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UPDATE -- bought 3 years ago still going strong. Get more WOWs on this than anything else in house. Love the instant on/off--a pot boiling over just goes to simmer instantly with temp adjustment. Not sure if the glass on the underside is slightly bumpy for ventilation, or maybe the paint underneath makes it background grey look a little like 3D metal bevel/hash..very nice. See pic. I got this unit at exactly the time expected . I DID HAVE TO SIGN FOR IT !! The box was well strapped, but not taped shutIt was in perfect shape upon delivery. Pros: 1 Love the color, not black, not stainless steel, just in between and amost granet-like under glass. Beautiful and Unique. 2 the glass top is completely free on all logos, and guide marks these are all protected beneath the glass. They don't rub off--ever 3 fit with only inches to adjust where my old GE 36 electric white with electric burners, center electric griddle, and drip catchers used to be 4 Incredibly more easy to clean !!!! The glass is smooth on top and nothing protrudes 5 came with a 2 burner steel griddle pan that heats both ends and less heat in middle .. It is a real advantage and used a lot. The EHHH???: 1 its Glass ??? just not sure yet about how well thats going to work--SOLVED I LOVE IT 3 YEARS LATER-REALLY VERY HEAVY DUTY 2 definite learning curve-is like cooking over a gas flame-instant heat on-instant heat off. Taking some time to get used to.--SOLVED 3 only lost one non-magnetic pan in the transition the others that a magnet would stick to work fine--ALL BUT 1 PAN WORK FINE 4 Surprise the cast iron pans work but, so heavy and worry about scratching or breaking glass so far though doing fine as long as 2 hands lift/place and not dragged across the glass *I am being overcautious SOLVED, JUST LIFT TO MOVE OR TURN OFF-PUT A REGULAR QUILTED OVEN PAD UNDER IT -- MOVES JUST FINE, 2 HAND PICKUP, JUST DON'T DROP IT ON STOVETOP The Bad 1 having to take it slow, sometimes cant, just the paranoia is a bummer, but that could be just me. - SOLVED 2 when using multiple burners mine has a buzz when more than one is on high. A balanced burner temp on all of the burners seems to help. It takes a little bit to find the hummless zone if using all burners on hi, another learning curve thing.- SOLVED - BUZZING JUST QUIT W/ TIME 3 tight fit leaves not a lot of room for the under vent in the back underneath to blow, but no problems yet. -- NEVER OVERHEATED 3 YEARS ------------------ --Common Sense would dictate that pan bottoms be flat for even heating and not rough to avoid scratching induction cooktops. --CLEANS SPILLS AND BURN MARKS EASILY-A LOT OF USE + STILL HAVEN'T USE UP LITTLE BOTTLE OF CLEANER IT CAME WITH --Pan Test--Will my cookware Work with Induction cooktop? EASY TEST --IF A MAGNET STICKS TO BOTTOM IT WILL WORK ON ....INDUCTION COOKTOP AFTER 3 YEARS IT JUST TOOK SOME PATIENCE--NO ISSUES NO MAINTENANCE-LOVE MORE NOW THAN EVER

For the review I will write the timeline as it is important for people to realize. Summary: Purchased the Cooktop end of November 2016 has not been functioning from Day 1 (switches off in 2 mins) still not resolved by GE in around 2.5 months (gives you an idea of customer service quality) Timeline: Day 0 - Received the cooktop +4 days - Installed by contractor, tested for a couple of mins (big mistake should test at least for 30mins, also returns or defective products only within 48hrs) +1 day - On cooking realize that the cooktop switches off in 2 mins of cooking +1 day - Called GE Service +1 Week - GE Service engineer comes, orders new parts +1 Week - Engineer installs the replacement parts, we test for 20mins was looking good +1 Day - Saw the cooktop turns itself off around 25 mins, called GE service +2 Week - Engineer comes, orders new parts (this delay also includes the holidays around christmas, so not too bad) +1 Week - Engineer replaces parts, now the cooktop starts making noises and was not heating properly, engineer finally requests replacement +1 day - I have to call GE for replacement instead of them doing it, after a long delay finally get to them, they initiate the process. +5 day - Got a call to schedule +3 day - Installation of new cooktop, now the cooktop turns itself off in 2mins so the exact same problem as close to two months ago, the installer damages the old cooktop which was better as it runs for 20mins Same day - Called GE customer care, but they want the engineer again out, 10 days out (terrible customer experience even after two months no speedy resolution) + 10 days - Engineer comes and says it is the exact same issue, I told I do not want this replaced and I just want GE to take this stove back. + 2 days - Had to escalate and talk to manager who finally said a case will be open to initiate the return process and it will take up to 48hrs. + 5 days - No update so far and still struggling with GE. + 2 days - They said everything in order and need an invoice, which was submitted after talking to customer care from HomeDepot. + 1 day - GE customer care says everything in order, now the pickup company will call for scheduling pickup and to deliver cheque + 15 days - GE customer care says there is a problem with the invoice and they will pay lesser amount, when asked why they wait 2 weeks no answer, fought with the customer care and a supervisor and sent a new document from HomeDepot as they claim that the amount I paid is invalid. + 1 day - Called GE they confirmed everything in order to pay the amount I paid as part of the buy back. + 2 day - They say again that my invoice is not correct and they will pay lesser, lot of arguing and showing what was wrong with their assumptions and that they question the validity of the document I sent. Sent an invoice from PayPal. They say now it is all done, but who knows lets see. I have a kitchen full of GE appliances but seeing the service they have given I am clear that no further GE products. Some painful items: - No escalation procedure to try and resolve a long running case on priority - GE Engineer comes normally after a week to just plug in to read error codes, they should have given a better means of uploading - Any case will typically at least take 2 / 3 weeks for the additional delay of ordering parts - Both the support and their engineers seem clueless on what is happening here - The customer service is deplorable and very unreliable, no empathy. Been three months without a functioning cooktop.

We are RV'ing for a few months and purchased this to save on going to the laundromat 30 minutes away from our camp site. The unit is about 30 pounds and packs a powerful aggitation cycle and a mighty powerful spinner. We have a clothes line up to hang up our washed items after they spin. No, they're not completely dry but really just damp. If you have access to water, electricity and a place to hang your damp clothes, this will work for you. While it comes with 2 water inlets and a hose to fill, I have found it ****much much much**** easier for me, while RV'ing , to use a garden hose and lift the wash lid and fill it that way. You can also use a pitcher or bucket to fill it. The drain hose is in the grey water inlet at the property we are RV'ing at. You have to have this level as much as possible because it does vibrate at times when it starts to spin. Here is how I use it. Pour half a cap full of soap in, grab garden hose and fill it up to my desired level. Insert clothes ( thin, lightweight blankets , sheets or towels ) , and set wash cycle to "normal" and the timer to 15 minutes. After the wash, I drain the water and then refill with fresh water and liquid fabric softener and again set wash to normal and 15 minutes. After that is done, I set it to "Drain" and once again, use the garden hose to rinse as it is draining. Hanging clothes up on the line to finish drying, I personally, need to use liquid fabric softener. Your needs may vary. The spinner is very small so I can get 2 or 3 spin cycles out of 1 wash load. I put what will fit in the spinner , push gently on the clothes to extract more excess water and then put the "lid" on top of the clothes and then let it spin for 5 minutes . That is as long as the spin time goes....up to 5 minutes. The "lid" is a flexible disc that comes with the unit. The directions are not written very well at all. It takes a few to decipher what it is saying but it's actually easy to figure out. Your hardest part to figure out is where it will work best for you. Outside, in an unused ( or used ) shower stall , tub or in the kitchen by the sink ( or any other sink ). Yes, it takes a lot more work than a traditional washer unit but this really is a fantastic little unit. It's absolutely a blessing to people who live in small places, or who cannot afford a traditional washer/dryer unit , or who are camping / RV'ing. I actually bought mine on eBay for about 10 dollars less ( than the amazon price ) from the same exact seller ( onebigoutlet) and if you want a cheaper deal , go to eBay and search for the seller. Free shipping too. After I bought it on ebay , I found they had listed a couple more Buy it now 's for 100.$. Buy from eBay to save a few more bucks .. It's the same exact seller and the same exact model. This unit will pay for itself in less than a month from the savings of the laundromats and the driving there and the expensive washers. Do I really need to say that I absolutely LOVE this washer. :-)

Purchased this model in Nov. 2011 from another online retailer. Still going strong in my Arizona den which is kept air conditioned at about 80 degrees in summer. The main reason for purchasing this unit was because the width and depth perfectly fit an opening I had in my den. It was intended to be a beer fridge and provide extra freezer space to replace freezer space lost when we went from a top freezer kitchen fridge, to a bottom freezer unit during a kitchen remodel. I wanted a bottom freezer in this unit to make getting beers out of the fridge easier and since the freezer was for occasional use items only. There are two adjustable and one fixed glass shelf in the fridge section, one white plastic coated wire rack shelf (not adjustable, but removable) and a white plastic coated slide out wire basket in the freezer compartment. There are no front handles. There are built in (indented) handles at the top of each door. Interior dimensions (inches): Top shelf area of freezer (usable): 18Wx13Dx7H Bottom basket area of freezer (interior basket usable): 16.5Wx10Dx12.5H Two Crisper drawers in fridge (each drawer, usable space): 8.5Wx12Dx6.5H Rest of fridge divided by two removable, adjustable 2" increments: 18.5Wx14Dx22H Fridge door shelf (bottom gallon jug usable): 15.5Wx11Dx6.5D Two fixed door shelves above bottom door shelf (usable): Middle - 10Wx4Dx13H, Top - 9.5Wx3.75Dx4H Door soda can holder: fits six 12oz cans Exterior dimensions are as advertised in the Amazon Product Information section. The doors need about an extra 3/4" - 1" clearance to open to 90 degrees. Likes: + Perfect size for my application. + LED light in top section. + Glass shelves. + Frost free. + Style - Stainless look front that is magnetic with black trim and sides. + Relatively quite - Doesn't bother me too much, even in my den where it is often very quiet. Occasionally, the auto defrost cycle makes interesting gurgling noises. The compressor is audible but quiet when it runs and it does not bother me from my usual position about 9ft away. Things that don't bother me too much but could be improved (one star penalty): - Freezer compartment slide out metal basket is freestanding. So when you pull it out it just plops to the floor if you pull it too far. - No light in the freezer. - Temperature control (one each for freezer and fridge) is located in the top section. The fridge control is located in the back at the second shelf level. It is rotary and continuously adjustable. If you have this shelf full of cans of beer (like me) then it is a pain to get to it. The freezer control is a continuously variable slide switch located above the bottom shelf in the top section. Again, if this shelf is full of stuff, it makes it a pain to adjust it. Luckily, adjusting is generally a one time exercise. Overall, this refrigerator has been everything I needed. I see some reviews have issues with reliability and serviceability but my unit has had none of the issues described by other reviewers. If I needed to replace this unit, I would by another based on my experience with this one.

I did purchase this product locally, but wanted to share my experience. I had a surprisingly good long (for a front loader) life with my LG frontloader. It never had to be serviced. But, always leaked, guessing that was due to the fact the dryer was stacked on it as it ceased when the dryer was removed a few weeks prior to my new Speed Queen. My laundry was never clean. And the funky smell that was a constant battle. Some materials were more prone to the horrible odor and I ended up having no choice but to throw them out. I tried everything. Nothing worked on getting rid of the odor on the laundry...even drying outdoors. I always kept the front loader's door and detergent door open when not in use. I didn't let laundry sit in the machine for long periods of time. I drained it and cleaned out the filter regularly. I used HE detergent, stopped using fabric softner, made sure I was not using too much detergent. Ran weekly tub clean cycles-with bleach, with washing machine cleaning products, with various suggestions found on forums. Each load of laundry would typically run for 3 hours. Washer was not overly filled and not dealing with very dirty items, either. And then would discover some items or entire loads would need to be soaked in the laundry sink and re washed. The cloth napkins that were loaded when folded in quarters, would come out of the 3 hour wash folded in half...didn't even get unfolded with the wash cycle...that doesn't even make sense to me...this is not energy efficient. I did a lot of research, bough a Speed Queen and am so happy! I am not even a person who likes to do laundry and the first few weeks I was going out of my way to find items to wash. My clothes now look and smell clean! My laundry loads are now taking about 33 min and not hours. You get to adjust the soil level and water level...not the machine. The load timer on machine has been spot on-that was a nice surprise. I now am not needing to do weekly tub cleansing cycles. I have been able to get the funky smell out of my clothes ( using the same detergent I had been using). I can use fabric softner! I can use Oxyclean! I can soak laundry right in the washing machine! No problem washing a king sized quilt or wool blanket. The Speed Queen is an absolute joy to use! I have read a few comments about lint build up, noise, wet laundry and the alarm at the end of the cycle. I have not noticed any excessive lint on the laundry. But, I had gotten lackadaisical about not separating lint shedding items from lint collecting items from using my front loader. And when I didn't separate items in the Speed Queen, I did notice some lint-but that was my fault. There is a manual and after following their directions, no repeat issue. Noise level, it is louder compared to my other machine, it is not excessively loud in my opinion. I used the delay start to wash before the alarm went off in the morning and no one was disturbed by the maching running. But it actually cleans my laundry so I am not going to complain about it not being whisper quiet. I was expecting the laundry to come out damper from this top loading machine compared to my old front loader...but nope. The laundry is actually dryer from the Speed Queen. The alarm...it has adjustable volume levels. It is not going to play a tune, it is short and sweet. I just set a timer on my phone as I have found the time on the display to be accurate. This maching is solid. It is all business. It does what I need it to do-cleans laundry, and does a fantastic job. I only regret not purchasing it sooner.

This so called filter is the same garbage but with a different label. The ClearChoice brand label is the third water tube that I tried that are all the same tube just with a different label. It feels that these tubes are just a shell game. Anyway, the filter just came wrapped in a sealed plastic. Upon inspecting the label where all pertinent information should be, lo and behold, AGAIN, the label did not have any vital information. The filter itself has no information on what and how much minerals or particles or chemical or contaminants it filters out. The only filtering information it provides or more like a warning disclaimer is Do not use this filter with water that is known to be microbiologically unsafe or without a sufficient disinfection process before or after the water filtration process. So what is the purpose of this filter if it does not filter anything. Is it just so water can pass through the refrigerator to the water dispenser? I think that is the only purpose of this so called filter. It is misleading. They should call it a bypass adapter and not a filter. If you look at LG or any quality brand filters, they explicitly provide information on what their filter removes. Look it up at Amazon and you will see for yourself. Some remove more than others but to not provide any information and giving a warning means it does not remove anything. I do not live in a third world country. I live in the good old U.S. of A., in a big urban city but I still want to filter my water without using a whole house filtration system. And if they also mean by water filtration process in using a Brita system then this is truly a useless so call filter by ClearChoice. Even Brita Filters says it is NSF 42 /53 Certified and provides a list of contaminants and percentages it removes. The package or tube (I will not call this a filter) also does NOT say it is Made from NSF and FDA approved materials on the label but just on the Amazon description page it states it. If it is not on the label then they can not claim it or they can be sue / fined by the States and government for false claims (FTC rule and regulations). It means nothing anyway. They are using play on words to make it sound impressive. IT needs to state "NSF 42 AND 53 CERTIFIED ALONG WITH THE CONTAMINANTS IT REMOVES AND THE PERCENTAGE" and if it JUST states NSF 42 and53 CERTIFIED, it also really means nothing. It needs to ALSO list what it removes along with the percentage as some filters removes less contaminants and less percentages even through the filters are NSF 42 / 53 Certified filters. NSF 42 / 53 Certified filters are NOT All equal. READ THE LABEL. Be an informed consumer. Drink truly filtered water unless you do not careful about your health or your loved ones. But I think you do care since you are looking to buy a water filter. This is another rebranded, relabeled garbage that touts the "Made in USA" to tug on our blind patriotism. I am not going to try to install this tube as I would rather still use my presently installed one year old LG filter. If I could give this minus stars I would but I cant so I am giving it the lowest rating I can which is one star. If the company would like to reply to my review and provide important filtering information on this tube, I will revisit this review and re-rate it if necessary.

I purchased two different temperature and humidity sensors a little over a year ago. Ive already reviewed them both, and I like them both very much. One of them died recently, after lasting almost a year and a half. I have never in my life seen the weird type of battery it used, so since I had no idea what to search for and figured the battery, being so unique, might cost as much as the original thermometer (I believe I paid $5.00 for it) I decided to start shopping around for a new one. Its pretty critical I have a relatively accurate thermometer because I use it to determine the ambient temperature around all of my AV equipment for my home theater, which is installed in a separate small room off to the side of the theater, down in the basement. Unfortunately, this room doesnt get any exchange of air and unless the AC is running, it stays really hot. My old thermometer, until it died, spent most of its life saying it was 80 degrees. The good news is that the second thermometer I purchased, for the actual home theater (which takes regular AAA batteries) always agreed that the equipment room was 80 degrees, so I felt even if they weren't accurate, at least they were relatively accurate. When the battery died, I started looking for a replacement and I came across this one available at a discount in exchange for my honest review. It looked like it would fit the bill, so I ordered it. It takes regular batteries so it should last a lot longer than the previous one. The real test was to see if it also agreed on the temperature with the other two. Sure enough, its 80 degrees! I think the size and style of this thermometer is perfect and I may buy another one for the rest of the basement, outside of the home theater and equipment rooms. Its the exact size of a business card, in case you were wondering. Its 2 by 3.5 which is the standard size for all business cards, credit cards, etc. Its only 3/8 thick, too. There are three buttons, all on the right hand side. The first button (on the top) is to clear out the min/max readings. If you're putting the thermometer in another room and wish to reset the min/max readings, this would be the button you press. The second button scrolls between the min, max, and normal readings. Each time you press the button it will switch between displaying the min, max, and current temperature and humidity readings. The bottom button couldn't be simpler. Each time you press it, it switches the readout from F to C readings. This device takes a LR1130 button battery which you can find at any dollar store available in multi-packs for $1.00. It has a built-in kick stand which is pretty cool, but I wish it wasn't so flimsy. It works, though, which is good enough for me. Its not weatherproof, so its only for indoor use. Also, there is no backlight. It isn't wall mountable. They could have easily put a keyhole mount in the mold so it could be wall mounted, but they didnt. Additionally, there is no way to calibrate it, so it is what it is. Those are the only things keeping me from giving it 5 stars. I really like this new temperature/humidity sensor and while I cannot say for certain it is accurate, it does match my other two digital thermometers readings very well, so thats good enough for me.

Got this as an early Xmas present after YEARS of being without one because we live in an apartment. Needless to say that since both of us LOVE to cook- this meant a LOT of dishes kept piling up over and over and over again until finally, my mother-in-law took pity and just got this for us. Yeah, I was skeptical since it was so small but, the truth is that after living with it about a month? Yeah, it's a real dishwasher and, yes, it works. Set up is easy. It took us a little while to figure how everything went together even WITH the directions but, frankly, I blame the readers (us) and not the instruction manual. Putting it on and off of the faucet takes seconds- which is REALLY nice- particularly since, yeah, even though it can indeed hold a lot more dishes then it looks like it would at first, that still doesn't make it as large as a normal sized dishwasher. It cleans dishes well and, my careful scrutiny turned up quite a few details that will make basic maintenance easier than even a normal sized dishwasher in some cases. Since maintenance is usually the largest factor on the longevity of an appliance- this is good. It runs VERY quietly in comparison to all of the other dishwashers I've used. It DOES however, emit a beep when the wash cycle is done that can indeed be heard from the next room in if the apartment's quiet. Rather then consider this a negative though- I'm putting it in the plus column because, frankly, if it didn't- I think that we'd wind up missing that it was finished a LOT more then we already do because it's so darned quiet. Hell, half the time we don't even hear the beep as it stands- so, yeah, even that isn't horribly loud either. I also think it's nice because- yeah, it DOES take up the faucet during the wash cycle so, yes, sometimes we have had to hold off on something until that beep happens. Length of cycle isn't too bad considering that it IS a new dishwasher. For some reason, the energy and water saving redesigns mean that they all run a LOT longer then the older ones did/do. The light cycle seems to be pretty good so far for us though which runs at around 45 minutes. Which isn't too bad imho. So, all in all that's the pros... now to the cons.... The only complaint that I have- seriously, the one and only complaint is that the tines of the rack inside are so damned close together that they're frequently a bit awkward to maneuver the dishes in. Seriously, I am half tempted to dremel off half of them and redip it in protective coating- they are that close together. The only thing holding me back on that score however is the fact that I figure that since everything else seems so well-designed that there MUST be some reason for them being so closely spaced. In other words, all of those years without a dishwasher must be showing because there is no doubt in my mind that I am somehow using it wrong. There's really no reason why I should be having trouble fitting a plate into the darned thing. Along those lines is the similar complaint that the utensil basket seems to get in the way more often then not. Half the time I don't even bother to use it because the tall- like REALLY tall handle keeps getting in my way. I DO however, like the little mini secondary shelf on the one side and I still seriously LOVE this thing. It has been an absolute DREAM having this appliance around and I canNOT believe that I never thought to get one of these things for myself YEARS AGO. Anyway, that's my initial take after a month of living with it. I can heartily recommend that every apartment in the entire world get one of these.

As the weather starts to warm, my little annual checklist brings me to the dreaded cleaning of the dryer exhaust. In the past, this has meant trying to fit my aging, adipose body between the dryer and an adjoining cabinet, with cabinets above as well. The configuration previously required an excessively long hose, as the only way to make and keep the connection between the dryer and the exhaust vent was to do it with the dryer pulled out far enough to get between it and the cabinet. When pushing the dryer in, the hose, having a mind of its own, would twist, kink, or simply pop off at one end or the other (the hose clamps are never tight enough). Getting to it from the top is impossible, at least for me, as a wall cabinet above limits the space, and my arms aren't long enough to reach down the full height of the dryer anyway. It would always take several aggravating tries to get everything put back together, up against the wall tight enough to keep the wife happy, but not kinking or crushing the hose. And then the following year, the whole frustrating process had to be repeated. Pain in petudy, and I'd end up procrastinating and even skipping it some years, or mailing it in and just blowing air at the exhaust vent from outside and calling it good. I don't remember where I spotted this product, but I think it was a Reddit recommendation, and it looked like the answer. I just installed it today, and it was a snap. In my laundry room, there's base moulding, so I mounted a piece of scrap 1/2" plywood on the wall over the base to have a big, flush mounting surface for wherever the bracket ended up. My old metal hose was clean and still in good shape, so I shortened it--it now only needed to be about 16" long to get from the MagVent to the exhaust connection that comes through the wall, and it's pretty much straight, just a slight curve, but no bends. Then I put the other part of the MagVent on the dryer, checked my electrical connections for tightness since I had the thing out and unplugged, and pushed it back into place. I heard the snap of the two pieces mating, and a peek over the top of the dryer confirmed that it had worked exactly as advertised--the mating surfaces were aligned and snug. I'm thrilled. Now, my annual cleanings are just a straight pull of the dryer, a little blow with an air hose, and push the dryer back in. No more banging my head on the cabinets, trying to reach into spaces I can't, see things I can't, trusting that I didn't crush or kink the exhaust, or running to the home center to replace the hose I just wrecked. A lot of people grouse about the price. Compared the cost of just a chunk of dryer exhaust hose, yes, it is more expensive, but I don't think it's at all unreasonable or excessive. Just looking at how the thing is made, it's not just some cheap stamping, it's well-built and carefully assembled. If a few dollars is worth more than your time and your peace of mind, you do you. For me, this was the answer to what had become one of my most hated tasks. If like me, you put off this task (or even skip it some years/haven't done it in years) because it's such a pain, spend the money one time in your life on this product. I am not a paid reviewer. I received no compensation for this review. The only request I received from the company for a review was a flyer in the product box. I have not been contacted by any representative of the company prior.

So far, so good. UPS delivered this without any damage at all, and the freezer seemed packed well enough that it would take some pretty good lumps. The UPS guy in my area is great, and always treats packages with respect, but sometimes the guys at the warehouses/sorting centers can be a bit less gentle. I waited over 24 hours to plug it in, due to the unknown orientation during shipping, and, so far, it seems like it is cooling down properly. We will see in a few hours. So-- my takeaways: The freezer is surprisingly light--really easy to maneuverer by myself. The dimensions are spot on, which is great, because it fit though my 22-inch travel trailer door, without removing the thing. This thing is super quiet--no fan noise and just a mild hum from the compressor while it pumps refrigerant. Some grievances I have: I bought this for an off-grid travel trailer, to use as a fridge. I am running it off a 12 volt solar system, through a Power Bright 1100 watt (2200 surge) inverter. The first thing I found upon unpacking this freezer was the EnergyGuide label. Unlike the 172 kWh of energy usage pictured on the product listing, this uses 196 kWh a year, according to their tests. OK, that is just a bit more, but it is still far less than other similar models. Second, most of the time you figure 8-10 times the startup draw than the running draw for inverter usage. On the back of the machine, the amperage while running is listed as 1.1 amps, at 115 volts. It also lists the startup current--- 18 AMPS! Or 2070 watts. I have been waiting anxious to see how my new inverter will handle this, since I figured the startup watts would be at most 1200 or so. Surprisingly, the small Power Bright inverter handles it fine. There is an initial surge-- according to the inverter's built-in watt meter-- of just over 900 watts, then it drops down to about 114 watts while the compressor is running. The fan on the inverter does not even come on unless it is hot out! Now I just have to wait for my extra panels and batteries to run this constantly, and I will be set. I plan to use a 12 volt temperature relay to replace the on/off switch of the inverter, which will turn the inverter and freezer on only when the temperature rises above 38 degrees. This will minimize the noise of the inverter/freezer at night while I am sleeping, while eliminating the extra power draw from the inverter when it is not actively being used. I will update this review as I go along to note any changes/problems. UPDATE: I upgraded to a pure sine inverter to run the freezer. My Power Bright 1100 watt modified sine inverter starts and runs the freezer fine, but this freezer seems to be especially sensitive to power quality. I was struggling to get the freezer down below 40 degrees, even after running it all day. I noticed the compressor kicked on and off often, so I deduced that it was probably triggering the overheat protection on the compressor. With modified sine waves, the harsh changes between peaks can cause compressors to overheat easier. With the pure sine inverter, the compressor stays running longer, and it takes only a few hours to drop the freezer below freezing. So If you are having problems running this on solar, consider upgrading to a pure sine inverter. I went with a 2000 watt model from Power TechOn, and it seems to work really well.

I've had this hood fan installed for about a month now. It looks awesome. I love the clean look that hinged filter cover provides. It sucks air really well, and it's super quiet, even at the highest fan speed. I'm sure one of the reasons it's so quiet, is that I have a very short duct run (about 2 total feet with one 90, and a duct cap with a baffle). I also used duct seal&nbsp;<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/Gardner-Bender-DS-110N-Duct-Seal-1-Pound-Pug/dp/B00689V41G/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">Gardner Bender DS-110N Duct Seal, 1-Pound Pug</a>&nbsp;where each piece of ducting joins another. I believe this helps to dampen vibration and noise, as well as sealing the duct. I did install 2 additional screws with fender washers through the back plate of the hood. I didn't feel comfortable hanging the whole hood on 2 toggler sheetrock anchors&nbsp;<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/Mechanical-Plastics-50400-Toggler-Snaptoggle-2-Pack-1-4-x-20-Inch-Brass-Wall-Anchors/dp/B00GVK5M10/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">Mechanical Plastics 50400 Toggler Snaptoggle 2-Pack 1/4 x 20-Inch Brass Wall Anchors</a>(even though I reinforced the sheetrock by installing a wood board behind it, via the wall opening for the ducting). The controls are simple. I found the installation instructions simple, and easy to follow, but I didn't really need them. You press power then the plus button to turn the fan on. It seems you have to press the power button twice to turn the fan off. To program the clock, you need to hold down the power button, until the time flashes. Then the + and - buttons adjust the time. This wasn't in my instructions. Tips: I needed to extend my duct by 2" to reach my vent cap on the outside wall. I don't have the crimp tool to make one end smaller so it fits into the next piece. I went to a local Heating and Air Conditioning contractor, and they fabbed it for me in 5 mins for free! It's so easy and cheap, I don't think it's worth the paperwork for them write a work order. Cons: 1) The exhaust outlet on the hood is about 3/16" too large to fit into a 6" duct. I attached a pic of my 6" elbow butted to it, so you can see what I mean. I used 6 wraps of high adhesion foil backed tape to seal and adhere that intersection. Considering both the duct and hood fan are independently supported, I think this is a lasting solution. 2) The lights aren't very bright. If I had to guess, I'd say each light puts out maybe 75-150 lumens (150-300 lumens total output).

I am very happy I purchased this. I have an ice maker on my fridge but it needs a sensor or something and I don't want to go through having to have someone come out to fix it. It made more ice than I used anyway. Thought I would just buy bags of ice until I saw this. Set it up and it started working. I bought distilled water to use in it to avoid "clogging" problems with my city water. Usually just make enough ice to fill one or two freezer gallon bags and wait until it says "add water" then I shut it down until the next time I want to make some ice. The instructions said something about letting it run until something got cold before adding water. I tried to do that the first time but now I plug it in, turn it on, and add the water. The first batch or two are sort of flimsy but they melt and go back into the reservoir so no big deal. I have mine set on M for the cubes and that works for me. PLEASE keep in mind that the reservoir and the ice holding area are not refrigerated so its not wise to just let the cubes sit there for too long. The "cubes" are really cute and I keep thinking that I should get creative and put something in the center or find a way to set them up for teeny tiny shooters - with chilled liquor of course. Maybe with a stuffed olive for a martini on the rocks - hmm? If it already hasn't been apparent, I live alone so this make enough for me. I know that when the kids come I will need more ice so I can either make more or just send them out to get a bag or two. No problem! The machine needs to be able to have air circulation (I think I read that) so when I'm using it I pull it forward on my counter and when I'm done I push it back. Doesn't take up much space and I guess I could put it in a cupboard but that would mean I would have to lift it and did I mention that it's a bit heavy. Well, it is heavy and this 60+ year old woman is not into heavy. I got it onto the counter and I'm happy with it there. I just went over and sort of lifted it and reaffirmed to myself that it is heavy. And I just remembered that was a bit of a problem in trying to get it out of the box. It came in a sturdy cardboard box and inside that was the product box. Inside the product box was the machine and two pieces of Styrofoam on either side of the machine. Printed on the outside box were two arrows pointing up so I gathered it should not go on its side - coolant or something - I don't know and didn't want to screw up. We have all dealt with trying to get a product box out of the cardboard box that fits it like a second skin. What are those people thinking? Usually I put it on its side and try to slide it out or turn it upside down and shake it loose. Neither option felt right on this one so I left it in both boxes. Next came getting it out with the close fitting Styrofoam packing. Keep in mind that there were one or two unfavorable reviews and I knew if I needed to return it that I would also need the packing so I did not do any cutting or tearing on the packing. I put the entire package on a stool by the counter, got my hands inside the package and was able to lift out the machine and packing and transfer to the counter. Styrofoam back in the boxes, closed them up and put them in the basement - just in case.

When I brought this cooler home I was initially unable to attach the handle to the door because of a manufacturing defect. Tramontina was helpful in resolving this issue and shipped me new parts and a new handle. Unfortunately, even with a new handle, this cooler is virtually useless. Upon loading the cooler with cans I was amazed at how poorly thought out the shelving was, almost certainly designed by someone who has never laid eyes on a beverage can, the electronics bar across the top requires you to tilt the top cans to get them into and out of the top shelf. The next shelf down is a fraction of an inch too high for cans so you need to lower it several inches to accommodate the next row of cans, and one of the shelves that claims to hold 24 cans really only holds 18 unless you precariously tilt the back row of cans at an angle across the gap between the back of the shelf and the back wall of the cooler. The capacity is a borderline lie and the design is aggravatingly stupid. Don't even think of storing bottles in here. Visible on the door as soon as you take this out of the box is a sticker that notes the temperature will fluctuate based on a number of factors to include the contents of the cooler and how often the door is opened. This is to be expected, what I didn't expect was the degree of fluctuation I would eventually find (TL/DR +/- 15~ degrees). The optimal temperature for most beverages is approximately 37 degrees and water freezes around 32 degrees. Armed with this knowledge I set the temperature of the cooler to 42 degrees. My setting was already five degrees above my optimal temperature (to account for the expected fluctuation) and, in theory, 10 degrees above the freezing point of anything that I would be storing in this cooler. (I expected the the cooler to struggle to stay that cold, but I did not expect the cooler to drop much below that setting.) The first day, set to 42 degrees, I loaded the cooler to capacity (120 cans), and I waited. 24 hours later the cooler had made it into the high forties but had not yet achieved my goal of 42 degrees. I feared the worst but decided to give the cooler another night to get settled. In the morning I awoke to find that one of my diet coke cans had exploded, not merely frozen, but literally exploded. To make matters worse, it was not a can on the bottom where Tramontina had warned me it would be cooler, nor was it near the much warmer top shelf, nor the back near the cooling elements. Somehow a can dead in the center of the middle shelf had ruptured and there was black sticky stuff everywhere. I emptied, cleaned, and restocked my remaining 119 cans. This time I set the temperature to 44 degrees and added a thermometer to the top and bottom shelves. I can now confidently tell you that when set to 44 degrees the top shelf maintains a comfortable 56-58 and the bottom settles around 45-47. The middle, however, somehow managed to freeze another can of coke. This means that when set to 44 degrees the middle of the middle shelf is somehow finding it's way to below freezing for a can of soda. I've now cleaned, emptied, and restocked this refrigerator from top to bottom twice and come to terms with keeping my drinks at a warm fifty degrees for safety and convenience purposes. I don't see any way that a temperature fluctuation of nearly fifteen degrees below the current setting would be acceptable to anyone. The only reason this cooler remains is due to the inconvenience of returning it (which will likely happen soon anyways).

So we bought this from Sam's club, and followed all the directions. It's not fun to take things back so when it said let it stand for 6 hours before plugging in, I made sure and did it so the compressor's oil can fully settle. Note: the newer models all have the temp mod, so they will cool down to 32 degrees instead of just 40. Not sure why they ever made the first one limited to 40... but perhaps the following will tell the tale. We plugged it in, and after a few hours stocked it full. It literally took 2 days to come to equilibrium at 35 degrees. I was so glad when I heard it shut off for the first time I actually did a fist pump. Then... 25 seconds later, it turned on again (without anyone opening the door). Hmmmmm??? This pattern repeats throughout the entire story so even though I won't mention it again, you can rest assured I'm listening to it run right now... with brief 20-30 second pauses where you can actually hear yourself think. Ps. I'm sitting 21 feet away and we have hard wood floors so perhaps others with bigger houses and carpet might not be so disenchanted by this. On the other hand, my main fridge is on 18 feet away and doesn't bother me at all. We stared at it for awhile and thought, "gee" it sure is nice looking and all, but my goodness it is without question the loudest "white" noise in our kitchen. And btw, the noise is not all that white in the sense that I always know where the noise is coming from. Our $2500 LG has a linear compressor and frankly is about half as loud as this thing, and does 3 times the work, given it has more space and a full freezer, ice tray, etc. Of course this bad boy was only 179 or whatever we paid.. so I guess you get what you pay for. And trust me, we are paying for the savings... every second. Even now I'm thinking of various song rhythms that could go with the compressor noise. Yes, it's that loud. Ok, so 4 days in and KABOOM! One of the water bottles (glass pierre) in the back breaks. We turn it from 34 to 36. (Keep in mind we turn it down past what we want because it takes sooooo darn long for it to get there). Anyway, that plan was not good because 2 days after that, 3 of my protein shakes at the bottom are frozen solid (and no, none of the above was touching the element in the back, or any side/rear wall for that matter). So we turned it up to 37... Now I'm thinking "crap, my beer's not going to be cold enough at 37, but I don't want my protein shakes frozen either." Next day I hear "caTHUNK"... I see a red bull has suddenly bulged out at the bottom and tipped over due to being frozen. It was on the top shelf, middle of the glass rack. Hmmmmmm??? So far it appears that this thing is way to finicky for me. Your mileage may vary. Too long, too warm, too cold, too loud for me. Then again, I'm not sure I want to drop 600 bucks for an equivalent nicer one.

I not happy having to rate this product as 1-star because Amazon's 1-star rating is defined as "I hate it." Hate seems a rather strong and emotional reaction to an apparently defective (?) water filter, even if it fails to work as advertised and even though the filter may have caused damage to our home. And, why does Amazon not allow a "zero stars" rating? Our 2005 Kenmore (Coldspot) refrigerator (model 106.7426402) has a top-freezer with an ice-maker that calls for a water filter cartridge (part number 9915, also referred to as Water Filter model WF-LC200V) replacement every six months. On October 10 (2017), put off by the seemingly high cost of "original equipment manufacturer" (OEM) replacement water filters and deciding to save some money, I ordered the "IcePure Refrigerator Water Filter Replacement (2 PACK ) Compatible with WHIRLPOOL 4396701, 4396702, W10281560, W10312235, KENMORE 469915, FILTER 6, L120V, L200, SGF-W10 and more." Two filters arrived October 13, and for half the price of one OEM (Kenmore) filter. Except for the labeling, the IcePure filters looked identical to the original Kenmore (OEM) filter. I turned off the water supply line, and with a quarter-turn, I removed the old filter. A quarter-turn installed the replacement cartridge, and I turned on the water again. Easy as pie... until later. Our refrigerator apparently began leaking water onto the floor soon after I installed the new IcePure replacement refrigerator water filter (RWF2000A replacement for Whirlpool / Kenmore 4396701 - 469915). Fortunately, our kitchen flooring is vinyl plank, and it resists water-damage very well. Unfortunately, the leak remained out-of-sight, staying under the refrigerator while it slowly spread to the wall behind our refrigerator. Once it reached the wall's baseboard, the puddle ran under the baseboard and under the (gypsum board) drywall. Some water was absorbed by the drywall and by two-by-four wood wall-framing. This (damp wood and drywall) may eventually encourage mold, a hazardous condition that could be very expensive (thousands of dollars) to remedy. As our leak occurred well under the refrigerator, it was not detected until after it found a route through our concrete-floor, and dripped down to the carport below, creating an extensive (and more easily seen) puddle there. My recommendations to others changing their water filters: First, do NOT discard your old filter right away (you may need to reinstall it). Second, if possible, make sure your refrigerator is over a non-absorbing surface. If, like most refrigerators, it is installed against a wall, pull your refrigerator out and away from the wall. Make sure it is also away from any cabinets and away from anything that might be damaged by water on the floor. After you replace your filter, and turn its water supply back on, keep a close watch for leaks or dripping. You might slide a sheet of newspaper, paperboard or similar thin absorbent material under your refrigerator, then pull it out periodically to check for signs of a leak. And, finally, I just ordered an OEM (Kenmore) water filter replacement cartridge.

I purchased this machine at a local retailer, but I did look at Amazon for reviews. So I want to share my opinion with others doing their research. I needed to replace my front loading washer. This is the second front loader that I've had to replace in the past 10 years. The first was a Frigidaire which was purchased because I needed a stackable unit and it was the only one that fit my budget and was not teeny tiny. I never liked the Frigidaire. It was replaced with a Whirlpool Duet. I liked the Whirlpool and felt it did a much better job than the Frigidaire, but when it also kicked the bucket after several years, I decided not to go with a front loader again. They are way to expensive to replace every 5 years. I was hesitant to go from a high efficiency washer back to an old style washer with an agitator. I like the idea of saving electricity, water, detergent, but the cost of replacing front loader every several years is not environmentally friendly either, and it is certainly not good for my budget! I looked at high efficiency top loaders, but was unimpressed with reviews. The 25 year life expectancy of the Speed Queen convinced me to give it a try. I was concerned about the size of the Speed Queen, since it is so much smaller than my front loaders. I do laundry for 7, so I have lots to do! The Speed Queen takes about 30 minutes to wash a regular load and a little longer for heavy duty loads. This is about half the time for my front loader. I can wash and dry two loads of laundry with the Speed Queen and my old Whirlpool dryer in about the same amount of time as one load it my front loader. Two Speed Queen loads are more than one front loader load, so the size hasn't been an issue. The Speed Queen will not wash a king size comforter, but I did wash a Queen comforter. It was a quite full, but it fit. The Speed Queen only has three cycles; Heavy Duty, Normal, and Delicate. I wasn't happy to give up all the different options my front loader had, but honestly I probably used one of these three options 95% of the time anyway. I've had this washer for 7 months and I've not wanted a different cycle. I feel that my clothes get cleaner in the Speed queen than they did in the front loader. I think it is because the Speed Queen fills up with water, so the clothes actually get to soak in the water. I also like that I can fill up the washers with water and pause the wash cycle so that the clothes can soak. My only complaint is that the washer lid must be closed for the washer to fill with water. I like to add clothes while the washer is filling, so I googled it and found an easy way to modify the washer so that it will fill/run with the lid up. Just be careful if you also do this. After 7 months of use, I can say that I really like this washer. It gets our clothes clean quickly. It doesn't have all the bells and whistles of the high efficiency machines, but it does what I need it to do: clean my clothes. The real test will be to see how long this machine lasts. I will update if it needs repairs or replaced.

My traditional agitator washer (GE) died after only 3 years of use in my family of 5. I attempted to repair it but I discovered 1 poor quality design feature such that I decided to sell it for scrap instead. I approached my purchase research with a very open mind.. looking at all features, quality ratings and design types available. I spent a better part of a week researching the HE front load, Top load Agitator, and HE Top load only to discover the huge number bad reviews of which summarize in a list below. Top load HE: Twists your clothes in balls, Does not wash towels well, Clothes come out not even wet. Locks the lid. Must use HE detergent. Circuit board failures. High repair rates. 1 year warranty on most brands. Front load HE: Door Rubber seal issues. Must run cleaning tablets monthly or weekly. Quality issues because of the side load design. Must leave door open or risk mildew. Circuit board failures. Must use HE detergent. High repair rates. Long cycle times. 1 year warranty on most brands. Top load Agitator: Quality issues with many models. Auto-temp and water level sensors that don't really work well. The two common bigbox models from Whirlpool and GE are more cheaply made because these models are considered "old-style" and ugly. 1 year warranty on most brands. I just wanted a simple high quality, long-lasting washer that offered the basic features and cleaned my clothes. I know how much water, what temperature and what type of agitation should be used. It does not need to be in an areo-dynamic shell, or need to play songs. It does not need an IPOD interface or a clock. What I found was a product made by a US company manufactured in the US. I recognized then name from when I was in college and using coin-op Laundromats: SpeedQueen. I am not in any way affiliated with this company. I just wanted to be happy with my investment. I was actually excited when I purchased this unit ( Speedqueen 432) after reading the many positive reviews. When I got mine hooked up, I ran it for 7 loads straight to get caught up on the piles of dirty laundry. It ran quiet, no out-of-balance loads, and the clothes came out clean. PROS: No electronics/computer, no Auto water level or temperature sensors, No lid lock, Commercial parts. 30 minute cycle. Soak feature. 3 year top to bottom warranty. Stainless steel tub. No need for HE detergent. Extra rinse cycle. CONS: You have to add water softener by hand if you use the extra rinse cycle. Cannot wash big bulky items like comforters. Not compact or stackable. You can buy it on Amazon. I bought mine from a local Appliance Store. SpeedQueen does not sell to the Big Box Stores. It is a commercial washer with a 3 yr warranty. 5 yr on motor and 10 yr on transmission. My best suggestion is to carefully research the unit you buy. I do see a need for alternate designs where physical space or water conversation is a real issue. For me neither was a problem. Government regulations have messed up what used to be a simple task..... to buy a washer that gets clothes clean and works without board failures. I also feel most manufacturers are focusing more on flash and features than quality and functionality. Buying a washer should not 5 year purchase cycle.

<div id="video-block-R9D5GB8ZX2XII" class="a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block"></div><input type="hidden" name="" value="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/D1EAVFhfqgS.mp4" class="video-url"><input type="hidden" name="" value="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61qdHTZ3hoS.png" class="video-slate-img-url">&nbsp;WOW, I am really loving this Simple Living Portable Clothes Dryer! It was really easy to put together and is surprisingly lightweight! I put it together by myself in under 30 minutes and with no tools whatsoever! (And I was taking photos for this review almost half of that time!) I just wanted to give a heads up that the instruction manual says that you need certain small twist connector pieces; but the design was upgraded to include an optional shelf so you just use two more of the plastic bracer pieces to connect the rods at the halfway point. It's much sturdier with the bracers anyway! I am really amazed with several things about this dryer. First, it really does hold a good deal of clothes! For my photos and video I used already dry clothes just to show the amount it will hold. Really impressive. Second, I didn't realize before purchasing this that the dryer actually vents into the wardrobe with a custom fit... like a glove! This causes the zippered outer wardrobe shell to billow and hold in the heat while it dries your clothes! I really didn't expect it to fit so well. And then the air holes at the top make sure nothing overheats. It's really a great design! The third thing I love is that it is SOOO QUIET! I expected it to be at least half as loud as my air conditioner... NO! It's just a very quiet hum. I actually think this will be very very soothing to have in the bedroom, especially in the winter! Think about it, quiet humming, warm and toasty and the smell of fresh laundry. I'm sleepy already, haha! I will be updating this review with my results as I use it more with fuller loads. I am really pleased with this dryer so far and am excited to report my findings with continued use! I am uploading a LOT of photos that I took while putting this together. I am also uploading a video of it before and after being turned on to show how quiet the motor is and to show the billowing action. I plan on updating the video soon. I was working by myself and using my new phone and didn't realize the aspect ratio situation until it was too late. So bear with me and I'll update that as soon as possible. But I still wanted to post it so people could see how it works. I purchased this portable clothes dryer at a discounted price in order to test it out and provide my honest and unbiased review. I am not paid by nor am I affiliated with the manufacturer or seller in any way. I am really impressed with this product and will update my results with further use. I have only used this to dry one hand-washed shirt so far which worked SOO well. My plan is to get a portable washer that spins dry and then use this to finish the drying and never have to go to the laundromat again except for comforters.

Been using the humiditrak for a few weeks now. I attached the sensor INSIDE the actual guitar to the side using a Command Picture Hanging strip which is similar to velcro. In this way, I know the exact conditions of the guitar in and out of the case. Also bear in mind that the humidity levels are different in various parts of any given guitar case and may not reflect the actual humidity inside the guitar itself, which is where it matters most. What I like: -Keeps record even when out of range and updates when you get reconnected. So far this is the only solution that allows you to keep record hour by hour. Other in case hygrometers will only tell you the current conditions when you open and see it. This has allowed me to make several observations such as how effectively my in case humidifier works, how quickly the humidity inside the guitar drops when I take it out for practice, if my guitar changes temperature when I walk outside to my car on a cold winter day, what the conditions were while the guitar was checked in a plane, etc. These things you simply can't do with other hygrometers. -Having the hygrometer inside has allowed me to make observations of what humidity and temperature my guitar sounds at its best and worst. -I'm able to track the humidity/temperature while out of the house by connecting another device. I have a Nexus 7 Android tablet as well as my Android phone (Oneplus 3T) connected to the humiditrak. Interestingly I didn't have to pair the sensor with the second device, yet they both have the ability to connect directly to the sensor via Bluetooth. When I am out of the house, the Nexus 7 tracks the humidity and uploads the data to the cloud via wifi. As long as my phone has wifi, I also see the updates on my phone wherever I am. What needs improvement: -The sensor seems to only gather data in EXACT 30 minute intervals. In between those 30 minutes, I cannot force an update or reading it seems. I understand that the 30 minute interval is probably to save battery, but I wish I could force an update through the app if desired... a lot of conditions can change within a 30 minute period. -I wish the app could allow you to calibrate the humidity reading then restore to default if desired. I compared the humiditrak with 2 other digital hygrometers and the humiditrak read 5-7% higher than the other two. I suspect the humiditrak is pretty accurate since I put two humidipaks inside my guitar when I went on vacation for a week and the reading stayed at a solid 50-51% the entire time. Still, I think there should be a calibration feature and should be easy to implement in the app. -Since I started using the humiditrak with a second device, one device or the other or both randomly loses Bluetooth connection inexplicably and will not reconnect. Sometimes it connects instantly, sometimes it doesn't even after several hours even though I am only a few feet away. This lack of reliability is concerning. -I'd like the ability to export data from the app to a tablet or computer for future reference. If my complaints are addressed, I'd easily give this device a 5 out of 5. I believe the whole concept of the humiditrak is by far the best idea in instrument care. --- Update March 30, 2017 - I've discovered that if my device isn't connecting to the sensor, I just need to turn the Bluetooth OFF then ON on my device and they suddenly discover each other.

We got our Della yesterday and I have already done 2 weeks worth of laundry (We were avoiding the laundromat as we knew this was coming). We purchased this washer because we live on a third floor walk up and wanted to save money and energy on the laundromat and also not haul a full size washer and dryer up three floors! I have to say I have been impressed so far! It holds more laundry than I anticipated (about 1/3 a normal size load) though I have been careful not to overload it and stress the machine. The agitator is powerful and removes way more dirt than our community laundry machines (makes me feel a little gross about what we've been wearing)! I did about 13-14 loads of laundry yesterday, so I feel like I've got a pretty good feel for what this little machine can do. The set up was super easy once I figured out where to put it. The inlet hose for our bathroom sink perfectly, though I have read other users had issues with the fit. I simply ran the drain hose into our toilet (after a good bleach down, of course). I chose to use the spin/rinse features together rather than rinsing in the agitator side. This worked perfectly! I set the spin timer for 3 minutes and ran the water into that side for about two them turned it off and let the rest spin out for about a minute. The clothes came out super clean and about 75% dry. I don't have many complaints about this washer, but here are a few things to mention... If you are doing several loads in a row (like more than about 3) you will need to give the pump time to cool off a little because it struggles a little bit when it gets too warm. I did notice that occasionally on the spin cycle I had to encourage the pump to get started by shaking the drain hose a little to help the water start to flow, but then it would get started and drain no problem. One that note. You do not need to manually turn on the "drain" option during the spin cycle it turns on automatically for that side only! You do still need to manually turn the drain option on to remove water from the agitator side. I found that using 1/4-1/2 a capful of our regular liquid detergent was plenty but not too much and everything rinsed very clean! Because we drained the water into the toilet I could easily see when the water was running clean and the rinse was sufficient. It is much more labor intensive than using a traditional washer and dryer, but, in my opinion, well worth the cost and effort involved with schlepping all of our laundry to the laundromat and waiting around for hours to finish everything. I'm so grateful to be able to do laundry in our own home while getting other stuff done! Certainly a relief! I really do feel that our clothes are cleaner than they ever have been (even considering when we previously had a traditional washer and dryer)! The spinner works wonderfully and our clothes dried within a couple of hours. This machine is very light (about 30 lbs) and has handles. I am 9 months pregnant and was able to easily move it from one room to another even though it has no wheels (maybe a useful feature in the future). I washed everything from towels to sweatpants and a sheet set without any problems. You have to split the loads into half or a third for the spin side, though. I found our clothes were super clean never running the agitator side longer than 6 minutes and never running the spin side longer than 3 minutes (with rinse water flowing into it for 2 of the 3 minutes). A great buy and it literally pays for itself in a few months. Well worth the investment to be able to do your laundry without leaving your house.

Update 9 months and running smooth. Best thing under a hundred bucks on Amazon! Update: Going into month five and still working like a charm! The key to keeping this little machine up and running is weight. It is the weight, not number, of the items you are putting into the machine. The washer can handle up to 11lbs and the spinner 6.6lbs.... guessing as to how many of this or that will end up in a broken machine. Think of it like an elevator, an elevator doesn't say you can have 6 people, 2 dogs, and 3 bags of groceries. An elevator states the max weight it can handle without breaking because people, dogs, and bags of groceries do not come in one size. I have been able to Google the weight of every piece of clothing I own and make educated decisions about how much to load. Also, keep in mind that the spinner does about half of the max capacity of the washer. If you put a 10lb item in the washer you are not going to be able to use the spinner. Things are going to weigh a lot more when wet, consider that before using the spinner. I wash, drain the tub, spin, fill and rinse, then spin again. This machine is awesome for soaking really tough stains, then just turn on the agitator and finish washing! Could never do that at the laundromat. Be sure to balance the load in the spinner, full-size machines are strong enough to correct the balance but this little machine is not. You cannot just cram clothes in the spinner. I circle the items around the tub, keeping the weight as even as possible. I am able to use this machine for 80% of my laundry. I still go to the laundry every two weeks to wash blankets, robes, sweats, sweaters...you get the idea. I purchased a 15' three prong extension cord, a bath mat, two drying racks, a couple of the clip and dry racks for socks, and I installed a handheld showerhead. I set my machine in my bathtub to operate, not elevated, and it works like a charm. Just make sure the hose is lying flat. The machine is super lite, I have no problem moving it around. The bath mat keeps it from scooting around (it is really powerful) and muffles the sound. The handheld showerhead (removed the water restrictor) fills up the wash tub in under 3 minutes, rinses bubbles left in the washer and has cut my shower time in half. I also moved the drain hose from the left side to the right as my tub drains to the right. Just be careful because the hose is shoddy. Lay your machine on the side and move the hose from left to right. YOU CAN JUST SIT THE MACHINE IN THE TUB, NO ELEVATION NEEDED. I strongly recommend Persil detergent. Seriously. I was a Tide user for 30 years until I tried Persil. It cleans and rinses MUCH better than Tide. Persil is a European product and suited for these little machines. 2tbs is the amount of detergent and/or fabric softener to use ( I use a coffee measuring spoon as it is 2tbs.). I really recommend measuring the detergent and softener. You will save product and still get clean clothes. If you want to completely stop visiting the laundromat buy a bigger machine. I believe that 75% of the bad reviews are due to overloading the machine. I probably wash 10 loads a week, I am expecting it to last a couple of years.

<div id="video-block-R880D9TLHUJ5X" class="a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block"></div><input type="hidden" name="" value="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/D1NQ8KT9PRS.mp4" class="video-url"><input type="hidden" name="" value="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61LTgLDkaSS.png" class="video-slate-img-url">&nbsp;This has to be one of the best purchases I have ever made. We moved from a big house to a 1000 square foot 2 bedroom apartment that has a shared laundry room with everyone on our floor. When we moved I had to sell my washer and dryer because there was no room for it in storage. The building I live in is pet friendly so when I use the washer/dryer I can only assume at some point my neighbors are cleaning their pet bedding in the same machines I wash my clothes... well no more. This machine is amazing, but there are some trade offs. Here are my pluses and trade offs. PLUSES + It works - just look at the video and you will see how dirty the wash water is (can you say mortified) + It is a truly compact unit - no matter how small your apartment is, this will fit in it + It is an economical purchase - I bought this for $106. We have lived in the apartment for a month and have already spent over $100 in the laundry room with washer and dryer each being $1.50 a pop. TRADE OFFS = Finding the best way to fill it up and drain it - see my video to see what I did out-of-the-box. = Small loads - I did a week's worth of work clothes. It took 2 loads to wash and 4 loads to spin. = Clothes not completely dry - like others have said, the clothes will be about 90% dry - I just hung the clothes up outside on the balcony and in the bathroom. Within a few hours they were dry. = Laundry needs more of my attention - after the wash cycle I have to drain it then fill it back up with water to rinse before moving the clothes to the spin - for the convenience and cost savings - WHO CARES!! Something I want to add after doing the video and my first full load - although the unit doesn't move during the wash/rinse cycles, it does vibrate during the spin cycle. At the very end of the spin cycle when it turns off, I do have to make sure it doesn't shake itself off of the counter - not a big deal because I only need to set the spin cycle for 2 minutes (even for my jeans). One other thing I want to add since doing the video, I found if I move the unit closer to the edge of my sink, I can pull the faucet hose all the way out and it reaches the washer, so now I don't have to use a bucket to fill it up - super excited about that! Like everyone else said, if the water inlet was more conducive for American style faucets this would be perfect. As I mentioned earlier I had to sell my washer and dryer and even if I got an apartment stackable, those do not work in every apartment. This unit will work anywhere you have a tub/shower or sink with a mid-size countertop. This means you can take it anywhere and use it. I am totally stoked about this purchase.

You too can fix the broken ice dispenser lever on your Samsung RF4287HARS! I did and am happy with the new part. I just wished it wasn't so expensive. Run these checks. Does the ice maker still make ice, i.e. you can remove ice from the inside ice bucket and it refills in a few hours? Does the dispenser give you water when you push on the ice paddle? You have a broken piece of plastic in your dispenser mechanism. See my first photo showing the bottom, back of a removed ice dispenser. The plastic arm should be over the black switch on the left. On the right, you can see the still functioning water dispenser arm. Once you get the new part, here's how you replace it. It took me almost 2 hours with cleaning and taking these photos! Hopefully yours will go faster with the instructions below. You will need a phillips screw driver and a metal scrapper. 1. Turn off the water supply to the refrigerator to avoid a mess. 2. The dispenser mechanism is attached to the bottom of the display. Remove the entire front display, see photos. The display is held in place by five plastic tabs, two on the right & left, one in the middle on top. Look closely and you can see them in the photo. One photo shows the right side of the front where the tabs fit into the refrigerator. Avoid scratching the front of your refrigerator by not pry at the front edge. Instead, use a stiff metal scrapper, and slide it up the back of the dispenser area. Try one side and get it to release and then the other side and finally the top should come loose. The broken plastic arm might fall out as you are doing this. 3. Disconnect the wire bundle holding the panel to the refrigerator. It's visible in the upper corner of my photo. 4. Remove the other two wire bundles between the panel and the dispenser. 5. Using the screw driver, remove the screw on the bottom of the panel next to the dispenser paddle. 6. Now remove the dispenser. Others reported that theirs just slid out. Mine took me 45 minutes to get loose. :^( If you look at the last two photos, you can see two plastic tabs on the sides of the dispenser that hold it in the two depressions on the bottom of the metal part. I had to use two scrappers and tap on the metal with a hammer to get mine to slowly separate. 7. I recommend cleaning the metal and then put a thin layer of oil on the metal. Be sure to attach the metal back to the panel BEFORE inserting the dispenser onto it. 8. Tuck the wire bundle along the side of the dispenser below the clear plastic tab and then slide the plastic onto the metal part. 9. Clean out the whole dispenser area on the front of the refrigerator. You won't have this easy of access again. 10. Screw the screw back in. 11. For added safety, you could power down the refrigerator for this step. I didn't. Reconnect the brown and black 4-wire bundle to the bottom of the panel. Reconnect the yellow thru black 5-wire bundle to the top of the panel. Connect the main wire bundle to the refrigerator. 12. Snap the panel back into place and turn back on the water. Note, if your display is flashing something like "S" and "E" then the panel needs to be reset. You can do this by pressing the upper left & right of the display for several seconds where the "Energy Saver" and "Lighting" button are. If these instructions are helpful, please mark this review as helpful and help others find it at the top of the list!

I would give this 5 stars, but we were spoiled by our prior ice maker which was 28 pound capacity. We got this smaller version because I was tired lugging my heavy my old ice maker to the sink once every week or two when I wanted to give it a thorough cleaning (more on that topic in a moment) When you turn it on, the first batch will be small ice cubes, no matter what setting you put. However, after a couple batches, you will get reasonable sized ice cubes and the ice maker will continue to push out ice cubes until the in is full, or all day long if you keep using ice cubes and refilling the water bin. Quality of Ice: Remember, this is ice-machine ice, not freezer ice. If you have used ice at a hotel or motel, then you will recognize the clear, slightly wet ice cubes. Freezer ice is white, dry and several degrees below freezing. If you want to turn these ice cubes into white, sub-zero (Celsius) freezer ice, but them in a plastic bag and stick them in the freezer. At the end of the night, we put our extra ice in the freezer and save it for the next day, so we don't have to wait for the first batch of ice to come out. Noise level. the fan and condenser are quiet. The only real noise is the falling ice cubes at the end of each batch. If you are in a camping trailer, you don't want to run this while taking a nap. Except for the falling ice cubes, it's about as quiet as a regular desktop computer. Reliability. I just bought this ice maker, but can tell you the lifespan of a slightly larger version that appears to have the same manufacturer (though different brand name). Our last ice maker which has many of the same design and parts, lasted 5 summers. Admittedly, that would be only be 18-24 months of continuous use, but if you use this for summers or camping, I suspect you will also get about 5 years of use. Maintenance: Our house has no A/C so when not in use, the ice maker becomes room temperature (80 degrees or more) and the interior becomes warm and humid. To keep the ice cubes fresh tasting and prevent eventual mold in the water basin, every week or two, I empty any remaining water in the sink and wipe down all interior parts with a paper towel. When the ice maker starts up each batch, it runs water through the water tubes a minute before it starts to make ice, so this helps flush out the water tubes. Alternatives. If you don't mind losing a little more counter space, don't mind lugging a heavier model to the sink once a week, and don't mind paying an extra $50, I recommend the New Air Al-100 Ice maker.&nbsp;<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/NewAir-AI-100R-28-Pound-Portable-Icemaker-Red/dp/B0017Y3GGI/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">NewAir AI-100R 28-Pound Portable Icemaker, Red</a>&nbsp;It is sold under a different brand and has minor appearance differences on the to. However, if you examine the fan grill, the design of the back side, and look through the ventilation slots at the interior parts, you will realize they were both manufactured in the same place. Although though the total ice per day is only a couple pounds more, the New Air model has a bigger variety of exterior colors, it puts out more ice per batch, and it hold more ice in the catch basket before it shuts itself off.

I like this cooler. It fulfilled my needs and expectations, but it does have limitations. This review will concentrate on those limitations, which may make the review seem to be more negative than my rating. But I really do feel it deserves 4 stars. I am not fond of fishing in an ice chest for a can of beer. I wanted something a little more elegant for patio parties. That is why I bought this cooler, and it meets that need. This cooler holds 5 liter mini-kegs. That is 1.32 gallons or 169 fl.oz. - or about 14 glasses of beer. You should plan on changing the mini-keg during the course of a party. However, quick disconnects are used, so keg change is quick and easy. This cooler is not very efficient - either in power use or cooling capacity. The power draw is stated as 65W, which is about 40% of the power drawn by my full-size refrigerator. However, the cooling capacity is minuscule compared to a refrigerator. The cooler will keep a keg cold, but it takes most of a day to cool down a warm keg. You will want to pre-cool your kegs in a refrigerator - especially kegs that will be changed during a party. The minimum set temperature is 36F, which is where I have mine set. The cooler shuts off at 38F and restarts at 41F. The hoses used are small diameter, so the fluid stream is "weak". It takes about 40 seconds to dispense a 12oz glass of beer. Increasing the keg pressure does not materially increase the flow rate, but it does increase the amount of foam on the beer. The CO2 pressure regulator should be set fairly low for a "normal" amount of foam. This is plain physics, not the fault of the cooler. When the keg is under pressure, CO2 dissolves into the liquid - which then reappears as foam when the beer is dispensed. Lower pressure, less foam. This cooler apparently uses a Peltier effect solid-state cooling module, so the only moving part of the system is the ventilation fan. The fan is louder than the fans used in tower-format desktop computers, but it is not objectionable. Outside on the patio, you have to listen hard to hear it. It is necessary to add water inside the cooler, so the keg is sitting in water. Presumably, the purpose of this water is to improve the energy transfer from the keg to the Peltier module. However, a quick drain tap is provided, so removing the water is easy. The power cord is short, so you will need to place the cooler near an outlet or use an extension cord. My one real complaint about this cooler is that the power cord is ungrounded - 2 wire. Seems to me this presents a safety hazard for an appliance that likely will be used outdoors. I could be wrong, but I don't think a GFCI outlet or breaker will trip, under ground fault conditions, unless the appliance has the third wire (dedicated ground). The cooler has metal sides. The metal kegs sit in water that also is in contact with the Peltier module. I definitely would feel more comfortable if the cooler was grounded and had a contact to ground the keg as well. I plan to unplug the cooler each time I change the keg.

When it comes to purchasing something expensive, I am a bit obsessive, spending days and sometimes weeks reading product reviews, comparing specs, taking measurements, and otherwise driving myself (and my wife) crazy with my indecisiveness. This process was no different when I wanted to buy a built-in beverage/wine cooler for my new wet bar. I say "beverage/wine cooler" because I didn't know exactly what I wanted, all I knew is that it had to be 24" wide to fit the space and I absolutely did not want a fan-based unit, it had to be a traditional compressor type. I'm a beer guy, and after spending even more time researching the proper way to store and/or age beer, I realized that a wine cooler would not always drop to low enough temps for beers with lower ABV (like pale ales, pilsners, IPAs, etc). For those kinds of beers you want to be able to reach around 40 degrees, maybe even lower if you like those beers extra cold. So I eliminated a dedicated wine cooler from my search and focused on "beverage coolers" which could drop to temps in the 30s. Enter the Kalamera 175 Can Beverage Refrigerator! What mainly drew me to the Kalamera was the fact that it had removable wire shelves. With some beers you do not want them laying on their side like wine bottles. Especially if you're aging beer - you always want that beer standing up, so sediment doesn't form a circle on the bottle, and if it's corked, so the cork doesn't impart its own "flavors" into the beer. No traditional wine cooler is going to let you store a bottle upright due to the design of the shelves. But this Kalamera unit accommodates that by removing shelves. While you lose some overall capacity, you gain the ability to store beer the correct way, which may or may not be important to you. (Beer snob note: A lot of aging experts don't think you should age beer long-term in a cooler/fridge, because over time the moisture can infiltrate the beer and have negative impact. While I can't say with any degree of expertise if this is true, I tend to err on the side of safety, and plan to keep the more expensive bottles I want to age in the garage or a closet in the basement, for a more "natural" environment without extra moisture. This fridge is more for my everyday beers I plan to drink within a few weeks). Another great feature of this Kalamera is the switchable door handle. The way my wet bar is set up is such that if the handle is on the left and the door opens to the right, you wouldn't be able to easily walk around it and get into the fridge. Putting the handle on the right so it opened left made it much easier to access everything. Also, the blue LED is a nice touch that makes people go "Oh hey, you have a beer fridge." (Interesting note: put some cans of Boddington's on the top shelf and check out how that LED lights them up.) I am impressed by the sturdy nature of the fridge, with a super heavy glass door, solid hinges, and a compressor that really is near-silent. I mean I only hear it when I am right next to it and lowering the temperature which forces the compressor on. I can't even tell it's running when it's operating regularly. While $750 is still a chunk of change for what is essentially a glorified beer fridge, it's actually cheaper than almost every other 24" model out there from other manufacturers, and when you see how well it operates and how solidly it's built, you realize it is actually worth it. I know my beer (and my wife) thank me for finally deciding on this guy.

This says it is NOT for the 'E' (RPWF E) however, with a simple 'Work Around', it can be used in a GE Profile Series refrigerator. GE uses the 'E' series water filter with a simple RFID tag as a SHAMEFUL marketing/sales 'Gimmick' to justify TRIPPING the price of a good water filter. What benefit does the RFID tag provide for the additional $20 to $30? -Does it help the filter measure percent of filter contamination? NO, IT DOES NOT! -Perhaps it measures the pressure drop as the filter becomes more clogged, alerting the owner to the problem. NO, IT DOES NOT! -Does it show a potential failure of the filter media, alerting the owner? NO, IT DOES NOT! -How about leak detection, preventing water damage to the refrigerator? IT DOES NOT! Then WHY is the RFID tag on the back of each filter....????? FOUR reasons: 1-Run a SIMPLE countdown timer (worth about 50 cents), 2-Turns on the "OVERDUE" light, REGARDLESS of the level of TRUE contamination of the filter. 3-Uses filter 'Serial number' identification to STOP the CUSTOMER from simply removing the RFID tag from the back of an old filter using the tag for a 'Non-RFID' tagged filter and PREVENTS the CUSTOMER from saving money! 4-MAIN REASON get the customer to PAY M-U-C-H more for each filter than it is worth and buy filters ONLY from GE!!!! NO competition, a MONOPOLY! ----Imagine if the car companies did that! You could ONLY buy tires from your local dealer for your make and model of car! Here is how I now use THIS water filter (and others) in my GE Profile Series refrigerator. 1-Locate the 'Blank' filter by-pass plastic piece sent with your GE Profile Series refrigerator (found this from another reviewer noting there was an RFDI tag on the back of the by-pass). 2-Locate the label "BACK This side must face inward" and peel it off. (see the picture) 3-Remove the RFID tag under the label. 4-Open the water filter housing cover inside the refrigerator. 5-Place the RFID tag over the 'FCC' label on the back inside the filter housing near the screw, hold in place by re-using the label you peeled off the 'Blank' filter by-pass. (see picture) NOW you can install ANY water filter compatible with GE RPWF (NOT 'E'), saving from $20 to $30+ each!! --NOTE: 1-This fix will turn OFF the countdown feature but WILL leave ON the Oz. fill and 'Auto-Fill' features. 2-The front panel will now show "NOT FILTERING" when you fill a container with water or ice (even though you installed a new filter). This additional insult to the CUSTOMER can be simply overridden by: A) Removing the two screws (inside the upper opening of the dispenser in the door) holding the display on the door. B) Removing the circuit board connectors C) Removing the Torx screws holding the circuit board to the display. D) Placing a small rectangular piece of black tape over the "NOT" word on the display. (See Picture) E) Reassemble. Happily chose ANY compatible filter saving $20 to $30 each filter change! (This filter too)

Waited nearly 2 years to write this review because I see no point in writing one when it's new. Nobody wants to find out it's a piece of crap a year down the line. I've had mine 19 months now and I still love it. I use this as my only fridge since my roommates have left me no space in our kitchen fridge, so I keep all my food in this little Igloo. It's heavy. I couldn't lift it and had to have a neighbor do it and even he struggled. It's very good quality so I'm not even going to complain on that. A lot of space. The fridge runs deep, so if you position your bottles right and use stackable containers, you can fit A LOT in this fridge. It's insane. You can fit about 8 soda cans inside the door. Me personally, I keep sodas stacked, with vegetables in the bottom tray, lay my condiment bottles down on the 2nd row above that, keep food stored on the 2nd row and use the top 3rd row for keeping stuff extra cold since it's near the freezer. Not really a true "freezer". The freezer works very good but it's only to keep small things frozen. It does not get cold enough to keep food that's suppose to be frozen, frozen, so do not put stuff like ice cream, large packs of meat or any thick frozen dinners in it, they will melt and spoil and you'll think of my review and I'll be like I told you so. I use it to keep small things like butter, hotdog packs, wingettes and vegetables on ice, but do not try to put anything thick in here for long-term storage except butter, small packs of meat and condiments. I had put a 12 pack of chicken legs in there for a week thinking it would be ok and they went bad, I had to throw out the whole pack. It's also useful to get drinks cold fast. And no you can't remove the freezer tray to make more space. I but found it's welded to the back of the fridge and the thermostat wiring is welded into it. Swappable doors. The door comes off so can switch it to the other side if you want. Easy to clean. All the inside shelves and doors easily pop out for easy cleaning; just be careful when popping out the freezer flap because it only has plastic hinges that could break and you'd need a new flap. I had a soda explode in there and it took me 4 months before I decided to clean it. Surprisingly, all I had to do was wipe it down with water and dish soap and it came right off. Easy peasy. Adjustable feet. The front has two plastic adjustable feet while the back has no feet, just a metal bar. I have raggedy wooden floors so I don't care, but if you have nice floors you'll want to put a rubber mat under it so it doesn't scratch your good floors. A few tips: Use the bottom row for condiments and lay them down rather than standing them up so you can have more vertical space for another tray or just to place extra stuff If you use a tray in the very top slot, it will get like 80% benefit of the freezer and will keep things frozen. Found this out the hard way when I put some cucumbers on my top shelf only to find them frozen bricks the next day Although I love my Igloo, I took away a star because over time it has gotten LOUD. All of a sudden, every time the thermostat kicks on there's a very loud *POP* that is nerve-racking. I don't know if something is breaking or if it's normal but it still seems to run fine and it's been doing that popping gig for about a year now. It's probably ok but just really annoying.

We love our new Knox 48 Quart Electric Cooler/Warmer! I was like a kid waiting for Santa! When the cooler arrived I opened the shipping box with excitement. I was slightly concerned that although I had struggled between ordering the red or the blue. I was certain I had decided on the blue. Yet, the Knox Electric cooler/warmer box showed a pretty red cooler/warmer. I figured it wasn't all that big of a deal since I really liked the red as well. When I opened the item box, I was thrilled to see the cooler/warmer inside was indeed the blue. I love the multi functional use this cooler provides. Not just the option to use as a cooler or warmer, but that you can use it in the car, for a trip to the market keeping your cold items cold while you run additional errands, take a long drive as we often do, take it into our hotel room when traveling. Use it right in the backyard by the pool and avoid the kids running through the house with wet feet and risking a slip/fall as well as the mess! Take it camping, which we never do. Lol. Maybe we finally will. We can be really lazy and take it upstairs to have cold sodas. I'm sure there are a dozen or more great uses. I plugged it in right out of the box, switched it to cool from the off position and it's been a little less than thirty minutes, and it's already cold inside. I don't know what the temperature actually is inside, but I do know it is doing it's job. It feels to be of excellent high quality. It's weight is mainly on top where the motor and fan is. The wheels roll smoothly and the pull handle is most convenient, and sturdy. It came with one nice plastic division rack to keep smaller items, such as condiments upright and secure. It does have a slot for an additional division rack or the option to divide the cooler/warmer from the right or left side. When I placed the order I had assumed that you could add ice if you wanted to perhaps take it down to beach with you, but the instructions say that you should not even rinse the cooler/warmer with water, so I guess that is not an option. The cooler/warmer requires a plug in source to function. I suppose you could add frozen gel packs prior to your taking down out to the beach. This, is the only fault I can find with this fabulous cooler/warmer. I am thrilled and grateful to have been selected to purchase this Knox 48 Quart Electric Cooler/Warmer, at a discount in exchange for an honest, and unbiased review. I am a consumer that relies on the integrity of other reviewers, prior to the purchase of most products. An embellishment of a product does not help me, you or the seller. Personally, I don't like to toss my hard earned money into the garbage any more than I suspect you do. Therefor, it is my genuine opinion that this cooler/warmer does all it claims it will. It is indeed spacious, with the added bonus of the division ability. It has a broad rage of uses, and is made exceptionally well. It is equally as attractive and durable as other coolers on the market, and it is priced in line with others in its class. We are excited to get the most out of this cooler/warmer throughout every season for years to come.

I've only had this a few weeks, and I am still fine-tuning my use per volumes of detergent and fabric softener, and keeping track of how much different loads have affected how hard this machine has had to work. I tried strictly manual washing, both the plunger style and the salad-spinner style. Both proved to be very effective, but took way longer and were much, much harder, than I like. Salutes to all those (mostly women) who have come before and labored with whole family loads done by hand, and to everyone doing laundry by hand today! I'm still learning the proper ratios of products to water, and I am using major brand detergent and liquid fabric softener for now. I'll experiment with alternatives once I know exactly what I am doing. I chose this model because I can always do smaller loads than it is is rated for, but a smaller capacity washer caps out rather quickly for me. The first couple of loads were my dog's blankets and bedding. They were far, far dirtier than I realized and the water from the first washes was thick with mud and other things. Because of how much time since I had done commercial laundry that included these things, they needed to be washed several times - the first time through. I'm developing a habit of washing his bedding every couple of weeks. The rinse cycles are fewer to get the final rinse water almost completely clean. A common complaint centers on the built in lint filter. This is a complaint across brands and capacities. I did get a couple of the floating lint collectors, and the water drains into my bathtub which has a hair filter over the drain. But, the first couple of loads produced hair and lint bricks in the built-in filter! The filter is one part of what I need to use, but I cannot complain. At all. The only shortcomings are adjusting to this needing constant monitoring. The only automatic things are the timers. Everything else needs to be kept track of. For a price tag of less than $200.00 USD (likely to increase with the trade war), I can't expect more. The spinner is breathtakingly efficient! My one wish would be that the spinner capacity was closer to the washer capacity, but that is a standard design across all brands that I know of. It probably means smaller motors are used on the spinners, and that will cut down on weight and expense, both affecting end-user prices. I line dry, and I have had to learn to adjust how much gets washed and spun to how much hanging space I have. I just got a portable drying rack ('umbrella style' for indoor use) to increase hanging room. I'm still tweaking best techniques for line drying as it relates to stiffness. We are trained to think fragrance over function when we think of fabric softeners, but they are softeners first. Still learning and adapting. I only have a couple of washable things that are too bulky for this, but those can go to a commercial laundry on an occasional basis. No big deal. This is in my bathroom. I slide it to the side of my bathtub and position the built-in hose to drain into the tub. I use the hand held shower head to fill the tub. Both the wash tub and the spinner have hose connects on the back. The spinner won't spin when the lid is open, so it isn't easy to use the spinner to enhance rinsing without a hose attached. I'll be getting an adapter for the bathroom faucet, and getting a more durable length of hose to attach and remove depending on whether the washer is in use or not. Other reviewers, both here and on YT, have other observations and experiences that are worth getting acquainted with. Buying something like this has me doing a lot of research. This was the best solution for my laundry needs, and I have no regrets. Absolutely better for me than plunging, scrubbing, and manual spin washing.

The machine itself is amazing and cleans stuff really well. I had to use the reviews here and YouTube to figure out how to work it because my instructions had been translated from Italian and never really corrected. The pictures were pretty unhelpful too so I'll share what I learned: Store this close to the kitchen sink for easier access. The cord is short so invest in an extension cord of some sort. You will absolutely need to fill this from a sink so be prepared for that. It's also bigger than you think probably and weighs 9kg empty. I'm disabled and it's difficult for me to carry so I have to scoot it everywhere so keep the size and weight in mind. I'm about 6 foot and this comes up to my stomach and is about as wide abouts two of me. So it's about the size of a full machine. You have to fill it from the back. The detached hose connects to one of two of the small circular bits in the back. The one for the washer is just that, for the rinse and wash cycles. The one for the dryer I'm told helps get suds out of clothes but I have no idea how that would drain to eventually dry clothes so I don't use it. Instead I keep using rinse cycles until the clothes are totally clean. There's a small metal ring that comes with this meant to clamp the larger end of the fill hose to the sink faucet. If yours is anything like mine, good luck getting any of that to work. You'll have to invest in an adapter. Take the hose with you to a real physical store so you can find a proper fit instead of trying to figure it out online. You'll save yourself so much trouble. The hose that gets the dirty water out should probably feed into a large bucket of at least 5 gallons. It's hard for the machine to pump it all up to the sink so you'll have an easier time with the bucket. Invest in some kind of very flat, absorbent kitchen rug to put the machine on because water will drip no matter how careful you are. Plus it'll keep the machine from shaking everywhere when you try to dry things. Put your laundry in one piece at a time to minimize tangling. A tangled mess keeps the washer from rotating properly. Also be careful to fill the dryer only about half full otherwise anger will possess your machine and it will shake across your kitchen and generally be a horrible nightmare of noise and movement. The spin mechanism also needs to rest after so many cycles to keep it from burning out so if your laundry isn't spinning, turn the machine off for about 20 or so minutes before coming back to it. Not as convenient as a regular machine but the safety feature keeps you from messing up your machine accidently. For ESPECIALLY dirty clothes like muddy work clothes (my husband is in construction) rinse the clothes at about 6. Drain the dirty water because it will probably be close to black and then wash at max time with your detergent of choice. Then follow up by a drain and rinse at 9 because the water will again be nasty and the rinse helps get suds out. You might need a couple of wash or rinse cycles for especially gross clothes. Then load the dryer a bit at a time, hanging up clothes that are mostly dry because the machine won't get them totally done since it's just spin and no heat. Regular dirty clothes can be washed like normal but will need a rinse cycle because of suds and don't forget to put delicates on gentle with bras in a lingerie bag. That's all I can think of for now. I recommend reading the instructions anyway because there's some useful information like keeping your machine on a sturdy, level surface and whatnot. I'll try to post photos later of what mine looks like set up in my kitchen in case what I've said wasn't clear.

Two things before reviewing: (1) This item was received as a sample product for either a reduced cost or for free. If this is an issue, please skip the review. (2) There IS a video on this product detailing how it works and everything about it. Simply put in my user name and the product's name and search for it on a specific video-related site. (I cannot put the exact name in, but YOU can search and find the TUBE, or channel, if you get my meaning). It is very thorough and will break down the what and how to better assist with your decision. The reason for not uploading here is because this site currently allows only 100MB videos max. To make that meaningful, you either need a video that is VERY short or a video with quality considerations around 240P or even lower. Personally, I would rather you watch something in 1080P and see what I am talking about. Now, looking at this model, let's talk about situating it first. This is lightweight, so you can move it just about anywhere, with only a few needs really limiting the placement. The needs I mean are power, water, and draining. All of these can easily be met in a bathroom, a dorm area, or in a RV, plus other places. The main limitation is the drain, because it is shorter. With controls, you have two water inlets on the upper left and upper right, with three dials located between them. The first is you wash timer, the second your setting (delicate, normal, drain), and the third your spin timer. I go into the setting preferences on each within the video, but note that the lower settings on timers are for delicate items, the mid-range numbers are for normal, and the higher ones are for your thicker/more absorbent items like towels and possibly jeans. The water inlets go to their adjoining sides, and you basically need to start with the water connected to the left side. With use, you are talking about a compact item with washing and spin capability. Your cycling will basically go wash, spin, rinse, with a periodic need for rewash in there if your items are foul. Now, for washing, you are basically using a washer with an agitator inside instead of a tub, meaning it spin-spins to one side then switches versus a giant moving tub. This does a good job and allows it to be more compact, plus some of the pieces are less inclined to break. For spinning, you place each item inside, making sure they are not bunched, and select how long you want them to cycle contingent on the aforementioned criteria. You can also drain while doing this and prep for another cycle, or for rinse depending on how you want to rinse. During spin, you will have some water drainage, too, and you can either drain it OR you can pump it back into the tub if your clothing was not heavily soiled. Before rinsing, you need to decide if you want to rinse on the spin side or on the tub side, and you should clean the tub accordingly. This is very much like using a smaller version of a washer. The motor inside also makes it drain easily and especially so when you compare it with something like a gravity drain, which is worlds slower. We are also talking an Ivation product, which I have had GREAT success with. Ivation makes nice items and they have always had good service for me. I have owned quite a few, too, and so many different types ranging from vacuums and lamps to items like this, a steamer, safes, and beyond. Again, look up the video for more detail.

I read several reviews before buying this that were VERY misleading. So here is the STRAIGHT story. This ice maker works brilliantly for our purposes. The ice cubes are not HUGE but they aren't wet either. The quantity of ice it makes each time is not huge but it makes ice that is perfect for cooling a beverage or making a cocktail and it does so quickly and continuously We bought this for camping. We like whisky on the rocks. Our friends like ice tea or gin and tonic, etc. The ice is perfect for this use. Once you fill it with water and choose the size of ice desired the machine continuously makes ice until the water is used up or you turn it off. There has not been a time yet when one water fill has not provided us all the ice we needed. I estimate one fill up will produce about 75 of the larger ice cubes. There is NOT a big difference between small, medium and large ice. Not sure why you would choose small. It makes about 8 1-1 1/2 inch diameter ice cubes every 10-13 minutes. After 2 rounds of ice making we build our drinks and there is plenty of ice for round 2 by the time we have finished the first round. The ice is left in the front compartment of the Della which is cooled by the machine but will not stay frozen for a long time. Ice will start to slowly melt an hour or so after you make it. Unused ice will simply melt and the water returns to the reservoir ready to be turned into ice again. There is an audible alert when water level is too low to make another batch of ice. It comes with an ice scoop to easily remove the newly made ice from the front storage compartment. Machine itself is lightweight and has a small footprint. Be aware! If you move it from one location to another you need to wait 30-45 minutes for it to reset so it can be used again The machine needs to be relatively level and completely stationary. Not perfectly level, as we use ours in a small Aliner camping trailer. Once we go from one place to another we pull the machine from the cabinet and on to the counter by the sink. The trailer is never perfectly level and sometimes has a small, noticeable grade. After 45-60 minutes we turn it on. The first batch of ice sometimes takes 20-25 minutes to make, After that the ice is made more frequently as indicated above. It is quiet, easy to use and most importantly, makes real ice that you can really use. I would not recommend this if you are trying to make ice to replace what was in a large cooler. The capacity and production rate will not support this. It might work to supply your small 6 pack type cooler. We have made ice for soft sided coolers we put in a backpack for a day hike. Perfect for this application. It isn't going to work on a boat to ice down caught fish. Boats are to unstable for this to run and again the capacity will not support. But if you want to have cool drinks for several people or host a campground cocktail party the Della ice maker is genius. I can see this working for tailgating also as long as you have a power source. We would definitely buy this again but I doubt we will have to. This is a quality appliance and has already worked flawlessly on many camping trips.

I certainly like the concept of thus product. Nobody likes climbing into their oven for a bit of the scrub. This liner is easy to use, simple to clean and can save you a lot of backache. I'll admit that the product differed in what I expected in that I was expecting these to be more like silicone baking mats used for cupcake molds and what not. Instead this product feels more like a heavily laminated piece of paper. This doesn't affect the performance in the oven, but does make for easier cleanup. That pan liner worked decently well too. It was clearly the same material, but a bit thinner. The idea here was that you wouldn't have use oil or fat in the pan. The performance of the pan liner was so so. I think it would depend heavily on what you are cooking. The product photo shows a ribeye witch would probably work well. But for a dish that requires a lot of manipulation in the pan (i.e. eggs, stir fry, sauteed onions) this liner may not work super well. Being light it moves around in the pan as you try to move the food and makes things somewhat difficult. I did cook a decent looking omlet for the kid without the use of any oil. There was a bit of sticking and I had to lift the liner as I removed the egg, but it went decently well. There is one unresolved issue that I contacted the seller about and will update my review as soon as I get a response. On the list of instructions there is a warning at the bottom about not using these products if you have birds in the house as it may cause harm to the animal. So what then does it do to people? I do not want to speculate on this so I will await the seller's response. But this could be a determining factor in whether or not I use this product long term. Update 7/14/16: I contacted the seller in regards to the harmful to birds comment. They explained as I would have thought. Being a teflon coated sheet there are issues when being exposed to high heat conditions (500 deg F and up). For this same reason one is not supposed to use any nonstick cookware at high temperatures. If you do the teflon barrier breaks down and releases gases that could be somewhat harmful. Most of us have been doing this our entire lives and are non the wiser which is why I bumped my rating up to 5 star from 4 star. As long as you follow the directions (don't use above 500 deg F) you should be fine. If you do, some gases can be released. The part I wasn't aware of has to do with birds having a higher efficiency cardiovascular system which would result in a greater affect for them. This is why they brought canaries into mines. So I commend House of Habitat for putting a warning on a teflon coated product where I have never seen one on other teflon products in the past. On a side note I would also like to state that they were very speedy in response to my query. Also the content of the letter was very well written and explained. I somewhat anticipated a brief response but clearly the rep took her time with the reaponse. All customer relations should be done so well. If anyone interested should care to see the response they should send a request and I'll gladly post it. Disclaimer: I received this product at a reduced rate for reviewing purposes. This however did not influence my review nor did I receive any compensation for this review.

No, I had not heard of this brand either when I went out looking for a refrigerator to replace my 30 year old GE. Our problem is space. Even though I certainly wouldn't mind a huge Viking or something, the reality was around 18 cu ft. I went all over the place, looked at every brand and found that most companies spent their best efforts on the bigger models. Then, I saw a Fisher and Paykell. It was the right size, had a beautiful simple design and the use of interior space was better than others in its size range. It had the desired bottom freezer, the controls were simple and made sense, the trays for fruits and vegetables were easy to access and the glass shelves could be adjusted, removed and cleaned easily. Style-wise, I was drawn to the clean, curved door design made of smooth metal rather than textured plastic. I needed white, but the stainless is extremely good looking. F&P also now offers models with dispensers in the door. Note that the doors are not reversible so you have to order the left or right door version. The glass shelves extend from side to side and slide into little slots. It is easy to slide them out for cleaning or adjustment. Surprisingly, the little plastic dams that surround almost all glass shelves these days are absent on the ends of these shelves. I strongly suggest that you get a couple of shallow plastic trays to hold meat or other drippy things. That is probably a good idea for any fridge, actually. There is no dedicated meat compartment I suspect a special separate compartment would break up the interior and isn't really needed anyway. The wide expanse of shelves is what makes this interior special. We took out one of the shelves to free up space for big and tall things. There are two little lidded compartments in the door that we use for butter and cheese. They are not very big and certainly could have been designed to hold more in the same space they occupy. The fruit and vegetable trays are lidded and separate, with little adjustable vents to control the humidity. They slide nicely, access is good and cleaning is easy. We like the bottom freezer. It uses a system of separate drawers, rather than one big bin. This is a good high-end touch and the real drawer sliders make it nicer to use. The bins on other models seemed terribly cheap in comparison. The lighting in the fridge section is fine. The drawer system for the freezer part precludes a lighting system, at least one that wouldn't be impossibly complex. But, the bins slide out and it is easy to see in them under normal kitchen light. On another site, a reviewer complained that a glass shelf broke. They do look a little vulnerable as they are so long and thin. However, we stored two turkeys on one shelf with no problems. Tempered glass is very strong and I would think problems would be rare. There were also a couple of complaints about noise. Our kitchen is like a stage where every sound is projected into the adjacent living room. Still, I can hardly hear it and it is rarely even on anyway. This may be a princess and the pea situation. In our case, the old fridge was 20x noisier, so this is fine. Operation-wise, we are very happy. The fruits and vegetables do indeed last much longer than before, the ice cream (even Ben & Jerrys) is hard and the ice doesn't stick. One oddity is that even when the feet are adjusted to tilt the unit back a bit, the doors will not close all the way on their own. The formidable gaskets hold it back. But not to worry. The door-open alarm will not let you forget. It will probably rid your house of rodents and insects. We are happy with this fridge. It looks great, has about as much utility as possible in its size range and works well. I am hoping it will be reliable.

Note: I bought the black one, but I know most people prefer stainless steel, so I thought I would post this review for both fridges. We are very happy with our fridge. It is huge on the inside, and very bright, and the shelves are sturdy and there is plenty of room to organize the fridge the way you like. The freezer is nice and roomy and the only thing I do not like are the 2 wire baskets at the bottom. I have a hard time pulling them out since items peek through the wire mesh and get caught with the items in the basket underneath or on top. But the nicest feature is the fact that the ice maker is on the SIDE, on the freezer door. The only caveat is that you have to make sure not to place anything on the top shelf to block the connection to the side ice maker, but there is plenty of space on the top shelf, so it is not too big of a problem. According to manufacturer's specs, there is no more cubic feet in this model than the older one that had the ice maker inside the freezer (The model LG LSC27910SB and this one both have 10.24 cubic feet of space). However, I prefer have shelf space rather than a side drawer space. Plus, the pull-out ice bin on the side is really nifty and compact, and slides easily in. It is clear plastic so you can see how much ice is in it. I also really like the tall dispenser. At first, I thought it was gimmicky until I had company and had to fill 2 pitchers of water several times through the evening. No tilting and trying to fit the pitcher under a short dispenser! It really is a nice feature. And if you have a fragile pitcher, there is a water button that you can use instead of pushing against the dispenser. Finally, the digital display looks really cool. The numbers and symbols are this pretty blue color (not red, which would have been horrible), and after you get used to pressing the buttons to change the settings and not the display (for some reason, we kept doing this when trying to change the ice setting from crush to cube or vice versa), it is very handy. Aside from the forementioned button for Ice Type, there are buttons for setting the temps of your refrigerator (40 degrees for us-- at 38 degrees the juice froze) and freezer (0 degrees), a button for "Ice Plus", a feature that revs up the ice machine and makes more ice cubes faster (but don't forget to turn it off when you have enough ice!), and a button to change lock the display and deal with the alarm (an alarm can go off after 30 seconds to warn you you have left the door open). Also, the display of the temperatures is not the actual temperature of the fridge or freezer, which would have been really cool, but the settings. The water dispenser requires a filter that the manufacturer recommends be replaced every 6 months, and they have a display with a monthly digital countdown for that! We have not decided whether we will replace it every 6 months, and if we do not, there is supposed to be a way to reset this timer so it won't bother you if you don't. We bought the black one, and we love it. The handles are longer than the older model and look very sleek. The only odd thing about the black is that the doors are smooth black, the but the rest of the fridge is that textured black that fridges usually come in. At first, it drove me crazy, but now I do not notice it. We are very, very happy with this fridge and would recommend it. We got it from our local big box hardware store (only one of the national stores carry it, the other does not carry LG), and we bought the extended warranty just in case. It was worth the $99 for 4 years of peace.

first of all as someone else mentioned all the bad reviews are from people that have little knowledge of homebrewing. This system by no means is plug n play or should i say..its not plug n go. By spending an extra $25 this system is great ($15-ish for 5ft hose and $5-ish for digital thermometer and $5 for some putty...keep reading for explanation). But by spending an extra $150 this system works like a champ and a top of line kegerator!! MOD#1 This system is more European than American. Its like a mix. They used Euro fittings so i just replaced the entire 2-1/2" black Column Tower with a Chrome one and "Standard" (USA) fittings (this was $60)...i admit replacing the colomn was not needed but it just looked nicer and i wanted to customize / my handles. MOD #2 Avanti supplied a 3 foot hose which is way short and at least a 5 foot hose is needed for proper "foam control" between the temp/beer/co2 mix. The #1 reason for foam is pople not having properly dialed in the co2/temp to the specific beer. Anyways be sure to get a 5' x 3/16" I.D. hose with 3/16" tailpiece and hex nut connection - available at micromatic or beveragefactory or your favorite brewery part seller. this should about $20 shipped MOD #3 This is not needed either but i recommend buying a good external temperature controller if you want "better control" of the temperature as i noticed the stock temperature controller would fluctuate 4 to 6 degrees Fahrenheit on average however there were times i seen it fluctuate by as many as 8 (8 was rare). i bought this "Johnson temperature controller" from Micromatic [...] Without a doubt though please do yourself a favor and go to your local fishstore and buy a digital thermometer with a chord for $5 and stick it in your kegerator to make sure you have a good temp. ****** TIPS for those buying this Avanti unit: ******* TIP #1 KEEP THE DOOR CLOSED!!! if u keep opening the door its like BBQing and opening the lid...you are letting all the warm air in!!! SO KEEP IT CLOSED!! TIP #1.5 MAKE SURE TO SEAL OFF all "Air-holes" in other words make sure no air can come in or out of the unit when it is close, i sealed the hole off in the back (the hose hole) with some silly putty type putty that they use for posters from office depot. TIP #2 REPLACE THE STOCK HOSE with 5ft TIP #3 Buy a cheap digital thermometer (the one with the chord) as this will save you the headache of guessing temp. I bought one at Pectco/Petsmart in the Fish section. Dial in your temp TIP #4 Make sure you have the right temp/Co2 mix for your specific beer TIP #5 let the keg sit inside the kegerator at the desired temerature for 48-72 hours to let the keg "settle in", if you try to use it right away then don't be surprised by foamy beer. LET THE KEGGED BEER SETTLE! TIP #5 after all that if u still have foamy beer its something you are doing wrong but its not the machine. check this site to troubleshoot [...]

We didn't know what to think about Bosch when we came across this oven/rangetop (in white), but were immediately struck by the retro look, 5-element broiler, and knobs easily-accesible on the *front* of the range. The price is quite reasonable for the quality and look. So we took the leap and purchased a floor model. This is a great oven! It suggests a 40-50 amp circuit breaker. We used a 50-amp breaker with a 30 ft. run of 8-gauge wire and the 3-prong pigtail connector from Home Depot (heavy-duty, $24, slotted -- not the one with an L-shaped prong). It is 30" wide at the widest point and fit into an opening just an eighth of an inch wider than 30". There are leveling adjustments on the legs and comes with a floor mount to slide one of the back legs into to stabilize the oven, which jiggles slightly when the door is opened, without it. The result is plenty of juice to to heat with. The burners heat up to a glowing red within 5 seconds. Impressive, compared to the old electric range we replaced with this Bosch. The Controls: The dials are great. Easy to turn, and for the two burners with multiple rings, allow the size of the hot part of the burner to be controlled. The oven, timers, and warming drawer are controlled by touch-type controls and a single dial at the back of the range. We had trouble with the Timer button registering a push, but that may be a fluke with this model only. A repairman is on his way to check it out. To turn on the oven requires 3 or 4 pushes, turns of the dial. Not bad. Get's fast with practice. And it's very nice to be able to set the "done" time and cooking time and have the oven figure out what time it needs to turn on to have the meal ready at the given time. The warming drawer has two settings, is stainless steel, and may be used independently of the oven, if desired. We are very pleased with this oven. We like the look (again, we prefer the white) and how it generally operates. However: - The buttons are a bit difficult to press, requiring many attempts to get it to "take" (e.g., timer, light, cooking mode) - The cooktop lights near each dial when hot. Although that might be a useful feature for some, this cooktop is missing any LEDs indicating that the burner is ON. That means, you *cannot* tell at a glance whether the burners are on -- the lights just mean that the burners are hot. So you're constantly having to manually check each one, to see whether the little black line is exactly in the UP position. A simple LED on each burner dial would solve this and it's a surprising omission. The way these burners work, they're either 100% on, or completely off. The dial only dictates the percentage of time that they're on full power. So at a glance, you cannot tell whether the burner is OFF, or just in-between full-glow mode. - The top is pretty difficult (nearly impossible) to keep clean. The smallest amount of food, or even the bit of residue on the bottom of your pots from your previous burners will cause the most horrible-looking black rings to be "welded" onto the cooktop surface. There is a special non-abrasive cleaner that must be purchased to get it off (that won't scratch the glass cooktop like Comet would). Each time a burner is used to heat anything but water, it will leave black marks under the pan that take a few minutes to get off with special cleaner and a razor blade.

After much research we decided to replace our 20 year old Jenn Air downdraft dual fuel range, with the GE CAFE dual fuel range. I was not happy to see the old stove go as it had been old reliable. I also was reading all the pros & cons available on a new range. So much info out there. I even questioned repeating the dual fuel. I do not so far miss the downdraft, It was a good venting system, but allowed drafts on cold winter days. My old stove looked like new on the outside, but was rusting from the inside out. Questioning my choice I went with dual fuel again. Now, very happy I did. We did have to add a charcoal filter to the Microwave venting because it is now the only way to vent. After reading reviews of new Jenn Air stoves I was dis alusioned. Apparently they don't make them like they use to. So,the GE Cafe caught my eye. If I purchased another Jenn Air downdraft, I could not have a 2nd oven. That was a feature I have wanted for a long time. I also loved the look of the stove top. The stainless is bright as opposed to a black top. I love that I have 5 burners. Another feature that attracted me. This design uses the entire stove top, which gives far more cook top space. All my appliances are now stainless. I have mastered keeping stainless looking like new with very little effort. Also there are no seams on the stove top making it a breeze to clean. The new range far surpasses the old. Burners are very high performance. You boil with ease or simmer no hassle on even the high output burners. The oven appears to be far more spacious then my old range was. I was thrilled at the convection making the recipie conversion for me and the crusty bread result. It did require reading the manual to realize why it would only acheive a 350 temp as opposed to the 375 I was entering. I also used the time bake function which was right on correct. My range is so very new to me that I have not tried the small oven as of this date. Since I will make the most use of it as a warming oven for Holiday meals, I'm sure I will be pleased. Ther is not a self clean on the draw oven, so I do not plan on any messy cooking in that oven. I did not like the dual larger oven slide in model. Both ovens lost space for large capicity and the larger oven was on the bottom. Somehow I could not see myself happily removing a turkey from that level oven. I have not yet exoerienced the hot control knob issue. So after reading too many reviews. Talking too two many people. Racking my brain with pros & cons. Both myself and my husband agree that our new GE Cafe Range is a welcome addition and so far a really good choice. I also purchasaed the extended 10 year warrenty. Read to many reviews not to. It is amazing me with it's functions and gives that high end look that attracted me to it in the first place. Hoping for many years of use. After owning and using my GE Caf for about 1 year I just wanted to add my in use thoughts....Still pleased with performance. Will admit it took some getting use to. With hotter burners and high energy oven I had to make adjustments on my cooking times and approach. I actually burned stove top dishes and oven broiling. There is a learning adjustment. Also I must admit I am a bit disappointed in the bottom oven. It is actually a draw and it holds very little. I would say it is only useful as a warming draw. It is not an even heat as the larger oven and it will not bake small bake goods evenly.

Background you can skip We have, or I should say HAD, a microwave hood right over our cooktop. The builders of the home had taken some shortcuts and installed the hood WAY too close to the cooktop (dangerous) and they also had not installed any ducting. Natural result of such and environment is that the microhood died on a O/D of grease in the interior. So we set oput to find a decent range hood alternative that would hang at the right height over the cooktop and pretty quickly found that there was NO WAY that a microhood existed that would fit. Also, we found, we could not find replacement cabinets in the same style as the kicthen to create more room over the cooktop to retrofit a new microhood. Conclusion: buy another microwave that is not a hood AND find a range hood that would not exceed 7" in height so that it would not be too close to the cooktop. Secondly, find one with enough CFM to work well for our wokking and excessive cooking. Thridly, try and find all this WITH a recirculation option so that we would not have to try and put expensive ductwork into the home. Forth: have it fit our stainless look kicthen decor And lastly, get all this for under 400$. About the ZEPHYR AK1200 We shopped and shopped and always found something amiss: either not enough CFM, no recirculation option, too expensive or a combination thereoff. 2 brands did jump out at us for reasonable prices, good CFM and nice designs with low profiles: SUMMIT and ZEPHYR. Under 400$ it is almost impossible to find all this, mind you. The ZEPHYR AK1200 won for us because of a couple of reasons, that we consider pros. PROS: ) Price, price, price 0 Non-obtrusive design that cann fit into any decor. 0 All stainless outside, no plstic black panels etc as the Broans in this price range sport. the controls are in a plastic panel but under the hood. 0 Lighting with dimmers (2 step, not halogen), 2 lights, well aimed at cooktop and easily cleanable with glass covers 0 400 CFM!! For this price. Awesome 0 Large single blower/fan cage. 0 Cheap recirculation option: under 20$!! Very cheap. 0 Low sones at low speeds, does get noisy when blowing full speed but that is the price of most CFM 0 Again, can be installed ducted (3.25" by 10") or ductless 0 Easy clean dishwashed aluminum filters 0 Really low profile at 5.25". perfect for those that need under cabinet without excessive space available for larger hoods. 0 Timer feature on blower CONS: 0 Not as silent as hoped, but as silent as it gets in this pricerange. 0 Control panel un underside of hood, easy for wifey but I have to still feel around a bit. 0 Some mighht find the design not very inspiring. 0 Fan cage is plastic 0 Little on the loud side in all 3 settings CONCLUSION: The ZEPHYR's offer excellent designs at perfect prices. Not excessively expensive but with features that compare to >500$ hoods. If this is too bland, look at the ZEPHYR or SUMMIT more expensive lines. They get very modern but unfortunately too high profile for us. Even the Boran's we looked at did not compare, being a low end manufacturer. This stuff is Excellent price/quality.

Admittedly, I did not purchase this item on Amazon however, I am an avid customer and thought I would take this opportunity to try and help others. I purchased this range and so-called matching micro hood directly from Whirlpool (the manufacturer). I have friends who work there. Even at a very low price relative to retail, I regret the purchase and haven't even used them yet. Further, I develop products for a living. I am highly critical of poor design/quality and equally impressed by good design/quality. I am outspoken in either case. Stated simply, these products are poorly designed and made. They are an attempt to wrap a cost saving effort in a semi upscale wrapper. Epic fail. Just yesterday, both the range and micro hood were professionally installed. I was excited to get home and see the new appliances. I was really disappointed with what I found. Here's a short list for starters. Remember, they are both architect series II. 1. The handles on the range do not match the micro hood. 2. The LED displays do not match. The display in the range is way over driven and excessively bright. Looks terrible and cheap. 3. The cast iron grate on the right side is warped upwards in the middle nearly 1/4". I'll be requesting a replacement from Whirlpool. 4. The knob for the double burner sticks out further than the others. I requires an extra press inward but, could have easily been aligned. 5. There is a razor sharp edge around the oven door that will certainly cut someone if you happen to hit it while reaching to close the oven door. 6. The overall construction is really thin and flimsy. I could fold the warming drawer in half with my bare hands although, I would get cut. 7. Even the "Kitchenaid" logo plate is a different color on the range from the micro hood. Again, these are supposed to match. 8. When you turn on one burner the igniters for all 4 fire. A nice cacophony of sound. 9. There is no stop for high. So, you have to listen for the point after the igniters just shut off. So bad. 10. The leveling feet (small dia chrome bolt with brown plastic molded on the bottom) are visible from the front. Really guys? I'm sure there is more but, I just wanted to get started. I have no idea how the unit performs as I haven't used it yet. All I can say is that I could not be more disappointed in the overall design and quality. They seemingly took a cheap range and wrapped it in a thin layer of stainless. You can see where these cover parts are attached! It's just really cheap and cheesy. I've read, to my surprise, that the right rear and left front burners can barely boil water. If you look at the reviews on the Kitchenaid site, they are all glowing and do not mention this. I will update this review on the performance of the range after some use. But, in terms of design, quality, and value, do yourself a favor and look at other brands. Surely, someone must do better than this.

This oven is just bad, and horrible customer support makes the experience of owning it even worse. It was the most expensive appliance I purchased when I redid my kitchen two years ago. Most expensive by a fair penny. I expected to enjoy its high end features, despite not using the oven more than a few times per month. After the 3rd time I used the meat probe (just over a year after buying the oven), the plastic insulation split where it attaches to the probe, completely exposing the wires inside. As an electrical engineer, I have always taken care not to flex wires in ways that strain them, and this probe was no exception. It was just poorly made with no strain relief, and I suspect that material and dimensions are under-designed for their function. After a painfully long process of reaching the right person and explaining that a premium brand like Electrolux can't possibly expect a probe to fail after 3 uses, the representative finally agreed to provide a replacement rather than charging me the ridiculous amount that I have since blocked from my memory. However, they would not just ship me the probe. They insisted on having a service technician come out to inspect the broken probe and give me a replacement. I offered to send them the defective probe for them to inspect before sending the replacement, but they declined. Hence, I was forced to miss a morning of work and Electrolux was forced to pay a third party service provider to visit my home. Poor economics on both sides of the equation. Then, yesterday, I was cleaning the oven. It's now a bit over 2 years old, and I was running the self-clean for the 2nd time ever. About 1.5 hours into the cycle, I heard a big bang. The middle pane of glass in the oven door had shattered. When I called Electrolux, the representative explained that the glass exploded because the temperature got too hot for the glass. I explained that, since Electrolux designed the self-cleaning process (and doesn't enable users to set self-clean temperatures) and since Electrolux specifies the glass used in the oven door, the problem she described sounds like a design flaw on the part of Electrolux. The outcome of a lengthy call (with a little discussion interspersed with longer times on hold), Electrolux agreed to give me the $258 piece of replacement glass at no cost, but they will not provide a new door and they will not cover the cost of the service call to have a technician disassemble the door to replace the glass. I have gone back and done some searches on shattering glass in Electrolux ovens. This is not an uncommon phenomenon. Given the marginal increase in cost to use a more robust piece of glass inside the door, it is unconsionable that Electrolux has chosen to let even a small % of it's customers be exposed to this problem. I was cutting up pineapple with a very sharp knife when the big 'bang' occurred. I jumped, and easily could have cut myself. Beyond that, I have read about peope whose exploded glass was not contained within the door and could have caused other injury. For a product in this price range, it is absurd that the manufacturer does not spend a few more dollars (or SEK) on materials and add few more dollars (or SEK) to the price and just insure that its customers will not be exposed to this problem. I hope to be able to get the door repaired without some of the onerous delays I've read that other people experienced, and I hope to get many more years of use from this oven. However, I do not intend to ever run the self-clean again, and certainly do not expect to ever purchase another Electroux product. Note: I bought this from a retailer other than Amazon, but since most of my reviews are on Amazon, I am placing this one here, as well.

Update 11/17/2015 - Dropped this to a 1-star rating. Absolutely HATE cleaning this thing. Awful design by Whirlpool. In order to thoroughly clean this, I end up basically taking the entire top apart. Takes way too much time and doesn't stay very clean for long. My wife wants to replace it now... but these are costly! My wife and I purchased this cooktop as part an entire suite of Whirlpool Gold appliances for a kitchen remodel. We've been using this for about 2 years now. Pros: - The cooktop is beautiful (when it's clean...see Cons). It it made of quality materials and it looks like it. The knobs are not cheap plastic...when you pull them off for cleaning you can feel the weight and how solid they are. The grates are rock solid. - Plenty of space for cooking many items at once. - Fine control of the flames. And if the flame gets blown out, it will relight itself. - The recessed grates really give it a nice built-in appearance. But is also the cause of one of the Cons. Cons: - This is the sole reason for the 3-star rating. This appliance is VERY difficult to clean. And I believe the reason is due to the recessed grates. The way this cooktop is designed, the perimeter sits relatively flush with the counter, basically the thickness of the stainless steel (...maybe 1/8 inch or so) is above the level of the counter. Then where the grates start, it drops down about 1/2 to 3/4 inch (vertically) which allows the grates to be recessed. While this is visually very nice it makes it very difficult to clean. You're basically cleaning the bottom of a very shallow box. So as you're wiping the bottom of the cooktop, there's really no easy way to get the crumbs and stuff out of the cooking area because you can't wipe them "off". You're wiping them into a vertical wall or into a corner. I think if Whirlpool would have made the bottom into drip trays, or at least something that could be easily removed for cleaning, then it wouldn't be a problem. But the stainless steel bottom of the cooktop isn't removable without removing all of the burners and all the screws that hold it down. For an appliance that gets so much use, and one that typically is a bit messy, this is poor. - If water or liquid spill out onto the cooktop, there a good chance that the liquid can get past the seal and get to the igniters. If that happens, the igniters will not stop clicking even if the burner is lit. The solution is easy but time consuming. You have to remove all the burners and remove the bottom of the cooktop. Then find all the igniters and remove them and dry them off as well as dry the area they're in. This happened to me once. The igniters are in the front-right corner of the cooktop, so if you ever accidentally spill something there, wipe it up fast! Overall it's a well constructed appliance that looks great and works well. But it's not really well designed for quick, easy daily cleaning. And as such I find that it looks like it's dirty more often than it looks really clean. I'll probably take it all apart soon and give the bottom a good cleaning, but I shouldn't have to go to such extreme measures to clean an appliance. And I expect this will have to be somewhat of a regular task to keep it looking nice...maybe a few times a year. Thanks for reading.

After moving into my new place, I decided it was time to get rid of the Danby countertop dishwasher and get a standing, 18" portable. I'd always seen the countertop model as a stopgap, because most apartments I could afford didn't have a lot of countertop, but the Danby did well for me during the time I used it. I'd had an 18" Sears Kenmore portable about 20 years ago, and was planning on purchasing another Kenmore because I'd been quite pleased with that one. Then I received a $500 bonus from work, in the form of an Amazon gift certificate, so I decided to give up on Sears and see what I could get through Amazon. I found this Frigidaire, which seemed to have reasonably good reviews at other sites, and ordered it. On first blush, it was a lot like my old Kenmore, except the upper rack had an additional, fold-down shelf for small glasses. Once I started using it, tho, I was disabused of the hope that it would be an improvement over my old Kenmore, or even over the Danby. Its drawbacks are: 1. It is loud. Keep you awake at night loud. 2. The racks are so poorly designed that I can't stack bowls in the lower level unless I leave 2-3 empty 'slots' between them. The upper rack has enough space to accommodate bowls, but not enough prongs to hold them in place so the spray can hit them properly. Furthermore, the extra level on the upper rack is useless since even the manual warns you not to block the spray by stacking items immediately above one another. This means that you have only one level there, rather than the 2 levels you initially anticipate. 3. The lower level design may be intentional, because the water spray is underpowered. If I stack dishes too closely, the spray doesn't reach between them, and the top half of the plate or bowl remains dirty. 4. The rack problem combined with the low pressure water spray to make it impossible to fully load the dishwasher. I can do about 3 place settings in a load - just about the same amount I could do with the much smaller Danby. 5. The water hoses and electrical cord depend on friction to hold them in place, meaning that I have to stuff them back through a small opening into their storage space after using the unit. Dragging the hoses & cord back out causes them to scrape against the opening, and it looks to me like that will shorten the life of the rubber/plastic coverings. I've decided to leave the electric cord hanging out, but the water hoses need to be stored to keep them from dripping. My old Kenmore had internal reels for these two items, making it easy to pull them out and put them back. The one plus that the Frigidaire has over either of my two previous units is that it does have a "Hi Temp" setting, which heats the water during the cycle. This is important since the water in the building pipes doesn't stay hot between the stages of the cycle. The Hi Temp setting uses more energy, but does get the dishes cleaner than they were when I didn't use it. All in all, I wouldn't purchase this product again. I do prefer having an automatic dishwasher to doing all the dishes by hand, so when I purchase my next dishwasher, I'm going to take bowls and plates with me to test the rack design and, if it's a portable, I'll look for a better cord management mechanism. The other problems probably can't be assessed in a showroom, so I'll just have to hope someone else writes a detailed review of the product I'm interested in before I purchase it.

We purchased this refrigerator from a local appliance store in October 2010 for $1700. It is very large and because of the black color, I was a bit worried that it would dominate the kitchen but I'm used to it now and with my black and white tile floor and dark soapstone counters I find that it blends in nicely. So far we find that it is very quiet and efficient with a nice arrangement of customizable shelves for storage. I tend to use one crisper for vegetables and salad ingredients and the other crisper for storing tubs of miso, cream cheese, butter and so forth. I like that the gallon storage compartments in the door have a removable grey liner that you can take out and wash individually when spills occur. The large deli tray at the bottom of the fridge is handy but you need to open both doors to pull it out -- not a problem -- just something to be aware of. I usually store apples on one side and meat on the other side of the deli tray. The right hand side door closes easily with just its own weight but the left hand door has the center seal strip and if you close it AFTER you close the right hand door and if you don't use just a little bit of extra force, it doesn't close all the way. I've accidentally left the door slightly open on a number of occasions. That's why the door alarm comes in handy -- it will beep to let you know that the door isn't shut properly. I wish that it beeped sooner because conceivably you could get your lunch out of the fridge and rush off to work before the door alarm activates and then your fridge would be all day with the door slightly open. This hasn't happened to us as far as I know as there is usually someone around in our household to notice the door alarm is going off. Over time I'm sure it will become automatic for me to just close the left hand door with a bit more force. The temp low setting is also nice --- one one occasion when I had done a lot of cooking, the hot food warmed up the refrigerator and caused the temp alarm to activate. It took us a while to figure out where the alarm was coming from and once I realized what it was, I hit the Max Cool button to help restore the temperature to the proper level. I like that the controls are in the front of the fridge and also the light bulbs are easy to change. The light is a regular appliance bulb but since it's only on when the doors are open, it doesn't matter that it's not a low energy bulb. Our contractor hooked up the water supply to a reverse osmosis filter in our basement and I believe he bypassed the filter in the refrigerator. So far the water dispenser works fine, it is tucked away near the hinges of the left hand side door --- the ice maker in the bottom freezer also works well and we always have a big old supply of ice --- far more than we could ever use even in the summer. The freezer drawer is very roomy but once again you need to be very mindful about shutting it--- it has a self closing mechanism but one needs to give it a generous push to ensure good closure. I like the shiny black doors --- I've read that the surface scratches easily and so have resolved not to clutter up the doors with fridge magnets. I don't notice that the doors get particularly marked up and the few fingerprints that have shown up on it wipe off easily. One advantage of the shiny doors is that you can see your reflection in them so it makes you think twice about getting out that snack when you can see how wide your hips look! We find there is more than enough room in the fridge for the two adults and one part time adult living in our household. I haven't really had the fridge long enough to need to clean it or for problems to develop but if I do notice any problems I will come back and update this review.

TL;DR: Whirlpool/Maytag service is TERRIBLE. If you buy their products - buy a backup fridge! You'll need it! Let me be clear on this up front - the fridge is nice, lots of space. This is NOT at all a review of the seller (it was purchased brick and mortar store). The service is another story. Customer service is courteous BUT getting anything done is a HUGE pain in the rear. My wife and I bought this fridge from Home Depot in January this year (2011). We got it home let it sit for 24 hours before plugging it in. One week later we noticed ice cream not being very firm, few days later everything was thawed out. I contacted Maytag service and began the nightmare of service: First service appointment. Sears repair comes out to troubleshoot the fridge - tells me the compressor is bad and needs to be replaced. The earliest they can get me in is 7 DAYS later, mind you I'm already 3 DAYS without a fridge. Second service appointment. Return of Sears repairman. The compressor is replaced, dye dryer is installed (this is an important detail - it allows other techs to use a UV light to spot any leaks). Fridge runs great, nice and cold, case closed.... Not so fast! About 3 months go by and the same problem crops up - we start to notice in the freezer. I contact Maytag service right away. I explain to them the situation, I ask for a replacement fridge at this point. They outright refuse to replace it and insist on having ANOTHER tech come out to troubleshoot the problem so they can get a "second opinion". The service rep conferences me in with the local Direct Maytag store. I specifically tell them to bring a UV light that the fridge has a dye dryer on it; to which I'm told "they'll make a note of it." Third service appointment. Direct Maytag service shows up 4 days later. I kid you not, the tech comes ONLY WITH A MULTIMETER, no tools other than screwdriver!!! WTF?!?! Tells me that the compressor is bad - no kidding. < sarcasm >I couldn't tell this by the fact my fridge was warmer than the outside air temp!< /sarcasm > He tells me they have to send someone else with the tools to look at it! I'm going on 4 days of having to take off work now - because they'll always be there between 8am - 5pm! Fourth service appointment. Direct Maytag shows up again - this time within 2 days. Again, no UV light. Tech says he found a leak (not sure how) in the original work that Sears did - he would like to "patch it". He refills the fridge with coolant (05/18/11). Come yesterday (06/06/11) the fridge is warm again. I called Maytag AGAIN. Spoke with someone who told me they can't authorize a replacement fridge until they talk to Direct Maytag (who called them and spoke with them on the last repair in May - while I stood there). Be warned... Maytag was a acquired by Whirlpool! I would recommend staying away from any of the following companies.. they all use the same parts and service teams: Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Brastemp, Consul, Bauknecht and Gladiator I can imagine that the service would be right on par with this nightmare!

Does one or more of your heating burner/elements not heat up unless you jiggle it just right? If so, then you might want to consider replacing the receptacle, and maybe the burner too. Pull out the burner and look at the ends where they go into the receptacle. If they aren't nice and smooth, then you probably want to replace the burner AND the receptacle. (Especially if the ends look rough and partly melted.) It is super simple to replace the burner on an electric range. Just pull out the old one and plug the new one back in. These may not be exactly the same as the original ones, but they work fine. What about the receptacle, is that easy too? Yes, it's an easy job. The receptacle kits are $5-$10 here on Amazon. Let's walk through how to replace a receptacle and get your stove working like new. Pull out the stove. ++++ Unplug it from the wall. ++++ Optional: Clean 20 years of crumbs and forgotten toys...) Take off the burners and drip trays. Lift up the range and you can see the old receptacles. Note that the wires go toward the temperature knobs for each burner. (On your stove, this may be toward the back or toward the front.) Use the screwdriver to remove any access panel(s) so you can follow the wires. Put the screws in a bowl so you don't lose them. Now you can see where the wires have push-connects near the temperature knobs. Now that you've seen the whole project, you can start to replace the receptacles one at a time. See how the old receptacles are held on by a screw on the bracket? Unscrew the one you are going to replace. Now use the same screw to put the new bracket on. (The receptacle kit comes with new brackets, so you might as well use them.) Now look at the old receptacle hanging down. ++++ Double check to make sure you unplugged the stove, and that none of the curious children has plugged it back in... ++++ Use wire cutters (or even kitchen scissors) to cut the old wires away from the old receptacle. Pull/fish those wires out toward the knobs, but leave them connected at the knobs for now. Now look at the receptacle kit. The receptacle and the wires are probably separate when you get them, but the wires simply push into the back of the receptacle with a click. It might take a bit of force to push them in, but they will go in if they are aligned correctly. Snap the new, wired receptacle into the new bracket that you've installed on the stove. Put the new wires where the old ones went, following the same path. You want any extra wire to be behind the panel, not under your stovetop. Unplug the old wires and plug the new ones in where they were. (It doesn't matter which wire goes to which connector.) Optional: You can coil up the extra wire and use tape/rubber band/zip-tie to keep it neat. Tip: If this is the last receptacle replacement, you can spiral-wrap the wires around the rest of the wires to keep them neat. That way you won't be tempted to use zip ties or tape under your stove top. Re-assemble the access panels, drip trays etc... You'll probably have to spread the new bracket apart a bit to get the burner into the new receptacle, and use a bit more force than you are used to with the old set up. It's new and tight. Now you can plug the stove back in, and slide it back into place. Test it. Does it work? Of course it does! Congratulations! You just saved yourself $$$ you would have spent on an appliance repair man!

I have a 7 year old Samsung 33" bottom freezer, french door refrigerator, model Samsung RF217ACPN. This gist of this post is to tell you that you need to swap out three (3) parts total if you are experiencing ice build up in the back of your Samsung Refrigerator possibly along with water in or under the lower drawers. As I understand it, nearly all the Samsung refrigerators built in the last decade use the same cooling and defrost mechanism. Some models do not have a manual defrost mode, and you will need to unplug the refrigerator to actually melt the ice build up. About a year ago, the vegetable crisper drawers began to fill with water. This indicated a drain freezing problem which necessitates the thawing and replacement of an improved drain heater extension part "SAMSUNG CLIP DRAIN EVAPORATOR REFOEM Original Part: DA61-06796A (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008KFG9NO)" This has a longer drain extension that takes heat from the heating element and extends it into the drain hole to prevent icing. Samsung realized their original clip was deficient and released this improved retrofit. This is not a question of if it will happen to you, it is a question of WHEN. I noticed that the rear of the refrigerator also began to show ice from some of the holes. Normally a 48 hour defrost takes care of it but eventually it would build up to the point that the spinning fan starts to hit it. This icing indicates a problem with your defrost system. This item is the "Samsung Thermo Bimetal - Prote Part # Da47-00243K (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001ICO2H6)" is one of two thermo sensors that you should replace. This black wire sensor senses the high temperature heating conditions of the heating element and stop it before it melts your fridge. This bimetal sensor is a more likely culprit to go bad as the resistance degrades as it ages with heat cycles eventually preventing your heating element from heating to any useful level to actually melt the frost on the coils. The black sensor may need to be spliced into the existing wiring, so be prepared if your model requires simple wire splicing. Yes the black high temp sensor does go bad, but there is another sensor that also goes bad that you should replace at this same time. The item "Samsung DA32-00006S Refrigerator Defrost Sensor (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KGPERM)" is the second of two thermostat sensors for the defrost system. The other yellow cord sensor senses the low temperature frost conditions on the coils. You should move the yellow defrost sensor from the tube on the right to the more central tube on the left. This helps with sensing the ice that grows from the middle outwards. You should replace BOTH defrost sensors as a pair to ensure that you don't revisit the problem in a month. One last tip is for you to extend the front floor riser pegs and lift the front wheels off the ground. This will ensure that the defrost liquid drains properly towards the rear. Not all kitchen floors are level and if it is slanted forward even a little bit, the water can leak out the front vents and frost over after the defrost cycle. So far, I have been frost free and the crisper drawers are dry for months. Don't just replace this one part, you need to replace three parts in total. All the components are relatively inexpensive. Good luck in fixing your poorly designed and defective Samsung refrigerator. I wanted to share this so that others will not have to go through the months-long nightmare of addressing this issue piece by piece.

I have a 7 year old Samsung 33" bottom freezer, french door refrigerator, model Samsung RF217ACPN. This gist of this post is to tell you that you need to swap out three (3) parts total if you are experiencing ice build up in the back of your Samsung Refrigerator possible along with water in or under the lower drawers. As I understand it, nearly all the Samsung refrigerators built in the last decade use the same cooling and defrost mechanism. Some models do not have a manual defrost mode, and you will need to unplug the refrigerator to actually melt the ice build up. About a year ago, the vegetable crisper drawers began to fill with water. This indicated a drain freezing problem which necessitates the thawing and replacement of an improved drain heater extension part "SAMSUNG CLIP DRAIN EVAPORATOR REFOEM Original Part: DA61-06796A (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008KFG9NO)" This has a longer drain extension that takes heat from the heating element and extends it into the drain hole to prevent icing. Samsung realized their original clip was deficient and released this improved retrofit. This is not a question of if it will happen to you, it is a question of WHEN. I noticed that the rear of the refrigerator also began to show ice from some of the holes. Normally a 48 hour defrost takes care of it but eventually it would build up to the point that the spinning fan starts to hit it. This icing indicates a problem with your defrost system. This item "Samsung DA32-00006S Refrigerator Defrost Sensor (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KGPERM)" is one of two thermostat sensors for the defrost system. This yellow cord sensor senses the low temperature frost conditions on the coils. You should move the yellow defrost sensor from the tube on the right to the more central tube on the left. This helps with sensing the ice that grows from the middle outwards. Yes the yellow low temp sensor does go bad, but there is another sensor that also goes bad that you should replace. You should also get the "Samsung Thermo Bimetal - Prote Part # Da47-00243K (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001ICO2H6)". The black wire sensor senses the high temperature heating conditions of the heating element and stop it before it melts your fridge. This bimetal sensor is a more likely culprit to go bad as the resistance degrades as it ages with heat cycles eventually preventing your heating element from heating to any useful level to actually melt the frost on the coils. You should replace BOTH defrost sensors as a pair to ensure that you don't revisit the problem in a month. The black sensor may need to be spliced into the existing wiring, so be prepared if your model requires simple wire splicing. One last tip is for you to extend the front floor riser pegs and lift the front wheels off the ground. This will ensure that the defrost liquid drains properly towards the rear. Not all kitchen floors are level and if it is slanted forward even a little bit, the water can leak out the front vents and frost over after the defrost cycle. So far, I have been frost free and the crisper drawers are dry for months. Don't just replace this one part, you need to replace three parts in total. All the components are relatively inexpensive. Good luck in fixing your poorly designed and defective Samsung refrigerator. I wanted to share this so that others will not have to go through the months-long nightmare of addressing this issue piece by piece.

This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System Weve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall. We knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer. I had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is! I did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime! Like with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works. The pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. Disconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. - CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube! - My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race. - I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw. - As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster. - The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue. NOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside. - INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint. - OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!

I didn't really need a freezer. I just wanted to see if sunlight could really be turned into ice. My friend talked me into getting some solar panels from Harbor Freight and I wasn't excited about using them to run lights or radios or some other pedestrian thing. Part of the attraction of solar is that if the power goes out you still have some electricity. We don't lose power very often in central Florida, but we did have a hurricane a few years ago that actually put the grid down for several days, not just several hours. It was then that I realized the most precious thing when you lose the grid is cooling, not heating. Anyone who does camping likely has enough equipment and fuel to cook food for days with what you normally have on hand. The rub is cooling and losing all the food in the fridge. The milk, the eggs. Ice was the first thing that sold out in our grocery stores and it didn't get replenished. Thus, I thought a freezer would be an awesome thing to have in an emergency. You could make your own ice and have lots of frozen food of every variety. Mostly though, I just thought it would be cool beyond belief to run a freezer off solar panels. There aren't many choices out there, so I ordered this Sunzdanzer. 5.8 cubic feet is plenty of room. I have run this thing for a couple of years now, and I am impressed. You can expect temperatures to be stable at about 6 degrees Fahrenheit. That's cold enough to freeze anything but ice cream. I think ice cream prefers to be about 0 degrees, so ice cream in this unit will unfortunately be a little too soft. But everything else is great. Popsicles, Lean Cuisines, steak, fish, bread, frozen vegetables all are frozen hard and stay that way. Plus, this unit is extremely quiet. When it is running, the most you can hear is a faint trickling of water sound. Never a motor sound. The engineering is very impressive. One more caveat about the temperature. My results are based on the freezer being indoors with normal indoor temps. If you have this unit out in the garage with super hot temps (like my garage) I have no idea what the freezer would be capable of, but it would be tougher on the unit. The unit came very well packaged and was delivered by an 18 wheeler tractor trailer from New Mexico. It wasn't very heavy either. The unit runs only off 12 volt or 24 volt, so it is totally engineered for solar which is great. I will offer a couple of nit picks, but don't take them to heart, they are small things really. First, there are three baskets that can lay just inside the top of the unit giving you the ability to compartmentalize a bit. You end up with an arrangement like a box of chocolates -- you can remove the top layer of items by removing the baskets and get to the bottom layer of food pretty quickly. What I didn't like was the little handle brackets that hang onto the top ledge of the freezer interior -- the brackets slip out of position and collapse making you reset them. That is chronic but just an annoyance. The other is the light bulb inside. It is a 24 v bulb and is rather dim when used with 12 v. And you can't find a 12 v. bulb like this anywhere - even the manufacturer doesn't have them. The resulting interior light is enough, but only barely. Overall, though I am very impressed with this freezer and recommend it to you.

Don't... buy a Bosch induction cooktop until Bosch explains the conditions that cause the cooktop to automatically shut off at some arbitrary time during use. This applies to the 500-series, 800-series and Flexinduction models. I discovered this can happen while reading manuals during my web research on induction cooktops. Here are the respective web pages and page numbers advising of this stipulation in each model's "Use and Care" manual: 500-series: http://i.sears.com/s/d/pdf/mp-tc/spinpdf/spin_prod_975580612 (page 14) 800-series: http://i.sears.com/s/d/pdf/mp-tc/spinpdf/spin_prod_975587312 (page 16) Flexinduction: http://www.goedekers.com/assets/PDF/Bosch/bosch-nitp666suc-use-and-care-manual.pdf (page 15) I called Bosch Customer Support 5 times over a two-week period and each time talked to a different rep including a Support Supervisor on my last call. I asked for an explanation about the specific circumstances under which the cooktop would shut off. I cited several examples of cooking situations where one would not want the cooktop to "just turn off" on its own. On my last 4 conversations with Bosch support reps, I was told they would research the issue and "get back to me with an answer". Well, they didn't get back to me, and I still don't have an answer. The support people don't know, and further, they told me they don't communicate with Bosch engineering (who certainly would know the answer). How strange is that? But I was copied on an email from a Bosch Senior Support Representative to "an unknown at Bosch". The email contained the following exact wording from one of the manuals: "Automatic time limitation: If the element is used for prolonged periods of time without changes in the settings being made, the automatic time limitation function is triggered. The element stops heating. "F8" and the residual heat indicator "H/h" flash alternately in the display. The indicator goes out when any symbol is pressed. The element can now be reset. When the automatic time limitation is activated depends on the selected heat level (from 1 to 10 hours)." The email also briefly revealed that "a customer" (me) wanted to know the conditions that can cause the cooktop to shut off, but didn't offer any relevant explanations. Whatsoever! I was told by a couple of support reps that the cooktop turns off for "safety reasons" but no other details were offered. Safety reasons? Really? Does that mean the cooktops are nearing a dangerous state? Are these Bosch cooktops the only cooktops ever made that turn off "for safety reasons" Maybe, but if so, I'm not aware of any others. I hope I am not alone in thinking Bosch needs to inform prospective customers exactly what conditions can trigger these (expensive) cooktops to shut off? Or better yet, just make a cooktop that doesn't arbitrarily turn off. Bottom line is, buy one of these Bosch cooktops only if you are willing to risk it automatically turning off sometime between "1 and 10 hours". Or, if you'd be content to just stand watch over it for 4-5 hours to be sure it stays on while you're cooking a corned-beef. Bosch engineers take notice!

I've been using my Bosch Vision 500 washer/dryer combo for about six months and am very favorably impressed. I have them stacked vertically with the pull-out laundry shelf in between the two units. The Bosch Vision is different from other machines I've owned in the past in terms of cycle selection, temperatures and options so it does pay to familiarize yourself with the manual before use but it's not difficult to get up to speed in 15 or 20 minutes of reading. I do agree with one reviewer who said the handwash cycle isn't great for removing stains or deep cleaning. It is a very short cycle designed to keep delicate clothes in top condition and at this it succeeds, just don't expect deep cleaning power. I've found I can safely wash all my handwash woolens on the cold/cottons cycle with excellent results - both in terms of effective cleaning and also being gentle in terms of not causing stretching or piling of delicate fabrics. I do generally run most cycles with an extra rinse but this machine cleans with incredibly small amounts of water, even with the additional rinse the total water consumption is very low. I'm amazed at how little detergent is necessary to achieve a bright, fresh appearance and feel to all my clothes. The manual warns about using too much detergent and I think other users either do not read the manual or don't understand how little is needed for optimal cleaning. I use Method liquid detergent which says four pumps is for one load. I've experimented with different amounts of detergent and learned that most small to moderate sized loads of normal soiling get super clean with only one pump of detergent. For more heavily soiled loads with oils, greases, sweat and other contaminants that break down the detergent I've found two pumps provides better (excellent) results. I might use three or four pumps but only for large loads of clothes worn by a deep fry cook or mechanics overalls full of oil residues. And at 4.4 cubic ft. you can do some rally large loads. I washed a load of really absorbent thick white cotton bath towels that completely filled the drum using two pumps of Method detergent and one ounce or regular bleach and they came out smelling fresh, looking bright and super soft and fluffy. What really impressed me though was how solid the machine felt/sounded when agitating and spinning such a large and heavy load. Smooth and as close to silent as one could hope for - the sound barely changes from small to huge loads and I've the machines have never shaken or vibrated regardless of load size. I don't understand the problem some have reported with mold. The only precaution I've taken is to leave the washer door slightly ajar for one day after I've done laundry (then I close it if I want) and there has been nothing but fresh, clean smells. I can't say that about my first front-load laundry pair (Maytag Neptune). They molded within the first month or so and the smell never went away even after I had the redesigned seal installed. And the Neptune never got my clothes completely clean. The Bosch manual says too much detergent can cause mold and I think this is the likely culprit for those who have reported a moldy smell from the Bosch. Only use a small amount of detergent, less than you think will work. You will save a lot on detergent costs and have clothes that are cleaner and fresher than ever. This is a difficult concept to come to terms with for people who are accustomed to water-guzzling top loaders.

If you buy any Vent-a-hood with this terrible Magic Lung system you will be shocked the first time you have to clean it. You're probably used to removing a mesh or screen to clean your hood, right? Maybe even disposing of one and replacing it with a clean one? Well, forget all that because you are going to be dealing with the most difficult household task you can possibly imagine. First, you'll remove a large metal shield that will be covered with grease/oil on the inside and drip it over to your sink so you can soak at least part of it in ammonia and hot water. You'll discover then that you should have covered all your counters, floor and cooktop with towels or something. Next, you'll have to undo slimy "suitcase latches" on either side of this really heavy metal box that goes over the blower wheels. It will be drenched in grease/oil even if you, like me, try never to fry or saute food in the house. It will not fit in a double sink so now you can carry it dripping to your laundry room and put it in a big/deep sink and run gallons of boiling water. Pour in the ammonia and let it soak while you proceed to: Step three: the impossible removal of the blower wheels using a 1/8" hex wrench threaded through one of the fins of the wheels. It will not turn, so slip across your tile to the garage and get a heavy duty pair of pliers and try to use that for leverage. No luck. Try again. No luck. Try again. Fail. Now, you'll have to figure out how to clean the thing in place while you lean over your cooktop (and I needed a stepladder), bumping your head on the hood surround and trying to work paper towels on a butter knife through the fins which are concave and curved away from you and very closely spaced together while it is dripping ammonia on you and everything else... Forget it! After 45 mins you'll give up and leave some of the grease there. Go back and get the heavy box and realize that all the ammonia did was turn the grease white, so now you have to clean it with paper towels and more ammonia, gassing yourself in the process, cutting your fingers on the raw metal edges, running to get small utensils to work your towels into the little crevices and completely messing up your laundry area and the sink. Rinse this metal box and drag it dripping to the kitchen where you have to hoist it up and over the blower wheels and somehow manage to hold it there while you use one hand to find, connect and close each suitcase latch. Whew! Now get the shield out of the kitchen sink and clean it with paper towels and put it on, trying to make the screw holes match up so you can screw it down. I have built 6 custom homes and totally remodeled 3 others and have never, ever hated an appliance or other product as much as I detest this one. Yes, it appears to have a strong updraft (carrying all those little oil beads into the ghastly magic lung) and yes it is a little quieter than a jet engine, and YES it was very expensive, but it is a horrible, horrible torture device to clean and maintain. You should do it every few months but you will hate it so much you'll be lucky to get it done once a year, making the job even worse. Maybe restaurant kitchens can hire people do things like this (strong, tall people) but the average homeowner should not have to completely disassemble (or try to disassemble) gigantic parts just to clean their stove hood. This should not be a residential product. Buy any magic lung Vent-a-hood at your own risk. You've been warned.

I purchased the Maytag MHW7000XW/MGD7000XW washer gas dryer pair for my mother. Her aging 18+ year old and well used Kenmore top loader washer and gas dryer had given very good service but it was reaching the end of its useful life. We have always had good luck with appliances barring the Kenmore name. Mothers 20+ year old uneven and erratic oven had ruined its last meal over the holidays so she asked me to find her a new one. I found the Kenmore gas convention that net her and my criteria. So far she has had it for 2 months now it works very well. Mother is a technophobe and doesn't like buttons but to get the features she wanted that is what she had to get. It works extremely well. I have gotten a few tech support calls but she is getting used to it. So while we were in the store getting the new stove purchase written up I was wondering around looking at the other appliances washer/dryers and dishwashers. Having replaced her at the time 15+ year old fridge 2 years ago the washer promo displays energy and water savings claim caught me eye. Mother is on private well and septic. I did my research not a lot out on this model yet but the little was positive. I downloaded the PDF of the manuals and liked what I saw. Mother has had it for almost a month now and it works very well. I spend most of my days off at my parents so I do my laundry there most of the time. It has buttons so more tech support but not as confusing as the oven. I made a little cheat sheet for her. Lot of settings that you will only use rarely but nice to have options. The fresh hold feature uses a fan and periodically rotates the load to keep it from getting that musty smell is nice. When I get there after work its usually late. I eat dinner throw a load in and go to bed. So far we are using 3/4 to 1/2 less soap, oxiclean and softener etc savings there. It uses much less water and the clothes come out much cleaner than the old top loader useing much less soap. The pedestals are a must unless you are very short or going for a European style under counter install. the 7000 series has a few improvements over the cheaper 6000 series the oxiclean/color safe bleach compartment drum light in washer a few extra options. The washer is much quieter and the max extract gets out so much water that drying is about half the time over the old equipment. The old large capacity washer could only handle a max of 7 pairs of blue jeans at a time this washer has taken 10 pair in stride. Wash times are longer than the old top loader and the time remaining is only a random guess. My parents have pets cats and dogs. The dog tuns the end of the bed spread black in no time and it came clean. The allergen/steam sanitize feature is a plus with pets around. UPDATE: Its been over a year and works very well Gets clothes cleaner than the old top loader with less soap & oyx does take longer and the remaining time display lies. But it adapts the cycle as it goes uses far less water the dryer gets clothes dry faster than the old one partly a function of the washers max extract feature. The steam option is nice but rarely used the dryers static reduce is nice in the winter. My mother really likes the pedestals the raised height is much easier on her back and my father has even successfully used them.

I have a stacked LG washer/dryer on tile on my first floor. The vibration during the washer spin cycle transfers to the floor and walls of my entire home in fact it transfers all the way up to the second floor, making the window in my master bedroom rattle loudly in its frame. Aside from this annoyance, I worry that it can also cause damage to the studs and floor joists of my home. So, I've been researching and working on a solution for about the past year. First, I bought the Vibrafix rubber feet sold on Amazon. If you're on this page, you've probably already seen it it has a lot of positive reviews. The Vibrafix feet reduced the vibration upstairs slightly, but the window still rattled audibly. Second, I re-leveled the washer. The machine was technically already level, but I figured the vibration might be reduced if I improved the leveling further. I didn't notice much of a change after leveling. Third, I bought this Rubber-Cal Anti-Vibration Washing Machine Mat. I really wanted it to work it had a handful of 100% positive reviews, including one which described a stacked washer/dryer on tile just like mine. At first I was hesitant since it was so expensive ($93 for a rubber mat??), but I figured that it was a small price to pay to protect my home and that perhaps it was made of a better, more durable material than other rubber mats. The pros of this mat are that it is made of heavy duty rubber that won't shed. It is very dense and heavy, and it will probably last a very long time. The mat was not as elastic as I expected (I can barely cause any depression when I pinch it between thumb and index finger), but its weight made me hopeful I thought that the high mass alone might absorb and dissipate most of the vibration. There is a strong "new tire" odor, but I followed the advice of other reviewrs and was able to eliminate it by letting the mat sit outside for about 6 hours. I cut the mat to size using a measuring tape, metal straight edge, chalk and a box cutter/utility knife. Like another reviewer noted, scissors will not do the job. You need to slice the mat along the same line (against a straight edge) over and over again, in layers, until the knife finally breaks through to the other side. If you use this technique, your cut will be perfectly clean and straight. Getting the mat under the stacked washer/dryer was a bit of a pain. You can't just fold the mat, tilt the machine to one side, slide the folded mat under the raised legs, and then tilt the other way to unfold. The mat is so thick that it doesn't fold flat enough to fit under a tilted machine. You really need a dolly or some serious human lifting power, depending on the space your washer/dryer is in. I just did my first wash load on the new mat and was utterly disappointed. Somehow, the mat has made the spin cycle vibration worse. I'm not sure how this is physically possible, but the ears and eyes don't lie after all of the expense, cutting and lifting, my upstairs master bedroom window actually vibrates worse now. And the railing on my stairs has now started vibrating with the spin cycle. I plan on troubleshooting and experimenting further, but it's hard to articulate here just how disappointed I am. I took a risk on a product that had few reviews and I paid the price. I've lost about $90 on a sub-par product that I can't return because I've already cut it up. In fact, unlike other anti-vibration mats on Amazon that are pre-cut to the footprint of a typical American washer/dryer, the strange, large size of this mat makes me wonder if the seller designed it this way in order to prevent returns.

I bought this freezer last summer and it started acting up before the warranty ran out. Called the home improvement store that I bought it from and they stated that I needed to "Call the manufacturer". Turns out HAIER also manufactures Holiday. Called them and told them what happened and they did not dispute the claim whatsoever, This was May 15th, 2013. You would think it would be settled by now (July 5th, 2013), right? Wrong!! (If you knew me, you would know that I have been on the phone with these folks constantly and this is a summary of the "best" of the interactions I have had. And these conversations were initiated by my phone calls, they only called me if I demanded an update; otherwise, they just left me hanging and wondering.) Between "We are looking for a repairman in your area"-apparently there are none and "We are still looking for a repairman"-apparently there still are none to "We can't find a repairman so we are sending it up to account executives to see what they want to do with it"- insert crickets chirping here because for 2 WEEKS they had no answer on what they were going to do! Well, they come back with "We can't find a repairman so we are going to replace it"-cool right? Not cool-first I am told that it is summer (no duh!!) and they are busy replacing ACs under warranty and that is more important than my freezer, yes the chick on the phone actually told me that! Then they finally decide they don't have anymore freezers like mine in the warehouse. So throughout this whole process, I told them over and over "Just send me a check and I will go to the store and buy the one on the floor there." So then they decide they are going to wait and see if one "shows up" on their inventory. I assume they were trying to round one up from who knows where. Finally, they decide to replace it with a comparable model, if I accept that substitution, which I did a week ago and guess what? I got a call (that I requested) from the latest account handler, there has been a different one for every one of these interactions! And she stated that she sent my approval up last week with no answer from the person who can authorize the shipment of the new freezer. Still not authorized. So I calmly and clearly told the latest girl on the phone that no slam on her and I appreciated what she had done but it was no longer a case of IF I was giving HAIER a bad review ANYWHERE I can (Better Business Bureau, Facebook, Word of Mouth, etc) but was now a case of just HOW bad it was going to be and if they had just mailed me a check like I suggested OVER A MONTH AGO, I would have nothing but good things to say about them instead of all of this bad. She calls me back in 2 minutes-2 MINUTES, and it has been authorized and that was Wednesday and it HAS NOT SHIPPED, but latest word is we will have it by July 12 (update, delivery date changed to July 16th). Yea, right I will believe it when I see it in my yard. MORAL of this story-Don't buy HAIER or Holiday freezers, ACs, etc unless you have plenty of time and patience to give away!

I found this product on Amazon but ended up having to buy it direct through Global appliances/Rangehoodstore.com because I wanted the chimney cut to a custom length of 20" due to a short ceiling. When placing the order, I requested that they send everything that was needed for a ductless installation since this is part of a remodel and there's no way to duct this hood without significant cost. They told me I had everything I'd need. I researched ductless installations and watched installation videos so I'd be prepared. When I got the hood, I realized they didn't send me an air deflector to direct the hot, humid air out of the grilles in the top of the chimney. I checked their installation manual and, sure enough, the manual stated that I should use the air deflector to direct the air out of the grilles in the chimney. So, I emailed them to say I was missing parts. They claimed I didn't need that part. Every installation video and manual (including theirs) that I looked at for ductless hoods use an air deflector to make sure the hot, humid air goes out the grilles and not up into the ceiling. I quickly realized why they didn't tell me to purchase the deflector - when they cut the chimney down to 20", they did so in a way that put the grilles below the blower so there would be no way to use the air deflector to push the air out of the grilles. I contacted them and explained that I was very concerned that hot, humid air would be going right up into our floor joists (your ceiling will have a hole in it when you install a hood - the hole is for the wiring to come down and for a support system to be installed to hold the weight of the hood). I've read on numerous sites that no one should ever vent the air from a kitchen hood up into the floor joists or attic. If the air is greasy (if we forget to change the carbon filter soon enough) it could be a fire hazard. Humid air in the floor joists could lead to mold, etc. I asked to exchange the chimney for one with the grilles at the top like in the drawing they show here on Amazon so I could use the air deflector shown in the installation manual. By the way, the installation manual stated that if the directions for air exhaust were not followed, the company would not be responsible for any damage so I really wanted to follow the installation instructions so as not to void my warranty. They, initially, agreed then emailed me at the last minute to say I'd be fine as is. I haven't heard from them since. So, basically, they left us with a hood that does NOT look like the drawing you see here on Amazon that has the grilles on the top so the air deflector can push the air out. So, beware if you need this hood custom cut. I asked them if NT Air knew they were telling buyers to ignore the installation instructions and let air go up into their ceilings. They assured me (insert laughter here) the hot air would not go up into our ceiling but sink down to the grills and I'd have no warranty worries. The moral of the story is, once they have your money, they'd don't seem to care how well the product will work for you. So, if you need the chimney height modified, buy elsewhere.

Our house was built late 90s with GE profile appliances. Being conscious about environment, we follow a rule of not replacing an appliance until it is broken. Recently, our dishwasher went broken with very bad noise coming out of motor. The problem is we have an opening of 33" and the dishwasher is about 3/8" dropped below the floor. So, even though there is enough height inside, it is impossible to put most dishwashers (over 33") in without opening the counter. We looked at all the models of GE, Maytag, LG, Samsung, etc etc and couldn't find anything that has adjustable an height. Eventually, a sales person at Sears quietly told us we should look at Miele in another store. This turns out to be a great idea. Miele European model can adjust from 32" to 34" with almost same capacity like their US model. It is a lot more expensive but we figure one of these days we need to remodel our kitchen and we want to buy something that we can keep in the future kitchen. It is very nice that we didn't have to wait for long time to get an EU model. The installer came in and was able to cut the old GE out and installed a new Miele. Here is what we have seen: 1. Miele allows installer to raise the front two supports easily and the entire machine is raised at the same time. This let the installer make a perfect fit to our space. Smart engineering! 2. Their front panel is hard to put on without a professional help because it comes in as a separate piece so that customers can customize it to whatever they like. Great designs but there are many small things you have to take care properly. Our installer is certified Miele dealer. They had no issues. We have used the dishwasher for a few weeks. 1. Absolutely easy to use and dishes come out very very clean. Grease and dry good come out great. It definitely has more washing power than our old GE. No comparison. 2. Very quiet. The only sound coming out is when it flushing water. Even that is a lot less noisy than our old GE. It doesn't seem like it flushes as much as GE. The motor sound is very low and very pleasing to hear (if you try hard to actually hear it). 3. It doesn't have a heat coil like GE did. We like it a lot. It uses less power and it doesn't burn plastics if they are at lower part of the DW. Also, less risk for getting burned. Dishes come out 95% dry. if you simply leave everything there for another hour or something, it becomes almost 100% dry. We like this. We usually start the DW before going to bed. In the morning, everything is dry anyway. 4. It doesn't use the overflow thing that our old GE used. For my old GE, there were a few times that water came out of the overflow to our wood floor when drainage was slow in the kitchen. Miele doesn't use this. It detects when slow drain is detected and just stop. This is smart! We noticed may new appliances still use overflow. Because we used the certified Miele installer from the dealer, they gave us one extra year warranty plus the original one year. Very expensive (2-3 times more $ than we originally wanted to spend) but we are very happy to have it. In fact, we may go with other Miele appliances since their "simple elegant style" is a better fit for us than a more aggressive "I am expensive" Viking type of appliances.

I have a cheap second refrigerator in my garage; it's branded "Costco by Whirlpool" and built in 1999 in Mexico. Recently the refrigerator compartment wasn't cooling... spoiled milk was the first clue. This was in spite of the fact that the freezer compartment was fine. I knew that if the compressor was bad it probably wouldn't be worth repairing this old fridge BUT it probably was OK since the freezer was working. Given the age of the refrigerator I was reluctant to call out a repairman when the meter is at $75-100 when they first show up. So I Googled "Whirlpool refrigerator not cooling" to see if I could get any hint as to whether or not it was liable to be a big problem. MUCH to my surprise I found a lot of really useful information including several very helpful UTube tutorials. These videos provided trouble-shooting tips and detailed disassembly instructions.... once I opened up the freezer compartment (not at all difficult) it was clear from the hidden ice buildup that the defrost cycle wasn't working and that the ice was blocking cold air from the refrigerator compartment. Several of these videos pointed to the automatic defrost system as the likely culprit and specifically to the bi-metal defrost thermostat. This thermostat is a simple on-off switch designed to keep the defrost heater from getting too warm and defrosting the food in the freezer compartment. One video even showed a test procedure to verify whether the defrost thermostat was faulty (involves a multi-meter and a glass of ice water, but a AA battery and a flashlight bulb would have worked). Sure enough it looked bad (and failed the test) so I went to the local supply houses to find one. They had generics in stock but those lack the clip-on feature. The delay for the clip-on part was four days and the cost was $35.... I could have gotten it just as fast and much cheaper through Amazon&nbsp;<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/Whirlpool-2321799-Defrost-Bimetal-for-Refrigerator/dp/B004XLEH38/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">Whirlpool 2321799 Defrost Bimetal for Refrigerator</a>. The only "skill" required to install the thermostat was stripping the wires and applying wire nuts and electricians' tape (see UTube if you want detailed how-to help with that). While I was in there I noticed the fan motor was wobbly and somewhat sticky and thus seemed likely to fail soon. The fan motor is $65 from my local suppliers so I ordered this guy from Amazon. It was easy to install with my newly-found expertise at removing the freezer parts and fit perfectly... probably a 15-minute chore to replace. It works without wobbling and is very quiet and smooth turning. Everything good except my worrying. Why worrying? The vendor delivered the part to UPS within 24 hours of my order but the UPS tracking system said it was going to take 16 DAYS to get here.... from CA to WA!! I kept checking and the UPS system kept reporting 16 days. It actually showed up in 5 days (three working days, which is normal UPS Ground from California), so it was all about faulty UPS reporting not any actual service problem. But if you were waiting for it to repair your main refrigerator it sure could cause some stress.

I want to be fair and update this. I phoned the Avanti customer service line and I have to say, I have never had a better, easier experience than the one with the Avanti representatives. The call took less than 10 minutes, and I had a service call phoned in and ready to go. Within the week my machine was looked at, and repaired, by a local authorized service person - thanks Pete. The issue with the machine was as a result of my floor being uneven - because of the uneven floor I was told I needed to put in less weight or even the machine's distribution. Further, the clanging sound was due to a loose metal button which had come off of a pair of jeans. I have since run 3 loads of laundry and have not had a single issue. I want to therefore go on record as saying, this machine, and the company which puts it out and stands behind it, is excellent and I cannot recommend it enough. ________________________ I wrote the below in May, but since then I have suffered the reality that good things do NOT always come in small packages. My machine has stopped operating as during the cycle it continually resets itself - further - it sounds as if something inside has broken free (like a screw of some kind). I have tried to contact the retailer I bought it from but to no avail - I am NEVER goign to order anythign big from anyone besides Amazon again. I will update this after I have resolved the issue (one way or another) but in the meantime - wish me luck - I think I'm going to need it! ________________________ I have always rented apartments in New York, and as any renter can tell you, laundry day at the laundromat is a nightmare. Typical trips to the laundromat require a commitment of up to 4 hours, where you fight for machines, stand by waiting for dryers, try to drown out the sound of screaming children and blaring radios, while praying that the person who used the machine before you practice good hygeine. As bad as all of that is, add to it the thread of someone stealing your clothes when your back is turned, folding even your most private of delicates in public view and worst of all - the looming threat of bed bugs. Finally, one day, I decided I could live like this no lnoger. The Avanti 21" Portable Machine has saved me from the nightmare. I was at first sceptical that this small machine, designed for apartment type living, would ever be able to give to me clothes clean enough, or loads big enough, to make me happy ... but I am happy to admit that I was wrong. The Avanti 21" is a powerful machine that allows the user to customize the number of rinse cycles, the length of the spin cycle, and the length of washing. It has preprogrammed settings for delicates through heavy soil - although I find that the normal cycle is ideal for my laundry needs. Although a small machine it can handle a large load fitting 3 pairs of men's jeans, 4 t-shirts, a number of socks and undergarments and a couple of towels. My boyfriend and I have been quite comfortalbe doing one load a week of clothing, and another with towels and the miscellaneous oops forgot this items. I have washed my comforter and had it come out clean, smelling fresh and pretty well spun. I give the Avanti my very first 5 star rating, and cannot recommend it enough.

I wish there was any other place to vent my frustrations about Thermador and their substandard products in an effort reach a broader audience. Their customer service department has no desire to help and their owners manuals do not provide the right specifications for maintenance and repair. I purchased a 36" 6-burner range in October 2014 and when they installed the range it was not working. The install crew could not diagnose the problem and I had to wait for a service technician - he was 2 weeks out. He came to the house and diagnosed the problem as a shorted "main board." It took 4 weeks for the part to come in and we were without an oven that entire time. After the main board was replaced we continued to have problems. The service tech was sent out several time and the main board replaced every time. We had problems with the oven not heating, the whole unit not powering on, gas burner valves that would not activate, and sparking modules that wouldn't work. All these issues were at different times on the same unit. Finally after a year of issues with our range they replaced the unit with an entirely new unit and it's been the same issues all over again. The latest and greatest is an issue with the light bulbs. Apparently you have to replace both at the same time, regardless of which bulb is burnt out because they are apparently wired in series. I checked my owners manual and it said to buy 10w, 12 volt G4 base halogen lights. No one in the city of Austin, TX sells these bulbs. The only place I could go is Amazon or Thermador. I refused to pay their obscene prices for the bulbs and delivery so I ordered on Amazon. The bulbs I ordered had specification listing the exact size of the bulb and pins which was listed as the standards for G4 bulbs. The product was highly rated and so I purchased a 20-pack. (The factory bulbs have only ever lasted a month at best and were changed whenever they would come out to replace the main board, so I figured I should order a large pack.) The bulbs I received were the correct size according to G4 bulb specifications but would not fit in the oven. I called Thermador and they said they would not help me since I did not buy the bulbs from Thermador. I was transferred to a supervisor who was super rude. He would ask me a question and cut me off before I could answer. I told him (without profanity) to quit interrupting me and he said he would hang up on me if I talked back to him again so I was forced to deal with his incessant interruptions. I have never been treated so rude by any customer service rep, let alone a supervisor. The entire 2-year experience has been a nightmare and I wish they would just come and take the range back. What's worse is that I encouraged my brother, when he built his new home, and my parents, in their new home, to install Thermador ranges. BOTH have been replaced because of the same issues. Their experience with Thermador service has been no better and they have decided to let the appliance retailer we purchased the ranges from deal with the customer service department because they are so intolerable. Thermador does make a great product when it is working but those moments are short-lived and the joy of cooking with Thermador is fleeting. Beware if you are purchasing a Thermador and I would suggest that you look elsewhere and avoid the frustrations of owning any of their overpriced appliances.

ORDERING So we finally got this in our kitchen after a battle with shipping. I won't downgrade the item because of the service, but let's just say I ordered the item on September 14, 2014 with an expected arrival date between then and September 23, 2014. Even though the item showed in stock after ordering I received an email from the company HCost stating it was backordered. Long story short I got $100 off of the item for our troubles and received the Double Oven October 16, 2014. (Also, the company would not take the packing material with them even though it states that they will.) INSTALLATION We have laminate flooring so we weren't worried about scratches, but if you have wood I would be very careful as the item is very heavy. The instructions were written well enough and I was able to wire the Oven myself. One thing to pay attention to is that on some sites the electrical stated for this item ranges from 15 Amp to 50 Amp and 110 Volt to 240 Volt. Once I received the instructions it had both 110/240 30 Amp listed. The mistake we made was that our electrical and propane were on the wrong sides. We couldn't really fix that now, so we made do with some longer lines. LP Conversion was a breeze although the propane company initially said it had to be done by a certified plumber so i had one come over and watched what he did. If you can screw in a light bulb you can do the conversion, the oven comes with everything you need. What the plumber didn't or wouldn't do was adjust the burners on low so that they were actually low. So after he left the instructions state turn the burner on to low and pull knob and adjust screw. No pictures so I Was flying by the seat of my pants on this one. The problem was I started with the center burner. One screw is pretty impossible to turn down as the valve or whatever displaces the head of the flat head only allowing you to do a quarter turn. I spent an hour trying to ge it to work before I gave up. There is another screw in this one that turns the simmer down to actual simmer, this one and the other burners were a breeze to adjust. The handles were extremely difficult to pull of and I kept thinking i was going to break them. I saw in another post that they said the handles were cheap, the outside is plastic, but where the valve meets the handle was metal for me. Double Oven We have used both sides of the oven and find that pre heating the small one takes longer than I would have expected, but the light does eventually come off. We have not had any issues with baking as of yet. There are a multitude of programs that the ovens can do, but all we have used is bake and convection bake so far. I am sure I will pull out the book and see what the others are for. Cons You can't see the clock or the knobs without stepping back and bending over because of the overhang on the burners. Also, my wife has a problem with while using the burners up top she will be stirring or something and will inevitably push the handles of the burners in causing them to tick -tick because it is trying to start. Not a big deal just don't lean into the oven. This is a small list for now - but if you want a sharp looking stove without killing the bank then this is your choice. I have had the oven for a short period, so if antything else comes up I will update the posting.

Just bought and installed this Bosch dishwasher. I discounted the handful of negative reviews on Amazon and checked the reviews on Consumersearch.com (best DW overall), ABT (there were 26 reviews with average of 4.2 stars out of 5) and Sears (55 reviews with 3.5 out of 5; and both Sears and ABT were $100 less than Amazon.) So far, very happy with product and performance but will update this review if things change. Dishes get clean. Glasses are crystal clear. Period. With our last DW, we had to wash first, then put in the DW. To test the new Bosch, dried on food dishes put in without prewash, come out clean (although baked on pizza on a pizza sheet did not "wash" off in DW). Dishes come out dry, excepting the occasional plastic, Tupperware type product. As the physicists can explain, plastic just doesn't conduct heat very well, so won't dry as well as metal and china. It is very, very quiet, but not "silent" as others have reported. When running, the sound is subtle enough in the background that I know it's running, but we are happy with how quiet it is and can have a comfortable conversation in the kitchen when the DW is running. The most noise comes from the water being discharged into the garbage disposal, not from the DW itself. We like the flatware trays and don't really have any complaints with the rack designs. Another reviewer complained about the racks coming off the rollers. It hasn't been an issue for us, but again goes to design quality where DW no longer have attached racks that pull out, instead using rolling racks that rolling on the open DW door. Also, if the DW is not installed level and properly anchored, there will be operational problems and problems with the racks not coming out correctly/squarely and the racks rubbing the sides/gaskets. Others complain about it not drying, not cleaning, not rinsing or smells. We have had NO similar, negative experiences, but again, improper installation will give rise to some of these issues. Cons: As noted by others, build quality isn't the way DW used to be made. Plastic, plastic and more plastic. Twenty years ago, I was a lot younger and stronger, and DWs were so heavy I could not lift one by myself. Now I'm a lot older and I can lift this Bosch by myself with no effort. And when did they stop making DW 24" deep? If the DW was 24" deep instead of 20", it would hold a lot more dishes/pots. I guess that went the way of 1/2 gallons of ice cream. If Bosch spent another dollar or two they could affix the sound insulation with adhesive so that it stays in place during the installation process, but this is a very small thing. Plastic feet are probably a good thing to reduce sound transmission through the floor. How long it runs without problems, unknown yet. Update: 1/26/15. Thus far, absolutely no problems and still love it. Still almost silent operation and still gets dishes clean (however, you must not neglect to add the dishwashing aid solution when the indicator light comes on. For reasons I don't understand, without the rinse aid, dishes aren't as clean.) Would definitely buy again. Update: 1/16/17 Four years later and still love it! No issues.

UPDATE: I have downgraded my rating to one star. The reason is it leaves soap film on the dishes. We first noticed this when filling a just cleaned glass with water. Bubbles formed around the glass at the water line. At first we thought that it was air in the water but then we noticed that when we tipped the glass there was a soapy film. We were using the Bosch recommended products including the Finish rinse. We thought maybe the Finish rinse was leaving the soapy film so we let it run out and didn't refill the rinse container. We let it operate without rinse for about 30 days to make sure all the rinse was gone. The problem persisted. We then tried white vinegar which is recommended as a substitute rinse aid by many users. This did not help. The only way we have found to get rid of the soapy film is to run a complete wash cycle using no detergent. They then come out clean with not soapy film. I don't know what the health consequences may be from ingesting what apparently is dirty soapy rinse water left on the dishes but we have chosen to double wash. __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ I bought this to replace an aging GE. Our house has an open floor plan design and the dishwasher is located about 7' feet away on the opposite side of bar from where we sit to watch TV. We always had to crank up the volume when running the dishwasher so we were looking for a quite one. The salesman said we would be able to stand next to it while it was running and not hear it. That is an exaggeration but the Bosch is definitely quiet and we don't have to crank up the volume on the TV when it's running. It also cleans well and unlike some other reviewers I've not had a problem with wet dishes except for plastic dishes and containers and it's no worse drying those than our old machine. I do use the recommended Jet rinse so I don't know how well it would dry without it. Now for the negative stuff. I knew going in that the capacity would be smaller than our old dishwasher but I didn't think it would be as small as it was. It seems to have about half the capacity of our old dishwasher however I'm sure it's larger than that. It handles plates very well as well as typical drinking glasses. However it has a hard time with larger mugs, over sized pots and pans, long utensils like spatulas and long handled spoons or any other large dish, bowl, or container. With just two of us I used to be able to wash dishes once every couple of days. Now it's pretty much every day and I find I'm washing more things by hand because their large or unusual shape doesn't allow them to fit in the dishwasher along with a days worth of regular dishes. I can't comment about the lack of a built in disposer. I've checked the filter several times and it has always been empty but I don't put anything in the dishwasher that has any large pieces of hard food attached. I honestly don't know it I would purchase it again. I might look for a large capacity American made dishwasher that has good reviews for being quiet as well as cleaning dishes. My research turned up a couple but they were several hundred dollars more than the Bosch. Considering the price I hope it lasts longer than the GE it replaced and until such time as it does fail I'll just do dishes a little more often. I probably wouldn't recommend this dishwasher to a family with children at least not without fully explaining it's limitations in terms of capacity.

We've had this dishwasher installed for about a year and a half now. I did extensive research before settling on this model. The only thing I occasionally wish it had was a short cycle for parties or when I'm just running lightly soiled or dusty dishes from my pot rack...the short cycle is available on the next tier up of Bosch models at a higher price point. The tines are spaced pretty close on certain parts of both racks, but I have thick-ish pottery dishes that come clean even when placed in the narrow tines. I must admit that it took a bit of time to work out the best configurations for my dishes, and I found a few tricks months into owning it (there are a few tine rows that fold down and make some larger dishes possible to wash). The cycles are rather long (120-140 minutes), but this model is designed to be very energy efficient, and drying time is factored into those times. Yes, I will have water standing in the recesses at the bottom of overturned cups when the cycle is finished, but when the cycle timer beeps, the dishes are too hot to handle for more than a few seconds. I've also learned to pull the bottom rack out and jiggle the top rack to spill out the hot water caught in the bottoms of glasses. From what I understand, the drying cycle does not use forced air, but rather uses the loss of heat in the stainless tub to draw condensation from the air and dishes inside. This machine comes with some of the features of the next tier of Bosch's dishwashers, like the convertible silverware rack, flip-tines, and the RackMatic adjustable upper rack. The top rack is super-easy to adjust up or down even when full of dishes, and when it is in the upper position, the clearance in the lower rack is enough to clear a larger cookie sheet. I have loaded this machine to the gills and rarely have a dish not come clean...usually only burnt-on gunk needs to be hand-scrubbed. I found a comparison table somewhere on Bosch's website that lists all of the models and their features. Also, being a German company, they have comprehensive photos/diagrams in the manual that outline dish placement to get the full 14 place-settings stuffed inside. And it's so quiet! It kind of sounds like a gentle rain is falling outside--even when I'm standing next to it, I sometimes have to look for the LED indicator to make sure it's running! I also like that the controls are hidden when the door is closed, giving it a sleek look under the counter. If I need to add a dish shortly after the cycle has started, or to check the time remaining on the cycle, I pop the door slightly so that the water stops spraying, then open the door...all water will drip into the interior. Speaking of water, Bosch's have a leak proof basin under the tub which will catch the full water capacity of a wash cycle in the event of a leak, thereby saving your flooring from a flood in the event of a failed seal. I can't really knock this dishwasher for anything. Still in love with saving all of those hours in front of the sink doing dishes!! I even fearlessly hosted Thanksgiving after installing this! You can search for the great price (690 pre-tax delivered!) I got on this posted somewhere on Gardenweb...I believe the promotions I used are still run periodically. Trust me, I did the homework. This will be the best bang for your buck and last you for years longer than the cheapo $300-400 dishwashers at the big-box stores.

We bought this Kitchenaid dishwasher 11 months ago and it suddenly started to leak from the bottom. Quite a bit of water got into the sub-flooring before we realized what was happening. Some damage was done to the downstairs ceiling (water stains, soft spots, etc.) Water also got into one of the light sockets and the bulb started sparking so we shut off the power to the area due to fire concerns. Later, we noticed some water had seeped onto a shelving unit doing some damage to the items stored there. After we shut off the water and power to the damaged areas, I removed the kick plate from the bottom of the Kitchenaid and had a look with a flashlight. There was no leakage coming from the install points (water supply and drainage hoses) which told me this was not an installation problem. However, I noticed squeeze type pressure clamps on two of the dishwasher's connection hoses. These are not the types of clamps (in my opinion) that should be used where water is involved. I would use quality clamps where the pressure could be set with a screwdriver. I also noticed a part of the dishwasher (motor or pump I thought) sitting on the floor apparently detached. It looks like this dishwasher may have some design flaws but clearly there have been some cheap parts used in its construction. I was quite shocked. Whirlpool was very supportive and apologetic on the phone but said we would still have to wait 2 weeks for service. Because of our concerns about the poor build quality of this unit, we've decided to take the next 2 weeks while waiting for service (and doing dishes the old fashioned way) to look for a better machine. Our biggest question right now is once the dishwasher is "fixed", will we be able to trust it? What if it leaks again and we aren't home? Being able to sleep at night is more important than the $1,000 or so we spent so we will consider this (and the cost to repair the damage to our home) the cost of tuition to learn about Whirlpool / Kitchenaid. A lesson learned, albeit an expensive one. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Update - the service technician finally showed up today. Here is his report - "11/27/13 11:30: RN there 27 WED, 11:07 to 11:25, Checked over unit.found clamp came off the motor and wet the motor shorting motor and control.ordered parts from marcone., ordrd 1 w10328224 (sump and motor assy) and 1 w10473198 (control), saved tckt [SdLink\'46491a.png] (via SDM)" I asked him about the clamp coming off and he said it was a "common problem". We are now waiting 10 business days for the new motor and control (and hopefully a better clamp?). When it's back up and running, we'd like to sell it. Anyone want to buy a 1-year old refurbished Kitchenaid dishwasher that couldn't possibly leak again? ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Final Update - Decided to see if the dealer would help and sure enough they did. We worked out a deal to our satisfaction and have just installed a new Miele Crystal. I was impressed with the German engineering and the specs. The Kitchenaid is gone so the bad news is it's not available for sale but the good news is we have peace of mind.

I just got this dishwasher and there were some website filled with positive reveiws and others that had nothing but poor reviews, but since I needed a new dishwasher ASAP I needed something acceptable that was in stock locally that I could get that day and this one met those needs. First, I had a fairly large GE that had racks that were 21" square and I didn't want to go smaller. This one is a 1/8" smaller, but is considered a 15 place setting dishwasher. I prefer buttons on the front but like I said I needed one quick so I couldn't be too picky. My husband was doing the installation and that was pretty easy if you are at all handy. The only two issues we had on istallation. The first was that our countrtops are granite so we had to opt for side installation and there were no intructions for that (although if you buy a special kit they are enclosed). Also, we ended up lowering it a half inch more than suggested so I could better see the hidden buttons. So, some of the negative reviews mentioned this washer doesn't clean well. Our sales person told us unless it was set to high temp wash it wouldn't clean well...something to do with most water heaters not being set high enough to break down dishwasher detergent so it can clean. So we used the high temp wash with heated dry and our dishes were clean but they were wet, wet, wet, particularly the plastics. So the next time, I set the wash to not only hight temp wash, but also chose sani-rinse (which is a high temp rinse), plus heated dry. On that wash, I not only had clean dishes but also dry dishes, including dry plastics. The only exception to the dry plastics was the one container that had a divet in it that acted like a mini pool, so there was still a little water on that one. All the plastic cups with bottom rims were dry. In general, I am happy with this washer and the only reason I knocked one star off is that I think I shouldn't have to use every high temp setting to get clean dry dishes. I am guessing that most of those people who are unhappy with the cleaning and drying didn't have a salesperson to give them a heads up on the most effective settings. I know had I not been told, I would have just washed on normal wash, and not have added high temp, or sani rinse. UPDATE - DEC 26, 2012...I had my mom and sister visiting and my sister convinced me to do some test with some super hard to clean to items, like a totally gunked mac & cheese casserole dish, an oatmeal bowl from breakfast that had been allowed to sit all day, and my mothers dried up metamucil glass. I only agreed to forego my thorough rinsing because she agreed to clean it all if the dishwasher didn't get it. Well, the dishwasher got it all off no matter how awful the dish looked going in. So now I just scrape the extra food out of pans and off the dishes and put them in, and they come out perfectly clean every time. I still get a little bit of water on some plastics (not nearly as much as my old dishwasher) but using the sani-rinse and heated dry really helps keep the wetness to a minimum. Update - Dec 31, 2011...Uh oh, I had a load with very wet plastics while my husband was out of town. Ends up he was popping the door open after the wash was done to let the steam escape, resulting in much dryer plastics. I didn't do that and had wet plastics. So another hint, pop open the door after the wash. Still very happy with this dishwashers cleaning power.

I bought this dishwasher at ABC Warehouse, last month. It was on sale for $404.10. Pros: SUPER quiet, solidly built, "anywhere" silverware basket (I keep ours on the lower rack, NOT the door), indicator to see the rinse aid level, indicator lights indicating what part of the wash cycle the dishwasher is in. Cons: "Anywhere" silverware basket, rack tines aren't meant to be adjusted, no just rinse option (That I have yet discovered). Ok so the first thing I would like to emphasize in my review is how unbelievably quiet this dishwasher is; so quiet, in fact, that after we installed it, we kept going up to it and trying to "hear" if it was running or not! The only true way you can hear it work is when it drains the water. And the only noise you will hear is from your sink, NOT the dishwasher. So it gets A+ in the sound department. IMO, it is a strong competitor to Bosch and the other virtually silent high-end dishwashers. So moving on, I should disclose Ive had the dishwasher a month. However, I am quite the dishwasher aficionado. Buying this appliance was a VERY involved process for me, in fact I believe the salesman at ABC Warehouse truly believed I was mentally ill, as I had to come and "look" at the dishwasher 3-4 different times before I actually committed buying it, lol. With that being said I never thought I would dislike the "anywhere" silverware basket - but after using it once or twice, what a dumb thing. On the door, my silverware didn't seem to get the exposure to wash water and detergent like it does on the rack, so I removed it from the door and placed it on the lower rack. I notice my silverware doesnt have that weird smell now, like they did on the door. I recommend moving the basket. The silverware basket holes for the silver ware are also an afterthought - if you have thick handled silverware, you are going to have to flip the top of the basket and place the silverware in directly. The racks are very well build and do not feel cheap. The tines aren't meant to be bent, but I was able to easily move one. The controls on the front are easy to use, and the indicator light will let you know what stage the dishwasher is in. There isn't a rinse only option, that I have read about or discovered yet, bummer. I really liked that feature in my last dishwasher. Guess I missed that in my research! Whirlpool recommends Cascade Platinum tabs, they even give you two of them as a promotion with the machine and I did go out and buy some, however I find that Cascade liquid works just as well if not better. Downside- the liquid leaves stains that look like hardwater stains. Vinegar takes it right off. When Whirlpool promises you can fit 15 place settings into the machine, or whatever their wild promise is, they aren't making things up. The lower rack is HUGE and will seriously fit 15 plates easily. The upper rack fits most cups nicely. Last but not least, the stainless tub seemed thinner than my last Kitchenaid. Either way, dishes ALWAYS come out dry (I use the non-eco heat dry option & sani-rinse) and the plates and glasses are piping hot at the end of the wash. All-in-all, I strongly recommend the Whirlpool WDF750SAYB. For the price, you aren't going to find a machine as quiet and flexible.

Dual fuel? Check. Double oven? check. 5 burner? Check. Nice look? Check. Well, looks can deceive. For the money it is very poor performing. The thing that I find utterly unacceptable is that the oven can not hold temperature. That has screwed up countless meals over the last 2 years. I thought I would adapt, get to know it's quirks...nope. Once it is at temperature and the door is opened and closed to place food inside, it does not automatically sense the temperature change to reheat the oven back to temp. That is a basic, fundamental oven function that it can not do!. So here is my work around. I set the oven for 350 deg. The digital output will show it climbing up to temp. It beeps that it is ready. I place food inside. I turn off the oven, then immediately turn it back on, setting it at 350 again. It shows the temp is down to 320 or so. Then the oven will heat back up. If the oven is not manually triggered it will linger at 320 or so. This happened last night, my husband did not know the trick - to what he thought was 30 minutes at 350 for a casserole ended up too low a temp to cook and brown properly in 30 minutes so when I boosted the temp to get it too cook, it was pretty dried out and ruined. All the convection features will burn and dry out and ruin anything you put in there. I researched and tried all the tricks and the foods that are suppose to work "great". Nope. Food and time wasted. The oven probe feature - I never use that either. When the probe reaches the temp you want it turns off the oven. But it is usually underdone because the probe is metal so it "cooks" the meat around it in a roast. So then I have to turn the oven back on, reset the probe in another hole, and iterate 2 more times. What a waste of time and effort! I prefer to manually check with my external probe so I can adjust the time and doneness without the hassle of the oven turning off each time. The burners. I like the front 2. The middle oblong burner is weak. I thought I could put a roasting rack on it instead of across two burners but it is too weak to work well. Bottom oven - I like this but it takes 30 minutes to come up to temp. but it does cook more evenly for shallow items that the larger oven. So with the GE oven such a failure, I have found I use my nice Breville toaster oven so much more now. It comes up to temp quickly and accurately, it keeps itself at temp, cooks evenly. (At 10% of the cost of this dual oven) Instead of cooking a 13x9 casserole and saving leftovers. I make 2 8x8 casseroles so I can cook them in the Breville. One is cooked, then the second is cooked while we eat. I stopped making mini-muffins entirely. They were uneven burnt and dry. Always. I stopped cooking cookies on sheets, unless I make 1/3 more to account for all the dried and nasty ones. I opt for bar cookies in the Breville now. The list goes on and on. Bottom line: I intentionally avoid using my oven if I can. BTW I am an experienced, attentive epicurious-style home cook of 20 years. This oven has ruined more food in the past 2 years, by far, than what had been ruined in the previous 18 all combined! I wish I did not get this oven.

Please do yourself a favor and do not buy this range. I wish someone had told me all of the reasons you will hate this range. First of all it is seriously over priced. I owned this stove for approx 4mths when the real troubles started. I did not buy my stove from this company. There is only one big element. It looks like there is two but in reality there is only one. You pretty much have to cook everything on 8-9 or high, anything lower was just a simmer. The piece of metal that runs across the top above the knobs scars at nothing. My husband sat a pizza pan on the top and it was part way resting on the metal, he used the pizza cutter while holding the pan with the other hand and just the slight movement looked like he took sand paper to it. The knobs look great being on the front but in reality this is a real pain as grease and food drop on them while cooking, there is no way to avoid this and also no way to clean behind the large ring that the knob fits in. The knobs themselves can be removed for cleaning but the base cannot. There is a gap between this ring and the stove which food gets in. We had a accident involving pancake batter being dropped on one of the knobs and I could not get it out. I tried a tooth pick, I tried laying a wet cloth on it to soak it and it simply could not be removed. The touch screen on the front looks nice and works great but is super sensitive. It works like the touch screen on a iPhone, iPad etc. It is not one you push you just barely touch it. It is made of glass. On one occasion the oven was cut on just by rubbing against it and on another occasion I went to get dinner out as the timer was going off only to discover the oven had been cut off and the food was still raw. Everything else was done but the main course was raw chicken....not good. You would really hate this setup if you have small kids. The oven drawer is a joke it takes forever to heat up and only has one element resulting in burned food, also as we all know oven drawers seem to attract dust bunnies even if it is barely ever opened. The final straw was the piece of metal above the knobs developed a bulge in it for unexplained reasons. Because of this bulge the rubber gasket that fits between the glass top and the metal started to work its way out of the slot. I pushed it back in only to have it back out inside of a week. GE sent out a repair man who ordered a new part, when the part came someone had attached the gasket on the wrong side of metal piece making it unusable. I got a second part shipped UPS when I opened the box it had a used parts in it with food on it and no rubber gasket. The gasket problems resulted in electrical problems where moisture was able to get between the glass top and the metal piece. This is where all of the electrical parts are located for the knobs. This resulted in the oven thinking the door was not closed and the oven will not come on until the door is closed. It would just keep saying please close oven door. I would open and close the door until finally it would recognize that the door was actually closed. After nearly 3 months of dealing with this mess the place I bought the stove from brought me a new stove. I lost approx $300.00 by doing this but I was just happy to have this nighmare out of my house. The only thing this stove has going for it is that it is pretty. Stay away.

I wish there was any other place to vent my frustrations about Thermador and their substandard products in an effort reach a broader audience. Their customer service department has no desire to help and their owners manuals do not provide the right specifications for maintenance and repair. I purchased a 36" 6-burner range in October 2014 and when they installed the range it was not working. The install crew could not diagnose the problem and I had to wait for a service technician - he was 2 weeks out. He came to the house and diagnosed the problem as a shorted "main board." It took 4 weeks for the part to come in and we were without an oven that entire time. After the main board was replaced we continued to have problems. The service tech was sent out several time and the main board replaced every time. We had problems with the oven not heating, the whole unit not powering on, gas burner valves that would not activate, and sparking modules that wouldn't work. All these issues were at different times on the same unit. Finally after a year of issues with our range they replaced the unit with an entirely new unit and it's been the same issues all over again. The latest and greatest is an issue with the light bulbs. Apparently you have to replace both at the same time, regardless of which bulb is burnt out because they are apparently wired in series. I checked my owners manual and it said to buy 10w, 12 volt G4 base halogen lights. No one in the city of Austin, TX sells these bulbs. The only place I could go is Amazon or Thermador. I refused to pay their obscene prices for the bulbs and delivery so I ordered on Amazon. The bulbs I ordered had specification listing the exact size of the bulb and pins which was listed as the standards for G4 bulbs. The product was highly rated and so I purchased a 20-pack. (The factory bulbs have only ever lasted a month at best and were changed whenever they would come out to replace the main board, so I figured I should order a large pack.) The bulbs I received were the correct size according to G4 bulb specifications but would not fit in the oven. I called Thermador and they said they would not help me since I did not buy the bulbs from Thermador. I was transferred to a supervisor who was super rude. He would ask me a question and cut me off before I could answer. I told him (without profanity) to quit interrupting me and he said he would hang up on me if I talked back to him again so I was forced to deal with his incessant interruptions. I have never been treated so rude by any customer service rep, let alone a supervisor. The entire 2-year experience has been a nightmare and I wish they would just come and take the range back. What's worse is that I encouraged my brother, when he built his new home, and my parents, in their new home, to install Thermador ranges. BOTH have been replaced because of the same issues. Their experience with Thermador service has been no better and they have decided to let the appliance retailer we purchased the ranges from deal with the customer service department because they are so intolerable. Thermador does make a great product when it is working but those moments are short-lived and the joy of cooking with Thermador is fleeting. Beware if you are purchasing a Thermador and I would suggest that you look elsewhere and avoid the frustrations of owning any of their overpriced appliances.

After much research, I bought this GE Induction range to replace a perfectly good traditional gas range. Since it's induction, I had to replace my well used and well maintained anodized aluminum cookware with new multi-clad stainless cookware and install a dedicated 220V line as well. So I'm well beyond just the purchase cost of this range. But I can say that I love using it. I know it won't really pay for itself since electricity is more expensive than natural gas where I live. But, I also live where it gets very warm, okay really hot and humid in the summer and I hated turning on the gas range to cook. I know the old adage "if you can't stand the heat, get out of the kitchen", only I like to cook and I was looking for a practical way to reduce the heat load in my kitchen. This range is perfect for that. It only heats up the pan and what is in it, so that there's no excessive heat build-up. Though I haven't yet experienced the full blast of summer heat yet, I can tell already that cooking on this range is a much cooler proposition than cooking with gas. Perhaps it's the better insulation from my older gas range, but the electric convection oven also manages to keep more heat inside the oven space. Of course, when one opens the oven door it can steam up my glasses, but if I have something in the oven, it doesn't radiate heat everywhere. So, why only 4 stars? Well, it's the ceramic range surface - it scratches like crazy. I'm a bit of a picky guy, so I try to keep things well maintained, but in spite of my best efforts, the top is already showing excessive scratches. I have followed GE's recommendation and use Cerama Brite on it, and it does shine the surface nicely, but the scratches are still visible. I haven't used any rough bottom pans, and there isn't any sharp instruments, knives, etc. on the surface but it still managed to pick up a nice sharp round scratch that probably came from my very new Circulon pan (which is made for Induction cooking). How it happened remains a mystery, but if you're the kind of person who likes everything shiny, then you will be spending a lot of time trying to keep the surface from picking up hairline and deeper scratches. Because it's a slick surface, it's too easy for the pan to move off of it's center on the magnetic core requiring two hands to do simple tasks like flipping an omelet. Coming from gas, I'm used to shaking the pan which isn't a good idea with induction. If the range isn't making contact with the base of the pan, the magnetic field is interrupted and the cooktop will shut off after a few seconds. One can still lift the pan, shake quickly, then return it to the range before the hob shuts off. I understand it's probably a safety shut off, but I do wish that there was a way for the owner to adjust the amount of time that the range allows you to break contact before shutting off. My wife complains that the all electronic touch control panel doesn't always accept inputs requiring repeated attempts to turn on the oven, or adjust the temperature. I haven't really found that to be as much as an issue, though I have experienced a momentary lag in the range showing the proper cooktop setting. Still, all in all, it's a really wonderful way to cook - very fast and, with a little practice, very precise cooking temperatures. I kind if feel like I'm cooking in the Jetson's kitchen. Now if GE could just figure out a way to make the surface top a little more scratch resistant, I'd be giving it 5 starts for sure.

How this made the Consumer Reports reccomendation is kind of weird. I have had very good luck buying appliances and goods based on their reviews. I bought the gallery series stove in stainless six months ago. I bought them for a house I bought to remodel. The Gallery series looked good but I would never buy the series again. The diswasher had such terrible reviews I went a head and returned it for a Whirlpool that had high reviews and we are happy with it. The Stove and refrigerator are both nearly worthless and I would NEVER buy them again. The stove has little plastic tabs on the bottom of the grates that melt and also fall off way to easily. The space between the interior glass and exterior glass has vents that allow dust to enter and you can't clean it. When the sun shines in during the morning all you see is a glass door that looks very dusty but you cannot get in there to clean it. TERRIBLE design! The "convection" fan sometimes never comes on when it is supposed to and other times it comes on after a few minutes after it comes to temp and other times it comes on right away once to temp. Which is it supposed to be Frigidaire? The top is very hard to clean compared to a ceramic flat top but I do like the burners. The refrigerator is another joke. Food keeps freezing on the bottom shelf and on the top shelf in the back left corners. I kept adjusting the temp up but the other items like milk and soda were getting to warm. I used my Thermopen(Purple one works best..Inside joke for Competition BBQ teams) and the milk on the front center shelf was 41.2 F while the chicken breast on the bottom shelf was 26.4 in the back and 39.1 on the front breasts. Terrible air flow! Next problem is the ice maker/water dispenser. The ice tray is crooked because they installed the track it slides into crooked. No way to fix it easily so we have to live with a icecube tray that looks like it is going to break. The water comes out horribly slow. I am talking a minute and a half for filling up a 20 oz cup with ice. The ice cubes are now getting hollow. it also stops working for hours on end. Sometimes it takes the icemaker 6-8 hours to dump one cycle. other times it happens about every hour or so. I just heard it dump (which is LOUD!)and it dumped during dinner 1.25 hours ago. Maybe will dump in a hour maybe 8, we never know. All we know is that it is 15 f outside right now and we don't use much ice in winter but we still run out every second or third day. The microwave only problem is the vent fan is SUPER LOUD! I am talking LOUD! You can barely have a conversation when it is on. And with the gas stove/oven if it gets to hot under the microwave it turns on it's fan by itself so there is nothing you can do to stop it. It will go off by itself eventually, but that is usually half way through dinner! I have actually gotten into the cabinet above the stove and unplugged the microwave when we were ready to sit down so we could talk durring dinner. We will be putting our house on the market later this year and I am looking forward to getting different new appliance in our next house!

I bought this washer (along with the matching dryer), less than 3 years ago. At first we thought it was a really nice set and were excited to have a "nice, very expensive" set that would last us for years to come. Fast forward 2 1/2 years. Our washer just stopped working. We immediately called Whirlpool. When we were on the phone with them, they gave us 2 options. We could pay a little over $600 to get the washer fixed, OR we could buy an extended warranty for $350. No brainier, right? Again, wrong. After buying the extended warranty (remind you, FROM Whirlpool), we set up an appointment for the service company to come and look at our washer. 3 days later he showed up and told us he needed to order 2 parts and would call us by the end of the week. When the end of the week came and we did not hear from the service provider, we called them. At that point, we were told that the part was on back order and we should call back in a few days to check on delivery. Long story short, after 4 weeks, no calls, unanswered messages and no washer, we started calling Whirlpool directly. Whirlpool told me that THEY have the part, and I could purchase it for $300 and give it to the service company (?!?). I had already paid for the warranty and it should be covered. When I called the service company back and told them that Whirlpool had that part, they told me they "didn't get their parts from Whirlpool", I asked again when the part would be in. He told me "it's on back-order, I have no way of knowing when it will be in". When asked him what else could be done, he responded "What do you want me to do? Call Japan and have them ship the part faster?". Wow. After that experience, I called whirlpool back to let them low how I was treated by the service company that they sold me. Their response was "we do no have any authority over them". I let them know that when they sell me a warranty, the company they sell me is a representation of Whirlpool. Whirlpool disagreed with me. Whirlpool told me they would only get involved with a claim after the washer had been broken for at least 60 days. They also told me that a washer was not an "essential appliance" and I could always "go to a laundry mat". That was Whirlpool's solution. I could give many more details about bad service and rude treatment, but you get the general idea. Whirlpool does not stand behind their products anymore. And, their products are not what they used to be. Add to that the fact that I was treated very rudely by most of the associates I talked to from Whirlpool (even when I was able to reach a supervisor). Unfortunately, mine is not an isolated incident. If you go to the Whirlpool USA Facebook page and click on "posts to page", it is FULL of irate customers who have new, broken appliances and NO resolution from Whirlpool. Whirlpool is a pro at giving people the run-around, not responding and passing the buck. I will never by another Whirlpool product again. Please, please do your research before purchasing a Whirlpool product of any kind.

Don't buy if you want clean clothes. Let's dispense with the other reviews that want to complain about longer wash times or doesn't have this feature or that feature. This unit sucks hands down. I am a working mother of two toddlers. I come from a Samsung front loader so I understand longer wash times, sometimes smelly ring, yada, yada, yada. Those are all things that come with a front loading washing machine. I have used this model for two months now and let me tell you - find something else!!! Cons (lots of them) 1) Don't expect to get clean clothes. I don't always have time to treat my children's otherwise disgusting dirty clothes. However, I never have had to either. My Samsung would handle two or three day old laundry no problem. So naturally I expect a newer, more updated model to do the same. NOT! This thing can't even handle simple stains. When I first starting noticing stains come through the wash I just figured I wasn't used to dialing the cycles in and would eventually get to the magic combination. Even with steam this thing can't clean. Even with pretreat this thing can't clean. Even with the "soak" option this thing can't clean. I am returning and going for another brand all together. 2) Again I am a working mom and will usually put a load of clothes in the washer at night to then put them in the dryer in the morning. The load smells terrible, even if I get to it first thing in the morning. The "Fan Dry" option is a nice gimmick but only works if you have a very small load. I could leave clothes in my Samsung for a night+day and not have the funk that's coming out of this Whirlpool only after a few hours. 3) Clothes are not as soft. Again this is something I noticed instantly but figured I wasn't using the right combination and would eventually dial it in. Think again. Even with fabric softener it doesn't help the softness or the smell as referenced above. 4) Detergent dispenser makes a mess. Once you load detergent into the dispenser it will automatically start to drain into the machine. Regardless of whether the dispenser is shut. Detergent will drain down onto the door and then into the ring. But here's the thing.... usually I'm running through the house and notice something else that needs to go into the wash. If you pause the cycle during the detergent unload and open the door, it will drip ALL over. I never had this issue with my Samsung. 5) Bigger drum doesn't mean bigger loads. We bought a bigger size expecting to be able to handle larger loads, less time doing laundry - right?!? Wrong!! Forget about doing a larger load with this thing, it doesn't get it clean. Even lightly soiled stuff won't come out clean. Like most moms I need stuff to work - the first time. It's chaotic in my house and sometimes with the help of little hands, dirty clothes make it into the clean clothes pile. I used to be able to tell right away that that's what happened. But now with this piece of junk I can't...... I just sigh, take it back to the laundry, pretreat (maybe for a second time now), and rewash. I don't have time for that.

Original review was 4 Stars: I like being able to open the right side and not having to open both doors to access the inside. Although, it would've been nice to be able to just access the left side, you can, but it's not as easy. I like the interior lighting, kinda feel like my food is in a dhow room. I like the digital display, it tells me when to replace the filter, and gives me a decent amount of options to choose from such as keeping the light on for the dispenser. No probs with the freezer, I like the top drawer slides with ease. In the fridge there is a bottom drawer, its a nice feature but I think I may have gone with a fridge that had this drawer to be able to be opened from the outside, as this drawer is accessed once both doors are opened. I'd recommend checking out a fridge in person that has this similar door feature and compare to other fridges with the door that can be accessed from the outside to see what you think, this is an expensive fridge and you want to make sure you like it. Also, if you don't mind making your own ice, or don't use ice frequently like me, it would be more roomier to not have an ice maker or ice chest in the fridge. I'd be fine with making several trays of ice to keep in the freezer to save on having more room, but this isn't a complaint but rather a personal preference, no impact on this rating. I like how Maytag gives you 30 days to ask for a replacement for any issues, such as a dent or scratch or whatever, and their service department, the one that has come to my house many times is called Alliance Appliance, and they have been professional and fixed or replaced any issue within 30 days free of charge, even if I caused the issue to occur, such as when I dented the top of my dryer by accident. The fridge is pretty noisy, really the only thing I don't like about it. The noise is that bad for me that I would not have gone with this fridge, and would've spent an additional $1000 for one that isn't noisy, but I had no idea. It does go quiet, but when it gets noisy, for whatever reason, maybe to keep everything cool after opening it, it can be noisy for like 5 min, but then goes away till it gets noisy again. I haven't kept track of the cycles of when it gets noisy, but I did just time it after using the fridge, and the noise went on for 5 min then turned off, but hasn't gone back on and it has been 10 min, so this may just occur when I open it. And when it's noisy, and when I notice it, it is irritating. Maybe it's normal fro the fridge to get this noisy in order to do the cooling or whatever it's doing, my old Kenmore got noisy to, but it was a $400 fridge. I just felt for the price of this one, I would think that this noise wouldn't really be that annoying. Maybe I'm wrong on this noise, meaning maybe most fridges have this noise, but just a little disappointed in how expensive it is, being over $2000, and having this issue, but it could be just my lack of education on fridges and experience overall, so if this is the case, then disregard my blabbing about the noise and make this a 4 or 5 out of 5, but until I am proven wrong this review will be a 3 due to the noise. Best of luck! New Review: It has been 4 years and now the freezer doesn't freeze. What a joke. I'm single owner and only user. Now I need to get this repaired.

Ours looks just like this except it has a plastic tub, and it shares most of the same failings as mentioned in other reviews. To get all dishes clean on Normal wash cycle, I use both the Steam option and the Boost Water Temp option. I would have expected to save the Steam option for occasional use but without it cleaning is not reliable. Boost Water Temp, I have read, is often needed on various dishwashers. In our case the pipe to the dishwasher from the water heater is along runI'll stand at the faucet for 30-60 seconds waiting for hot water to arrive. But use of these two options certainly increases both energy usage and time take to do a load. It is nearly 2 hours. I never use the heated dry option (to conserve energy and avoid damaging plastic things) and so I guess I cannot complain that when I open it after 2 or 3 hours things are still damp and water collects in concave items and on the top flat racks. I try to remember to open it when I hear it shut off if I'm still up, then leave it open for a couple of hours and things will be dry. My pet peeve is the rinse-aid dispenser which seems to give no clue as to how full it is. The little window is dark all the time. So I have to periodically remember to open it and pour in the liquid carefully so as not to overflow it. This seems so simple to fix in the design process,and our previous one certainly had a visible indicator. We have hard well water and use Lemi-Shine rinse aid to lessen hard water spots. The utensil racks are like the ones criticized by another reviewer: one part has separate slots for each utensil, though you can open the lid and put things into a small open cage. The part of the rack in front of the soap dispenser can only be used for short items such as paring knives since tall items will block the opening of the soap dispenser (which, btw, has only one compartment). I saved utensil racks from our previous dishwasher and use one to expand capacity (but it takes up space where 3 plates or other things could go). Probably I could relocate the dishwasher's own utensil rack, from its insecure spot hanging on the outside of the bottom rack, to standing in the bottom rack, at the cost of losing more space. More likely now that I am thinking about it, I will use cable ties to affix the utensil rack to the front of the bottom rack. For our most-used dishes the bottom rack is not well designed and so I never end up running the machine totally filled with dishes on the bottom. If I did, probably the crowding would further reduce the cleaning efficiency. Now the items that don't get clean are mainly silverware. Yes, tall glasses do fall over on the top rack unless something with a broader base or shorter height, like a mug, is put next to the last one. The manual said, as I recall, not to hold glasses up by putting them over the upward prongs, maybe because water force might torque them and cause breakage, so careful loading is the only option. If manufacturers would pay more attention to comment pages such as these, they could no doubt make appliances that pleased users much more. Appliances are one very expensive purchase that you cannot test before buying! If I listed PRO and CON, I'm afraid there would be no PRO section. I chose it partly because of the options for Steam and Boost Water Temp, which I though would be useful once in a while. Its poor performance makes them necessary each time to get reliable cleaning. I've never used the height-adjustment on the top rack but sometimes the levers get bumped causing the rack to lurch downwards. Oh, it is fairly quiet, I can say that, just to end on one positive note.

We ordered this washing machine after reading a glowing review on Consumer's Reports (top rated). Our previous washer (a Kenmore) would randomly stop mid-cycle, plus the clothes never seemed to really get clean (towels would smell even after they were washed) and shake the house on every spin cycle. Oh, and the front loader began to leak as well. That's when we decided to get this new one. Our Kenmore replaced a top of the line Maytag Neptune that had a severe mold problem exacerbated by a bad electronics board that would need replacing way too often. So hopefully the third time is a charm (yeesh!). So far, so great! Clothes are clean, cleaner than we've had in years. And the machine has a nice song to sing when the cycle is done. Like night and day. Fast, energy efficient. I really hope this one stays around working well for years to come! But here is a great warning to you if you are considering to buy this washing machine on Amazon or some other web intermediary. Warning: do not to buy the machine through Goedeker's! What a mess. First of all they never stock the things. I'm not sure what they stock, but they never stock this washing machine even when they say it is in stock. They order it from Whirlpool only after they get your order. This adds a week or so to the delivery. And help you if you don't live in the mid-west because delivery will take weeks on top of that! 1st it's shipped it to their warehouse, then they ship it to JB Hunt shipping who then ships it to you for their "white glove" service. You'll get a notice from Amazon that the order has shipped when Goedeker's ships it to their intermediary. You get a notice from Amazon that it has been delivered when the intermediary gets it. Believe me you are not that much closer to getting it. Give it another week on top of that for JB Hunt to get it into their system and schedule delivery. And then when you get it at your door please make sure the item isn't damaged! The delivery guys unboxed our machine and the front was dented in. You certainly don't want that on a front loader! OK sent back after a month waiting for delivery. Called Goedeker's and had to go through the whole process again! No expedited delivery from these guys even after they tried to unload damaged goods! Long story short: same process, another month. On delivery the delivery people (nice as they were) dropped the damn washing machine by accident on the stairs outside my house. Bent the back. They had already taken out the shipping bolts so who knew what kind of damage lurked inside. Contrite shipping company said they would replace the machine. Another whole week later Goedeker's calls to refund and not replace. Their policy: if delivery fails twice they refuse to ship. Even when it's their fault. They are losers. Don't deal with them. We lost two months with their bad sad service. Here is Goedeker's motto from their website: "Goedeker's Philosophy: We believe everything we do should be for the greater glory of God. Our priority is to serve our fellow man to the best of our ability. We want our customers to see Christ in us and in everything we do." Yeah, right. These guys are worthless and will waste your time. They want to play in the big time and can only play lip service. Jesus! I live in the NY area and called Drimmer's who had it in stock at a lower price and got delivery the next day. End of story. Let my travails be a lesson to you!

Letter to Consumer Reports: I bought this SAMSUNG RF266ABRS fridge because it was recommended by Consumer Reports in August 2009. This fridge - and other SAMSUNG fridges - should be taken off the recommended list because there is an inherent design defect that causes ice buildup on the evaporator coils. First there is a rattling noise as the fan hits the ice buildup. [...] Then the noise stops when the ice completely blocks the fan but then there is no more cooling happening. [...] There is even a class action lawsuit against SAMSUNG fridges: [...] Please look into this Samsung ice buildup problem. The Samsung fridges should definitively not be on the recommended list but put on the "do not buy" list. The ice buildup issue occurs about 1 year after purchase. SAMSUNG is not acknowledging the problem and does not help its customers. Letter to SAMSUNG: I am deeply unsatisfied on how SAMSUNG handled the warranty policy with my SAMSUNG Fridge French Door Model RF266ABRS. This fridge was defective starting Year 1 and was not repaired appropriately the 1st time. All was done on the 1st service visit was to defrost the evaporator - not fixing the problem itself. Of course, the problem reoccurred 1 year later and every year after that. Since the technician explained the problem, how to solve it and SAMSUNG customer service gave me a hard time because it was a few days over the 1 year purchase date, I dealt with it personally by unplugging the unit and let it sit unplug for 24 hours. Not a satisfactory resolution, just a quick workaround, until I got fed up with losing food and asked for SAMSUNG to resolve this problem once and for all. First this problem should have been resolved the 1st visit. Secondly I learned recently from numerous complaints and videos on the web that this is a defective design in SAMSUNG fridges that causes the ice buildup on the evaporator. Here is a video showing the defrost sensor modification kit to fix evaporator ice buildup. This is for the SAMSUNG RSH1 fridge but it is the same modification that was done on my fridge by the repair technician who came to my house: [...] Many SAMSUNG fridges have the same cooling design thus sharing the same ice buildup issue. I was charged $104.68 to fix SAMSUNG own defective design! This is outrageous and no decent company would shift the cost from itself to their customers . It shows utter disrespect for its own customers, not counting the monetary damage. Sir, should I remind you that your customers are your most important assets and should be your priority number one! SAMSUNG should have done everything in its power to help its loyal customers by fixing its defective fridges FREE OF CHARGE. The technician explained that he had to move the defrost sensor away from the evaporator in order to let the defrost cycle run longer and completely defrost the evaporator from any ice buildup. He also put a wider drain clip. The older clip was too small. It would get iced up and not let water drain away from the evaporator. There is also a new metal clip that attaches to the heating element and goes inside the drain clip to heat any ice there if needed so the drain cannot get clogged. In addition, a new seal kit - put on the market by SAMSUNG 3 months ago - was used to seal the evaporator compartment to prevent moisture to get in and improve circulation airflow provided by the fan.

This is my first review of this dishwasher after using it once 24 hours after installation. (A 2 month review is now included after my initial review) So far, I really like it. I am giving it 5 stars. Before you decide if this dishwasher is right for you, read reviews from Amazon and other sites (IE: bestbuy). There is a concerning number of complaints from other consumers who purchased this dishwasher and similar models from Frigidaire. I chose to buy this dishwasher and hope for the best. All of my kitchen appliances are Frigidaire Gallery stainless steel and no other brands match this line of appliances. So this is really my only option to have matching appliances. I previously had the model of dishwasher from Frigidaire that has the button panel on the top of the door instead of the front. THAT model is unspeakably terrible. The control panel or main circuit boars gets shorted by steam from the dishwasher. I paid $800+ repairing that model 4 times in 6 years. My first impression of this dishwasher (the new one that is replacing the old one), is that I feel confident with this purchase. What you should know is that many people have reported that this dishwasher will smell like burning while it is drying and there are even reports of fire. I can confirm that after 2 uses (the first run was to rinse chemicals from the factory) I can smell a very faint "hot plastic" odor as well as some strange musty chemical odor during the washing and drying cycles. The odor is so faint unless I was intentionally sniffing for it, I probably would not notice any odor or know that it came from the dishwasher. Use care when choosing an installer. If the dishwasher is installed improperly.... drains, water supply line, electrical wires, vent hoses, etc. those can pose a fire hazard. From what I have specifically read on different consumer review sites, the fire hazard is often from the vent hose being improperly vented and installed when the dishwasher is installed. Make sure you have a frigidaire recognized company install it if there is one in your area. If not, call around to ask if they are familiar with this brand of dishwasher and explain the problem with this model that others have encountered from improper and careless installation. It did do a good job washing my dishes, they are sparkling clean. In conclusion, Frigidaire does have certain products that can be a lemon. Most manufacturers do have at least one "flop" of a product. Almost any product will have bad reviews, be careful when buying anything, read reviews and way the risk of purchasing anything. UPDATE 60 DAY REVIEW I use this dishwasher usually once or twice a day, and the faint odors stopped after a couple of weeks. I remembered to check for the odor a few days ago and sniffed it while it was washing and drying to be sure I did not detect an odor so I could report accurately that the odor had diminished and disappeared in time. Many new appliances will smell different and have smells from manufacturing and being in a box and such. So, the odor was temporary. This dishwasher at this point is still dependable and doing a great job washing my dishes. I'm still happy and this was a great purchase for me and a much needed change from the prior "nicer" version from the Frigidaire Gallery line that has the problem with the key pad and/or control board being vulnerable to damage from water, vapor, debris etc.

As another reviewer mentioned, I have somewhat mixed feelings about this hood. The hood itself is extremely powerful and relatively quiet. At the highest setting it is not as loud as our old broan under cabinet recirculating fan unit.(see my notes later on about noise level tips). We steamed some crab and cooked popcorn on the stovetop and this thing takes the oil smoke and odors away very well. (note proper installation height from the top of your cooktop to the bottom of the fan) It looks very nice. The glass is a nice touch and will make cleanup nice and easy. As others have mentioned installation is a pain and the instructions leave much to be desired. Here are my installation tips: Measure from the top of your stovetop to the top of your ceiling, then subtract 30-36" for gas range (I think electric might be a little less). If that number is less than 26" then you will likely be looking at a more difficult installation. The problem we ran in to was that the stainless steel (SS) sleeve was too long to allow the mounting bracket to be mounted directly to the ceiling. This left me with 2 choices- take the SS sleeves to a machine shop and have a few inches cut off (and cut off length from the mounting braces) or install the mounting bracket up in the ceiling (in the attic). I opted for option 2, though in hindsight I may not choose that option again. Mounting it in the attic made it VERY difficult to secure the braces to the main ceiling mounting plate and take care of some of the other mounting/installation steps. There was a lot of up and down between kitchen and the attic which added a bunch of time to the install. I also will need to install some trim around SS sleeve, adding to the install time. Your ceiling may be high enough to allow a "normal" install, but just be aware that you may have to make some fairly major adjustments to the installation. A tip on reducing noise from the fan- Ditch the cheap plastic, slinky like connector that comes with the hood and use solid duct pipe (6"). The slinky connector will NOT last and create turbulence for the air flow. It will also collect grease and in my non-expert opinion eventually become a fire hazard. In order to connect solid metal duct the first connection needs to be an adjustable elbow because the fan connection is not in the middle of the unit so you need a slight angle to get the straight pipe up and out to your ductwork leading out of the house. Also, make sure that you make your duct work leading out of the house as straight and short as you can. This greatly reduces the noise and improves the efficiency of the fan. Also note that make-up air starts to become a consideration when you're talking 800-900 CFMs that you're trying to move. That's a whole other discussion that most people don't even think about. But, if you're fan is not working efficiently I recommend that you research a bit about that. Bottom line, for the price you get a TON of range hood. The CFMs are more than enough for most residential applications (if installed correctly). But as other reviewers mentioned, there is a price to pay with a difficult installation (especially for lower ceilings) and nearly worthless installation instructions. I would purchase again, but take more time on the planning of the install ahead of time. Just a note that I purchased this unit as a "scratch and dent" unit from an ebay seller for a little more than 1/2 the price and not from Amazon.

I read alot of reviews (on Amazon and elsewhere) on many makes and models, which led me to buying this washer (LG WT1201CW). In reviews I read people's most frequent complaint about High Efficiency (HE) washers seems to be they don't add enough water to cover the clothes. I found this to be true, seeing about 1/4 to 1/5 the height of the clothes being left exposed when beginning the wash cycle in a 'normal' mode. It seems strange especially when coming from a traditional non-HE washer (my old one broke down) that fills the tub enough to leave the clothes swimming in it. So for this new HE washer, what could I do to get more water in the wash cycle if I wanted it? I learned of a few tricks from others and from reading the manual/guides: 1. The quick reference guide that comes with the washer says to hold the Extra Rinse button for 3 seconds and it will add more water. I'm not sure if this added more water up front (seemed like it didn't) in the wash cycle, but tapping the Extra Rinse button once or twice did add noticeably ore water in the Rinse cycle (it allows up to 2 increases). 2. Start the machine, let it fill with water in the wash cycle. Shut it off. Start it again and it is tricked into thinking there is a heavier load (the weight sensor is what gages how much water the machine adds). 3. Start the washer in 'bulk' mode, which is used for bulky stuff like blankets and pillows. In this mode a lot of water is added, like is done with a traditional (non-HE) washer. I did this with my usual clothes load and it was like I had my old washer back. This feature alone would make all those complaints about lack of water go away. 4. Get a bucket of water and add it in with your clothes before hitting the Start button. This is easy if you have a wash sink nearby or another tap. You can add just enough water to top the clothes but even this extra amount will still result in using much less water than what you'd have by running in 'bulk' mode. You'd be semi-HE I guess. If you find the machine's standard water-fill adequate, then by all means leave it alone because that is where you get your savings. Maybe having more water is only a placebo for those transitioning from the old traditional water-generous units. Then again it might not be. As far as operation goes, I really like how quiet it runs, and it runs smooth with very little vibration. When vibrating it feels damped, and this is probably due to the excellent suspension system this machine seems to have. When installing the machine it's best to make sure it is as level as possible. You can use the legs to adjust each corner. The basket should look centered. I used a level to check it and the bubbles were centered even with the basket visually slightly off center. So its good to eyeball the basket too and try to perfect the level. I found it worth the extra effort. Another tip I was told is that in HE machines you use very little soap and fabric softener, like 1/3 of what is used for a load in traditional washers. I reduced my usage this way and the clothes came out clean and fresh. Finally, it is very worthwhile to read the manual even though the machine can be used intuitively. The manual tells you how to optimize its performance for the various types of fabrics out there. Or, you can keep it simple and run it like your old washer by using 'bulk' mode for everything. I gave this LG washer 5-stars because it works great and it shouldn't be penalized for annoying 'water efficiency' that is mandated by the US Government.

If you are in the market for the best washing machine that money can buy, the LG WM8000HWA draws more praise from both experts and consumers than any other available washing machine just pray you don't get a defective unit and have to deal with LG customer service or lack thereof. Convinced of our decision after extensive online research, we ordered our LG WM8000HWA from Amazon.com in April 2015, and it arrived without blemishes 19 days later. The washer started working flawlessly, but, within five regular loads of laundry, it started producing a loud rattling noise that consistently intensified throughout the spin cycle. Although sleek and intuitive, Smart Diagnosis on the LG mobile app was unable to identify the problem. The manipulations recommended in the owners manual troubleshooting chart were also ineffective. Exactly 30 days after the washers arrival, we called LG customer service at 1-800-243-0000. After exhausting the customary technical support protocols, the telephone representative referred us to an authorized LG technician, who came to our house on June 2nd. The technician could not reproduce the noise while running the empty washer in test mode, but, after watching a cell phone video of our malfunctioning washer, confirmed that the noise was abnormal and decided to consult with the LG engineers in Huntsville, AL. On June 9, the technician came back out to test the washers motor and verified that it was working appropriately. However, that time he was able to reproduce the noise and determined that it was a faulty bearing, for which he scheduled another repair appointment and warned us that he would have to essentially rebuild our washing machine. Following an off the record recommendation by the technician, who agreed that the problem with our new washing machine constituted a major defect, but was unwilling to put his contract with LG at risk by stating it in writing, we called LG the next day. We spoke with Leroy Ritchie, a supervisor in the executive department, and suggested that the early onset of the problem and the extent of the necessary repair warranted the replacement of the washer with a new machine. However, he adamantly asserted that, to abide by the warranty terms, LG was only compelled to send the technician and accomplish the repair. Therefore, after having to reschedule due to replacement parts that arrived damaged from the factory, on June 25 the technician performed a 3-hour repair, replacing the rear outer tub with bearings, the rotor assembly, the stator, and the inner basket tub assembly, at a $781.40 cost to LG. The original rattling noise is less apparent after the repair, but only because it is now obscured by a symphony of new noises and vibrations that reverberate throughout the entire house when running a laundry load. Consequently, we immediately contacted the technician, who referred us back to LG. Now, after several calls to LG, three visits from an authorized technician, and an unsuccessful repair priced at 75% of the washers value, we are waiting for another technician to assess a problem that started less than a month from acquiring the top washing device on the market From our meticulous online research, we certainly expected more from LG. UPDATE (07/18/2015): After submitting this review to Amazon.com and the BBB site (it was rejected from the LG site!), LG contacted us to replace our faulty washing machine with a new unit.

I have been living it cheap apartments for a long time, so having my own washer/dryer was never really possible due to lack of hook-ups. I'm 1) too cheap, 2) too lazy, and 3) have a rambunctious toddler so going to the laundry center or laundromat was like getting dental surgery. I initially bought a $75 twin-tub model&nbsp;<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/Giantex-Portable-Mini-Washing-Machine-Gravity-Drain-Compact-Twin-Tub-7-7lb-Washer-Spinner-Furni/dp/B06XKDYD4S/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">Giantex Portable Mini Washing Machine Gravity Drain Compact Twin Tub 7.7lb Washer Spinner Furni</a>&nbsp;where you had to wash, then manually move over and spin, then rinse, then manually move over and spin... It worked but it was a pain in the behind. When that finally kicked the bucket (because I am awful, awful, awful about overloading the machine) I decided to spend a little more and get this fully automatic portable washing machine. You guys - seriously. Get this thing if you need a washer. I'm soon going to be moving to an apartment that DOES have washer/dryer hook-ups and this works so well I'm planning to continue using it. It does 3-4 days worth of clothes for me and my son in 1 load. I can wash my full size sheets at home. It washes towels fine but I don't do that often because I dislike hang-drying towels. (I have not tried comforters or blankets in it.) A couple of things to look out for: 1) If you need to move this often (say, you're hiding it in a closet when not in use because you're not supposed to have it, coughcough), buy the recommended furniture dolly. Those wheels are laughable. 2) The included "quick adapter" kinda sucks. There isn't really a way to have both that AND an aerator on your sink. Plus, it's very long, so if you don't have an unusually high faucet head, it's gonna get tough to wash your hands. I bought a diverter and a plumbing-to-garden-hose adapter and installed those on my shower head. When I need to use it I just push a button to switch the water flow through the diverter and screw on the hose. 3) Don't... don't try to drain this into a bathroom sink. There is too much water pumping out of the machine too quickly and you are likely to flood your bathroom. I rest the drain over the tub. 4) The power cord isn't comically short, but it was way too short for the way my bathroom is set up. You will probably need a 2-foot or so extension cord unless your outlet is right next to your water source/draining location. 5) Lint. This machine is very convenient in that it is fully automatic and functions just like a full-size machine, but if you're hang-drying, you should expect some lint on your clothes. It was also slightly less effective at spin-drying than the twin tub machine I used to use. Clothes still air-dry indoors in roughly 4-6 hours or overnight. I'm so pleased with this machine and it has made my life a million times easier. It was a little more than I wanted to pay, strictly speaking, but if we're going by the rates I'd have to pay at a laundromat, it's already paid for itself. Just buy it.

Aesthetics: So very eye pleasing with no controls that can be bumped or but not reset by a passerby. With two curious American Bulldogs, that was a must. The slate finish doesn't show finger prints. I LOVE my stainless steel. I don't love a stainless steel dishwasher. I cannot tell you how many time I would open the dishwasher with wet finger or greasy fingers and bemoan that I would have to clean it YET AGAIN. It actually was a ritual, keep as many dishes in the sink, load the dishwasher 1 time before running it, clean the dishwasher, unload it, clean it again. I could pull my hair out. The finish has completely alleviated that frustration. No more dishes in the sink either! Features: the top rack can actually accommodate my full size day to day dishes!! Seriously. Granted they are light weight and in some cases plastic, I can get so much in this thing, it's incredible. The top basket easily maneuvers to either accommodate those dishes on the top or slides up to let me put in a full size cookie sheet. I really love the sanitize feature as well. It almost feels like appliance abuse, but if we use our dishwasher for more than dishes (make sure dishwasher or autoclave safe) My rose pruners get sanitized in this, nail clippers, scissors, anything that touches either plant or person that can be sanitized goes in here. As a super nerdy chick, I had to see if sanitized was really sanitized. To that effect, I put my nail clippers in, and swabbed them after the cycle. The swab was swabbed into some agar and set to let grow what will be there (it's like the middle school experiment where you swabbed your school desk to see how gross it is) Guess what. No contaminates grew after 48 or 72 hours. That's really sanitized!!! The wash cycle can be set to either the top or bottom only which adds convenience for those little loads. The entire interior is stainless steel, not plastic, which means, it won't readily absorb odors. This is both good and bad. Good: you know of your dishwasher is clean because it doesn't smell Bad: you've never had a dirty dishwasher smell and this REEKS to high heaven and you don't know how to make it stop stinking. Here's the solution to that "bad". In the bottom of the tub is an easy access filter that with a 1/4 turn comes out. Rinse that thing off (I do it everytime I wash) and pop it back in. Poof! Smells are gone. It's not time consuming and I treat it like the lint filter in my dryer. It's easy when that's your mentality. Hook up was very simple and this unit, unlike many others, comes with a new drain hose. You WILL NEED a elbow connector that is not provided. A quick trip to lowes with the manual and they plucked one off of a nearby shelf. They are well aware of this as MANY new units need it to install. How quiet is 48 dbs?? The manual says its like hearing the rain outside. Great because the rain is only ever one volume... It's like a gentle rain or the printer in the adjacent office working that you o lay hear if the air conditioner is off. It really is very quiet. So quiet that I actually made my husband pull it out because I heard the water dripping down the drain and thought the unit was leaking. My favorite little part: the "all done" chime. Like a sweet little song, it chimes that it's done and the light that was once orange (depicted in my pictures) is now green.

Why is it that the ability to fix a fridge that kept freezing up here in the office is more impressive to my colleagues than the work I actually get paid to do? Bloody engineers... Regardless, it rescued a perfectly good 4 year old fridge from being tossed out. So, three things* that can go wrong - the heating element can be burned out, the thermostat can have failed, or the timer / control board may have failed. Once you have determined which it is, then order the replacement part. *Actually, there are more than three things, but these are the most typical fail points if your cooling system is functioning properly and your door seal is in good shape. >> Remember to unplug the fridge before doing any diagnostics unless you like getting shocked and possibly permanently damaged or killed. << The heating element is a simple ohm check with between 30 and 50 ohms typical of a good element. Infinite resistance means a dead coil. The thermostat is also simple to check. Unclip it from the coils and use a continuity tester and a cup of hot and one of ice water - It should switch open after soaking for a minute in the hot water and switch closed after a minute soak in the cold. If it doesn't, replace it. The timer / controller is a bit more tricky, but if the above two things are good, then you'll need to do more research than this review can provide. I suggest starting your diagnostics work in the evening, because the coils will probably be a massive chunk of ice that will need to thaw out overnight. Also, the drip tray will probably not hold all the resulting water, so a few strategically placed towels (vinyl flooring) or a baking sheet placed under the tray (wood flooring) may keep you from discovering a large puddle in the morning. You'll need to empty your freezer, pull out all the brackets, shelves and ice maker, to get to and remove the back sheet covering the evaporator coils* in the freezer. For this, you'll probably need a 1/4" socket, and slot and Philips screw drivers. If you are lucky, you'll be able to get to the heating element (at the bottom of the coils) and the wires running to everything will not be embedded in the ice. If not, put all your frozen food in your cooler chest along with a bag of ice, prop the freezer door open and go to bed. * Have a care not to nick or puncture those coils, so don't go poking with an ice pick or screw driver to "speed things up." If you do, things just got really expensive. Better to let the ice melt naturally with the freezer door propped open. Use a hair dryer on low setting if you are in a hurry. So, you have access and have done your diagnostics and determined it is the thermostat, Congratulations, you've already done the hard work. It took you longer to get to the thermostat than it will to replace it. Now, put the coil cover/back sheet in place and load all your food back into the freeze, then plug the fridge back in - it will keep things cold while you wait for the thermostat you just ordered to arrive. Once it arrives, you'll need to have two butt end crimp connectors or wire nuts handy along with a wire nipper/stripper. Simply cut the wires close to the old thermostat, strip the the insulation back and connect the new thermostat in place of the old one. Clip it back to the coils, tuck the wires out of the way of the fan and put everything back in place. See, you too can impress those around you with your mad fridge fixing skills.

This is a terrific washer and I couldn't be happier with the choice. Here's why... About 5 years ago, I purchased my previous washer -- an LG front-load washer, which produced mediocre but acceptable results in cleaning my laundry for the first 3 years. Then I began experiencing the "negatives" of owning a front-load washer, which you can read about in the reviews here:&nbsp;<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/LG-WM2016CW-Front-Load-Washer/dp/B000OGS2OG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">LG WM2016CW Front Load Washer</a> We limped along with our previous washer for about 2 years until its inadequate capacity, time-consuming maintenance demands, and abysmal cleaning ability prompted us to take advantage of some good sale prices to replace it. This is why we chose this washer: -Impressive 4.8 cu ft capacity. Only comparable one larger was a GE model that was 40% more expensive for another .2 cu ft. -Made in USA -Time-tested brand with prolific parts and maintenance support -It's a top loader! For me, this means no crouching down with my 8-mo pregnant frame to retrieve clothes, no locking bolts to store in case the washer must be moved, no fecund mold colonies populating (and staining) the door seal, and it is ACTUALLY child-proof, unlike my LG. -High efficiency, low water usage, energy star rated. Some tips to help you decide if this is the washer for you: I read MANY reviews on this (and similar items) on several sites, and I noticed there were many spectacular reviews and many viciously negative reviews, with few in-between. Most of the highly rated reviews stated it was important to read the manual, while none of the negative reviews I read mentioned they had followed instructions in the manual while encountering whatever aspect of the machine they judged to be substandard. I'm not sure if this was the determinative factor of user satisfaction, but nevertheless I made sure I read the instructions, and all of my loads of clothes have come out clean and fresh. I have not had a problem with wrinkles that some people mention, and I make sure to set the machine for the type of fabrics I'm washing. This washer is incredibly quiet. I have heard it buzz a bit once when it was rebalancing a load of oddly matched items, but usually I have to open the door to the laundry room to see if it's still running. It is a tall washer (and dryer). If you have a storage shelf above your existing W/D, consider the height of these items in your planning. I have a shelf than can be folded up to retrieve clothes, but I think I'm going to end up moving it, because (per the instruction manual, again) the washer lid should be left up to allow the wash tub to dry. It's a small feature, but I like the light in the wash tub. It lets me find all the baby socks in the bottom of the basin, casts a nice glow in the laundry room, and shuts off automatically after a few minutes. In summary, I have no complaints about this washer to date. If I encounter any points of interest, I will be sure to update this post at a later time.

I bought this range hood because our old one did not move enough air to keep asthma symptoms from flaring when we were baking or cooking meat on the stove top. The Kobe hood did move a lot of air - although not enough to prevent kitchen smells diffusing through the house. Our problem, however, was with an annoying high-pitch noise (intermittent but frequent) that I thought sounded like a bearing in the motor. I contacted Kobe's service department and, as requested, provided them a recording of the fan running at different speeds to produce the noise it was making. The Kobe's service rep then advised me that the noise was that the two fans were imbalanced, and he sent me two new ones with instructions to install them. After I installed the new fans, it sounded OK at first, but soon started making the same high-pitch noise. The service rep suggested that I check some other things, but these seemed to be beyond my abilities so I asked for a service technician to come out and fix the problem. Kobe had a local appliance repair firm send out a technician, who said almost immediately that both fan motors had bad bearings. Kobe sent the repair firm two new motors, and the technician came back and installed them. However, these new motors were making the same noise that the old ones did, and the technician called the Kobe service department and left them a message to call him. Kobe did not call him; rather, they contacted me to make some additional recordings, including some video and send it to them. After several days delay, they did contact the service technician saying that they had tested the new motors before sending them along. Apparently, they tested them at only the highest speed, which was not where the noise presented a problem. At the highest speed the fan and rushing air made enough noise to mask the problem sound coming from the motors. By that time - more than six weeks after the fan had been installed - I was debating with myself on whether I wanted to continue struggling with this Kobe fan or to take a monetary loss (by then the return period for Amazon had been exceeded) and buy a different range hood. I decided that a range hood that gives me this much trouble when it is brand new could be a long-term struggle with little to no satisfaction. I sent an email to Amazon asking what my alternatives were for this faulty product I had bought through them, and they replied that although the return period had already been exceeded, I could return the range hood and get most of the purchase cost returned. Accordingly, I bought a new hood from Amazon, in part because the local dealers either did not carry the model of Broan hood I wanted or would have to special order it. This experience cost me a couple of months and about $150 of the purchase price (presumably the cost of shipping the return) in addition to about $250 for installation. So, now I have a new range hood that is virtually identical to the old one that I got rid of when I bought the Kobe, and it moves about 450 cfm at high speed. I recommend that you think very hard whether or not you want to take the risk on a Kobe hood if you're inclined toward buying one because it could cost you, as it did me, a lot of time and money in the long run. I emphasize that my dissatisfaction is directed only toward Kobe, particularly their service department for not working more closely with the service technician they hired to resolve my problem rather than sending instructions for additional actions that I could take so they could second guess the technician. I am happy with Amazon's role in this affair because they were willing to reduce my loss on the faulty product from Kobe.

Currently, there are seven 1-star reviews. . .and no 5-star reviews. So I guess my five-star review will be the first. Im not sure if the other reviews are for a different model or what the situation is. Mine is for the WM3050CW. I know for a fact that this is the model that I have. First of all . . . It should be noted. . . I see on the Amazon listing that it shows steam wash. The WM3050CW does NOT have steam wash. A little background. . .. I purchased this LG washer to replace an Asko washing machine that I had. The one thing that I liked more about the Asko is that it uses only cold water, and then it will heat the water to whatever temperature you want. Of course thats not the case with LG. It uses the water from your hot water heater. But the Asko tub was quite small. Asko is also VERY expensive. Finally, its nearly impossible to get someone to work on Asko machines, and I live in a large city (Atlanta). Ive been using my LG WM3050CW for about 8-months and I LOVE it. . . and heres why: The tub is HUGE! I joke with my friends that you could almost fit an elephant in it! I actually do laundry less frequently because the tub is so large, I don't have to. Again. . . speaking of the large tub. . . I do bulky items like a down comforter with no problem! There is even a bulky setting! No longer do I have to go to a commercial laundry to do bulky items. FYI. . . There is no jumping around of the machine because the tub is of-kilter. It knows when to stop. . .readjust. . . and start spinning again. This machine uses a lot less water. But. . . If you're like me. . .There is a button to press so that it uses a little more water, just for good measure. If you're not familiar with front-load washers. . . .you use a LOT less detergent than with top-load washers. You just have to make sure that you use a detergent which is for HE or top-load washers. If you use the wrong detergent, or too much detergent, youll have a problem with sudsing. But you certainly save $$ on detergent. This machine has a lot of different options. Water temperature. . . .spin cycle. .. .. amount of water. . . how dirty your laundry is . . . and so on. Plenty of options. One thing that is great about this machine is the fact that there is a magnet where you close the door, but not all the way, so it allows air in so that the tub doesnt have mold or mildew. This has been an issue in the past with front-load washers. There is also a tub clean cycle. Granted, Ive never had to use this feature. . . but. . . .if you have a problem, there is an app you download, then transfer information from your washing machine to the app to troubleshoot the problem before a service technician is called. Again, Ive never had an issue . . . so I haven't had to use this feature. . .but I think its cool just the same. Ive been using front-load washers for well over 20-years. WAY before front-load washers were popular. First with Asko, and now with LG. Im in love with this washer.

I bought it not at amazon but at local retail store. Looks nice, works fine, but I can say nothing about reliability because I installed it just a few days ago. My old range-hood was extremely noisy comparing to this one, but if you think this range-hood is so silent that it could barely be heard than you are wrong. It does produce quite a bit of noise but it sounds more like noise of the rushing air than like electric motor. Our old range hood had regular 60 watt bulb and we had a very bright light over our kitchen range. This range hood comes with two sort-of LED pot-lights that produce less light and illuminate only front part of the range. These LED lights look sexy but they are very insufficient for us. About eliminating bad smell from your house: My old range hood was probably around 100 cfm and it was practically useless in removing bad smell from the kitchen; this range hood is rated as 720 cfm and if you think it completely eliminates any smell spreading from you kitchen to the rest of your house - than you are wrong. This range hood certainly does better job by removing more smelly air to the outside but when my wife bakes in the oven (for eggplant salad) chunks of onions, chunks of eggplants and garlic the smell of this still spreads around the house. Two things are worthy to mention here. First, if your AC or furnace is ON than the blower fan will cause an air circulation in your house causing smelly air from your kitchen to spread all over your house. So, you are better to turn OFF your AC or furnace when you are cooking really smelly stuff. Second, if you have doors in your kitchen than close them when cooking smelly stuff and running the range hood it will help a lot. If your kitchen doesnt have doors and you hope than $1000 investment into this range hood will completely eliminate any smell in your house originated from the kitchen than you will waste $1000. About installation: First, it has so-called knockouts for screws/bolts (and knockout for wires on electrical box). These are not real knockouts and you cannot knock them out using screwdriver and hummer, don't even try or you will damage the unit. These knockouts are only to indicate where to drill the holes for the screws/bolts; yes to drill in stainless steel (and installation instructions clearly state it). So, you have to have (or buy) drill bits capable of drilling through stainless steel. Second, it is much heavier than less expensive range-hoods. Alone you cannot hold it and screw it to your kitchen cabinet - you must have someone else helping you. Third, it arrives prewired so that wires come out from the top of the range-hood. I used these wires to wire the range hood and I didn't drill hole in electrical box (to connect wires inside it). Rewiring of this unit looks really challenging. Wires coming out from the top originate from the electrical box (inside the unit) and they are attached with clamps to the back wall deep inside of the range hood. I did not try, but I think it would require removing both motors and fans to rewire this unit. Also, instructions assert that first thing after opening a packaging box (and before doing anything with the unit like drilling holes or you cannot return the unit) the unit has to be powered and tested (both fans and lights) and these prewired wires come very handy (I used them to test the unit).

This is my first GE dishwasher and it replaced a Maytag I've had for about 12 years. I don't live in this home full time so the Maytag had only 5-6 years on it and I've been fixing it every couple of months recently for one reason or the other, so when replacing it, Maytag was not even in the running. I began researching and some things about this caught my eye. The steam pre-wash sounded good and really works good, coupled with GE's claim of 65% higher wash power than previous models and 3 wash arms, this does an excellent job of cleaning on everything I've put into it. It loads up very well but you have to remember that you've been using your old one for years, so it will be awkward at first trying to find the best place for familiar dishes in an unfamiliar rack. The stainless steel inside the door is a pleasure to see in comparison to stained plastic and just gives gives you confidence that it's a well built machine. The door itself is very light and doesn't manually latch, just push it shut and pull it open. This is a tall tub, so it has more interior room than what it replaced and yet it slid right in when I installed it which took me about an hour. The top rack is height adjustable and comes with snap in grids to hang wineglasses. With it adjusted up the lower rack will accept tall items, almost 14 inches. This has two silverware baskets across the front, top and bottom and you can put utensils into the handle holder slots or lift the holders and fill the basket or a combination of. I use the holders to keep them separated and I've never had my silverware cleaned so well. I've added an image to show you the baskets and door and I see you need to go to the top of this page and look below the picture to click on it and see. It has a system to grind up food, there's a stainless steel blade that rotates at 3,600 RPM to pulverize food particles and helps to prevent large particles from clogging the wash arms These are the highlights but after installing it I had a surprise. It didn't seem to work, I started it and lights came on but there were no knocks and hums and backfires and my counter wasn't throbbing...so I opened the door...and it had been running! I still walk past it shaking my head and hope the quiet little alarm never quits working because I don't want to have to open the door just to see if it's finished. So to sum it up...it looks good, it cleans good, they've eliminated the possibility of rust by using nylon and stainless steel and it's quiet. I'm sure there are better dishwashers available, but for about $600 this works quite well and seems to be a good value, I've been very happy with it for 4 months now. [Purchased at Home Depot, who delivered and disposed of the old machine inexpensively and would have installed too.] Warranty Terms - Parts 1 year limited____________Steam Cleaning........Yes Warranty Terms - Labor 1 year limited____________Decibel Level...........52dBA Height......................34"________________________Nylon Rack Material...Yes Width.......................23-3/4"_____________________Adjustable Racks......Yes Weight.....................76 pounds__________________Tall Tub Design.........Yes Depth......................24"________________________Delay-Start Option....Yes Hard Food Disposer...Yes______________________Cycles........................4 Heated Drying...........Yes_______________________Spray/Wash Levels....3 Estimated Yearly Operating Cost $29 with an electric water heater; $24 with a natural gas water heater Additional specifications at geappliances.com

This is way better than what I'm used to. I bought this because my old combo washer/dryer just had too many things wrong with it and getting parts was impossible. It was the second machine in 20 years and I had fixed it numerous times. It was running crippled, but running. The last straw was when the front door had to be propped closed with a 2x4 because the latch broke, I couldn't buy a new latch, and my better half didn't want me to make one. I decided that the combo units were basically washers with some kind of drying design add ons, so this time I went for separate units. I was willing to trade off space for efficiency and durability. This dryer got here super fast, was undamaged, installed easily, and works great. I was a little put off by a mechanical timer in a modern unit, and the push button switch looks cheesy too, but it dries big loads in a short period and gets them nice and dry. It can do some towels in an hour whereas the other machine would take 4. (4 hours drying for towels may seem long but these are 110v dryers) Compared to the combo units dryers, this thing is way better. The clothes tumble much better inside making the drying operation faster and using less power. It moves more air through the clothes than my other unit did. It is noisier than I expected, but ok for a laundry room. It is also larger than it looks in the picture. The drum is as large as you could fit in the box. It takes surprisingly big loads. It has an air inlet filter and an exhaust lint filter. The manual instructs you to clean them each time you dry. Ummm. No. The lint filter pulls off the back of the drum and is about 6" in diameter or so and consists of 3 pieces. It all snaps in place on the drum. I can see that long term the plastic on the snap will wear out and the part will have to be replaced. I'm doing what another reviewer does and using a portable vacuum to clean out the filters. It comes with wall mount brackets, and the exhaust port is set up to put the hot air out at a 90 degree angle instead of straight out. This is in case you use the wall mounts. They space the unit far enough out from the wall to accommodate. Workmanship? I have no basis for comparison. It seems sturdy. The feet don't have locknuts and have flanges that make adding them a pain. Just a couple of things and they would have it right. Redesign the filter and get it nice feet - adjustable with locknuts and grippy bottoms. I've only had it for a week, but so far it gets 5 stars. Not like a 220v unit, but almost. Now let's see how many years it lasts. Update 1 year later: This dryer has saved me a lot of money. It dries fairly large loads quickly so it saves power and time. It's much faster than the other 110 volt dryers I've used in the past and leaves clothes nice and fluffy. It is not a high heat unit like the big boys but it also won't damage any clothes that are delicate or elastic. It recently broke a belt - the one driving the air pump. It has a safety mechanism to prevent it from overheating if this happens. The company that sells it - Versonel - sent me a new one quickly. It was an easy install. It still gets 5 stars.

It's ok. Had some real difficulties installing it. I'm assuming the others who wrote reviews had someone else install it. I had several issues which I'll detail below. 1) Instructions were a joke. The basic order of operations was fine but they suggest weird things like using metal screws and anchors when drilling into wood. You'll need to do some improvising here as well because: 2) No hardware is included. That's right, no screws, no anchors, nuts, washers, nothing at all. Every single wall screw or even the screws for internal parts you will need to provide yourself. The included instructions do list out all the hardware you'll need but that's a problem as well because: 3) The screws they suggest you use in the instructions are incorrect or too big. Not even kidding. They suggest drilling into a stud to attach the hood (obviously) but also suggest doing it with M5 metal screws. Like, what the hell?? (In case you don't know, you would never ever use M metal screws to attach something to wood as it wouldn't stay) And the screws that attach the top of the stainless column to the wall bracket also suggests M5 screws. This seems reasonable but no, M5 screws are WAY too wide. I couldn't even get M4 screws to fit. M4 might actually be the right size but metal screws have the wrong pitch for something so thick so nope, not gonna work. No way. I ended up using some galvanized screws in that area and all went fine. 4) Draws no air. Like, none. The fan has 4 speeds but even on the highest one the motor roars but no suction is felt. So I pull out the filters and feel the 6" wide intake at the motor and there is barrrrrely any suction. Now disperse that tinnnny bit of suction across the actual face of the unit where everyday air is being pulled and you quickly realize just how useless this hood is. No. Suction. 5) Pro or con, depending on your preference but the LED clock is crazy bright! Pics in these reviews really don't do it justice. No way to dim it that I know of. I would say if you need an actual hood to draw air and function is a priority, DO NOT buy this one. If you're more like us and not so worried about air movement and the hood is almost more of a looks/space filler, go for it. UPDATE: The clock does not work. It lights up and all but never changes from 12:00. Called support and they're sending a new display and motherboard that I'll need to replace. UPDATE 2: New parts arrived. They told me it would just be a matter of unplugging the old parts and plugging in the new ones. Not quite. After about 2 hours of work I have everything plugged in but now the lights don't turn on and the icons on the display don't light up on the right side. This is infuriating. UPDATE 3: Using all the parts I now possess I was able to find a correct combination of motherboards, wiring, and lighting pieces that I was able to get it all working. I also bought something else here on amazon for $7.99 to dim the outrageously (and literally painful to look at) bright blue clock. Amazon won't let us post links but it's called "Dim It Light Dimming Sheets". I cut out a piece of that to cover the clock and it's perfect now. The company also commented that the hardware was supposed to be included with the unit so your mileage may vary there.

I bought this set locally three years ago and should have gone with my gut and returned it the first week. But my husband thought it would be too much hassle and told me maybe we just have to get used to having an HE machine and the different way it cleans. Really, really should have sent these right back. Three years later, I cannot SELL this set, still working "fine", on Craigslist for $500. Nobody wants HE machines, because they are shiny, fancy, pieces of junk. The washer barely fills with water. I use the extra water function, and with that it sort of puts in enough water, sometimes. Many times I'll find clothes sticking up out of the water, and not moving around enough to actually be submerged. I have stood there and watched this washer work, thinking, "Okay, these clothes cannot possibly be getting clean." And they really weren't. Odors do not come out of clothes unless you put it on a soak, and the heaviest settings with the most water, taking up to 2 hours of wash time. We also have to use the most expensive Tide and Downy available to have any hope of the clothes smelling okay. And even then at times they still smell musty or not clean. Sweat odors also do not come out well. And why have a huge capacity washer if you can't fill it full with clothes? Smaller loads need to be washed to have any hope of them coming out somewhat clean smelling. The spin is so harsh that it literally twists up the clothing and ties everything in knots. Sometimes I have to untie legs of pants and tights and shirt sleeves to get them out. And then, everything is permanently twisted into wrinkles that the dryer can't even get out. Any little problem with the weight of your items will unbalance the washer, and you have to go in and try to make the washer happy. It isn't easy. The lid locks, so throwing in a last minute washcloth or sock is a pain to wait for it to unlock, then relock, then rebalance, then restart. In a nutshell, this washer will clean your clothes halfway, and wrinkle them double. As a side note, an appliance guy told me today that if you put clothes that have been washed for awhile in an HE machine into an old fashioned machine without soap, the old fashioned load will end up full of suds because of all the soap that the HE machine leaves behind! Because HE machines don't really "rinse", they just sort of squirt off the clothes. The dryer is okay, except that we had to get the seal repaired after the first year. Plus, it doesn't always dry quite right, and of course it can't possibly dry out all the wrinkles put in by the crazy washer it comes with. Oh and the finish on the top does not wear well. It scratches super easily, especially if you tend to put laundry baskets on top like we do. After three years the tops of these look pretty bad. And all the plastic parts in and around the machine end up very yellowed and yucky looking. After owning this set for three years, we have had enough. Expensive lesson learned...learn from our mistake! We went today and bought a SQ set....old fashioned, dials, plenty of water, no frills, well made set. I can NOT wait to wash all of our dingy clothes in a REAL washing machine!

It's a daunting prospect to order a large item like this, sight unseen, from a seller you've never heard of. Well, it turned out spectacularly! Delivery was fast and the shipping company helped me inspect it before I signed for it (which was an absolute requirement of the seller). It sat in my entryway for about a month before I could get my brother-in-law over to help me install it. Also, I had aluminum wiring to the oven (not the '60s era aluminum branch wiring) which is more common than you may think... so I had to research the correct way to attach the copper leads to the aluminum (NOT wire nuts - actual Cu to Al junction blocks insulated with "splicing" tape and electrical tape - check codes if you encounter this). The wiring conduit was not very long and would have made for a difficult install, so I removed the conduit from the oven I was replacing and put it on this oven - doubling the length (Fridigaire really should add a couple more feet to their conduit). My oven cutout appeared to be the perfect size for this oven until I realized a showstopper - the existing electrical box was mounted at the back of the cutout, but took up 1 1/2" of depth that this oven would need to slide all the way in. I had to remount the box to the top of the opening (behind the much shallower microwave part) and I was fortunate that there was enough house wiring there to allow this to happen... it was close! This is a big, heavy unit (about 250 lbs.) and I believe that during shipping, the microwave part twisted slightly relative to the oven - the top unit was about 1/2" out of line with the bottom. Physical wrenching wouldn't work, so I had to remove the microwave and actually drill out the metal attachments to get the units to line up properly. A bit of extra work, but probably expected for a job like this. Once lifted into the cutout, it slid back easily and was secured with just two screws! And it looks great! And the best part... I love my new oven and microwave! The unit it replaced was a GE from 1986, so the microwave is FAR more powerful and the digitally-controlled oven has features (like probe cooking) that I now can't live without. When a recipe says "heat to an internal temperature of 165 degrees", I immediately pull out the probe and let 'er go! Tell the oven to bake until the probe says it's 165, and then the oven goes into a "keep warm" mode until you get your perfectly-cooked food out. Man, I didn't know what I was missing! Really love this. And there's all the other things this features, like convection cooking and self cleaning. And a nice, LOUD alarm on the oven. Then they go and put the most feeble buzzer imaginable on the microwave... so low that I can't hear it (although a woman friend could - barely). Don't know why they couldn't have used the same buzzer that was on the oven, but they didn't. BUT the microwave is so powerful and cooks so evenly, that I'll give Frigidaire a pass on that. But FIX IT, folks. Very pleased with my purchase and the product is amazing. One of the best larger purchases I've made this year!

Bought the range (gas top,electric oven) with the hope it would be an answer to my cooking dreams. I was unable to see this range before purchasing and had to go off of pictures and measurments from online and mfg. My background is having worked in the food industry as a chef for a few years in private country clubs. After that job I have been doing remodel jobs off and on for about 20 years. I read past problematic reviews with older models and had hoped they had solved their problems. The range arrived in great condition. My kitchen is being remodled thank god because this range is not really designed to be put on a slab foundation. There is no room behind the range when installed except about a 2 inch channel along the left side for a flexable gas pipe. There is no room for the electrical so you will have to drop your electrical to ground level to clear oven. This may be a problem for some inspectors so you will have to use waterproof boxes and conduit. Gas pipe has to be exactly placed due to no room to place that or again you will have to put it at ground level or plan on not having this range flush with the wall. After I got through all of that I find a wiring bundle running over sharp stainless with one of the wires already scraped. One of the bundles was in a rubber washer but this bundle wasn't. I called the mfg and discussed the problems, they could care less. Same goes with the installation problems. I guess they figure if you don't have a subfloor tough. Finally get it installed and go to attach wiring. The phenolic wiring block which has to be flipped if you use a direct wire, it falls apart into two pieces when unscrewed. .As it has two screws holding it in I was still able to install it. Complete the gas and electric and fire it up. The center burner igniter continues to spark when at simmer. The convection fan causes so much vibration that the cast iron grates rattle. The noise is incredible. This is noisier than a commercial large oven. Can you say jet taking off. And one of the reasons I bought this range was the variable speed convection speed. The racks don't look right to me. The top one is very close to the top and there is about 4 inches before the first rack on the bottom. No way you are going to be able to use the upper rack except for biskets or cookies if cooking a turkey. There is no bottom heating element exposed and being a convection oven the lower rack could have been put several inches closer to the bottom. Another call to the mfg who over the phone says it is not right so they give me some repair people to call. At this point it is a week or so before thanksgiving. The repair person shows up and checks it out and says it must be because it was ordered online. Right, new in box and somehow that caused all the problem. Found another repair person who came out and agreed it was installed ok and the problems will need parts ordered, should take two or three weeks. What a joke. This range has been out for a while but it has now been 6 weeks and the mfg who will not drop ship to the repair person says still no parts because it is a new range model. So I have this great looking range sitting on the floor taking up space waiting for parts. Will try to update if the parts ever arrive.

Ok, first I have to say that the experience with Living Direct and the website Kegerator.com were I bought the appliance is very good. They are very professional, and always ready to help you out and fix the hardware/software problem you may have, instantly, and without questions. After I had this kegerator for a bit more than a month, I am ready to write a detailed review, in order to help other people to consider better choices than I did. the kegerator in question came with a door all dented, promptly living direct sent me a new door with no question. Thumbs up with them. 2) the door gasket was not sealed well, and caused the back cooling pipes to build ice in less than few days and the unit wasn't working properly anymore (not cooling enough), and I lost a 1/6 keg of precious beer because it didn't taste good anymore. The technical support from Edgestar told me that is normal the buildup of ice, which is not for a unit like this, because really impact significantly to the overall performance of the unit, especially if kept outside in Florida. 3) when I did install the new door finally things got better, but I still can see the new gasket doesn't seal completely, so probably there is still some more overwork to the compressor, so I may have to use the warranty later on. 4) if you pay attention to the stainless steel aluminum frame it is very very thin and on the top surface I can still see a lot of imperfections and dents. This is indicative that the material is very cheap and (not even close to the aluminum frame of a common aluminum refrigerator). 5) if in any case you lose power, during power outages just for few seconds, the units starts up and lose the temperature settings (back to default 43-45 deg.). IF THE POWER IS OFF FOR MORE THAN FEW SECONDS AND COMES BACK, THE UNIT DOES NOT TURN ON BY ITSELF, sorry I did write this in all caps but it is necessary to know. So consider what happens when you come back after a long day of work and find your kegerator off. 6) the unit says that it pushes air anteriorly (which is not true) for a better built-in construction, the air, instead, is getting pushed laterally to the sides (so be careful not to have other appliances to the sides). 7)The unit comes only with 1 year of warranty and considering the price, considering that is not a commercial grade, there were other better choices around, with 5 years of warranty included, better quality of construction (inside-outside thick stainless steel), and better hardware fidelity (that actually turns back on during power outages). For obvious reasons, and being respectful of this opportunity to share my experience on this website, I can't be more specific about brands, but let just say that there are better choices with commercial grades not more expensive than this and with less troubles. 8) the little string that is provided to hold the CO2 tank inside it is too small for the diameter of the CO2 thank, and I am very surprised that they didn't correct this issue, because reading other review it looks like I am not the only incurring on this problem. I give to the unit 2/5 stars because it looks good and keeps the beer cold with minimal foam. but the quality of the materials, the fact doesn't turn on when the power is back on after outages and /or can't save the temp. settings, only 1 year of warranty included is really bringing this unit down very much.

We purchased this dishwasher 3 weeks ago to replace a 5-year old Whirlpool that had begun leaking. First mistake: this "KitchenAid" dishwasher is made by Whirlpool. I never would've purchased the "premium" brand KitchenAid if I'd known it was made by the same people that made the poor unit it was replacing. The main problem with this dishwasher: the interior design is just terrible. Even though it's a standard size, the inside layout is so poor that we can't fit nearly the amount of dishes as any previous dishwasher we've had. The upper rack is adjustable to two different heights. If you set it on the upper setting, glasses won't fit in the upper rack because they bang into the silverware tray. If you set it on the lower setting, normal size plates won't fit in the lower rack. Which means you're basically hosed. We've spent 3 weeks trying every combination we can think of to fit in a standard load of plates and glasses, and it's just impossible. You can remove the silverware trays on the silverware rack, but you may as well then just buy a much cheaper dishwasher that doesn't have that feature. The store manager where we purchased it said to set one side of the upper rack high, and the other side low, so it would slide in "diagonally", allowing us to fit plates and glasses normally. But that won't work; the tabs that lock the rack into place won't engage if you try that. So you can just forget washing anything other than small cups and small plates in this dishwasher. Secondly, don't believe their hype about how "quiet" this dishwasher is. When it's washing, it's about as quiet as any regular dishwasher we've ever had (at probably less than half the price). But when the water is filling, which is frequently during the normal cycle, it's super loud. Loud enough to be heard in any room in the house. As for cleaning ability, it's about average on plates and glasses. We've tried silverware in both the upper tray, and in the removable holder on the lower rack, and silverware comes out less clean, and more spotty, in both locations compared to any other dishwasher we've ever had. The unit has a feature called "ProDry", which I guess is supposed to be a premium feature to ensure items come out dry despite the new energy efficiency standards which came into effect several years ago. But don't believe that one either: nothing that isn't loaded perfectly vertical, like a plate, comes out dry. We need to manually dry off probably half of the contents of each load, even after it's run overnight. Never had that problem in any previous dishwasher either. And the cycle time for normal wash is incredibly long. Almost 3 hours total, and then a fan runs for another few hours (assumedly to dry the items inside, which doesn't work). That fan is also loud enough to hear in the next room. Due to all these problems, we tried to return it just three days after it was installed, but the retailer wouldn't take it back. They said I would have to get approval from KitchenAid for that. So after over an hour on hold over the phone with KitchenAid, they told me I was out of luck, and they would not approve returning it, because it technically wasn't broken. The list price on this dishwasher is $1849. Obviously making it priced as an extremely high end unit. But as these problems make clear, this is an extremely poorly designed product. I wouldn't recommend it an even 1/3 of that price.

7/4/16 post - Oven 5 stars, Parts availability 1 star The oven works wonderfully. After one more call to the warranty company they found a part in the office and overnighted it to the local repairman. He did a wonderful job including scavenging a circuit off the old part to make the new part operable. Maybe there was a reason it was sitting in the managers office. To make a long story short The oven works fine. The convection is true European convection (ie an element can heat the convection air) and there are about 10 different cooking modes to operate the 4 elements. So far I have cooked pie crust, muffins, ribs and roast etc and all have worked above my expectation. Would I order it again. Definitely. It is the only oven on the market that has my desired features (side opening door, convection, fits in my kitchen) and in my price range. But get the extended warranty because this European company needs to work on customer service. It is is polite but not prompt. US manufactures need to get on the ball. Larger is not better and side open doors are often not a luxury - ADA needs them as an option. 6/16 post - I was excited to find this oven. We needed an oven that opened to the side (ADA issues), had convection and would fit in the space (all us brand ovens have grown to large for our fairly new kitchen cupboards.) The oven arrived 5 days after placing the order. We had a local electrician install it and it worked great for 2 hours. The 2nd time I turned the oven on POP a big blue spark and voila no oven just a large square of metal sitting in my kitchen. I called the warranty number 3/30 and filed a claim. It is now 6-15 and still no working oven. Problem # 1 no no response to my warranty request 6 weeks after my first warranty contact I followed up because no technician had contacted me (the long delay was partly my fault as I was unexpectedly away from home for 4 weeks, but there was no attempt to contact me during that time.) Problem #2 no local technicians. after a followup call a local technician was found who would do the warranty work but the warranty company wanted to send the probable part for the repair. OK Problem #3 part has not arrived After two emails stating that the part had been shipped and calls to the local technician determining that the part had not actually been shipped a follow up call to the warranty company determined that the part was not yet available and might take 3 to 4 weeks to get to their facility. This is already 10 weeks since the first warranty contact and 4 weeks from the email stating that the parts were on their way. Problem #4 Today after another follow up initiated by me I was told that there was no way to know when the part would arrive. Within an hour I got a call back and they have found a part in the managers office. It appears that this oven is sturdy meets all my requirements, the warranty folks have been kind, the local tech has always responded to my inquires quickly and with a helpful manor but the length of time I have been cooking only with a toaster oven has made this experience a nightmare. I will let you know when I have a working oven.