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when i graduated from college i was gifted a large format field cam with some developing equipment the unicolor rollers tank didnt have the small rubber piece that is used to separate the top and bottom layers of film in the past ive always just developed two sheets at a time out of desperation but id really like to find a replacement does anyone have even the slightest idea where to find a replacement or if you have one yourself would you be willing to send a photo andor measurements so i can attempt to 3d print something thanks in advance | i havent tested it wet yet but oddly this completely different clip seems to fit fine |
i recently bought a new graflex that has less kibble on it than my last one thus making it lighter to handle which is huge for me who has hand and wrist issues so now i want to sell my olb graflex body but im having trouble pricing it since all the listings i see on ebay are for cameras with the lenses includes im keeping the lens this camera came with so does anyone have an idea of how to appropriately price the body itself | search graflex camera body only filter your results to sold just did it and results vary anywhere from 25 usd and up i would start there and match your set up to them most closely pro tip turn off the geolocation feature on your crown graphic when posting to the internet beautiful print darker imho thank you |
i have kept these in an airtight pelican case for the past two years they range from very good to excellent condition some may still have sheet film in them i just dont want to go through the ebay thing and i would rather they go to someone who really needs them i will include a hama air release this is my way of supporting the community the first person to respond will get them so dm me your name address and phone and they will go out via usps priority mail i will mark this post as taken once i have a recipient i love photography i just have to get rid of things i dont use anymore wishing you all the best and happy shooting x200b | ahhhh i need some i sent you a message sent a dm youre the first please send me your name address and phone number for the mailing label and i will send these out to you congratulations and happy shooting taken thank you all for your interest thank you so much for your note the holders have been taken i wish you well thank you so much for your note the holders have all been taken wishing you all the best |
is there a free fov simulator online or as an app where i can put in film size 6456x76x8 etc and different lens focal lengths to compare what the framing or fov would be like relative to each other | i use an app called viewfinder cant recall if its free but its fantastic gives you different fovs does a decent job of exposure metering and allows you to leave notes if you take a test shot |
ive been a digital photographer for many years but i wanted to step into analog to rediscover my interest in photography so many fun challenges getting this all together i have nerve damage in my right hand so loading film holders in a film bag was ridiculous i had one frame where the camera fired on its own when i was halfway through pulling the dark slide out ended up making an interesting double exposure i scanned these by shooting them with a digital camera on a piece of glass with a flash behind it let me know your thoughts or if you have any tips cheers | great initial exposures even with the film loading issue super impressive you might want to consider a fill card in natural light like this cant wait to see your next shots thank you i was a bit surprised by how dark eyes got even in open shade a small bounce card or reflector will work wonders for that nice i have been shooting 4x5 now and then for the last 10 years but i never tried people i just never trust myself to be quick enough to focus on a ground glass close set the aperture cock the lens put the film in pull the dark slide and fire the lens while the model has to hold perfectly still all the time i am always quite impressed when people manage to do this the camera is a graflex most of the standing photos were slightly out but when i had her sit in the chair i was able to get it right on and not worry about her moving through the focal plane i also accented the light with a strobe to freeze the subject a bit just stumbled across these images really really nice job for a first time trying it all just wondering if you are still using your 45 camera months later and whether or not you still find it enjoyable thanks in advance for any answers you choose to provide this is really cool stuff congratulations on finding your way back to analog photography |
i am starting to get into 4x5 and am thinking about getting a intrepid any comments | i do my first large format i like it hows the build quality i mean for how cheap it is i dont complain it is plywood everything locks into place and doesnt shift when i go to take a photo bellows are good extend out to do some macro work if need be focus is sharp when i dont mess up for my first attempts at large format and it being a hobby for me a more expensive camera would be a waste this is for an intrepid 8x10 but id check out matt marash on youtube the fact is there isnt a whole lot of new large format cameras being made anymore even less lenses also check out for what to look out for with used gear in large format they improved over time i have an mk2 and it is not so well made rough later versions are way better and have back tilt agreed ive borrowed a mk3 and it was okay depends on intended use i guess if i got it on a cheap deal i wouldnt mind owning one i recently wicked up a used wista 45sp for a great price so id suggest something similar to op if they dont mind the extra weight |
graflex crown graphic sk symmar s 150mm f56 shanghai film diffused flash | pretty another gorgeous photograph youve got it dude you could sell some of your work i am betting check out the large format subreddit and post your stuff there also great work thanks redditfan26 i already subscribe to that group but somehow my submissions get stuck on waiting moderation approval and never show up boy that is a bummer i dont know why that would be maybe try posting to the analog subreddit too also maybe you could start a separate thread asking why that is something ive never tried doing i dont think is sending a message directly to a moderator it may be that your stuff gets eliminated by a spam filter or something and possibly the moderators at large format dont even know this is happening your work is so good i would think theyd be welcoming you with open arms they can use all of the high quality posters they can get i would think maybe you could send them a dm focus at infinity is overrated if you ask me when have you ever taken a photo when the subject was infinity meters away 8 i agree but infinity is the shortest extension you need even more extension to focus closer correct you got a beast of a lens its a tessar type design but it behaves well because it has a good coating its lovely for portraits and it has a very wide covarage so you can use tilt to the extremes i will try it soon |
fuji velvia 100 anyone have any idea why its splotchy maybe light leak | thats a really lovely shot thank you nice image i say i need more splotchy |
x200b | i dont know how i missed this going by 5 months ago this is a really outstanding piece of work in my humble opinion if you never posted this over on the large format subreddit i think you should definitely do that not sure but i think that subreddit has a lot more subscribers to it and this photograph might get more of the attention it deserves i absolutely love the sharpness and details in this image i am wondering if you remember what the lighting setup was for this image thanks in advance for any comments you choose to make and for taking the time and trouble to post this image to reddit |
i would love some input on which field camera to buy in terms of 4x5 i am a seminoob i very briefly owned a tachihara in the past and loved the cherrywood and brass knobs it was a joy to look at easy to pack and set up i should never have sold it ive also noticed though that the wista 45 looks almost identical here is the list of options i am considering if you have a right in nomination vote to add please do view poll | if i have learned anything from 4x5 its that cameras are suited to personalities so the the one that speaks to you i mean sure id love an ebony but im cheap and a crown graphic does everything i want it to 99 of the time bought the chamonix h1 and its a thing of beauty there are microdifferences in all the cameras which you have listed as field cameras the wista 45 last produced models were either the dx or the sw with removable bellows and wide angle bellows option if you are satisfied with the field camera wooden traditional limitations of movements and portability any of these will work as decent field cameras the chamonix 45 has more of a triple extension potential than the wista or shen haos double extension zone vi is very american market orientated and pricey although similar build quality to the rest of these competent field cameras your tachihara was an older design so theres very little difference between all the models which you have listed other than the microdifferences of focal length potential spirit levels movement capability and brand name its hard to recommend one over the other the chamonix is possibly the only one in production if you wish to have the benefit of ongoing support from the maker however not much goes wrong with these designs and the older models are more affordable and just as stable i have a wista 45 and love it as a field camera the only other setup ive used is the toyo 45 which is also great and a bit lighter i personally like the look and feel of the wista better it feels a bit more substantial unfortunately i havent used any others on your list what is the difference between the tachihara and the wistia they look the same so what is the general opinion of the zone vi no votes but looks good i dont know anything about te camera or who made it thanks everyone i just got a chamonix 45 n2 based on this input see voting does matter |
i recently read somewhere that 4 x 5 wooden field cameras and tachihara in particular dont handle wideangle lenses very well is this the case i know on some extreme wideangle lenses you need to have a recessed lens board but since a 90 isnt a super wide lens i cant understand why a field camera like this one couldnt handle it any insights or thoughts are deeply appreciated thank you in advance | i had one and a recessed lens board a must but got bad results i have always assumed it was operator error but i dont know the tachihara is the same design as the wista swdx series zone vi 5x4cameras the main issue you need to check is whether yours has replaceable wideangle bellows instead of the standard concertina bellows 90mm is easily covered by all of these 5x4 inch field cameras the recessed board helps preferably with a lever external to the recess for adjustment of the aperture values 65mm is possible with front bed drop and the recessed board with experience you can get that down to 58mm focal lengths like the schneider sa 58mm xl offering at 47mm focal lengths its a nonevent if you are using the schneider super angulon 90mm f56 xl you will need the specialist wideangle bellows for the large rear element a detaching bellows is the easiest way to get the lens in if you bellows does not detach you then have to dissemble the rear ground glass and feed the unscrewed rear element into the front panel its possible but not easy and most likely the bellows will crimp unsightly with this kind of hack a schneider super angulon 90mm f68 or f80 nikkorfujinonrodenstock smaller aperture less angle of coverage lens will do much better |
i know i can buy 4 x 5 cameras new and used online and play the ebay lottery as well but i wondered if there are any usabased brickandmortar photo storesdealers that specialize in large format cameras i understand that bh photo video adorama and others carry 4x5 cameras but i wondered if other sources specialize in 4 x 5 and large format cameras and ideally represent several camera lines i am thinking of buying a chaminox 45 f2 but want support in the us if that is possible im not quite sure how i would deal with the vendor in china i am also interested in hearing about any dealers that sellsupport as wide a range of 4 x 5 cameras as possible any input would be deeply appreciated thank you in advance | hi as far as i recall hugo zhang usa was acting as a distributor and usainternational liaison for chamonix china 45 series 4x5 and larger wooden cameras the board still offers a host of used lf 4x5 and ulf format cameras you will find better deals from reliable forum users who have been posting longer than our lifetimes the lf community is very traditional and have not quite migrated to reddit although may are now on older social media like facebook and instagram is a smaller uk based lf site and the also has a sizeable lf forum group and sales of used cameras i use 5x4 format too but mostly prefer the monorail or the ultra specialised architectural niche cameras you might find it cheaper to import from overseas than the us market too btw it seems you are clear on a chamonix camera for over 10 years i owned one of their first iteration whole plate format 8 12 x 6 12 inch and there were zero warranty issues it was as reliable as the day it came out of the factory they are very solid cameras and hold up really well against the best of the current crop of the market they are not the last word in lf photography however neither are they as hipster and disposable as the intrepid cameras which lack the same rigour in building im not sure what kind of support you think you would need for a stable wood field camera even the 150 year old victorian english rosewood ones need zero aftersales service today the wood is dimensionally stable and air dried before use the gearings are completely mechanical the only things which go wrong are bellows not covered by wear and tear and spirit levels drying out these can be replaced bona fide good luck thanks i will check these out as to support you are right what can go wrong not sure how much less a used one will go for but easy enough to buy new bellows now i need to go down the lens rabbit hole hi generallly 13rd 12th off the current list price depending on usage and condition you can get excellent field cameras for us1000 and less wista dxsws zone vis tachiharas are all wooden field cameras perhaps avoid anba and the cheaper flimsy style lightweight less than 500gram style of 5x4 which never stay sturdy in the wind if you plan on doing wideangle landscape work the walker titan series of abs resin cameras are completely waterproof frames lens and bellows not which are faster to set up i have one for sale which i never let go off despite not using for years they are gorgeous and very practical for ultrawide normal focal lengths way more stable than the chamonix 45sf which has a more fragile triple extension drawer board front wow i thought the chaminoux was the gold standard for field cameras the rear focus knob seems worth the price alone i had a tachihara i should never have sold and now have an el cheapo cambo but that is a rail studio camera and i have never understood the differences between the tachihara and the wista they look identical i love the wooden cameras the chamonix is fine it follows the same principle as phillips 5x4 inch cameras when the team in china started building it in small batches their design philosophy was clear and informed by large format photographers the materials used are not as high quality as hiromis company ebony of japan using macassar honduran ebony wood titanium fixtures and a bright screen rack and pinion are smooth as butter and also dual locked irritating for some people however for precision its unrivalled i use the svte 5x4 in the studio and its movements outclass the chamonix first generation 5x4 chamonix were paralysed by the front rise and tilt and swing located on the same knob control making it impossible to fine tune and lock one set of horizontal movements from the other the tachihara is an earlier generation than the later wista swdx i use the sw too it is beautfully lightweight whereas the ebony svte is not and rivals the chamonix 45sf if you are a telephoto portrait lens shooter the chamonix 45sf definitely has the edge over the tachihara and wista sorry to hear you let go of the tachihara im not sure the chamonix 45sf is a significant advance above what you passed on fractionally better in some areas perhaps but not huge its easy to live with either neither compare to the rock hard precision and stability of the ebony svte though nor the architectural military billeted aluminium single chassis silvestri 5x4 inch field cameras im very fond of monorail studio cameras too ebony svte whoa ebony is out of my price range back to tachiwista but i want the gold finish dont judge me do you know the differences between the tashi you said earlier generation vs wista it almost looks like wista bought out tachi and then made some changes of some sort since they all went out of production the cost for an ebony is really bizarre mostly for collectors perhaps the tachwista gold is fools gold mine has rusted away its just lacquer over raw brass sea salt rain denatures the lacquer and attacks the brass as i discovered no longer shiny gold the tachihara had an extending rear standard lfess stable than the wista and nonremovable bellows as far as i can recall the wista sw was specifically designed for super wide lenses so no need for drop front bed and a recessed panel sufficed more limited as a double extension bed than the tachiharas 25x extension or something of that factor going up to 300mm focal lengths the wista was more stable offering around 240mm of extension for focal lengths in the short portrait region anything else required top hat lens panels and then the centre of gravity tilt challenges operate wista sw focal length ranges from super wide 58mm schneider super angulon 5856 xl using the custom wide angle bellows tachiharas could only manage a 75mm before employing reverse top hat lens panelsrecessed panels with all the fidgeting of tiny aperture and shutter levers the weight of both are comparable around 15 kg although the wista is more rock sure due to its limited double extension the wood finishing of the wista is superior a lot of internet legend equated tachihara with wista although the staff complement were different japan has a lot of highly skilled artisanal wood craftsmanship based niche makers i think both are fine to use go for the wista if you tend to favour wideangle perspectives and the tachihara again if you miss it or plan on doing longer focal length work i prefer a monorail for longer focal lengths field cameras and lightness and short focal lengths feel more apt for me the wista it is then my cambo studio is too much to schlepp over fields and sea rocks in maine that said i am impressed by the chamonix knob system on the 45 f2hn2 i converted my wista back to a 4x4 inch big square format fan after finding the format on film always had marks eating into the image area its like a large hasselblad havent used it for some time now the silvestri is probably my favourite wide angle 5x4 inch camera silvestri hermes faster set up and helicoid focussing for large format quick snaps on 47mm xl the wista is comfortable with 65mm what do you mean by triple extension drawer board thats certainly what id describe the 45h as having but the 45n and 45f have a onepiece focusing plate what lenses do you have there scneiderkreuznach xenar 56 150 aposymmar 56120 caltar iin 156 f210mm wista 45sp 11 film holders scneiderkreuznach xenar 56 150 aposymmar 56120 caltar iin 156 f210mm wista 45sp 11 film holders what body is that which model wista is it |
using a c1 head and relatively largeheavy mf and in future lf cameras want a way to quickly but securely place on abd remove my tripod head on the tripod when moving between sites | ok so i have never heard of the manfrotto move or the arca swiss quick links before so thanks for mentioning them my question is why does the need exist to quickly swap out the entire tripod head instead of leaving the head in place and using quickly attached mounting plates if that is the correct term is it because the different sizes of cameras require entirely differently sized tripod heads ah i think it is coming to me now it makes the tripod and head combination a more modular and professional setup just like being able to easily pop a finder off a 35mm professional camera makes it easier to change out a focusing screen this implies that you own multiple tripod heads each with their own strengths and weaknesses for use for a particular purpose i would love it if you would detail the different heads you own and in what situations you would use them ill understand if you do not wish to do that and that it might be asking for too much no hard feelings if that is the case thanks again for mentioning the existence of these quick change tripod head systems it is a neat and i think probably really useful idea depending on how well the implementation of the idea works out creating a 2nd comment just to avoid the formatting issues i mentioned above here is a link to the arca swiss quick link system from the arca swiss website i may come back and add another link to a search results page that displays a bunch of video reviews after i post the 1st link another link in another comment to avoid wrecking the formatting in my previous comments this is the top result on the bing search results page i posted above for the arca swiss quick links and it contains some great photographs of the system as well as this guys testing of the stability of the system using an 1114 large format camera and a laser pointer spoiler he found the arca swiss system to be as stable as his tripod and head without the arca swiss quick link set this review is a really good quick read in my humble opinion well worth the time here is the link you sir are a hero aw shucks |
x200b | from what i found online the ektar 127mm 47 is a 4x5 lens the ground glass also appears to be 4x5 but i dont know how to confirm this my guess would be that it is a 4x5 camera its a 4x5 inch speedgraphic variant body not 2x3 baby century speedgraphic the material of the smaller 2x3 is like a bakelite resin body the larger speedgraphic bodies are more metal heavy the mounted 12747 ektar is an okay lens my smaller baby century uses a 10537 ektar different design although very interesting rendition yours has an international graflok revolving back too so its more suitable for a vast range of 5x4 backs rollfilm backs and modification too wow thank you so much for the great info 4x5 you can tell by the lens i have the same on my crown graphic try linhof studios in london im in the us and will be sending my super tech v and maybe my best up super tech iii to them in the fall linhof studios are not in london used to offer linhof cameras second hand but not servicing i cant think of any linhof specialist which hasnt closed down in london robert white linhof studios in essex are still offering servicing i used to use them as the only silvestri specialist left in the uk you might be able to check their linhof side thank you |
i have an epson 700 which can go up to 6400 dpi but when i order the max scan from my lab they set it at 300bpi suggestions | 3200 thats big enough for me iirc i do 1600 nice photograph a lot of fun interactions happening between the people in the photo mixed with a really interesting location would you mind telling us where this is thanks in advance hi sorry for the delayed response this is in bom jardim da serra sc brazil thank you so much and no worries that is the power of the notification system here on reddit people get to respond in their own time when life allows and the notice gets sent at that point in time no pressure just knowledge being shared thanks again and again nice photograph |
i have a chamonix 4x5 and was shooting with my chroma 617 adapter which is turning out to really be awesome i decided to use my 125mm fujinon w f56 today with just plain old 4x5 filmunder the dark cloth everything was in focus i shot things at f45 and my film is totally out of focus i would have had to hit a standard and knock it out of focus before exposure to do thisor hit the focus wheel anything else that would make sense | per your other post is your ground glass in the wrong way round so youre out of focus by the thickness of the glass you got it lol the ground glass was backward |
how is it possible to have an image perfect on the ground glasslock down everything set the aperture to f45 and then have totally out of focus negatives thoughts | could it be camera shake rather than out of focus can you share the image i havent scanned em yet but will today its not shake as this was all tripod work cant really hand hold a chamonix maybe the ground glass is the wrong way round is it out of focus or camera movement there is also ground glass planefilm plane integrity film plane variance should be made up for with depth of field was everything centered update ground glass was on backward |
ive found several articles saying that theres a focus shift from a filter if its mounted behind the lens but nothing about mounted in front of the lens i recently purchased a set of cokin filters to use with my 4x5 and ive only used them a couple of times but at least once the focus was off after i focused before adding the filter did the filter cause the shift or did i inadvertently change the focus certainly possible given my tachiharas somewhat finicky focus locks do i need to focus with the filter in place or just be more careful with the focus lock | a filter behind the lens changes the focus think of the light being slowed by the material causing a change of pathlength in front of the lens this makes only little difference because the pathlengh is only changed comparably little depends auxiliary lenses to change effective focal length or special effects filters can and will change focus points but conventional filters are made of flat optical glass should not apart from loose focusing railsstandards the most common reason why focus shifts on a view camera is from stopping down you have to focus with the lens wide open then stop down then check focus again similarly if youve focused and then do a swing tilt or shift you have to check focus again this is really true with swings and tilts you have to sort of sneak up on the focus point when doing this which is why vc technique takes longer to master and it takes so long to make a picture stick with it its worth it theres not a digital camera made that mere mortals can afford that comes even remotely close to the resolution and tonal rendering of a 4x5 neg even the best pro digital bodies today are only around 50mpix which approximates but still does not equal imho a 120 rollfilm negative we think of large format as being all about the sharpness and resolution of the final image and indeed it is but where 4x5 and larger really show their stuff is in tonal rendering they have a richness of tone that even the best 2 14 stuff cant quite match i speak as someone that has shot and owned a ton of very fine film camera brands over the years a 4x5 neg taken with a decent average lens and processed properly has noticeably better tonality and sharpness than my very expensive hasselblad theres no substitute for square inches that was also my impression i must have accidentally shifted the filmtolens distance apart from loose focusing railsstandards the most common reason why focus shifts on a view camera is from stopping down you have to focus with the lens wide open then stop down then check focus again i havent noticed this but ill certainly pay more attention to it in the future similarly if youve focused and then do a swing tilt or shift you have to check focus again this is really true with swings and tilts absolutely especially on the tachihara where the tilt pivots at the rails rather than at the center of the lens stick with it its worth it i plan to as a sort of general rule with vcs check focus every time you touch the camera |
im looking to start shooting 4x5 again and want to shoot some backcountry stuff my old wooden field camera would be too heavy and fragile its getting on in years to take backpacking what would you guys recommend as light and sturdy enough to backpack with | i have a jung woo 45vx which is a clone similar to a wista of a linhof technika its all metal folds up very compact assuming your lens isnt too big and isnt that heavy ive used it when out hiking before and am very happy with it great feedback thanks what is the estimated weight to your setup tripod etc good question i have never actually weighed them to find out i would say the tripod is about 3kg and the camera about 25kg sorry im a bit late but for what its worth i have a chamonix 45n2 that ive used for about 2 years now and i very much enjoy it when my brother first saw it he described it as steam punk being half metal half wood so its pretty light and still robust about the only movement its missing is rear risefall but thats easy to work around from the website its 3lbs not sure how much my full kit is but i took it to the bottom of the grand canyon and back and only started curing the weight of the geared head on tripod for the last hour or two of the hike out thanks for the feedback pretty sure this is what ill be saving up for my woodandbrass 4x5 weighs in at 8 |
is anyone still shooting film on their 4x5 or have you gone to a digital back im dusting off my gear getting ready to shoot film again and then it hit me i dont know of anyone that prints optically anymore so are you taking your film to a lab or have you built your own darkroom assuming youre going to a lab how do you feel about the print quality with a digital scan and print back when i bought my first dslr i had realized that the scan quality from negs were lacking has the quality gotten better of the scans and prints gotten better thank you for your patience as i rattle off questions | yes i got a new camera i scan negs and when i visit my parents place i can print all bw though you can get very high res negative scans at your local print shop they use a drum scanner they scans will allow you to digitally print your large format negs at very large sizes otherwise optically printing is the way to go a bit pricier in the end though if youre paying for darkroom time chemicals etc good luck i have a darkroom i print from just picked up another enlarger for no other reason than to save it from the trash and possible parts if my first breaks this is a very late reply but i process and print my bw 4x5 process at home with a mod54 and print in a wonderful shared darkroom where we have 4 enlargers that can do 4x5 or larger printing is most of the enjoyment for me i glued the pvc strips and the tube into my spare jobo 2000ml tank the sheets are held to the wall flexed with tension one can use as little as 150ml of developer through slow rolling agitation fits two sheets in landscape orientation test sheets only |
i will be shipping 8x10 chromes to be processed out of state but i need something to ship them in that is protective and light proof does anyone have an empty box from their 8x10 film does anyone have another suggestion for a way to ship this | i would probably get a pack of lightproof plastic bags and put in a boxthick envelope if you have some old papers for ra4 or bw then you can probably use the plastic bag that holds the paper ooooh this is smart i might have one of those bags around here somewhere just a bump and a new craigslist link 4x5 for sale great capture how did you process print thanks its lab processed im only doing bw at home |
link to craigslist ad with pics everything is in great condition comes in a hard case and is easy to ship let me know if you have any questions thanks | nice rig reason you are getting rid of it havent shot with it in a few years used it in college and just out of but not much time to shoot anymore plus could really use the cash right now new baby lol |
anybody out there have infoadvice on this thanks | ive used the phaseone back and one of the early model hasselblad backs both on a calumet basically the same model as an orbit the back mounts on a sliding holder that replaces your old ground glass the only problem i had with them is that the digital sensor is not as large as a sheet of film so in order to get the full frame size you have to make 3 exposures moving the back 3 times and then stitch them together the software that came with them did a fine job stitching automatically but you had to make sure the set was perfectly still for the entirely of each exposure you can just make only one exposure and just use the size of the digital sensor but for that price you might as well get a highend canon and lseries tiltshift lens what you do not want to do is buy one of those dslr to 4x5 digitalback solutions the focal plane is all off its incredibly difficult to get a sharp image from these i do a lot of editing digitally and imo the best thing to do if you want the best image from a 4x5 is shoot film and get a high quality scanner thanks for the help whats the name of the software in case i get a used back captureone is the proprietary phaseone software it works well with their backs but you could probably use photoshop or even lightroommaybe keep us apprised with what you decide to do |
hi r4x5 i just recently got a new large format devere devon camera used that came with everything that i need except a rail mount any ideas on where i could search online for one thanks | ebay has a little bit of everything if that fails make friends with somebody who is handy with tools recently started shooting large format and am looking for feedback this was shot on ilford hp5 400 |
wondering if this would be a good buy or not | if thats the camera you want it seems like a good deal whats a good deal for someone else is always hard to evaluate are you new to 4x5 as an aside i would say that a 210 lens is closer to 70 mm on a 35 format it looks like a good camera to get into large format with if you are wanting something with some movements to it there is another black one on ebay for sale at 150 right now without all the accessories so the price does not seem to be too far off i must admit that i have never heard of that lens brand before but it is mounted in a good shutter so you could pick up barrel lenses that would use that shutter on the cheap and swap between them easily if i had the cash and it was local i would offer 300 and see if it took |
i used a toyoview 4x5 45aii metal field camera in school and loved it no longer in school and in the market to buy an easy to setup and maneuver 4x5 the toyoview is great however i cant afford it budget 1000 ultimately dont really need anything that does too many tricks all i really care about is a super clean image with no fall off on the edges and being able to fire a flash advice links | a calumet monorail camera would give you movements with the rotating back and wont break the bank full coverage and firing a flash will depend on your choice of lens keh has a used 45aii for 822 shouldnt be tough to get a normalishlength lensshutter for under 200 i know i got my 180mm fujinon for well under that your concerns about flash and falloff really only pertain to the lensshutter combination the camera itself doesnt really factor into those aspects if thats pushing things a used chamonix or shen hao field camera should be well under 1000 if you really want to 4x5 on the cheap a used cambo monorail is around 200 and pretty well bombproof its just not very portable calumet cadet heres one on ebay i got a used 45cf for 250 from adoramaflawless look around for a few weeks youll find it hi just found this sub and just wanted to cause some discussion this was shot on an mpp with a schneider 150mm f56 film was portra 400 f80 at 5 seconds with a circular polariser lab processed by peak imaging scanned at home with an epson v800 please offer critique and ask me anything about my process would love to see more posts in this sub thanks mike i think you hit that image about perfectly the road leads the eyes and it is well framed by the stone walls the only thing i would have done is wait for golden hour to get some more color to the light coming through the trees if you wanted a more surreal image use the movements of the camera with a wider aperture to just focus on the road i would crop the tree on the far right so that the image ends on a light space rather than a dark one the black shape on the left is the photographer me in silhouette and the skewed shape in the center is the view camera the scratches are pastel on the surface of the cprint which is the subject of the photograph the image is lit by flashing a strobe into the studio room hence the figures appearing in silhouette and the cprint tacked to a wall acting as a mirror you may also note the small circles on the bottom left of the image those are holes made in the development process of the 4x5 negative which was fuji pro 160s |
i have found a good deal on them but have no experience with the quickload format nor the filmtype anyone one here who does | ive only shot a couple sheets but its nice and easy expensive if you screw it up though you can shoot it and the kodak readyload with a polaroid holder dont think you can use the fuji holder with the kodak film and vice versa its been a couple years and ive been drinking so definitely doublecheck my statements alrite mate let me try and catch you sober 1 is it correct to understand that this is completely normal although professional positive film in this quickload package 2 you mention screwing up its not a complicated procedure non i saw an instruction on youtube and seemed pretty straight forward 3 how did you like the look of the film thanks for your reply 1 yep same film you would get in a 35 or 120 roll but in sheet form im out of town for the next week so cant double check the packaging im certain were talking about the same film though there are very few positive 4x5 films left in the world 2 if using a polaroid holder the process is only slightly more complicated than using polaroid sheets in the holder there are tutorials online you can reference i followed instructions on some website although im sure there are videos now really all youre trying to do is pull the dark paper most of the way out of the holder but not all the way while leaving the film seated in the bottom of the holder 3 ive always loved the fuji positive films great saturation and color rendition imo the thing to remember is that transparency film really has no latitude for under or over exposure and 4x5 is no different you want your exposures to be spoton pay attention to your bellows extension im out of town for the next week or so lets see if remindme 1 week works and ill try to check back have fun shooting looking forward to seeing what you come up with yea i usually do a 35mm test on the latitude so i know the exact latitude of the film have to see if i can find a roll then ill remind you in a week fuji still makes quick loads no this is a second hand market expired yep awesome find that is a calumet cc4xx series camera takes a four inch square lens board revolving back for both portrait and landscape formats pretty basic operation with few options info here find any lenses with it thank you i didnt find a lens board or lens with it but i found one of each that fit in the free shit section of my departments supply closet nobody around here is into 4x5 photography unfortunately what should i do if i find pinhole light leaks in the fabric update not a problem did a 10 min closedshutter test with full extension do you know if calumet is still kicking i couldnt find anything aside from the ritz camera page i have heard black rtv silicone works but i have never tried it calumet is gone as of early this year good news is lf is pretty brandinsensitive for the most part and as long as you have a 4x4 lensboard with the rightsized hole ie copal 0 1 or 3 for the most part you can mount just about any standard large format lens wideangle lenses may require a recessed lens board for infinity focus i think the part number is cc428 may be a bit tough to come by also of note is that your camera is identical to the burke and james orbit so you may have success finding parts under that name as well heres what it looks like cleaned up a bit deleted deleted its an excellent camera as long as you have places that will develop 4x5 film you will most likely have to replace the bellows go in a dark room with a single beam of light and see if it shines through the bellows anywhere the creases are where this usually happens nice find deleted youre set for life then |
im considering to get a wide angle lens for my equipment but have no experience with the fresnel would i need a fresnel for a 100mm lens or already from a 120mm lens | from what i know a fresnel does not need to be changed with lenses you should be able to focus correctly no matter the focal length of lens used i use my fresnel with everything from 65mm to 300mm seems to work fine you dont absolutely need one for wide angle but it does help even out the apparent illumination on the ground glass what focal length it will begin to come apparent depends a lot on the lens itself and the fresnel design they all seem to be a bit different certainly couldnt hurt to have with a 100mm hey mate thanks for your reply think im just gonna buy the lens first and then see if ill need one so basically hes charging 20 for 4 sheets of expiredunknown condition of kodak seeing as how you can get fp4 for 40 brand new great build do those not flush tripod mounts make it hard to use the camera without a tripod thanks i havent tried the shortest exposure ive had so far as been 1m27s so i only intend to use a tripod for this camera oh i wasnt asking about hand holding or something i use my cameras a lot placed on stuff or the floor hence the question sorry im so ingrained that 4x5 tripod i didnt even think about putting it on the floor i guess you could add little feet in the corners if it is a problem when i use my 8x10 pinhole i even go so far as to use guy ropes such a large camera catches any wind at all so its an absolute must to peg the camera down especially with the exposures being so much longer with reciprocity failure at f400 i think ive seen that shot before were you on f295 before it died yes i was and i did post the 8x10 pinhole their too real shame it died now if you could come up with a way to mount lenses to the inside of the lid to be accessible when opened and upholster the inside with with green felt like a pool table just ideas thanks for the ideas you may be on to something there |
i purchased a 4x5 graflex speed graphic a few months ago ive shot with it twice and have been pleased with the results but im not terribly well versed in the ways of large format im hoping that somebody with more experience than i might have some useful knowledge of getting the most out of this camera i know that its not what some would consider top quality and it lacks a number of features found on other large format cameras but i thought it might make a solid jumping off point thanks in advance for any assistance you may be able to offer | what are you wanting to know besides lens movement the speed graphic is a very versatile lf camera its my main shooter and when i was in school i shot everything from sports to news photography shots with it its also very compact ive taken mine on multiple international trips and even on motorcycle outings actually thats very encouraging to hear most of what ive heard others say about the speed graphic is that its fine but not anything to write home about something drew me to it nonetheless and i just had to have one im very glad to hear that its probably quite a bit more capable than i had initially thought i cant remember exactly but in the last 12 years ive seen countless initiatives for bringing back bw film instant film old formula developers printing paperssome even developed and tried to market lf cameras that incorporate the best of yesteryear hardware and optics sadly you never hear about them again this still uses small format film its the same film as the fuji instax camera which is smaller than a standard polaroid hi im a bot for linking direct images of albums with only 1 image source why creator ignoreme deletthis about 1520 year ago i got a call from a friendofafriend her boyfriend was about to throw out this old wooden flatbed it was old clunky needed love and had a nasty scar on the lens of course i wanted it i took it in showed it love and used it to learn 4x5 i would go through spurts of using it consistently mostly while i worked at a lab with bw dipanddunk ive patched and repaired it more times than i know about two years ago i forgot to take it out of its soft case while we were moving the brass rails ended up bent and unrepairable doing cursory searches for new rails i realized this was an opportunity to upgrade i replaced it with a toyo 45a and this wooden beast now sits as an object dart and point of pride in my house |
nothing complicated but i live in wi and have 20 frames of e6 processing to do as economically as possible cheers | also keen to know thedarkroomcom its a film development by mail lab in san clemente california they do e6 but im not positive they do 4x5 e6 if they dont they should know a place that does thanks they do indeed process 4x5 but i was hoping for something either 1 cheaper with film costs the dark room is hovering around 9 frame or 2 midwest locatedi like talking face to face with my photo tech i think theyre probably the one ill end up using but i think i calculated 8090 of processing on this one job if you decide to do it yourself someday and acquire all the necessary hardware an e6 chemical kit is only around 40 you could do the entire batch in one day i would say that many sheets is probably about the limit id wanna push a 32 oz kit thanksgood results oh sure e6 at home is kind of time consuming and tedious but youll save a lot of money heres a sheet of velvia i did once its pretty much a standardized process like c41 so if you do it right it shouldnt look any different than a labs work thats a lovely red cast from velvia which chemistry do you use removed had great but pricey results from thedarkroom id certainly use them again so thanks for the suggestion wonderful service and great care used on my negs just need to find a more economical e6 home solution i think |
currently deciding between a used ebony sw45 or a chamonix 45f2 or 45n2 has anyone used either camera any recommendations or advice ebony is about 400 more than the others will be used for hikinglandscapes so weight and size are considerations | i have a wista45sw that being said ive used the ebony before and quite frankly i would go with what would be the most convenientwellrounded setup which im thinking might be one of the chamonixlike the n2 invest the rest of the money in a good pack and a great carbon fiber set of sticks to stick the camera on what tripod would you recommend looking at a slik 724 cfl i am an ebony sv45te and love it theres nothing like it theres a lot of good four by fives out there but they all have their quirks i have to have absolutely positively no camera shake or movement once everything is locked up its a pet peeve wow only 400 ebony cams seem to be in the 25003500 range used that is way higher than a new chaminox i am no expert but have been told on this thread that ebony is the alpha predator sounds like you have a great deal at hand |
im writing here because i missed the boat on the wanderlust travelwide 4x5 kickstarter back in the day as even though i was a fan of ben syverson i could not afford the relatively modest investment at the time now it appears that the company has disbanded as i can no longer find any place to order a travelwide of my own does anyone have one they would be will to sell used preferably with the recommended 90mm f68 angulon please message or pm me if you have one you are willing to part with thank you | wanderlustcamerascom i dont see anywhere to order any longer do you they are indicating that there will be cameras available as part of anther batch and their looks like a newsletter signup thanks |
i have six 4x5 film holders with film in them i have no idea if they have been exposed or not so i plan to develop them mostly for practice my problem is i dont know if they contain color or bw film is there any way to tell the difference in the dark are the ridges top right corner different should i risk it and just process them all as bw all suggestions welcome | the notch code will tell you what film it is open up your film holders in the dark and feel what the notches look like and check out these resources awesome thanks your can trace the notches onto paper in the dark absolute darkness required thats what i did it worked well enough shot with a schneider kreuznach 210mm lens f8 1100 sec incredible shot thank you |
i am looking for replacement tapered bellows for a toyo 45cx does this camera use the same tapered bellows as a 45a or 45aii | no the 45a series bellows are gluedin while the 45cx bellows are meant to be interchanged with bag bellows and thus are attached with a metal frame whether you could retrofit 45a bellows onto the 45cx frames i have no idea |
ive caught the bug i started with 35mm a little over a year and a half ago moved up to medium format six months ago and now im feeling the need to add a 4x5 to my collection im not interested in a field camera for my first one ive looked through a lot of different brands and models and im most lured towards the horseman l45 i really like the mechanics of the movements when compared to cambo toyo etc does anyone here have any experience with the camera tips moving forward | moving kind of fast arent you the learning curve moving from 35 to 120 is nothing compared to what youre getting into find one or two cameras you love and work with them for a long while you start to get intimate in a way after a few years ive got my old student nikon 5005 25yrs now and i still capture things in it that way outstrip my other cameras im learning to love my newer cameras my linhof technika seems to produce good images with my eye in the 270mm lens but not my others ive got a seagull 4a that grabs people great im starting to get in shape with my nikon f4 i guess what im saying is shoot around but come home to one or two cameras and really grind them get 45000 frames out of your 35 pull 5600 45s from the horseman and then youll start grabbing some magic wista 45 sp is a great one for beginner i would suggest to skip monorail cameras the l45 looks and will work almost exactly like any other monorail camera i would recommend a 210mm as a first lf lens make sure you get a compatible lens board for both the camera and lens that you end up with im not interested in a field camera for my first one why not i started in lf with a cambo monorail and unless you are buying one for instudio work only i wouldnt recommend it for a beginner monorails are heavy bulky and generally a huge pain in the dick to cart around if you actually want to go places and take pictures of things a field camera really does make more sense the linhof tech 45s is a notable exception as its designed to be a fieldportable monorail but they aint cheap the toho fc45x is another onthego monorail if you can find one for sale but it also has its own design compromises that keep the weight down i appreciate the advice but i did say in my post that im not interested in field cameras thanks i was thinking for my first lens i might pick up a 150 f56 symmar s but ive started looking through 210mm lenses well see what i can dig up im willing to sacrifice portability for the extra versatility that the monorail systems offer weight and bulk arent a problem for me i think its important to move forward when my interests do helps keep the passion alive yeah i thought the same way when i started in lf i was wrong and i also found that a monorail didnt offer as much extra ability over a good field camera as i thought it would but if youre deadset on a rail id take a cambo master over the horseman any day same for the aforementioned linhof 45s what do you like about the cambo master over the others thanks for the advice i may very well regret going with a monorail first im just so enamored with them that im happy to take the risk im very interested in doing studio work with it anyways that i dont think it will be a waste of time i found the cambo master to be extremely refined in its movements and the geared adjustments seemed smoother than the horseman if youre just getting started you probably wont notice much of a difference tbh theres a linhof super color for sale locally for fairly cheap at 200 cad do you have any thoughts on that system it seems like a great price but i havent seen too many details on it removed i dont have any handson experience with that particular model sorry i seem to remember they had a limitation of the back tilt and being linhofs budget model they lacked luxuries like geared risefall the one youre looking at seems to have a funky homemade front lens board adapter you might want to see what style of boards actually work with it i just picked up a toyo 45gx for a fantastic deal shipping from japan its a great camera but a little bigger and heavier than the other g series bodies id recommend them as the toyo 158mm sized accessories are plentiful let me know if youre interested in the seller very interested how much did you end up paying what did it include sending you pm aero ektar 178mm f25 sinar p2 kodak portra 160 beautiful thanks |
deleted | gorgeous i shot a few frames of provia but never got 4x5 velvia now i stick to bw so i can dev myself film is fomapan 100 hey i just found this sub been shooting 4x5 for a few years now i work with a scientific rocket program based in alaska we launch rockets roughly 60 feet long up to twice the height of the international space station to perform scientific experiments im also a photographer as a hobbyist and usually take the opportunity to hone my rocket launch photography skills this is the first one ive done on film and it was my tachihara 4x5 field camera im pretty proud of how it turned out since theres no real way to meter or do any kind of test exposure with the high contrast and poor latitude of provia i needed to control the bright light emitted by the rocket to bring it more into balance with the dark sky and landscape based on past experiences shooting rockets with digital cameras and some educated guessing i started the exposure about two hours before launch with the lens open to f8 to expose the sky star trails and distant landscape around 30 seconds before launch i stopped the lens down to f16 to expose for the foreground lit by the rocket like a giant flash |
hi looking for a source or a process to buy or remove the anthalation layer from some 4x5 film cant seem to find a consistent source on either removal or existing products thanks | i mean xray film but its usually orthochromatic and coated on both sides so it scratches easily also its generally in 8x10 so youd have to cut it down thanks i can use a filter to remove the extended sensitivity of ortho right or would that give me an awfull megative it actually has limited sensitivity its primarily sensitive to blue light generally very high contrast as well its got crazy chunk grain in standard chem too it is available in either blue or green sensitive with the right dev not grainy at all likely easily scratched sensitive layers are on both sides on the ones made by foma why do you need that layer gone if i may ask if you make a drying cabinet you could also wash the film dry it then shoot it im not op im the one that suggested xray as a sheet film without anti halation i should have tagged op its a speed graphic anniversary that my grandfather bought in the 40s when he worked as a press photographer i have this to experiment with while im at school unfortunately my grandfather has been struck severely by alzheimers and can no longer share his stories and wisdom with me i will do my best to use this camera well and make him proud |
was wondering if anyone here is selling one im located in usa thanks | whats wrong with getting one off ebay every lens ive gotten has been from a japanese ebay seller and i have yet to have any problems with them when they light scuffs the only makes i could find were on the back side of the lens board i live in canada and even for me the prices im seeing look to be pretty good ive been looking but if i can find someone on here who is getting rid of theirs maybe i could save on the tax that ebay will charge also im in no rush i love this this is a whole mood and im here for it love the tones i preordered one a year and a half ago i finally received it last month ive only run two packs of film through it im waiting for slightly warmer weather one bw one color the results are surprisingly good rated at 800 iso it put out a nice tonal range beautiful thank you id love to see this photo edited |
dear community x200b i am looking into using a medium format back on a view camera due to the option of rise and fall which would suit my photography very much i was wondering if i could use any film back on any 4x5 camera i dont have too much experience with 4x5 but i know how to use it the technical aspects which cameras go with what and are how expensive elude me a bit though x200b if anybody could be of assistance i would be very happy x200b cheers | typically mf backs are mounted via the graflok system so if your lf body is graflokcompatible you should have no problem sourcing a rollfilm back i see is that system common or has it been used often yeah its fairly common but not ubiquitous what lf body are you using or have you not bought one yet i have not yet bought one i just wanted to make sure i dont have to buy and sell and buy again to have the right one i mainly need it because i want to toss my fuji gx680 for a lighter more versatile equipment and process right on if youre looking for lightweight the intrepid camera is an economical option that is graflokcompatible a bigger budget would net you a chamonix or shen hao if going used just make sure the camera has a graflokcompatible back easy thank you so much for helping me out ill definitely keep that in mind |
how to you tell if a lens will cover a 4x5 negative i have an old compur voigtlnder lens anastigmat skepar 145 f83cm anyone have one of these lenses and yes i know the easy answer it to put it on a camera and look at the ground glass i will need to find or maybe make a lens board for that internet help me | you can draw a 4x5 square on a sheet of paper then hold the lens abovein front of it and see if the projected image fills the square this is a very rough estimate done off of what will be a dim image to make it easier i would stand in a doorway with the paper in a darkened room and focus the lit room onto the paper the best way is to google the lens coverage this lens is a tessar type and may illuminate 4x5 but falls far short of actually covering 83mm is quite short focal length for a 4x5 but if you have that lens and the camera you might as well try it especially if the lens has its retaining ring and you can mout it easily chinese lens plates are like 12 euro on ebay worst case scenario it makes a weird circular edge around your image but do not spend the world on getting it mounted after all it is just a tessar type lens and likely made for a 6x9 cm camera there are 90mm lenses around that will cover 4x5 with room to move for not too much money thanks everyone i am new to 4x5 photography i bought a 4x5 pinhole camera a few years ago and liked it i am slowly expanding its a lens hood matte box to prevent reflections from light hitting the lens thank you so much lens hood or shade beautiful i really need to try 4x5 someday ive got two bodies a graflex rail with a 90 and 180mm as well as a calumet with a 90 and 45mm wide angle bellows ive only tried them a few times as they are big heavy and expensive to shoot the negatives are beautiful but the dof is much much different and shots that i thought would be sharp at f8 because i didnt understand the difference in formats and relative fstops at the time were very selectively focused id like to give it another go but wish i had a field camera rather than the rails kits for field work great photo in full sun i whispered an expletive to myself at work looking at the first one very well done surprisingly this film had been stored in my uninsulated attic for the past 35 years bravo i sure wish this was squared off with that top beam or with that vertical line as it is i feel like im listing to the right during the 100th anniversary year of jack kerouacs birth i am documenting the items left at his grave one photo a day to show things people have left pens pencils booze personal notes and writings i am using a 1940s era anniversary speed graphic a 135mm f47 wollensak raptar lens and shooting with ilford hp5 and arista edu ultra 400 prints will be made as 4x5 contacts on either ilfobrom or adox lupex with larger prints to be done by in belmont ma 7th and lincoln what do you dev in i use ilfosol 3 114 love these love it as i was developing the film the top of the tank popped off for a moment thats why there are three shafts of light emanating from the right i think it gives it a kind of ethereal look not sure if i should reshoot it i like the feel of this is constructive critique welcome yes please im new to 4x5 and have so much to learn for this image i used lots of forward tilt and focused on his eyes im new to 4x5 as well i notice the forward tilt but the biggest thing for me is the gnarled piece of wood is partially focused and partially out of focus for me its distracting and takes attention away from your subject thanks i had the same feeling but did not want to crop it out i have tried sharpening just that section but it seem to be just as distracting yeah i dont think cropping would work either i like it overall it wouldnt hurt to take one sheet out and then just look at it open the box in a changing bag pull one sheet out set it aside and close up the box then outside of the changing bag have a looksie at the sheet in day or safe light glossy side is the back and a more mattesatin look is the emulsion side universal code is the notch on the upper right emulsion side |
currently im using a toyo 45cf which i love but i recently got a 75mm lens and its such a pain to use i have it in a deep recessed board and i have to drop the bed to keep it out of the frame its not the end of the world but im wondering if theres something else i could get relatively cheaply ive been thinking maybe a monorail camera ive only ever used field cameras it would be nice to be able to use longer lenses as well im using the toyo 110mm lens boards so thats also a consideration | monorail lf probably is the direction you want to look for the rare combo of affordability and flexibility theyre usually quite a bit cheaper than field cameras and have way more movements and optional accessories downside is they arent as convenient to take on a hike but if you have a large backpack it is doable monorail cameras can have rail extension accessories if you want to try longer lenses and if you want to shoot ultra wide look for one with a bag bellows accessory the bellows is easily interchangable on many monorail cameras and when you swap the accordion style bellows out for a bag bellows you can get a lot more movements with wide lenses looking at used gear on keh right now i see two nice looking 4x5 monorail cameras in ex condition with bag bellows for 141 and 194 id definitely consider one of those for your needs so cheap for professional gear thats one thing i love about large format the prices for much of it is far more reasonable than current medium format gear prices monorails just dont excite collectors i guess but i think its a great system to add to your arsenal for less than the cost of a lens especially if you already have all the other stuff needed to shoot 4x5 just need a lens board or two to go with it there are cameras that exist that are designed to be used with wide lenses but theyre relatively expensive i think what panf has said is good advice sinar is probably your best bet because theyre cheap and abundant i have a horseman and i would not recommend hiking with that its heavy wow 47mm on a flat lens board thats crazy i dont want to know how much it costs though i would love to have one camera to do it all but i love the ease of set up and how light weight my 45cf is it just cant do everything those are very reasonable prices in keh im in canada so their shipping can be expensive but compared to the shipping prices on monorail cameras on ebay its actually not bad and the price for new lens boards wont be so bad if im spending less than 200 on a camera that already has bag bellows do you have any brand preference between monorail cameras are there any features that i need deleted i dont have experience with enough brands of monorail cameras to have a brand preference but i do really like my sinar norma specifically because it is so beautiful looking kinda cool to have a swiss made camera too just something different for making a decision based on pure functionality though id compare the specs of your current 4x5 cameras the available movements and their max ranges minmax focal length etc vs some monorail cameras that youre considering to help pick something that will give you more than what you already have available from your field camera the only specific features that are popping into my head to hold out for aside from that you want a bag bellows are a graflok back not spring back for maximum compatibility with roll film backs and the camera having a rotating back is very handy too edit choosing a lighter model might interest you too and the ability to fold at least a little compactly if you are planning on taking it out of the studio and the sinar norma is totally not that but i have hiked with it anyway when i had no field camera and it was challenging but fun and rewarding thank you something lighter would definitely be a plus ill keep an eye out for something with bag bellows i could not use 90mm on a flat lens board on my cambo sc i suspect it is much the same with the rest of the monorail cameras you could sell your toyo and get a camera more useful for wide angle deleted its true i could sell it but at this point id like to find something cheap to test it out i very much like my toyo for everything else and the cf seems hard to come by these days and much more expensive than what i paid for it what do you use to trigger the flash the lens has a syncport i used a cable from the lens to the flash |
yesterday 623 there was a guy shooting 4x5 w a graflex speed graphic switching holders etc anyone know more about this brought back memories | guessing it was frank thorp hes known to shoot large format black and white around political happenings yes without a doubt it was frank thorp here is ig for those interested thanks rphotomarket clips look into what the wanderlust travelwide used for its back really simple method of securing a film holder that works surprisingly well youll need to fabricate something to keep the edges around the holder light tight though ive got a recently acquired toyo field camera and am struggling to find a bag i like i dont think i will be hiking into the backcountry with this rig but i will largely be shooting landscapes so portability is clutch what are you all using i have an f64 backpack i found on clearance when i bought my toyo plenty of room it fits the standard setup with two lenses side bags for 1012 film holders various kickbacks and still room left over for lunch or a jacket also my first lf bag was a softsided cooler no joke it worked well when i was just driving to the locations and it was cheap what a regal pup sir good boy he is a remarkably good boy best ive ever had a tatonka backpack with custom built wood inserts that pup is soaking in the moment i love it hey thats a cool bit of engineering you keep the film holders in the top compartment yes and the cloth on top under the flap to reduce rattling i bought a used zone iv 4x5 and it came with the white zone iv weatherproof bag that is a thing of beauty and a joy to behold im using a pelican 1500 with wheels to carry my camera 12 holders light meter and other gear it has the yellow soft dividers which make it easy to see everything link |
i want to buy the canon canonet 28 to take with me on vacation but im not sure if its a good camera | its great as long as youre looking for an auto exposure rangefinder very sharp lens accurate light meter easy to focus ergonomic and easy to use this was the camera my dad bought me in 1979 still use it takes great photos it should shoot full manual as well right i think its just a ql17 with an f28 lens instead the canonet 28 is great and really small no on the 28 you have no control of the shutter speed and aperture control is only for flash the shutter speed gets locked at 130 sec it is intended to be used as an auto exposure camera thanks sounds really nice this is great thanks ahh too good this looks like a front yard or park christmas decoration lol where did you find it that you could take a nsfw picture great picture i just couldnt help but ask thank you very much yes it is a christmar park near the shopping center i was just waiting for no one to pass by two companies currently make the stuff marketed as r09 and adonal so you dont have to worry about stashing it too much that wasnt a sure thing when agfa went tits up my last six bottles from the ten i had rounded up you could always make your own as someone who only uses d76 and is looking to get into other developers what generally are the difference between using rodinal and d76 or rodinal and something like ddx came for this stayed for the soup i use r09 great stuff well this should last the next 500 years it being rodinal shouldnt it all kinds of things kodak for example gives this overview to sum up properties of their developers shadow detail is obviously important as it determines if a specific developer achieves the box speed of a particular film lower shadow detail means a loss of effective speed and you may need to compensate for it during exposure in camera grain looks selfexplanatory although it may not be the amount of grain is in fact not dependent on the developer the size of the grain however is sharpnessacutance is essentially micro contrast the higher it is the more apparent grain tends to become even though its amount is of course fixed rodinal has the reputation of producing sharp and crisp negatives at the expense of grain which is why it is commonly recommended for slower films there are ways around this and ive yet to come across an absolute statement about a particular developer that couldnt be falsified eventually rodinal can easily be turned into a lowgrain developer with medium acutance by adding sodium ascorbate which acts as an intensifier and thus cuts down on development time i do this frequently mostly as a convenience to keep development times down but it has some other advantages it yields somewhat smoother rendering than plain rodinal would there are some other properties that the above chart does not list there is the class of staining developers such as pmk pyro those developers strive for maximum sharpness and lowest grain which are normally antagonists negatives thusly developed require a somewhat different approach in darkroom printing another important property is if a developer is semi compensating a semicompensating developer is hc110 at low dilutions whereas rodinaladonal is considered compensating when used for standdevelopment again at very low dilutions compensating means that the overall contrast of the negative is reduced which means your film may now record more details both in the shadows and highlights simultaneously this is obviously very useful in highcontrast situations or with film that naturally produces high contrast modern medium speed tgrain films do such as delta 100 and tmax 100 likewise it can save you when you accidentally exposed the same roll at different speeds this happens to me occasionally this is an example of a shot exposed at asa 400 on an asa 100 film this was standdeveloped in adonal for 90 minutes contrast is still quite high but the negative would have been entirely unusable had it been developed in any noncompensating developer sure try to find paminophenol in uruguay even metol for d76 is iffy phenidone hydroquinone hah my soup for a long time was homemade perceptol diluted 13 being it only metol sodium sulfite and sodium chloride it was easy to make in real life try it on one roll and see if you like it in my experience rodinal sucks for delta grain films and hp5 its an acquired taste for trix too much grain for little increase in apparent sharpness fx2 is better its very good for apx400 i found it good on slow speed films pan50 apx 100 fp4 grain is moderate and contributes to apparent sharpness now on tones a rodinal developed neg has a different tone distribution than a d76one in my experience its more of an straight line with less separation in the middle for the rodinal ones and more highlight detail it lends itself to bold printing in order to separate skin tones for example its not better than d76 just different i use d76 rodinal and fx2 depending on the subject film lens and my particular whims of the day wow that was a great writeup very informative without being incomprehensible and the chart is super helpful thanks you wouldnt happen to have any more material for those wanting to know a bit more about different developers and their effects without neccesarily being chemist majors also you wouldnt know if theres a similar sheet for ilford developers edit i would rbestof this but i dont think they would appreciate the information as much as us why would you live in a country where you cant make your own rodinal but seriously i hear you sometimes its hard to get the ingredients fortunately nowadays you can get almost anything over the web check out bosticksullivancom if you havent already heres a better one i cant get any kind of rodinal or hc110 or anything remotely liquid shipped to me cause i live on an island same goes for pretty much any chemicals needed to homeroll something too its buying powders or nothing you wouldnt happen to have any more material for those wanting to know a bit more about different developers and their effects without neccesarily being chemist majors anything i have in my bookmarks folder i assembled over time and its not very systematic well known is the unofficial hc110 developer resource page which makes a few comparisons to other developers specifically d76 that you are familiar with theres a similar type of page for rodinal this is specifically where i got the idea of adding sodium ascorbate from websites dedicated to a particular developer can never quite resist to dissect chemical details and neither can these two i generally find that doing a simple google search for a particular developer will reliably find discussions in photographyrelated forums often discussing differences between developers the problem with those is that theres a tendency for every conceivable opinion to be expressed eventually ultimately this just goes to show that differences between most developers are often quite subtle and more often than not depend either on the specific development technique or personal biases to me its more important to have a few developers that i regularly use and that combined cover all the scenarios i frequently run into in my case those are hc110 rodinal and very rarely pyro pmk ive used other developers in the past ilfosol3 and ddx and i was happy with them i eventually ditched them because of rather poor shelf life rodinal sucks for delta grain films and hp5 looks good with hp5 on medium format but youre correct it really excels with pan f and fp4 medium format is a different beast i mainly shoot 35mm at about 1012x enlargements on a condenser leitz valoy ii focotar2 lens this is a recipe for sharp grain and the grain pattern of hp5 is displeasing to my eye fortunately nowadays you can get almost anything over the web import duty on uruguay is 60 of the fob price price shipping costs 16 also i must by law hire a customs clearings agent to fill the paperwork their rates start at about usd 200 also any chemicals shipped are automatically held back until cleared by higher authorities in some months time unless i grease some hands which i wont do by principle oh god i love rodinal holy crap that sounds terrible not sure i could survive without online shopping for stuff dont go to the store much anymore except for groceries beautiful photo man what a landscape amazing photo where as it taken wicked shot man assuming a 10 sec timer how did you get from a to b that fast great place great photo and did you catch anything awesome shit a very sketch spring over some rocks shutter went off about a second after i picked up the pole didnt catch anything unfortunately snow lake wa thank you thanks ahem you didnt catch anything but this keeper oh shit whats up brae i watch your videos all the time awesome shot love your youtube channel wow this is awesome thanks for sharing that looks like an ideal getaway took a pentax 67ii on a backpacking trip i like your style lovely shot removed thank you thank you appreciate it thanks its the go to in the summer my knees hate me thanks haha appreciate it amazing photo beautiful a wonderful symphony of colours and a great composition yooo love your videos brae and love the shot link to channel that is indeed an incredible shot absolutely phenomenal absolutely gorgeous can see the shift movement of the water where you stepped to get into place an interesting part of the story in my opinion happy new year bro i hope youll be able to do all the hikes and take all the photos you want awesome shot i watch your videos all the time incredible photo okay wow this is beautiful id definitely frame this one as an idiot who travels with one i feel your pain ah i believe i watched the youtube video with this in it good work as always those feet to scale gorgeous photo this looks incredibly peaceful sweet colours dreamy scenery and chill atmosphere wonderful photograph do you guys like the full or would a slight crop look better beautiful dog this is an absolutely beautiful photo and dog great work love all of them all of these have a great atmosphere really well done i especially like the two from mexico city thank you so much gah same such great locations there stunning that first one is particularly incredible what was the lighting situation in the movie theater was it a set or spontaneous fantastic i used two led fresnels as key lights for that one plus some fog machine in the background with a tungsten fresnel wow amazing what lens do you use for the pentax i love your work im wondering if i shoot portra 400 with tungsten light do i have to use a filter as well for balancing color temperature nice image i love the srt 101 i like the 102 better because of the split screen focus and my bad eyesight be well what a great shot on a great camera love my little 101 would this clock happen to be in orange county ca niles ca frames are from different days on different rolls of film its not every shot but 13 on each roll will have this issue orange light leaks make me think back of camera you replace seals yet pretty simple process and kits are available online to test you can always use electrical tape covering the camera door seams and running through the roll ae1 is most vulnerable to have light leaks near the door hinge and the latch but to be safe replace the channels as well lots of youtube tutorials ive done a couple ae1s and an a1 all with 15mm sheet foam for amazon you can get the kits but its cheaper to buy a sheet and cut to size new light seals this reminds me of my first family road trip thank you thanks glad you and one other feel something awesome shots no idea what that kid in the last pic is doing i had a red filter on my hexar and thought the black volcanic rock would look interesting kids are strange love 2 first review of the year reflecta x66 a low cost scanner for 120 and 35mm reflecta is a german company specializing in film scanners the x66 is their 2nd attempt at a low cost scanning solution for 120 medium format and 35mm film this is oemed from elsewhere and is very similar to the wolverine line of low cost scanners i have written about the wolverine 35mm and 120 scanners previously what is new is that the x66 has increased the resolution somewhat 14mb or 22 with interpolation in this post i post four comparison images the first with the emulsion facing down emulsion facing up scan from epson v700 scanner and scan from epson v700 with post processing i have also included the box photos so that you can read the specs here are my conclusion fast scanner ie there is no lag as it has a sensor that snaps a picture of the negative it saves onto a sd card and does not need a computer to operate it is better than other similar fast 120 scanners and double the resolution of the previous model great for social media has two slots one for 35mm and the other for 120 etc resolution and details are lacking compared to the epson v700 scanner saves only in jpg loses too much crop on one side this is consistent with the similar fast wolverine 120 scanner scanner info a specialised scanning website concludes that reflecta x66 produces a resolution of only 1800ppi pixels per inch which isnt great for film archival but adequate for screen presentation you can read their full review here |
any film camera lens experts here that can advise if the markscondition of this lens will affect shooting with film this is a nikkor 5cm f11 btw thank you | if youre planning on buying it probably look for a better one the filter threads are messed up too it could have been dropped or gotten all kinds of damage impossible to tell from the photos alone how the scratch would affect shooting nikon made a 5cm f1 1 i didnt know such a lens existed that scratch will affect image quality but not as much as it would if the scratch wad on the drone element can you post a pic of the front of the lens |
this thread is for you to promote your blog flickr 500px web site etc but it must be about analog photography to begin with this thread will be monthly but will be adjusted as needed a new thread is created every month to see the previous community threads see here | hello all ive been shooting with film over 10 years and recently started a youtube channel to document my film shoots heres a short video of me shooting the streets of berlin with an xpan hey ranalog im a photographer based in melbourne australia been shooting street portraits sometimes fashion and lately dabbling in more minimalist and abstract work more of my stuff hello im a photographer who recently bit the bullet and made an ig instagramcomthefantomehour deleted hey there im based in germany and shoot 35mm and potentially 120 soon as a hobby also its kind of a form of therapy for me i mainly shoot mundane and overlooked enviroments nice scenery and street life just stuff that inspires me andor evokes a feeling also im trying to get into portrait photography thanks for checking it out hi all i run a small 35mm mailin film lab in socal called harvey film lab we start at 10 and scan on noritsu frontier scanners check it out hi there mainly focused on film photography is the tiny island country of singapore do give me a follow photographer from the south coast of the uk in brighton taking predominantly 35mm street photography with a few from my travels dropped in 99 film photography majority black and white hey all new to the community and enjoying it i am a street photographer from glasgow living in warsaw poland ive studied under richard kalvar and bruce gilden and teach photography professionally i write about photography for shoot it with film 35mmc and others ive recently launched a street photography newsletter called photos mostly on substack and you can find out more at the link if youre interested or you like what you read come join me and subscribe hello im new to this community but ive been reasonably serious about photography since my college days way back in the full bore hippy era i shot nothing but film for decades and i still have a great fondness for everything film does well one thing film does not do well is age and i speak from experience when i say that i just completed a project for an old friend he discovered a cache of his old negatives two dozen rolls of tri x and plus x that he shot in peru and bolivia in 1971 he processed the film but never made any prints so hed never even seen any of the pictures i volunteered to scan them and ill tell you the years had not been kind specks scratches pits in the emulsion embedded fibers missing emulsion that said the photos were wonderful so i took the time to edit the best of them anyone interested in seeing how they came out should check my blog cheers those scans look amazing to me and your stories of piracy are a lesson in karma worth looking at for sure great stuff good evening ive been shooting film for ahem40 years with many different formats looks and subjects new to this reddit game but enjoying it very much website film link posting mostly urban stuff on sometimes expired film with a variety of film cameras from around western germany ruhr duisburg essen dortmund rhine dsseldorf cologne or rarely travel shots europe us sometimes im in the mood for some digital as well right now i like to use a leica q typ116 at the moment i shoot a lot of nikon fe f4s f6 stnbrchr recently i started a new blog with two mates bild37 hello everyone im working with analog medium for the last 5 years mainly shooting black and white in my process i prefer to do all stages by myself currently im working on self publishing my first photobook which was shoot on large format camera im restoring a large amount of kodachrome film my mom collected after my grandfather passed in june 2011 he was a fashion photographer from the 1950s and 60s later in his life he began shooting everything from ghost towns to the sky earth wind and water im sharing some of his work as i scan it on instagram i have over 10000 kodachrome slides film strips which range from the 1970s2000s many are ghost towns what should i do other than share his work on instagram many of the historic landmarks he took photos of have decayed past recognition hi i am a photographer living in italy shooting mainly landscapes with my canon ae1 and pentacon six tl here is my ig any critique is welcome thanks hi everyone i am a hobbyist photographer living and working as an interpreter in graz austria check my instagram at removed stunning thank you this is like a magazine advert nice one huge nostalgia hit for me i remember playing rainbow six on dreamcast and being scared af of the ai i bought a dreamcast while home from college winter break of 99 somewhere theres a polaroid of my friends and i playing i think soul reaver on nye thanks old game shots are always a nostalgia kick for me too its cool how we can hear the console startup sound soundtrack sound effects etc just by seeing a picture oh nice my brother got one around then too with power stone that game blew my mind hope you still have that polaroid i still dream man skies of arcadia jet set radio crazy taxi shenmue soul caliber powerstone 2 hella hit by a wave of nostalgia right now grandia ii outtrigger shenmue i ii are games i will never forget i dont think sega would have failed had people not been able to burn copies of their dreamcast games that was a big factor for sure but ps2 just had so much going for it at the time and people opted to wait backward compatability with improved graphicsload times cddvd player more power better 3rd party support and a shit ton of hype i worked at toys r us in that period and parents lost their shit from you can play all your old ps1 games use the old controllers on games that support it and there is a builtin dvd player |
so im new to shooting analog and i really admire the skill and history behind film and all that i mostly just like taking pictures so i got this and this now obviously the diana isnt supposed to be hyper professional but i gotta say its really fun to shoot with and 120mm film is cheap thoughts | someone i know with a great deal of photographic experience considers the nikon f100 the greatest film slr ever i agree really the camera and a lens costs around the same as yours not too bad a price for what you get but i am not sure if the higher shutter speeds on the new 35mm bodies are really worth the price over the used previous gen stuff we have a similar house here in south australia same name more windows though lovely study of it this might be of interest to you wow there are a lot this is so eerie i love it these be very pogger there is actually a fairly recent post on the official leica blog about a photographer whos into photographing these kinda spaceships interesting backstory as well 100 worth a read where is this theres one futuro house near where i live willingboro oh very cool id love to read it if you happen upon it again would you be so kind to share the link thanks of course here it is unfortunately tho i cant find it in english im sorry thank you thank you google translate to the rescue i love delta 100 from your photos i especially love no 3 and 5 from a compositional perspective i need to go out with my kiev 6 a lot more before the winter ends thank you it has been years since i shot delta and am falling in love with it again thanks for the feedback oh yes its giving me the langoliers huge compliment haha you deserve it how did you achieve the green tintor color i guess i almost feel i could look down at my paper and it would be 93 with the lighting its caused by using daylight balances film under fluorescent lights if you dont want the green you need to use a magenta filter to achieve correct balance thank you im very amateur with my own photography so this is cool to know maybe ill experiment liminal spaces great photo here is a link to the data sheet for portrait 800 youll find exposure compensation for different lighting conditions youre welcome |
im on my first roll of film kodak gold 200 iso my lens is 50mm obviously have not gotten anything developed yet but im just worried every one is gonna turn out like crap i dont expect them to be immaculate or anything but id like for them to be somewhat okay to look at ive been using a light meter app on my phone i set the iso and it tells me what to set for shutter speed and aperture the first couple i took i was trying to figure it out myself by looking at the light meter in the viewfinder but i could never seem to get it to not be underexposed so someone on another sub suggested the app i had been putting the aperture to the automatic setting but im just not sure what is best manually setting it or using that a mode does anyone have any tips also how do i adjust or work with depth of field i barely know what depth of field means anyway i have been watching videos and reading articles but some in the moment advice from other people seems helpful i am also going to be visiting hawaii in february what settings are best for landscape shots and i assume bright sunny light thank you in advance | 1 make sure your camera is set to the correct iso for the film youre using 2 try bracketing a few shots which basically means take the first photo to the exposure setting the applight meter tells you the next picture keep everything the same but change your exposure speed to one faster and then another photo with exposure speed one slower will help you find out where the exposure is going wrong and adjust in the future 3 normally one of the main benefits of using a legit camera is to manually set the aperture a smaller f stop18 2 24 or whatever your camera has gives you a shallower depth of field and lets more light into the camera so you can shoot faster exposure speeds but while youre starting out setting the aperture to automatic while you get familiar should be fine 4 im sure youve read this already but depth of field is the what distances are in focus when you take a picture the lower the number the less distance will be in focus and the more blurry the background will be its usually used single out a subject and distinguish it from its surroundings while on the other hand if the number is biggerlike 22 more things will be in focus like the tree 10 feet away as well as the mountain miles away 5 if youre shooting while just holding the camera in your hands try to keep the shutter speed at or above 160 once you start to dip below that your pictures can come out shaky if youre holding by hand i think thats all ive got for now this is very helpful thank you so much so if i want to shoot landscapes of things far away i should want a bigger number to have more of it in focus and the bigger number would be better for brighter scenes since the opening is smaller i definitely havent had the shutter above 160 except for a couple times outside when it was cloudy but bright with the snow i have mostly been taking photos in lower light so far indoors so i had it at longer speeds will my photos be crap you can look up example images of landscapes taken at different aperture settings different lenses produce different results but some lenses tend to lose their sharpness when you use either extreme correct bigger number is better for bright scenes its not a guarantee theyll be crap but depending how shaky you are they may come out blurry sometimes it ruins a photo sometimes blur improves the look it gives sometimes its not even noticeable theres really no way to know until you see the finished product final thing shooting film indoors can be tricky because artificial light reacts differently with certain types of films whenever youre ready for that look up the different types of film tungsten color negative positive etc etc if you get your pictures back and theyre all grainy and green dont get discouraged it happens pretty easily indoors and when underexposed last last thing film tends to take to be overexposed better than it does being underexposed film can handle being overexposed and still produce a great image some people even exclusively shoot slightly overexposed because they like the way it looks better underexposed pictures tend to suffer from heavy grain strange tints across the whole image and serious lack of detail for example the first 2 are underexposed first one is super grainy second one has a kinda weird tone and a lack of detail third one is over exposed and even with that there is still a lot of color contrast and sharpness compared to the other 2 so if i want it to be a bit overexposed which setting would i adjust aperture sorry im still trying to figure out each thing and get them mixed up sometimes but thank you so much all of this really helps a lot any of them really for now keep your iso setting to whatever your film says but both the f stop and shutter speed can help you get the correct exposure its just up to you what you want to change given the setting your in for example you need to expose more but youre holding your camera by hand you can go down to 160 or lower if you have a tripodsomething you can rest your camera on to keep it still and if thats still not enough you can try lowering your aperture as well sometimes there just isnt enough light to get the image you want at all and youve just got to live with it look up the exposure triangle on google and look at images its a basic chart of how the 3 settings interact with each other thank you ill check it out and youve been very helpful no problem also i messed up its the exposure triangle i was thinking of but both charts help i found this is this pretty accurate some of the charts differ slightly but ill try to go off one for now so i dont get so confused lol yes thats something a lot of film photographers memorize so they can get a general idea of what settings to shoot without a meter im sorry i have just one more question this chart for the depth of field on the left if im wanting to take a photo of the ocean and mountains in the distance i would want it to all be in focus like the bottom image on the aperture side but then it says less light by the bottom picture as well but the ocean and mountains will likely be a bright sunny day so would i not want the smaller number for more light the moreless light marks on that triangle are showing how much light will be let into the camera so the larger the aperture number the less light being let in but i see why it looks confusing the picture you linked comes from a website with an article covering the sunny 16 rule so that should help explain it too ahhhhhh okay that clears that up thank you again no problem if you have any other question feel free to message me anytime and ill help if i can think about keeping a log of each frame and the exposure setting its time consuming but it will give you a frame of reference when you get your film back i agree with overexposure if you are shooting color negative film metering apps are pretty good you are basically trying to control light dont overcomplicate folllow your eye one tip think big bigger biggestmove in or out to change the composition youre going to ruin lots of film in your analog journey just accept it as part of the process find the manual for your camera and read it with your camera in your hand use your light meter app to see if your in camera meter is accurate to a stop or so is fine if it is using a and focussing manually should give good exposures if not youll need to understand the relationship between aperture and shutter speed ill have to see if the meter is accurate if i set the settings to whatever the light meter app tells me to set it to should they come out okay as long as you understand what its telling you your iso is set correctly and youre aware of the potential problems with metering especially high contrast like sky and shade youll be somewhere close often if you can play with the scans you can recover iffy shots just by adjusting things a bit in post doesnt have to mean anything special i use my phones photo app |
deleted | may i ask how manageable it is carrying the 500cm around i just sold my rz67 because it was so big and heavy and im looking to replace it love the photo btw its not too bad its pretty light for being a mf system its like 15kg with the 80mm 28 so far its been very manageable the 80 28 is a very stubby lens too so its pretty compact not much bigger than a tlr and thank you the atmosphere is great in this one thank you beautiful where is this in a far flung corner of singapore cool liminal spaces great capture mfer just parked his ufo yes i love photographing spaces like these reminds me of the film arrival is this at kaki bukit yes under the viaduct ive walked under this viaduct from the saf driving centre to the mrt so many times its a pretty cool arealoads of rubbish though nowhere or now here is this a liminal space or place for those who dont belong to anywhere else out of sight out of mind hey there what a great shot do you happen to remember the settings for this picture was the film pushed not pushed at all i think it was 25 hours f11 and shot at box speed im not 100 on exactly how long the exposure was since its all using the bulb setting thank you and congrats for the great shot great lighting wow please go easy on me i know im boring very cozy nice i hear the yashicas are great tell us how it goes when im not lugging my large format equipment out i take pride in a mamiya c330 it shall not disappoint a yashica was my first mf hell it was my first analog camera too hope you get some awesome shots tlrs are great just be careful shooting any close ups depends on the specific tlr this is never an issue with a rolleiflex or even a cheap rolleicord which offer parallax correction in the viewfinder this wasis my firstonly medium format camera its awesome can be a bit difficult to focus and it doesnt do closeups very well but other than that it is awesome i just picked up a mamiya c220 about two weeks ago my first medium format as well have fun getting used to the mirrored viewfinder i still havent gotten the hang of it i have the same one mat124g its fun i shoot 35 mostly because its faster easier etc but medium format for the win this was my first medium format camera too youre gonna love it i can still be caught swinging my hips around trying to the the verticals right in the viewfinder and ive been shooting mf for over a year and lf for three i hear it take many camera hours to get it just right happy shooting sweet i have the nong version and its almost too cool of a camera be prepared to have people stop you every five minutes to ask about it not as crisp or versatile as my rb but damn you cant beat it for portability youre going to love this camera more than yourself i cant tell you how much this camera gives me a special feeling in my special areas try doing all sorts of shots with it to see what you like ive done street and portrature and landscape and all rock im so happy for you i want to go and shoot more myself ah didnt know that thanks for sharing congrats great camera it was my first mf camera as well gonna develope some rolls tonight mboy i really gotta use my rollei already i have one with a set of the original auxiliary lenses i really should use it more yessir put a few rolls through it on the weekend wandering around at a wedding taking candid snaps really looking forward to developing tonight post them when youre done id love to see some if you missed my post before you can check out some of mine here i swear its not link spam the problem with my stuff is that the colour isnt developed by me the shop that did it does a pretty crappy job i have been searching for a few different places and i think i may have found a good place ive never used a tlr before but welcome to the medium format addiction your wallet will hate you man love the street portrait stuff what kind of film did you use for the bw stuff theres a really cool old guy who just repairs cameras nowadays and he has some betterthannewcondition cameras through replacing parts im saving up for a 124g hes selling one of the betterthannewcondition ones for only 200 is it worth it ive tried two types and both are great tmax 400 and ilford delta 400 delta is supposed to have finer grain but i dont really notice i do the bw developing at home so i can control the results i highly recommend doing it yourself you dont need a dark room either just a changing back and then the other things initial setup is about 150 and then the costs afterwards are just for chemicals with are cheap this only lets you develop the film not print the images to do that you need a properish dark room setup and then the only real extra cost is the redlight and the enlarger did the panorama bach come with the camera or did you buy it separatel the prices are a bit insane i think i bought it as part of a kit but it was priced accordingly theyre expensive but theyre uncommon and in demand so it is what it is deleted good collection if you had to choose one camera between the canon or olympus which would it be some if the best shots ive seen here thank you is 5 a popular spot i really like how the fog sits number 5 is sutro tower in sf you can see it almost anywhere in the city it is very popular indeed also i love how the fogcloud sits too i love the canon and the ef lenses i have but id pick the olympus for three reasons one its fully mechanical and wont die on me one day two its a really compact slr way smaller than the canon especially with the 50mm f14 on three that 50mm is my favorite lens that ive ever used its a compact light sucking beast bonus points that the olympus is a handsome classic camera thank you that really means a lot what speed did you shoot the bwxx at ill be loading a roll in a few days and im not sure if i should go for 400 or 800 love the shot of amoeba the recommended speed is 250 outdoors and 200 indoors and thats how i shot it really nice work thanks for sharing wise choice of gear af film slrs have always been vastly under appreciated me too nice no strap yup usually just take one or two shots and put it back into the bag deleted these photos are absolutely insane 2 is great love 3 and 4 nice work weirdly surreal most of your shots are something id put on my wall some lovely photos here thanks for sharing wow these are amazing did you push the film down 1 stop before each shot dude id make an album cover with these the first 4 are amazing good job 3 is absolutely amazing ditto 1 is cool too did you achieve this by hand or with a tripod and flipping the camera 180 degrees do you have a rig for putting your camera upside down on a tripod thanks love lomo you are absolutely right the first 3 are rad 3 is blowing my mind 3 is a trip love it amazing all by hand just framed the first pic then flipped the camera upside down and lined it up the same way wow you got it very accurately for simple hand holding congrats congrats on making it through the check list to actually to be able to make a lf photo have fun lf large format two photos of our neighbours dog max he has been retired from his work on a farm as a sheep dog due to a throat cancer thankfully the tumour has no nerve connections and thus causes him no pain max is a very smart good natured albeit smelly boy here he is enjoying some meat scraps from dinner time first photo f4 1125 second photo f2 1500 the film stock is expired by about 2530 years developed using ddx at 20c neg flip and light contrast lift done in darktable haha nice shots i love how the texture of the film and shallow depth adds to his shabbiness aaaaaah hes so cute nice shots |
im trying to find zoom lenses for my asahi pentax sp1000 i wanted it to be between 3080mm but all i can find are bayonet mounts my camera works with a screw mount hence my search is being difficult i cant imagine that back in the day they didnt have any screw mount zoom lenses that had a wide angle | deleted and zoom lenses date back to 1900 makinon 28 80mm 35 continuous is what ive used previously pretty happy with it but the version with continuous aperture doesnt seem too common old zoom lenses werent good and it took a while for them to figure out how to make wide angle zooms they exist but are not common or good they didnt really kick off until the 70s the only zoom lenses ive used that would work with m42 and are even worth considering are the tamron adaptall 2 lenses you can get an m42 adapter for it but ive never owned one the lenses are pretty good and can be used on pretty much any camera body as long as you can find the appropriate attachment m42 zooms are pretty horrible and once you add in the age zoom creep and additional complexity inside with attendant lubrication issues most of us avoid them the earliest i tend to trust and even then only if i need the flexibility is early pentax k mount m and a series smc zooms usually survive well m42 is so easy to change lenses on i just keep another focal length in my pocket and accept the restrictions and enjoy the benefits of primes get a vivitar series 1 3585mm f28 lens under 100 on ebay do you have any hint for adapters thats acc a great idea its literally a system tamron made that uses different mounts for the same lens they made the lens and then you would buy the appropriate mount for each camera you wanted to use it on just look up tamron adaptall 2 oh sorry im dumb i read adaptall as adapter p no worries its technically an adapter deleted ive been seeing a fair number of cpc phase 2 2850mm 13545 lenses for m42 on ebay no experience on my part as to quality ive been thinking about picking up something like that for myself one hint dont bother with trying to filter listings by lens mount a lot of listings dont bother to specify it or have the wrong one anyway just look at interesting listings and check the photos takumar primes are stunning the zooms not so much the widest tak zoom is the 45125f4 its huge 67mm filter heavy 605g complicated 14 elements rare and expensive seriously save yourself the pain and get a nice set of primes this is the answer i began my career on the canon fd system and sharp close focusing prime lenses like a simple 2428 3518 or 1352 were a joy to use and make images with we all chased after zooms and the dream of a zoom lens or two replacing our bag of primes but even the better zoom lenses like my fd 203535l were a let down in many ways the just werent as sharp fast bright and often didnt focus nearly as close as the bag of primes we were used to alt text a multigenerational family of 4 child two parents and grandparent sit on a park bench beside stow lake in san franciscos golden gate park thats lovely love the bridge and the city lights around the fireworks quacker of a photo lovely love this they are coming for usgreat photo wonderful this gives me steve mccurry vibes love it oh id buy this great photo 50000 people used to live here now its a goose town parque da cidade porto portugal right hell yea im amazed by this place great photo its nice to see people not overediting portra 400 this is a banger it genuinely made me happy for some reason great work 100 agree look at all these chickens excellent i wish i had a way to gift thank you so much precisely we cant stop here this is goose land im convinced this is a still from a goose movie im on board this would make a killer big ol print looking 3d did you meter this in the shade or the sunny part of the picture great picture i pointed the light meter at the goose so it exposed for shadows perfect for an album cover look at that perfect goose step formation waterproof chickens hey loving the tones in the photo would love to know what scanner was used now feed them and watch them start running towards you lol theyre all coming to clock in because the shift starts at 700 and its 703 beautiful peace peace was never an option oh man lol i love this the depth and colour are exquisite such a great photo a gaggle of geese on the green grass great shot i like that you left the edges uncropped amazing lovely piece would really enjoy a cut of the first four on the left big gang vibes check out my personal cut with this image on my instagram this weirdly evokes a lot of senses i can almost head some whimsical marching song great stuff this makes me laugh and i love it wait what its a quote from cpt quackmillan i like them too thanks for sharing i dont have a 75 mm lens for my rb67 use a 50 a lot but you may have inspired me to look for one thank you i appreciate that i love the 75mm at around 40mm equivalent its a nice balance for landscapes youre so right dont know why i didnt think of it before i love the 42mm on my little olympus 35sp so it should have followed in my tiny brain i guess im just too in love with that 50 to see past it thank you now i have a quest for 2023 oh and not to be presumptuous but i think those three would look nice contact print size or just a little larger three in a horizontal row in a single frame though spaced farther than the film frames very nice thanks again for starting my 2023 off right very nice thanks for sharing totally agree on the contact sheets thanks for the recommendation i appreciate that thanks i guess its out with the old and in with the new to me for the new year thinking about rb lenses there is no 75 turns out i must have been thinking of the 65 but thats here nor there got me looking around and as a result i think im going to trade in my rb kit never made as much use of the interchangeable backs as i thought i would on a fuji gm670 wish me luck such a cool perspective the exposure and texture are gorgeous well done amazing i almost scrolled right past because i thought it was a drawing on one of my art subs thanks the grain certainly helps thank you i got funny looks stopping on the stairs but had to when i saw it great picture are these the stairs in the sydney university business building the contrast is lovely good eye visited there recently beautiful architecture that it is the whole uni is full of nice architecture nice work so cool i love the 24 28 underrated imo hi unanideska3218 i have been going back and forth between the 42mm 12 and the 40mm 14 ive read a handful of places that the f12 is considerable softer than the f12 but your photo here look really sharp x200b do you have any more examples of the 42mm 12 also are you happy with your purchase of this lens and is it worth the extra do you have other ft lenses tia i mean for priceperformance i will definitely go for the 40 f14 the 42 f12 indeed has some softness to it but once stopped down to f28 should be perfectly fine my gf gifted me this lens so it s definitely worth it for me but personally i will just go for the 40 f14 to save some not my leica and also not my cat lol i used to have the 38 f18 but yea i sold it once i got this lens also at f12 the lens is really hard to focus correctly since the dof is too shallow while shooting i hardly ever use f12 but it does yield some cool images certainly city and the cafe tea house at f12 also one of the reasons why the 42 f12 is so expensive is because it s rare if i remember correctly feel free to correct me if i am wrong there were only over 2000 lens produced |
deleted | cool shots i like number 4 the most did you share photography with your son or did he share it with you i shared it with him when he was 16 years old a few years on now and his girlfriend just took a film photography class at her college because he introduced it to her this is fantastic thanks this means a lot ive been avoiding bw for the longest time but recently got on a hp5 streak and i am absolutely loving it amazing shot love the composition and feel this is a winner i think not cropping the edge of the head would have been nice but i doubt most onlookers will notice very cool project as mentioned the head is cropped partly but it doesnt bother me too much there are actually three things that bother me more first the petty one theres a waterdrop under her chin which just pulls my attention second she has bloodshot eyes which changes the emotion for me third we can see her thumb but nothing more of her right hand i would advise to have her hand in the image or not but not partly still a cool picture though removed love the styling and lighting on this shot removed appreciate this perspective i actually had the urge to crop in a bit more and felt a small strip of white space along the top would look odd ill play around with some other cropping options in the darkroom thanks thanks thanks appreciate your thoughts re blood shot eyes this was shot in the middle of the day with plenty of sleep so i think it actually might be an effect of layering in the tobacco 2 filter pretty much everything got turned a shade of red which looks fairly natural everywhere outside of the white of the eye and the pupil more experimenting to come if the backdrop ending above her head is the issue pay someone 510 to photoshop it cleanly if youre not great with photoshop like me i think fixing that crop would make a huge difference imo love the shot though regardless reminds of the dirt album cover from alice in chains removed are you this looks so good i love it to crop or not to crop that is the question i like the shot colours and doesnt look overly processed which is refreshing thats the first thing i noticed awesome shot i know its not the intention but im choosing to believe shes baking super hard or she was trying to make fried chicken and the battering process got really out of hand interesting way of seeing it i dig the creative perspective thanks thanks superb work thank you picked up this old soviet rangefinder for pretty cheap at an antique store and this was my test roll honestly im just happy that it mostly works for the price i just got these back and theres a white line in the same spot on all of the photos when advancing the film the shutter curtains seem to start further apart and then close over each other sorry i dont know how else to explain it it can be seen here in this clip could this be the issue or something else edit i should mention that i have tried shining a light through from the front with the lens and back off and did see a leak through the seam in the curtains so im guessing this is it i dont know that im ready to invest a lot of in this camera so would advancing the film with a lens cap on solve this the curtains overlapping more as you wind is not the same problem as you can see in your photos most of them are even across the frame although the last one with the bridge might have been at a very high shutter speed showing the right side darker than the left that marking is from a leak at the the hinge on the back door next to the take up spool that is why it lines up on the frame there this is a common problem with all the cameras that use felt or foam door seals there is a little felt strip on each side of the back door the one on the take up spool side is not connecting enough to the camera back and light is leaking in shining on the film since the exposure is super long whenever the camera is out the leak can be extremely weak and still be a problem if you replace this with a thin strip of foam or some kind of replacement felt it should go away thanks for your help that would make sense in this case the whole back of the camera slides off theres no hinges or foam but it definitely seems possible that light could be entering there just to clarify is the seam area where the back slides on where the door hinge would be where you think its coming from heres a couple of pics the first one with the circled area is the seam on the take up spool side you can see in the second pic that the case covers the seams but it seems totally possible light would still be able to get through edit one more with the back pulled partially down yes that is it i could be wrong but almost every time it is that seam i forgot you are talking about a fed with the leica iii style door light could still leak down in past the case since the exposure is so long basically like a pinhole camera a bit inconvenient and holga but you could put a small strip of electrical tape over that edge when you shoot your next roll then if the problem disappears youll know for sure what is going on thanks i think ill give the tape a shot at least its inexpensive and ill know if thats the problem shot on yashicamat24 medium format something about this shot immediately made me hear tom waits music in my head thats good thing beautiful just followed your instagram i love your stuff bro thank you i appreciate it removed where can i find you on ig would love to follow you as well removed removed removed a lot of nice colors there i like how at first glance they are muted but at second glance they seem to glow i believe i pushed this one to 400 one of those shots i didnt know would come out looking decent thank you i took the sane picture last week nice one beautiful colors and composition great job excellent wonderful capture gold was the perfect film for this scenery looks amazing beautifully framed for fun i would have named it blue hat thanks awesome picture makes me relive memories based on locations loved it 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deleted | my question is how did you get the white square in there without leaving any trace done in photoshop deleted deleted thank you so much removed cool now do it slower lindo agree if it were twice as slow at least you could appreciate the shots much more little faster please are you on ig i need to follow you could you put up these shots in just a collage they look stunning and i want to appreciate them hes barnabyboulton agree these guys fuck beautiful shots could you repost them in a slideshow so we can really appreciate them though whats anyone on a photography forum meant to take away from such a fast slide show beyond huh i think i saw a bunch of bikinis maybe all these pictures look the same is there anything in brazil there well taken photos and beautiful images i would like to take more time to look at the shots some of the pictures where taken in portugal right heres a slower version alternatively most of these photos end up on my instagram barnabyboulton if youre interested i absolutely love my autocord this was from my first roll having recently acquired it i am very impressed so far amazing tones here honestly great edit thank you im glad you like it i havent been shooting in awhile but the tones almost looked more like trix when i first saw it which isnt a bad thing but a preference i prefer i suppose good on ya i enjoy doing the same same film same scanner and nearly same camera 35sp too funny its fun to have this much of the process in your own hands i wont ever have the ability to analog print at home but this is close enough to get me to the images i want to have printed and then turn those over to a local professional what filter did you use pro mist forgot if 18 or 14 love the reflection thanks i do too snapped this pretty quick when i walked by didnt catch it at first |
film prices are already at an all time high with the increasing popularity of this medium will this deter current or potential film photographers going forward how will it impact you how will you adapt | looks like im gonna be shooting exclusively in black and white this year anything in particular ilford budget stuff probably hp5 kentmere or if im feeling spicy delta 400 others though perhaps shanghai gp3 if you can get it is like 5 per roll if not those then perhaps expired tmax 100 ilford a solid shout tbf will expired roll go up in price too if you only had to shoot 1 bw stock what would it be i hope not but well see hopefully the recently expired discount will put it down to pre last years price and honestly delta 100 ive somehow shot more rolls of that than anything else i accumulated like 12 rolls at one point while buying job lots including specific other films how about you if its bw then it depends if shooting portraits then its a tough call between delta or hp5 depends on the mood im going having said that hp5 if had only one choice ilford used to make colour film long way back i think would be good to see them foray in that direction again pretty sure prices are not at an all time high in comparison to when my question is where is the 17 coming from is it on the wholesale or the retail price if its a 17 spike on the wholesale then it might only feel like a 5 on the retail due to markups i dont have access to wholesale film costs but im assuming rolls would be 1314 the cost to a consumer if youre a retailer in comparison to the past when accounting for inflation prices were as high or higher mid 2000s film prices were historically low kodaks reasoning for the price increase is that theyre trying to ramp up production to meet demand the problem theyre going to run into is they increased prices about the same percentage last year for the same reason goodwill runs dry and if they dont show something for it a new emulsion return of old popular stocks budget stocks anything really that goodwill will be done orwo and adox have publicly working on color emulsions for a minute now and while theyre much smaller if they get their stocks out and theyre easily accessible for photographers they will eat away at kodaks monopoly that loss of goodwill would go a long way towards bolstering any company that puts out a color emulsion that isnt just a repackage kodak has been relying too heavily on its monopoly on the color film market and if they dont give something to consumers to make it worth it theyll be seeing the writing on the wall when other companies come calling i will probably end up shooting lots of black and white like many others here but i really feel these price hikes are a growing pain of an industry coming back to life kodak has recently hired 300 new employees for production i believe and i feel this is a good sign that money is being reinvested into the field i think that combined with pentaxs announcement about developing new film cameras its only a matter of time before the prices will level out pretty well fair play thank you for the detailed feedback looking forward to seeing these new emulsions then any idea of what they will be gonna try to buy more cinestill bwxx while its still 10 i dont shoot kodak so i dont care color film is a dying medium for most users it seems to me kodak makes great film everyone knows this adjusting for inflation along with everything else in this economy its not a surprise this wont deter people from wanting a reliable beautiful and consistent film time to shoot kentmere why are you getting downvoted there were a bunch of recent articles that went through film prices over the last century and youre absolutely correct of course everyone wants whatever thing they want to be cheaper i want my golden kiwis to be less than 6 a package just because they want to spend less but people just love to sensationalize random but normal occurrences i figured it was just that my comment did not fit the current narrative of outrage at film prices or hating on color analog photography im no fam of the price increases since my favorite films are color seems like you might be in a bit of a bubble one word fomapan i have a about 10 rolls each of kentmere pan 100 and 400 plus a 100 bulk roll of hp5 laid down in the freezer and a small selection of other random rolls of colour film in the fridge itll be a little while before i have to worry about kodak price increases and maybe things will settle out by then i will adapt by continuing to shoot bw and fuji slide same as always another 100ft roll of arista edu stop buying from that shit company buy more film stocks by rollei and foma only companies producing film stocks at a reasonable price and their stocks are way better than tri x hang on to my few rolls of ultramax and portra 400 and limit use strictly for special occasions no more keeping the camera in the car for regular days out to get random snaps for memories i guess thats what my phone will take care of noticed any difference between this and the delta range ive been shooting film exclusively for about 12 years but stopped buying it last year due to price increase i bought a second hand fuji xt2 and i am just as happy with it with age im concentring on the photographs not the just the medium and a digital camera is a great tool that can also give you filmlike images if thats what youre looking for and now im saving so much money which is not bad either how do you find the film emulation is it like for like better worse have you tried any phone app film emulators thats quite specific any particular draw on the fuji slide 5 a roll a good shout probably another 12 years before it eases off might be a different landscape of films available then too when in rome fair play kentmere is goated imo learn something new everyday kodak has a d credit rating making it impossible to raise debt and the stock is worthless essentially theyre trying to raise money to increase production and meet demand so that there are no droughts again also in the midst of high inflation and supply chain problems very difficult business climate and im surprised its only 17 film is a niche luxury product now and they can and should charge like it so that they can continue to survive and we can continue to have great films i have not reason for shooting film is to add the negs to our family collection thats been on the go since the 50s dont get me wrong i do love the whole operation and concept of taking a picture with chemistry and how it looks but i like film for the tradition and being able to have a tote of pictures that can be rediscovered one day inflation may start to ease over the next year or two but its safe to say that kodak are essentially making a luxury item leica started producing m6s again and pentax are looking for a come back so i guess its safe to say watch this space fair play similar to analog records it will be a relatively tiny but significant sustained resurgence in the hobby space where prices will always be higher and volume will be lower but if thats what it takes to keep film around as an option im here for it in the same vein you can now buy brand new record players and brand new records but for most people even the enthusiasts it will not be the primary way of consuming music the best color film available true that how why slide film has more vibrant colors than print film true that careful pointing out that film used to be much more expensive and was artificially low in cost folks dont take too kindly to that around here i plan on shifting my household budget to meet that increase and i plan on shooting 17 less photos and putting more thought and effort into the ones i do shoot i like kodak and i like their products and will make it work in my country they sell rolled kodak vision 3 for 67 a roll and all labs develop it in c41 after remjet removal the result is like a very slight push and quality is fantastic same tech as portra much better than cinestill since the remjet is removed after use so there are no halos thats pretty good value some like the halation effect though about 40 in a couple of years isnt just adjusting for inflation is the source kosmo foto i dont doubt kodak will increase but i am a bit skeptical of articles that make a claim and only site we have learned without stating how or where theyve gathered the info i wont be impacted i have film in my freezer for the next couple of years i might buy some before the price goes up because it wont be coming down during the past year or two shortages of color film have shown there is quite a bit of demand and price elasticity kodak is doing whats right for them id recommend to others to do bw film and process it yourself sounds reasonable sage advice thank you have been using nothing but bw for a long time now have a large stock of kodak trix thatll ill work through have been increasingly more deliberate with every shutter release may dabble less in color than i planned but the bw will only increase as i complete three works in progress and begin new ones i mean id that means itll be more readily available then that would actually save me money so im okay with it film is just way too hard to get a hold of so i end up paying a ton more for second hand stock up and get more focused with your own photography good advice fair play is that the actual math ah you know what i havent really done a side by side but from what ive seen of kentmere it looks really great just enough contrast and grain sounds good might need to do a little test its worse in some specific ways a 5 pack of portra 400 was 45 just a couple of years ago and its like 80 now nearly double was loving nicknamed cuntmere at my art school for how bad it was whaaat kentmere my beloved bulk bulk bulk has anybody done the updated math on cost of trichrome vs cost of colour film yet lmao it must be getting close ignoring all the up front costs true thats because kodak was giving the stuff away to try keep alaris operational now theres demand theyre gonna try make money of it haha yes i might abandon ship and shoot digital only it was good while analog photography lasted well perhaps the fuji xt range might be an option with all its film emulators love the shadows and light on this one thats fucking spot on what flash are you using for this i love these so much i used to live in this exact area and moved out during spring i was really sad i didnt get to see the snow there this winter thank you glad you liked it man these shots are soooo good makes me nostalgic even though i still live here just picked up a rollei 35 myself yesterday your shots make me so hyped to put it to action thanks mate thats lovely wish you a good time shooting wow this is a really good composition love the people in silhouette thanks made a mistake in the title and cant edit this was actually shot on kodak p3200 this is extraordinarily well done thanks a lot |
feeling stupid just came back from a trip was so excited to develop the rolls i shot with one roll left to extract from my nikon f3 it slowly dawns on me upon rolling that i miiight have not loaded properly is there any way to tell without exposing the whole roll i rolled the leader in as well but it has been retrieved edit im an idiot | no process it and see if anything comes out i always snug up the rewind lever and then i watch the rewind knob to see that it rotates while the camera winds to the next frame watched a ton of videos and this seemed like the best tell live and learn i guess if you develop yourself you can do clip developing that is in complete darkness cut off the first 30 cm or so and develop them if it is exposed you can develop the rest and only l lose one frame where you cut if it is unexposed you can shoot the rest as 24exp or so i was also thinking this had to be an alternative though i have access to a darkroom on campus they only have the chemistry to develop black and white but thank you for affirming my assumption |
use this thread to ask any and all questions about analog cameras film darkroom processing printing technique and anything else film photography related that you dont think deserve a post of their own this is your chance to ask a question you were afraid to ask before a new thread is created every monday to see the previous community threads see here please remember to check the wiki first to see if it covers your question | please consider checking out our sister subreddit ranalogcommunity for more discussion based posts our global list of film labs can be found here if you are looking for somewhere to develop your film guides on the basics of film photography can be found here including scanning what would be the different use cases for 1 5 and 10 spot meters can they be useful for portraits or is it mostly for landscapes where one cant get an incident light reading i believe theyre the same use case a 1 degree being preferred and the others are a cost compromise where they may be fine depending on the field of view angle just for example landscape with a wide lens 5 vs 1 is probably not going to matter i often just go with incident but same location with different framing through a 600mm and id want 1 because a 5 metering exceeds the size of the field of view angle my girlfriend wants to scrapbook for the year with wallet size pictures but was interested in a film camera neither of us are really big on photography so my question is if they can be developed in wallet size pictures as that is what shes looking for googling didnt really give me an answer thanks checkout instax mini cameras and film you can get prints of any size from digital scans of film but there might be a better option the instax mini cameras shoot instant film thats almost the same size as a credit card very walletsized and its such a popular format that you can get frames and albums for the pictures on amazon the cameras are also largely pointandshoot so great if youre a beginner to film also even though theres a color film shortage instax mini film is still fairly available can i get a recommendation on where to buy lenses for my minolta x700 also maybe a price range i should expect for a decent but still amateur lens im not sure which prices would be fair for something like this thanks to those who dont have a local film developer and is living in a far away town do you just send your films away via post is it safe i use postin labs all the time even when i have local options never had a problem back in the day they were super popular hey im looking at trying out film photography and im wondering what would be a good camera to get as a sort of introduction ive already got an olympus om10 but id have to get it looked at by a shop is it worth taking it in or are there better options on the used market id be pretty much exclusively be shooting naturelandscapemacromaybe if that would make a difference with film types thanks hi everyone i have a question about film camera my cameras wind lever is loosened but its still doing all the job and the film is advancing smoothly but its not resetting automatically so after its pushed to the end i have to reset it manually so the question is does this means my camera needs cla or something is broken and should i adjust it asap to avoid further problems or i can leave it like that and it wont cause further damage to the honest it doesnt bother me a lot as long as its not a sign that something inside is broken thank you guys om10 is a great camera is there something specifically wrong with it that needs repair there are a few common repairs on those that are pretty easy to do yourself you wont need it for most general shooting but you should know that theres a manual adapter available that plugs into the front and gives you shutter speed control that could be good for learning since you can experiment more directly with shutter speed to get a feel for what it does youre basically between ebay and whatever your local classifieds service is fb marketplace craigslist kijiji gumtree etc you can look at sold listings on ebay to get a sense of what things go for price will depend on the lens of course nothing wrong with it that i can tell but i got it a a yard sale years back and it hadnt been touched since it was bought new lol still has the sales receipt and everything in the bag id just be getting it cleaned and whatnot and yes i was wondering what that little piece is edit also some of the lenses are a little scratched up so id want to see if those could be fixed makes me worry about the state of the mirror or whatevers in the camera itsself if thats the case then i would just go for it get a cheap roll of film and have a good time just make sure you have good batteries in there you can quickly test it out with no film make sure the light meter works set the dial around the rewind crank to on and you should see a little indicator led inside the viewfinder to tell you the shutter speed by pointing it at different lighting conditions and seeing if the number moves then take a couple test shots and see if the sound of the shutter changes with the light you may want to check out the light seals theyre probably all gone thats the foam around the rear door that stops light leaks from happening pretty easy to replace yourself i wouldnt necessarily rule out getting it fixed up at a shop but i would definitely prioritize just shooting a roll alright sounds good fella also while were here one question is there supposed to be a piece of foam between the film and the opening to the aperture are you maybe seeing the shutter curtain thats what opens and shuts to produce proper exposures it should look like this so if youre seeing something different then there might be an issue if you leave the back open and wind the advancefire the shutter you should see the shutter cock and then openclose do this inside with the fstop somewhere small like f16 or whatever your lens goes to and it should stay open for some time yep thats it thanks as you can see i am very much unfamiliar with film cameras haha any 35mm film recommendations ive seen gold 200 for a reasonable price hello i am new to film photography and got a kodak ektar h35 as my first film camera i wanted to buy the kodak gold 200 and kodak colorplus 200 but both were out of stock so i was wondering if using a remjet film would be okay for the camera any thoughts whatever colour film is cheap youre gonna take a bunch of lousy pictures and thats totally ok but it definitely means its not worth using portra as your first ever roll of film i would suggest reading through the manual of your camera as it will tell you everything you need to know in order to get shooting if you are familiar with digital cameras then youre in a good place because basically everything you know is transferrable if not dont be too focused on filmspecific resources unless its truly a filmonly topic like how to load film or something the basics of exposure lenses composition etc all transfer between film and digital just fine thank you so much v kind of a good idea to mention the camera youre asking about someone may have specific experience with it well you can get an incident reading for a landscape if youre standing under the same light she sun and sky are pretty big an incident meter is telling you how much light is hitting the subject vs how much light is reflecting off of it spot meters are most popular for zone system bw work you take a shadow reading and decide where to place the shadows do you want them really detailed and bright or darker then you figure out your base exposure the exposure youll actually shoot with usually 23 stops over the shadow reading if shadows meter at f28 your exposure might be f56 or 8 then you take a reading where you want to hold texture in the highlights if the highlight reading is more than 3 stops or so beyond your actual exposure it will be hard to maintain texture like fine details of clouds so you make a note to reduce development with e6 film a spot meter can help you know if highlights will be out of range and blown out a big part of spot metering is understanding the dynamic range of the scene and if elements you want to have printable will be inrange with color films you dont have a lot of leeway for development changes to control highlights before color casts come into play and c41 is fairly forgiving for highlight rolloff often with c41 and widetonal range scenes its better to bracket a couple exposures though if you dont have an eye for scene range vs c41 a spot meter could help you understand if the shot you envision is even possible like a backlit subject where you want to also hang onto the sky behind the subject a spot meter that works with flashstrobes can be really handy for studio shooting its fine for the camera but may screw up when the film gets developed if the remjet isnt removed first anyone an expert with shooting ilford hp5 plus 35mm any tips for shooting with this stock theres not really expertise for most bw film stocks until you get into some specialty films success comes down to understanding why we say expose for the shadowsdevelop for the highlights testing any bw film developer combination to find how it performs on your specific final output scanning or enlarger printing and what type of enlarger or scanner understanding how to dial in negatives so you get the shadow detail and highlight texture you desire in your final output understanding theres no correct iso or developing time its personalized and when you dial it in to what you want you get better results understanding how roll films are a development compromise and how to deal with it ie you cant develop for specific scenes or images like you can with sheet film understanding that we have far more control of contrast in printing or post than we have in exposure and development get a full range of tones on the neg and then set the contrast you want in your final output if youre developing yourself and printingscanning yourself you have a lot of control and you can test specifically or dial in your negs over time if youre using a lab its a good idea to bracket some exposures and see how the scans look if you find giving the film more light ie rating it at 200 vs 400 gives you great shadows but blown highs you may want to rate a roll at 200 and ask the lab to pull development a half stop or more people are gonna say push it to 800 for the contrast man or whatever but they rarely show an example of how thats worked and what you want may be very different the idea of easy to printscan negs is subjective we see a lot of i push film for the contrast and to my eye it often looks terrible with big blobs of black where some detail or texture would be nice so over time developing an idea of how contrast and tonality affects a composition and the viewers eye is a good goal thank you this is great some reputable places to buy from in the us that offer warranties keh camera used photo pro thank you be sure to read the condition of the lens used photo pro shows photos of the actual item for sale keh doesnt on its web site but they have a store on ebay that does you may want to look on ebay for the item for sale by keh and then purchase it from the keh site to save some money thanks for your thanks hi random question but in doing some research i have noticed that all the best film developing shops use digital scanners that are seemingly outdated fujifilm frontier noritsu etc i understand that with the advent of digital photography and the resulting downturn in film sales many of the larger companies ceased manufacturing new machines so my question is are there any industrial digital scanners that achieve the same quality as the older machines currently being manufactured in 2023 remjet wont make a difference to the camera but it will for developing it requires a special process that most labs wont do stick to colour film thats c 41 process or try black and white 1 if on a sunnyharsh and well defined shadows day consider shooting at 200250 and reducing development accordingly this is general to all 400 speed films 2 i dont like acutance developers rodinal fx1 beutler for films over 125 speed in 35mm grain starts to be obtrusive full strength d76id68 or ddx have worked well for me otherwise its a veery good 400 film and it does what it claims in the box thank you usa based i send most my film used to use usps but they lost 4 of my rolls from a mexico trip now use ups and have never had an issue i dont know much about scanners but off the top of my head hassleblad make some drum scanners flextight but these were discontinued in 2019 question on lenses on most if not every manual focus lens ive used there are distance marks on the focus ring but whats the reference point the lenses use my assumption would be the film plane but ive had a camera that seemed to match its focus distance to the end of the lens itself i also had a lot of shots that missed focus with said camera so im skeptical about this one the focusing glass was adjustable in this camera so maybe the prior owner made some illinformed adjustments the reference point is the film plane some cameras have a mark on top a circle with a line through it representing where the film plane is i want to start developing my own bw i have a 2 roll patterson tank from a friend and have ordered some d76 developer ilford fixer i have a few questions about tools 1 what size measuring cylinders should i get how accurate do the graduations need to be ie could i just get a kitchen measuring cup at a second hand shop 2 how accurate do temps need to be i have a spare aquarium heater so can keep a bath of water at a reasonably steady temp but i will need to get a thermometer to be more confident with the temp i suspect the aquarium heater dial is not very precise will any thermometer do 3 do i need special chemical bottles for storing stuff i have an bunch of tinted glass bottles around that are reasonably opaque if i keep them in a dark area will that be fine what sizes are useful i am a total diy film photographer who took up the hobby a couple of years ago i feel like i have hit a plateau and i dont know what tools resources i should turn to in order to go to the next level i shoot on an minolta x700 usually with cinestill 800t or portra 400 using aperture priority mode i do a ton of concert photography but would like to do more candid portraits and documentaryesque candids for example here is a pic from the most recent roll i developed this represents what the majority of my pictures look like i believe this was taken on portra 800 pushed to 1600 its obviously lowlight which is more challenging but this post uses the same camera same film but feels so much more interesting and sharp especially around the body of the subject ive taken some lowlight pics i like but its rare and even my best stuff lacks clarity and interest should i try a new lens are there online resources i should check out to expand my skills should i shoot in manual mode any help would be appreciated 1 the paterson tank uses 290 ml per roll so the most chemistry youd need to measure is 580 ml larger measuring cups are useful for mixing up chemistry for d76 they dont have to be very accurate since its typically used either straight or at 11 dilution if you use very concentrated developers such as rodinal or hc110 a more accurate graduated cylinder or a syringe is useful for measuring small quantities accurately 2 for bw the chemistry and wash water should all be within a few degrees of each other drastic changes in temperature can cause the film emulsion to wrinkle a defect called reticulation i dont use a water bath for bw unless its very hot and developing times would be very short you will need a reasonably accurate thermometer 3 if you have brown glass bottles they should be fine air is the enemy of developer so make sure caps are tight and seal well size depends on the quantity of chemistry youre mixing up in a batch thanks is it reasonable to assume a thermometer sold by the lab for home developing is going to be good enough my yashica mat 124g fire the wrong shutter speed while on bulb mode all shutter speeds and aperture work just fine except when in bulb mode it fire almost at 1500 which is the wrong speed any ideas why that happen and how to fix it thanks my guess is a worn gear for what its worth heres the repair manual with exploded views there are many many resources available online some are free and some want you to pay for them as noted in this article its not all about the gear an average photographer with an expensive camera wont necessarily take a better photo than an expert with an old manual camera you should concentrate on learning how to use the camera you have although this article is directed towards digital photography theres a lot that applies to any photography for more go to startpage and enter how to become a better photographer without the quote marks speaking from a background of ra4 colour development background which is way more sensitive to temp than bw 1 mine went up in 1ml or 5ml measuments i think a measuring cup will suffice 2 temperature doesnt matter so much in bw in colour the temperature leads to colour shifts in bw i think it just changes the speed of development what you want is repeatability so you want to be able to make the chemicals a certainsame temperature tomorrow next month and next year it could be room temptre or it could be heated its all a accounted for in dev time im pretty sure my thermometer measured in half degrees celcius the more precise the better for repeatability a sous vide wand is the standard for heating just remember if the tank isnt pre warmed then the developer will drop in temp when added a pre headed water wash can help or just keeping the tank in heated water for a couple of mins 3 avoid accordion bottles as they develop holes your main goal is to keep air out of the bottles glass bottles are fine and you can add marlbes to fill in the air space a better solution which i used to use was wine bags i had 5l ones and they have a little one way tap attached you remove the tap add the chemicals reattach the tap squeeze the air and the first bit of chemicals out of the open tap now its air tight dont break and you can have up to 5l chemicals on tap without air getting in the see through ones are better than foil because you can see the air bubbles when filling good photos first of all if you feel like youve reached a plateau then definitely get a new lensfocal length itll definitely be a breath of fresh air id say you shouldnt rely on your meter and definitely learn to shoot in manual mode its a good skill to have if you feel like your photos lack interest then step out of your comfort zone instead of shooting concerts shoot portraits and band pics outside of a concert setting is that creed bratton whats your scanning set up look like fuzziness can definitely be a result of subpar scans the example photo you posted is not candid and doing candid work benefits from the law of large numbers spray and pray obviously its a lot more economical to work that way in digital compared to film i think you should look at resources regarding framing and composition youve got the mechanics of getting a properly exposed shot but its not really telling a story or asking questions of the viewer you might find a photographer than you like and see if theyre leading a 52 frames challenge for the next year thank you its a kodak retina ib i have just been getting back into shooting film after 15 years away i have had 2 rolls of 36 frame fuji provia in my fridge for about that long as well as some rolls of bw is it worth shootingprocessing what size measuring cylinders should i get how accurate do the graduations need to be ie could i just get a kitchen measuring cup at a second hand shop yes and make sure mark a big skullbones in it to mark it was used for darkroom chemicals and not to use it in the kitchen 2 how accurate do temps need to be i have a spare aquarium heater so can keep a bath of water at a reasonably steady temp but i will need to get a thermometer to be more confident with the temp i suspect the aquarium heater dial is not very precise will any thermometer do as long its consistent yes do not use the dial type thermometers as they can be quite off something like this is overkill for your use case and cheap enough for the peace of mind overall development times are bendable to your situation for example most developers specify times for a particular contrast index appropiate for a 7 stop scene using a diffusion enlarger shoot on a sunnycrispy day and use a pure condenser enlarger and youll probably want to lower the contrast index by giving a bit less time paper gradesscurve tool in lightroom adjust minor variances handily do i need special chemical bottles for storing stuff i have an bunch of tinted glass bottles around that are reasonably opaque if i keep them in a dark area will that be fine what sizes are useful theyre fine you only need tinted bottles for the developer stop and fixer are not affected by light 1lquart bottles are good for your 2 roll tank i recommend 1 opaque bottle for developer 1 clearwhatever for stop indicator bath 1 clearwhatever for first fix 1 clearwhatever for 2nd fix 1 clearwhatever for a distilled water final washdunk after your running water film wash in order to clear water marks you can add 20 isopropyl alcohol to that wash in order to speed up drying when youve processed enough films from 8 to 12 promote your 2nd fixer bottle to 1stfix and refill the 2nd fix with fresh fixer some people will say you dont need stop bath and just water works fine i dont do this but to each their own deleted definitely is provia is super expensive these days so throwing it out would be foolish cold stored film lasts alot longer if it expires and you could get some cool results otherwise ill take it off your hands did anyone succeed with xray film pinhole i just get fogged film it is about 40 ei i think youre right and i was wrong its velvia 100 i checked the date code and its from 2003 ill post to this forum when i shoot it hard to believe the price on this stuff now its all i used to shoot but after this i cant see buying it at this price i dont think theres anything like it or provia screw that if youre in the us get a thermopop the 12 sale just ended but at 21 theyre still a killer deal same speed and accuracy of the bigger thermopens but simple and basic all you need if you prefer a wired probe get a dot they also make a bluetooth dot interesting there is a lot of good stuff here thanks yes this is not candid this is an example of what i traditionally shoot now but i want to move more into doing candidtype stuff ill search some online classes and youtube lessons on framing and composition i think that is a good call for sure do you have any resources you like ive never heard of the 52 frames challenge that sounds pretty cool ill look into that too haha yeah he opened for this weird quirky indie band that i love he was in a big rock band in the 70s so he played some acoustic versions of those songs and told stories about his life and career between each song it was really cool do you want to see a foot with four toes i really liked rphotoclass2021 they do it every year so it should be starting up for 2023 soon a fair bit is the basics of exposure and also how editing works but there were several good postslectures on composition thanks i appreciate that i am looking into new lenses i only have the lenses that came with the camera when i bought it i am still learning about lenses and still get confused by the difference between lenses and what all the numbers mean from what i gather i have two prime lenses that are very similar and two zoom lenses that are very similar i almost exclusively shoot with a minolta 45mm f2 or minolta 55mm f17 i rarely use the zoom lenses but i have a sigma 28 84mm 35 45 macro and a minolta 2870mm 35 48 macro any recommendations of affordable lenses i should be on the lookout for your last two points are well taken i get very nervous stepping out of my comfort zone as a photographer i even feel awkward bringing my camera places its why i havent moved into more portrait photography its something i want to work on ill also practice shooting manual and see what i can learn what i have never really understood is how to determine light without my meter and how to adjust with digital i can see the result in the screen and change settings as needed with film do i basically just guess what settings to use then develop the roll and make adjustments next time also i have a local spot scan my photos they are a cool boutique film shop not a drugstore or something i bought a scanner but i could never get results i liked i feel like it was a waste of money if you have any tips on how to improve that i would be interested in trying my scanner again thanks ill check em out maybe this is too broad but any times on getting over that awkward feeling of being intrusive when taking pictures in a public place i shoot mostly concerts because music is a passion of mine but also because i feel okay bringing a camera to a concert and shooting shots from the crowd i would love to do more portraits and candids but when i come across someone doing something interesting i dont want to ask them if i can take a picture of them and i also dont want to take a picture without their consent thanks thanks yeah the thermometer my local lab sells is the patterson color thermometer i assume given the brand and my lab selling it it should suffice for most things and thank you re bottles thats good to know i have an amber bottle that looks like it was a chemical bottle once but also not confident how well it seals out oxygen i could use an old bail top bottle also i read really differing things on whether one needs stop bath the wiki here says water is fine and whether one needs distilled water for final wash and whether one needs some kind of hypo to prevent drying marks i guess you prefer to use a commercial stop and distilled water eh also do you use a special chemical stirrer i was just going to use some long handled spoon or something from the second hand shop thanks for not assuming i was in the us im not what makes these a better thermometer are they more accurate or simply that its easier to read my family got me a ton of film for christmas but they put it on their checked bags when they traveled here is it even worth using if it was put onto a checked bag at the airport its all black and white 35mm film any advice on what camera to buy i have had a look at a couple of articles and things but would be interested to know other opinions too i am looking for a film camera which is compacteasy to carry around will fit in a small ish bag no more than 200 pounds if thats feasible easy to use has manual features so i can learn about aperture etc would be plus if it also has an automatic setting too if thats possible im very new to film photography so i dont have a particular niche eg landscapes im just planning to use this for everything really and bring it around with me hey im currently using a canon ae1 with a 50mm lens im looking to purchase a lens with a bit more zoom but dont know what to be looking for anybody got some recommendations i could check out cheers yeah the thermopop and the awesome red led safelights are maybe more northamerica mail order stuff so i try to not get folks too excited thermoworks has kinda owned the market for cooking thermometers with the big thermopen for pro chefs and serious home cooks but it has all kinds of presets and alarms vs heres the temperature dummy but theyre known for accuracy build quality and veryfast readings so with the thermopop you get all their tech in a very simple unit that does one thing exceptionally well also great service i broke the battery door on mine and had a new one for free in a couple days and in late november they had a 12 sale on the things i get them as stocking stuffers for the cooks i know and my kids all have them ive used some cheap amazon wiredprobe thermometers but they eventually go south for some alt processes a probe is really necessary like keeping a tray of chems at a constant temp or melting photo emulsion ive had a bluetooth dot for years now and its been solid the wife and i are pretty serious cooks and i grillsmoke a lot the thermopop in our kitchen is used daily and has been staunch for 5 years havent even changed the battery yet topflight stuff yeah the thermometer my local lab sells is the patterson color thermometer perfectly adequate but also not confident how well it seals out oxygen i could use an old bail top bottle not need to be a vacuum seal air will not circulate with most tops i used many times old soda bottles with a twist top and they were fine stored in a dark cupboard again mark them with a skull and bones to make sure people dont reuse them for other stuff also i read really differing things on whether one needs stop bath the wiki here says water is fine and whether one needs distilled water for final wash and whether one needs some kind of hypo to prevent drying marks i guess you prefer to use a commercial stop and distilled water eh thats mostly personal preferences i learnt using a stop bath and have been doing it for decades so not using it is a risk in my workflow i know some people dont use it and may be fine for them and you you dont need distilled water for final wash the other standard way is to use a surfactantwash aid and normal water i know ive had marks using that and never had marks when using my 15 alcoholdistilled water wash so thats what i use change the wash every 812 films and youll be fine again personal preference you can use hypo clearing agent to reduce washing times i live in ireland and water is free here so i typically dont use it what is not personal preference and will help immensely with having archival negatives is to use a double fixing bath fix your negs half of the time in the first fix the other half in the second fix this will make for better fixing also do you use a special chemical stirrer paterson also sells some stirrers which i have but any long spoon will work do not mix the solution by shaking the containerbottle as this will introduce oxygen in the water its best to mix it the day before using let it rest and give a final twirl with the spoon they day after do not reuse the spoon in the kitchen awesome take a look at a canonet ql17 oof im sorry that film is toasted you want to look for fd lenses this is the mount your camera uses depending on how much zoom you want consider an 85mm 105mm 135mm or even 200mm lens id recommend looking at pentax or olympuss line of cameras both have reasonably small and lightweight models as well as either being fully manual or coming with auto modes get one with a 50mm 35mm or 28mm lens these are fairly standard focal lengths for general shooting only one way to find out shoot a test roll and get it developed and when you do make sure you post the results back here plenty of people ask a similar worried question like this but never come back to say how it went i asked my film developer and he said it should be fine if its 100400 speed he also recommended shooting a tester and bringing it back to see if its all ruined since i have like 10 containers that all went through xray but he said from his experience its usually fine i will update in this reddit when i shoot a tester and get it developed i agree shoot a tester and develop it from what ive heard its usually fine with medium and slow speed film for carry on bags but much more secure if its checked luggage interested to see the results i have a vivitar 100200mm f4 i dont use it a ton but it hasnt let me down bonus you can get a teleconverter for it that does some cool stuff too the canon a series particularly the a1 it can do aperture and shutter speed automatically but you can also do either or both manually you can let the camera do as much or as little of the work as you like just make sure the internal light meter is accurate and youre good to go i have taken a camera with me to loads of places and only been bothered about it once with people in the shot you kinda get into the whole ethics of photojournalism thing theres no clear cut answer but do some reading on specifically how photojournalists do their work ethically and thatll get you rolling got an ae 1 for christmas and subsequently bought a basic kodak film scanner i am aware the quality of these are not the best or comparable to lab developed with that being said im not sure if it was worth the 200 price tag i like the idea of being able to preview my shots without the need to send the whole roll off get a whole stack of prints just to end up with a few keepers im at the point now where i have a drawer full of them do you think its worth it to be able to preview and decide what i do and dont want lab developed cut them myself and drop off the keepers im sure i can choose to get a digital file rather than all prints and go from there but do you think the price difference would be worth it over dropping off the only shots i want lab developed i plan on shooting a lot for reference i have ran through 4 rolls in the last two weeks another concern i have is damaging the film while scanning them myself exposing it to light and improper storage as i am a beginner and need to learn all the dos and dont when handling undeveloped film thanks in advance for any and all advice apologies if im off base here but this sounds as if you have fundamentally misunderstood how film works film is light sensitive it has to be in order to register an image it remains light sensitive until it has been chemically processed either by a lab or by a home process involving a lightsealed tank and various chemicals and any exposure to light before this happens will completely expose the film and destroy any images on it no images will be visible on the film until it has been processed in this way the scanner you have bought does not chemically develop the film it is designed to take already developed film and scan it to produce a digital file which it does by shining light through the film if you take the film directly from the camera and put it in the scanner you will completely ruin the film in short do not expose your film to any amount of light no matter how small until you have either taken it to a lab to be processed or done so yourself using a changing bag lightproof tank and chemicals i suggest the former once the film has been processed only then can you use your scanner whats a good ps for taking selfies at arms length but also captures other great photos what should i be looking for when i want a camera like this any people experience a green tint on photos taken with cinestill 400d ive been shooting velvia that old and older thats been frozen with great results id shoot one roll and see how it turns out but id expect it to be fine note that if its velvia 100f you may have some trouble getting it developed 100f was discontinued due to epa banning some component and ive seen a few posts that some labs refuse to develop it since i develop at home so no issue for me well duh that goes to show how much of a noob i am i should have figured considering the basic fundamentals of film is capturing light thats the missing step causing most of my confusion would you say it would be worth investing in an at home kit and is there a big difference in quality versus a lab im looking for enough quality to have the option to make prints bigger than your average 5x7 if i have to take them to a lab to be chemically processed i might as well have them develop the film to a digital file at the least i tried to look up the former you suggested with not many results i will add i am very interested in playing with learning and enjoying the process thank you for taking the time to respond and answer my questions you might want to read this recent discussion on the merits of home devscanning vs using a lab just to clarify some terminology here processingdeveloping refers to the chemical process that transforms the film into a negative or a positive if youre using slide film image at this stage it is still held on the film strip itself but the process renders it transparent and makes the latent image visible and stable if were being picky developing refers to just the first part of the process but the terms are often used interchangeably scanning refers to taking this nowtransparent film strip and making a digital image from it if were talking about colour film here the developingprocessing part is standardised as long as you follow the process correctly you should end up with the same results as a lab does scanning depends very much on the equipment used some get reasonable results at home using a digital camera to photograph the developed film cheap scanners like the one you purchased tend not to give very good result labs good ones at least use rather expensive and complicated scanners to produce highquality digital images personally i would suggest you have a lab process your film for now at least until you have a better idea what youre doing you could choose to then scan them yourself at home you can always have a lab rescan them later it might be simpler and not much more expensive to have the lab do this too though and the results should be a lot better its no longer very common to have an entire roll turned into prints edit to add youll find some useful info in the sidebar of this sub including a list of labs not sure where youre based but hopefully itll help you find somewhere colorperfect help needed often i find that colorperfect gets thrown by a particularly dark or particularly light area in a photo or a dominant colour somewhere in frame and just messes up really bad in its pursuit of balance the obvious solution would be to crop into a good area do colorperfect and then uncrop but colorperfect sees the pixels beyond the cropped area unless you click delete cropped pixels while cropping and that of course means they cant be destroyed later has anyone found a solution to have colorperfect ignore a region of the photo focal length the standard is usually 35mm lenses the smaller the number the wider the field of view maybe a 28mm might be better for arms length selfies also consider th minimum focus distance of the camera so your main concern here is focal length you will need something pretty wide as a reference if memory serves correct the main camera on most iphones is equivalent to around 26mm the front facing selfie camera is even wider something like 2324mm i think i think you will be hard pressed to find a point and shoot much wider than 28mm the other important thing is minimum focus distance if your arm is shorter than the minimum focus distance then your face will always be out of focus the best way to buy point and shoots is see whats cheap and locally available so check your local thrift stores or classifieds and see what fits the bill most people actually like having their photo taken and if they dont then theyre usually polite about it if youre going for candid shots what i normally do is focus on something at a similar distance then sneakily take the photopretend to be looking at something else cinema film is known to require a bit of extra attention in post should be correctable it could be that xray wavelengths are 1 too small to be focused by a pinhole 10 nanometers you may need a lens or smaller pinhole 2 penetrating the body of your camera making the pinhole moot you may need to line your camera with lead best guesses i just received a nikon coolscan ived from ebay the scans look terrible it seems like the darks are bleeding into the surrounding areas in my scans the scanner software tells me theres a hardware issue every time i start up nikon scan the ebay seller stopped responding so im probably boned do you guys think cleaning the mirror would be worthwhile i can take it a apart and give it a shot the alternative is the dumpster thanks in advance leica m42 usersleica users in general how likelypossible is it for your camera to have a light leak ive read that leicas dont even have foam in the bodies so is it just that lighttight of a box assuming it hasnt been banged up in any serious way cool thanks for the recommendation i asked my lab if they knew where i could dispose of chemistry locally starting to try my hand at bw they said down the toilet that seems wildly irresponsible and outdated no xray film is exposed by screen luminance basically a contact sheet xray exposure will take cery long time or high power will be required like in scanners thats why its titled blue or red sensitive screen emits photons of named wavelength probably the cardboard box leaks somewhere used photo chemicals are safe to pour down the drain you shouldnt drink them or get them in your eyes but the same can be said for dishwasher detergent theyre not especially hazardous nikon f5 just got one is there any way to unlock the max 8 fps without the mn30 battery pack i thought i read there was a way to trick it into think that pack was installed but not sure i have lithium aas in it really i have always read that some parts eg silver from film is not environmentally safe its controversial and riddled with misinformation and people will argue about it here all day municipal regulations are based on businesslevel quantities like the amount labs did before digital they also have blanket bans on heavy metals and chemicals because you cant write regs to cover every use and hobbyists vs factories if you have a septic tank research what can go in if you have municipal water with a treatment plant it can handle all the basic chems youd dispose of including used fixer if youre still paranoid about fixer you can leach the silver out with steel wool then throw away the black sludge where it will go to a landfill and leach into ground water without being treated you can pour all your chems in a bucket cover it with a screen to keep wildlifepets out and store it in a garage or shed and let it evaporate then when you decide to haul your chems to the toxicwaste place you can take a quart instead of gallons the virtuesignalers may start replying but if youre really serious about municipal water treatment stop overfertilizing your lawn spotclean vs sending things to the dry cleaner use green detergents and soaps theres tons of things you can do that actually make a difference especially if you can get your community to adopt them definitely dont pour it down your storm drain for that reason but your local water treatment plant will have no trouble dealing with it thankfully your plumbing does not return directly to the seagroundwater thank you yeah its definitely a conversation loaded with politics emotions and philosophy obviously i understand that in the low quantities im doing my effect is essentially nil as is my personal attempts to lower my use of single use plastic use less petrol etc and i do do all those latter things an interest in minimising agricultural pollution is how i found my day job terminology a zoom lens has a variable focal length like common 70mm 200mm cheapconsumer ones will get a smaller aperture the further out you zoom so less light at 200mm than 70mm more prolevel glass will have a constant aperture regardless of zoom range usually f28 or f4 for your era a telephoto lens is generally a longer focal length a fixedfocal length lens is called a prime lens like your 50mm so you have to decide on a longer prime lens a consumer zoom or a higherend zoom if one is made for your mount some consumer zooms are good performers some are junk for primes youre stuck with what was available but 85mm is a classic portrait length and there should be primes in the range of 60mm135mm for that era of canon mount aftermarket companies tamron vivitar etc often rebranded sears jcpenney wards etc made lenses for the ae series cameras some are junk some are decent but its hard to trust reviews for consumerhobbyistaftermarket glass everyone that owns one will say its sharp as a tack those buyers arent often the most critical users out there test test test hah your municipal sewage may be better than ours ours regularly overflows leaks etc and untreated sewage ends up in the ocean at least once a year because of the incompetence of our system obviously in this context my tiny input isnt really the problem theres too many to count really if you want an interchangeable lens camera nikon will give you the biggest choice of bodies and lenses same mount for like 60 years i use decadesold nikon glass on my film bodies brandnew z mirrorless cameras and dslrs canon has two eras that arent very crosscompatible but lots of options nikon and canons autofocus era is a huge leap in features but theyre less compact and they dont look cool and retro which makes them excellent deals you can usually get a proquality af body for far less than a consumerera metal leather body since they look more like dslrs in the metal leather era youve got pentax nikon canon olympus mamiya on and on people will state the one camera i own and know about is the best but research and look for the features you want theres really not massive differences other than battery types if needed for the meter exposure modes shutter speeds available and lenses available a body that uses an easily available battery is certainly a plus though if youre cool with a fixedlens camera there are many japanese rangefinders out there if youre cool with a rangefinder vs slr thanks for the great reply and really useful information much appreciated lens focal length is all personal preference so for me i usually use a 50mm and a 30mm because i prefer a wider angle prime lenses will usually be sharper than zooms minolta lenses should be pretty cheap for the slrs youll be surprised how many people actually want their photo taken and get excited to be asked once you break the barrier then it gets easier asking people but it definitely helps if you start taking portraits of people you know first okay so with film youll have a window of 23 stops where you can have a correct exposure and within those 3 stops the difference will be minimal so you dont have to be exact negative film responds well to more exposure so if you guess on the side of giving it more light then youll get good results film boxes used to come with a chart that demonstrated the sunny 16 rule basically if you set your shutter speed to 1film speed then using shadows during daytime you can judge exposure youre right its the silver in the fixer that is the problem the amounts from home processing are so minimal to make a difference in the grand scheme of things however you can reclaim the silver from fixer using steel wool and then you end up with silver and chemicals safe to dump i use a zorki 4 which is a soviet leica rip off no light seals and never had a light leak add magenta if its a uniform tint think its also called tint on mobile editing apps deleted according to an article on the nikonians web site the maximum film advance speed of 8 fps can only be achieved using a shutter speed of 1250 or shorter using the nimh battery unit mn30 ken rockwell has some very good things to say about the f5 and also offers his tips on how to get the most out of it anyone know where to buy an a11 flash for my xa2 other than ebay if the alternative is the dumpster absolutely give a go at cleaning it saw a post on here not too long ago from someone who purchased a coolscan had terrible results cleaned up the components inside and fixed it difference was in results night and day so worth a shot i was wondering too i live in the countryside without municipal water we pump it up from our land we also flush everything down in our garden there are three connected vessels one of which is emptied twice a year so basically we end up drinking it again my bottles of paranol have big warnings on them not sure i should flush it down the drain ebay offers buyer protection for when you get a dud or a product not as described even then you can often get something returned even if it matches the description perfectly so you may want to look into that route and you could possibly recover some of or all of the cost the back is well sealed if theres ever leak its usually due to shutter misalignment or capping when im using a light meter to figure out what exposure to use for my image where should i be pointing it should i point it at something in the foreground like a tree or something in the background like a mountain or the sky or should i just point it directly in the middle of my picture back in 2005 through 2008 i shot rolls of fuji velvia 100f at the time it was no big deal but after looking through my 35mm slides recently im convinced that the velvia film stock was pure gold richly saturated ridiculously low grain color that just popped it seemed like everything came out perfect nearly every time everything in daylight and even some night shots were incredible now its long gone or 50 for an expired roll so what is a solid substitute im not concerned with price i just want a stock thats still being produced also that is available for 35mm and 120 i shot a roll of kodak professional ektachrome e100 the other day and the results were very good is this the way what say ye fellow analog crew incident or reflective for incident orient it so the integrator dome is in the same light as your subject receives for reflective point it to your subject and be aware of extra bright or dark backgroundssubject affecting it as it returns the correct exposure for an average gray subject lets say i wanted to shoot colorplus 200 6 stops 3 iso how would i go about doing that on my nikon fe2 would i choose the lowest iso and then adjust according to what my lightmeter says hey everyone im trying to figure out how to use a kodak 3a adapted to 120 i had some difficulty with this in the past so i put it down for a while but i tried to come back to it and give it another shot this weekend the camera works great with photo paper loaded in the back no problem but adapting it for 120 is giving me a real headache i cant even get so far as having anything to develop in order to even evaluate how the pictures would come out on rollfilm since i cant even successfully get the film out of the camera i have a set of 3d printed spool adaptors that let me put 120 film spools in the camera as opposed to the 122 film it was originally designed for they seem fine and are doing what theyre supposed to as far as i can tell however when i open the back i find that the film is rolled up incorrectly on the spool and lumpy and since its not rolled up tightly with the backing paper as it should be the whole roll is ruined this is at least the 3rd roll ive destroyed in the process of trying to take pictures what am i doing wrong i have two questions actually how steep is the learning curve on loading and using a bulk loader if i only have a changing bag and i want to shoot faster film than my camera konica auto s2 is rated for do i push 400 to run higher speed film thru it i shoot bands at local barsvenues and lighting is often subpar to shoot color plus at 3 iso you would just meter and expose at 3 iso pulling it in development would be another story that seems like an extreme pull if i am being honest but hey an experiment is an experiment velvia 100 is now banned in the us so if youre looking to import rolls from overseas it might be extra expensive velvia 50 is still a thing here though if you can find it in stock ektachrome is very good but definitely renders colors differently its pretty basic and good to learn on very versatile using a bulk auto loader is reasonably easy follow the instructions some practical tips wait to load it at night in a dark room just in case your changing bag or you fails its also good to disassemble it and assemble it eyes closed familiarizing yourself with opening and closing it in the dark be sure there are no leds or light in the room leave your phone out or in your pocket after you turn out the light stay a while familiarizing yourself with the dark take deep breaths make sure its dark as in you shouldnt be able to notice your hand in front of your face nor should you notice any light disassemble the loader as directed by the instructions put pieces in order by you you should be able to reachfind them in total darkness again practice with eyes closed worse case you just put the roll of film back in the plastic bag and box then turn the light on and reset the procedure anything can be solved just take deep breaths and think nobodys rushing you i dont have much to offer with shooting gigs did some but it was always a bit hit or miss i remember rating delta 3200 at 12800 which was optimistic for some of the dark venues i went your s2 seems to be rated to 400 only id probably take a stage reading and set the camera manually to the correct f stopspeed which will probably be 130 or 160 and f18 and a prayer ive only had a roll lost once luckily it was on the way back from the lab so i already had scans id be devastated if it was anything more important than it was but its a necessary gamble thanks for the reply yes velvia is long tone which im aware and am not trying to hold on to a lost cause its good to have one vote of confidence out there that ektachrome is a solid substitute as that is what i felt like the best choice id found so far anyone else have thoughts deleted i scored one in ebay today do you like it thanks for taking the time to write a detailed explanation im over thinking it i guess i have this fear of ruining lots of film all at once as opposed to roll by roll the good cheap reliable indestructible simple to calibrate the rangefinder mechanism good lens but the production was inconsistent nice size and weight the bad no framelines so framing can be hit or miss have to account for parallax the shutter speed dial is finicky to use and printed shutter speeds wear off over time after disengaging the shutter to rewind film i have to go through some strange process to reengage the shutter properly not sure if its just my camera overall does the job and a great camera for its price are there better cameras out there yes but this is the best of its role as a cheap rangefinder dont forget to cock the shutter and advance the next frame before changing shutter speed or you risk breaking the shutter worse it can happen is you drop the roll and it rolls in the floor unspooling the film in the dark the start of the roll can be taped to itself hold it firmly while untaping it if so and putting it inside the loader not with a death grip but consciously other than that nothing bad should happen noted thank you it would 6 stops but yes set your light meter to the speed you want to shoot at and shoot interesting i will update you on my experience with it it should be delivered this week and thank you for the last tip regarding the shuttertimes didnt read that before no worries and good luck with it which lens did you get on it btw theres the jupiter and the industar i think got both but will be using the industar this weekend i read that the jupiter is hit or miss and highly batch dependent the guy on the right looks like a supervillain love it the gold bracelets and gold watch on both his wrists the other guy was taking a pic of the gold chains |
i am traveling to spain and want to capture my trip i dont have any experience using this camera but have used a dslr in manual mode so i have a basic understanding of iso fstop and shutter speeds wondering what film i should get for the trip and if theres anything i should keep in mind i will also be photographing with my phone so if these shots dont turn out it wont be the end of the world thanks in advance | iso 800 portra anything expired when is your trip to spain i would run a few test rolls and get familiar with the camera before your trip i would recommend fuji or kodak 400 fairly inexpensive keep in mind that film needs to be hand checked at tsa exposed or not some people say that the xray will not affect it but in my experience it does even 200 film this is so beautiful unfortunately i leave in a week so i wont get a chance to do a test roll how much of an effect will it have would i be better off trying to by film there although that would still get affected on the way home thanks used to be my grandpas and he died shortly before i was born so i never got to meet him it has a ton of lenses lens filters and everything i would need to be able to see into his life a little bit it is not just a tool it is a memoir you are lucky if you do fly with film have tsa hand check it keep it somewhere handy so you dont forget personally i would try to find a lab nearby where you are staying and get it developedscanned if not fly with it back and make sure it doesnt get xray on rolls that been accidentally xray my color rolls had some photos show up with a fog and others the blacks get washed out on bw ive had fog and the black get washed out and shadows blend you have knowledge how iso works in film yes do you like colour or bw ultramax 400 or gold 200 from kodak inexpensive and incredible results gold is my favorite film stock and ultramax blew my mind as to how good it actually looked i would not test with expired film if these are your first rolls get some fresh film so if there is a problem you know its not the films fault during winter i shoot bw film mostly because theres no colors to capture try fomapan 200 it has lovely grain gold 200 if the sun is out you cant go wrong i have the same camera with the f2 50mm lens and i used kodak pro image with it really depends on your preferences the lens is rly nice you can choose films with low iso if u like it crisp and high contrast try kodak ektar 100 as beginner i always shot with kodak gold since it is affordable and the results are solid i have some knowledge for iso on film ill be leaving it set the same as the film although i know you can technically change it around a bit i like both but would prefer to shoot color this first time deleted if the film goes in my checked bag do they still need to look at the film well if you plan on shooting in low light and outside with the same roll i would choose kodak portra 800 even though it is expensive perhaps pick kodak gold and use your phone indoors if it goes in your checked bag it will be xrayed and can be destroyed this is why you want to take it in your hand baggage was your film affected by xray machines or ct scanners the newer more powerful ones ive had no issues in the us with tsa but there are many reports and even me asking airports like cdg that some airports in other countries will not hand inspect film if its under 800 2 rolls of gold 200 2 rolls of portra 400 3 rolls of hp5 1 roll of velvia 50 i used this camera exclusively for 7 years in the 90s it is a much underrated camera i had only two lenses a tamron sp 90mm f28 macro and tamron 24mm f25 i got great results a good general purpose film would be kodak gold 200 my favorite was fuji reala 100 but sadly no longer available my understanding is that the internal part of this camera is the same as the olympus om 2000 nikon fm10 vivitar v2000 etc and i believe cosina was the actual maker of them for bw tmax 100 or 400 ilford delta 100 is also nice all of these of you like nicely contrasted images i took 2 rolls of kodak portra 400 film with me in my carry on bag when i went to spain and the film were not affected at all by the xray when i got back i got them developed and they came out really well it happened in the philippines and i forgot to take out the film from my carryon 400 and it had visible damage im not sure about hand checking under 800 but this happened in 2018 bummer im hoping i get lucky with agents at cdg flr auh etc or it doesnt ruin the film deleted is that a toyota corona mkii oh queenstown i have nearly an identical picture hanging on my wall taken over a decade ago its such a beautiful place i really miss living there i visited from canada in 2011 and have been dreaming of going back ever since so jealous you got to live there wow we drove all over the south island and queenstown was definitely top 3 places we went |
i got my camera a couple weeks ago the seller of the camera had written it was in perfect condition and it was when i received it i paid 130 euro for it i havent gotten to use it yet either but i was looking at all the buttons in the camera making sure everything was working correctly at the start i had no concerns looked neat i then tried it again making sure a couple days later once i pulled back the lever and tried to press the shutter release it wouldnt press in now as i type this it presses in slightly but the lever still feels like it was pulled back and wont release the shutter turning to reddit as i have no more ideas shown the camera to my teacher and she doesnt even know why that happened thanks if anyone knows anything i could do it would be greatly appreciated video of the lever being pulled back | make sure the film advance lever is pulled all the way back its not supposed to trip the shutter unless the lever is pulled all the way back i think the button gets hard and wont press down yeah the lever is pulled back fully is there a way of sending videos on reddit id show you you should be able to post a video in herelink it are there batteries inside if no put them in or set the camera to 100x then push the shutter button yes theres batteries in it 100x where is that 125x on the top right surrounding the shutter relase button you should have a black plastic collar you can rotate oh yeah i tried all the modes on the dials hey this is a very common issue with the me super you can find multiple guides on youtube that guide you through how to open it up and locate the issue i fixed mine this evening but after 1015 shots it gets stuck again most of the time i just have to remove the bottom plate and push a metal bar sometimes i can flip it upside down pull the lever so its almost fully cranked and then move it slightly back and forth and itll come unstuck but only sometimes happy accidents love this its got a real heft for such a tiny setup where were you able to buy kodak plusx in a 110 cartridge pls i rerolled it myself this time i even ditched the backing paper and just plunked in bunch of 16mm film i got 44 shots off round about i need to do a bit better with light sealing next time a few tips and tricks to get it to work but all in all its a lot of fun and once you learn the ins and outs it not too difficult to do |
so i have quite a few books on making digital negatives but none of the digitalcompanion materials and everytime i see this question answered it always refers me there frustrating so from experience when making digital negatives for palladium printing on our epson 1880 and others of similar calibertime printing negatives in an almost winecolored magenta was ideal is there an ideal color to make digital negatives for gum bichromate at this time i also dont have a printer anymore and ill have to take my orders to labs any suggestions for the first few negatives while i have to account for their calibration used to if i found the curve to be off i could just correct and run off a new one in 30 minutes now itll have to be a whole new order and i dont really know how to deal with that as part of the digital negative process thanks for helpin a sista out | maybe you can print several step wedges using different photoshop curves and see which comes out the best i think thats a solid idea unfortunately just not any fun p this makes a lot of sense and id be able to quickly calibrate my printing my monitor and their printer i can make a pretty narrow step tablet too i might just throw up some colored variations to see what works best for the other problem eventually ill get to make the negatives im interested in thanks for the help yeah its going to be very tedious you should post it when you get some prints made though ive done a little reading into gum bichromate and am thinking about giving it a try some time will do i had a friend who scoffed at my entire process and just told me to make some oil negatives from a home printer the quality will be wildly different but i think given the printing process gum bichromates typical unreliableinconsistent nature and dreamyimpressionist qualities it might not be a bad idea i wasnt previously familiar despite all my typical lowtech tendencies it goes make a print on standard printer paper with whatever image i suspect laser and inkjet will both work for this but i dont know anything about laser prints blocking of uvvisible light as compared to inkjet using baby oil vegetable oil or beeswax wax is slightly different in preparation gently rub the paper until it is evenly saturated and transparent throw that baby in a contact printing sleeve and make some prints if you use wax it will dry out and you can make direct prints without glass or a sleeve but it is more involved baby oil dries quickly but spreads evenly vegetable oil is omnomnom for critters but is readily available i wound up applying to join a screenprinting coop and a photo club and depending if i hear back i may also go that route to make my own prints i hadnt thought of that when i first asked but it seems ideal to me now i do traditional gum bichromate so i cant help you much with the digital negative making process but you may check out the list and pose your question there try looking throughout the archives there have been discussions on and off about the process be warned though the archives are huge and the search function is new as far as i know when i joined i went from 99 11 clicking on all the gum bichromate linkstook me a week or two lol also here is a article by sam wang that has a small digital negative section thank you so much ill report back in once ive done some digging np at all btw i just found this while going through some of my saved gum bichromate sites great shots home or lab scan lab scan in gods country love a u2 reference you cant post a shot of a joshua tree without making a joshua tree reference looks good does the cold weather effect the camera or film oh yeah it can ive had multiple trips out shooting where my shutters would either freeze up or not be accurate because it was just too cold just a few days after this my pentax 645n shutter froze up when i got the camera in warmth it was fine again i also live in cold michigan youll reduceprevent this issue by reducing the moisture inside your camera let it warm slowly when you come back inside same way glasses will fog over moisture will condense inside the camera as well i use a harbor freight waterproof case and desiccant bags put the camera inside the case before you walk back inside and leave it there for a while until its back to room temp or if the camera is empty just open the back for a while when you walk in this may be fact or superstition i just know it works for me negative was on the darker side so i had to tweak the levels in photoshop not 100 happy with the results but it was one of my first lowlight shots lovely imo love the aesthetic of this shot how did you mange to shoot at f4 and still have enought light for a similar shot i would have to had been at f2 atleast this is a great photo good job thanks that means a lot i really appreciate the kind words thanks youre welcome |
im just starting to shoot with film cameras and i bought this point and shoot is it good to start with i loaded a kodak portra 400 i know its a bit much at first i would like photos that have those classic analogue vibes but not too blurry and not too grainy in short i would like them to be seen clearly but without too many pretexts what do you think | it doesnt matter what you shoot with you could be very surprised at the same time that camera is poop damn man thanks i guess i dont know if i need to be happy for the first part of the comment or sad for the second part but i got your point dont let the tool define the talent if its the only thing you have then thats great always master what you have before investing in better gear whats so bad about it pretty generic cheap point and shoot if its works its almost certainly better than any of the reloadable disposables you can buy new if its all youve got its a fine camera compared to something else it may not hold up too well but its adequate if you just want a camera to take snaps without the need to worry about settings then itll do the job just fine just googling the name of the camera will give you sample images takes perfectly acceptable photos ok it is slightly better than poop great camera to get inspiration great focal length if you have some good exposures with the camera and get addicted then upgrade dont let the bad exposures trick you into thinking its a bad shot you are working with lots of limitations know that what you have is a sub par lens and a sub par metering system that doesnt mean you cant get a great image it just might not be consistent if its what you have yes thank you very much perfectly fine now get out and shoot is it good for what depends what your goals expectations are if youre happy with the quality of polaroids and just want to take candid snapshots this yashica is probably fine as long as it works however if youve been accustomed to shooting with good apsc digital cameras and you want a film camera with which to shoot good highquality portraits or landscapes or whatever then this yashica is trash even if it works great no no of course i dont pretend to shoot high quality photos my aim is to shoot 80s90s type photos not too grainy and blurry candid but not even with the quality of a digital camera i would like to shoot photos and shoegazegarage rock concerts that i go to or artistic photos like those indie rock cover arts from the 70s with weird stuff just nice unpretentious analogue photos what matters is that they are at least a little clean and have that analogue touch nothing more as long as it works sounds like this camera is gonna be perfect for your needs this absolute lad lives outside a nearby fish cake restaurant with his much shyer sister photo taken on christmas eve just before blue hour |
hi everyone i recently got this camera at a yard sale for 5 i did a quick inspection and saw that the advance lever rewind lever and the shutter was working however the shutter blades were stuck and i saw videos online that were helpful and i was able to fix it i tried googling for the fix on the tough to turn shutter speed ring but there was not much info of how to go about doing do i have to clean the shutter speed ring and then apply lube any help will be appreciated thanks | deleted i love how nikon lenses depict the light i have an fm they are such a joy to take pictures with these pics remind me of the place i used to live in which was a harbor neighborhood and of course i took lots of pictures with my nikon that first picture makes me feel some type of way beautiful |
just started shooting on film and these were some of my favourite shots from my first roll during my time with this roll i was on winter break saw family and friends helped my female friends move out of their place and many more things that im not comfortable with sharing online excited for whats to come and i hope someone out there enjoys at least one of these photos happy holidays | i forgot to say this is on a minolta maxxum 7000 with a 3575 mm lens and shot on fujifilm 200 film |
there is virtually no colour film available in my city since the beginning of the ukraine war and online prices are ridiculous so are you just shooting despite the price have old stock or is this price spike just happening here in germany recommendations for affordable film online are appreciated | its not just in germany its everywhere and im not sure the war has anything to do with it i afford it because its my hobby i dont have many other outlets where my money goes besides the essentials so its a justifiable expense but saying that i mainly shoot black and white and save colour for special occasions no need to shoot it all the time in the uk lots of the online film labs are listing smaller amounts of film limited to maybe 3 rolls a customer for the original sale price about 650 so ensure people are still able to enjoy it bigger retailers are still selling for the higher price as well as very small camera shops too so we have a bit of a mix when it comes to colour films my wife bought me about 10 rolls of 120 for xmas thatll keep me going for a while otherwise just pay it myself everything is expensive now not just film i rarely shoot color these days but when i do its only my favorite stocks colorplus is cheep but a surprising favorite and i would pay portra prices if i had to for it sometimes i shoot cinestill or portra but rarely the latter i havent come across any of these labs do you have any links i have a few rolls left but only provia and velvia at this point which i both consider specialty films and dont want to use as everyday rolls i just bought four rolls of silbersalz35 which are basically the same price as portra 400 these days but including development and scanning thats a good deal but i cant say anything about the quality yet prices are crazy though i wont be shooting much film if this should become the new normal its obviously out of stock a lot but the prices are pretty fair here ive found ive found most of my labs on instagram and any run by younger people tend to be better prices silbersalz quality is amazing i went through one of their test packs with 50 250 500 and one other 100 their workflow is really great and i wasnt able to acheive the same scanning quality they did with their scanner just remember to shoot one stop overexposed oh thanks for the tip did you have a favorite of the four films the fifty is incredible but you have to shoot it at 25 which is really slow so depending on where you live that might be a tripod film for most occations imo the 250 is a great versatile film at 125 if you have fast lenses thats great advice thanks i only have two fixedlens cameras canon ql17 and rollei 35s but i mostly shoot outdoors so im usually not too bothered about film speeds do you push the film or just shoot a stop overexposed and let the scanner do its thing you just shoot one stop over and let silbersalz do the rest imo the best workflow |
i have picked up a minolta srt101 first film camera and its gotten me hooked on film photography i was wondering what other slrs i should get to have a solid collection | for what purpose are you wanting to collect to have a good choice of cameras to shoot with or collecting for the sake of a collection deleted have you thought about a rangefinder kind of a different experience if you come from a slr also expanding into mf territory is nice but expensive i was looking into a minolta himatic to keep with the minolta aesthetic if you have any suggestions for rangefinders im all ears mf would be neat but not ideal to walk around in the countryside of japan with a fat camera and my daughter removed im also new to rangefinders i have a running online search on all camera offers nearby and just buy them when theyre cheap and nice thats how i got a canonet ql17 giii some weeks ago so thats the only rf ive used so far and thus not much of a reference the himatic also looks nice for me it makes more sense to find a camera with a good lens system buy a body and then collect the lenses then you can actually be more creative with different focal lengths to have a good choice to shoot with and to have a collection thats sick was watching a kingjvpes video the other day and thought his ql17 was beautiful will definitely research more and look into markets around me i hear you or read you in this case lol will definitely look into other glasses for my minolta first dont collect cameras make photographs with digital the body matters more because the kind of sensor you are buying with analog the film is the sensor and the lens makes the difference i have 2 camera bodies and for me its fun finding the lenses that you want have a simple pentax me but the k mount lens line up is huge so chasing the more rare lenses just watched the vid he summarizes it pretty good for myself it was a bit tricky to hit the focus shooting wide open aperture because you rotate the focus lever just for 14 rotation from closest to infinity especially when you are used to the smooth minolta lenses but when you take your time to make the photo its not much of an issue pentax bodies are super cheap in japan might have to cop it since theres so many lenses for it hope you catch those rare lenses no doubt will do that instead this stories of past photographers that made amazing photos with limited gear interest me not shelves stacked with mamiya 7s and mjus add lenses until you find the focal length that suits you best and try your hardest to wear the camera out through use i am partial to simple mechanical cameras i like the praktica mtl3 metal curtain shutter m42 mount you can ignore the meter if you like sturdy and reliable fit it with a helios 442 a domiplan and a converted projector lens and youve got enough of a rig for more than a few shooting adventures so much information that its gonna send me to google for research do not go to google for research hang out in a group like photrio or on flickr which has specific camera groups google gives the most popular answer not the best or right answer slr shutters are either cloth or metal metal is sturdier and has less risk of being burned by the camera lens which concentrates light on the shutter material unless the lens is capped internet archive has bundles of back issues of camera magazines books from archiveorg or your public library are a much better investment of your time than google fantastic shots dope utown represent nice mood imo ulmer spatza wasserratza last shot got michael mann vibes love the first two |
title any tips on how to shoot at night using a camera with shutter priority and no flash going through my first roll using this camera and im loving the experience so far thanks in advance | if youre going to go around shooting your pen ee s all night make sure to bring protection got to be safe during night photography but all jokes aside it should be basically the same as a full frame camera or medium format if you dont have a tripod monopods can be good too but wont help for 5sec shots then you will want to take some high iso film like a 3200 speed film you can also push the film if needed and delta should really be treated as 1600 so keep that in mind this film will be grainy as well if you have a tripod and ideally a shutter cable then go for cinestill if you want color or a 400 speed black and white film like delta 400 you can push to 800 very well for the delta which might let you capture well lit streets hahaha will make sure of that anyway thank you for this will make sure to try it btw just wondering if a 3200 speed film would work even if the cameras max asa setting is 200 i dont own the camera myself but it will all come down to shutter and aperture you will likely need to meter manually very cool somewhat related do you live in the canarieseu if not how has traveling with film been at airports ive never had trouble in the us but growing slightly concerned with upcoming travel to canaries and others even with 400 speed or slower film cdg airport told me unless its 800 or faster its getting xrayed thank you i live in eu and i always let the film true the xray all film i had was expired from around 20052007 but all of them were iso 100400 max the quality of that bokeh is that a petzval lens edit seems to be a haiou31 lens on that seagull tlr but i cant find much info on it anyway the bokeh complements the composition beautifully here incredible exposure oh i love removed i have a seagull 4a109 which takes awesome photos beautiful a lot of these lenses with tons of character are hard to use in a beautiful way that isnt just chaos this is great thank you very much the lens is a haiou sa85 f3575 thank you so much thank you this is a spectacular photo and it radiates all the qualities that are exclusive to analog film photography thank you so much the lens i believe is a cooke triplet design which is not exactly ideal for a 75mm f35 rollei and semflex both use tessar style for f35 but the imperfections is what gives it character you captured something special thanks for sharing this thank you keep up the good film work great image and great scenery thankyou i want to go to there hackney wick looks good a few thoughts lovely light i especially like how it falls on his left foot i like the texture of the background behind him the opening in the background in the right of the image is distracting cropping in could work details are lost in the part of his face thats in the light i agree i think a crop would really improve this what a great camera i think it depends on the image but something like this i would say no sprockets i agree on both accounts i definitely think its on a pic by pic basis aswell as i find it distracting in this specific shot i vote no sprockets i take it this was underexposed you should be able to fix the shadow colorcast in post its actually a light leak can you zoom in the sprocketed image a little bit to provide a slight border but lose the text might look interesting it definitely makes it look less busy for sure no sprockets what they add is somewhat irrelevant to whether or not it is a good or meaningful photo how do you scan so that it shows the sprockets flatbed i actually just lay the film down on my mini light bed with some little weights on it and take a picture of the negative with my digital camera and macro lens getting prepared for the judgment i can understand but there really is no meaning to this shot it was just a quick snapshot if this were an actual portrait i probably wouldnt leave them on on most occasions doesnt look like a light leak to me i dunnonwhat to tell yea lol its the only image that has it and the only image shot in this location and also the very first few shots i assume i didnt add enough tension when i preloaded the film so when i took my first shots it wasnt laying flat so it exposed the edge of the film sprockets or no sprockets your image is inverted incorrectly the emulsion should be the black point and color neutral your emulsion shows brighter than black and has a heavy color cast setting the black point based on the light shining through the sprocket holes rather than based on the emulsion is a common cause of this symptom its ilford hp5 plus film developed in a paterson tank with fresh dev and fix is it a light leak or bad agitation or something else id go with light leak what kind of camera could possibly be if you havent made sure the film is nice and tight when youve loaded it yashica mat 124g was it the whole role or just that frame did you leave it on that frame for a long time in the camera before taking the shot at what point in the roll is this anyone frames with similar defects it cant be a light leak if its darker than it should be the left side of the frame maybe but no the right edge right i would think shutter problems but that would result in a sold black bar rather than this strange bubble texture puzzling if its on the whole roll id guess that there was not quite enough developer ive never had that happen to any of my film but i love it work with it its bromide drag i fucking hate that shit read up on it it is a 124g which is a leaf shutter so a faulty shutter would look different id put my bet on not having enough developer in the tank while processing when using paterson or similar developing tanks its always a good idea to pad the amount of developer by a good 25 or so developer is cheap ill definitely give this a go next time i use 500ml as the tank states however the tank can dribble a bit when i agitate it sounds wrong so maybe the level drops enough to cause the problem ill blast another roll through the camera and up my quantities thanks id say the same as redjaggers possibly not enough dev andor agitation can do something very similar to this also hello west pier photographing brightonite fjols til fjells i sndagsklr cool shot 400mm 14 or 40mm 14 came here to say the same thing 400mm f14 that would be insane yikes a typo crept in its of course a 40mm im impressed you got this close to the ducks with the rb that camera is a beast i used to think the pentax 67 was big until i acquired an rb it makes the 67 look normal great shot no fear just a peaceful vibe thats how very cool glad you got the shot very cute this is a nice shot to hint at spring when were in the middle of winter beautifull picture big hug from old friend vasco ainda hoje falei sobre ti abrao theyre egyptian geese i like the gradient of color from top to bottom with the pop of orange in her foot and the composition of shadows i really like the way gold renders color it gives such a timeless look fantastic composition and i love your print excellent work i really like the way gold renders color it gives such a timeless look fantastic composition and i love your print excellent work thanks yeah gold 200 is great still have to grab a roll in 120 great shot i was there in september and was shooting ferrania p30 the 43 limited is a great lens still regret selling it youre welcome same im really excited to try out in 120 it sure is although i sometimes struggle with the focal length im certainly more confident with a wider lens like the 31 i love the title my sister has a black cat shes always dusty from rolling around on the rugs great use of delta 3200 you took a wonderful photo i had to shoot upwards on an angle to get this shot so its not straight that being said i love how much detail film captures im really loving xtol 13 fine grain and detail a castle fog solid photo where was this taken thanks took it at radicofani in tuscany really cool place since the castle is on top of an unactive volcano youre welcome wow thats quite the location to build post removed gear post rule post all gearfilm content including finds deals and so on in ranalogcommunity if you believe your post merits its own thread please contact the mod team for approval before posting thank you the mods |
posted my srt101 pickup earlier was wondering if anyone had some glass recommendations for it ill be doing landscape city shots and night shots as well | i think the standard 50mm 17 are pretty nice even nicer on an x series body with that said if you can find the minolta md 50mm 17 nonrokkor for a good price get that one it is the newest rendition and the newest glass otherwise the rokkor lenses are great and you shouldnt hesitate to shoot either of them with that said the 45mm f2 is extremely sharp and the 28mm f28 is a great option as well i havent tried any of the zooms i currently have a 55mm 17 on right now was seeing some 28mm f28 and 35mm f28 for less than 50 bucks very tempting lol i dont have any experience with the 35mm but i would be interested in getting one myself 45mm f2 md should be about 40 in the us |
shot on fomapan 100 rated at 400 developed in rodinal 1100 80min nikon f3 nikon nikkors 55mm 12 at f4 | nice informal portrait i think great picture just bring the composition down a little so there is less space above the head and the subject fills the frame the rule of thirds isnt so important for a shot like this keep up the good work thanks for the comment thanks this is such a cool portrait she is very pretty and her style is amazing mine too now i guess removed i really like this the symmetry of your girlfriends face and eyes really stand out and then the glasses earring and gloves add a ton of interest the contrast is spot on too i wish i could take portraits like this was it a spurious photo or a dedicated shoot geil deleted thanks she is very happy to hear this we went for a walk and i got my camera with me and then i took some pictures of her i would have preferred the shot without the handsgloves great photography by the way id crop for 7x5 for this photo deleted if its your favorite then its your favorite shes very pretty its a great photo asis it looks real like a genuine candid moment captured competently theres feeling in this photo and theres no need to shoot it differently however if youre looking to improve this on technical points get a little closer eliminating 12 the space above her head and 13 the space on either side center her face in the frame the crop point at the bottom is good but pay attention to details when shooting you couldve adjusted her right glove and sleeve so that the wrist of the glove was covered by the jacket cuff like her left wrist is obviously i mean her left right not left right in the photo that wouldve made the image look slightly more aesthetically balanced i think its a nice job agree with everyone saying to crop the top off a bit if i were printing this neg id bring the gloves down a bit theyre blown out harshwhite in some posts and it really sucks the eye away from her face might be some tone in the neg to grab onto our eyes are drawn to contrast and sharpness so the gloves really fight for attention vs framing her face id also play with bringing down the tone of the lenses same issue of contrast and distraction and play with a bit of vignette at the bottom to keep the eye moving up a soft vignette in the topleft corner would wall off the composition a bit too again its about letting the viewers eye explore the scene but keep guiding it back to the subject beautiful i like it seems to capture a moment maybe shes thinking shes cold or maybe shes thinkin shes gonna merk you for takin a photo when she wasnt ready etc thanks for the great analysis i will look for details like the sleeve in the future thanks for the comment im not into printing yet shes be a cool steam punk cosplay character smash no comments i think the bokeh over her head maybe windows is great and a good reason to frame the photo as it is of course the picture could have been taken from a bit lower so that that bokeh is besides her head but then there would be less of it visible by the way do all photographers have beautiful girlfriends i like her hair pointing to left and right is a funny detail this is far livelier than a studio photo in which every single detail is checked twice before releasing the shutter deleted i agree im a fan of the bokeh above her head great shot and wow that lens is lovely marry her i feel like focusing on bokeh and over composition is kinda amateur and you should also definitely take a picture like this at eye level with the subject i wouldnt crouch down the image does have a but too much headroom removed its not perfectly centred oddly specific deleted bokeh has begun some kind of a fashion when i first started photography in 1988 nonody spoke about it like nowadays narrow focus was of course used but mainly what was out of focus was just not focused the soviet made lenses and similar to them were mainly regarded as something inferior to the german or japanese ones because they were not so advanced and well they were made in the ussr i think that this bokeh fashion is analogous to abstract paintings ultra sharp realism is something we have already seen people are publishing photos consisting only of bokeh actually i made a friend of mine laugh with some photos taken without any lense however bokeh is an interesting phenomenon because we need a camera to see it without it our eyes focus on what we are looking at even if you need glasses you dont see bokeh but just some mess there is a difference but could it be possible to make bokeh glasses the third point about any conscient decision in photography is knowing your personal aesthetics i think that any portrait without a context remainds a passport photo people live and things happen in our world for example the context makes me think that this girl is happy but feels a bit cold the background tells the reason of feeling cold it is not summer and finally i have to remember that the coldness is just my interpretation of course this is a subject of discussion if some face has interesting details the detais are the main subject and the face is the context the deeper and more abstract our discussion about aesthetics gets the more we are speaking about ourselves and the less about the the photo that initiated the discussion not really that odd the comment i replied to talked about making the subject fill the frame cropping to 7x5 would fill the frame yea these frame it this way and crop it comments are so cringe just do what you please and dont like for reddits approval find a few real peers you respect who will give you honest feedback but if you dont fill the frame completely with the subject is it even a picture s nice portrait really captures a moment only thing would be to crop the top of the frame a little but this is nicely lit nicely composed its nice but hands are very big i like to use longer lenses for portraits it seems you use a short wideangle sina okay close one eye and look at your finger you can definitely see bokeh and out of focus elements lmao are you serious one of us has a girlfriend you must have a quality zoom lens nice photo hahah was woher kennst du sie thank you i like the gloves especially because they add some nice contrast thanks for the advice you can do all that stuff in post software a lot faster than with an enlarger too do you recommend a specific program im a big photoshop fan the stuff im talking about arent global changes theyre more to specific areas of an image so you need some sort of masking or selecting or adjustable tools i dont think lightroom can really do that its more a global image processor works on the whole image and ive been using photoshop since version 1 shipped on a pile of diskettes am old as hell so i tend to get images into it as soon as possible in the chain immensely powerful software wow thank you thats awesome i have a set lying around to use 35mm in my gsw690ii do you mask part of the viewfinder or do you guestimate how the image will come out i just ran through my first roll of 35mm in my lubitel and i just centered my subjectscompositions as best as possible seems like thats the key as i go through more im sure ill start noticing more where the edges are compared to in my viewfinder but when you lod it youll see its probably 23 of the actually intended frame right down the center very nice i just guessed it was the first time i shot 35mm eith my fuji almost all of them turned out well centered does it work with a mask the viewfinder has a parallax compensation so it moves when you focus thank you try using the frame line on the right side to aid with your framing for me its roughly the height of the 35mm film its also taken me a lot of practice to get it right heres a couple of recent ones i like thanks i guess trial and error will be the way to go wow looks really nice frameline on the right ok how did you do this tight i ham dusting off my sprocketrocket this year and had an idea shooting over the sprocket holes n stuff is cool and fun duh what rig can be modified to do this on 120 film i wonder sure a 45 holder and a little tape could work but i want to shoot on the entire roll in a pano format can you pull or grind down a perfectly good horseman this is a really nice composition but as with basically all photos with sprocket holes included it would be better without them they distract from what is otherwise a very pleasing and well framed composition and subject i just thought it would be nice if you could shoot 35mm film without sprockets that would be a real 35x90 format of course you could crop the 120 film but that doesnt feel right of course this was meant as thank you removed i used adapters to shoot 35mm film in an 120 format camera there are som dedicated 617 cameras out there fuji 617 for example hope you have enough film in your fridge when i see this i just really feel the need to go buy a medium format camera can be quite tricky on the gw good job very nice shot you should come share it in rsprocketshots interesting use of a dutch angle but it also levels out the lines in frame how do you like the canon p im considering picking one up way cool very creative thanks cheers yeah id never normally shoot that angle but the grid lines on the wall and handrail lend themselves to it i love the canon p so simple and enjoyable to use i got one fully repainted and clad works like a dream love it great shot love the angle captured haha i love this clever shot such a lovely picture love that the ad says its ok to ask for help and having two friends at the center of the photo very nice any idea what aperture you used also check out rlargeformat if you want thank you wide open at f35 and some tilt to make sure eyes and hands were in focus thanks very nice straight to the top excellent shot great timing btw the gentleman reminds us of a very young lean arnold schwarzenegger thanks paul i can definitely see it loved your video on this thanks for watching probably one of my favorites man your large format shots are so well done its really hard to make candid photos of models but even more so of random people you nail it all the time great stuff and i look forward to the next video mate every video of yours i inch closer to buying a large format haha thank you thats nice to hear yeah it doesnt always work out quite as nicely as this everything came together well if you end up pulling the trigger dont hesitate to reach out with any questions where are you getting your 4x5 c41 processed cant get it done locally in seattle anymore beautiful photograph thanks i have always processed myself it would be hard for me to justify shooting 4x5 color if i wasnt the only time i ever sent it off was northeast photographicthey were fine how do you like chamonix was thinking about purchasing best 4x5 ive ever used not a single negative to say about it and its been almost two years now oh manive watched your stuff on youtube for you bnw stuff do you ever print in the dark room or is it all scanned thanks for watching i have a darkroom and do some printing but i really dont shoot much black and white i am looking at starting a new project that is all black and white soon though so hopefully i will get in and print more why the new account i thought someone was stealing your stuff for a sec lol deleted reddit for a hot second to better my mental health and overall relationship with social media twitter is still out came back and couldnt get my old username of big headed chimp so here we are truck damon striking image i want to know his story idk why but he does look like a travis love how even on a smartphone screen the quality of lf shines through just gorgeous whats your channel just looked through your insta page and all your portraits are incredible ive not ventured much into portraits yet they scare me a bit haha but yours have definitely inspired me keep up the awesome work youtubecombryanbirks the second i saw this image i knew it had to mean you were back on reddit i was right glad to see you back so beautiful love zooming into details like the hand scar and dirty fingernails is this the kid who gives a thumbs up at a 90s computer in that one gif all grown up stellar shot this rules will do my man appreciate it is travis aware hes in an a24 film welcome back ive been following you for a while really enjoy having the 4x5 slide of melvin brill thats a whole lot of character and emotion brought through just checked out your work so good this is a very pleasing photo saw this and immediately thought of bryan birks hang on a second great to have you back happy to be back thanks for looking thanks for the support feel like ive seen this one before somewhere detail in his skin is wiiiiiiild so good i wasnt familiar with you before this post love the portrait and video subscribed instantly i have such a soft spot for lf portraits and the rural midwest looking forward to more wow the detail how do you scandigitize your negatives yeah same here honestly feel like this is a 1010 portrait for many subtle as well as obvious reasons proper art of portraiture well done a fan here do you have insta i had recently subscribed to you on youtube and absolutely love your work stoked to see you posting here so good thank you hopefully you enjoy future videos as much i posted two other photos from this encounter on my old reddit account same person but different compositions thank you they are tough but very rewarding dont be afraid to make mistakes i use a lumix s1 and a sigma 70mm macro lay it on a raleno led light and convert with negative lab pro thank you kindly means a lot ig is bryanbirks thank you very much glad you enjoy cheer up travis i feel you its so hard not to get sucked into the social media black hole i dont like the way my brain short circuits and like lusts after numbers yours shots are really rad though i think they stand out exceptionally well id like to shoot more 45 so thats a goal hey i saw your youtube video about this his other photos are really nice too great work literally just watched your video for this the other day solid work fantastic photo reminds me of a schutmaat portrait thanks sir bryan is a legend love his work big inspiration loved this video love your stuff so damn good good to be back thank you very much thank you kindly great work as always bryan ludicrous as always lol seeing the thumbnail i thought you went back in time and photographed this kid nice picture i love this style reddit twitter i just want to pop his pimples on his cheeks damn the resolution is insane everything about this photo is exactly what i love about portrait photography this is so good absolutely love it are you speaking in 3rd person my name is limeromance honest mistake do you do a single shot or are you stitching the images im debating upgrading my scanning setup from a fuji xt30 thank you deleted i do two shots using high res mode on the s1 which is basically stitching in camera then i combine in lightroom works out to around a 1gb tiff file i have done up to 69 shots per sheet of film in the past with cameras that dont have a stitching function though thank you very nice wow the halations on the lanterns are so cool great shot that chair is a mood were afraid your post title doesnt meet the requirements for this subreddit technical information rule include the film stock lens and camera used in your post title if you do not know some of the required information state that in either the title or toplevel comment eg nikon f3 50mm f18 unknown film or use found film for auctionthrift store finds family photos and so on the reason we ask for this information is that you can only search on the content of post titles not comments we encourage you to resubmit with that information we have built up quite a database of different cameras lenses and films over the years reddit doesnt allow you to search on comments so keeping these keywords in the title is the only way to search for them thank you the mods great town great beach great shot my favorite beach on the planet amazing picture gorgeous colors st bernard great photo dont suppose you know what aperture you shot this at thanks f11 very nice creamy white feeling on this one that mamiya glass and portra rly coming through right here i used to work across the street from here love the pic wow i think these will just increase tsa scrutiny probably best to just ask for a hand check these were probably perfectly kosher when film was at its peak pre911 but airport security is much more strict nowadays havent looked very hard then have you if it has a lead cover the xray probably wont see through it and security will ask to see inside same with covering aliminum packaging if you try to pass polaroid or instax films without opening the box they will probably ask you to open it not recommended will just get your bag searched by hand leading to delays just request a hand check of your film which tsa will provide actively detrimental youll either have airport security crank up the power on the xray until they can see through it and damaging your film more than a normal xray or they will get suspicious of you and will be less likely to help you out with a hand check thanks all for the help noted and i will not try this at the airport to play the devils advocate i always use the super film shield same thing just protective of high speed film maybe 50 percent of the time i get through 50 percent of the time i have to hand check my bag i dont think its a horrible option honestly i think its a good option in case you forget to ask for hand check or the airport doesnt do them also keeps all your stock in one place lol this is a terrible will only create more headaches and tsa will either hand check or ruin your film by increasing the xray so they can see whats inside im very new to film and didnt even consider this im about to travel to central america with some film rolls i plan to shoot is there any precautions to take or is the xray damage fairly minimal anyways what about fill already loaded in the camera always go with hand check i use them so i dont forget to ask for hand check yea theyll hand search if they see it better than me forgetting to ask radiation is cumulative so if you are going through multiple security checks hand checking is good to get on a plane in port au prince your luggage will get xrayed 3 times then at us customs to get on another flight so thats a lot if you are smart just put in a zip lock and hand it around but i get tired forgetful and dumb some people say to have is hand checked personally i have always put my film in my carryon luggage and never had any problems of fogging not even with multiple flights approx 8 scans i used black and white print and slide film all up to 400 iso depends outside the us you absolutely cannot rely on being able to have your film hand checked heathrow terminal 5 will always refuse a hand check no matter the iso i fly through heathrow regularly and have never had my domke lead bag queried good to know thank you so much this is lovely thank you thats a beautiful shot edit wallpaper worthy thank you beautiful stuff makes me miss grill em all it doesnt feel right i cant explain it but it feels more cut off than photos that are also cut off similarly maybe its my brain wanting the arch to come to a close or maybe its the foreground not dying into the ledge of the arch im thinking out loud i love the colors though i love you are expression its a keyhole or a window to another place i am not a pro photographer i just like taking pictures love the photo love the place alhambra is magical i feel like im looking back in time great shot cool how long did you expose removed also came here to ask this and what aperture i assume wide open yes and did you use a filter i have 2 rolls of rollie infrared and i have been waiting to do something fun with it a collection of these would make some sick prints to frame the kiev 60 is a true slr on steroids if you ever want to get it upgraded for example to fix the spacing issue that this camera suffers from arax foto in kiev does an excellent job they also sell accessories and lenses mine has been overhauled by arax its become my favorite camera although just this trip it has started dragging the shutter again and im not sure how operational he is or how long it would take with the current events im bummed i only have one more i really like two just doesnt feel like a set thanks this was about 35 hours 65mm at f28 i meant to switch to the 80mm but forgot longer the focal length longer the trails per time exposed not for this i wanted the full visible spectrum plus any ir for this shot i dont know if i did some bad math but i actually managed to underexpose a full roll of rollei ir400 could have been just me but maybe err on the side of overexposure yep shot at f28 65mm about 35 hours or however long it took for me to hear the middle of the night alarm interesting thanks for the heads up ill look into that ive found ir400 is definitely closer to iso 100 when theres not much infrared in the scene i think what they did was rate it at 400 given that the extra infrared in a standard daylight scene would result in extra light exposing the film that a light meter wouldnt see so exposing for 400 would get you closer to a proper exposure in that case just my thinking anyways sick shot almost abstract thank you dont forget to set the iso you cant change it between pictures like digital thanks do i set it before or after putting in the film i have this camera its a lot of fun and easy to shoot it did take me a while to figure out how to focus certain things but i enjoy shooting with it changing the iso on mine was also difficult but it may just be my camera have fun you should set the iso right for your film you can change it with pushing and turning the little ring on the lense put the film in and keep an eye on the little film wheel it has to turn when you advance the film and have fun edit asa iso take a cheap film for testing some fomapan 100 for example to test the conditions of the cam otherwise you wast a nice film edit fomapan 100 is a good and easy to get filstock so i recommend it for the op i usually do it while loading the film overexpose slightly by 01 stop film does terribly with underexposure and can handle a bit more light i like to shoot 400 iso at 200240 for example shoot lots of film read the photography books by ansel adams and read them again check the metering by comparing it to a digital camera while aimed at a constant light source set the iso on both cameras to the same number if the film camera disagrees note how much different the reading is and adjust your film exposure accordingly whats a good one to start with consider keeping a small notebook to make note of things for each shot things like location time of day weather conditions and camera settings you wont always remember them when the film comes back and it can help you as you get more used to doing things you could use the timelocation info to decide if you want to return later or earlier in the day for different lighting the camera settings if you want to try something with more depth of field or longer exposures etc you wont always be shooting an entire roll of film in a day and then getting it back from processing to remember these things its sometimes helpful to write things down also dont be afraid to move around and take pictures from angles that arent typical eye level thats where things start getting interesting ansel adams the camera and ansel adams the negative there is a kodak book called how to take a good photograph it is not so heavy and a vintage good read try to visualise the effects of aperture and its relation to time it gets easier as you go on you might want to look into a catlabs exposure calculator about 20 but very useful and educational be well dont be too bummed if your first roll isnt great keep at it and youll get better i remember my first roll was pretty bad but ive improved significantly and im much happier with my film photos now you have bought my favorite camera enjoy why cant you change the iso between photos i dont think there is any way for the camera to know when the iso was set it just uses the current iso setting to adjust shutter and aperture to the current light measurement i mean you can its not illegal it just over or under exposes if you use the built in meter if use a separate meter its best to leave it on the correct iso so you dont forget the similar himatic f was my first 35mm camera minolta made great cameras and lenses meter for the shadows film can hang with being overexposed way better than digital can its not hard to learn how to develop your own film and it pays for itself after x amount of rolls bonus if you have a digital camera you can scan yourself too everyone sees fomapan 100 as cheap test film but its much more than that too very classic and beautiful rendition one of my favourites your are absolutely right its just cheap to get but it works really really good that is great the guy who sold it to me said the same great camera for beginners in film yeah i guess one has to get used to a new camera always for me is the same every time i use a different digital they all have its tricks thank you its not illegal love that how do i know if i have a built in meter good tip thanks for the tips i used one time a point and shoot but the roll thing for the film wasnt working right so i wasted a film i never used it again i will try with this minolta with the film you recommend i hope i find it where i live learning from books is a great plus i also have found an online course in the platform domestika i will try that as well a notebook is an amazing idea will definitely try it fomapan 100 is an excellent filmstock for testing cameras its easy to find and cheap the zone focusing of this cam is also pretty intuitive for the first shots i also recommend you to take a small tape measure with you so that you can teach your eye on the zones of your focussteps on the cam practice is key good tip thanks its great to know that its a great camera to start with i would love to learn eventually how to develop my own film i just dont have the space right now all hi matics have a built in meter the tiny circle above the lens you can usually find a manual for old cameras online here is the hi matic g manual thank you dont be too hard on yourself when the negatives come back blank has light leaks or the door popped opened halfway and exposed the film film photography isnt an exact science that is why it tends to be personal and different for each person dont underestimate the amount of light you need shooting in doors without a flash will be dark bright blue skies and sunshine is your friend youd be surprised how little space it takesi do it in my kitchen you just need a changing bag a few bottles for chems and a lil paterson tank really where do i get those things i have a himatic e great little camera one note if it was one had originally been made to use mercury batteries its possible for it to stop working the batteries corrode the inside and can have the battery wire come loose its an easy fix i fixed mine by pulling the bottom cover off and soldiering the wire back onto the battery housing tab the replacement batteries no longer use mercury mine was owned by my stepdad and i enjoy taking photos with it if youre just starting id probably get the cinestill color simplified kit a few bottles a changing bag and a tank i bet cinestill has all that stuff but you could probably cheaper if you look around toughest part is keeping the chemicals at 102 degrees f cinestill sells an expensive dealie but i just use a sous vide machine and a small plastic storage tote to hold the water bath and the stuff when im not using it theres smartphone apps for this too i use metalog thank you oh boy ill looking into that once i have more experience the first shot is portra the latter 2 are kodak gold i love it so much 1 dollar sure if it works put a battery in and test it if its not in working condition even a dollar is to much but yes it can produce some pictures with decent quality a dollar isnt bad for any film camera that functions imo those olympus stylus arent bad i see them pretty often in the local thrift shops i had a stylus with the 35mmf35 lens back in the day when i was a newspaper photographer i tore my rotator cuff and my left arm was in a sling for a week during which i used that camera a lot my young son would come to work with me sometimes on the weekend id load it up with a roll of trix and hed keep himself busy shooting photos as we went out on assignments he was published for the first time at 6 yo when he snapped a shot of a hair stylist cutting hair at the local mall for donations to a charity my boss semichewed me out the next day because he didnt appreciate the impression that our job was so easy a child could do it great little film camera i would personally try and talk them down s how could any functioning camera of 1 not be worth it if this is your hobby itll cost more than a dollar for a battery lucky sevens ive had like 3 styluss in my time shooting film theyre really great for traveling or drunk nights out for only a dollar id buy it just to see if it works its the most welldesigned point and shoot ive ever shot almost effortless in fact you ought to post a few of your sons photos here john wayne says fuck yes i think the quartz date might not go to 2023 hell yea you can use it and if it doesnt fit into your rotation you can just flip it for profit or pass it on to another photographer you can spend more on a literal paperweight so id say its a good deal favorite ps probably filled with play doh ur a jerk this is an amazing point and shoot it was one of my first film cameras and is a great alternative to the higher end point and shoots such as the yashica t4 contax t2 or even the younger brother to the olympus infinity stylus the olympus stylus epic even if it doesnt work you can always sell it for parts shit deal tell me where exactly this shop is located so i can go complain to the stores owners yeah i used to shoot styluss a bit or t4s xa1s etc i now have a t3 still adore the stylus chasing lincolns killer is definitely worth a dollar jesus currently cannot buy a t3 on a 19 year old college student salary i do have a deal set up to potential get a t2 so might try getting that then ive been shooting ps cams for a very long time doing exhibitions and stuff and got the camera when they were cheap they are not worth the current price and camera collectors are parasites no let me buy it off you for 2 i know back in the day when news photogs were still shooting film a lot of them carried point and shoots like this as a backup or for places where a large camera would draw attention ive had a few and they are solid yes its a fine camera if it works some olympus compacts go for hundreds of dollars on ebay but theyre not worth so much in my opinion would like to see that photo he shot out of curiosity ill do 5 lol this is a very good deal as it is a solid camera i think its hard to get one under 150 insanely so the stylus line is one of my personal favorites for point n shoots mines never failed me true but i will say i am glad that everyone is getting into it especially my generation who are probably the last individuals to have their baby pictures taken with analog rather than digital probably true keep in mind that iphone pix will also have their own lofi charm 20 years from now lol true sorry i should have worded it better i guess im more worried about it being worth the film i will use through it but i did pick it up didnt realize how popular the line was as i shoot mainly medium format haha no worries and congrats on the great find |
deleted | nice thanks i fucking love these clouds especially right before or after a burn especially sunset |
anyone know of a place they trust to process some black and white and color 120 rolls in la thanks | i always recommend digital photo printing and studio in glendale i havent had a bad experience at all professional photographers use them theyre great recently purchased an f3 which is what i used in another lifetime as a reporterphotographer nice to have this model of camera back developed at home scanned on an old epson perfection 3200 using vuescan cleaned up and toned in photoshop love this |
deleted | some images of our holiday trip to beaunne bourgogne france it was our 3 holiday in france and i think we finally totally fell in love with this country fiddled around with the bluesgreens a bit to get the picture to look a bit more correct and in doing so caused the texture dried developer of the print to become more noticeable since it is a polaroid it is pretty much unavoidable but is it too much i think for this photo it is too much but that is mostly due to the subject of the photo being fairly bland so what pops is the texture and not the contents of the photo yeah that is more or less what i thought a big part of the problem is that i am still trying to get used to the camera that is only the eleventh picture i have taken with it yeah it is hard to notice anything else unfortunately also make sure you are doing everything you can to get better results like controlled temp and keeping it out of the sun while developing speaking of temp what i think happened was i should have let the films temp normalize a bit after taking it out of the fridge eastern state penitentiary im not sure which part of your technique is causing this but i have only ever had similar effects when two photos have stuck together you should wait for the photo to be totally dry before you put it away for fuji the way i tell is after you have peeled the print it will curl and then as it dries it will flatten again once it is totally flat its dry the only other possible reason for there being developer left on the photo is if you have waited waaaay to long to peel the print like more than 10 to 15 minutes fp100c as with fp100b should have a high gloss finish with no residue on the print however occasionally you will get a bit left see here for examples also wed love to see your work over on rpolaroid for all instant prints not just polaroid i dont think waiting too long to peel the film caused this because i have waited just as long and in some cases way longer in the past and not had this happen that dog does not look happy getting blasted by bright light i thought the dogs name is flash badumtss nice shot bounce flash i assume i really like the look of bounce flash on film for some reason hello doggo nah i boasted it right on had to turn down the highlights a ton i just have a canon speedlite and do not really have experience with flashing but trying is the thing i guess i just got the dog in a hilarious moment definitely a hilarious moment loving this the colors and glow are beautiful thank you definitely some beautiful glow coming from the lights mixed with steam coming up from the hot springs wow what hot spring is this so ethereal crane hot springs in eastern oregon usa its been photographed in the sub in the past i think 6 years ago if memory serves me correctly this has some real climax of lost highway vibes i need to give that movie a watch thank you the light captured is fantastic the light captured is fantastic this is one of the single most beautiful photos ive ever seen wow thanks i really appreciate that did you use any sort of filter this makes me hungry for gushers i used a 1a warming filter but mostly as a lens protector awesome shot we would love to feature this on analog forever magazines instagram please message me if you are interested thanks stunning thanks love the colours |
deleted | i love slide films like ektachrome or provia but i wont recommend them for a total beginner their exposure latitude may be challenging even for someone with a fairly modern camera like a nikon f90x i would rather take a negative film for example kodak gold 200 its cheaper than portra has better colours and handles underexposure really well if you are certain you want slide film take ektachrome its more forgiving i would find a good camera store in rome and buy all of my film there have it developed and come back with negatives and slides it will be more expensive but you will not have to have two hand inspections or risk having film xrayed twice you might even buy some santa color and shoot that or some of the elusive orwo color film first time i hear of these types of film so ill check them out thanks thanks for the answer im pretty sure i want a good quality film but the kodak gold 200 doesnt sound bad actually might change the provia for gold i wouldnt be afraid of xray just remember to have your film in your carryon luggage every airport ive ever been to in europe including italy has refused to give a hand check for film tsa has it as an official policy in the states but nothing in europe im a firm believer in learning the craft before you start screwing around with different mediums focus more on photography and place less on emulsions take a bunch of portra or any other flexible colour neg and dont stress it thanks nick youre kind im not new to photography but i am new to analog if you give kodak gold a stop or two of over exposure it will be almost as sharp as portra 400 under expose it at all and it wont look great for quality tho flying out of the us i havent had issues getting my film hand checked last time i went to europe last summer i sent all my film to carmencita film lab in spain to avoid any x rays then they scanned it and mailed me back the negatives to the us niiiice this is gold info ilo check this out next time ill overexpose by onetwo stops a gold 200 i keep reading that film under 800iso isnt affected by xrays in the airport security i really want this to be true as i dont want to plan for two extra trips to a photo shop in rome as my stay is short anyway ill ask security to hand check them anyway amazing clicks lovely colors amazing thank you well i mean it was an amazing landscape much like all of mauritania luckily it was a case of take a photo reap the rewards really nice great you got the exposure even across the sky like the layers and depth thank you |
i have the option to get the pentax sfx or the pentax me super but i can only get some so im just asking yalls opinion on the matter | this is pretty tough because these two could not be much more different they are both capable of doing great work and can use the same lenses but the differences are so stark youd have to just ponder what you like and what annoys you about these you can only use the me super if you want to manually wind to the next frame you hate the weird 80s black plastic robot look spawned by the minolta 7000 that took over the industry small is what you want you can get a76 button batteries you want something actually made of metal on the outside you like the k1000 from college and want something much smaller and more advanced manual focus is your thing excellent real ground glass focusing screen x200b you can only use the sfx if you need autofocus you love the 80s you like lots of plastic geometric shapes you would rather have an lcd on top of the camera than a flash shoe you dont mind bigger cameras its a lot bigger than me super you want a motor winder integrated motor rewind motor focus motor everything you like controlling everything using little clickey electronic slider switches you had any transformers or other robot monster action figures as a kid you dont mind a camera sounding like the robots these action figures were based on this is funny but hope it helps they are both excellent cameras ah ok thanks the me super seems more my type haha i also wouldnt have much experience with what i liked in collage never been im not old enough yet haha i have a dslr but i prefer the way film looks and just the way it is really hopefully ill get a decent deal on a me super though do you know how much is too much of a rip off for one prices are nuts today some high some low few make sense but i think could be wrong 70 bucks is a common price and they can be as high as 100 or even higher i know thats vague but you never know today ok thanks what shutter speed were you using this was 2 seperate exposures on the same frame one was 115 handheld and one was 2 or 4 seconds with the camera braced against a nearby trashcan hey cool thank you i love the placement of the boat and bridge great shot thanks |
so im in a photo class and most people have the regular paper when i was buying from bh they only had warmtone in stock alas it seems that it requires longer exposure or developing and fixing or something else as if i expose and develop for as long as everyone else my prints are too light anyone have any ideas the iso of the papers seems to be the same im at a loss | ive never actually looked at the fact sheets so im not totally sure that im reading it correctly but it seems like warmtone is a stop slower than multigrade iv iso paper speed not that that actually means a whole lot since you should be doing test strips and your time will vary unless you have perfect exposures every time never use filters and your chemistry is perfect yeah ive been doing test strips i think i under developed my first print fibre paper for a class seems like a super pricey way to make mistakes maybe get a package of rc paper for test prints and practice otherwise i wouldnt necessarily worry about the iso of your paper too much if youre making test prints and have fresh chemistry itll just take a little tweaking they make rc warmtone according to ilfords documentation which is the first place you should have looked neutral tone and wt fb paper have the same dev times fb paper in general has longer dev times than rc paper are you sure you werent supposed to buy rc paper if you are leaving it in the developer for the time recommended by ilford andor the manufacturer of the developer that youre using and still getting very light prints then you need to leave it under the enlarger longer double check the f stop of the enlarging lens too also if youre in a class why wouldnt you just ask your teacher while you were there you can only ever use the same test strips from the same type of paper as your final prints are going to be every paper has a varying exposure time if its resin coated fibre based warm tone cool tone or lith print paper its all different so use the same test strips from the same type of paper as your final prints going to be as someone whos just finished their ba honours in photography at pca i hope your having fun good luck its bard theyre very serious were not allowed to use rc at all i only have one type of paper so im ok in that realm i just seem to need to expose for longer than the kids using regular fb multigrade paper i asked my teacher he wasnt sure almost everyone else has regular fb warmtone as the name suggest will give you a warmer sometimes brown tone maybe that is why it seems that you underdevelop your image some people dont like the way the warmtone prints come out because they differ some in color from regular paper the prints dont seem to look that warm to be honest hmm okay then im unsure or what it can be is it only ceartain prints that turns out underdeveloped hard to tell not seeing the actual print but id suggest making sure you use test strips it just seems that i have to expose for a lot longer than people using the other paper oh well with test strips it doesnt really matter it might be that your negatives are darker or tha you need to develop it longer well thats nonsense baryta is nice but why would you make the learning curve steeper than necessary they dont want us to develop any bad habits i guess theyre also teaching us archival washing and the like ive used both and theyre pretty much identical if i remember correctly it shouldnt matter though arent you doing test sheets it should only take one to figure out the difference yeah i am i printed some contact sheets today and i think ill be ok cool i pretty much print only warmtone now to my eyes it just looks more appealing if you feel like mixing your own dev give ilfords bromophen a try ive had great results with it wtf lol is this portra 400 this is really coolamazing use of the first preexposed shot did you do this on purpose thank mate its just a happy little accident but i always try to play around with the burnt left side of the first shot this is really nice only comment id have is that the saturation on the edge of the exposed area is so high that its distracting id mask that area and turn down the yellowredorange massively nice camera mate poor mans hasselblad and ive always been happy it what film would you rec for this camera any cheap iso 200 or 400 film will work fine being a point and shoot theres no point in going crazy with professional films this roll of kodak gold i put through it came out quite well cool thanks wasnt sure as this camera is slow iso |
hey when i scan 35mm film with the lomo digitaliza on my epson v850 i get light leaks from the sprocket holes i know its not on the negative because i can move the holder to different sides of the scanner bed and the cast changes length on one side while becoming less on the other i have been able to cover the top of the sprocket holes with some black paper and it ends up not having this cast i am wondering if there is any solution to this out there the paper solution i tried does not work very well and is a pain i am wondering if anyone out there would be able to create a 3d printed solution for this some sort of cover for the sprocket holes that can mount to the lomo digitaliza film carrier if someone knows another solution that doesnt require covering let me know i should also note that denser negatives dont have as bad of an effect | yeah i would love to know as well i have really fallen out of love with the digitaliza film holders i sent lomo an email asking if they can make a mask that covers sprocket holes doubt they will but worth a shot haha sounds like a job for the laser cutter how so cut a mask that covers the sprockets in a better material thatll just lay on top of your negatives im not sure i really want a 3d printed attachment that would hook to the hooks but idk how to do that i only have the digitaliza for 110 film and made some 3d printed enhancements for that its usually not that difficult dm me with your specific idea and ill see if i can help you out perfect ill shoot a dm after work thanks really nice composition |
deleted | i love bw tree pictures right its a little disappointing that the fog didnt show up better in the photo great colours almost ektar like saturation this goes so hard great photo i swear to god i played a counter strike map of this were afraid your post title doesnt meet the requirements for this subreddit technical information rule include the film stock lens and camera used in your post title if you do not know some of the required information state that in either the title or toplevel comment eg nikon f3 50mm f18 unknown film or use found film for auctionthrift store finds family photos and so on the reason we ask for this information is that you can only search on the content of post titles not comments we encourage you to resubmit with that information we have built up quite a database of different cameras lenses and films over the years reddit doesnt allow you to search on comments so keeping these keywords in the title is the only way to search for them thank you the mods really love the almost vignette look of 1 gorgeous shot this is magesterial 50mm lens that mazda cosmo is so cool paterson new jersey neat wow how did you find this right behind me in this photo is my grandpas family grave he just passed a couple months ago i shot 5 rolls of film in 3 days honestly i was just curious about the name since ive never heard of it before it just happened to be one of the first results awesome love cemeteries just make it 6x6 and bingo your wish is my command very nice love the square format thank you its a bit of a lost art now that covers arent so much of a thing any more beautiful picture need save wdym thousands of songs are released daily and all include unique cover art i liked their earlier stuff better awesome did you shoot this at f11 f8 probably i was using the minox as more of a point and shoot since its a viewfinder camera and i dont like having to guess whats in focus not sure what shutter speed since it handles that automatically well sure but thats online and people dont seem to look at online art with much regard i know vinyl is still being produced but i dont buy it i dont miss the scratches noise and maintenance but when i was younger you really did look at an album cover especially something interesting like sergeant pepper i see what youre saying but id argue that the vast majority of art is consumed as online art now whole generations have grown up consuming art solely online the pandemic was even more of a set back as someone who both has come to love art from the internet follows reddits like this for cool photography and also designs art and shares it on the internet for a wider audience i think there very much is an appreciation for all of the same elements of art on the internet as there wouldve been in person its just taken a different form something about seeing all that come to life in the physical is still very special if not more now but i really think that if anybody cares about art theyre going to appreciate it whether its digital or physical or anything in between cheers something about this photo looks really nice and i like the fact that the family names are so diverse and the graves are older removed if the cover of innerspeaker was expanded did you use any filters for this one nope no filters the colors came out really strange and editing them got this result hahahaha yes i totally see that welp time to write the grunge album great shot ellsworth crap love the lighting captured feel like a final boss fight is about to happen here harry potter vibes ill allow it um what camera lens and film did you shoot this with i believe just a refillable point and shoot its an older photo so not fully sure simple but striking were afraid your post title doesnt meet the requirements for this subreddit technical information rule include the film stock lens and camera used in your post title if you do not know some of the required information state that in either the title or toplevel comment eg nikon f3 50mm f18 unknown film or use found film for auctionthrift store finds family photos and so on the reason we ask for this information is that you can only search on the content of post titles not comments we encourage you to resubmit with that information we have built up quite a database of different cameras lenses and films over the years reddit doesnt allow you to search on comments so keeping these keywords in the title is the only way to search for them thank you the mods castillo de san marcos is a cool place ft matanzas is also worth visiting thanks for the info id heard about matanzas sadly missed it this time ill be sure to visit when i go back to the states hopefully next year i love staugustine ive gotten very beautiful landscapes photos there its beautiful every few years i get to visit the states and its always a staple for me this time specifically was the first time that i went with photographic intent so i really got to see the town in such a different way haha i took the exact same first photo you did except on my iphone except mine was horrible compared to yours because of how harsh the lighting was nice shots hello ive bought this camera a few weeks ago i put two rolls in then dropped it it continued working but then it completely stopped working anyone knows have an idea whats happening these lights are still one but nothing works remove and replace the battery already done it didnt work sadly repair is the next step there is still people that repair point shoots even with the electronics and all i had a faulty konica big mini 302 and had a burnt transistor and was lucky enough to find a camera repair shop in the philippines that fixed it for around 40 i believe so i dont know how well or the prices though thank you for your help reposting yall this reminds me of an picture from the youtuber grainydays botanical gardens he just posted a video from this same spot last week bad flashes and trev lee both just went there at thanksgiving as well belle isle conservatory this is so cool thank you as always show the negatives if you have them if not its probably light leaks from bad camera seals red means light is likely entering from the backside of the camera and passing through the film backing right it looks like the film was exposed to light outside the camera you can see shadows of sprocket holes as if the film was loosely coiled when light hit the film i dont think youd get these loose coils incamera you say the issues are present on the negative in which case its not an issue with the film scans but the film itself looks like the back of the camera was opened at some point and exposed everything to light hence all the red and the shadow images of the sprocket holes all i can pay attention to is madeye moody beautiful capture love it just the one flash or multiple this is incredible very surreal and nostalgic feeling i love it this is awesome i want it to be my desktop background the final resting place of oren ishii this is a beautiful photo well done ive been eyeing up a contax slr recently flipping between an rx or an n1 how do you like the nx as it is similar to the n1 and you dont see many people using them thank you so much i only used the built in flash on the contax nx there was a street light that helped out a lot you lie i found this camera lens combo at an estate sale for 130 i personally didnt like the way the menus are laid out but ive gotten use to it and its one of my favorite 35mm to shoot the lens is really sharp i do wish i had the ability to do double exposures on this camera though perhaps i do and im not aware of how but ive taken a look at the manual and didnt see any info ive been torn between a cy mount camera such as the rx because the lenses are less expensive than the n mount but im intrigued by the autofocus and matrix metering on the n1 and may be satisfied with only having the one zooms lens as ive heard it is very good thats not a bad deal on that at all a good find yeah the 2485mm gets about everything i need done i will say that the camera started to have some trouble on one shot but other than that it worked very well in the cold ive read that this particular camera doesnt do well in the cold so i was a bit afraid nice work deleted thank you stunning makes me miss my n system thank you amazing 1010 would hang on my wall i can make it available as a print if youd like to deleted thanks very much thank you the deep blue adds so much drama to the scene i love it thank you holy shit this is magical thank you well done great shot but im not really a fan of leaving the film edge in i know a lot of posts are doing that lately it doesnt serve any purpose beyond highlighting that you used analog it just feels a little cheesy love your composition though edit a lot of people stating their opinions as objective fact i agree with some of it i still dont like it i dont think its necessary and it takes away from whats a very well composed and developed photograph in my opinion youre not going to catch me trying to pretend like my opinion is better than everybody elses unlike some of you removed this is great ive seen many poorly executed versions of this you nailed it and i love that you left the rebate in to me it says i created it within these constraints using an analogue process it also psychologically feels fuller since it shows the the image is uncropped the land line adds to the vintage feel this could have been created anywhere from the introduction of the film stock to today great shot you pushed the film or just shot it box speed its just a nice way to tell everyone what film you used i like it here it shows that you made the composition decisions in camera rather than in post havent shot portra in a while but why is the rebate text green kim wexler vibes with the lighting thank you i shot at box speed used a spotmeter to measure the light i didnt state an opinion i just stated a reason why its often done here is my opinion photo borders are often as important to the composition as the photo itself at all points throughout the process its important for me to envision the final product for display sometimes that involves film register sometimes a messy border from an oversized enlarger carrier and sometimes using the paper itself as a strong border in my opinion it works here but im not a fan of the color correction being visible in the rebate film noir the sphinx observatory yes indeed was a lovely place |
x200b yashica 635 yashikor 80mm f35 ilford hp5 f56 1250s x200b kodak brownie no2 model f ilford delta 400 f16 150s ive just started film photography and noticed that i seem to be getting a dark band on one side of almost every photo usually with a wavy edge more obvious in photos with sky or a solid tone you can see it on the left hand side of the swan photo and in the sky of the big wheel photo so in both cases its along one edge of the entire roll of film the swan was photographed with a yashica 635 using ilford hp5 and the big wheel was taken on a kodak brownie no2 model f with ilford delta 400 so i dont think its camera or film stock related one film was squeegeed the other was dried with gloved fingers so i dont think its that both were hung vertically to dry over night both were developed in a paterson spiral tank with stock strength undiluted ilford id11 ilfostop and ilford rapid fixer all times accurate with 4 inversions per minute the tank says to use 590ml of chemicals for a single 120 roll i used 600ml the chemicals were fresh for the big wheel and third use for the swan any idea what is causing this i suspect it may be developer related or something to do with the spiral spool but unsure x200b | is it on the negs and definitely not a scanner issue if it is on the negs then it could be the squeeging or your fingers leaving marksdamaging the emulsion running anything along the negs can cause an issue try a 30sec wash in photo flo after your main wash and hang somewhere to air dry best place is a bathroom after running the shower hot for a few mins to remove dust from the air good point ill check negatives when i get home ill invest in some wetting agent too something else i thought of is that maybe the spiral reel floated jumped in the tank lifting part of the film out of the chemicals might also be worth using slightly more than 600ml of chemicals next time too to make sure everything is submerged ive never had problem like that when using 600ml for 120 my reels stay very firm once they are pushed down on the spindle youd be able to feel it if it was loose its hard to see but definitely there on the negatives i loaded up my tank yesterday filled it with water and gave it a few inversions and sometimes the reel would slide up and stay there which may be the problem i think the tolerance between spindle and reel is not quite right its loose enough to potentially move but tight enough to sometimes stay up when it does so i made a petg spacer that fits on top of the reel and prevents it from lifting more than a couple of mm hopefully thatll fix it without causing any more issues or reacting with the chemicals just got to remember to fit the spacer in the dark now sounds like youve found the issue good luck i developed a roll with the new spacer last night and the problem seems to have disappeared so anyone having similar problems should definitely check that the reels cant ride up the spindle thanks for helping me figure this out glad it worked out these are gorgeous that top frame in particular is a fav the waves look so clean theres a golf course that meanders along those cliffs if you can believe it there was always the story if you could find a golf ball along the beach and take it back theyd pay you we spent ages trying to find balls there as kids haha jeez so gorgeous would be incredibly cool printed ultramax really pulling through here |
deleted | i dig this it would make a great print beautiful tones and reflection woah this is such an incredible photo it elicits a very mysterious but inviting atmosphere 0 beautiful marvelous scenery this photo is a scene straight out of a highfantasy novel beautiful shot beautiful deep and rich nice job you achieved creepy tranquility with the right light nice pic lovley shot makes me want to throw myself into it and see whats up those stairs classic tassie photo where is this thanks thank you so much it truly is hard to shoot a bad frame in such a beautiful place on the pieman river in tasmania took this from a kayak it is the entrance up to a beautiful waterfall trail called lovers falls nowhere else like it honestly |
deleted | photo source there is nothing 90s about that style you could choose a vintage film processing and then add sepia toning i see 90s clothing and a style of photograph that could be from any point in the 20th century check out the phone in his hand i miss antennas looks like peel apart instant film it is peel part film specifically a type that used the polaroid brand coating solution which was in this case is incorrectly or unevenly applied the yellowing is due to atmospheric pollutants attacking the image surface side note if you have the back of this image i could potentially give you a production date based on the manufacturing code on the back gang lighting 1x ad600pro camera left with 120cm octabox 1x ad600pro with gridded diffused beauty dish behind backdrop 1x ad600pro behind camera into white wall as bounce light 1x ad300pro with aputure spotlight mount camera left outstanding work op the first and third images are the best of the bunch in terms of posing and exposure excellent beautiful shots loving these deleted deleted what focussing screen do you use no idea the same one i bought from the guy selling |
im trying to get a nice build thats good for traveling and wont destroy my wallet i am open to rangefinders any help is appreciated | sure id be happy to help here are some things to consider when choosing a camera for traveling size and weight when youre traveling youll want a camera that is compact and lightweight so it doesnt take up too much space in your luggage or weigh you down image quality its important to have a camera that produces highquality images so you can capture all of your memories in beautiful detail look for a camera with a large image sensor which will allow for better lowlight performance and more detail in your photos lens options consider a camera that has a versatile lens selection so you can capture a range of subjects and scenes a rangefinder camera is a good choice for traveling because it allows you to quickly and accurately focus on your subject even when its moving durability when youre traveling youll want a camera that can withstand the rigors of being on the road so consider a camera that is built to last price of course youll also want to consider your budget when choosing a camera for traveling there are plenty of great options at various price points so you should be able to find something that fits your needs and your budget here are a few rangefinder camera options that might be good choices for traveling leica m10 this is a highend rangefinder camera that is known for its excellent image quality and durable build its a bit on the expensive side but its worth it for serious photographers fujifilm xpro3 this rangefinder camera has a unique design and produces great images thanks to its large image sensor its also relatively compact and lightweight making it a good choice for traveling olympus penf this is a more budgetfriendly option that still offers excellent image quality and a range of lens options its also lightweight and compact making it easy to take on the road i hope these suggestions are helpful let me know if you have any other questions did a bot right this sure reads like it did edit it did ew get out of here ranalogcommunity for questions i am a human i am not a bot you are deeply mistaken exactly what a bot would say think what you want opinion is the cheapest commodity in the world this was absolutely written by chat gpt or similar it has its style and thought op wanted something digital shoo bot |
hi im fairly new to analog photography and i was gifted a konica super up 110 i took about ten pictures before i left it in the hands of a friend of mine who opened the slr camera revealing the film when closing it the film rewound and the counter at the top returned to 1 is this normal how not to lose the photos already taken and avoid overprinting i was thinking of taking a photo of a black piece so as not to create an overlay corresponding to the number of photos already taken no hate please im new and trying to understand the konica thank you | if the back was opened it is more than likely the first 10 shots are ruined just by the sheer amount of light let in through the back anyway cover the lens up completely and take ten shots and continue from frame 11 or 12 thanks for the advice if you dont mind me asking where was this taken in leeds uk must have been mid november this year ahhh thought so i used to walk the same route myself gravelly point nice shot well spotted thanks beat me to it by 7 hours thats like one lf those spontaneous shots you just fall in love with thank you where in canada good dog love the contrast and the lighting nice shapes thanks love the colours in this thanks |
deleted | bro this is either a high quality shit post based on a previous discussion or you have no self awareness removed op is deffo making an arse out of himself man my reaction was to say wtf out loud and start laughing wow i hardly see any post from pentax 110 well done thanks ill have you know its the super version becauselike super i took these shots whilst going for a walk in a forrest nearby we found a part of the forrest during sunrise with crazy bright green moss on it photo 1 was taken a little later than photo 2 which gives it the yellow cast i can not decide which picture i like best although the moss is brighter in photo 2 i like the composition of photo 1 better also theres more contrast in photo 1 which makes it a bit more interesting to me both are cool though thank you for your feedback much appreciated i agree that i like the composition of photo 1 quite a lot better looks fine maybe some slight straightening but this is cool thank you thats such a cool and unique photo love it this gives off shin noguchi vibes i like it thanks hes actually one of my favourite photographers i follow on ig thank you spam warning deleted the shadows anything below maybe zone 3 has pretty noisy grain compared to the flagship stocks portra ektar i really like the colors though because when shooting fall colors with portra its almost too pastel and lacks saturation and pop ektar is perfect for that but for its price low speed and lack of dynamic range compared to portra or gold i feel like gold has a place i would only use the stock when shooting saturated outdoor colors as theres a bit of a bias towards the green side portra is pretty balanced with muted reds and ektar is more brownred heavy tldr good stock for general use dont underexpose this film especially will continue to use it for its good value highline not quite sure where highline is but wasnt taken there at an ikea probably right next to a roadside toilet p would explain why everything grew so well there d the film is a few years old develop it at home how diafine is very simple and quick youll need some fairly cheap equipment if you arent going to develop more than 1 roll ever maybe find someone that develops at home well do you know the colour code of this film in order for me to do it ive never heard of a color code for bw film do they mean isoasa theres no such thing as a colour code for bw film the lab you went to is run by idiots its bw film black and white not colour develop it in any bw chemistry i use hc110 and rodinal but any alternative will do i think they are asking for the chemistry process its not a c41 film if they are asking you that question they are sending your roll out to some place that still develops using an automatic machine theyll also keep your negatives you will have to develop your roll manually doesnt matter its not listed in the current or obsolete sections of the massive dev chart or at film rescue if it came in a little box that box may have developing instructions inside if it was mine id probably treat it like any other iso 10021 bw film whatever developer i happen to have mixed look up a few similar films in the massive dev chart take the average time and go for it all that said people develop old or found film all the time if you have a university nearby with an art department chances are theyll have a lab where you can get it developed maybe by paying a student there good luck the lab guy probably meant dx code what about gluing a dx code to the canister so the film processor recognize the roll what do you mean by colour code this is quite certainly efke kb100 which while long expired can definitely be developed i used to just develop that film with d76 it would turn out a little grainy but i like that in my bw film thank you for this so the place i go to use a machine to develope the film so i think thats where im a bit stuck can it be developed within a machine the place i go to uses a machine so thats why they werent sure so is it able to be developed within a machine so it cant be processed without the dx code if the lab has a black and white processing machine then yes no its black and white film the machine the lab has is a colour negative machine im 999 sure so it cannot be developed in that machine as the process is very different it still can be developed by hand the old fashioned way with black and withe chemicals the dx code or whatever the lab was telling you has nothing to do with it i wont trust a lab that fails to explain or understand the difference between colour negative film and black and white film what for c41 process is the same for every film stock okay sounds good thank you so much i think your best bet will be looking up for someone who develops film at home getting them a small 100ml bottle of rodinal as courtesy and having it stand developped nope must be developed by hand thats not a c41 roll and i have no idea why theyd need a dx code maybe the clerk was just clueless thats ekfe kb100 dev times are out there and easy to find i did some searching around and jessops croatiamade film was apparently rebranded efke this one specifically efke kb100 dx code 002724 developing info freestyle photo efke kb100 i know its so weird im with you i think it was just a clueless employee i think i found the employee not unless they have a machine specifically set up for black and white film so if i could print this dx codeonto the film i can put it thru a c41 machine processor sure you can put it through a c41 machine but do not expect anything more than a clear totally bleached film and possibly clogging the machine with lifting gelatine no the vast majority of bw films should not be processed with c41 chemicals do they have just the one machine or separate equipment i worked at a 1hour lab in college that only had one and we did not accept bw at all the regular process would destroy it is there another lab you can go to or a reputable mailin lab you can send your film to or can you at least try to talk to a manager at the lab its kind of concerning that theyre not able to explain this to you properly i had coworkers like that and they regularly did things like lose film fill the chemicals in the wrong tanks etc and did not care at all that the customers never got to see their images made in croatia interesting does anyone know more about the production center for this film actually i may have discovered send it to analogue wonderland for developing theyll know what to do lol you dont need a dx code to develop filmits 100 iso so just put it in some bw developer for about 78 mins and hope for the best pretty sure its efke a brand of film i genuinely miss all black and white films get processed somewhat differently but the massive dev chart has it here some labs do black and white processing though but if its not a set of very valuable images its worth learning how to do me sticking my hand into the jobo tank during agitation something to clarify here traditional black and white films need to be processed in chemicals for black and white films there are some newer black and white films that can be processed in standard color processing chemicals commonly called c41 processing its chemically a color film but you get a monotone black and white negative some actually have a slight green tint to them the big benefit is that you dont need special chemistry and many more places can develop the film not that it matters but slide film requires its own chemistry commonly called e6 processing for the amount of questions and time youve spent here stressing over a way to get your local shop to develop your bw you could just mail the film off to one of many reputable shops that can process bw film without any questions or hassle thedarkroomcom has been great they can develop just about anything or just send it to a shop that can handle it thedarkroomcom should have no issue and wont require you to buy materials to develop this is so weird why are the only options to develop by hand many mail in shops will process this and return your negatives youre right but i dont know any labs that would do stand dev willingly mostly because it takes 1 hour its not a c41 film for christ sakes dont do this yup and they process it by hand color negative and slide film are standardized processes c41 e6 that are automated and processed by machine all c41 and e6 films process the same regardless of film speed brand etc this is a roll of traditional bw film processing is not standard every roll is different so it cannot be machine processed it doesnt need to be stand developed just process like regular bw it cant be processed in a c41 machine there are machines that can handle bw but yes most of the time its done manually the op doesnt have to develop this themselves or do it at home like many are suggesting just take it to a real developing shop sure many labs can do this its not unusual but many labs only have minilabs for c41 which is why op cant use the lab they want to bw too have dx codes maybe they have an automated dip dunk processor that needs it or the clerk was just clueless after my 3year hiatus of not shooting film i finally decided to get back into it im not really comfortable shooting film has a month was before so criticism is greatly appreciated its in the deutsche pavillon barcelona isnt it yes the mies van der rohe pavilion mine comes tomorrowim really curious to hear everyones opinion because this thing gets rave reviews i guess it depends on what do you really want of the lens to do i still think the ai nikkor 1435 and 2028 to be unbeatable for their pictorial quality ive only used voigtlander on rangefinders they are good lenses but it would be hard to top a lot of the old nikkors for slr lenses id only bother if it did something i couldnt get a nikon lens to do or if the price availability was better awesome use of ultramax awesome use of a zenit thanks haha thank you great idea im stealing this since youre using a zenit first one is awesome dude feels like a sofia coppola movie haha is the correct translation of this phrase thank you omggggg que bonita thank you awesome this is properly good work thank you for appreciation thank you for sharing and letting us appreciate your work this is amazing i was wondering how did you scan the photos thanks in the photo lab would you be open to share the original shot before the black and white conversion quite a chairy photo the composition is great the colors are not bad either sure when i took the picture i already intended to convert it to black and white as i unfortunately did not have bw film on me at the time the colors are really bland and uninspiring the shapes and shades really are what make this image for me what would be the best way for me to show you the image i could send it to you directly if you like thanks for your interest in my picture thanks i appreciate that ill be looking forward to your pm |
i shot with a red filter on my ae1 for the first time a couple of different rolls and some wolfman all of the shots have lots of noise loss of detail i cant tell what is causing it is it underexposed there is lots of detail in other areas even some dark areas like over on the far right of the image i thought it was the lab developing but its not happening on other rolls i have tried several different scan settings it happens every time so i am pretty sure its from the filter and something i did wrong | that 100 looks like digital artifacts im also not sure why youve circled those three areas in red as can literally see it everywhere i also see a lot of nasty color fringing how exactly are you scanning look at the negatives youll see the issue isnt present on there the issue is caused by using dust removal software on black and white film turn that off and the issue will disappear ok thank you i will give that a try using epson scan with a v600 i was not sure how obvious the issue was so i circled areas in red to call attention to areas where it is most extreme that sure did work but now my scans are dusty as heck is there a middle ground at all not really whatever doesnt come away using a rocket blower needs to be removed manually in post for black and white gotcha thanks revilbuildings wants a chat hp5 shot 1600 developed in hc110 b for 11 minutes 20c beautiful shot palm tree and analog photography now youre speaking my language more pls wow that is crisp thank you all credit goes to hp5 and this streetlight i was shocked when i saw the negative i thought the shot would be cool but the way hp5 rendered this is quite cool 4th and king could post to rsanfranciscoanalog now ive just noticed the very thin layer of shadowing on the first and that annoys me little bit too much headspace too unsure sorry for the rambling thoughts ive began chasing critique and feedback for the first time so i can learn more crop more intense for me crop crop but even more off the bottom and right crop crop no crop for me the dark shadow in the top left corner makes it more balanced yeah ive come around to that too thanks thank you agreed now hadnt even been in my consideration but now i see it great shout thanks yeah that meh space look pretty sizeable now my only concern is cutting it too close to the man in the back who i like having there removed white crop sorry what do you mean messed up my scan in the second one whoopsie source and all credit goes to the bodega by thai diner with all the photo books love that place yuup spot on this almost seems like a surrealist image or painting the perspective is trippy well done thank you amazing colors dont shoot tgrain if you do |
im stuck between a contax t2 minolta cle or use the money to get a medium format | im obsessed with wanting a fuji gw690iii 1200 what whenever a number is stated without a currency it is always an american talking in usd they always seem oblivious to the dozens of other currencies and even different dollars cad aud etc dinar whats more important to you convenience or control no camera focus on rent bills and food kid i would not blow money on a point and shoot thatll inmevitably die i would buy a simple mechanical slr for a couple hundred or less eg canon ftb that can be repaired work without a light meter they also innevitably die and spend the rest on lenses film or maybe a scanning set up or i would buy a medium format camera there is a huge range of options and style so its impossible to recommend something without more context about your needs whatever you do focus on lenses they create the image not the body if i had 1200 for a hobby id spend no more than 500 on all the equipment and the rest for film processing and maybe even travel im more of a used equipment kind of person all you need is one or two good lenses i wouldnt get a medium format bc then youd have no money left over for film lol eta i didnt realize those models were point and shoot hard no for that money slr with full manual control all the way or get a lessthan100 ps if youre a beginner get a canon slr3 and see if you wanna keep going with it if not you have a good hobbyistvacation camera nikon f2f3fm an ai prime lens lots of film and developing the minolta is a rangefinder i want a leica eventually bc i do street photography mostly and wanted to try a more affordable rangefinder out first but i also love the convenience paired with the image quality of the contax i do plan on traveling lots this summer so i wanna invest in a camera that will give me sharp images so i can just focus on composition i wanna travel lots this year and also mainly do street photography in my free time i want something light weight and convenient for travel but also something that doesnt sacrifice image quality i wanna know the sharpness is there and just focus on composition tbh convenience and image quality tbh so i like some electronics and also just wanna shoot without worrying too much about image quality i wanna capture quick moments and creatively work with compositions i get bogged down by too many manual settings lol i gotta have a hobby too i actually got a nikon f not really looking for an slr more so a rangefinder or point and shoot that is sharp what are your reasons dollars not really into big digital set ups although i did consider the fuji digital line since they are sleeker and more portable do you have previous experience with an analog film camera edit sorry just saw your profile and you do go with contax t2 if you want but remember its not the tool that makes the artist yeah they are pretty little cameras but im scared they arent worth the investment but ive always wanted to try out carl zeiss glass rollei 35 has entered the chat well if you want to save up for a gfx with ziess glass would be an amazing set up you might need a little more money but both those options you listed contax or the minolta would make some excellent investments in my opinion they call it the texas leica its a rangefinder that has a huge 6x9 negative without doing a ton of research perhaps a voigtlander bessa r2 would suffice i own a minolta cle solid camera fuji ga645 can also be an option lots of small slrs for that much better to get say an olympus om and a nice lens than a way overpriced pns hahah thats actually one on my list way more affordable too us there are multiple countries that use the dollar so you probably dont want a medium format camera mostly theyre big and heavy and some are fiddly to use that means theyre not very inconspicuous for street photography and annoying to travel with folders are small but limited and again draw attention i wouldnt take a point and shoot as my only travel camera again the risk of it failing on you is high i would aim for a small slr that can operate mechanically again light meters and autofocus will often fail on these old cameras theyre decades old remember you could also look for a rangefinder they tend to be very small i have a canonet ql19 i like a lot it was about 15th of the price of the slightly faster ql17 you could aim for a model that has autoexposure and autofocus options but your camera doesnt know how you want to focus or expose its making an educated guess i have shot with modern sony and canon cameras which have far more sophisticated autofocus and autoexposure than analog cameras and found them unsatisfactory often enough that i will prefer to shoot manually most of the time again aim for something that lets you shoot without thinking but try to learn to expose and focus quickly i can do both of those things while composing my photo it only takes me more time when i need to use a separate light meter all the light meters on any analog camera ive ever used has failed eventually sharpness comes from your lens it has zilch to do with your camera unless you set the shutter speed for a moving subject or you shakey hands wrong pentax 67 with 105mm 24 there is nothin inherent in a leica that makes it better for street photography haha theyre beautiful cameras with nice glass and im sure they feel great to use but rangefinders at a fraction of the price will perform just as well pro photo connection just posted they have a couple rb67s for sale 600 each canon f1 with incredible lenses such as the 50mm 14 17mm f4 and 100mm 28 this should cover all your bases and allow you to get some film too check my history for some photos taken with these combos how much did you pay for it was it an investment that was worth it i hate how steep the prices are i could get a hasselblad with the same amount of money yes and then you can get an olympus xa with what is left over lol more or less the same price as the minolta cle and it seems like a better investment tbh any recommendations dang ill look into it i am not a big rangefinder person i like my canonet but thats where my experience ends but you will find about 1000 blog posts and reddit threads on the subject funny enough i traded for it paid about 900 for the fuji ga645 and traded it for the cle i like how compact it is and that its m mount nothing too special about the camera the meter only works if you are in aperture priority though contax t2 covers everything you want and need street konica iiia review in use if you want smaller minolta himatic 7s ii review in use medium format voigtlnder perkeo ii review in use why do you want to buy a 269 kg 59 lb rb67 if you want something small and light for travel honestly yeah i think ill save to get a newer one too i own a leica m236 contax t2 rb67 pentax 67 and few other cameras in my personal experience of shooting street photography the last couple of years these are my personal favorite cameras olympus mju i absolutely amazing ps with great image quality i take it everywhere i go since its so compact has a flash and shell design give me piece of mind that i be a little more rough with it you can opt for the mju ii for the faster 28 lens but i dont think it would be worth the price difference personally minolta x700 this was my very first film camera that i picked up from a thrift store and came with a 50mm 17 perks very lightweight aperture priority exposure compensation self timer an amazing selection of glass that can be found relatively inexpensive the image quality is superb in my opinion nikon f3 this camera is so fcking amazing i couldnt recommend it enough perks it has a really good weightsturdiness to it interchangeable viewfinders interchangeable focus screens aperture priority exposure compensation buttery smooth film advancing thats so satisfying if my m6 is a 1010 film advance then the f3 is a 9810 imo superior quality glass i got a 35mm 14 50mm 14 85mm 14 for a fraction of a modern leica lens im sure there are lots and lots of other cameras that are just as good and if not better this is just from my personal experience it easy to get gas gear acquisition syndrome tying to find the best camera i now understand when people say the best camera is the one in your hand except for the canon ae1 that shit is overrated and overpriced goodluck and happy shooting not to travel with lol sounds like a plan this you wrote in another post convenience and image quality tbh so i like some electronics and also just wanna shoot without worrying too much about image quality i wanna capture quick moments and creatively work with compositions i get bogged down by too many manual settings so unless you are a collector i really do not understand what you really want i got rid of my dslr and bought a leica t series with a leica zoom for 800 i got a lens and camera combination that its difficult to top you also get access to a vast array of leica lenses you can get adapters for different fits but you will be paying far more for the lens than the camera body nikon fm3a definitely the film is cheaper the results speak for themselves thank you i have a few questions tho so you prefer the mju as a point and shoot over your contax and also for someone getting into leicas do you recommend the 2 or 3 model i personally preferred the mju over the contax the contax i felt like i needed to be more cautious with it the image quality on the contax was great but not enough to justify the cost difference for the price of t2 i could buy a couple mjus as for the leica m2 vs m3 it depends on the focal lengths you want to shoot i like that i could use the 35mm on the m2 wo the googles or evf the m2 also offers a rapid reload system that you can get for it the m3 offers the single stroke or double stroke models while the m2 only offers single stoke dont forget about the leica cl minolta cle both really great mmount rf cameras for street photography you can use the 284090mm framelines these bodies lenses can be found a bit cheaper too in some cases every one of these shots i take it youre a fan of ansel adams edit im not accusing you of stealing shots he had a very specific style that occurred during the development process of both the film and the actual photographs but the shots themselves the things he photographed and the view points from where he initially shot his images youve clearly been paying attention and traveled alot ahah i will take that as a very big compliment but thats probably just a lot of luck from me ive heard the name from ranalogcommunity and know from there how important he is in photography but i havent had a look at his work yet the premise was more that i took my medium format to the mountain because i imagined it would look great on the big negs and the washi s because i love that film and i was convinced the high contrast is perfect for snowy landscapes great shots but i cant help but feel if you used a different film theyd be better ive got a roll of washi z ive not shot with because it feels like theres never the right time to give it a go keep up the good work though and well done on the experimenting holy contrast very nice honestly you capture the soul of rehoboth on the off season dead eerie too quiet and soulless edit you have mastered liminalism wow thank you i actually love rehoboth more in winter than summer is it brown you could try and develop 12 minutes at 25 degrees or 20 minutes for 20 degrees it made a huge improvement for me on expired color film ill try it i love rehoboth in the winter its the best i adore being able to see the vericolor backing through the photo on 2 every single one of these looks like an album cover these look so good looks like the album cover to a grunge band lol i love the beaches in delaware personally a fan of bethany that was really cool almost gives it a collage feel thanks but its all the film yeah it does do not be so modest the tool does not define the artist these are great random story i bought a few rolls of tmax maybe trix in india a few months ago they were from 2017 shot one roll and every photo came back like this googled it and found out there was an entire production run that had this defect no wonder they hadnt sold for half a decade haha removed those are crazy i like it i grew up every summer at rehoboth wow wow how has your experience been with tiffen filters anything you notice compared to more expensive options looking to get some and glad to see someone else getting great shots with one really cane review much i never shot compared to other higher end filters but i believe they act the same this filter was about 80 i cant imagine a much more expensive one but i enjoyed shooting with it will definitely put more rolls through it if you look at my page i have another shot with the set up thank you for the feedback for sure looking into getting some amazing the plant reaching for light really makes this shot tell a story nice one thank you cheers mate i appreciate it nos faltan mas fotos de la espaa rural en este sub este es mxico rural no espaa es verdad que repetimos los nombres de ciudades no pensaba q habria una valladolid mexicana sabes si existe soria en mexico trying to meet some fellow film shooters in chicago dm me if youd be up for a film chat |
kodak proimage100 and pentax kx | hey cjohnread please remember to include the camera lens and film in the post title in the future we ask for this information to be included in the title of the post because its not possible to search for this information if its in the comments section or if you have to read the film type off the rebate we have built up a pretty good database of posts over the last decade of images produced using specific cameras lenses and film all of which can be searched on using the search feature in this subreddit but if this information isnt included in the title it cant be searched on if you are uncertain of the rules you can find them listed here its not possible to edit a title once a post is made so include the missing detail in a comment please thanks the mod team thank you pentaxkx 50mm 14 kodak proimage 100 hnnnnnnnnnng this is so good hey thanks its one i have printed and hung above my desk great shot was this a crop or pano stitch in post just a crop beautiful thanks love the colors in this the leaves reflection on the ground o was there a traffic light to your left haha i think thats just the wet leaves reflecting the streetlight above them no traffic lights here crazy i love that really like this so grainy this gives me anxiety it gave me some anxiety thinking about having random double exposures with this camera nice shot did you use a tripod for this one unfortunately not i guess thats why its a bit blurry as for critique i feel like this lacks focus pardon the pun like if your intent is to show me the the street as a whole then the comp is a little too messy and chaotic since there is no clear subject im drawn to the guy in the exact middle but theres nothing special about him it could have been nice lighting but without a clearly defined subject i feel like the picture is lost and confused i like the tones on the right and it may have been better to focus on that transition between the cool and warm light and parked cars idk it feels a like a nothing photo to me thank you for your feedback thanks for your graciousness critique theres no subject it feels like a google maps street view photo also whats in focus it seems like the white crosswalk line closest to the camera is in focus the title makes the photo a letdown while this may be one of the busiest streets on the planet its not busy at all in this photo theres one car waiting at the light and four pedestrians crossing i suggest deciding which aspect you think tells a story and getting way way way closer i agree on your critique you can only take wide unfocused environmental street shots at night if you do it in a 10k camera the title makes the photo a letdown i had the same problem when i started i havent gotten better at photography ive just stopped titling my shots which place in china is it good photo i like the night grain and the urban environment god joob hennessey road with the goose neck bridge canal road flyover in view causeway bay hong kong i used to work just a bit further down the road thanks everyone for your comments that was my first attempt using mechanical slr with manual focus ill take these in for my future shots welcome to night city i love the colors quite lovely great lighting but that lamp is gonna block the game lol i love the colours in this beautiful shot ya moved it over temporarily for the aesthetic i do love 400h colours thanks ooo that last shot is the icing on the cake hey loeport please remember to include the camera lens and film in the post title in the future we ask for this information to be included in the title of the post because its not possible to search for this information if its in the comments section or if you have to read the film type off the rebate we have built up a pretty good database of posts over the last decade of images produced using specific cameras lenses and film all of which can be searched on using the search feature in this subreddit but if this information isnt included in the title it cant be searched on if you are uncertain of the rules you can find them listed here its not possible to edit a title once a post is made so include the missing detail in a comment please thanks the mod team deleted deleted the parthenon 08032022 the parthenon was constructed as a celebration of victory over persian invaders construction finished in 432 bc where it was primarily used as worshipping grounds for the goddess athena today the popular attraction brings in 16000 visitors daily i like deleted is that the new crimson permanent assurance building dig the photo its the socalled musebunker in berlin a former science lab from the charit but it will sadly be demolished ohhh nice can you link to any other wolfen nc500 photos your taken loving looking at other people images while i wait for my rolls to turn up my kind of path shot this back in 2019 with the 645 back on my rb mine has a quirk when it winds so sometimes you get overlapping frames this was all accidental but i always liked how it came out crazy how the reds come out on ektar even with me being red colorblind i can see how good it is very cool heh nice how is manual focusing with it pretty much how i felt getting it back left it at my mothers house about this time last year and only had my d50 for company since nice to get this chunk of metal and plastic back pain in the arse i need to get a splitcircle viewfinder are there nikon ones or would you have to get an aftermarket thing i think ill have to get an aftermarket one the electronic viewfinder works perfectly fine its just not as good for fast manual focus katzeye makes a good one with a split circle and a prism ring is that the 28mm 28 mf nikkor just picked that up for my f100 love it close its the 2428 nikkor thanks ill have to check it out nice and upvote for the ansel adams book prism rings are where its at split circles can be slightly off if youre in a hurry but prism rings are either clear or for lack of a better way to describe it pixilated im just used to focusing with the splitcircle on my nikkormat whats the difference between the two a prism ring has a split circle with a ring of microprisms around it the prisms diffract light until the area that they cover is in focus basically until the range that they are covering is dead focused its completely blown its for me at least a much faster way to manually focus edit the guy is a little annoying but the video explains it better than i did ive never been able to do anything with these things its very difficult for me to judge if they are really perfectly transparent with split image rangefinder however i only need to judge if two lines meet which i find much easier the downside is of course when there arent any lines so a slight recompose is often required which naturally introduces its own set of inaccuracies i tend to rock the view ever so slightly while focusing on a slight detail until it no longer becomes distorted while i move the lens nice frame love the shadows thank you i really had to zoom in to check if the model was the actor for billy from stranger things lol but in all seriousness the colors in this are really nice and relaxing i like the afternoon in the city vibe mantheyve got some big steppers on lovely cheers interesting picture well done thanks i love this these colors i love the 645 i have other cameras but i like the pentax so well i named it margaret guess im weird thank you hey you name them cameras if you want to crazy good mate thanks very cool thanks fuck yeah well done dude fucking awesome shot really impressive shit this looks good great shot this is awesome great shot removed great composition absofuckinglutely dope af bombing hills with a leica i like your style thank you appreciate it cheers ill smoke to that cheers thank you thank you very much hell yeah thank you making sure they are living their best life one of my favorite shots ive seen on here hell yeah the framing of the action eg that right arm damnand the progressive falloff of vision due to the fog is spectacular really adds to the sense of speed thanks for sharing combining two of my favorite things incredible must have been hard to take a crisp shot while skating fast too i can barely take one in focus while standing this is amazing beautiful work outstanding cheers cheers thank you appreciate the comment sometimes it just works out thank you thank you very much thanks yesssss my man this is an incredible photograph for many reasons that are obvious spectacular work goes insanely hard removed i have nothing to offer except to say that i think this is absolutely fucking fantastic to be able to bomb a hill and get a shot like this is incredible the composition is immaculate truly beautiful stuff cheers i super appreciate the kind comment thank you yeew that is a lot to offer i super appreciate it thank you little luck and a lot of practice haha this is why i come to this subreddit pure excellence epic shot my dude incredible composition works so well in black white appreciate it thank you sup neighbor sick shot fuck this is great and seems a bit sketch in the fog really nice were you also riding also how fast were you guys goin dude did you take this while skating super great one m8 hey thanks thanks thanks youre welcome i was riding a street luge and not very fast maybe 35 really couldnt see much lol riding a street luge cheers thanks well its terrific idk if theres messaging on here but id love to get a print were you on a skateboard as well riding a street luge old san marcos gnarlyyy nah this is a different one but smr is sick beautiful shot goes hard appreciate it never heard of a 25mm lens before this is stunning well done you blew away everyone well done buddy amazing shot would look great printed in a book it would be interesting to see a contact sheet as well if you took many of these where you able to frame it at all while moving best action shot ive seen in far too long wow you win the internet today wow best shot ive ever seen here by a mile wonderful photo one of the few i have seen on this sub to make me stop and admire fucken sick damn love this damn i remember you posting a few months back it really makes me wish i didnt stop downhill your pictures take me back and made me think of a simpler time love the spirit of it insane taking an analog camera down the hills this shot is gold omg fucking awesome el camino cielo gibraltar rd sick pic i used to bomb those hills on my landyatchz dh like 15 years ago great memories rippin love this shot so much great 1010 i knew it was you i asked about your work in a previous downhill post excellent work and style you could easily make a great photo book were yall around city college today saw someone recording skateboarders as i was walking im legit in awe at this shot great shot absolutely amazing shot wonderful composition a genuine decisive moment picture nice shot and insanely good photo taken with positively ancient equipment while doing something stupid dangerous there are no words bravo what an incredible shot thank you for sharing it theres so much motion and dynamism in the composition and the fog is so perfect i love it this was at the gib n rib event in oct of 2022 were still out here doing the thing calling it now this shot is gonna be top 3 in this sub at the the end of this year great stuff this has got to be one of my favorite photographs ive ever seen i too mainly use film photography to document my own life and time with friends if i ever shot something as epic and real as this id be so thrilled haha all the praise youre getting on this photograph is much deserved iconic already not even kidding one of my favorite photos ive ever seen id love to hear what film lens shutter speed and fstop you were using this is a fantastic photo i hope you are very proud the angle of the skaters board makes it look like theyre about to stack looks cool though something like this one crazy sport this is just incredible you got literally perfect composition while speeding down a mountain wtf people cant get that great of a composition being still i know its not 154 but my brain keeps telling me theyre bombing down 154 very good shot very well put nailing a shot while moving and i cant even get a stationary object in focus smh great work superb shot well done if i took this photo i would make a big print and frame gift it to the skater to capture an experience this epicis epic great shot of course this is you lol thats what i said i said yew a beauty the legend is back i love your work man if youll ever be in eu hit me up imma buy ur prints and buy u a coffee this is stunning well done my gs is calling to me from 20 years ago this is a really special shot congrats deleted what a shot the moody vibe of the fog and that dynamic composition just superb i like everything about this image the sense of speed the mist the tones the curve of the road the two other skateboarders one both the blackest and the whitest points in the image the other as a premonition of what the main figure will experience in a few seconds and the point of view ill never be in the situation in which i go downhill among such daredevils the mist is one mystery but the question how the hell you were able to take this photo is a bigger one where in sb is this what could go wrong loving the safety gear helmets have saved me several times great photo i drive up there frequently in my car total nightmare to come across skaters like this on your side of the lane still very nice shot with perfect timing and mood most striking to me is that you pulled off an iso 100 film congrats this is such a dynamic shot superb picture nice pic steezy toeside as well daring shit why out of this world shut up and take my free award i dont think anyone knows how hard it is to take a photo like this great photo have your printed it this is incredible the movement and the dynamic poses are captured so great here great composition as well how did you manage to take this photo without crashing or having it all be blurry great shot dude also you are very brave i am terrified every time i have biked down that road and a few neighboring ones i would shit myself doing that on a board i always take the corners very slowly when i drive because of kids doing stuff like this not hating at all jealous if anything its cool as fuck and i dont wanna accidentally bash a kid whos just trying to shred the composition of this shot is incredible particularly since you were also travelling downhill with them great capture how the fuck did u compose lol wonderful beautiful i dont even skate but this is something id frame it provides such a cool sense of movement just really terrible english amazing photo well done i dont mean to take away anything from you this shot is amazing but how many pictures did you have to take to get one that is this good are you also on a skateboard that would make an awesome photo 1000x more impressive this is stunning im not joking when i say i might want a print of this thats a killer shot im riding a street luge this good is hard to define but the keep to not keep ratio is surprisingly good sometimes it was the fastest wide angle lens when it came out sorry fun lens appreciate it thanks im working with a skate magazine the freeride flyer it might make the cut for the mag but theres some other ones i think are better havent printed it yet so no contact sheet either i dont often look through the viewfinder while riding the framing is more of a trial and error ive just figured out how to point it and distance to subject to fill the frame with someone skating wow thanks cheers thank you very much milpas by the little caesars truly fantastic you can feel the speed from the photo and the difficulty is off the chart as someone who longboarded hills in highschool then did analog in college this is unbelievably well done work man the composition is fantastic and the sharpness even when the light comes through the fog is great i feel like im tweeting out that toe in a nice slide when i looked this and i respect the work you must have done to capture said shot well done appreciate the comment thank you its refreshing every time i go back to a hill with some friends thank you for the support thank you thanks im a 25 year experience photographer and i dont think ive ever captured anything as rad as this facts cheers thanks you im working with a magazine the freeride flyer i was thinking of also putting together another smaller photo book thank you not i but good to know people are out there on the grind thank you thanks thank you very much thanks i appreciate the comment thank you i appreciate the kind comment thanks deleted dang would be cool forsure thanks thank you very much you get it these photos only come from having that camera on me constantly lol its one of those shots that i thought was cool but didnt expect the praise appreciate the comment cheers dang thank you very much bomb away thank you always stoked to get some on board shots some of my favorites to take film is ilford delta 100 lens is canon 25mm 35 ltm 100th at f8 zone focused drifting to slow down into the corner i had no idea you could drift a skateboard lol do you remember any of your settings yeah like that i do the thing lots of practice lol would be a lot cooler if they did thanks cloudy 8 all the way haha thanks thanks i do that a lot havent gotten in the darkroom to print this one yet but definitely going to lol hi thanks thanks i race there every few years would love a coffee thank you hope you still have the board thanks one of the best ive seen here i super appreciate the comment and taking your time to check out my image as for the question practice at a closed road event a few months back up in the mountains im more of a what could go right kinda person tbh always thanks with faster film i lose the ability to get the speed blur from the slower shutter speeds this was taken at a legal closed road event i totally agree about it being uncomfortable to have anybody in your lane as you drive up i can tell you its similar when an oncoming car is in the downhill lane sorry not all skaters are as respectful of the rules of the road it makes it difficult for the rest of us thank you cheers thank you super appreciate it its one of those things that takes years of practice but once you do that part its just about being present and having the camera not yet just finished my scanning and will get in the darkroom to print when i have all the rolls done from that event right settings help avoid the blur and then just keeping the camera pointed in the right direction i also dont look through the viewfinder while riding busy not crashing lol no i totally understand and appreciate the care while driving this was at a closed road event which made it safer but some skaters still do some really dumb stuff on open roads thank you thanks good timing i guess stay at the right distance and press the button when they do something cool lol thanks thanks appreciate it thank you cheers thanks appreciate it thank you very much hope you go out for a push around town next time you can thanks for your reply near gibraltar rock this can be a real issue btw i was not implying you did anything wrong here and again fantastic shot while i do appreciate the support i dont have the experience for some other fundamental things in photography this kind of shot is about knowing the camera and being in the right place at the right time fortunately i already knew how to skate down hills always learning more thanks for the support gib top section we had a closed road event on it a few months ago 100th at f8 thank you theres a few ways to slow down but drifting is one of the most effective thats cool it ended up looking great i hope you get it printed in a mag it will look awesome sometimes everything just clicks it would be almost imposible to repeat the exact shot oh yeah i didnt take it that way some skaters really blow it on open roads its nice to have closed road events to do the dumb stuff like skating this in the fog hahaha but yeah the roads are super narrow too skaters have more control than youd expect but that doesnt mean they dont make mistakes that put them into incoming traffic thanks i agree hope it gets to print i recently got my first cover photo really stoked on that this is one of the best pics ive ever seen wow this is heat as fuck do you have an instagram thanks thanks farminghills for skate stuff happyfarminghills for my photos you just have to tell me did you use an accessory viewfinder i have it but no when riding i just point the camera in the general direction and hope for the best what a king for your health i do its a 50 fibreflex with squidgy 65mm 78as by sector 9 probably the easiest board to ride out there dude mad respect id be scared for my camera dank not only here knowing the camera and being in the right place at the right time that counts for a lot of successful photos believe me could i say the first one was the best it happened to me a few times amazing shot like others have echoed you should definitely get prints done skrateboard oh my this shot is perfect simple but true i tried taking a photo like this with a professional dslr on a shallow hill and all of them were bad so much practice is needed as soon as i saw this picture on this sub i was already impressed yeah i checked your profile another cool shot keep em coming thats still crazy you were able to take this image from a street luge thats pretty much photography bless rad hope you get out for a push sometime soon you can repair em its fine lol bless facts thank you ill make some when i get in the darkroom next been busy just catching up on my dev and scans first thank you i used to film with a dslr and mirrorless but i really find the smaller camera easier and more fun thanks again thanks aint that the truth fantastic whats your ig thanks farminghills for skate stuff happyfarminghills for my photos much appreciated brother 30s have definitely slowed my speed cravings but i do still dance around on flats keep doing your thing also if you have a link for buying higher res or prints hmu shoot me a message im going to do a run of prints when i get in the darkroom but can also work out a cheap digital file if you want thanks ill wheeze down a slight incline but my downhill days are over i clocked 36 mph according to my dads ancient ford on a hill at nottingham university yes i crapped my pants but i stayed on it doesnt sound that fast but it is the speed at where theres no getting off and you have to ride through to a slower speed or have a brake i worked out i could do closer to 30 by holding my coat pockets out and acting as a wind brake there was a lot less pantwetting at that speed the idea of hitting 50mph scares the living crap out of me hit me up when ya do im down to buy one yeah anything faster than you can run off is exciting enough haha thanks absolutely right holy shit thats impressive how did you steer and focus and shoot this shot no focusing necessary just zone focused before i started the run incredible shot cant say enough how much i love this so very good really appreciate it thank you wow fuckin rad for sure my favorite pic ive seen in a while on here this photo fucks im in fucking stitches when you took this did you have that moment like yeah that was the one this is really an incredible shot so sick definitely brings back memories i can hear the scraping of wheels as they slide around these corners the clacking of pucks and the sound of pucks sliding across pavement this is why im subscribed to this sub fantastic shot removed i dont say this enough but man youre a legend now thats an adrenaline rush in which countries do you race i know nothing of this sport tbh have no idea if there are any competitions in and around my country thank you thats true but still even though my zenit is tough like a t34 im very skittish with it haha honestly no its always a fun surprise seeing what works and what doesnt should get back out sometime thank you the fog adds a little spice to it forsure where are you from theres a bunch of freeride and race events every year from spain to czech republic definitely wouldnt want to do anything i thought was a big risk theres some roads that demand full attention and both hands fuegoooo dope af you are kiddingjust how omg i loooove this thanks man this is by far one of the best photos ive ever seen in my life do you have plans to sell the print so sick fucking sick do you sell prints were you on a bike or also on a skateboard i might do a small run of prints shoot me a message if youre interested thanks thanks and yeah shoot me a message a street luge with your leica insane this is spectacular beautiful position and lighting well done fuck yeah dude thank you yeew this is an incredible shot but also makes me incredibly nervous im assuming everyone survived nuts absolutely phewf wipes brow wicked needs to be framed slovenia actually close to croatian border id say closest is probably italy czech or romania thanks gibraltar awesome shot thanks yep best shot ive seen on here for a long time congrats thanks a bunch i see so much repetitive copypaste photos on this sub but this one is incredible and inspiring perfectly exposed and the framing and composition gives such a dynamic feeling the tones are wonderful as well kudos to you or the lab for the processing and scan i run a small lab and supply shop in northern california actually appreciate the compliment this is so sick thanks come back had to feel good seeing the result pulling the film from the reel and holding it up is always the best part im not sure what else can be added to the comments but damn what an incredible photograph thank you so much i do appreciate taking the time to comment thanks damn its only january and we already have the shot of the year out congrats haha thanks you as crazy as it is its in 4th now you might be right what speed was it also video or instant random shot was the cameraman skating or he was on another type of vehicle not that fast maybe 35mph not sure what you mean video or random this is a photo and yeah i was riding a luge sleigh with wheels yeah i was wondering if it isnt a shot taken from a video rather than a spontaneous unpredictable shot well like nothing is random or spontaneous or unpredictable about this as mentioned in the title it was shot on a1936 leica iii also in the comments somewhere is a link to what a street luge is but you can always just google it its a skateboard made to sit down on sheesh seeing this right after watching mid90s made it more meaningful to me sick shot thanks thanks youre welcome beautiful and captivating sick photo wow i was browsing the top post of the month and this was my favorite it was clearly almost everyones favorite considering its the top post by a long shot love the sense of speed you feel in the shot i also appreciate the risk in taking a shot like this very impressive i just wasnt aware that this was shot by the owner of farmer film supply ive bought some film from yall before always nice to see some local photographers in here oh hey thank you so much for the support we had a meeting today about the community darkroom and studio excited for the local community also thanks for the kind words on the shot it is fun getting these on board photos you have to be saying heat ironically removed this is absolutely badassery you are a legend dude i kind of want to frame this on my wall haha youre amazing i also wish i lived in a foggy area so that someone could take mysterious photos of me like this hahaha is it easy to get out of the way if a car comes up the other side of the road while skating downhill yeah not hard to maneuver but the road is closed here anyways thanks thanks nope i can think of a better way to hurt myself called it dang love it great hey guys do you know how much i can pay for a used precision slalom trucks 1 year use bad bot hello everyone so basically my aunt found out that i was trying to put old family cameras to good use turns out she had a pentax k1000 from my uncle who died before i was even born collecting dust in a wardrobe for 30 years i bought film and shot this picture of my boyfriend which i really like im honestly just happy to connect with my uncle who was loved by everyone but i had never met but i would like to get better and would love to hear your critique if you feel like it greetings ah what a camera to start with the k1000 is among my favorites alongside the olympus om1 which lens did you find with it i personally love the lighting and the contrast on this scene but it seems like the shadows are a bit overexposed this might be due to expired film quite possible a bad scan or wrong metering this is all personal preference though while id love to see those shadows being a bit darker i also really like the way it looks as is a great tip when using expired film its always good to know how it was stored if it wasnt refrigerated the rule of thumb is halving the iso for about every 10 years that go by at least for color negatives if it was refrigerated then box speed should be good for 10 yo film especially solaris usually holds up well under these conditions by the way i hate being this person but its ferrania not ferraria p omg thank you so much this was really helpful and dont worry about correcting the typo i am usually that person too haha |
hi i have done my research aka google but nothing came up i know this is probably a stupid question but id rather ask than to risk ruining another camera a battery was left in a canon ae1 program and it corroded is this even the right word beyond repair the original lens was attached to it and when i removed it visually it looks good but if i attached it to another camera will i possibly be transferring the leaked battery juices again sorry for lack of better words on to the other camera a canon ae1 and i suppose ill ask since im already here one of my lenses vivitar has fungus on it im thinking of tossing it as its probably cheaper just to buy another but if i keep it in the same box as my clean good lenses will i risk transferringthe fungus to grow and get ln my other lenses many thanks in advance | youre over thinking things its fine as for fungus it isnt transferred the spores are already there what you want to avoid is leaving equipment in conditions that fungus grows in deleted thank you |
first time using a film camera anyone know what i did wrong or if my film is salvageable | did you load the film correctly how many photos have you taken you could rewind the film and load it again i believe so i followed the instructions of a youtube video im confused youre not supposed to rewind the knob when taking pictures youre supposed to advance the shutter lever on the right side of the camera you only use the rewind knob on the left while you press the button on the bottom plate after youve advanced shot all 2436 shots of your roll did you push the rewind button on the bottom of the camera no i didnt the rewind knob will rotate by its self when you advance the film its a good test to make sure the film is loaded correctly whenever you load film youll have to take three photos to make sure youve wound enough of the film so you get a usable part that wasnt exposed while loading if after doing so the winding knob isnt rotating when you advance the film your best option is opening the camera and checking if the film was indeed pulled while winding or not most likely not then youll have to check that the film sprockets holes are catching on the teeth of the advancing mechanism the rotating thing to the left of where you insert the film leader if it is try winding it with the camera open and see if it pulls the film if it isnt make sure you align the teeth properly with the sprockets and try advancing the film again with the camera open if it advances close the camera and you can lightly rewind the film to remove any looseness just a tiny bit very lightly until you feel some resistance from the rewind knob often thats not necessary though if your film was exposed during all of this dont worry only the part that got out of the canister was exposed so you might lose a little bit but not all of it duh thanks i need to go to bed lol may take up to 5 pictures or so for the knob to turn because of slack in the canister if its not turning by that point try loading the film again the out of focus wall on the right is fighting for too much attention in the composition try this crop much cleaner need a snickers bud deleted no but i think you should take an introductory course to photography and try to learn something lol okay kid ask your parents to pay for some therapy hey bud whys that stick so far up your ass cant get daddy to take your pics for you lol the friend comes to the rescue on his 41 day old post because he cant say shit you literally commented on this post first and now youre trying to mock someone for replying when youre the one who went hunting for an old post to throw a fit on i mean i dont even know the guy im defending but im not going to pass up the opportunity to bash some daddys boy who tried to post things his father earned for reddit clout like how small of a person needs to do that oh forgot to addd it lol its a new years party good sheet can confirm its a very good sheet great photo thank you thank you youre welcome |
deleted | a cameraformat isnt going to make uninteresting scenes look good i think your issue is more subjects vs film itself start here what is it you define as bad what were you trying to capture and how did you fall short evaluate the images and ask for help on specifically what youre struggling its a test roll for a reason and this stuff takes practice when you shoot take your time with it make sure the shot has a definitive subject and determine if the composition looks interesting enough to pull that trigger personally i have a bad habit of envisioning the scene in my head rather than what its showing in the viewfinder and i screw up the composition with that mindset its all about growth and taking shots you hate is part of the learning process stop blaming the format or camera you shot absolute nothing what where you trying to capture this is just a bad shot improve by capturing something you find interesting people landscapes when you see something you like try to frame it like you saw it the rest ist improvement over time better angles light sharpness but first have something to shoot the rest comes slowly short and good advice here very on point btw picture number 3 is not bad at all decent shot if you ask me better gear doesnt make a better photographer i feel attacked ok well less harsh than these other people light in nearly all your scenes looks flat so your colors are going to be dreary you do need to learn how to compose photos a bit better plenty of videos on youtube film stock may not be best suited for what you were trying to do take a tripod if youre using a rb67 and make sure everything is level and perfect and finally slow down a lot yeah i like that one too respectfully take photos of cooler things i think you should focus on composing using a lighter camera using a big camera on the street isnt that convenient and it shows have something planned in mind it looks like you were just taking snaps without a subject i have a photography professor that would have called these grab shots as in you grabbed your camera and took a shot no consideration for composition or subject edited to add you can make your shots better by thinking about your subject and composition try out different styles of photography read about the people who have perfected the styles you like and how they approach their process itll help immensely it will get better it just takes time and practice have better subject material maybe better lighting save your roll for a day when youre going to see something youre really excited about when i got my first mf camera i waited until something special was coming up when youre excited about an event or something you want to capture with a camera youre excited about the results really show it search thru famous photo books heck even natgeo to better understand composition subjects deleted theyre all pretty well exposed so thats a good start make sure you take the time to ensure the camera is straight so you dont get overly crooked horizons like some of these also take time to nail your focus as i noticed some of these are a bit soft where the focus wasnt in the correct place the content you choose to photograph and the lighting conditions will have a big impact on which photos work and engage an audience and which photos turn out a bit dull good luck beautiful ducks i love ducks sick amazing photos paul and reinhold never trust the autocorrect and what exactly is not safe for work here so hot literally sweating rn the filth dripping down that nozzle cap removed pleasure drops what did you dev it with it was either d76 or ars imago fdthe internet say its more or less hc110 i can check later removed had us in the first half ngl damn wolf whistle this is an awesome shot congrats i wish i had taken it i love the exposure so hot oh fuck im hard like an egg roll now shes a dirty little sauce cap i want to make her squirt simply titillating your expectations when you clicked on this post ah i use hc110 myself did you shoot it at box speed i got four rolls of them i am not sure how to use them i checked my notes i used d76 11 but i didnt write down the time so it was probably whatever the data sheet or the mass developer chart said it was shot at box speed i really liked the tones and i did a couple of enlargements with ease i wish i could get some more rolls but it was a special edition for the 100th anniversary i like this a lot get out why you can this is just great thank you did you get this blokes permission id love to take shots like this when i see interesting characters but i dont want to get beaten up i normally dont get permission and do my best not to be noticed that said if i am noticed i can normally talk my way around it the guy did eventually notice me and when i explained the irony of the photo he found it really funny richard kalvar once told me that if youre making fun of the scene rather than making fun of the person youre normally in good territory to explain your way out of it i try to stick to that very nicely done i adore work like this that has humour jumping out at you welcome thank you lovely to be here im so tired that i read soon as soup nice work regardless love this composition is balanced and feels really classic while being rooted in the present with certain visual elements makes me think of vivian maier in the best way hilarious laughter soup now im just going to be childish cockaleekie for nonscots thank you im happy you like it great use of a 50 im considering getting one ive been using 28 for a while now the man in the photo did the same a few days before awesome photo welcome on board thank you thats part of the risk you take with street photography this is very nice mate cheers nice shot im glasgow based too you on ig thanks im in warsaw poland these days but im from airdrie so im back home and in glasgow often my instagram is just checked and we already follow each other hah magic glesgas a small town great shot thank you this is wonderful mon the weegies hah thank you up the weeg this got me thinking is it possiblehow do people make a living with photographic work thats more artisticstuff that the photographer wants to make as opposed to working for someone sorta like artists selling prints etc as opposed to commissions basically can i make money doing stuff that actually appeals to me lol it is possible yeah there are many photographers that make their living through their own work and projects though many of them myself included teach write and do other things on the side to supplement the income and im sure work for others when the need arises theres the 1000 true fans theory that is quite popular in the indie music industry that states if you have 1000 true fans that buy your records and support you by buying tshirts coming to shows etc then you can make your living as a musician you dont need to be megastars this doesnt translate 11 over to photography but im using it as my guiding principal as i build up my newsletter website projects etc this was the last frame of the evening from a small hill overlooking the vineyard if i recall correctly the lens is the 100300mm f4 tokina atx set to somewhere between 200300mm and probably f8 or 11 the exposure was 10 sec with ektar 100 that i ended up pushing a stop obviously the camera is moving a bit as are the leaves so the scene ends up more like a painting than a picture and the blue tone of the evening emphasizes this further initially i wanted to throw the picture away but the more often i look at it the more it grows on me grew up on a wine farm and love this tempted to try it myself in season edit was it hand held thanks a lot for your comment tempted to try it myself in season for me this shows again that sharpness is often overrated i wish the poles were made of dark wood and not metal but it is what it is edit was it hand held with a carbon tripod but given the long and heavy lens and the fact that the exposure took 1020 sec there will always be plenty of movement in the leaves and the scene in general hence you would usually take 23 shots in addition even at that distance the depth of field is limited at 200300mm with f811 and i probably focussed on the second line of vines honestly i am pretty sure i did not nail focus no matter what it was already pretty dark in the end this is what i love about the process of shooting film you are not always getting what you hoped for but sometimes this is good news sheesh this is good thanks a lot i dig a lot thanks for sharing thanks for your comment i am glad you liked the picture ektar hence the vivid colors nice shot i didnt know you could push ektar much thanks for your comment yes ektar pushes very well by one stop just not for portraits as faces may turn pink not a big issue when you scan and convert by hand but for printing in the darkroom post removed gear post rule post all gearfilm content including finds deals and so on in ranalogcommunity if you believe your post merits its own thread please contact the mod team for approval before posting thank you the mods hey by f3545 do you mean the lens hey yes these are the minimal aperture numbers for 28mm and 70mm nice shots have you tried using colored lens filters for black and white photography i have a set of yellowredorange for my om10 hey i like using orange filter when i shoot with a kit lens i only have 49mm filters set and all the other lenses have 52mm diameter i also have light yellow and green filters but i never gave them a try hi the two images in the viewfinder wont line up after film was loaded can the numbers on the distance setting ring be used somehow instead of the two images in the viewfinder let me try going over this step by step after film was loaded this should be totally unrelated the two images in the viewfinder wont line up i assume this happens at infinity in this case it may not be super dramatic depending on how and what you shoot in general you can adjust the rangefinder yourself by using a measuring tape for minimum focusing distance and something with clear sharp edges at infinity ideally more than 100 feet 30m away there should be a screw eg below the cold shoe that you can use to adjust the rangefinder you will need a tiny but long screwdriver can the numbers on the distance setting ring be used somehow instead of the two images in the viewfinder yes this is called zone focussing and is very common with shorter lenses mostly up to 3540mm but your 50mm will work as well i assume this is a paxette with the 50mm 19 so you can zone focus comfortably with smaller apertures but to really make use of the wide 19 aperture you would need to either 1 fix the rangefinder 2 get an external rangefinder for your coldhot shoe 3 bring a measuring tape with you or 4 get very good at guessing distances i have a rollei 35s that only uses zone focussing so this can be done with a lot of practice the rollei has a 40mm 28 lens so your task would be even more difficult if you use anything between f56 and f11 you can use the scale on the lens to estimate the depth of field for your shot the best way however is to simply rely on hyperfocal distance in your case setting the lens to f11 and the distance to 77m will get everything from around 38m to infinity in focus that is pretty good because you can essentially forget about focusing altogether and just fire you dont have 77m on your ring but you have 9 so if you set it somewhere between the 9 and 6 closer to the 9 you will get sharp results for most street scenes if you want to shoot landscapes setting it to 1015m and f8 will give good to very good results i hope this helps enjoy your beautiful camera hey look this was extremely helpful many many thanks to you enjoy your beauftiful camera and thank you happy to hear this let me know if you run into issues zone focusing and using hyperfocal distance was very very common up until the 50s and remained in use eg for street photography to this day i do have one question because its winter and i am not really using apertures higher than 4 does that make a huge difference to the distance setting yes unfortunately this is a hard problem to overcome at f4 your hyperfocal distance would be around 20m put differently setting the focus ring on your lens a tiny bit to the left of the 15m mark would put everything between 11m and infinity into focus this may be pretty okay for wider scenes and casual landscapes but it may significantly hinder your ability to do street photography environmental portraits multilayer landscapes and so on maybe try f56 as this would yield a hyperfocal distance setting of 15m precisely marked on your lens and bring everything at 75m to infinity into focus also your specific lens will perform very very well at 56 and 8 but be soft in the corners before and after keep in mind that depth of field is just a madeup term for an appearance of sharpness given the socalled circle of confusion put differently if you post on instagram show pictures on your smartphone or print at 4x6 you can easily get away with hyperfocal distancebased focusing if you want to print your images at 8x10 or more you will need to fix your rangefinder or get an external one no matter what finally given that you have paxette i assume you are interested in bw film so if the dull winter is causing you trouble push your iso 400 film like trix or hp5 to 800 or even 1600 to get to f56 or f8 in most cases you will favor sharp images over a bit more grain if you develop in something like hc110 and dont start with a very contrasty scene to begin with you will not even notice the difference in grain between 400 and 800 but you get a full fstop in return what do you mean by wont line up zone focusing is a rough workaround that you should understand for sure but the range finder should work too there are youtube videos on how to check the accuracy of your range finder maybe have a look around at some of them and come back with questions it would be nice to have that baby fully operational for you good luck edit oops sorry about reply to wrong post there is a small redish diamond when you look through the camera which should tell you if the subject is in focus when the two images line up it seems to focus fine without film inserted then all of a sudden once the film is inside the closest i get to that diamond lining up with my subject is all the way to the left 1 meter since these comments ive focused mainly on just judging the distance and setting it like that i am super curious how these photos will come out if they will be more focused hmm is your camera a super ii bl the manuals i find on line for cameras that look like what i can see of yours in the picture dont make any reference to a redish diamond i was really messed up by that sorry from your 3rd picture it looks like youre just talking about the normal ghost image of the range finder are you saying that youre unable to get the ghost image of the range finder to overlapalign with the main image like the instruction manual indicates no matter where you set the lens the other interesting thing i notice from the instruction manual is that the camera back slides quite far up into the top of the camera when its installed maybe theres some portion of the camera back thats interfering with the movement of the rangefinder mechanism when the camera back is in place does the range finder work correctly with the camera back in place but no film in the camera that would indeed be strange but id need to think more about how that could happen maybe you could share the exact model of the camera im sorry if it was posted earlier and i missed it ah sorry now i see it super iii automatic looks like the back doesnt protrude up so high in this one edit in any case if a portion of the camera back is bent or in the wrong position it could interfere with the rangefinder mechanism another thought might be to remove the lens per the instruction manual find the pin or lever that interacts with the lens to operate the rangefinder and see if that piece moves or performes differently when the back is opened or closed or when there is film or no film interesting neat little camera though we definitely need to get it working right ha ha best wishes |
hello all ive got a jammed 503cx in need of repair and service any suggestions for a technician in chicago and the area cheers and thanks | try chicago camera repair specialist on wabash otherwise central camera probably has a solid recommendation somehow this picture creeps me out in a good way awesome shot usually im not a huge fan of dutch tilts but it really works here it adds to the feeling of being on the water rocking in a boat and looking up at the towers great shot i love ektar but it seems to catch some hate nice shot i can understand any dislikes as far as it goes to skin tones but thats what they made portra for the sharpness of the lens with the dreaminess you get from giving portra a little extra exposure works so well here awesome picture thanks i appreciate it such a great atmosphere film is fantastic for this deleted the colors and exposure are stunning lovely shot thank you hard to tell could be a small light leak or a scanning issue is it consistent across your roll if yes then its probably a light leak thanks for your answer it appears on the roll when i slightly underexpose a photo in the dark because i wanted to minimize motion blur when its bright enough outside i have no issue so it might be a light light leak probably but i could be wrong as well you can check the back of your camera if the light seal foams needs to be replaced there are tons of videos out there on how to check this may i know what camera are you using i also had faced a similar issue just a months ago with mamiya 645 the light leaks arent noticeable but the lines are consistent across the rolls for negatives but i only notice its a huge issue when i shoot bnw film then the lines were really visible ok the eyes thanks for ur help really appreciate it i am currently using a nikon fg 20 i want to buy a medium format camera aswell in future but i have to save some money first would u say it is worth the price film is expensive af too definitely will check out youtube to check if my cam has a light leak thank you mate medium format have less shots compared to 35mm 35mm has 3624 shots depending on the film and medium format has around 1215 but the resolution is much larger if youre new to film i would say stick to what you currently have and invest on film stocks anyways hope youll sort out the issue what film was this shot on where are you getting your film developed and scanned at regardless i can assure you that this is not a light leak a light leak would not appear as a uniform line like that my guess is that it is either a pressure plate problem or a scanner issue film is pressure sensitive so if there is abnormal pressure on the pressure plate or film gate in one spot it makes sense that a uniform line like that would appear inspect the film gate and pressure plate on your camera and look for any abnormal high areas or wear marks it could also be the scanner honestly looks almost exactly like a line that was showing up when i was getting film developed and scanned at millersmpix thanks for your answer it was shot on kodak gold 200 i give a local photo store my film to develop might send it in somewhere with post to see if that may solve the problem i will check my pressure platefilm gate thanks for your help of course good luck getting it resolved i love kodak gold 200 its one of my favorite stocks honestly i never used another film till recently ilford hp bnw but still in lab but i cant complain love the colors kodak gold is also the only colorfilm you can get in my area when you get one d its insane billy is one stylish mofo call him ranch the way he dressin love this deleted this has such a cinematic feel to it wonderful work ids on the fit awesome shot we would love to feature this on analog forever magazines instagram please message me if you are interested thanks this reminds me of the candy man love this comment i imagine in a couple days youd see a few crazies there for the anniversary funny to me that there seems to be this resurgence around andrew bird i remember hearing plasticities back around 0607 then didnt hear much from him again till lately love andrew bird wish there was a bit more detail in the shadows lovely ive got one of those vws too non westfalia and also two dogs lol they are a labor of love but add so much to your life glad to hear theres another vanagon owner in this community enjoy it they are so unique such a stunning photo thank you it was even better in person beautiful scene beautiful colors and such a nice way to travel id say this is picture perfect very cute what time of day was this this was shot approx 125 hours before sunset deleted love this i absolutely love it this shot captures the feeling you share in the title so well well done man i love it thanks i really appreciate it i was really fortunate to catch this moment we were road tripping for 3 days so whenever my dog the brown and white one gets to play he has tons of energy we parked to soak in the view before sunset and someone else had their dog with them and they started doing laps around the van i only had a shot or two to get it right since i was out of film im very lucky that i was holding my camera at that moment yeah it is always those unplanned moments that are the best i also checked out your instagram you deserve way more followers thanks its tough since i usually dont have time anymore to make youtube videos of my work so its challenging to gain traction hopefully in the spring ill try going around to bars and restaurants to try and sell a few prints maybe ill get lucky haha im really glad you enjoy my work though it means a lot i absolutely love this first time i see an actually good framing for a photo it makes the car pop like its in 3d thats an awesome van what kind of vw wheels are those im wondering if theyre the right dimensionsbolt pattern to fit on a modern vw they are mercedes clk wheels im actually thinking about selling them they bolt onto the vehicle perfectly its a common upgrade love it its beautiful brings back the warm feeling i get when i see my pup running free nothing like it absolutely love it at the getty yes such a nice place for bw photography really like your picture it is and thank you stunning thank you where is this lake henshaw in north county san diego very nice ana mendieta is it me or are ops spam of pictures just not good i dont find anything appealing on these mediocre compositions models if i were to run across something like that in the wild id give it its space and try to become friends many are laughably bad im half convinced theyre parody im14andthisphotoisdeep yeah and the titles are even worse i mean maybe they are esl the titles are pretty amusing but i think everyones being a little hard on the photos some of them are pretty interesting i quite like colonial travel though i dont know wtf the title means its giving me less 14 year old and maybe more rich guy from the eastern europe hiring a lot of models p have you seen ops post history dreams come true and its an arse cheek nothing wrong with photographing nudes but giving them names like cheesy names like dulux names their paint doesnt help colonial travel the models are average at best if you ask me yep i went through his post history the names are pretty funny which is why i think its probably a matter of english as a second language which im not going to mock someone for rip to the merc solid picture thank you gorgeous shot rough neighborhood love this why does this photo pop is it the lens this looks ridiculously 3d thanks so much actually kinda ya thank you lovely light this is beautiful perhaps the depth of field the distant light this was shot handheld likely at f4 thank you thanks just before sunset i think this lens also has pretty good micro contrast plus analog photos just feel more lifelikeorganic most of the times rip merc im guessing restoration i really regret not having an analog camera while in california the abundance of views like that love the pic lovely shots with the fp4 showing fantastic tones one of my favourite birds on one of my favourite films maybe an analogue birds subreddit could be a new niche channel watching gannets fish is mesmerising unfortunately many washed up on the coast in scotland this year owing to avian flu |
im looking for usbased lab suggestions for developing and scanning 35 120 that accept mailin i used to have a regular lab but they closed and now live in a small city without one im not shooting anything professionally but any suggestions for your favorite would be appreciated tyia | the darkroom in california is my go to mail in lab excellent i like them as well not cheap but they do an amazing job memphis film lab north east photographic flagstaff camera they accept mailin and process c41 e6 and bw on site love these colors the paranoyds these are great chinatown and cinestill are a great duo this is exactly the use case cinestill 800t was made for amazing paranoyds i dont get how people think 400d pushed twice somehow looks like natura yooo shout out chinatown and bar88 what venue is that dope shots i like them totally legit to use 400d in these situations if you want them warmer as 500t would have made them it makes the concert atmosphere more cozy i think fujifilm natura s is the camera and you thought you did something there didnt you my statement still stands unchanged the lodge room noyd rage oh snap i havent been there in years thats tight what group is this ill give them a listen the paranoyds cool shot |
cute camera co is all over my instagram ads so ive been looking at them for purchasing my first film camera i want to be sure i am making a good purchase for a canon ae1 and dont want to just jump on the cutest website that first pops out to me ive never purchased anything on ebay so i dont really understand how it works and am worried i will get a bad camera where do you suggest i look for this purchase | if you are located in the us i would suggest looking at kehcom this company has been around a long time and has a generally good reputation i did look at keh just now and there is only body available no lens but i like their website and i think i will explore it a little more for more lenses for my sony keh typically sells the body and lenses separately if you have never used a film camera before you may want to look for a 50mm prime lens as this focal length is close to the view of the human eye are you set on getting an ae1 there are plenty of places to buy one from and cute camera charges a ton over market looks like they want 300 for an average condition one and for that much you can get a way better camera and lens my suggestion would be patient and buy from somewhere else yeah i want to try looking other places what would your suggestion be do you know of any reputable stores online and canon ae1 is my first choice just because it seems to be the most popular and user friendly is there a different camera you would suggest i am very open to new options its not particularly easier to use or learn in than any other camera its just the one internet people seem to recommend to everyone and drive the price up i still see them at garage sales for 20 from time to time and its a good enough camera but one ive had the most trouble with over time i have purchased from keh roberts camera camera exchange and even mpb but generally when im looking for a good deal i just buy from photo market sub here on reddit the best suggestion i can think of for finding the body to buy is choose what lenses you want to use and then pick a body that uses those lenses i personally prefer nikon but its just a preference if you were to call one of the shops and i suspect they could get you a very nice setup well within your range i would also suggest asking friends and family if they have something to sell or give you before spending any money this is very helpful thank you which nikon do you shoot with i shoot a bunch of them f f2 f3 f100 fm2 i think any of them are good to learn on honestly the nikkormat ftn is super cheap and usually comes with a good lens attached i also think there was a guy in the sub that is giving away a bunch of beginner cameras too might want to check that out also consider the om1 film camera or if youre truly looking to purchase a film camera be patient as rumor has it that pentax will soon be releasing a new film camera map camera or japan fun camera on ebay ive used both multiple times and gotten great results okay the om1 was recently brought to my attention in passing but didnt seem as popular as the ae1 so i kind of assumed the ae1 was better overall but i will definitely do more research on the om1 now that someone else has said something too dont get me wrong the ae1 is a gem within canons slr range as is the canon f1 or f1n but dont discount olympus the om1 is regarded as their finest film camera from their heyday mind you as you begin looking and researching youll find the om3 is their most sought after as its reached cult status but the om1 can be had for pennies plus its not about the camera body its the lenses that are the crown jewels olympus has a spectacular om lens lineup i know this because i collected them for years and still have a few rare specimens bewareonce you pick up an om1 plus any of their gemlike lenses youll be hooked why because theyre insanely small and compact but yet on par with leica and zeiss nearly surpassing all other brands and the om lenses are easily adaptable to digital bodies because so there prices are starting to really see a spike thats a nice perspective of that peak its been years since ive scored a permit up there love that space |
does anyone know of a good film shop in nairobi kenya for developing film andor buying camera equipment | i have spoken with sona shoppe in westgate and also colorama lab they both claim to develop regular c41 color 35mm film and dont do e6 slides or medium format thank you so much for the help the question then remains do you trust these places awesome shots the first bricks were laid by a free fall mason deleted thanks so good love the colors here brilliant colours and composition love it thanks lovely shot congrats on your first post what camera this was my voigtlander vito b wow these are insane i especially love the second frame awesome stuff thank you jacob that is tremendous bravo thank you i appreciate it amazing was this lighting done with only a projector yeah a projector connected via hdmi to my laptop with photoshop fullscreen sometimes ill use another light for a pop of color or something but this one was just projector i made then made that shape in the background and then made a circle of white light in the center that i then gaussian blurred to make a softer spotlight on my subjects face had to double check i wasnt on twitter big fan of your work linus great set as always haha had to come through for my annual post on reddit thank you so much very stoked to see these on here these go so hard thank you so much that second frame well actually all of them really is just incredible i need to get myself a projector at some point because wooww the effects are almost limitless it seems rsizz would love this 100000000 limitless whatever you want to make and projectyou can how did you meter for this awesome set linus where do you find the projector overlays thanks these are insane been following your stuff for a while and can say out of many awesome photographers out there i keep being wowed by your unique style and artistic vision in portrait photography i dont find them i make them on the spot in photoshop i just have photoshop full screen and i play around thank you so much always just try to add enough light until i get a 60th of a sec shutter speed on my models face when i meter for the highlights thank you bond jane bond these strongly remind me of bond opening sequences very nice amazing is that second frame just the models shadow or did you do some lighting sorcery that i cant figure out album cover is this cinestill linus great work 4th shot is nuts nice work thank you haha heyyy frrrr yes just the models shadow i totally see it now thanks amazing pictures again linus 2 and 3 are fucking bangers amazing images saw these on twitter great work i just knew its linus the second i saw it amazing jobb as always just awesome i saw you develop them on your insta live how bright should a projector be to be able to make these kinds pictures got any guide number in lux pure beauty so you created this shape in photoshop the projector i used for this was 3000 lumens i picked up a 499 epson at best buy that said i also sometimes push my film when using a projector but 3000 lumens a low shutter speed never lower than a 60th handheld and a 2428 aperture usually works for me shooting at 800 or 1600 speed film and pushing if needed thank you so much thanks thank you thanks haha thank you thanks ayeeee thanks for watching thank ya these are my first photos that i shot in the snow i was really excited to see if the pictures turned out to be something i was very surprised by the results which i certainly have to thank the photo studio for it was the first time i took a professional analogue photo studio i think i will never go back if you look closely you can see that i took the third photo from the car which im particularly proud of these are very beautiful you did an amazing job really love the last one the red on the signs is a great contrast element imo amazing i want to hear the ghost story built around this photo i really like the second one i would have thought it would have held up better for one stop did you push in development or just meter at 800 whew that grain is intense love the moodatmosphere god damn wow this is good both metered for 800 and developed like it was 800 so 19min in rodinal 150 at 20c thank you very much these are fantastic you rocked this wonderful photo rodinal gives honest grain id guess that using any technique other than stand development youd get grain i like rodinal for 6x6 and 4x5 165 for 19 minutes 20 c unless i am using stand or semistand development amazing results howd you get this to come out so clear with limited light it was around noon and actually quite bright out i was shooting at f8 1125s if i recall correctly with the 50mm ml 19 fantastic stuff i desperately need to have some fog in my city soon looks really good these are freaking awesome thank you yes definitely a lot of grain but thats what i was going for yes here the snow was melting so much it created fog and i knew i had to go to the port to take these wow these are awesome nautical nostalgia god damn it these are beautiful very good damn i need a port csl might be interested in having a copy of these stunning shots well done i really like kentmere stunning fog and grain match made in heaven oh man i totally love the mood of those superbe what does 400 at 800 mean exactly is it the exposure method must be right kentamere box speed is 400 but i metered it at 800 and developed longer to compensate it produces more contrast and grain generally and was what i was aiming at merci very cool absolutely adore the results thank you for the insight i messaged them thank you |
just received these scans back from the lab 412 shots were fine but the rest are all like this any idea what went wrong | hey noinformation2012 this post would get more visibility either over on our discussion based subreddit ranalogcommunity or in our weekly ask anything post you may want to post it in one of these as well or instead looks live long exposures and movement some ideas you had a longer shutter speed then you thought selected and then moved resulting in the blur the shutter is sticky at some settings resulting in it staying open too longwhen it shouldnt at all thanks the mod team not a pro but it looks like too much light overexposure deleted well i aint no doctor but sure looks to me like you done broke yer funnybone hey i used a pentacon six and had similar issues its very common for the pentacon to have sticky shutters it appears that the shutter fires correctly but it the curtain doesnt actually close again until you forward the film next time the camera isnt loaded open the back and test the different shutter speeds the oil probably needs to be changed i would imagine 160s works if you want to workaround that i would use shutter priority great composition and colours thank you i ran ahead to take this and captured 3 in total the moon is best framed here and i like the slight mounds in either side that being said id have looooved if each individual was evenly spaced out but better snap it before you lose it absolutely spectacular a true ektar moment right here first of all awesome shot it tells a story and im a sucker for those i appreciate how you used the sky for negative space me personally i would show off more of the sand implementing the rule of thirds and possibly using a longer focal length whilst backing away and keeping the same size ratio id love to travel to a place like this one day well done amazing colors i wish it was bright enough where i live that i could shoot low iso in january hey thanks so much for the feedback taken on board yep absolutely shouldve used longer focal length but i get very lazy cautious so i tend to stick with around the f8 mark if i understood you correctly i did a trip with scoot west africa if you ever do head that way would highly recommend 2000 km covered on scooters over 16 days hahah i live in berlin and im from ireland so i assure you im not used to that light thank you thanks a million oh man ive been to ireland once before and it was beautiful unfortunately i was just a kid and not into shooting film yet so kind of a wasted opportunity there but i plan to go back at some point and will probably bring every camera i own do you ever post photos here from back home ah class where were ya im from wicklow just below dublin i miss the sea terribly which is why ill likely leave berlin eventually i get ya i only started shooting last year so i think back to trips abroad with the same anguish on that note since starting shooting ive only gone back to ireland for short trips i post every day on my instagram and if you scroll down there are some shots from a short trip to kerry with friends this summer where are you from or living we actually rented a van and hit several cities dublin cork killarney tralee limerick shannon galway i vaguely remember a town named dingle which still makes me laugh tbh i live in coastal new england us the climate is actually pretty similar to ireland maybe a little less rain and more snow there is some nice scenery here but its nothing compared to what i saw in ireland everywhere i went there was super picturesque i would probably shoot like 50 rolls if i took that trip now haha i feel you on missing the sea ive lived in coastal cities most of my life and when i did a short stint in the midwest i never expected id miss the ocean so much do you miss the tea im not exaggerating when i say i still think about the tea i had there its not nearly as high quality here i love the composition of this soo soo sick so sick im curious if you use lens filters such as nd or promist if so when do you decide to use them and how often what did you edit about it i slightly sharpened the image did minor adjustments to the levels to give it a touch more contrast and used a function in gimp called color to gray even though it started off as a black and white image the scan was rgb and the color to gray function does some odd things to an image that i like such as enhancing the grain a bit and it makes the image look a bit less perfect for a lack f a better word for it interesting do you know whats going on with the blotches around the person was that on the original image or did it come about during the editing process the blotches appeared when i ran the color to gray function they werent on the original image the original image has very shallow depth of field and the person is very blurry in the original but it doesnt have the blotches so i dont know why it looks the way it does but i really like the way it turned out agree that effect is very interesting amazing thank you if you said this could have been slide film id believe you great photo thank you so far ive been really happy with that medium format gold 200 glad to hear keep killing it great wide angle shot the reds that ektar brings out in the foreground and on the mountain tops are really pleasing and help contrast with the blue sky i can almost feel the wind blowing thank you very much and yea ektar really made the bells turn extra maroon and i am here for it i didnt notice how red like it comes out until i was scanning through this trip again and was surprised how the colors rendered i love the cozy midcentury feel of this shot thank you i agree eggleston colors well seen incredible thank you ive been sorting through my old negatives i think i was 16 when i took this photo using the camera i got for my high school photography class thats amazing i like the motive mood and reds congrats just in case you are open to suggestions those are pretty interesting development issues almost like bromide drag in bw if i would have to guess they are probably caused by a lack of early agitation or some odd issue with dryinghanging the film without sufficient washing given that parts of the film seem to have touched this could also be caused by some odd film advance mechanisms used to get the film on a spool thank you for your insight on this matter i was wondering what could have caused it topical comment ducatis look gorgeous and are a thrill to ride but secretly they want to kill you chauvinistic comparison narrowly avoided quite desmodronic colors the yellow hue like an old photo and a ducati having tried and ridden ducatis from the super sport 750 to panigale v4 id say that the contrast of the subject and the atmosphere of the photo is hmm what is striking but yellowish the yellowishgreenish colorcast is very typical of kodak vision 3 cine films and cinestill 400d is just vision 3 250d without the antihalation backing if you want to remove the yellowish cinematic rendering you can change the white balance also 250d was developed for development in ecn2 not c41 which also makes a noticeable difference ektachrome so beautiful perfect winter wonderland you did a fantastic job wow this is pretty thanks i have yet to make this particular mistake but live in fear of the day that i do that said i also like how yours turned out did you put it back in the developer cause in that case you should probably change your developercool photograph though did put it in the developer after rinsing it with water |
anyone know if betterscanningcom is still in business ive tried contacting them about purchasing one of their 120 epson holders with glass and havent heard a single thing and its been over a month anyone know where to purchase them elsewhere or something similar | there are a number of threads on reddit and elsewhere that discuss this as wellthey seem to originate back in april of 2020 i placed an order and sent two follow up emailsall within the last few weeks ive never heard back from him older threads suggest the guy is a one man show and had been having health issues i gave up on my order with him i need a new anr glass insert anybody have a source for this me too nothing it is marked on the badge n1a pocket kodak thank you i think this might be a kodak no 1 pocket camera produced until 1933 has a f63 max aperture kodar lens and takes 120 medium format film to produce 6x9 images i dont know if its a rare thing to find one of these in working order but it certainly provides a different challenge in comparison to your slr you would definitely check the bellows as these have surely become brittle after close to a century past manufacturing other than that it has a pretty limited use case by todays standard but it might be a lot of fun to use it out in the wild edit corrected the aperture thank you youre welcome thank you for the info its a kodak no1a which is clearly marked on the front of the camera it was made between 1926 1932 it uses 116 film unless you have a time machine good luck finding any of that its just for decoration now kodak pocket brownie i have one and it scares me so i use it as a paperweight op might be able to adapt it to take 120 film if theyre motivated i have one of these they take 116 film not 120 however the film photography project store sells or at least sold adapters to shoot 120 film in it possibly if it was 620 but the spool for 116 is 10mm wider than 120 making that adjustment is gonna be quite a project but then again op already has a 35mm camera and knows a thing or two so anythings possible well it looks like the lens is missing so you just could use it as a pinhole camera on f22 if its 116616 film you can get 120 adapters however you need to get creative with the film counter window i on the other hand have gone stupid bought surplus 70mm kodak 2402 aero film and have spooled it onto salvaged 616 backing paper spools my first test roll came out horribly over exposed which means i should not have tried the miscalcuated sunny f8 rule being in ohio right now having the sun come out one day for about 2 hours totally fried my brain will try again well as bob ross always said happy little accidents haha but seriously photo 3 turned out incredible in my opinion thank you the ghost of odb 1st and last pic with the stairs have stunning result |
i have some old film negatives that i want to digitize any thoughts on sod reasonable priced negative scanners and also what application do you us to scan them in with photoshop lightroom | ive been using an epson v500 scanning with the provided software and doing post in aperture works fine on the mac but theres plenty of choices if you care about quality at all though at least get a flatbed and not one of those supercheap ones if moneys not a problem and you want new id highly recommend a plustek i have a 7600 and its wonderful i dont do a lot of photo editing so i just scan with silverfast and crop appropriately not a dedicated film scanner but the canoscan 9000f works perfectly fine on a mac i use vuescan and everything works really well it scans great up to 4800dpi this plustek is actually quite cheap some other scanners that produce equal quality cost several times more i use the canon canoscan 8800 it comes with software to scan the images with and works quite well this is truealthough its significantly more expensive than the 100 amazon special its no 10000 drum scanner in europe the plustek went for less than 200eur same price as my lower end flat bed scanner i just got an epson v330 and it seems to work fine so far perfect shutter speed to get the clarity of the foreground and still capture the movement so well awesome shot man thank you i really appreciate that nice now this some edible these look like expedition photographs taken on another planet maybe get a reseau plate before your next trip to get the iconic small crosshairs if youre looking for critique as tagged id say that your detail and range of tones here are great but even in abstracts the composition should feel intentional bottom of the second photo for example seems kind of empty given formal interest in the swoops above but thats because youve set yourself a good challenge by sticking to the full borders in exposure also third photo is starker and maybe too high contrast to match the others as a set but i like the effect and think its cool makes for a very archaeological terrain x200b best hey beautiful photo what filter did you use and did you shoot at box speed o56 filter and yes photo 3 is unreal in terms of composition great pics the first shot is fantastic where is this near lillehammer in norway this is a good one thanks mate |
all shutter speeds and aperture work just fine except when in blub mode it fire almost at 1500 which is the wrong speed any ideas why that happen and also how to fix it thanks in advance | hey rustynailssss this post would get more visibility either over on our discussion based subreddit ranalogcommunity or in our weekly ask anything post you may want to post it in one of these as well or instead this a possibly obvious question but are you fully holding down the shutter when shootingtesting in b mode otherwise it may need to be repaired and the other shutter speeds may not be accurate as you think they are thanks the mod team ok thanks ill get it checked by a professional urustynailssss this is bob sara yashica company trained tlr technician from the former yashica service centersstill restoring these tlrs every day after 40 years like the others said the shutter is expected to stay open on b for as long as the release is held in i can verify that when thisdoes not happen it is because of the old thickened organic type lubes we used back in the1960s1980s which have long expired this affects the escapement mechanism as well as the rest of the rest of the shutter but it first affects the bulb setting then gradually the slower speeds and if not serviced then it will eventually cause the shutter to lockup organic based greases were also put inside the focus and advance mechanisms and they will also start having issues sooner or later with resistance smooth and proper rotation these organic lubes and greases are also unfortunately the number 1 cause of lens fog and fungus at some point if you are interested discussing getting it cla serviced my direct email is clastudiosmsncom not all cla services done by all shops are the same or complete if you care to see pictures and details of what a true factory level cla looks like then please visit my pagesite on facebook for cla studios at this link below great answer and point in the last paragraph though difficult to convince people of the last point you made when they sound so sure about something they think they know about amazing photo great job |
just bought a hexar af silver the camera is in near perfect condition turning on lcd display showing correct screens but when i put in film it doesnt load at all or advance it stays stuck on 0 frames its not showing any error codes and the camera isnt stuck in factory mode any help appreciated | did you pull the film leader over far enough yeah there is a film lead mark to pull it to and made sure it was pulled to there tried further and not as far too wish i could be more of a help on my black hexar i sometimes have to pull the leader until it slips behind the spool a little but it always catches on the first or second attempt can you return it to seller if you get it to work its a great camera yeah its a great camera and would be perfect for what i like to shoot but sadly they are prone to problems with electrics got it checked in two camera shops and the contacts to say that it has film arent working which has no quick fix have to return it deleted thank you |
im new to film photography ive been using a olympus superzoom 760 af 35 mm point shoot i just got my photos back from being developed and they all came out blurry can anyone tell me if this looks like a me issue not shooting properly or a camera issue imgur makes the photos a bit more blurry any help is appreciated thanks photos | very hard to tell just from these theyre definitely out of focus the question is why were you trying to focus them did it look in focus when you clicked have you mistakenly assumed its on autofocus is there something wrong with the lens id be 90 sure that its a problem with your camera you camera is an autofocus point and shoot so it should be doing all the focusing for you theres not much anything really that you can do to adjust the focus manually this isnt motion blur or a low light problem these are severely out of focus as far as i can tell the camera does not allow manual focus which more or less rules out a you problem my bet would be a camera problem this looks like a lens issue something seems to be severely misaligned does the lens retract correctly are the lens elements intact everything looked in focus when shot on autofocus as far as the lens im not really sure i bought it off ebay in working condition i was afraid of that i guess there go my photos and camera i did go through an airport with the camera would an xrays impact look like this or ruin the roll of film all together more than it already is ive heard different things everything seems to be working fine as far as i can see but im fairly new to this i bought the camera off ebay in working condition but if something was off i couldnt say xray would not look like this this is 100 out of focus glad to at least rule that out thanks yeah photos look exposed and developed correctly the film looks like it was in decent condition from the visible colours etc the blur here is not motion blur so its not a question of shutter speed or compensating for a small aperture the scenes as far as i can gather are not photographically challenging the blur looks exactly like a focus issue therefore i very much suspect this is a camera issue particularly because this is an auto focus only point n shoot this is not an slr finder is always sharp and not coupled to the taking lens unless you had your finger on the af sensor the whole time very unlikely this camera has severe af problems unfortunatelly there can be many reasons af sensor af motor lens element loose non of them really fixable sorry glad i got these developed before using another roll time to find another camera any suggestions for beginners that includes manual option its a good thing it was fairly cheap maybe the issue contributed to that absolutely stunning beautiful color work very painterly image without sacrificing any detail or information i love it could be done in my area but since i moved into our house into a big forest there wasnt that much foggy days is there a question here removed i find a lot of nsfw posts here boring from a photography perspective they usually are the same thing of an conventionally attractive women posing nude in similar compositions this one is interesting and different for me the composition almost seperates it from the context of the body it belongs to making it feel alien shapes of the body usually lost are accentuated and take the main stage now thank you so much removed agreed it took me a good 15 seconds to orient myself in this picture and find out what i was even looking at a nice change of pace from the constant barrage of mona lisa photos normally in this sub removed removed |
i recently got a minolta srt 101 in good condition after going through the camera i realized it had ttl which ran on batteries i live in india and finding the battery would be an expensive and hard search anyway without the battery the shutter seems to work and im not too keen on using the ttl im pretty new to the whole world of analog cameras so am i missing something will the camera shoot without a battery | the camera will work just fine since all the battery does is power the ttl meter happy shooting yes you can shoot without the battery but you wont be able to use electronic metering i take it that youre not new to photography and have an external light meter otherwise ttl meter can be very handy i already have some digital bodies which i use for most of my shooting i am intending to use the minolta for some fun shooting in the streets i will be able to get by with the sunny 16 rule thanks for the help just fyi there are also light metering apps available on playappstore you could also pick up a battery at your local camera store it works fine without it too though ive done it myself im sure you could find a tinkerer in india to cobble an adapter together for you here are instructions page 7 my brother made one for my leicaflex in an evening and it gives perfect readings now i compared with a sekonic spotmeter its spot on pun intended you just wont be able to use the light metering i have the same camera and this is the battery i use works like a charm it takes cheapo 14v zincairhearing aid batteries at least where i am from you can buy like 6 of them for 5 and theyre super easy to find just go to any hardware store and im sure theyll have them even in india heck if you payed me the 5 shipping id happily mail you a pack if you want great pictures not the most mind blowing images ever captured on film but theyre mine this is the very first roll of 120 ive ever shot using the holga for the first time and first roll of film ive ever developed used cinestill cf96 mono bath at room temperature minimal agitation for 6 minutes rinse with water for 3 minutes and kodak photoflo for 1 minute scanned using epson perfection 4990 flatbed scanner winter is coming for sure incredible composition literally perfect fantastic this is incredible great composition absolutely stunning perfect thank you so much yes it is i try thank you colorado being beautiful helps thanks truly appreciate it cant beat the rockies thanks its difficult to translate film to digital but this is done quite well the snow highlights could be a bit brighter but this could also be my phone i feel the composition is slightly distracted by the visible mountain in the background creating an uneven line but the image still works nicely done dillon reservoir great shot kinda looks like dream lake up in rmnp wow you got a good eye i took this shot in the first week of november first time visiting colorado would love to go back dream lake thank you thanks thanks youre welcome hahah nice ive been living out here for a year now but i was there in august and im pretty sure ive stood exactly where you took this shot great photo its a wonderful place wish i had access to mountains close by its a wonderful place wish i had access to mountains close by tricky scene to expose nicely done i love this i second this perfect really very well done beautiful work looks amazing very nostalgic seeing the date on a print los angeles cant have anything nice the lighting in this set is wonderful i like the middle one the best that first shot is right out of the golden age the tonality is absolutely gorgeous loving first and second shot it could be a still from a 1920s movie wowowowowowoww amazing shots amazing shots the second one is my fave great use of the 105mm the bees knees these the first one is insane looks like a shot from the 60s and makes me thinking again about buying a 110mm for my mamiya 645 removed love the second shot thanks so much wow thats good alright nice camera thats what i shoot with light and small i love mine got it 13 years ago off of craigslist for 25 nothing special about the fg but it absolutely gets the job done without issue ive only had to replace batteries and light seals over the years same i picked up two over the years i shoot manual and it has everything i need including a timer i hope they stay cheap nice photo maybe i am oldschool but i like the full range of tones and nice contrast very nicely balanced composition thank you really nice captures i was curious what the base of your negatives looks like with the new kentmere pan 400 mine are heavily fogged but i am not sure if it was possibly airport security scanning thank you base of mine looks nice and clear these were captured with the 35mm kentmere which i believe has been around for awhile did you self develop or send to a lab im using the new kentmere pan 400 in 120 format i selfdevelop with leagcypro 110 like hc110 and always get clean negatives great shot very watercolor esque really dig all the 5s |
deleted | if anyone has any better title suggestions let me know i dont know why i love this photo but i do deleted im just getting started in analogue photography and my dad has well preserved expired rolls that i used to shoot some pictures i understand that slides have a very limited exposure latitude so my first photo is severely underexposed and im having a hard time getting the correct exposure i also understand that working with expired rolls is a gamble that can bring totally unexpected results does anyone have experience with slide rolls or comments in general on my 3 photos okay gru kazimierz in krakw i know the corner but i cant remember the name of the street nice thank you cant wait to take a trip up tokyo again this time with a camera love these shots |
hi ive just picked up a roll of ilford delta 3200 35mm my first black and white roll and trying to figure out the right settings in my camera i have a canon 7 35mm rangefinder with a chiyoko super rokkor f28 and inbuilt selenium light meter the highest camera asa setting is 400 and the films real asa is 1000 asa according to the data sheet ive shot a few test shots so far and just want to see if what im doing is close to right or completely wrong before i keep going on this roll im measuring my light aperture settings at for example 1125 adding about 13rd of the way to the next stop then shooting it at the next shutter speed like 1250 so measuring roughly 113rd less light at the next shutter speed so would that be shooting my camera at what it would be if it had a 1000 asa option is that right ive never tried something like this but i wasnt having any luck with 400 asa colour film and low light so figured i would try something more sensitive and if anyones got any advice for trying to take night pics i plan on going out later and just trying it in the street at a low shutter speed like 115 wide open and see if anything comes out on the film when i get it developed also what do i tell them when i do would i be something like shot at 400 asa 113 sorry im only a couple film rolls in so pretty noob but at least im having fun | id suggest to either use an external light meter eg phone app or not to fiddle with third stops delta 3200 is designed to be shot at 3200 but you can shoot it at almost any asa with adjusted development for night scenes you can shoot at 3200 but bear in mind that the results will be very contrasty one stop more than asa400 would be asa800 two stops more would be asa1600 three stops would be asa3200 look at the exposure triangle for instance if you want to shoot the film at asa1600 and you prefer metering with your camera you would meter at 400 and close your aperture by two stops more than the meter tells you or increase shutter speeds by two stops eg from 1125 to 1500 or use a combination thereof tell your lab the asa you shot at shoot it at 800 i really like 3200 at 800 also you only have to compensate the meter by one stop here are some examples shooting nm in bright sunlight at 3200 is definitely a vibe so you are using the build in light meter to measure the camera settings then your problems with iso 400 film could come from this because the selenium is getting old and doesnt work bad or not at all try a light meter app and compare the results with the camera light meter light meter works fine the camera only goes upto 400 asa settings so im trying to calculate after for higher asa film |
the camera is zenit 12xp | you can shoot it at 500 or any speed and develop it as such or if you want to shoot it at 800 you can set your iso dial to 400 and subtract a stop from what the light meter is telling you eg if the shutter speed is suggested to be 1250 shoot at 1125 your camera might have an exposure compensation feature too shoot it at 500 cinestill is technically kodak vision3 500t so it wont harm it by giving it an extra stop imho the picture alone is just okay but you really sold it so well with the title now with the shaded window i cant unsee unimagine this to be a spaceship i also like that you went with such a wide border very nice idea and it shows how an everyday scene may be tunred into something interesting thanks for sharing thank you great what was your vantage point did you edit this fuck this is sexy thanks was taken from the top of the highest lift at porters skifield in nz as much as every scan is yeah i was just curious to see how you took this photo and if edited them because i always get the sky overexposed in mine i cant say i have that issue too often do you do your own scans or send them to the lab colour negatives have a pretty good latitude for exposure so i dont usually have too much of an issue with the sky blowing out unless its a really contrasty scene i typically just meter for the shadows or use the n80s matrix meter and im generally happy with the results snow scenes can throw the meter off so you do have to be a little more particular as to what youre measuring nice its a neat perspective being that high without feeling like its in a plane woooo a1 photo and caption youre not even close to baseline great photo interlinked exceptionally cool photo im also a fan of the scan how was this scanned love the vibes im assuming tripod remember your settings more or less 1 unless theres something im missing here ive never seen portra 400 halate like that and i love it whats it like to hold the hand of someone you love interlinked do they teach you how to feel finger to finger interlinked love the caption and the photo it always amazes me the variety of colours and lighting situations that are all rendered so well by portra so consistently thank you no tripod actually i only set the aperture to 28 and shoot away with the asa set to 400 the film isnt pushed in development and i dont do any editing after receiving the scans either geez thats awesome i wouldve thought for sure thered be a fair amount of shake with how dark it is slower shutter or at least in my hands haha maybe i need to get a steady grip thanks a lot tbh im not sure how ive managed to break the portra 400 rules to consistently get this vibe but i really love it i mentioned how i shoot at night with my trip 35 and portra 400 in my reply to uchastenenbaumssock above if youre curious im returning to analog after 15 yrs and am more or less just experimenting until i get the hang of it again i wish i had a better technical explanation as to how this happens with this particular film but my knowledge just isnt quite there yet ps happy cake day thank you i take my film to a small lab in stockholm im not sure exactly how they do it but theyre amazing i get my prints with this same white border because the rough edges are so charming imo maybe you could reach out to them and ask what their process is the website is here one of my favorite films thanks so much 3 thanks for the link yeah the rough edges are so cool ive only tried 3 other films since getting back into it this fall but portra is hands down my favorite i understand what all the fuss is about now i actually havent shot portra in a minute since ive been trying to experiment with lots of different film stocks im actually really enjoying gold in 35mm specifically these days its not nearly as consistent but as someone just taking photos for fun thats not too much of a concern i also wanna experiment with vision 3 and cinestill 400d a bit what else have you tried ooh i havent tried gold or vision 3 ill have to add them to the list ive tried silbersalz 500t dubblefilm cinema 800 ilford fp4 plus 125 and i currently have a roll of cinestill 400d loaded now the dubblefilm has been my favorite of the group other than portra but i have high hopes for the cinestill 400 woah never heard of dubblefilm before thanks for the recommendation im definitely gonna try and hunt some down at a local store or online gave you a follow on ig cant wait to see the results from that 400d also i really need to get back to portra lol i had 4 rolls of 400 i bought which i accidently let expire in my desk before i knew to cold store and im slowly working my way through them as expried film but they dont look anywhere near as rich as proper portra i then bought a 120 camera and picked up new rolls of 160 and 800 and i was like oh yeah thats why everyone shoots portra xd its skye with an e at the end but im just a pedantic scot the photo is lovely love these shots i honestly would have guessed ektar 100 because of the saturation of the colors what are the ghost sprocket holes from god damn it i just double checked the film it was ektar 100 the sprocket holes are from my shit developing job but i honestly love the little mistakes like that im still learning this was actually shot on ektar 100 my mistake when posting knew it was ektar love those colors im currently shooting a roll at iso 400 pushing 2 stops in development fingers crossed it looks this good dont worry about the sprocket holes adds a cool effect and will be something to look back on when you have it down perfectly haha good eye thanks oh ive never seen ektar pushed be sure to post some will do absolutely fantastic picture almost looks unearthly absolutely fantastic picture almost looks unearthly many thanks the wind was so strong and freezing that i was surprised that the camera did not freeze on the walk last one is extremely cool i love these probs my fav i seen on here great shots op ive been seeing some really nice shots with gold recently nah these fuck good shit op thank you happy accident first time shooting gold but definitely not the last first reddit post too o im not sure i would say its cool but its also not worth getting upset about its obviously an unintentional double exposure but the first two look like you captured a cool trip to the mountains thats the thing about film you make a lot of mistakes when learning and will continue to make them as you do it more learn from them and just move on that gold looks great on the mountain that last happy accident is nice lol love the energy of your comment are you sure you rewound when there are problems with the film advance this can happen im definitely not sure this was purely a guess didnt know that was a common issue with film advancing though so good to know hasnt happened b4 so im hoping this wont be a recurring issue hopefully its a oneoff a good habit to get into is watching the rewind knob when you advance the film make sure its turning deleted for sure i do for the first couple shots cause it happens a lot then what am i supposed to do if i notice it isnt turning or only turning a bit i usually just rewind the film back a bit and it catches on and turns completely then something is wrong with it or how youre lacing it up deleted well its working for the most part and im hoping with this roll the film advance issue is unique bc of me falling on the slopes between those photos haha thank u for the insight tho i agree these fuck hard it can happen if you bump the film release button you know thats what happened when you end up shooting way past the 36 frame count on the camera these are mean as nice work first image is fantastic first two seem fine am i missing it last one is magic first two are me trying to show i dont fuck up every photo this is great a lot of people would love to be able to do this intentionally i say its a happy mistake and youve got something really unique out the other end whats even the first and second one they just look likena single frame to me maybe its the parachute in the first image idk about the second one though i dont see it yah sorry i was unclear its only the last two that got effected was going to post these pics but figured i had to explain why those two were like that you might as well like it cause otherwise you are sol ahhh gotcha these are extremely cool definitely cool whatever you decide those are all cool shots all great pics so good theyre still im about to go on a ski trip and wanted to shoot film what kit did you take with you on the slopes and anything specific to expose properly its cool embrace it removed thank u the canon a1 and 50mm i used were small enough to fit in a pocket in my ski jacket while still attached to a strap around my neck if it werent for the massive pocket i wouldve kept it under my ski jacket and just unzipped for photos im no expert with film photos by any means but i think you just gotta be careful with the snow cause it can really trick ur light meter into thinking the scene is way brighter than it should be maybe shoot a film thats decently forgiving with overexposing and aim to overexpose a bit some nice shots here regardless boards of canada promo pics oh sweet my minolta x700 and a 50mm should hopefully be fine then lol thanks thats a good idea did you just manage exposure in camera then no nd filters i didnt use any nds shooting at 200 was perfectly fine probably couldve added a couple stops and still have managed sick thanks for the advice i know it was accidental but your last shot looks dope lol gorgeous makes me want to make a period piece look comp in software knowing ill never get it perfect or with all these feels |
deleted | first time using flash with my pentax 645 coliseum and roman forum i like the swirling staircase shot always enjoy seeing clean geometric shapes i think nice photos is that a little plastic puppet looks nice whit that blurry city background yes haha its a small figure i won while i was in japan i was in a rush to get through the rest of my film so i just took like 10 pictures of it thank you bad crop i guess its a bad crop if youre asking the image is scanned from a print amazing thank you removed nice recently bought a salyut s with a volna 3 mir 26b and jupiter 36b i also have the jupiter 36b and a volna 3 but the volna is for my pentacon six great lenses that turned out really cool did you shoot the portrait first and the lights second technically the order doesnt matter the photo will look exactly the same no matter the order you might prefer to do it one way but other than that it doesnt make a difference editmade my point clearer well i dont agree the overlaying will be deferent depending on what you shoot first portrait or texture maybe the difference will be small but it will be thanks here i shot the portrait first ive done multiple test on this with different shutter speed combinations and even flipping something like 1100 12 to 12 1100 results identical photos love this it reminds me of deep field astrophotography the juxtaposition between that and the contrasting simplicity of the portrait exposure is totally unique not something ive ever seen before im not sure of the etiquette here but hopefully a strangers awe is sufficiently congratulatory this is a very interesting comparison thank you so much deleted you are more than welcome this is your experience i dont have identical photos okay thanks are those christmas lights yes youre right m6 is a beaut i want one my m4 is my favourite lens already but with that extra sharpness the later models are really something i have 44m4 too used it with my previous zenit camera 12cd i also have 442 it was complete with my zenit e when i got it as you can see im kinda fan of soviet cameras and i can say that really love all my helios lenses feel the burn super nice i might have to try something inspired by this i have that and the 44m would like a 442 and a 44m6 or m7 just to have the wide range my other loves are my pentacons surprised how little love they get lovely neutral smooth bokeh decent sharpness just as cheap thanks wish you successful and interesting experiments this is awesome obviously a lot of thought went into the shot getting the backlit subject to make sure the double exposure came through in the dark areas then the cutoff at the bottom makes the whole frame feel organic even serendipitous very cool the double exposure technique has its own rules and shooting on film always has some element of complicity thank you link to the still photo ive been wanting to attempt this shot for almost two years now and was able to achieve on new years day i had to do an 8 hour round trip to get to a specific location where the orbit of the iss would precisely align with the moon i was able to make use of the f5s crazy 8fps speed to squeeze in 14 shots of the iss a little less than a two second window this was shot through a celestron edgehd 8 telescope which has an aperture of f10 shutter speed was 1500 and i developed the film for iso 1600 how hard was it to time these shots with the iss lets just say i machine gunned through the entire roll to make sure i had a second or two of buffer and not miss the moment it entered frame side note ive always wanted to rapid fire an entire roll and i finally had a justified reason the timing of it is incredibly predicatable though i was watching my clock tick and waiting for exactly 212952 to start firing really awesome i absolutely love your work i am learning about astrophotography right now and hope to someday take my bronica gs1 and nikon f6 along for the ride the station for sure is huge i had no idea how big it is congratulations epic photo moment wow so cool always pushing the boundaries do you plan to exhibit or publish your work at any point perspective actually the iss is very close in relation to the distance from the moon to earth thats why it looks big im amazed this is the coolest thing ever nice work actually the moon is very teeny forever relevant ive always wanted to take a full frame photo of the moon and thought i needed crazy lenses but telescope is the way nice work yeah but its huge compared to the iss howd you set your exposure awesome woooooow dream shot well done great capture yeah the iss is only about the size of a football field solar arrays included its orbit is about 200 miles up about 100 times closer than the moon this is amazing what focal length did you use incredible work deleted coolness very cool work well done as you are obviously a fan of both space and nikons you may enjoy photographer timm chapmans profiles of nasa nikons with detailed notes on the modifications to each body extraordinary work great shit god tier fantastic can i use this as a wallpaper go for it thank you stunning work amazing stuff wow thats so cool even for a analog camera have a canon ae1 and pentax sp1000 is it even capable to shoot k or this to about 100 times closer than the moon the moon 240k miles is about 1000 times further than the iss 220 miles oop my bad left out a zero by accident a week earlier there was an iss fly over that i used to measure the exposure and get a reference i just used a digital camera to meter that the exposure was a very tricky balance the moon exposure is brighter than the iss according to my previous test all the brightness of the iss varies with each pass and it was brighter this time also it was a fine balance between enough exposure on the iss and high enough shutter speed to freeze it i prioritized exposure over freezing i thought 1500 would be too slow and i would get little streaks but i think i was luckily right at the limit i developed at 1600 to try and reduce grain a little one day though im constantly stuck in the headspace of im not ready for that yet yup 2000mm of focal length if you want to fill up the frame yeah the nikon f5 was the last 35mm slr to go to space unfortunaley it was never used in the iss it was a modified f5 with a digital back would have felt a tiny bit more special photographing it with the first camera used onboard ok that is it im cursed 1500 with an aperture of f10 shooting at iso 1600 and at a normal music gig for my so pushing my d3200 to iso 3200 with my lens at aperture 25 i have to set shutter to 115 to have only 15ev under exposed im cursed for sure to be fair my subjects were illuminated by the god damn sun for reference full moon exposures you can use the sunny 16 rule and just add an extra stop the looney 11 rule fascinating sounds like it required a lot of planning and a bit of good fortune at the same time surprised how well the film handled the dynamic range too really awesome shot youre such a fucking g my man i get so excited when i see a new post of yours on here or ig this is awesome coincidence just followed u on ig this morning after seeing brae posting about your work on his story good shit man love this deleted so you hit the shutter release based on the clock and not where you saw the iss in the sky yeah i could see the iss with my eyes but to start the captures when the iss is in the edge of my frame i would not have nearly enough reaction time at 8fps the whole roll is finished in just over 4 seconds so the window was a bit too tight to judge it by eye |
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