Datasets:

Siki-77

/

Amazon_category_polarity

like 0

I'll first justify my rating here, before giving a detailed account of our ordeal. - One star removed for GE being a company that treats its customers badly - One star removed for Induction Range not being widely used in the US. (See ramifications below.) - Two stars removed for this being a relatively higher end model of GE Induction Range. (Again, see ramifications below.) The following is a simplified outline of events. Most phone calls were not fruitful and therefore not mentioned here. We bought this range in early Nov. 2013, and it was delivered in late Nov. It broke down in less than a month. In the sense that it was totally dead. When we contacted the seller for returns, we were told that happy for us, the range was covered by GE's warranty. In other words, we couldn't. We contacted GE for repairs. The first time slot a repair person was available was in three days. When the repairman came, he read the code on the range, and went to his van to check. Eventually he came back with bad news: not only he didn't have the part needed, it was on back order until January. He said that we'd be offered a replacement unit. But we had to call their 800 number ourselves. It took another day for GE to "research" the case, in which time they verified that the part needed for repair was indeed not available, and the back order would be filled no earlier than mid-January. They offered us a replacement unit with a different model number. While on the phone, we did a quick research, and found that the replacement model was not available on Amazon, and on GE's website it was listed for $700 less than the model we bought. We asked for compensation of the price difference, and were told by the agent that day (Kaitlin) that she could only arrange for the replacement, and we had to wait until the agent whom dealt with our case first (Angela) to discuss monetary compensation. Considering that without the replacement we were set to go through the Christmas season without a working range, we agreed to have the replacement. The replacement came in less than a week (i.e., we were without a range for more than 10 days total) and worked fine since then. We liked the fact that it heats very quickly. We didn't like the fact that we had to replace all our cookware, but are resigned to it. Because the price we paid on Amazon Marketplace was less than the list price on GE's website, we also tried to find the unit on the Internet. It was available for about $700 less than what we paid for this unit. In January, 2014, when we were in contact with Angela, she told us that GE guideline was that a replacement unit only has to be functionally equivalent; no monetary compensation was given. When we protested, she (yes, Angela herself) reviewed the case and found it totally satisfactory. She even sent us a letter to that effect. In February, we complained through NYS AG's office. A different woman, Kelly J------, took the case. After some days of research, she came up with an offer of $200, plus a one-year extended warranty. I did not think the offer fair, and rejected it. In March, we complained through BBB Kentucky. Again, Kelly J------ got the case, and replied that she made the offer of $200 plus one year extended warranty, which I rejected. So now let me briefly explain my rationale for the rating: - GE treated us badly. You could judge that from the fact above. I do not have experience with other brands because of the no-return policy, but I couldn't imagine another company treating their customers worse than this. - Induction Range might be more troublesome to repair than other ranges, due to its unpopularity. The repairman came with a van full of parts and tools, and yet the parts needed to repair our range was not on it. Or anywhere in this country, for that matter. My guess is that the van did contain parts for repairing other, more popular, types of ranges. - Lastly, if you had to get a GE appliance of any kind, get the cheapest one you could find! Our experience suggests that for economic reasons GE would only provide replacement units of like functionality but of the cheapest price.

UPDATE: The top drawer has failed. Fisher Paykel is being difficult to deal with. The unit has a 2 year warranty. The top draw failed within the 2 year period. However at first we thought it was just a blocked line. Made sure that it was clear, called FP and tried some other things with them on the phone. Nothing worked. So they said to find a local repair shop that would be willing to work on it. We live in a small rural town and no one would work on it. So after a few days calling around, I called back to FP and they said they would find someone and call me back. But that was over a week ago and they never did. Today I call and I'm told I'm out of warranty (by 16 days). But in fact the unit was ordered 2 years and 16 days ago, but due to shipping and the time it takes to get a tech to install it, we are w/in the warranty period. Also the unit started this failing to drain or slow draining over a month ago with is well w/in the 2 year warranty. But FP has essentially said tough and they are not going to honor the warranty. Original review: Okay I really fell in love with this dishwasher based on it's design. However there are some caveats with it. First we love the two separate drawers and it's very quiet. Having two chambers means we'll never have 2 day old stuff in the dishwasher or dishes on the counter or sink waiting for the dishwasher to be empty. These are the reasons we bought it. However, where it falls down is cleaning. If all you ever clean is plates, stemware and cups like they show in the pictures, it's great. However if you have pitchers, mixing bowls, bakeware, or something like a blender, it's really a challenge to get them into the drawer and still be able to get the other items clean. It only has one spinning arm at the bottom. Nothing else. This means if you put your bowls, pitchers or bakeware in there, it's pretty much all you can clean because there is no way the water can get to the 2nd tier. I like the adjustable side tiers, however they do not stick out far enough. And I don't really care for the angled floor rack. I love the utensils basket with the closing lid, but it's small and does not hold very many items. (They do give you two, one for the top drawer and one for the bottom drawer. I love the screen on the bottom, however it's very difficult to get out and kinda yucky to do it. You have to pull the utensil tray, and then this little floor piece has to come out, and the you have to wiggle around the strainer/filter to get it out. Not at all well designed. I love the controls on the door, however the childlock is not very effective. Too easy for the child to figure out and a bit of a pain for the parents. I would prefer some sort of code or something instead of just holding the button down. Love the detergent dispenser. You use about 1/4 as much detergent as you do (per drawer) in a normal dishwasher. The bottom rack is really hard to get out. Of course that is a rare situation, but it's a pain if you have to. Also we bought the tall model, but there is still a 1.5" gap at the top. The installer said they'd have to get some wood trim to match our cabinets to cover it. The one we took out was a generic big box $400 special and it fit the space perfectly. I don't understand why this one does not. Like I said, if all you wash in the washer is plates, cups and stemware, it'll be great. And once you get used to running a drawer with just 3 or 4 items it works well. But it really does take time to get used to the new loading methods.

We purchased this range because it had all the features we wanted. High power burner, large oven, 5 burners and more. What we got was and is a nightmare. After about a month, the LED display(which controls everything except the burners) goes blank. We called Customer Service (CS) and they informed us to "just reset the breaker". Which we did, and the display came back. We were happy until it happened again about 2 weeks later. We did the reset, but again it happened again not much later on. We called CS back and they told us that this range had to have it's own circuit breaker and it had to be a time delay. This is a must. Yet it does not say that in the installation manual. It does recommend it but does not require it. We inquired about a time delay breaker, and were informed by Square D that their breakers are time delay. So we took the time to wire in an electrical 120v outlet just for this range. We figured we were now good. NOPE, a few weeks later the LED went out again. So much for CS advise. We called again to CS and were told that there was nothing more they could do. Yes we had the range for 4 months and under warranty and this CS rep tells us they will do nothing to help us. WE reset the breaker again and again and again over the next couple of months. Then again call CS, and again they tell us there is nothing they can do. We lose count as to how many times we reset this breaker. Finally in Jan, being totally irate, we call CS again and find a rep that tells us she will call a local authorized service center and they will come out to fix it. A repair man comes out, tells us we have a bad circuit board and orders a new one. A week later, the board comes in and installed. The next day we notice the oven light is not working. I replace the bulb but that does not help. Light will not work. Call local factory rep. He comes out looks at it and calls KitchenAid. They tell him that it must be a bad board. He orders a new one and when it comes he installs it. Problem does not go away. So a third board is ordered over night and it is installed. All is well. This was last Friday. Today 6 days later. The center burner will not light. Igniter works but it will not light. Waited for 15 sec. but no gas coming. 2 hours later I try it again, and it works. 4 hours later, it stops working. Called local authorized repair guy back to come and fix it. He will be here tomorrow. Also called KitchenAid CS. told them with all the issues we had and all the calls we had made to them in the past 7 months, that we want a replacement range. They said that the problems are fixable so their is nothing they can do. Also they tell us that they are not aware of what we are talking about when it comes to all the calls we made. They have no records of our calling them before except once. We asked about the 7 to 8 calls we made previous to this one. And they tell us they have no record of that. The factory authorized repair people told us we have a lemon, but it is up to KitchenAid to replace it. KitchenAid told us that we had to go back to the store that sold it to us, and that is not KitchenAid's problem. I told them that the store we bought it from didn't make the product, you did, and it is defective. We are still arguing with them.. Please save yourself tons of headaches and stay away from KitchenAid ranges. And remember, KitchenAid Maytag, Fridgitaire, Amana are all Whirlpool subdivisions.

I absolutely LOVE this Panda Washing machine. 3 years later and its still going strong, a little workhorse that never disappoints. I wanted to maximize and prolong its life, so watched several youtube videos for any pointers. I read in the manual NOT to run water through the spinner when its spinning, but I saw the inlet hose and was confused, so I called Panda, who told me if water is placed into the spin section, it can seep into the motor and it will no longer run, and that it was a product flaw thats damaged many units. PLEASE DO NOT RUN WATER THROUGH THE SPINNER, or do so at your own risk. Here are some tips Ive used if this can help anyone. 1) Even though it has a strong pump, I decided to drain the water into a 5 lb bucket I keep on the floor next to the washer, then manually dump it into the sink. When I first tried the washer, I extended the drain hose to the sink, but found it struggled when draining the last of the water. I don't feel its much of an inconvenience to take the extra step of using the bucket if it puts less pressure on the pump and extends its life. I added a picture below. Also, I attached the drain hose to the bucket with a strap so it doesnt go flying off I learned the hard way when I got water all over the floor because I didn't initially secure it. I cut 2 holes in the top of the bucket to hold a small strap that holds the hose in place. It was not hard at all to cut through the bucket with an exacto-knife. 2) The inlet hose did not fit my kitchen faucet, so I am using a large soup pot that actually works better for me. I immediately start filling the pot while I am setting up my washer, separating my loads, etc, so by the time Im ready to start my wash, the pot is full. Also, I am able to re-fill the pot for the rinse cycle and have it ready to go while the wash is going, so I wasn't too disappointed that the hose didn't fit my faucet. 3) I find 9 minutes for a wash is sufficient. After the wash, I place the load into the spinner to spin out most of the soap, while I drain the wash bin, then repeat with the 2nd and the laundry. I don't drain the rinse water since I feel its still fairly clean and use it for my next load and repeat the process. I only drain the dirty soapy water after each wash. 4) I agree with everyone else that the lint catcher is useless. I bought a floating lint catcher for $1.99 at the dollar store. Its in the photo below if that can help anyone. I couldn't believe how much lint it catches! 5) Out of curiosity, I took the plastic backing off the unit to see the inside (when it was unplugged of course). The drain hose is secured in place with a strong hardened silicone gel that was impressive. I checked for leaks and there were none. Not too crazy about the actual hoses themselves they are thin and flimsy, but theyve lasted 3 years so far with no issues after constant use. I can quickly wash a load of clothes. The wash takes 9 minutes, then I spin the clothes to get the soap out for not very long, approx. 1-2 minutes, then return it to the washing bin with fresh rinse water for 3-4 minutes, then finally back to the spinner for 2 minutes max. I find 2 minutes is enough to leave the clothes 80% dry, unless of course, you have jeans or thick sweaters, although I have never found the need to spin the full 5 minutes. I absolutely love it and recommend it and hope this review can help others.

BUYER BEWARE! I purchased this product. It arrived BROKEN (as well as the Sonya dryer, which ALSO ARRIVED BROKEN). I have phoned the toll-free number and received the sweet and sincere-sounding outgoing message requesting the caller to leave a message and someone will return the call. No ... no one EVER returned my calls. "Sonya" and I have exchanged MANY emails through Amazon, and the Company simply apologizes profusely but does not address the problem of the broken products ... except to say "return them." I kept the shipping in case I would need it, so I was prepared to return both products, BUT each crate requires professional (plastic?) strapping to hold the top of the box to the bottom (more like a platform) of the box. I have no way to STRAP the shipping cartons together, and I have no way to transport the machines and shipping crates to a professional shipper. Sadly, the expense to professionally strap the cartons falls to ME and is not covered by "Sonya." Additionally, I based on my experience I do not trust this seller any farther than I can throw it -- How do I know they will ACTUALLY refund my $750? Also, I have found ZERO "authorized" repair persons ... in the entire United States. The authorized repair persons are in CANADA, not in the U.S. BOTTOM LINE: "Sonya" has taken $750 of my money, provided me with two broken machines, will not return my phone calls, has no authorized repair persons so I can maintain their warranty (rendering the warranty USELESS if you live in the USA), and I am unable to ship the machines BACK to "Sonya" because to do so I would have to HIRE a trucker to transport the machines/cartons to a professional shipper PLUS PAY for each carton to be STRAPPED together (the top strapped to the bottom "platform"). RETURN SHIPPING NOTE: The seller CLAIMS that it will pay for the "postage" expense to return faulty merchandise, but what they DO NOT TELL YOU is that the BUYER PAYS for transporting and re-packaging (strapping) the faulty merchandise ... which is VERY espensive. The Amazon problem-solvers "can only say that the Company is willing to refund your expense if you will kindly return the merchandise." I contacted my attorney about being RIPPED-OFF by an international company. His response? Legal attempts to recover my financial loss will cost me MUCH MORE than what I paid for the merchandise. MY ADVICE BASED ON MY EXPERIENCE IS THIS: - DO NOT PURCHASE FROM SONYA. - THERE ARE NO AUTHORIZED SERVICE REPS IN THE USA SO IF YOU CAN FIND SOMEONE (UNAUTHORIZED IN THE US) TO REPAIR THE PRODUCT, THE WARRANTY IS INVALIDATED. - IF YOU GET BROKEN MACHINES, YOU MUST PAY TRANSPORT AND PROFESSIONAL STRAPPING IN ORDER TO SEND THE MACHINES BACK. - SONYA's EMAILS DO NOT ADDRESS MY QUESTIONS OR PROBLEMS, THEY GUSH WITH SO-SORRYs AND RECOMMENDATIONS BUT THAT'S IT. - The seller is not in the United States and is not a U.S. company, so taking INTERNATIONAL legal action to recover your purchase price and shipping is likely to cost several times what you have already lost, AND your chances of successful INTERNATIONAL recovery of your funds is practically ZERO. GOOD LUCK TO HAPPY BUYERS: I have read the positive reviews of these products, and made my purchase based upon them. Apparently, there are buyers who received merchandise in working order, and good for them ... but ... when the machine breaks, I wish them luck in finding an appliance repair person who is either "Sonya authorized" or even not "authorized" but willing to attempt repair. I have contacted several major appliance repair service companies in my area and each refused to attempt repair because the internal workings of the machines (Sonya washer and Sonya dryer) are not standard in the U.S. and for that reason the repair service reps have no experience or knowledge of "where to even begin."

I've owned this range for about a year now. I was nervous about the purchasing decision because of the scant and often negative reviews on this range. After a year of use I'm still thrilled with it. In person, the range is great looking and seems solidly built. Nothing about it feels flimsy to me. Of course it's gorgeous. Size wise, this range is not as deep as other high end options. For me, that's great because it fits nicely into our smaller kitchen, and doesn't jut out from our countertops like a larger range would. The oven size has been fine for me, though I don't cook a lot of turkeys or larger items. I do have one baking sheet that I have to rotate 90 degrees to fit in the oven, as the oven is not deep enough to accommodate it length wise. I saw lots of complaints about the oven, especially temperature consistency and uneven baking. I've been quite happy with it. First, you _need_ to get a good oven thermometer. I grabbed a good magnetic one and stuck it to the side of the oven wall. There is no electronic thermostat on this, not even a light that goes out when the oven is at temp, so you will not have any way of knowing when the oven is at temp unless you have a thermometer. I suspect that a lot of folks' complaints are because they put things in early, when the oven wasn't at temp. I usually bake anything delicate on the middle/top rack, if you bake on the very bottom rack things can get over done on the bottom, but I think that's par for the course especially with gas. The convection setting is great. The burners are awesome. The controls are very precise. It's easy to dial in the right amount of heat. The large double burner puts out plenty of heat. I use it often with a round bottom wok and it's perfect for that. I don't use the double burner as much as I thought I would. When cranked all the way up the flames are pretty wide, and they come out beyond the sides of all but my largest stock pot. I find the second largest burner is the best for medium sized pots and pans, if high heat is necessary. The beautiful brass burner and "button" will tarnish over time. I've not tried using brass cleaner on them yet. I suspect that would bring back their original shine. It seems to be mostly soot that's accumulated over time. As some others have mentioned, when the oven is running a fan kicks on and blows warm air out the front of the stove. This doesn't bother me, in fact my wife loves standing in front of the oven when it's cool out. It's never gotten hot to the touch (on the front). There is a vent in the back of the range though that gets quite hot when the oven is running. Not a real issue for me, but something to be aware of. I really appreciate the simplicity of this range. The thermocouples on the burners are a great feature. It's only happened a couple of times, but when a burner went out and I didn't notice, I've never smelled gas. It shuts off the gas flow very quickly. Plus the whole range top will operate safely without electricity. Overall, I'm super happy with it. I'd definitely purchase it again if I had to make the decision over. I would caution anyone buying it for the looks to consider other options as well. This range offers a lot of control and precision, but it also takes a bit more attention to detail while you're cooking than other options out there. Depending on how you like to cook, you may be much happier with something that has digital temp control, self cleaning, timers, etc. Despite it's good looks, and hefty price tag, this is really a no-frills piece of kitchen equipment and could feel like a step down if you're used to those bells and whistles.

About 10 months ago, the original icemaker stopped working in my ~15 year old Kenmore refridgerator. The icemaker was labeled Kenmore p/n WR30X0307. I typed in p/n WR30X0307 on Amazon and found it available for $84.25 from North American HVAC. I ordered it and received it a few days later. The part number on the paperwork was p/n WR30X10093. I researched it on the internet and found that Kenmore had replaced p/n WR30X0307 with WR30X10093. I didn't think much of it since the icemaker seemed like it would fit / work, and it did install and (somewhat) function. At the time, I thought I had received an equivalent Kenmore part. The icemaker never quite worked like the original one: - The ice cubes were sometimes ejected before completely frozen, and cracked open / were hollow after landing in the ice tray - When the water valve was triggered by the icemaker to fill the ice cube tray, my water valve occasionally made a sputtering sound like it was being cycled on / off several times during the file process - Eventually the intermittent water valve triggering stopped, and the water value was triggered for a longer. The ice cubes were larger (more water = larger ice cubes) which was nice, but sometimes the ice cube tray was overfilled, causing water to drip into the ice cube tray and freeze. - Overfilling the ice cube tray gradually got worse, and was so bad that the bottom of the ice tray was a sheet of ice. The last straw was the overfilling was so bad, all newly formed ice cubes quickly from to the bottom of the ice tray and water was even running out of the ice tray and dripping down the side of my freezer before it froze. So, it was time to replace this sketchy ice cube maker in less than one years time. I went back to Amazon to find another and was reading some reviews that some replacement icemakers were not original equipment manufacturer (OEM). It turns out that some companies are producing a form / fit / functional product under the same part number. I went back and looked at the icemaker purchased from North American HVAC, and there is no Kenmore label on it. In fact, there is no product label on it at all. And then I realized even though the icemaker says By Kenmore on Amazon, it was not actually by Kenmore and was some equivalent counterfeit part made by another company. At that point, I was done with trying to find this on Amazon from distributors and went to Sears. I was able to find p/n WR30X10093 on the Sears website. It was even in stock at a Sears near my home. I went to pick it up, and while it cost a bit more, $143, I am much more comfortable purchasing an OEM product if it costs 50% more. Oh, and this one does have the Kenmore label on it. After installation, there is no sketchy performance either and after a couple days the performance is the same as my original WR30X0307. My complaints are the following: 1) The part received from North American HVAC doesnt have a product label showing the true manufacturer. 2) North American HVAC should not show this product as By Kenmore on Amazon. This part looks different than the Kenmore part I received at Sears. There is no screw to adjust to the ice cube size and there is an on / off switch on the Kenmore part I received. The product shown by North American HVAC on Amazon is not a genuine Kenmore part. This is a deceptive business practice. 3) You should not claim to be selling one p/n (WR30X0307) and ship another (WR30X10093). This should be clear at the time of purchase and not up to the buyer to figure out on their own. 4) The counterfeit part sold has poor performance in my case. It is disturbing that counterfeit icemakers are being manufactured (and distributed) using the OEM part number. This is a fraudulent and deceptive practice.

We purchased this refrigerator in February 2015 (after out 5 year old Samsung died), without being able to find very much information on the product or a comparison with the similar DCS refrigerator made by Fisher & Paykel's sister company. On the exterior, the DCS handles are thicker, more robust looking and come in a choice of rounded or squared design. The F& P handles are thinner and square - they are very easy to clean because, unlike Samsung refrigerators, the handles are not curved, creating tight spaces. The exterior panels of both the F& P and the DCS are a smudge-free stainless that cleans very easily with soap and water - unlike our previous Samsung or our Bosch appliances. We love the layout! The F&P refrigerator has two glass shelves which slide out very easily for cleaning. There are 14 slots for positioning the shelves, making the interior highly customizable. Unlike most brands on the market, the shelves are one solid piece - so the entire shelf is usable and there is no risk of something falling over and spilling between the shelves. The two fruit and vegetable bins and the two chiller bins, fully remove from the refrigerator for food prep and cleaning, as does the plastic shelf that these bins sit in. The bins are dishwasher safe. Strangely, the water filter sits OUTSIDE the refrigerator (the DCS model has an interior water filter), so we were able to set it up in the basement and feed the line up through the floor. If you don't put the filter in the basement, you will need a spot to hang or sit the filter next to the refrigerator. The external water filter increases usable space in the refrigerator and makes for easy filter changing. Talking about water, both the F & P and the DCS models have water available in the exterior of the right refrigerator door. Unlike all other refrigerator brands, the water is not recessed, making filling any size container or glass very easy. We routinely fill an electric kettle, Kuerig water tank, pitchers and glasses straight from the door without any issues - unlike our old Samsung which could only take certain sized glasses. The F & P and the DCS freezers are similar in layout: a top sliding shelf with three clear, removable bins and an open bottom drawer. The bins can be completely removed to allow trays to be stored. The bins are dishwasher-safe. If the ice bin is removed, the ice-maker will not function until the bin is replaced. The ice-maker is extremely slow compared with our previous refrigerators; it took several days to fill the ice bin. If additional ice is required, one of the larger bins can be placed under the ice-maker, which is a nice feature. A small ice scoop is included with the ice bucket and, despite its size and shape, works very well for scoping enough ice for a glass (for larger amounts, the entire bin full of ice can be removed). The F&P model has an up-down push button temperature change system on the interior right wall. Unfortunately, there is no way to set a specific temperature, unlike the digital DCS model (which allows temperature changes using an exterior panel) or our old Samsung. We would have liked to be able to set a specific temperature instead of having to guess and make incremental changes over a period of days. The reason this refrigerator gets four stars is simply because the F & P is extremely noisy. There are frequent loud popping, cracking sounds emanating from the refrigerator as the components expand and contract. This is the noisiest appliance we have ever owned and, 11 months later, we are still bothered by the noises. Unfortunately, we have no idea whether the DCS would have been made of superior materials, resulting in less noise - but if it is, the $500 higher pricetag would have been worth it. Overall, the manufacturer really thought out the design of this refrigerator and we highly recommend it - but take a look at the DCS model if it is available before making a decision.

I did tons of research on dishwashers before we made a purchase. Prior to this purchase we had had a GE nautilus portable dishwasher for 7 years or so and gave it recently to our oldest son for their apartment. One thing we hated about that one was that it redeposited food quite regularly if dishes weren't fairly clean beforehand. For literally 2 months or so, i researched dishwashers, everything from the cheapest ones, to the most expensive ones! Options, no options, etc etc. We finally decided to purchase this one because of all of the options; hard food disposal AND a self-cleaning filter, TONS of jets including 4 "bottle" jets which are just amazing. No more will you have tall glasses/bottles that aren't clean! It has jets above the silverware holder that constantly dump water over the silverware. Stainless tub will/should last a lifetime. No visible heating element, so you can put plastic on the bottom. It does have heated dry though, it's a hidden element with a fan. Quiet, can we say quiet!?! I didn't know dishwashers could be this quiet. Honestly if there is any conversation in the kitchen while it's running, or any fan running, then you absolutely cannot hear it! The bottle jets are honestly the loudest part but they don't spray very long unless you select that option. It has a leak pan/detector and if it detects a leak underneath it will immediately drain and shut off while setting off an alarm alerting you of a leak. We had that happen because we didn't get the water inlet tight enough at first. I know this is a built-in dishwasher, but we had a portable dishwasher that had went bad that we'd acquired and so I gutted the case and put this one in it along with a new hose assembly. So now, we have a top of the line portable dishwasher which is better than any portable dishwasher that the stores sell anywhere! We have had this thing a couple months now and use it every day or two. We have yet to have any food get redeposited. The filter literally does stop all of the food particles and then everytime it drains then it first backflushes the filter so that any food particles it has captured gets flushed down the drain which is easy to see with the portable hookup. It then drains the rest of the water. I do remove the filter every few uses to check and only once or twice did i decide to wash it because it had a few things that didn't flush out completely, but that was me being paranoid, it honestly wasn't that bad. We use the "accusense" cycle which is the automatic cycle where it stops several times to detect the food particles in the water and will automatically adjust the cycle time/ # of rinses according to how dirty the dishes are. This thing does have pretty much every option including extra rinse, rinse only, heated dry, stainless tub, jets upon jets upon jets. accusense, hard food "pirannah" disposal, self cleaning filter, drip pan with leak detector, top drawer is adjustable, adjustable/removable tines on both drawers, QUIET, sanitation cycle, etc etc. I have never written this detailed of a review about anything online before, but this dishwasher just keeps on impressing us upon every use. I have it running a cycle as I type this! It doesn't use much water at all either. I'm not kidding you when I tell you that filling one side of our kitchen sink just once uses more water than an entire cycle. Add rinse water to that and then the dishwasher's water usage is even more minute when compared to hand washing. If loaded correctly, this thing will hold 16 place settings. I have loaded it down so much more than our older GE portable and everything comes out crystal clean, whether it be plastic, stainless, glassware, silverware, ceramic, etc! I know that it's not cheap, that was our hesitation too, but we are so glad we bit the bullet and bought it! If you have any questions about this dishwasher, please ask them as I might have an answer for you!

On March 16, 2016, I called Electrolux to request a warranty repair of my then 10-week old dishwasher. The phone rep asked numerous questions, including what, exactly, was wrong with my dishwasher. She then instructed me how to try to "reset" the dishwasher (which failed), and then she scheduled what I thought was a repair appointment, five days later on March 21. The rep asked me whether I preferred a repair time window of 8:00 a.m. to Noon, or Noon to 5:00. I said I preferred morning as I had an afternoon appointment. The rep then told me that Whitman Appliance Repair would contact me the day before to tell me my specific appointment time. The day before, sure enough Whitman called, only to tell me that would see me between 10:00 a.m. and 2:00 p.m. I said that Electrolux scheduled me for 8:00 a.m. to Noon. Whitman said they could come between 10:00 and 2:00, or they could reschedule for a later date. So at the last minute, I had to schedule an entire vacation day off work, and reschedule my afternoon meeting. On March 21, Whitman arrived as scheduled. The repair technician walked into my house, looked at my dishwasher, and said, "what's wrong with it?" I said, "didn't Electrolux tell you?" The technician said, "they don't tell us nothing." I explained the problem. He then said, "you need a new blah blah blah" (a part). "We'll have to order it, it will arrive in 3 to 10 business days. Then we will call you to schedule the repair." He then took a few pictures of my dishwasher, including a picture of the serial number. He was in my house for all of about 30 seconds. I said, you mean I wasted a whole day's vacation so you could ask me the exact same question that I already answered for the Electrolux phone rep?" He said, we'll, I needed to get the serial number." I said, "I needed to tell the phone rep the serial number before she would schedule the repair!" He said, "I also needed to take pictures of your dishwasher to document any pre-existing damage, so you can't sue us to fix something that wasn't our fault." Great! I blew an entire vacation day so that Electrolux and Whitman Appliance Repair could cover their butts. Finally, on March 29 -- 19 days after I called Electrolux, I got to schedule yet another vacation day and my dishwasher was finally repaired. The complete lack of even basic communication between Electrolux and Whitman and the long (half-day) appointment windows for repair convince me that Electrolux and Whitman Appliance have absolutely no regard for customer service. I will think long and hard before I ever buy another Electrolux appliance. NEW TOPIC: The dishwasher I replaced was a very low-end model. The Electrolux was, at $888 retail, what I thought was a mid-to-high range model. It has a stainless steel interior and a third rack, which I liked. However, I learned the expensive way that a more expensive dishwasher does NOT clean my dishes any better than a cheap one. The ONLY real difference between my old dishwasher and the new Electrolux, is that the Electrolux is quieter when running. However, the noise level of my old dishwasher never bothered me or my family. Or bedrooms and TV room are separate floors from the kitchen, so we rarely heard the old dishwasher. And even if we were sitting nearby, we could converse or play music or do whatever without ever being bothered by the dishwasher. If I ever have to buy another dishwasher, I'll choose a cheap one (and very lucky NOT an Electrolux).

Let me preface by saying I only had this fridge for a few days so I hope I don't face electronics issues or otherwise. I'm in love with this fridge. The LED lighting makes every opening a moment of pure bliss. It is so spacious ! My other fridge was of similar dimensions, although a little less deep, and a side by side. What a difference 3 cu ft and a different design make ! I love that I don't have to bend over to see what's in the bottom shelves. Everything I had in my previous fridge fit and there's space left ! We chose this model over the one that has a "flex zone" drawer because we felt that flex zone drawer was more of a gimmick and was not bringing much for the price difference. To the contrary, the one with the flex zone had a smaller door-in-door space and no deli/meat drawer at all - meaning the flex zone really would have ended up a meat drawer. And the compartment separation is just a physical mark - not a separation of cold zones. To boot, the bottom inner drawer of this model is also a flex zone... smaller, but big enough for our purposes. We also chose Samsung over LG based on the various reviews on different sites (Amazon, the Home Depot, Lowes etc) because Samsung seemed to have less lemons and electronic issues. Fingers crossed. Delivery was great, the drivers were in the time scheduled. They had to jump through hoops to get the fridge through the door - even had to remove the doors - they were really helpful. Fridge was undamaged. There is a bit of assembly that you have to do yourself (handles, adjusting doors so that they be even) and there's a lot - a lot - of plastic peeling. Let's try a pros/cons methodical list for this model. Pros : - so beautiful !! I have to tell my HUSBAND to stop playing with the fridge :) - easy access for the kids with the door in door - lots and lots of space. So much I have to debate where to put things. - there is a full ice bucket in the freezer ! This is a great feature, as you don't have to rely on just the ice dispenser and upper ice compartment ! You can chose to enable or disable each ice maker separately - so if you need more room in the freezer, no problem ! - electronic setting of temperatures on front panel, with a choice of F/C - temporary fast freeze or fast chill if you need to freeze or chill items faster - the door in door feature is fantastic. This is what drew us to this model rather than another. Cons : - You have to organize things differently, so be ready for change. For instance, things that used to be on the shelves, like milk cartons, orange juice, beers, yogurt pouches - are now in the door-in-door and the wine bottles and condiments that used to be in the door do not fit there any longer... I've fit the taller bottles on the shelf that is under the one you can lift, but wondering if I should instead get stackable fridge racks. Still debating. I'm planning on purchasing a tray for the condiments so that I can easily access the ones from the back without taking everything out. Not sure if it's a real con - maybe more a change process. - The bottom tray of the door in door is really small and there's not much that can fit in there. I think juice boxes maybe ? We don't have juice boxes so for us this space is empty for now - it's a bit too bad. - The top tray of the door in door is supposed to be for cans, but you can really only fit 3 cans there ! 4 if you put one on top of the three other ones on one side. Again a bit of a wasted space. I would have preferred the top and bottom shelves to be combined in one for more usable space. - for my usage, the crispers are too small. We mostly purchase produce. I will have to purchase an additional container for the produce that do not fit in the crispers. Don't get it wrong - they are good size crispers - but it depends on your habits I guess. Overall enjoying my new fridge very much !

The people who design these pieces of junk should be taken out to a firing squad and forced to sit naked on traffic pylons 8 inches deep while everyone laughs, and then be forced to go back to the design studio and do it right. I have never seen such embarrassing engineering. It is no wonder people don't want to buy American. This is one of the worst laundry machines I've ever experienced. Problem 1. If you put a comforter in here like you are supposed to be able to wash, and use the heavy duty cycle, sometimes the machine won't spin. It will just tumble the comforter continuously because the machine cannot handle the weight of the items. Gee, then why do they say you can wash, rinse and spin comforters in this thing. Hence, the soapy water is not extracted, and neither is enough of the liquid fabric softener. And the dryer will take forever to dry the item Problem 2. When the machine spins, the tub wobbles and always hits the side of the cabin. This is supposed to be normal according to Whirlpool. Really "Whirlpoop"? It doesn't matter whether the load is perfectly balanced or not - the tub wobbles and doesn't spin precisely during the wash and rinse cycles and almost always wobbles on the spin cycles. This causes the machine to eventually sound like a jackhammer during the spin cycle. It goes off balance way to easily. Problem 3. And what is the need for the pump to be on draining water out of the machine when the water has long since been drained out of the tub? Is this to make the utility companies happy? Energy savings my laundry tub... please. Problem 4. It doesn't use enough water. I don't want detergent left on my clothes when the machine is done. Even with the extra rinse option, the rinsing is not adequate. I have noticed this problem with H.E. dishwashers too. We want our items thoroughly rinsed. Some of us have allergies to those chemicals, and some of us just don't want those residues left on our clothes or dishes. I have noticed that it rinses better if the pre-soak option is used, but a person shouldn't have to do this. Problem 5. It doesn't do a good job of cleaning clothes. It just basically soaks them because the washing action is so gentle. If you work on a farm or oil rig, or do heavy warehouse work, etc., forget it - you don't want a front-loader, at least not an American one perhaps, and definitely not this one.. You'd be better off with a top loading Speed Queen washer. Stain removal? LOL! Please -- not with this machine. It can't even remove lint half the time. Problem 6. Too much plastic. The doors and parts of the hinges shouldn't be made out of plastic. One can only wonder what the inside is made of . Problem 7. The cycles take too long. Why should it take over an hour to wash clothes or whatever you want to wash? This is ridiculous. The older machines would be done with everything in 35 minutes or so, so would the dishwasher. There is nothing I like about this machine. It is under-engineered, expensive, cheaply made, under powered, bulky, ugly and ridiculous. I'm only using it because it is part of a rental agreement situation that I fell into.. There is reason why so many of us are not pleased with HE machines. It's because HE usually means subpar performance, durability, etc. I have not recommended Whirlpool or the machines they make for other labels (Roper, Nutid, Renlig, some Kenmores, Estate) for 10 years now and this machine just re-affirms why I have taken that stand. My friend recently bought a laundry pair and he was going to buy Whirlpool. I was the one that dissuaded him from that decision.

This hinge set solved my oven door problem. This oven is about 10 years old and has worked well. Just recently, the door did not want to stay closed all the way and there was a 12mm (~.5" gap) between the door and the oven. This was causing the oven light to flicker off/on with any nearby vibration and you could see into the oven with the door closed, so heat was being lost. After replacing these hinges, the gap was cut to 5mm (~.2") and the door was pulling into the closed position like it did when new. I also replaced the door gasket because it was well worn, hard and in need of replacement. But, I tested the effect first of having just replaced the hinges before installing the new gasket. The new hinges definitely solved the overall closing problem. The springs on the hinge assemblies for this door are quite large and my first thought was "it couldn't be that these large springs have lost tension". I was wrong because the door itself is very heavy and the springs do lose tension over years of use and supporting that door. A word to the wise. This is no small/easy fix and you should be prepared for quite an effort to replace these hinges. The new hinges are not tapped (threaded) to be mounted in place. The instructions suggest that you use the new self-tapping screws that come with this set, but I have never been a fan of trusting a screw to tap a hole in anything but thin metal. I used my Tap set and cut the threads into both hinges by hand (there are 4 such places that you will need to tap for threads). Also, removing the warming drawer (which is essential) proved to take extra time too. One of the big problems was getting to and removing the small hex-head set screw on the right-side drawer-rail. That set screw was positioned behind part of the metal on the rail and I had to dremel-out an area so that I could access/loosen the screw with a tool. That screw's entire purpose is to prevent being able to use the release lever on the right side rail so that you can remove the warming drawer. So, guess what screw was not replaced after I was done with this project. :^) With my oven, to access the replacement "receptacle" brackets that also come with this set, I had to pull the oven out into the kitchen and remove (2) screws in the back to allow the warming drawer wall assembly to be fully removed. That is because you can't physically get your hands into the required area to replace the receptacle brackets. Lots of sharp edges that can cut you, so either be careful or wear some thin work gloves. Also, when you replace the receptacles, it is very handy to use a wire hook (even a coat hanger wire bent into a hook would work). This is because you are having to hold that receptacle in place that is held inside the oven wall while also getting the (2) mounting screws started from the outside. If you hook onto the receptacle from the outside, you can hold it in place with one hand while starting the screws with the other hand. Don't cut-corners and use parts from your old hinges, brackets or receptacles. You will find there are worn areas on all, and grooves cut into the metal parts from years of opening and closing the oven door. Take the time to replace all the parts even though some of them are a pain to deal with. I also added some extra grease to various places on the new hinge set. The original parts on the oven were well-greased around the moving parts, but this new replacement set had a lot less grease applied in those areas. Good luck with your repair and I can 100% say that these parts were "the ticket" to solving my oven door problem.

How amazing is it to buy a refrigerator online, btw? We've had it a year, and it's been problem-free. It's really good refrigerator overall. Things I don't like are how anal it is about the water filter (it basically prevented me from doing anything until I changed it...so I just put the bypass "filter" back on to shut it up and decided I'm never gonna buy filters for it...plus, I already have an inline filter for the water line); also not a big fan of the ice maker...it's small (as one might expect when mouted to a door), but it's also pretty slow to make ice. Also somewhat expected since the icemaker isn't in the freezer, but still... Like any refrigerator, there's always something that doesn't fit somewhere, and this is pretty good about making room. It does have one shelf that can be "halved"...half of the glass shelf slides underneath the rear half to allow taller items. Well lit, bright LEDs. Not sure I need the lower tray to go between red, blue, and green to indicate food temps that vary by a few degrees, but the kids like seeing the colors change when the press the button. I was hoping the lower chest freezer door was a little tougher to open, as my toddlers figured out pretty quickly how to throw their weight and get it open. There are obvious safety concerns about this in general, so just be mindful when considering a bottom freezer in general. (There are universal kid-safety kits for latching it closed, btw.) ---------------------- ...fast forward to 3/9/17....2-year-ish update: All systems still functioning. The brushed finish has held up remarkably well to my monkey-grip kids, who have literally climbed the lower freezer door to access fridge items. All LEDs are still nice and bright. Other things observed: 1. It gets exceptionally cold on the top shelf of the fridge near the "TwinChill" ports, despite the temperature setting being set at the recommended 37 or 1-2 higher. As such, some items in that area have been partially frozen if left there too long. 2. If the humidity inside rises, it prevents the ice cubes from falling further into the bin so that they can be dispensed. They basically stick together a little, and the bin is pretty narrow, so it's rather easy for the ice to stay towards the top of the bin, while dispensed ice creates a void underneath. Nothing is broken in that regard, but it just prevents new ice from being made...and considering it's a small bin as-is, it's always nice to have as much ice available as possible (I use ice often). 3. The Precise Fill mode is a bit picky and will stop filling automatically (as a precaution) if it thinks the container it's filling is too full. My thought is this: There's already an Auto Fill mode...the behavior I just described seems fitting for that mode. In Precise Mode, I'm telling it precisely how much water I want, which should imply that I know how much water the container can hold. For example, I have a 2qt pitcher for making 2qts worth of a beverage...the pitcher, of course, holds just a little more than 2qts. Sometimes the fridge stops at 1qt, and sometimes at 1.75qt, because it's sensing the water level and stops filling. If it's not going to put the precise amount I ask for, the button may as well say Almost Precise Fill. Alas, I can live with holding the button to continue filling. 4. Noise isn't too bad. Every now and then, there's a "what was that noise?" moment, but it's nothing compared to the ghosts that keep opening and closing my closet doors. All things considered, still a good fridge.

I was a little nervous ordering the washer/dryer as there weren't a lot of reviews on it (well, none really), but the build quality seems good, and it does a great job. Though I didn't notice this on the specs, it's a HE unit, excellent for my use on our boat, as it uses very little water per cycle. The condensing drying function works well, though as with other similar units I have read reviews of, it does make the room it is operating in quite warm and humid. The standard drying cycle runs one hour and leaves clothes mostly dry, though still slightly damp, however running a second drying cycle (with less resultant humidity) leaves clothes dry. I think ultimately I may end up running a vent for it, but it's nice that this unit can work either way. All in all, I've been really pleased with this unit - it has a lot of flexibility, as you can customize virtually very cycle, and set it to wash and then dry, wash only, dry only, or simply rinse and spin. Update: I've been using this unit for a few weeks now, and still love it. I'm not sure what the other reviewer is talking about - the unit by default does a wash cycle and goes immediately into a dry cycle without having to start them separately, or you can choose to do a wash or dry independently, as I noted above. I had to give up on the condensing dry function - it works, but it just made the room too humid. I ran a vent, and have been very happy. It's really nice that this unit can do either - many of the combo units are not so flexible. Our clothes, even soiled, come out very clean and smelling great - even sheets and blankets from bedtime accidents with my kids. Even the laundromat commercial washers would occasionally have trouble getting rid of the smell from bed-wetting accidents, but this one does great, even on the 40 minute "quick" cycle. The dryer function is very slow - by default it sets itself for an hour, but I've found that if I have a full load, I need to increase that to two hours for everything to be bone dry even with the vent. On a boat, we fight moisture a lot, so my wife and I like clothes to be as dry as possible before we put them away. Anyway, I'll update this if we start to experience problems, but so far this has been a home run purchase, and the seller "Indoor Appliances" was really great - got a live person by e-mail or phone right away when I had questions pre-purchase and during shipping (even over weekends), and at present they have a nice return policy if you're not happy - no hidden restocking fees. Update 1/23/2015 Well, though it has worked really well for us, the unit died today. Waiting to hear back from support as to whether it will be repaired, replaced, or refunded. It's a shame - worked really well until this happened - I'd be willing to try another if they offer a replacement, but a two month life-span is, obviously, a bit disappointing. Update 2/7/2015 Appliance Desk (service end for the "Indoor Appliances" vendor) made a diagnosis over the phone based on the washer's on screen error code, and sent out a replacement part Fed-ex second day. They had no technicians in the area, but offered to pay for any local appliance or handy-man service willing to swap out the part. Swapping out the motor which drives the main drum was really simple, and it's been up and running for several days now without a hitch. They extended my warranty another month as compensation. Got two boxes of 5 lb HE detergent too. Update 4/23/2015 Unit continues to function as above - no further problems, and it sees almost daily use. Very pleased.

OVERALL: Really a fantastic machine. Usually when I hear "efficient" I think 'ineffective'. Not so with this thing. I've had Bosch, GE and Kitchen-aid dishwashers, this one is the best so far---and for far less. It is Consumer Reports choice for 2016--- and it's recommended by both my friend who owns an appliance repair shop, and my friends at Lowe's. Bought this one on sale (normally 599, got it for 399), plugged it in, and ran it through the absolute ringer. ALL of the dishes in the house were dirty, dried on and icky (I really wanted to see how this thing performed and the unit arrived late). I went from the person who soaked and pre-washed EVERYTHING to a person who scrapes off the food and runs that baby---all in that single, trial run. VERY impressed. I used the "sensor" wash cycle and it delivered.. but you may want the 1 hour wash. NOISE: You'll be checking to see if it's running. I promise. Turn the close captioning off. You won't need it anymore. CAPACITY: I have a family of five who cooks from scratch...and everyone passes the buck on dishes; Which means I get stuck with them most of the time. What used to take three loads in a day now takes one. Right? Mama Happy Dance... that's me. Adjustable/removable top rack. Deep bottom. Top sprayer points down, sprayer under top rack, sprayer on bottom rack, and the top rack sprayer targets the silverware on the door. Like I said I went from three loads down to one. That's huge. INSTALLATION: -You need a 90 degree reverse threaded elbow for the water line, which is not included. -Whirlpool provides the waste line, but not the water line. -Whirlpool does not the provide the power cord... snag the one off your old washer or pick up a new one for 15 bucks or so. -A little duct tape on the insulation at the back end of the washer keeps it from bunching on a tight install. -Leveled at the factory but that's adjustable. SHIPPING: Please note I've seen some sellers list this as 80 lbs in weight. I'm dubious. Lowe's listed it as 55... and really it's so light I had it in out of the van and in my house before my husband got his tools together. NEGATIVE REVIEWS: I would be dubious of these on various sites. When I go to shop for something I research it like a banshee. I've seen repeat complaints and those complaints change in BRAND, sometimes user name, but not content. This leads me to believe that some competitors are using the review boards with ill intent. While there may be legitimate complaints, of course, I am merely pointing to the things that raised red flags for me, which I compared to the learned recommendations of those whom I know to deal in appliances. I recommend you do the same. I've seen prices vary widely. Shop around. COMMON COMPLAINTS: Dry times and smell. If people would read the owner's manual, they'd be happier. --You must--I repeat MUST--use rinse aid. If it still isn't working, the "dose" of rinse aid is adjustable and can be changed with a dial in the reservoir. I had to make this adjustment and boom--dry dishes. Let the thing finish its dry cycle... so many do not. Let it air out and cool down for a few minutes before unloading if doing multiple loads. --You must-- I repeat MUST clean the filter. It's incredibly easy and it keeps your dishwasher from smelling. Think of it this way: you would not leave the strainer in your sink full of gunk for even a minute... why would you do it with your dishwasher? --Know where the heating element is. Put the plastics on the top---it heats from the bottom. Capice? Half a cup to a cup of white vinegar on a quick wash will clear out any smells, should you experience them at all. Questions? Bring em' on. Happy to help. I'm one of those careful shoppers, too.

Just like the previous review on here, after purchasing a new fridge by Whirlpool model number WRF736SDAM13 I came to realize it seemed to be missing a shelf in the door. If you purchased this model refrigerator and feel the same way. THIS ITEM IS FOR YOU. If you have this fridge you know that the left and right doors differ from each other. The left door contains the ice maker, ice storage, and dispenser area that opens out at the front for getting ice and water. Because this door has so much going on it offers only two door shelves and they are made much slimmer than a traditional door shelf due to the space allowed from the ice system. The right door, however, is made more traditionally and offers 3 shelves that are deep enough (front to back) to easily hold a gallon jug of milk. But.... when you install your door shelves where you want them and step back and look you realize that the right door has a lot of dead space at the bottom as if it's missing something there. Because of how the drawer system at the bottom of the interior fridge section comes out so far there is no room there for any of the full size shelves in the door to fit that low. Not only do they stick out too far (front to back) and won't close properly due to the drawers being there, they also will not lock in place anyway.. as if the manufacturer modeled the shelf hooks this way on purpose.to prevent damage to the too wide shelf if it's forced there. But , again, you discover that the slimmer shelves on the left side door fit in this space perfectly! the width is fine for closing properly without banging into the drawers and the shelf hooks lock in place exactly. The only problem now is that your left side door has that dead space your right side did before. So you look around to make sure you didn't miss anything.. surely there's another shelf in the fridge box. But no.. you look online figuring you can find that there's a way to contact the store you bought it from to let them know it's missing. Only to find it's not missing at all. They didn't include the shelf on purpose. It was never meant to have this extra shelf included when it leaves the factory, despite the slim shelf fitting perfectly. So the search begins for a way to buy one separately. And what a search it is. Believe me I've looked everywhere and this particular Amazon listing (as of July 2016 anyway) is the cheapest total for it anywhere. You can find it at it's base price for as low as 17 dollars at special "appliance parts" websites. But it never fails that the cheaper the piece is at these places the higher the shipping and handling costs they charge you. I have never found one of these appliance sites selling a shelf for under 20 dollars where the shipping wasn't 15 dollars or more.. so you still end up paying as much at those online stores in the end as you would for this listing's base price regardless.. and of course this item can be shipped free with your Prime account or an order over $49.00 so the base price is all you would pay. This listing had me leery of purchasing at first because of the awful picture provided by the seller (no offense to the seller but the image is hard to decipher) I knew what I needed from the shelves I already had in the fridge. And this picture just didn't look like them at all. I found another listing on here that had the correct images and was the exact same part number for the item but that listing was 10 dollars or so more. I decided to trust the original reviewer on here, along with the part numbers matching, and go for it. I purchased this cheaper option and was very glad I did as it was exactly what I needed. So to help any future shoppers looking for this I decided to add an image to my review to give you some help in your own decision making. I take no credit for it being a 'good' image but... it gives you a much better idea of what you are purchasing than the original pic for this item. Thanks again to the original reviewer and if you decide to purchase this enjoy your finally COMPLETE fridge.

I purchased this refrigerator brand new from Best Buy on December 28, 2014. On April 20, 2018, upon opening the right-side refrigerator door, the top door hinge suddenly failed and the door collapsed. I managed to catch it with both hands, prop it up, and close it, thus preventing it from falling off completely and crashing to the floor along with food, glass jars and bottles, etc. Had I not caught the door just in time, it most certainly would've caused great damage to the door, the floor, and possible injury to myself and anyone else in the immediate area. My greatest concern is that my 3 year-old daughter sometimes opens the fridge door and the accident could've been much worse had the hinge failed when she opened it with possible severe injury and even death! On April 21, 2018, I brought this incident to the attention of Best Buy Geek Squad Protection hotline but to no avail. They said that the Best Buy 3-year warranty for which I had paid $70 extra recently expired on 1/28/18. They suggested I contact Samsung as the manufacturer of the product. I then called Samsung and spoke to customer service. After gathering the necessary info, the rep proceeded to inform me that the 3-year manufacturer warranty on parts was expired and that my only recourse is to pay for a service technician to come out and fix the defective part, or call the Samsung parts department, order the part, and attempt to fix the issue myself, essentially saying "you're on your own". This proposal was unacceptable to me so I then spoke to a customer service supervisor who essentially told me the same thing. My very last option was to send an email to the Samsung office of the president, which I did explaining the whole incident. I received a call on April 23, 2018 from a Samsung representative responding to my email complaint. The rep asked if there were any injuries or property damage related to the incident to which I responded that there were none. It was essentially a "Cover Your A**" call to ensure that they had no legal liability for damages. She then said that there was nothing Samsung was going to do to remedy the issue and that the manufacturer's warranty had expired after 1 year from date of sale, which is an even worse answer since apparently they only cover such a defect for only 1 year instead of 3 years as I was previously told by Samsung customer service. This is a $1,800 MSRP refrigerator failing to the point where it's practically useless after only 3 years of normal use (planned obsolescence perhaps?). To be clear, this is not an ordinary parts issue due to normal wear and tear like the seal on the door coming off or anything like that. This is a CONSUMER PRODUCT SAFETY ISSUE due to a MANUFACTURER'S DEFECT IN THE PART. Honestly, even if I got this fridge repaired (at my own expense), I don't feel safe using it anymore as the door failing and falling off again (or the other door failing) could very easily cause severe injury and even death to a young child. I've since reported this incident to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission and I intend to post reviews everywhere else that I can in order to warn people about this product and its potentially fatal defect. That being said, I realize that mistakes in manufacturing can and do happen and parts can fail. However, Samsung's response to their mistake and defect is utterly disgraceful and they should be ashamed. I was a long time loyal customer of Samsung owning cell phones, TVs, an oven range, and a microwave but I will never buy another product from them again! I suggest you do the same not only for the safety of your family but to send a message to giant corporations with abysmal policies and practices that they need to stand by their products and treat their customers right. Stand by your products, Samsung, it's that simple!

Let me preface my review by saying that while I unfortunately own this range, I didn't choose it (it came with the house). I've been using it regularly for 8 months now, and there are just so many cons. Here goes: It's small. Yes it's 30 inches wide and therefore not huge, but the design of the stove makes its usable space even smaller than necessary. For instance, the interior oven space is small. The movable racks are oddly spaced (see photo), and so even with the rack on the lowest rung, the usable oven space is not even 2 ft wide x 1 ft high. (And you can't use the lowest rung anyway, because anything you try to cook there, even at a super low temperature for barely 10 minutes, will burn. So forget about putting 2 things in the oven at once. Even if you can get them to physically fit, the one on the bottom will most certainly burn). The varying sizes of burners is unnecessary and inconvenient (see photo, please ignore the spills as I just snapped this photo while cooking). There are 2 normal sized burners on the right. On the left, the back burner is minuscule, and I'm not sure why that's considered a good idea in the stove design world. If you want low heat/flame, just set a normal sized burner to low. It's not rocket science. The front left burner is a double ring - the inner ring (much like the back left burner), is too small to use (the only time I ever use it is to cook a single egg in a tiny pan, but again, this is something that can easily be accomplished on a normal sized burner set to low), and the larger outer ring is so massive that even with the flame at its lowest, the flames curl up around the sides of even very large pots. Not exactly great for safety. I only use the massive ring of fire when cooking with a wok, and then it's almost ok. The height of the stove is very low, and even though I'm not exactly a giant (I'm 5'7''), I always feel like I'm hunching over when I cook (and yes, I did adjust the legs to optimize the stove height). Furthermore the location of the knobs is unnecessarily low. I need to full out bend over to see which burner I'm turning on. And forget about the handle bar - it's annoyingly low to hang a kitchen towel from. The bottom of the range is neither a drawer nor a broiler. It's not even extra oven space. Just seems like a big waste, esp when the unit is so pressed for space to begin with. The range has legs, and no matter how many times I check it with a level in every which direction to confirm that it's straight, I still feel like anything I cook on the front burners is about to slide off onto my legs. To be honest, I'm not sure why anyone would want a range on legs, although sure it looks all designy and everything. But the kitchen floor under it will always look dirty, unless you want to sweep it out every couple of days, and hey that's cool if that's your thing. It's kid unsafe. As I mentioned above, the stove surface is low to the ground, and not only are the knobs ridiculously low, but they're spaced together so closely that childproof knob covers won't fit. Also, if you have kids, you really don't want this stove anyway because you can't cook or bake very much at one time with it. The oven light doesn't come on automatically when you open the door - you need to turn it on manually. That's just annoying. It's crazy expensive. So here's the pro (and I tried really hard to think of more than just one): I would choose this range over an open bonfire in the woods. So it's got that going for it. Otherwise I wouldn't consider buying it unless maybe you are someone who really doesn't cook very often or ever in large quantities (i.e. no kids, no holiday hosting), you love things that look designy like legs on a range (but you also love to clean difficult to reach floor spaces), you're shorter than 5'7'', and you have extra cash to burn.

This washer fills a very important niche, and does it well. If your home is not outfitted with hookups (or doesn't allow washers), this is great model to consider. I owned the previous version (GE WSLP1500JWW) for several years which I had to sell due to moving. That model never gave an issue and work just like the day I bought it. GE has made some minor changes to the product (new simplified display, different lint catch, "basket clean" function added), but more or less it seems to work just like my previous model. I will highlight my impressions here: 1. Quality build I had a cheap Haier before I got my GE, and I honestly didn't trust it very much. I really think you get what you pay for, and with GE I can set and forget with confidence. Of course, it is more expensive than other models, but considering the premium you would have to pay to get an apartment already fitted with hookups, you may still be saving money in the longrun. 2. Great faucet adapter fitting First, don't make the mistake I did when setting up. The adapter has threads on both the outside and inside to accommodate basically any faucet aerator connection. I didn't notice the inside threads because there is a double rubber washer covering it. Take the upper rubber washer out to expose the inner threads! I felt very embarrassed at the hardware store when looking for another adapter. It turns out I didn't need one! The adapter has a water bypass switch (Awesome!!) Just push the red button and it allows water to flow thru the bottom. You can use this to test water temperature, or to otherwise use the sink while running a load. Great idea! The faucet adapter also houses the drain so that you basically have just one connection to worry about if you're hooking up and detaching frequently (like I am). The ridge connection to the faucet ensures that the drain cannot slip out and end up on the floor (happened with my Haier once.) Also, it allows the release of line pressure so there isn't an explosion of water every time you disconnect. This is a fantastic hose! 3. Reasonably quiet I've heard quieter washers (like the ones in Japan, where all you hear is the swish of water, like a river is washing your clothes), but this one isn't terribly loud. Basically a rhythmic hum during the wash cycle and you can guess what spin sounds like. I did some tests from outside my apartment, it can be faintly heard on the other side of the wall, but I don't think I'd notice it if I wasn't intentionally listening for it. It can definitely be quieter, but was satisfied with the sound level. (My complex doesn't allow washers so I have to be very sensitive to this issue). 4. BIG, but portable The washer is big (nearly full sized at 2.6). It is rated less than the previous 2.7 version, but I think it handles exactly the same. Again, I consider this washer to be the upper limit of capacity for an apartment-type portable. My previous Haier was pathetically small. Although it scared me when they delivered it, it is surprisingly light (only about 100lbs). The casters are fairly decent for rolling front and back. Casters could be improved as it can be difficult to make turns. 5. Other Agitator-less: I think this is a necessity for all portables space saving purposes. However, it also has the benefit of being MUCH easier on clothes. Still doesn't quite seem to fill, similar to their previous version, but I trust expertise at GE as they know alot more about washers than I ever will. Reasonably energy-efficient Easy to setup Overall, I'm very happy with the washer. It's been enormously convenient, and much more pleasant than using public laundry facilities. I would definitely purchase again! NOTE: Don't be scared by the price, I found this model much cheaper at Home Depot, which also has free delivery. 5 stars! It's simply the best out there for washer-less apartments!

I did not purchase this item from Amazon - in fact, I bought a used 3-year-old machine from an individual in my local area for less than $100. But just thought I'd add a positive review here, comment on the functionality of a 3+ year old machine, and also offer an idea to those interested in installing wheels on their machine. Overall, I love this machine and can't believe I lived so long in a top floor apartment without purchasing one! The unit I purchased used has some minor dings and dents in the outer casing which the seller said were there from the time he purchased it new online and removed it from the original packaging. Also, somewhere in his three years of use, the indicator light for the "Power Wash" cycle burned out - so you have to use common sense to figure out when the machine is programmed to use "Power Wash" rather than relying on the indicator light alone (this is not hard to do). But as far as basic function, the durability of all main components and parts, etc. - so far the machine looks to be holding up perfectly and running perfectly. I have done 10 loads so far in the few days I've owned it - not one problem. Only one load became unbalanced, and I think its because at the end of my 10 loads I got curious about how much the machine could really hold, and loaded a bit too many things into there :) But even as I was doing it I knew I was pushing the limit! Just for an idea of the machine's capacity - I was able to wash in one load: a full set of queen sized sheets (fitted, flat, 2 pillowcases) Two full size bath towels and two hand towels Two days worth of women's clothing (medium) - two pairs slacks, two tops, 1 pair pajamas, and undergarments/socks I used an HE, organic/eco-friendly detergent, and did quick washes on everything - all my items came out smelling and looking very clean. Now, for an idea about how to put some wheels on the machine. A word of warning - this is not a factory installation, so proceed your own risk! I searched for the caster kit online but couldn't find them from a reliable-looking source. The holes at the bottom of the machine for the rubber feet are 3/8" diameter. Only the hole for the leveling leg is threaded - the others are not. I went to a local big-box home improvement shop in my city, and though I couldn't find any 3/8" stem casters, I did find some 5/16" screw casters for $3 apiece. I also purchased a pack of machine nuts, lock washers and flat washers for about $2. I came home, turned my machine on its front, unscrewed the bottom panel, and took out the rubber feet. I then installed the wheels I purchased with a flat washer on each side, and a lock washer and machine nut in the inner side. For the leveling leg, I had to experiment a little - I added an extra nut on the outside, and had to turn the machine upright and use my level a few times before I got it to the proper height. But these wheels are now very firmly in place on the machine. Though the casters I purchased are not the locking type, I have a small, squre rubber mat (like a yoga mat) cut to 18"x18", that I roll the machine onto prior to running it. I was already using this mat before the wheel install, just to cut down on vibration - but discovered that the friction of the wheels against the rubber renders the machine unable to move even during the spin cycles. Sweet! So, total price of my wheel install = about $14. And if you can salvage a rubber mat, or find one for sale used at a thrift store, etc., even better. Just an idea I thought I'd share for anyone out there interested in putting their machine on wheels. In summary - very happy with this machine, despite some minor cosmetic flaws that seem to be a function of its 3 years of use. Even happier now that I've got it on wheels, and was able to do so inexpensively and without having to order the parts which are hard to come by online.

I never had a stove without a range hood, but when I moved in my new house (which is actually a very old house) there were only cabinets above the stove. No hood at all. I really missed the light the most! Venting would have been very difficult as the house is made of stones, and the walls inside are concrete blocks with metal mesh holding plaster. Not a simple drywall type installation at all. So I decided a ventless hood was the best and easiest option for me. I worried that it wouldn't be effective, but it does a surprisingly good job at moving air. A little noisy, but most hoods I have ever owned were slightly noisy. There is a clip-on cover for the front little vents if you indeed have a vented option. I did not know that hood was not shipped with the extra filter needed for ventless operation. There is a mesh cover for the fan, but it is not a filter. Further, the item amazon featured on the hood product page was NOT the one that went with this. I went to the Braun website and still was confused. I finally found the right one: it is this one:<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/Broan-41F-Range-Hood-Filter/dp/B000VL060M/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">Broan #41F Range Hood Filter.</a>&nbsp;There may be non-Broan brand filters available, but I wanted to be sure I got the right one, so I went with the name brand the first time. This filter is installed with the blue side next to the blade and then put the included mesh screen over that. There is a clip that holds them in place. The hood does require hard wiring. I did not have that either!! (Why are these projects always so complicated?!!!) However, there is an item available (and noted on the Broan website) called BR-HCK44 - Range Hood Power Cord Kit. It is "for use when hard wiring is not an option and a plug is needed." There is also a wall mounting bracket (BR-35) for installations where there is no upper cabinetry. I didn't need the bracket as I had upper cabinetry. I don't think either are available here on amazon, but just google the model number/name and you will find one. They are relatively inexpensive. I actually had to run my new plug cord down the wall and use the outlet behind the gas stove. If you have a similar problem, here is my solution, maybe it could work for you, too. I was putting in a glass tile backsplash behind the stove anyway, and wanted wood or ceramic border to "frame" the small tiles. I figured I could use the recess of one of the trim pieces to hide the cord as it ran down the wall and then simply plug it into my grounded outlet behind my gas stove. (Most gas stoves need an outlet behind them for clocks, electric ignition, timers, oven light, etc.) I couldn't find any ceramic that worked, but instead routed out some trim molding with a dremel, tucked the cord behind that channel, and used the wood to frame my tile backsplash. The wood should be safe, it is no closer than any adjacent cabinetry would be. You can't tell there is a cord there, and it is pretty protected from bumps since it is behind the molding. (I just used little finish nails in case I need access to it in the future. I put them in the wood first so I wouldn't nick the cord.) I did need a short grounded extension, too...the add-on cord was only 3 feet long, but the ugly stuff is behind the stove. It was a tricky problem, and some of you may already have wiring in place, but just in case you run into something like I did, I thought I would post my work-around! Maybe I will post a picture of it one of these days! One more tip...if you have to install this by yourself (like I did) it is HARD holding the thing up with one hand (and your head!) and marking the holes for drill/screws with the other! SAVE your packing box, put it on your stove and put the hood on top. It will hold your hood very close to its final position for you so you can make the marks for the screws! I think I added another little amazon box so it sat high enough. OR use the cardboard from the box to make a template for where the drill holes need to be (it is easier to hold cardboard than a range hood!)

I second every single thing that the user named "Janis" from December 2009 wrote. I too bought a TDS meter to test the water quality. I too was completely shocked to find that two separate GE filters removed basically nothing (or if they did remove something, they also must have added something else to the water as well like carbon from the filter, because the TDS reading was hardly less than or the same as the tap water). Be warned: these filters are not worth the money and very well might not be doing anything to your water! They're certainly not worth the money! If you're interested in the details, here's the long story. My wife had been telling me for the past couple years that the water from my GE filters tastes horrible and WAY worse than the Nestle bottled water she likes to get. I told her I thought it tastes fine and that I could taste a slight difference between the tap and the filtered water, and so the GE filters must be doing something right. I assumed the Nestle water just tasted different than both the tap and filtered water because of their small amount of minerals they "add for taste." I don't like being wrong, but I'll admit I don't think I've ever been this wrong about anything in my life (and I hope my wife doesn't read this review--just kidding!). The water here in Arizona is admittedly miserably hard (around 700PPM average from my tap). The World Health Organization recommends no higher than 600PPM and the EPA recommends no higher than 500PPM. The filter that had been in my refrigerator for 6 months (and that I'd been drinking from that entire time) read around 650PPM before I replaced the filter. The new filter I had purchased to replace the old one was apparently defective and came back about 750PPM (that means it was ADDING something to the already terrible and arguably unsafe 700PPM tap water--and this is AFTER filtering through about 5 gallons of water to make sure it was broken in properly)!!! The seller was great and filled out the GE manufacturer warranty info for me and I had a new filter is just a couple days at no additional cost. But this filter too was far short of my expectations. After breaking it in again with 5 gallons through it, I have not yet gotten a reading below 650PPM. Often it is in the upper 600's or even low 700's--which is basically at the normal tap water level or just below it by a statistically insignificant amount! Now the GE filters do seem to help the taste slightly, and I don't have the ability to verify GE's claims about removing certain specific contaminants. But even if it does get some things out, the overall level of TDS in the water is still higher than the generally considered safe limit, and so what's the point? Here's the shocker: I had always heard news stories about how your bottled water might not be as safe and pure as you think. Well, every single bottle that I have tested from the case of Nestle bottled water my wife drinks has come back between 45-75PPM. No, that's not 450-750, that's literally not a single bottle over 100PPM! Under 50PPM is considered ideal drinking water, and under 100PPM is still great. Over 500PPM is dangerous for long-term consumption and if my untrained understanding is correct, it also apparently makes it harder for your body to even get some of the benefits of drinking water in the short term. My recommendation if you're concerned about actual water quality rather than just taste is to avoid these GE filters like the plague. Buy an HM Digital TDS water meter on Amazon here (I got a cheap one for around $15 and it works great). Test out various types of bottled waters or other cheaper filters, and then pick something long term that you're comfortable with. As much as I hate to use up tons of plastic water bottles, the health of my family comes first and since these GE filters are so expensive to begin with it probably won't cost me that much more to just drink bottled water instead. We'll probably experiment with buying a large bottle of distilled water with a spigot and putting it in the fridge. But one thing is for sure, after hundreds spent on previous GE filters over the past few years, that's the last $40 filter I bought.

I didn't want to rate with any stars, because I have a slightly different model, FR464, but I think that refers to the color too. However, I can't leave a review without a star rating. We bought an Igloo 4.9 cu ft fridge in black (FR464) from another website. It is very, very close to this model, so I want to share our Igloo experience. First off, the site had the wrong photos of the insides, so I didn't get the freezer I wanted. While I suppose this was a site issue, it could have also been sent that way from Igloo. I don't know, but I only got a 1/2-width freezer instead of one the full width of the fridge. Pros: Looks great in the room. Plenty of door storage. Reasonably quiet. Cons: Does not keep things very cold in a warm environment. Shelves not very adjustable - you are stuck with a shallow shelf at the bottom. It will hold a 16.9 oz bottle of water on its side, and that's it. Freezer is not self-defrosting. It is very disappointing that a company such as Igloo, who has been in the business of keeping things cold for decades, could not do a better job on their small refrigerators. We have ours cranked all the way to the top setting. It isn't in a hot garage - it is in the upstairs bedroom. It still can't handle warm temps! It has been very warm here this week. While we run the A/C endlessly, this little fridge can't give us a cold drink. All we get are bottles that have a slight, well how should I say this, a clammy feel to them. You can tell they were in a colder environment than the room, but the drinks themselves (bottled water, 24 oz pepsi's and juice boxes) are NOT cold. This has been a major disappointment. I had already thrown the packing material away as it had been doing a pretty good job and I trusted the brand name. Who knew that it was so dependent on the temperature in the room as to whether or not you would get a cold drink?? Seriously disappointing, and it will be my LAST Igloo purchase. UPDATE 08/04/11: Well, we've now had this three months. So far, we've had lots of drinks that were barely colder than room temperature. The freezer door (which was NOT the interior that was pictured with the listing when we bought it - they had the interiors mixed up with a Haier) had so much frost build-up that the door broke completely off a couple weeks ago. No, we didn't use the freezer - it didn't do anything but freeze that little mini tray of ice cubes. The freezer pops (those tubes that look like they are filled with koolaid) don't even freeze in there. I thought hey, maybe with that little freezer section open, the drinks will get colder. Nope! We have it cranked all the way to 7, the highest this will go. The drinks are not cold by any means. It does a nice job of keeping things like cheese or fruit, and not too bad on yogurt. However, I wanted to have COLD drinks this summer, and I am not getting them. We have bottled water and Pepsi in the fridge. Nothing in a plastic bottle gets very cold at all. We also have some cans of ginger ale in the can rack. Because of the aluminum, they are a little bit colder than the bottles, but not a lot. I was putting some more water in there this afternoon, and the inside was so warm and clammy that I checked to see if it stopped working already. I checked the plugs to be sure it was still plugged in, and it was. I turned it off for a few minutes to let it rest, then turned it back on. I did not hear a thing. So, I'll check it tomorrow to see if it died completely. I don't think it did - I just think it cools very poorly and inefficiently. I COMPLETELY regret this purchase. Steer clear of the Igloo models. The other brands are a little more (some places, just $30-$50 more), but you might get something that actually cools your drinks down. This model can't seem to do it. Big disappointment. This is the most expensive thing I've bought online in a long time, and the joke was on me. Shame on Igloo for making something so shabby. It looks great on the outside, but can't do the job you hire it to do. I didn't need another thing taking up floor space - I needed a bedroom refrigerator.

This little gem is a workhorse at making ice. I unboxed it and set it upright and cleaned parts an inside with vinegar and water and dried it good with paper towels after removing all tape. I set it on a filing cabinet I had in my livingroom in my apartment.making sure the fan on the left side had at least 5 inches to blow out the hot air. I made sure the rear of the unit had at least 5 inches clearance from wall to pull in air for the compressor cooling. The manual says to let sit for 1 hour upright before plugging it in. The yellow placard that came with it said 2 hours upright. I chose to let it sit upright for a min of 2 hours before I plugged it in. Then I filled it with distilled water that I had chilled in my fridge to the fill line and turned it on. I timed it to see how long before it made ice on medium cubes and it took 10 min after I turned it on to drop ice. Then I changed it to large cubes and timed it and it dropped ice in 11 min. I experimented with a timer and recorded different actions of the ice maker. Time to first cubes from turning on ----- 10 to 11 min. Time to make large cubes-----10 to 11 min per cycle. Time it takes to fill up the the ice tray------ approximately 1:45 min to full tray. Weight of a full ice tray---- aproximately 2 lbs. Time to add water light comes on from max fill line---- around 3 hours Now that it has been running constantly since I turned it on it produces large cubes in about 10 to 11 min like clockwork. If you set a timer or check your watch you will know that you need to go empty the ice tray in 1:45 min. If you time it you will know that it is out of water in about 3 hours. I fill it up to the full line around 8pm and I know it will run cout of water around 11pm and will be quiet for me to sleep. .I also discovered that I could put some of the cubes of ice in the water tank and it helped keep the ice area colder and ice lasted longer in the bin. I always used water that I had chilled in my fridge to fill it up.and this seems to help it stay cold longer. I purchased a white waste basket with a touch lid on it at wallmart that would fit and set perfectly in my small chest freezer. Every 1:45 min I check my ice bin and dump the ice into the basket in my freezer. This works out really well for me I also learned that when the add water or empty ice red light comes on just add water or empty the ice bin and close the lid and the light will reset automatically in about 3 min. You don't have to do anything but wait 3 min. I am very happy with this icemaker and it has been running for 3 days constantly and not slowed down a bit. Update 3/21/2016 Making Ice With My Edgestar Ice Maker Fillup Water Tank with 101 oz's of distilled water. Or add 6 bottles of 16.9 oz of purified water. Turn on ice maker an set cube size. I use the large cube size. First cubes made in approx 10 min. Ice will be made every 10 min. Ice bin will be full in approx 2 hours. Full ice bin is approx 2lbs of ice. Takes approx 11 trays of ice to fill bin (10 min each) Empty ice light will come on in approx 2 hours. Empty water tank light comes on in approx 7 hours. Full tank of water makes approx 6 lbs of ice. These times are approx but very close to accurate. I marked a 1 gal distilled water jug with a black marking pen for a fill line after i added 101 oz of water to the jug You can use 6 bottles of 16.9 oz of water if you prefer to fill the tank that way I purchased a tall 13 gal plastic waste basket with the push button lid to open for ice storage at wallmart. I set the basket in my chest freezer and simply empty the ice bin into the waste basket when it is full. This stores a lot of ice for me and I stir or fluff the cubes to loosen them up. I use my chefs round knife sharpener for this task and it works very well. When water or ice light comes on just empty ice or add water and the ice maker will restart in apx. 4 min. Just wait and don't turn the icemaker off and then back on. It is not necessary.

I bought this rather than pay a plumber to run a new water line to where I have my refrigerator. When it arrived, my first impression was that it was a lot bigger than I had imagined looking at the photo. While some have talked about using this for a party or a barbecue, I would not generally think of it as being "portable". I realize that just about anything can be portable if one is willing to haul it around but this just seems kind of big and heavy to be putting away and then taking it out as needed -- for me, it makes more sense as something for which one reserves a section of counter-top, or a small table as its semi-permanent location. YMMV. When I bought it, I thought that I might be so disappointed in its performance that I'd wind up paying for the ice maker and the plumber but I decided to roll the dice. I'm glad I did, because frankly, I'm impressed. This thing makes ice pretty quickly -- it doesn't make a lot of ice quickly but from filling it with room temperature water until the first batch of ice drops (enough, perhaps, to cool one small glass of liquid) only takes something like 10 minutes, and it gets faster with subsequent batches, undoubtedly because it keeps circulating the water over the cooling "rods" so the temperature of all of the water drops to near freezing in time. If I fill the ice-maker with water, in a few hours it will produce enough ice to fill my refrigerator's ice-maker bin (I'm not sure exactly how long because I'm not typically near it when it shuts off and it will shut off when its bin is full. Its bin is smaller than the one in the refrigerator and so, a full fill of water will require emptying the bin at least two or three times. If one does not empty it, though the compartment is insulated, it is not refrigerated so, eventually the ice will melt, and when enough of it melts that none is touching the "bin full" sensor, the ice-maker will start up again and start making more ice. So, it could run all day (off and on) but unless you empty the bin you'll never have more than one bin of ice. I am very happy with the unit but there are a few minor cons worth mentioning (but not enough for me to downgrade my rating). One negative is the drain plug. Others have mentioned the fact that it is just a removable plastic plug which could be easily lost. Another downside to the drain plug, however, is that it is on the side of the machine. That's probably better than it being on the back, which I would not be surprised to find is true of many such devices, but I think it would have been much more convenient if it had been put on the front. This thing is big so you are probably going to wind up sticking it on a counter to get it out of the way and unless you have access to the side with the drain plug, you'll be forced to turn the thing around 90 degrees so the drain plug is in front where you can get to it. It's not so heavy that it is impossible to rotate but it'd sure be a lot easier if it wasn't necessary. As some have mentioned, it is a bit noisy, though I don't find the noise all that objectionable even when I am sitting in the same room with it (which isn't usually true). The main thing I notice about the noise is that I often wonder just what the heck the machine is programmed to do given the erratic operation sequence at times. The basic flow seems to be: 1. Begin circulating pump 2. Start the refrigeration unit to cool the circulating water. 3. Once the ice is ready, stop both the pump and the compressor, and heat the rods so the ice drops into the collection area. 4. Then a plastic blade pushes the ice into the bin and the whole process starts over. It's a simple, reasonable work flow but in practice, for reasons I can't fathom, the refrigeration unit and/or the pump will start and stop at different points (most commonly when it first starts up) for no discernible reason which just seems weird. I don't know if my unit is malfunctioning or if it was intended to work that way, but it sure seems odd. Overall it is a fine ice-maker which, though unlike the refrigerator's ice-maker, requires some involvement in the process, but that is just the trade-off for the convenience of the unit working without a water-line hookup being necessary and saving the expense of a larger refrigeration unit which would allow the ice to be stored in the unit itself until needed.

I knew going into this that the directions were not well written, but for the price - I figured I would give it a shot. Once the fridge is up and running, it is fantastic - I haven't had any issues with it. I have a keg in there now and it is hovering between 34 and 36 degrees without having to make any adjustments. I am new to the kegerator game, so I wasn't sure how filling/exchanging CO2 tanks worked. The fridge comes with a tiny 2.5 lb capacity (5.2 lb tare weight) aluminum CO2 canister, which is cute, but pretty much worthless. I looked around in my area to find a place that re-fills CO2 tanks, but they all have to send them out to be refilled, and can't refill them at their shops. That turnaround time is 1-2 days. Not convenient. The beer distributor where I bought my keg has 5 lb capacity steel CO2 canisters on hand that they will do exchanges with. So rather than try to refill the little canister, I put down a deposit on one of their 5 lb canisters, and when its empty I just have to take it back and pay like $11 for a full one again. No need to send my tank out to be filled and wait to get it back. I was able to fit the 5 lb capacity steel CO2 tank and a keg in my kegerator without any issues. You can't use the little included tank strap (because the tank is larger in diameter than the stock tank), but a bungee strap will suffice to hold it in place. As far as the unit itself, it did take a bit to set up, as I found myself cross referencing the written directions, the exploded diagrams and what I had in front of me. If I can offer any advice on assembly it would be this: 1 - Even though they are not well written, read the directions. There are parts you must remove for some reason. Not sure if that is because of packing for shipping, or because they are no longer used due to a redesign, but there are things in there that must come out for this unit to function properly. 2 - When in doubt, refer to the exploded diagrams in the directions. They offer more info than any of the written directions, IMHO. 3 - Anywhere you have metal touching metal, and you have to twist those parts together, there should be a gasket or o-ring involved in that connection. Most of my gaskets were pre-installed, however, I did need to install a few myself. No gasket means air leak, which means you lose CO2 and/or pressure. 4 - If you have a "wobbly tower", you did not install it properly. The unit comes with a "plug" that you can use if for some reason you want to remove the tap handle from the system - and make it into a normal fridge. Now this is completely undocumented, but if you look at that plug in its fancy little bag, it has a large gasket packed with it. You must remove that gasket from the plug and place that gasket between the top side of the fridge and the underside of the tap handle tower before you twist the tap handle tower into place. If you do not do this, the fit of the tower is loose and wobbly and you will lose cold air through this gap which is probably why most people have cooling issues. This part of assembly is not easy, and takes some force to get it twisted on correctly with the gasket in there. You can apply some soap to the gasket to make it easier to turn the handle tower into place. You will probably fail the first few times, the fridge will move around on its casters and hit you in the legs, and you will say to yourself that I have no idea what I am talking about - there is no way the tower will twist into place with that gasket in there. Be persistent and get it on there. Nobody likes a whiner. Assembly aside, it works great. And remember, you only ever assemble it once. So once that is over with, you have a good product at a cheap price that works like a champ.

Be careful, NewAir will not stand by their products. Our NewAir broke within the first 4 hours of use. The manufacturer will NOT cover the item under warranty. Just in case you're actually thinking of buying a NewAir product... think twice... From: NewAir Sales <[email protected]> Date: Fri, Nov 14, 2014 at 11:03 AM Subject: Re: Icemaker return To: Susan Ferguson <[email protected]> Hi Susan, The manufacturer warranty is void if the unit is purchased by a private seller who does not have our consent to sell our products. This is the same reason why we ask for a copy of your receipt upon requesting warranty claims because if it not from a valid authorized dealer we will not proceed with warranty work. We also list our authorized dealers on our web site for customer use. We stand behind our products, however when an item is purchased from a private seller the purchaser runs the risk of the item being used, open box, refurbished, and or a scratch and dent. Our one year limited manufacturer's warranty is only valid on new items sold by our authorized online dealers. It is unfortunate to see that you are in this situation, however you will need to contact the seller of the item for a replacement or refund. Have a great day! Mireya Customer Support NewAir | 3419 East Chapman Ave. #190 | Orange, CA 92869 Ph: 855-963-9247 Em: [email protected] FB: facebook.com/NewAirUSA Twitter: @NewAirUSA Pinterest: pinterest.com/NewAirUSA Instagram: NewAirUSA Web: [...] "Made by awesome" On Thu, Nov 13, 2014 at 7:59 PM, Susan Ferguson <[email protected]> wrote: Hello Mireya- I'm sorry but I thought the manufacturer warranty was for the manufacturer, NewAir. Please explain why the warranty is not valid in this case. I don't see anywhere in the warranty exclusions that the warranty is not valid if not purchased from an authorized dealer. In addition, a consumer would never know who "authorized dealers" are because if a company is selling your product doesn't that implicitly make them authorized to do so? I sincerely hope that NewAir will reconsider this position and stand by the integrity of their products. This ice machine was literally used for four hours before failing and it is, quite frankly egregious that your company is negating a warranty that explicitly states it will repair or replace defective materials or workmanship for up to one year. Please let me know how I can talk to a dispute department regarding this matter. I look forward to your response and I will refrain from giving any reviews of your product until this matter is resolved. Thank you, Susan Ferguson On Thu, Nov 13, 2014 at 3:10 PM, NewAir Sales <[email protected]> wrote: Hi Susan, Unfortunately, the ice maker was not purchased from an authorized dealer. You will need to contact the seller "Mehadrin" through Amazon for any existing issues on your unit. Have a great day! Mireya Customer Support NewAir | 3419 East Chapman Ave. #190 | Orange, CA 92869 Ph: 855-963-9247 Em: [email protected] FB: facebook.com/NewAirUSA Twitter: @NewAirUSA Pinterest: pinterest.com/NewAirUSA Instagram: NewAirUSA Web: [...] "Made by awesome" On Thu, Nov 13, 2014 at 12:32 PM, Susan Ferguson <[email protected]> wrote: Hello- I received an AI-100S icemaker in March 2014. I used it one time and within 4 hours the cooling unit had shut down. My best estimate is that the pump was still working (the water was getting pumped through) but the cooling mechanism was not. When I plugged the unit back in to try it a few hours later, the cooling mechanism never turned on. Since this product is still under warranty, I am hoping to acquire a new unit since this particular one has essentially never been used and is obviously faulty in some capacity. I have attached the receipt for your reference. It was purchased as a gift through Amazon Marketplace. Thanks so much and I look forward to your response. Susan Ferguson

Be careful, NewAir will not stand by their products. Our NewAir broke within the first 4 hours of use. The manufacturer will NOT cover the item under warranty. Just in case you're actually thinking of buying a NewAir product... think twice... From: NewAir Sales <[email protected]> Date: Fri, Nov 14, 2014 at 11:03 AM Subject: Re: Icemaker return To: Susan Ferguson <[email protected]> Hi Susan, The manufacturer warranty is void if the unit is purchased by a private seller who does not have our consent to sell our products. This is the same reason why we ask for a copy of your receipt upon requesting warranty claims because if it not from a valid authorized dealer we will not proceed with warranty work. We also list our authorized dealers on our web site for customer use. We stand behind our products, however when an item is purchased from a private seller the purchaser runs the risk of the item being used, open box, refurbished, and or a scratch and dent. Our one year limited manufacturer's warranty is only valid on new items sold by our authorized online dealers. It is unfortunate to see that you are in this situation, however you will need to contact the seller of the item for a replacement or refund. Have a great day! Mireya Customer Support NewAir | 3419 East Chapman Ave. #190 | Orange, CA 92869 Ph: 855-963-9247 Em: [email protected] FB: facebook.com/NewAirUSA Twitter: @NewAirUSA Pinterest: pinterest.com/NewAirUSA Instagram: NewAirUSA Web: [...] "Made by awesome" On Thu, Nov 13, 2014 at 7:59 PM, Susan Ferguson <[email protected]> wrote: Hello Mireya- I'm sorry but I thought the manufacturer warranty was for the manufacturer, NewAir. Please explain why the warranty is not valid in this case. I don't see anywhere in the warranty exclusions that the warranty is not valid if not purchased from an authorized dealer. In addition, a consumer would never know who "authorized dealers" are because if a company is selling your product doesn't that implicitly make them authorized to do so? I sincerely hope that NewAir will reconsider this position and stand by the integrity of their products. This ice machine was literally used for four hours before failing and it is, quite frankly egregious that your company is negating a warranty that explicitly states it will repair or replace defective materials or workmanship for up to one year. Please let me know how I can talk to a dispute department regarding this matter. I look forward to your response and I will refrain from giving any reviews of your product until this matter is resolved. Thank you, Susan Ferguson On Thu, Nov 13, 2014 at 3:10 PM, NewAir Sales <[email protected]> wrote: Hi Susan, Unfortunately, the ice maker was not purchased from an authorized dealer. You will need to contact the seller "Mehadrin" through Amazon for any existing issues on your unit. Have a great day! Mireya Customer Support NewAir | 3419 East Chapman Ave. #190 | Orange, CA 92869 Ph: 855-963-9247 Em: [email protected] FB: facebook.com/NewAirUSA Twitter: @NewAirUSA Pinterest: pinterest.com/NewAirUSA Instagram: NewAirUSA Web: [...] "Made by awesome" On Thu, Nov 13, 2014 at 12:32 PM, Susan Ferguson <[email protected]> wrote: Hello- I received an AI-100S icemaker in March 2014. I used it one time and within 4 hours the cooling unit had shut down. My best estimate is that the pump was still working (the water was getting pumped through) but the cooling mechanism was not. When I plugged the unit back in to try it a few hours later, the cooling mechanism never turned on. Since this product is still under warranty, I am hoping to acquire a new unit since this particular one has essentially never been used and is obviously faulty in some capacity. I have attached the receipt for your reference. It was purchased as a gift through Amazon Marketplace. Thanks so much and I look forward to your response. Susan Ferguson

This refrigerator ended up being the highlight of my new kitchen. I was skeptical purcahsing a refrigerator unseen and off of Amazon. Here is my experience: I went to three appliance stores. They all had large refrigerators on the floor for to look at. None had the size I wanted on the floor for me to touch and see. Therefore, I would be ordering sight unseen from any source. Talk to your local appliance folks about their shipping. Amazon was fast and with Amazon Prime definietly cheaper. All three local stores would be ordering my fridge and I thought their wait times were a risk to my and keeping my kitchen reno on schedule (time equals money to a contractor). As for this fridge, I needed the door swing changed. I did hire a local handyman and it took him about 35 minutes. The directions were in detailed/detail. All the parts for changing the door swing were provided. That was as smooth as it gets. I needed specific dimensions, and Summit was the only manufacturer I could find that made these. I am so happy I got the Summit. I am a short 5'1" and I can get to everything on the top shelf. The inside is small. I thought I would not like this. However, I found I only eat what I know is there, and with this fridge you can see everthing! I love, love, love that. I purchase some clear baskets for the inside, since they only come with two. For the two drawers that come with the unit, they slide on their bottoms on the base of the refrigerator. I purchased some super slick tape off Amazon (uselful throughout the house) and made two runners on the bottom of each drawer. They slide like a dream. I like this 100 times better than traditional drawers that slide by a rim at the top, because the kind I grew up with were always a trick to take out and wash and then get back into place on the rails provided. The Summit solution with my slick tape rails on the bottom are a cinch and avoids frustration. I must say that the feezer does have some ice formations due to humidity. And, the freezer is not super cold. That might be operator error. I should be playing with the temperature settings. There are no door shelves in the freezer. I wasn't expecting that, since most freezers have shelves on the door. However, this being a bottom freezer, I found that I would have hated shelves on the freezer door. Instead I bought some clear shoe boxes from the dollar storeto corral my little stuff. Now I just pull the box onto the counter where I can conveniently rumish through the contents. That works out better. The refrigerator has four full shelves. My old fridge only had three, so I think this is a luxury. I cannot hear my fridge at all. I live in a small condo, so that was a concern. Nope, cannot hear it. To be fair, my kitchen reno has this fridge with cabinets built around it with room for air flow, and maybe that is why there is no noise. I know it is on because the stuff id cold and the light comes on. The other thing that I really like is how easily it slides. I can easilly slide it (remember I am short) even when it is full of contents. Seeeet! I've never had that in a fridge. And it looks great. And having a cabinet depth fridge makes the kitchen appear bigger. My friends and neighbors all swear that I changed the footprint of my kitchen (we know the secret was this fridge). Lastly, this cabinet depth fridge did not go wide to make up for the space, but rather went tall. That was genious and I am benefiting! Who wants to conserve space above the fridge? In a show of hands, not many. However, any width eats into my counterspace, and I love counterspace. Having a taller fridge rather than a wider one is awesome. Believe me when I say that every shelf on this fridge, all the way to the top and back is accessible without having to stand on my toes. I hightly recommend this fridge

We purchased this Bosch dishwasher SHX98M09UC after much Internet research 2 months ago and have used it every day since. The dishwasher is light enough to be maneuvred into place by one person and the installation was rather simple with the very complete instructions provided. The operation manual is also clear and the controls easy to understand. The design is stunning: all stainless in the front, with a heavy-duty handle and very nice digital display on the facade, although the actual touch controls are hidden on top of the door. The inside is stainless steel also, great at retaining heat. All accessories are high grades and we appreciate the adjustable top rack and removable silverware holders. As with all stainless appliances, it's hard to keep it looking clean very long as it shows finger prints a lot more than painted appliances. The drain is covered with an easy-to-remove filter basket that we have not had to empty yet in 2 months of use (I understand some cheaper dishwashers have small "garbage-disposal" instead of a collecting basket, and those can fail or not always work properly as well as being noisy) It's energy efficient as I understand the drying is performed by the heat retained in the walls of the washer. So far, we have not observed any difference in our electric bill. I believe it also uses small amounts of water (it's a very small water line going to the washer and a few seconds are always enough to pump enough water for the program. Emptying is also very quick) The cleanliness of the dishes is good on the Auto Wash program, which we have been using most. With the recommended drying agent, glasses and fine china come out looking very good with no water spot. Heavy soiled pots may need a little rinse before the wash, especially with some caked-on food, such as eggs. Plastic ware comes out OK from the top rack and, with the limited heat of this dishwasher, is not warped. The main reason why we decided on this washer is the noise rating: the quietest we could find in our price range. And on this point, we were just blown away! The first time we turned it on, we had trouble believing it was running! Our kitchen is open to the living room and now, no need to turn up the volume on the TV when the dishwasher is running (big difference from the old Whirlpool we had before). To me, this only is worth the high price tag! Even the water emptying into the sink pipes is very quiet. Before buying, I had considered the equivalent Kenmore Elite (same price) but the noise rating was 4 dB more (3 dB= double the noise!) and the racks a tad flimsier at first look. The Kenmore Elite had more gadgets such as a "turbo wash" nozzle, knife holder and additional washing programs and options. In general, I prefer simpler systems that are reliable and of high quality so I am very happy with this Bosch choice. I would warmly recommend this appliance if you need a new dishwasher that doesn't rattle and wake you up! _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ UPDATE 2010: We have been using the dishwasher for nearly a year now and it's as great as the first day we got it. The drain basket rarely needs emptying, the dishes are clean and never damaged (especially plastics), the washer is very easy to operate and most of all, it's so quiet it still surprises us! Don't hesitate: this is an excellent buy! __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ UPDATE 1/27/2012: I am surprised to see that so many reviewers report issues so I wanted to add a couple comments: Here, the dishwasher is going strong and it still looks as good as when we received it. We have had one hiccup when we moved to Costco's Kirkland liquid dishwasher detergent: the dishes were no longer as clean as expected and it took us a while to figure out that going back to the tablets Bosch recommends for their machine would bring back the perfect performance. In the meantime, another liquid detergent gave us very poor results too (can't remember the brand?): it seems that this dishwasher should be used with tablets only. Since going back to the recommended (is it Finish? It's the ones with the red ball in the center) tablets, we couldn't be happier! I also noticed comments about dishes not being dry. I wanted to mention that we always use a rinse/dry agent (the washer indicates when it runs out). We have been changing brands depending on availability/sales so it must not be as important as using tablets. The only time the dishes are not completely dry is if you open the washer before the end of the program: it's a bit tricky because it sounds like nothing is happening anymore when it is drying; it is totally quiet but the display gives you a drying time. I wish all could be as satisfied as we are...

After about a week with this product, it certainly does what it is supposed to do: produce about 2 full bins of ice in 24 hours ( about 12 pounds). It was shipped to Hawaii, and delivered without a scratch either on the unit or on the box. Let it sit upright for 24 hours, so the refrigerant could expel any air bubbles. Once you uncrate, check the door seal: you can look at all 4 sides and check that the door is not warped. You can also check by closing the door on a dollar bill and attempting to "slide" the bill up and down: you should have moderate to hard resistance along the entire gasket. If you do not, the unit may stay on excessively to compensate for the cold that is lost due to the door not properly sealing against the inner surface. Installation: If you have done some plumbing, but have little to no experience with compression type fittings, call a plumber "friend" or a licensed plumber for assistance with installing the water line. I have had experience installing compression fittings. You will have to remove the back grate ( 4 screws-easy) to expose the 1/4" male thread, which sits at an angle protected by a splash guard. Looking at some of the other reviews, I went to Home Depot, and purchased more 1/4" compression rings ( copper) as well as a copper fitting, only to find that those fittings do not fit the provided 1/4" tubing...well, they "fit", but way too tight, so I ended up using the parts provided: sleeve, female fitting and Delrin( plastic) compression ring. Be SURE to point the NARROW end towards the end of the tube, and DO put your nut and plastic compression sleeve on the tube BEFORE you insert the metal sleeve inside the tube! I used a small amount of pipe joint compound around the male threads on the ice maker. Tighten to 5lbs or less torque ( gently), and no leaks occurred. I am using RO water from my Premier h2o RO-PURE RO unit, so I installed a push to connect Tee on the 3/8" plastic line, then a turn off valve, then uses the 1/4" tubing provided with the ice maker. Give yourself a generous length: enough to be able to pull the unit OUT of your install space to service, if necessary. Operation: Once I verified no water leaks, I fired up the unit, and within 3 hours I had enough ice to cover the bottom of the bin. I followed the suggestion to discard that ice, and started from scratch. 12 hours later ( or a bit less) I had a full bin of ice! I have found that, contrary to some other observations, this unit does NOT vent from the front! While the compressor is on, you can put your hand to the back of the unit, and feel the fan exhausting air. It does INTAKE from the front, so definitely keep that clear! How often it goes on will depend on how many times you open and close the door, as it does with any freezer, refrigerator, or ice maker, and it will determine if it ices up, and how often you will need to defrost ( it has a drain on the lower righthand side of the unit. You can turn OFF ice production manually by raising the sensor bar, or you can let the accumulated in the bin do that. The unit temperature knob was set to halfway, and that's where I kept it. It seems to keep the ice frozen: no water or defrosting from ice stuck together in the bin. Conclusion: The unit works very well, and imho, it is better to use it with filtered or RO water, as it will cut down maintenance over the long run. I also sprung for the two year additional warranty: cheap for an appliance! If your needs are for more than 12 pounds of ice in 24 hours, better be ready to spend north of $1000, and have a floor drain installed! For two people in a high humidity (Hawaii) environment (No A/C), this unit produces MORE than enough ice in one bin for a day. I have turned off ice production, and the ice ( over two days) has stayed frozen: no sticking, but the ice produced is NOT clear, if that matters to you. Most of the issues owners were having I have noticed occurred in units purchased a few years ago. The "kit" comes with a metal(copper?) sleeve, metal (copper?) compression nut and a Delrin ( plastic) compression fitting, and it worked first time. Very Pleased!

This ice machine does what it promises, for about a year of daily use if you don't maintain it. It's sturdy, starts making ice in about 15 minutes, and can keep up with constant demand if you keep it topped up and store the ice in a location other than its ice basket (it stops producing ice once a certain level is reached to prevent overflowing, but the provided ice basket holds only enough ice to completely fill about 6 cups if you're lucky). The 3 ice sizes aren't much different from each other, so which one you'll use will end up just being your personal preference. The small option produces ice a little more quickly, but the provided cubes melt faster and aren't very space-efficient. Larger cubes perform much better but are subject to diminishing returns for their production time. Peel off and degunk the stickers on the inside of the lid ASAP. The moisture from condensation will have them fray and brown eventually, so nip that grossness in the bud back when it's easiest to peel all the stickers off. I recommend against operating it in direct sunlight, anywhere with poor airflow, or areas with high temperatures. It will have to work harder, consume more electricity, and produce less-robust ice. The life of the machine can be extended but that requires a little vigilance and frequent maintenance. For our corner coffee shop, it ran about 10 hours a day, 7 days a week. This is most likely heavier usage than most home situations. Here's what we found: 1. Never turn it on without enough water in the tank. It won't destroy it, but it does add extra wear to the pump. (And the pump ultimately determines its maximum lifetime, see #9.) 2. Make certain to plug it into an outlet with a working ground pin. Any shorts or built up charges will behave unexpectedly and possibly catastrophically if you don't. 3. Use canned air or other computer cleaners to dust the fan grate on the side, and the airflow grate on the back. How often you should do this unfortunately varies wildly depending on placement and your area's dust buildup. This also helps reduce electricity consumption. 4. If you use the machine as frequently as we did, it's a good idea to drain the water at least once a week and let it dry overnight. Prevents mold. If you use it less frequently, attempt to drain it after every session, so it never just sits with water in it. 5. Use distilled water to fill the machine if you can. Keeps the white interior looking nice longer, and prevents mineral buildup. 6. You have to clean the interior. Washing the ice basin out with kitchen cleaner and water is a regular occurrence, but after some months you'll need to unscrew the casing, take off the back shell, and remove the revealed screws under that white rim to get at the rest of the ice-making surfaces. Water buildup, possible mold, collected dust that was washed into crevices, etc. 7. Last and certainly not least, if you are planning to use this for foodservice, or want to make sure that the ice is sanitary, you'll need ice machine-cleaning solution. Regular disinfectants and cleaners are too corrosive for the chilling surfaces. It's easy to find at restaurant supply stores and other specialty outlets, but that means you'll have to find those places first. Most ice machine manuals recommend you run it through about once a month. 8. If the cooling fan breaks or runs slowly, it's just a computer fan that can be replaced by somebody who's comfortable assembling their own PCs. It's also possible to oil the fan bearings with mineral/baby/fan oil by removing the sticker on the center and getting at the rotor. 9. Unfortunately, even if you do all of the above, the life of the machine is ultimately doomed by the water pump I mentioned in item #1. Eventually its bearings are going to give out. It's not impossible to replace, but finding the right pump model may be difficult. You can't really ask a repairman or the manufacturer to help with this if it's past its warranty; the repair cost would exceed buying a new machine. This is about the most serious problem that any non-defective individual machines could have; something is going to die way before the compressor or other refrigeration components could start developing problems. It's just not built to be repaired. Also be careful about spilling beverages on it; you'll have to pop open the inner casing of the door to clean up any liquids that seeped through the cracks, otherwise you'll have to stare at stains through the viewing window forever. * * * * * * * * * * * All this sounds dire, I'm sure, but as long as it's alive it gives excellent, dependable service, especially for the price.

After about a week with this product, it certainly does what it is supposed to do: produce about 2 full bins of ice in 24 hours ( about 12 pounds). It was shipped to Hawaii, and delivered without a scratch either on the unit or on the box. Let it sit upright for 24 hours, so the refrigerant could expel any air bubbles. Once you uncrate, check the door seal: you can look at all 4 sides and check that the door is not warped. You can also check by closing the door on a dollar bill and attempting to "slide" the bill up and down: you should have moderate to hard resistance along the entire gasket. If you do not, the unit may stay on excessively to compensate for the cold that is lost due to the door not properly sealing against the inner surface. Installation: If you have done some plumbing, but have little to no experience with compression type fittings, call a plumber "friend" or a licensed plumber for assistance with installing the water line. I have had experience installing compression fittings. You will have to remove the back grate ( 4 screws-easy) to expose the 1/4" male thread, which sits at an angle protected by a splash guard. Looking at some of the other reviews, I went to Home Depot, and purchased more 1/4" compression rings ( copper) as well as a copper fitting, only to find that those fittings do not fit the provided 1/4" tubing...well, they "fit", but way too tight, so I ended up using the parts provided: sleeve, female fitting and Delrin( plastic) compression ring. Be SURE to point the NARROW end towards the end of the tube, and DO put your nut and plastic compression sleeve on the tube BEFORE you insert the metal sleeve inside the tube! I used a small amount of pipe joint compound around the male threads on the ice maker. Tighten to 5lbs or less torque ( gently), and no leaks occurred. I am using RO water from my Premier h2o RO-PURE RO unit, so I installed a push to connect Tee on the 3/8" plastic line, then a turn off valve, then uses the 1/4" tubing provided with the ice maker. Give yourself a generous length: enough to be able to pull the unit OUT of your install space to service, if necessary. Operation: Once I verified no water leaks, I fired up the unit, and within 3 hours I had enough ice to cover the bottom of the bin. I followed the suggestion to discard that ice, and started from scratch. 12 hours later ( or a bit less) I had a full bin of ice! I have found that, contrary to some other observations, this unit does NOT vent from the front! While the compressor is on, you can put your hand to the back of the unit, and feel the fan exhausting air. It does INTAKE from the front, so definitely keep that clear! How often it goes on will depend on how many times you open and close the door, as it does with any freezer, refrigerator, or ice maker, and it will determine if it ices up, and how often you will need to defrost ( it has a drain on the lower righthand side of the unit. You can turn OFF ice production manually by raising the sensor bar, or you can let the accumulated in the bin do that. The unit temperature knob was set to halfway, and that's where I kept it. It seems to keep the ice frozen: no water or defrosting from ice stuck together in the bin. Conclusion: The unit works very well, and imho, it is better to use it with filtered or RO water, as it will cut down maintenance over the long run. I also sprung for the two year additional warranty: cheap for an appliance! If your needs are for more than 12 pounds of ice in 24 hours, better be ready to spend north of $1000, and have a floor drain installed! For two people in a high humidity (Hawaii) environment (No A/C), this unit produces MORE than enough ice in one bin for a day. I have turned off ice production, and the ice ( over two days) has stayed frozen: no sticking, but the ice produced is NOT clear, if that matters to you. Most of the issues owners were having I have noticed occurred in units purchased a few years ago. The "kit" comes with a metal(copper?) sleeve, metal (copper?) compression nut and a Delrin ( plastic) compression fitting, and it worked first time. Very Pleased!

This ice machine does what it promises, for about a year of daily use if you don't maintain it. It's sturdy, starts making ice in about 15 minutes, and can keep up with constant demand if you keep it topped up and store the ice in a location other than its ice basket (it stops producing ice once a certain level is reached to prevent overflowing, but the provided ice basket holds only enough ice to completely fill about 6 cups if you're lucky). The 3 ice sizes aren't much different from each other, so which one you'll use will end up just being your personal preference. The small option produces ice a little more quickly, but the provided cubes melt faster and aren't very space-efficient. Larger cubes perform much better but are subject to diminishing returns for their production time. Peel off and degunk the stickers on the inside of the lid ASAP. The moisture from condensation will have them fray and brown eventually, so nip that grossness in the bud back when it's easiest to peel all the stickers off. I recommend against operating it in direct sunlight, anywhere with poor airflow, or areas with high temperatures. It will have to work harder, consume more electricity, and produce less-robust ice. The life of the machine can be extended but that requires a little vigilance and frequent maintenance. For our corner coffee shop, it ran about 10 hours a day, 7 days a week. This is most likely heavier usage than most home situations. Here's what we found: 1. Never turn it on without enough water in the tank. It won't destroy it, but it does add extra wear to the pump. (And the pump ultimately determines its maximum lifetime, see #9.) 2. Make certain to plug it into an outlet with a working ground pin. Any shorts or built up charges will behave unexpectedly and possibly catastrophically if you don't. 3. Use canned air or other computer cleaners to dust the fan grate on the side, and the airflow grate on the back. How often you should do this unfortunately varies wildly depending on placement and your area's dust buildup. This also helps reduce electricity consumption. 4. If you use the machine as frequently as we did, it's a good idea to drain the water at least once a week and let it dry overnight. Prevents mold. If you use it less frequently, attempt to drain it after every session, so it never just sits with water in it. 5. Use distilled water to fill the machine if you can. Keeps the white interior looking nice longer, and prevents mineral buildup. 6. You have to clean the interior. Washing the ice basin out with kitchen cleaner and water is a regular occurrence, but after some months you'll need to unscrew the casing, take off the back shell, and remove the revealed screws under that white rim to get at the rest of the ice-making surfaces. Water buildup, possible mold, collected dust that was washed into crevices, etc. 7. Last and certainly not least, if you are planning to use this for foodservice, or want to make sure that the ice is sanitary, you'll need ice machine-cleaning solution. Regular disinfectants and cleaners are too corrosive for the chilling surfaces. It's easy to find at restaurant supply stores and other specialty outlets, but that means you'll have to find those places first. Most ice machine manuals recommend you run it through about once a month. 8. If the cooling fan breaks or runs slowly, it's just a computer fan that can be replaced by somebody who's comfortable assembling their own PCs. It's also possible to oil the fan bearings with mineral/baby/fan oil by removing the sticker on the center and getting at the rotor. 9. Unfortunately, even if you do all of the above, the life of the machine is ultimately doomed by the water pump I mentioned in item #1. Eventually its bearings are going to give out. It's not impossible to replace, but finding the right pump model may be difficult. You can't really ask a repairman or the manufacturer to help with this if it's past its warranty; the repair cost would exceed buying a new machine. This is about the most serious problem that any non-defective individual machines could have; something is going to die way before the compressor or other refrigeration components could start developing problems. It's just not built to be repaired. Also be careful about spilling beverages on it; you'll have to pop open the inner casing of the door to clean up any liquids that seeped through the cracks, otherwise you'll have to stare at stains through the viewing window forever. * * * * * * * * * * * All this sounds dire, I'm sure, but as long as it's alive it gives excellent, dependable service, especially for the price.

I have to say I like my L.G. we have had it for almost a year and no problems from HEAVY USE.I Don't scrape pre-rinse or anything and have no problems,I refuse to wash dishes before I wash dishes that is why it is called a dishwasher. Dishwasher's that are made today are designed to last maybe 5 years if your lucky. We have a Whirlpool at our farm that runs 5 hours and has over-nite cycle that runs for 8 hours it's the new water and power savers. The Kitchenaid by Hobart I grew up with lasted for over 20 years and was still running when Mom and Dad remodeled. That machines would wash and dry everything in a hour. It used about 11 gallons of water on heavy cycle and had a 1/3H.P. wash motor in it,it would push over 60 gallons a minute through the wash arms compared to 6 gallons per wash arm today. The machine also had a full blown disposer in the machine not a blender blade and I remember they had a demo glass machine and it said Hurricane in a box. The sales man would throw olive pits in the machine and uncooked pop corn and you could hear it chew it up and not even phase the machine. These new machines like this L.G. uses a 110 watt pancake motor and changes from top to bottom and it's pretty powerful if you watch the you tube videos,it's better than alot I have seen. Whirlpool uses a 55 watt drain pump motor for the main wash motor and is made my Askol. I have replaced these and it says on there 20 mins on max and 10 mins off..All dishwasher's for the most part alternate top and bottom arms now days because the motor's are so weak. In 2010 there were tons of dishwasher's going to the landfill because they were not cleaning. The Phosphates in the dishwasher detergent were removed and that is what sequesters calcium ions and so many other thing's that make your dishwasher work well. That white stuff that I still see folks talking about is because of there detergent has been redone and it does not work unless you buy these 15 dollar for each wash all in one this and that and still does not work. I was adding S.T.T.P. to my detergent with mixed results. Then I found this detergent [...] it is called Bubble Bandit because it has 8.7% Phosphate's less fillers and it marketed as a commercial detergent but,you can read between the lines and before some tree hugger goes nut's. S.T.T.P. is a water softener/chealting agent and there is TONS more in human waste and the stuff they are using in place of phosphates there is alot of questions of safety. The manufacturers loved it when they dumped phosphates. People thought there machine was broke and got new ones. Millions dishwasher's were tossed in the landfill for nothing and were working just fine. I know of 5 relatives of mine who did they did not believe me. I have a 1984 Kitchenaid that was never used sitting in the garage waiting. With these all nite cycles and dishwasher's running all the time how is that going to do anything?They minds well just put a run the machine in the ground button on it. A dishwasher running and running will not last long..The secret is to use that detergent Bubble Bandit you can order 20 LBS for 60$$..There are some states that have banned the sell if you go to there site they can't ship it to you unless your a restaurant or something like that but, you can go on Ebay and get it from a private seller. The smell is gone and I don't use any rinse agent at all. I have done the three layer Cake test in this dishwasher with a full load of un-rinsed,scraped or anything I also dumped in some hard cat food just to give it a extreme test. I set the machine on Normal with Sani rinse and everything was spotless afterwards.. Try that detergent&nbsp;<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/Carton-of-Bubble-Bandit-Dishwasher-Detergent-with-Phosphate-Eliminates-white-film-water-spots-in-hard-water-Five-60-oz-Bags-19-lbs-FREE-SHIPPING-AT-CHECKOUT/dp/B007X5F8RK/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">Carton of Bubble Bandit Dishwasher Detergent with Phosphate. Eliminates white film & water spots in hard water. Five 60 oz Bags (19 lbs)- FREE SHIPPING AT CHECKOUT!</a>

Revised: My opinion has changed after owning this range for +8 years. We had some repairs during the warranty period and that was great. After about 6 years of owning this range we had to do a major repair. The oven suddenly stopped working. The flame would stay on for about 2 minutes and then go out, or would not turn on at all. To fix it, it required to change the thermostat and thermocouples. To get to the components the range needs to be disassembled by a professional. The whole repair cost about 20% of the original cost of the range. OK...we went with the repair thinking we'd get another good 5-6 years without a problem. Not such luck. About 2 1/2 years after the repair we are having the same problem. I contacted Bertazzoni to see if they'd cover part of the cost of the parts, since they didn't last long (we'll have to cover the cost of labor anyway). No luck. At this point, we will have paid almost half the cost of the stove in repairs in less than 9 years. Unfortunately, as beautiful as this range is, we'll go with a different brand when we replace it. ___________________________________________ We looked for about a year, comparing ranges, and finally decided on the Bertazzoni. We couldn't be happier. What we love: Stove top - It has 4 different burners, which allow you to simmer, heat fast, use small or large pans, and really regulate the heat. The double burner (one burner inside the other) comes in handy to evenly heat larger pans -- I can hardly wait to try to make some paella. One feature we really like is the "reverse" regulation with the knobs. If you want really low flame, you crank the knob to where it stops. In most ranges it works the other way around - the low flame is in the lowest position - with gas ranges it is really hard to find the precise spot between having a low flame, and having no flame. The way the Bertazzoni is designed, your burner is on and you are sure you have it at the lowest setting. It is well built, and sturdy. The guy that installed it thought it was a Viking from the weight and way it feels -- but it is about 1/3 of the price of a Viking. It has a 2 year warranty. We needed some adjustments and the lighting mechanism of two burners was failing a few weeks after it was delivered. I called Bertazzoni - the parts arrived in a few days, and the technician was here the day after the parts arrived. Excellent customer service. No digital controls!!! When looking for ranges, we found most of them have digital controls. I had heard that some of these ranges (especially in the $1000-$3000 range) have very noisy fans. After talking to a few sales people, I found out that since the digital controls are not supposed to be exposed to the heat, these ranges need an additional cooling/fan element to keep the digital controls from getting too hot. At that point I was on a mission to find a good range with manual knobs. It has a beautiful design! We didn't buy it for the looks, but it is certainly a bonus. FEATURES WE LIKE, BUT MAY NOT BE FOR EVERYONE The oven is relatively small, as ovens go. It is wide, but not very tall. You can fit 2 pyrex with no problem, but you probably wouldn't be able to fit a turkey and a pyrex. Since we seldomly need that big of a volume in an oven, we solved the problem by buying a convection-microwave for under $300 for the rare occassions when we need more oven volume. On the positive, since it is a smaller oven, it takes less energy to heat up, saving up on gas usage. When the oven is on, the sound of the fan is noticeable. We don't mind it, but it is something you may want to consider. SOME LIMITATIONS The minimum theoretical temperature of the oven is 275 degrees - so if you often cook or bake dishes that require much lower temperature, this may not be the oven for you. We recently made some dishes that required the oven to be 250 degrees. We found we could achieve this by having the oven at the lowest setting, and setting the trays in the top oven shelf. Since the controls are not digital (see above), it takes a little getting used to the oven knob to get the precise temperature control. We have a $5 oven thermometer, and that works very well. For the price and the quality, we couldn't be happier.

IN SHORT: A tremendous improvement over my 5-year old LaCrosse indoor/outdoor temperature/humidity solar-powered station that finally, mercifully, died. DESCRIPTION > Both the sender and the receiver are powered by 2 ordinary AA batteries each, which are easy to replace. > No complicated setup. No on/off switch. No clock to set. No mode buttons. No synchronization procedure. Just insert the batteries in both units and they start working. > Easy to read at a glance. Uncluttered display. The outdoor temperature and humidity, and the indoor temperature and humidity (on the bottom in smaller lettering) are all displayed all the time.. > The only buttons are a Fahrenheit/Centigrade selector switch; a maximum button, and a minimum button. You can optionally use the minimum/maximum buttons to check the highest and lowest temperature and humidity, inside and out, since you last pushed the button. Just release the button and the display returns to the current readings. > Small arrows tell you whether the temperature/humidity is rising, falling, or remaining constant. > The receiver (the display unit) sits at a slight angle (for optimal viewing) in a removable stand. The receiver unit also has a cutout on the back which allows it to be mounted on a nail-head or screw-head on the wall if you like---albeit you have to supply the nail or screw. You can carry it from room to room if you want. > You can hang the sender unit from a hook or a string from the "handle" on top. The also sender has a cutout on the back which allows it to be mounted on a nail-head or screw-head if you like---albeit you have to supply the nail or screw. It might take a bit of thought, effort, and your own hardware to mount it on a masonry wall. It will also stand up, or lie, on a table, etc. > The sending unit has a good range. I placed on a table in my screened patio, about 50' from the reciever. You could use it to monitor the temperature in another section of a large house, in your attic or basement, or in a neighboring building---such as a detached garage. CAVEATS > The display is LCD, and easy to read, but unlit. You need some light in order to read it. > Since there is no clock, it doesn't tell you when the highs or lows occurred. > The suggestion in the instruction manual to hang the sender unit by a string from a tree branch sounds like a very poor idea to me. If it swings around violently, it could be damaged by impact. Strings rot. > The instruction manual claims that the sender unit is waterproof. NOT so. Maybe the electronics are weather resistant, but the battery compartment is not. The sender is most likely to die by the battery contacts corroding. I suggest placing the sender unit in a location that is protected from directly sunlight, wind, rain, and high humidity. I suggest smearing the battery and battery compartment contacts with silicon grease to protect them&nbsp;<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease-3-oz-Tube/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube</a> > Finding a good place for the sender unit is by far the most difficult part of the installation procedure. Since the range is good, don't overlook the possibility of placing it inside an out-building such as a gazebo or tool shed. But don't protect it too much, because enclosed areas can become humid, which isn't good for electronics. The location should be "airy". > You can use any type of AA batteries. I suggest cheap ordinary alkalines. In very cold weather situations, you might want to put lithium batteries in the sender unit. Yeh, you can probably use rechargeables if you really want to, but doing so is rather pointless---even the best rechargeable will simply loose their charge in about 30 days---save your rechargeables for high-drain electronics, such as radios and toys. > Click on Stoney just below the product title to see my other reviews, or leave a comment to ask a question.

I moved in to a new home recently and found that the existing disposer was in need of replacement. Instead of replacing just the disposer, I decided to go ahead and completely replace the entire sink, including the faucet, flanges, and disposer. I decided to purchase most of these items on Amazon due to the excellent prices and free Prime shipping. However, I was troubled by the lack of documentation and details regarding the compatibility of the different parts. I'm writing this review along with a review of the disposer I purchased in an effort to fill in these gaps for future purchasers. For the disposer, I went with the&nbsp;<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/Waste-King-L-1001-Legend-Series-1-2-HP-Continuous-Feed-Operation-Waste-Disposer/dp/B000LNIK6C/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">Waste King L-1001 Legend Series 1/2 HP Continuous Feed Operation Waste Disposer</a>; unfortunately, the flange that comes with the disposer has a highly reflective chrome finish which will not be suitable if you want to coordinate with faucet hardware that isn't also chrome. Though there are many custom flanges to choose from, the Waste King will not be compatible with most of them since it utilizes the EZ Mount system for attaching the disposer to the sink. This assembly is not compatible with the majority of the custom finish disposer flanges found on Amazon and in most other stores; most are intended for Insinkerator (ISE) disposers. There is an adapter kit available (<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/Waste-King-3101-ISE-Adapter-Kit/dp/B000HE6ECM/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">Waste King 3101 ISE Adapter Kit</a>), but I would highly recommend only using this adapter if you are replacing an existing ISE disposer and want to use the hardware already attached to your sink; if you are starting from scratch you would still need to purchace the ISE mounting hardware in addition to the adapter. I should also note that there are some Waste King branded flanges for sale, but the only ones I found that are compatible with the EZ Mount system have plastic finishes, like white, biscuit, etc. Waste King flanges that offer a metal finish are only for Waste King disposers that use the very different 3-bolt mounting system, which are a bit more expensive than the EZ Mount variety. If you plan to start from scratch with all new components as I did, using an EZ Mount disposer along with a suitable disposer flange like the Waste Maid will simplify your installation and help you avoid headaches and delays caused by ordering incompatible parts. If you insist on a certain brand of disposer flange you will have to get the flange, ISE mounting hardware, and the adapter. This should work, but at a much higher cost than the Waste Maid flange alone. As far as the flange itself is concerned, I was impressed with the quality of its manufacture; it's quite heavy and solid, unlike some of the ISE flanges I've handled. The machining of the threads is very smooth and I had no trouble screwing the disposer's mounting hardware onto the flange during installation. So far the finish seems to be holding up well, but it should be expected that a disposer flange will take some abuse and may not look perfect forever; however, in this case there isn't much of a finish to worry about anyway, so I expect it will look nice for quite some time. My only complaint is that the stopper had some minor nicks and dings, primarily on the "handle" portion; it looks as if it may have been dropped on a concrete floor. Also, it does not seem to sit very tightly in the flange; it doesn't leak or anything, but it seems to fit so precisely that degradation in the rubber seal could cause a leak in the future. These are very minor issues and aren't really noticeable, but they do make it seem like the stopper was used instead of new; that being said, I do not feel that they should reduce this product's rating. In conclusion, I would not hesitate to buy this flange again. If you're installing a new EZ Mount disposer and need a custom flange, this is the way to go.

My husband and I purchased this LG dishwasher (model # LDF7932ST), in December 2011 for over $900. I have several elements I feel that are definite "pros." The Lo-Decibel(tm) feature was great; it was so quiet you didn't even know the machine was on. The Trusteam(tm) feature I did like, as it uses steam to dry the dishes, as opposed to a heating element on the bottom. That eliminates accidentally melted plastic dishes that fall through. Dishes usually came out very clean and dry, as long as rinse-aid was in the dispenser and liquid detergent was used. Next, I have more than several elements that I qualify as definite "cons" to this machine and to LG as well. On the exterior, that beautiful stainless steel that cost us an extra $200, was very easily damaged. If not quickly dried up, even a drop of water that had dripped down the front, left a permanent light-gray streak; it became a rather large pain to have to keep up with the high-maintenance exterior. The racks inside, as well as the utensil's holder, were all made of flimsy plastic and broke quite easily. Within six months my silverware were falling through holes the size of quarters, created by broken plastic pieces, and caused permanent scratches on the bottom of the interior. Signalight(tm), by the way, is nothing to get excited about; it is merely a little blue light that illuminates for a brief period after the machine completed the cycle. The biggest downfalls to this machine had to be its continued mechanical failures. In fact, the mechanical malfunctions proved to be the only true aspect of this dishwasher that I could rely on. After only two months of ownership, the dishwasher would no longer work. A piece from the inside of the motor area broke off and jammed it up. At the six month mark the machine would not drain. On the bright side, the one year manufacturer's warranty covered those two repairs. On the dark side, repairs took weeks to complete while waiting for parts, and dealing with the customer service department was a nightmare. Most of the times I called, the representatives had very strong accents; they could not understand what I was saying, and vice-versa. Other times the representatives wanted me to take the machine apart myself and call them back after doing so. Every time, however, my call to their help line resulted in LG telling me they needed to send a technician out for an "official" diagnosis. These diagnoses by the way, cost $95 each and every time a technician arrives at your door once you are out of the warranty. That cost does not even cover any repairs. Our luck ran out really ran out when seven months later, while out at a party, the dishwasher's drain line burst and flooded our kitchen. The warranty expired one month earlier, so we paid the $95 diagnosis fee, plus $105 for a new drain line, to Jorge the LG technician, whom we knew on a first name basis by that point. LG offered no compensation whatsoever, for damage that my cabinets and walls sustained from the water the drain line had slowly leaked before it ultimately ruptured. Finally, two short months after the drain line debacle, the demise of our not-so-fabulous dishwasher had finally come. Once again Jorge paid us a visit, and this time informed us that the capacitor burned out and would cost nearly $350 to repair. Devastated and furious, we threw in towel and refused to sink even one more penny into the mechanical money pit. Consequently, we replaced our very expensive LG brand dishwasher with a used Maytag purchased for $50 at a yard sale. Until this very day, the fifty dollar used dishwasher remains problem free. I cannot really put into words the disgust and disappointment I feel for my LG brand dishwasher and really for the LG company itself. I would like to say that it was a fluke and we received a defective machine, but we had also purchased a matching stainless steel, over the counter LG microwave for $450 and a French door LG refrigerator for $2900. Only one of which still works and both of which suffered multiple, costly mechanical malfunctions. We put our faith and almost $5000 of our hard earned money into LG kitchen appliances, and all were complete disappointments. What good were all those luxuriously expensive features on my LG dishwasher, when the machine itself could not even function properly and even damaged my home? I tell everyone I know who is looking to buy appliances, "Do not buy LG." If you do, buy them at your own risk. My husband came up with his own slogan for our dishwasher and this company, "Life sucks with LG."

UPDATE: As of 8/11, I would rate this unit at 1 Star (Can't change on edit function of review) Original refrigerator was just replaced with the newly designed icemaker model due to the issues with the original icemaker. Electrolux has been good, but this refrigerator's icemaker has really been a huge problem. I would look for other lines before Electrolux, at least until they can improve thier designs and engineering. Original review with some edits: We have been on a journey to find a great, stylish and functional counter depth refrigerator. We are replacing a perfectly fine Kitchen Aid side by side that we put in a second home. First, we chose a Samsung side by side, but were not satisfied with it's refrigerator temperature. We set it at 34, but it never seemed cold enough. Milk was never "ice cold" as we were accustomed to. We started monitoring the temperatures, and it was typically around 38-43 degrees. Samsung was unable to remedy this issue, even after sending out a new replacement. Then we chose a GE Profile model, but it was a similar scenario, with wide temperature swings between the setting of 34, and 44 degrees, so a return of the GE was in order after service was unable to remedy it's large temperature swings. Now, onto the Electrolux. This was a favorite from the start when we were shopping, but we were scared off by some reviews. We decided to go for it anyway, and are pleased with that decision, so far. However, the first one delivered did not cool at all. A service tech was dispatched immediately, and he found that there was a broken line from the compressor, due to damage in shipping, no fault of the unit, and all the refrigerant had escaped. The dealer brought the GE back until another Electrolux could be ordered and delivered. Upon recieving the second Electrolux, it is performing nicely. Internal temperature is as stated on the Wave Touch Panel at 34 and -4 degrees for the freezer (which, by the way, you can set to show the refrigerator and freezer temps at all times). The units appearance is of good quality, being stainless steel on all sides, sturdy handles, and a modern appearance with Wave Touch Controls, which are easy to use. The doors are simple to align or adjust if needed. The interior of this unit is 22.6 cu/ft, so as counter depth goes, it is decent. With edgeless glass shelves, ball bearing glides on all drawers, a large temperature controlled drawer with digital programmed settings, 2 good sized slide out bins, and exceptionaly well done LED lighting, this unit's interior is impressive. We especially like the temperature controlled drawer, which can be adjusted from 28 to 40+ degrees. The drawer is large enough for party platters, and can keep fresh meats at near freezing, or beer can be kept at a very nice 28 degrees, or wines at a favorite selected temperature. The ice maker does take up a fair amount of space, but for ice and water in the door, it is a worth while sacrifice. The icemaker has had some negative reviews, but so far ours is fine. The cubes are rounded, with a divit. I'm not sure why this is considered "Drink Friendly", but they are nice. One issue is that the cubes seem to come out with some vengence. However, by simply putting your glass or ice bucket close to the dispensing chute...problem solved. We have seen no melted ice puddles in the catch basin. Water dispensing is simple, and functional. We have only had this unit for a few days, so I can't comment on ice production quantity, but it is supposed to be better than most, per Electrolux specifications. The freezer has 2 deep slide out bins, and 1 shallow one, with dividers and smooth ball bearing slides. One of our wire dividers does not stay in place, but that is no big issue at all. Space is good, and well utilized. Lighting in the freezer is excellent. If I listen closely, I can hear the unit running, but sound is not obtrusive or noticably louder than any of the other units we have had recently. I would say it is quiet. Pros: Operates at accurate temperatures set, huge slide out temperature controlled drawer, Exceptionally well done LED lighting and appearance, Wave Touch Controlls, functional use of space. Looks and feels high quality. We finally have really cold milk again. Cons: High end of price scale, Ice maker takes up some refrigerator space, and some door storage.

EDITED to add comments after 6 months of use: People continue to curse at the stupid design of the water dispenser, and continue to spill water all over the place. Reducing the star rating from original 3 stars to 2. I would NOT recommend this unit, especially for the asking price. If you can find one on clearance, maybe, but again, there is NOTHING special about this that qualifies it to be priced above $1K imo. ONE year warranty people...that should tell you something right there. ********** Replaced a GE fridge with this model: Due to my space limitations, I narrowed it down to the similar Kitchenaid model (kind of wish I had gone for this), and the Whirlpool at the same level. Bought online sight unseen fwiw. Honestly, I don't see why the "PROFESSIONAL" designation on this. Nothing about the quality makes me think it's anything other than a very average refrigerator. Cheap, plastic bins just like every other average unit I have seen. PROS: - Best thing about this is the good looking AND practical stainless steel finish. It's great really - NO smudging (except on the handles) AND it's magnetic (something rare in SS models). - "theater" lighting...when you open the doors at night, supposedly it doesn't blind you immediately, but rather gradually, as the lights ramp up - Has a changeable air filter. I like this...no more arm and hammer boxes taking up space and tipping over. OTOH, another filter to replace. - External, digital temp controls for both sides. I like the idea of this...but in reality, how often are you going to be changing the temperature? If you have to change it a lot, maybe there is a problem with the thermostat? - this is a small thing, but I really like that some of the side compartments in the fridge have a non slip surface. Very nice touch. Instead of your jars of jelly sliding around and clanking into each other (except when the door closes, see below), things stay nicely in place. CONS: - OMG THE DOOR SLAM. This one kills me, and for such a small thing, makes such a big negative impression because it's EVERY time you deal with the fridge. When you close the door, there is NO "cushion" for lack of a better or more technical word. On my very low end GE (and most every fridge out there for that matter), there is a built in governor I guess that slows the speed of the door so it doesn't just slam closed. I think what happens is that the resistance is just greater as you approach the closed position. Whatever that feature is, WP for some reason decided to leave it out on this fridge (maybe none of theirs have this, no idea). It is sooo annoying. We have gotten used to it more or less, and most of the time we carefully and slowly close the door so it doesn't rattle the whole kitchen. But anybody else (who of course is also used to the normal, slower fridge door behavior) closing the fridge door is always startled and usually jumps when the door SLAMS shut with a huge rattle. This is just piss poor design imo, and is a big negative. I am sure we will eventually get used to it, but shouldn't have to. - another horrible, non standard design implementation re: water dispener. Unless you have an extremely wide cup (think wide coffee mug or even soup bowl/mug, you can't just push your glass into the unit expecting water to hit. Nooooo. Because of the design, any normal rim sized glass will be overshot by the water squirter, so you have to wrap your hand around the glass and then insert, to make up for the space. Never seen another fridge with this problem, and like the door slam issue, because it's so unusual, every time someone not living in our house goes for water, they end up getting it all over them and the floor. That tells you right there it's not just me being picky. I swear they designed the thing and never actually tested it in a real live situation. Inexcusable imo. Because these two things have relatively easy workarounds, I am not going to go into below average territory. I doubt there is a perfect fridge out there, but I do wish I had gone for the Kitchenaid. I wonder if their engineers made similar mistakes. 3 stars, barely, and that is assuming that this unit will last many years w/o probs. IMO, look at the Kitchenaid before buying this one.

We did a lot of research 15 months ago and selected this Bosch dishwasher. Consumer reports rated it high and the key drawbacks we saw were the smaller interior size compared to our previous dishwashers and the lack of a food "disposal" system. Many of the high efficiency washers have a filter basket that has to be removed periodically and cleaned out. That is the case with this one. Shortly after our first use with the dishwasher we were smelling a lingering egg smell on the glassware. At first it was lingering and then it became strong and gross - like rotten eggs. We called Bosch. They told us to change detergents. Same problem. Talked to Bosch - they said we needed to turn our water heater temp up. Same problem. Talked to Bosch - we needed to remount the drain hose an extra 6 inches higher than the instructions stated. Same problem. Talked to Bosch - we should rinse our dishes better (what?!!). Same problem. Talked to Bosch - our water must be too hard... Huh? We never had that problem before. Same problem. Bosch said we cook with too much oil. $%@$^@$%@$???? Every time we called to get help they told us some other goofy thing to blame something other than their dishwasher. The one solution we found was to put white vinegar in the washer when it was in the middle of the cycle - that made things liveable. We would go through a gallon of white vinegar every two weeks. Something we saw all the time was a gross, gooey sludge developed on the filter and the water that was left in the bottom of the dishwasher was dirty (high efficiency units leave a little water in the bottom under the cover). I would clean gooey yellow-orange-brown-sludge-butter-muck off the filter 3 times each week. Gross. No wonder the dishes smelled. About 6 months into the ordeal (mind you, we are eating on dishes that smell awful but appear clean) we call Bosch and tell them we have had it and we request that they replace the dishwasher. We have a one year warranty, right, and clearly there is some type of defect with this dishwasher. What did Bosch say? "Oh, I am sorry to hear of your problem, but we don't have any record of you having any concerns with this dishwasher." What?!!! All the calls from our home, that they logged our home number with and provided us a log number - yet none of that was in their system. So what now? We need to start a process with a service call to get things in order. Great! In my mind, another delay tactic. First service call: The repair man finds no problems - mechanically everything works (yep, we know). It took us 2 months to convince the service person there was a problem. At 10 months we were getting concerned that we were going to be stuck with this awful dishwasher so we called the reputable dealer where we purchased it. They told us "good luck, Bosch will never replace it." They were nice about it, but it was clear that others have had issues with Bosch and the company doesn't take care of their appliances under warranty. The good news - we did buy an extended warranty at the time of purchase. On the day the extended warranty kicked in we started a 3 month process to show the dishwasher was defective/unfixable. The repairman was helpful and within 3 visits noted that the unit was unrepairable. We received a check to replace the unit. We purchased and installed an LG dishwasher and all is well. Smell is gone, dishes are clean. The dishwasher has more space and has a soft food disposer (no more filter cleaning). Turns out it wasn't my water heater or hard water or too much oil or too little rinsing or the detergent.... All that stuff is the same and the LG cleans well and doesn't leave a rotten egg smell on the dishes. The reason I bought the LG washer was I read a review where a guy talked about researching appliance companies from the standpoint of how they treat their customers after the sale. His research showed that LG treats their product owners great. I researched the LG web site and found a lot of great resources and confirmed several of the points this gentlemen made. Then I contrasted that to the ridiculous way Bosch treated my family and me. In a nutshell - the Bosch dishwasher I purchased was defective and the bigger issue was Bosch as a company treated me and my family horribly as we were trying to fix and resolve the problem. My experience causes me to stay well clear of Bosch appliances.

I am regretting that I bought this Bosch B26FT70 French door refrigerator with bottom freezer from a non-amazon.com seller (appliancesconnection.com). This expensive appliance started making a loud humming noise intermittently, within 1 week after installation. When I called the warranty service the tech takes a whole 8 days to arrive just to tell me that he cannot hear anything wrong with the fridge and leaves. Called back for warranty service and was told that a specialist would look at it. Meanwhile the steel trim on the large shelve came off due to shoddy manufacturing. By now it is almost another week later and the specialist comes in and validates that the evaporator motor is defective. He is going to order the part and put it in when it arrives. And he said that the shelf has to be replaced because of the trim problem. This whole experience tells me that Bosch is just resting on its laurels. Their product is simply shoddy with multiple problems. Bosch's service is slow and unresponsive. They should not be expecting a customer of a premium appliance, specially a refrigerator that is so essential for today's household, to wait for weeks for warranty repairs on a brand new appliance. I will update this and let you know how long it finally took to get these issues resolved. My advice is to AVOID, AVOID, AVOID this shoddy product. My old inexpensive GE worked better for years, just threw it out only because we wanted matching appliances. Update on Feb 18, 2013, ********************* The saga continues, as per my previous review, this refrigerator started failing almost from the get-go. After numerous problems with loud rattles and falling off trim continued, now the fridge stopped cooling and is completely dead. I used to be a fan of Bosch, but I honestly cannot recommend this "top of the line" fridge to even my worst enemy. Bosch's service is another story, this fridge spoiled my food thrice due to misdiagnosis and refusal to take care of the issue. The fridge is currently non-operational for over a week. It takes several days for Bosch's service reps to even come and misdiagnose the issue. These so called experts have repeatedly misdiagnosed the problems. At this point I have an expensive boat anchor in my kitchen. Feel free to buy it if you can afford to live without your primary fridge for weeks at a time. I used to be a fan of Bosch, but I honestly cannot recommend this "top of the line" fridge to even my worst enemy. It takes several days for Bosch's service reps to even come and diagnose the issue. These so called experts have repeatedly misdiagnosed the problems. At this point I have an expensive boat anchor in my kitchen. Bosch's service is another story, this fridge spoiled my food thrice due to misdiagnosis and refusal to take care of the issue. The fridge is currently non-operational for over a week. Feel free to buy it if you can afford to live without your primary fridge for weeks at a time. Update on June 8, 2013 ************************ The nightmare continues. This expensive mistake stopped working again. Our first clue to a problem was the big puddle of water in the refrigerator trays and shelves. The puddles were from the melting ice from the ice maker. We soon realized that the refrigerator is not cooling and not operational. Another $150 of spilt food, thanks to Bosch! Called Bosch service again and went through the rigmarole of providing a dated receipt for the 3rd time -based on the number of times I had to call Bosch, I think they should know me and my fridge on a first name basis by now! The Bosch agent gave the contact information of local Bosch authorized service companies. Frankly I am dreading this call to the local service companies based on my previous experience with these guys. In my opinion the technicians are incompetent and unprofessional since it takes them multiple attempts to identify the real problem all the while I am sitting without a fridge and forced to pay high bills for restaurant food. Also, in my previous attempt to repair the fridge, the tech neglected to order the necessary part making us sit with this boat anchor for an additional few days. During my previous repair incident in Feb 2013, I asked Bosch to replace or refund the cost of the fridge since. Bosch was very unsympathetic to my request. Today, I have requested Bosch to replace my dead fridge again and I am waiting to hear from them. Question for the consumer lawyers amongst you: I feel cheated by Bosch, what are my options, legal and otherwise? Update on June 15, 2013 ************************ Week 2 and the fridge still not fixed. Bosch does not even bother!

I've had this fridge for about two weeks now and it's been really great. I bought it for my office and mostly to prevent me from eating out, so I had a few criteria. First, it had to be fairly small footprint, but large enough to store a good amount of real food, such as leftovers, some fruit & veg, and materials to make snacks with such as PB&J. Second, it had to have a real compressor, one that will cool well below the ambient temperature as the office building gets quite warm in the summer and I really hate when food goes bad. Third, I didn't want the unit to give up a bunch of space to a can delivery system, since I don't drink usually have canned drinks around. So, that's how I ended up at the SPT, it's the only one I found that fits all these criteria. I'd never heard of SPT before buying this fridge and quite honestly, if it had the same features as all the other fridges I'd seen (researched for two weeks), I probably wouldn't have bought it. However, given that it had everything I was looking for, I decided to take a chance and I'm glad I did. First, the aesthetics; it's a vertical rectangular shape, modestly attractive looking, basically it looks like a small black fridge with a stainless door. I was a bit surprised at the size, it's quite a bit taller than I was expecting and the black does makes it look a little monolithic. The unit actually looks bigger than it really is, I was shocked to find that it fits nicely under my desk. The Stainless Steel finish on the door isn't quite as polished as the vastly more expensive full-size GE fridge I've got at home, but I was pleasantly surprised at how good it looked, especially considering the price! This unit is solidly built and is surprisingly lightweight, which was great for moving it around the first day, figuring out where it should go. The door, as shipped, opens on the left, but it looked like a fairly simple job to switch sides (haven't needed to) and SPT included extra plastic inserts for covering up the holes should this be required, a nice touch. Door was protected with plastic film and all three shelves and the ice maker were taped down to prevent them sliding around. On to functionality; the fridge works! It got the four iced teas I put in it ice cold within only a few hours of being plugged in and I've got the unit set at 4, the factory preset median setting and it works great. Stuff down low in the fridge was kept nicely cold, the ham I put up near the icemaker had frost in the package, but the meat wasn't frozen. Note to self, meat goes lower in the fridge. The lower door shelf holds four Honest Tea bottles, but the wire holder swings out to hold bigger items. The top door shelf is a little shorter and has a fixed bar, so PB & J go up there. Inside shelves are made of white plastic-coated wire and well spaced. The freezer holds at least a trio of standard sized juice boxes; it's wide, but not very tall, so low items work best. One other extremely cool thing is, the energy consumption rating for this fridge is actually below the lowest range on the chart. This makes it extremely efficient, which isn't a factor for me, but I can see this being a plus for someone being challenged about its power consumption. Given how well it keeps my food cold, it must be very well insulated to achieve such low consumption. Things of note: 1) This unit only has one leveling foot, at the front right corner. This is probably not a problem for most people, but my office floor is as flat as a Ruffles potato chip, so levelling the fridge required shims under the front left foot. 2) Power cord is only about 5Ft long, once again, not a problem in most offices, but I would really have liked a longer one. Extension cord to the rescue. 3) Unit isn't silent, but it's not loud either. Some people have complained about other fridges being loud, I don't find this one to be unpleasant, it's like low-level white noise in the background. If I get in early, I can hear the fridge, but once the office wakes up, it's inaudible. 4) Unit came very well packed in an enormous box, strapped and taped closed. I was impressed, but I did have to lie the fridge on its side to get it out of the box. 5) This hasn't been a problem, but the manual says that should the fridge lose power, it won't come back on automatically.

We purchased an electric Bosch Vision series washer & dryer set(with pedestals) from Lowe's because it was a very good deal. I don't know if I have enough room here to express all the exasperating things about these machines, but will hit some of the low points for us. They are probably okay if you are a complete Nimrod, and want the standard settings on the machine to do the thinking for you, but I have been doing laundry many years now, and I know what temperature, cycle, etc. that I need to get certain clothes clean without ruining them- but with these units, you don't have options such as temp control (except on 2 cycle selections) or length of cycle. It does however, think that a choice of spin speed is vitally important, because you can change that on every cycle. It has a choice of several cycles which are pre-labeled for certain types of materials (e.g jeans, comforter) and a generic "Quick Full" and "Quick Light" cycles. I don't really know what temperature these wash in-(and unless you refer to the graph in the manual, you won't), so I only use them for those things that have been washed 1000 times before. Many cycles seem extra long-the Xtra Sanitary cycle is about 3 hours long when you add a stain cycle. And you may think I am kidding on this next thing, but the minutes during the countdown of a wash cycle are sometimes much longer than a minute. One time, a cycle had one minute left for 5 minutes- and this is not the same everytime- Seriously. Now, let me be straight, I have found nothing seriously adverse about the way they clean the clothes. That's pretty standard. The drying on the otherhand, takes some creativity on which cycle (usually cycles) to choose to get the stuff dry in the least amount of time. The end cycle signals are the MOST annoying feature. They ring incessently (okay, that's a lie...they do stop after sometime longer than 20 minutes of beeping about every 6 seconds). I haven't let the beep go on much longer than that, because it drives us crazy- but if you are trying to sleep or just can't get to the washer right away- it will drive your whole household insane until someone rushes in and opens the washer door to stop it. How many times do you have to be reminded that the wash cycle is finished? Once or twice would suffice, right? The dryer also has its own annoying cycle beeps- which can be changed if you want to. I am still figuring this out. Rinsing well seems to be a problem, and I only use 1-2 tablespoons of detergent, as recommended, even if you add the Allergy Rinse. Sometimes I set it for another "Quick" cycle just to rinse it. There is not a choice for rinse only. There is, however a Drain & Spin Only- which is useful if you feel you need it. This leads me to vibration mode. On Max Spin our whole house vibrates- sounds like a helicopter is hovering overhead. We have now opted to choose a lower spin speed each time we start another load, if we actually remember to do it. Tonight, the new irritant was this: Most washers/dryers have the option of changing the door opening based on how you have them arranged. We, after wrenching these two monster units into place in our newly remodeled laundry room, erroneously assumed we could switch the washer door opening, as we could on the dryer. Uh-uh. So now we have a washer that opens to the wrong side. Umm, what else? Oh, yes...the drying cycles (on the dryer of course) restart their time ALL OVER AGAIN if you happen to want to open the door to check on how your load is doing, or add another item. For example, if you have chosen a cycle that takes 60 minutes, and it's been running for 40 minutes- and you are wondering if your shirt is dry enough yet so you open the door to check on that shirt- and no, it's not dry enough so you throw it back in and close the door. The timer then automatically re-sets back to 60 minutes- (no kidding).You get to start all over again, or choose another cycle entirely. So, if I had enough money to give these away, and get another brand (like my old LG's), I would. If this helps someone else avoid some angst, then it has been worth my time.

I'm assuming mine is an earlier version of this one. It looks just like it except I don't have the pretty lights on the front (bummer). It certainly looks beautiful but it does have pluses & minuses. Pluses: love the adjustable racks and open spaces for large items; like the "bins" on the silverware holder so I can put small items in it & close the lid and not have them end up on the floor of the unit (to credit it - I've never had a single item end up on the floor of the machine); nice heavy duty stainless interior; quiet operation (although it seems louder now than when I purchased it, this may just be because the transition from my old machine was so noticeable, whereas, now I'm used to this one); unlike others, I love the way it dries, nothing warps or melts. Minuses: I don't know if it is the way my Pfaltzgraf dishes are made but they don't fit in the unit as well as in my old GE, the plates and bowls only stand up well on the rear rack/row of the machine, on the front side they roll out of position and then lean forward; similar problem with the glasses & cups, they only fit well on the first/outside rack, when I put them on the second row I have to hook them on prongs to fit them at all and then they are sort of staggered so it doesn't hold as many as it could; I have also had where the soap did not dispense correctly on a couple of occasions - I opened the door and the soap was globbed all around the dispenser, I do not know what caused this issue, I guessed maybe putting too much soap in, but I really don't know, I cleaned it up (the stainless interior cleans beautifully, btw) and re-ran it, a little aggravating, but I'm guessing it was something I did. My recommendation is to take your dishes into a showroom and test fit them before you make a purchase (hard to do on Amazon, lol), that's what I'm going to do when I buy another dishwasher. The salesman may think you're crazy but if it causes you to switch choices you will be glad you did. Update Sep 2012 - I've downgraded from 3 to 2 stars. I had some weird sensor message like E9 and the machine wouldn't work at all. I had to get a tech out, who then had to order a part and come back and install it. I had my old cheapy GE for almost 25 years and it never broke down. It even still worked when we replaced it so I'm extremely disappointed to have this one break down after less than 2 years. Update March 2013 - I'm downgrading this again. I'm sick and tired of having to rewash dishes that this machine doesn't clean. I realize rings dried on mugs from tea are more difficult to clean but my old cheap dishwasher managed, this one doesn't. I went without this machine for months (primarily because I didn't bother to call that's how little I missed it) while I waited for it to be fixed, and truthfully handwashing the dishes wasn't much different than using this dishwasher because I have so much prewash prep to do. I have to make sure there are no rings or debris on anything before I put it in or I have to do it by hand afterwards anyway. I make certain all of my silverware has a space between it and the next piece, and even then, if it had been used to slice a banana or for peanut butter the chances are it will need to be rewashed, and this is after washing for 3 hrs and 2 mins (I rarely ever use the regular wash which is 2 hrs 14 mins because it washes so poorly I figure it needs all the help it can get), so now I wipe my silverware before I put it in as well! Update Sep 2013 - It's been broken down for at least 3 months now and I haven't even bothered to call to get it fixed even though I bought an extended warranty. I'm probably secretly hoping the warranty runs out so I can buy another dishwasher. It really is less aggravating to just wash the dishes by hand than deal with the frustration of having to check each piece after washing for over 3 hours. If they had a zero rating I'd give it to this item, that's how bad it is. It really is a poorly designed/made machine. DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY!

First of all my attempt to purchase this was a challenge. One national retailer had an excellent price but although not mentioned on the web site as such it was a WEB only deal and the starting price of $629 was actually $699 in the store. The additional special savings to reduce it to $535 only worked if you had their credit card although they said it would also work if you applied for one....that was a bait and switch as it came with no price guaranty. While I have purchased from this retailer often in the past this will be my last purchase. Dealing with the mafia would have been easier. I got the $629 price walking in the door at Lowes. While I have only washed two loads they were both challenges and I am very happy with the results. To those who have criticized this washer in other reviews, one suggestion, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS!!! This is a new technology washer and it works different. The cycles operate in a manner that you have not heard before and they will seem strange. For example the tub seems to drain after a cycle but then the pump seems to run afterward. The tub is suspended differently so when it spins the washer moves around a lot as if it were slightly out of balance so put it on a solid floor and not pushed up tight against something. The tub does not fill with water but that doesn't matter if you follow the instructions and load it right, because the agitator plate seems to roll the clothes up, down and around. It does tend to knot things up a little, live with it. Does it cause wrinkles? Yes, especially if you set it to the highest spin cycle to get it the driest. I had no wrinkles that didn't smooth out in the dryer. As far as lint,another complaint of others, I never found my old washer did a very good job of that either but the dryer took care of it just fine always, that's why a dryer has a lint filter. I have only ran two loads and both were tests. I also have not used IE detergent yet as I still have a little cold water liquid Tide left. Since the cautions against using regular detergent deal with over sudsing I simply used less and had no problems. The first load was a medium load and it violated the Maytag suggestions as it mixed clothing types. The load included Dockers, blue jeans, dress shirts, socks and under garments. Nothing was overly soiled and all came out just fine. The Dockers, blue jeans and dress shirts were wrinkled and the shirts were twisted but all came out fine in the dryer. I ran the load at "Normal" setting and reduced the temperature to "Cold". My second load was a queen sized, quilt/comforter that was about 2 years old and had not been washed as it would not fit in my old washer and I hadn't taken it to a laundromat. I ran it as a bulky load and set the temperature to "cool", it came out great. While large and bulky I checked the load part way through due to all those reviews that suggested that some items never even got wet. When I checked the load part way through the cycle it was completely soaked! I had a couple of concerns after reading all of the comments on the WEB and reading the manual online at the Maytag site but I figured I could move it to a rental if it didn't work for me. One of my biggest concerns is that I have lots of iron in my water and if I wash in anything other than "Cold" water I can get massive rust stains on my clothes. Someplace in the manual I read that even with "Cold" settings the washer my add hot water. While that may be true I kept checking the hot hose during the cold load and it never warmed, so if you wash "Cold" like I do I can offer that in the "Normal" setting manually adjusted to "Cold" I used no hot water. When I ran the second load with the quilt I used the "Bulky" setting and adjusted the temperature to "Cool" and the soil setting to "Light". I was trying to determine if I could use this as an alternative solution to my iron stain problem. I checked the tub part way through the wash cycle and the water temperature was not warm enough to cause the iron oxidization that I had experienced even in the warm settings on my old washer. While two loads isn't a long history, both of these loads were out of the norm and I was very pleased with the results. Unless future loads uncover problems not yet apparent I give this washer a definite thumbs up. One last thing....READ THE INSTRUCTIONS!

YES!! Our dryer works again! And now it dries better than before. :) We moved a few years back, and the dryer here we don't know if it is 5 yrs. or 18 yrs. old. It seemed to take longer and longer to dry the clothes on the 'energy saver' moisture sensing (low-temp) cycle. Then one day, it stopped drying. I woke up in the early a.m. and heard the dryer running and thought my wife had done some early morning laundry? But later that day she said no, that was the load she put in around 9 p.m. the night before. So basically we had a nice 8 hrs. + of dry time, no heat. The lack of heat on that sensing cycle made the timer fail to advance. That is why at first I thought it might be the "high limit thermostat" so I ordered that. Then I figured it could help to have more parts. I then ordered this igniter, and some valve coils. I remember our furnace had the igniter wear out in the past, it is a sparkly electrical element that glows bright orange and gets HOT!! to ignite the gas. I figured if I had the dryer opened up, I might as well replace the coils too, to save labor later. Well, the parts came, so I was eager (sort of) to get it fixed. The starting is the hardest part, for sure. I watched a couple videos before about gas dryer repair, unplugged the wall outlet, unscrewed 2 screws by the lint trap, lifted off the top and unscrewed 2 more screws to take off the front. Holy cow, it had a lot of dust in there, so I did a lot of vacuuming. I couldn't find any gas shutoff on the flexible line coming into the dryer, so I moved everything carefully and didn't unhook any gas connections, obviously. I saw an internal shutoff screw on the gas control valve once I was in there, or I could have shut off the main house gas line too. I couldn't loosen the screw on the side of the igniter since it is close to the left side of the box, even with some channel locks, so I unhooked the belt and took the drum out. Then I vacuumed more. Oh, I also cleaned out the exhaust ducts and the top lint screen housing with brushes I bought in the past. By taking the drum out I could reach the gas control stuff in the front lower left side. I unscrewed the bracket for the igniter, and changed it to the new one, exact match. I also changed out the valve coils, they are easy, unplug the wire/clip thing from each one, unscrew the metal bracket holding them in, swap out with new ones, reconnect clips. It was a little tricky getting the drum back on, had to make sure the seal was not folded or overlapped wrong, then put the belt on and put it back on the rollers in back and the lower Z-roller/bracket thing in front. I rotated it around to get everything to seat properly, propped it up with a dumbbell. Then reinstalled the front, screws, the electrical wire harness clip to the housing, then the lid, the screws for the lint trap, then slid the whole thing carefully back onto the ductwork and laid on the floor to wiggle it nice and snug to seal well. Then I plugged it back in, and now it WORKS! Hallelujah. And now the clothes dry better, we can set it for at least 1 line less dry time versus before. So if your gas Whirlpool dryer is not working/heating I'd recommend buying all 3 parts, but be sure to NOT TOUCH the igniter - your skin oils will make it fail/wear out rapidly. I am not an expert, I watched a couple videos (thank you repair clinic dot com!! ), reviewed setup info, prayed for wisdom and safety, and I'd guess it took me about 1.5 hrs. to get the whole process done, this included setting up tools, lights, labor, a lot of vacuuming up dust and crud. :) I also took my time to be sure to everything correctly. OH - and I used my camera to take several pics to be sure I'd 'reinstall' things just like they were before, as a 'backup precaution.'

Don't be scared off by the negative reviews because we are THRILLED with this dishwasher! Our dishwasher of 5 years recently died and we really wanted one that would LAST this time. I did a ton of online research (and interviewed some friends concerning their experiences with dishwashers) and found that the Bosch brand is one of the best as far as longevity. We got this one from the Ascenta series because it was one of the most affordable models. I'm so glad we got it. My husband was able to install it himself without any problems. We've had it for several months (UPDATE: We've had it for nearly a year) and haven't had ANY issues. It looks nice (and the exterior doesn't seem to pick up tons of fingerprints, etc.). It has plenty of settings without being overwhelming: Heavy wash, auto wash, normal wash and half load. You also have the option to sanitize the dishes with a super hot rinse. There is a button to turn it on and off and lights that tell you if an active wash is going, if the dishes are clean, if they are sanitized and if you need rinse aide. You can also delay the start for 3, 6 or 9 hours. All of the buttons are clearly marked and nothing is the least bit confusing. The door automatically closes if it's a certain distance away from the counter and it has no problem latching. I really like the dish detergent dispenser. Unlike our old dishwashers that had a hinged door (that invariably wouldn't close after awhile or would clog with half used detergent) - this one has a slide down door that works perfectly. We use dishwasher detergent tabs and not a single one has clogged or caused problems. There is also a dispenser you can fill with rinse aide. You open a little door and just pour it in there to the fill line. A dispenser light comes on -on the front panel, when you need to refill it. When the dishwasher is running it's very quiet. Not so quiet that you can't hear it, but you can comfortably converse and sometimes I have to check...is it still on because I don't notice it. You can hear some trickling water sounds like when it first starts and when its actively spraying. Now for the important part: Does it clean?? YES. It does the BEST job of any dishwasher I've EVER had. The dishes come out sparkling. We have very hard water so our previous dishwashers never got our dishes very clean. The dishes always came out spotted at the very least. Sometimes we would even have to rewash dishes. You'd have to practically wash the dishes before putting them in the dishwasher. Not anymore. Every dish, including the silverware, comes out squeaky clean. We've never had anything plastic melt either (as we have had happen with other dishwashers where the heating element was really close to the bottom rack). You can pack dishes in (as we've done a few times) thinking it might be iffy if some of them come out totally clean due to weird angles or whatever - but no, every time everything has come out perfect! We always use the auto wash and sanitize (with rinse aide). I'm SO happy to have a dishwasher finally work the way it's supposed to, even with our horrible hard water. The Bosch also does a great job drying the dishes. Except for the few cups with concave surfaces in the bottom, everything comes out really dry and I don't have to have a dish towel to wipe things off like I used to with our old dishwasher. As to what other reviews have said about the dishwasher being awkward to load, my daughter would agree. However, *I* really like the layout and the prongs are spaced perfectly for my type of dishes. There are some adjustments you can make with prongs that will lay flat. The silverware holder also has some "doors" that flip up that can hold your silverware apart for good cleaning or be used to hold in little lids or things like that - that would otherwise fly around the dishwasher. This dishwasher has no problem holding all the dishes for a family of 4 for dinner plus some from earlier in the day like breakfast/lunch. I'm so glad I spent hours of online research and went with this dishwasher. We are extremely happy with it. UPDATE: After having this dishwasher for nearly a year, it still is performing wonderfully, even with our hard water issues. The interior has NOT scaled up with minerals as our previous dishwashers have and the dishes still come out sparkling and clean every time. This is truly the best dishwasher we've ever had.

My situation related to the cable breaking on one side only. What I received was the old style cable with the hockey stick shaped attachment on the cable ends with the red striped cables. The cables AND connector were pretty much an exact match with the original on my 8 year old KitchenAid dishwasher. My repair was very successful. No squeaking or creaking. My repair went as follows: I was actually able to replace the one cable without having to pull out the dishwasher since only the cable needed replacing. I took the advice of others and did not replace the rollers, left the old ones on since they were not broken. 1 - I first turned off the circuit breaker to the dishwasher at the panel. I checked that the dishwasher would not operate. 2 - I then removed the bottom front panels to gain access to the underside of the dishwasher while it was still installed. 3 - I was able to see fairly well under the dishwasher to where the spring was (it had actually come unhooked from the hole in the frame), as well as to fish out the broken cable and connector. 4 - In my case the cable connector broke (the plastic tab) and not the cable itself. Had to replace the whole cable attachment of course though. 5 - I was able to reach my arm under the dishwasher and hook the spring back onto the hole in the frame. At the same time I hooked the end of the new cable onto the other end of the spring (the end closest to the front of the dishwasher of course). So now the new cable end is hooked up to the dishwasher and I need to find a way to pull the cable around the pulleys and hook it up to the dishwasher door hinge. **So from this point forward, the new cable end is already hooked onto the end of the spring.** 6 - Then (and I think this is an important part) I used some string to stretch the spring to give me some slack to hook the new cable around the wheels and the connector onto the door hinge! I didn't grab the cable itself with Vise Grips! 7 - I looked at some other reviews where people said they used vice grips to grab the cable itself to give them enough slack to wind the cable around the wheels. I don't think this is a good idea at all !!!! I have to believe you might damage the cable itself from the teeth of the vise grips. Plus it has to be pretty tricky to hold the cable and thread it at the same time (basically impossible if you don't pull the dishwasher out as well, which was my situation). 8 - So what I did was take some garden twine and double it up so that I had an open loop on the end ( I didn't put a knot in the end of the loop since I wanted to cut it later to pull the string out) . I actually used a double thickness of garden twine so that I had two separate open loops of twine (two loops of twine mean the twine is less likely to break when you pull on it). 9 - I then tied a closed loop in the other end of the garden twine such that I could put a screwdriver through the loop and form a T-shape that you could pull. You don't have to tie a loop, but I found it held all the string together nicely on the end and made a nice small hole to put the screwdriver in. 10 - I then reached under the dishwasher and placed the open loops of the twine around the end of the spring just above where I had looped the new cable onto it, and fed the rest of the length of the twine out to where we could get our hands on the closed loop. We then put a thick screwdriver through the closed loop to form the T-shape and my wife gently pulled on the twine, stretching the spring. 11 - This gave me enough slack to wind the cable successfully around the wheels and fit the connector over the dishwasher hinge point without any effort at all! Easy as pie. 12 - My wife then slowly released the tension on the twine and the spring relaxed and the cable stiffened up. 13 - I was then able to cut the open ended loops of garden twine and pull them out from under the dishwasher. 14 - Closed up the bottom panel on the dishwasher and flipped the circuit breaker back on. Total time about 45 minutes. 30 minutes trying to figure out how to tension the spring successfully. In all honesty, I did get a few scratches on my arms reaching under the dishwasher, but nothing of any consequence. I would wear long sleeves if I did it again. Suggest you remove watches and rings as well if you want to try this. Hope this helps.

This Bosch DW replaced a brand-new GE that was basically DOA with failure to close, three service calls with a fourth pending. It was cheaply made and rather than replacing it after the second service call we were pushed to accept a third and fourth call for the same exact issue. Terrible customer relations. I would never buy another GE dishwasher. Bosch SHE3ARF2UC pros: 1. Made solidly. You can tell the engineering was well thought out and implemented unlike the GE. 2. Stainless steel tub with polypropylene bottom and a manual filter. This aspect eliminates noise of the grinding and pump to achieve the 50 dB it advertises. 3. Cleans dishes amazingly well. You can set the amount of jet dry solution from off to 5. We have our set 3. 4. Superb selection of wash cycles. We love the express as it only takes 30 minutes. In a two-person household with minimal dishes throughout the day, the unit is only 1/2-3/4 full by the evening. As one reviewer commented, you do not want to use excess amounts of dishwashing powder. 1 tablespoon suffices for this size load. Never fill the cup unless it is jammed full and the dishes and pots are heavily soiled. We always prerinse and scrape our dishes. 5. After the Express 30 minutes cycle, we allow the dishes to dry with the door closed for the first half hour then open up and pull out the racks to dry overnight. There is always a little water on the bottom of the cups turned upside down. A quick dab with a dishtowel prior to replacing in the drawer/cabinet is all that is needed. Silverware is sparkling clean and glasses are spot and streak free. It is probably best not to use any of the DW gels in this unit. Cons: 1. Capacity may be a little small for a household of 4-6 people. You would likely have to run this unit twice a day. You may want to opt for a bigger cabinet. 2. While some bemoan the lack of a track for the wheels on the bottom rack, that's simply a matter of getting used to. There is a nice convenient handle that sticks up in the center of the rack and you should use that to pull the rack out and push it back in. It tracks perfectly well that way. It would appear to me that trying to engineer some tracks for the wheels would introduce crevices that reduce the efficiency of the washing and allow for moisture accumulation and therefore odors. I like it the way it is. The present design therefore is not a con in my opinion. 3. The only beef we have is the design of the racks. It is supposed to be "the European design" whatever that is. There are very narrow tines and some that are not so narrow at right angles. The upper rack has an indentation in the front that actually removes some of the capacity. It is designed as a handle to pull and push the rack in and out of the cabinet. The upper rack in the back has female openings into which male openings in the back of the cabinet would fit for introducing the water pressure to spin the spray arm underneath the upper rack. It is really an ingenious design and apparently works quite well if the upper rack is restored to its proper position before closing the door. All in all, a terrific machine. Hinges have some springs on it to allow positional opening as well as rapid closure of the door. The clasp for closing is secure and engineered beautifully compared to that GE dog with it's plastic clasp and the cheap hinges attached to thin metal frames. Take it from us, get a Bosch but don't buy a $1500 model with all the bells and whistles. $600-$800 is plenty of machine for most of us. Well we did not buy it through Amazon, we got it through a local bricks and mortar, privately held appliance Center but even then paid over $350 more than we should have as we got no benefits from installation rebates or store credits as we would have from a local big box store. Mom-and-pop appliance stores want to compete and what they have to offer is superior service and personal interest in its customers. When they fail in that respect and in getting your repeat business, they are not worthy of your future business. Such was our scenario for nearly 4 months dealing with the defective GE DW with the local dealer. Finally we got the unit removed and a replacement ordered and installed only after many weeks of dealing with GE customer (non-) service and the local dealers business office.

This defrost thermostat was relatively easy to install once I was able to access the part. Our refrigerator was not maintaining the correct temperature, even though our freezer was staying cold. We have the Electrolux Ikon french door refrigerator, model E23BC78IPS0. First I pulled the refrigerator out of the cabinet and carefully removed the back panel to take a look. The condenser coils were free of dirt and dust. The condenser fan was running. In addition, the compressor was vibrating and warm to the touch. I assumed the start relay switch was ok since the compressor was on. Since everything seemed to be working well in the back, I decided to take a look at the evaporator coils and evaporator fan in the freezer. The parts are located at the back of the freezer, so I had to take out all of the food. I used the following hand tools to access the compartments: - phillips head screwdriver (to remove panels) - 1/4 nut driver (to remove panels) - 3/8 nut driver (to remove the bottom freezer door which allows better access to the parts) I found the evaporator coils frozen over (see photo) and the defrost thermostat looked busted (see photo). In addition, the evaporator fan wasn't running so at first I thought that might be broken as well. But, the fan turned on after I pushed the button that senses if the door is closed, so that wasn't the problem. At this point, I ordered the new defrost thermostat and unplugged the refrigerator and let it defrost overnight. Once the freezer was defrosted, I cut the two wires about an inch from the defrost thermostat. I unclipped the defrost thermostat and removed it. One of the wires had a white molex on its other end which connected to the defrost heater (on the right side of the freezer). I pushed the molex tab to disconnect it. The other wire had a pink Gardner Bender fully insulated disconnect. This male/female pair does disconnect, but with a little effort and care not to pull the wires out. Once disconnected, I stripped 1/4 from the wire end of each of these wires, keeping the connectors to be reused with the new defrost thermostat. Note that I didn't check the defrost thermostat for continuity before removing it because it was obviously physically ruptured. But, if you weren't sure if it was bad, you could check it for continuity first. You would need to do that before defrosting the freezer or you would need access to a freezer to put it in to test it as it needs to be at 25 F in order for it to activate (47-22 as indicated on the part). Ice water does not work for testing as it is not cold enough. While I was waiting for the new defrost thermostat to arrive, I also checked the defrost heater (attached to the defrost thermostat at the molex end) and the thermistor (located on the left of the freezer behind a small plastic cover) for continuity. Both were fine, but I am glad I checked them because I didn't want to go through taking everything apart again if the defrost thermostat wasn't the only problem. To install the new defrost thermostat, I needed the following: - wire cutter/stripper - 2 wing nut wire connectors - silicone sealant The new defrost thermostat wires need to be spliced to the wire with the molex and the wire with the GB disconnect. To do this, I put one of the wires from the new defrost thermostat and the wire with the molex into a wing nut wire connector and twisted it to connect. I put the other wire from the new defrost thermostat and the wire with the GB disconnect into a wing nut wire connector and twisted it to connect. I put just enough silicone sealant into the wing nuts to cover the wires to protect them against moisture from the freezer. I had to wait 30 minutes for the silicone sealant to set. I installed the new part by attaching the GB disconnect side first, then clicking the molex into place on the other side. Finally, I clipped the default thermostat into place. Ive added a photo of the new default thermostat installed. I ended up deciding to do this myself because the first refrigerator repair person that we contacted came over and said that he didn't know what was wrong and couldn't help us and the second repair person that we contacted said he wouldnt be able to come by for 3-4 days. I hope this helps!

This machine is surprisingly quiet compared to our previous Whirlpool Gold (Quiet Partner III) tall-tub model (about 10 years old), and the capacity is about the same. We are pleased with it overall, but having lived with it for a few months, we note the following quirks (or maybe they are actually ingeniously designed "Features" that should have names?) - "Rinse them Yourself" feature. In other words, shockingly, there is no traditional Rinse and Hold feature. This is surprising given that this machine is almost at the top of Whirlpool's line-up. It's also difficult to "make your own" rinse-and-hold, (ie., let the dishwasher fill, rinse and drain, then cancel the whole cycle), because it's too quiet to know for sure what it's doing. - "Mystery Pulse" motor/pump. It's probably "okay," but the motor runs in several "pulses" (about half a second each) before starting the cycle. Probably it's priming the drain pump, or centering the motor shaft, or something...but the fact that it never seems to pulse the same number of times twice, or at the same times, does make you wonder what the heck it's doing. In the case of the beginning rinse cycle, the various pulses are then followed by a bizarre pattern of starts/stops. Hard to believe it can rinse better by constantly interrupting itself...but...the dishes do come out clean. - "Auto Fall" silverware basket falls automatically, and spills its contents, if you try to pull out the bottom rack by the attached silverware basket. Very tempting to do so because the basket's great big handle is front-and-center when you open the door. You have the option of mounting the basket on the door, much more securely, but then the silverware doesn't get as clean because one side of the mesh basket is blocked. - "Mystery Attach" silverware basket provides hours of brain-teasing amusement as family members try to reattach it to the front of the bottom rack, by two tiny positioning pegs. The rack and the basket are not perfectly square, so you have to "flex" the basket a little while positioning one peg at a time--making this operation a painstaking, two-handed effort every time. And every time is "often" due to the "Auto Fall" feature described above. Everyone in the family, from know-it-all teenagers to frail grandmothers, have complained about this "feature." - "Find the Slot" silverware sorting game. The top of the basket has snap-in guides to hold various pieces of silverware--evidently to keep them from "nesting" and not getting clean. Given the limited number of slots, and the fact that silverware with slightly large handles only receive a few slots, you will probably tire of this game soon. To end it, you can snap out the guides and toss them aside--just like the stemware holders in the top rack that take up way too much space on a day to day basis. This is an Energy Star model, so if you choose any of the "eco" friendly settings, be prepared for lesser levels of performance, especially in drying. When researching a new dishwasher, I saw a lot of reviews for all makes complaining about slow wash cycles and lack of dry dishes. Well, that appears to be "life with Energy Star efficiency." You must use the scorch-the-earth, "high heat dry" option to get anything near traditional dishwasher results, and even then, Whirlpool's literature tells you that you MUST use a rinse aid to get anything near satisfaction in drying. Also, if you're an owner of an older model, be prepared for marathon run times (necessitating the great sound insulation). Like most low-water consumption models, this thing will run for MANY HOURS (6 or more is possible) while using a small amount of water and high-performance detergent to wash your dishes. That's true of any make, but if you haven't bought a dishwasher in a while, be prepared! If you rinse your dishes well and want them done in a hurry, there is a one-hour wash cycle, but again, expect to dry them yourself for the most part. The build quality is very good, with the exception of the silverware basket, and the stainless steel tub liner is very nice. My DIY installation was a snap, although I had to convert an old 1/2" water supply line with compression fittings to the new, apparently standard 3/8" fitting. An elbow fitting is provided. Your Home Depot or Lowe's will have whatever parts you might need for such conversions from older type supply lines/connectors.

The "Ides of March" (well, one day later) is a perfect time to warn anyone considering the purchase of this washer about the multitude of problems it will introduce into your laundry routine (which you can read about in reviews of other Whirlpool Cabrio models on Amazon and elsewhere). But here is a quick summary, which should be all you need to run screaming from this machine: 1) Clothing wrinkled like aluminum foil that has been balled up and opened (If you prefer to hang the majority of your clothes like I do, you'll want to get your iron ready); 2) Items coming out of the washer with dirt and stains remaining, as well as with lint and even, possibly, small holes (like the one in a fleece blanket I washed on the "delicate" cycle, or the one in my daughter's shirt that I made the mistake of washing on "normal," even though that is the appropriate setting for a sturdy cotton fabric; 3) Cycles that take at least an hour on average (so forget squeezing in a load before heading out the door or to bed); 4) The need to carefully load your clothes "doughnut style" around a washplate without letting any fall into the center; 5) A moldy smell that can develop if you don't run a special cleaning cycle every month or so--or, as I've heard, even if you do; 6) Operational problems and poor customer service from Whirlpool. I can't comment on the last two items personally, since I am one of the people the reviewer above refers to, who fortunately replaced my disappointing Cabrio with a Speed Queen, the only fully mechanical, American-made (to last!) washer left on the market. (Speed Queen's main competitor used to be Maytag, until they were bought by none other than a company that begins with W.) My Speed Queen AWN412 is a complete 180 degrees from the Cabrio in every way. It looks and sounds like my grandmother's circa 1960 washer (complete with simple dials and a pull knob) and it functions like it, too, washing clothes thoroughly, without undue wrinkling and in half the time the Cabrio would take. Just beautiful. Like my fellow reviewer said, don't be fooled by appearances and a fancy platinum panel of electronic buttons that are far more likely to malfunction--or the quiet, high tech noise that belies new but unimproved technology. It doesn't matter what your washer looks like--just that it cleans your clothes well. If you can't stand the traditional sounds of an agitator churning away, just turn up some music or sing Hallelujah that you don't have a high efficiency washer attempting to spin the dirt off your clothes at warp speeds. The bottom line, as I learned the hard way (and paid for, with a steep 20% restocking fee from a local appliance dealer--despite being oversold on the Cabrio), is that you simply need a tub full of water and an agitator to clean clothes properly (and there are multiple settings on the Speed Queen so that you can match that water level to your load size). The government regulations that led to this new "green," low-water technology may be well-intentioned, but they are nonetheless misguided. As much as liked my previous Maytag, it died after 7 years--which is probably longer than I would have gotten out of the Cabrio. So to echo what a Speed Queen reviewer wrote on Amazon, the savings on energy and water with high efficiency washers is completely negated by the energy from manufacturing plants polluting our environment as they create appliances that break so quickly and end up in landfills. Not to mention having to rewash clothes that aren't clean, doubling the amount of water/energy use, and having to prematurely replace clothes that are destroyed. Or the increased use of your dryer--and iron--to remove wrinkles. Or the need for toxic cleaning agents to prevent mold (which undercuts the use of natural and organic products). So, it turns out, "high efficiency" does not equal "green" when it comes to washing machines, and it certainly doesn't equal "effective." To those who are in the market for a new washer, do yourself a favor and pass on the flashy HE models. And to those who are stuck with one--Good Luck and God Speed (Queen)!

The wavy metal washer goes on the dryer spindle first, then the drum roller, then the beige fiber washer, then the snap ring. You are then done. The dryer drum does NOT need to be completely removed from the machine in order to access the two rollers (and yes replace them both) you will be replacing. Simply lift the drum up and forward towards you slightly until you see the rollers, then gently lay it down in the dryer. When you have replaced both rollers, just gently lift it back up and back onto the felt at the back of the machine. Check the drum belt to make sure that it is in the running position, which is 2 inches in FRONT OF (towards the front dryer door) of the mounting groove on the dryer drum, SMOOTH side of belt down. If the belt has slipped into the groove, pull the belt out of the groove towards you and on to the drum. The spindle, although it is supplied, should not need to be replaced unless yours is badly grooved. If it is slightly scratched, gently sand it with some very fine sandpaper or emery cloth&nbsp;<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/EZ-FLO-45205-Waterproof-Emery-Cloth-Blue/dp/B00838J94O/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">EZ-FLO 45205 Waterproof Emery Cloth, Blue</a>&nbsp;, then clean the spindle thoroughly with a rag and rubbing alcohol. Clean the dryer spindle thoroughly before mounting your new drum roller even if you do not sand. DO NOT lubricate the spindle at all, it should be clean and free of debris. To get the old snap ring off of the spindle, use a flat tipped screw driver and pry it off - you will not be using it again. Also, the snap ring supplied with the assembly bends easily, and then does NOT snap back closed well (it needs to be very tight) - I recommend&nbsp;<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/300-Piece-Snap-Ring-Shop-Assortment-18-Sizes/dp/B000K7GREQ/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">300-Piece Snap Ring Shop Assortment - 18 Sizes</a>, and I used one of these snap rings instead of the one supplied, as they are much sturdier and the holes are big enough to accommodate the tip of a snap ring plier which you must have, or else the job will be a mess. Use the one supplied as a guide to select one from the other assortment I mentioned, that way you'll know which size to use (use it as a template). I purchased this snap ring plier set a year ago&nbsp;<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/TEKTON-3576-Internal-External-Snap-Ring-Pliers-Set-4-Piece/dp/B000NPR2P8/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">TEKTON 3576 Internal / External Snap Ring Pliers Set, 4-Piece</a>&nbsp;and I have used it quite a bit in addition to the snap ring set assortment. My 21 year old Maytag dryer now runs like new and is perfectly quiet. Before, it was squealing horribly, and lubricating the rollers will do absolutely nothing - it stops the noise for awhile, and then it comes right back. The wavy metal washer supplied is exactly the same used by Maytag when I bought the dryer, and I would stick with the wavy metal washer as supplied in this kit. The wavy metal washer lasted 21 years. Also, keep your older dryers and washers, especially if they are Maytag, and fix them up. They will last for at least another 20 years, as the tubs were made of steel, and now they are plastic. Simply write the model number from your machine on a piece of paper, type just the model number into Amazon, and click search. Most of your parts needed will come up, with their pictures. This company also had this part assembly to me in only 3 days. A wonderful experience all around.

I've owned a Max Burton 6000 induction (1800 watts) for over 2 years; it's a much better option. I mainly use a portable induction burner for cooking outside; if you are cooking something stinky like deep frying oil or it's summer & you're craving pasta but don't want to warm up the kitchen or you're grilling and want to warm a sauce or side dish. We also like to use it on the deck in the summer for making pancakes. We eat breakfast outside frequently & it's really convenient to set it up on the table while cooking batches of pancakes. So to test this Nesco (1500 watts), we took it out on the deck to make pancakes. We use a Lodge cast iron pancake skillet/griddle. This skillet is 10.5 inches outside measurement/10 inches inside cooking measurement so should be a good test. To test the evenness in cooking, we poured pancake batter to near the edge of the pan, leaving a little space for turning. This Nesco did a terrible job at cooking evenly. Even though the circle (cooking zone) is 10 inches, the pan did not get hot enough to the edge so we had a gummy/white pancake & a very overdone center where the element is under the pan. We tried again, fiddling with the temperature level & making a small pancake in the center. That was better but this would be annoying to make 1 small pancake at a time & it needed constant watching/adjusting of the temperature. **See photo of pancake above. There is very little fine tuning in the temperature selection. You choose between 5 "Cooking Modes"; Melt/Warm, Simmer, Boil, Fry & Sear. My Max Burton has 10 cooking levels which I discovered is important if you're doing anything other than boiling water. On level 2 (Simmer) it is too cool and on level 3 (Boil) it is too hot; the food burns. Having only 5 cooking levels is not enough for items that need specific heat control. Even though the circle (cooking zone) is 10 inches, the pan did not get hot enough to the edge to cook evenly. With a strong backlight, I could see and measure the induction element; it is approximately 7 inches in diameter. When no pan is present, it beeps at you, a helpful feature. However, after initially beeping quickly at me, it behaved oddly and after I held a pan away from it for 30 seconds it never beeped. Either it wasn't actively heating (on level 2) or it decided not to beep. I started to question the beeping accuracy /effectiveness. I also tested it boiling water & in that it does a very good/fast job. So if you're just using this to warm liquids such as water, soup, oil for deep frying; it will probably suffice. If you want to cook something evenly, look elsewhere. Induction cooking requires a magnetic pan. To test your pans, put a magnet on the bottom. If the magnet sticks, your pan will work on induction. If it doesn't stick, it won't get hot & you need to choose another pan. A cheap refrigerator magnet is included with this cooktop. Handy if you're going shopping for new pans but most people probably already own a magnet or two so not really a selling point. <a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/Max-Burton-6000-1800-Watt-Portable-Induction-Cooktop-Black/dp/B000MVN1M6/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">Max Burton 6000 1800-Watt Portable Induction Cooktop, Black</a>&nbsp;A much better choice. <a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/Lodge-Logic-L9OG3-Pre-Seasoned-10-1-2-Inch-Round-Griddle/dp/B00008GKDN/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">Lodge Logic L9OG3 Pre-Seasoned 10-1/2-Inch Round Griddle</a>&nbsp;My cast iron pancake griddle; works great on other cooktops.

This is a dishwasher part which connects the dish rack to the chassis of the machine. First, the part snaps onto the rack. Next, the connection is made via two plastic wheels(on the part) which ride in an aluminum rail(attached to the inside of the dishwasher box). The fitment is fine and the part works as promised. Failure! The entire part is made of plastic. The wheels are attached to the part with plastic prongs. The prongs break and the wheels come off the part. Now your dish rack is sagging and you're scratching your head, "Why?". I literally go through 2 of these parts per year. In fact, I buy one in advance and keep it for the next eventual failure. I can change that thing out faster than the Maytag man! A man knows no fury like a woman whose dishwasher is broken! But I digress. If you need this part, you probably need these parts also! I have found that if you replace the part with broken or missing clips, IT WILL FAIL QUICKLY. positioner W10195840 http://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-W10195840-Positioner/dp/B00DZUB24A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1404307408&sr=8-3&keywords=W10350376 $15 adjuster W10195839 http://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-W10195839-Adjuster/dp/B00ECV65W0/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_zS $16 clip lock adjuster arm W10250160 http://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-Part-Number-W10250160-CLIP-LOCK/dp/B008DJNMLO/ref=pd_sim_hi_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=03357F2BD3JNA6CH5237 $16 ********** The rest of this is my rant and experience with dishwashers. I have a Kitchenaid KUDS301XWHO dishwasher. I have had nothing but trouble with it since I bought it. Although we wash the dishes before loading them into the machine, they have never and will never, come out clean. Every year the machine pretty much stops working and needs a repair. If you buy one, I definitely recommend the extended service contract. I'd buy another machine tomorrow if I thought it would be better. Sadly, our government and the manufacturer nations have conspired against us. Not so long ago, you could buy a Kitchenaid machine and it would last at least 20 years. It was loud. You could hear it all through the house. Indeed, you could feel it rumbling under your feet! You couldn't hear the TV when it was on, LOL. It ran for an hour, the dishes came out too hot to handle and they actually came out clean. In contrast, our new machine is very quiet. While you can definitely hear it while it's running, it's not much louder than the refrigerator which stands next to it. First and foremost, the "dish washer" doesn't! When the cycle is done, the dishes come out crusted and dirty. Any water the machine saves is surely lost by our pre-washing the dishes by hand. The new machine is always broken. I have already done more repairs on mine in three years than we did on older models in 25 years time. Ditto, my comments from above. The cost for the 4 parts above(to replace one side of a broken rack)total about $75. These parts are not covered by the warranty. I repaired the food chopper myself and recently, we had the touch pad, pump and motor replaced on our 3 year old machine! The new machine's cycles run forever! This is especially annoying when I'm entertaining and need to run a wash between courses. Impossible. Also, the machine has no rinse/hold cycle. I like the rinse/hold cycle because it does what it says . . . rinse the plates to wash them later, or tomorrow. So, I can rinse the plates by hand then load them into the machine or just run a 3 hour wash cycle for a machine that's half full or less. Ridiculous.

The BEST $200 (including shipping) I've ever spent! Wish I'd found and done it sooner. The day it arrived I washed everything even remotely considered dirty because I was so glad to finally get clean clothes. Let me tell you, the rinse water was gross for at least 2 rinses. I know my clothes are clean and I'll be using this for as long as it lasts. I should make my money back in 5 wash-days, as I don't have a car, so I had to take a cab to the laundromat. Between the cab there and back, and the rolls of quarters, I probably spent $50 every time I went. I've never been so excited to do laundry! Yeah it's a girl thing! Ok, here's the scoop on all the tips out there; believe me, I read every single one to make sure I wasn't buying a piece of junk that was going to break in one or two uses. If you follow these instructions, you'll be all set: (These are a compilation of all the good reviews and helpful tips out there) I fill the washer with water(only half way up the blue filter) and add 1 Tablespoon HE detergent ONLY (and bleach if I have whites), place the clothes in, wash for 9 minutes, drain wash side, spin dry the clothes for 3 minutes, fill the washer again with plain water (and add fabric softner if hang drying), add the spun dried clothes again to the washing tub, wash again for another 9 minutes, drain, spin dry again for 3 minutes, then finally hang dry them. A tip on how much detergent, bleach and fabric softner to use: I add one tablespoon (15ml) of detergent, 1/8 cup (30ml) of bleach and 1/8 cup (30ml) of fabric softner. I know this does not sound like much but if you add too much detergent the water will just "sud up" and when you drain the washing tub it will be full of suds. If you add too much bleach you clothes will smell all "bleachy". For the fabric softner you could add more but I feel it is enough and would be a waste if you use more. Last tip get a lint brush, the lint trap traps little lint and that is if it stays in place. After you put some clothes in the spin dryer as instructed, attach the hose to the RIGHT HOLE... yes, we are going to use this mystery hole if its the last thing we do!! and turn on the water..add a bit of fabric softener (optional) and close it. Keep the water running... that's right.. running for a couple of minutes.. this will get out all the extra soap. Now , shut the water off and let the spin cycle continue, adding extra time if needed. When you set the unit to drain, water in both basins will drain out. I run the wash cycle, and move the fill hose to the dryer side. I then run the 5 minute dryer cycle, and add water a couple of times during the process until the run off isn't soapy or dirty. Then I run another 5 minute dryer cycle. On to spin rinsing. When a load is done washing, distribute it in the spinner, turn the spin timer on with the door open (starts the pump) and run faucet water into the spinner for a minute. Then close the spin door and let it spin until water stops coming out. For some users the job is done. I prefer an agitation rinse, back in the wash tub briefly with fresh water then back in the spinner. Put delicates or anything with long arm sleeves or legs into a sturdy/durable wash bag. I bought the 220 Micron Zipper bag for 5 gallon Mini Washing Machine, available here on Amazon. They get badly tangled otherwise, or worn too easily from the hard agitation. You also want to purchase a Floating Washing Machine Filter Bag to collect all the lint that would otherwise stay on all your nice clean clothes. The blue plastic filter doesn't do such a hot job. That's it folks. Easy peasy and you've got clean clothes. They honestly mean when they say 1 tablespoon HE laundry detergent. Otherwise you'll have too many suds and be rinsing forever til the water comes clean. Oh, and the machine is bigger than I expected, which was a nice surprise but did not fit under my bathroom sink like I thought it would. I hook up the water hose to my kitchen sink, and hook the drain hose over my tall kitchen trash can for the water to drain into. Then I just dump the trash can water into the sink after each load.

Many reviews; the favorable ones are right, the unfavorable may have misunderstood what they were buying. Manual washer supplies the power, the operator supplies the attention. Tucks away when not in use, almost anyone can pick it up, machine is small (tape-measure the dimensions to get an idea). The spinner is not a "dryer" as some seem to have expected, it spins water out like any washer only more effectively than most. I bought the XPB45, half again greater capacity, identical design and operational characteristics. I hope Amazon makes this model available in the near future, I much prefer buying from Amazon than other online retail platforms. Since the only difference between the -36 and -45 is a couple t-shirts, the use 'tips and tricks' are the same for both. Few are familiar with twintub operation. The included instructions are skeletal. I learned from Grandma on her Easy in 1953. First, tape the drain hose to the sink with packing tape. Or clamp it under the toilet seat. Guess why I said that first, LOL. The pressure will make it want to escape. It won't hurt anything but can make a mess, might as well avoid that. Next, UNDERload the washer so everything moves freely. Much better results with 2 small loads than one excessive one. (Actually true of any washer, particularly evident with a small one.) Use HE/low suds detergent. Use body-temp water (100F) unless fabric says 'cold'. The temp limit for these machines is 120F. Some reviews mention lint. The washing action is very vigorous. Let the detergent do the work. Use short (1-min) agitations with long soaks between. UNDERloading will also minimize lint, as the fabric is free to move. Contrary to the instructions, it is not necessary to drain the wash tub before spinning. For light soil you can reuse suds and still spin each load as you go. The 'spin' switch starts the pump independent of the 'drain' switch. If the wash water becomes dirty/brown/scummy, drain and refresh. This is where the operator supplies the attention for best results with varying soil. 'Automatic' washers can't replace human judgement and guidance. Twintubs can produce superior results with supervision. OK, I'm starting to sound like holy grail. Sorry. I'm a scientist and laundry is science. On to spin rinsing. When a load is done washing, distribute it in the spinner, turn the spin timer on with the door open (starts the pump) and run faucet water into the spinner for a minute. Then close the spin door and let it spin until water stops coming out. For some users the job is done. I prefer an agitation rinse, back in the wash tub briefly with fresh water then back in the spinner. All these options are yours to use as needed. The Panda performs them at your direction. With decades of laundry experience, I am completely satisfied with Panda. Appendix: 'New washer smell' is butadiene, same thing a tire store smells like. Dissipates rapidly with use, just like it does with new tires. 'Puddles'. I find the rapid reversal of spinning water can splash water out the right front edge of the wash door. More so with large single-piece loads like sheets. A kitchen sponge can be placed below that point to catch drips. Strategically-placed household weatherstrip tape may prevent them. 'Prewash'. Like with any washer, some soils/stains may require extra treatment. Pretreat with stain release sprays. If first wash water is especially dirty, spin items (for dripless handling) then rewash. You will probably find that heavy-soil items benefit from a prewash. They can be set aside and all be rewashed in the same fill, as the bulk soil has already been removed. Prewash/normal should be 100-105F so stains don't set. Second wash should be 120F, do not exceed. 'Detergent dosing'. Detergents have no instructions for the small volume of a twintub. Dosing will be tablespoons instead of cups/fractions. 2 tbsp should be right for normal use. For heavier soil use up to 4 tbsp. Powders are preferable to liquids (Consumer Report verifies.) I recommend 1 tbsp STPP detergent booster (available from Amazon, ~$3/pound) for every fill.

I cannot attest to the quality of this specific part, aside from the fact it is an LG part and is no doubt the same quality junk that you are looking to replace. I did want to assure anyone looking to repair their washer who finds the nuts just spinning on the old spider, that they DO NOT NEED A NEW DRUM. LG will tell you otherwise as will most parts suppliers but it simply isn't true. Let me explain. First let me clear up a misunderstanding about what's covered by Lg's lifetime stainless steel drum warranty. According to Lg's reps that I spoke to, only the stainless steel part of the drum is covered, and not the carefully designed and planned obsolescence parts like the spider and lifter assemblies. Surprise! LG (and I assume other manufacturers) design their washers to fail. It's as simple as that. They warranty the parts that they know have a very low chance to fail like the motor and stainless steel drum but surround them with inferior parts that will just squeek by the 5 year store warranties and then crap out. Mine lasted 5 years 3 months. My extended warranty from sears... 5 years. Surprise! These companies are counting on people weighing the repair time/cost against just buying a new machine. They want at the very least for you to be forced to purchase expensive parts from them or even better, to just go purchase another unit. Look inside the tub, those plastic agitators are called lifter assemblies. These lifters cover another plastic piece. The plastic pieces the lifters cover are what the spider part is anchored to. That's right, the part that holds the drum to the spider which connects to the motor are plastic. What is worse, those pieces are designed to never be replaced and is why LG and other suppliers will tell you, you need a new drum. The reason why the old bolts are spinning when you try to remove the old spider is the bolts were sprayed with lock tight and then screwed into nuts that are housed in plastic. So when you go to unscrew them the nuts break or bend the plastic constraints they are housed in and just spin inside the lifter assembly because the plastic cannot endure the pressure needed to break the years of corrosion and lock tight. Surprise! Actually what surprises me more is that any of the bolts unscrew at all considering the deck is masterfully stacked against them. So that brings me to what you need to do. You need to try to keep as much material out of the land fills as possible and don't let the companies win by buying a new drum or unit. How? Drill out the bolts that spin. I grabbed a large drill bit a bit (hehe) smaller than the head of the bolt and chewed it down to the washer until the threaded shaft was all that remained. Then I took a punch and punched the shaft down so the lifters fell down inside the tub. Make sure you bend up the stainless tabs on the outside that help keep the lifters in place first. And make sure you keep it centered so the head remnants and lock washer breaks away when the bit reaches the washer level. This will save time and keep you well away from the stainless tub. Once the lifters drop down you will have access to the nuts and can repair the plastic frame they sit in. I used JB weld to set the nuts back in and also strengthened the few nuts that didn't spin with JB weld for when I have to replace the spider in five years. Buy six 8mmx45mm stainless steel bolts with some stainless washers and lock washers. You will need them for when you connect everything back together. So all in all, I have invested 70 for the spider, and 80 for the bearings, seal and outer tub gasket. Roughly 10 for the stainless hardware. 160 IS cheaper than a repair man, cheaper than a drum and way cheaper than a new washer. Win! Right? Now add the time it took to teardown the washer, the frustration involved with every step of the too-many-to-count step process and the realization that the front loading washers are filthy just by their nature. Gunk gets trapped in every nook and cranny (behind the lifters, all up in the seal, the tub lip, the outer tub etc. Multiply that by the realization that the same parts will fail the exact same way in the future. It doesn't feel like I won. Suprise!

BUYER BEWARE! I purchased this product. It arrived BROKEN -- it runs but produces NO HEAT!! (as well as the Sonya washer, which ALSO ARRIVED BROKEN). Can you believe that the seller requested me to remove the back cover and take a picture of "the problem"? How on earth can you take a picture of the absense of heat? Yes, I took the pictures and sent them to the seller, but of course nothing came of their trying to trouble-shoot the absense of hot air by looking at a photograph of it. (???) I have phoned the toll-free number asking for contact information of Sonya-authorized repair persons in my area. I received the sweet and sincere-sounding outgoing message requesting the caller to leave a message and someone will return the call. No ... no one EVER returned my multiple calls. "Sonya" and I have exchanged MANY emails through Amazon, and the seller simply apologizes profusely but does not address the problem of the broken products ... except to say "return them." I kept the shipping in case I would need it, so I was prepared to return both products, BUT each crate requires professional (plastic?) strapping to hold the top of the box to the bottom (more like a platform) of the box. I have no way to STRAP the shipping cartons together, and I have no way to transport the machines and shipping crates to a professional shipper. Sadly, the expense to professionally strap the cartons falls to ME and is not covered by "Sonya." Additionally, I based on my experience I do not trust this seller any farther than I can throw it -- How do I know they will ACTUALLY refund my $750? Also, I have found ZERO "authorized" repair persons ... in the entire United States. The authorized repair persons ARE IN CANADA AND ASIA, not in the U.S. BOTTOM LINE: "Sonya" has taken $750 of my money, provided me with two broken machines, will not return my phone calls, has no authorized repair persons so I can maintain their warranty (rendering the warranty USELESS if you live in the USA), and I am unable to ship the machines BACK to "Sonya" because to do so I would have to HIRE a trucker to transport the machines/cartons to a professional shipper PLUS PAY for each carton to be STRAPPED together (the top strapped to the bottom "platform"). RETURN SHIPPING EXPENSE NOTE: The seller CLAIMS that it will pay for the "postage" expense to return faulty merchandise, but what they DO NOT TELL YOU is that the BUYER PAYS for transporting and re-packaging (strapping) the faulty merchandise ... which is VERY espensive. The Amazon problem-solvers "can only say that the seller is willing to refund your expense if you will kindly return the merchandise." I contacted my attorney about being RIPPED-OFF by an international company. His response? Legal attempts to recover my financial loss will cost me MUCH MORE than what I paid for the merchandise. MY ADVICE BASED ON MY EXPERIENCE IS THIS: - DO NOT PURCHASE FROM THIS SELLER. - THERE ARE NO SONYA-AUTHORIZED SERVICE REPS IN THE USA SO IF YOU CAN FIND SOMEONE (UNAUTHORIZED IN THE US) TO REPAIR THE PRODUCT, THE WARRANTY IS INVALIDATED. - IF YOU GET BROKEN MACHINES, YOU MUST PAY TRANSPORT AND PROFESSIONAL STRAPPING IN ORDER TO SEND THE MACHINES BACK. - SONYA's EMAILS DO NOT ADDRESS MY QUESTIONS OR PROBLEMS; THEY DO GUSH WITH SO-SORRYs AND RECOMMENDATIONS BUT THAT'S IT. - The seller is not in the United States and is not a U.S. company, so taking INTERNATIONAL legal action to recover your purchase price and shipping is likely to cost several times what you have already lost, AND your chances of successful INTERNATIONAL recovery of your funds is practically ZERO. GOOD LUCK TO HAPPY BUYERS: I have read the positive reviews of these products, and made my purchase based upon them. Apparently, there are buyers who have received merchandise in working order, and good for them ... but ... when the machine breaks, I wish them luck in finding an appliance repair person who is either "Sonya authorized" or even not "authorized" but willing to attempt repair. I have contacted several major appliance repair service companies in my area and each refused to attempt repair because the internal workings of the machines (Sonya washer and Sonya dryer) are not standard in the U.S. and for that reason the repair service reps have no experience or knowledge of "where to even begin." So, I repeat ... BUYER BEWARE!

We wanted a cabinet depth refrigerator as we don't like our fridge sticking out too far from the cabinets. We had a GE prior to this one and I swore I would never buy another GE refrigerator again. It was about 10 years old and was their top of the line cabinet depth back then. Thank goodness for extended warranty as we had numerous calls on it which unfortunately continued after when we had to pay about another $400 to keep it running. Ferraris have this sort of maintenance needs, not GE appliances.... I was looking at Samsung and LG options and was sold on going that route when my wife found this model online. I was not thrilled about it, but agreed to look at it since she liked the looks and features. A local large box home appliance retailer said they could get it for me and the price was right - with their 5 year extended warranty - so I went ahead with it. So far it has been a very nice refrigerator. I really like the LED lighting. It really lights up the interior so much better than the old incandescent bulbs of the past. And it gives it a rich look. The LCD panel on the front is an attractive feature and does things like tell you how much water you're dispensing in ounces. Very nice, for example, if you want need 8 ounces of water. It counts it off for you. It also has a neat animated background when in use. Just a nice detail that makes it feel "rich" without being gimmicky. The hot water dispenser is a very unique feature I have not seen on any other refrigerator. It is good for tea, soups, etc. It takes several minutes to warm up, as you may expect, but is more convenient that boiling water on the stove. So far we've only used it a few times, but I can see where this would be a handy feature once you remember you actually have it. It runs quiet and efficiently. The ice maker works very well. It took about 8 to 12 hours before ANY ice was made so don't be alarmed if you don't see any ice making activity for the first 6 or 8 hours. I was ready to call service on this but it must take time for it to get started. (Yes, I know ice doesn't freeze instantly.... It just seemed to be a long time until ANY was made.) The freezer has multiple levels and 2 pull out drawers, so organizing your food should be easy. Going from a side-by-side to this will take some getting used to, but we don't have a ton of freezer stuff and we have a second refrigerator in the garage where we keep items less often used, so ours is still mostly empty. You will have to judge this based on your own habits. The "fun" feature is the ability to use the LCD panel as an electronic picture frame. I am a gadget person so I tried this out. There is a USB port under a rubber cover where the ice/water dispense. THIS IS NOT documented in the manual so I had to find it on my own. It immediately recognized the USB drive and uploaded the pictures. Note, it only does a full overwrite of what is on there, so you can't simply add or delete pictures. Load your pictures on a USB drive, plug it in, and it simply replaces everything on the fridge with what is on your drive. When you use the panel for water or ice, it will then display your pictures for some period of time as a slide show(not sure how long - 10 minutes maybe?) Unfortunately GE engineers don't allow any customization of this feature. It's just an upload and display item; you can't adjust anything about how they display. There is NO documentation in the manual that I could find so if you like this feature you will have to sort this out on your own. (See my reply below with a more detailed explanation of this process!) Overall our first month has gone well. The store explained that the manufacture of GE refrigerators has moved from Mexico back to the US and they've seen an uplift in quality. (I did look and my old GE was made in Mexico and this one is made at Appliance Park in Kentucky.) So will see how that plays out long term. Given the Cafe line is supposed to be their best, I anticipate much better service than the Artica model I had before.

LOVE the new Nina Soft Spin Dryer & Wonder Wash combo! We live in a fifth wheel and have an on-board washer and dryer. Sometimes it takes the tumble dryer up to 4 HOURS to dry two bath towels even though they'd been through the spin cycle in the washer. Since we don't always have full hook-ups and some park laundry facilities are up to $3.25 to wash and dry a load, I'm now using Laundry Alternative's Wonder Wash and the Nina Soft Spin Dryer. The Nina Soft pulled nearly 3 quarts of water out of EACH of two towels, after which the tumble dryer finished drying both in 40 minutes. Woohoo! Other remarkable drying times: Nina Soft followed by the tumble dryer = Queen sheets dry in 20 minutes; 4 pair of jeans shorts, 20 minutes. Nina Soft + line dry on a hot day = 20-30 minutes total drying time for T-Shirts /Shorts. Pretty amazing. The spin dryer's earned a permanent place in my RV kitchen because I use it almost every day. I'll still be using it even when I have full hook-ups and can return to using my regular washer. I dealt directly with Laundry Alternative and they were great to work with... answered many questions by phone and email before and after receiving my products. My only regret is that I didn't order them a year ago. I could have saved so much time drying my clothes, and money at park laundry rooms. RVrs: The Laundry Alternative people told me it's BEST THAT NINA SOFT TRAVELS UPRIGHT v. stowed on its side. BOONDOCKERS, I asked the Laundry Alternative people how much water would the Wonder Wash be putting into the grey tank for washing and rinsing? Here is their reply: "It takes a little over a gallon of water to wash the clothes. Rinsing depends on the method used. If you refill the machine to rinse, you can use up to 3 gallons of water" [total, wash + rinse water]. "You can also rinse by hand, and perhaps use less water. The best way to use the least amount of water is to use a spin dryer...it's not commonly known, but a fast spin cycle removes a great deal of detergent suds...most people assume you must use water to rinse, but fast spin speed also does a great job of rinsing." For what it's worth, I'm making my own low suds powdered detergent from recipes found on youtube, and I'm getting great results with only 1/2 - 1 TEASPOON of powder per load in the Wonder Wash. Makes rinsing easy and the water extracted via the spin dryer is coming out nearly clear. If you have to be super conservative with water while boondocking or managing your grey tank level, it is easy to recapture the rinse water from the Wonder Wash and the Nina Soft and re-use it to wash the next load. The photo compares the Nina Spin Soft to my counter height and a one-step folding stool. Hopefully it will give you a good visual comparison for size. Believe me it's worth the space. And the price for the Laundry Alternative combo. BTW, my husband was fussing that these were just "gadgets" before I made the purchase. After watching me keep the laundry clean this last month and my neighbor schlepping off to the laundromat with 3 weeks dirty laundry, I got a welcome, "Good decision, Babe." Can't beat that. Unless he did the laundry. LOL UPDATE 10/20/15: STILL LOVE THE WONDER WASH/NINA SOFT SPIN DRYER COMBO Have only had full hook-ups about 2 weeks out of the last 4 months, but the laundry situation isn't a hassle any more. The combo works - clean clothes in less time. Was able to use my regular washer this week, but only used it for 3 big loads. Found I prefer the Wonder Wash for small loads of like things, plus the quick turn-around time of just a few minutes to wash and rinse a load. Used the spin dryer after each of the regular washer loads, too, and it was remarkable how much soapy water was extracted. Thanks, Laundry Alternative, for great products.

Addendum DEC 2015: Have lived with the fridge for about a year. Our experience has been good. Fridge is quiet and problem free so far. The addition of a 20 pound CO2 tank has been great. Copious amounts of very fizzy water. Did not have any ice maker leaks that other reviewer had. One little issue arose when quests came and somehow the fridge was placed into showroom or demo mode, shutting off the compressor. Absolutely no help from the manual. Fix was to simultaneously long press top two left buttons, ie., Freezer and Alarm, which turned the compressor back on. Thanks to all the people on the Internet! Why this isn't stated in the manual is idiotic. Original review: We bought the counter depth model. Just the two of us, so it is plenty big. So the important thing is my wife loves sparkling, fizzy, gassy, water by any name. The original. little, tiny, soda stream CO2 tanks just wouldn't do, so I had a look at it and have now attached a standard 20 pound CO2 tank with regulator, to the refrigerator, stashing the tank in an adjacent cabinet. Works well ! So far great fridge, we haven't had any problems, but see other reviews, all the rest is about CO2: If any one is interested, I used 6mm PU tubing, a CO2 regulator and two connectors, to go from the 20 pound CO2 tank to the fridge. Surprisingly simple. It seems that the soda stream regulator is built into the metallic gas bottle connector, so I just by-passed it, connecting my 6mm tubing, from my regulator, right into the push to connect fitting in the fridge, where the tubing from the soda stream originally connected to the fridge. Only a couple of screws need to be removed to access the carbonator and fittings in the fridge. The tricky part was routing the tubing through the top of the door. There is a plate on top of the door, above the dispenser, which when removed, reveals plenty of space, and I drilled from the edge of the door above the handle [ not the hinge side], into this space, through the plastic, down to above the carbonator, and ran the tubing down. All I hit with the drill was foam, but yes, i was a little nervous. I then ran the tubing back to the hinge along the top of the door, and underneath the plastic piece on top of the fridge and back to the cabinets. The tubing is covered completely from sight, though if I was to do it again, I would use black tubing instead of orange. Would make routing easier. Set my regulator to 80 psi originally, but bumped it up to 100 psi. Works well with about 14 feet of 6mm tubing. The PU tubing can easily handle these pressures, but is surprisingly flexible. All parts were bought on Amazon, except 20# tank which was bought locally, filled with CO2, but everything was about $200. I see Amazon sells several sizes of CO2 tanks, though, of course, they are empty. 5 or 10 pound tanks may fit cabinets better. Tank has to be upright to get gas out of the top. This review is only for educational purposes, and I would never suggest that anyone actually do it. There is some confusion about CO2 out there though. CO2 is not under the pressures SCUBA tanks are, at least in beverage tanks, maybe 600-800 psi, and after the regulator, about 80-100 psi is used. Beverage type of CO2 is a liquid with an overlying gas phase, and not as dangerous as a SCUBA tank, which is 3000 psi gas [air]. You have to get a beverage tank, which dispenses gas from the overlying gas phase, and not a "siphon" tank, which dispenses liquid CO2, from the bottom, which the paintball people use to refill their smaller tanks. Under no circumstances should you ever get a high pressure compressed gas CO2 tank. The beverage tanks are sold everywhere. Always use a nylon washer between your tank and regulator. Also use flare washers on all flare fittings on the regulator. I went from a flare fitting directly to a 6mm push to connect fitting at the regulator. Not as complicated as it sounds. Some companies are making money off of "food grade" CO2. Not necessary. A clean tank is all you need. I am now looking into a small, post carbonator, sparkling water storage tank, to fit into the original Soda Stream tank space. Haven't figured it out yet. This space is other wise wasted.

I have a Whirlpool Side-by-Side Refrigerator/Freezer, Model ED2YHGXLQ01. I kept finding the refrigerator door open slightly (~1/4") and thought it was people in a hurry & not bothering to shut the door completely. We made an effort to make sure the door was closed each time; however, I continued to find the door ajar, which caused the refrigerator temperature to be warmer than desired and led to spoiled milk. I also noticed that the top of the refrigerator door was ~ 1/4" lower than the freezer door. After doing an online search for this problem, I ascertained that I needed to replace the closing door cams on the refrigerator door. I vaguely recalled sweeping up some pieces of broken black plastic at some point and wondered where they'd come from. Its easier to replace the closing cams than one might think. Remove everything from the shelves in the refrigerator door. Unplug the refrigerator. Remove the refrigerator door by first removing the 5/16" hex head screw that holds the white plastic cover over the top door hinge parts on the top of the refrigerator. Next, remove the three screws that secure the silver metal plate under the white plastic cover. Do not remove the center screw. Lift off the metal plate, which has a metal post pointing downward that inserts into a hole at the top right of the refrigerator. The door pivots around this metal post. Lay the refrigerator door on a flat surface like the ice chest that you put the food in from the refrigerator door. The upper closing cam (P/N W2182179) is located *underneath* the refrigerator door at the bottom right. The black tubular part sticking out of the upper closing cam inserts into a hole at the bottom of the refrigerator door. There is a 5/16" hex head screw that goes through the hole in the flat part of the closing cam to attach it to the refrigerator door. Once you get the part, you'll be able to see that there are plastic "teeth" on the other side of the cam from the black tubular part. The side of the cam with the teeth face downward; these teeth will sit on the teeth of the lower closing cam. I found that there was no longer any upper closing cam on my refrigerator door--mystery of the broken plastic pieces solved. This also explained why the refrigerator door was lower than the freezer door. The black plastic lower closing cam (P/N W10329686) is attached to a metal bracket at the bottom right of the refrigerator, just below the refrigerator door. The metal bracket is screwed onto the refrigerator frame (not the door). I did not need to remove this bracket since it was accessible by removing the refrigerator door. The hole in the lower closing cam with the teeth around it slips over the metal post sticking up from the metal bracket. (Teeth side facing up.) A 5/16" hex head screw goes through the plain hole in the cam without the "teeth" around it; this secures the lower closing cam to the metal bracket, which has two holes in it. The screw for the lower closing cam goes through the hole on the left of the bracket (when facing the refrigerator). I called Whirlpool to confirm which hole the screw goes into, but they couldn't provide the information. I found out what hole to use by studying how to videos on YouTube. While the lower closing cam wasn't broken, I went ahead and replaced it as well so the two closing cams were of the same age. The how to videos recommended greasing the cams with silicone lubricant grease, which I didn't have. The rep at my local Home Depot found they didn't have any silicone lubricant grease in stock and said I could use WD-40 Silicone Spray instead. I already had some of this so I sprayed it on the cams. Unfortunately, the silicone spray did not provide enough lubrication to allow the teeth of the two cams to slide smoothly across each other as the refrigerator door opened and closed. The door made a loud clunking noise each time it was opened past 90 degrees. It sounded like something was about to break. I didn't want to wait for an online order so I got some multi-purpose White Lithium Grease from the local hardware store. It was ~$5 for 8 oz which was the smallest size they had. I removed the refrigerator door again and squirted a big blob of white lithium grease on the teeth of the lower cam. After reattaching the door, I found that it opened and closed smoothly and quietly. Repair finally done! How-to videos I found helpful on YouTube were: Part Select [...] Appliance Part Pros [...]

I have the Freeline Grom, which I liked so much that I got the OG as well. First I'll discuss Freeline skates in general, then I'll discuss the difference between Grom and OG. The OG is very tough. The deck and truck is one piece cast aircraft-grade aluminum. It can bear up to 3,000 lbs. My minor complaint is that the griptape isn't very grippy. I replaced mine with Vicious Black griptape which I'm pleased with. Learning to ride Freelines is not as difficult as it may seem. In terms of difficulty, learning Freelines is definitely harder than a casterboard but I found it easier to learn than Orbitwheels or the Skatecycle. It just takes persistence, and a little thought. The trucks don't move so you need to pivot (more like steer) the skates in and out. You should also coordinate the pivoting with the direction that you push each skate. For example, if you're riding regular, and your toes are pointed in, then your left/front leg should push "up" (from a birds-eye view) while your right/rear leg should push "down" and vice-versa. It took me 3 days of 2 hours each to learn the Freeline to the point of not needing a wall to launch or propel myself, and be able to turn and stop. To be fair, I had been practicing with Orbitwheels for 8 hours total before that. I found Freelines to be fun to ride. Downhill, it feels a lot like snowboarding, except your feet move independently. Some skates feel squirrelly going downhill, but the Freelines feel stable and I have confidence in their traction. On flats, they also feel good. However, on flats, you do need to maintain a brisk walking speed, or else they will feel hard to pivot. That requires learning techniques to start moving from a standstill ("zero start"). I found FLSTeamBushi's video tutorials most helpful. Freeline skates do take more strength and endurance to ride than let's say inline skating. On inline skates, I can skate for a long while before needing to stop. On the OG, I can currently skate for only a couple of minutes before needing to pause. At that point, the soles of my feet are sore, and my quads are burning (as though I did one long set of many reps). Hopefully, as my technique improves and my muscles grow stronger, I can skate longer. As expected, Freelines feel best on smooth surfaces. You can still ride them on rough asphalt, but it's much harder to propel them. BTW, I also got a pair of fake Freeline skates (branded Sui Xin). The deck looks tough enough (aluminum, but not the same kind as the OG) and it even has optional straps, and flashing wheels. However, the wheels and bearings are absolutely horrible. It takes far more effort to propel them, to the point where I can only go for a few feet (whereas on the Groms and OG, I can skate for a couple of minutes before stopping). They were so bad that I tried changing the bearings to Bones Reds. It was a huge improvement but one of the wheels still would not turn smoothly, and the other wheels would turn only about as much as the Groms' wheels (on normal wheels, Bones Reds should spin more smoothly than ABEC5). With bearings replaced, I can skate only about 30 seconds on the fake Freelines before running out of momentum and leg strength. It still takes much more effort, and it's not as fun as riding the OG or Groms. GROM VS. OG VS. CRUISER As mentioned, I started out with the Grom and now have the OG as well. I can confirm that the Grom is much easier to propel than the OG. I wasn't sure why (is it the decks? or the wheels? or something else?). I put the OG wheels on the Groms (yes they do fit). I found that with the OG wheels, the modified Grom is actually better. It rolls more smoothly, and it is also a little easier to stay balanced on it. Based on my experiment, it appears that it is the Grom's deck that makes it easier to ride than the OG. That brings me to the Cruiser: I saw a site that showed the Cruiser wheels being 72mm (the size of the OG wheels). If so, then the Cruiser should be better than the Grom because it has the same deck, but has the OG wheels. I haven't tried the Pro, but because its deck is wood, I suspect it is also easier to propel than the Grom, albeit less durable.

I'm really glad I bought this little dryer, though I'm not even close to the target demographic. I have a full size laundry set on the lower level of my house (in a dedicated laundry room no less!), but we got the old machines when we bought the house last year, and they were not quite up to my modern laundry diva standards. I'm a terrible housekeeper, but laundry is the only one of the necessary evils of home care that I don't actually hate. My new house also has a little laundry closet upstairs off the master bedroom with room for a compact, stackable washer-dryer set. I bought a nice compact washer for upstairs, but I had two qualms about getting a matching dryer. 1) Upstairs would be electric, not gas like the main laundry. Our utility rates are amongst the nation's highest, and I don't want to pay that much for drying clothing just because someone is too lazy to walk downstairs to the "real" machines. 2) Upstairs also has the plastic dryer venting going from the closet, through the attic, and outside in an inconvient-to-access place. Eventually, I will replace the fire-hazard plastic venting material, but I don't have the budget to do it now with so many other projects crying out for attention in the new home. Using the 110-V mini Panda dryer must produce less heat, therefore less fire hazard, so so my thinking goes. I hang a lot of my laundry to dry for environmental reasons (and to save wear and tear on finer fabrics) and my intent was to exclusively line dry with the upstairs compact washer. When my inherited-with-the-house dryer died two weeks ago just as the school year ended, planned parties were about to happen, and my house filled with guests... I ordered the Panda dryer and hoped it could see me through a very busy time while I waited for new household units to arrive. I would never compare this little dryer to a full size unit. I don't know that it gets as hot, but it does get hot and dry clothing. I didn't try to cram every item I washed into it, but I did have the option to tumble/fluff the stiff-as-a-board items I'd line-dried previously, and it got the job done every time. Because it is small and less convenient, I don't think other family members will use this at all, and that suits me perfectly. It will take up less space in my laundry closet, leaving more room to put up a shelf for my detergents and letting me avoid storing those in my bedroom or bathroom. I also felt that the luxury of having this little guy meant that I could take my time when picking out my new full-sized machines, and it meant I could afford the extra time lag of ordering them from a less expensive source. With NO laundry options at home, I would've purchased any units available for immediate delivery, because I have two messy boys who spend a lot of time outdoors. I wish the lint filter was easier to clean, but it isn't actually difficult. My mother (one of those houseguests) tells me it is like the ones in the old Maytag dryers she remembers from decades ago. I wish the supplied venting was metal instead of plastic, but I'm happy that they included the pieces that they did. It was easy for me to set the Panda dryer up on my own and get the vent directed out a window so I could work on my laundry backlog without waiting for help to hang it on the wall where it properly goes. My unit came with a faint spot of rust on the exterior top at a seam. I found no evidence of interior rust (that would affect my clothing) so I just accepted it and got on with the laundry. I considered sending it back, but felt that the price was low enough, and my need intense enough, that I could deal with a non-function-impacting defect on the exterior. I don't usually use the Panda to fully dry wet clothing, but I have done so with lightweight and mid-weight items. I haven't tried to dry jeans from fully wet to bone dry. My expectations have been met. Air dry doesn't result in warm clothes, so I'd say it works as described. Warm, which I use most often, results in pleasantly warm items pulled out. I think I've only set the dryer to hot once, just to be sure the dial worked on every setting, so I don't have a lot to say about that setting. I wish the dial felt a little more robust, but any rotary dial strikes me as less likely to need repair than any electronic dryer. I miss the buzzer at the end of the cycle a little bit, but not very much since I'm almost never setting and forgetting laundry upstairs, but rather tumbling nearly dry items that I intend to fold immediately.

Love my Panda portable washer with spinner. I bought it for our sailboat and it lives on the seat in the shower. We bought the gravity drain machine and I drain it into a 2 gallon bucket then when it's about 3 inches from the top of the bucket I switch the control from drain to wash or straight up and it stops. Then I pour in down the sink and drain another bucket. It's do easy and fast. I used a black magic marker and put a viable line on each control so I know when it's on wash or drain or spin. I usually wash for 3 min and spin for 3 min. It holds alot of clothes. Then after you want spin 1/2 of the load at a time. I bought a great drying rack from. Home Goods that holds a load or more. Clothes dry quickly. Yesterday z I did 3 loads. 1 white and light, one colors and 1 black. Example would be 3 T shirts 2 or 3 pair shorts and 2 Capri plus 5 pair undies and 2 boxer shorts. Only problem has been lint filter falls out. Finally figured it out. When you put it in, raise the piece on top up with your finger and it will snap in place. Other hints. The separate piece on the spinner is supposed to be inside the spin tub. Just put it on top of the clothes and turn it sideways to get it out. Also re the soap I learned from another review of Pandas to use 1 tablespoon. I use 2 tbl of liquid Gain because the machine is bigger. Hint to save water. You can save and reuse your rinse water for your next load of wash. How to use the Panda. Instructions are not clear. Fill washer 1/2 full with water. I go to below the lint filter. I fill with the shower sprayer. Tried the fill hose but it doesn't fit the sink spigot well and slips off or I have to hold it. The washer holds about 4 gallons of water. 2 full buckets if you want to fill with a bucket. Be sure the knob is on wash and the bucket with the drain hose is below. More than once I have left it on rinse and when I think I am filling the tub, It is draining into the bucket. Add clothes and soap and continue filling to top of lint filter. Turn the knob to the number of minutes you want. When done turn the knob to drain. Be sure the drain hose is positioned over the bucket. Since I am in a shower it doesn't matter if a little water spills but you may want this on a kitchen counter or a stool in the bathroom. After the water has drained out fill the tub with rinse water and add a little softener if you like. I use about a tablespoon. Rinse 3 min and drain. Then take half of the clothes and put them in the spinner. Be sure the hose in in the bucket. Spin for 2 or 3 minutes until no water is coming out the hose. You're done! Takes me about 10 min total for a load. You may be deciding which Panda to buy. I read a lot of reviews. I chose the blue one with gravity drain because it was a little smaller than the one with a motorized drain. Since it was going on the shower bench the smaller size fit better. Otherwise I would have picked the motorized drain. You could sit that one flat in the tub and it would still drain. It only cost a little more. My Panda weighs 43 lbs, too heavy for me. It has fallen over twice in rough waters but I usually have a hamper in the shower ares so it doesn't fall completely over. My husband is going to try to secure it with a strap in the future. Caution. If yours is elevated stay with it during the spin to be sure it doesn't walk or vibrate off of its perch. Mine is also very quiet. We are coming up the ICW now. The Panda is happy on its perch in our shower on the seat. Perfect for boaters. But I recommend securing or putting it on the floor in heavy seas. It says a ton of $, time and effort over taking laundry ashore in dinghy to lsundramat that often is $3.00 per load to wash. I do take sheets and towels except for hand towels and washcloths as I prefer to fluff them in dryer. Could probably get 1 queen sheet in but haven't tried it yet. So I recommend The Panda 100%. Would love a small portable dryer.

I just washed my first loads in my Panda. I live in an apartment without hookups. The complex does have laundry machines, but laundry was costing us around $126 a month. In two months, this little guy will pay for himself. I did use these suggestions from other reviewers: --Detergent pods diluted with 6 cups of water (I already had the pods. I put the mix in spray bottle to make it easier). --Laundry bags (socks do become a mess of tangles) --Wash without detergent the first round (I was AMAZED to see how much detergent residue and general filth was pulled out of "clean clothes"). --Fill above the lint trap (the lint trap works fine as long as you fill up the tank a wee bit past the filter). --Set on an upturned laundry basket/plastic tote and fill with a hand-shower and drain in the tub (another person's review suggested this and it works great for me. My bathroom is too small to keep it in there permanently). Though, I might beg a buddy into hooking it up in the kitchen for me. Does it smell? There's a little off-gassing, but it was nothing worse than how my microwave smelled when I bought it. How much does it hold? About half of the size of a load for a regular size (not jumbo or oversized) washer. A drawer full of clothes. An 11 year old's clothes for the day (including jacket). ONE pair of work pants (because they're nasty, not because it wouldn't fit two). A dress and undergarments for a full-figured woman. More than I expected. I haven't tried our oversized towels yet. I do believe it will do one at a time, but I'm considering donating the oversized towels and picking up some smaller, lighter weight ones. A king size sheet and two pillow cases. How long does it take? All loads, except the nasty work pants and the socks that needed bleaching, were done in 5 minutes of wash time, 5 minutes of rinse time, and 5 minutes of spin time. Expect each load to take 20 minutes or less to do. It's not "set it and forget it", but it is pretty close. How much does it weigh? About 25-30 lbs. It's totally "liftable". If you can pick up a big bag of dog food, you can pick up this little guy. I got him in an out of the tub easily, and I'm not a younger lady anymore. How big is it? The size of a large plastic tote. About 2-2 1/2 foot square. What are you going to name it? I'm thinking of naming mine Wilf. Wilf the Butler. What kind of detergent do you use? Homemade detergents would work GREAT in this machine. That's what I'll be using after I run out of pods. The machine specifies high-efficiency (or low foam) detergents. I used regular, diluted detergent that I spritzed in with a spray bottle. Pre-diluting the soap made it work just fine. How strong is it? AMAZINGLY STRONG! I was surprised by how forcefully it agitated. It is much more powerful than a typical laundry machine, which is why I guess it takes less time to wash. How much water does it use? I think, and this is just a guess, that I used about five gallons per load (soak, bleach, rinse, spin). Probably less on the loads I didn't pre-bleach or need extra rinsing for. USE LESS SOAP AND YOU'LL USE LESS WATER. Next time around I'll probably wash more than one load in the same water, then rinse separately. Remember, more soap doesn't always mean "more clean". Soap residue is a big cause of "dingy" clothes. How dry do the clothes get? I think they were quite a bit dryer than clothes are when I pull them out of a regular washer. I pinned them up on my dryer rack, pointed a fan at them, and in 45 minutes they were dry (put into perspective, the apartment community's dryers take 60 minutes and returns damp clothes). Is it worth it? If Wilf lives past two months, he'll have paid for himself. If he makes it a whole year, Wilf will put about a thousand dollars back in my pocket. So yes, definately worth it.

I CANNOT IMAGINE ANYONE SAYING ANYTHING GOOD ABOUT ANY SAMSUNG APPLIANCE. OUR HOME WAS FLOODED. WE HAD TO REPLACE ALL OUR KITCHEN APPLIANCES. WE WERE OUT OF OUR HOME FOR FIVE MONTHS AND I DIDN'T HAVE THE TIME TO RESEARCH THE NEW APPLIANCE'S WE WOULD BUY. THIS IS NOT LIKE ME. I ALWAYS RESEARCH ALL LARGE ITEMS THAT WE PURCHASED. BIG MISTAKE ON MY PART. SOMEONE TOLD ME ABOUT SAMSUNG BEING GOOD. I SHOULD HAVE NEVER TAKEN SOMEONE'S ELSE WORD. WE BOUGHT A SAMSUNG STOVE, A SAMSUNG DISHWASHER, A SAMSUNG REFRIGERATOR, AND A SAMSUNG MICROWAVE. WE DID NOT PURCHASE THE EXTENDED WARRENTY. ANOTHER BIG MISTAKE ON OUR PART. HOWEVER, THERE WAS A TIME YOU DIDN'T NEED IT. THE APPLIANCES ACTUALLY WORKED FOR MORE THAN A FEW MONTHS. OUR FIRST ENCOUNTER WITH HOW BAD SAMSUNG APPLIANCES ARE, WHEN THEY DELIVERED OUR STOVE AND PARTS OF IT WERE BROKEN. OKAY, THING HAPPEN. THEY REPLACED IT AND WE REALLY HAD NO PROBLEM WITH THAT. NOW AFTER FOUR MONTHS OUR DISHWASHER HAS PROBLEMS. THEY SEND SOMEONE OUT TO FIX IT AND IT IS STILL UNDER WARRENTY. THEY FIX IT. YES, IT WAS AN INCONVIENCE, BUT IT WAS FIXED. THAT WAS ALL I CARED ABOUT AT THAT TIME. NOW THE KNOBS ON THE STOVE START BREAKING. STILL UNDER WARRENTY AND I GET NEW KNOBS. NOTING THAT THEY WERE PLASTIC, I KNEW I WAS GOING TO HAVE A CONTINIOUS PROBLEM WITH THE KNOBS AND WE NO LONGER HAD A WARRANTY. THE KNOBS ARE ABOUT $25.00 APIECE AND THAT IS QUITE A BIT OF MONEY SINCE THEY ARE ALWAYS BREAKING. FORGET ABOUT THE SELF-CLEANING OVEN. IT IS AN ABSOLUTE JOKE. I HAVE HAD SELF-CLEANING OVENS THAT ACTUALLY DO WORK. THE SAMSUNG DOES NOT SELF-CLEAN. NEXT OUR DISHWASHER BREAKS AGAIN AND WE HAVE NO WARRANTY. IT WAS JUST A LITTLE OVER A YEAR OLD. WHEN WE BOUGHT SAMSUNG WE HAD KNOW IDEA THAT IT SHOULD HAVE A STATEMENT THAT SAY'S "ONLY WILL LAST ONE YEAR IF YOU ARE LUCKY." WE CALLED A REPAIR MAN OUT TO FIX OUR DISHWASHER AND HE WAS VERY HONEST WITH US. HE SAID IT WOULD COST MORE TO FIX THE DISHWASHER AS IT WOULD BE TO BUY A NEW ONE. HE SAID HE HAD BEEN OUT ON SO MANY CALLS WITH SAMSUNG DISHWASHER'S AND KNOW ONE EVER HAS IT REPAIRED. THEY BUY A NEW DISHWASHER. WITHIN A FEW DAYS OF THIS GOOD NEWS OUR MICROWAVE GOES OUT ON US AND CAN'T BE FIXED. DUE TO CONSTRUCTION OF SAMSUNG DIGITAL BOARD. IT IS AN OVER THE STOVE MICROWAVE AND THE GLUE SAMSUNG USES LOOSENS FROM THE STEAM. WHY SAMSUNG DIDNT THINK OF THAT, I DO NOT KNOW. THIS MEANS YOU HAVE TO GET A COMPLETELY NEW DIGITAL BOARD. AGAIN, WE HAD TO BUY A NEW MICROWAVE. A NEW DISHWASHER AND NEW MICROWAVE WITHIN A FEW DAYS OF EACH OTHER. AT THIS VERY MOMENT, I AM ORDERING NEW KNOBS FOR THE RANGE AND ONE OF THE BURNERS DOES NOT WORK. THE SHELF TO THE REGRIFERATOR CRISPHER KEEPS FLYING OFF. ANOTHER VERY INCONVIENT THING, BUT WE LIVE WITH IT. IN ALL HONESTY, DONT BUY SAMSUNG. I WOULDNT WANT ANYONE ELSE TO DEAL WITH THE PROBLEMS WE HAVE HAD. DO YOUR RESEARCH, IT WILL BE WELL WORTH IT TO YOU. ECA

The replacement motor worked but its day 2 and if it goes past 3 mo with no issues, I'll update this review and make it 5 stars. Couple of things to notice - it looks like a generic not an OEM like others noticed, doesn't include the screws to connect the motor to the drain/hose or the rubber gasket (to prevent water leaking from the coupling) - so if you are do it yourselfer, save the previous motor, the screws and the gasket. The motor arrived by USPS 2 day priority mail which was a nice touch - thanks. Here is the learning I went thru and hope it can help someone in a similar predicament (with a Kenmore Elite HE3t). My issue started with water in the drum at the end of cycle and quickly turned into washer stopping mid cycle with door locked and SUD error on display. I tried resetting and restarting a few times but soon the washer stopped spinning with door locked an load of laundry inside. First challenge - unlock the door, remove the laundry and drain the dirty water. I disconnect washer and put some 2x4 sections under the washer to tilt it backwards for easy access to lower panel (2 star screws (secure drill bits not part of regular drill bit sets). Once the front lower panel is off, you feel your way behind the door lock till you can feel a little protrusion (about 0.5") that is almost exactly behind where the lock is. It is not possible to see or target except for touchy-feely way. Once you pull on it downwards the door unlocks. It helps to have washer tilted so water can stay back in the drum rather than gushing out (you may want a lot rags/towels and a bucket handy). In HE3t there is a wiring harness that obstructs reaching back to motor and drain easily. If you remove the screws connecting green ground wires to the frame (star security bits) and move the tabs left or right (not up or down) they'll come off the frame. The wiring harness will still be connected but will allow for you to easily get to the motor. If you remove the single screw (star bit) at the base holding the motor-hose to the body, it'll come free. HE3T model has drain plug that can come in handy for draining the water into a shallow pan while connected. I removed the rubber hose and the coin trap and washed it (sometimes there is blockage that can prevent drainage causing the error and you may not need to change the motor - there are youtube videos showing how to do this). In my case, the hose and the coin trap were quite clean which left motor or the pressure switch as the likely culprits. I read in the reviews here about the pressure switch and the black hose it is connected to or the clogged drain pipe as other potential culprits and wanted to see if I should clean/inspect them before ordering the motor. I opened the top panel (3 star bit screws in the back) but did not see the white plastic part some one mentioned. You may want to remove the drain hose and see if it is clogged as well. Since my coin trap and rubber hose under the drum was pretty clean, I concluded that drain hose likely may be the same way (clean). Instead of removing the hose and inspecting I just took a chance by ordering the motor first. The new motor was quite easy to install (rubber gasket and 3 screws from the old motor to connect new motor to the drain plus coupling, and retracing the steps to put the wiring harness back). I then tested the drain/spin cycle to see if there were any leaks and the drain motor was doing its job before putting the bottom panel back and removing the 2x4 to get the washer even. If you are contemplating buying a motor, you probably are somewhat of a fixer and done some research. I tend to call repair men mostly for such issues except for I am increasingly finding having to stay home for 4 hr window and waiting for them to show us a tricky trade-off to tinkering myself. I want to thank the community of people on Amazon and youtube who take the time to share tips and make the time to explain "how to" which have been invaluable time savers (not to mention $$ on a call - last time I paid $200 for someone to replace a creaky hinge on the oven door - for 1 min 12 sec of his valuable time).

Picked up a couple of these sets because I have a 30' long dryer vent run and the duct cleaning company I paid couldn't take care of obvious mildew that had developed in the vent. Initially, there was a really nasty smell (like something crawled up there and died) - after the duct cleaner came out the first time he didn't find anything but got a lot of lint out and sprayed bleach inside. While the really awful smell was now mostly gone, not long after, the mildew smell became pretty noticeable. I don't think the brush the duct cleaning company had was long enough to reach in to get to the trouble spots. He was running a blower and got a lot of lint out but the smell persisted even after he came out a second time and sprayed bleach into the duct with a compressed air gun. At this point I decided to DIY it, and I'm glad I did. I initially didn't have a keyless chuck drill around when I got the Deflecto kits so I tried by hand - I put 12' (one kit) down the vent from the laundry room and sure enough as I was pulling it back up the rods were wet with that rank mildew smell. I think this was a result of lint that had gotten wet and stuck to the walls of the duct like paper mache. I finally obtained a drill from an old coworker and went to work. Setting the clutch on 4 (as was recommended by another reviewer) was perfect at least on a Hitachi cordless drill set. I first went in on low gear and from both the laundry room and from the outside exhaust. Probably made 2-3 passes in total then ran an electric 165mph leaf blower duct-taped around the vent from the laundry room. I could still detect the smell so I went in on high gear and several more passes, again using the leaf blower to blow out excess. More stuff came out but the smell was less noticeable. I went ahead and poured about 1/2c-1c of baking soda into the vent and used the leaf blower to blow it through and then hooked the dryer back up. It's been about a week now and there's barely a trace of that mildew smell. I think the combination of going through with the Deflecto kit again and then letting the leaf blower push air and dry out the duct really helped by leaps and bounds. A few other things to note: - There are three 90 (or close to 90) degree bends in the 30ft duct run, which runs underground. It was a bit tricky getting around the first bend the first time but after that it was pretty easy. - I didn't tape the rods together as recommended - I felt this would be too tedious since I was screwing/unscrewing each section as I was pushing it in or pulling it out. - Go slow but don't hold back on the high speed gear setting (if you have one) - just make sure to set the clutch low and ALWAYS drill/turn clockwise so as to not undo any rods - I was scared I'd have issues like a couple others who took pictures, of their rods getting twisted up really badly. This didn't happen - I can only imagine that happening if you go in too aggressively and too fast without using the clutch and trying to drill in a super long section of rod (rather than going piece by piece) - I thought with two kits I would see the brush head pop out of the exhaust but I was still 5-6' short - I bought a 30' snake cam (by Bluefire) that I was able to use to check on the condition of the vent before/after/in-between each cleaning. This was SUPER useful - I had to attach a small LED flashlight to make it more useful for visibility. But after the duct cleaner did his thing the first time, there were MAGGOTS crawling around inside the duct! I would highly recommend this for anyone looking to clean out their dryer vents. I should have just bought these from the get-go instead of hiring someone. Now I know... It's also cheaper buying two of these versus the Linteater kit, which runs $28 or so. The difference is that you don't get all the extras/accessories that the Linteater comes with - those extras *may* be useful especially if your ducts are really clogged up. But instead of the extras/accessories you get the extra length with 2 kits. In my case, all I needed was the brush and rods (and extra length).

This is a really great cooktop that is well designed, laid out, and extremely functional -- also very easy to use and install. Burners: The center burner is powerful for quick boiling and the 2 simmer (small) burners are great for long slow cooks like tomato sauce or soups etc. Unlike our previous cook top, the simmer setting truly is a simmer; it doesn't boil whatever you're cooking on the lowest setting so you can leave sauces and soups on for long periods of time like in a slow cooker. The two other "medium" burners are great for things that you want to get up to a high temperature quickly: things like grilled cheese, pancakes - or for searing meats or frying eggs (the smaller burners will also do the trick just not as quickly). Cleaning: The grates just lift off with very little effort to provide easy access for cleaning the burners and/or the grates. Also the knobs come off easily for cleaning when you're making a greasy mess. Other reviewers have mentioned a discoloring of the stainless steel after doing some hot cooking; I have experienced none of that whatsoever -- I think Bosch may have fixed that problem because I've done a lot of cooking over the last few weeks with zero discoloration and no cleaning challenges. Auto-lighting: The cooktop lights very quickly automatically and we've had no "misfires". I did purposely blow out burners a couple of times and it automatically re-lights them. Deficiency: One MINOR complaint (minor because I don't think it will ever affect me): When you're running ALL 5 burners at full throttle, the regulator doesn't have quite enough capacity to allow enough gas through for them to all truly function at 100%: they all turn a bit orange and wavey since there isn't quite enough gas. I have tried to imagine any and every cooking situation I will be in, and I can't think of a time where all 5 burners will be going full throttle -- there simply isn't enough room behind a cooktop for more than one person - and you'd need at least 2 to tend to 5 boiling or searing pots simultaneously. It's got plenty of capacity for a few simmer burners, a full throttle main burner, and medium - medium burners. Luck (Karma?) Before ordering this cooktop, we went to the appliance store to buy the weekend before we had installers scheduled. The rude manager ridiculed and laughed at us for not coming weeks earlier; then tried to sell us a lower quality Electrolux display model for over $1300. I thought we were in a pickle and would have to buy it, but couldn't get over his snottiness and rude comments -- so instead of buying it then and there, we went home to decide whether or not we would be better off rescheduling the installers as opposed to doing business with a jerk. I decided to piddle around online and look at reviews - and we lucked out. We found this cooktop for under 900 bucks and had it delivered 2 days later; in plenty of time for the installers. SCORE! Extras: We bought a lodge griddle to go with it, and it sets quite nicely on the grates and works well once you figure out how to get the simmer burner and the medium burner on the same sized flame (since they are different sized burners, it's not as easy as putting both on "medium" heat).&nbsp;<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/Lodge-LDP3-Double-Play-Reversible-Grill-Griddle-9-5-34-x-16-75-34/dp/B002CMLTXG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">Lodge LDP3 Double Play Reversible Grill/Griddle, 9.5" x 16.75"</a><a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/Lodge-LDP3-Double-Play-Reversible-Grill-Griddle-9-5-34-x-16-75-34/dp/B002CMLTXG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">Lodge LDP3 Double Play Reversible Grill/Griddle, 9.5" x 16.75"</a> No wonder this cooktop continues to show up at the top of nearly every ranked list of gas cooktops.

I am editing this in February 2017. I bought this washer in June 2014, and it has been working just fine since then. We do 6 to 8 loads of laundry a week. My original review. The Panda machine arrived today. Fast shipping, I ordered Monday, it arrived today. It is impressive looking, nicely styled, easy to move around. Nothing in the way of assembly for the washing machine itself. The only tricky thing was figuring out the somewhat terse instructions about installing the quick connect on the faucet. I finally went with "trail and error" on the rubber washers and ended up trying all 3 before one "fit". I still need to work with the connection a bit because it still leaks just a little bit. The type in the instruction manual is very tiny, I had to fetch my reading glasses to decipher it. It is needlessly tiny too, since there is plenty of white space. It does come with a strong chemical smell. If I was writing ad copy I would describe it as "that luxurious new car smell" except of course that that smell is outgassing volatile chemicals, lol. And after only a couple hours in my kitchen, the whole place stinks so i turned on the whole house fan. Tomorrow it's going onto the back porch for a few days until the smell goes away. I ran two "quick" ten minute wash and rinse cycles, with no clothes, and I used dish detergent, in the hopes that the smell in the tub would go away and it did substantially go away after two wash and rinse cycles, no clothes. But the exterior and hoses appear to be the continuing source of of the chemical smells. The tub seems roomy. It was amazingly quiet while going through its quick wash and rinse cycles. it is fully automated, unlike the smaller and older model that is #1 in this small apartment washer category, you can set it and forget it. You need to make sure the drain hose is secured in the sink. I neglected that detail but fortunately I was in the kitchen when the drain hose hopped out of the sink onto the floor. Oops. So I put it back and tucked it between the water hose and the faucet and it stayed there securely. It did come with some water in it, which I heard sloshing around as I walked it into the kitchen from the front porch. It wasn't too heavy for me to do that (and I'm 62). The promised dolly to move the washer around with is not a Panda product. It comes in a separate box. and the instructions appear to be in a charming prose consiting of English words in what I bet is Chinese word order, lol. . . I quote. . . "(1) In the prescribed length (62 x 62 cm) and bearing weight (128 kg) for use. (2) Before installation on the pipe centerline draw, resize to pull out the red line as the center of symmetry support plate, the last screw. (3) If there are 2 directional wheels, directional wheel mounting direction to be consistent. When using 2 directional wheel in the back, brake wheel and regulating towards the front." Etc. And all the wheels appear to be "directional", I'm guessing, but each of them rotates 360 degrees, none of them are fixed in a particular direction. Fortunately, looking at the pieces inside the box, it appears to be fairly straightforward, four sections to put together using 8 heavy screws and four wheels. And there are 8 holes for the screws and 4 holes for the wheels so the instructions notwithstanding, it seems fairly simple to put together. The final size is adjustable. So I am going to go ahead and give it a four star rating and maybe eventually five. It seems to be working as described, I who am a mechanical dunce managed to get it out of the box and hooked up and working and look set to figure out the movable dolly that it comes with. It is the quietest washer I've ever come across. Next day. . . The next day, most of the chemical smell was gone so I didn't exile it to the back porch. instead, I did my first load of laundry, 9 shirts, which loosely filled the tub. Product worked like a charm, and it was still quiet with the clothes in the tub. Edited 7-31-14 to give it a five star rating.

WE bought the Samsung also from HH Gregg about three weeks ago. HH Gregg delivered it and it was set up. As with most refrigerators he made sure it went on (basically the lights came on) then left. The unit never cooled down. We went back to the store and looked at their model. They explained it was in store mode and we learned how to unlock it. But the store unit did nothing either. Ours was unlocked so that was not the problem. So we called Samsung and they said it was 10 days to get someone out there. HH Greggsaid this is not acceptable and they brought another unit. The second unit worked on the bottom and the ice cube maker but the main refrig never worked. As a result we called and they scheduled a repair. Again 10 days but since we had called on the first unit they moved us up to what would have been our first service date. We waited for that. On the day they were to come out and we had taken time to be home they called and said that since it was new we should take it back to the store and get a new one. Again HH Gregg said sure and set up another delivery. We waited for our Sunday afternoon delivery and about an hour before it was to arrive we got a call saying that the truck people did not tie it down properly and it fell over and hit a range and the floor and was destroyed. Not Samsungs fault other than not giving us a working one first time out. HH Gregg sent us another one and it arrived and again the technician could not get it to work properly. we tried programming it and other things then in the instructions it kinda says that the machine does not always work right and to try to unplug and replug it in, It takes about a half hour to see changes so we did this a number of times and it went down to 43 degrees. Did it again went up to 50 degrees did it again and it went to 34 and has been working since. Real Flakey. I am afraid if the power goes out that it may not work again. Have the great almighty Samsung tech coming out hopefully although they have not called back yet to schedule a time and we have a repair person to come out hopefully this Tuesday to check all the wires. I am guessing the problem is in the wiring harnesses at the connectors as wiggling the wires help to make the unit work at least that is how the light on the water filler and ice cube dispense section got fixed by the technician. I am going to have them go over all connections. It appears that when they take off the doors to install it is then a crap shoot on whether it will work again or not. Samsung when I call always says ok I will put it in the notes. But when asked will they pass this on to anyone the answer is no. I asked for a supervisor but they were not available. Asked for the phone number to the office of the president and it took over a half hour to get it. Also asked for a Local Samsung rep they had no idea if they even had reps. HH Gregg is to be commended in all they went through on this without any questions and without looking at us as if we were nuts Also helped that their in store unit also does not work and their Samsung rep could not get it to work either. Their unit says 18 degree C for the upper unit which is probably correct. -21 degree C for the lower left which is wrong since the unit is not cooling and the lower right at 0 degree C which again is wrong since it is not cooling all compartments are at 18 degrees or so C. Even had an HH Gregg employee come over and try to get it to work. HH Gregg I give 5 stars Samsung got one only because I had to click at least one. Cool refrigerator with all the features but at this point we do not trust it. The previous person is correct it does hold temperature well the question is if we have a power shortage will it go back to the pre set or will it go back to factory where its not set. Hope the repair person knows also having problems finding the sparkling water co2 canister I am sure I will find it on Amazon or somewhere its not at the store. Samsung you do not know what customer service is. Most expensive refrigerator they have and no one knows why so many are defective.

I'm so excited about this purchase which is a lifesaver for my family's busy lifestyle. I said goodbye to rewashing loads of clothes because we forgot to move the clothes to the dryer. This is a modern version of a washer/dryer and is what busy families need! I read lots of reviews before making this huge purchase and noted helpful hints many have mentioned. The most common complaint I saw during my search was that it doesn't dry the clothes....Solutions to this issue included changing the dry setting to "more dry" and also letting gravity work for you in regards to the drain pipe. I bought a pedestal to elevate the washer as well as a drain extension hose which sold as a "dish washer drain hose" at any big box hardware store and costs less than $15. It is important to note that the drain hose needs to go from the machine, align the floor a short distance, and then go up to the drainage pipe. Please see manual for a visual. The hose that comes with it is too short in my opinion. But the extension fit like a charm. My very first test load washed and dried perfectly. Initially upon opening the door the clothes felt damp. But just as others have stated once you remove them and shake/spread them out the clothes are instantly dry. My mouth fell open. It's truly amazing to have an all in one. I despise washing laundry and I'm actually excited to do it now! The machine has some really cool bells and whistles and even plays a song when the load is complete. I'm in love with my washer :) my husband is jealous! UPDATE: 6 weeks later... I still standby my review this machine is amazing! I no longer have "laundry days". The hampers stay practically empty nowadays. Laundry is no longer a chore. It just gets done! Example: After my 12 hr shift and wearing my last set of scrubs... laundry is the last thing I want to do. But with this machine I can pop the clothes in, program the timer and get ready for bed and wake up to warm clean-dry scrubs. My clothes are cleaner than they've ever been! I now only use the "more dry" setting when drying bulky items or a heavy load. The "normal dry" setting is just fine. If I pull the clothes out immediately after the load ends I have to let the heat escape before touching because the clothes are SO hot. One downside is jeans (particularly my 8 year old son's) come out wrinkled. I'm carefree and usually just fold or wear straight out of the dryer. Now I have to occasionally use the iron :( but just occasionally ;) The drum of the machine is VERY large! People may be tempted to fill it all the way. But I only fill it half way using the marker on side. Sometimes I test the limits but just slightly. *TIP #1*-Buy all purpose cleaning wipes and use between loads to make cleaning the rubber door seal easy. ;) *TIP #2*-Liquid fabric softener appears to decrease wrinkles (had no idea...but I definitely see a difference) *TIP #3*-If you don't think you'll be home when the load ends press and hold the "Fresh Care" button at start up and it will tumble the load every few minutes for hours keeping your clothes wrinkle free until you can unload them. *TIP #4*- Customize and program your favorite load settings apart from the default settings. My 8 yr old can now wash and dry a load of laundry with the push of 1 button!! (Well...2 if you count the power button Lol) Overall, I would purchase this machine over and over a thousand times. It's like having a personal assistant. Perfectly fits our family's busy lifestyle! ONE YEAR LATER...1/29/17 I still pat myself on the back for this purchase! We recently bought a house and took this with us and gave away the set that came with the house! It transported well. NO mechanical issues at all (knock on wood). I have all the hook ups for a regular washer and dryer but I'll NEVER do that again. Way more work than it's worth! Still a VERY happy camper!! TWO YEARS LATER 7/9/18 No problems with this machine at all...no matainance required! Super convenient...I may not be as motivated as 2 years ago lol but its still nice to put a load of dirty clothes in and get out a load of dry clothes! Now if only there was a machine that fold as well Id be sold ! I updated the picture to this review about a year ago but I just want to point out that theres a deep freezer next to my washer/dryer. Definite space saver as well!! Still highly recommended

I have a Whirlpool Side-by-Side Refrigerator/Freezer, Model ED2YHGXLQ01. I kept finding the refrigerator door open slightly (~1/4") and thought it was people in a hurry & not bothering to shut the door completely. We made an effort to make sure the door was closed each time; however, I continued to find the door ajar, which caused the refrigerator temperature to be warmer than desired and led to spoiled milk. I also noticed that the top of the refrigerator door was ~1/4" lower than the freezer door. After doing an online search for this problem, I ascertained that I needed to replace the closing door cams on the refrigerator door. I vaguely recalled sweeping up pieces of broken black plastic at some point and wondered where they'd come from. Its easier to replace the closing cams than one might think. Remove everything from the shelves in the refrigerator door. Unplug the refrigerator. Remove the refrigerator door by first removing the 5/16" hex head screw that holds the white plastic cover over the top door hinge parts on the top of the refrigerator. Next, remove the three screws that secure the silver metal plate under the white plastic cover. Do not remove the center screw. Lift off the metal plate, which has a metal post pointing downward that inserts into a hole at the top right of the refrigerator. The door pivots around this metal post. Lay the refrigerator door on a flat surface like the ice chest that you put the food in from the refrigerator door. The upper closing cam (P/N W2182179) is located *underneath* the refrigerator door at the bottom right. The black tubular part sticking out of the upper closing cam inserts into a hole at the bottom of the refrigerator door. There is a 5/16" hex head screw that goes through the hole in the flat part of the closing cam to attach it to the refrigerator door. Once you get the part, you'll be able to see that there are plastic "teeth" on the other side of the cam from the black tubular part. The side of the cam with the teeth face downward; these teeth will sit on the teeth of the lower closing cam. I found that there was no longer any upper closing cam on my refrigerator door--mystery of the broken plastic pieces solved. This also explained why the refrigerator door was lower than the freezer door. The black plastic lower closing cam (P/N W10329686) is attached to a metal bracket at the bottom right of the refrigerator, just below the refrigerator door. The metal bracket is screwed onto the refrigerator frame (not the door). I did not need to remove this bracket since it was accessible by removing the refrigerator door. The hole in the lower closing cam with the teeth around it slips over the metal post sticking up from the metal bracket. (Teeth side facing up.) A 5/16" hex head screw goes through the plain hole in the cam without the "teeth" around it; this secures the lower closing cam to the metal bracket, which has two holes in it. The screw for the lower closing cam goes through the hole on the left of the bracket (when facing the refrigerator). I called Whirlpool to confirm which hole the screw goes into, but they couldn't provide the information. I found out what hole to use by studying how to videos on YouTube. While the lower closing cam wasn't broken, I went ahead and replaced it as well so the two closing cams were of the same age. The how to videos recommended greasing the cams with silicone lubricant grease, which I didn't have. The rep at my local Home Depot found they didn't have any silicone lubricant grease in stock and said I could use WD-40 Silicone Spray instead. I already had some of this so I sprayed it on the cams. Unfortunately, the silicone spray did not provide enough lubrication to allow the teeth of the two cams to slide smoothly across each other as the refrigerator door opened and closed. The door made a loud clunking noise each time it was opened past 90 degrees. It sounded like something was about to break. I didn't want to wait for an online order so I got some multi-purpose White Lithium Grease from the local hardware store. It was ~$5 for 8 oz which was the smallest size they had. I removed the refrigerator door again and squirted a big blob of white lithium grease on the teeth of the lower cam. After reattaching the door, I found that it opened and closed smoothly and quietly. Repair finally done! How-to videos I found helpful on YouTube were: Part Select[...] Appliance Part Pros [....]

I purchased this kit from another amazon listing but I wanted to share this info because it would have saved me some time. After some research this seems to be the only diy option for repairing your w10377151 ice maker. Like many other victims, my ice maker blew a pin clip within the control board where it hooks to the heater element. Although there is an interesting youtube video of someone making this fix with a bullet casing, I figured I would go the more common route of replacement. Like many other reviewers, I was hoping to find a plug and play ice maker assembly that could just be popped in and done. This isn't the case as I believe the manufacturer has changed its design after realizing the fatal flaw. Be aware because of this design change the new assembly will have the dial on the front and a white water cup instead of the blue one. This is supposedly an upgrade and will work as a replacement. Also, the new part number on the item will say w10300024 which denotes the repair kit. This does not mean you received the wrong part. Unfortunately, this redesign involves replacing the wiring harness. Two separate wiring harnesses are included but you only need one. You can quickly identify which one is needed by comparing the wire colors and connectors to the one that is currently installed on your ice maker. The new one should almost be identical. Also included are two plastic covers. One has a hole cut in it for the power switch and one does not. This is because some models have the power turned on from the front panel of the refrigerator. If, like me, your ice maker has a power switch, you will have to transfer this over from the old cover to this one. Also included in this kit is the metal portion of the fill level arm. This arm is a different shape than my original one. My kit did not come with instructions so I was unsure of which one to use. Since it is provided with the kit, I assumed it was the correct one to use. They do not include the plastic flapper piece, so this will have to be transferred over from the old one. After installing the new arm, I realized that it did not allow the arm to be moved up and down like the one on the old ice maker. I put the old arm back on and found that although I was still unable to move the arm down, I was able to click it up into another position. This reminded me of a different style of ice maker where you would lift the lever up to permanently shut it off and click it back down to turn it back on. Since this ice maker has its own power switch, I determined that this may be why this kit includes a new arm that is bent differently and does not allow this movement. This also may be why another reviewer had an issue where he had to reset the ice maker each time it made a full bin of ice. So I put the new arm back on and hoped for the best. As for the harness transfer, like others have said, as long as you take pictures you should be able to transfer the harness without much difficulty. I have attached the pictures I took in case anyone misses that step and ends up stuck. I also put some automotive style terminal dielectric grease on most of the connector contacts to try to prevent corrosion. I also opened up the front of the control box and applied some grease to those pins as well to further attempt the original issue from repeating itself. This was a fairly new ice maker so not many of the connections were corroded, but I did notice some on the on off switch located on the front cover. I slid the ice maker back in, gave it an extra push to get it past the water line, reconnected the connector, turned it on, pressed the door closed button and heard the wonderful sound of the ice maker filling. A little over an hour later the machine dropped its first batch of ice. Success! In case you were wondering, after powering the unit up, the fill arm dropped to the expected position and all is well. Also, the hardest part for me in the whole evolution was trying to figure out how to disconnect the main connector prior to removing the maker from the fridge. All you need to do is press on the center of the ice maker side of the connector where the tab is and the connector will pop right off. I will not disclose everything I tried before figuring this out. Another note, don't get discouraged if after completing the transplant and flipping the power switch to no avail, remember that, at least in my case, the door needs to be closed in order for the magic to happen. You can bypass this by pressing in the button that tells the fridge the door is closed.

"LG" means "Life's Good" and trust me when I say that this washer and dryer has just made my life much easier. Life really is good when you have pedestals to raise the washer and dryer to a Laundromat type level. It is so much easier to get wash in and out of the washer and dryer. Before I was really having trouble with my old washer and dryer, mostly because the buttons were not working right and it was difficult to get clothes out of the washer and into the dryer. Now as far as research goes I read all about this set before I bought it. It had all the fun features I knew I'd love. But it was a surprise when I heard all the cute sounds this washer and dryer make. There are little tunes that are played at the end of the cycles which makes me happy. It is so much better than an annoying beeping sound. I would have to say that "user friendly" is an understatement when talking about how easy this set is to use. With just a few turns of a knob and the pressing of a few buttons you can customize your experience. I have tried about ten options on the washer so far but there are even more to try. You can do regular cycles like cotton or perma press or delicates. There are also cycles for towels and whites. If you have allergies you will love the allergiene cycle which does take about an hour and a half but leaves sheets very, very clean. There is also a sanitary cycle a heavy duty cycle and speed wash cycle. I tried the speed wash cycle and it was only fifteen minutes. This was handy as I just needed to wash a few items. Now I don't have to wait for my favorite clothes. I can wash and dry them very quickly. The only cycle I had issues with on the washer was the perma press cycle with cold water. I tried washing my husband's and my clothes together and with cold water the scent of his deodorant got on all my clothes. So next I did a prewash (with Clorox 2) and extra rinse and used warm water. That turned out great and my clothes were fresh and clean. So I don't think I'll be using cold water as much with this machine. The washer also has a rinse and spin cycle but not a simple spin cycle. The only thing I had trouble washing so far was a very heavy flannel duvet/comforter cover. It simply would not spin. So I had to wring it out in the bathtub and finally got enough water out of it so I could put it in the dryer. So when they say "bulky" items not everything heavy is going to work. But small blankets came out great. Like the kind you use on a baby's bed or cat bed. The washer also has a child lock option for if you have small kids. There is also an option to customize a cycle. So if you do a similar kind of laundry all the time this will save you some time as it saves your cycle and remembers it. The dryer is also very easy to use. You can turn a knob to select steam, small load, heavy duty, bulky/large, perm press, delicates, towels, speed dry and air dry. There is also a way to download another cycle of your choice. Both the washer and dryer work with cell phones. You can select a cycle and then change the dry level, temperature, time and signal. The dryer comes with a rack so you can dry shoes or delicates that you have to lay flat. There is an easy iron option if you don't want clothes you want to iron to dry completely before ironing. And there is a cool wrinkle care option that will tumble clothes longer until you get the chance to get them out of the dryer. What I really like about both the washer and dryer is the indicator symbol lights. You always know how much time is left and you can see a little symbol that tells you how far along the cycle is. There is also a child lock feature on the dryer. The dryer also has a custom setting for your favorite cycle. For safety there is a little "flow sense duct blockage sensing system." Really this washer and dryer have it all. Just make sure to really read the manuals before using. There are some safety issues like you want to disconnect the power when cleaning the filter on the washer, etc. The dryer filter is also very easy to clean. If housekeeping seems like drudgery to you trust me when I say that once you get this washer and dryer laundry will become fun again. What was the most fun was fluffing up my feather pillows on air dry. That only took a few minutes. ~The Rebecca Review

Along lasting reliable water filter. I love the date labels that easily reminds me when to replace it. <a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/GE-Z-Wave-Smart-Switch-for-Large-Appliances-40-Amp-Direct-Wire-Indoor-Outdoor-12726/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">GE Z-Wave Smart Switch for Large Appliances, 40 Amp, Direct-Wire, Indoor/Outdoor, 12726</a> <a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/3X-GE-SMART-WATER-FILTER-for-MWF-GWF-MWFP-WF287-HWF-Replacement/dp/B01E85LYNO/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">3X GE SMART WATER FILTER for MWF GWF MWFP WF287 HWF Replacement</a> <a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/Rachio-Smart-Sprinkler-Controller-8-Zone-2nd-Generation-Works-with-Amazon-Alexa/dp/B01D1NMLJU/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">Rachio Smart Sprinkler Controller, 8 Zone 2nd Generation, Works with Amazon Alexa</a> <a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/GE-MWF-SmartWater-Compatible-Refrigerator-Water-Filter-Cartridge-by-OnePurify/dp/B01N43YVFE/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">GE MWF SmartWater Compatible Refrigerator Water Filter Cartridge by OnePurify</a> <a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/Package-Of-4-WaterSentinel-WSG-1-GE-SmartWater-MWF-Compatible-Filter-Cartridge/dp/B00FKFLTE6/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">(Package Of 4) WaterSentinel WSG-1 GE SmartWater MWF Compatible Filter Cartridge</a> <a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/GE-MWF-SmartWater-Compatible-Water-Filter-For-Refrigerator-Pack-of-9/dp/B01FG62R4E/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">GE MWF SmartWater Compatible Water Filter For Refrigerator Pack of 9</a> <a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/GE-MWF-GWF-GWFA-MWFA-HWFA-and-HWF-Compatible-Replacement-Refrigerator-Water-Filters-3-with-Genuine-br-KleenWater-Can-Holders-2/dp/B00OPB73P0/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">GE MWF, GWF, GWFA, MWFA, HWFA and HWF Compatible Replacement Refrigerator Water Filters (3) with Genuine KleenWater Can Holders (2)</a> <a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/2-Pack-Best-GE-MWF-Water-Filter-Smartwater-Compatible-Cartridge-for-GE-Refrigerators-Ice-Makers-Compatible-with-General-Electric-MWF-GWF-GWFA-MWFA-Fridge-Filters/dp/B01BUIMY0O/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">2 Pack - Best GE MWF Water Filter Smartwater Compatible Cartridge for GE Refrigerators & Ice Makers - Compatible with General Electric MWF, GWF, GWFA, MWFA Fridge Filters</a> <a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/3-GE-MWF-SmartWater-Compatible-Refrigerator-Water-Filters-Designed-by-FilterBuy-to-replace-GE-MWF-GWF-GWFA-GWF01-GWF06-MWFA/dp/B01D3RDQU2/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">3 - GE MWF SmartWater Compatible Refrigerator Water Filters. Designed by FilterBuy to replace GE MWF, GWF, GWFA, GWF01, GWF06, MWFA.</a>

I wish I could no star or zero star. Do not buy any LG refrigerators AT ALL. Go and buy either Whirpool or Kenmore. I spend $2300 in 2011 and I am still paying on it. The door hinge in the middle was showing problem on day 1. I eventually called a few days after a year one and I had go through hoops to get that fixed for free as they kept on telling me about 1 year warranty. Then February this month, the refrigerator and freezer stopped cooling. Even if it is worldwide company, they are of course close on Sat-Sun which meant my food started rotting. I was lucky enough to have a small refrigerator in the garage which came to use. I called the 1-800 number and it gave me 5 - so called authorized local repair houses. When they heard that may be condenser or any of the cooling HW was bad - all except one REFUSED to repair the refrigerators. And by the way this is LP authorized person!! One guy came out charged $130 for a visit and told me that these refrigerators are extremely hard to repair. LG uses to foam to cover everything and finding leaks is a major hassle. This Portland OR guy who is LG authorized dealer tells me that it could 2-3 trips if the parts are not available or if he cannot find the problem and has to keep on testing. Mind you the condenser and other parts have a 7 year warranty with labor extra. BUT, even if that is true, no one - and I tried repair shops in OR and WA, would every want to repair LG refrigerators. So, there is warranty but no repairman wants to come and repair. The only shop that wanted to come told me that repairs would run $1000-$1200 on top of his first visit charge. That is half of the cost of the refrigerator. I called LG 7-8 times. I was always on hold. When I could talk to a person, they told me that they could not do anything. I told them about the episodes with repair shops and requested that they send LG representative and they would not. I told them I wanted to talk to the supervisor, and they would tell me that I could not to them (they were busy). When I insisted, they put me (90-120 min hold each time) and the supervisor gave the same - this is our policy and we cannot help. I told her that my last refrigerator worked (Kenmore) for 22 years and the only reason I bought a new one was for energy efficiency and because the some of shelves were broken and damaged and spares were hard to come by. In total, I must have spent close 15-18 hours on the phone mostly on hold. it is quite irritating that when the phone was answered they say LG - LIfe is Good and life has not been good. LG is Korean company and they do not give two hoots about satisfying the customer. If spares + labor takes half of refrigerator, there is something wrong with the car. LG DOES NOT STAND BY ITS CUSTOMERS. There is no intention of helping. They have no authorized LG refrigerator repair people and if there are none of the OR and WA people wanted to come. They told me these refrigerator are piece of garbage. They told me even they have problems working with LG to get parts which takes for ever and that's the reason for 2-3 visits because first part does not fix it they have come again and again as their computer does not even pin point where the cause is. It has to be serial process one by one - process of cause elimination. In Summary, I wasted $2300 on LG 3 door French refrigerator. If you want to be in the same situation, go ahead and spend your money. My suggestion is get an American built - Frigidaire, or Kenmore, and Whirlpool and not even entertain the idea of LG. I am not pissed and I am just sad when a company that says "life is Good" treats it customers so poorly. They will throw some policy in your face while the real policy should be to delight customers. I will never go again near LG and will strongly suggest any of my friends to do the same.

I wish I could no star or zero star. Do not buy any LG refrigerators AT ALL. Go and buy either Whirpool or Kenmore. I spend $2300 in 2011 and I am still paying on it. The door hinge in the middle was showing problem on day 1. I eventually called a few days after a year one and I had go through hoops to get that fixed for free as they kept on telling me about 1 year warranty. Then February this month, the refrigerator and freezer stopped cooling. Even if it is worldwide company, they are of course close on Sat-Sun which meant my food started rotting. I was lucky enough to have a small refrigerator in the garage which came to use. I called the 1-800 number and it gave me 5 - so called authorized local repair houses. When they heard that may be condenser or any of the cooling HW was bad - all except one REFUSED to repair the refrigerators. And by the way this is LP authorized person!! One guy came out charged $130 for a visit and told me that these refrigerators are extremely hard to repair. LG uses to foam to cover everything and finding leaks is a major hassle. This Portland OR guy who is LG authorized dealer tells me that it could 2-3 trips if the parts are not available or if he cannot find the problem and has to keep on testing. Mind you the condenser and other parts have a 7 year warranty with labor extra. BUT, even if that is true, no one - and I tried repair shops in OR and WA, would every want to repair LG refrigerators. So, there is warranty but no repairman wants to come and repair. The only shop that wanted to come told me that repairs would run $1000-$1200 on top of his first visit charge. That is half of the cost of the refrigerator. I called LG 7-8 times. I was always on hold. When I could talk to a person, they told me that they could not do anything. I told them about the episodes with repair shops and requested that they send LG representative and they would not. I told them I wanted to talk to the supervisor, and they would tell me that I could not to them (they were busy). When I insisted, they put me (90-120 min hold each time) and the supervisor gave the same - this is our policy and we cannot help. I told her that my last refrigerator worked (Kenmore) for 22 years and the only reason I bought a new one was for energy efficiency and because the some of shelves were broken and damaged and spares were hard to come by. In total, I must have spent close 15-18 hours on the phone mostly on hold. it is quite irritating that when the phone was answered they say LG - LIfe is Good and life has not been good. LG is Korean company and they do not give two hoots about satisfying the customer. If spares + labor takes half of refrigerator, there is something wrong with the car. LG DOES NOT STAND BY ITS CUSTOMERS. There is no intention of helping. They have no authorized LG refrigerator repair people and if there are none of the OR and WA people wanted to come. They told me these refrigerator are piece of garbage. They told me even they have problems working with LG to get parts which takes for ever and that's the reason for 2-3 visits because first part does not fix it they have come again and again as their computer does not even pin point where the cause is. It has to be serial process one by one - process of cause elimination. In Summary, I wasted $2300 on LG 3 door French refrigerator. If you want to be in the same situation, go ahead and spend your money. My suggestion is get an American built - Frigidaire, or Kenmore, and Whirlpool and not even entertain the idea of LG. I am not pissed and I am just sad when a company that says "life is Good" treats it customers so poorly. They will throw some policy in your face while the real policy should be to delight customers. I will never go again near LG and will strongly suggest any of my friends to do the same.

I'm sure the other reviewers received a working product. I did too, for the first few days. However, I had to have a service guy come out within the first week the fridge was delivered because the CustomChill door temperature selector buttons stopped working and the freezer drawer light doesn't work. The issue appears to be with the electronics or wiring. The technician has been out 3 times, and the problem still isn't fixed. To note, it's been a month and a half since the first visit. He has to contact LG directly while here because they haven't released the specs to technicians. After 2 part swaps, the issue remains. He said I should be getting a call from LG soon. I hope it's to replace the fridge. We bought the fridge to replace a 14 year old 26cu ft KitchenAid side-by-side because we wanted something more energy efficient. I was hesitant because the new models (from any manufacturer) have a lot of plastic pieces and metal-on-plastic pieces. This means those parts will wear out quicker and you (the consumer) will have to pay to fix them or buy a new fridge. Since it was on all similar models, we decided to go with LG because of overall reviews. The compressor probably will last since it's mechanical and LG puts a long warranty on it. We were a little disappointed with all the plastic because of the high price. The door-in-door is nice, but you have to really push on it to get it to stay closed instead of just swinging it closed. As annoying as it is, keep the door alarm activated. This has saved us from leaving the door-in-door open because it didn't close. Plan on two hand use for the ice and water dispensers. The water dispenser symbol will inevitably get scratched off soon because it's only painted on instead of etched in. The paint on ours already has some chips on it - again, cost savings for LG. The ice machine is small, and cubes have a tendency to build up in front of the sensor. This causes the machine to stop making ice because it senses the bucket is full, but it is not. This happens 2-3 times a week and always on the side closest to the door hinges. I recommend checking it often and knocking the ice down. The ice machine makes the left door stick out farther, so be sure to have plenty of room to open it fully. Otherwise, you can't reach in to grab items in the back of the fridge. Inside the fridge, there's plenty of room, and the space is configurable. The shelves are sturdy and can handle heavy items without flexing. The fridge compartment is also deep. My wife is 5'3" and can't reach to the back of the top shelves. I can't comment on the CustomChill drawer because we can't change the temperature, and we have no idea what the temperature is because the lights don't work. The sliding dividers are a nice option though to keep meats and other products separated. The freezer has 2 other drawers in there. However, this results in only a 10-inch clearance in the main compartment. I can't stand bottles up because of this. We spend a lot more time digging around for things too because the main compartment is deep and extend underneath the other drawers. Also, there is nothing filtering out the moisture in the air. Everything has ice crystals on the outside. The enormous size of the fridge presented problems when the delivery guys were trying to get it into my house. They had to pull out the drawers and take off the front door handles. Then, they had to open the doors and pivot the fridge through 34" wide doorway openings. Something to remember if you ever plan on getting it OUT of your house. Overall, we still have mix feelings about the fridge since we haven't noticed any decrease in this month's electric bill. The broken CustomChill drawer also colors our opinion of the fridge. Couple that with the liberal use of plastic-on-plastic and plastic-on-metal parts, and it's only a matter of time before new parts are needed (or a new fridge). The cost of the fridge is too much for this fact. However, I do want to reiterate again, that all the other fridges from other manufacturers did the exact same thing. Hopefully, this review provides some insight for those searching for a new fridge. If you want this one, then buy it on sale.

When I bought my new house, I got a new refrigerator to go with it. That was three years ago. The freezer is on the bottom with two pull out baskets. It had an ice maker kit that I could add but I did not have the lines installed, and figured I would not use it. Plus, the freezer started having issues less than a year of owning it; it would not defrost and leaked weekly. I repaired that but still was using ice cube trays. With pull out baskets, if you lay the ice cube tray flat, it might not be flat when you shut the drawer due to clearance or the tray moving when closing. I got used to never really having ice cubes and they were like gold if I needed them. If someone came over and used one and did not fill up the tray, I thought it was the most selfish thing in the world. How can they not see I have just a handful of ice cubes and not fill out the ones that they took? Yes, it was the bad. Plus, the ice cube in the trays are so big, they did not fit in drinks, only glasses. But I became used to it after awhile. Didnt like it, just accepted it. When I was offered the chance to review this ice maker, I felt like I won the lottery! With the end of a really hot spring and summer around the corner, I could have my own endless supply of ice cubes! No way, it seemed to be to be true. I feared it was going to be too heavy, take up too much room, I figured I was out of luck with ice cubes so I was thinking the worse. The day it was delivered, I watched it like a hawk arrive. My UPS guy carried it to the door on his front arm only. So the too heavy part was gone. Well, sort of. He is a muscle head. I picked it up and started to open it. I was not that heavy. I already found a place on the counter for my new favorite accessory. I cleaned out the inside with a warm soapy sponge and wiped it out. I then filled it up to the water level line and my daughter and I sat in chairs waiting to see what was going to happen. It does not make that much noise; we were able to talk as it was running, when the first scoop went up to get the first batch of ice cubes, we look like we never saw ice before. As it scooped it in the basket, we both wanted to try one. Not being patient we took them out with the included scooper and placed them in our drinks. We both love the size of them. We used the large ice cube setting. My daughter loved that her straw would go into the underside of the ice cube and was eating them. You would have thought we never saw an ice cube before. When they were done, we placed them in a small white bowl and placed the bowl in the freezer with the scoop. It was sitting flat on the basket. The ice tray was too long and short to lie down but the bowel was tall and had a small footprint, it fit. The next few days we were able to add them to our drinks. I like adding a few to my already bottled cold coffee. Because of the cylinder shape, they go right into the bottle. My daughter does the same with her Vitamin water, adds them into her drink at the top of the bottle. I have now owned this for several weeks and I run it once I week and it is enough ice for two people. I have noticed the first ice cubes that come out are not as big and cold so I usually scoop them out. I then wait until the others are done, place them in the bowl and put them in the freezer so we can grab them when we need them. A few things to note: When running the machine, pull it out from the wall and make sure the fan part has great ventilation. I also make sure I don't have a lot running on the same circuit but it has not been an issue. I used to unplug it shortly after use but notice water was still on the bottom. That is to be expected. However, if I leave it plugged in longer, the water recedes and there is not as much. I don't know how I lived without this thing. It is my favorite gadget in the kitchen now and my daughter always looks forward to making ice cubes now. I have since moved it off the counter and placed it on a kitchen rack I recently added. It looks gorgeous and does not take up much room. If you have owned a bread machine, it is about the same size but more pleasant to look at. I could not live without this now. It is used weekly and we are so spoiled by having ice cubes we can ice in our bottled drinks and cups. *I received a sample unit in for reviewing purposes

We bought this Panda Tumble Dryer (8.8lbs version) a few weeks ago. Ordered it very shortly after we received the Panda Twin Tub 10lb washer/spinner. And we love it. My wife and I live in Manhattan, and set up our Panda Washer/Spinner in the closet next to our bathroom. After cleaning out the closet, we managed to make space for the dryer as well, and it has officially become our personal laundry room. I was initially concerned that this 8.8lbs capacity dryer would be too small, since we have the 10lb washer... and we all know that if you stuff a dryer over full, it will take forever to dry. But that isn't the case. We use the washer's built-in spinner for both a rinse cycle (~3 mins) and a spin cycle (~3 mins)... which effectively 'wrings out' a vast majority of the water leaving everything damp. The dryer does it's job very well, drying a normal load in about an hour. Sure when it's stuffed full with jeans and heavy clothes it'll takes two hours... but it's our dryer, and just sits there chugging along. As long as we actually follow the instructions and don't over-stuff the washer, we never have to worry about over-stuffing the dryer. (Note: I fill the dryer tub up to the top, but don't squish anything down. As long as it fits comfortably, the load never takes more than an hour and a half.) Some sample laundry loads that fit: -- About 5-7 days of clothes for two people, as long as we don't change through too many pairs of jeans, including work clothes -- Two king size sheets plus sundries (some socks, underwear, tshirts, pillow cases, etc) -- Two bath towels, four hand towels, and a bathroom rug (it fits, but takes a bit longer, maybe 2 hours tops). Our setup, it's actually very simple to get started... 1) A standard outlet (we have an extension chord so both the washer/spinner & dryer can stay plugged in all the time) 2) We also got the 'Amazon recommended' indoor venting kit... which (as far as I can tell, and others have mentioned) is probably unnecessary, the built-in lint filter is incredible at it's job. 3) I also ordered the "Whitmor 6754-3655 Dryer Balls (Set of 4)". I never had dryer balls before, but since we prefer not to use fabric sheets, I gave them a try. They're actually pretty awesome. There are mixed reviews for them here on Amazon... but paired with the Panda dryer, 4 of these balls in the dryer seems to be the perfect number. Other Notes: 1) Ordering the dryer was simple, of course, right here on Amazon. I'm always wary of non-Prime orders, but the delivery date for the shipment was spot on. 2) Our dryer is in the closet, with the indoor venting kit. As mentioned, the built in lint catcher and the venting kit mean we have zero problems with dust flying around. However, the moisture of the laundry has to go somewhere. If we keep the closet door open, we don't notice the humidity at all. But if we close the closet door (don't recommend this), the entire closet fills with steam -- fogging up mirrors and wreaking havoc on anything else in the closet that was previously dry. 3) The lint filter is the round circle in the back of the dryer tub. It does generally need to be cleaned after every load, though we've gone two back-to-back loads before without a problem. It's a very good three-part filter, with the second mesh part doing most of the work and making it trivial to clean. I listened to the other commenters, who suggested taking our vacuum hose and sucking out the dust. Works like a charm every time, no issues at all. 4) I noticed that it definitely dries faster (gets hotter) when set to a higher time. I always set the dryer to the 220 minutes mark, and just turn it off when it's done. I've never had to let it go all the way, so I'm actually not even sure if there's a 'finished' buzzer. Overall, we are very happy with our purchase, and would highly recommend to friends and family who need something for their apartment. Enjoy.

I do love MOST things about this washer. I previously had a Kenmore Elite Calypso Top Loading HE for 12 years. I wanted to get back to an agitator/fill-with-water type washer because I didn't feel my clothes were getting as clean. Odd thing about this Speed Queen though, is in the User's Manual, it directs you to use a low-sudsing HE detergent (see picture!) Of course I read this after I'd gone out just to buy regular detergent and used it in the four loads I've done so far with fine results. I even ran an extra rinse cycle on this last load just to see if there was any remaining soap, but none of note. I will try it with the HE detergent that I have on hand to see if it still cleans well. Pros for this washer: - Will fill to the top on Extra Large setting. - The lid does not lock. You can open the lid at any time during the entire wash/rinse/spin cycle. - Very short wash times. - CLEAN laundry! Can actually smell the clean. Didn't notice the absence of that clean smell until I got it back with this washer. - End of wash signal. - Delayed start for up to 24 hours (haven't used this yet but looking forward to setting for early morning so laundry doesn't sit wet overnight.) - Extended, 5 year warranty on parts and labor comes with the washer. I've read that some people say you're paying for it in the cost of the washer, as the price used to be $300 less than current selling price. - Can set up to 9 different Favorite settings. - Different wash cycles have different spin speeds (e.g. delicate spins slower than permanent press). Cons for this washer: - The most annoying thing is that this washer will not fill, agitate or spin when lid is open. I can understand agitate and spin, but fill? Directions tell you to pour detergent in bottom of washer, then add clothes, THEN close the lid to add the water. That means some clothes are just sitting right on top of non-diluted detergent. This is a very annoying feature, and I would love to figure out how to override for at least the fill time. I even watched a video on YouTube before I bought, which showed a guy doing a load with the lid open. He doesn't state he's tweaked it in any way. He is using the AWNE82, and I have the AWNE92, but I can't imagine that Speed Queen changed that feature between their two electronic models. ***EDITED: I used the instructions and photos I found on the discussion forum of www.automaticwasher.org to bypass this feature - easy to do and works great now!. (http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?39369) I'm leaving this as a CON, however, because of the need to bypass it.*** - Size of tub is only 3.3 cubic ft. - however, I still was able to fit one queen sheet set and one twin sheet set and 5 bath towels in one load. - When delivered, the tub had a black film on it. You can't see it with the naked eye, but rub a white towel in the tub and you'll see it. I had read about this and was prepared, but it did take two no-clothes wash cycles, one rubdown with Goo Gone and FOUR rubdowns with Windex and a white towel before it was all cleaned off. - The only cycle for NORMAL is combined with the ECO setting, which starts with warm, then switches to cold water, regardless of your settings. Also, the directions say to not use the fabric softener dispenser on the ECO setting. This is annoying. So, instead I will set up a Favorite for my "normal". I've only had this machine for one day, so these are all initial impressions. I will update if anything of note happens. Even though it looks like I've listed many cons, these are minor, and overall I'm very pleased with the machine. One thing I realized, however, is if you don't use HE detergent, it may become hard to find regular detergent in the stores! Also, at the time of this writing, there were three pictures on Amazon for this unit. The main picture it is showing is NOT the AWNE92 with 9 cycle settings. It is showing the AWNE82 with 3 settings. I've attached a picture of my AWNE92 panel. ***EDIT: Update 1/2016 - still loving this machine, definitely worth the money!

First, I do not write many reviews. I am just a buyer, not affiliated with any companies or organizations. I feel so many reviews are fake and misleading. I have never really thought much about the tap water as the official city water reports make it sound like the water is safe - and I'm sure it ... So, I have an older Kenmore refrigerator - a Coldspot model. This water filter seems to fit well. I live in Phoenix, AZ in the city. I have never really thought much about the tap water as the official city water reports make it sound like the water is safe - and I'm sure it is according to official "government" approved levels - whatever those are. So I purchased this filter wanting to see and taste the difference. I also bought a water PPM tester https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073713G5F/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (it says Amazons choice with very good reviews). So, here is my initial testing results, some really shocked me. Costco (Kirkland brand) bottled water PPM = 23 Phoenix Tap water - PPM = 498 Water on the refrigerator AFTER flushing well over 4 gallons of water through this new filter - but installed same day as testing. PPM = 476 I have not tried drinking it yet so cannot attest to the flavor of the water, only the readings from the PPM tester. All water tested was at room temperature, I tested each water immediately after opening or pouring, and also filled 3 separate bowls with each respective water and let sit for 2 hours to eliminate any temperature differential, same results for each of the waters. I can also confirm the packaging my water filter came in DOES say NSF 42, 51, and 401 (I think I have those numbers correct). So my review so far is waste of money. I will update this review in about 2 weeks, after the filter has had time to really get set in. I also emptied my ice bucket so all ice will have been filtered through the filter. I plan to melt some ice in a bowl and test that water also since that's probably the biggest reason I bought this filter, living in Phoenix we use ice all day everyday. Hope this review helps. I do highly suggest the water PPM tester referenced above, it's not expensive and gives a good accurate (as far as I can tell) reading. If you care enough about water filters, a good tester should help you know what you are paying for. Update: 5/14/2018. I am dropping my review of this filter to a 1 star. I have flushed over 30 gallons (using 5 gallon water bottles) through the filter, using my tester on each bottle. It has slightly improved over the tap water results. Tap water is still 498ppm. Now the filtered water is 462ppm. So I read the data sheets for the filter, and it's level of certification and filtration. I still had questions, so I spent the last 3 hours on the phone with EveryDrop by Whirlpool. I was transferred to 5 different people, because they are all just sales people. I asked to speak to someone with manufacturing, product quality, etc.. There is no one available or that I can leave a message for or anything. They do not have anyone the consumer can speak to that can ask any questions beyond what is written on the package. I asked what is a realistic ppm reduction performance of the filter - they do not know. I asked when was the filter design last tested by NSF for certification - they do not know. I asked for any material to show it's testing status to be certified NSF, they do not have it. I think the filter is not certified, or even tested. They could not show any evidence of any kind their filters are certified. They also only referred to their own in house documentation to convey it's performance. So after spending almost $50 for this filter, I see very little reduction in ppm (parts per million), and even the company cannot answer any questions aside from typical sales questions. Ask them anything more detailed, they are lost. Highly disappointed. I will stick to the $10 filters, at least with those I have a very low expectation.

I bought this a year ago to have it on hand when my current PUR filter wore out. The old filter is losing its flow, so I tried to put this one in. It will not snap into place. I pushed very hard on it, and it simply will not snap in. To make sure I was doing it right, I put the old filter back in, and that one snapped right in, no problem. The new white filter looks the same as the old blue filter with some minor differences that were pointed out by other reviewers. It looks like those minor differences are keeping this filter from working properly. I called the Whirlpool help line, and after 15 minutes on hold I finally connected to a customer support agent, who talked me through the installation procedure. It was the same procedure I was already doing, so I was not doing it incorrectly before. The filter would not snap in. He thought that it might be the wrong filter, but I have triple checked everything. I have the correct filter model for my fridge. The service agent thought that there might be something wrong with this filter since I did not buy it from Whirlpool. He told me to order one from them and it will fit. I placed the order, but I have not received it yet, so I cannot report on whether or not a filter from Whirlpool (actually, Every Drop) will fit better than the one sold by Amazon. I will update this if/when I receive the new filter and try it out. BTW, the new filter cannot be returned to Whirlpool for a refund if I open the packaging. Without opening the packaging, I will not be able to tell if the new filter will snap in to place or not. So there really is no return policy. I am gambling my own 50 bucks on their hunch that the same filter from Whirlpool will fit while this one will not. The bottom line on this is that this filter does not fit in the Maytag MSD2559XEM refrigerator. Caveat. UPDATE: I ordered a filter directly from Whirlpool as recommended by their help line. The cost was $49.99 plus sales tax. I received the filter in about a week. The packaging of both the Whirlpool filter and the Amazon filter are identical, and the part numbers on the packaging, EDR3RXD1, are identical. The filters themselves are NOT identical. When placed side by side, you can see that on the Amazon filter, the body of the filter flares out as it goes into the end cap. On the filter from Whirlpool, the body flares out only a tiny bit, and meets the end cap mostly at a 90 degree angle. Other than that, they look identical. But that small difference seems to be key. The old blue PUR filter also does not flare out where the body goes into the end cap. The first time I tried to put the Whirlpool filter into the fridge, it did not snap in. However, I gave it one more try and replaced the old one to see exactly how much force is needed to get it to snap in. Even with the old filter, I had to give it one last nudge in order to get it to snap in, so I tried that on the Whirlpool filter, and it worked. So, the Whirlpool filter DOES fit, and the Amazon filter DOES NOT fit. I did not try to remove the new filter to see if it will come out. That would be tempting fate a bit too much. The bottom line is that there are at least two versions of this filter out there. One fits and the other does not, even though they carry the same part number. Caveat Emptor when buying third party filters. I ran water through the filter until it stopped spitting air (about two gallons). The water smells and tastes OK. I cannot detect any of the off odors or tastes that other reviewers have reported. The flow is fine. It will take a while to see how long the filter lasts. I am leaving this rating at one star because I am reviewing the filter that I bought from Amazon, not the filter that I bought from Whirlpool. They claim to be the same filter, but they are not. Because of the misrepresentation of the Amazon filter, I would remove my one star and give it a zero if I could. Caveat Emptor.

This ice maker is simple to run, simple to fill, plus easy to access the ice. It makes a hollow tube cube that is great for drinks. It is a great asset for people with small ice makers in their refrigerators and for entertaining--inside the home or out on the patio*. It has a relatively small footprint, not too loud or cumbersome. And it has a nice looking simple design. It's well-constructed, too. *Out of the weather and out of direct sunlight. We have a french door refrigerator. Never mind that it is the largest cubic foot model they make, the ice maker in the door is still inadequate for a thirsty small family during the summer months. For the past two summers--since we bought that darn frig--we have been running to the local corner store (five miles away is our closest...) for a bag of ice on the days that we are at home and working or playing in the yard. We vowed: Never again. This Ivation Portable Household Ice Maker is going to save us! I had a few concerns about getting a portable ice maker: How loud would it be? How far away from a water source could it be placed before losing the element of "convenience"? Would it have to run constantly? Would it make enough ice quickly? To answer briefly, and elaborate below: It is not too loud. It can be filled with a pitcher of water. You turn it on when you need it--you can have a glass of ice in a few minutes; with advance planning, you can have a bin of ice in two hours. It is not so easy to drain--and the instructions suggest that it be emptied and refilled every day you use it. While it is running, the noise it makes is not offensive: You can hear the water running/trickling into the ice making compartment; you can hear the motor fan; you can hear the ice shovel-er moving. After a few cycles, I hardly noticed it. I positioned it knee-high on a kitchen window seat. If it was up in my face on a kitchen counter, I might notice the noise more, but even then, the sound is not excessive. (The sound of the water moving in the machine is kinda' pleasant, actually. And watching the movement of the shovel is kinda' fun.) Picture this: When we have a gathering, we will place it on a stainless steel cart on the porch where there is a convenient wall outlet. This model has a small enough footprint that it can sit on the cart, along with glasses and napkins and a pitcher or two, for a very convenient drink station, with a cooler of canned and bottled drinks sitting next to it. This ice maker comes with a perfectly-sized ice scoop. (It surprised me how well it works. So many don't.) Under the safety instructions, it says this ice maker is not for outdoor use. I don't know why it says that, unless they are suggesting it should not be left out in the elements. I think putting it out of harms way, away from water, and away from direct sunlight, is adequate--but what do I know..... The ice compartment is not refrigerated, and the lid is not insulated, but the sides are. The ice compartment in the machine acts as an ice bucket, as the hinged lid lifts easily and the scoop fits inside. As the machine keeps cranking out ice, it is not a problem if you've got people grabbing ice almost constantly. (It says you only need to pause the machine if you are adding water.) It is interesting to note: The tube ice takes up more room in a glass than cube ice does, so you actually use less ice over time. I can fill it with a pitcher of water. But you cannot completely empty it of water unless you get it to the sink, and it is heavy. Even if I let it make ice until the water in the reservoir empties, the machine still holds water in hidden places (like the trough where ice is made). The machine needs to be taken to the sink, the plug removed, the machine tilted back and forth several times before all the water runs out. Then you need to dry it out with a soft, absorbent cloth. I leave the lid up until the inside is completely dry. (It condenses under the lid if you don't.) Then it is ready for the next use--whether the next day or the next week. I am really happy with this simple-to-use, very efficient and convenient ice maker. Maybe not so happy with the chore of draining it.... *I received a sample product from Ivation.

I've had it for a few days now and have put most of my laundry through it and it's still working fine with no leaks. I started with the unit elevated and draining into my tub after reading reviews about the pump being weak and it drains just fine like this. It is somewhat inconvenient not having it on the ground as now my dryer has to be an extra foot or so higher too. I don't have space for side-by-side. Also, if I'm washing jeans or something heavy, the wash bucket will shake the unit and I'm somewhat worried that if I'm not in there with it, it might rock itself from the shelf it's sitting on. I tried a load on the ground, and it drained fine the first time with the hose elevated from the outlet. However, the second time I tried to drain, it would not pump water. I immediately shut the pump off, raised the unit again so the drain hose had no elevation and it drained just fine. Also, I've found that if you turn the knob about half-way between the wash and drain settings, it opens the drain without activating the pump. So if the pump does fail, you should still be able to drain the unit as long as the hose is lower than the outlet. It is also not so convenient having to transfer clothes from one side and back several times throughout the wash, especially if you use fabric softener. It wouldn't be quite as bad if the spin drum was the same size as the wash tub so you can spin the full load. It's a little cumbersome having to find something to do with the first half of the wash after it's spun dry so you can load the other half of the wash into the spin drum. And messy. So minus points for an obvious design flaw. I also tried using the water inlet on the spin drum to speed things up and rinse while the clothes spin. Not only does this add stress to the machine as becomes apparent when you hear the drum react to the water, but the way the inlet is designed, the rinse water spins out before it gets to the clothes on the bottom. Also, the inlet hose under the panel on that side was kinked and I had to remove the panel and fix it. On the first use, the inlet hose immediately shot off and sprayed water everywhere. I think I was more worried about the opening in the back and water shorting out the machine more than anything. Luckily, no damage done. I think it's obvious to say that at least not every unit is inspected when they're built, so it's a crap shoot and you should know that. It's also important to go easy with the soap, or you'll have to run several rinse cycles. A little goes a long way and will save you wasted time. As far as noise is concerned, it's not really any louder than the exhaust fan in my bathroom, but it makes low end rumble that carries. Might make some angry neighbors if you don't live on the ground floor. The spin drum is not very loud either as long as you have the load balanced. With regards to durability, I feel like it would be great for an RV or any type of scenario where its use is limited to a week or two a year. It's mostly plastic, and I'm not really sure how well it's going to last. I live in a one bedroom apartment, so it will be used quite a bit. Overall, it saves having to walk to the laundry room and sit with my clothes so no one steals them. And it saves having to go out of my way to get quarters every week. So there's that. It doesn't leak yet, and it does get my clothes clean. I'm also not entirely certain that having it doesn't violate my lease, but I didn't care. The only time maintenance would go in my bathroom is if I have a service order on it, and I fix all my own stuff cuz I don't like people in my house when I'm not here. I give it four stars because it does what it says it does. Obviously at this price, not every inch of the machine is free of defect, but that's what you get for being on a budget, so I don't fault the manufacturer for that. Good for a pinch maybe, but it would have probably been wiser for me to have waited and gotten a name brand, well-built machine. So this machine gets from me a score of "meh".

This machine requires a little more motivation than a fully automatic model but is worth every penny of the price for our family. We live in a large city in an area that can be sketchy at night. In order to use the mini laundry in the building; I have to bring laundry down three flights of stairs, outside the security gate, walk about a fourth of a block to the gangway security gate, swipe in and go down a half flight of stairs to the laundry room. The machines are $1.75 a wash and $1.50 a dry. Then I have to carry up everything in reverse order. When I rush it takes me eleven minutes to get to the laundry room, load the wash, start the machine and get back upstairs. Other than the inconvenience and high price of using the mini wash, I am unwilling to leave my child alone in our home unsupervised. We are a small family and this machine may not be the best choice for a family of six who work outdoors on a farm, but for a small family who goes to school and work indoors it is perfect! We owed the fully automatic Haier washer and it stopped working just about the time it paid for itself. We have also owned the extreme mini washer with a nina spin dryer. This compact washer is right in between the two. It is not as automatic as the Haier, but it is able to wash larger loads of laundry and it is much more efficient than the extreme mini wash and nina spin dryer combo. The wash tub holds about a half sized load of a normal sized washer. I typically wash like items together that are color sorted. It will fit a king sized fitted and flat sheet to wash. There seems to be space to wash bath towels but the weight of the fabric doesn't allow the fabric to "swish" like it should. I am able to wash all of my clothing and our child's clothing, all the sheets and pillow cases, and all my husbands work shirts, pants, tee shirts, etc. in this washer. The bath towels, blankets, and my husbands heavy jeans still entail a trip to the mini laundry in the building or to the full sized laundry mat down the street. The intake hose will not fit your faucet so you will need a quick trip to the hardware store, it is worth it if you want to use the inlet hose. However, as others have mentioned, it is faster to fill the wash tub with a bucket. I also find it faster to rinse with the bucket rather than the inlet hose. The most efficient wash/rise/dry cycle that works for us: 1 - Fill the wash tub with clothing, drizzle a VERY small amount of HE detergent. (Really use half the amount you would for a full sized load. It is a very tiny amount.) 2 - Fill the wash tub with a Home Depot "orange bucket" from the bath tap with water at the temperature of your choice. I really like being able to choose the temperature for both the wash and rinse cycles. Set the wash timer to wash and let the machine wash. 3 - When the wash cycle is complete, you can keep the wash water for another load (if it isn't dirty) or drain the wash water. 4 - Lift half of the sopping clothing over to the spinner, load and spin for approx a minute. 5 - Once most of the soapy water is spun out, fill the bucket with rinse water and pour over the clothes in the spinner. Spin out for about a minute. You can add splash of vinegar as fabric softener or rinse an additional time if you prefer. 6 - Hang up the barely damp clothing while spinning out & rinsing the other half of the wash load. I do all of our laundry in much less time than it wold take me to go up and down the stairs to the mini wash. Additionally, I don't have dirty laundry sitting around in hampers waiting for a full load of whites or darks to wash. You can do loads as small as one shirt or as large as 4 -5 pieces of clothing since you control the water level. I save a lot of money on dry cleaning by using the gentle cycle and cold water to wash wool base layers and work blouses. Silk can also be washed on the gentle cycle without tearing as this uses an impeller rather than a centered agitator in the wash tub. It is very lightweight and I am able to carry it to the pantry to be stored when not in use. Overall, it is very apartment friendly!

I've owned the Haier HLP24E portable washing machine for three weekends now, and have used it for 2-3 loads per weekend with zero problems. Before I was able to use the washer however, I needed to find a 10-ft drain hose. Haier only supplies a 5-ft drain hose. However, there are 15 inches of countertop between the right side of my kitchen sink and the space that I could place the washer, plus the drain port on the washer is on the far side from my sink (on the right side of the washer, at the bottom and near the back). I carefully measured, and determined that I needed a drain hose no less than 10.0 ft. The drain port on the Haier HLP24E portable washer is 1.0" O.D. (1. inch outer diameter), so the drain hose must have a connector that is 1.0" I.D. (1.0 inch inner diameter). The Frigidaire 154225602 (the "Electrolux 154225602" as per the packaging) Drain Hose has a 1.0" I.D. at both the 90-degree connector and at the straight connector. I connected the 90-degree connector to my washer and routed the hose around the back and then over to my sink. The hardest part of finding a drain hose that would work for my new washer and kitchen layout was that every website that I was able to find that sells drain hoses (including Amazon) does not, in the vast majority of cases, list the inner diameter of the hose connections and the overall length of the hose. It took me days of searching until I found that the Frigidaire 154225602 (aka. the "Electrolux 154225602") fits the Haier HLP24E portable washer, and is 10 ft long instead of the OEM hose which was 5 ft long. One thing that is nice about this hose for portable clothes washers or portable dishwashers is that it is transparent, so you can see the water level inside. That makes disconnecting it from your sink easier to do without spilling any water on the floor, because you can see exactly where the water level is inside the hose while you are relocating the hose after using the washer. The washer itself is the nicest washer I have used in 36 years. Literally. There is no agitator inside, so there is actually quite a bit of room inside for laundry. I am 6'1" and have a larger-than average frame, so my articles of clothing are larger than average as well. But I can just fit 7 days of my "lights" in one load, and 7 days of my "darks" in a second load. That is similar to the capacity of traditional full-size washers with the agitator. All of the controls are digital, allowing the engineers to be able to design very intelligent steps in the wash cycles. I use the "Heavy Duty" cycle, because the water in my town is hard (full of minerals) and therefore clothes don't rinse free of detergent very well unless you use warm or hot water to dissolve the soap and then later use a second rinse cycle. One extra-nice feature is that as the washer is filling with water each time, it repeatedly spins the wash basket a little, to get the clothes at the sides equally wet. That wasn't a feature in the previous washers I've used. The wash basket also contains two lint traps which work very well. I've used too many washers without lint traps; those washers leave debris on your linens, essentially requiring you to then run them through a dryer to remove the lint. In contrast, the lint traps in the Haier HLP24E do such a good job that I don't need to use a dryer to remove lint, allowing me to hang-dry all of my laundry on two laundry racks that I have in my apartment. Just keep at least one or two windows open 1 inch or a half an inch, and the washer gets the clothes so dry that 24 to 36 hours later, all of my laundry is completely dry. That saves me a lot of money by not having to use the dryer each week, it saves me hours of each weekend, and my clothes last a lot longer too and never shrink.

Overall, This is a decent cheap way to wash your clothes efficiently.. as long as your living by yourself. it really doesnt really hold 11 lb of clothes. It holds maybe 5 or 6 lb before the motor starts straining. One change of clothes should weigh anywhere between 1-4 lb. so you should be able to wash almost 3 changes of clothes.. correct? This thing can barely hold and wash 2 changes of clothes before the motor starts straining. idk what the other reviews are complaing about with the pump... This thing pumps water like a beast. I can drain the whole tub in no more than 2 minutes, the sink drain has trouble keeping up with it. And it can push it up over the edge of the sink with no issues. It actually blew itself off the sink at one point! luckily i managed to catch it quick enough and not get too much water all over the place. when it is almost fully drained, It cannot push the last bit of water up over into the sink due to it sucking air, So you will have to lower the hose into some sort of bucket. I use a gallon jug that I cut the top off of. The remainder is maybe a quart or so. Not very much. The hose is a bit long. Could be a little shorter. it lays in the sink a little bit if I want the upward pipe to be straight instead of on an angle holding more water weight. the included clean water tube fit my faucet just fine, And its just a normal plain old boring faucet. was plenty long enough, Again if anything, A little too long. Agitation in the wash part is very rough if it has the right amount of clothing or less. water whirls around so forcefully it will walk away on you, So you might have to watch it. Ive been washing my clothes at 10 minutes, With normal good ol tide, The non HE stuff, and only use level 1 of 6 on that cap., and it seems to be just the right amount. Ive gotta say, It does seem to clean my clothes very well, But I figure thats due to the rough agitation. Water can sure get dirty! I have not tried the soft setting yet, But I might do that for an upcoming socks and boxers load. the lint catch does seem to be useless. There seems to be some black strips of rubber that are supposed to be wedged in the sides of it to let lint in and not out... but they really don't stay in place. I see the concept of it working, But its parts are garbage So it doesnt work. spin dryer is eh. Could be better. it gets most of the water out. I spin for 5 minutes. Rinse the first 2 and just spin dry for the remaining 3. It will dry boxers to the point you can put em on right there. Socks are dry to wear in 2 or 3 hrs. Shirts can come out and be dry in roughly 3 or 5 hrs, And pants can take up to 10 hrs if they are thicker material or have alot of pockets.to do a change of clothes a day in advance is no problem at all. It is however, VERY noisy. when I apply water like the clothes were in a rinse cycle it sounds EXACTLY like I am cutting studs out of a wall with a reciprocating saw. and I mean exactly. probably the exact volume too. When I stop applying water, It tones down quite a bit but it is a little noisier than It probably should be. It actually seems to balance quite well. There have been a time or two where I would have to move stuff to get it to spin right but it spins fast and works. I wouldnt recommend putting more than a pair of pants and a few changes of socks in there, Or 2 or 3 shirts in there at a time. knobs seem to be nice and tight. Egg timers are a little noisy, You can hear them clicking as they are counting down, But its covered up by the wash and spin. plastic body is very cheap. will crack if dropped. amazon said this package weighs 25 or so lb but the ups tracking page said the whole thing including the box was 16.2 lb.. so idk whats right. instead of coughing up quarters and having to either use the laundrymat in your apartment building or have to actually drive to a laundrymat, this seems to be a decent investment. I will update in the future on longevity of this washer.

I was dubious at best. I have worked residential construction most of my life and know that there is a big difference between a good dishwasher and a bad one. I also know that difference is not always based on "brand" or "price", it is based on how well it was designed. The first thing I noticed when I got the box was that it was really light, usually not a sign of "quality" in my book. I did notice though that it was very well packed. Double boxed with a lot of foam. I pulled it out of the box and set it on the counter for my first real look. 1. Finish looked pretty good, the door was a little off from being straight, but in reality it was less than a 16th of an inch off. As a finish carpenter we get a little too picky sometimes. 2. Opening the door I saw there was a good amount of tape and reinforcement to hold everything in place while shipping, nice! 3. Set-up was probably the easiest for an appliance I have ever done. There is a nice sink faucet adapter that replaces your sink screen that should easily fit most newer faucets. (This is the only real flaw I see in the whole machine) The adapter that the hoses hook to replaces the screen on your faucet and just leaves a hole about 1/4" for the water to come out when not using the dishwasher. Well you know what happens when you restrict your garden hose down to a small size. That's right the pressure goes way high. The first time I turned on the water to wash something by hand the water hit the bottom of the sink and rebounded from the sink bottom and sprayed a good deal of the surrounding area. I am not sure how this can be fixed short of changing out the adapter every time and replacing the screen. But that would be a pain. Just use a little caution the first few uses. 3. The hoses both connect to the sink using a fitting not unlike a typical "shop air tool quick release fitting. The hoses have very different threaded ends on the appliance end making it vitually impossible to mix them up. 4. Plug in the power cord and you are installed. The instructions call for a dish detergent as well as a liquid water drop residue remover. For the first run I thought I might as well give it a good run for it's money. I packed it with glasses some with dried milk in the bottom, plastic containers used for spaghetti sauce, a Pyrex dish that had been used for lasagna and a handful of silverware. I had only barely scraped the containers and Pyrex the night before so there was a fair amount of dried food on them. I picked the heavy duty setting to be fair and waited. When I opened the door I will have to say I was no less than astonished! Everything was spotless. The wine glasses were well, spotless and totally dry. The milk glasses, the same. I pulled out the Pyrex last knowing that was the big test. TOTALLY CLEAN! I have owned some really high end washers in my life and this washer despite its diminutive size produces right up there with them. REALITY: 1. It is very small. I would say 5 place settings and a few serving utensils about max it out. 2. I have had a few things come out with a small amount of dried food on them, but I rarely pre-rinse. 3. My hot water heater is set pretty high so the water coming in is already very hot. Does this make difference, I don't have any idea. 4. I always run the hot tap water before hooking up the machine so I know it starts with good hot water. 5. When not in use the 5' of double hose need a home, and be sure to drain the water out of the hoses into the sink after letting off the pressure with the little button because there will be more and it will end up soaking your countertop. Conclusion: A great machine! I would buy it again. I would recommend it to anyone. I am actually going to be installing mine permanently into the wall which I can already see is going to be a chore. From what I can tell none of the fittings on the hoses are standard size and thread, so Mr. Creative is going to have to go to work. I called the factory and they won't even discuss the possibility of permanent mounting so no help there, but it's not supposed to be permanently mounted so I can see their point. If you are short on space and tired of washing dishes by hand, this is the washer for you.

This thing is the Toyota Camry of washing machines. The style is certainly not going to impress anyone, but this thing is solid, reliable engineering goodness that will run for decades. If you want to impress people with the looks of your washing machine, buy a Samsung or and LG. If you want to, I don't know, CLEAN YOUR CLOTHES, then this washer right here is the thing that you want. Add to cart is this-a-way --> First and foremost, this is *not* a "high efficiency" or "HE" washer. "Oh noes! But the environments!" you say. Here's the deal: the standards to which High Efficiency washers are held are extremely tough. Meaning it has to wash your cloths with very little water, and very little warm water to boot. So the Samsungs and LG's of the world use a bunch of complicated methods to try to clean your clothes using a very limited amount of water and heat. These methods include: * Flinging your clothes around in all manner of directions, speeding up, slowing down, stuttering and flitting about, all in an attempt to dislodge that pasta sauce you dropped on your power tie right after telling Charise in accounting how you can never eat pasta without dumping it on yourself. * Using special detergents that don't get all frothy. Ever wonder why you have to have that "HE Compatible" detergent? It's because the washer flings around the water so much, any normal soap would end up looking like a poorly poured bud light. * Sprays water on your soapy clothes to rinse them, instead of submerging them in clean water. * Uses cold or "cool" water to save on energy using fancy temperature sensors to mix the water to just the right temperature of "3pm salad bar chicken wings" * Run for way longer, in an attempt to fatigue the dirt into submission 'Well, all that doesn't sound so bad!' you say. 'What's wrong with that? I want to be environmentally friendly.' Well, I'ma tell you: * It doesn't clean clothes worth an onion. * It takes forever and a day to not accomplish its charge * The machines are so complicated in trying to do the above, they break all the danged time. The Speed Queen works the same way that washers worked for years before all this "HE" nonsense. Namely: * Fill up a tub with a bunch of warm or hot water * Add some nice frothy soap * Agitate the snot out of it * Drain it all out * Fill it up with clean water * Agitate the snot out of it * Spin it all out * Grab a beer, and reflect on a job well-done in half the time of those new fangled machines And environmentally, here's the thing: these new HE washers are so prone to breaking down, they are rarely lasting any longer than 3, 4, 5 years, where a good old-fashioned agitate-the-snot washer could easily last 15 or 20. So we're dumping these giant plastic and metal machines into landfills at a greatly increased rate. Which is worse, using some more water and heat energy, or regularly dumping an appliance the size of a small aircraft into the ground to be buried for some sad future archeologist to discover, and incorrectly identify as an "electric salad spinner." There is one caveat you should know about this washer. Because everyone is so obsessed with Energy Star ratings, Speed Queen was falling way behind on theirs, and getting terrible ratings in product comparisons. So they adjusted their "Normal" cycle to be "Eco friendly." Meaning, it doesn't use hot water, and doesn't do a full rinse. So, if you want all of the benefits of having this machine, do not use that cycle. Use any other cycle on the machine. This thing also has a killer warranty that you will probably never need. 5 years parts AND labor. If you've ever had one of those name brand washers, and tried to use the warranty, you know how important that "labor" part is. So, for your next washer, you can buy a plastic, blingy money pit that does a terrible job of cleaning clothes, but might make the random overnight house guest think you really "have your stuff together" or, you can buy this machine, which will clean the everything out of your clothes, and do it for years.

The Whirlpool refrigerator that I own began leaking water on the floor and developing ice in the bottom of the freezer compartment. When I researched the problem on YouTube, I found several videos that identified the source of the problem. It seems that Whirlpool designed a "duck-billed" grommet attached with a trough to dispell water into the drain pan during defrost cycles. This fitting is easily plugged up by sediment in the water because of its narrowness. This prevents the water from flowing into the trough. Instead it leaks into the freezer compartment and becomes frozen. That ice then melts on defrost cycles and flows directly onto the floor under the freezer compartment. Whirlpool developed this part which looks like a sink trap to resolve the problem. The "duck-billed" shaped grommet is replaced by a small cylindrical tube like spacer that is connected to solid tubing and allows the water to pass freely to the drain pan. This replacement tube does not get plugged up so it should stop water from leaking into the freezer compartment. Then during the defrost cycle, the absence of that ice assures that no water will be present and thus no leaks onto the floor. It was VERY EASY to install if you follow the cited video CAREFULLY. I am waiting to see if in fact the problem is resolved in the coming week. SHAME ON WHIRLPOOL! They knew about the defective part and even created the new part as a replacement. But they NEVER informed their customers or issued a recall and either a free or discounted replacement part. The customer only finds out when the water begins to appear on the floor! The price for this replacement part from Whirlpool directly is double the price offered by Amazon for the same. It seems Whirlpool was counting on paid service calls and profit from the new replacement part. To me, this is toal disregard for its customers and smudges Whirlpool's reputation. The part is worth the money but Whirlpool needs to hear from us! UPDATE: After I installed this part, I STILL had the original problem of water leaking onto the floor! Researching further, I learned that the ice build up around the evaporator must be removed as well as the possible ice blockage at the port leading to the drain pan. I reviewed many solution options to resolve this problem - including a removal of all the shelves in the freezer compartment - to remove the ice. I chose a pretty simple method: perform a full, manual defrost without dismantling the freezer compartment. Before implementing the fix, I prepped as follows: 1. I filled two empty, gallon-sized milk containers with water and froze them overnight. This formed two blocks of ice that last far longer than packaged ice or ice cubes. 2. The next day, I purchased a five pound bag of dry ice from the local Publix. 3. I completely emptied the ice maker and then disconnected the refrigerator from its power source. 4. I then removed all the food, placing frozen items in a large styrofoam container with the dry ice and refrigerated items in two other styrofoam containers with the created block ice. 5. Next, I removed the ice that accumulated on the bottom of the freezer compartment (which was the source of the leaking). 6. I allowed the refrigerator to defrost for seven hours and used a hair dryer to melt ice that accumulated on the evaporator and in the drain path, while wiping up any water that made its way to the bottom of the freezer compartment. If the shelving is not removed from the freezer compartment, it's a bit of a tight situation to aim the hair dryer ... but it is possible. 7. Lastly, I connected the refrigerator back into the power source, set the freezer and refrigerator settings to the RECOMMENDED TEMPERATURES on the digital displays, per the manual, and correctly adjusted the humidifier settings for the fruit and vegetable bins. The refrigerator has been operating properly, with NO leaks for about two weeks now! There is zero ice accumulating in the freezer and thus no water leaking onto the floor. The installed replacement drain tube gives a wider and direct flow path to the drain pan for the water created during defrost cycles of the refrigerator. WHAT IS SIGNIFICANT HERE IS that installation of the drain tube itself will probably NOT resolve the leaking problem, since the ice build up will not go away with normal defrost cycles. It's almost certain that the manual defrosting MUST ACCOMPANY the drain tube replacement for full resolution.

I just bought this machine after my old reliable 15 1/2-year old Kenmore extra large capacity washer broke due to an unfortunate imbalance situation. I never had any problems with that machine, ever. In terms of functionality, this Speed Queen machine is horrible. I had a continuous water level option in my old Kenmore washer and wasn't restricted to some preset factory water level as this Speed Queen has. (I am appreciative of the fact that I have some control over the water level at all, though, given what has happened with other brands.) In my Kenmore machine, I had both a Delicate and a Handwash setting to select unlike this new machine which only has the Handwash setting. And, I was able to open the lid during the operation of my Kenmore so that I could view the agitation speed and make necessary adjustments to the wash cycle. This Speed Queen prevents me from seeing what's going on because the machine stops running when the lid is raised. Contrary to the description above, there are only three wash settings to choose from. The Normal ECO setting is a joke. It's supposed to use less water and it does because there's no rinse cycle though it's listed on the control panel. What you get in this rinse is two sprays of water along with continuous spinning. How is that rinsing the soap off of the clothes? Ironically, the machine has an option for a 2nd rinse on the Heavy Duty and Handwashing setting for those with sensitive skin. I'm thinking that anyone who uses the Normal ECO setting will develop a new sensitivity to the soapy residue that will inevitably cling to their clothes after not having it rinsed off with a full immersion rinse. Stupid design. And the Rinse cycles in the other two wash settings appear to be very brief in duration. I will have to shut off the machine to allow the clothing to sit in the water longer in the hopes that more soap will be removed than otherwise possible with a short exposure to the rinse water. The inability to view the wash in progress to ascertain if the agitation speed is too fast, too slow, or just right is a big negative for me. I will have to blindly select a wash setting and hope that it does the job without destroying my clothes. I tried the Heavy Duty setting on my old Kenmore once and it was so powerful that I had to abort the cycle and switch to Normal agitation. I have no good way of determining if this Heavy Duty setting in the Speed Queen will be too fast or not until after I try it out. Finally, this new machine is so much smaller in capacity than my old Kenmore was. I will have to do two loads with the Speed Queen just to approximate one load in my extra large capacity Kenmore. I'm not saving on electricity or water usage. I suppose if they made them bigger the weight would become an issue. They weigh 195 lbs. with the stainless steel drum. Bottom line is that I will have to monitor the machine during use in order to stop it while in the Normal ECO or Handwash setting and move the dial to another setting to try to achieve the results or performance that I had with my old Kenmore. There isn't going to be any "automatic" set it and wait for the washing machine to finish anymore. I'm going to be irritated every time I do laundry. It's clear that the washing machine industry has been decimated by the water restricting regulations of the Dept. of Energy that will be fully implemented by 2017 and by the fact that too many, if not all, of our appliances are being made in China. I was looking at the offerings in the space heater sector a few months ago and the extensive list of complaints about shoddy performance and unreliability among all brands is a call to action, in my opinion. It's great that Speed Queen is made in the U.S. and that it's a supposedly reliable machine, hopefully. Now, if other brand manufacturers would heed their customers' complaints and stop importing crap from China and start making their products domestically, things might improve for the consumer. I can't afford to keep replacing substandard appliances on a regular basis. Not only that but broken appliances, etc., litter the landfills and that's not good at all. So, speak up, people if these are issues that concern you too.

<div id="video-block-R17PY3089ESRAU" class="a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block"></div><input type="hidden" name="" value="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/D1aAmijdu7S.mp4" class="video-url"><input type="hidden" name="" value="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/01lo1N9XHtS.png" class="video-slate-img-url">&nbsp;&nbsp;Keep your expectations in check - and you may get some value here. You will see very clearly in the video how much ice this can actually make in about an hour. It is all great and well to talk in terms of lbs of ice but what is the point unless you can relate it to what would go in a drink? I think if your are buying it to entertain more than 4-6 people you may find it lacking - as stated keep your expectation in check it can not perform miracles but it is very handy for small gatherings or just when you need some quick cubes. It makes 9 cubes per batch and they take between 8-10 minutes by my testing. Even though its rather utility in function it is a great design and looks rather expensive and would probably into most kitchens aesthetically (the older one functioned well but it was a bit of an eye sore) I tried to get some good angles on the video I did to show it off since it really is a nice looking machine. The design lines are good and the backlit LCD gives it a it of a modern appliance style (and very easy to use etc). A step up from the older model in design, and it makes a fair amount all things considered but its really only useful for a small gathering (Again Im estimating 4-6 people if you give it an hour to produce the first batch) The cubes were OK and it gave an option for three size although they are not hugely different. It will make the medium cubes in about 8 to 10 minutes but the large are probably best since the time taken is only slightly more (although depends on the drink you want to make really - frankly they are not that different between sizes). Initially it took about 10 mins for a batch but it reduced to about 8 when the machine was into gear (it makes 9 cubes per batch so just enough for 1-2 drinks). The first batch is a little smaller also so in practical terms you are looking at about 20 mins from startup to get up and running with enough ice for two drinks from a cold start IMHO. This is quite a heavy unit so portability wouldnt be its strong suite. It weighs in at 24lbs! which means you make a considered discussion as to where you are going if its going with you - it might require a bit of planning it isn't something you can just throw in a bag over the shoulder. Its job is to make ice though and it that it does its job well. Fill it with water and choose your size setting and then just wait for ice - although its best to use it as it comes otherwise the ice can clump up a little bit when it is full. The ice is wet ice so it will water down whatever it is being put into a little even straight away. If you stockpile some in the freezer it should dry up a little but it will likely clump with the wet surface freezing to each other. It just requires a little planning - Eg. make batches and put it in your freezer to keep perhaps but it isn't something you really need to worry about. The design means that when you turn it off or stop it the ice will simply melt and return to the reservoir which is very cool, although not the smartest idea to be using still water after a day or so - Probably smart to drain it and start again if your not doing ice the next day. You only really need this kind of thing for a small party OR if you need some quick ice for a few drinks. The benefit being speed but it can only do so much and doesnt produce buckets of ice that might be required depending on the size of your gathering - and it also depends on the type of drinks your going to be making / drinking. It is just under two large glasses an hours which would make about 6-8 drinks perhaps so if your are an hours ahead of your party you should be able to keep up with your ice needs (or just have some backup in your freezer) With knowledge of what it can actually DO - not just the marketing hyperbole I still think it is pretty cool. It isn't enough for a large party but with its nice aesthetic I have no problem leaving it out on the counter - and using it when needed for a small gathering. Product provided for review - its just my opinion.

I live in an apartment complex where the cost to wash clothes for me and my 2 children was becoming very costly to use the laundry room. I was so happy to find this product since receiving it meant that I didn't have to carry laundry across 4 buildings to use the 1 laundry room in the complex. When the machine was first delivered, I unpacked it and used it the same day. I immediately didn't like the flimsy little hose that's suppose to attach to the faucet but doesn't. I also didn't like the fact that there was no rubber seal around the lid of the washer, which caused water to seem out from the lid during the wash/rinse cycle so I always had water to clean up off of the floor, though not a lot at all...I usually could clean it up with a couple of paper towels. Lastly, I didn't like the fact that it doesn't have wheels on it to make it just a little bit more portable. This machine was delivered on time, so I was happy about that. Overall, I loved the machine when I first used it and I was extremely impressed with how well it performs in terms of cleaning....VERY IMPRESSED!! However, after using the machine about 3 times in one month, it stopped draining. I'm not sure if the pump stopped working properly or what, but none of the water drained from the machine. I had to transfer the laundry to spin dry without any of the water draining. By the time I was finished with my last load, I was stuck with a machine full of water and the only way I was able to drain it was to use a pot to pull most of the water out of it and then get somebody strong enough to move it with the water that was left and put it in my bathtub so I can level the other flimsy little hose and drain the water that way. It still washes pretty good but considering the manual work I already have to put into it, which I really don't mind, I can't see having to struggle to move it with a tub full of water after every load just to get my laundry done. I'm returning mine in the hopes of getting a better, more durable and reliable portable machine from elsewhere. I'm so disappointed because in spite of my initial dislikes, I quickly grew to love the little machine after the first use. ***THIS IS AN UPDATE TO MY LAST REVIEW*** Customer service is beyond excellent! They have gone above and beyond to help me get my issue with this machine resolved. I couldn't be more pleased with all that they've done. After my first review, I was almost immediately contacted by a rep and they sent another machine to replace the one that stopped draining. The second machine I received was damaged in transit and guess what....they sent me another one!! I'm still super pleased with the performance of this little machine! I'm a mother who has raised 3 kids into adulthood and currently raising 2 elementary school-aged children and for as long as I've owned the standard size washing machines and dryers over those years (this is my first time using a compact washer), I don't recall my clothes ever being as clean as they get with this machine. My whites are brighter then ever and I've noticed stains come out of my clothes much better. I've never been a fan of washing machines without agitators but this one really gave me some faith in the capabilities of such washers. There is a lot of manual involvement, but considering the money I would otherwise be spending to use the laundry room in the apartment complex I live it and the money I would be spending, I really don't mind the MINOR labor at all! I still say that the machine should come with more sturdy inlet and drain hoses, as they are extremely flimsy (I've found a way to use both so that I can use the machine as intended without much complication at all), a set of wheels so that I can push or pull it instead of carrying it to my kitchen from where I store it when not in use (I know it's not all about me, but I'm just saying :-) ), and it definitely needs a rubber seal of some sort around the wash lid. Other than that, I don't think I could ever expect anything better than what I've gotten from the performance of this machine to the customer service I've received to resolve the issue I had with the first one, especially at the price I paid. I have to say that if it doesn't last beyond a year (I hope it does), I wouldn't hesitate to buy another one to get me through the next year simply because I know that any problem I have will be promptly taken care of.