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when i graduated from college i was gifted a large format field cam with some developing equipment the unicolor rollers tank didnt have the small rubber piece that is used to separate the top and bottom layers of film in the past ive always just developed two sheets at a time out of desperation but id really like to find a replacement does anyone have even the slightest idea where to find a replacement or if you have one yourself would you be willing to send a photo andor measurements so i can attempt to 3d print something thanks in advance

i havent tested it wet yet but oddly this completely different clip seems to fit fine

i recently bought a new graflex that has less kibble on it than my last one thus making it lighter to handle which is huge for me who has hand and wrist issues so now i want to sell my olb graflex body but im having trouble pricing it since all the listings i see on ebay are for cameras with the lenses includes im keeping the lens this camera came with so does anyone have an idea of how to appropriately price the body itself

search graflex camera body only filter your results to sold just did it and results vary anywhere from 25 usd and up i would start there and match your set up to them most closely pro tip turn off the geolocation feature on your crown graphic when posting to the internet beautiful print darker imho thank you

i have kept these in an airtight pelican case for the past two years they range from very good to excellent condition some may still have sheet film in them i just dont want to go through the ebay thing and i would rather they go to someone who really needs them i will include a hama air release this is my way of supporting the community the first person to respond will get them so dm me your name address and phone and they will go out via usps priority mail i will mark this post as taken once i have a recipient i love photography i just have to get rid of things i dont use anymore wishing you all the best and happy shooting x200b

ahhhh i need some i sent you a message sent a dm youre the first please send me your name address and phone number for the mailing label and i will send these out to you congratulations and happy shooting taken thank you all for your interest thank you so much for your note the holders have been taken i wish you well thank you so much for your note the holders have all been taken wishing you all the best

is there a free fov simulator online or as an app where i can put in film size 6456x76x8 etc and different lens focal lengths to compare what the framing or fov would be like relative to each other

i use an app called viewfinder cant recall if its free but its fantastic gives you different fovs does a decent job of exposure metering and allows you to leave notes if you take a test shot

ive been a digital photographer for many years but i wanted to step into analog to rediscover my interest in photography so many fun challenges getting this all together i have nerve damage in my right hand so loading film holders in a film bag was ridiculous i had one frame where the camera fired on its own when i was halfway through pulling the dark slide out ended up making an interesting double exposure i scanned these by shooting them with a digital camera on a piece of glass with a flash behind it let me know your thoughts or if you have any tips cheers

great initial exposures even with the film loading issue super impressive you might want to consider a fill card in natural light like this cant wait to see your next shots thank you i was a bit surprised by how dark eyes got even in open shade a small bounce card or reflector will work wonders for that nice i have been shooting 4x5 now and then for the last 10 years but i never tried people i just never trust myself to be quick enough to focus on a ground glass close set the aperture cock the lens put the film in pull the dark slide and fire the lens while the model has to hold perfectly still all the time i am always quite impressed when people manage to do this the camera is a graflex most of the standing photos were slightly out but when i had her sit in the chair i was able to get it right on and not worry about her moving through the focal plane i also accented the light with a strobe to freeze the subject a bit just stumbled across these images really really nice job for a first time trying it all just wondering if you are still using your 45 camera months later and whether or not you still find it enjoyable thanks in advance for any answers you choose to provide this is really cool stuff congratulations on finding your way back to analog photography

i am starting to get into 4x5 and am thinking about getting a intrepid any comments

i do my first large format i like it hows the build quality i mean for how cheap it is i dont complain it is plywood everything locks into place and doesnt shift when i go to take a photo bellows are good extend out to do some macro work if need be focus is sharp when i dont mess up for my first attempts at large format and it being a hobby for me a more expensive camera would be a waste this is for an intrepid 8x10 but id check out matt marash on youtube the fact is there isnt a whole lot of new large format cameras being made anymore even less lenses also check out for what to look out for with used gear in large format they improved over time i have an mk2 and it is not so well made rough later versions are way better and have back tilt agreed ive borrowed a mk3 and it was okay depends on intended use i guess if i got it on a cheap deal i wouldnt mind owning one i recently wicked up a used wista 45sp for a great price so id suggest something similar to op if they dont mind the extra weight

graflex crown graphic sk symmar s 150mm f56 shanghai film diffused flash

pretty another gorgeous photograph youve got it dude you could sell some of your work i am betting check out the large format subreddit and post your stuff there also great work thanks redditfan26 i already subscribe to that group but somehow my submissions get stuck on waiting moderation approval and never show up boy that is a bummer i dont know why that would be maybe try posting to the analog subreddit too also maybe you could start a separate thread asking why that is something ive never tried doing i dont think is sending a message directly to a moderator it may be that your stuff gets eliminated by a spam filter or something and possibly the moderators at large format dont even know this is happening your work is so good i would think theyd be welcoming you with open arms they can use all of the high quality posters they can get i would think maybe you could send them a dm focus at infinity is overrated if you ask me when have you ever taken a photo when the subject was infinity meters away 8 i agree but infinity is the shortest extension you need even more extension to focus closer correct you got a beast of a lens its a tessar type design but it behaves well because it has a good coating its lovely for portraits and it has a very wide covarage so you can use tilt to the extremes i will try it soon

fuji velvia 100 anyone have any idea why its splotchy maybe light leak

thats a really lovely shot thank you nice image i say i need more splotchy

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i dont know how i missed this going by 5 months ago this is a really outstanding piece of work in my humble opinion if you never posted this over on the large format subreddit i think you should definitely do that not sure but i think that subreddit has a lot more subscribers to it and this photograph might get more of the attention it deserves i absolutely love the sharpness and details in this image i am wondering if you remember what the lighting setup was for this image thanks in advance for any comments you choose to make and for taking the time and trouble to post this image to reddit

i would love some input on which field camera to buy in terms of 4x5 i am a seminoob i very briefly owned a tachihara in the past and loved the cherrywood and brass knobs it was a joy to look at easy to pack and set up i should never have sold it ive also noticed though that the wista 45 looks almost identical here is the list of options i am considering if you have a right in nomination vote to add please do view poll

if i have learned anything from 4x5 its that cameras are suited to personalities so the the one that speaks to you i mean sure id love an ebony but im cheap and a crown graphic does everything i want it to 99 of the time bought the chamonix h1 and its a thing of beauty there are microdifferences in all the cameras which you have listed as field cameras the wista 45 last produced models were either the dx or the sw with removable bellows and wide angle bellows option if you are satisfied with the field camera wooden traditional limitations of movements and portability any of these will work as decent field cameras the chamonix 45 has more of a triple extension potential than the wista or shen haos double extension zone vi is very american market orientated and pricey although similar build quality to the rest of these competent field cameras your tachihara was an older design so theres very little difference between all the models which you have listed other than the microdifferences of focal length potential spirit levels movement capability and brand name its hard to recommend one over the other the chamonix is possibly the only one in production if you wish to have the benefit of ongoing support from the maker however not much goes wrong with these designs and the older models are more affordable and just as stable i have a wista 45 and love it as a field camera the only other setup ive used is the toyo 45 which is also great and a bit lighter i personally like the look and feel of the wista better it feels a bit more substantial unfortunately i havent used any others on your list what is the difference between the tachihara and the wistia they look the same so what is the general opinion of the zone vi no votes but looks good i dont know anything about te camera or who made it thanks everyone i just got a chamonix 45 n2 based on this input see voting does matter

i recently read somewhere that 4 x 5 wooden field cameras and tachihara in particular dont handle wideangle lenses very well is this the case i know on some extreme wideangle lenses you need to have a recessed lens board but since a 90 isnt a super wide lens i cant understand why a field camera like this one couldnt handle it any insights or thoughts are deeply appreciated thank you in advance

i had one and a recessed lens board a must but got bad results i have always assumed it was operator error but i dont know the tachihara is the same design as the wista swdx series zone vi 5x4cameras the main issue you need to check is whether yours has replaceable wideangle bellows instead of the standard concertina bellows 90mm is easily covered by all of these 5x4 inch field cameras the recessed board helps preferably with a lever external to the recess for adjustment of the aperture values 65mm is possible with front bed drop and the recessed board with experience you can get that down to 58mm focal lengths like the schneider sa 58mm xl offering at 47mm focal lengths its a nonevent if you are using the schneider super angulon 90mm f56 xl you will need the specialist wideangle bellows for the large rear element a detaching bellows is the easiest way to get the lens in if you bellows does not detach you then have to dissemble the rear ground glass and feed the unscrewed rear element into the front panel its possible but not easy and most likely the bellows will crimp unsightly with this kind of hack a schneider super angulon 90mm f68 or f80 nikkorfujinonrodenstock smaller aperture less angle of coverage lens will do much better

i know i can buy 4 x 5 cameras new and used online and play the ebay lottery as well but i wondered if there are any usabased brickandmortar photo storesdealers that specialize in large format cameras i understand that bh photo video adorama and others carry 4x5 cameras but i wondered if other sources specialize in 4 x 5 and large format cameras and ideally represent several camera lines i am thinking of buying a chaminox 45 f2 but want support in the us if that is possible im not quite sure how i would deal with the vendor in china i am also interested in hearing about any dealers that sellsupport as wide a range of 4 x 5 cameras as possible any input would be deeply appreciated thank you in advance

hi as far as i recall hugo zhang usa was acting as a distributor and usainternational liaison for chamonix china 45 series 4x5 and larger wooden cameras the board still offers a host of used lf 4x5 and ulf format cameras you will find better deals from reliable forum users who have been posting longer than our lifetimes the lf community is very traditional and have not quite migrated to reddit although may are now on older social media like facebook and instagram is a smaller uk based lf site and the also has a sizeable lf forum group and sales of used cameras i use 5x4 format too but mostly prefer the monorail or the ultra specialised architectural niche cameras you might find it cheaper to import from overseas than the us market too btw it seems you are clear on a chamonix camera for over 10 years i owned one of their first iteration whole plate format 8 12 x 6 12 inch and there were zero warranty issues it was as reliable as the day it came out of the factory they are very solid cameras and hold up really well against the best of the current crop of the market they are not the last word in lf photography however neither are they as hipster and disposable as the intrepid cameras which lack the same rigour in building im not sure what kind of support you think you would need for a stable wood field camera even the 150 year old victorian english rosewood ones need zero aftersales service today the wood is dimensionally stable and air dried before use the gearings are completely mechanical the only things which go wrong are bellows not covered by wear and tear and spirit levels drying out these can be replaced bona fide good luck thanks i will check these out as to support you are right what can go wrong not sure how much less a used one will go for but easy enough to buy new bellows now i need to go down the lens rabbit hole hi generallly 13rd 12th off the current list price depending on usage and condition you can get excellent field cameras for us1000 and less wista dxsws zone vis tachiharas are all wooden field cameras perhaps avoid anba and the cheaper flimsy style lightweight less than 500gram style of 5x4 which never stay sturdy in the wind if you plan on doing wideangle landscape work the walker titan series of abs resin cameras are completely waterproof frames lens and bellows not which are faster to set up i have one for sale which i never let go off despite not using for years they are gorgeous and very practical for ultrawide normal focal lengths way more stable than the chamonix 45sf which has a more fragile triple extension drawer board front wow i thought the chaminoux was the gold standard for field cameras the rear focus knob seems worth the price alone i had a tachihara i should never have sold and now have an el cheapo cambo but that is a rail studio camera and i have never understood the differences between the tachihara and the wista they look identical i love the wooden cameras the chamonix is fine it follows the same principle as phillips 5x4 inch cameras when the team in china started building it in small batches their design philosophy was clear and informed by large format photographers the materials used are not as high quality as hiromis company ebony of japan using macassar honduran ebony wood titanium fixtures and a bright screen rack and pinion are smooth as butter and also dual locked irritating for some people however for precision its unrivalled i use the svte 5x4 in the studio and its movements outclass the chamonix first generation 5x4 chamonix were paralysed by the front rise and tilt and swing located on the same knob control making it impossible to fine tune and lock one set of horizontal movements from the other the tachihara is an earlier generation than the later wista swdx i use the sw too it is beautfully lightweight whereas the ebony svte is not and rivals the chamonix 45sf if you are a telephoto portrait lens shooter the chamonix 45sf definitely has the edge over the tachihara and wista sorry to hear you let go of the tachihara im not sure the chamonix 45sf is a significant advance above what you passed on fractionally better in some areas perhaps but not huge its easy to live with either neither compare to the rock hard precision and stability of the ebony svte though nor the architectural military billeted aluminium single chassis silvestri 5x4 inch field cameras im very fond of monorail studio cameras too ebony svte whoa ebony is out of my price range back to tachiwista but i want the gold finish dont judge me do you know the differences between the tashi you said earlier generation vs wista it almost looks like wista bought out tachi and then made some changes of some sort since they all went out of production the cost for an ebony is really bizarre mostly for collectors perhaps the tachwista gold is fools gold mine has rusted away its just lacquer over raw brass sea salt rain denatures the lacquer and attacks the brass as i discovered no longer shiny gold the tachihara had an extending rear standard lfess stable than the wista and nonremovable bellows as far as i can recall the wista sw was specifically designed for super wide lenses so no need for drop front bed and a recessed panel sufficed more limited as a double extension bed than the tachiharas 25x extension or something of that factor going up to 300mm focal lengths the wista was more stable offering around 240mm of extension for focal lengths in the short portrait region anything else required top hat lens panels and then the centre of gravity tilt challenges operate wista sw focal length ranges from super wide 58mm schneider super angulon 5856 xl using the custom wide angle bellows tachiharas could only manage a 75mm before employing reverse top hat lens panelsrecessed panels with all the fidgeting of tiny aperture and shutter levers the weight of both are comparable around 15 kg although the wista is more rock sure due to its limited double extension the wood finishing of the wista is superior a lot of internet legend equated tachihara with wista although the staff complement were different japan has a lot of highly skilled artisanal wood craftsmanship based niche makers i think both are fine to use go for the wista if you tend to favour wideangle perspectives and the tachihara again if you miss it or plan on doing longer focal length work i prefer a monorail for longer focal lengths field cameras and lightness and short focal lengths feel more apt for me the wista it is then my cambo studio is too much to schlepp over fields and sea rocks in maine that said i am impressed by the chamonix knob system on the 45 f2hn2 i converted my wista back to a 4x4 inch big square format fan after finding the format on film always had marks eating into the image area its like a large hasselblad havent used it for some time now the silvestri is probably my favourite wide angle 5x4 inch camera silvestri hermes faster set up and helicoid focussing for large format quick snaps on 47mm xl the wista is comfortable with 65mm what do you mean by triple extension drawer board thats certainly what id describe the 45h as having but the 45n and 45f have a onepiece focusing plate what lenses do you have there scneiderkreuznach xenar 56 150 aposymmar 56120 caltar iin 156 f210mm wista 45sp 11 film holders scneiderkreuznach xenar 56 150 aposymmar 56120 caltar iin 156 f210mm wista 45sp 11 film holders what body is that which model wista is it

using a c1 head and relatively largeheavy mf and in future lf cameras want a way to quickly but securely place on abd remove my tripod head on the tripod when moving between sites

ok so i have never heard of the manfrotto move or the arca swiss quick links before so thanks for mentioning them my question is why does the need exist to quickly swap out the entire tripod head instead of leaving the head in place and using quickly attached mounting plates if that is the correct term is it because the different sizes of cameras require entirely differently sized tripod heads ah i think it is coming to me now it makes the tripod and head combination a more modular and professional setup just like being able to easily pop a finder off a 35mm professional camera makes it easier to change out a focusing screen this implies that you own multiple tripod heads each with their own strengths and weaknesses for use for a particular purpose i would love it if you would detail the different heads you own and in what situations you would use them ill understand if you do not wish to do that and that it might be asking for too much no hard feelings if that is the case thanks again for mentioning the existence of these quick change tripod head systems it is a neat and i think probably really useful idea depending on how well the implementation of the idea works out creating a 2nd comment just to avoid the formatting issues i mentioned above here is a link to the arca swiss quick link system from the arca swiss website i may come back and add another link to a search results page that displays a bunch of video reviews after i post the 1st link another link in another comment to avoid wrecking the formatting in my previous comments this is the top result on the bing search results page i posted above for the arca swiss quick links and it contains some great photographs of the system as well as this guys testing of the stability of the system using an 1114 large format camera and a laser pointer spoiler he found the arca swiss system to be as stable as his tripod and head without the arca swiss quick link set this review is a really good quick read in my humble opinion well worth the time here is the link you sir are a hero aw shucks

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from what i found online the ektar 127mm 47 is a 4x5 lens the ground glass also appears to be 4x5 but i dont know how to confirm this my guess would be that it is a 4x5 camera its a 4x5 inch speedgraphic variant body not 2x3 baby century speedgraphic the material of the smaller 2x3 is like a bakelite resin body the larger speedgraphic bodies are more metal heavy the mounted 12747 ektar is an okay lens my smaller baby century uses a 10537 ektar different design although very interesting rendition yours has an international graflok revolving back too so its more suitable for a vast range of 5x4 backs rollfilm backs and modification too wow thank you so much for the great info 4x5 you can tell by the lens i have the same on my crown graphic try linhof studios in london im in the us and will be sending my super tech v and maybe my best up super tech iii to them in the fall linhof studios are not in london used to offer linhof cameras second hand but not servicing i cant think of any linhof specialist which hasnt closed down in london robert white linhof studios in essex are still offering servicing i used to use them as the only silvestri specialist left in the uk you might be able to check their linhof side thank you

i have an epson 700 which can go up to 6400 dpi but when i order the max scan from my lab they set it at 300bpi suggestions

3200 thats big enough for me iirc i do 1600 nice photograph a lot of fun interactions happening between the people in the photo mixed with a really interesting location would you mind telling us where this is thanks in advance hi sorry for the delayed response this is in bom jardim da serra sc brazil thank you so much and no worries that is the power of the notification system here on reddit people get to respond in their own time when life allows and the notice gets sent at that point in time no pressure just knowledge being shared thanks again and again nice photograph

i have a chamonix 4x5 and was shooting with my chroma 617 adapter which is turning out to really be awesome i decided to use my 125mm fujinon w f56 today with just plain old 4x5 filmunder the dark cloth everything was in focus i shot things at f45 and my film is totally out of focus i would have had to hit a standard and knock it out of focus before exposure to do thisor hit the focus wheel anything else that would make sense

per your other post is your ground glass in the wrong way round so youre out of focus by the thickness of the glass you got it lol the ground glass was backward

how is it possible to have an image perfect on the ground glasslock down everything set the aperture to f45 and then have totally out of focus negatives thoughts

could it be camera shake rather than out of focus can you share the image i havent scanned em yet but will today its not shake as this was all tripod work cant really hand hold a chamonix maybe the ground glass is the wrong way round is it out of focus or camera movement there is also ground glass planefilm plane integrity film plane variance should be made up for with depth of field was everything centered update ground glass was on backward

ive found several articles saying that theres a focus shift from a filter if its mounted behind the lens but nothing about mounted in front of the lens i recently purchased a set of cokin filters to use with my 4x5 and ive only used them a couple of times but at least once the focus was off after i focused before adding the filter did the filter cause the shift or did i inadvertently change the focus certainly possible given my tachiharas somewhat finicky focus locks do i need to focus with the filter in place or just be more careful with the focus lock

a filter behind the lens changes the focus think of the light being slowed by the material causing a change of pathlength in front of the lens this makes only little difference because the pathlengh is only changed comparably little depends auxiliary lenses to change effective focal length or special effects filters can and will change focus points but conventional filters are made of flat optical glass should not apart from loose focusing railsstandards the most common reason why focus shifts on a view camera is from stopping down you have to focus with the lens wide open then stop down then check focus again similarly if youve focused and then do a swing tilt or shift you have to check focus again this is really true with swings and tilts you have to sort of sneak up on the focus point when doing this which is why vc technique takes longer to master and it takes so long to make a picture stick with it its worth it theres not a digital camera made that mere mortals can afford that comes even remotely close to the resolution and tonal rendering of a 4x5 neg even the best pro digital bodies today are only around 50mpix which approximates but still does not equal imho a 120 rollfilm negative we think of large format as being all about the sharpness and resolution of the final image and indeed it is but where 4x5 and larger really show their stuff is in tonal rendering they have a richness of tone that even the best 2 14 stuff cant quite match i speak as someone that has shot and owned a ton of very fine film camera brands over the years a 4x5 neg taken with a decent average lens and processed properly has noticeably better tonality and sharpness than my very expensive hasselblad theres no substitute for square inches that was also my impression i must have accidentally shifted the filmtolens distance apart from loose focusing railsstandards the most common reason why focus shifts on a view camera is from stopping down you have to focus with the lens wide open then stop down then check focus again i havent noticed this but ill certainly pay more attention to it in the future similarly if youve focused and then do a swing tilt or shift you have to check focus again this is really true with swings and tilts absolutely especially on the tachihara where the tilt pivots at the rails rather than at the center of the lens stick with it its worth it i plan to as a sort of general rule with vcs check focus every time you touch the camera

im looking to start shooting 4x5 again and want to shoot some backcountry stuff my old wooden field camera would be too heavy and fragile its getting on in years to take backpacking what would you guys recommend as light and sturdy enough to backpack with

i have a jung woo 45vx which is a clone similar to a wista of a linhof technika its all metal folds up very compact assuming your lens isnt too big and isnt that heavy ive used it when out hiking before and am very happy with it great feedback thanks what is the estimated weight to your setup tripod etc good question i have never actually weighed them to find out i would say the tripod is about 3kg and the camera about 25kg sorry im a bit late but for what its worth i have a chamonix 45n2 that ive used for about 2 years now and i very much enjoy it when my brother first saw it he described it as steam punk being half metal half wood so its pretty light and still robust about the only movement its missing is rear risefall but thats easy to work around from the website its 3lbs not sure how much my full kit is but i took it to the bottom of the grand canyon and back and only started curing the weight of the geared head on tripod for the last hour or two of the hike out thanks for the feedback pretty sure this is what ill be saving up for my woodandbrass 4x5 weighs in at 8

is anyone still shooting film on their 4x5 or have you gone to a digital back im dusting off my gear getting ready to shoot film again and then it hit me i dont know of anyone that prints optically anymore so are you taking your film to a lab or have you built your own darkroom assuming youre going to a lab how do you feel about the print quality with a digital scan and print back when i bought my first dslr i had realized that the scan quality from negs were lacking has the quality gotten better of the scans and prints gotten better thank you for your patience as i rattle off questions

yes i got a new camera i scan negs and when i visit my parents place i can print all bw though you can get very high res negative scans at your local print shop they use a drum scanner they scans will allow you to digitally print your large format negs at very large sizes otherwise optically printing is the way to go a bit pricier in the end though if youre paying for darkroom time chemicals etc good luck i have a darkroom i print from just picked up another enlarger for no other reason than to save it from the trash and possible parts if my first breaks this is a very late reply but i process and print my bw 4x5 process at home with a mod54 and print in a wonderful shared darkroom where we have 4 enlargers that can do 4x5 or larger printing is most of the enjoyment for me i glued the pvc strips and the tube into my spare jobo 2000ml tank the sheets are held to the wall flexed with tension one can use as little as 150ml of developer through slow rolling agitation fits two sheets in landscape orientation test sheets only

i will be shipping 8x10 chromes to be processed out of state but i need something to ship them in that is protective and light proof does anyone have an empty box from their 8x10 film does anyone have another suggestion for a way to ship this

i would probably get a pack of lightproof plastic bags and put in a boxthick envelope if you have some old papers for ra4 or bw then you can probably use the plastic bag that holds the paper ooooh this is smart i might have one of those bags around here somewhere just a bump and a new craigslist link 4x5 for sale great capture how did you process print thanks its lab processed im only doing bw at home

link to craigslist ad with pics everything is in great condition comes in a hard case and is easy to ship let me know if you have any questions thanks

nice rig reason you are getting rid of it havent shot with it in a few years used it in college and just out of but not much time to shoot anymore plus could really use the cash right now new baby lol

anybody out there have infoadvice on this thanks

ive used the phaseone back and one of the early model hasselblad backs both on a calumet basically the same model as an orbit the back mounts on a sliding holder that replaces your old ground glass the only problem i had with them is that the digital sensor is not as large as a sheet of film so in order to get the full frame size you have to make 3 exposures moving the back 3 times and then stitch them together the software that came with them did a fine job stitching automatically but you had to make sure the set was perfectly still for the entirely of each exposure you can just make only one exposure and just use the size of the digital sensor but for that price you might as well get a highend canon and lseries tiltshift lens what you do not want to do is buy one of those dslr to 4x5 digitalback solutions the focal plane is all off its incredibly difficult to get a sharp image from these i do a lot of editing digitally and imo the best thing to do if you want the best image from a 4x5 is shoot film and get a high quality scanner thanks for the help whats the name of the software in case i get a used back captureone is the proprietary phaseone software it works well with their backs but you could probably use photoshop or even lightroommaybe keep us apprised with what you decide to do

hi r4x5 i just recently got a new large format devere devon camera used that came with everything that i need except a rail mount any ideas on where i could search online for one thanks

ebay has a little bit of everything if that fails make friends with somebody who is handy with tools recently started shooting large format and am looking for feedback this was shot on ilford hp5 400

wondering if this would be a good buy or not

if thats the camera you want it seems like a good deal whats a good deal for someone else is always hard to evaluate are you new to 4x5 as an aside i would say that a 210 lens is closer to 70 mm on a 35 format it looks like a good camera to get into large format with if you are wanting something with some movements to it there is another black one on ebay for sale at 150 right now without all the accessories so the price does not seem to be too far off i must admit that i have never heard of that lens brand before but it is mounted in a good shutter so you could pick up barrel lenses that would use that shutter on the cheap and swap between them easily if i had the cash and it was local i would offer 300 and see if it took

i used a toyoview 4x5 45aii metal field camera in school and loved it no longer in school and in the market to buy an easy to setup and maneuver 4x5 the toyoview is great however i cant afford it budget 1000 ultimately dont really need anything that does too many tricks all i really care about is a super clean image with no fall off on the edges and being able to fire a flash advice links

a calumet monorail camera would give you movements with the rotating back and wont break the bank full coverage and firing a flash will depend on your choice of lens keh has a used 45aii for 822 shouldnt be tough to get a normalishlength lensshutter for under 200 i know i got my 180mm fujinon for well under that your concerns about flash and falloff really only pertain to the lensshutter combination the camera itself doesnt really factor into those aspects if thats pushing things a used chamonix or shen hao field camera should be well under 1000 if you really want to 4x5 on the cheap a used cambo monorail is around 200 and pretty well bombproof its just not very portable calumet cadet heres one on ebay i got a used 45cf for 250 from adoramaflawless look around for a few weeks youll find it hi just found this sub and just wanted to cause some discussion this was shot on an mpp with a schneider 150mm f56 film was portra 400 f80 at 5 seconds with a circular polariser lab processed by peak imaging scanned at home with an epson v800 please offer critique and ask me anything about my process would love to see more posts in this sub thanks mike i think you hit that image about perfectly the road leads the eyes and it is well framed by the stone walls the only thing i would have done is wait for golden hour to get some more color to the light coming through the trees if you wanted a more surreal image use the movements of the camera with a wider aperture to just focus on the road i would crop the tree on the far right so that the image ends on a light space rather than a dark one the black shape on the left is the photographer me in silhouette and the skewed shape in the center is the view camera the scratches are pastel on the surface of the cprint which is the subject of the photograph the image is lit by flashing a strobe into the studio room hence the figures appearing in silhouette and the cprint tacked to a wall acting as a mirror you may also note the small circles on the bottom left of the image those are holes made in the development process of the 4x5 negative which was fuji pro 160s

i have found a good deal on them but have no experience with the quickload format nor the filmtype anyone one here who does

ive only shot a couple sheets but its nice and easy expensive if you screw it up though you can shoot it and the kodak readyload with a polaroid holder dont think you can use the fuji holder with the kodak film and vice versa its been a couple years and ive been drinking so definitely doublecheck my statements alrite mate let me try and catch you sober 1 is it correct to understand that this is completely normal although professional positive film in this quickload package 2 you mention screwing up its not a complicated procedure non i saw an instruction on youtube and seemed pretty straight forward 3 how did you like the look of the film thanks for your reply 1 yep same film you would get in a 35 or 120 roll but in sheet form im out of town for the next week so cant double check the packaging im certain were talking about the same film though there are very few positive 4x5 films left in the world 2 if using a polaroid holder the process is only slightly more complicated than using polaroid sheets in the holder there are tutorials online you can reference i followed instructions on some website although im sure there are videos now really all youre trying to do is pull the dark paper most of the way out of the holder but not all the way while leaving the film seated in the bottom of the holder 3 ive always loved the fuji positive films great saturation and color rendition imo the thing to remember is that transparency film really has no latitude for under or over exposure and 4x5 is no different you want your exposures to be spoton pay attention to your bellows extension im out of town for the next week or so lets see if remindme 1 week works and ill try to check back have fun shooting looking forward to seeing what you come up with yea i usually do a 35mm test on the latitude so i know the exact latitude of the film have to see if i can find a roll then ill remind you in a week fuji still makes quick loads no this is a second hand market expired yep awesome find that is a calumet cc4xx series camera takes a four inch square lens board revolving back for both portrait and landscape formats pretty basic operation with few options info here find any lenses with it thank you i didnt find a lens board or lens with it but i found one of each that fit in the free shit section of my departments supply closet nobody around here is into 4x5 photography unfortunately what should i do if i find pinhole light leaks in the fabric update not a problem did a 10 min closedshutter test with full extension do you know if calumet is still kicking i couldnt find anything aside from the ritz camera page i have heard black rtv silicone works but i have never tried it calumet is gone as of early this year good news is lf is pretty brandinsensitive for the most part and as long as you have a 4x4 lensboard with the rightsized hole ie copal 0 1 or 3 for the most part you can mount just about any standard large format lens wideangle lenses may require a recessed lens board for infinity focus i think the part number is cc428 may be a bit tough to come by also of note is that your camera is identical to the burke and james orbit so you may have success finding parts under that name as well heres what it looks like cleaned up a bit deleted deleted its an excellent camera as long as you have places that will develop 4x5 film you will most likely have to replace the bellows go in a dark room with a single beam of light and see if it shines through the bellows anywhere the creases are where this usually happens nice find deleted youre set for life then

im considering to get a wide angle lens for my equipment but have no experience with the fresnel would i need a fresnel for a 100mm lens or already from a 120mm lens

from what i know a fresnel does not need to be changed with lenses you should be able to focus correctly no matter the focal length of lens used i use my fresnel with everything from 65mm to 300mm seems to work fine you dont absolutely need one for wide angle but it does help even out the apparent illumination on the ground glass what focal length it will begin to come apparent depends a lot on the lens itself and the fresnel design they all seem to be a bit different certainly couldnt hurt to have with a 100mm hey mate thanks for your reply think im just gonna buy the lens first and then see if ill need one so basically hes charging 20 for 4 sheets of expiredunknown condition of kodak seeing as how you can get fp4 for 40 brand new great build do those not flush tripod mounts make it hard to use the camera without a tripod thanks i havent tried the shortest exposure ive had so far as been 1m27s so i only intend to use a tripod for this camera oh i wasnt asking about hand holding or something i use my cameras a lot placed on stuff or the floor hence the question sorry im so ingrained that 4x5 tripod i didnt even think about putting it on the floor i guess you could add little feet in the corners if it is a problem when i use my 8x10 pinhole i even go so far as to use guy ropes such a large camera catches any wind at all so its an absolute must to peg the camera down especially with the exposures being so much longer with reciprocity failure at f400 i think ive seen that shot before were you on f295 before it died yes i was and i did post the 8x10 pinhole their too real shame it died now if you could come up with a way to mount lenses to the inside of the lid to be accessible when opened and upholster the inside with with green felt like a pool table just ideas thanks for the ideas you may be on to something there

i purchased a 4x5 graflex speed graphic a few months ago ive shot with it twice and have been pleased with the results but im not terribly well versed in the ways of large format im hoping that somebody with more experience than i might have some useful knowledge of getting the most out of this camera i know that its not what some would consider top quality and it lacks a number of features found on other large format cameras but i thought it might make a solid jumping off point thanks in advance for any assistance you may be able to offer

what are you wanting to know besides lens movement the speed graphic is a very versatile lf camera its my main shooter and when i was in school i shot everything from sports to news photography shots with it its also very compact ive taken mine on multiple international trips and even on motorcycle outings actually thats very encouraging to hear most of what ive heard others say about the speed graphic is that its fine but not anything to write home about something drew me to it nonetheless and i just had to have one im very glad to hear that its probably quite a bit more capable than i had initially thought i cant remember exactly but in the last 12 years ive seen countless initiatives for bringing back bw film instant film old formula developers printing paperssome even developed and tried to market lf cameras that incorporate the best of yesteryear hardware and optics sadly you never hear about them again this still uses small format film its the same film as the fuji instax camera which is smaller than a standard polaroid hi im a bot for linking direct images of albums with only 1 image source why creator ignoreme deletthis about 1520 year ago i got a call from a friendofafriend her boyfriend was about to throw out this old wooden flatbed it was old clunky needed love and had a nasty scar on the lens of course i wanted it i took it in showed it love and used it to learn 4x5 i would go through spurts of using it consistently mostly while i worked at a lab with bw dipanddunk ive patched and repaired it more times than i know about two years ago i forgot to take it out of its soft case while we were moving the brass rails ended up bent and unrepairable doing cursory searches for new rails i realized this was an opportunity to upgrade i replaced it with a toyo 45a and this wooden beast now sits as an object dart and point of pride in my house

nothing complicated but i live in wi and have 20 frames of e6 processing to do as economically as possible cheers

also keen to know thedarkroomcom its a film development by mail lab in san clemente california they do e6 but im not positive they do 4x5 e6 if they dont they should know a place that does thanks they do indeed process 4x5 but i was hoping for something either 1 cheaper with film costs the dark room is hovering around 9 frame or 2 midwest locatedi like talking face to face with my photo tech i think theyre probably the one ill end up using but i think i calculated 8090 of processing on this one job if you decide to do it yourself someday and acquire all the necessary hardware an e6 chemical kit is only around 40 you could do the entire batch in one day i would say that many sheets is probably about the limit id wanna push a 32 oz kit thanksgood results oh sure e6 at home is kind of time consuming and tedious but youll save a lot of money heres a sheet of velvia i did once its pretty much a standardized process like c41 so if you do it right it shouldnt look any different than a labs work thats a lovely red cast from velvia which chemistry do you use removed had great but pricey results from thedarkroom id certainly use them again so thanks for the suggestion wonderful service and great care used on my negs just need to find a more economical e6 home solution i think

currently deciding between a used ebony sw45 or a chamonix 45f2 or 45n2 has anyone used either camera any recommendations or advice ebony is about 400 more than the others will be used for hikinglandscapes so weight and size are considerations

i have a wista45sw that being said ive used the ebony before and quite frankly i would go with what would be the most convenientwellrounded setup which im thinking might be one of the chamonixlike the n2 invest the rest of the money in a good pack and a great carbon fiber set of sticks to stick the camera on what tripod would you recommend looking at a slik 724 cfl i am an ebony sv45te and love it theres nothing like it theres a lot of good four by fives out there but they all have their quirks i have to have absolutely positively no camera shake or movement once everything is locked up its a pet peeve wow only 400 ebony cams seem to be in the 25003500 range used that is way higher than a new chaminox i am no expert but have been told on this thread that ebony is the alpha predator sounds like you have a great deal at hand

im writing here because i missed the boat on the wanderlust travelwide 4x5 kickstarter back in the day as even though i was a fan of ben syverson i could not afford the relatively modest investment at the time now it appears that the company has disbanded as i can no longer find any place to order a travelwide of my own does anyone have one they would be will to sell used preferably with the recommended 90mm f68 angulon please message or pm me if you have one you are willing to part with thank you

wanderlustcamerascom i dont see anywhere to order any longer do you they are indicating that there will be cameras available as part of anther batch and their looks like a newsletter signup thanks

i have six 4x5 film holders with film in them i have no idea if they have been exposed or not so i plan to develop them mostly for practice my problem is i dont know if they contain color or bw film is there any way to tell the difference in the dark are the ridges top right corner different should i risk it and just process them all as bw all suggestions welcome

the notch code will tell you what film it is open up your film holders in the dark and feel what the notches look like and check out these resources awesome thanks your can trace the notches onto paper in the dark absolute darkness required thats what i did it worked well enough shot with a schneider kreuznach 210mm lens f8 1100 sec incredible shot thank you

i am looking for replacement tapered bellows for a toyo 45cx does this camera use the same tapered bellows as a 45a or 45aii

no the 45a series bellows are gluedin while the 45cx bellows are meant to be interchanged with bag bellows and thus are attached with a metal frame whether you could retrofit 45a bellows onto the 45cx frames i have no idea

ive caught the bug i started with 35mm a little over a year and a half ago moved up to medium format six months ago and now im feeling the need to add a 4x5 to my collection im not interested in a field camera for my first one ive looked through a lot of different brands and models and im most lured towards the horseman l45 i really like the mechanics of the movements when compared to cambo toyo etc does anyone here have any experience with the camera tips moving forward

moving kind of fast arent you the learning curve moving from 35 to 120 is nothing compared to what youre getting into find one or two cameras you love and work with them for a long while you start to get intimate in a way after a few years ive got my old student nikon 5005 25yrs now and i still capture things in it that way outstrip my other cameras im learning to love my newer cameras my linhof technika seems to produce good images with my eye in the 270mm lens but not my others ive got a seagull 4a that grabs people great im starting to get in shape with my nikon f4 i guess what im saying is shoot around but come home to one or two cameras and really grind them get 45000 frames out of your 35 pull 5600 45s from the horseman and then youll start grabbing some magic wista 45 sp is a great one for beginner i would suggest to skip monorail cameras the l45 looks and will work almost exactly like any other monorail camera i would recommend a 210mm as a first lf lens make sure you get a compatible lens board for both the camera and lens that you end up with im not interested in a field camera for my first one why not i started in lf with a cambo monorail and unless you are buying one for instudio work only i wouldnt recommend it for a beginner monorails are heavy bulky and generally a huge pain in the dick to cart around if you actually want to go places and take pictures of things a field camera really does make more sense the linhof tech 45s is a notable exception as its designed to be a fieldportable monorail but they aint cheap the toho fc45x is another onthego monorail if you can find one for sale but it also has its own design compromises that keep the weight down i appreciate the advice but i did say in my post that im not interested in field cameras thanks i was thinking for my first lens i might pick up a 150 f56 symmar s but ive started looking through 210mm lenses well see what i can dig up im willing to sacrifice portability for the extra versatility that the monorail systems offer weight and bulk arent a problem for me i think its important to move forward when my interests do helps keep the passion alive yeah i thought the same way when i started in lf i was wrong and i also found that a monorail didnt offer as much extra ability over a good field camera as i thought it would but if youre deadset on a rail id take a cambo master over the horseman any day same for the aforementioned linhof 45s what do you like about the cambo master over the others thanks for the advice i may very well regret going with a monorail first im just so enamored with them that im happy to take the risk im very interested in doing studio work with it anyways that i dont think it will be a waste of time i found the cambo master to be extremely refined in its movements and the geared adjustments seemed smoother than the horseman if youre just getting started you probably wont notice much of a difference tbh theres a linhof super color for sale locally for fairly cheap at 200 cad do you have any thoughts on that system it seems like a great price but i havent seen too many details on it removed i dont have any handson experience with that particular model sorry i seem to remember they had a limitation of the back tilt and being linhofs budget model they lacked luxuries like geared risefall the one youre looking at seems to have a funky homemade front lens board adapter you might want to see what style of boards actually work with it i just picked up a toyo 45gx for a fantastic deal shipping from japan its a great camera but a little bigger and heavier than the other g series bodies id recommend them as the toyo 158mm sized accessories are plentiful let me know if youre interested in the seller very interested how much did you end up paying what did it include sending you pm aero ektar 178mm f25 sinar p2 kodak portra 160 beautiful thanks

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gorgeous i shot a few frames of provia but never got 4x5 velvia now i stick to bw so i can dev myself film is fomapan 100 hey i just found this sub been shooting 4x5 for a few years now i work with a scientific rocket program based in alaska we launch rockets roughly 60 feet long up to twice the height of the international space station to perform scientific experiments im also a photographer as a hobbyist and usually take the opportunity to hone my rocket launch photography skills this is the first one ive done on film and it was my tachihara 4x5 field camera im pretty proud of how it turned out since theres no real way to meter or do any kind of test exposure with the high contrast and poor latitude of provia i needed to control the bright light emitted by the rocket to bring it more into balance with the dark sky and landscape based on past experiences shooting rockets with digital cameras and some educated guessing i started the exposure about two hours before launch with the lens open to f8 to expose the sky star trails and distant landscape around 30 seconds before launch i stopped the lens down to f16 to expose for the foreground lit by the rocket like a giant flash

hi looking for a source or a process to buy or remove the anthalation layer from some 4x5 film cant seem to find a consistent source on either removal or existing products thanks

i mean xray film but its usually orthochromatic and coated on both sides so it scratches easily also its generally in 8x10 so youd have to cut it down thanks i can use a filter to remove the extended sensitivity of ortho right or would that give me an awfull megative it actually has limited sensitivity its primarily sensitive to blue light generally very high contrast as well its got crazy chunk grain in standard chem too it is available in either blue or green sensitive with the right dev not grainy at all likely easily scratched sensitive layers are on both sides on the ones made by foma why do you need that layer gone if i may ask if you make a drying cabinet you could also wash the film dry it then shoot it im not op im the one that suggested xray as a sheet film without anti halation i should have tagged op its a speed graphic anniversary that my grandfather bought in the 40s when he worked as a press photographer i have this to experiment with while im at school unfortunately my grandfather has been struck severely by alzheimers and can no longer share his stories and wisdom with me i will do my best to use this camera well and make him proud

was wondering if anyone here is selling one im located in usa thanks

whats wrong with getting one off ebay every lens ive gotten has been from a japanese ebay seller and i have yet to have any problems with them when they light scuffs the only makes i could find were on the back side of the lens board i live in canada and even for me the prices im seeing look to be pretty good ive been looking but if i can find someone on here who is getting rid of theirs maybe i could save on the tax that ebay will charge also im in no rush i love this this is a whole mood and im here for it love the tones i preordered one a year and a half ago i finally received it last month ive only run two packs of film through it im waiting for slightly warmer weather one bw one color the results are surprisingly good rated at 800 iso it put out a nice tonal range beautiful thank you id love to see this photo edited

dear community x200b i am looking into using a medium format back on a view camera due to the option of rise and fall which would suit my photography very much i was wondering if i could use any film back on any 4x5 camera i dont have too much experience with 4x5 but i know how to use it the technical aspects which cameras go with what and are how expensive elude me a bit though x200b if anybody could be of assistance i would be very happy x200b cheers

typically mf backs are mounted via the graflok system so if your lf body is graflokcompatible you should have no problem sourcing a rollfilm back i see is that system common or has it been used often yeah its fairly common but not ubiquitous what lf body are you using or have you not bought one yet i have not yet bought one i just wanted to make sure i dont have to buy and sell and buy again to have the right one i mainly need it because i want to toss my fuji gx680 for a lighter more versatile equipment and process right on if youre looking for lightweight the intrepid camera is an economical option that is graflokcompatible a bigger budget would net you a chamonix or shen hao if going used just make sure the camera has a graflokcompatible back easy thank you so much for helping me out ill definitely keep that in mind

how to you tell if a lens will cover a 4x5 negative i have an old compur voigtlnder lens anastigmat skepar 145 f83cm anyone have one of these lenses and yes i know the easy answer it to put it on a camera and look at the ground glass i will need to find or maybe make a lens board for that internet help me

you can draw a 4x5 square on a sheet of paper then hold the lens abovein front of it and see if the projected image fills the square this is a very rough estimate done off of what will be a dim image to make it easier i would stand in a doorway with the paper in a darkened room and focus the lit room onto the paper the best way is to google the lens coverage this lens is a tessar type and may illuminate 4x5 but falls far short of actually covering 83mm is quite short focal length for a 4x5 but if you have that lens and the camera you might as well try it especially if the lens has its retaining ring and you can mout it easily chinese lens plates are like 12 euro on ebay worst case scenario it makes a weird circular edge around your image but do not spend the world on getting it mounted after all it is just a tessar type lens and likely made for a 6x9 cm camera there are 90mm lenses around that will cover 4x5 with room to move for not too much money thanks everyone i am new to 4x5 photography i bought a 4x5 pinhole camera a few years ago and liked it i am slowly expanding its a lens hood matte box to prevent reflections from light hitting the lens thank you so much lens hood or shade beautiful i really need to try 4x5 someday ive got two bodies a graflex rail with a 90 and 180mm as well as a calumet with a 90 and 45mm wide angle bellows ive only tried them a few times as they are big heavy and expensive to shoot the negatives are beautiful but the dof is much much different and shots that i thought would be sharp at f8 because i didnt understand the difference in formats and relative fstops at the time were very selectively focused id like to give it another go but wish i had a field camera rather than the rails kits for field work great photo in full sun i whispered an expletive to myself at work looking at the first one very well done surprisingly this film had been stored in my uninsulated attic for the past 35 years bravo i sure wish this was squared off with that top beam or with that vertical line as it is i feel like im listing to the right during the 100th anniversary year of jack kerouacs birth i am documenting the items left at his grave one photo a day to show things people have left pens pencils booze personal notes and writings i am using a 1940s era anniversary speed graphic a 135mm f47 wollensak raptar lens and shooting with ilford hp5 and arista edu ultra 400 prints will be made as 4x5 contacts on either ilfobrom or adox lupex with larger prints to be done by in belmont ma 7th and lincoln what do you dev in i use ilfosol 3 114 love these love it as i was developing the film the top of the tank popped off for a moment thats why there are three shafts of light emanating from the right i think it gives it a kind of ethereal look not sure if i should reshoot it i like the feel of this is constructive critique welcome yes please im new to 4x5 and have so much to learn for this image i used lots of forward tilt and focused on his eyes im new to 4x5 as well i notice the forward tilt but the biggest thing for me is the gnarled piece of wood is partially focused and partially out of focus for me its distracting and takes attention away from your subject thanks i had the same feeling but did not want to crop it out i have tried sharpening just that section but it seem to be just as distracting yeah i dont think cropping would work either i like it overall it wouldnt hurt to take one sheet out and then just look at it open the box in a changing bag pull one sheet out set it aside and close up the box then outside of the changing bag have a looksie at the sheet in day or safe light glossy side is the back and a more mattesatin look is the emulsion side universal code is the notch on the upper right emulsion side

currently im using a toyo 45cf which i love but i recently got a 75mm lens and its such a pain to use i have it in a deep recessed board and i have to drop the bed to keep it out of the frame its not the end of the world but im wondering if theres something else i could get relatively cheaply ive been thinking maybe a monorail camera ive only ever used field cameras it would be nice to be able to use longer lenses as well im using the toyo 110mm lens boards so thats also a consideration

monorail lf probably is the direction you want to look for the rare combo of affordability and flexibility theyre usually quite a bit cheaper than field cameras and have way more movements and optional accessories downside is they arent as convenient to take on a hike but if you have a large backpack it is doable monorail cameras can have rail extension accessories if you want to try longer lenses and if you want to shoot ultra wide look for one with a bag bellows accessory the bellows is easily interchangable on many monorail cameras and when you swap the accordion style bellows out for a bag bellows you can get a lot more movements with wide lenses looking at used gear on keh right now i see two nice looking 4x5 monorail cameras in ex condition with bag bellows for 141 and 194 id definitely consider one of those for your needs so cheap for professional gear thats one thing i love about large format the prices for much of it is far more reasonable than current medium format gear prices monorails just dont excite collectors i guess but i think its a great system to add to your arsenal for less than the cost of a lens especially if you already have all the other stuff needed to shoot 4x5 just need a lens board or two to go with it there are cameras that exist that are designed to be used with wide lenses but theyre relatively expensive i think what panf has said is good advice sinar is probably your best bet because theyre cheap and abundant i have a horseman and i would not recommend hiking with that its heavy wow 47mm on a flat lens board thats crazy i dont want to know how much it costs though i would love to have one camera to do it all but i love the ease of set up and how light weight my 45cf is it just cant do everything those are very reasonable prices in keh im in canada so their shipping can be expensive but compared to the shipping prices on monorail cameras on ebay its actually not bad and the price for new lens boards wont be so bad if im spending less than 200 on a camera that already has bag bellows do you have any brand preference between monorail cameras are there any features that i need deleted i dont have experience with enough brands of monorail cameras to have a brand preference but i do really like my sinar norma specifically because it is so beautiful looking kinda cool to have a swiss made camera too just something different for making a decision based on pure functionality though id compare the specs of your current 4x5 cameras the available movements and their max ranges minmax focal length etc vs some monorail cameras that youre considering to help pick something that will give you more than what you already have available from your field camera the only specific features that are popping into my head to hold out for aside from that you want a bag bellows are a graflok back not spring back for maximum compatibility with roll film backs and the camera having a rotating back is very handy too edit choosing a lighter model might interest you too and the ability to fold at least a little compactly if you are planning on taking it out of the studio and the sinar norma is totally not that but i have hiked with it anyway when i had no field camera and it was challenging but fun and rewarding thank you something lighter would definitely be a plus ill keep an eye out for something with bag bellows i could not use 90mm on a flat lens board on my cambo sc i suspect it is much the same with the rest of the monorail cameras you could sell your toyo and get a camera more useful for wide angle deleted its true i could sell it but at this point id like to find something cheap to test it out i very much like my toyo for everything else and the cf seems hard to come by these days and much more expensive than what i paid for it what do you use to trigger the flash the lens has a syncport i used a cable from the lens to the flash

yesterday 623 there was a guy shooting 4x5 w a graflex speed graphic switching holders etc anyone know more about this brought back memories

guessing it was frank thorp hes known to shoot large format black and white around political happenings yes without a doubt it was frank thorp here is ig for those interested thanks rphotomarket clips look into what the wanderlust travelwide used for its back really simple method of securing a film holder that works surprisingly well youll need to fabricate something to keep the edges around the holder light tight though ive got a recently acquired toyo field camera and am struggling to find a bag i like i dont think i will be hiking into the backcountry with this rig but i will largely be shooting landscapes so portability is clutch what are you all using i have an f64 backpack i found on clearance when i bought my toyo plenty of room it fits the standard setup with two lenses side bags for 1012 film holders various kickbacks and still room left over for lunch or a jacket also my first lf bag was a softsided cooler no joke it worked well when i was just driving to the locations and it was cheap what a regal pup sir good boy he is a remarkably good boy best ive ever had a tatonka backpack with custom built wood inserts that pup is soaking in the moment i love it hey thats a cool bit of engineering you keep the film holders in the top compartment yes and the cloth on top under the flap to reduce rattling i bought a used zone iv 4x5 and it came with the white zone iv weatherproof bag that is a thing of beauty and a joy to behold im using a pelican 1500 with wheels to carry my camera 12 holders light meter and other gear it has the yellow soft dividers which make it easy to see everything link

i want to buy the canon canonet 28 to take with me on vacation but im not sure if its a good camera

its great as long as youre looking for an auto exposure rangefinder very sharp lens accurate light meter easy to focus ergonomic and easy to use this was the camera my dad bought me in 1979 still use it takes great photos it should shoot full manual as well right i think its just a ql17 with an f28 lens instead the canonet 28 is great and really small no on the 28 you have no control of the shutter speed and aperture control is only for flash the shutter speed gets locked at 130 sec it is intended to be used as an auto exposure camera thanks sounds really nice this is great thanks ahh too good this looks like a front yard or park christmas decoration lol where did you find it that you could take a nsfw picture great picture i just couldnt help but ask thank you very much yes it is a christmar park near the shopping center i was just waiting for no one to pass by two companies currently make the stuff marketed as r09 and adonal so you dont have to worry about stashing it too much that wasnt a sure thing when agfa went tits up my last six bottles from the ten i had rounded up you could always make your own as someone who only uses d76 and is looking to get into other developers what generally are the difference between using rodinal and d76 or rodinal and something like ddx came for this stayed for the soup i use r09 great stuff well this should last the next 500 years it being rodinal shouldnt it all kinds of things kodak for example gives this overview to sum up properties of their developers shadow detail is obviously important as it determines if a specific developer achieves the box speed of a particular film lower shadow detail means a loss of effective speed and you may need to compensate for it during exposure in camera grain looks selfexplanatory although it may not be the amount of grain is in fact not dependent on the developer the size of the grain however is sharpnessacutance is essentially micro contrast the higher it is the more apparent grain tends to become even though its amount is of course fixed rodinal has the reputation of producing sharp and crisp negatives at the expense of grain which is why it is commonly recommended for slower films there are ways around this and ive yet to come across an absolute statement about a particular developer that couldnt be falsified eventually rodinal can easily be turned into a lowgrain developer with medium acutance by adding sodium ascorbate which acts as an intensifier and thus cuts down on development time i do this frequently mostly as a convenience to keep development times down but it has some other advantages it yields somewhat smoother rendering than plain rodinal would there are some other properties that the above chart does not list there is the class of staining developers such as pmk pyro those developers strive for maximum sharpness and lowest grain which are normally antagonists negatives thusly developed require a somewhat different approach in darkroom printing another important property is if a developer is semi compensating a semicompensating developer is hc110 at low dilutions whereas rodinaladonal is considered compensating when used for standdevelopment again at very low dilutions compensating means that the overall contrast of the negative is reduced which means your film may now record more details both in the shadows and highlights simultaneously this is obviously very useful in highcontrast situations or with film that naturally produces high contrast modern medium speed tgrain films do such as delta 100 and tmax 100 likewise it can save you when you accidentally exposed the same roll at different speeds this happens to me occasionally this is an example of a shot exposed at asa 400 on an asa 100 film this was standdeveloped in adonal for 90 minutes contrast is still quite high but the negative would have been entirely unusable had it been developed in any noncompensating developer sure try to find paminophenol in uruguay even metol for d76 is iffy phenidone hydroquinone hah my soup for a long time was homemade perceptol diluted 13 being it only metol sodium sulfite and sodium chloride it was easy to make in real life try it on one roll and see if you like it in my experience rodinal sucks for delta grain films and hp5 its an acquired taste for trix too much grain for little increase in apparent sharpness fx2 is better its very good for apx400 i found it good on slow speed films pan50 apx 100 fp4 grain is moderate and contributes to apparent sharpness now on tones a rodinal developed neg has a different tone distribution than a d76one in my experience its more of an straight line with less separation in the middle for the rodinal ones and more highlight detail it lends itself to bold printing in order to separate skin tones for example its not better than d76 just different i use d76 rodinal and fx2 depending on the subject film lens and my particular whims of the day wow that was a great writeup very informative without being incomprehensible and the chart is super helpful thanks you wouldnt happen to have any more material for those wanting to know a bit more about different developers and their effects without neccesarily being chemist majors also you wouldnt know if theres a similar sheet for ilford developers edit i would rbestof this but i dont think they would appreciate the information as much as us why would you live in a country where you cant make your own rodinal but seriously i hear you sometimes its hard to get the ingredients fortunately nowadays you can get almost anything over the web check out bosticksullivancom if you havent already heres a better one i cant get any kind of rodinal or hc110 or anything remotely liquid shipped to me cause i live on an island same goes for pretty much any chemicals needed to homeroll something too its buying powders or nothing you wouldnt happen to have any more material for those wanting to know a bit more about different developers and their effects without neccesarily being chemist majors anything i have in my bookmarks folder i assembled over time and its not very systematic well known is the unofficial hc110 developer resource page which makes a few comparisons to other developers specifically d76 that you are familiar with theres a similar type of page for rodinal this is specifically where i got the idea of adding sodium ascorbate from websites dedicated to a particular developer can never quite resist to dissect chemical details and neither can these two i generally find that doing a simple google search for a particular developer will reliably find discussions in photographyrelated forums often discussing differences between developers the problem with those is that theres a tendency for every conceivable opinion to be expressed eventually ultimately this just goes to show that differences between most developers are often quite subtle and more often than not depend either on the specific development technique or personal biases to me its more important to have a few developers that i regularly use and that combined cover all the scenarios i frequently run into in my case those are hc110 rodinal and very rarely pyro pmk ive used other developers in the past ilfosol3 and ddx and i was happy with them i eventually ditched them because of rather poor shelf life rodinal sucks for delta grain films and hp5 looks good with hp5 on medium format but youre correct it really excels with pan f and fp4 medium format is a different beast i mainly shoot 35mm at about 1012x enlargements on a condenser leitz valoy ii focotar2 lens this is a recipe for sharp grain and the grain pattern of hp5 is displeasing to my eye fortunately nowadays you can get almost anything over the web import duty on uruguay is 60 of the fob price price shipping costs 16 also i must by law hire a customs clearings agent to fill the paperwork their rates start at about usd 200 also any chemicals shipped are automatically held back until cleared by higher authorities in some months time unless i grease some hands which i wont do by principle oh god i love rodinal holy crap that sounds terrible not sure i could survive without online shopping for stuff dont go to the store much anymore except for groceries beautiful photo man what a landscape amazing photo where as it taken wicked shot man assuming a 10 sec timer how did you get from a to b that fast great place great photo and did you catch anything awesome shit a very sketch spring over some rocks shutter went off about a second after i picked up the pole didnt catch anything unfortunately snow lake wa thank you thanks ahem you didnt catch anything but this keeper oh shit whats up brae i watch your videos all the time awesome shot love your youtube channel wow this is awesome thanks for sharing that looks like an ideal getaway took a pentax 67ii on a backpacking trip i like your style lovely shot removed thank you thank you appreciate it thanks its the go to in the summer my knees hate me thanks haha appreciate it amazing photo beautiful a wonderful symphony of colours and a great composition yooo love your videos brae and love the shot link to channel that is indeed an incredible shot absolutely phenomenal absolutely gorgeous can see the shift movement of the water where you stepped to get into place an interesting part of the story in my opinion happy new year bro i hope youll be able to do all the hikes and take all the photos you want awesome shot i watch your videos all the time incredible photo okay wow this is beautiful id definitely frame this one as an idiot who travels with one i feel your pain ah i believe i watched the youtube video with this in it good work as always those feet to scale gorgeous photo this looks incredibly peaceful sweet colours dreamy scenery and chill atmosphere wonderful photograph do you guys like the full or would a slight crop look better beautiful dog this is an absolutely beautiful photo and dog great work love all of them all of these have a great atmosphere really well done i especially like the two from mexico city thank you so much gah same such great locations there stunning that first one is particularly incredible what was the lighting situation in the movie theater was it a set or spontaneous fantastic i used two led fresnels as key lights for that one plus some fog machine in the background with a tungsten fresnel wow amazing what lens do you use for the pentax i love your work im wondering if i shoot portra 400 with tungsten light do i have to use a filter as well for balancing color temperature nice image i love the srt 101 i like the 102 better because of the split screen focus and my bad eyesight be well what a great shot on a great camera love my little 101 would this clock happen to be in orange county ca niles ca frames are from different days on different rolls of film its not every shot but 13 on each roll will have this issue orange light leaks make me think back of camera you replace seals yet pretty simple process and kits are available online to test you can always use electrical tape covering the camera door seams and running through the roll ae1 is most vulnerable to have light leaks near the door hinge and the latch but to be safe replace the channels as well lots of youtube tutorials ive done a couple ae1s and an a1 all with 15mm sheet foam for amazon you can get the kits but its cheaper to buy a sheet and cut to size new light seals this reminds me of my first family road trip thank you thanks glad you and one other feel something awesome shots no idea what that kid in the last pic is doing i had a red filter on my hexar and thought the black volcanic rock would look interesting kids are strange love 2 first review of the year reflecta x66 a low cost scanner for 120 and 35mm reflecta is a german company specializing in film scanners the x66 is their 2nd attempt at a low cost scanning solution for 120 medium format and 35mm film this is oemed from elsewhere and is very similar to the wolverine line of low cost scanners i have written about the wolverine 35mm and 120 scanners previously what is new is that the x66 has increased the resolution somewhat 14mb or 22 with interpolation in this post i post four comparison images the first with the emulsion facing down emulsion facing up scan from epson v700 scanner and scan from epson v700 with post processing i have also included the box photos so that you can read the specs here are my conclusion fast scanner ie there is no lag as it has a sensor that snaps a picture of the negative it saves onto a sd card and does not need a computer to operate it is better than other similar fast 120 scanners and double the resolution of the previous model great for social media has two slots one for 35mm and the other for 120 etc resolution and details are lacking compared to the epson v700 scanner saves only in jpg loses too much crop on one side this is consistent with the similar fast wolverine 120 scanner scanner info a specialised scanning website concludes that reflecta x66 produces a resolution of only 1800ppi pixels per inch which isnt great for film archival but adequate for screen presentation you can read their full review here

any film camera lens experts here that can advise if the markscondition of this lens will affect shooting with film this is a nikkor 5cm f11 btw thank you

if youre planning on buying it probably look for a better one the filter threads are messed up too it could have been dropped or gotten all kinds of damage impossible to tell from the photos alone how the scratch would affect shooting nikon made a 5cm f1 1 i didnt know such a lens existed that scratch will affect image quality but not as much as it would if the scratch wad on the drone element can you post a pic of the front of the lens

this thread is for you to promote your blog flickr 500px web site etc but it must be about analog photography to begin with this thread will be monthly but will be adjusted as needed a new thread is created every month to see the previous community threads see here

hello all ive been shooting with film over 10 years and recently started a youtube channel to document my film shoots heres a short video of me shooting the streets of berlin with an xpan hey ranalog im a photographer based in melbourne australia been shooting street portraits sometimes fashion and lately dabbling in more minimalist and abstract work more of my stuff hello im a photographer who recently bit the bullet and made an ig instagramcomthefantomehour deleted hey there im based in germany and shoot 35mm and potentially 120 soon as a hobby also its kind of a form of therapy for me i mainly shoot mundane and overlooked enviroments nice scenery and street life just stuff that inspires me andor evokes a feeling also im trying to get into portrait photography thanks for checking it out hi all i run a small 35mm mailin film lab in socal called harvey film lab we start at 10 and scan on noritsu frontier scanners check it out hi there mainly focused on film photography is the tiny island country of singapore do give me a follow photographer from the south coast of the uk in brighton taking predominantly 35mm street photography with a few from my travels dropped in 99 film photography majority black and white hey all new to the community and enjoying it i am a street photographer from glasgow living in warsaw poland ive studied under richard kalvar and bruce gilden and teach photography professionally i write about photography for shoot it with film 35mmc and others ive recently launched a street photography newsletter called photos mostly on substack and you can find out more at the link if youre interested or you like what you read come join me and subscribe hello im new to this community but ive been reasonably serious about photography since my college days way back in the full bore hippy era i shot nothing but film for decades and i still have a great fondness for everything film does well one thing film does not do well is age and i speak from experience when i say that i just completed a project for an old friend he discovered a cache of his old negatives two dozen rolls of tri x and plus x that he shot in peru and bolivia in 1971 he processed the film but never made any prints so hed never even seen any of the pictures i volunteered to scan them and ill tell you the years had not been kind specks scratches pits in the emulsion embedded fibers missing emulsion that said the photos were wonderful so i took the time to edit the best of them anyone interested in seeing how they came out should check my blog cheers those scans look amazing to me and your stories of piracy are a lesson in karma worth looking at for sure great stuff good evening ive been shooting film for ahem40 years with many different formats looks and subjects new to this reddit game but enjoying it very much website film link posting mostly urban stuff on sometimes expired film with a variety of film cameras from around western germany ruhr duisburg essen dortmund rhine dsseldorf cologne or rarely travel shots europe us sometimes im in the mood for some digital as well right now i like to use a leica q typ116 at the moment i shoot a lot of nikon fe f4s f6 stnbrchr recently i started a new blog with two mates bild37 hello everyone im working with analog medium for the last 5 years mainly shooting black and white in my process i prefer to do all stages by myself currently im working on self publishing my first photobook which was shoot on large format camera im restoring a large amount of kodachrome film my mom collected after my grandfather passed in june 2011 he was a fashion photographer from the 1950s and 60s later in his life he began shooting everything from ghost towns to the sky earth wind and water im sharing some of his work as i scan it on instagram i have over 10000 kodachrome slides film strips which range from the 1970s2000s many are ghost towns what should i do other than share his work on instagram many of the historic landmarks he took photos of have decayed past recognition hi i am a photographer living in italy shooting mainly landscapes with my canon ae1 and pentacon six tl here is my ig any critique is welcome thanks hi everyone i am a hobbyist photographer living and working as an interpreter in graz austria check my instagram at removed stunning thank you this is like a magazine advert nice one huge nostalgia hit for me i remember playing rainbow six on dreamcast and being scared af of the ai i bought a dreamcast while home from college winter break of 99 somewhere theres a polaroid of my friends and i playing i think soul reaver on nye thanks old game shots are always a nostalgia kick for me too its cool how we can hear the console startup sound soundtrack sound effects etc just by seeing a picture oh nice my brother got one around then too with power stone that game blew my mind hope you still have that polaroid i still dream man skies of arcadia jet set radio crazy taxi shenmue soul caliber powerstone 2 hella hit by a wave of nostalgia right now grandia ii outtrigger shenmue i ii are games i will never forget i dont think sega would have failed had people not been able to burn copies of their dreamcast games that was a big factor for sure but ps2 just had so much going for it at the time and people opted to wait backward compatability with improved graphicsload times cddvd player more power better 3rd party support and a shit ton of hype i worked at toys r us in that period and parents lost their shit from you can play all your old ps1 games use the old controllers on games that support it and there is a builtin dvd player

so im new to shooting analog and i really admire the skill and history behind film and all that i mostly just like taking pictures so i got this and this now obviously the diana isnt supposed to be hyper professional but i gotta say its really fun to shoot with and 120mm film is cheap thoughts

someone i know with a great deal of photographic experience considers the nikon f100 the greatest film slr ever i agree really the camera and a lens costs around the same as yours not too bad a price for what you get but i am not sure if the higher shutter speeds on the new 35mm bodies are really worth the price over the used previous gen stuff we have a similar house here in south australia same name more windows though lovely study of it this might be of interest to you wow there are a lot this is so eerie i love it these be very pogger there is actually a fairly recent post on the official leica blog about a photographer whos into photographing these kinda spaceships interesting backstory as well 100 worth a read where is this theres one futuro house near where i live willingboro oh very cool id love to read it if you happen upon it again would you be so kind to share the link thanks of course here it is unfortunately tho i cant find it in english im sorry thank you thank you google translate to the rescue i love delta 100 from your photos i especially love no 3 and 5 from a compositional perspective i need to go out with my kiev 6 a lot more before the winter ends thank you it has been years since i shot delta and am falling in love with it again thanks for the feedback oh yes its giving me the langoliers huge compliment haha you deserve it how did you achieve the green tintor color i guess i almost feel i could look down at my paper and it would be 93 with the lighting its caused by using daylight balances film under fluorescent lights if you dont want the green you need to use a magenta filter to achieve correct balance thank you im very amateur with my own photography so this is cool to know maybe ill experiment liminal spaces great photo here is a link to the data sheet for portrait 800 youll find exposure compensation for different lighting conditions youre welcome

im on my first roll of film kodak gold 200 iso my lens is 50mm obviously have not gotten anything developed yet but im just worried every one is gonna turn out like crap i dont expect them to be immaculate or anything but id like for them to be somewhat okay to look at ive been using a light meter app on my phone i set the iso and it tells me what to set for shutter speed and aperture the first couple i took i was trying to figure it out myself by looking at the light meter in the viewfinder but i could never seem to get it to not be underexposed so someone on another sub suggested the app i had been putting the aperture to the automatic setting but im just not sure what is best manually setting it or using that a mode does anyone have any tips also how do i adjust or work with depth of field i barely know what depth of field means anyway i have been watching videos and reading articles but some in the moment advice from other people seems helpful i am also going to be visiting hawaii in february what settings are best for landscape shots and i assume bright sunny light thank you in advance

1 make sure your camera is set to the correct iso for the film youre using 2 try bracketing a few shots which basically means take the first photo to the exposure setting the applight meter tells you the next picture keep everything the same but change your exposure speed to one faster and then another photo with exposure speed one slower will help you find out where the exposure is going wrong and adjust in the future 3 normally one of the main benefits of using a legit camera is to manually set the aperture a smaller f stop18 2 24 or whatever your camera has gives you a shallower depth of field and lets more light into the camera so you can shoot faster exposure speeds but while youre starting out setting the aperture to automatic while you get familiar should be fine 4 im sure youve read this already but depth of field is the what distances are in focus when you take a picture the lower the number the less distance will be in focus and the more blurry the background will be its usually used single out a subject and distinguish it from its surroundings while on the other hand if the number is biggerlike 22 more things will be in focus like the tree 10 feet away as well as the mountain miles away 5 if youre shooting while just holding the camera in your hands try to keep the shutter speed at or above 160 once you start to dip below that your pictures can come out shaky if youre holding by hand i think thats all ive got for now this is very helpful thank you so much so if i want to shoot landscapes of things far away i should want a bigger number to have more of it in focus and the bigger number would be better for brighter scenes since the opening is smaller i definitely havent had the shutter above 160 except for a couple times outside when it was cloudy but bright with the snow i have mostly been taking photos in lower light so far indoors so i had it at longer speeds will my photos be crap you can look up example images of landscapes taken at different aperture settings different lenses produce different results but some lenses tend to lose their sharpness when you use either extreme correct bigger number is better for bright scenes its not a guarantee theyll be crap but depending how shaky you are they may come out blurry sometimes it ruins a photo sometimes blur improves the look it gives sometimes its not even noticeable theres really no way to know until you see the finished product final thing shooting film indoors can be tricky because artificial light reacts differently with certain types of films whenever youre ready for that look up the different types of film tungsten color negative positive etc etc if you get your pictures back and theyre all grainy and green dont get discouraged it happens pretty easily indoors and when underexposed last last thing film tends to take to be overexposed better than it does being underexposed film can handle being overexposed and still produce a great image some people even exclusively shoot slightly overexposed because they like the way it looks better underexposed pictures tend to suffer from heavy grain strange tints across the whole image and serious lack of detail for example the first 2 are underexposed first one is super grainy second one has a kinda weird tone and a lack of detail third one is over exposed and even with that there is still a lot of color contrast and sharpness compared to the other 2 so if i want it to be a bit overexposed which setting would i adjust aperture sorry im still trying to figure out each thing and get them mixed up sometimes but thank you so much all of this really helps a lot any of them really for now keep your iso setting to whatever your film says but both the f stop and shutter speed can help you get the correct exposure its just up to you what you want to change given the setting your in for example you need to expose more but youre holding your camera by hand you can go down to 160 or lower if you have a tripodsomething you can rest your camera on to keep it still and if thats still not enough you can try lowering your aperture as well sometimes there just isnt enough light to get the image you want at all and youve just got to live with it look up the exposure triangle on google and look at images its a basic chart of how the 3 settings interact with each other thank you ill check it out and youve been very helpful no problem also i messed up its the exposure triangle i was thinking of but both charts help i found this is this pretty accurate some of the charts differ slightly but ill try to go off one for now so i dont get so confused lol yes thats something a lot of film photographers memorize so they can get a general idea of what settings to shoot without a meter im sorry i have just one more question this chart for the depth of field on the left if im wanting to take a photo of the ocean and mountains in the distance i would want it to all be in focus like the bottom image on the aperture side but then it says less light by the bottom picture as well but the ocean and mountains will likely be a bright sunny day so would i not want the smaller number for more light the moreless light marks on that triangle are showing how much light will be let into the camera so the larger the aperture number the less light being let in but i see why it looks confusing the picture you linked comes from a website with an article covering the sunny 16 rule so that should help explain it too ahhhhhh okay that clears that up thank you again no problem if you have any other question feel free to message me anytime and ill help if i can think about keeping a log of each frame and the exposure setting its time consuming but it will give you a frame of reference when you get your film back i agree with overexposure if you are shooting color negative film metering apps are pretty good you are basically trying to control light dont overcomplicate folllow your eye one tip think big bigger biggestmove in or out to change the composition youre going to ruin lots of film in your analog journey just accept it as part of the process find the manual for your camera and read it with your camera in your hand use your light meter app to see if your in camera meter is accurate to a stop or so is fine if it is using a and focussing manually should give good exposures if not youll need to understand the relationship between aperture and shutter speed ill have to see if the meter is accurate if i set the settings to whatever the light meter app tells me to set it to should they come out okay as long as you understand what its telling you your iso is set correctly and youre aware of the potential problems with metering especially high contrast like sky and shade youll be somewhere close often if you can play with the scans you can recover iffy shots just by adjusting things a bit in post doesnt have to mean anything special i use my phones photo app

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may i ask how manageable it is carrying the 500cm around i just sold my rz67 because it was so big and heavy and im looking to replace it love the photo btw its not too bad its pretty light for being a mf system its like 15kg with the 80mm 28 so far its been very manageable the 80 28 is a very stubby lens too so its pretty compact not much bigger than a tlr and thank you the atmosphere is great in this one thank you beautiful where is this in a far flung corner of singapore cool liminal spaces great capture mfer just parked his ufo yes i love photographing spaces like these reminds me of the film arrival is this at kaki bukit yes under the viaduct ive walked under this viaduct from the saf driving centre to the mrt so many times its a pretty cool arealoads of rubbish though nowhere or now here is this a liminal space or place for those who dont belong to anywhere else out of sight out of mind hey there what a great shot do you happen to remember the settings for this picture was the film pushed not pushed at all i think it was 25 hours f11 and shot at box speed im not 100 on exactly how long the exposure was since its all using the bulb setting thank you and congrats for the great shot great lighting wow please go easy on me i know im boring very cozy nice i hear the yashicas are great tell us how it goes when im not lugging my large format equipment out i take pride in a mamiya c330 it shall not disappoint a yashica was my first mf hell it was my first analog camera too hope you get some awesome shots tlrs are great just be careful shooting any close ups depends on the specific tlr this is never an issue with a rolleiflex or even a cheap rolleicord which offer parallax correction in the viewfinder this wasis my firstonly medium format camera its awesome can be a bit difficult to focus and it doesnt do closeups very well but other than that it is awesome i just picked up a mamiya c220 about two weeks ago my first medium format as well have fun getting used to the mirrored viewfinder i still havent gotten the hang of it i have the same one mat124g its fun i shoot 35 mostly because its faster easier etc but medium format for the win this was my first medium format camera too youre gonna love it i can still be caught swinging my hips around trying to the the verticals right in the viewfinder and ive been shooting mf for over a year and lf for three i hear it take many camera hours to get it just right happy shooting sweet i have the nong version and its almost too cool of a camera be prepared to have people stop you every five minutes to ask about it not as crisp or versatile as my rb but damn you cant beat it for portability youre going to love this camera more than yourself i cant tell you how much this camera gives me a special feeling in my special areas try doing all sorts of shots with it to see what you like ive done street and portrature and landscape and all rock im so happy for you i want to go and shoot more myself ah didnt know that thanks for sharing congrats great camera it was my first mf camera as well gonna develope some rolls tonight mboy i really gotta use my rollei already i have one with a set of the original auxiliary lenses i really should use it more yessir put a few rolls through it on the weekend wandering around at a wedding taking candid snaps really looking forward to developing tonight post them when youre done id love to see some if you missed my post before you can check out some of mine here i swear its not link spam the problem with my stuff is that the colour isnt developed by me the shop that did it does a pretty crappy job i have been searching for a few different places and i think i may have found a good place ive never used a tlr before but welcome to the medium format addiction your wallet will hate you man love the street portrait stuff what kind of film did you use for the bw stuff theres a really cool old guy who just repairs cameras nowadays and he has some betterthannewcondition cameras through replacing parts im saving up for a 124g hes selling one of the betterthannewcondition ones for only 200 is it worth it ive tried two types and both are great tmax 400 and ilford delta 400 delta is supposed to have finer grain but i dont really notice i do the bw developing at home so i can control the results i highly recommend doing it yourself you dont need a dark room either just a changing back and then the other things initial setup is about 150 and then the costs afterwards are just for chemicals with are cheap this only lets you develop the film not print the images to do that you need a properish dark room setup and then the only real extra cost is the redlight and the enlarger did the panorama bach come with the camera or did you buy it separatel the prices are a bit insane i think i bought it as part of a kit but it was priced accordingly theyre expensive but theyre uncommon and in demand so it is what it is deleted good collection if you had to choose one camera between the canon or olympus which would it be some if the best shots ive seen here thank you is 5 a popular spot i really like how the fog sits number 5 is sutro tower in sf you can see it almost anywhere in the city it is very popular indeed also i love how the fogcloud sits too i love the canon and the ef lenses i have but id pick the olympus for three reasons one its fully mechanical and wont die on me one day two its a really compact slr way smaller than the canon especially with the 50mm f14 on three that 50mm is my favorite lens that ive ever used its a compact light sucking beast bonus points that the olympus is a handsome classic camera thank you that really means a lot what speed did you shoot the bwxx at ill be loading a roll in a few days and im not sure if i should go for 400 or 800 love the shot of amoeba the recommended speed is 250 outdoors and 200 indoors and thats how i shot it really nice work thanks for sharing wise choice of gear af film slrs have always been vastly under appreciated me too nice no strap yup usually just take one or two shots and put it back into the bag deleted these photos are absolutely insane 2 is great love 3 and 4 nice work weirdly surreal most of your shots are something id put on my wall some lovely photos here thanks for sharing wow these are amazing did you push the film down 1 stop before each shot dude id make an album cover with these the first 4 are amazing good job 3 is absolutely amazing ditto 1 is cool too did you achieve this by hand or with a tripod and flipping the camera 180 degrees do you have a rig for putting your camera upside down on a tripod thanks love lomo you are absolutely right the first 3 are rad 3 is blowing my mind 3 is a trip love it amazing all by hand just framed the first pic then flipped the camera upside down and lined it up the same way wow you got it very accurately for simple hand holding congrats congrats on making it through the check list to actually to be able to make a lf photo have fun lf large format two photos of our neighbours dog max he has been retired from his work on a farm as a sheep dog due to a throat cancer thankfully the tumour has no nerve connections and thus causes him no pain max is a very smart good natured albeit smelly boy here he is enjoying some meat scraps from dinner time first photo f4 1125 second photo f2 1500 the film stock is expired by about 2530 years developed using ddx at 20c neg flip and light contrast lift done in darktable haha nice shots i love how the texture of the film and shallow depth adds to his shabbiness aaaaaah hes so cute nice shots

im trying to find zoom lenses for my asahi pentax sp1000 i wanted it to be between 3080mm but all i can find are bayonet mounts my camera works with a screw mount hence my search is being difficult i cant imagine that back in the day they didnt have any screw mount zoom lenses that had a wide angle

deleted and zoom lenses date back to 1900 makinon 28 80mm 35 continuous is what ive used previously pretty happy with it but the version with continuous aperture doesnt seem too common old zoom lenses werent good and it took a while for them to figure out how to make wide angle zooms they exist but are not common or good they didnt really kick off until the 70s the only zoom lenses ive used that would work with m42 and are even worth considering are the tamron adaptall 2 lenses you can get an m42 adapter for it but ive never owned one the lenses are pretty good and can be used on pretty much any camera body as long as you can find the appropriate attachment m42 zooms are pretty horrible and once you add in the age zoom creep and additional complexity inside with attendant lubrication issues most of us avoid them the earliest i tend to trust and even then only if i need the flexibility is early pentax k mount m and a series smc zooms usually survive well m42 is so easy to change lenses on i just keep another focal length in my pocket and accept the restrictions and enjoy the benefits of primes get a vivitar series 1 3585mm f28 lens under 100 on ebay do you have any hint for adapters thats acc a great idea its literally a system tamron made that uses different mounts for the same lens they made the lens and then you would buy the appropriate mount for each camera you wanted to use it on just look up tamron adaptall 2 oh sorry im dumb i read adaptall as adapter p no worries its technically an adapter deleted ive been seeing a fair number of cpc phase 2 2850mm 13545 lenses for m42 on ebay no experience on my part as to quality ive been thinking about picking up something like that for myself one hint dont bother with trying to filter listings by lens mount a lot of listings dont bother to specify it or have the wrong one anyway just look at interesting listings and check the photos takumar primes are stunning the zooms not so much the widest tak zoom is the 45125f4 its huge 67mm filter heavy 605g complicated 14 elements rare and expensive seriously save yourself the pain and get a nice set of primes this is the answer i began my career on the canon fd system and sharp close focusing prime lenses like a simple 2428 3518 or 1352 were a joy to use and make images with we all chased after zooms and the dream of a zoom lens or two replacing our bag of primes but even the better zoom lenses like my fd 203535l were a let down in many ways the just werent as sharp fast bright and often didnt focus nearly as close as the bag of primes we were used to alt text a multigenerational family of 4 child two parents and grandparent sit on a park bench beside stow lake in san franciscos golden gate park thats lovely love the bridge and the city lights around the fireworks quacker of a photo lovely love this they are coming for usgreat photo wonderful this gives me steve mccurry vibes love it oh id buy this great photo 50000 people used to live here now its a goose town parque da cidade porto portugal right hell yea im amazed by this place great photo its nice to see people not overediting portra 400 this is a banger it genuinely made me happy for some reason great work 100 agree look at all these chickens excellent i wish i had a way to gift thank you so much precisely we cant stop here this is goose land im convinced this is a still from a goose movie im on board this would make a killer big ol print looking 3d did you meter this in the shade or the sunny part of the picture great picture i pointed the light meter at the goose so it exposed for shadows perfect for an album cover look at that perfect goose step formation waterproof chickens hey loving the tones in the photo would love to know what scanner was used now feed them and watch them start running towards you lol theyre all coming to clock in because the shift starts at 700 and its 703 beautiful peace peace was never an option oh man lol i love this the depth and colour are exquisite such a great photo a gaggle of geese on the green grass great shot i like that you left the edges uncropped amazing lovely piece would really enjoy a cut of the first four on the left big gang vibes check out my personal cut with this image on my instagram this weirdly evokes a lot of senses i can almost head some whimsical marching song great stuff this makes me laugh and i love it wait what its a quote from cpt quackmillan i like them too thanks for sharing i dont have a 75 mm lens for my rb67 use a 50 a lot but you may have inspired me to look for one thank you i appreciate that i love the 75mm at around 40mm equivalent its a nice balance for landscapes youre so right dont know why i didnt think of it before i love the 42mm on my little olympus 35sp so it should have followed in my tiny brain i guess im just too in love with that 50 to see past it thank you now i have a quest for 2023 oh and not to be presumptuous but i think those three would look nice contact print size or just a little larger three in a horizontal row in a single frame though spaced farther than the film frames very nice thanks again for starting my 2023 off right very nice thanks for sharing totally agree on the contact sheets thanks for the recommendation i appreciate that thanks i guess its out with the old and in with the new to me for the new year thinking about rb lenses there is no 75 turns out i must have been thinking of the 65 but thats here nor there got me looking around and as a result i think im going to trade in my rb kit never made as much use of the interchangeable backs as i thought i would on a fuji gm670 wish me luck such a cool perspective the exposure and texture are gorgeous well done amazing i almost scrolled right past because i thought it was a drawing on one of my art subs thanks the grain certainly helps thank you i got funny looks stopping on the stairs but had to when i saw it great picture are these the stairs in the sydney university business building the contrast is lovely good eye visited there recently beautiful architecture that it is the whole uni is full of nice architecture nice work so cool i love the 24 28 underrated imo hi unanideska3218 i have been going back and forth between the 42mm 12 and the 40mm 14 ive read a handful of places that the f12 is considerable softer than the f12 but your photo here look really sharp x200b do you have any more examples of the 42mm 12 also are you happy with your purchase of this lens and is it worth the extra do you have other ft lenses tia i mean for priceperformance i will definitely go for the 40 f14 the 42 f12 indeed has some softness to it but once stopped down to f28 should be perfectly fine my gf gifted me this lens so it s definitely worth it for me but personally i will just go for the 40 f14 to save some not my leica and also not my cat lol i used to have the 38 f18 but yea i sold it once i got this lens also at f12 the lens is really hard to focus correctly since the dof is too shallow while shooting i hardly ever use f12 but it does yield some cool images certainly city and the cafe tea house at f12 also one of the reasons why the 42 f12 is so expensive is because it s rare if i remember correctly feel free to correct me if i am wrong there were only over 2000 lens produced

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cool shots i like number 4 the most did you share photography with your son or did he share it with you i shared it with him when he was 16 years old a few years on now and his girlfriend just took a film photography class at her college because he introduced it to her this is fantastic thanks this means a lot ive been avoiding bw for the longest time but recently got on a hp5 streak and i am absolutely loving it amazing shot love the composition and feel this is a winner i think not cropping the edge of the head would have been nice but i doubt most onlookers will notice very cool project as mentioned the head is cropped partly but it doesnt bother me too much there are actually three things that bother me more first the petty one theres a waterdrop under her chin which just pulls my attention second she has bloodshot eyes which changes the emotion for me third we can see her thumb but nothing more of her right hand i would advise to have her hand in the image or not but not partly still a cool picture though removed love the styling and lighting on this shot removed appreciate this perspective i actually had the urge to crop in a bit more and felt a small strip of white space along the top would look odd ill play around with some other cropping options in the darkroom thanks thanks thanks appreciate your thoughts re blood shot eyes this was shot in the middle of the day with plenty of sleep so i think it actually might be an effect of layering in the tobacco 2 filter pretty much everything got turned a shade of red which looks fairly natural everywhere outside of the white of the eye and the pupil more experimenting to come if the backdrop ending above her head is the issue pay someone 510 to photoshop it cleanly if youre not great with photoshop like me i think fixing that crop would make a huge difference imo love the shot though regardless reminds of the dirt album cover from alice in chains removed are you this looks so good i love it to crop or not to crop that is the question i like the shot colours and doesnt look overly processed which is refreshing thats the first thing i noticed awesome shot i know its not the intention but im choosing to believe shes baking super hard or she was trying to make fried chicken and the battering process got really out of hand interesting way of seeing it i dig the creative perspective thanks thanks superb work thank you picked up this old soviet rangefinder for pretty cheap at an antique store and this was my test roll honestly im just happy that it mostly works for the price i just got these back and theres a white line in the same spot on all of the photos when advancing the film the shutter curtains seem to start further apart and then close over each other sorry i dont know how else to explain it it can be seen here in this clip could this be the issue or something else edit i should mention that i have tried shining a light through from the front with the lens and back off and did see a leak through the seam in the curtains so im guessing this is it i dont know that im ready to invest a lot of in this camera so would advancing the film with a lens cap on solve this the curtains overlapping more as you wind is not the same problem as you can see in your photos most of them are even across the frame although the last one with the bridge might have been at a very high shutter speed showing the right side darker than the left that marking is from a leak at the the hinge on the back door next to the take up spool that is why it lines up on the frame there this is a common problem with all the cameras that use felt or foam door seals there is a little felt strip on each side of the back door the one on the take up spool side is not connecting enough to the camera back and light is leaking in shining on the film since the exposure is super long whenever the camera is out the leak can be extremely weak and still be a problem if you replace this with a thin strip of foam or some kind of replacement felt it should go away thanks for your help that would make sense in this case the whole back of the camera slides off theres no hinges or foam but it definitely seems possible that light could be entering there just to clarify is the seam area where the back slides on where the door hinge would be where you think its coming from heres a couple of pics the first one with the circled area is the seam on the take up spool side you can see in the second pic that the case covers the seams but it seems totally possible light would still be able to get through edit one more with the back pulled partially down yes that is it i could be wrong but almost every time it is that seam i forgot you are talking about a fed with the leica iii style door light could still leak down in past the case since the exposure is so long basically like a pinhole camera a bit inconvenient and holga but you could put a small strip of electrical tape over that edge when you shoot your next roll then if the problem disappears youll know for sure what is going on thanks i think ill give the tape a shot at least its inexpensive and ill know if thats the problem shot on yashicamat24 medium format something about this shot immediately made me hear tom waits music in my head thats good thing beautiful just followed your instagram i love your stuff bro thank you i appreciate it removed where can i find you on ig would love to follow you as well removed removed removed a lot of nice colors there i like how at first glance they are muted but at second glance they seem to glow i believe i pushed this one to 400 one of those shots i didnt know would come out looking decent thank you i took the sane picture last week nice one beautiful colors and composition great job excellent wonderful capture gold was the perfect film for this scenery looks amazing beautifully framed for fun i would have named it blue hat thanks awesome picture makes me relive memories based on locations loved it

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my question is how did you get the white square in there without leaving any trace done in photoshop deleted deleted thank you so much removed cool now do it slower lindo agree if it were twice as slow at least you could appreciate the shots much more little faster please are you on ig i need to follow you could you put up these shots in just a collage they look stunning and i want to appreciate them hes barnabyboulton agree these guys fuck beautiful shots could you repost them in a slideshow so we can really appreciate them though whats anyone on a photography forum meant to take away from such a fast slide show beyond huh i think i saw a bunch of bikinis maybe all these pictures look the same is there anything in brazil there well taken photos and beautiful images i would like to take more time to look at the shots some of the pictures where taken in portugal right heres a slower version alternatively most of these photos end up on my instagram barnabyboulton if youre interested i absolutely love my autocord this was from my first roll having recently acquired it i am very impressed so far amazing tones here honestly great edit thank you im glad you like it i havent been shooting in awhile but the tones almost looked more like trix when i first saw it which isnt a bad thing but a preference i prefer i suppose good on ya i enjoy doing the same same film same scanner and nearly same camera 35sp too funny its fun to have this much of the process in your own hands i wont ever have the ability to analog print at home but this is close enough to get me to the images i want to have printed and then turn those over to a local professional what filter did you use pro mist forgot if 18 or 14 love the reflection thanks i do too snapped this pretty quick when i walked by didnt catch it at first

film prices are already at an all time high with the increasing popularity of this medium will this deter current or potential film photographers going forward how will it impact you how will you adapt

looks like im gonna be shooting exclusively in black and white this year anything in particular ilford budget stuff probably hp5 kentmere or if im feeling spicy delta 400 others though perhaps shanghai gp3 if you can get it is like 5 per roll if not those then perhaps expired tmax 100 ilford a solid shout tbf will expired roll go up in price too if you only had to shoot 1 bw stock what would it be i hope not but well see hopefully the recently expired discount will put it down to pre last years price and honestly delta 100 ive somehow shot more rolls of that than anything else i accumulated like 12 rolls at one point while buying job lots including specific other films how about you if its bw then it depends if shooting portraits then its a tough call between delta or hp5 depends on the mood im going having said that hp5 if had only one choice ilford used to make colour film long way back i think would be good to see them foray in that direction again pretty sure prices are not at an all time high in comparison to when my question is where is the 17 coming from is it on the wholesale or the retail price if its a 17 spike on the wholesale then it might only feel like a 5 on the retail due to markups i dont have access to wholesale film costs but im assuming rolls would be 1314 the cost to a consumer if youre a retailer in comparison to the past when accounting for inflation prices were as high or higher mid 2000s film prices were historically low kodaks reasoning for the price increase is that theyre trying to ramp up production to meet demand the problem theyre going to run into is they increased prices about the same percentage last year for the same reason goodwill runs dry and if they dont show something for it a new emulsion return of old popular stocks budget stocks anything really that goodwill will be done orwo and adox have publicly working on color emulsions for a minute now and while theyre much smaller if they get their stocks out and theyre easily accessible for photographers they will eat away at kodaks monopoly that loss of goodwill would go a long way towards bolstering any company that puts out a color emulsion that isnt just a repackage kodak has been relying too heavily on its monopoly on the color film market and if they dont give something to consumers to make it worth it theyll be seeing the writing on the wall when other companies come calling i will probably end up shooting lots of black and white like many others here but i really feel these price hikes are a growing pain of an industry coming back to life kodak has recently hired 300 new employees for production i believe and i feel this is a good sign that money is being reinvested into the field i think that combined with pentaxs announcement about developing new film cameras its only a matter of time before the prices will level out pretty well fair play thank you for the detailed feedback looking forward to seeing these new emulsions then any idea of what they will be gonna try to buy more cinestill bwxx while its still 10 i dont shoot kodak so i dont care color film is a dying medium for most users it seems to me kodak makes great film everyone knows this adjusting for inflation along with everything else in this economy its not a surprise this wont deter people from wanting a reliable beautiful and consistent film time to shoot kentmere why are you getting downvoted there were a bunch of recent articles that went through film prices over the last century and youre absolutely correct of course everyone wants whatever thing they want to be cheaper i want my golden kiwis to be less than 6 a package just because they want to spend less but people just love to sensationalize random but normal occurrences i figured it was just that my comment did not fit the current narrative of outrage at film prices or hating on color analog photography im no fam of the price increases since my favorite films are color seems like you might be in a bit of a bubble one word fomapan i have a about 10 rolls each of kentmere pan 100 and 400 plus a 100 bulk roll of hp5 laid down in the freezer and a small selection of other random rolls of colour film in the fridge itll be a little while before i have to worry about kodak price increases and maybe things will settle out by then i will adapt by continuing to shoot bw and fuji slide same as always another 100ft roll of arista edu stop buying from that shit company buy more film stocks by rollei and foma only companies producing film stocks at a reasonable price and their stocks are way better than tri x hang on to my few rolls of ultramax and portra 400 and limit use strictly for special occasions no more keeping the camera in the car for regular days out to get random snaps for memories i guess thats what my phone will take care of noticed any difference between this and the delta range ive been shooting film exclusively for about 12 years but stopped buying it last year due to price increase i bought a second hand fuji xt2 and i am just as happy with it with age im concentring on the photographs not the just the medium and a digital camera is a great tool that can also give you filmlike images if thats what youre looking for and now im saving so much money which is not bad either how do you find the film emulation is it like for like better worse have you tried any phone app film emulators thats quite specific any particular draw on the fuji slide 5 a roll a good shout probably another 12 years before it eases off might be a different landscape of films available then too when in rome fair play kentmere is goated imo learn something new everyday kodak has a d credit rating making it impossible to raise debt and the stock is worthless essentially theyre trying to raise money to increase production and meet demand so that there are no droughts again also in the midst of high inflation and supply chain problems very difficult business climate and im surprised its only 17 film is a niche luxury product now and they can and should charge like it so that they can continue to survive and we can continue to have great films i have not reason for shooting film is to add the negs to our family collection thats been on the go since the 50s dont get me wrong i do love the whole operation and concept of taking a picture with chemistry and how it looks but i like film for the tradition and being able to have a tote of pictures that can be rediscovered one day inflation may start to ease over the next year or two but its safe to say that kodak are essentially making a luxury item leica started producing m6s again and pentax are looking for a come back so i guess its safe to say watch this space fair play similar to analog records it will be a relatively tiny but significant sustained resurgence in the hobby space where prices will always be higher and volume will be lower but if thats what it takes to keep film around as an option im here for it in the same vein you can now buy brand new record players and brand new records but for most people even the enthusiasts it will not be the primary way of consuming music the best color film available true that how why slide film has more vibrant colors than print film true that careful pointing out that film used to be much more expensive and was artificially low in cost folks dont take too kindly to that around here i plan on shifting my household budget to meet that increase and i plan on shooting 17 less photos and putting more thought and effort into the ones i do shoot i like kodak and i like their products and will make it work in my country they sell rolled kodak vision 3 for 67 a roll and all labs develop it in c41 after remjet removal the result is like a very slight push and quality is fantastic same tech as portra much better than cinestill since the remjet is removed after use so there are no halos thats pretty good value some like the halation effect though about 40 in a couple of years isnt just adjusting for inflation is the source kosmo foto i dont doubt kodak will increase but i am a bit skeptical of articles that make a claim and only site we have learned without stating how or where theyve gathered the info i wont be impacted i have film in my freezer for the next couple of years i might buy some before the price goes up because it wont be coming down during the past year or two shortages of color film have shown there is quite a bit of demand and price elasticity kodak is doing whats right for them id recommend to others to do bw film and process it yourself sounds reasonable sage advice thank you have been using nothing but bw for a long time now have a large stock of kodak trix thatll ill work through have been increasingly more deliberate with every shutter release may dabble less in color than i planned but the bw will only increase as i complete three works in progress and begin new ones i mean id that means itll be more readily available then that would actually save me money so im okay with it film is just way too hard to get a hold of so i end up paying a ton more for second hand stock up and get more focused with your own photography good advice fair play is that the actual math ah you know what i havent really done a side by side but from what ive seen of kentmere it looks really great just enough contrast and grain sounds good might need to do a little test its worse in some specific ways a 5 pack of portra 400 was 45 just a couple of years ago and its like 80 now nearly double was loving nicknamed cuntmere at my art school for how bad it was whaaat kentmere my beloved bulk bulk bulk has anybody done the updated math on cost of trichrome vs cost of colour film yet lmao it must be getting close ignoring all the up front costs true thats because kodak was giving the stuff away to try keep alaris operational now theres demand theyre gonna try make money of it haha yes i might abandon ship and shoot digital only it was good while analog photography lasted well perhaps the fuji xt range might be an option with all its film emulators love the shadows and light on this one thats fucking spot on what flash are you using for this i love these so much i used to live in this exact area and moved out during spring i was really sad i didnt get to see the snow there this winter thank you glad you liked it man these shots are soooo good makes me nostalgic even though i still live here just picked up a rollei 35 myself yesterday your shots make me so hyped to put it to action thanks mate thats lovely wish you a good time shooting wow this is a really good composition love the people in silhouette thanks made a mistake in the title and cant edit this was actually shot on kodak p3200 this is extraordinarily well done thanks a lot

feeling stupid just came back from a trip was so excited to develop the rolls i shot with one roll left to extract from my nikon f3 it slowly dawns on me upon rolling that i miiight have not loaded properly is there any way to tell without exposing the whole roll i rolled the leader in as well but it has been retrieved edit im an idiot

no process it and see if anything comes out i always snug up the rewind lever and then i watch the rewind knob to see that it rotates while the camera winds to the next frame watched a ton of videos and this seemed like the best tell live and learn i guess if you develop yourself you can do clip developing that is in complete darkness cut off the first 30 cm or so and develop them if it is exposed you can develop the rest and only l lose one frame where you cut if it is unexposed you can shoot the rest as 24exp or so i was also thinking this had to be an alternative though i have access to a darkroom on campus they only have the chemistry to develop black and white but thank you for affirming my assumption

use this thread to ask any and all questions about analog cameras film darkroom processing printing technique and anything else film photography related that you dont think deserve a post of their own this is your chance to ask a question you were afraid to ask before a new thread is created every monday to see the previous community threads see here please remember to check the wiki first to see if it covers your question

please consider checking out our sister subreddit ranalogcommunity for more discussion based posts our global list of film labs can be found here if you are looking for somewhere to develop your film guides on the basics of film photography can be found here including scanning what would be the different use cases for 1 5 and 10 spot meters can they be useful for portraits or is it mostly for landscapes where one cant get an incident light reading i believe theyre the same use case a 1 degree being preferred and the others are a cost compromise where they may be fine depending on the field of view angle just for example landscape with a wide lens 5 vs 1 is probably not going to matter i often just go with incident but same location with different framing through a 600mm and id want 1 because a 5 metering exceeds the size of the field of view angle my girlfriend wants to scrapbook for the year with wallet size pictures but was interested in a film camera neither of us are really big on photography so my question is if they can be developed in wallet size pictures as that is what shes looking for googling didnt really give me an answer thanks checkout instax mini cameras and film you can get prints of any size from digital scans of film but there might be a better option the instax mini cameras shoot instant film thats almost the same size as a credit card very walletsized and its such a popular format that you can get frames and albums for the pictures on amazon the cameras are also largely pointandshoot so great if youre a beginner to film also even though theres a color film shortage instax mini film is still fairly available can i get a recommendation on where to buy lenses for my minolta x700 also maybe a price range i should expect for a decent but still amateur lens im not sure which prices would be fair for something like this thanks to those who dont have a local film developer and is living in a far away town do you just send your films away via post is it safe i use postin labs all the time even when i have local options never had a problem back in the day they were super popular hey im looking at trying out film photography and im wondering what would be a good camera to get as a sort of introduction ive already got an olympus om10 but id have to get it looked at by a shop is it worth taking it in or are there better options on the used market id be pretty much exclusively be shooting naturelandscapemacromaybe if that would make a difference with film types thanks hi everyone i have a question about film camera my cameras wind lever is loosened but its still doing all the job and the film is advancing smoothly but its not resetting automatically so after its pushed to the end i have to reset it manually so the question is does this means my camera needs cla or something is broken and should i adjust it asap to avoid further problems or i can leave it like that and it wont cause further damage to the honest it doesnt bother me a lot as long as its not a sign that something inside is broken thank you guys om10 is a great camera is there something specifically wrong with it that needs repair there are a few common repairs on those that are pretty easy to do yourself you wont need it for most general shooting but you should know that theres a manual adapter available that plugs into the front and gives you shutter speed control that could be good for learning since you can experiment more directly with shutter speed to get a feel for what it does youre basically between ebay and whatever your local classifieds service is fb marketplace craigslist kijiji gumtree etc you can look at sold listings on ebay to get a sense of what things go for price will depend on the lens of course nothing wrong with it that i can tell but i got it a a yard sale years back and it hadnt been touched since it was bought new lol still has the sales receipt and everything in the bag id just be getting it cleaned and whatnot and yes i was wondering what that little piece is edit also some of the lenses are a little scratched up so id want to see if those could be fixed makes me worry about the state of the mirror or whatevers in the camera itsself if thats the case then i would just go for it get a cheap roll of film and have a good time just make sure you have good batteries in there you can quickly test it out with no film make sure the light meter works set the dial around the rewind crank to on and you should see a little indicator led inside the viewfinder to tell you the shutter speed by pointing it at different lighting conditions and seeing if the number moves then take a couple test shots and see if the sound of the shutter changes with the light you may want to check out the light seals theyre probably all gone thats the foam around the rear door that stops light leaks from happening pretty easy to replace yourself i wouldnt necessarily rule out getting it fixed up at a shop but i would definitely prioritize just shooting a roll alright sounds good fella also while were here one question is there supposed to be a piece of foam between the film and the opening to the aperture are you maybe seeing the shutter curtain thats what opens and shuts to produce proper exposures it should look like this so if youre seeing something different then there might be an issue if you leave the back open and wind the advancefire the shutter you should see the shutter cock and then openclose do this inside with the fstop somewhere small like f16 or whatever your lens goes to and it should stay open for some time yep thats it thanks as you can see i am very much unfamiliar with film cameras haha any 35mm film recommendations ive seen gold 200 for a reasonable price hello i am new to film photography and got a kodak ektar h35 as my first film camera i wanted to buy the kodak gold 200 and kodak colorplus 200 but both were out of stock so i was wondering if using a remjet film would be okay for the camera any thoughts whatever colour film is cheap youre gonna take a bunch of lousy pictures and thats totally ok but it definitely means its not worth using portra as your first ever roll of film i would suggest reading through the manual of your camera as it will tell you everything you need to know in order to get shooting if you are familiar with digital cameras then youre in a good place because basically everything you know is transferrable if not dont be too focused on filmspecific resources unless its truly a filmonly topic like how to load film or something the basics of exposure lenses composition etc all transfer between film and digital just fine thank you so much v kind of a good idea to mention the camera youre asking about someone may have specific experience with it well you can get an incident reading for a landscape if youre standing under the same light she sun and sky are pretty big an incident meter is telling you how much light is hitting the subject vs how much light is reflecting off of it spot meters are most popular for zone system bw work you take a shadow reading and decide where to place the shadows do you want them really detailed and bright or darker then you figure out your base exposure the exposure youll actually shoot with usually 23 stops over the shadow reading if shadows meter at f28 your exposure might be f56 or 8 then you take a reading where you want to hold texture in the highlights if the highlight reading is more than 3 stops or so beyond your actual exposure it will be hard to maintain texture like fine details of clouds so you make a note to reduce development with e6 film a spot meter can help you know if highlights will be out of range and blown out a big part of spot metering is understanding the dynamic range of the scene and if elements you want to have printable will be inrange with color films you dont have a lot of leeway for development changes to control highlights before color casts come into play and c41 is fairly forgiving for highlight rolloff often with c41 and widetonal range scenes its better to bracket a couple exposures though if you dont have an eye for scene range vs c41 a spot meter could help you understand if the shot you envision is even possible like a backlit subject where you want to also hang onto the sky behind the subject a spot meter that works with flashstrobes can be really handy for studio shooting its fine for the camera but may screw up when the film gets developed if the remjet isnt removed first anyone an expert with shooting ilford hp5 plus 35mm any tips for shooting with this stock theres not really expertise for most bw film stocks until you get into some specialty films success comes down to understanding why we say expose for the shadowsdevelop for the highlights testing any bw film developer combination to find how it performs on your specific final output scanning or enlarger printing and what type of enlarger or scanner understanding how to dial in negatives so you get the shadow detail and highlight texture you desire in your final output understanding theres no correct iso or developing time its personalized and when you dial it in to what you want you get better results understanding how roll films are a development compromise and how to deal with it ie you cant develop for specific scenes or images like you can with sheet film understanding that we have far more control of contrast in printing or post than we have in exposure and development get a full range of tones on the neg and then set the contrast you want in your final output if youre developing yourself and printingscanning yourself you have a lot of control and you can test specifically or dial in your negs over time if youre using a lab its a good idea to bracket some exposures and see how the scans look if you find giving the film more light ie rating it at 200 vs 400 gives you great shadows but blown highs you may want to rate a roll at 200 and ask the lab to pull development a half stop or more people are gonna say push it to 800 for the contrast man or whatever but they rarely show an example of how thats worked and what you want may be very different the idea of easy to printscan negs is subjective we see a lot of i push film for the contrast and to my eye it often looks terrible with big blobs of black where some detail or texture would be nice so over time developing an idea of how contrast and tonality affects a composition and the viewers eye is a good goal thank you this is great some reputable places to buy from in the us that offer warranties keh camera used photo pro thank you be sure to read the condition of the lens used photo pro shows photos of the actual item for sale keh doesnt on its web site but they have a store on ebay that does you may want to look on ebay for the item for sale by keh and then purchase it from the keh site to save some money thanks for your thanks hi random question but in doing some research i have noticed that all the best film developing shops use digital scanners that are seemingly outdated fujifilm frontier noritsu etc i understand that with the advent of digital photography and the resulting downturn in film sales many of the larger companies ceased manufacturing new machines so my question is are there any industrial digital scanners that achieve the same quality as the older machines currently being manufactured in 2023 remjet wont make a difference to the camera but it will for developing it requires a special process that most labs wont do stick to colour film thats c 41 process or try black and white 1 if on a sunnyharsh and well defined shadows day consider shooting at 200250 and reducing development accordingly this is general to all 400 speed films 2 i dont like acutance developers rodinal fx1 beutler for films over 125 speed in 35mm grain starts to be obtrusive full strength d76id68 or ddx have worked well for me otherwise its a veery good 400 film and it does what it claims in the box thank you usa based i send most my film used to use usps but they lost 4 of my rolls from a mexico trip now use ups and have never had an issue i dont know much about scanners but off the top of my head hassleblad make some drum scanners flextight but these were discontinued in 2019 question on lenses on most if not every manual focus lens ive used there are distance marks on the focus ring but whats the reference point the lenses use my assumption would be the film plane but ive had a camera that seemed to match its focus distance to the end of the lens itself i also had a lot of shots that missed focus with said camera so im skeptical about this one the focusing glass was adjustable in this camera so maybe the prior owner made some illinformed adjustments the reference point is the film plane some cameras have a mark on top a circle with a line through it representing where the film plane is i want to start developing my own bw i have a 2 roll patterson tank from a friend and have ordered some d76 developer ilford fixer i have a few questions about tools 1 what size measuring cylinders should i get how accurate do the graduations need to be ie could i just get a kitchen measuring cup at a second hand shop 2 how accurate do temps need to be i have a spare aquarium heater so can keep a bath of water at a reasonably steady temp but i will need to get a thermometer to be more confident with the temp i suspect the aquarium heater dial is not very precise will any thermometer do 3 do i need special chemical bottles for storing stuff i have an bunch of tinted glass bottles around that are reasonably opaque if i keep them in a dark area will that be fine what sizes are useful i am a total diy film photographer who took up the hobby a couple of years ago i feel like i have hit a plateau and i dont know what tools resources i should turn to in order to go to the next level i shoot on an minolta x700 usually with cinestill 800t or portra 400 using aperture priority mode i do a ton of concert photography but would like to do more candid portraits and documentaryesque candids for example here is a pic from the most recent roll i developed this represents what the majority of my pictures look like i believe this was taken on portra 800 pushed to 1600 its obviously lowlight which is more challenging but this post uses the same camera same film but feels so much more interesting and sharp especially around the body of the subject ive taken some lowlight pics i like but its rare and even my best stuff lacks clarity and interest should i try a new lens are there online resources i should check out to expand my skills should i shoot in manual mode any help would be appreciated 1 the paterson tank uses 290 ml per roll so the most chemistry youd need to measure is 580 ml larger measuring cups are useful for mixing up chemistry for d76 they dont have to be very accurate since its typically used either straight or at 11 dilution if you use very concentrated developers such as rodinal or hc110 a more accurate graduated cylinder or a syringe is useful for measuring small quantities accurately 2 for bw the chemistry and wash water should all be within a few degrees of each other drastic changes in temperature can cause the film emulsion to wrinkle a defect called reticulation i dont use a water bath for bw unless its very hot and developing times would be very short you will need a reasonably accurate thermometer 3 if you have brown glass bottles they should be fine air is the enemy of developer so make sure caps are tight and seal well size depends on the quantity of chemistry youre mixing up in a batch thanks is it reasonable to assume a thermometer sold by the lab for home developing is going to be good enough my yashica mat 124g fire the wrong shutter speed while on bulb mode all shutter speeds and aperture work just fine except when in bulb mode it fire almost at 1500 which is the wrong speed any ideas why that happen and how to fix it thanks my guess is a worn gear for what its worth heres the repair manual with exploded views there are many many resources available online some are free and some want you to pay for them as noted in this article its not all about the gear an average photographer with an expensive camera wont necessarily take a better photo than an expert with an old manual camera you should concentrate on learning how to use the camera you have although this article is directed towards digital photography theres a lot that applies to any photography for more go to startpage and enter how to become a better photographer without the quote marks speaking from a background of ra4 colour development background which is way more sensitive to temp than bw 1 mine went up in 1ml or 5ml measuments i think a measuring cup will suffice 2 temperature doesnt matter so much in bw in colour the temperature leads to colour shifts in bw i think it just changes the speed of development what you want is repeatability so you want to be able to make the chemicals a certainsame temperature tomorrow next month and next year it could be room temptre or it could be heated its all a accounted for in dev time im pretty sure my thermometer measured in half degrees celcius the more precise the better for repeatability a sous vide wand is the standard for heating just remember if the tank isnt pre warmed then the developer will drop in temp when added a pre headed water wash can help or just keeping the tank in heated water for a couple of mins 3 avoid accordion bottles as they develop holes your main goal is to keep air out of the bottles glass bottles are fine and you can add marlbes to fill in the air space a better solution which i used to use was wine bags i had 5l ones and they have a little one way tap attached you remove the tap add the chemicals reattach the tap squeeze the air and the first bit of chemicals out of the open tap now its air tight dont break and you can have up to 5l chemicals on tap without air getting in the see through ones are better than foil because you can see the air bubbles when filling good photos first of all if you feel like youve reached a plateau then definitely get a new lensfocal length itll definitely be a breath of fresh air id say you shouldnt rely on your meter and definitely learn to shoot in manual mode its a good skill to have if you feel like your photos lack interest then step out of your comfort zone instead of shooting concerts shoot portraits and band pics outside of a concert setting is that creed bratton whats your scanning set up look like fuzziness can definitely be a result of subpar scans the example photo you posted is not candid and doing candid work benefits from the law of large numbers spray and pray obviously its a lot more economical to work that way in digital compared to film i think you should look at resources regarding framing and composition youve got the mechanics of getting a properly exposed shot but its not really telling a story or asking questions of the viewer you might find a photographer than you like and see if theyre leading a 52 frames challenge for the next year thank you its a kodak retina ib i have just been getting back into shooting film after 15 years away i have had 2 rolls of 36 frame fuji provia in my fridge for about that long as well as some rolls of bw is it worth shootingprocessing what size measuring cylinders should i get how accurate do the graduations need to be ie could i just get a kitchen measuring cup at a second hand shop yes and make sure mark a big skullbones in it to mark it was used for darkroom chemicals and not to use it in the kitchen 2 how accurate do temps need to be i have a spare aquarium heater so can keep a bath of water at a reasonably steady temp but i will need to get a thermometer to be more confident with the temp i suspect the aquarium heater dial is not very precise will any thermometer do as long its consistent yes do not use the dial type thermometers as they can be quite off something like this is overkill for your use case and cheap enough for the peace of mind overall development times are bendable to your situation for example most developers specify times for a particular contrast index appropiate for a 7 stop scene using a diffusion enlarger shoot on a sunnycrispy day and use a pure condenser enlarger and youll probably want to lower the contrast index by giving a bit less time paper gradesscurve tool in lightroom adjust minor variances handily do i need special chemical bottles for storing stuff i have an bunch of tinted glass bottles around that are reasonably opaque if i keep them in a dark area will that be fine what sizes are useful theyre fine you only need tinted bottles for the developer stop and fixer are not affected by light 1lquart bottles are good for your 2 roll tank i recommend 1 opaque bottle for developer 1 clearwhatever for stop indicator bath 1 clearwhatever for first fix 1 clearwhatever for 2nd fix 1 clearwhatever for a distilled water final washdunk after your running water film wash in order to clear water marks you can add 20 isopropyl alcohol to that wash in order to speed up drying when youve processed enough films from 8 to 12 promote your 2nd fixer bottle to 1stfix and refill the 2nd fix with fresh fixer some people will say you dont need stop bath and just water works fine i dont do this but to each their own deleted definitely is provia is super expensive these days so throwing it out would be foolish cold stored film lasts alot longer if it expires and you could get some cool results otherwise ill take it off your hands did anyone succeed with xray film pinhole i just get fogged film it is about 40 ei i think youre right and i was wrong its velvia 100 i checked the date code and its from 2003 ill post to this forum when i shoot it hard to believe the price on this stuff now its all i used to shoot but after this i cant see buying it at this price i dont think theres anything like it or provia screw that if youre in the us get a thermopop the 12 sale just ended but at 21 theyre still a killer deal same speed and accuracy of the bigger thermopens but simple and basic all you need if you prefer a wired probe get a dot they also make a bluetooth dot interesting there is a lot of good stuff here thanks yes this is not candid this is an example of what i traditionally shoot now but i want to move more into doing candidtype stuff ill search some online classes and youtube lessons on framing and composition i think that is a good call for sure do you have any resources you like ive never heard of the 52 frames challenge that sounds pretty cool ill look into that too haha yeah he opened for this weird quirky indie band that i love he was in a big rock band in the 70s so he played some acoustic versions of those songs and told stories about his life and career between each song it was really cool do you want to see a foot with four toes i really liked rphotoclass2021 they do it every year so it should be starting up for 2023 soon a fair bit is the basics of exposure and also how editing works but there were several good postslectures on composition thanks i appreciate that i am looking into new lenses i only have the lenses that came with the camera when i bought it i am still learning about lenses and still get confused by the difference between lenses and what all the numbers mean from what i gather i have two prime lenses that are very similar and two zoom lenses that are very similar i almost exclusively shoot with a minolta 45mm f2 or minolta 55mm f17 i rarely use the zoom lenses but i have a sigma 28 84mm 35 45 macro and a minolta 2870mm 35 48 macro any recommendations of affordable lenses i should be on the lookout for your last two points are well taken i get very nervous stepping out of my comfort zone as a photographer i even feel awkward bringing my camera places its why i havent moved into more portrait photography its something i want to work on ill also practice shooting manual and see what i can learn what i have never really understood is how to determine light without my meter and how to adjust with digital i can see the result in the screen and change settings as needed with film do i basically just guess what settings to use then develop the roll and make adjustments next time also i have a local spot scan my photos they are a cool boutique film shop not a drugstore or something i bought a scanner but i could never get results i liked i feel like it was a waste of money if you have any tips on how to improve that i would be interested in trying my scanner again thanks ill check em out maybe this is too broad but any times on getting over that awkward feeling of being intrusive when taking pictures in a public place i shoot mostly concerts because music is a passion of mine but also because i feel okay bringing a camera to a concert and shooting shots from the crowd i would love to do more portraits and candids but when i come across someone doing something interesting i dont want to ask them if i can take a picture of them and i also dont want to take a picture without their consent thanks thanks yeah the thermometer my local lab sells is the patterson color thermometer i assume given the brand and my lab selling it it should suffice for most things and thank you re bottles thats good to know i have an amber bottle that looks like it was a chemical bottle once but also not confident how well it seals out oxygen i could use an old bail top bottle also i read really differing things on whether one needs stop bath the wiki here says water is fine and whether one needs distilled water for final wash and whether one needs some kind of hypo to prevent drying marks i guess you prefer to use a commercial stop and distilled water eh also do you use a special chemical stirrer i was just going to use some long handled spoon or something from the second hand shop thanks for not assuming i was in the us im not what makes these a better thermometer are they more accurate or simply that its easier to read my family got me a ton of film for christmas but they put it on their checked bags when they traveled here is it even worth using if it was put onto a checked bag at the airport its all black and white 35mm film any advice on what camera to buy i have had a look at a couple of articles and things but would be interested to know other opinions too i am looking for a film camera which is compacteasy to carry around will fit in a small ish bag no more than 200 pounds if thats feasible easy to use has manual features so i can learn about aperture etc would be plus if it also has an automatic setting too if thats possible im very new to film photography so i dont have a particular niche eg landscapes im just planning to use this for everything really and bring it around with me hey im currently using a canon ae1 with a 50mm lens im looking to purchase a lens with a bit more zoom but dont know what to be looking for anybody got some recommendations i could check out cheers yeah the thermopop and the awesome red led safelights are maybe more northamerica mail order stuff so i try to not get folks too excited thermoworks has kinda owned the market for cooking thermometers with the big thermopen for pro chefs and serious home cooks but it has all kinds of presets and alarms vs heres the temperature dummy but theyre known for accuracy build quality and veryfast readings so with the thermopop you get all their tech in a very simple unit that does one thing exceptionally well also great service i broke the battery door on mine and had a new one for free in a couple days and in late november they had a 12 sale on the things i get them as stocking stuffers for the cooks i know and my kids all have them ive used some cheap amazon wiredprobe thermometers but they eventually go south for some alt processes a probe is really necessary like keeping a tray of chems at a constant temp or melting photo emulsion ive had a bluetooth dot for years now and its been solid the wife and i are pretty serious cooks and i grillsmoke a lot the thermopop in our kitchen is used daily and has been staunch for 5 years havent even changed the battery yet topflight stuff yeah the thermometer my local lab sells is the patterson color thermometer perfectly adequate but also not confident how well it seals out oxygen i could use an old bail top bottle not need to be a vacuum seal air will not circulate with most tops i used many times old soda bottles with a twist top and they were fine stored in a dark cupboard again mark them with a skull and bones to make sure people dont reuse them for other stuff also i read really differing things on whether one needs stop bath the wiki here says water is fine and whether one needs distilled water for final wash and whether one needs some kind of hypo to prevent drying marks i guess you prefer to use a commercial stop and distilled water eh thats mostly personal preferences i learnt using a stop bath and have been doing it for decades so not using it is a risk in my workflow i know some people dont use it and may be fine for them and you you dont need distilled water for final wash the other standard way is to use a surfactantwash aid and normal water i know ive had marks using that and never had marks when using my 15 alcoholdistilled water wash so thats what i use change the wash every 812 films and youll be fine again personal preference you can use hypo clearing agent to reduce washing times i live in ireland and water is free here so i typically dont use it what is not personal preference and will help immensely with having archival negatives is to use a double fixing bath fix your negs half of the time in the first fix the other half in the second fix this will make for better fixing also do you use a special chemical stirrer paterson also sells some stirrers which i have but any long spoon will work do not mix the solution by shaking the containerbottle as this will introduce oxygen in the water its best to mix it the day before using let it rest and give a final twirl with the spoon they day after do not reuse the spoon in the kitchen awesome take a look at a canonet ql17 oof im sorry that film is toasted you want to look for fd lenses this is the mount your camera uses depending on how much zoom you want consider an 85mm 105mm 135mm or even 200mm lens id recommend looking at pentax or olympuss line of cameras both have reasonably small and lightweight models as well as either being fully manual or coming with auto modes get one with a 50mm 35mm or 28mm lens these are fairly standard focal lengths for general shooting only one way to find out shoot a test roll and get it developed and when you do make sure you post the results back here plenty of people ask a similar worried question like this but never come back to say how it went i asked my film developer and he said it should be fine if its 100400 speed he also recommended shooting a tester and bringing it back to see if its all ruined since i have like 10 containers that all went through xray but he said from his experience its usually fine i will update in this reddit when i shoot a tester and get it developed i agree shoot a tester and develop it from what ive heard its usually fine with medium and slow speed film for carry on bags but much more secure if its checked luggage interested to see the results i have a vivitar 100200mm f4 i dont use it a ton but it hasnt let me down bonus you can get a teleconverter for it that does some cool stuff too the canon a series particularly the a1 it can do aperture and shutter speed automatically but you can also do either or both manually you can let the camera do as much or as little of the work as you like just make sure the internal light meter is accurate and youre good to go i have taken a camera with me to loads of places and only been bothered about it once with people in the shot you kinda get into the whole ethics of photojournalism thing theres no clear cut answer but do some reading on specifically how photojournalists do their work ethically and thatll get you rolling got an ae 1 for christmas and subsequently bought a basic kodak film scanner i am aware the quality of these are not the best or comparable to lab developed with that being said im not sure if it was worth the 200 price tag i like the idea of being able to preview my shots without the need to send the whole roll off get a whole stack of prints just to end up with a few keepers im at the point now where i have a drawer full of them do you think its worth it to be able to preview and decide what i do and dont want lab developed cut them myself and drop off the keepers im sure i can choose to get a digital file rather than all prints and go from there but do you think the price difference would be worth it over dropping off the only shots i want lab developed i plan on shooting a lot for reference i have ran through 4 rolls in the last two weeks another concern i have is damaging the film while scanning them myself exposing it to light and improper storage as i am a beginner and need to learn all the dos and dont when handling undeveloped film thanks in advance for any and all advice apologies if im off base here but this sounds as if you have fundamentally misunderstood how film works film is light sensitive it has to be in order to register an image it remains light sensitive until it has been chemically processed either by a lab or by a home process involving a lightsealed tank and various chemicals and any exposure to light before this happens will completely expose the film and destroy any images on it no images will be visible on the film until it has been processed in this way the scanner you have bought does not chemically develop the film it is designed to take already developed film and scan it to produce a digital file which it does by shining light through the film if you take the film directly from the camera and put it in the scanner you will completely ruin the film in short do not expose your film to any amount of light no matter how small until you have either taken it to a lab to be processed or done so yourself using a changing bag lightproof tank and chemicals i suggest the former once the film has been processed only then can you use your scanner whats a good ps for taking selfies at arms length but also captures other great photos what should i be looking for when i want a camera like this any people experience a green tint on photos taken with cinestill 400d ive been shooting velvia that old and older thats been frozen with great results id shoot one roll and see how it turns out but id expect it to be fine note that if its velvia 100f you may have some trouble getting it developed 100f was discontinued due to epa banning some component and ive seen a few posts that some labs refuse to develop it since i develop at home so no issue for me well duh that goes to show how much of a noob i am i should have figured considering the basic fundamentals of film is capturing light thats the missing step causing most of my confusion would you say it would be worth investing in an at home kit and is there a big difference in quality versus a lab im looking for enough quality to have the option to make prints bigger than your average 5x7 if i have to take them to a lab to be chemically processed i might as well have them develop the film to a digital file at the least i tried to look up the former you suggested with not many results i will add i am very interested in playing with learning and enjoying the process thank you for taking the time to respond and answer my questions you might want to read this recent discussion on the merits of home devscanning vs using a lab just to clarify some terminology here processingdeveloping refers to the chemical process that transforms the film into a negative or a positive if youre using slide film image at this stage it is still held on the film strip itself but the process renders it transparent and makes the latent image visible and stable if were being picky developing refers to just the first part of the process but the terms are often used interchangeably scanning refers to taking this nowtransparent film strip and making a digital image from it if were talking about colour film here the developingprocessing part is standardised as long as you follow the process correctly you should end up with the same results as a lab does scanning depends very much on the equipment used some get reasonable results at home using a digital camera to photograph the developed film cheap scanners like the one you purchased tend not to give very good result labs good ones at least use rather expensive and complicated scanners to produce highquality digital images personally i would suggest you have a lab process your film for now at least until you have a better idea what youre doing you could choose to then scan them yourself at home you can always have a lab rescan them later it might be simpler and not much more expensive to have the lab do this too though and the results should be a lot better its no longer very common to have an entire roll turned into prints edit to add youll find some useful info in the sidebar of this sub including a list of labs not sure where youre based but hopefully itll help you find somewhere colorperfect help needed often i find that colorperfect gets thrown by a particularly dark or particularly light area in a photo or a dominant colour somewhere in frame and just messes up really bad in its pursuit of balance the obvious solution would be to crop into a good area do colorperfect and then uncrop but colorperfect sees the pixels beyond the cropped area unless you click delete cropped pixels while cropping and that of course means they cant be destroyed later has anyone found a solution to have colorperfect ignore a region of the photo focal length the standard is usually 35mm lenses the smaller the number the wider the field of view maybe a 28mm might be better for arms length selfies also consider th minimum focus distance of the camera so your main concern here is focal length you will need something pretty wide as a reference if memory serves correct the main camera on most iphones is equivalent to around 26mm the front facing selfie camera is even wider something like 2324mm i think i think you will be hard pressed to find a point and shoot much wider than 28mm the other important thing is minimum focus distance if your arm is shorter than the minimum focus distance then your face will always be out of focus the best way to buy point and shoots is see whats cheap and locally available so check your local thrift stores or classifieds and see what fits the bill most people actually like having their photo taken and if they dont then theyre usually polite about it if youre going for candid shots what i normally do is focus on something at a similar distance then sneakily take the photopretend to be looking at something else cinema film is known to require a bit of extra attention in post should be correctable it could be that xray wavelengths are 1 too small to be focused by a pinhole 10 nanometers you may need a lens or smaller pinhole 2 penetrating the body of your camera making the pinhole moot you may need to line your camera with lead best guesses i just received a nikon coolscan ived from ebay the scans look terrible it seems like the darks are bleeding into the surrounding areas in my scans the scanner software tells me theres a hardware issue every time i start up nikon scan the ebay seller stopped responding so im probably boned do you guys think cleaning the mirror would be worthwhile i can take it a apart and give it a shot the alternative is the dumpster thanks in advance leica m42 usersleica users in general how likelypossible is it for your camera to have a light leak ive read that leicas dont even have foam in the bodies so is it just that lighttight of a box assuming it hasnt been banged up in any serious way cool thanks for the recommendation i asked my lab if they knew where i could dispose of chemistry locally starting to try my hand at bw they said down the toilet that seems wildly irresponsible and outdated no xray film is exposed by screen luminance basically a contact sheet xray exposure will take cery long time or high power will be required like in scanners thats why its titled blue or red sensitive screen emits photons of named wavelength probably the cardboard box leaks somewhere used photo chemicals are safe to pour down the drain you shouldnt drink them or get them in your eyes but the same can be said for dishwasher detergent theyre not especially hazardous nikon f5 just got one is there any way to unlock the max 8 fps without the mn30 battery pack i thought i read there was a way to trick it into think that pack was installed but not sure i have lithium aas in it really i have always read that some parts eg silver from film is not environmentally safe its controversial and riddled with misinformation and people will argue about it here all day municipal regulations are based on businesslevel quantities like the amount labs did before digital they also have blanket bans on heavy metals and chemicals because you cant write regs to cover every use and hobbyists vs factories if you have a septic tank research what can go in if you have municipal water with a treatment plant it can handle all the basic chems youd dispose of including used fixer if youre still paranoid about fixer you can leach the silver out with steel wool then throw away the black sludge where it will go to a landfill and leach into ground water without being treated you can pour all your chems in a bucket cover it with a screen to keep wildlifepets out and store it in a garage or shed and let it evaporate then when you decide to haul your chems to the toxicwaste place you can take a quart instead of gallons the virtuesignalers may start replying but if youre really serious about municipal water treatment stop overfertilizing your lawn spotclean vs sending things to the dry cleaner use green detergents and soaps theres tons of things you can do that actually make a difference especially if you can get your community to adopt them definitely dont pour it down your storm drain for that reason but your local water treatment plant will have no trouble dealing with it thankfully your plumbing does not return directly to the seagroundwater thank you yeah its definitely a conversation loaded with politics emotions and philosophy obviously i understand that in the low quantities im doing my effect is essentially nil as is my personal attempts to lower my use of single use plastic use less petrol etc and i do do all those latter things an interest in minimising agricultural pollution is how i found my day job terminology a zoom lens has a variable focal length like common 70mm 200mm cheapconsumer ones will get a smaller aperture the further out you zoom so less light at 200mm than 70mm more prolevel glass will have a constant aperture regardless of zoom range usually f28 or f4 for your era a telephoto lens is generally a longer focal length a fixedfocal length lens is called a prime lens like your 50mm so you have to decide on a longer prime lens a consumer zoom or a higherend zoom if one is made for your mount some consumer zooms are good performers some are junk for primes youre stuck with what was available but 85mm is a classic portrait length and there should be primes in the range of 60mm135mm for that era of canon mount aftermarket companies tamron vivitar etc often rebranded sears jcpenney wards etc made lenses for the ae series cameras some are junk some are decent but its hard to trust reviews for consumerhobbyistaftermarket glass everyone that owns one will say its sharp as a tack those buyers arent often the most critical users out there test test test hah your municipal sewage may be better than ours ours regularly overflows leaks etc and untreated sewage ends up in the ocean at least once a year because of the incompetence of our system obviously in this context my tiny input isnt really the problem theres too many to count really if you want an interchangeable lens camera nikon will give you the biggest choice of bodies and lenses same mount for like 60 years i use decadesold nikon glass on my film bodies brandnew z mirrorless cameras and dslrs canon has two eras that arent very crosscompatible but lots of options nikon and canons autofocus era is a huge leap in features but theyre less compact and they dont look cool and retro which makes them excellent deals you can usually get a proquality af body for far less than a consumerera metal leather body since they look more like dslrs in the metal leather era youve got pentax nikon canon olympus mamiya on and on people will state the one camera i own and know about is the best but research and look for the features you want theres really not massive differences other than battery types if needed for the meter exposure modes shutter speeds available and lenses available a body that uses an easily available battery is certainly a plus though if youre cool with a fixedlens camera there are many japanese rangefinders out there if youre cool with a rangefinder vs slr thanks for the great reply and really useful information much appreciated lens focal length is all personal preference so for me i usually use a 50mm and a 30mm because i prefer a wider angle prime lenses will usually be sharper than zooms minolta lenses should be pretty cheap for the slrs youll be surprised how many people actually want their photo taken and get excited to be asked once you break the barrier then it gets easier asking people but it definitely helps if you start taking portraits of people you know first okay so with film youll have a window of 23 stops where you can have a correct exposure and within those 3 stops the difference will be minimal so you dont have to be exact negative film responds well to more exposure so if you guess on the side of giving it more light then youll get good results film boxes used to come with a chart that demonstrated the sunny 16 rule basically if you set your shutter speed to 1film speed then using shadows during daytime you can judge exposure youre right its the silver in the fixer that is the problem the amounts from home processing are so minimal to make a difference in the grand scheme of things however you can reclaim the silver from fixer using steel wool and then you end up with silver and chemicals safe to dump i use a zorki 4 which is a soviet leica rip off no light seals and never had a light leak add magenta if its a uniform tint think its also called tint on mobile editing apps deleted according to an article on the nikonians web site the maximum film advance speed of 8 fps can only be achieved using a shutter speed of 1250 or shorter using the nimh battery unit mn30 ken rockwell has some very good things to say about the f5 and also offers his tips on how to get the most out of it anyone know where to buy an a11 flash for my xa2 other than ebay if the alternative is the dumpster absolutely give a go at cleaning it saw a post on here not too long ago from someone who purchased a coolscan had terrible results cleaned up the components inside and fixed it difference was in results night and day so worth a shot i was wondering too i live in the countryside without municipal water we pump it up from our land we also flush everything down in our garden there are three connected vessels one of which is emptied twice a year so basically we end up drinking it again my bottles of paranol have big warnings on them not sure i should flush it down the drain ebay offers buyer protection for when you get a dud or a product not as described even then you can often get something returned even if it matches the description perfectly so you may want to look into that route and you could possibly recover some of or all of the cost the back is well sealed if theres ever leak its usually due to shutter misalignment or capping when im using a light meter to figure out what exposure to use for my image where should i be pointing it should i point it at something in the foreground like a tree or something in the background like a mountain or the sky or should i just point it directly in the middle of my picture back in 2005 through 2008 i shot rolls of fuji velvia 100f at the time it was no big deal but after looking through my 35mm slides recently im convinced that the velvia film stock was pure gold richly saturated ridiculously low grain color that just popped it seemed like everything came out perfect nearly every time everything in daylight and even some night shots were incredible now its long gone or 50 for an expired roll so what is a solid substitute im not concerned with price i just want a stock thats still being produced also that is available for 35mm and 120 i shot a roll of kodak professional ektachrome e100 the other day and the results were very good is this the way what say ye fellow analog crew incident or reflective for incident orient it so the integrator dome is in the same light as your subject receives for reflective point it to your subject and be aware of extra bright or dark backgroundssubject affecting it as it returns the correct exposure for an average gray subject lets say i wanted to shoot colorplus 200 6 stops 3 iso how would i go about doing that on my nikon fe2 would i choose the lowest iso and then adjust according to what my lightmeter says hey everyone im trying to figure out how to use a kodak 3a adapted to 120 i had some difficulty with this in the past so i put it down for a while but i tried to come back to it and give it another shot this weekend the camera works great with photo paper loaded in the back no problem but adapting it for 120 is giving me a real headache i cant even get so far as having anything to develop in order to even evaluate how the pictures would come out on rollfilm since i cant even successfully get the film out of the camera i have a set of 3d printed spool adaptors that let me put 120 film spools in the camera as opposed to the 122 film it was originally designed for they seem fine and are doing what theyre supposed to as far as i can tell however when i open the back i find that the film is rolled up incorrectly on the spool and lumpy and since its not rolled up tightly with the backing paper as it should be the whole roll is ruined this is at least the 3rd roll ive destroyed in the process of trying to take pictures what am i doing wrong i have two questions actually how steep is the learning curve on loading and using a bulk loader if i only have a changing bag and i want to shoot faster film than my camera konica auto s2 is rated for do i push 400 to run higher speed film thru it i shoot bands at local barsvenues and lighting is often subpar to shoot color plus at 3 iso you would just meter and expose at 3 iso pulling it in development would be another story that seems like an extreme pull if i am being honest but hey an experiment is an experiment velvia 100 is now banned in the us so if youre looking to import rolls from overseas it might be extra expensive velvia 50 is still a thing here though if you can find it in stock ektachrome is very good but definitely renders colors differently its pretty basic and good to learn on very versatile using a bulk auto loader is reasonably easy follow the instructions some practical tips wait to load it at night in a dark room just in case your changing bag or you fails its also good to disassemble it and assemble it eyes closed familiarizing yourself with opening and closing it in the dark be sure there are no leds or light in the room leave your phone out or in your pocket after you turn out the light stay a while familiarizing yourself with the dark take deep breaths make sure its dark as in you shouldnt be able to notice your hand in front of your face nor should you notice any light disassemble the loader as directed by the instructions put pieces in order by you you should be able to reachfind them in total darkness again practice with eyes closed worse case you just put the roll of film back in the plastic bag and box then turn the light on and reset the procedure anything can be solved just take deep breaths and think nobodys rushing you i dont have much to offer with shooting gigs did some but it was always a bit hit or miss i remember rating delta 3200 at 12800 which was optimistic for some of the dark venues i went your s2 seems to be rated to 400 only id probably take a stage reading and set the camera manually to the correct f stopspeed which will probably be 130 or 160 and f18 and a prayer ive only had a roll lost once luckily it was on the way back from the lab so i already had scans id be devastated if it was anything more important than it was but its a necessary gamble thanks for the reply yes velvia is long tone which im aware and am not trying to hold on to a lost cause its good to have one vote of confidence out there that ektachrome is a solid substitute as that is what i felt like the best choice id found so far anyone else have thoughts deleted i scored one in ebay today do you like it thanks for taking the time to write a detailed explanation im over thinking it i guess i have this fear of ruining lots of film all at once as opposed to roll by roll the good cheap reliable indestructible simple to calibrate the rangefinder mechanism good lens but the production was inconsistent nice size and weight the bad no framelines so framing can be hit or miss have to account for parallax the shutter speed dial is finicky to use and printed shutter speeds wear off over time after disengaging the shutter to rewind film i have to go through some strange process to reengage the shutter properly not sure if its just my camera overall does the job and a great camera for its price are there better cameras out there yes but this is the best of its role as a cheap rangefinder dont forget to cock the shutter and advance the next frame before changing shutter speed or you risk breaking the shutter worse it can happen is you drop the roll and it rolls in the floor unspooling the film in the dark the start of the roll can be taped to itself hold it firmly while untaping it if so and putting it inside the loader not with a death grip but consciously other than that nothing bad should happen noted thank you it would 6 stops but yes set your light meter to the speed you want to shoot at and shoot interesting i will update you on my experience with it it should be delivered this week and thank you for the last tip regarding the shuttertimes didnt read that before no worries and good luck with it which lens did you get on it btw theres the jupiter and the industar i think got both but will be using the industar this weekend i read that the jupiter is hit or miss and highly batch dependent the guy on the right looks like a supervillain love it the gold bracelets and gold watch on both his wrists the other guy was taking a pic of the gold chains

i am traveling to spain and want to capture my trip i dont have any experience using this camera but have used a dslr in manual mode so i have a basic understanding of iso fstop and shutter speeds wondering what film i should get for the trip and if theres anything i should keep in mind i will also be photographing with my phone so if these shots dont turn out it wont be the end of the world thanks in advance

iso 800 portra anything expired when is your trip to spain i would run a few test rolls and get familiar with the camera before your trip i would recommend fuji or kodak 400 fairly inexpensive keep in mind that film needs to be hand checked at tsa exposed or not some people say that the xray will not affect it but in my experience it does even 200 film this is so beautiful unfortunately i leave in a week so i wont get a chance to do a test roll how much of an effect will it have would i be better off trying to by film there although that would still get affected on the way home thanks used to be my grandpas and he died shortly before i was born so i never got to meet him it has a ton of lenses lens filters and everything i would need to be able to see into his life a little bit it is not just a tool it is a memoir you are lucky if you do fly with film have tsa hand check it keep it somewhere handy so you dont forget personally i would try to find a lab nearby where you are staying and get it developedscanned if not fly with it back and make sure it doesnt get xray on rolls that been accidentally xray my color rolls had some photos show up with a fog and others the blacks get washed out on bw ive had fog and the black get washed out and shadows blend you have knowledge how iso works in film yes do you like colour or bw ultramax 400 or gold 200 from kodak inexpensive and incredible results gold is my favorite film stock and ultramax blew my mind as to how good it actually looked i would not test with expired film if these are your first rolls get some fresh film so if there is a problem you know its not the films fault during winter i shoot bw film mostly because theres no colors to capture try fomapan 200 it has lovely grain gold 200 if the sun is out you cant go wrong i have the same camera with the f2 50mm lens and i used kodak pro image with it really depends on your preferences the lens is rly nice you can choose films with low iso if u like it crisp and high contrast try kodak ektar 100 as beginner i always shot with kodak gold since it is affordable and the results are solid i have some knowledge for iso on film ill be leaving it set the same as the film although i know you can technically change it around a bit i like both but would prefer to shoot color this first time deleted if the film goes in my checked bag do they still need to look at the film well if you plan on shooting in low light and outside with the same roll i would choose kodak portra 800 even though it is expensive perhaps pick kodak gold and use your phone indoors if it goes in your checked bag it will be xrayed and can be destroyed this is why you want to take it in your hand baggage was your film affected by xray machines or ct scanners the newer more powerful ones ive had no issues in the us with tsa but there are many reports and even me asking airports like cdg that some airports in other countries will not hand inspect film if its under 800 2 rolls of gold 200 2 rolls of portra 400 3 rolls of hp5 1 roll of velvia 50 i used this camera exclusively for 7 years in the 90s it is a much underrated camera i had only two lenses a tamron sp 90mm f28 macro and tamron 24mm f25 i got great results a good general purpose film would be kodak gold 200 my favorite was fuji reala 100 but sadly no longer available my understanding is that the internal part of this camera is the same as the olympus om 2000 nikon fm10 vivitar v2000 etc and i believe cosina was the actual maker of them for bw tmax 100 or 400 ilford delta 100 is also nice all of these of you like nicely contrasted images i took 2 rolls of kodak portra 400 film with me in my carry on bag when i went to spain and the film were not affected at all by the xray when i got back i got them developed and they came out really well it happened in the philippines and i forgot to take out the film from my carryon 400 and it had visible damage im not sure about hand checking under 800 but this happened in 2018 bummer im hoping i get lucky with agents at cdg flr auh etc or it doesnt ruin the film deleted is that a toyota corona mkii oh queenstown i have nearly an identical picture hanging on my wall taken over a decade ago its such a beautiful place i really miss living there i visited from canada in 2011 and have been dreaming of going back ever since so jealous you got to live there wow we drove all over the south island and queenstown was definitely top 3 places we went