer service was great to deal with. After I told them that the panel replacement had not fixed the issue, they immediately stated they would replace the entire unit. We have the new unit in and it is a very nice dishwasher. Its quiet, does a good job, and has a lot of room inside. My only complaint would be that if your dishwasher is to the left of your sink, sometimes you will accidentally hit the touch panel on top of the door. Not a big issue though. We are happy with the unit, so I take back my words about preferring the Bosch. Well, I will go down to 1 star. Now, almost two years later, and all of the above, guess what we got with the new unit--Code 1--a leak in the tub, only this time it was also leaking water on the floor. I called customer service, but they told me that it was past its warranty, so I would have to fix it on my dime. After I complained about the trouble we have had with the unit, they agreed to send a parts kit and a repairman, but stated this would be the last time they would cover anything. If they hadn't agreed parts and labor would have been $350 on a unit less than two years old. Got the parts kit quickly, and the repairman changed out the parts--including one of the pumps which his tests determined was also failing--it had become really loud. It is now working, although I have no idea how long it will be before the next problem. At the next problem, I'm not calling Electrolux, I'm just throwing this dishwasher out and buying a Bosch. I would never buy this dishwasher again, nor frankly would I buy any additional Electrolux appliances. My family members have $500 dishwashers which have lasted far longer and frankly clean the dishes better than this appliance. This is not an Electrolux of European quality, its a Frigidaire with Electrolux stamped on the outside. Electrolux is doing itself some serious damage in the US market with appliances like this. We also have their gas range, which I have also rated poorly, because of some easily avoidable poor design features. Avoid this dishwasher!! December 2010 :) The happy face is because sometimes in life you just have to laugh!!! So after the last fix it has lasted 8 months. Tonight Error Code 1. I'm staying true to my last comment, its going in the garbage and I will buy a Bosch tomorrow. This is clearly a case of a manufacturer foisting a defective product on the public. I'm going to review the California Lemon Law and possibly discuss with an attorney. This is a $1300 appliance!!! Quite simply, unbelievable!!!

In the heirarchy of cooktops, induction is king. Although induction is powered by electricity, it should not be confused with traditional electric cooking. Induction provides instantaneous results. The speed of heating a pan is amazing (surpasses gas and electric in speed and control), it does not throw heat (other than the hot pan), and the lack of heat generated beneath the surface means the cooktop is much cooler than either electric or gas, because there are no heating elements in the unit. Also, induction costs far less to operate than gas or electric. This unit has digital controls (with a lit display that only shows when it is on), and I know, for example, that olive oil will burn in the pan above 5, but 4.5 is perfect for sauteing. And it will remain perfect for sauteing throughout the entire cooking process, it will not get hotter or colder. Furthermore, you can store anything on the cooktop (we keep a bottle of olive oil on there, as well as a non-magnetic spoon rest. They stay cool to the touch regardless of how many units are on. Now there are downsides. 1. Cost: cost prohibitive for many, by far the most significant factor. There are no freestanding range/oven combos, which means that you need to spend money on individual range and oven to get a functional kitchen. Furthermore, unless you have a 40A cooktop in place, you will need to upgrade your electric. The total cost for us was around thirty two hundred for both the wall oven and the cooktop, with an additional cost of $150 for the electrician, and about $300 in replacing the pans. 2. Cookware: although most high end pans are made to be induction compatible, the majority of widely available cookware is not. Especially non-stick. I found a couple nice "eco" non-stick pans at a homegoods store, but be advised to take a magnet along with you shopping, and only buy pans to which it sticks. That being said, all-clad is typically induction compatible, and there is a wide movement to making pans that way. 3. Probably not a wise investment at this point if looking for a return on a home renovation for sale. While many people discover the benefits of induction for themselves, it hasn't taken off in the US yet, and most people won't know the difference until using it. I doubt people would recognize the benefits if we went to sell the house. Perhaps a brochure would be in order... Now for those that hate electric cooking, but don't have gas lines, this is an amazing solution--I think it is far better than the other methods of cooking. Also, if you frequently cook but have a smaller kitchen, this will keep it cooler. If you have gas lines, I'd have to say that the benefits of induction (compared to gas) do not outweigh the initial cost. This cost could be recouped by energy savings if you cook A LOT, or by weighing in other considerations, such as small children being burned. The 30" is very useful, and is equivalent to a standard freestanding cooking range. The 36" model would be appropriate if you are accustomed to having a 6 burner cooktop. I don't have any basis for comparison to other induction units, but I cannot find any faults with this unit. UPDATE: After cooking on this for over a year, I have a few additional comments: 1. Some induction compatible pans make noise when heating, not loud, but rather annoying. 2. The glass has scratched slightly in places. Still looks very sleek though. 3. Controls are annoying to clean. Despite the "control lock" button, when you clean the rest the water activates the buttons, making an error message and a beeping noise. 4. There should be a better way to seal off the edges next to the countertop. Has anyone tried silicon? 5. There are now "all in one" cooktop/oven slide in units available. UPDATE: Barkeepers friend works extremely well to clean the cooktop

I use this cooktop on a 30amp circuit with Anolon hard anodized copper bottom cookware. I read a lot of reviews about this cooktop and was worried about the performance of the cooktop relative to a gas cooktop, wondered if my circuit had enough juice to power this cooktop and stressed over buying cookware that would not buzz or rattle. Getting a gas cooktop was unfortunately not an option with the home I just purchased and regular electric cooktops have never impressed me. I did not buy this on Amazon and bought it at a local big box that starts with L, ends in S and has a OWE in the middle. Price was the same as Amazon, at the time, and preferred to buy local in case I had to return due to lack of compatibility with my countertop or the electric needs. I was also able to get a 4 year in-home warranty from the same store for 120 bucks which was a bargain in my opinion. I've been using this cooktop for 3 months now and so far zero issues with my 30amp circuit. Ive even turned all burners on to a high setting and did not trip the breaker. This cooktop is the real deal and I can't believe I'm saying this but I actually prefer it over gas. The heat control, clean up and lack of hot surfaces on pot handles really make it shine. The heat control for me has been the biggest surprise. Heat setting for each burner goes up in half steps. 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, etc. As me and my wife get more experience cooking on it we share settings with each other to see what numbers work best. Everything we are making is remarkably consistent now. Pancakes are always golden, pasta is prefect etc. no more guesswork! It's as simple as finding the best number for each burner according to what your making. Ex: we make pancakes on the large burner using number 3. I read one review where somebody mentioned that they had trouble cleaning the touch screen control area due to water canceling out the control lock? Read another where someone mentioned it easily scratches? Several where they talked about "relearning how to cook everything" on induction coming from gas or regular electric? No to all in my experience. Cleaning and Scratches: Push and hold the control lock for 5 seconds and nothing on the cooktop will work except the timer button. I use Weiman glass cooktop wipes to get off any food and then little dots of Weiman glass cooktop cleaner with a baby burb cloth. Gets it showroom clean every single time with less than 2 mins of effort. You want to clean it like this for the simple fact that hard particles like salt and a flat bottom pot surface will definitely lead to scratches. I clean it after every use and always check my flat bottom cookware prior to use and I've had no scratch issues. Relearning how to cook? Really? I think the learning curve is similar to getting a new TV or cell phone. Sure awkward the first time or two but by no means a complete relearning. I did end up using silicon around the edges to prevent any possible leakage between the cooktop and countertop. Cooktop kit does include a black adhesive strip in lieu of recommending a silicon bond. If I could do it again I would of probably not used silicon as it does not look as slick and the included strip that sits between the cooktop and counter seemed more than adequate. I did a separate review for the pots and pans but long story short it seems to me that basically all pots and pans will buzz on induction to some degree. The ones i use slightly buzz at high temps but its minimal and when at normal cooking temps there is no buzz. If your ready to make the upgrade, have money to swap pans and don't mind a possible electric upgrade I say go for it. I'm very happy with this purchase and have been telling everyone about induction.

For several years I had read about induction cooktops and thought I'd love to have one - if we ever remodeled, knowing that we wouldn't do that!!!! Well, my husband surprised me with a kitchen remodel - pretty much going with anything I wanted. I DO love to cook and always have. I studied and researched induction cooktops, and am thrilled to have one. Even my husband loves cooking with it - it is a HUGE learning curve. I have used both gas and electric in the past. Yes, I did need to get new pans (I'd really never had new pans in our 40 years of marriage, but rather a hodge-podge of things given to us. It worked. Well, we went with the Demire Atlantis line (yes, luxury) and at my husband's suggestion got them while the kitchen was being remodeled and I was cooking on a single hot plate. Let me tell you, those pans are incredible - even on a cheap hot plate!!! And . .yes, they're great on the induction cooktop. I realize much of this paragraph is on the pans, but . .in that you must have magnetic pans, I thought I'd just address that issue here, too.) When we were looking to buy the cooktop, my husband really encouraged me to buy the 5 burner cooktop. I insisted "no" - I'd never needed 5 burners in all my years of cooking, even for larage crowds; what I always ran out of was oven space! (and yes, we did get two full-size wallovens. So . . we got the 4 burner - and now I wish I'd gotten the 5 burner, only because on the induction cooktop you must more accurately match your pan size than on other types of cooking surfaces that I've used. I've always worked hard to match size of pan to the burner as closely as possible. As stated in the first paragraph, for me/us, other than for boiling water (which is incredible!), the cooking learning curve was HUGE. I'd never bothced an omelette, but . . did my first time on the induction cooktop; it was edible but not a "looker" at all!!. But . . keep at it - you'll get it!!!! I did! For me, I needed to use numbers higher than expected. I LOVE that I can put things on the cooktop - such as the food dishes w/all the ingredients for a recipe - and not worry about hot burners, pot holder catching fire, etc. (only heat on the cooktop is from a pan that has been on the stove and transferred heat to the cooktop. Recently I had a big dinner, and immediately after I used the cooktop, I put a woven cloth rug over the top and used the cooktop for buffet serving. It worked great and looked fine, too! I do wish the unit had knobs vs. touch-pad for the controls. It's SOOOO much easier to turn a knob to exactly where you want than to keep touching and pressing a button to get where you want to go with it. Also, both my husband and I wish the "burners" were not sooo hard to see (hence the 4 star rating, not 5). We have to turn the hood light on and undercabinet lighting on, also, so that we can see where the burner is (as you must place your pan on the burner - not partially off, etc. Certainly it could have been made so that each burner was more easily seen/identified. I am guessing they are done as they are so that the unit has a sleeker, less "stove-top" look. I'd rather not have to get at just the right angle to find my burner - it's a stove, so . . I don't mind it looking like one! Overall - it's great and am excited we ventured out and tried something so new!!!!

We purchased this in March of 2009. It came with the following:Turntable, Convection grid, Crisper pan & handle, baking tray and steamer vessel. There are so many features in here that I don't think I've used everything. First, the Convection Microwave Oven: De-Frost - I'm not a big menu planner so defrosting before I cook has to work quickly and efficiently for me. Apart from the usual cooking power options (High 100%, 90%, 80% etc) I can choose from Meats, Poultry, Fish, Bread, Juice & Manual. The microwave calculates the defrosting time based on the weight that I input. The manual has guidelines and pound to kilogram conversions. Re-Heat - The options include Dinner Plate, Sauce, Soup, Pizza, Casserole, Beverage and Manual. The microwave bases the reheating on how many cups of sauce/soup/casserole/beverage is inputed and the number of slices of pizza. For example, I want to heat a cup of coffee. (Ghastly to some, I know, but I've done it) The microwave will ask you how many cups and whether you want it warm or hot. Simple & easy. Manual Cooking - Just input the cooking power and the cooking time and you're all set! Popcorn - Works like in other microwave ovens. Pop it based on the bag size. Steam Cooking - The vessel comes in 3 parts: the cover, the food holder and the water container and they all fit together. I've steamed fresh vegetables, frozen vegetables and a lot of dim sum. They've all been delicious. The options are Potatoes, Fresh Vegetables, Frozen Vegetables, Fish fillets, Shrimp & Manual. Again, the microwave calculates the cooking times on how many cups and how many ounces. The steaming vessel is dishwasher safe. Soften/Melt - The options are Butter, Margarine, Ice Cream, Cream cheese and the softening/melting time is based on how many sticks and ounces you have. We love to bake and we have a fondness for ice cream cakes so this has been so useful. Crisper Pan Frying - This is the one feature that I've only tried a couple of times. I still like to use the old frying pan, I'll admit. I followed the guide in the manual and made an omelet. Timer - I use this mostly when I'm making pasta on the stove top. I can have this running while the oven is cooking something else. The Microwave converts to a Convection oven/Easy Convect. I just put the grid on the turntable. I've done smaller amounts of cookies, some chicken, baked potatoes and french fries this way. The bottom part of this oven is the Electric Convection Oven. In "traditional" oven mode I can choose from Bake, Broil & Bread Proof. In convection mode, there's Bake, Broil & Roast. Just to give me something else to think about there's also an EasyConvect option. There's also the Options key that does the fahreinheit & celsius conversion, turns the sound on/off/high/low, dehydrates,oven temperature calibration, Sabbath mode and turn the turntable on/off. To clean, I turn on the Self Clean Mode, choose the number of hours I want and wipe down when it's cool. The manual advises against using commercial oven cleaners. Again, so many features. The bottom line is I've been very happy with this oven. It replaced an ancient GE that came with our house. A lot of thought went into this purchase since we also had to hire someone to chip away at a brick wall that also housed a fireplace that we wanted to keep. I chose this oven because of the brand, the stainless steel, its size & features and because I wanted the microwave oven off my counter. Notice that I mention the manual quite a bit. It has a lot of information! Highly recommended.

I really cannot say enough good things about this particular freezer. We actually have two of these in our home and will soon be adding another. (More about that later). Right off the top though I want to tell you that when you consider the shipping charges on this model and the asking price here, you can probably do much better if you buy locally. If you have a truck or larger SUV you can easily carry this thing home and avoid delivery charges. Anyway... We went the route of manual defrost as we have had automatic defrosting units in the past and to be quite frank, they, the automatic defrosting units will cause a significant rise in your electric bill. With these small units we have found that complete defrosting is quite avoidable if you simply take a nice and sturdy plastic scraper (like the one you use on your car windshield in the winder) and keep the frost build-up down every few weeks are so then the chore of completely emptying your unit is kept to a minimum. We have found that once ever 18 months or so is quite adequate. These units are extremely quiet and there is no problem with the motor/compressor constantly coming on. We have both of our freezers on our back porch next to an old refrigerator we keep as a back-up and overflow unit. The reason we choose to purchase and install two smaller units, rather than one large chest unit, is that we found with the large chest unit we simply had too much food wastage over the years. Food seems to get lost in these things and I for one absolutely hate digging thought bags and packages and freezer containers to find one small item...all the while risking frost bite. We always have a large garden and neither my wife nor I do any canning. This is a choice we made several years ago. All of our produce from the garden in properly prepared and then frozen. We also buy in bulk and have found we save a tremendous amount of money in doing so. The presence of a large or smaller home freezer makes it possible to capitalize on discounts on perishable foods. This we do often. The only drawback of this is the cost of a deep freezer. You can get one like this for under $300 and the annual energy cost varies, but is usually somewhere around $50 a year. To break even, you're going to need to be saving about $60-70 a year on your food costs. For our family, we can sometimes save that much in a month due to our deep freezer. Between the flash-frozen vegetables bought at a discount, the frozen casseroles prepared ahead of time, the breakfast burritos made at an incredibly cheap rate per burrito, the produce from our garden socked away for later, and countless other little things, the deep freezer saves us money almost every single day. Now another reason we have two of these freezers (and will soon be getting yet another) is that we keep vegetables, of which we use a lot, in one and we keep meat in another. We buy our meat in bulk, either at the local store or quite often we will purchase a half-beet. And of course there are the fish we catch (I am only able to catch really stupid fish, so we do not have that many fish in our freezer at a given time as overall, as a tribe, fish are quite a bit brighter than I am). We have been using these units for well over a year now and have had no problems what so ever. They do have a light on them that tells you they are running which we constantly check. We did have a power outage last year that lasted for over 24 hours (this was a real bummer), but dry ice took care of that problem and we saved all of our food. All in all these are good freezers and if you manage your shopping correctly, they will save you quite a lot of money. They are light enough that my wife and I can move them from location to location (when empty) with no difficulty what so ever. We do not use the locking mechanism on our freezers as there is no way a raccoon can get the lid open and they are the only critter that would be interested in their contents other than our grandsons. Don Blankenship The Ozarks

Long story, but, hoping to give details that might apply to other homeowners and solve several issues. Skip the next paragraph for review of LintEater only. Over the years, I had grown very frustrated with the design of the dryer vent in our home - from the dryer, the vent goes down an internal wall, underneath the foundation, back up an outside wall, then, out. (a total of four 90-degree turns) The regular washer and electric dryer that we had before would create lots of condensation in the vent line, and would require vacuuming out with a shop vac about every 6 months. I would routinely extract about 3 gallons of water each time. In April 2013, I switched to an HE washer and a gas dryer. Also, switched from a flex vent hose (from dryer to wall) to a semi-rigid hose that added yet another turn to the venting, but, was still within the recommended limits of the new gas dryer. The HE washer solved the moisture problem, but, the gas dryer was taking even longer to dry than the electric dryer. A check of the dryer indicated that the gas would only burn for 7 seconds before shutting off. I was told by an expert that I had a ventilation problem. A check of local vendors indicated prices ranging from $120 to $159 for dryer vent cleaning. I searched and found the Gardus LintEater online and decided that the price point was right for me to try this myself. Glad that I did. The Gardus LintEater worked exactly as expected and did the job. It took about 2 hours to completely clean the vent. It was a little tricky to get it to push through the 90-degree turns, but, once it did, it moved forward. It ended up being a 2-person job - one to hold and power the drill, and one to grab the turning rods with bare hands (no burns!) and push the rods through. I had the shop vac hooked up on the indoor side of the vent and pushed the cleaning brush through from the outdoor side. At about the 8 foot mark (4 feet from the indoor side), I encountered a tightly packed mass of lint and the brush had trouble breaking it up. So, I switched to cleaning from the indoor side. The vac hose adapter has a small hole at the top that allows you to vac and clean from the same side simultaneously. That did the trick - when I encountered the mass from the indoor side, the brush was able to break it up along with the help of the vac suction. In a matter of seconds, the LintEater had cleaned out about a 1-cubic foot mass of lint. The 12-feet of rods that come with the kit was perfect for cleaning the entire length. After reconnecting the gas dryer, it was absolutely amazing at the difference in the airflow. The dryer works super fast now and I cannot be more pleased. This is one of the best investments a homeowner can make! Note: I did have to make the adapter in order to attach the rods to my corded drill - just a matter of cutting the head off a bolt. I have a 3/8" chuck and the rods require a 1/2" or larger chuck. If you have to do this, you will know what I mean - just read the instruction manual. It was not a problem to do, but, I did happen to have the right size bolt already. Last note: the rods are fairly durable - several times in the process (going around the 90-degree turns and when hitting the lint mass), the drill would turn the rods faster than what they could physically turn, so, the rods would twist up into what looks like a long pretzel. I fully expected them to break at that point, but, they did not. I was very happy to see how the rods could take quite a bit of twisting without breaking. Now that I will be doing routine cleaning, I don't expect to have this problem. Bottom line - if you even think your dryer vent needs cleaning, buy this system and use it; you will be happy you did. This advice is coming from someone who hardly ever writes a review. Happy cleaning.

I bought this at Target last spring and while it wasn't the most perfect product, I was pretty excited about having it. When people complain about the taste, that's either them not rinsing out the machine initially (which I did) or just using water that isn't the best quality. I washed mine well a few times with hot soapy water and used water from my Brita water pitcher that I keep in the fridge. It suggests wasting the first few batches which I did. The ice tasted fine. The ice is a very soft ice which is great for just eating alone. My kids loved it. They would just want a cup of ice. Pretty funny. But because the ice is very soft, it melts very quickly, especially in room temp drinks. But if you use a lot of it, you can get by with not being too bothered by that. It will make a batch about every 12 minutes which was nice. As a side note, the ice melts while sitting in the unit, it is not cooled in any way. It's just like a cooler sitting in your kitchen. The warmer your house is, the faster it melts. The machine is noisy while making ice (it's wasn't as bad as others state though, but then again I'm used to a noisy house with 3 kids. lol.), which I did not mind, but the machine also makes other noises that are not normal...but only after months of having it. There was enough water, but it sounded like the pump was on it's way out. I would unplug it for a few days then plug it back in and usually it was better. Not always though. My husband would tease, it's on it's way out! I knew it was close. Not even a year old. A few months ago, it just stopped freezing the ice cubes. The machine goes through the motions of making ice, but doesn't actually freeze anything. What a bummer. So, a year old and now just a worthless piece of junk for $109.00 (luckily it was on sale at Target). I originally justified the $ by thinking I would use it at parties and for the ice chests on outings, but no you can't. It just melts too fast and there isn't enough for a party. I still ended up buying bags of ice for those occasions. Maybe if you bag up this ice then store it in the freezer??? It was an alright machine while it lasted. It did light up often that there was too much ice when there really wasn't or the right side where the metal sensor was had a few pieces barely touching it and then the left side of the basket was pretty empty. As others reviewers states though, just knock the ice down so it's evened out and then hold onto the metal sensor for about 20 seconds then it re-triggers it to start making ice again. The machine is a descent size too. It was difficult to maneuver it around to clean it out. I won't miss dealing with that. I would clean it out every week. Something else I just remembered. After about 6 months of running it....all the stickly labels (the warning labels) got moldy (black) on the underside of the lid (cover). I thought how stupid to put something paper in an area with direct moisture contact. Gross. I scraped it all off with a razor blade and cleaned it really good. It would be better to take those off first or they should be covered with contact paper or something. What a dumb idea on Emerson's part. So, if you are willing to spend the $ for ice for one year, then go for it, but if you expect a machine of that cost to last longer, then look for another one. I wish the "good" reviews stated how long they had owned it. Over the year, my machine was probably turned on and making ice about 80% of the time. I have noticed other machines that look identical to this with different names. I can't help but wonder if they are selling the same crappy machine with new names now. Just do your research.

We bought this range two years ago, when we sold our house of twenty years and moved. I am a fairly serious cook, and just over 60. We bought this with the idea that this was it: a top of the line tool, versatile and durable, a lasting enhancement to our kitchen. And, unless we win the lottery, the last chance to get a high-end range. I haven't experienced the maintenance issues some of the other reviewers have, and in my experience, their customer support was very accomodating. The range looks fabulous. It looks in the kitchen rather like I imagine a brand new Mercedes would look in the driveway. I absolutely love the oven. I like the touch screen controls. It has features I won't ever use, and bells and whistles I certainly don't need (ramp up lighting??), but it works to perfection. It is super-insulated, preheats quickly, and holds a steady temperature very well. The temperature probe works fine. The lights (there are two) are positioned on the sides of the oven, so they actually illuminate the food rather than silhouette it in backlight. The ball bearing, full-extension racks are great. And the cobalt blue finish is lovely to look at. The warming oven works, but it's pretty small and I don't use it often enough to judge how well it works. The cooktop, on the other hand, is downright awful. It was designed by a minimally competent engineer who clearly has never even boiled water. The grid that supports the cookware has two major flaws: the prongs are too far apart to support a small saucepan, and the three sections aren't coplanar--they all are different heights, and they don't line up properly. When it was delivered, the sections were a quarter inch out of alignment in height. I couldn't slide a pan from the lower section to the higher one without lifting it. I called customer service, they were quite apologetic, and they overnighted me a new set. This set didn't align either, but between the two sets I was able to put together three sections that align to each other fairly closely. However, they have a built-in bump on the outer edge of the grid that prevents a 12" pan from sitting level. Moreover, because of the alignment issues on the top, it is impossible to level both the oven and the cooktop. Three of the burners ignite quickly, but the super-low to super-high burner doesn't want to ignite. I have to go past the ignition point, then back, at least once to get it to catch. On all of the burners, the flame doesn't adjust evenly as you turn the knob. There are wide sections of the knob that don't produce any visible change in the flame. The 'super burner' goes from high heat to below a simmer in a very small portion of the dial. It's very difficult to get it adjusted to a low cooking heat, and the large diameter of this burner makes it not suitable for simmering with a small pan. And, you must look at the flame to know you've actually adjusted the heat when you turn the knob on any of the burners. It is also impossible to adjust the flame low enough to hold a simmer on two of the burners. All in all, the $600 Frigidaire at our last house had a much better cooktop. The only reason I'm giving this review two stars is that I like the oven so much. The cooktop gets zero stars. This experience has been especially disappointing because I agonized over the choice of a range. I looked at virtually every range on the market that cost less than $3,500, and felt like I had made a great choice. Unfortunately, you can't test drive ranges. For the price, I expected to get first-class performance in every respect. I could have been much happier for $1,000 less. Don't make the same mistake.

The below is a running commentary on this unit, from original 2008 purchase to 2010. This is a great looking unit with a lot of nice features. We may just have gotten a bad one, so take this for what it is worth, but we have been pretty frustrated. The unit keeps showing Code 1 and refuses to work. I called Electrolux Customer Service, who I must say were honest and stated that their engineers had misdesigned the computer board and they were having a lot of problems. Said they had redesigned the board and would get one right to us. About four days later a repairman changed the board out. Only problem, it is still showing Code 1--a leak in the tub. So we have a brand new $1300 dishwasher that a contract repairman must completely take apart to fix a seal in the unit. Not what I would expect for a high-end product. Wish we had gone with the Bosch. Want to amend my review a little, and raise this to four stars. The above unit was defective. Lets face it, no company is perfect and everyone produces a lemon every once and a while. I must say that Electrolux customer service was great to deal with. After I told them that the panel replacement had not fixed the issue, they immediately stated they would replace the entire unit. We have the new unit in and it is a very nice dishwasher. Its quiet, does a good job, and has a lot of room inside. My only complaint would be that if your dishwasher is to the left of your sink, sometimes you will accidentally hit the touch panel on top of the door. Not a big issue though. We are happy with the unit, so I take back my words about preferring the Bosch. Well, I will go down to 1 star. Now, almost two years later, and all of the above, guess what we got with the new unit--Code 1--a leak in the tub, only this time it was also leaking water on the floor. I called customer service, but they told me that it was past its warranty, so I would have to fix it on my dime. After I complained about the trouble we have had with the unit, they agreed to send a parts kit and a repairman, but stated this would be the last time they would cover anything. If they hadn't agreed parts and labor would have been $350 on a unit less than two years old. Got the parts kit quickly, and the repairman changed out the parts--including one of the pumps which his tests determined was also failing--it had become really loud. It is now working, although I have no idea how long it will be before the next problem. At the next problem, I'm not calling Electrolux, I'm just throwing this dishwasher out and buying a Bosch. I would never buy this dishwasher again, nor frankly would I buy any additional Electrolux appliances. My family members have $500 dishwashers which have lasted far longer and frankly clean the dishes better than this appliance. This is not an Electrolux of European quality, its a Frigidaire with Electrolux stamped on the outside. Electrolux is doing itself some serious damage in the US market with appliances like this. We also have their gas range, which I have also rated poorly, because of some easily avoidable poor design features. Avoid this dishwasher!! December 2010 :) The happy face is because sometimes in life you just have to laugh!!! So after the last fix it has lasted 8 months. Tonight Error Code 1. I'm staying true to my last comment, its going in the garbage and I will buy a Bosch tomorrow. This is clearly a case of a manufacturer foisting a defective product on the public. I'm going to review the California Lemon Law and possibly discuss with an attorney. This is a $1300 appliance!!! Quite simply, unbelievable!!!

This piece of junk was purchased at Home Depot in 2009 for around $575. The first major problem is it barfs up an "HE" code meaning the heating cycle is not working. The underlying problem is LG put the relay for the heating coil on the main circuit board. The relay can't take the 500-1000 watts or whatever the load is and simply melts. They actually had a recall at one point because it burned down a few houses. They blamed it on "poor soldering". Not really, it's poor design that will never work in a million years. You simply can't run that much power through a small relay and expect it not to fail. The thing never really dried the dishes anyway so it's hard to tell when it's not working. The "fix" is to replace the main circuit board which is around $125, if I do it myself. Having someone fix it would exceed the cost of getting a new dishwasher. The second problem is the soap dispenser just quit working. The lid will not stay shut. We just pour in the soap, slam the lid, swear, and let it run. The third problem is it is now making a horrific noise, grinding, whining, like metallic angry chipmunks. I stuff a old towel at the base to reduce the noise. There is not delay start so this thing can make it's noise at night. However, since it can't be trusted because sometimes it barfs up an HE code right away and you have to restart it, so instead of taking 2 hours and 4 minutes to do the dishes, you are up to 2 hours and 40 minutes. The fourth problem is the metal clips provided to hold the dishwasher in place are way too thin, looks like 14 gauge steel at best. There is simply too much space between where the clips attach and where you screw them into the counter top. Raising the dishwasher by adjusting the legs you can only go so far up. At any rate after a year or so of loading and unloading dishes the clips popped out while both dish racks were pulled out causing the dishwasher to fall out of the cabinet spilling all the dishes and rack on to the floor. There's no lip or anything where you can just drive a big screw into the counter top to secure it, just those dang clips unless I want to re-engineer something. Just looking at it, who thought that design made any sense? It doesn't, it was probably the cheapest solution they could find. Fifth problem the clips holding the rack wheels are brittle and crack. Luckily I robbed clips from the other side that are used for the worthless "adjustable" shelf feature. Oh yeah, the first night we got it, it peed all over the kitchen floor. Turns out a seal was not install properly at the factory, so rather than calling service, I simply fixed it myself. This thing is really nothing more than an assembly of the cheapest Chinese parts they could find. Even the silverware holder has worn through. Manufactures can make stuff that's "not quite right", but most learn from their mistakes like common warranty issues, complaints, and service people feedback. Good manufacturers take this feedback and improve the product. LG obviously has not done this since they are selling the exact POS that we bought in 2009. Consumer Reports feedback rants on this dishwasher and for good reason. Now I'm stuck, not worth it to fix it, even if I do the work myself, and a new dishwasher is not in the budget. Is it just me or it unreasonable to expect an appliance to last 10 - 15 years? I suppose that's what you get when the parts are made in China and assembled in Korea, probably a contract manufacturer at that who just slaps the LG label on it. I can't prove that but how can it come to be something is so poor that a company like LG is not aware of the problems? I have fantasies of taking a pick ax to this POS.

This piece of junk was purchased at Home Depot in 2009 for around $575. The first major problem is it barfs up an "HE" code meaning the heating cycle is not working. The underlying problem is LG put the relay for the heating coil on the main circuit board. The relay can't take the 500-1000 watts or whatever the load is and simply melts. They actually had a recall at one point because it burned down a few houses. They blamed it on "poor soldering". Not really, it's poor design that will never work in a million years. You simply can't run that much power through a small relay and expect it not to fail. The thing never really dried the dishes anyway so it's hard to tell when it's not working. The "fix" is to replace the main circuit board which is around $125, if I do it myself. Having someone fix it would exceed the cost of getting a new dishwasher. The second problem is the soap dispenser just quit working. The lid will not stay shut. We just pour in the soap, slam the lid, swear, and let it run. The third problem is it is now making a horrific noise, grinding, whining, like metallic angry chipmunks. I stuff a old towel at the base to reduce the noise. There is not delay start so this thing can make it's noise at night. However, since it can't be trusted because sometimes it barfs up an HE code right away and you have to restart it, so instead of taking 2 hours and 4 minutes to do the dishes, you are up to 2 hours and 40 minutes. The fourth problem is the metal clips provided to hold the dishwasher in place are way too thin, looks like 14 gauge steel at best. There is simply too much space between where the clips attach and where you screw them into the counter top. Raising the dishwasher by adjusting the legs you can only go so far up. At any rate after a year or so of loading and unloading dishes the clips popped out while both dish racks were pulled out causing the dishwasher to fall out of the cabinet spilling all the dishes and rack on to the floor. There's no lip or anything where you can just drive a big screw into the counter top to secure it, just those dang clips unless I want to re-engineer something. Just looking at it, who thought that design made any sense? It doesn't, it was probably the cheapest solution they could find. Fifth problem the clips holding the rack wheels are brittle and crack. Luckily I robbed clips from the other side that are used for the worthless "adjustable" shelf feature. Oh yeah, the first night we got it, it peed all over the kitchen floor. Turns out a seal was not install properly at the factory, so rather than calling service, I simply fixed it myself. This thing is really nothing more than an assembly of the cheapest Chinese parts they could find. Even the silverware holder has worn through. Manufactures can make stuff that's "not quite right", but most learn from their mistakes like common warranty issues, complaints, and service people feedback. Good manufacturers take this feedback and improve the product. LG obviously has not done this since they are selling the exact POS that we bought in 2009. Consumer Reports feedback rants on this dishwasher and for good reason. Now I'm stuck, not worth it to fix it, even if I do the work myself, and a new dishwasher is not in the budget. Is it just me or it unreasonable to expect an appliance to last 10 - 15 years? I suppose that's what you get when the parts are made in China and assembled in Korea, probably a contract manufacturer at that who just slaps the LG label on it. I can't prove that but how can it come to be something is so poor that a company like LG is not aware of the problems? I have fantasies of taking a pick ax to this POS.

So glad to have a space to record a review, in that I really wish I had been privy to them before investing in this misnomer range: professional it is not. I really wanted a non-stainless, non-black, non-white range and was, therefore, limited in my options, esp. in the smaller size. In the last few years, I've cooked and baked on everything from a high-end Gaggenau to a Bosch to an old advocado green GE range from the 70s. Never have I pulled out a simple bar cookie and found a 2-3" round burn (I'm talking charred!) spot on the bottom of the item, not coincidentally directly above the opening in the range floor (above the gas) on the right side. Unbelievable hot spot and completly frustrating experience for an avid, and reasonably skilled, baker. Received no customer service after various attempts. My pan was blamed. Finally, I baked the bar cookies again, grabbed my two toddlers, strapped the infant into his carrier and trotted into the showroom of the kitchen supply company from which the range was purchased---slapping the jelly roll pan on the counter. Took many pictures of the ruined baked good with my salesperson for forwarding to Bertazzoni. This finally got some action on the part of the supply company. A service technician was sent out who tinkered with the thermostat, and encouraged me to use convection, noting that most people buying the oven don't bake. The problem was not fixed and it was clear that it would not (or could not) be. Everyone kept saying "Gee, we've never heard of this problem before" and yet no one would admit that I had a lemon. Why? Because (I'm assuming) all Bertazzoni ranges perform in this way. I was (and am) stuck. Eventually a pizza stone was purchased for me to help distribute the heat. Instead, I had a "metal guy" make a removable disk that slips on top of this "burn hole" to help spare my food such intense, focused heat. There is still plenty of air flow. Nevertheless, I find myself baking and cooking in convection mode as much as possible. Never having been a big convection gal, I am thankful I was forced to experiment with this. It has baked certain things (like pies) beautifully. However, you cannot successfully bake many things on convection (yeast breads and batter items) because of the need for the heat to come from the bottom-up (and not circulate). As other reviewers have noted: low temperatures are almost impossible to find and hold. Forget about meringues. Even a 300 degree cheesecake requires babying. You simply cannot turn your oven on, enter the bake time, and walk away. Another major problem I have had is in starting a recipe at one temperature and, after a period of time, reducing the temperature for the duration of the baking/roasting time. I remember being none too happy to start my roast at a hot temperature, and then reduce it 50 degrees for the duration only to check on it near to dinnertime and find it "ice cold." The oven simply turned off when I turned the temperature dial down. It could not discern that I had moved the dial and stopped before reaching off. Again, I've baked on many non-digital ranges and never had such a simple (and common) action misunderstood by the range. So, for instance pate a choux type recipe would not work. When I called Bertazzoni about this problem I was told again, "Gee, we've never heard of this problem before. I'll talk to my manager and get back to you." I was never called or otherwise contacted. Up side: I sprang for the vintage styling in cream and it is beautiful. The cooktop is great (except that you can't really get a low simmer setting, even with the supplied simmer plate). Other range vendors: produce enameled/colored ranges. Not everyone wants stainless steel.

We purchased this dishwasher to replace an aging Frigidaire that had just stopped getting our dishes clean. We decided that we wanted to spend a little extra and get a dishwasher that offered more options, and would match our stainless LG refrigerator purchased earlier this year. First of all, to get the obvious out of the way, this dishwasher is beautiful. Unlike most stainless dishwashers, the handle is more flat than round, which gives the unit a more modern and sleek feel. Also, the control are fully integrated and the layout and presentation of the buttons is intuitive and user-friendly. I have no prior experience with integrated washers, but the only con is that you can't easily see how much time is remaining on the wash cycle because it is hidden under the lip of the counter. The only way to check is to open the door and take a peek. As for the interior, the tub is all stainless steel which looks fantastic and promises to hopefully stand up to staining and wear and tear better than a traditional plastic or vinyl interior. On the top and bottom racks, there are two sets of tines that are adjustable so if you are loading oddly-shaped dishes, you are more than likely going to be able to fit them in. Additionally, on the bottom rack, there is a row of tines that is completely removable in case you have large casserole dishes or baking pans that you want to load vertically. The silverware basket is removable and has slots to ensure that utensils stay standing vertically and not laying against each other during a wash cycle. On the top rack there is also a modular "shelf" attached to the edge that can be used to hold over-sized utensils. The shelf folds out of the way if you don't need to use it. Now for the important part: wash performance. Included with the unit are samples of Cascade All-in-One Action Packs and a sample bottle of Cascade Rinse-Aid. To tell you now: TAKE THIS AS A SIGN!!! I can't re-iterate how important it is to use rinse aid and decent detergent. This washer performed flawlessly using these products on the first two washes (there are only two detergent packs included). On our third load, we fell back to our old Palmolive Eco+ detergent (low phosphate) and the results were staggering. While the dishwasher was definitely cleaning better than our old one, the baked on gunk was not entirely removed from the dishes and there was a noticeable haze to the dishes that wasn't there with the detergent packets. Through some research, we found that the low phosphate detergents are notoriously low performers. This doesn't mean that you have to throw away money on the Action Packs though. We are now using plain 'ole powdered Cascade and rinse-aid and our dishes are coming out spotless and shiny. I've read elsewhere that if you don't use rinse-aid with this dishwasher, your dishes will not be dry at the end of the cycle. I haven't encountered this issue, but I also haven't stopped using the rinse-aid. This dishwasher does not have a heating element in the bottom of the tub, but instead uses a hybrid drying system that uses a fan to remove the moisture from the interior air. This system has worked great for us, and the only time I see leftover water is on the top rack in the concave bottoms of certain glasses. It's not much, and I usually just keep a dish towel nearby if I encounter any and give it a quick wipe on the top. As for the additional cycles and settings, the steam function does work very well. As mentioned earlier when using the Palmolive Eco+, the only area of the casserole dish that really got cleaned off was the area that was right next to the steam vent. The wash cycle on this washer is a little long (Usually 2 - 2 1/2 hours) but I'm not usually in any kind of hurry to get my dishes clean, so this isn't really an issue. Finally, if you're looking for a quiet dishwasher, this is what you're looking for. You can hardly tell when it's running, and the sound it does make almost sounds like a very quiet babbling brook. Hope this helps anybody that is interested in this fantastic dishwasher.

I bought this range hood because I loved the pyramid look for our stainless steel kitchen remodel. Very bold. The hood had good reviews on Consumer Reports, so I felt comfortable with its quality even though I had never heard of Zephyr before finding it while looking online for range hoods. At a little over $400, it was much more expensive than most range hoods, but I'm not sorry we spent the money. Amazon had the best price of any place I found. I installed the hood myself and I'm not a professional but just a home DIYer, and it was not too difficult to install, but you really need two pairs of hands to get it in, and read the instructions carefully. The instructions are pretty good, but I changed the installations technique to be able to adjust the height of the hood. Without an extra pair of hands, it's nearly impossible to install. The hood looks fantastic in our kitchen. The hardest part of the installation was getting the the protective plastic wrap off all parts of the hood. It is on all parts of the metal with an adhesive backing and it took a razor blade to get it started but once started, it pulled off fairly easily. You must use great care not to scratch the hood with the razor blade but that was the only way I could figure to get it off. As I said, it really takes two people to mount the hood. I tried to do it by my self and gave up and called a friend for a second pair of hands. The hood mounts under your cabinet with simple screws, but I used four inch bolts which I ran through the bottom of my cabinets with the nuts in the cabinet and the bolt heads in the hood. You must hold the hood up to the bottom of your cabinets and mark the holds which takes some care to get it right and the back mounting holes are very difficult to reach but not impossible. Using bolts allowed me to adjust the height of the hood in relation to the bottom of my cabinets by simply tightening up the bolts until the hood was where I wanted it. You cannot adjust the height of the hood with the screws provided with the hood and even reaching them to tighten them up after installing would be very difficult. The only problem with using the bolts was that the nuts are in the bottom of my cabinet which limits the use of the cabinets, but they can't be seen, and the cabinets above my range hood were very small anyway, so this wasn't a big concern for me. The other advantage of this technique was allowing for some room to get your hand in between the hood and the bottom of your cabinets to get the bolt heads aligned with the holes in the top of the hood while also aligning the vent stack onto the exhaust fan. This was a little frustrating but having someone there to hold the hood up while all bolts and exhaust were lined up, was the key to getting it all in at the same time. Once I had the hood at the height I wanted, I inserted shems between the top of the hood and the bottom of the cabinet and tightened up the nuts so that the hood was rock solid above my counter top. When I turned on the fan, my heart sank as the fan was making a loud noise as the fan blades were hitting the fan case. I called Zephyr and they were great. They said it probably got out of alignment in shipping, and they explained how to adjust the fan and stayed on the phone with me while I did it and it wasn't difficult. I was able to adjust the fan in a few minutes and it worked perfectly. The lights on the fan are bright and beautiful over my cook top and the fan is very powerful and even though I have it mounted pretty high over my cook top it pulls and smoke up well. Overall, I'm very happy with this product and with the customer service at Zephyr. Mounting the hood took a little inqenuity but I think most people with just a little experience can do it.

I've had the slightly different, larger tub model Whirlpool Cabrio Wtw6300ww0 for about 2 years now. It's pretty much identical to the 6200 except for a slightly bigger volume load. I didn't see a listing on Amazon for the 6300 so I'm posting them here. Long story short - all the negative reviews here are pretty much spot on. It's a given these days that large home appliances are not what they used to be - more cheap plastic parts, built for a few years life cycle to insure repeat business. My first late 70's vintage washer lasted about 15 years with one repair. My next 3 lasted barely half a decade apiece. But this one easily wins the award for biggest POS. So about the Whirlpool Cabrio Wtw6300ww0..... Bought mine from Howards in 2009. About 3 months after purchase, the main board died, fortunately it was still under warranty and didn't cost me anything but I had to use a laundry mat for almost a week waiting for the part to arrive. I was told by the repairman the entire Cabrio series from the last 5+ years has this common problem within the first year. Since, then, I haven't had any mechanical issues but that's almost beside the point considering how flawed the basic design and construction of this series of washer is. The biggest, most instantly obvious issue is it doesn't clean clothes very well is at all and despite the large tub, you really can't fill it with clothes to anywhere near the typical capacity for a typical washer's tub this size. The way I've found through trial and error to get the best results from this washer is to use an empty extra Gallon+ size washing detergent container, add the required amount of liquid soap and water mixed in the container and pour in the tub (not the dispenser) directly on the clothes about 5 minutes after cycle starts. ALWAYS use "HE" branded soap to avoid clogging and excessive suds error timeout. Add maybe another gallon or so of water to make sure the clothes are completely and evenly saturated. I wouldn't recommend filling the tub more then 1/3rd full of clothes - so much for "big loads of laundry." During a cycle, you may need to check on the load, especially if it's heavy towels or blankets that may shift to one side causing "UL" error timeouts. You basically have to babysit this thing from start to finish. Yeah, it's about as close to washing by hand as you can get in the 21st Century, isn't it.... Another major issue is using bleach on whites. Same steps as adding soap as mentioned above but add the bleach in with the soap/water via the container a few minutes into the cycle *after* the tub has initially hosed down the clothes with water. Even with that precaution, a small amount of Bleach water residue will linger in the tub after a load so you should always run the short "Rinse/Drain & Spin" cycle with either an empty tub or with a few pieces of junk clothing you don't care about after you run a bleach (whites) load. Even with that, I've had a number of colored loads still get bleach stained. As others have complained, the washer is *very* noisy during the final spin cycles and with sheets, large items such as towels and blankets, they will form into a twisted ball due to the very high speed the drum spins during the final cycle as well as the fact there's no center "agitator post." Clothes that have ties or worse of all, bras often get twisted and mangled due to catching under the domed agitator. Also, loose change can actually get under the drum inside the motor assembly, so make sure pockets are empty. It's really the worst, most labor intensive home appliance I have ever owned and I look forward to replacing it with a non-Whirlpool washer as soon as possible.

This is an initial review after 24 hours of operation. After too many trips over the last couple of years to the grocery story to buy ice for our family, I purchased the ES IB120SS ice maker after extensive research. I also bought the 3-year extended warranty policy. The unit was delivered several days ago, and I set it up yesterday in our basement, connecting the water line to our existing reverse osmosis water filter system. Within 40 minutes, the first batch of ice was produced. It continued producing ice steadily. (After 3 hours, I threw out all the ice, and thoroughly washed out the ice bin, as instructed in the installation steps.) However, this morning, I discovered that the ice maker itself had stopped producing ice sometime during the night. (The condenser seemed to be working fine, and the interior of the freezer unit was cold.) The metal arm that detects a full bin was partially up, and the white "arms" that rotate and push out the ice cubes had stopped in an odd position. After some inspection, I discovered that a bit of ice had formed at one spot on the white plastic top rim of the ice mold, effectively jamming the white arm at that location. I carefully broke the ice away, and the white arms immediately started rotating, and a moment later the ice mold filled with water. I'm not sure how water could have dripped or splashed onto that location. My guess, however, is that as the white arms rotate, they carry with them a drop or two of water. In that particular location, the drop accumulates on the rim, and quickly freezes. More drops of water accumulate and freeze, until the bit of ice there is large enough to finally stop the white arms from rotating. I"ll continue to report on what happens. Update 2017-09-02: The ice maker module continued to accumulate ice on its top plastic rim at one end, jamming the white arms that release the ice. This occurred about every 4-5 hours. I called EdgeStar customer support, and they were very helpful. The support rep first said that they would send out a new ice module and find a locale technician to install it (all covered under warranty). A few minutes later she called back and said that the module was not in stock and that they would send me a complete replacement unit (yes, the whole appliance). It arrived a few days ago, which I immediately installed. So far there have been no problems with ice build-up on the ice maker module. I also noticed that the compressor seems to run a bit quieter than the original appliance. (Or maybe I'm just used to the sound now. We have it in our basement, and it cannot be heard in the next room or upstairs.) Only downside is that I need to pack up the original unit and ship it back. But fortunately I kept the original box and packaging, and EdgeStar is paying for the return shipping. I'm upgrading my rating from 3 to 4 stars, because of the good customer service and prompt shipping of the new unit, and because this unit seems to be working. Update 2018-02-03: Since I received the replacement unit from EdgeStar, this unit has continued to operate flawlessly, cranking out a bin of ice (about 6 lbs) every 12 hours That being said, defrosting the unit every 4-6 weeks is critical. (It is not a self-defrosting unit; but I knew that when I bought it.) Otherwise, ice will build up on the interior from frost and water splashes, and jam the mechanism. Defrosting the unit, however, is easy. I simply turn the unit off, open the door, remove the ice bin, and place a large cloth towel in the interior, making sure that the towel is pushed against all sides and corners. (This prevents the ice water from running out of the interior compartment and onto the floor.) Leave the door open for about six hours, and it's defrosted. Toss the wet towel in the laundry basket, put the ice bin back in, and turn the unit back on. Twelve hours later, the bin is again full of ice.

Stains are fading! I've been using it for approximately 1 month now and I've noticed the stains in my dish cloths and cloth napkins are fading away! My clothes seemed to be looking better but I thought it was my imagination, until I noticed & watched those specific stains. I guess it's the smaller loads or something? Whatever! It works better than the standard washer I was using... And it's Eco-friendly! Win-win! If you were wondering about ease of use... Be sure to measure the water, per the instructions, and away you go. I do switch arms to keep the workout balanced... Generally, 2-3 loads each day I do laundry; alternating arms by day, not load. Once you get it going it's 100% aerobic...but EASY! The water gets flowing & it is almost self-propelled; if you feel like you are struggling you have too much water or clothing... Or you didn't get it going fast enough, crank faster. Once you get the speed right, the water seems to do most of the work. Just remember not to smash the clothes in too tight and you should be fine. [When you drain the water, if the clothes fill more than half of the washer... you got too many clothes in there!] As for drying, I use the Nina Spin Dryer - also from The Laundry Alternative. They are a perfect match. By the time I finish another load in the Wonder Washer, letting it drain for a while between "cycles", the prior load is almost done hang drying. I let the rinse drain until the first load dries, then I spin dry and hang. It makes the process almost relaxing. A friend stopped by while I was washing & was amazed that things hang dry as fast as his big electric dryer can dry things. He was also amazed at how much fit inside the washer...looks can deceive. ADDENDUM: Now that I have used the washer for a year, let me just say that my clothes like the gentle treatment! Stains don't last, fabrics have smoothed out, and the things I have purchased since buying it still look like new... it's like a front-load washer only MORE gentle! I see that they have updated the lid, which I think is a great idea. The first time my daughter used mine she didn't get it closed all the way cuz my old style lid requires many turns to tighten/seal it... she spilled water everywhere. But just once! I have oiled it once but it is squeaking here & there so I will probably have to oil it again soon... making oiling necessary about twice a year. I haven't had to replace any parts but they are all available from The Laundry Alternative. It was super easy to put together [when it arrived] and replacing parts that break instead of buying an entire washer is another bonus. I have to admit, I do 3 cycles most of the time. I do the detergent cycle, a white vinegar cycle, and end with a softener cycle. I crank each cycle for the 2 minutes they recommend for washing. I count 120 cranks; as the cranks take about 1 second each. That's 6 minutes of cranking per load. [Super dirty stuff gets extra rinse water thrown in WHILE DRAINING & comes out clean.] I also alternate forward & backward cranking, not just left & right arms, & my arms look GREAT! Just thought I would throw that in. I should add that I am enjoying the exercise factor. It has gotten so easy to crank that I love doing laundry! I also find that the rest of my body benefits from the isometric exercise; holding the rest of my body still while cranking has toned me from head to toe...And my clothes look great on my toned self; more bonuses!!! One year later, still cranking & loving it!!! ^_^

14 Jun, 2014 - My wife and I camp at the two week long Pennsic War each year. It's an SCA event with ~10k people in a single campsite, with limited access to laundry facilities. Bought this in order to maintain our practice of using cloth diapers for our 1 year old son at war this year. Tried it out once in the bathtub already and we were quite impressed with it's performance and ease of use. Will post an updated review after the event with "real world" insight. WARNING to the squeamish - diapers can be a dirty business. 12 Aug, 2014 - UPDATE! After Pennsic this year I can give excellent reports on this washer! We made it through the entire length of our stay still using cloth diapers for our son. We brought plenty of cotton diaper liners, had to wash in the WonderWash twice for diapers alone. (We washed some of our period garb as well, but we brought enough to last our trip, so this review will focus on our diapers) We also used wool diaper covers that my wife made out of sweaters from Goodwill. Brought along two 5 gallon buckets for water and for use as a "diaper pail" to soak the dirties in. Poopy diapers were scraped clean before soaking in the diaper pail, pee diapers were simply soaked. A typical load was: ~20 cotton liners into the Wonderwash, a quarter capful of Ecover brand laundry detergent, and about 3 gallons of water. Cranked for about 2 minutes. I didn't count turns or time (we were chatting while working.) Attached the drain, loosened the lid and let it drain while I refilled my bucket. Come back, remove drain, fill with about 3 more gallons of water. Close lid and crank for another 2 minutes. Drain after rinsing. We did 3 rinses for each load of diapers. This was perhaps overkill, but considering they're diapers and next to super sensitive skin which seems to break out in a rash in the blink of an eye, we wanted to get them super clean. Wringed to remove as much water as possible and then hung on a line behind our tent to dry. Overall, the diapers came out VERY clean and well washed. There were a few stains remaining from the diaper rash cream we use, but even the home washer doesn't get that out. Line drying our diapers was another story however, the weather simply did not cooperate, and just as we were nearing complete dryness of the diapers, the skies opened up and poured rain down upon us. Oh well! We had enough liners to make it through until we could dry sufficiently; though we did get close to running out one day. This washer comes with my highest recommendation for Pennsic. I would compare it's wash cycle to a "gentle" cycle in a normal washer, so there is no fear about washing garb with delicate lace, trim, tassels or things like that. It does take a bit of technique to get used to how fast to turn the crank. You want to turn it fast enough to get some "sloshing" action going. If you turn it too slowly all you're doing is flipping the clothes (possibly a super gentle wash.) If you turn too quickly, the clothes all stay at one end and never slosh down (centrifugal force.) I think I will peel off the stickers and paint the Wonderwash in browns and black with a faux wood finish, so that it will look less modern and anachronistic in our camp at Pennsic. I already painted our plastic buckets to look like wood. Added bonus #1: Our son loved splashing & playing in the clean water bucket while I cranked! Added bonus #2: The empty washer can store all of the critical laundry items, making for easy packing and organization. We packed a bottle of detergent, clothespins and roll of clothesline all inside with room to spare.

This thing does get clothes clean. There is a problem in the mechanism of the washer. CON: I have had some fun trying to figure out how to fill this thing up. if I fill it up on my bathroom counter, my sink is too low, so I have to use a jug and transfer the water to the drum. that takes forever. If I fill it up in my bathtub, I have to bend over and it is hard on my back. Not to mention, the spout on my bath tub does not hang directly over the hole of the drum. I have to pick it up to fill up the drum. When I try to pick it up, the suction cups get stuck to the bottom of the tub, and are very annoying to peel off one by one. CON: Another issue I've noticed is when I place the pipe on the bottom of the drum to drain the water, water starts to come out at the connection site. Even if I put the pipe on really fast, water still comes out. It's like trying to put something in your mouth while it is filled with water....It's hard to prevent water from coming out of your mouth. I have to place a towel underneath the machine to soak up all of the spilled water. PRO/CON: Also, spinning the machine can become really annoying. I suppose when you consider the work that is put into hand washing, this is much easier, compared to most forms of handwashing. This is not much of a complaint. It's only to say, you are still going to have to use elbow grease to work the machine. PRO: This machine can hold a lot of clothes. I washed 4 big heavy duty dry off towels, and about 8 face towels in one load. PRO: This machine does a really good job in making your clothes smell good compared to a washing machine. If your laundry detergent is scented, your clothes will have that scent. If you use fabric softener on the rinse cycle at the end, even better. PRO: It will get your whites super white. Better than a washing machine. Washed my daughters' uniform shirts and socks, and khaki pants(which I always use bleach to wash, but they don't get bleach stains) and they were sooooooooooo clean. WOOOW!!! HOW I USE IT: I do a cold rinse first. I fill the machine until I see water above the clothes, I then tighten the top and start spin in one direction until I get tired. I try to do 3 minutes or more. Also sometimes I change directions(I think out of boredom). And sometimes I go fast in one direction, then in the other. I will stop doing this, because in my mind, it will damage the handle in the long run. That may not happen, but I'm affraid it will. (That's just how I think). Next, I empty the machine using the pipe if it's on the counter, or I tip it over if in the bath tub. I fill it up with the hottest water my faucet provides and laundry detergent and do the same thing. I fill my water separate so I can mix the detergent (and bleach if needed), then add the clothes if in the bathtub, or add the water last if on the counter. Then, I empty the machine and do a cold rinse, just like the first rinse cycle. I then empty the water, and transfer the clothes to my Laundry Alternative spin dryer (which I notice is not sold on this website). Then I hang them to dry. This all takes about 15-30 min on for one load (excluding the drying). Hope I got everything. Please ask any questions you'd like. I took away one star because I wish it were easier to use. Just opening and closing, filling, emptying the machine....ugh, just so annoying. But it does get the job done, with less water and time than your washing machine. So I will give it the 4 stars that it deserves.

<div id="video-block-R2FPUQ2LQDNXRQ" class="a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block"></div><input type="hidden" name="" value="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/B1pi2-xEgKS.mp4" class="video-url"><input type="hidden" name="" value="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61%2BdNYRtbuS.png" class="video-slate-img-url">I recently traveled to Uganda (East African country) in October 2013. I had purchased this machine years ago for my own use and loved it. So I took it to a friend of mine who is a missionary in Africa for her to use. We both work as volunteers for a health care organization called Kissito.org. Kissito works with villagers in Africa to bring health and maternity care to villagers. So we demonstrated the washer to them after learning that the girls in African families must do all the family laundry each day before going to school. If they don't finish the laundry, they must miss school. Hoping to show the families something that could help them do their laundry well, and do it quickly, we took the machine into the villages. This video clip is one of a local villager who transports patients to the local health clinic demonstrating the machine to a group, including teasing a boy who is trying to turn the handle. This is the machine in action! What I love about this machine is it is pretty sturdy, since it withstood a year of my daily use, plus it survived 500 African villagers cranking on it all in ONE day! If you thought red Georgia clay was hard to get out of clothes, you haven't been to Uganda, east Africa. These villages have no electricity, no paved roads, lots of kids (average family has 7 children) and lots of dirty clothes. Families there LIVE in dirt huts, farm, play, work and have the dirtiest clothes imaginable, yet the WonderWash got load after load of clay and dirt soiled clothing CLEAN! The villagers were amazed, as was I. I mean after all, my gym stains and smelly, lightly dirty clothes I expected to get clean, but the grime and dirt that rinsed out of the WonderWash when put to a REAL test was stunning. It was SO effective our organization is trying to find a way to get MORE machines to Africa. Why? Because the girls in each family are tasked with washing the family's clothes every morning before leaving for school. If they don't finish the laundry, they must MISS school to do so. WonderWash could CHANGE the world simply by providing the ability to wash clothes fast enough that these girls can do the laundry and get to school on time. WHY WONDER WASH ROCKS It's lightweight, yet sturdy. I mean, after all it stood up to the rigors of a hike and trip in the back of an SUV on really rocky, difficult roads to get to an African village! It traveled TO Africa in a plastic tub packed with medical supplies, and survived the airline's handling without a crack or scratch! It is easy to assemble. It's durable. More than 500 villagers each had a chance to crank on the handle over the period of ONE DAY as we moved into three separate villages and demonstrated the machine with clothes the villagers brought to us. Kids, men and women of all ages and strengths gave it their best and it kept on working! It cleans! At one village we received a pair of pants a toddler had soiled himself in, a bloody towel from a health clinic, a pair of men's pants used by a man herding cattle and soiled with manure, and several very delicate, beautiful and colorful women's dresses, plus a large scarf. We washed them ALL in one load and they ALL came out CLEAN! Plus, they smelled GREAT! I can't say enough GOOD about this machine. I used it in the USA for a year until I got a car and could go to the laundromat where there was also a dryer. The only thing NOT to like about this washing machine is you do have to wring the clothes out and hang them up to dry...not a big deal. It works and for the price there's nothing better! I love it!

let me start off by saying i live in a largeer than average household. 7-8 people there at all times so the amount of laundry to be done by the end of the week can just about fill up the back of my dodge pick-up. this translates into 25-30 bucks at the laundry mat every week to run the machines and buy cleaning chemicals and dryer sheets. i've had my eye on this machine for a while now. once we finally saved up enough money to buy a used washer and dryer off craigslist i bit the bullet and ordered this as well as the mini spin dryer for only $130 shipped straight to my door and saved a few bucks in the process. this washer has been a dream come true i wish i had these 20 years ago real talk. despite being so many people in the house i manage to keep up with ALL the laundry simply doing 2 or three loads throughout the day. the washer does a reeeally good job of getting the clothes clean. here's my preferred method. i fill up with hot tap water to the middle mark. add a little liquid tide detergent. like maybe a tablespoon and the same amount in baking soda. give it a quick stir with the spoon kept in the baking soda box and insert clothing until all clothes are wet and come up to the water line. i turn the handle slowly about ten times to build up pressure then walk away. sometimes for 30 minutes. sometimes for 12 hours. when i finally return i turn the crank 20 more times, drain then rinse with about 25 turns of the handle then transfer to the spin dryer and start another load in the wash to begin the soaking cycle. also, in the rinse cycle i use cold water and one tablespoon of bounce fragranced fabric softener. clothes come out super clean, soft, and best of all smellin great. the only reason i got away with buying this set instead of a real washer and dryer is because i do all the laundry anyway so it really didn't matter what anybody else thought, i don't regret this purchase one bit and if it breaks i want another just like it immediately ordered pronto!!! i gotta have it. they make electric washers which are cool too but with my style of washing which includes 70% soaking inside of a pressurized capsule, this works out best to my advantage. Jeans, towels, bedsheets...no problemo. comforters will need a front loader but i'll cross that bridge when i get there. I'm not one of those environmental geek types but man i must admit...it feels good to be conserving power. another plus is i plan on purchasing a truck camper eventually which has a very small compressed living space in it. this makes it possible to boondock for days at a time with only one spare outfit on board. to those skeptical about being able to keep up doin laundry this way...don't be. if i can do it so can you. me and the wife work 50 hour plus weeks and deal with kids outside of work.once u see how incredible this machine works and realize u can do the laundry from the day before everyday and always have an almost empty basket you'll somehow incorporate this washing method into your everyday life. i spend total maybe 25 minutes a day washing rinsing or hanging clothes but my basket stays empty which to me makes it all worth it. normally id spend 2 hours at the laundry mat anyway not to mention sorting thru the clothes, hauling them up there hopin it doesnt rain and being away from home. its just an inconvenience all the way around.most people i tell this about is more less worried about what their gf will think and what others will think. My suggestion..f**k what people think and start saving some serious cash. i giggled to myself using this for the first time but after that wasn't nothing funny about it. this is one serious little machine and it does what its supposed to.

We bought the Wonderwash because we live in an NYC apartment with an expensive laundry room and we just had a baby who makes lots of dirty clothes. We've only used it a few times so far, and it seems to work pretty well. I used it while 9 months pregnant and within a week of giving birth and didn't find it too straining, although it definitely helps to have it on the counter instead of in the bathtub or on the floor to keep from straining your back too much. There are a few cons or areas for improvement that I've noticed, though. -It would help to have some sort of markings on the inside of the machine to show the lines for a quarter, half, full load, etc., because that affects how much water you use (water fill lines would also be helpful). I know that is kind of a silly thing to say, since you'd assume I can eyeball whether the thing is 3/4 full or not, but I would love to know if my eyeballing is close to what the manufacturers are thinking, especially if that's going to effect how clean my clothes get. I don't weigh my laundry every time I do it, so they could give a little more assistance here. -I wish the frame were a little sturdier. It really feels like I'm pushing it pretty hard when I'm spinning a full load for two minutes, because the legs are kind of shaky. I haven't heard of anybody saying it just broke or something, but I think they could stand to add some metal to the frame or something. That would add what, like $2 to manufacturing costs? I don't know. But I would pay for it. -I wish there were a more efficient method for rinsing. It takes a while for water to drain out the bottom (when I rinse, I just tip it over afterward to get most of the water out), and I usually have to do it a couple of times to get all the suds out. Not the worst thing in the world, but I wish it were quicker/more effective. Overall, though, it's so easy to use, saves us lots of money, and works pretty well. I'm planning to use it for cloth diapers once the baby is out of his tiny newborn disposables, so that will DEFINITELY impact my review. If I forget to come back for an update, just remind me, because I was desperate to find suggestions about whether this machine would work with cloth diapers & I only found one or two mentions of it online, so I'd like to help anyone else with the same question. **EDIT FOR CLOTH DIAPER INFO** We've been using this for about 6 weeks now with our baby and our cloth diapers and so far, it's fantastic. No issues with odor, build up, or staining. Same complaints still apply, but it's already more than paid for itself in money saved buying disposable dipes or doing laundry in our building's machines ($1.50/load). A few tips, though: -We've only ever used Charlie's Soap, which is low-suds detergent and studies have shown it to leave little to no residue -We keep our routine flexible based on the particular load we have in, generally meaning we leave room to add more rinses and sometimes mix it up with really hot rinses vs. cold rinses (not always the same thing) -We use BumGenius Freetimes, which have suedecloth and microfiber, and they get really clean. I can imagine natural fibers would only be easier to get clean. -Since it takes so many cycles, we often just flip the machine over to drain it instead of using the drain spout. It saves a lot of time. Our routine is this (approximately): -Warm rinse full of water for 60 rotations -Super hot wash with .5 Tbsp Charlie's Soap and whatever amount of water is recommended for load size -Same thing -3 rinses (one cold & full, two hot with the amount of water used to wash the dipes; the order changes) -Extra rinses as needed for non-soapy or clear water

I bought this for my family, as we live in a very small apartment with no available laundry. The laundry mat (for me, my husband, and my little girl) was costing anywhere from $70- $100 a month, and that still leaves the massive amounts of dirty towels and sheets and comforters that I never seemed to get around to... The product is really intended for singles, college kids, etc, but as a housewife with normal amounts of laundry (not to mention a baby on the way!) I am very impressed. In 30 minutes, I can wash and rinse about 4-5 loads. Of course, this was after trial and error, and learning to have everything at hand so I didn't have to keep getting up! But generally in that half hour, I may wash 4 shirts of my husband's, 3 of mine, 3 or 4 of my daughters, a pair of pajamas for each of us, several pairs of my husband's BB shorts, 2 or 3 of my daughter's school uniforms, and maybe even a pair of jeans. I don't find that it works my arm out as bad as some reviews mention, and the product itself is holding up very well... I do recommend putting the washer inside your tub, as you will get water everywhere when you fill it and empty it. I also find that the tube for draining does not work as well as simply dumping the water out yourself! After trial and error, I found this is the process to use for me: 1) Set washer inside tub. I put latex gloves on at this point, because I have sensitive skin. 2) You pour in an EXTREMELY small amount of detergent. A tablespoon or less! And I use fabric softener, which I add about the same amount at this time. For whites, this is the time to add your bleach. (But be careful between loads! You don't want any bleach residue left behind!) 3) Dump a bucket of water in, temperature depending on the fabric of course. I generally fill it to the half way point. (NOTE: if you dump the water in AFTER the soap, it is easier to rinse later!) 4) Add your clothes, one piece at a time, making sure not to scrunch them up. (For me, this may be 2-3 adult shirts, 3-4 kid shirts, and a pair of pants or shorts.) 5) Screw the top on tightly. 6) Start spinning! I count to 60, 2 or 3 times depending on what I'm washing. 7) Take the top off, and remove the clothes. I set them aside, giving them a quick squeeze to help get the soap out. 8) Refill the washer with clean water, no soap this time. 9) Put the clothes back in, close the top, and spin again for 2-3 minutes. 10) You should be done. Occasionally, I get a pair of sweats or jeans that holds in soap, and I give it another quick rinse under the tub faucet. My issue comes in here, where I, of course, don't have a dryer. It takes me maybe 5 or 6 minutes to wash and rinse the clothes, but it takes me another half hour to ring all the water out, and THAT is where it starts to hurt. Right now, I have been ringing them out as best I can, then hanging the clothes over the heating vents or outside on sunny days to dry, but it takes a long time. Soon I plan to buy the spin dryer, and I'm sure that will help alot. I also want to note that the product has to be assembled, and mine came with virtually no instructions. However, it is pretty common sense, and I got it together in about 10 minutes. The only thing I could not figure out was the metal 'keys' that came with it. Those are for either side, to place in the little holes and keep the unit from falling apart!

I purchased this beverage center to store my ever-growing beer collection in, and it is perfect for that purpose! I've addressed a few different items below to hopefully help prospective buyers (many of these have been mentioned in other reviews as well) - TEMPERATURE - The beverage center comes with an adjustable temperature knob. I would recommend following the instructions of initially running the unit at max cool temp for 3-4 hours and then turning it back to the 10 o'clock position on the dial. If you leave it there, it should keep the temperature in the mid to upper 40's while not requiring the fan/compressor to run constantly. Ambient temperature may affect this, but I have mine stored in a pretty warm room. This temperature falls within the desired range for most styles of beer. If all of your beer is fizzy and yellow and you prefer to drink it ice cold, then you need to take a step back and rethink your life choices. By the way - this unit does NOT come with any sort of temperature gauge. You should purchase a refrigerator/freezer gauge to accurately monitor it. I went with this model -&nbsp;<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/Taylor-Precision-Products-Digital-Refrigerator-Freezer-Thermometer/dp/B00875TVYQ/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">Taylor Precision Products Digital Refrigerator/Freezer Thermometer</a> NOISE - I have this beverage center sitting next to my couch in my loft / MAN CAVE. I can watch TV quietly at night and the sound from the compressor is NOT excessively loud or annoying. Also keep in mind, as I mentioned above - if you don't run the unit at max cool temperature then that will reduce the amount of time that the fan/compressor are running. INTERIOR LIGHT - Many people have complained about the warm white or YELLOW "old" looking interior light. I agree that it looks bad. Some have replaced it with strings of cool white LED lights. I recommend just replacing the bulb with a cool white LED bulb - one with an E12 size base will fit. I went with this model and it looks great -&nbsp;<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/Rayhoo-2pcs-E12-Base-LED-Bulb-104-SMD-LEDs-White-Light-5-Watt-AC-110V-Lamps-Equivalent-to-40W-T3-Halogen-Track-Bulb-Replacement-LED-Bulbs-6000-6500K-300-320LM/dp/B015O6UT6E/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">Rayhoo 2pcs E12 Base LED Bulb 104-SMD LEDs White Light 5 Watt AC 110V Lamps Equivalent to 40W T3 Halogen Track Bulb Replacement LED Bulbs,6000-6500K, 300-320LM</a> CARPET - The door will most likely drag if you put the unit directly on carpet. You should use a piece of tile, wood, or small table to get it up off the ground. Something that is at least 15.5" by 15.5" will cover all of the legs. I used an extra piece of kitchen tile that I had and it works perfectly. SHELVES - You will need to adjust the shelves to fit your needs. In my case, I removed 2 of them and kept 2 in there. I use the bottom (not a shelf) to store bombers and extra-tall bottles, the middle shelf to store regular bottles, and the top shelf to store cans and short bottles. I haven not had a problem with bottles tipping or not sitting properly on the wire shelves, but if you do, you can purchase some mats like these, cut them to fit, and place on top of the shelves where needed -&nbsp;<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/Flexible-Chopping-Mats-4-Pack/dp/B00METEK0Q/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">Flexible Chopping Mats 4 Pack</a>

I live in an apartment and got tired of the washing machines here, being so rough on my clothes and delicates, not to mention the expense and running back and forth to the laundry room. I thought buying this Haier washer might be a solution, because most of my clothing, I prefer to hang dry anyway, rather than put them in the scorching hot dryers in my facility. I carefully unpacked it found that the bottom of the box is separate so you can lift the box off of the washer without tipping it over and pulling it out. Assembly was easy, however there was a problem with the base plate it came with no screws to attach it to the bottom of the washer. Even had there been the 6 screws that they state are needed, I couldn't have used them as there were no holes on the bottom of the washer to screw them into. So, my washer has no base plate attached. It doesnt impair the operation of it probably its purpose is to keep dust out of the workings of the machine. This means I will need to periodically check under it and keep it vacuumed. It wouldnt work on the faucet that I have in my bathroom, so I took it into the kitchen to try it there. That was easy enough, but just be sure to follow the instructions about either leaving in or removing the little black rubber washer in the hook-up valve. Well, no matter how much I tried, it leaked and sprayed water all over my cabinets and counters. But no problem! I just draped a kitchen towel over it to catch the spray and I was in business. I stuck the drain hose down into the garbage disposal drain. It stays put when the water drains out, so no need to attach it to the water hose for stability. So, after hooking it up to my kitchen faucet, I ran an empty cycle with detergent to clean the drum, as suggested. All went well. Time for clothes! I set the water level to high and ran a normal wash cycle. Logically, you need to not pack the drum tightly with clothes. I placed my items loosely in washer and started it up. The whole cycle, start to finish, ran 35 minutes. The spin does an amazingly good job and leaves the clothes ready to hang dry anywhere with no concern of dripping. The wash cycle is about 15 minutes but the rinse is short about 2 minutes. The rest of the time is for spinning, filling, and draining. I would prefer the rinse be a little longer, but with my using liquid detergent, I haven't noticed any soap residue left on the clothes, so maybe it is okay. Im very impressed with how clean it got my white things. My white, cotton shirt was sparkling white and it had had some make-up stains on it around the collar. Fantastic! The clothes get pretty twisted, so I have found that I like to untwist them after the wash and rinse cycle before they spin. Finally, a couple more things it has a pretty quiet operation quieter than my dishwasher. I also, saved the Styrofoam insert that came with it in the drum, to keep it stable for when I move it back and forth from a closet to the kitchen. It is on rollers, so moving it isn't a problem. After Ive used it a few months, I will report back and let you know how it is holding up. As of this writing now, I have washed about 10 loads of laundry. I've found that it cannot be left unattended, so that the water can be turned on and then off when not filling. The water pressure may be too great to keep the water on when it isn't filling. (When the water was left on when not filling, the water valve shot off the faucet and stripped one of the threads on the screw part right off. I should get a new valve, but it works okay temporarily.) Also, it got off balance during the spin cycle once, and I was there to catch it immediately. I imagine it would be very hard on the machine if that happened and it wasn't stopped.

I got this for a Nostalgia Electric single tap kegerator. It replaced a 2.5" tower after a little bit of work to the top of the kegerator with a drill and some rivet nuts. The quality of the hardware components is all pretty good, and I'll be sure to test it out real well during the Super Bowl. I do have a few complaints with the kit, two of which were fairly easy to fix. The Y fitting on the regulator and the two shut off valves in it were fairly loose. An adjustable wrench fixed it up. The one valve was so loose that I was actually able to tighten it some by hand. The other issue is with the insulation in the tower, or lack there-of. It came with a piece of thin foam that looks more like it was packing foam wrap as it was an 1/8" thick at best. I removed it and replaced it with a piece of pipe insulation with an OD of ~2 5/8" that fit perfectly. The last complaint is that the beer lines are only 4-5' long, and the airlines are basically the same length. I didn't try to lengthen them yet, but will likely get some barbed couplings, clamps, and some more tubing later, but I will see how much the beer foams first. 2/12/2014 UPDATE: Used the system for the Super Bowl and had a few issues. The one side was not getting CO2, not sure if it was a regulator problem or something else. Found it a few days later when the line side pressure was 2 psi. Checked the connections and looked for problems, turned the pressure up and problem solved. A week later, my CO2 bottle is empty after maybe a full sixtel (likely less) of beer from the two kegs. Got my 2.5lb bottle filled and checked for leaks only to find everything at the "Y" fitting leaking. Both valves in going into the "Y" and the "Y" going into the regulator. I guess when I tightened them initially, it wasn't tight enough. The one valve I couldn't get to stop leaking, so I removed it and then all the teflon tape, then had to put more on, probably close to 10-15 wraps before it actually stopped making bubbles with soapy water. Checked other areas and didn't find anymore leaks, but time will tell if I actually got them all. Hopefully they're all fixed now as I'd like to not loose all my CO2 before the beer is gone. I'd rather give it 2.5 stars if possible after the latest issue, but I can't give/take a half star. 2/27/2014 UPDATE: Another update, and the rating on this kit has dropped to 1 star. The regulator that came with the unit is bad. On top of all the leaks from it, it just doesn't work. I could not get it to maintain a constant serving pressure. It would either get set at 8-10 psi, then a few hours later be at 30+ psi, or you couldn't get the pressure to go up at all. Sadly, it usually increased steadily, and there is now a mess in my kegerator as it forced beer out of the lines at the faucet when it was over pressurized, and the beer leaked down into and onto everything inside the kegerator. I contacted the seller, and the response was "we frequently have regulator issues, here are instructions to fix it yourself". Sadly, it took several tries for them to actually send the instructions. I don't see how you sell a product when you frequently have problems with the most critical piece in the product. Needless to say, after I finally got the instructions and took apart the regulator, there was nothing inside it causing a problem, so I put it back together, and would you imagine that it is still bad? Now I need to try and get a refund. Luckily, the regulator that came with the kegerator is fine, so I just swapped the Y fitting over onto it. If I could buy again, I'd go spend another $20-30 somewhere else and get a different kit from another vendor, as this one is not living up to any standard other than poor.

I had an old top of the line KitchenAid dishwasher that was 18 years old. It worked great execept the top dish rack rusted out and I could not find the part to replace it. My old KitchenAid was made in the good old USA and when I called KitchenAid to find the replacement part they told me 1) the part is no longer being manufactured and 2) hold on to this unit as long as I could because I will not be able to find the build quality like my old unit. So I held on for another 2 years till the rack fell apart. When the rack finally gave way - I had to replace my old KitchenAid. After weeks of research I decided to purchase the KitchenAid KUDS30ix based on my fist KitchenAid experience on build quality. I was sold on the KUDS30ix front panel display, the fact it had a built-in food disposal, and a number of other features like my old KitchenAid. Since I upgraded my old oven and went stainless steel - I also went for that option as well- stainless steel. Out of the box the unit looked very nice, however I could tell by the weight and components of my new KitchenAid it was not built as well as my old unit. After installation and the first run of the unit the water would not drain - the only way to get the dishwasher to drain was to hit cancel/drain. That did the trick for a week and now the unit will not even drain. Also, 2 blue lights are stuck on - "Hi-Temp Scrub" and "3-Ho ur Delay". When the unit did clean my dishes it did not clean well. It left a white residue from the dish-washing liquid. I used a top name dish-washing detergent brand/pre-rinse and rinse-aid as suggested. This was the same dishwashing detergent I have been using for years in my old KitchenAid and I never had a problem.. So the white residue I feel is not due to hard-water or dish washing products. One of the great reasons to buy from Sears is customer service - I have to rate them at the top of list. I called Sears about my problem and the next day the Sears repair man came out as scheduled and after about 15 mins he informed me that the unit had so many problems he suggested I should ask for a replacement unit. However, he could not write that down on the work order because he is told to replace and order new parts and fix if if at all possible - per Sears standards & procedures. However because of the soppy water sitting in the bottom of the unit it had stained the stainless steel and most likely would not come out. My old KitchenAid of over 18 years looked better inside then this new unit. The Sears repairman felt I had a good reason to ask for a replacement (Ya think). He also did tell me that I had 90 days to return the unit and ask for a full refund if it was not working up to par. I called back Sears customer service and they asked me to go back to the store where I purchased the unit "Great Indoors" (a division of Sears) and speak to a manager which I did to work out a resolution getting a new replacement unit. I was informed by the store manager that I would get a call from the installation/repair/delivery manager the following day. The next day, I received a call from the manager and at first she wanted to repair the machine I said "no way" I wanted a new unit. In the end she agreed to replace the unit, however I would have to pay for a re-installation because I did not use a Sears installer. At this point I was so upset I just asked for my money back (under the 90 day return policy) and I asked them to pick up the unit. She agreed and I'm still waiting for a pick up date.

I bought both the Infinity Pro Hot Air Spinner 2" and the John Frieda Salon Shape 1.5 Inch Hot Air Brush ( JF for short). Both are great products. The Infinity by Conair is rated #1 and JF is rated #2. I had a hard time trying to decide which to buy. Then bought both. I wanted to share the differences between the two in case it helps someone else choose one or both. I love both products. The biggest difference is that the Infinity spins and the JF does not. The other noticeable difference is that the Infinity spin brush has very soft bristles. My hair is a medium- longish bob. The bristles are soft and won't just "grab" my hair unless I use the spinning option. It works great and it gives you the blow out look. The JF may not spin but the bristles are soft and they have some sturdier bristles mixed in which does grab hair very easily. It also will give you the blow out look. If you have shorter hair, the 2' Infinity Pro Spin won't really be small enough with the overall shape or size. I would opt for a smaller barrel. I believe the Infinity does come smaller. The JF 1.5" grabs shorter hair easily ( it has some harder bristles). It was used on my mom's hair because her hair is shorter. The Infinity worked too spinning, but a smaller barrel size would've worked better on her hair. The JF worked great. As I said, both are great products and I'm glad to have both. Mine is the Infinity and the JF is my mom's. So I have been able to use both and see the differences, pros and cons. Both have 3 settings, high,low and cool. Both style very well. I have never been able to perfect the art of using a brush in one hand and a hair dryer in the other to dry my hair. I use the Conair styling hair dryer that has a brush attachment to "dry my hair". Another thing is that both the Infinity and the JF work best when your hair is about 75-80% dry. Then you can fix any frizziness or curl with either product. ( Both my mom and I have curly hair). I know this review is being written on the Infinity page, I did the same on the John Frieda review. I love how the Infinity spins nicely, and it spins in either direction which is great! It does not tangle and shapes my hair very easily. I can understand why it's rated #1. I love it and have had no problems. It's a learning curve, but an easy one. I used to have the Instyler, and I had a hard time with that one. Mainly because the tip got too hot. The tips or the ends on the Infinity and JF both warm up and can get quite warm. Thermal gloves work fine if you need something, but you can buy cheap gloves at Walgreens and they work just as well. I haven't found a need for either. The only thing I wish the Infinity had was a few harder bristles mixed in with the very soft bristles. They would help in grabbing hair if not using the spin option. I wouldn't take off any points for that. As I said, both products are great! They both shape and smooth while styling! Both work great at the roots providing extra lift! I hope this review helps someone make a decision if needed. Both come in different sizes which is good. Both work very well which is great! I love the Infinity product and highly recommend it! Hope this helps someone!! I know I had a hard time deciding, and I'm glad I bought both. I do use my Infinity all the time. I do not use my mom's JF as often but she does use it and she loves it too! . Sorry I used the word "both" so many times! :) Thanks! I hope this helps someone!

I have been saving for a personal 5L beer keg dispenser after seeing all my 'cool-friends' with the Heineken Beer-tender, but the reviews on their life-span turned out to be true (they quit if you keep a close to empty in the unit for more than a day or two) and I wanted something that operated differently. I love this machine for the most part, and am working on making adjustments to the parts that are a miss for me. I love that it holds 2 x 5 Liter kegs and the accessories that come with the machine will allow you to use virtually ANY 5L keg style out there: Co2 pre-charged kegs like Heineken and Newcastle as well and any un-charged keg. The fact that this is an actual fridge protects the item from conking out because of a no-load melt-down like the other dispensers I have experience with. Now the misses on this unit; this is a fridge and it boasts a glass shelf to chill your beer glasses. This is included and a really cool idea, however the shelf is way to close to the top of the chiller for anything taller than a shot-glass and so is pretty much useless for any practical use. Maybe someday I'll find some glasses that fit in there but right now I just can't make it work. Next miss, and this is the biggest one; the pour spout looks very large and so you would think the flow of the brew would be almost as fast as a bar tap. Unfortunately this was very far from reality. The handle uses a 3/16" ID vinyl tube identical to the kind used in an aquarium aerator pump. The pour is excruciatingly slow! The tap handle works by pinching the tubing within the plastic spout but there is room for a slightly bigger tube. Today I went to a local hardware store and picked up a 1/4" ID vinyl tube and installed it,(after sterilizing) this helped quite a bit but is still way too slow for my taste. The speed is slower than the included tap on a Heineken 5L for reference. I will continue to work on this and it is usable, just a sticking point for me but NOT a reason avoid this machine. The LED light is a cool idea, but that is about as much effort as they put into it. The light can be seen if you look through the window, but doesn't light up the fridge interior unless all the external lights are off in the room. In fact I forget it's on some times and leave the room because I can't tell that it's doing anything by just glancing at it. LED's run cool and it's a great idea, just no follow though on this. The temperature adjustment is very cool(no pun intended) and even though the fridge settings bottom out at 38 degrees, the fridge is normally sitting at 36 degrees making very tasty beer. The door is not reversible as described in the product features, the latch is molded on the door and cannot be opened from the right side. Co2 control seats well and is easy to setup and adjust. Overall I am really pleased with this product and do recommend this to others as a more reliable alternative to the Beer-tender, but I recommend it most for those who are home-brewers and aren't afraid to 'tinker' with the tap handle to get a better flow. I am most excited about the home-brewing aspect of this products versatility, as I myself have just started a batch of Oktoberfest home-brew and just ordered a Keg&nbsp;<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/5-Liter-Party-Keg-with-Tap-for-Homebrew/dp/B001RUW64K/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">5 Liter Party Keg with Tap for Homebrew</a>&nbsp;and am beyond excited to have my brew on tap for my friends instead of passing out bottles.

This review is for the "Refrigerator Condensor Fan Motor for Sub Zero 4200740" sold by "partshouse". (That's the way they spelled "Condenser".) Our Sub-Zero is a model 690. This fan motor works great for it. It appears that Sub-Zero uses the same condenser fan motor for many different models, hence the proliferation of parts that come with this replacement motor. My motor kit included all the pictured items. It did not include a new fan blade. Installation was almost a snap. It was a very quick process to select the correct connector and insert the wires. Then the only issue was to remove the old fan motor bracket with the fan motor and fan attached, swap the motor, and reinstall. It sounds simple enough, but that doesn't mean that it's easy. (Simple and easy are different. e.g. "Buy low and sell high" is simple but not easy.) Getting the rearmost screw removed from the fan mounting bracket was probably the most difficult task, but if you are handy and have a good assortment of tools you should be able to do it. It should go without saying that you should have the refrigerator turned off while you are working in the mechanical compartment. I unplugged mine as well. When all was said and done, I am VERY happy with this replacement motor kit. I really can't say whether the fan is louder with the new motor or not, mostly because I don't think my original one was working all the time. Do you suppose those reviewers who complain about the noise are upset because their old fan was off and now they have one that is turning? We had two symptoms indicating that this fan motor might have been failing, but I didn't recognize that these symptoms indicated the fan. The first was that the center wall between the refrigerator section and the freezer section on our side-by-side was hot. Allison Cummins' review from 18 February 2013 mentions that this is an indication that the condenser fan is failing. The other symptom was that we were getting "Vacuum Condenser" messages way too often, sometimes within days of vacuuming the condenser. If I had thought about that for a while, I would have realized that if the refrigerant doesn't cool sufficiently as it passes through the condenser, the system assumes that the condenser is dirty and turns on the "Vacuum condenser" message. This same condition can occur if the condenser fan has failed or is intermittent, even with a clean condenser. So, if you see a "Vacuum Condenser" message more than you should, and/or if the center wall between the refrigerator and freezer is hot, you should be checking for a failed condenser fan. A hint: While we waited for this motor to arrive our refrigerator was getting quite warm. I bought a small $12 "personal fan" at the local hardware store and set it up to blow onto the condenser. I also left the front cover off the mechanical compartment. This kept the refrigerator working and we didn't lose any food except for the ice cream, which had already gotten too soft. In fact, after I installed the little "personal fan" the fridge worked better than it had in months. One last tip: I took a precaution to ensure that this fan motor never fails again. I bought another one as a spare. I'll store it right inside the mechanical compartment above the refrigerator. The currently installed motor should work forever as long as the fridge knows there's a replacement ready. This is a great replacement part for a very reasonable price. I'm sure that had I bought one from an authorized Sub-Zero parts distributor it would have cost three or four times what I paid for this one. Don't even ask what it would cost to have a service technician come out and change it. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED! - Loren

Found this part leaking on refrigerator, refrigerator model number is ED25LFXHT02, I don't think this model number is listed in the description of the models this part fits but it is the right part. The Sears parts web site uses actual manufacturers part numbers so you can double check parts numbers there, most appliance parts web sites use pseudo numbers. I had no idea Amazon would handle a part like this but found it by accident and I am glad I did. This was by far the best price I found for this part. The part appears to have a better locking piece for the water tubes than the original part (the plastic lip is wider, easier to move with your thumbnail). Reviewed the online videos on tips to replace this part. It came in a Whirlpool bag, genuine Whirlpool part, nothing loose in the bag. I had spent an hour or two on the floor finding the leak and removing the old part, Amazon free shipping took about 6 days so no water on the door or ice during that time. I checked with a local appliance repair place, they wanted $ 70 for the part and they would have had to order it also. They said the only option was to replace the whole housing, they also said this was a fairly common problem. I asked if they thought silicon sealant would work and they said probably for a few days, not long term. I started to let them fix it but I think it would have run over $ 200 once I added a new water filter, trip charge, and labor. The refrigerator is 13 years old so after looking at the reviews on this part and the videos I decided to try it myself and I am glad I did. Repair time after I got the part was about 20 minutes for this part. The water tubes are not long so I had to slide the housing part way in and work my hand in to connect the tubes, not easy but doable. There were no leaks on this part the on first attempt. My refrigerator had a connector in front of this housing that connected two different size water tubes together to feed the water in the door feature, I had to take this loose to replace the housing. When I put it back together the connector leaked. The diagrams I used to get the filter housing part number did not show a part number for the coupler, but they are available on Amazon for about $ 4. The coupler used O-rings just like the filter housing and they were the same age so it is understandable they might fail also, especially after I took it apart and reconnected it. I wanted to finish this repair so I took the connector apart and used a jewelers screwdriver to remove the O-rings and went to a local (good) hardware store and got new O-rings as close as I could match to the ones in the coupler. My hardware store also had an assortment of similar couplers, just not the reducing coupler I needed, if they had I would have just bought the coupler. I went home and put the coupler back together and put it in place and was thrilled that it did not leak. The next day I pulled the grille off the refrigerator and rechecked, there were no leaks, I think this repair was successful. My Suggestions: Do not be afraid to try this repair on your own. You might be able to take the old housing apart and find new O-rings to fit it and keep from buying the part. I did not do this but after having success with the coupler it might be worth trying that first. I hope I don't have to replace this part again during the life of this refrigerator but if I do I will try new O-rings first (now that I know how this thing works, it is just water tubes thrust into tight O-rings, the plastic part you push in to release just grips the tubes to hold them firm), If you order this part and have a water line coupler you must disconnect to replace it consider ordering a new coupler for a few dollars to save yourself the problem I had. Happy DIY'ing

After several months of studying this "pureWash" and after my wife firmly commented that we were not going to even think about buying one,,,,, I bought one. When I unpacked the box and she could see what it was,,,, you know what hit the fan. Man did I get the silent treatment. After I checked the water pressure and temperature, 60 psig at 58 degrees F, I mounted the unit on the wall, hooked up all the water lines, turned on the power and did a flush on our LG 4.0 front load washer. In just a few minutes I could begin smelling the ozone's. Our laundry room is only 9' x 8' so the smell got strong quickly. Luckily we have an exhaust fan and a window in our laundry room so I was able to remove the smell quickly. I have even noticed a fresher smell through the house which is nice. My granddaughter said "it smells like the Ocean." Anyway, my wife has this blouse that has a stain on the front. She was planning to take it to the cleaner to see if the stain would come out. I took this blouse and threw it into the washer with towel, t-shirts, p-jays, and whatever else was in the laundry basket. I did treat the blouse with a Spot Removal product. When the wash cycle was finished I removed this blouse and the stain was GONE. My wife looked for the stain, none there, smelled her blouse and smiled but still not speaking to me. Then I took a white t-shirt that was washed a few days ago in hot water with bleach and compared it with one that was washed with her blouse and said can you tell which one was wash in bleach and hot water Vs the "pureWash". She picked the "pureWash" t-shirt as being the one washed in bleach and hot water. Pros; Cleaner clothes, better smelling clothes. No detergents, bleach or softener. Occasional spot removal. Drying time has been cut in half. Better for the Septic System. Cons; Made in China. My wife is speaking to me again. So if you have the correct water pressure, 40 - 75 psig and water temperature less than 70 degrees F., stop thinking about buying one and just buy it. I hate to think about how much money I wasted this last winter on my gas bill while I was deciding to purchase this unit. Update; I have noticed that after several washing the smell has gone way down. I hardly notice the Ozone smell anymore. Must be due to cleaning out the washer. After using this for more then two months it makes me wonder why the environmentalist and all of the Greenies are not pushing a product like this. Makes me wonder if they do worry about our streams, lakes and drinking water or do they only care about their donations. Shame on them!!!! Lets be sure to buy their Mercury filled light bulbs. I am sure that is going to be great for our environment. A CONCERN; 2/10/14 I called pureWash about why the Ozone smell is gone. When we do our laundry the cleaning is still great but the Ozone smell has disappeared. The light in the window is still blue, have strong bubbles but no smell or Red light. Well the engineer was helpful in telling me what to look for but went on to tell me that they would not cover my unit due to buying it on ebay. When I bought this unit I filled the warranty card with the Dealers name and the date I bought it. The next day I received this reply, "The warranty for your pureWash is now registered. We hope you enjoy the effectiveness, cost savings and countless other benefits of using pureWash Eco-Friendly Laundry System to clean your clothes and linens!" If I new this unit was not going to be covered I would have sent this unit back within my time frame to return. So before you buy, give these guys a call to be sure of the warranty.

Amazon says 5 stars means "Love it". It's very hard to love a washing machine part. This one isn't lovable, but it is an exact replacement, arrived in a sealed, legitimate Whirlpool carton, fits exactly, and is the same quality as the one that came off. And, delivery was prompt. Most folks have to change these because of a tear or chunk that comes off near the bottom. The is happens because of the abuse that occurs when loading and unloading. It's tempting to shove clothes in and yank them out.... we're all in a rush these days.... but that's the main cause of a damaged seal. Be gentle while loading and unloading, and your boot will probably not be nearly as likely to tear. Be forewarned that if your machine uses a teardrop looking trim ring, it's one of the parts that has to come off, and it's held in place by two curved grey plastic strips on either side of the door. The trim ring is snapped in place, and it's very likely you'll break a few of the snaps. Each of these rings is $30, and they're not available on Amazon. In my case, a couple of them broke, but the teardrop trim seems to be pretty secure so I'm leaving it alone for now. My machine is a WFW9750WW01 duet. Most Duets are similar but there are some small differences. Start by unplugging the machine. The repair sequence is (a) remove lower front panel -3 screws, (b) remove top cabinet panel, 3 screws located on the back of the washer (c) remove trim ring (this is where the snaps break), (d) depress the blue tab and slide out the detergent dispenser, (e) remove two screws on either side of the detergent dispenser, (f) Unsnap the control panel and carefully fold it up over the top of the machine, no need to disconnect wires but ENSURE MACHINE IS UNPLUGGED-- if a wire shorts to the cabinet that would be a VERY expensive mistake, (g) open the front door and remove two screws that secure the door lock to the panel, (h) use needle nose pliers or a small flathead screwdriver to remove the spring clamp that secures the bellows to the front panel, being careful not to damage it, then detach the old bellows from the front panel, (i) remove front panel, leaving door attached - 4 screws, (j) loosen the worm drive screw clamp until you can get it out - don't damage this either, it needs to be re-used, (k) remove the translucent white detergent dispensing tube from the old bellows, again being careful not to break it since it's plastic, (l) look at the old bellow to be sure you are clear on how it fits, then remove the old bellow and discard, (m) clean up everything, especially the surfaces where the new bellows gets clamped into place. Take some time and clean it well. Any crud under there can cause a leak. Now, reverse the steps to get the new one installed. Be sure to check that the new bellows is seating properly under both the screw clamp and the spring-loaded wire clamp. That wire clamp comes off easy but can be a challenge to get on...extra hands are useful, and you will need to use a set of pliers or a visegrip to let you stretch the spring. Be patient, be careful not to damage the new bellows with your tools, and don't overstretch the spring - stretch it just enough. There are a lot of steps, so it will take a while to do this. As mentioned earlier, the snap on plastic stuff is always problematic because after a few years the plastic gets brittle, so be careful. If I had to do it again I would have those grey plastic curved snap strips on hand, but as mentioned mine seems be holding ok with a few of the tabs broken. Good luck! It's a very nice washing machine...definitely worth keeping in top shape.

Before I get into the details of my setup, I want to say I am very happy I bought this controller. It's not hard to install or use and it works really well - but more importantly, I had contacted tech support at Control Products and they quickly helped me. It was clear that they genuinely cared about resolving my issue. They were professional, knowledgeable, friendly - just awesome. It's not often you get that kind of experience when you call customer support and I can't say enough good things about them. As it turned out, there was nothing wrong with the controller. I had it plugged into a switched outlet that turned off when the room lights were shut off. Ugh, I know. I bought this to control the temperature of my fermenting mead and beer. I placed a small ceramic heater inside an upright freezer and the controller keeps the temperature inside the freezer wherever you set it (within a set window.) Here's my setup: Model: TC-9102D-HV SP1: Cool @ 71 SP2: Heat @ 67 Dif 1 & 2: 2 All other settings are default This creates an effective range of 65 to 73. This may seem like a large variance, but it works well for me for a few reasons. The ceramic heater still radiates some heat after it shuts off. That causes the temperature in the freezer to raise another degree or two which would cause the freezer to turn on if the cool setting was set at a lower temp. The 2 minute differential setting prevents any short cycle issues. Finally, the average temperature works out to be 69 (my target temperature) and since the air temp changes much more rapidly than the liquid in the fermenters, the yeast do not really "see" the change at all. For installation I used a drill and bit a #2 phillips screwdriver 4 small sheet metal screws (not sure of size) some wire to make jumpers <a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/a-3-8-cable-clamp-connector/dp/B000VYIXIQ/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">a 3/8" cable clamp connector</a> <a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/and-some-yellow-and-orange-wire-nuts/dp/B000K7M35I/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">and some yellow and orange wire nuts</a> I got my stuff at HD I mounted the controller on the side of the freezer using some sheet metal screws. In the back of the controller there is a hole for wires to pass through into the freezer. I drilled a hole in that spot -into the freezer- large enough for the temperature sensor wire and heater power cable to fit through. I cut the ends off the freezer and heater power cords and fed them into the controller. I used an Ohmmeter to make note of where the hot and neutral wires were when I cut them. Using the cable clamp, I passed the freezer cord through a hole in the bottom of the controller. This is also where the power cord for the whole setup goes. I used a spare computer power supply cord and cut the female end off that. Then I just followed the wiring diagram found on Control Products website, using bits of solid copper wire for jumpers and wire nuts as needed. Others on here have said to reverse the hot and neutral wires. Whew! That's it. Not too hard or expensive and works great! I've got 3 batches of mead fermenting in the freezer and I've ordered another controller to do a second set-up. Home-brewing is fun!

I recently spent many, many hours over several weeks looking for a new dishwasher to replace our 50+-year-old Kitchenaid. After research online and visits to stores, I would settle on one model only to change my mind after reading more user reviews online. I chose and unchose 3 or 4 dishwashers this way. Of course, even good products have a small percent of negative user reviews online, and this wasn't why I decided against the various dishwashers. At the beginning of my search, I was focused on the question of which features I wanted (`integrated' controls or front facing, hard food disposer, etc.), but eventually I realized that, given today's generally shoddy production standards, the key issue for me was: how well built is the machine, how long will it last, how many repairs will it need? From everything I read, it became clear that many dishwashers on the market that have wonderful features, that are wonderfully quiet and energy efficient, and that perform well on tests by Consumer Reports, are in fact made with cheap parts that do not last (often sourced from around the world for the lowest possible cost). The dishwasher can seem great at first, but after a few years the parts wear out, the dishwasher is not as quiet as it used to be, and it starts to require costly repairs. KitchenAid dishwashers, for example, used to be well made--several decades ago--but no longer. The same seems to be true of Bosch. I did not want to spend $1000 on a dishwasher only to have it start breaking down in a few years. At this point in my search I took another look at Miele. I had originally dismissed Miele as too expensive, but I discovered that this company had recently released a new low-end model ($999 for stainless steel), the Futura Classic G4205SS, to compete with other dishwashers at this level. The salesman at our store said that Miele tested the G4205 extensively for 3 or 4 years before releasing it to the public to ensure that it would not have any problems. He also said that Miele makes all of its own parts; it does not use parts made by third-party manufacturers. Similarly, for installation, they insist on Miele installers. The stainless steel on the G4205 has a glass coating to reduce fingerprints. The controls are on the front rather than `integrated.' This is what I prefer so that I can turn the machine on and see the status of the cycle without having to open the door. All other brands with front controls that I considered (<$1000) had a plastic panel for the controls (sometimes the panel is a silvery color to match the stainless steel below, but it is still plastic). In contrast, the G4205 control panel is stainless steel. Also, this dishwasher doesn't have the ubiquitous Hummer-style handle, which I never liked and which will probably start to look old-fashioned soon, once manufacturers begin the next cycle of making current styles look out of date. I've used this dishwasher for a couple of months now. It is really quiet, the dishes come out super clean, the controls are very simple and easy to use, it has a beautiful, minimalist look, and it's very energy and water efficient. Best of all, I expect that it will last. The only tiny quibble I have is that it is smaller inside than my old KitchenAid; I've learned to load dishes in a very compact way but still can't fit as much into this machine. Some potential buyers might care (I don't) that after a wash the floor of the dishwasher has a bit of water on it (probably an energy saving feature). However, if you open the door a crack the water evaporates before too long. In sum, a near-perfect dishwasher (for me) in a field filled with low-quality competitors.

I fixed my own freezer! Wish I had known this info before I did it, as I would have saved about fifty bucks. If you have a freezer that *isn't freezing*, it is often because it isn't defrosting. (The frost buildup blocks the airflow past the cooling fins.) #1 The Defrost Timer ( Frigidaire 297318010 Defrost Timer) is VERY likely to give out eventually. It is just a mechanical timer, so it has a small motor that can go bad or its metal contacts can get fouled by the normal arcing that happens as it switches from refrigerate to defrost mode and back. This is super easy to get to and replace from the back of the refrigerator/freezer. It's about ten to fifteen bucks, so it's a cheap easy fix. (To diagnose, look for the little dial that you can turn. If you turn it, it will click and the freezer should turn off, then turn it just a little more and it should turn back on. If that happens, the contacts are fine. (If it doesn't turn the freezer off and on, then the contacts are fouled - so replace the timer.) If the contacts are fine, next mark a line on the dial and move it to the 12 o'clock position. Wait a few hours and come back and check it. If it is still in the 12 o'clock position, then the motor on the timer is dead, and you need to replace it. If however the timer has turned to, say, 2 o'clock, then the timer is still good and it is very likely that there is a different cause for the freezer to have stopped. #2 This Thermostat ( Frigidaire 297318010 Defrost Timer ) is located inside the freezer, behind the bottom back panel, near the heat exhanger that looks like a radiator. (On mine, it was at the upper left corner of the heat exchanger.) The thermostat is fairly easy to get to, and you can replace it for about ten bucks. (Especially if it looks bloated or like it came apart at all, just replace it.) To get to it, remove the shelves, and unscrew the panel. Pull the dial for the temperature selector straight off, and unclip the temp selector from the panel. There will likely be a LOT of ice behind it, if you haven't already defrosted the unit. If you still have to defrost it, unplug the freezer and place a fan inside of it (up on a couple boards to keep it out of the melting water). Leave the door open and the fan going for a couple hours and the ice will all be gone, easily, except for the water all over the floor... I'd defrost it in the garage, or outside if possible. #3 The defrost heater / heating element ( Frigidaire 216730700 Defrost Heater for Freezer ) is located under the heat exchanger, and is attached with some thin aluminum strips. It shouldn't really go bad, so I'd try replacing the above two items first. But if they don't fix it... well here's another forty or fifty bucks to throw at fixing the problem. Be careful with the aluminum strips that hold the defrost heater in place, and you can re-use them. (If they break, do NOT use a non-aluminum wire to hold it in place, or you could ruin your freezer!) Other diagnostics: (I haven't done these, but they came up in my searches and fixes.) If the fan doesn't run inside, that's a fairly obvious thing to replace, and looks to be pretty easy. Be sure to cycle the defrost timer to check it. If there is just not enough cooling, but there is no frost buildup and the fan works, then the temperature selector might be the problem. If the compressor doesn't run, there is a capacitor that I've seen come up as a replacement part. If nothing works at all - no lights, no fan, no compressor, then you might have had a power surge that blew out the computer board.

If you are purchasing this part then you feel confident enough in your ability to do the work. In that case... do yourself a favor and look at your existing fan motor before ordering. This is for a couple of reasons: 1. You may get in there and find that ice has just built up around the fan housing over the years and all you need to do is pull the ice out and wipe it down (this was my case). 2. You will realize once all of your food is out and melting that this is a "universal motor" and you'll be sitting there staring at connectors that are nothing like what you need and a set of worthless instructions telling you to cut and splice wires. Now, I'm actually pretty capable with splicing, soldering, wiring etc. but the instructions are WORTHLESS (see attached pic). Black and white, tiny pictures, 4 point font and so blurry that you have no idea what wires they are even asking you to cut. Then if you actually cut the wires? No way to know what you are splicing into because the colors aren't even the same. So I am sure based on current reviews that the part works great for those that just need to plug it in but for those with (probably older) models of this fridge, you are going to be standing there scratching your head while your food melts, squinting at worthless instructions. For people wondering if they should do this: It is relatively easy! All you need is a 1/4" nut driver and I had to use needle nose pliers to get to one of the connectors. Take all of the food and shelves out of the freezer (place the food in a bin and pour the ice in your ice maker dispenser over the top, make sure you wipe everything down before placing them back in the freezer to avoid adding unnecessary moisture and ice back into the unit). I do not recommend using a drill to re-insert the screws, most of the screws you are going to be working with will be going back into plastic so there is a good chance you will strip the hole. UNPLUG THE FRIDGE FROM THE POWER!!! There are two screws on top of the ice maker, just loosen them until you can push the ice maker up and pull it over the screws. They are held on by brackets that look like ^ so the screws don't need to be taken all of the way off. Push the sides of the power connector and disconnect. Set aside. There are two screws on the bottom of the ice dispenser motor, remove them and put them wherever you're going to put the dispenser. Lift and set on the shelf below it. There is a connector that is in a hole in the back. My fingers were WAY too big to get in there so I had to use the needle nose pliers to grab it and pull it out. Set aside with the screws that go with it. Take all of the shelves and bins out of the freezer. You do NOT need to remove the brackets that hold the bins that are attached to the wall. Remove all of the screws around the large metal plate on top in the back (the one with the hole you had to disconnect the dispenser motor), pull out and set aside with the screws that go with it. Remove the screws around the bottom plate just below it, lift it straight up and set the plate and screws aside. You should from this point be able to grab the motor housing and pull it out to look at it (or de-ice it if that ended up being your problem) See if the connectors are the same as what is shown on the site. If you still want to go with this motor because of the price research how you will need to splice the connectors. There ARE motors out there that will just pop in and connect. Reverse the steps to get everything back together. I recommend wiping everything down (including the backs of the metal plates and the motor housing) to get all of the excess moisture out of the unit at this point. Everything is going to be thawed and wet. Now would be a good time to give your ice tray a good scrubbing and remove the calcium build up.

I think I need to review this item in a way I haven't yet seen, for those of us not experienced in converting stoves who have a little trepidation at doing so. What is received in the kit is a baggie with maybe 15 orifices - small caps to be screwed on top of each of the range's burners. And an instruction booklet, that's complete, but a little hard for a novice to understand. There are described 5 main steps in converting the stove: 1. Convert the main intake from natural gas to propane, by unscrewing a small capped item in the back by removing the bottom oven drawer, flipping it over and screwing it back and replacing the cap. Even I had little trouble with this one. 2. Screwing down the oven gas intake to convert it to propane (less gas is needed). This one always stumps me, when plumbers say to "hand tighten" or "do no over tighten". I understand the threads may be stripped by too aggressive tightening. But, this is less likely with a retired grandmother (me) than with a strong plumber. It took some effort to tighten this down low enough to limit the flame throwing of the oven burner. 3. Same for the gas intake for the separate broiler intake. Not hard to do, just hard to get tightened enough to get the flame to the required (lower) length. 4. Replacing the orifices - the little pieces supplied with the kit. It wasn't hard to remove the burner top and two screws holding the burner down, then unscrewing the orifice already in place. Then matching the size on the removed orifice and replacing it with the recommended size in the booklet. There were extra sizes, so a handful of extra parts. They recommend putting the removed orifices in a baggie & attaching it to the stove in case you ever want to convert back to natural gas. Good idea and easy to do. One thing I read everywhere was to BE CAREFUL not to drop the new orifice into the stove top. You cannot lift up the stove top to get the orifice back out (unless you remove all screws and undo the gas pipes to the burners - too tricky for me). I had read about using a piece of paper towel inside your socket to hold the orifice and keep it from falling out. It worked to a point, but, naturally, I did lose the orifice. DISASTER! Or so I thought. I have a hint here that may be useful to others - if you lose the orifice, tilt the stove to the side nearest where you dropped it (to get it to roll to that side). Then tilt the stove to the back. Doing this allowed my orifice to roll to the side, then to the back and drop out of the area by the burners and onto the railing below the drawer where it was easy to retrieve. After this, the stove has to be connected to the gas line according to the stove mfg instructions. Then the stove burners are adjusted (mine by pulling off the knobs and using a thin bladed screw driver), to the lowest they can go without going out when turned to LOW. And the oven and broiler both adjusted by adjusting the air flow (a piece above where you adjust them to limit the gas for propane in Steps 2 and 3) - to allow more air if the flame is too big (likely to be). This has to be done after the stove is connected. There are a couple of good videos on YouTube for doing this. The included instructions were there and complete, but a little hard to follow where the actual adjustment was located on the range. All in all, the was a great product. I give it a five star because I, an amateur, was able to do it relatively easily (although with some trepidation). And, now that it's hooked up, I love my new range. But that's another review.

I received this much earlier than anticipated and began using it immediately. I had read reviews and was nervous particularly about the packaging, but this had a Styrofoam insert top and bottom to hold it securely and the carton was closed securely using that hard plastic non adhesive tape that is used on large cartons. Based on the earlier reviews I had read, I recommend you buy through the Amazon affiliate rather than directly as it is taking longer for (them_ to get it from warehouse to shipper than it did from First and Best to get them washer to my home.. So far it has proved to be very useful.! I was getting ready to do a Laundromat run when it arrived so I have done two to three small load each day since it arrived. I would be doing more, but since I am still waiting on the spin drier, my hands get tired wringing out the clothes and I have limited hanging space. I use it in the bathroom,since I have a hand held shower to use to fill it. It came with a second hose for filling with a small spring style hose clamp. Until I get some better set up, I used the hose clamp to secure the flared end of the second hose to the end of the drain hose to make it longer so that it doesn't flip out of the tub when draining. I do check that it is secure before each use. I just put the other end of the hose on the fill spout when I am washing clothes,. This actually works very well for me as I wear a lot of intense colors and always had to make the choice between combining my dark colors or doing hand wash. The first few washes were revealing as a lot of dye STILL came out and some of these clothes are over a year old. I do find that doing a lot of small loads works better for me than cramming the machine full. Since it is the motion of the water going through the clothes that does the cleaning, I think I get cleaner clothes and the machine works more quietly. I did discover just how much the water moves when I did a lot of whites and the bras were all tangled in with the underpants. Now I do them in two loads and I get a lot less tangles (also fasten the bras before washing - it helps!) Some people complain about no spin cycle but I did read the reviews and knew that. My grandmothers both used old wringer washers when I was younger and I just follow their example. Starting with your lightest colors (unless you use bleach), wash your least soiled clothes first, take them out of the soapy water, set them aside to be rinsed. Next load is slightly more soiled (or heavier) clothing. i usually do two or three small loads using the same soapy water. Then I drain the water, and start again with rinsing. Since these are mostly work clothes and I work in an office, they don't get too dirty. Do be careful when washing towels as the agitation really stirs up the lint and can get under the impeller. I found that agitating for a few minutes, soaking for an hour or two, then re-agitating for a few minutes generates less lint than a long constant agitation. Because I don't overload the washer, I find it easy enough to life the washer, water and all, to the vanity to drain and try to drain into the toilet so that the lint and soap scum don't clog the pipes for the sink and tub. Then I set it on top of the toilet to fill again, and then place it on the floor to go through the wash cycle. My bathroom layout is such that the cord isn't long enough to place the washer in the tub to do its thing. That would be ideal. As long as you are not tempted to overload the washer, whether with clothes, soap or even too high a water level, it is pretty quiet. I have only had it a short time, but if it doesn't hold up, I will update my review. I decided to also purchase a centrifugal spin dryer to make laundry day go more quickly

This is the best range I've ever owned. I've had it for just a bit over a year now; we purchased this after moving into a new home to replace the existing electric cooktop. We principally use cast iron for cooking, which doesn't perform nearly as well on electric ranges as it does over gas. Previously I'd used a 5-burner, in-counter GE Profile range with an enamel finish on both the cooktop and the pot stands with a separate wall-mounted electric oven. Here are the primary reasons I really like this product: First, the amount of space on the cooktop beats anything else available in a 30" width. I personally don't use the central burner very much, except very occasionally as a warmer when preparing large meals, but the presence of that central burner means that the other burners are moved outward somewhat, which means that each primary burner has room for larger pots. I can have a large stock pot and a 13" cast iron skillet side-by-side on the front burners and still have the back burners usable for pans up to about 10". The griddle that comes with the stove is made of teflon-coated aluminum, which I prefer not to use. Instead, for a griddle, I have a large piece of 5/16" steel plate with a rim and a pair of handles welded to it which I place across both burners on the left hand side, which can be adjusted to put out about the same amount of heat. When well-seasoned, this plate beats basically any griddle you can buy in terms of heat stability and evenness of cooking. Speaking of seasoning, the cast-iron pot stands are another one of my favorite features. As I mentioned before, previously I'd had a stove with enamel-coated pot stands, which were forever looking grimy and scratched easily in cleaning. The cast-iron stands, however, season up like any other cast-iron implement and don't show stains at all. As with most cast iron, never wash these with soap; simply use a rough scrubbing pad and hot water to remove any spills or spatters. Similarly, the stainless steel cooktop cleans up great. I just wipe it down every few days with a rag, give it a spray or two of stainless steel cleanser, wipe it off and it looks as good as the day it was purchased. I haven't had any trouble with scratches. I'm sure it would be possible to cook spills on to this surface if you really tried, but if you clean up after cooking there's no issue. Contrary to some reports that I read when purchasing the range, all of the front knobs *do* come off for cleaning. They come off by pulling directly out, without twisting; it is, however, a little hard to get a sufficient grip on them because of their shape. After taking them off a couple of times, though, they come off quite easily. The double oven feature is also great; the lower oven is good for pizzas or roasting hors d'ouvres (bacon-wrapped meatballs and bacon-wrapped dates are common in our house) and I use the oven for baking bread and making roasts using the probe on a weekly basis. The temperature control is excellent and the probe-based cook option makes doing a perfect pork shoulder roast as simple as turning the oven on and setting the probe to 155F. Finally, while this won't make a difference to many, it's even relatively straightforward to take this range apart. I was forced to do so after a mouse that had gotten in to the house through the new hole that we'd drilled for plumbing the gas pipe to the stove climbed up into the range and expired after touching an ungrounded transformer behind the instrument panel. To clean up the mess, I had to completely remove the back, sides, and top of the stove, the instrument panel housing, and more. It was a bit of a job, but the whole thing is put together with torx screws and as long as you keep track of your steps and label everything carefully all the pieces will just lift apart, giving you full access to all of the components should you need to access to replace anything (or get in to deal with a mouse corpse.)

To give you a perspective of where I'm coming from, I previously had a 48", 8 burner, double oven Viking range. After moving, I only had room for a 30" range. Pros: -Looks good, This is a freestanding range, not a slide in, but it doesn't have a back piece that sticks up. I hate the way those look. You also have to reach over hot burners to get to the controls on most ranges that have the back piece. This is the only range with 2 ovens that is like this except for the Electrolux which is dual fuel and requires a 220 line. The top of the stove (under the burners) is stainless also. On most ranges it is black even if the front is stainless. -Huge amount of oven space for 30". It has more than my 48" Viking had. -Lower oven preheats to 350 in 8 minutes, which is pretty fast. -2 powerful burners. They are higher BTUs than the Viking burners. The left front power burner can also can go down very low- almost like a candle for anything very delicate. -Electronics. Most ranges have most of these, but the "professional" ranges like Viking do not. This includes timer, temperature probe cooking, delayed start, etc. -Lower oven has an electric element on the ceiling to produce more even heat than just the gas burner on the floor. Not sure how this affects usage costs (electric costs more than gas almost everywhere in US for ovens). It is not 220, so maybe the draw isn't than much. -Self cleaning. Yes, even cheap ranges are self cleaning now, but some professional are not. My Viking wasn't. -Ball bearing rack. It moves very smoothly. Cons: -There is only 1 ball bearing rack in the lower oven. The other 2 (1 in upper, 1 in lower) are standard racks. For this price of stove, it would have been nice for them all to be ball bearing. -The middle oval burner is not very powerful. It works fine with the included griddle for pancakes, etc., but you can't generate enough heat for many things. If I put my cast iron grill/griddle over it (after replacing the griddle with the grate included), it doesn't get hot enough to do a good sear. Griddle is non-stick and will wear out in time. I use the grate instead of the griddle. It looks better and gives you a place to move hot pots/pans. -The lower oven is low to the ground. If you use the upper rack, it is fine. If you use the lower, it is awkwardly low. I try and use the upper oven and middle lower oven racks mainly, so not a big issue. If you are old, have back problems, etc., take into account that the bottom of the lower oven is almost at the floor. -The upper oven can handle pizzas, casseroles, veggies, etc. You can't put anything more than probably 6 inches high. You can't roast a whole chicken. I think for most people, that is not a problem as you have the lower oven which is pretty big. Use the upper for sides, keeping food warm, etc. The broiler is in the upper oven also. -I wouldn't have minded another power burner. The 2 back burners are pretty low output. I guess 2 powerful burners is pretty good. Other notes: -The noise from the fan is nothing. Those that complained have super hearing or a defective stove. It is more quiet than my Bosch dishwasher. -If you like to bake bread, use the lower convection oven. Do your final rise of the dough in the upper oven which will be warm, but not hot from the preheating of the lower oven.

I don't understand all the negative reviews here. When I bought my Cabrio about 5 1/2 years ago, it was one of the highest rated machines by Consumer Reports. I don't always agree with or go by their ratings in some things, and they can overlook problems, but they seem to have a pretty good testing system for washing machines. As mentioned, I've had it about 5 1/2 years, and I have not had a single repair problem, although I only need to do laundry about once a week. I usually use it set on Normal, but I may try Casual now, as one reviewer mentioned it gives it more water. However too little water has not been a problem. I have a white machine with a clear top, so I have watched the mechanism in action as it's washing clothes, and even in the Normal setting it does wet and rotate clothes in the wash. At first I didn't realize it needed HE detergent, but no harm was done and once I switched to HE detergent the clothes seemed even cleaner, about as clean as with an old Kenmore with a traditional agitator used in my previous residence. It seems like the agitation used in cabrio is gentler on the clothes, from observation of the action and perceived wear to my garments. More recently I started adding non-chlorine bleach (hydrogen peroxide). I always run the extra rinse cycle, just to make sure the detergent is rinsed out completely--I did that with my previous machine and would do that no matter what machine I used. I thought the washer may have been eating some socks, as I was missing about 4 or 5 mates, but I recently found several, including one long-lost one, so it wasn't the machine. I don't know if most modern machines have this, but I like the load balancing mechanism--I assume that's what it is--which gives the load a few spins at first, stops the drum short, and a balancing weight slides into position. If there are too many clothes, at some point in the wash cycle the machine stops, drains the water, shuts itself off and gives its shut-off beeps. The LCD screen reads oL, which means overload, so you need to take out one or more pieces of clothes and start the wash over with more detergent (it shuts off before the bleach is added, so that doesn't need to be replenished). This only happened for the first time in the last year, and only a few times. I think most of the problems people have with the machine (I can't speak to repair problems, as I've never had any), is that they are not used to the agitation mechanism and wash action, expecting it to fill the tub, and don't understand it. When Consumer Reports did one of their wash tests, which is to leave the clothes in the washer, for a period of days, I think, to see if any mold or odors developed, the Cabrio did fine in that regard, an indication it was thoroughly cleaning the clothes, and I have never experienced any odors in machine. PS My model, being from 2009, may be a little different than the ones reviewed here, as someone mentioned a Sanitize setting, which mine doesn't have, but I believe it's basically the same model, 4.6 cu. ft., stainless steel drum, clear top, etc. PPS it's now January 16, 2016, 11 months after I wrote this review, and the problem with the overload shutting the machine down and having to remove a garment, which is not fully spun dry, is happening almost every time now, and I'm not putting any more close in that I did before this started happening about two years ago. Researching the problem it seems this is a known issue, probably related to either corrosion or rust on the driveshaft, or the nut on the bottom which holds the assembly together becoming loose and falling off--this assembly is usually designed with the nut of the top to avoid this problem. It could also be a control panel or sensor problem.

I purchased this washer in January 2010 and was initially happy with the way it cleaned and I liked the top loader without an agitator so it could handle bulky items. The first year was great and the high speed spin cycle got the clothes almost dry so that very little time was spent in the matching gas dryer. January 2011 was my first service call, a week after the manufacturers warrantee expired. Fortunately for me the day I purchased it the unit was on sale for $100 less than I was expecting to pay and I was talked into the extended 4 year warrantee for $79. I don't usually purchase these warrantees but did this time because it was lower than my budgeted total cost. Best money I have ever spent! The January 2011 service call was a covered item, a control board part that cost around $250. Since then we have had several service calls, another replaced control board, other misc. parts I don't know and several weeks ago it started getting the dreaded UL (unbalanced load) code on a regular basis, to the point a load would have to be rinsed at least 3 times before it would cycle thru to the end and finally it wouldn't do the final rinse with a constant UL code. I ran the washer with nothing in it because the warrantee company said it wasn't a warrantee issue but I didn't know how to load the machine I've had for almost 4 years. I still got the UL code so another call to the service center to schedule an appointment. Based on this information they diagnosed the problem, ordered parts and scheduled an appointment a couple of weeks out. Service tech comes and it's not the problem diagnosed over the phone but a major bearing, the motor and other expensive parts. Again at least it's not costing me money, but I will be without a washing machine for almost a month before this worthless POS is working again. It's less than 4 years old and it's been one of the worst appliances I have owned; the service tech told me that major appliance like this have a 5 year life span these days, not what I would expect from a $1,000 item and I didn't even get close to that without major problems, in fact I made it only to 53 weeks. We had constant problems with an oversudsings error code, using the HE detergent; LD - long drain issues where the unit would shut down and not drain properly and UL codes over the years. Advice from service techs always seemed to be a problem other than the manufacturer design and quality, one tech said the LD issue and oversudsing was the HE detergent we were using (not a bargain no name brand but a leading company) the next tech said the current brand we switched to was the issue and recommended the original detergent we had been using. Is someone kidding! When we had LD - long drain issues - there would be a definite foul odor from the machine that didn't make you feel good about putting normal soiled clothes in a cleaning machine that smelled so foul. I will not spend any of my money on servicing this machine and the next issue will be the last one I deal with. Nor can I recommend anyone purchase it, at any price this washing machine is not worth the aggravation of a poor design, with a good concept, and obviously poor quality. I'm not sure I'll buy another Whirlpool product. Update - Jan 2014 - When the service tech came out with the replacement parts from Whirlpool the replacement part was broken and the machine couldn't be fixed again. Another delay and reordering of the part, this time the service company promised me that they would inspect the part prior to having a tech come to my house. They did and the second part from Whirlpool was broken also. It's bad enough to have a broken appliance, but to have two defective replacement parts sent was the last straw. I have a new non-Whirlpool washing machine. The first month has been good and I did purchase an extended warrantee. Other brand names from the same parent company of Whirlpool include Maytag, KitchenAid, and I understand also they manufactures for the Sears Kenmore line so they were all excluded from being purchased.

I love my EdgeStar countertop dishwasher! It is about the size of the microwaves of 1980s, so it isn't huge like a built-in, but it isn't tiny/mini either. I would venture to guess there is about the room of the bottom level of a full-size dishwasher. It is a perfect size for my husband and me, and it would be perfect for any mobile home or apartment. I've had it about 1 month, and it is THE best appliance we'd ever purchased. I was skeptical at first because I couldn't go into a store and touch it and look for myself before we decided to buy one. We had no problem hooking it up [and you can go online YouTube for a tutorial to watch how simple it actually is]. We have very hard water, and all I use is one Cascade action pac and I just place it into the soap container and shut the lid of the soap container. I use JetDry rinse agent, which you take the lid off, pour into the specified spot, and replace the cover [the directions state that the container should be refilled every month for great results]. I have no spots on any of my dishes and flatware at all. I always rinse off my dishes before I place them into the unit, because that is how I am. [If I ever wanted to hire a housekeeper, I would clean house before she came, too.] I don't wash my pots and pans in the EdgeStar, I prefer to wash them by hand. I usually wait until evening to wash dishes, because there is just my husband and me. The last rinse is heated in the dishwasher [there is no heating coil like in the large dishwashers], so when the dishwasher drains for the last time, it will beep 8 times, and the LED reading shows the minutes you had chosen for washing--it will not say DONE or FINISHED, so don't wait for it I just open the door a couple inches, go to bed, and in the morning everything is dry, spotless, and ready to put away. I washed a load, earlier than usual yesterday afternoon, and after the wash was finished, I cracked the door open, and about 1 hour or so later, everything was dry and ready to put away. After I put the dishes away, I always take out the filters at the bottom of the unit and rinse them off, as the directions state to do. I take a microfiber towel to sop up some of the water that naturally sets under the filters following a wash, and I use that wet towel to wipe down the inside of the dishwasher, my stove, countertops, and sink, as there is some of the JetDry mixed into that last water. Everything I wipe stays spotless and shiny, as well. I love it!! After I put dishes away, I always leave the dishwasher door ajar because there is naturally a bit of water setting under the filters. Something to note: As the JetDry bottle nozzle is too short, and I found I did more spilling around the "rinse agent", I went to the DollarStore and picked up one of those plastic red/yellow mustard/catsup containers that you refill and take on picnics. I just emptied the JetDry into the plastic mustard container and affixed the little tab that is attached to the purchased container, to keep the opening covered. It works great! The nozzle is long enough that I don't spill as I refresh the rinse agent into the container. I hope that this has been a help to you. It is easy peasy and the dishes are beautiful and spotless and I couldn't be happier. For 16 yrs my husband has poo-poo'd getting a dishwasher until I mentioned seeing this EdgeStar on Amazon.com. We live in a mobile home and we just didn't have room for a huge rolling unit and I didn't want to give up cupboard space for a unit. He liked the idea, checked out ALL of the comments on Amazon.com, and agreed to get it. We purchased the SmartGuard Protection insurance, as well. If anything ever happened to my EdgeStar, I would purchase another one in a heartbeat! You will not be disappointed.

I just got rid of the worst washing machine that I have ever had.....Whirlpool duet steam 4.5 cubic feet side load machine. Initially, it seemed like the perfect washer, but it was TERRIBLE! Clothes were stinky and would not get clean (no water), the cycle times were ridiculously long and the machine broke several times and it cost over $300 each visit. None of the features worked. So, I wanted to get a non-HE machine that had no electrical components or error codes that would not break down. I wanted a machine that actually had an agitator in the middle, used regular laundry detergent, would fill with water and didn't need to be cleaned with afresh every 3 weeks. I also wanted a washer that had a hand wash and delicate cycle. So after doing a lot of research, I found the perfect machine. All of the stinky clothes that were never washed properly are now clean and smell great. Out of all the other speed queen models, the AWN 542 is the only machine that has a fabric selector that has a regular, perm press, knits, delicate options and a cycle selector which has (regular [with pre-wash option], perm press, delicate, hand wash and soak). The tub is stainless steel and large enough for my needs at 3.5 cubic feet. This model also comes with an extra spin switch that you can turn on or off. Other reviewers are correct in that the washer does not fill all the way to the top (it fills to just over 3/4 of the way full), this is a restriction created by the government to conserve water. You can fill the tub to the top by using the refill option, but you must twist and hold it until it fills all the way to the top. Make sure to note that there is no sensor that will tell you when it is full (and the water will not automatically stop) or more importantly when it is too full, so be careful. During the spin cycle you must do the same thing if you have a large load in there (hold the refill button to fill to top). There is a way to over-ride this annoying feature - you can search on youtube - I haven't done it yet, but plan to. The wash times are very short and the machine is very powerful. I am so used to my old piece of junk whirlpool that took 1 hr 30 minutes for a normal cycle, that sometimes I wish there was a longer cycle option available (there is pre wash), but I am sure that is just my own paranoia. For heavy soiled clothes/loads, after the water fills and I added the detergent, I pull the lid open (this will pause the washer) to allow the load to soak before I start the cycle. Everything is manual on this machine - but very well made and commercial grade which is exactly what I wanted. There are no buttons and gadgets - it's a pretty simple machine that is not fancy to look at. If you like a lot of gadgets and buttons, this will likely not be the machine for you. I love how well it cleans my clothes, the short cycle times and being able to control the amount of water that i want in each load (and the option to add more water if I need it). It is true that the rinse cycle is always cold - there is no way to change this which is the only downfall of this machine and all speed queen machines from what I understand. I do notice that if I wash any of perm press items (gym clothes, blouses) with anything cotton it attracts lint very easily and sticks to the fabric. Aside from that, I absolutely love this machine and think you will too. I also bought the speed queen dryer ADG4BR (gas) it's 7 cubic feet and is amazing!

When my GE profile gave up the ghost after 14 years, I had to search for a replacement washer. As others have noted, the so-called new HE top loaders and the front loaders are, quite simply, five star pieces of junk. Imagine replacing a control panel after 2 years, dealing with mold along with numerous "fault codes!". Thankfully, Speed Queen still produces a machine that does precisely what it should do...clean the darn clothes. That being said, what you will find here is a sturdy, well made machine that isn't a whole lot different from SQ models of prior years. No bells, whistles, or convoluted contrivances designed to make one crazy, just simple straightforward controls. This machine is a 2 speed unit, has multiple fill levels (more on that later), a stainless tub, bleach dispenser, fab softener dispenser, and extra rinse switch. The tub measures 3.3 cu ft in terms of capacity. It comes with a 1/2 hp motor and a still uses an old fashioned belt to drive the transmission. I won't go into the details on how to use this machine; if you can run grandma's, then you can run this one without having to consult the manual. How does it wash? Very well indeed! The agitator runs at a 210 degree cycle, longer strokes vs short and harsh strokes on other machines. The only drawbacks are 1. The "warm" is barely warm (thanks gov't) and 2. the fill on the max load is still a bit shy of full capacity. I understand this is fixable but I have yet to mess with the water level adjustment. Overall, the machine is very quiet indeed. If you are familiar with an old school top loader, this machine won't throw any surprises at you. It has a pause/agitate on delicate/handwash cycle and will spray for about 45 seconds on the rinse cycle. Spin speed on normal is 710 RPM and the clothes do come out less damp than they did with my GE Profile top loader. The lid does not lock like the anal retentive HE top loaders so if you happen to forget to add something, you can simply raise the lid (wash action stops) add the item, close the lid and go about your business. In addition, the cycle times are in line with a normal top loader, no 2 hour affair just to wash a simple load of clothes. Naturally, old school quality has a price and this machine is not cheap. Those who insist on the cheapest of the cheap at your local BIG BOX store should probably look elsewhere. I paid $829.00 plus tax from a local appliance store in my area. I am satisfied with my purchase. SQ alone actually has a warranty longer than a measly 12 months! Don't take my word for it, check out Whirlpool, Amana, GE, Frigidare, and Maytag. Yup, a 12 month warranty, that's all. But many will insist cheaper is better. Good luck to you on that one. SQ on the other hand obviously has confidence in their machine as noted by the warranty terms below: Topload Washer Models * Three (3) years parts and labor limited warranty on the complete washer. * Five (5) year limited warranty on cabinet assembly against rust from the inside out. Year 4 through 5 parts only limited warranty. * Five (5) year limited warranty on the motor. Year 4 through 5 parts only limited warranty. * Ten (10) year limited warranty on the transmission assembly. Year 4 through 10 parts only limited warranty. * Lifetime limited warranty on the stainless steel tub and outer tub against rust or corrosion. I highly recommend this machine for those who are put off by intrusive government regulations that have resulted in masses of cheaply made machines that cause more grief than should be. On the other hand, for the skinflints out there, keep on keeping on heading to your local BIG BOX and grabbing the cheapest pile of junk you can.

I have to stand up in the midst of these glowing remarks and speak my peace. While these washers seem to be wonderful - mechanical (which was one of our requirements when we were looking), stainless tub, top load, real water temp (hot is really hot) - they don't wash dirty clothes worth beans. The washing cycles are too short, and they don't rinse out well - even with the second rinse. In addition, for example, my son came home the other day from hiking with his friends and the bottom of his pants were dirty and sandy. No problem, right? Throw them in the washer with the second rinse and we should be good. After all, that is as simple as it had been for the last almost 20 years with my Maytags. Sorry, major fail. All it did was migrate the dirt to other clothes in the batch and to other parts of the pants! Not only that, there was dirt and dirty water in the bottom of the tub. And no, I did not over-load my wash. Other minor issues: The top discolors quickly and easily - it's just paint, not porcelain. The hinge on the lid also squeaks and has to be lubricated. These are ok for those who may not need heavy duty washing as we do since we have four kids at home. But if you really need good cleaning - try something else. Our friends who bought the Samsung front loaders have been very pleased over the last 2.5 yrs they have owned theirs. This Speed Queen was a mistake. My dryer review will list separately, but it has been even worse. We have had ours for about two years now and we are thoroughly disappointed. If we could afford to dump these and get the Samsungs that we should have bought in the first place, we would do it in a heartbeat. I give it two stars since it does at least function and nominally wash clothes. But hate it we do. Update as of February 2014. This washer continues to disappoint. It does not rinse all the soap out, continues to wash poorly and leaves dirt and sand in the bottom of the tub. When you look carefully, the holes in the tub are not positioned for the dirt, sand, etc. to drain out of them with the water - the holes are more up on the side so the heavier sediments just gather on the bottom of the tub. Not only that, but that sand and dirt just seems to get re-distributed throughout the load and onto different parts of the dirty clothes. The company is not helpful in trying to deal with these things. Come on, it's a washing machine - after all these years can't you get it right? UPDATE as of 12/19/2014 Well, I updated my rating for the washer to two stars. It has been doing its designed job in an OK fashion. We have adjusted to its challenges, kinda of, but still not happy about the fact that the wash cycle is so short and it won't wash really dirty clothing very well, just transferring dirt around to different parts of the clothing (usually pants my kids have been camping in). Still noisy and since the top is just painted, it is starting to discolor now as well. FINAL UPDATE as of 2/7/2015 Well, the washer left the house last Thursday, never to return. Goodbye short wash cycles, inability to get clothes clean when they are really dirty, goodbye poor rinsing. Sorry, but it just didn't balance out the manual controls, straight hot water and a wash tub that actually filled with water. It just couldn't wash clothes very well. In it's place is now a Maytag MHW7100dw front load washer. After just a few days, we have found that it can wash clothes in very little water just as well - in fact better than the Speed Queen did - RIP.

There're numerous attributes about the Avanti portable dryer model, D-110-1 and some not so great. First, the unit is very light weight (40 lbs) which makes it very portable. I purchased a dryer venting box for inside venting, but found I didn't need it. This unit doesn't put off much heat or moisture(less than a small pot of boiling water) or lint, since it has duel filters(more on these later). The amount of heat is much less than a full size dryer yet gets the clothes dry in a gentle but fairly decent time frame. It helps to dry, similar materials together, keeping in mind jeans will take a bit longer. Clothes come out wrinkle free, and not burning hot like larger dryers, which means much less damage to your clothes. It's a fairly impressive dryer. Never over-fill the dryer, clothes will not dry in a timely fashion. The dryer does not have a dryer signal to alert you upon completion of the cycle. But it does have Hot, Warm and Air Only cycle plus a cool down setting to keep your clothes from wrinkling if you don't get to it right away. All the bells and whistles my full size had. Upon initial install the unit gave a horrible screeching sound, I pulled the back off and discovered the belt(very thin one) was not on properly, made adjustment. It appeared to be fixed but soon after unit once again would squeak and squeal, making it impossible to be in the room when it was running. Four months into use, the noise went away on it's own. The dryers filter system is somewhat daunting but it does serve a purpose to keep lint out of your house, if you choose indoor venting. There are several layers of filters and one that will need to be replaced after some time is a wool like material that after five months of use. I've had a difficult time finding replacements. I've searched the web, to make sure I had extra parts on hand like extra belts since the one that drives the unit is very thin. I've not found any parts houses that carry Avanti parts and the manual does not provide buyers with a parts list or schematic. Making parts identification difficult. I did find a similar "filter" material at the fabric store and made my own, and they seem to work better. I discovered the Avanti filter is the same as the Haier HLP140E portable dryer filter. All in all I really love the convenience and appearance of the Avanti dryer. And hope they have better availability for parts and filters in the future. I took off one star for the noise and poor parts availability. UPDATE: 12/28/11, After locating a parts (blowout) list, for this dryer. I made an attempt to order extra replacement parts, via Avanti. Ordering the parts from the number in the included catalog was straight forward, but after a month of waiting for "in-stock" parts I called once again to check the status, and got the run around. I waited another two weeks, and still no parts. When I called the third time, I was told they "just" were put into stock that moment, and they would "expedite" the shipment. While I was not impressed with the Parts availability from the start, I was really let down by the delay and run-around the parts department gave me. I even lessened the amount of filters and belts I ordered to assure quicker delivery, since the parts department informed me of the total number they had in stock. I think, I'll buy my filters and parts via Haier rather than Avanti, since they are the exact same part, but different makers. Avanti needs better service badly. Those of you needing Filter replacement, here are the part numbers and description of each filter. There are actually three "filters" 1. Small one at the door latch, called "air inlet filter" Part # GYJ42.2-4 2. The tighter mesh screen inside the plastic circle, called "filter" Part # GYJ42.5-5 3. Wool like fabric against the tub on back wall. called, "filter of inner tub" Part # GYJ42.5-6

There're numerous attributes about the Avanti portable dryer model, D-110-1 and some not so great. First, the unit is very light weight (40 lbs) which makes it very portable. I purchased a dryer venting box for inside venting, but found I didn't need it. This unit doesn't put off much heat or moisture(less than a small pot of boiling water) or lint, since it has duel filters(more on these later). The amount of heat is much less than a full size dryer yet gets the clothes dry in a gentle but fairly decent time frame. It helps to dry, similar materials together, keeping in mind jeans will take a bit longer. Clothes come out wrinkle free, and not burning hot like larger dryers, which means much less damage to your clothes. It's a fairly impressive dryer. Never over-fill the dryer, clothes will not dry in a timely fashion. The dryer does not have a dryer signal to alert you upon completion of the cycle. But it does have Hot, Warm and Air Only cycle plus a cool down setting to keep your clothes from wrinkling if you don't get to it right away. All the bells and whistles my full size had. Upon initial install the unit gave a horrible screeching sound, I pulled the back off and discovered the belt(very thin one) was not on properly, made adjustment. It appeared to be fixed but soon after unit once again would squeak and squeal, making it impossible to be in the room when it was running. Four months into use, the noise went away on it's own. The dryers filter system is somewhat daunting but it does serve a purpose to keep lint out of your house, if you choose indoor venting. There are several layers of filters and one that will need to be replaced after some time is a wool like material that after five months of use. I've had a difficult time finding replacements. I've searched the web, to make sure I had extra parts on hand like extra belts since the one that drives the unit is very thin. I've not found any parts houses that carry Avanti parts and the manual does not provide buyers with a parts list or schematic. Making parts identification difficult. I did find a similar "filter" material at the fabric store and made my own, and they seem to work better. I discovered the Avanti filter is the same as the Haier HLP140E portable dryer filter. All in all I really love the convenience and appearance of the Avanti dryer. And hope they have better availability for parts and filters in the future. I took off one star for the noise and poor parts availability. UPDATE: 12/28/11, After locating a parts (blowout) list, for this dryer. I made an attempt to order extra replacement parts, via Avanti. Ordering the parts from the number in the included catalog was straight forward, but after a month of waiting for "in-stock" parts I called once again to check the status, and got the run around. I waited another two weeks, and still no parts. When I called the third time, I was told they "just" were put into stock that moment, and they would "expedite" the shipment. While I was not impressed with the Parts availability from the start, I was really let down by the delay and run-around the parts department gave me. I even lessened the amount of filters and belts I ordered to assure quicker delivery, since the parts department informed me of the total number they had in stock. I think, I'll buy my filters and parts via Haier rather than Avanti, since they are the exact same part, but different makers. Avanti needs better service badly. Those of you needing Filter replacement, here are the part numbers and description of each filter. There are actually three "filters" 1. Small one at the door latch, called "air inlet filter" Part # GYJ42.2-4 2. The tighter mesh screen inside the plastic circle, called "filter" Part # GYJ42.5-5 3. Wool like fabric against the tub on back wall. called, "filter of inner tub" Part # GYJ42.5-6

I love my Whirlpool Duet Sport WFW8300SW (3.4 capacity) Front Loading washer and I'd recommend it to everyone I know. After several major brands turned into duds, Whirlpool and Kenmore are the only brands I trust for major appliances. Features I love: I don't have to guess the amount of water to use for the size of my load. This machine has an auto water level that adjusts to the size of the load. Since there is no agitator, my washer has increased in capacity. I can put more clothes in ...... up to 10 pairs of jeans! This model will let me add a garment during the 1st 7 minutes of a cycle before the door remains locked. I can choose from 3 spin speeds, 3 water temps, and I can add an extra rinse. The 7 preset cycles seem good enough to me but I'm happy I can make adjustments if needed. I love the quietness of this washer. I actually enjoy the sound of the gentle tumbling in and out of the water. My laundry feels softer and smells better despite that I'm using just 1/3 the recommended amount of fabric softener. An added bonus is that I will get a $100 rebate from my water company for buying this water-saving machine. I wish I could justify buying the matching dryer but my old dryer runs perfectly. Maybe in the future............ Some things to consider if you're torn between top loading and front loading washers: Top Load Washer Advantages: They're cheaper. Wash cycles are shorter. You don't have to bend down to get your clothes out of the washer. You can add an article of clothing at any time. Top Load Disadvantages: They use a lot of water, more energy to operate, and are hard on your clothes. The agitator is a brutal device that basically "beats" your clothes while drowning them. This is very hard on fabrics, particularly dark clothes, delicates and sweaters (I did see one top loader without an agitator but read that these machines do not achieve the greatest wash results). They are LOUD and can become unbalanced fairly easily. No ENERGY STAR models. They house a lot more machinery, which can mean more repairs. Front Load washer advantages: Much less water used - 14 to 20 gallons vs. up to 44 gallons in top load machines. Front loading machine drums are on a horizontal axis. They only use enough water to cover approximately the lower third of the tub while your clothes are tumbled up and around, in and out of the water. They use 67% less electricity and gas. They have less mechanical gear so they don't have to work as hard. Gentler on your clothes. The drum has no agitator so your clothes will not get whipped around and stretched. Cleans better. The clothes are drawn through the water, not the water through the clothes. The spin cycle is twice as fast as top loaders, which leads to less time in the dryer. So far I've noticed this results in 10-15 minutes less dryer time which equals more savings in energy. Also, there is now considerably less lint in the lint trap after each load. Less water = less detergent, less softener, less bleach. Not having an agitator gives 25-30% more space for larger loads. Disadvantages: Longer wash cycles. Excessive soap suds can create problems for the machine. I am supposed to buy a special soap labeled HE - High efficiency. Apparently many major brands sell this detergent but I haven't purchased it yet. I have tons of regular detergent and simply use 2/3 less. I have to bend down to put in and remove laundry. (Whirlpool makes a matching pedestal with a drawer. Pricey, but it's an option.) I can't soak laundry overnight since the water doesn't cover the clothes. I suppose I could soak in a bucket if needed. I have to run the "clean" cycle with chlorine bleach once a month. It is important to do because mildew can occur due to the air-tight seal on the front door. I should leave the door ajar after each load but this could be dangerous with cats around. Now it's up to you to decide.

I got my Eco-Egg because my small apartment has no washer or dryer hookups. I was looking for two things out of this product specifically- 1) compact size, and 2) ease of use. I loathe taking my clothes to the laundromat as it's often prohibitively expensive to do so and it rarely fits into my busy college and work schedule when I DO have the extra cash to clean all of my clothes. Regarding the first of my criteria, COMPACT SIZE: My apartment is very small. The amount of counter space near the sink (where the Eco-Egg is hooked up) as well as the amount of storage space throughout my home are both quite restricted. I needed a machine that would hold a decent load of laundry but would not take up much space. The Eco-Egg definitely hits the mark in this regard. It was much larger in person than I had imagined based on the pictures, but once I had it put together and ready to run, I realized that it is actually surprisingly compact. It fits easily on my kitchen counter and when it is not in use, it can be stored elsewhere in my kitchen without being too obtrusive. As for the second of my criteria, EASE OF USE: I found the user's manual to be mostly unhelpful. There were no directions for how to assemble the machine (luckily, it was not difficult to figure out on my own) and the directions regarding use were just a little... off. They were not impossible to figure out (the machine is basically straightforward- hit ON, start a full cycle, leave machine alone, the end!) but they were not super helpful either. However, if we ignore the manual entirely, the machine itself is INSANELY EASY TO USE. I just dumped in a few small clothing items, added a tablespoon of detergent, and started the Egg up. It washed the load very quickly, and then even had a funnel attachment that I could add to keep water from dripping everywhere when I was wringing out the clothes. The only thing that WAS NOT insanely easy to use was the water connection line-thing that attaches the egg to the sink. While it wasn't difficult to install, unhooking it for storage was trickier. I spilled water all over my floor before I realized that all the water had not been pumped out of the machine and tubes. Be careful disassembling for this reason! As other reviews have noted, there is NO SPIN CYCLE, so clothes are very damp when they come out. Personally, I wring mine out as much as possible, and then hang them up to dry. Lightweight items like underwear and t-shirts dry in a few hours while heavier items like pants take much, much longer to air dry. My pants have been hanging for almost 24 hours now and are still a little damp, so make sure to wring clothes out thoroughly and to allow plenty of dry time (if you are air drying.) I don't even care that some of my clothes are still damp the next day, though. They are much, MUCH cleaner than when I was hand washing them. They look and smell great! The Eco-Egg really washed them hard core! And it was surprisingly quiet as it did so. Plus, at just over $100, I'm going to save a lot of money (and time!) that would have been spent at my hot, crowded, horrible neighborhood laundromat. The Egg can hold a SMALL pile of laundry. Basically a few shirts and socks OR a pair of jeans and maybe a few pairs of underwear OR a hoodie and a few tank tops, etc. Really, it can launder one big item and a few small ones or a bunch of small ones with no big items. I had hoped my comforter might be able to make it in, but there's really no way. Regardless, I'm pleased with this purchase and would certainly recommend this product to anyone looking for a small washer that is easy to use and to store.

I bought this set from Home Depot 2 weeks ago. My mom has the front load option, which I love, so I decided to give this set a try. I scoured reviews for a month before deciding, so it wasn't a quick decision. I tried to leave a less than stellar review at Home Depot, and I got an e-mail saying that my review was denied. I was careful not to mention other product names or retailers, and I pointed out the pros and cons of the set. Now it makes me wonder how many bad reviews this set ACTUALLY HAS, if they won't let you submit a bad one. I tried to submit it twice, denied both times. So, here I am. Pros- Uses less water, so the dry time is shorter Has a lot of wash options Looks pretty Cons- When I wash my husbands work clothes that smell like grease and sweat, they come out after washing smelling like grease and sweat. I read a review at Home Depot that mentioned this, but hoped it was just a picky consumer. Sadly, not so much. I have noticed that many items (our new comforter, dog blankets, etc) have had the same problem. Nothing comes out smelling cleaner or any better than when it went in. The wash tub makes a loud metal on metal clunking sound when it moves. The tube rocks side to side to gauge load size and when it washes. Sometimes it sounds like there is broken metal inside. You can't use those downy freshner pellets (the kind you add to the washer pre-wash). The clothes never get wet enough to rinse it out, and the result is you will have them melted and stuck to everything in the load. This makes no sense to me, as it goes through a wash cycle and a spin cycle and they never wash or rinse off. To me, this says a lot about how well it cleans clothes. Personally, I wouldn't recommend this set. I paid almost $2k with the protection plan, and they are BY FAR not worth that much. Also, if you are buying from Home Depot, when they tell you that the protection plan is an extended warranty, IT'S NOT!! It starts the day of purchase, not when the manufacturers warranty ends, even if it takes 3 weeks to deliver them. The first year the set is covered by LG. So basically, Home Depot makes money for that first year of the extra protection plan for doing NOTHING. I would still recommend getting the extra protection plan, however. This set doesn't seem nearly stable enough to make it more than a year, if that long, without having problems. I just think it's shady that they make money for doing nothing the first year. The Home Depot plan covers exactly the same things as the LG manufacturer warranty, by the way. **Update** 4/24/14. I have been using this set for several months. The point in using the HE set is it is supposed to use less water and detergent. It was recommended I only use 1 TBS of soap per load. LOL! Nope. I have to use a full cup or the clothes come out smelly and dirty. Because it uses so little water, you will end up having to use an extra rinse, sometimes 2, as the clothes will come out spotted with fabric softener. Having to rinse the load 3 times is hardly saving water!! As an added bonus?? The washer says it is uneven 4 out of 5 loads. According to the tub, a level AND the repairman it is level. I have to open the lid and rearrange what is inside sometimes 6 or 7 times trying to even it out before the washer will finish the cycle. It is not uncommon for a single load to take 3 hours to wash when this happens. The dryer has stained and ruined our comforter with what looks like black grease that won't come out. I have called Home Depot NUMEROUS times trying to do something about the wasted $2k for a washer and dryer that are horrible. The most they will do is send out a "tech" to see if the set has mechanical problems. DO NOT BUY THIS SET!!! For the money, you could by 2 sets of the old style washer with the agitator and I GUARANTEE you will be happier.

PURCHASED THIS UNIT IN DECEMBER 2012. THE FIRST TIME I USED THIS WASHER IT WAS CLEAR FROM WATCHING THROUGH THE CLEAR LID THAT THERE WAS NOT ENOUGH WATER IN THE TUB TO ALLOW THE CLOTHES TO TURN OVER. i HAVE WATCHED THE ENTIRE WASH CYCLE OF THIS MACHINE MANY TIMES AND IT IS 95% CONSISTENTLY INSUFFICIENT WATER TO CLEAN PROPERLY. SOMETIMES THE SAME DRIP OF MUSTARD WILL BE THERE AFTER THE CYCLE COMPLETES. iT IS THE SAME WITH ALL OF THE OTHER HEAVILY SOILED ITEMS. i HAVE TRIED TO CLEAN ON OTHER CYCLE SETTINGS WITH SIMILAR RESULTS. TODAY I HAD MY THIRD VISIT FROM AN LG TECH. THE FIRST TIME THE INDEPENDENT TECHNICIAN, AFTER BEING ON THE PHONE WITH THE LG FACTORY TECHNICAL CENTER, COMPLETING ELECTRONIOC OVER-THE-PHONE DIAGNOSTICS, CONCLUDED THERE WAS A PROBLEM AND ORDERED A CIRCUIT BOARD THAT CONTROLED THE LOAD SENSOR WHICH CONTROLS THE AMOUNT OF WATER ENTERING THE TUB. TWO WEEKS LATER THE PART ARRIVED AND WAS INSTALLED. WHEN I STARTED USING THE MACHINE AGAIN, THE PROBLEM SEEMED TO BE BETTER. WITHIN SEVERAL MONTHS IT WAS BACK TO LOW WATER ISSUES. A SECOND CALL TO LG SERIVCE PRODUCED ANOTHER INDEPENDENT TECH WHO CONCLUDED, WITH THE HELP OF THE LG FACTORY, THAT THE SENSOR ON THE MOTOR/PUMP WAS DEFECTIVE. ONCE AGAIN A PART WAS ORDERED AND SOME WEEKS LATER THEY RETURNED TO INSTALL IT. SOME TIME PASSED AND THE MACHINE STOPPED CLEANING THE CLOTHES DUE TO LOW WATER. HOWEVER THIS LAST VISIT WAS DIFFERENT. THIS WAS NOT A LOCAL INDEPENDENT TECH LIKE THE OTHERS. THIS WAS AN 'OFFICIAL' LG TECH FROM OUT OF TOWN. HE DIDN'T CONDUCT ANY DIAGNOSTICS. HE WATCHED ALONG WITH ME THE SAME LOW WATER PROBLEM AS THE INDEPENDET TECHS AND HE SAW THE UNWASHED RESULTS OF MY LAST LOAD. HE HAD SEVERAL EXCUSES AS TO WHY THIS WAS HAPPENING, MOST OF WHICH HE BLAMED ON THE FEDERAL GOVERNMENT'S ENERGY SAVING REGULATIONS. HE CONCLUDED THAT THERE WAS "NOTHING THAT COULD BE DONE TO REMEDY THE PROBLEM" AND HE SUGGESTED USING THE "WATER PLUS" BUTTON WHICH IN MY CASE ADDS AN INSIGNIFICANT AMOUNT OF ADDITIONAL WATER TO THE TUB. WHEN I TOLD HIM THAT HIS 'SOLUTION' WAS NOT ACCEPTABLE AND THAT I INTENDED TO GET LG TO TAKE THE MACHINE BACK, HE SAID "LG WON'T TAKE THE MACHINE BACK". I QUICKLY MADE A CALL TO LG FACTORY SERVICE CENTER AND SPOKE TO A SUPERVISOR BY THE NAME OF CALVIN WHO CONFIRMED WHAT THE TECH HAD OFFERED TO ME. ACCORDING TO LG, THERE IS NOTHING WROMNG WITH THE UNIT AND THEY WILL NOT TAKE IT BACK. I WILL BE DOING RESEARCH AS TO WHETHER OR NOT LEMON LAWS APPLY TO WASHING MACHINES. MY ADVICE TO ANY POTENTIAL BUYERS OF LG PRODUCTS INCLUDING THIS ONE IS "BUYER BEWARE". THIS IS NOT AN HONORABLE COMPANY. DO NOT PURCHASE THIS PRODUCT OR ANY OF THE WATER SAVING TOP LOADING LG WASHERS THAT MAY USE THE SAME DEFECTIVE PARTS. BAD BAD BUSINESS. PS:IF ANYTHING AS BENIGN AS A QUARTER FALLS OUT OF A PANTS POCKET, IT MAY MAKE SWISS CHEESE OUT OF A PERFECTLY GOOD (IN MY CASE NEW) PAIR OF BLUE JEANS (TWICE).

Fridge arrived well packaged with foam around entire unit inside cardboard box. Box was skidded and banded so it wouldn't move and had a cardboard cone on top that said no stacking and prevented further stacking during shipment. Fridge is being used in our finished basement where we have cabinets and countertop sunk back into wall. Fridge sits neatly between 2 cabinets and underneath the countertop. I have less than the 1/5" recommended space on both sides available for venting so I put a grille in the back wall to allow the fridge to draw cooling air from the unfinished storage space on the backside of the wall. It is imperative to allow enough space around the unit for venting purposes or you will burn out the compressor prematurely. Assembly was easy. Just had to tighten some screws to get the handle on. Had to adjust the leveling legs to get it to fit flush within undercounter cabinet space. This was quick and easy. I just had to initially loosen with some pliers and then turn by hand. Rubber boots on legs helped avoid any scratching on my laminate flooring as I slid into place. This is designed for can storage so it does not lend itself as nicely to beer and water bottles. The shelving can be changed to different levels so I moved one of the shelves to allow a layer of standing bottles to go in while still having plenty of can storage. After allowing to sit for a day (compressor oil needs to settle), I turned it on. I set to lowest setting of 38F to see if and how quickly it would reach set point. Cooled to set point, down from ambient temperature, within 1 hour . Fluctuates regularly by +/- 1 or 2 degrees. Stocked with 12 cans and bottles and it quickly came down to setpoint in under 20 minutes. I imagine that if you packed with room temperature cans it might take an hour or so to come down to temperature. The inside light is a fluorescent blue, similar to the controller lights, and is very stylish. Light is either on all the time or off all the time. It does not come on when you open the door. I will likely only turn it on when entertaining since it is kind of cool looking. The stainless steel door, handle and front return grille along with the glass door are very stylish. The settings can quickly and easily be toggled between F and C. The major reasons for picking this fridge when doing my research were; - Correct size for my under counter installation - Fully viewable glass door - Large 148 can storage volume - Front air intake to accommodate under counter installation - SOUND, SOUND, SOUND The reviews on this item mostly stated that the noise was low. Since this was going into an area where we would be listening to music, entertaining, or most importantly watching tv/movies on our projector screen, I did not want an obtrusive noise cycling on and off. Although not completely quiet, and how could it be since there is a compressor that needs to run, it is very quiet. I am very happy with how little noise is coming off of this thing. I might have heard it cycle on once during my 4 or 5 hours of watching football and I have no doubt it cycled more than that while I was down there. With nothing else on in the room I can hear a low hum. It is not the cheapest fridge ($649) in the marketplace but it met all of my criteria and was well worth the investment. The only remaining question is the durability. Has only been running for 1 week so we'll see how it holds up over time. UPDATE 12/15/14: Over 1 year in and still working great. UPDATE 3/10/17: Over 3 years in and still working great. Apparently I got the only good one ever made based on all the other reviews or I'm the only one that installed it correctly.