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Bought from Amazon reseller 1-Stop Camera to save on taxes and shipping. Took 30 days to get, and I paid $150 extra for installation. The installer was a mover who had no training, was ignorant of gas-line installation, and did not have fittings available on his truck. When he started to install the flex hose to the house gas valve without teflon tape or pipe joint compound, I told him to stop and that I would do the install. 1-Stop refunded the install charge. The other hick-up was that the stove measures EXACTLY thirty inches wide, and my counter top had to be trimmed to fit the stove. After I successfully installed my new Kucht KRG3080U, I noticed that one of the burner grates did not sit flat on the stove. Kucht customer service was extremely responsive, and offered to immediately send a replacement, but suggested that I try moving exchanging the left and right grates to see if that would not make a difference, which it did. I've been fixing great meals on my new stove for about one week, and cannot be more pleased with a major appliance purchase. The quality is exceptional regarding form, fit, and function. The burners are high quality castings and machined brass that are made for disassembly and cleaning. Compared to my 27 year old Roper, the burners are huge! The valves have an unusually smooth feel and are capable of micro adjustment for precise flame control. In combination, the cooktop is like upgrading to perfect cookware that heats the food evenly, without the need to swap food from the outside of the skillet to the middle, for even browning. Speaking of browning, bacon cooks perfectly, without burnt parts for a crispy result, and butter melts without browning. The tiny burner ring on the two-ring burner is perfect for keeping pots warm, and can be used instead of a hot plate. Equally wonderful is the convection oven. First time I made a pizza that did not have to be turned midway through the cooking time, which you should note is reduced by about twenty percent when using the convection oven's fan. One of the main reasons I purchased the Kucht stove was because it lacks the mother board almost all modern stoves are afflicted with. Stove manufacturers love the motherboard because it fails fast (electronics do not like heat) and they can charge as much as a laptop costs to replace it. Other reasons include high quality parts, build quality, responsive customer service, and last but not least - great value. Haven't had this stove for long, but love it so far. My only complaint - and it's a minor one - is that one of the burner grates must be removed before you can remove the center grate, to clean the stainless steel strip between the burners. At a fraction of the cost of a Thermador, Wolf, or Viking, the Kucht KRG3080U delivers on overall on quality and excellent cooking experience. The Kucht warranty explicitly states that the stove is made for residential use and will not be covered for constant/commercial use. The sheet metal on this stove is lightweight - only .025 inches thick - so it will not take the beating of an industrial kitchen. But for home use, this is a great stove!

We upgraded from a 15 year old refrigerator, so this model blows the old fridge away. It has ample room in the fresh food storage and frozen food storage areas. The small shelves on the ice maker door (the left hand door) are not adjustable, but come in handy nonetheless. The shelves on the right hand door are adjustable and, as advertised, easily hold a gallon of milk. The LED lights are nice, but I still think a bulb is out when I open the doors, because the LED lights are not as bright as the old kind. The interior is dim, but you can see well enough. The doors open and close with ease. The multi-colored LED lit drawer adds some coolness to the fridge. The water filter is easy to get to and change out. However, the filters run close to twenty-five dollars a piece. I imagine a generic filter will come out soon enough that will be lower in price. There are three places to get ice. One is in the door of course, another is a small tray inside the left hand door, and the third is in the freezer. I like that you can turn the one in the freezer off. The upper tray holds plenty for the two adults in our house. The freezer is well lit and food is easy to see and get to. The unit cooled down quickly after initial setup. We have had the refrigerator for a couple of weeks and, overall, we are very pleased with it. As for shipping, we order online constantly, but we had never order something this big. However, the price here was more than 900 dollars less than local, so we thought it was worth taking a chance on shipping. It took about ten days to arrive, but it was in showroom condition when it got here. Not a scratch on it. The delivery company notified us via email when they picked fridge up. We did not hear anything more until a few days before delivery. They emailed and called on a Friday to let us know the delivery would be made the next Monday. It arrived within the time window promised. The delivery guys were nice and helpful. They opened the box so I could inspect it prior to accepting it. They volunteered to move the refrigerator into my garage. I handled the actual installation, which was easy for an experienced do-it-yourselfer like me. There is a lot of packing material inside and out that took a while to remove. In my case I had to remove the doors to fit the unit through the door of the house, but I choose a 32 inch door. You might have to remove the door handles if you use a 36 inch door. Removing the doors and reinstalling them was easy and took about 45 minutes. I think the handles are held on by allen wrench screws. Once on solid flooring the fridge rolled easily. After install you lower the front braces to hold it in place. One last thing, the bypass water filter device is pre-installed in the water filter housing. The refrigerator comes with a water filter, which was taped inside the fresh food storage area. I mention this, because I was convinced the bypass device was not included since I did not see it anywhere. It was not until I went to install the filter that I saw the bypass device.

We do not own this EXACT LG frig, but one similar to it and LOVE it except for one HORRIFIC flaw that this refrigerator appears to share with a one we already own, that you should be aware of and which LG has done nothing to fix and which can cost you thousands in repair bills. The door panel to the left of the water/ice dispenser goes bad, on a regular basis and it both stops the panel from working , so nothing is dispenses or settings changed and 'peels' off the base plate. Luckily, we purchased a four year extended warranty and the repair charges, thankfully under warranty were $680.00 for the first repair (April 2016) and $480 for the second (Nov 2016). The repairmen both said that although they are unsure of the exact cause, it appeared to them that the ice maker, located directly above this control panel on the door, somehow was allowing moisture into the housing behind the control panel, condensing and causing the shorting of the panel and then The condensation that had gotten inside of the housing and on the back of the door panel control caused The front plastic outer covering to begin peeling off of the panel itself, from the bottom up, with an ugly black 'V' that can't be removed under the peeled bottom section. So that when you approach the refrigerator you see through the clear plastic outer touch panel, a prominent 'V' shaped Mark, like some little kid took a sharpie to it and I could not remove it. Two more points for your consideration. The first time I called the warranty company, their representative tried to blow me off and say, 'we do not cover cosmetic issues, including the control panel peeling away' and it was ONLY when I said, it is not JUST the peeling, but error codes are coming up about the defrost cycle lasting over an hour (funny looking codes but something li,e R U 8) and I told her that the panel had 'freezes' for hours at a time and no ice/water, etc can be dispenses and the frig does not run did they finally and reluctantly agree to send anyone out and please be aware, this happened in April & again, in Nov 2016, both times requiring replacement of the control panel so if you decide to take a chance, you may want to purchase as long an extended warranty as you possibly can. It appears to me that these warranty companies are aware of what's going on with this model and they will try to claim it is a cosmetic issue. Don't let them. Lastly. Do not take my word for this, look at other reviewers on similar LG refrigerators that have had EXACTLY the same problems. I want to love this refrigerator and as far as we are concerned if, IF, they ever fixed this issue, which it does not appear to be so far it's part of their improvement program, since we are building a new house, I would buy this refrigerator again in a second, but until I see evidence that they have, and we have not, again check the other reviewer's, then sorry, it's really a one star but I give it two because other than this NO star door panel issue,we love the refrigerator

Just installed this new model 36 inch GE induction cooktop three days ago. The installation only took about an hour including electrical connection. This cooktop is replacing the exact same model we had installed in our old kitchen from about 6-7 years ago. I have always raved about this induction cooktop and I would not replace it with any other brand or type. The price was right, it heats up in a hurry, and it is very easy to clean. I believe induction, with the right pots and pans, to be better than any other type of cooktop heat source. And because we've had no problems with the old one, when we decided to remodel our kitchen we kept it, it was that good and held up great. Since the beginning I have been using cast iron pans -large and small- and other heavy gauge pots and pans. It held up great with no scratches or cracks whatsoever. However, after re-installing the original in the new granite top without any problems, a drill fell on it while tightening up the vent hood above. This caused a crack about three inches from the corner. As I said I would not replace our favorite appliance with anything else, so we ordered from Amazon this same GE model and got it within four days. There are some differences between the older and the newer model however. * The newer model has a front and back stainless steel edge covering the glass, where the older model had a handsome curved glass front. * The newer model has a smaller diameter cable going to the junction box, but the wiring is still the same gauge within it. * The original baffle plate that screws underneath had a 1 inch rubber extension flap on each side, whereas the new one although it is the same length with the old one has no rubber flaps. The two new small baffle screws were course-threaded (nit picking) where the old type were galvanized machine screws that would not easily strip the holes in the housing. I kept the older baffle plate because the new one was bent inside the box when it was delivered by UPS. There was not much protection for the baffle as it had no styrofoam around it and it was right up against the cardboard side. Amazon has to communicate with the shipping companies to be more cautious with some of these delicate electronic appliances. * One important difference was that the new model had the improvement I always was hoping for in my old cooktop and that was that the burner glass top areas are now more defined. In the past I had a little difficulty sometimes in keeping the pots/pans on center. *There was one disappointing difference with the new model and that is the increments on the controls no longer have the .5 (half) increment. The older model would go from L- 1 - 1.5- 2- 2.5- 3- 3.5 etc, the new one goes from L-1-2-3-4..... . We did find the half increments useful in the past. * Finally, the new model has an ethernet port (RJ45) underneath. I am not sure what purpose is serves, but I sure wish that it could be used to re-program the computer to re-introduce the half increments. Overall We are looking forward to enjoy this GE Profile model for years to come as we did the old one.

2nd update: Updating my review again. The local Fisher Paykel authorized service technician finally did get back in touch and looked at the dishwasher. Apparently if you put something in the dishwasher which is "too big" water can slosh over and activate the flood detector. I don't recall ever putting anything really large in the dishwasher, but it's fairly simple to open the unit up and dry it out once someone shows you how to do it. The other comments still apply. This dishwasher is not very adjustable and best suited for people whom mostly use traditional plates. Larger soup bowls and bowl-like plates don't fit very well, so I end up washing 40% of every pile of dishes by hand. Update: The dishwasher failed 5 months after the warranty ran out. I get an F1 error, which is some kind of problem with the flood detection system. There's no visible water, so the sensor must have failed. There's only one authorized repair center in town, and they seem to be the opposite of the Maytag repairman: so busy they can't be bothered to return calls. Looks like I'm out a lot of money and now have to buy a new dishwasher; hence updating the review and reducing the number of starts from 2 to 1. I spent an awful lot of time researching dishwashers and ended up selecting this one, reasoning that we didn't run our previous dishwasher very frequently because we rarely had enough dishes to fill it up, so I would just wash them by hand. The reality is that it's so awkward to put stuff in this dishwasher that I end up using both drawers to wash what would have previously been a "half" load. This might be a good choice for someone who uses plates, silverware, and cups; but we frequently use bowls instead of plates and the kids always have several plastic containers in their lunches, and none of this stuff (bowls and plastic containers) fits into the dishwasher very well. I end up washing more than half the dishes by hand anyway. Second, the old dishwasher had a heated dry option which would sometimes melt plastic objects that got tossed around in the wash, true; but at least it would dry the dishes. Even if I leave the finished dishes sitting in this dishwasher overnight more than half the stuff is still soaking wet in the morning, so has to be hand dried using a towel. The bottom line is that using this dishwasher is more work than just washing the dishes by hand and using an ordinary dishwasher as a drying rack. Finally, the silverware container is very poorly designed. It kind of flops around in the dishwasher, and it's hard to fit the larger silverware through the little slots on the top piece, which (annoyingly) keeps popping off. Edit: the set of things that can be washed in this dishwasher keeps shrinking. I'm noticing that containers and deeper bowls are left with streaks of detergent and in some cases aren't getting clean at all. Given the price, this is easily the worst purchase I've made in a while.

We purchased a brand new Kitchenaid dishwasher in a brand new home. The dishwasher never worked, we had 3 service calls, they replaced motor and the power board, and now they won't replace the unit. Here's how it played out... We closed on a brand new house early January 2018 with all new Kitchenaid appliances (Refrigerator, Range, Range Hood, Microwave, Dishwasher). This dishwasher never worked, it would not circulate or dissolve the soap, nor would it dry at all (it is supposed to have heated dry, and yes, we filled the Rinse Aid with their suggested brand before ever running it). Whirlpool/Kitchenaid sent a service tech three separate times to work on it. The motor was replaced, and the power board was replaced, but it still doesn't circulate or dissolve the soap, nor does it dry at all, same exact issues as stated above (see the attached photos for proof). After one month of going through this process, we spoke with customer service and requested a replacement. Then had to wait another 2-3 business days for someone to hopefully approve the replacement. Robin (refused to give her last name because she obviously knew they were in the wrong) from Whirlpool/Kitchenaid finally got back to us and determined that they would NOT replace the dishwasher. At this point, we have NEVER been able to use this dishwasher. We also found out through this painful process that this particular model has been discontinued, and Whirlpool/Kitchenaid also has a "service flash" on this unit (something related to a defect with the upper rack system), which was told by their direct tech line to the onsite service tech. This unit, ours in particular, is obviously a "lemon" and needs to be replaced. We are shocked and distraught that Whirlpool/Kitchenaid would not back their own product, especially with the "Kitchenaid" brand which is supposed to be their higher end brand. It is appalling how this company operates and conducts business, and how they've treated us as true Kitchenaid customers. Please keep in mind that this is a brand new house with all brand new appliances, and the builder wanted to install FRIDGEDAIRE PROFESSIONAL SERIES appliances, but we specifically requested and paid for KITCHENAID, which is turning out to be the biggest mistake we could have made. All we wanted was a working dishwasher, which we never got, now we have to go out and purchase ANOTHER one on our own, because Whirlpool/Kitchenaid will not back their own products, which is a total disgrace. We cannot understand for the life of us how ANY company could leave their customer with a brand new non-functioning dishwasher!!! BASED ON OUR PERSONAL EXPERIENCE WITH THEIR CUSTOMER SERVICE (OR BLATANT LACK THEREOF), WE CANNOT RECOMMEND ANY KITCHENAID OR WHIRLPOOL PRODUCTS TO ANYONE FOR ANY REASON.

I was renovating my kitchen and needed a new "island" range hood. The previous vent hood that I had was only good from one side. I saw this one and it looked perfect. Rest assured that what you see is what you get - only it looks even better in my kitchen (see picture). Sadly, I cannot give you many installation tips, because I had an expert installer put it in for me, who was an expert in all of the "trades", but I did watch and help a little. The end result was more beautiful than I imagined. He did mention that the installation manual was vague, the picture on front didn't even match my model, and I think the instructions say to mount it to the sheetrock - which we didn't think was nearly sturdy enough. It's a heavy, steel piece, so we came up with a new plan. He built a wood box frame, with the thickness of three 2"x4"'s, and secured that in my attic, and attached my new range hood to it. I could practically swing from it, now (but don't try that at home). We also used almost all of our own screws - with the renovation going on, I had plenty of additional hardware and tools on hand. Because my ceiling was lower (8ft) in the kitchen, our unit didn't need such a long "neck" - but the 2 steel rectangular sleeves that come with it are meant to be "nested", so we had to cut both pieces almost in half but, because my installer was an expert, he made it look great - as you can see by the picture! If you must have something blocking your newly opened view (we tore down a wall, between the kitchen and living room), then it should be this beauty! It has 4 well-placed lights, one on each corner, for "full food disclosure" - it really lights up my stove top!. As a personal preference, I've already replaced my little lights with the LED white light version of the bulbs, because I like more white light and less yellow light - purely my choice - but I wanted people to know that replacement bulbs are easy to find. I bought them right off the shelf at my local hardware store, in the specialty lighting area. All 4 speed settings of the fan work great and, of course, the higher the setting, the noisier the fan - but the more vacuum power you'll get, for getting rid of the smoke (not that I ever burn anything)(maybe once or twice) (a month). The lower speeds are pretty quiet compared to my old "hoody". My old vent hood had knobs and it had 3 speeds, 1). noisy, 2). super noisy, 3). noisiest...I SAID NOISIEST! This one is a touchscreen and I really like it. It looks super clean and modern and it is everything I expected and more. I would highly recommend this!

Bought a FP set in 2000 when they were fairly new because of the design of the drive unit alone. I knew the design of the drive unit was superior to other washer designs that relied on standard horizontal output motors, gears, transmissions, clutches, etc. I was tired of tearing into these components for repeated and expected frequent replacement and repair. Not to mention several water pumps. Had never heard of FP before. Replaced the motherboard on Washer at yr 6. Fix was plug and play simple replacement (+/- $60). No other problems. Family of 6. Lots of laundry. Ex-wife kept them in 2014. LOVED the direct drive (electro-magnetic?) simplicity, durability, and quietness -very quiet. Also like the simple push button settings vs. a loud, clinky dial system like most other washers typically use (points & condenser style contact points). Little if any improvements to washers motor, clutch, transmission, the motherboard/dial controls, or the damaging agitation means of cleaning in several decades, until the FP system was developed. Very different and much simpler in many design features. Used very little electricity & water (approx $13/ yr, or $1.00/ month. I'd call that "High Efficiency". Something to do w/the direct drive, magnetic push/pull motor?). Spin dry excellent. Cleaned better then all other washers previously owned, mostly Maytag, which had lots of repairs (clever advertising though). I repaired them myself. Most liked was how well it CLEANED and very few moving parts. Cleans by Cycling/pulling water and detergent THROUGH clothes constantly (center towards outside drum) instead of beating them harshly with agitator I.E.: easy on fabric. Gas dryer was flawless. Quick dry times also. In the market for a new set and I wouldn't consider anything BUT a FP. I'm going to go w/the basic EcoSmart (same model/features as the first set) so that I can use "normal" detergent and is $100 less then the AquaSmart which will ONLY run on High Efficiency detergent. Only other advantage to the AquaSmart that I can find is auto bleach & fabric softener. Which I can add manually w/the EcoSmart when/if I want. Why pay $100 more and not be able to use common, readily available, less expensive detergent? Also, the AquaSmart can be run in EcoSmart mode, BUT still requires HE detergent at all times. The FP used about 1/2 as much detergent as was needed in the previous washers. Took some getting used to. Another small, but user friendly feature is being able to lift the lid and see what's going on and have the washer keep running its cycle. All previous washers/other brands would stop running when the lid was raised. The FP keeps running, but will lock the lid closed when spin drying. Friendly when ok to do so, locked when safety is needed.

Motor maybe great.... Time will tell. But read the following and tell me what you think. In mid April, I bought the Minn Kota Riptide Ulterra 80/IP w/i-Pilot 24V-80lb-54" via AMAZON from Offshore Wake for nearly $200 more than what they currently are advertising them for (which is $1999.99). The motor arrived a few days later and I had it professionally installed on a MinnKota RTA 17 Riptide Composite Quick Release Bracket with a special 24 volt plug/receptacle costing $50 (as recommended) From the very start, this motor gave us problems in that it would not fully stow away onto the holding bracket. After several tries, calling Minn Kota head quarters, taking the motor apart per their instructions, and spending hours on the phone, nothing resolved the problem. Finally the motor decided not to work at all (did not deploy or stow) and would only display a red flashing status light. Per Minn Kotas request, I took the motor to a registered dealer in Deland (hour drive). He had it for a few days talking to Minn Kota head quarters, but was also unsuccessful. By now Offshore Wake started to get involved after the poor review I gave and requested return of my money. Otherwise I wanted the motor replaced immediately. Minn Kota refused to send a new motor until they had the broken one in hand. So the dealer in Deland boxed it up for me with Quick Release Bracket and special plug still attached. We sent it back along with a note that I wanted a new motor with the current Quick Release Bracket and special plug transferred to this new motor. Test it out to be sure nothing is wrong. Needless to say, the new motor came, but neither the Quick Release Bracket nor special plug was attached. The Quick Release Bracket came in a separate box, but still no plug. So once again I had to take it down to a professional dealer and have a the Quick Release Bracket and new plug installed (at a cost of $100). Minn Kota needs to know that this chain of events which cost me three weeks of BS time instead of fishing, is unsatisfactory. I am one disappointed customer. One month after I originally bought this motor I finally have a motor that works. However, she still has not been water tested as will do that tomorrow. It cost me an additional $100 to get new motor professionally installed which included another special plug. Add to that, the extra $200 I paid for this item and inconvenience I went through, some type of compensation should be awarded to me. Whats only fair to me is that Minn Kota offers me a Plus 2 Extended Warranty for free. This is a $290 value that will provide the compensation I deserve at no cost to Minn Kota if their motors work as well as they say they do. Why should I pay for this with all the inconvenience and additional cost I went through I deserve a four year guarantee I am requesting Minn Kota and/or Offshore Wake to please respond to this request at their earliest convenience. Please provide me someone to contact to get this compensation resolved. Thanks

I first saw these units at my local Costco and was impressed with how large they were. I am not a fan of front-loaders, but most top loading machines are pretty boring, so I decided to just hang on to my 15+ year old Magtag washer/dryer which worked fine. After seeing how nice these LG units looked in person, I figured it was finally time to upgrade. After shopping around, I found the best deal (by far) here on Amazon. Including tax (but with free shipping) I paid roughly $300 less than Costco was charging for the same unit. Yes, I was a little nervous buying something like this online, but hey, it's Amazon, right? These units were shipped via freight company (I think it was Old Dominion). If you have not dealt with this situation before, you need to be aware -- the freight company will call you to schedule delivery, but this is not explained at the time you place your order. So, word to the wise -- keep your eyes peeled for voicemails from the freight company, and you may need to call them to confirm the delivery date/time. Aside from shipping, I had one small issue with my dryer -- after installing it, the display flicked on and off, and some of the digits in the time readout were not showing. I called LG and they arranged to have a service tech come to the house a few days later, but the problem eventually fixed itself so I cancelled the service call and so far, the dryer seems to be working correctly. As for the washer, my wife absolutely loves it....but be prepared -- this high efficiency unit does not function like the older top-loading units. My old top loader would fill up with water, then slosh everything around for a while, and then spin, drain, and repeat for the rinse cycle. The LG high efficiency washer does not fill completely with water. Instead, it measures the weight of the clothes at the start of the cycle (it does this by spinning the basket back and forth several times). Once it knows how much the clothes weigh, it will run through a wash cycle that involves partially filling the tub with water, and then spraying additional water onto the clothes as it spins them back and forth. Honestly, if you watch this it doesn't look like the clothes are getting cleaned, but the end results have been extremely good so far. I still have my fingers crossed for these units to be as durable and long-lasting at the old Maytag pair they replaced, but at least for now we're very happy with them. P.S. One other point to consider -- one reason we bought these was due to their huge capacity. However, this is a double-edged sword. Yes, you can run huge loads of laundry in one shot, so that's helpful, but it also means that when the clothes are done drying, you will have a HUGE pile of stuff to fold and put away. Not really a negative thing, but just something to consider.

I was a little hesitant about this, as I wasn't sure if the convenience was worth the cost. After having it up and running over the last month, I'm pleasantly surprised. The key is understanding the cycles and what works best for the different material types. It was fairly easy to install...the hardest part was just getting it level because the ground where I have it is slightly sloped. Once that was done, though, it's been a piece of cake. The first thing that surprised me was the water requirement. I had expected that distilled water would be a requirement like other appliances. Upon reading through the instructions, though, it specifically requires clean tap water and NOT distilled water to function properly. This is especially nice because it always seems when you need something the most, you're out of distilled water (I have a few other devices that need it). I like that I'll never be in a position to have to go to the store before I can use it. Next, the ease of use. The touch buttons on the front of the door are easy to use for sure and take very little training. Loading clothes or blankets in the Styler is also super easy. Anyone expecting a complicated device here will be pleased to find that it's really pretty simple. Again, the key is just understanding up front which cycles / modes are appropriate for different material types, but the documentation included with the unit make it very easy to understand. Finally, appearance. This unit is quite attractive for sure. Sleek, modern and dare I say, even a bit sexy for an appliance. While I didn't have room in my smaller master closet or laundry room, I would not hesitate putting it in either one if I could. If you're building or remodeling and are interested in something like this, I would absolutely recommend adding it to the plan. It not only adds an element of sophistication in terms of pure appearance, but it adds a massive level of convenience. To sum up, I'll say that we have greatly enjoyed the ability to quickly refresh items like wool suits (including the pants crease feature), blankets and even my kids stuffed animals. They come out smelling fresh and clean, and my sport coats / suit pants feel like they've just been dry cleaned. I get much more wear out of them in between full on cleaning now, which will help cost justify the unit in time, too. Also, if you use non-iron dress shirts, this thing works very well with them. I never need to take these shirts to the cleaners at all anymore, which I love. I simply wash them, dry them, and hang them in my closet. Then when I need to wear them, I throw them in the Styler for 30 minutes and they're good to go for my day. We really enjoy having this and recommend it for anyone looking for that added layer of convenience and sophistication to their laundry capabilities at home. The cost of the unit is higher, so I wouldn't say that it's a necessity for everyone, but if you're willing to foot the bill, you'll be glad you did.

This drink refrigerator is amazing! It is the only fridge under $1000 that I have seen that will cool to 34F, and it actually does. I originally bought a similar fridge that was advertised to cool to 38F and cost $200 less. Not only did the fridge arrive poorly packaged, but it was superficially damaged. Furthermore, it never registered a reading lower than 41F from my digital thermometer. In the end I returned it and bought the Avallon. From the moment it arrived my experience was different. It arrived in a well-packaged box via freight delivery on a pallet, with a pallet "do not stack" cone. The box design is ingenious, as the bottom is a separate piece of cardboard and easily separates from the top. That brings me to its footprint: its quite big to be designed for under-counter installation. I had measured the intended space for the fridge and I had exactly 34.5 inches. NOTE: you will need every bit of that space and possibly more. I had to take the feet off, put on some furniture pads to barely avoid metal scraping the floor, and I still had to remove the vinyl flooring to get this behemoth to fit under that counter. I would not recommend buying this fridge if you are set on positioning the fridge under the counter and don't ABSOLUTELY have 34.5 inches to work with. Also, I don't know who has the extra 2-3 inches of depth to provide the ventilation that is recommended in the instruction manual, but I don't so it's recessed as much as possible. I have also read some people feel that the compressor is loud. Maybe because my fridge is such a tight fit against a concrete wall that I do not hear it, but this thing is quiet to my sensitive hearing. Another great feature is the lighting. The lights are placed on every level of the unit and really illuminate the space in an unobstructed way, which I know sounds inconsequential, but makes it look very luxurious. As I mentioned, this fridge really cools as advertised. Maybe even too well! I had to bump up the thermostat to 36F because I have registered a temperature as low as 28-30F when the compressor kicks on (see picture). I did buy the extended warranty offered from Amazon because stainless steel drink fridges are expensive as a lot, and there always seems to be a lemon out there. That said, Avallon has a one-year factory warranty AND will repair/replace your compressor for five years after the date of purchase. I haven't dealt personally with their customer service department, and I hope I don't have to, but it seems like the company stands by their product. My only complaint is that I have had my eye on it for 8 months and it recently went up in price from $719 to $899. In summary, if cold drinks are important to you, don't be fooled by the lower prices of comparable models. This one is the real deal!

Dear Mr Riddle, It it with disappointment that I am writing you about my experience with my LG french door refrigerator. I purchased this refrigerator from Home Depot on 12/7/15. It was installed in my new kitchen in April 2016. I liked refrigerator and all of its features so I was upset when it started intermittently making a loud vibrating sound in July. The sound was coming from the fan behind the filter. As the appliance is covered under the one year manufacturers warranty, I called LG customer service and was told to call a local appliance servicer called "Reliable Appliance Service" myself. The noise stopped by the next day and everything seemed to be working so I never called the service center. Then, sometime during the week of August 22nd the noise started again. Within the week the fan stopped working. All the food on the top of the fridge was warm and everything on the bottom froze. Additionally the ice and water dispenser stopped working and the letters "E rF" were displayed. I called customer support hoping they could tell me what was wrong. They again told me again to call Reliable Appliance Service. I called Reliable Appliance Service and they said that LG needs to schedule the repair or it will be treated as a cash ticket. I called customer support again and was told that they need to submit a request to their service locator team. Several days passed and I heard nothing. By this time all of my food was spoiled. On Friday September 2nd I once again called customer support and was told that they still haven't found a servicer. They would prioritize my case with the service locator team and would return my call on Tuesday, September 6. I never heard back so I called customer support again on Thursday September 8th. I was told that they were still trying to find a servicer that would be willing to come to my house 40 miles from Anchorage, Alaska, and that there was nothing more that they could do. Needless to say by this time I am angry and exhausted. My refrigerator has been broken for over two weeks and your company has conveniently absolved themselves of any duty to fix the problem. Thankfully, Home Depot is willing to pick up the refrigerator and give me a refund. They will be here on Saturday September 10. I will then buy a GE refrigerator. In the mean time I am telling everyone I know to avoid LG products as the appliances are very unreliable and customer service is unwilling to help. I am sure that you have an interest in keeping your company reputation in good standing with potential customers and therefore I am hoping that by informing you of my experience you can assist your team to make a better product and improve customer service. At the very least your company should have been willing to pick up the appliance from my home and take it into servicer. Instead I was offered no help what-so-ever. I have spent hours on the phone with absolutely no interest on your company's behalf of helping. If there is one thing that I can hope come of this is that no one who I know buys an LG appliance. This has been literally the worst customer service experience of my life.

This is the only product I wanted in my renovated modern kitchen, and I got it. It is beautiful, European style, tall and has a lot of space actually. But not all gold what is shinning: Major issues: 1. out of the box the the unit is very nice, and relatively quiet, but, The Crisper Box (middle sections drawer) is sitting on top of the freezer, therefore everything you put in it, is just comes out frozen in a day, so it is basically useless for its purpose (vegetables, fruits, citruses), the only good purpose is to semi-freeze meat or should I say defrost it a bit. I had to actually insulate it with Styrofoam to not freeze the contents of this drawer. 2. after just 1 year, the door handle just broke off completely, amazing most important part of this unit, which need to withstand the most just broke off. After looking at it, I think it was made with the mix of plastic (cheap plastic) and some sort of aluminium. But my question is how is this thing getting tested, with minimal use it just falls off. After some hassle with the manufacturer (since it was past the 1 year warranty, yes guys ONLY 1 year warranty) they were understandable that this is not normal to have handles fall off their units and sent me a replacement actually really fast, I put it back in myself since it is not that complicated, so we while I was waiting I moved the handle from the freezer to the main unit, right? why do we need 2 handles)) 3. This is the most annoying: After 2 month from the handle incident, the alarm on the door started to just randomly sound, (it usually buzzes when you forget to close the door, actually very nice feature) but now it started to sound when the door is closed for 10-20 seconds and all temperatures started to reset and after 20 sec it was quite. After another week it started to sound 30 seconds, and didn't stop until we reopened the door couple of times. (It is still in this condition) I understand electronics in our life could go wrong sometimes, but my main beef is with the manufacturer, not retailer) after some exchanges, they suggested: "If you feel we are not the company you wish to perform business with, we understand & hope you find another brand that does make you happy." The problem with this is that I already DONE business with them buy buying this faulty appliance, and this is regular customer service....so my fellow buyers, if you like this unit, like I still do, and want to spend $200-$300 per visit to fix a sensor (or otherwise you will be listening to 1 minute alarms on this frig) or other things which might fall of after 1 year warranty, go ahead and do business with this company! Or you can get something reliable, not as nice I guess, it is your choice, I just want to warn you guys that after you do business with Summit, they don't want to honor this relationship like it supposed to be.

I was initially amazed at the low price for these Dista water filters but unfortunately now I know why when I tried to actually use the product. 1. Steps to replacing an overpriced outrageously expensive LG OEM 5231JA2006B water filter: rotate the cartridge counter clockwise to click out of place slightly. As you pull out the OEM cartridge, there will be less than 3 ounces of water slightly dribbling through the water escape hole underneath and towards the middle of the water filter container housing which is easily captured by a small plate with a raised edge. When you pull out the LG OEM cartridge completely from the refrigerator, there is ZERO water spillage as you pull out the unit, and replace with new OEM filter. Amount of water spillage clean-up inside the frig, on the front of the frig, and on the floor is ZERO ounces to remove old LG OEM cartridge and install new LG OEM filter. 2. Replacing a poor quality counterfeit Dista water filter: rotate the cartridge counter clockwise to click out of place slightly. Instantaneously there is water GUSHING out of 3 locations simultaneously: at the back of the water filter container housing close to the back of the frig of about 8-16 ounces pouring down the inside wall of the frig, while simultaneously at least 6-10 ounces gushes through the hole underneath and towards the middle of the water filter container completely overflowing the same exact plate that had earlier easily contained less than 3 ounces released by the LG OEM filter, and also simultaneously water gushing out the front of the Dista water filter onto the front of the refrigerator and spilling onto the floor. Then as you pull out the Dista water filter to remove it, excess water that had collected on the bottom of the water filter container housing spills onto the front of the frig and on the floor, which never occurred with the LG OEM filter. Copious amount of water spillage EVERYWHERE inside the frig, on the front of the frig, and on the floor with the poor quality counterfeit Dista water filter. I thought maybe there might have been air build up the first time I removed the OEM filter and installed the Dista filter causing the Dista filter to release an unusually unacceptable amount of water, so I repeated all steps again by reinstalling the LG OEM filter, removing the LG OEM filter, installing the Dista filter, then removing the Dista filter. Same exact results after experiment repeated so am definitely returning this for a refund and now its back to searching for a cheaper solution to the outrageously overpriced LG OEM water filters selling for $50 each. There is no way I want to wait to see if the Dista water filter actually performs its job adequately after such poor quality capability for such a simple process as removing and replacing a water filter. Too bad we are not allowed to leave a customer review with ZERO stars or even 1/2 star.

I have a 7 year old Samsung 33" bottom freezer, french door refrigerator, model Samsung RF217ACPN. This gist of this post is to tell you that you need to swap out several other parts if you are experiencing ice build up in the back of your Samsung Refrigerator possibly along with water in or under the lower drawers. As I understand it, nearly all the Samsung refrigerators built in the last decade use the same cooling and defrost mechanism. Some models do not have a manual defrost mode, and you will need to unplug the refrigerator to actually melt the ice build up. About a year ago, the lower crisper drawers began to fill with water. This indicated a drain freezing problem which necessitates the thawing and replacement of an improved drain heater extension part "SAMSUNG CLIP DRAIN EVAPORATOR REFOEM Original Part: DA61-06796A (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008KFG9NO)" This has a longer drain extension that takes heat from the heating element and extends it into the drain hole to prevent icing or improve defrosting. Samsung realized their original clip was a bit too short and released this improved retrofit. I noticed that the rear of the refrigerator also began to show ice from some of the holes. Normally a 48 hour defrost takes care of it but eventually it would build up to the point that the spinning interior fan starts to hit it. This icing indicates a problem with your defrost system. That's what this heater and bimetal thermostat is to replace. Either the resistance of the thermostat is bad or the heating element isn't heating up properly anymore, but this OEM replacement should fix it for at least a few years. A tip for installation is to loop the connector and thermostat wiring BEHIND the entire cooling coils to make the wires reach the connector easier with less stretching. Another item to replace at the same time while you are back there is the "Samsung DA32-00006S Refrigerator Defrost Sensor (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KGPERM)" is the second of two thermostat sensors for the defrost system. The other yellow cord sensor senses the low temperature frost conditions on the coils. You should move the yellow defrost sensor from the tube on the right to the more central tube on the left. This helps with sensing the ice that grows from the middle outwards. You should replace BOTH defrost sensors as a pair to ensure that you don't revisit the problem in a month. One last tip is for you to extend the front floor riser pegs and lift the front wheels off the ground. This will ensure that the defrost liquid drains properly towards the rear. Not all kitchen floors are level and if it is slanted forward even a little bit, the water can leak out the front vents and frost over after the defrost cycle. So far, I have been frost free and the crisper drawers are dry for months. Don't just replace this one part, you should try to replace a few parts in total. All the components are relatively inexpensive. Good luck in fixing your Samsung refrigerator. I wanted to share this so that others will not have to go through the trouble of addressing this issue piece by piece.

Fits well, have a narrow gap between stove and counter on both sides, < 1/2 inch and these fit well. Pros: - Does what is should, keeps the crumbs out. I cleaned the sides/bottom of my oven before installing these and... yuck, might be crumbs to us but a feast to La Cucaracha! You know the usual stuff, like that milk or oatmeal that boiled over and ran down the side, grease from frying and splattering, grains of rice, etc. (even though we do the usual Spring cleaning). - Easy to cut to fit, appears some negative reviews were due to size but appears that was before they had 21 and 24" options. My stove is 21 and fits nice, in fact had to cut about 1/4 end off the end of each and the width is perfect. I only had to adjust the length so scissors worked fine, but if I had to narrow/cut it lengthwise would use a razor and straight edge of some kind. - Easy to clean, wipes off with soap/water as the product description states, can't say for long term as only being using a couple weeks. - Heat "resistant" - noting I'm careful not to set pans on top of the cover, so nothing has melted yet (but I'm not going to test it). Think this is same silicon as the baking mats, so only takes heat up to a point (obviously easier to control heat in oven than on a stovetop), the cover "sticks" nice so far so haven't had any issues getting too close to a burner. - Forms a pretty good "seal" on both the stove and counter sides, better on the counter side because the counter does not had a lip like the stove, but the cover sits on top of the stovetop lip ok (the divider on the underside of the cove is off center, which is perfect as I need it narrower on the stove side so it's not too close to the burner). Cons: - It's a very matte black. Wish it were more "glossy" (like the underside) to match my glossy black stove, but a minor complaint, probably hard to do considering the material. - It was shipped a little bent (probably Amazon), but still straightened out ok after a day or two because it is pliable, if it had been folder in hald hard to say. - I would not recommend with a gas stove (common sense says that if this handles <450 degrees F (446 per the description) an open flame that's too close or even a really hot pan is a bad idea (natural gas/methane burns at 3,542, almost 8 times what the silicon will tolerate. Overall it's the best solution available to the impossible-to-clean-up mess problem, as others have noted the metal options available out there all suck and silicon is really the only option that takes (some) heat and is also pliable/soft enough to seal. Also appears from other posts the customer service is really good, and they do follow up after your purchase and troll the reviews to make sure you're happy (I would have posted a good review anyways). Bottom line I would buy again and recommend to others.

I purchased this set and installed if a few days ago. For some reason, the dryer is not heating up, so it is taking hours (and several runs) to dry the clothes. There are a bunch of diagnostics that the web site suggests you run when you're experiencing this issue. I have run all of them. The result of all this diagnostic work? The dryer thinks there is a blockage at the air vent and won't heat up because of this. To be sure that this wasn't the case, I just disconnected the dryer hose from the back and let it pour air into my laundry room. Even when it is not connected to anything, the diagnostics still tell the dryer that there is a blockage. SO... I tried to get someone to come repair the dryer by submitting a request online. Filled out all of the information (model #, serial #, description of problem, blah blah...) Then couldn't hit the final 'submit' button. I need to call customer service. SO... I called customer service. After over an HOUR on hold (Incidentally, I got to hear LG's horrendous hold music the entire time along with their recorded voice saying "Thank you for your patience. We recognize your time is valuable and we're working hard to personally respond to your call as soon as we can" - OVER 75 times. (I just quit counting...) THEN... they picked up. (Hallelujah!) The questions he was asking me were so inane that I wondered if I wasn't being punked. ("Let's try running the dryer 4 feet from the wall, instead of 3 feet from the wall to be sure nothing is blocking the air from coming out of the dryer. Huh?") The culmination: LG: "Well, the diagnostic code says the unit isn't getting enough power to heat, so there must be a problem with your outlet" ME: "Uh... but there was another dryer plugged into the outlet the day before this was installed. It worked just fine." LG: "You need to have an electrician come check the outlet before we send our technician to help you" ME: "But this doesn't make any sense. The outlet was working yesterday." LG: ... call disconnected. LG: ... has my number, but no call back SO... I reached out to the chat function. After taking forever to find my record and then seeing that the other call had gotten disconnected, they told me the only thing I could do was call the customer service line and wait on hold until 'one of their specialists' picks up. They also told me the only way to talk to a supervisor was to ... you got it ... call the customer service line. SO... I'm sitting on hold again. I know it has taken me 18 minutes to write this, because that's how long I've been on hold. I'll admit - writing one star reviews is a good way to pass the time when a company is treating you this way. I think I'm feeling better now. Then again, one of these dunderheads is likely going to answer the phone in another 45 minutes. All bets are off when that happens.

<div id="video-block-R2YKYDLEGVWDC7" class="a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block"></div><input type="hidden" name="" value="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/A1ZPXqXdz-S.mp4" class="video-url"><input type="hidden" name="" value="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/91XfG8aBuyS.png" class="video-slate-img-url">&nbsp;Just don't. I bought this from a nationwide home improvement chain. The item was delivered and DEAD ON ARRIVAL. Waiting to be contacted for a repair. I won't hear from the repair company for 1 to 2 business days...then they will have to schedule a repair date. I'll be without a washer for a week. That's IF the repairman has the part required and doesn't have to order the part. And...that Samsung TV I was interested in? Not going to happen. *EDIT* I was called same day for service the following Tuesday. Tech showed up and couldn't fix the machine. He threw in the towel and told me to return it to the home improvement depot chain. I don't blame the tech at all, nice guy, worked with Samsung tech support and just couldn't fix it. Now I have to burn another vacation day and go to the laundromat after work tomorrow. Suggest you steer clear of this product. For me it's turned me away from this brand. *EDIT* I spent two hours on the phone being bounced back and forth between departments at Samsung and the depot home. The big box home improvement chain doesn't want to exchange. Samsung doesn't want to honor the warranty. I'm in the middle after having spent $1000 and wondering why I can't do laundry at home. I went to the laundromat today and paid $9.00 to use the Magnum Load machine. It was HUGE. I washed everything. I started over with Samsung. I asked if my machine is under warranty. (of course it is, I've had it for 5 days) I offered to read they warranty to them. They weren't interested. They are going to send another service company to try to fix it. As of now I don't know when they're coming. I figure I have two weeks worth of clean clothes...will become unhinged if this isn't fixed soon. *EDIT* Yesterday I thought I'd see if I could find contact info for the CEO of Samsung. I found Mr. Lee's email address and sent a polite message. My jaw dropped when I received a reply on his behalf. We exchanged emails and I received a phone call that has me optimistic that this 157 pound space waster might actually wash my clothes soon but (there's always a 'but') after reading the Yelp reviews for the repair company they're sending I'm a bit concerned. Not well reviewed at all. Adding a screen cap of my Verizon call log that substantiates the two hours on the phone mentioned in the previous edit. *EDIT* Day 11 with a dead washing machine. Started looking at legal options and contacted the local TV news consumer watchdogs. Ugh. More gray hair. Thanks Samsung! *FINAL EDIT* Working with Samsung to get a refund.

<div id="video-block-R2KA6GJ6Y3YPNY" class="a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block"></div><input type="hidden" name="" value="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/D1Q0WSAKqqS.mp4" class="video-url"><input type="hidden" name="" value="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/A1ngR1hCyaS.png" class="video-slate-img-url">&nbsp;Never, ever, buy an Electrolux washer and dryer! My husband and I purchased an Electrolux washer (Model EFLS617SIW) and dryer (EFMG617SIW) in September of 2016. We have had nothing but problems with them. We first had them looked at in April, through a place recommended by Electrolux. The repairman ordered parts for the dryer (new board and switch) but did nothing for the washer. We continued to have problems with both machines and then found out the store where we purchased them could service Electrolux. After looking at the machines, the repairman made a few adjustments on the dryer and found that the washer also needed new parts! We went to the store and spoke with a manager. We were told to go ahead and have it fixed, and then we could take it to the next level. Well, we had the washer fixed, and its still not working right! The dryer design is so poor. When drying, clothes come out over the lint trap. The dryer senses that the trap is full, and the machine stops and says clean lint. We understand the concept of saving energy, and that the dryer will stop before the set time if the clothes are dry, but the clothes aren't dry when this happens. Its very annoying to have it stop every few minutes and have to restart. Also, clothes don't dry evenly. For example, if I wash a load of towels, some of them will be dry and some still very damp. It doesnt matter if I do a large load or small, I have the same problem. The washer still vibrates and is loud even after being fixed. When it spins, it sounds like its going to take off. It doesnt matter if its on low, medium or high spin. It all sounds the same. We again contacted the store manager. Apparently taking it to the next level means having them fixed yet again. We don't want to keep having them fixed! What happens when the warranty is up? Electrolux denied the claim that we need new machines. We don't want new Electrolux machines! We want our money back! Electrolux Customer Service is a joke. They just say they are sorry about the problems and understand our frustration. No they dont. We are so disappointed in these machines. They aren't even a year old! Our old washer and dryer lasted about 16 years and never needed serviced. We consider these machines to be lemons. Were tired of dealing with this, and feel that no matter how many times they are fixed, they will never be right.

Common sense and openmindedness are at the heart of Alan Gregerman's tome in praise of strangers. In clear and affable fashion, Gregerman guides his readers in an almost Socratic manner to embrace the insights and wisdom that are available to us once we look beyond the known. Oddly -- or fortuitously -- enough, you and I are engaging in one of the practices he suggests in his book. One of the hallmarks of Amazon is its growing library of peer reviews and images. We don't know each other, and yet you paused in your consideration of this book to find out what earlier readers thought about it. And this is not a one-way street; there's every chance that you may use the "comment" function to add a question or other thought that would transform this from one person's observations and reflections into a conversation. Meantime, back to&nbsp;<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/The-Necessity-of-Strangers-The-Intriguing-Truth-About-Insight-Innovation-and-Success/dp/1118461304/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">The Necessity of Strangers: The Intriguing Truth About Insight, Innovation, and Success</a>. Gregerman begins with context, reviewing reasons for the common mistrust of strangers before illustrating how small even the largest personal network is likely to be. The nod to Socratic method begins with him asking readers to think about effective ways of gathering information, improving product, and thoroughly understanding our underlying mindset -- why we think the way we do, and how we can stretch ourselves beyond the status quo. After exploring context, which he calls framework, Gregerman asks readers to consider how to translate interacting with strangers from abstract to concrete: using these new relationships to spur innovation, collaboration, leadership, and customers, both existing and new (yet more "strangers"). Before setting us loose on a newly inviting world, Gregerman provides a succinct toolkit of strategies and techniques that we can begin using in everyday situations, as well as ways to spur our thinking and reflection. He makes many thought-provoking points, and I believe they are best read in sequence. In fact, if you have an e-reader, you may want to buy the digital version so that you can highlight and annotate particularly salient thoughts. However, it is worth touching on the four guiding principles that are at the heart of this book. "Humility--the belief that we don't know everything and that we can always be better at the things that matter most. Curiosity--our innate gift for being open to new ideas, new people, and new possibilities. Respect--the belief that everyone matters and that we learn and grow by engaging other people on their own terms. Purpose--our reason for being that guides our efforts to learn and grow." Although most of Gregerman's examples and prescriptions deal with the workplace, they are readily applicable to life beyond the office, and even to one's own reflective practice. Indeed, one of the overarching principles is to seek out differences -- different outlooks, different areas of expertise, and even different lands -- and almost immediately to build human bridges of commonality. Particularly dear to my heart is his repeated statement that travel enriches the traveler and brings the world closer. In that vein, if you'd like, please do feel free to treat this review as the start of a conversation.

Update 2/12/14. After 1 yr+ operation, I have to give the Heartland 21000 dryer vent closure a 5 star rating. It performs without all the problems that the flapper-type vent closures typically have--getting stuck open by lint, or by rusting of the springs. When the dryer is not operating, the Heartland closes tight & keeps out fumes from lawn movers, etc. In 1+ yr of operation, it has never stuck open & never gotten clogged by lint. The only problem encountered: during an extreme cold & ice storm, the Heartland "valve" froze in place--apparently due to condensation buildup. But it was easily loosened. As to my original downgrading of the Heartland due to install problems: I agree that install would have been a quick easy job IF the correct dryer vent pipe had been installed in our house. However, previous house owner had cemented-in the vent pipe coming to outside & it had no crimped end extending outside. That's why we had such difficulty. So if you're lucky enough to have a vent pipe outside end with crimping, it will be a "5 star" install for you. If not, you'll have to adapt it like we had to. Success! Finally got it installed and functioning but it took two of us 1.5 hrs. Why? (1) the product description and instructions say that it will fit on a 4" diameter vent pipe, but it won't. The pipe receptacle on the Heartland vent contraption is just barely 4" in diameter; so a 4" diameter aluminum vent pipe will NOT slide inside the Heartland receptacle for the pipe. To get a 4" diameter vent pipe to fit into the receptacle on the Heartland dryer vent, we cut 1" slits in 3 places on the aluminum vent pipe opening. These slits allowed us to squeeze the end of the vent pipe into a slightly narrower diameter than 4", so it could be pressure fitted into the Heartland pipe receptacle. (2) My house has lap siding, and the dryer vent exhaust hole in the side of the house wall was located such that the square base of the Heartland contraption partially overlapped the house brick and partially overlapped the siding. So we had to adapt a piece of styrofoam to fit under the Heartland base so it would sit level. (3) the instructions say that 6 screws are included with the kit, but there were NONE in the package anywhere. So we had to use our own screws. Now that it's installed, it's working fine presently. And I like its design better than the more common metal "flap" that opens when dryer exhaust air flows through the exhaust duct. Over the yrs, I've had several different brands of that style, and after a while, the flap on all of them would not close tight when the dryer was off. Because they wouldn't close tight when the dryer was off, they let lawn mower fumes, etc from outside get into the house. This Heartland vent closure contraption looks like it will prevent that problem. It's made out of thick plastic that looks like it may holdup well over time--we'll see.

(Editing/updating the below review I wrote nine months ago. Machine still going strong. I use it differently now. I found it's good enough to start all my louds on the light wash cycle. It cuts down alot on the time. I add bleach to the whites on the light wash. And I always add fabric softener to the rinse cycle. A small percentage of times after the rinse cycle there may be a little water left at the bottom & the clothes down there didn't spin dry so well. No prob, just restart spin cycle for a couple minutes. It spin dries the clothes so well sometimes that there's even little dry spots. Very happy w/little machine! It is apartment ready & perfect for apartment dwellers!) Works perfectly. Have had a small percentage of unbalanced loads that stopped during spin cycle...no big deal because who starts a load of wash or dry & just leaves it unattended anyway. Need to be there when loads are finshed to take out so won't become wrinkled from sitting too long. A little suds & water came out the bottom the first time because I used too much soap. The next loads I only used 1/4 C or 4 tbsp laundry detergent & there was no leaking whatsoever. The machine really moves the clothes around & washes them great. Not only does it pulse thru the clothes but imitates agitator machines by reversing pulse directions swishing the clothes back and forth. #6 Wash only is a good 6.5 minute prewash. #1 Heavy soil which is 19 minutes long consisting of mainly soaking with a few agitations. #2 Normal wash which is a 15 minute agitation/pulsing wash, then the water is drained. #3 light wash the water is filled up again & washed for 5 minutes. #4 rinse cycle where it is drained & filled up again & pulsed for 3.5 minutes. #5 spin cycle drained & spinned is 5 minutes. #4 & #5 have a safety feature (because it's spinning) the machine will/should stop when lid is lifted. The other cycles you can lift the lid & look inside if want. I found that if I lightly just drop the clothes in to the top it's the right amount. I add liquid fabric softner to the #4 rinse cycle. Works like a charm! Only wish would've got it years ago! :) Can also check with your stores & on-line to see if they offer extended warranties. P.S. Machine does make clicking noises while operating. This is normal (wash & rinse cycles turning off & on)& no big deal. And it does play jingle bells to warn of the ending of the spin & wash only cycles. No big deal, it's usually sufficient to stop spin cycle then anyway. If not just restart it at the beginning or middle of the cycle & let spin couple more minutes.) As soon as my warranty expires, I'm gonna cut that wire!:) I kept my internal connector on from the attachable power swivel faucet (you can find by dish soaps in some stores) which made attaching even quicker/easier for me & works great! In regards to the drain pipe...I just lay it over the edge of the sink without hooking on anything. It hovers a little above the sink bottom. But the weight of the water brings it down when draining. The way the hose is made, it won't move out of the sink or spray all over. I've done several loads now & couldn't be more pleased.

It was 'ignaugurated' at a party I hosted, and the 5 gal keg didn't last long! (Of course, it was a good beer...locally brewed Pacific Coast Emerald Ale.) Be prepared: After it's set up and you've had people over, you're going to be QUITE popular! Expect comments like "I'm going to be over at your place every afternoon." Haier America should realize their best marketing ploy is satisfied customers. I've had it two weeks and Haier may be selling 3 additional units soon. OK, so what about the product rating, especially in light of all the negative comments provided earlier? Well, here's my take on it: - Set up was fairly simple, if you discount the fact that one part was missing (see below). - Quality seems to be adequate. They use quality parts, e.g., the CO2 regulator and dispensing valve. - It's keeping my second (post party) keg perfectly chilled and pressurized. (Since the first keg only lasted several hours, we can't base much judgement on that.) - It's wonderful to come home to a fresh, draft beer! - Finding a place to refill the CO2 canister can be difficult. Most commercial places will only exchange (take your brand new canister and give you a used, filled canister). I finally found a fire extinguisher service that does refills after making MANY calls. Does this make it perfect? Hardly. My experience confirms that Haier America has poor customer service. I purcased the unit a week in advance of a party I was hosting. After getting it home and setting it up, I realized (according to the manual) that it was missing the washer that goes between the CO2 tank and the regulator. I called Haier customer service the following morning and was shocked by how they treated me. The basic tone of their response was "tough luck." I would have to follow their procedures which were: 1) fax or send via US mail my purchase receipt 2) Allow them two business days from their receipt of this to get back to me 3) After doing a 'confirmation' they would send me the washer within two weeks. I was irate and told them so! I had purchased the unit specifically for my upcoming party and now would not be able to use it! Their reponse: "These are our procedures." I did two things after this: 1) I located the manufacturer of the CO2 regulator and contacted them about the possibility of getting a washer. They informed me that the regulator was redesigned and did not need a washer. Haier was supposed to include an update with their user manual (they didn't, and customer service obviously wasn't aware of this change). 2) I located information on Haier America and faxed their CEO an scathing letter telling him what I thought about spending $500 for something and not being able to use it at the function I bought it for! Lo and behold, the next day I received a call from their corporate offices saying they would be overnighting me the missing washer. I explained I had learned it wasn't needed, but the woman calling me wasn't taking any chances. She overnighted it to me anyway. Moral of the story: Make your voice heard when you recieve bad service. Anyway, my 'washerless' set up is now working fine and I'm loving the unit.

I've had this washer for about a month now and really have enjoyed not going to the laundromat! I guess Haier made some adjustments to the confusing parts because my bottom metal plate was labeled "This towards floor." The holes also do not match up well but I found the best way to get the plate on properly is to put in the screws opposite on the diagonal, like when putting a tire on a car. And the lint trap has markings for up & down and can only fit the one way. Took me about 15 min to set up. It is noisy but usually only during the first spin after the wash for the rinse cycle. It sounds like a regular washer's spin cycle but coming from such a small machine I think that's why it sounds horrendous. The most noise comes from the spinning in the rinse cycle, not the actual spin cycle which is a little odd. It doesn't last more than 5 seconds. The heavier the fabrics and larger the load the more noise it makes. The high water level does throw some water (maybe a tablespoons worth) around but it comes from the top of the machine and doesn't get on internal components. It also throws some water on the lower settings with heavier fabrics like towels and jeans. The clothes do come out pretty wrinkled but I have found if you smooth out the fabric before hanging to dry this gets rid of most. But ironing is not that difficult. My landlord lives right behind me, we share the wall where I use this machine and I have not heard any complaints. If I run my dishwasher at the same time I can't hear the washer at all. My dishwasher is actually louder. When I turn on the vent in the bathroom (where the machine is), it masks the sound of the washing cycle fairly well. I use All brand HE detergent & drain the water into a 2 gallon plant watering can (for each drain) & use it to water my non-edible plants. This type of All is biodegradable, safe for grey water use. Not sure about other brands of HE detergent. I use approximately 1/2 of a tablespoon's worth. Clothes come out clean & rinsed well. I also use borax powder and have had no trouble with it dissolving. The Downy ball also works great for the rinse cycle but I recommend putting it in after the wash cycle. It doesn't open during the wash but does slide along the tub & makes more noise. Something that confused me at first was how the water worked. There is no indication in the manual (which is less than useful, there's no point in even attempting to read it) if the machine beeped or anything when adding water. You just hook up the hose & turn the faucet on. Physics prevents it from overflowing or spraying or wasting. The capacity on medium is about the same as an extra small load for a normal sized washer. I can usually fit about 3 days worth of laundry on a medium load. I usually spent about $10/week at the laundry so this should pay for itself in about 6 months after figuring the cost of electricity. I have been able to wash 1 sheet at a time & was even able to wash a crocheted twin size blanket and a queen size fleece blanket. For the most part this is a wonderful machine for the price mostly because it is more convenient than going to the laundry.

We needed a small countertop dishwasher for our rec room, and after a few months of use, I can say this one is working out very well. It shipped quickly, with no damage (the box was pretty tattered, but the packing material and the actual dishwasher were fine). It's large for a countertop device, certainly bigger than most microwaves. Be sure to measure your available space, especially clearance to any cabinets above your installation site. I hit some minor bumps getting it installed. The dishwasher hose nozzle is supposed to connect to your kitchen faucet using a threaded quick-connect coupler included in the box. The coupler is supposed to screw onto the end of the faucet, but the faucet on that sink was a removeable spray handle on a long hose. There's no way for the included adapter to hook up to this, so I wound up having to install a new faucet (this isn't as bad as it sounds, as we were planning to replace the old one anyway). I brought the quick connect adapter to the hardware store with me to be sure it would fit the threads on the new faucet. Everything seemed okay in the store, but when I got home and installed the new faucet, I had some trouble. It turns out that the included adapter isn't particularly good quality, and didn't fit the faucet threads tightly enough to stay in place once the water pressure was actually turned on. I blew the hose nozzle off the end of the new faucet a couple of times until I finally went back to the hardware store and picked up an off-the-shelf adapter. Fortunately, it looks like Danby is using all standard-sized parts, so I was able to replace the flaky adapter with a new one that works well for only a couple of dollars. Once I had the thing up and running, it was easy to load and use. The basket is built to hold four full place settings, but I find that with some creative jiggering I can get it to take in any odd collection of dishes, mugs, baby cups, storage containers and what have you. The basket insert is removeable, converting it to an all-glasses tray, which we found useful for party cleanup. The machine really heats the water, so dishes come out clean. Even sticky stuff like melted cheese usually cleans right up. I've never had to use the heat-boost "sanitize" setting. It uses a very small amount of dishwasher soap and rinse fluid, and you want to be careful NOT to add too much. I made the mistake of overfilling the soap holder (spilled a little too much, figured it would just rinse out, oops) and wound up flooding my countertop in suds. This has only happened once and there was no damage. Call it a learning experience. I saw in some of the other reviews that the timer knob occasionally won't advance when you start running the machine, and this did happen to me once as well after I'd had it for about two weeks. It hasn't recurred since then, either becuase I've been particularly careful to set the timer in the right start position, or the timer's "wearing in." Been using it steadily several times a week for a few months now, and after the initial hiccups, it's been working fine. No complaints, and now I'm looking for a Danby under-counter mini-refigerator to replace one in the same rec room. I'd recommend this dishwasher, provided you don't mind a little effort getting it dialed in.

I bought this after blanching a bit at the $/gallon for some pitcher-style filters and learning about the limited range of substances filtered. I have a stainless restaurant counter and a wall-mount faucet, neither of which lends itself to undercounter filters. Shipping was quick and the filter was packed will. The vendor was kind enough to use cornstarch packing peanuts, so I didn't have to deal with more unrecyclable packing material -- thanks to them for that! Two threaded adapters, with appropriate rubber washers, were included for a variety of faucets -- the unit happened to fit mine correctly without use of an adapter. The threaded mount spins independently of the plunger/aerator component, so you can tighten/untighten without having to spin the hose and filter around. It's knurled, so I got away with screwing it on finger tight using a rubber band to get more torque rather than using pliers (the knurled grip would also hide tool marks better had I not been able to get it tight enough without resorting to a tool). It's also good practice to use a strip of teflon tape when joining threaded plumbing parts, but the CuZn threaded mount had good tolerances -- no tape needed, and no feeling like it was going to cross-thread as I installed it. The aerator on the faucet neck mount works nicely. A narrow hose runs from the faucet to the unit (OK, that's obvious). That means you've got loose hose either dangling from your faucet, or wrapped to keep it trained, zip tied, etc. I don't think it's reasonable to ask the vendor to include clips to train the hose on the diversity of faucets this can be installed on, and I was totally satisfied with what was included. A buyer may wish to think about how discretely you want your hose run and what kind of clip or tie that will involve. The filter is activated by pulling a plunger on the faucet neck mount. The plunger is spring-loaded and held in position by water pressure. Mine's fine, but note that if you have poor water pressure at your faucet you may need to keep the plunger pulled with one hand while filling (so, YMMV). This means that turning off the water "deactivates" the filter -- that's fine, too. I have municipal water that tastes pretty good, but filtering water makes a noticeable difference. The first couple gallons from this filter were gray with fine charcoal silt, but that's to be expected. No inconvenience there. Water from this filter tastes delicious -- noticeably better-tasting than from my Brita pitcher with a fresh filter. The difference extends to coffee -- the other major drink in my life. I like dark coffee that's at least a bit bitter, and I'm ever-so-slightly bummed that this water produces the taste that most sensible really like -- what we tend to call "fuller-bodied, etc." This doesn't qualify as an issue with the device, and after all I can use unfiltered tap water to make my bitter coffee. Why four stars? First, I want to emphasize that I'm 100% satisfied by the filtering and usability characteristics of this thing. While it's not top-heavy, it's not bottom-heavy, either. Putting it in a location to fill a tall vessel like a pitcher has tipped it over a couple times. Because the housing looks like three sections of PVC, I've figured I could glue a flange to the bottom to address this issue. After a week of pretty heavy use (it's summer and my family's thirsty...) I can't say I've been frustrated by this, but have thought "if I were to improve one thing about this device it would be its balance."

Our Western NY location requires a tight house for winter so odors linger without an exhaust fan. We now use the fan often because of the low mechanical and airflow noise. The kitchen heat build-up which previously effected the entire house heating (and hopefully cooling) is now negligible. The improved direct task lighting was an unanticipated benefit. We use 2 - 4.8 watt A15 LED bulbs providing 300 lumens each (80 watt total incandescent) which will probably operate for less than $2.00 a year. Their use may reduce the lens replacement issues often noted for the Broan hoods. We don't use the one-setting nightlight but it is nice with dimmable bulbs. Broan rates the QT230SS as an intermediate value hood and I agree it is above all makers economy models quality after visiting the big box displays (all non-working) for a visual reference. It has a slight 60 cycle hum and fan balance vibration which seems to quit after several minutes, costing it the fifth star, that we don't find objectionable. The 3" x 10" damper provided is flimsy and I took precautions with it during installation. But overall we found the cost and benefits outweigh the minor issues. The Broan replaced a seldom used 10" Nutone which sounded like a jet starting. Ours is horizontally vented thru the wall with the Broan #639 Exterior Wall Cap. It needed a piece of 3-1/4 x 10" x 3" long duct to extend through our thicker wall. All duct connections were sealed with silicone caulk and a good foil tape to prevent air leaks and whistling noises. I sealed around the duct running inside the wall with insulation and fireblock spray foam to rigidize it. Where the duct terminated on the interior wall I installed foam weatherseal (3/8" W. X 3/16" Thk.) on the wall around the duct opening perimeter so it would provide an air seal against the back of the installed hood. I rigidized the provided 3" x 10" damper by installing it on the hood in a bed of silicone caulk and let it set. When set, I pulled the electrical feed through the knockout, then positioned the hood by inserting the attached damper into the wall duct opening while lifting it in place against the weatherseal and shelf above and fastened it with the provided screws. (5/4 x 12-1/2 x 30-1/2 laminated Doug Fir shelf) After connecting the power and running at full speed the attached damper opens 100% and the wall cap damper about 90%. The dampers occasionally flap on windy days but there is little backdraft compared to the old Nutone damper. FOR THE PURIST/ENGINEER and PROBABLY NOT APPROVED BY BROAN, I also placed the same wall weatherseal on the inside of the provided damper for the movable blade to rest against in its closed position to minimize backdraft/airleakage prior to installing it on the hood. The damper is fragile unattached and it was a delicate and tedious procedure to get 100% contact of the blade against the weatherstrip so be duly warned and verify the blade moves freely as you do so. I didn't do this to the exterior wall cap damper because the moisture from cooking vapor will condense and may freeze the blade shut in frigid weather, however the interior damper should be immune to that.

I've waited nearly a year to review this product so that I could better speak to it's durability over time. I have to say, I was a bit wary of buying this because of some of the negative reviews, but I'm so glad I did! I live in New York City and have never had a dishwasher. My kitchen sink was always chock full of last nights dinner plates, utensils, pans, etc. I absolutely hate to hand wash dishes. Every time I'd visit a friend who had a dishwasher, I'd salivate just thinking how great it would be to have one of my own. So, I put the Danby 496W on my wish list last year and received it in mid-December. To date, I've had NO problems whatsoever. It runs like a dream, hasn't leaked, and cleans amazingly well. I was so psyched to use my new dishwasher that I literally washed every single thing I owned the first day I had it. Does this sound extreme, well, if you're someone who'd rather insert bamboo spikes under your fingernails than hand wash dishes, than you understand my elation. I do think you have to be careful when you use it so that you don't have some of the problems others have had: TIPS 1. Clean out the food screen each time your run the dishwasher. 2. Run the hot water first to get it really hot before connecting the dishwasher. 3. As soon as your cycle is done, crack the door open so dishes can dry quickly. This will also help save your window's seal and it will be less likely to leak! 4. Clean out the dishwasher once per month. I pour two cups of white vinegar into the bottom of my empty dishwasher (make sure to do this after water has filled the machine, just before the cycle starts) and then run it through the longest cycle. It will help dissolve any buildup and will keep your dishwasher running well. 5. Be careful how you load the dishwasher. As another reviewer said, if you have a dishes or utensils in certain places, they will hang down too low and the spinner arm will hit them and not work properly. This isn't that complicated, you figure out how to best load it by trial and error. It's amazing how much you can cram in this and still get a sparkling clean load! For example, I've put six 10.5 inch dinner plates, 4 salad plates, 3 bowls, 4 mugs, two 10-inch knives, two wooden spoons. 6. Let's be honest, the 'cup' rack/shelf on the upper left side of the dishwasher is useless for cups. I've found it very useful for washing small bowls (i.e. cereal bowls). This frees up more room for mugs in the bottom rack. 7. Once you've got your dishwasher fully loaded, slide utensils like long chef's knives, wooden spoons, etc. in between your other dishes so that they are lying on their sides. Just make sure that they aren't hanging down too low! 8. I find that powdered detergent works better than gel detergent. I have no idea why, but I really thing it cleans better. Make sure to use detergent that contains enzymes as they help dissolve leftover food from your plates and utensils. UPDATE! Just wanted to circle back to let everyone know that my Danby is STILL going strong after two years. I've had zero problems with it and continue to love it! YEAR THREE UPDATE - December 2009 Today was the THIRD anniversary of my beloved Danby dishwasher. Still running perfectly. I will try and post a video showing how it runs and how much you can fit in it. Glad people are finding the tips helpful!

Most of the reviews are spot on and were extremely helpful for me in setting up this Kegorator. A few exceptions to note: 1. Again, they could do better with the instructions; the tower seal can be found on the plug (that would be used if you were using this as a fridge only and were not installing the beer tower). It is very difficult to twist the tower into the locking position with the seal on there. I got help from a friend and one pushed the tower down while one twisted it. I guess you can use some sort of non-toxic lubricant as well. 2. The spring that you remove from the coupler does not get reinstalled at all. I assume it is strictly there for shipping. 3. The spare parts are exactly that, spare parts. Dont worry that you have a lot of parts left over after assembly. 4. DO NOT PURCHASE A 15.5 GAL HALF KEG AS YOUR FIRST KEG. Trust me on this, it took me a few days to get my temperature/pressure just right. You cannot see the gauges with a full keg so purchase a (7.75 Gal) so you can see and reach your regulator for adjustments. Also, you could lose some beer during the dial in process. 5. The regulator that comes with this unit is JUNK! Mine came with an allen wrench, but there was no setscrew in the regulator to turn. Plus, the thing leaked so bad through the adjustment I just went ahead and purchased a Taprite dual guage regulator from Cornykeg.com for $47.95, as well as a new 6 5/16 hose. The unit is still a terrific value even with the terrible regulator. 6. I like cold beer (~34 degrees), but at the highest setting out of the box the fridge only got to 42 degrees. I purchased a cheap fridge thermometer from Walmart and keep in the Kerorator to ensure Im getting the temps right before making any adjustments. Kudos to the person who first posted these directions on adjusting the thermostat. On the back of the unit youll find your temp adjustment knob. Place the knob halfway between min and max and remove the knob. Remove the two screws holding the box onto the unit, then remove the two screws holding the thermostat to the box. There is a screw just over where the shaft for the knob is. Turn that one full turn clockwise. Wait a few hours and see what your temp goes to. If you have a keg in there it could take longer. I didn't put the thermostat back together until I had it dialed in perfectly, but the choice is yours. You should be able to regulate the temp with the knob now between 32-38 degrees (thats what mine does). 7. I suggest purchasing an additional Co2 tank and keeping a rotating pool. When the regulator that came with the unit leaked out all my gas in two days I was prepared with the new regulator/hose and a fresh tank. 8. Now that Im dialed in Im ready for a 15.5 Gal keg! Aside from the crappy regulator and ambiguous instructions this unit is really a value buy at $383.00 delivered to your door. I definitely recommend it to those who love the taste of fresh draft beer in the comfort of your own home.

The quality control about this product has been a total joke. I was new to the different types of kegs, etc., when I looked into getting this for the office. Just the same, I saw that this was compatible with D-link and Cornelius kegs. I ended up buying a Cornelius pin-lock (incidentally, I'd recommend now getting a Cornelius 'ball' lock, which is a lot more common with home brewing, and was confused until I figured out what was going on when this thing came in. Be aware that this Kegorator is configured for D-link kegs, which are only used commercially and un-cleanable for normal folk without specialized equipment. First things first. The kegerator came with a dented door, and the first night of going through the directions and the parts, I noticed the air hose and connector intended to connect the coupler and the CO2 regulator was missing. It was also missing the gasket that goes between the tower and the top of the fridge. The good thing about dealing with Amazon was that they agreed to refund me $100 for the dents and that it might cost me extra money to obtain replacement parts from Nostalgia. So to adapt the parts to a pin lock keg, I had to go to the local supply store and purchase some extra stuff, some red hose line for the CO2, the things to attach the lines to the keg, and various adaptors and barbs from a couple of home improvement stores. Then, when I had everything together and turned on the gas the first time, the regulator that came with the kegerator had a small leak at the gas capacity gauge. I haven't tested the temperature of the fridge yet, but was annoyed to see that the temp dial was in the lower back corner, where I intended to have the kegerator sitting in a corner. Terrible place for that dial. For anyone who would put the kegerator anywhere except sitting totally out in the open. After all was said and done, it took a lot of time and several trips to various places, and quite a bit of improvising, to get this up and running properly, and I still intend to contact Nostalgia to have them replace the regulator, because I'm leaking minute amounts of gas. Amazon was a good sport, of course, with customer service, but this would have been a major pain to just return and exchange via Prime. I'll update the review with the results of dealing with Nostalgia directly, as well as the temperature and other new developments. --- Update: The beer isn't as cold as ideal, but it is okay I guess. My thermal imager is gauging it in the high 30's. I contacted Nostalgia about the regulator, and after having me describe it (to determine whether or not it was a warranty issue), they sent me a replacement regulator and tower gasket without hesitation. --- Update (2014) When we moved offices, I replaced the regulator that Nostalgia sent, but there's still a small leak somewhere in there, so we're stuck with leaving the gas off until we want to pour some beer, at which time I'll turn it on until it's pressurized, then turn it off again. The pressure valve is finnicky and requires frequent readjustment. The beer is cool, but at max refrigeration settings, this kegerator cannot achieve ideal temperature. Keeping an eye out for a replacement.

I bought this model in January 2012. It's worked great so far and we have enjoyed many 1/2 barrels and 1/6 barrels of beer. As stated in other reviews, don't pay attention to the old reviews. This is a good, quality kegerator. FYI - 1/2 barrels are the ones you see at keg parties and are approximately 15.5 gallons and weigh about 160 pounds. 1/6 barrels are the same height as a 1/2 barrel keg, but are much skinnier and are approximately 5.5 gallons and weigh about 60 pounds. There have been a few items that I wish I would have known about, which would have prevented some frustration along the way. These may be common sense to some, but as a newbie kegerator owner, I didn't have a clue. I wanted to share in case other newbies can benefit from my experiences. I found these things out on my own or after searching the internet. Faucet * Clean it after every keg. It comes apart, so disassemble it every time and clean it thoroughly. * To keep the faucet from sticking, take a small spray bottle of water and spray water up into the faucet. It sticks after a day or two of not being used and sometimes it's really difficult to pull the faucet. Something about the sugars in the beer are exposed to air which makes the faucet stick. Consider getting a Perlic faucet to prevent this. Cleaning * Clean everything after every keg. This may be a little overkill, but I didn't clean it after three 1/6 barrels of the same beer and I got beer stones in my lines. Basically, it discolored my beer lines making them look dirty. CO2 Bottles * This comes with a 2.5 lb. bottle, which works just fine. Probably lasts for 5-6 kegs. I now have a 5 lb. bottle (which does fit on the back shelf even with the regulator on it) and it's lasted me for seven 1/2 barrels and it's still showing that I have quite a bit left. Replacement parts * This kegerator comes with a few parts, but it's a good idea to get a few more, especially the rubber washers. Also have some extra beer line on hand, with the proper connectors. * The parts it does come with are OK, but I have replaced the faucet and lines with better quality units, which make it even better. Other notes * Let a keg sit at least 2-3 hours after transporting it to let the beer settle, otherwise you could have very foamy beer. It's even better if you let it sit overnight. * You can transport a keg on its side without issue, just let it sit for at least a couple of hours. * Not all kegs are created equal. Most foreign beers (and some domestic craft beers) either will not fit in this kegerator or need a different keg coupler to connect to this kegerator. * I actually have this model built into my bar. While it's not designed to be put into a bar, I made sure I have plenty of ventilation by putting 2-3 small fans near the back of the unit to keep everything as cool as possible. I use small USB computer fans to do this plugged into a regular outlet. * This has drastically reduced my bar tab at some of my favorite establishments as I don't need to go out much anymore. Hope this helps someone out there that has or is looking to buy this kegerator.

I too was a little skeptical at first, but it all worked out fine. First off; read, read, read others reviews for installation tips. I did and it all worked out for the best. First off, if you're going to go ahead and upgrade to a 5-gal CO2 tank, do it and order at the same time you order your kegorator. You'll end up saving a few dollars. I didn't and instead of paying $60 through Amazon, I paid $90 + tax for an empty tank. Here are more recommendations: 1. The instuctions are a little vague, but try to follow them and the recommendations of others. There are lots of extra little gaskets and misc. parts that are shipped with your unit. Don't panic and think you've missed a step. 2. As recomended, use teflon tape on all fittings. 3. It doesn't tell you in the manual, but do as others recommende and USE the rubber gasket when you install the beer dispenser tower. I sprayed the gasket with WD-40 first. It was still a bit of work to twist and lock the tower, but if you omit installing this gasket, you'll lose cold air. 4. When you first instal your CO2 tank to set your pressure, be sure to turn the regulator valve all the way off, the open the tank valve (just one turn), then open your regulator valve to the required pressue (7-11 psi). I found it easier to set the preferred pressure at the CO2 valve and when it stabilized, I used the allen wrench to lock the regulator valve at that pressure. Note: Be patient when making this adjustment. Turn it slighly and wait for it to stabilize. 5. I was one of the unfortunate few who's kegorator did not get cold enough at first. The coldest it got was 40 degrees with it turned to MAX and waiting overnight for it to cool down. I followed the recommendation of others, removed the thermostat housing and thermostat, adjusted the screw a few turns clockwise and reinstalled thermostat. Now the temperature sits at 36 degrees with the thermostat set just a 1/2" before the max setting. Now for the not so good part. After all was said and done (e.g. correct temperature and CO2 pressure), I tapped my keg and discovered that I had a faulty beer line. It had a pin hole at the 90-degree bend of the beer line tail piece. Beer went everywhere which of course rendered the unit unuseable. I called the number in the instruction booklet, explainded my issue and they sent a complete beer tower at no cost. BTW, I went ahead a purchased a replacement metal tail piece at a local Home Brew store, cut the plastic tube, inserted the new piece, clamped it down with one of the 'extra' clamps provided and it works fine. I have an extra beer tower just in case. I now have ice cold Yuengling Lager on tap. So, if you follow the recommendation of others, and with a little patience, you shouldn't have many, if any, issues. Update: It's been well over a year and my Kegorator is still working like a charm. Cold, cold beer! Cheers.

A few things to note. The packaging was poor. There was a black metal tray that was dented and bent, thankfully it doesn't seem to be a required piece of the unit, so that is good. At least I haven't been able to find it located in the parts list or in the installation manuals. The bag holding all the small o-rings and various parts was torn and ripped open, so I had to literally examine every inch of packaging hoping to find all the lose parts that had been thrown about, some of which even fell out of the box as I first opened it up (the bag was zip loc, not sealed, which only exasperated the situation). Thankfully, most of these are extras, so even if I had lost some of them I would have probably been fine, except for a few special o-rings. Everything was filthy, dirty. I had to clean and disinfect every inch of every part, including the inside of the main unit itself, because they were covered with dirt, dust, packaging goop, tape stick-um, etc. etc. I had planned on wiping down most things anyway, but the amount of crap everywhere was ridiculous. The little tiny allen wrench in the parts bag is used to loosen the control knob on the two stage regulator, who's screw is on one side of the regulator knob body. Just an FYI because there is no picture of its location, only a lacking explanation. The screw caps on the bottom that are used to level the unit if the wheels are not installed are cheap, and one of mine was broken off, so the unit will not sit level, unless if I were to install the wheels, which I don't need to do for my purposes, but may have to in order to keep the unit from wobbling. FYI, the values they have for length and width are actually backwards. The width (side to side) is actually the 20", and the length (back to front) is the 25". The temperature control knob is actually behind the unit, on the left, beside the compressor. In case you go stick it in a cubby hole, make sure you adjust this knob first so you don't have to pull it back out to reach it. Regardless, the unit isn't all that heavy, so its not that bad to move, just a bit large is all. Having said all of that, everything went together relatively easy. The shear amount of parts seems daunting at first, but once assembled its really not all that bad. The unit itself looks really nice. I wish the hole where you mount the tower was a little further forward, but whatever. I have not actually used it thus far as anything other than a fridge (I need to modify my bar a bit first before I can officially install it), so I cannot say whether its main function actually works as intended, but up till now, at a medium temperature setting, it has gotten very cold. I need to measure the temp, but coming from my main fridge at 35, to this unit, the beer does not seem any warmer, so that is something. When I eventually try it out as a real kegerator, I will update this review to account for any new findings. Until then, the fridge works well, and the parts go together easy enough, and look like they should work w/o a hitch. The unit gets cold, and it got cold fast, so you should be fine in that regard. It seems to have frosted up a bit near the back plate, hopefully that goes away.

UPDATED 14April2012. I've had this keg-o-rator for a few months now. I really wanted it to be good and started it a four stars. I now have to drop it to two stars as I would not recommend it. The price is great, but I would suggest getting one that works from the start. Or better yet, build your own out of an old refrigerator. On this model, I like how they added a concave door to a mini-fridge to accommodate a full sized keg (1/2 barrel). I also like how the CO2 connections are threaded. Hose clamps are included but not needed for this set up. Actually there are a lot of parts included that are not used in the set up. They must be leftover from the original design. You can tell this design is very different from what is described in older reviews (2010 and before). I gave two stars because of four issues. I will list them in order of my concern. 1. When the compressor is off the unit is quiet (of course). At the coldest setting the compressor kicks on about every 15-20 minutes and it is too loud for a living room. I have it in the next room over and it is still annoying. There is no insulation to absorb the compressor sound. I considered insulation, but that would restrict needed air flow. 2. Originally at the coldest setting the temperature inside is 40-44 degrees. After reading another post I learned that there is an adjustment screw under the thermostat cover. I took off the thermostat cover and gave the screw two full clockwise turns. That made it too cold and I was unable to adequately adjust the temperature with the thermostat. I had to turn the screw back about 3/4 of a turn. Now the temp ranges from 34-39 degrees at the coldest setting. 3. The included CO2 bottle is less than a standard 5 pound bottle. This is probably so you can get it up on the little shelf in the back of the keg-o-rator and out of the way for a full sized keg. My local supplier does not refill CO2 bottles. He only swaps out standard bottles. I had to buy a 5 pound bottle for $100. Future swaps are only $14. The 5# bottle will not fit inside the included CO2 bottle strap. I did get the 5# bottle onto the shelf, but the shelf is too narrow to keep it from falling forward. This is very dangerous for a compressed gas bottle, but I was able to keep it up there by tying it down with line to the brackets installed for the smaller bottle. 4. My last concern is small, because I have a personal preference for German beer. Most people will drink use local beer kegs which fit fine. This unit will not hold a keg of Spaten with the coupler installed. This unit comes with the US style coupler which matches most kegs. I like Spaten which required me to purchase a German slider coupler. I easily attached the new coupler because of the threaded connections, but it was about two inches too tall to fit inside the keg-o-rator. I took out the keg plate at the bottom of the keg-o-rator and was still off by an inch. Bottom line is I spent $350 for the keg-o-rator, $100 for the 5# CO2 bottle and $80 for the new coupler (which was optional). It is noisy and I had to modify the thermostat to get it cold enough. If I had it to do over again I would stick with bottled beer or build my own keg-orator out of an old (quiet) refrigerator.

For those wanting measurements for the mounting holes, here are the measurements from the manufacturer and I even took the time to verify the measurements against my set: A. The two outer holes for the fan blade measure 3 - 15/16" apart on center. B. The distance from either outer hole to the single center hole is 2 -5/8". C. The two holes to mount the arm to the motor measure 2 -1/16" apart on center. (Measured from the center of both holes) I've provided a customer image to help explain. I doubled checked these with my fan blade arms and the measurements check out. I hope that helps someone out! Just don't get mad at me if the manufacturer changes things up at some point. I just used a set of these to save an aging ceiling fan in my parents' house. I was helping my momd dust an old ceiling fan and I just lightly touched one of the blades and it fell off. It must have been cracked and waiting to let go. I'm just glad I found it this way instead of turning on the ceiling fan and discovering it the hard way. These blades fit perfectly on an old fan that isn't even a Westinghouse brand. The only measurement I was concerned with was the width of the bracket going to the motor. The holes lined up just fine but the bracket width of the motor mount area itself was a little larger. Fortunately it wasn't significant enough to cause any fit issues. (I was worried about possibly needing to grind down the ends of the mounts at first glance.) These feel a little lighter than the originals but they still feel sturdy and well made. PROS: + Affordable and much cheaper than replacing an entire fan (This saved my parents $100 ) + Easy to install if the holes line up + Hardware to mount the blade to the arm is provided. (You need to reuse the old screws that mount the blade arms to the fan motor itself) + A set of 5 maintains balance so you don't get a wobble or off balance fan from using a mix of old and new arms. + Even if the holes don't line up correctly for the fan blades you can drill new holes (Just make sure you follow the instructions and keep things centered.) CONS; - If the holes don't line up you may need to drill your fan blades - I understand why but you can't buy these unless you buy an entire pack of 4 or 5. If you'd break a replacement mount again in the future you'll still need to purchase 4 or 5 because that's how they're sold. TIPS: - You really should replace ALL of your old fan blade arms even if only one or two are damaged. This is recommended to maintain proper balance. These replacements almost definitely have a different weight than the original fan blade arms. Having a lighter arm on one side and a heaver arm on the other can lead to balance problems, wobble and more. Play it safe and take the extra time to replace them all. - Save your old/existing screws that mount your fan blades to the fan itself. (2 per fan blade arm) These screws aren't provided with your purchase and you'll need them to reinstall the fan blades. - The most important/critical measurement is going to be the measurement for C. (the distance between the two holes that mount the fan blade arm assembly to the fan motor itself. You can always do a little drilling on the fan blades themselves if the other 3 holes don't line up properly.

The edgestar countertop dishwasher is a very good dishwasher. It is short enough to fit under my cabinet doors, and just the perfect size to fit between my sink and oven. You will definitely want to measure hieght, width, and length of your countertop next to your sink before purchase, since if it is even a little too large, it obvious won't fit and makes it's relative usefulness 0. The product in question cleans my dishes well. Some dishes have to be placed in the dishwasher at an angle. You can fit most pots and pans in there, as long as you are willing to dedicate a wash to just one or two pots or pans. The only thing I haven't been able to fit are cookie sheets. On a daily basis, I usually must preform 2-3 washes between me an my fiancee to keep the dish sink empty. The item is relatively light weight, and with the exception of it's size, I had no problem lifting it up to the counter. If you are restricted to a small apartment without a dishwasher, this is a great idea in order to keep your dishes clean. The product recommends attaching a permanent water line, which kind of defeats the purpose of a portable dishwasher. However, the sink attachment works great. Both hoses are attached together, so you don't have to worry about one flying out of the sink. It easily detaches and reattaches, no leakage as long as you make it secure. It also has a release button to release pressure safely before you remove the attachment. The dishwasher consists of three cycles. Normal/short/ and rinse. When you start Normal cycle with the eggtimer style clock it will continue on through short cycle. After short cycle is done, it stops. You will need th start rinse cycle manually, but since this cycle is only a convenience, not a necessity, it's up to you whether to use it. There are two other buttons, the power button (self explanatory) and the saniwash dry button. The sani button superheats the water in order to be sanitary. It also seems to help with the after drying, seeming to be kind of a steam dry. It is very useful if you accidentally let some bacteria start growing on something you washed to be extra sanitary. I would not recommend using all the time however, since the hotter temp it uses probably puts more wear and tear on the dishwasher, although thats just a theory, nothing confirmed. Anyway, great device for people who hate doing dishes and want a slightly easier time. It's noisy, but not much more than any standard dishwasher. Make sure it fits and you shouldn't have any difficulty with it. Update: About two months after getting it, the attachment to the sink broke. I called them back, they asked for my tracking number, which I had to obtain from the seller. After that, they sent me the attachment free no questions asked, arrive in 5 days, not a bad deal... UPDATE 2: I no longer have this dishwasher. The attachment I spoke of breaking I ended up having to replace 3 more times before I finally used my own hose attachments and rigged my own attachment that was metal and held up better. Shortly after, the dishwasher started leaking through the glass door. This was roughly two years after getting it. At that point, I had to put it to rest, as I was unable to repair it. It does seem to be the best dishwasher out there for that size, but I have found it riddled with problems and there always seemed to be something with it breaking. It's great if you don't have a choice, but for $100 more, most cheap full size dishwashers could outperform this one any-day.

After I moved into my New apt. and had to pay for my water for 1st time I decided to buy a Brand New Washer & Dryer set,at the time I had a little X-tra money and seeing I was going to be on a Fixed Income now that it might be a good idea,washers & Dryers usually last at least 10 years or so and it was an Energy Star,save more money and being a single mom this was good. Well things went well for awhile the washer cleaned well and spun so much water out they took no time at all to dry esp. in my New Matching Dryer,then one day I goto check my wash and find my Basement is Flooded & water is Comming out the Front Door of this Washer,so I run to shut it off,and clean up the water that I have to Pay for,then we try again and yep it still is leaking out and I end up having to call a Repair Guy,he comes and finds the problem but doesn't carry the needed part but charges me about 60.00,I order the part & Install myself to save a few bucks and it works fine,for awhile anyway... A few months latter Again we have the Flow of Water out the Front Door of the washer but no real reason for it,and again I have to clean up water all over the Basement & then it seems to be fine and working. So a few months latter I throw in a load of laundry and when it was done I went to get it,well I can't seem to get the Washer Door Open and Nothing I did would get it to Open it's holding my wash Hostage and I was SO MAD Now What? I looked,I fiddled,I even called my electrician friend to see if he could by pass a switch or something but Nope that didn't work & I just didn't have the money to get the repair guy over again so I left the wash in there,either that or I break the door to get my wash & I allready wasted enough I felt,thank goodness I still had my old washer to use. Not long after washer Nightmare I went to dry my wash and the Dryer was making a Horrible noise,so I look around inside mabey it's change or something,Nope,I was afraid to use it,it sounded that Bad. So after going to the laundromat a few times I said this is Stupid,so I went & took the Dryer apart to see if I could see anything,well let me warn you if U ever need to look inside yours be Carfull it's Super Sharp inside,guess they couldn't bother to grind the sharp edges,my son ran & got me a couple Band-Aids & I kept going,I didn't see anything wrong and put it all back together,the noise isn't as bad as before so I'm just gonna keep using it as long as I can unless I find a new affordable set. I only used the "Set" for around 2 years & Less before I started having problems with Washer. When they say it's Energy Efficient there Not Lying esp. when the washer uses No Electricity when it's Not Plugged In/Working & Great on Water esp. when it's no longer hooked-up!! I wish I had the X-Tra 400.00 for extended Warranty but I could've bought a brand new one for that much. For Sale Energy King,Queen: Broken Fairly New Washer/Dryer Set,Excellent on Water & Elect. Kidding....

Updated Review... I may end up saving a lot of peoples aggravation with this unit with this information. When I purchased this unit, I owned it for about 6 months and the "Water Out" was flashing when there was water in it. Drained it all out, put new water in, and same problem. Called support, ended up paying $$$$ to send it back in for repair/replacement and got the new one back. After about a years of use, and I use it daily and love it, same problem last month. The only thing I did was did a clean as recommended in the instructions with vinegar and water, used it for about a week, and presto, back to the same problem. The unit is out of warranty, and I was just going to toss the whole thing into the trash I was so fed up. Instead, I got online, poked around and heard about how this guy tore the whole unit apart, because of the same problem. I did the same thing, but I should have continued reading. There is a filter in the water intake like a mesh screen (in the little notch in the water reservoir) that was clogged. Unfortunately, I tore all the plumbing out, forced a plastic straw down the water intake pipe, it popped out and sure enough, it was clogged. I put the everything back into place, while pieces of the unit were sitting all over the kitchen with my girlfriend looking at me like I was going nuts or something, plugged it back in, loaded it with water, and off it went making ice again. In the parts diagram in the book, it does not show you this piece which kind of ticks me off because I spent a good part of the afternoon ripping the unit apart and putting it back together again. And then thinking of all the money I spent to send it back to Newair with them not mentioning this to me. And the part must cost .05 cents tops!!!! I don't have fingernails, I keep them trimmed up, but I could have easily had the problem resolved in a few minutes had I known that was the problem. And I almost ended up just trashing the unit. Original Review. Was a little skeptical about this machine, but when it arrived, I had to check it out. Did the recommended cleaning, rinsed it all out, poured a gallon of water in it, and it took off making ice like you would not believe. One other thing I was curious about is how much electric does this thing really suck up. I have a Killowatt meter and started measuring how many kilowatts it uses. To my surprise, a all 1/2 day hook up and running full time does not even generate 1/2 killowatts. Amazing!!!! No problems with smell have no smell, and I did a clean cycle with viniger), works great out of the box, and not a big energy user but it sure sounds like it sucks up some power but my Killowatt is not showing signs of that. In the past being on well water, with the hardness, I don't think I would want to try that out. I am sure it will clog things up over a short period of time. I am on nice clean city water. Once this baby starts making it first batches of ice, it just rocks and rolls. Very nice product. A little big, a little noisy, but that's ok. Picture shows it as being smaller. Very good price for what I received and does more than what I expected. Good job NewAir.

We use tons of ice, for blended shakes and ice tea/soda, usually at least three 7lb bags a week. But reading the reviews it seemed like ordering this could be hit or miss and spending this kind of money on a 50/50 chance made me beg off. But my Wife got it for me for Christmas, and I have to say it has worked great and we love it so far. Here are my thoughts and recommendations based on the doubts I had after reading the bad reviews. First, let it sit, we let our machine sit upright for over 24 hours before we used it for the first time. Second, clean the interior with a very mild soap solution and then rinse it very well and dry it off. Third, toss the fist few batches of ice just to make sure you get rid of any batches with lingering flavors from the plastic. Fourth, use filtered or some other source of clean water that tastes good to you. Fifth, if you want to put the ice in the freezer use 1 gallon plastic bags. Sixth, Profit! One of my biggest fears was that people said putting the ice in the freezer turned it into a big giant frozen blob, and this would make using it in shakes very hard, but we found an easy solution for this. Instead of putting the cubes into a ice bucket we put the cubes into a 1 gallon plastic bag. Each time we add ice to the bag we simply break the ice in the bag up, it is very easy to break apart and once you do it usually stays loose. The bag is a very easy way to move and pour the ice into a glass or a blender. It takes about one Britta pitcher full of water to fill up the machine and that makes about two full 1 gallon bags of ice on the small cube setting. And we usually run the machine for one full water cycle a day and that has kept us in plenty of ice, enough to make 3 shakes a day and have 2 to 4 cups of tea/soda a day. How long the machine runs is up to you, once the basket if full, about 4 to 5 batches, the machine will shut off until you clear the basket, so if you stay on top of it, it will only take about 3 to 4 hours to make the entire batch. The ice tray drains right back into the water reservoir so even though the machine interior is cold you do not have to worry about melting ice if you forget. The machine is relatively quiet but it does have a fan on the side that runs from time to time. And even when the machine says its out of water there will still be about a half inch of water in the reservoir. So if you plan to leave it off for a while you may want to drain the water. I have noticed that if the basket fills up and the machine shuts off, once you clear the basket it may not start making ice again right away. There is a small metal probe that the basket sits on, this is a thermometer, and if ice is touching the probe it shuts down. So to get the machine started right away after you dump the basket just put your fingers on the metal probe to warm it up and it will start making ice right away. So far this is a complete win, we are saving over 250 dollars a year on ice, and even if this machine only lasts 6 months, and we have to buy another one we are still saving money. Plus add the convince of not having to constantly buy ice and it just keeps getting better. If you have any doubts just go for it, and follow these instructions, you can always get a refund so there really is no risk.

I have had this unit for almost 2 years and it has been plugged in and running 24/7. We bought it originally because we do lots of shakes and smoothies and my refrigerator icemaker never came back to life after 3 attempts at repairs. We got tired of buying bags of ice, and we use way too much ice to use trays, so we bought this icemaker from amazon in 2013. It is awesome! I keep it right on my kitchen counter between the sink and the blender. I fill a pitcher with water from the sink and pour it into the unit, and I scoop the ice right from the unit into the blender. The only reason I gave it 4 stars is because the plastic water tray that holds the water where the ice is actually made just got a crack in it, and now the unit will not make any ice. I live in an area with very hard (well) water and we put water right out of the faucet into the unit. I wonder if the plastic just couldn't handle the minerals in the water here(?). Anyway, after 3 frustrating weeks of doing ice trays and bags, and since my 14 year old refrigerator doesn't seem to be on its deathbed, I'm back on amazon contemplating buying another one. Even though the first one lasted only 2 years, for the price I paid vs. the extraordinary convenience I feel like it is worth it AND much cheaper than buying a new refrigerator. Here are a couple of items to note: 1. If you leave the unit on, it will stay cold enough to keep the ice in the bucket mostly frozen, and as long as you use the ice at a steady pace, you don't need to dump the extra ice in your fridge freezer. Note, however, this unit is not a freezer. The inside is basically cold like a refrigerator is. At the times when we've wanted extra ice on hand, we simply dump the ice into our fridge freezer more often and this unit just keeps pumping it out. 2. If the unit has been unplugged for a while, or if you are using faucet water (vs. cold water from the fridge), or if the unit is running outside (at a campground or picnic for example) we have noticed that it takes longer to make the first couple batches of ice. I think this is due to the fact that when the unit is warm, or the water is warm, then it has to take extra time to cool itself down. But once it's been on a while, the batches come fast and steady and there's no slowdown unless it runs low on water or if it fills up the basket. 3. If the power goes out or the unit is shutdown mid-cycle, follow the directions on the label in the unit to get it to restart properly. Restarting it can be a little unreliable if you don't follow the directions. 4. It does make some noise when it's running, and of course you can hear it when it dumps the ice in the bucket, just like with a regular refrigerator ice maker. I noticed the noise the most when it was running low on water. It was never noisy enough to really be a bother, however, and i could certainly talk on the phone or have conversations and not get distracted by the noise. The best way i can describe it was almost like having white noise in the background. Visitors to my home frequently noticed the unit in my kitchen, but only because of the bright red box on the counter, not due to the noise. And I think a lot of them were a little jealous of our cool little icemaker.

This gets a 5 star rating from me. It's built really well and it's very quick at putting out ice. My wife and I are bartenders and have get togethers with friends at least once a week. We make so many cocktails that the refrigerator ice maker couldn't keep up with us. Rather than buy bags of ice, or bag the ice during the week from the fridge to save for "cocktail nights" I looked into getting something else that made ice without the pain of freezing ice cubes in trays (I hate to be lazy, but I wasn't going to do that every week). For those confused about how this thing works, it's pretty basic and any bad review about having to do this or that to keep the machine making ice should be ignored. It has a holding area for water. Keep that filled. We have a blender next to this thing and we just fill the blender basket with water and dump it in the ice maker (takes two fills and about 20 seconds to do). You're all set for quite a bit of ice after that. In about 15 minutes you'll have your first dump of ice cubes. The tray that holds the ice cubes inside of the machine has slits on the bottom so when the ice in the machine melts, it goes right back into the process of making more ice. We always use the large cube setting and the ice melts nicely with the drinks. I'm not a huge fan of "red", but I don't really care since this icemaker does its job very well. We have it sitting on the kitchen counter and the window on the top of the door is kind of pointless, but who cares... if you had it sitting lower it may be really useful to someone. There is very little effort to keep the icemaker focused on its job... making ice. The lights on the front do exactly what they're supposed to. Green means on and the size of cube choice. Red means either "I'm out of water... fill me", or the bin is full of ice. There is a big metal sensor on the inside right of the machine. If you want an insane amount of ice, just do this trick... If an ice cube comes in contact with this sensor, just take the little scoop it comes with and move some of the ice away from it. It'll pump out a ton of more ice. If the sensor didn't exist then this machine would keep making ice until it ran out of water. The only thing I noticed is that if you let it run out of water, and then fill it, it may not continue to make ice. Just press the power button and wait like 10 seconds. The machine will turn off and then the pump releases the water back into the holding tank. Turn it back on and you'll hear the pump fire back up and it will begin the icemaking process all over again. I love it, and we have used it EVERY day since it arrived. One thing to note is that it does not have a freezing/refrigeration type of cooling to keep the ice frozen. It will and does melt back into the icemaking process. We don't really care because it's in a constant rotation of making ice and don't consider it any kind of deal breaker. It would greatly increase the cost, I'm sure. Along with the size and probably the electricity it would use. I could definitely see this as an RV must have, or even on a boat. Bartender tested and approved.

After less than two years, the dual MR16 lights stopped working. I sent an email to tech support at the company, and they advised I bypass the 110V-12V transformer, and install GU10 bulbs instead (running the lights at 110V instead of 12V). They even sent me pictures showing what needed to be done, and offered to sell me their very own $50 kit, which made it all plug and play (and convenient). Before ordering anything, I looked over the unit a bit more. No power in or out of the 12V transformer. I looked over the circuit board, and found a blown 5x20 glass fuse hidden on the main circuit board. I had to pull a wire off the board to gain access, which was secured with a crimped-on female push-on terminal. When I tried pulling the terminal off the board, the entire male end that was soldered to the board pulled out along with it! I pushed it back in enough to make contact, but this connection is not solid, and cannot be trusted. Moving on, I replaced the fuse, and there is power into the transformer now, but nothing out. Obviously a blown transformer, but still wondering why the fuse blew. Having much DIY electrical experience with homes, boats, and cars, I knew I could easily re-wire these lights without buying a silly $50.00 kit. It's a two hot and neutral wires split to two light bulbs, not a NASA space shuttle for God's sake. After the re-wire, the lights work, but do not turn off. They are always on regardless of button position. Now the company is telling me I need a new circuit board (conveniently, again a $50 cost), and apparently they claim their units do not have a fuse on the board at all (even after I sent them pictures of mine). They also recommended I solder the male terminal that pulled out back to the board. They also had no explanation as to how the "mystery fuse" and board blew, and just blamed me for rewiring the lights without using their kit (typical). I'm guessing when the transformer shorted, the fuse did not blow fast enough to protect the board from damage. They refuse to acknowledge that, and will not cover any parts under good will, and will not even discount anything. They seem to believe 2-years of use is a long time. Also, to make matters worse, because I had the grills off, my wife decides to wash them in the dishwasher, since the RangeHoodsInc website says they are dishwasher safe. They came out looking horrendous! They are severely discolored, with white powdery spots and dark blotches and a very uneven tone all around. They blamed this on phosphate-free dishwasher soap! I clean a lot of metal in my dishwasher and have NEVER seen this before. And these are $60 to replace! No where on their website does it state to use a certain type of soap in the dishwasher. On the range hood product page, it says they are dishwasher safe not once, but TWICE! What a great way to treat a customer, especially for a 5-year young company, and a 2-year old $500 product! Anyway, just wanted to share my experience to those shopping for a new range hood. I found very little on this company before I ordered it, and still find very little. Go for something better quality, and with real customer support.

I purchased this from Amazon and was delivered on time without any problem. It took me about 2 hours to install with my wife's help. I could not remove my range so installing is a little bit awkward as I have to lean to the range trying to push the hood up and it's heavy. I concur with other review that there is damper for the 7" round duct, but only for 3 1/4" x 10" duct. But since I only have ductless option, so the damper is extra. Compare to my old range hood, this is very quiet. The old one was so noisy that my wife didn't turn it on because we can not communicate without yelling at each other. With the new Broan, noise for level 1 is hardly noticeable. The lights are beautiful. Frankly, I should have replaced it few years ago. The fan is on the left hand side. When I place a piece of 8 x 11 inch paper, it is only sucked up on the left area where the fan is located. I use duct tape to cover places that are intended for ducts. I follow the instruction from 1 - 5 then skip to 15. So far, it works perfectly. I also order charcoal filter from Amazon to filter odor from cooking. There is one step that applies for ductless installation, that is to remove the blower wheel and insert the retainer ring to steer air directly to the air flow through the non-ducted slots. Do not use LED lights, the lights always flash even when I turn them off. I read on Amazon review and saw that someone using LED lights. It may works on different model, but not with this model (QS230SS). It works perfectly with Halogen lights. Cons: - There is only one blower which is on the left hand side, so the it draws air better on that side. - The instruction shows to remove Teflon-coated bottom cover, but it never mentions to put it back on. - The edges are very sharp and easy to cut to my fingers. - Electrical Cable Clamp is not provided, cost me a trip to Lowes. - The filters do not cover 100%. - My old power cable is located on the left but this range hood has the knock-out on the right. Lucky, I found the way to run the cable to the right. - Smoke from front stoves will not likely be sucked through the filters. - It would be nice if they include a piece of carton paper to mark for screw locations as I didn't want to cut its box because I may have to return it. First, I wanted to fit it then drilled the screws in, but it didn't work for the left side which was occupied by the blower. Then I measured the left side, drill the screws, put the range hood in place with two screws on the left then work on the right. it became much easier that way. After the done tightening screws on the right hand side, I went back to tighten up the screws on the left hand side with long screwdriver. So far, it meets our expectation. Now, my wife doesn't have to turn off the range hood each time she answers a phone call. Level 1 is quiet, but it is not very effective. Level 2 is practical, and the noise is still so good compared to our previous one. The installation was relatively easy and two hour was well spent. We should have done it a long time ago.

We had our contractor install this hood a couple of years ago when we remodeled our kitchen in 2011. We wanted something reasonably attractive, that didn't call attention to itself, that fit in our kitchen. On aesthetics, this hood was fine. Not an award winner, certainly, but quite acceptable and better tha most every other choice in its price category. We had installed a more expensive brand, imported, in another house, that we liked a lot, and in retrospect,we wish we had paid the extra amount to duplicate that earlier hood in this house, as this Broan has been a pain to live with. Two major functional problems with the design make it a hood that I would avoid. 1. It has some kind of sensor (heat? steam?) that automatically turns it on, at its special super-high and thus super-noisy speed, when you do something like boil pasta. Not immediately, but only after your pot has been boiling a bit, about the time the pasta is done and you're getting ready to sit down to dinner. Once it goes on this way, it cannot be turned off--there is no switch to turn it off. We couldn't believe this, assumed there must be a switch we couldn't find that was too obvious to mention in the manual, which didn't mention any, and so we finally called the local dealer for help. He confirmed there was no way to turn off this super loud fan once it turned on. That meant that every time we made pasta, we had to eat dinner to the accompaniment of a jet engine sound at our kitchen table. I finally installed my own switch in the electric line that feeds the hood, which is obviously hard wired and does not normally have a switch. Not something you would expect to have to do. 2. After about a year or so, we had to replace the light bulbs. That's perfectly reasonable. But the problem is that the normal pressure one must apply when screwing a bulb into the socket easily knocks the socket off its footing inside the hood. The bulbs then flop around and frequently the lights don't work. I had to take the hood apart to fix this (and that was feasible only because I had previously installed the switch, see number 1, and so could turn off all power going into the hood). Once apart, the problem was obvious: the sockets are themselves connected to the internal structure via a couple of flimsy clips that are clearly inadequate. You push on the bulb as you screw it in, and you knock the socket out of its footing inside the hood. Both these design flaws are so obvious it's hard to imagine how any competent designer could have produced this product. I would stay away from this. UPDATE: Just visited a friend who has the same hood--and who experienced precisely the same problem that we had with the bulb socket on the right side coming off. UPDATE 2 (April 2014): Now both bulb sockets, right and left, come off, and somehow this happens over time in normal use, not just if you are replacing the bulb. Each time this happens, I have to spend a tedious and unpleasant half hour taking the hood apart (after cutting off electricity to it) to put the sockets back in place. I would not trust any positive review of this hood unless it is from someone who has owned it a couple of years--long enough to have had this flaw appear.

We actually bought this Bosch dishwasher model SHE45M06UC at Lowes with a 10% discount for a total of about $635 in January 2008. It is superb! We originally were looking at the Kenmore and Whirpool lines in the $500 range. But after examining the Bosch we went ahead and spent another $135 to get it. I think we could easily have been happy with the kenmore or Whirlpool models, but we are glad we bought the Bosch SHE45 instead. We are very pleased with it even at the premium price. Significant features: - All stainless steel interior and nylon coated racks (not likely to wear through and rust) - Opti-Clean dirt sensor to automatically adjust cleaning time - Regular, pot scrubber and half wash - Time delay - 51 db (super quiet) - Qualifies for an Oregon State engery savings tax credit - No heater coils exposed so you can place plastic items on lower rack PROS: Every Bosch is much quieter that any most other brand because it does not have a food grinder built in. It just uses a stainless steel mesh screen which is easy to empty and only needs to be emptied every month or so. We scape and quickly rinse our dishes before putting them in the dishwasher anyway, so a food grinder seemed superfluous. Fewer moving parts also means fewer things to break or wear out. Another feature we like is the stainless steel tub/liner which is heavier gauge than the similar Kenmore. Granted, our old Kenmore never wore out its plastic liner, but the Bosch interior is NICE. This model is not only quieter than even most Bosch models (you can barely hear it and is much quieter than our microwave across the kitchen), it also uses about half the energy per year as the cheaper SHE43 model. It is fantastic to be able to put large plastic items (mixing bwls, colander, etc.) on the lower rack. This is because most washers have a heating element exposed in the bottom of the interior and will melt plastic items to close to it. the bosh uses an enclosed heater that has the water forced through it making every part of the interior the same temperature as the water. Dishes come out VERY clean. Only uses one tablespoon of detergent for our Pacific Northwest soft water. Very easy to raise and lower the top rack. CONS: Drying of items takes longer as the heating element is not exposed in the interior. This is not a problem for just my wife and I and occasional family get togethers. We typically only wash a load ever 1-2 days. But if you frequently needed to do back-to-back loads for a large family or groups, then the Bosch line may not be the best for you. The racks seem not to hold our particular type of dishes as efficiently as I expected. Again, for just the two of us now it is no problem. I think the Kenmore/whirlpool may have a better rack design. Installation requires very specific routing of the power and water lines along the floor. This is because it fits so close to the floor that it has channels molded into the bottom to allow the passage of these two lines. However, with no experience I was able to do this by making sure I had long enough lines to get them routed through while the dishwaser was just in front of its cubbyhole and fully exposed. Other guys I talked to suggested taping the lines to the floor at the distances specified in the instructions.

On the upside, this washer fits in tight spaces, provides lots of wash cycle flexibility, and, in my experience, isn't too noisy. But we've had two of them, and I just can't recommend it to anyone. First, it gets smelly. Soap gunk builds up inside the drum, which you need to wipe out as best you can every once in a while. Our clothes don't get smelly (as far as I can tell) or stained, but it's kind of gross. Using the right detergent helps, and you also need to remember to leave it open to dry out when you're not using it. But this is just the start of your headaches with this unit... Second, it's too easy for coins, paper clips, etc. to get into the drain pump because there isn't anything, like a filter, that prevents them from doing so. If you forget to take all of the pennies out of your pockets (which will happen eventually), it's likely that one will get behind the drum and into the drain pump, at which point you'll hear a horrific grinding sound when the washer drains. In the best case scenario, you'll stop the washer in time and will be able to remove the coins from the pump. (It's relatively easy to do - search online for "Maytag MAH2400 coins in drain pump" or something like that to find out how - although it requires going through the bottom of the machine to disconnect and remove the drain pump. Voila! You'll find the culprit, which is fulfilling in a perverse kind of way.) In the worst case scenario, your drain pump will get shredded, and you'll have to replace it (approx. $100 I think). Third, you'll likely face a variety of other problems. Some reviewers here have had problems with the door or with leaking water. We haven't had either of those problems, but our first unit crapped out when the drum essentially broke so that it couldn't hold the belt. After over a month of waiting for the Maytag repairman to get a new drum in stock with repeated assurances that "we'll have it soon!" (they eventually concluded that they wouldn't - their customer service isn't very good), we ended up getting a new one (did so rather than getting a different washer because we also have the Maytag drier that sits on top of the washer). Now, after about 18 months, our new one won't spin either. We're getting the dreaded 3E error code (search for it online) which indicates that something is wrong with the motor or control board. I'm going to spend a few days trying to figure out what's wrong (and there's lots of online info about how to fix the many problems with this unit), but as our laundry builds up, I'm just not sure what I'll do. Pay a few hundred dollars to a repairman who may not be able to fix it anyway? Buy another one? (Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice.... well, we had reasons for getting our current one. But fool me three times?!?!?) Or just switch to a whole different washer set-up? If this is the type of excitement associated with your washer that you want in your life, then by all means, consider this washer. Same applies if you like being a handyman and want a wide variety of problems to diagnose and fix in your appliances (especially if you're not careful about cleaning out your pockets). But if you're like me, and you just want a washer that works - for an extended period of time - then avoid this model like the plague. (A last point is that you can find lots of reviews for this model elsewhere online, and I have yet to find a set of generally positive reviews for it.)

Many complain about long drying time and lack of heat with this Haier Dryer. After studying the design a bit and tinkering with it's workings, I found the answer, and it relates to the bad design of the dryer: poor placement of the heater element. And now for the explanation: The Physics: This dryer has a PTC heater element, which means that there is no thermostat in the dryer - the element itself regulates the heat output based on it's own internal temperature. If air flows across the element and is thus cooled, it's resistance drops, more current flows and the element outputs more heat energy. If no air flows across the element, the heater will heat up internally, it's resistance increases until little or no current flows, and will output little or no heat energy (the element itself will be hot, but will consume little current and output little energy). To watch this phenomenon, plug the empty dryer into a watt meter and turn the dryer on high. Note the watts consumed - around 1000. Now open the door and stick a pen in the door switch and again turn the dryer on high - it will quickly drop from 1000 watts to around 300. This is because no air is moving across the element (it is flowing through the open door) and the heater regulates itself to produce the same internal temperature, but with little energy consumption and output. The Bad Design: The drum spins in a clockwise rotation. The heater is placed at the 8 o'clock position. When the dryer is empty, air is able to move freely across the element, through the inside of the drum, and out the exhaust. If the dryer is lightly filled with clothes, the clothing is rotated up past the element, slightly blocking the air moving across it and reducing it's heat output. If the dryer is heavily loaded, the rotating clothing will be constantly blocking the heater's airflow and you will wind up with very little heat and 4 hour dry times. If the heater had been placed at the 2 o'clock position, the rotating clothing would "tumble down" by the 12 o'clock position and leave the heater's air space to be free of obstruction. This problem is compounded by: (a) A faulty door seal - air leaks in through the door opening, and further reduces the air entering through the heater's air port. (b) a weak exhaust fan, unable to move much air. The Solution: There is no real solution to this design but it can be mitigated in a few ways: 1. Do not load the dryer more than half full. (the manual says 2/3 full, but I disagree) 2. Make sure your vent is always clear and the lint trap cleaned - this helps airflow. 3. Glue down a bead of silicon caulk around the outer edge of the door to help seal it. (you'll need to remove the door to do this properly) 4. Install a baffle inside the dryer to guide clothes away from the element as they spin past it. (put your DIY cap on) 5. Cut a notch in the door and install a fan to push air through the heater. (do this at your own risk) 6. Modify the exhaust fan belt / pulley to cause the fan to spin faster (do this at your own risk) Conclusion: I think the design of this dryer has a fatal flaw which causes it's normal operation to be severely restricted. Consumers should not need to become engineers in order to use a simple and standard household appliance. UPDATE: I ended up adding a fan booster to the exhaust vent, which greatly increases airflow, and shortens full load drying times to a more reasonable 1 1/2 - 2 hours (vs. 3-4 hours).

We installed this range when we remodeled our kitchen 2 1/2 years ago and have used it extensively since then, and have come to love it. Here is what we've learned about it: You better have a GOOD technician to set it up properly and CAREFULLY adjust everything so that all the burners work correctly. BUT once set correctly, all burners have kept their adjustments and we've had no problems. We have the model with gas burners on top, gas main oven and electric bottom oven. There is some kind of a vent fan that comes on in the oven at around 375 degrees, or above, and stays on until the oven cools back down, and it blows hot air out the slots at the BACK of the top. This hot air is hot enough that it cracked the grout between the metallic ceramic tiles of our backsplash and we had to replace the grout with colored silicone. But the original grout job wasn't done right, and the silicone looks better anyway, soooo, no problem. However, my wife used to be annoyed by the noise of the fan, but she's gotten used to it. It isn't loud enough that it ever bothered me, but it is noticeable. We've seen in some reviews where folks complained about the noise of the fan when cooking in convection mode. The convection fan is much quieter than the vent fan mentioned in the previous paragraph. In fact, it's almost inaudible, BUT we don't use the convection mode when baking above 375 degrees, so I don't know if the convection fan gets louder above 375. BTW, the Convection Roast with Probe is a fantastic way of cooking meats. It has always turned out perfect, without fail, but we've been careful to get the probe properly inserted into the meat. We've seen complaints in reviews about the front knobs and panel getting hot while using the oven. We've NOT had that problem at all, ever. I believe there must be a setup problem with the ranges that are having that problem. I also wonder if that's a problem with the electric main ovens and not the gas ovens. The bottom oven has a 120 volt element in it rather than the 240 volt elements that normal electric ovens have, but it still cooks perfectly, HOWEVER, you have to allow for a little extra time for pre-heat, but it's not a huge amount of extra time since the bottom oven is not as large as the top one. When you go to cook pancakes on the griddle, because of the mass of the griddle, you have to allow it plenty of time to get good and hot. I drop a couple droplets of water on it and don't put the batter on it until the droplets sizzle good. You have to keep the burner wide open on high the entire time you're using the griddle to cook effectively. But it DOES cook well, once it's hot and kept hot. We really like the heat ranges of the burners. The power burners heat and bring things to a boil quickly, but turn down to simmer very nicely. The simmer burner on the back right is terrific for warming and slow cooking. All in all, we love this range. The owner's manual could be more clearly written, but the info in it is correct, unlike the one for the last gas range we owned before this one. We highly recommend this range and would buy it again.

When I was fighting a humidity issue in my workshop, I realized I couldn't solve it without monitoring results - and picked up a&nbsp;<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/SensorPush-Wireless-Hygrometer-with-Alerts/dp/B01AEQ9X9I/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">SensorPush Wireless Hygrometer with Alerts</a>&nbsp;for that purpose. It quickly became apparent that, although the SensorPush is awesome, I wanted to be able to see the humidity at a glance when I'm out there - so I also picked up a&nbsp;<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/ThermoPro-TP55-Digital-Hygrometer/dp/B06XTPTG1J/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">ThermoPro TP55 Digital Hygrometer</a>&nbsp;that I could just stick to my gun safe using magnets. If I hadn't been using the SensorPush, I probably would have been happy with the ThermoPro - but I did have a couple of issues with it: 1) The humidity level didn't match the levels from the SensorPush - which was driving me nuts. 2) Even when the SensorPush reported wide swings in relative humidity, the ThermoPro seemed to stay stuck. It was always reporting 48-52%, even though the SensorPush reported a far larger range. After a couple of weeks, I came back to Amazon and picked up the AcuRite 01080 Hygrometer - which turned out to be an excellent decision. 1) The readings on the AcuRite are FAR faster, so it reports the same swings as the SensorPush. 2) The AcuRite supports calibration (which I did using a&nbsp;<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/Boveda-One-Step-Calibration-Kit/dp/B000A3UBLA/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">Boveda One-Step Calibration Kit</a>). It's a little hard to calibrate the Acurite inside the Boveda bag; but, only took a few minutes using the button map from the instruction pages. (The problem is you can't see the buttons - you have to feel for them.) It's interesting that the AcuRite was off by almost 5% out of the box - but now it matches the SensorPush (which is also calibrated) perfectly. After reading reviews, I almost didn't buy the AcuRite because of complaints about the display contrast and size. Personally, I don't see the issues at all - it seems plenty big for my purposes; and, although the contrast definitely isn't as good as the sticker that comes on it - it isn't bad either. The contrast is pretty much comparable to any other digital display. If you're comparing the AcuRite vs the ThermoPro, the ThermoPro has an easy-to use touchscreen and backlighting, while the AcuRite seems to focus more on being a good hygrometer. If you're going to be constantly switching back and forth between Celsius and Fahrenheit, or want a backlight, then consider the ThermoPro - otherwise just grab the AcuRite, it really is an excellent unit. [*** Update 12/12/2017 ***] This has worked so well that I ended up getting another one to track the humidity by my main gun safe. After letting it settle for about 8 hours and calibrating it - it works just as well as the first and tracks the other sensors perfectly.

I have been using my washer for almost 7 months. This is the precise model that I have, except mine is black. I have not had the problems others seem to have. It has only had an unbalanced load (UL) three times in that period, and each time, adjusting the clothes solved the problem. Below is the review I originally wrote for the machine, updated by these comments. It is still relevant in my case. I will agree unconditionally that Whirlpool's customer service is CRAPPY. I tried contacting them several times (email and phone) for a part that I couldn't find for the matching dryer (to convert it from natural gas to LP gas) and NEVER got a response. ************************ November 10, 2006 This little wonder is as wonderful as Whirlpool ("WP") keeps insisting. Now let me first say that every washing machine I have ever owned has been a WP - so there is some loyalty there. But bias aside, this machine delivers. The 'space age' console that lit up like a Christmas tree was impressive enough, but WP added ease of operation. Use the pre-set wash cycles (turn the knob) or modify each to your liking (press the up and down buttons at each selection) - poetry in motion. One CAVEAT - I have not yet tried to programme a delayed wash, so I don't know how easy that is. The instructions in the manual seemed simple enough though. LARGE TUB: The stainless steel tub is deceptively large. When I first looked in I noted the absence of the agitator but still I thought it wasn't as large as had been advertised. Then I put in what was in my old machine a "medium" load. My medium load became an extra small. What joy! WATER SAVING: They do not lie! No more clothes swimming (pun) in water. This washer 'measures/weighs' the clothing (ain't technology wonderful?) and adds just enough water to the clothes to clean them. I was counting the savings (and apparently saving a tree in the Amazon) as I sat in fascination and watched my clothes wash. (Love the see through lid by the way). CLEANING RESULTS: Clean the clothes it did. My whites were clean and fresh. LOTS OF CYCLES: To suit every need. The BULKY ITEMS cycle is a gem. LID LOCK: The lid locks as soon as you press the Start button. You can pause during any cycle by pressing the Pause/Cancel button once (twice will cancel the wash), then pressing Start to continue. FEATURES: Too many to adequately expound on here. I love the THREE DISPENSERS - detergent (only high efficiency liquid or powder), liquid bleach and fabric softener. The end-of-cycle ALERT is indispensable and can be turned off, soft or loud. The machine is QUIET. Capital QUIET. Amazingly QUIET! (which is why you really need the end-of-cycle alert). The DRAIN AND SPIN cycle is great for those times when you start a wash and can't finish. The CLEAN MACHINE cycle - also a keeper. The machine has a pleasing design and despite greater capacity and features, seems to take up less floor space than my older model washer. I personally suggest using a surge suppressor with this washer simply because so many of the features are computerised and it is a large investment (would be a shame to watch it go down in flames). I haven't had it long enough to comment on energy savings, but for every other reason cited above (and more), I fully recommend this washer.

<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/Whirlpool-Duet-Series-WFW9400SW-27-Duet-Front-Load-Washer-with-4-0-cu-ft-Capacity-14-Wash-Cycles-1200-RPM-Speed-White/dp/B000N5KPAC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">Whirlpool Duet Series WFW9400SW 27" Duet Front-Load Washer with 4.0 cu. ft. Capacity, 14 Wash Cycles & 1200 RPM Speed: White</a> I have had my new Whirlpool Duet pair for about 1 1/2 weeks now. I am completely in love. I had a Kenmore top load washer and dryer for almost 10 years. I was happy with how my clothes came out and I never really understood when people had complaints about their washers not cleaning clothes well or wearing out their clothes so quickly. I now understand. I washed a load of whites in the front loader. Not doing anything different than what the washer's manual suggests doing (I also followed manufacturer's suggestion on old machine) and I can not believe the difference. I took a white sock from the load out of the new machine and one out of my drawer that had been washed using the old machine. My 12 yr old, 9 yr old, and 4 yr old all noticed the difference without me telling them which came from the new machine. My husband even noticed. They all thought that the old machine sock was actually dirty. Needless to say, I have been slowly rewashing all of the clothes that supposedly were already clean from my old machine. Now, I read a lot of reviews about the Whirlpool front loads. Some were very discouraging. I was a little nervous making the purchase with some of the information that is out there, however, I am glad to report I have not had any of the issues. One thing that I did read about in the manual is that you have to use HE laundry detergent or your front load machine will suds too much. This will lead to mildew smell or mold inside the drum. Our sales guy told us it would be the equivalent to putting hand dish soap in your dishwasher. The manual also says that you need to leave the door open after you complete laundry so that the washer drum can fully dry. The reason is that the front loads have an airtight seal that will not let air in to dry, thus causing mildew and mold. There were also complaints about the vibration when the unit is spinning. We had the machine installed by the store we bought the units from. Unfortunately, when my husband came home and I told him that they did not seem as sturdy as I would like, he found that they did not tighten the locking bolts after they "leveled" it. However, it was not leveled properly either. Becuase of this, as the machine spun the clothes, it wiggled even more unlevel which made a horrible vibration noise. Now that my husband leveled it and locked the locking bolts, we have had no problems. I think the best part of the machine is that it sprays water into the soap, softner, bleach trays to completely get out the soap. It makes it nice not having to clean out the tray each time so build up doesn't happen! I feel that if anyone gets the unit you will not regret it! Good luck shopping!

I am happy for those of you who have not had problems w/this machine! HOWEVER, you seem to be much fewer than those of us who have had issues w/this machine... 2 weeks after we purchased this machine things started to go bad, but I was in denial because I wanted to LOVE this machine so desperately! It was SUPPOSED to be our dream machine, but turned out to be our laundry nightmare!!! It all started w/an LD error... okay, that means "long drain" check for a kink in the hose, not enough of the drain hose in the wall drain, blah, blah, blah... a repair man came here & told me it is because of too much soap & taking too long to drain. I had done my research BEFORE we bought this machine because I was so determined to make it work, that I wanted to make sure I used it right. Showed the repairman my HE bottle of WHIRLPOOL endorsed detergent, & told him I was using about 2 tsp (if that) of soap for a FULL load... told him I kept checking to see how many suds there were to make sure there was enough, but not too much soap. He told me to add a bucket of water to the machine if the LD error came up again & to use LESS soap... I smiled & said OKAY, but was thinking that he STILL thinks I am using too much soap... whatever!!! NOT the case... I know to check the rinse cycle to check for any soap residue & there was NONE. I also asked him if there was too much detergent, then WHY DIDN'T I get the sud error message, hmmm?!?!? Of course, the LD error came up again & again & again. Adding water did nothing, nor did cancelling the load & starting over... I had to unplug it & let it sit EMPTY overnight before it would work again. Not very productive, let me tell you! I humored the repairman & even tried less detergent AND same thing!!! had I used any less detergent, I would have been washing my clothes w/water!!!! Then the whole ridiculous F1 error came up... UGGHHH!!! WHAT IS THAT??? According to Whirlpool it is an "electrical" issue... the repairmen came here 4 MORE times & guess what, IT STILL DOES NOT WORK!!!! I have had a new control board (brain), things taken apart & cleaned, etc. GIVE ME A BREAK!!!! I am seriously FED UP, & so is my hubby. He is determined he is going to peorsonally take this machine back to Sears & tell them to eat their return policy... I hope it works... not sure what machine to get next, assuming Sears takes this hunk of junk back?!?!? I read Fisher & Paykel is great & one of the 4 different repair guys that came here said that F&P has the bugs worked out of their products since they have been around so long... BUT I read some bad reviews on-line & am leery now... I need a machine w/out an agitator (we have a history of our clothes being ripped apart by our washer w/an agitator, so I am not even willing to risk it again.... also a Whirlpool... hmmm?!?!? We went w/WP again though because we figured that w/out an agitator we would be fine... yeah, nice try.). Anyway, if you try a Cabrio I hope it works... chances are it won't, but I also like to try things for myself sometimes ;0). Does anybody else have the F1 error??? Is that the updated code for the F51 error since my LCD screen can't even display 3 numbers and/or letters?!?!?

I bought this LintEater kit plus a competitor's kit (everbilt) to use as an extension if needed, since my duct is 24` long and the other kit was the same price as the extension. I ended up not using the other kit at all and will be keeping this one as this kit is superior in every way: * the rods are much more flexible, yet just as strong than the other kit. * the brush on this kit is better designed in my opinion. It has tufts of bristles arranged in a spiral pattern, with plenty of space for chunks of lint to blow past the brush. The other kits' brushes are arranged in rows, but with even gaps between bristles, so I believe they are more likely to shovel lint in front of the brush if you are pushing the brush upwind. For light lint loads the other brush may be better for "polishing" your ducts, but if the job gets tough, the LintEater should be better. * My favorite accessory: the vacuum hose adapter. I duct taped a vacuum hose to my leaf blower, attached the other end of vacuum hose to this adapter, threaded the rod (with brush attached) through the small port provided in the adapter, then plugged the adapter into my vent after feeding the brush into the vent. I was then able to brush the first 12' of duct from inside the house, with air from the leaf blower pushing the lint out of the other end of the vent. Then I removed the brush, plugged the small port with a provided plug, and plugged the adapter back in the vent. From the outside of the house I was able to clean the outside 12' of duct, with lint blowing out the vent towards me. A little messy but not bad. If I used a 12' extension, I could have done the whole job from the inside, but this worked almost as well. * there are two small set-screws plus an allen wrench provided; one is used to lock the brush in place on the rod to avoid a disaster in case you accidentally spin the rod counter-clockwise. * there is a metal clog ripper that I didn't need to use, in case you have a nasty clog of lint to remove that is too tough to dig through with the brush. * there a smaller diameter brush that looks useful for brushing out ducting within the dryer. This brush attaches to the same rods. * I have no idea what the "french fry cutter" is for unless it is to collect all the big pieces of lint at the outlet so you can watch them all come out at once? Not sure why you would want to do that. Or maybe it helps prevent you from running your brush into your dryer if you are running your dryer to blow lint outside and brushing from the outside in. I should have read the directions. I did use duct tape on each of the joints as I fed the brush in, as it doesn't take much counter-clockwise torque to start unscrewing things. I would not run this counter-clockwise on purpose; it won't take long for the duct tape to come loose and then you will have fun getting everything out of the duct. I found that these rods could screw into the everbilt rods, but the everbilt rods could not screw into these rods. If I remember right, the everbilt rods would not fit the LintEater brush, so I would have had to use the everbilt brush if I wanted to combine the two kits to get a 24' length. I decided it wasn't worth it. If I really wanted 24', I would buy the LintEater extension (I am returning the everbilt kit to HD). When I bought it, this kit was the same price as the other kits, but it is definitely worth paying more.

This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System Weve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall. We knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer. I had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is! I did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime! Like with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works. The pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. Disconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. - CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube! - My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race. - I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw. - As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster. - The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue. NOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside. - INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint. - OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!

IMPORTANT - Follow the directions and remember... CLOCKWISE CLOCKWISE CLOCKWISE! You'll understand when you see it. Our home is 20 years old, and we've lived in it for 16 of those 20 years. We have never cleaned the dryer ducts, and we're certain the previous owners would've had no need to do so. Our washer went out a week ago and so we decided to replace the dryer as well. The dryer had never been moved in 16 years and when I went to unhook it, I was amazed that the connecting pipe was almost completely clogged with lint! We clean our dryer lint collector every time we use it, so it got me to thinking - If there's this much lint in the connecting pipe..... how much lint is in the main pipe that I can't see????? So.... in anticipation of getting a new washer and dryer set, I decided to look into ways of checking into this, and came across this product. Our vent pipe is 30 feet long, and a 90 degree bend 2/3 the way down! Well... that's where this AWESOME TOOL comes in! I was a bit nervous about it until I got it. This thing is made very well, and I had no issues with it at all. I followed the directions and MADE SURE that I - 1. Duct taped the joints 2. Made sure my drill was set to CLOCKWISE 3. Went slow and steady and didn't force anything. The directions are VERY important cause if you do not follow them, you could find yourself in trouble. I recommend that you have a 10 gallon shop vac with the 2" hose to help you with this job! The vac will help in declogging the pipe by sucking the lint as you loosen it. I could NOT BELIEVE how much lint came out of our pipes! I had to unclog the vac hose like 4 times because there was so much volume! Amazing to think that there was so much lint that it clogged up my 10 gallon pro shop vac 4 times!!! The MAIN THING is to GO SLOW! There's no need to put your drill on high. If you don't have a variable speed drill - I recommend you get one. You may get yourself into trouble if your drill only runs in super fast mode because should you run into a snag, you could break the rods inside your duct! Can you imagine that? Therefore... have the right tools for the job, and follow the directions to the letter, cause you don't want that to happen. Due to our 30 foot run, I bought 2 kits rather than buy the extention set because to me, for a few bucks more, why not have extra brushes etc too? The tool assembles with ease and I LOVED the shop vac attachment tool it came with. It made this job sooooooo much easier. Bottom Line - I love this tool! It did exactly what I wanted it to do, and it did it with ease, and sure beat paying someone to do it. I was completely done in about 1/2 hr, for a 30 foot pipe, and I have more airflow from our dryer than ever before! Take a look at some of the pics some people have posted with their lint because this is exactly what I experienced. I removed approx. 2 pounds of lint which is a considerable amount when you think about it. Our pipes are clean, and I can relax in the knowledge that we've increased the life of our new dryer exponentially, and removed the risk for a duct fire. Totally worth every cent to buy this tool in my book ;)

Outstanding, well made product. I have a 15 ft. dryer exhaust duct made of heavy foil "accordian". It's a straight run from the dryer wall to the outside of the house at near ground level except for a 90 deg "S" bend where the duct enters the wall and continues below the floor next to the basement ceiling Since the total length of the rods is 12 feet, I had to clean the duct from both the outside and inside. After reading all the options in the user manual I concluded that the most efficient cleaning method was the following general procedure. I ran the brush through the duct from the outside (while keeping the dryer connected to the duct) and then turned on the dryer on the unheated air flow setting to blow out the debris through the louvered outside vent that the brush did not extract. Then I disconnected the duct from the dryer to the wall and ran the brush through the duct from the inside...being careful to allow the flexible line to let the brush negotiate the two 90 deg bends. I reconnected the dryer to the duct and again turned it on air flow to blow the debris out the outside louvered vent that the brush didn't remove. DETAILS: When cleaning from the outside, I attached the brush to one 3-ft. rod and attached it to my drill. It's best to have a two speed drill (set at the low speed) or a variable speed drill. The outside vent is plastic with three flexible louvers which are easy to remove. I inserted the brush into the end of the duct, turned it on, slowly worked the brush into the duct the full length of the rod, and slowly withdrew the rotating brush (and watched all the debris being pulled out). I did that three times. I then turned on the dryer (unheated air flow) to "clear" the duct. After that I rotated the brush again into the duct to near the end of the rod, disconnected it from the drill, attached the second rod and repeated the process. I reinserted the brush to near the end of the second rod, disconnected it from the drill, attached the third rod and repeated the process....etc... until I had all four rods (12 ft.) attached. When I finished cleaning from the outside, I cleaned the duct from the inside, but I just needed to use one 3-ft. rod. to ensure the entire 15 ft run was cleaned. Of course, don't forget to clean out the duct that connects to the dryer. I also opened the back of the dryer and cleaned the inside. The debris sitting on the grass below the louvered vent was easily cleaned with a house vac using the suction tool. Be patient, read the instructions and pay close attention to what it says about connecting and securing the rod sections. Also, wear a good quality dust mask and hat. If you have a long duct like mine, don't connect all four rods at once and then try to insert the brush and run the drill from 12 feet away -- it'll be too unwieldy. Simply start with one 3-ft rod and add the additional ones to the rods that are inserted in the duct and protruding from the opening as described above and continue rotating the brush. Push the brush in slowly and let it do the work; don't force it. If you apply a little common sense it's really very simple. But the whole cleaning process will take a long time, especially if you have to also clean from the inside which requires moving the dryer, disconnecting the duct and other contortions...so be patient. It's a well-made, effective tool that really does the job.

This is a great dryer vent pipe cleaning system! Our dryer is in the middle of the second floor of the house, so there's a 24-foot pipe from the wall behind the dryer up into the ceiling and across the attic beams to the outdoor vent. Hasn't been cleaned since buying the house brand new in late 2005! Not being a fan of paying strangers to come into my home, I bought the LintEater 10-piece kit and a 12-foot extension rod pack. The "chore" of cleaning the dryer vent pipe turned out to be a real joy because of this inexpensive and very effective tool! Assembly is simple - screw the brush into the end of one of the flexible rods. A little set screw and allen wrench are provided to ensure the brush stays on. Turn your dryer on to the AIR Dry setting to blow unheated air out the vent pipe. Go outdoors with your cordless drill set to turn forward/clockwise, attach the rod/brush assembly to the drill and rotate the brush/rod while pulling it in and out of the dryer vent pipe. When lint stops blowing out - (You won't believe the clumps and quantity of lint this thing dislodges!) - screw another length of rod onto the end of the first rod, insert its end into the drill, make sure the drill will turn clockwise, and spin the lengthened assembly in and out of the dryer vent. Repeat until all rods have been attached and lint stops blowing from the dryer vent as you pull the spinning brush assembly fully back out of the vent. The ONLY thing one must remember in this extremely easy task is to always run the drill in forward/clockwise rotation because the rods will want to unscrew from one another if the drill is accidentally run in reverse. The instructions do offer the idea of putting duct tape around the rod connections after screwing them together to prevent disconnection inside the dryer vent pipe if you forget to only turn the drill in the clockwise direction. As a do-it-yourself kind of guy, I'm willing to buy a tool if it can give me the ability to do a job myself whenever it's convenient for me rather than having to schedule some stranger to do something for me. Rarely, however, does one find such an inexpensive and thorough tool as this! This $40 kit (including the extra pack of extension rods I needed) made the job of cleaning my dryer vent pipe very satisfying and even fun! It stores easily behind the dryer until the next time I'll need it. (The instructions recommend cleaning the vent pipe every few months.) The whole job only took half an hour from start to finish - including getting the ladder out of the garage and set up. There is simply no reason to pay a contractor to do this easy task nor to forego keeping one's dryer vent clear of accumulated lint and the associated fire hazard that it creates. When ordering, measure how far your dryer is from the outside wall of your house where the dryer air is vented and add the vertical distance from the air outlet on the back of the dryer to the ceiling so that you know how many flexible rods you'll need in order to clean the whole thing from the outside. If disconnecting the dryer from the wall pipe is convenient, one could even clean the pipe from the inside outward or from both ends. My experience with the LintEater is unquestionably rated 5 stars. I would heartily recommend it to a friend. It's inexpensive, easy to assemble and use, fast, does a thorough job, is almost impossible to goof up and small to store for future uses. I will not go 6 years without cleaning my dryer vent again now that I have this kit on hand and will happily take it to friend's houses to share the benefits of a clean dryer vent with them.

I have owned this unit for 1 1/2 years so far, and it has operated very well. It uses about 1/2 kwh per day or 180 to 240 kwh per year depending on the temp in the building. The unit is clean, not too loud and does its job. HOWEVER, after 1 1/2 years the relay starter switch went out. This is caused by arcing from each time it is fired up. When this happened I panicked and thought I would lose all my frozen foods and have to go buy a new freezer, BUT a little homework on youtube and thought came up with a quick solution to the problem. I removed the transfer switch from the compressor which is shown in the picture. Don't forget to unplug the freezer first!! To help you find the switch you have to remove a little cover over it on the left side of the compressor. Don't take off the overload protector that has one black wire going into it that is above the relay and that occupies the top prong of three that come out of the compressor. Make sure you make note of the colors of the wires or take a picture of the wires as they are placed on the relay switch. You don't have to undo the ground wire that looks like it is in the way. It is not. You can just use a flat blade screwdriver to ease off the relay switch. Then use the same screwdriver to nudge the wiring connectors off the pins on the relay switch. You will find a part number on the relay switch. I ordered one on Amazon for $10 that had a number that was pretty close and that a reviewer said he had used on a similar freezer. It worked, but then I saw on a youtube video that there is a little disk inside the relay switch that does the work. I carefully opened up the relay switch and pushed the blade connectors out of it from the back which freed up the little disk. There was scoring on the disk and one of the blades. I scraped and sanded off the black ash and then reinserted the blades into the housing. I used a small screwdriver to slightly bend the contacts where they would make good contact with the disk instead of being loose. Now the critical part is that I removed and LIGHTLY sanded the crud off the disk and reinserted it where it made contact with a part of the disk that still had the contact metal whereas the scored area had none. I think this could be done several times to be able to use the disk again, OR this will buy you time while you wait for a new part. The part I ordered on Amazaon was Ministry of Warehouse QP2-4.7 New 3 Pin Start Device Relay Starter Danby Magic Chef Kenmore Refrigerator aftermarket; PMN4534TG48 3464YHRE323299. This unit I believe is manufactured in Ontario, Canada. Hope this saves you some time and money. I would give the unit 5 stars, but good luck searching for parts, and a repairman would cost a fortune most likely and you can lose food waiting so this is good to know if you don't mind rehabilitating the unit on your own and have 30 minutes to do the job. Of course, it could be some other problem with your unit, but I suspect this is bound to happen to most of them due to the nature of the part.

We installed this range when we remodeled our kitchen 2 1/2 years ago and have used it extensively since then, and have come to love it. Here is what we've learned about it: You better have a GOOD technician to set it up properly and CAREFULLY adjust everything so that all the burners work correctly. BUT once set correctly, all burners have kept their adjustments and we've had no problems. We have the model with gas burners on top, gas main oven and electric bottom oven. There is some kind of a vent fan that comes on in the oven at around 375 degrees, or above, and stays on until the oven cools back down, and it blows hot air out the slots at the BACK of the top. This hot air is hot enough that it cracked the grout between the metallic ceramic tiles of our backsplash and we had to replace the grout with colored silicone. But the original grout job wasn't done right, and the silicone looks better anyway, soooo, no problem. However, my wife used to be annoyed by the noise of the fan, but she's gotten used to it. It isn't loud enough that it ever bothered me, but it is noticeable. We've seen in some reviews where folks complained about the noise of the fan when cooking in convection mode. The convection fan is much quieter than the vent fan mentioned in the previous paragraph. In fact, it's almost inaudible, BUT we don't use the convection mode when baking above 375 degrees, so I don't know if the convection fan gets louder above 375. BTW, the Convection Roast with Probe is a fantastic way of cooking meats. It has always turned out perfect, without fail, but we've been careful to get the probe properly inserted into the meat. We've seen complaints in reviews about the front knobs and panel getting hot while using the oven. We've NOT had that problem at all, ever. I believe there must be a setup problem with the ranges that are having that problem. I also wonder if that's a problem with the electric main ovens and not the gas ovens. The bottom oven has a 120 volt element in it rather than the 240 volt elements that normal electric ovens have, but it still cooks perfectly, HOWEVER, you have to allow for a little extra time for pre-heat, but it's not a huge amount of extra time since the bottom oven is not as large as the top one. When you go to cook pancakes on the griddle, because of the mass of the griddle, you have to allow it plenty of time to get good and hot. I drop a couple droplets of water on it and don't put the batter on it until the droplets sizzle good. You have to keep the burner wide open on high the entire time you're using the griddle to cook effectively. But it DOES cook well, once it's hot and kept hot. We really like the heat ranges of the burners. The power burners heat and bring things to a boil quickly, but turn down to simmer very nicely. The simmer burner on the back right is terrific for warming and slow cooking. All in all, we love this range. The owner's manual could be more clearly written, but the info in it is correct, unlike the one for the last gas range we owned before this one. We highly recommend this range and would buy it again.

When I was fighting a humidity issue in my workshop, I realized I couldn't solve it without monitoring results - and picked up a&nbsp;<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/SensorPush-Wireless-Hygrometer-with-Alerts/dp/B01AEQ9X9I/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">SensorPush Wireless Hygrometer with Alerts</a>&nbsp;for that purpose. It quickly became apparent that, although the SensorPush is awesome, I wanted to be able to see the humidity at a glance when I'm out there - so I also picked up a&nbsp;<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/ThermoPro-TP55-Digital-Hygrometer/dp/B06XTPTG1J/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">ThermoPro TP55 Digital Hygrometer</a>&nbsp;that I could just stick to my gun safe using magnets. If I hadn't been using the SensorPush, I probably would have been happy with the ThermoPro - but I did have a couple of issues with it: 1) The humidity level didn't match the levels from the SensorPush - which was driving me nuts. 2) Even when the SensorPush reported wide swings in relative humidity, the ThermoPro seemed to stay stuck. It was always reporting 48-52%, even though the SensorPush reported a far larger range. After a couple of weeks, I came back to Amazon and picked up the AcuRite 01080 Hygrometer - which turned out to be an excellent decision. 1) The readings on the AcuRite are FAR faster, so it reports the same swings as the SensorPush. 2) The AcuRite supports calibration (which I did using a&nbsp;<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/Boveda-One-Step-Calibration-Kit/dp/B000A3UBLA/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">Boveda One-Step Calibration Kit</a>). It's a little hard to calibrate the Acurite inside the Boveda bag; but, only took a few minutes using the button map from the instruction pages. (The problem is you can't see the buttons - you have to feel for them.) It's interesting that the AcuRite was off by almost 5% out of the box - but now it matches the SensorPush (which is also calibrated) perfectly. After reading reviews, I almost didn't buy the AcuRite because of complaints about the display contrast and size. Personally, I don't see the issues at all - it seems plenty big for my purposes; and, although the contrast definitely isn't as good as the sticker that comes on it - it isn't bad either. The contrast is pretty much comparable to any other digital display. If you're comparing the AcuRite vs the ThermoPro, the ThermoPro has an easy-to use touchscreen and backlighting, while the AcuRite seems to focus more on being a good hygrometer. If you're going to be constantly switching back and forth between Celsius and Fahrenheit, or want a backlight, then consider the ThermoPro - otherwise just grab the AcuRite, it really is an excellent unit. [*** Update 12/12/2017 ***] This has worked so well that I ended up getting another one to track the humidity by my main gun safe. After letting it settle for about 8 hours and calibrating it - it works just as well as the first and tracks the other sensors perfectly.

I have been using my washer for almost 7 months. This is the precise model that I have, except mine is black. I have not had the problems others seem to have. It has only had an unbalanced load (UL) three times in that period, and each time, adjusting the clothes solved the problem. Below is the review I originally wrote for the machine, updated by these comments. It is still relevant in my case. I will agree unconditionally that Whirlpool's customer service is CRAPPY. I tried contacting them several times (email and phone) for a part that I couldn't find for the matching dryer (to convert it from natural gas to LP gas) and NEVER got a response. ************************ November 10, 2006 This little wonder is as wonderful as Whirlpool ("WP") keeps insisting. Now let me first say that every washing machine I have ever owned has been a WP - so there is some loyalty there. But bias aside, this machine delivers. The 'space age' console that lit up like a Christmas tree was impressive enough, but WP added ease of operation. Use the pre-set wash cycles (turn the knob) or modify each to your liking (press the up and down buttons at each selection) - poetry in motion. One CAVEAT - I have not yet tried to programme a delayed wash, so I don't know how easy that is. The instructions in the manual seemed simple enough though. LARGE TUB: The stainless steel tub is deceptively large. When I first looked in I noted the absence of the agitator but still I thought it wasn't as large as had been advertised. Then I put in what was in my old machine a "medium" load. My medium load became an extra small. What joy! WATER SAVING: They do not lie! No more clothes swimming (pun) in water. This washer 'measures/weighs' the clothing (ain't technology wonderful?) and adds just enough water to the clothes to clean them. I was counting the savings (and apparently saving a tree in the Amazon) as I sat in fascination and watched my clothes wash. (Love the see through lid by the way). CLEANING RESULTS: Clean the clothes it did. My whites were clean and fresh. LOTS OF CYCLES: To suit every need. The BULKY ITEMS cycle is a gem. LID LOCK: The lid locks as soon as you press the Start button. You can pause during any cycle by pressing the Pause/Cancel button once (twice will cancel the wash), then pressing Start to continue. FEATURES: Too many to adequately expound on here. I love the THREE DISPENSERS - detergent (only high efficiency liquid or powder), liquid bleach and fabric softener. The end-of-cycle ALERT is indispensable and can be turned off, soft or loud. The machine is QUIET. Capital QUIET. Amazingly QUIET! (which is why you really need the end-of-cycle alert). The DRAIN AND SPIN cycle is great for those times when you start a wash and can't finish. The CLEAN MACHINE cycle - also a keeper. The machine has a pleasing design and despite greater capacity and features, seems to take up less floor space than my older model washer. I personally suggest using a surge suppressor with this washer simply because so many of the features are computerised and it is a large investment (would be a shame to watch it go down in flames). I haven't had it long enough to comment on energy savings, but for every other reason cited above (and more), I fully recommend this washer.

<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/Whirlpool-Duet-Series-WFW9400SW-27-Duet-Front-Load-Washer-with-4-0-cu-ft-Capacity-14-Wash-Cycles-1200-RPM-Speed-White/dp/B000N5KPAC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">Whirlpool Duet Series WFW9400SW 27" Duet Front-Load Washer with 4.0 cu. ft. Capacity, 14 Wash Cycles & 1200 RPM Speed: White</a> I have had my new Whirlpool Duet pair for about 1 1/2 weeks now. I am completely in love. I had a Kenmore top load washer and dryer for almost 10 years. I was happy with how my clothes came out and I never really understood when people had complaints about their washers not cleaning clothes well or wearing out their clothes so quickly. I now understand. I washed a load of whites in the front loader. Not doing anything different than what the washer's manual suggests doing (I also followed manufacturer's suggestion on old machine) and I can not believe the difference. I took a white sock from the load out of the new machine and one out of my drawer that had been washed using the old machine. My 12 yr old, 9 yr old, and 4 yr old all noticed the difference without me telling them which came from the new machine. My husband even noticed. They all thought that the old machine sock was actually dirty. Needless to say, I have been slowly rewashing all of the clothes that supposedly were already clean from my old machine. Now, I read a lot of reviews about the Whirlpool front loads. Some were very discouraging. I was a little nervous making the purchase with some of the information that is out there, however, I am glad to report I have not had any of the issues. One thing that I did read about in the manual is that you have to use HE laundry detergent or your front load machine will suds too much. This will lead to mildew smell or mold inside the drum. Our sales guy told us it would be the equivalent to putting hand dish soap in your dishwasher. The manual also says that you need to leave the door open after you complete laundry so that the washer drum can fully dry. The reason is that the front loads have an airtight seal that will not let air in to dry, thus causing mildew and mold. There were also complaints about the vibration when the unit is spinning. We had the machine installed by the store we bought the units from. Unfortunately, when my husband came home and I told him that they did not seem as sturdy as I would like, he found that they did not tighten the locking bolts after they "leveled" it. However, it was not leveled properly either. Becuase of this, as the machine spun the clothes, it wiggled even more unlevel which made a horrible vibration noise. Now that my husband leveled it and locked the locking bolts, we have had no problems. I think the best part of the machine is that it sprays water into the soap, softner, bleach trays to completely get out the soap. It makes it nice not having to clean out the tray each time so build up doesn't happen! I feel that if anyone gets the unit you will not regret it! Good luck shopping!

I am happy for those of you who have not had problems w/this machine! HOWEVER, you seem to be much fewer than those of us who have had issues w/this machine... 2 weeks after we purchased this machine things started to go bad, but I was in denial because I wanted to LOVE this machine so desperately! It was SUPPOSED to be our dream machine, but turned out to be our laundry nightmare!!! It all started w/an LD error... okay, that means "long drain" check for a kink in the hose, not enough of the drain hose in the wall drain, blah, blah, blah... a repair man came here & told me it is because of too much soap & taking too long to drain. I had done my research BEFORE we bought this machine because I was so determined to make it work, that I wanted to make sure I used it right. Showed the repairman my HE bottle of WHIRLPOOL endorsed detergent, & told him I was using about 2 tsp (if that) of soap for a FULL load... told him I kept checking to see how many suds there were to make sure there was enough, but not too much soap. He told me to add a bucket of water to the machine if the LD error came up again & to use LESS soap... I smiled & said OKAY, but was thinking that he STILL thinks I am using too much soap... whatever!!! NOT the case... I know to check the rinse cycle to check for any soap residue & there was NONE. I also asked him if there was too much detergent, then WHY DIDN'T I get the sud error message, hmmm?!?!? Of course, the LD error came up again & again & again. Adding water did nothing, nor did cancelling the load & starting over... I had to unplug it & let it sit EMPTY overnight before it would work again. Not very productive, let me tell you! I humored the repairman & even tried less detergent AND same thing!!! had I used any less detergent, I would have been washing my clothes w/water!!!! Then the whole ridiculous F1 error came up... UGGHHH!!! WHAT IS THAT??? According to Whirlpool it is an "electrical" issue... the repairmen came here 4 MORE times & guess what, IT STILL DOES NOT WORK!!!! I have had a new control board (brain), things taken apart & cleaned, etc. GIVE ME A BREAK!!!! I am seriously FED UP, & so is my hubby. He is determined he is going to peorsonally take this machine back to Sears & tell them to eat their return policy... I hope it works... not sure what machine to get next, assuming Sears takes this hunk of junk back?!?!? I read Fisher & Paykel is great & one of the 4 different repair guys that came here said that F&P has the bugs worked out of their products since they have been around so long... BUT I read some bad reviews on-line & am leery now... I need a machine w/out an agitator (we have a history of our clothes being ripped apart by our washer w/an agitator, so I am not even willing to risk it again.... also a Whirlpool... hmmm?!?!? We went w/WP again though because we figured that w/out an agitator we would be fine... yeah, nice try.). Anyway, if you try a Cabrio I hope it works... chances are it won't, but I also like to try things for myself sometimes ;0). Does anybody else have the F1 error??? Is that the updated code for the F51 error since my LCD screen can't even display 3 numbers and/or letters?!?!?

I bought this LintEater kit plus a competitor's kit (everbilt) to use as an extension if needed, since my duct is 24` long and the other kit was the same price as the extension. I ended up not using the other kit at all and will be keeping this one as this kit is superior in every way: * the rods are much more flexible, yet just as strong than the other kit. * the brush on this kit is better designed in my opinion. It has tufts of bristles arranged in a spiral pattern, with plenty of space for chunks of lint to blow past the brush. The other kits' brushes are arranged in rows, but with even gaps between bristles, so I believe they are more likely to shovel lint in front of the brush if you are pushing the brush upwind. For light lint loads the other brush may be better for "polishing" your ducts, but if the job gets tough, the LintEater should be better. * My favorite accessory: the vacuum hose adapter. I duct taped a vacuum hose to my leaf blower, attached the other end of vacuum hose to this adapter, threaded the rod (with brush attached) through the small port provided in the adapter, then plugged the adapter into my vent after feeding the brush into the vent. I was then able to brush the first 12' of duct from inside the house, with air from the leaf blower pushing the lint out of the other end of the vent. Then I removed the brush, plugged the small port with a provided plug, and plugged the adapter back in the vent. From the outside of the house I was able to clean the outside 12' of duct, with lint blowing out the vent towards me. A little messy but not bad. If I used a 12' extension, I could have done the whole job from the inside, but this worked almost as well. * there are two small set-screws plus an allen wrench provided; one is used to lock the brush in place on the rod to avoid a disaster in case you accidentally spin the rod counter-clockwise. * there is a metal clog ripper that I didn't need to use, in case you have a nasty clog of lint to remove that is too tough to dig through with the brush. * there a smaller diameter brush that looks useful for brushing out ducting within the dryer. This brush attaches to the same rods. * I have no idea what the "french fry cutter" is for unless it is to collect all the big pieces of lint at the outlet so you can watch them all come out at once? Not sure why you would want to do that. Or maybe it helps prevent you from running your brush into your dryer if you are running your dryer to blow lint outside and brushing from the outside in. I should have read the directions. I did use duct tape on each of the joints as I fed the brush in, as it doesn't take much counter-clockwise torque to start unscrewing things. I would not run this counter-clockwise on purpose; it won't take long for the duct tape to come loose and then you will have fun getting everything out of the duct. I found that these rods could screw into the everbilt rods, but the everbilt rods could not screw into these rods. If I remember right, the everbilt rods would not fit the LintEater brush, so I would have had to use the everbilt brush if I wanted to combine the two kits to get a 24' length. I decided it wasn't worth it. If I really wanted 24', I would buy the LintEater extension (I am returning the everbilt kit to HD). When I bought it, this kit was the same price as the other kits, but it is definitely worth paying more.

This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System Weve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall. We knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer. I had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is! I did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime! Like with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works. The pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. Disconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. - CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube! - My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race. - I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw. - As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster. - The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue. NOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside. - INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint. - OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!

IMPORTANT - Follow the directions and remember... CLOCKWISE CLOCKWISE CLOCKWISE! You'll understand when you see it. Our home is 20 years old, and we've lived in it for 16 of those 20 years. We have never cleaned the dryer ducts, and we're certain the previous owners would've had no need to do so. Our washer went out a week ago and so we decided to replace the dryer as well. The dryer had never been moved in 16 years and when I went to unhook it, I was amazed that the connecting pipe was almost completely clogged with lint! We clean our dryer lint collector every time we use it, so it got me to thinking - If there's this much lint in the connecting pipe..... how much lint is in the main pipe that I can't see????? So.... in anticipation of getting a new washer and dryer set, I decided to look into ways of checking into this, and came across this product. Our vent pipe is 30 feet long, and a 90 degree bend 2/3 the way down! Well... that's where this AWESOME TOOL comes in! I was a bit nervous about it until I got it. This thing is made very well, and I had no issues with it at all. I followed the directions and MADE SURE that I - 1. Duct taped the joints 2. Made sure my drill was set to CLOCKWISE 3. Went slow and steady and didn't force anything. The directions are VERY important cause if you do not follow them, you could find yourself in trouble. I recommend that you have a 10 gallon shop vac with the 2" hose to help you with this job! The vac will help in declogging the pipe by sucking the lint as you loosen it. I could NOT BELIEVE how much lint came out of our pipes! I had to unclog the vac hose like 4 times because there was so much volume! Amazing to think that there was so much lint that it clogged up my 10 gallon pro shop vac 4 times!!! The MAIN THING is to GO SLOW! There's no need to put your drill on high. If you don't have a variable speed drill - I recommend you get one. You may get yourself into trouble if your drill only runs in super fast mode because should you run into a snag, you could break the rods inside your duct! Can you imagine that? Therefore... have the right tools for the job, and follow the directions to the letter, cause you don't want that to happen. Due to our 30 foot run, I bought 2 kits rather than buy the extention set because to me, for a few bucks more, why not have extra brushes etc too? The tool assembles with ease and I LOVED the shop vac attachment tool it came with. It made this job sooooooo much easier. Bottom Line - I love this tool! It did exactly what I wanted it to do, and it did it with ease, and sure beat paying someone to do it. I was completely done in about 1/2 hr, for a 30 foot pipe, and I have more airflow from our dryer than ever before! Take a look at some of the pics some people have posted with their lint because this is exactly what I experienced. I removed approx. 2 pounds of lint which is a considerable amount when you think about it. Our pipes are clean, and I can relax in the knowledge that we've increased the life of our new dryer exponentially, and removed the risk for a duct fire. Totally worth every cent to buy this tool in my book ;)

Outstanding, well made product. I have a 15 ft. dryer exhaust duct made of heavy foil "accordian". It's a straight run from the dryer wall to the outside of the house at near ground level except for a 90 deg "S" bend where the duct enters the wall and continues below the floor next to the basement ceiling Since the total length of the rods is 12 feet, I had to clean the duct from both the outside and inside. After reading all the options in the user manual I concluded that the most efficient cleaning method was the following general procedure. I ran the brush through the duct from the outside (while keeping the dryer connected to the duct) and then turned on the dryer on the unheated air flow setting to blow out the debris through the louvered outside vent that the brush did not extract. Then I disconnected the duct from the dryer to the wall and ran the brush through the duct from the inside...being careful to allow the flexible line to let the brush negotiate the two 90 deg bends. I reconnected the dryer to the duct and again turned it on air flow to blow the debris out the outside louvered vent that the brush didn't remove. DETAILS: When cleaning from the outside, I attached the brush to one 3-ft. rod and attached it to my drill. It's best to have a two speed drill (set at the low speed) or a variable speed drill. The outside vent is plastic with three flexible louvers which are easy to remove. I inserted the brush into the end of the duct, turned it on, slowly worked the brush into the duct the full length of the rod, and slowly withdrew the rotating brush (and watched all the debris being pulled out). I did that three times. I then turned on the dryer (unheated air flow) to "clear" the duct. After that I rotated the brush again into the duct to near the end of the rod, disconnected it from the drill, attached the second rod and repeated the process. I reinserted the brush to near the end of the second rod, disconnected it from the drill, attached the third rod and repeated the process....etc... until I had all four rods (12 ft.) attached. When I finished cleaning from the outside, I cleaned the duct from the inside, but I just needed to use one 3-ft. rod. to ensure the entire 15 ft run was cleaned. Of course, don't forget to clean out the duct that connects to the dryer. I also opened the back of the dryer and cleaned the inside. The debris sitting on the grass below the louvered vent was easily cleaned with a house vac using the suction tool. Be patient, read the instructions and pay close attention to what it says about connecting and securing the rod sections. Also, wear a good quality dust mask and hat. If you have a long duct like mine, don't connect all four rods at once and then try to insert the brush and run the drill from 12 feet away -- it'll be too unwieldy. Simply start with one 3-ft rod and add the additional ones to the rods that are inserted in the duct and protruding from the opening as described above and continue rotating the brush. Push the brush in slowly and let it do the work; don't force it. If you apply a little common sense it's really very simple. But the whole cleaning process will take a long time, especially if you have to also clean from the inside which requires moving the dryer, disconnecting the duct and other contortions...so be patient. It's a well-made, effective tool that really does the job.

This is a great dryer vent pipe cleaning system! Our dryer is in the middle of the second floor of the house, so there's a 24-foot pipe from the wall behind the dryer up into the ceiling and across the attic beams to the outdoor vent. Hasn't been cleaned since buying the house brand new in late 2005! Not being a fan of paying strangers to come into my home, I bought the LintEater 10-piece kit and a 12-foot extension rod pack. The "chore" of cleaning the dryer vent pipe turned out to be a real joy because of this inexpensive and very effective tool! Assembly is simple - screw the brush into the end of one of the flexible rods. A little set screw and allen wrench are provided to ensure the brush stays on. Turn your dryer on to the AIR Dry setting to blow unheated air out the vent pipe. Go outdoors with your cordless drill set to turn forward/clockwise, attach the rod/brush assembly to the drill and rotate the brush/rod while pulling it in and out of the dryer vent pipe. When lint stops blowing out - (You won't believe the clumps and quantity of lint this thing dislodges!) - screw another length of rod onto the end of the first rod, insert its end into the drill, make sure the drill will turn clockwise, and spin the lengthened assembly in and out of the dryer vent. Repeat until all rods have been attached and lint stops blowing from the dryer vent as you pull the spinning brush assembly fully back out of the vent. The ONLY thing one must remember in this extremely easy task is to always run the drill in forward/clockwise rotation because the rods will want to unscrew from one another if the drill is accidentally run in reverse. The instructions do offer the idea of putting duct tape around the rod connections after screwing them together to prevent disconnection inside the dryer vent pipe if you forget to only turn the drill in the clockwise direction. As a do-it-yourself kind of guy, I'm willing to buy a tool if it can give me the ability to do a job myself whenever it's convenient for me rather than having to schedule some stranger to do something for me. Rarely, however, does one find such an inexpensive and thorough tool as this! This $40 kit (including the extra pack of extension rods I needed) made the job of cleaning my dryer vent pipe very satisfying and even fun! It stores easily behind the dryer until the next time I'll need it. (The instructions recommend cleaning the vent pipe every few months.) The whole job only took half an hour from start to finish - including getting the ladder out of the garage and set up. There is simply no reason to pay a contractor to do this easy task nor to forego keeping one's dryer vent clear of accumulated lint and the associated fire hazard that it creates. When ordering, measure how far your dryer is from the outside wall of your house where the dryer air is vented and add the vertical distance from the air outlet on the back of the dryer to the ceiling so that you know how many flexible rods you'll need in order to clean the whole thing from the outside. If disconnecting the dryer from the wall pipe is convenient, one could even clean the pipe from the inside outward or from both ends. My experience with the LintEater is unquestionably rated 5 stars. I would heartily recommend it to a friend. It's inexpensive, easy to assemble and use, fast, does a thorough job, is almost impossible to goof up and small to store for future uses. I will not go 6 years without cleaning my dryer vent again now that I have this kit on hand and will happily take it to friend's houses to share the benefits of a clean dryer vent with them.

I have owned this unit for 1 1/2 years so far, and it has operated very well. It uses about 1/2 kwh per day or 180 to 240 kwh per year depending on the temp in the building. The unit is clean, not too loud and does its job. HOWEVER, after 1 1/2 years the relay starter switch went out. This is caused by arcing from each time it is fired up. When this happened I panicked and thought I would lose all my frozen foods and have to go buy a new freezer, BUT a little homework on youtube and thought came up with a quick solution to the problem. I removed the transfer switch from the compressor which is shown in the picture. Don't forget to unplug the freezer first!! To help you find the switch you have to remove a little cover over it on the left side of the compressor. Don't take off the overload protector that has one black wire going into it that is above the relay and that occupies the top prong of three that come out of the compressor. Make sure you make note of the colors of the wires or take a picture of the wires as they are placed on the relay switch. You don't have to undo the ground wire that looks like it is in the way. It is not. You can just use a flat blade screwdriver to ease off the relay switch. Then use the same screwdriver to nudge the wiring connectors off the pins on the relay switch. You will find a part number on the relay switch. I ordered one on Amazon for $10 that had a number that was pretty close and that a reviewer said he had used on a similar freezer. It worked, but then I saw on a youtube video that there is a little disk inside the relay switch that does the work. I carefully opened up the relay switch and pushed the blade connectors out of it from the back which freed up the little disk. There was scoring on the disk and one of the blades. I scraped and sanded off the black ash and then reinserted the blades into the housing. I used a small screwdriver to slightly bend the contacts where they would make good contact with the disk instead of being loose. Now the critical part is that I removed and LIGHTLY sanded the crud off the disk and reinserted it where it made contact with a part of the disk that still had the contact metal whereas the scored area had none. I think this could be done several times to be able to use the disk again, OR this will buy you time while you wait for a new part. The part I ordered on Amazaon was Ministry of Warehouse QP2-4.7 New 3 Pin Start Device Relay Starter Danby Magic Chef Kenmore Refrigerator aftermarket; PMN4534TG48 3464YHRE323299. This unit I believe is manufactured in Ontario, Canada. Hope this saves you some time and money. I would give the unit 5 stars, but good luck searching for parts, and a repairman would cost a fortune most likely and you can lose food waiting so this is good to know if you don't mind rehabilitating the unit on your own and have 30 minutes to do the job. Of course, it could be some other problem with your unit, but I suspect this is bound to happen to most of them due to the nature of the part.

My wife really liked this dishwasher for the first 12 months. The full warranty period was 1 year, then 2 years parts and the customer is responsible for the labor. A little over a year into the dishwasher and the drain hose had rotted, become brittle, and was leaking. Round and round with customer service and they finally send us a drain hose which I replace. This bought a few more months. At around 18 months, the dishwasher started leaking from the water inlet valve. After a long talk with LG's customer service they finally concede that the valve (that I can clearly seek leaking) is bad. Looks like a simple fix, so I kindly ask them to send us a new valve and I will replace it myself. No dice. LG insist on sending one of their certified repair men out this time(which is located 80 miles away) to replace the valve. After arguing over this for a while, I give up and tell them to "have a nice day". The repair man is going to be at least $100 and 4 to 5 days out. I had already looked the part I needed up on repair clinic and found that it cost around $30. So I buy the part, have it shipped, clean out the nasty water inlet meter (remember this part) and have our dishwasher up an running again in a snap. (Our 18 month old, $700 dishwasher that has ruined our floor by now with two leaks). Now a year later I get home and it is not working again. This time it has an OE error and an awful grinding noise when it does decide to run. If I pour water into the tub it drains water fine but only starts the wash cycle sporadically. Again, I remove the dishwasher (I skip calling LG because we are almost 3 years into this $700 POS and the last time they were no help), find that somehow that part of the food grinder has come in contact with the blade AND that the nasty grease trap, I mean water inlet meter, is clogged up again with grease and fowl smelling funk. This seams to be the reason for the bad odors coming from these dishwashers. If you have this problem, remove the dishwasher, look on the left side of the dishwasher and there is a clear plastic part with two switches and a couple hoses coming from it. Remover this and clean it well. While you are at it remove spray arms, and filter assembly and clean all of this as well. After cleaning the funk out, and straightening the bent part on the grinder, my wife's lovely dishwasher is running again. Fingers crossed, this time it didn't cost us anything but a Saturday morning. IN short this dishwasher is Junk and I would not recommend to anyone. POINT IS THIS POS KEEPS BREAKING DOWN. BUYER BEWARE AND READ THE REVIEWS!!!!<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/LG-LDF6920ST-Fully-Integrated-Dishwasher-with-5-Wash-Cycles-3-Spray-Arms-SenseClean-System-Delay-Start-Food-Disposer-and-Self-Clean-Filter-Stainless-Steel/dp/B0019R6ACA/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">LG LDF6920ST Fully Integrated Dishwasher with 5 Wash Cycles, 3 Spray Arms, SenseClean System, Delay Start, Food Disposer and Self-Clean Filter: Stainless Steel</a>

I bought this unit after a glowing recommendation from a salesperson at Home Depot. She said that she owned a unit and loved it. The finish and price seemed to suggest "quality" to me, so it seemed like a no-brainer and between that and Black Friday discounts, I ordered one. Did I do research? Noooo..... Well, buyer beware. At first the unit seemed fine, it looked (and still does) great, and was *extremely* quiet, so I was happy. But after no more than 10 cycles, it started making a very loud, high-pitched, continuous, otherworldly noise. Like something from a Sci-Fi movie. Think of the phasers on the original Star Trek from the 60s ... it sounded something like that. Better yet, go to youtube and search on the model number. You'll find several videos demonstrating the exact same noise. I called LG for service and I spoke to a very helpful, very polite service rep. He didn't hesitate in issuing me a service ticket with a local independent repair company. They got an email authorizing the service visit, and I called them and set the appointment for less than a week later. When the tech arrived and I described the symptom, he seemed to know of the problem, had addressed it before. He'd evidently replaced a lot of motors on this unit. But what he went for first, once he got the thing open, was the "chopper blade". It's a roughly 2.5" blade in the bottom of the unit under a cover. The blade lies flat, parallel to the floor, and is sharpened on the leading edge, the better to chop up food particles before they go out with the wastewater. According to him, "they told us" (I don't know if that means LG or his company or someone else) to first try removing the blade, turning it over, then reinstalling it to see if that cured the noise. In my case, this made 95% of the noise go away, so I am mostly satisfied with noise levels at that point. However, with the blade turned over, the sharpened cutting edge is facing the wrong way, and the blade now depends solely on its speed of rotation (I think the tech said 3000rpm) to chop up the food. In other words, to fix the problem, the functionality of the unit has to some extent been negatively affected. I mentioned to the tech that it seemed to clean my dishes just fine. This seemed to make him slightly happier, as if "not cleaning" was a chronic complaint that he'd encountered and was happy not to have to deal with with my unit. That was just my impression, he didn't say that. He *did* say "don't use it as a garbage disposal". I don't know if most people are in the habit of doing so, but he clearly approved of me rinsing dishes before putting them on the racks. In summary, it's my impression that the unit has a design defect that is well-known but hasn't been fixed. I'm not a dishwasher engineer, but I'd think that some simple modification to the chopper blade would rectify the problem and could be made available as a field-replaceable part. So as they say on failblog, "learn from my fail" and do your homework!

In various homes, we have had ceramic, gas and ceramic with halogen. For us, this is the best we've ever had. Going back to non-induction will likely never happen. We've used the Miele for two months now and believe we've seen both the good points and the bad. Pros: Excellent burner layout. While this may seem pretty simple for any manufacturer to provide, in our looking at many cooktops, it seems to be the exception rather than the rule. Plenty of room between burners, large pots up front or in the middle where they are simple to handle. It's not about boiling water quickly, it's about control. Better than gas, much better than ceramic. Low temperature cooking is a breeze. Very quick response both up and down. Can switch burners on the fly with virtually no heat up time, like gas. No waste heat and no smell, unlike gas. Easy clean up. You can clean as you are cooking. Or lay a paper towel right against the pans if you'e ladling a risotto. No risk of burning or even getting warm. Can handle pots of widely different sizes. As a note on pots: Older stainless pots/pans may ring when heating up. Our old Sitrams do, new ones do not. Our cast iron pans are the most induction happy. They make no noise, heat up the fastest, heat all the way up the sides almost simultaneous with the bottom, cool down quickly. After cast iron, our tri-clad pans and titanium Cybernox are excellent. Aluminum with a stainless bottom is not great. Notably slower compared than the other materials. If you need to buy new non-stick pans, go with coated stainless. You will pay more but cooking on them is much better than induction ready aluminum pans. We have both. Power. We use boost frequently and nothing suffers as a result even if 4 pots are going. What's funny to me is the cooktop is on a 30 amp circuit instead of the 50 amp called for (8 gauge wire, short run) as I forgot to put in a new breaker. One of these days I'll get around to it but it's obvious the Miele has a substantial amount of power we have yet to need. Cons: The touch controls. We have first generation touch controls at another home and I detest them. While the Miele's are better, I view them as senseless. Why introduce a control set that is more difficult to use, sensitive to; leaning on them, covering them with an old baggy sweatshirt that drapes across them, or the towel over my shoulder that drags over them, or a spoon I lean on a pot and the handle happens to end up on a control, or moving a pot and having a control activate? All while providing no addtional benefit over a knob??? Senseless, give me a set of knobs any day. The touch controls on Miele's oven are a joy to use. The cooktop's are not. Having said all of this, my wife loves them and never has an issue with them. I will admit they are light-years better than the first generation touch controls but, our other cooktop must be 10 years old so progress appears slow in coming. It's very shiny. I'm not talking about good quality absolut granite shiny, or the normal run of the mill black glass cooktop. The Miele's surface is like a mirror. As in even a damp micro-fiber is going to leave streaks. An almost dry, completely clean micro-fiber towel is the only way to wipe it off, once any crud or oils have been totally removed. All in all we are extremely pleased with this cooktop. The control set being my rationale for knocking off a star. My wife would give it 5 stars.

Product works great so far (2 weeks since installation), fraction of cost of Maytag part ($90+) or other online appliance parts stores ($50). My washer started making a horribly loud screeching, grinding noise during the spin and rinse/drain cycles (i.e. whenever the tub is spinning to get rid of water). From what I researched online, I thought it might be the drain pump. First, in order to move the washer around in order to access the back panel, I unplugged the washer, and removed the drain hose from the wall (you have to pull the last part of this hose out in a spiral fashion so as not to break the tabs at the end of it). I didn't have to turn the water off and disconnect those hoses since they're long. I opened the back panel, took the hoses off the pump (have a medium plastic bowl and rags on floor to catch lots of water), and unscrewed 3 screws. Then you have to move washer and tip it back in order to get under and take off belt - it helps to have a heavy block or something to hold washer up as you tip it back - be careful it doesn't drop on you. Then put it down, & go back to the back panel and simply lift drain pump out. I noticed that the metal sleeve on the bottom pulley had come out in an uneven way. When this sleeve comes up and out it grinds against the bottom of the pump during spin, and makes that horrible noise. I put the new pump in the hole (don't screw it in yet), tilted the washer up to put the belt back on, then went to the back panel again to screw in the new pump - this part is tricky because the belt is designed to be really tight, so pushing the new pump into position to lineup the screw-holes will be difficult. What makes this possible is the fact that the motor actually is designed to move a little from its housing towards the drain pump in order to screw it in - when you're under the washer, you'll notice that the screws under the motor glide along small tracks, back and forth. So after a little trial and error, you'll screw the new drain pump back in, connect the hoses with the clamps (put the clamps on the pump first, then slide the hoses on) and clean up. Don't put on the back panel just yet b/c you'll want to safely (i.e. from an appropriate distance) look at the drain pump with a flashlight when the washer is on and in spin/rinse mode to check for leaks. Of course, before you can do this, you'll need to reconnect the drain hose to the wall, plug in the electricity cord, and turn the water back on if you turned it off. If this is your first time doing this, it'll take about an hour to be sure you do everything safely and carefully as not to break things. So, with shipping costs, I spent $24 on this part instead of a $130 service call from Sears Blue Crew or the Maytag Authorized repair crews, who would've also charged about $100 for a new drain pump, plus tax. Thus, altogether I spent $24 versus around $250! Gotta love the internet! Good luck! P.s. when checking for leaks after installation, I did see some water drops, but turns out they were from the water hose at the top of the washer where it connects to the flume which channels water into the tub. The clamp there had become rusty and needed to be replaced (I also replaced the flume as well just to be safe - and it was cheap). But that's a whole other story!

Just got this range at the end of Feb 11, and it took a couple weeks to get it installed in the house. The impact this range has had over our stock Whirlpool flat top electrical range I bought with the house almost two years ago, was significant. My wife was won over by the "Bread Proofing" function and a couple visits to local stores for comparisons to other models under consideration (GE, SAMSUNG, LG, BOSCH). Anyway, the ease of cooking with this range is much greater than we would have imagined in a couple short months. A few pros, two small cons, and a small warning are all I have to say about this excellent range. Pros: 1) Easy to clean up. However if you let any food items get on the recessed cook top surface below the grill, your cleanup will be that much harder. Seems obvious, but I have a teenager in the house. The oven surface is also easy to keep up on. 2) Easy glide racks. I slowly worked on the wife for two years about easy glide racks being a major selling point. Every day use has made my case for this seemingly minor feature by significant labor saving feature. 3) Wave touch controls. My wife who does all the baking in the house loves these more than she ever would have realized until she sat down and read the instruction manual. Staged baking programming has made her a believer. 4) Gas cooking. I've never liked electrical coils, and using the range top has made cooking enjoyable if not fun. 5) Looks great with the understated control panel idle and when it is being used. All cooking information is visible and easy to comprehend. 6) Internal lighting with the shiny blue interior helps you see everything. The old Whirlpool had an internal light that made me feel I was looking down a mile deep shaft with a match trying to squint just a couple more photons of reception out of it. 7) No failures, no glitches, and no problems whatsoever to date. Build quality is high and I have yet to see a single operating issue and neither has my wife. I also didn't buy an extended warranty after looking up consumer complaints against the warrantor for the vendor I selected. I expect in one year and a day (after the manufacturers warranty expires) I'll see my first glitch. 8)Bread proofing function. This is what got my wife on board initially. She is a pretty good baker, but proofing the bread in our previous range was a lot of effort for her. This simple function has made it easier for her. Not one loaf has fallen since she started using it. 9) Precision control on burners. I am very impressed with how the burners are responsive and precise. Going from full flame to the lowest setting keeps food warm while you finish up other food items is simple. I have had no issues with our burners to date. 10) The oven comes with convection but my wife hasn't really used it a lot yet. The regular oven setting cooking results have been more even and come out cooked more thoroughly compared to our previous electric range. Cons 1) Price, this nearly killed the deal. If I hadn't gotten shipping and installation with no sales taxes online, a local buy would have cost us well over $2600. 2) The recessed cook top scratches somewhat easily, so don't use metal based scrubbers. Warning: If you leave a burner on simmer, it can be difficult to see in a well lit kitchen. It gets pretty low. In short, this range has been one of the best deals I have ever gotten and I couldn't be happier with my purchase. I would highly recommend it.

We have had our NXR for almost exactly 1 year now. We have the older model "NRG3001" mainly because we preferred the look of the older one. Only difference is the door handle is curved instead of straight and the panel the knobs is on is tilted up instead of flat. I have heard NXR went from the 304 stainless (NRG) to the 430 stainless (DRGB)but can not confirm that myself, ours is 304 stainless. The Range is very well made, is solid stainless steel on all sides & top, has heavy cast iron grates, heavy thick stainless oven racks. 4 excellent burners that are the exact ones used by Wolf, made in Germany and 15,000BTU each and all 4 are the same which I required. I cant stand stoves that have 4 different burners, one big powerful burner one or two medium and then one tiny almost useless burner for just simmering. That is just a total waste of a stove top to me. I much prefer 4 really nice powerful burners where all 4 also become very low simmer burners, MUCH better configuration. The burners are spaced enough apart to be able to use 4 large pots/pans at the same time. Like ALL stainless it is rather easily scratched but other than that it is easy to keep clean and except for a couple tiny scratches still looks like brand new after a year of constant use 3X a day, 7 days a week. Prior to buying ours last March this one review right here on Amazon was the one and only bad review I had ever found for this stove, and as you can tell has NOTHING to do with the stove itself but is a shipping problem. Have since seen 2 others both complaining about the enamel on the inside of oven chipping badly. Both were the DRGB model and seemed like it was probably a bad batch of enamel. Have only seen 2 reviews about that so must not have been wide spread problem. The other review here from August 17th sounds as though they don't even own the stove just regurgitating something they have heard, which I have heard the same thing. But all they say is that it "can rust & spot", but apparently either they don't really own the stove or it hasn't rusted or spotted they just suspect it "might". Not exactly sure how much difference it really makes between 304 to 430 stainless on a stove that is an indoor range and not some outdoor BBQ sitting in the elements. 430 stainless is only slightly less stain/rust resistant and I think the only molecular difference is 430 does not have the 8% Nickle that 304 does. Technically the best stainless would be 316 stainless which virtually no one uses except for BBQs made for marine environments. Anyway, we are very happy with the stove so far, cooks great, looks great and didn't cost an arm and a leg. We bought ours for $1799.00 total cost shipping included. A Kenmore we were looking at cost more and the NXR is easily 10X the stove that Kenmore would have been. The Infrared broiler works very well, oven works great, knobs are nice, the door is heavy duty and even after having the oven on at over 400 degrees for hours the door is only just warm to the touch. For the price there is NOTHING that beats a 30" NXR for value, not even close. Can you get stoves just as nice? Yep, but you will pay dearly for it. Only other stoves that are as good and even better in some respects than the NXR start at least $1000 more. Blue Stars are decent, although I see a lot of complaints about them, Capital Culinarian is very good but both of those will cost considerably more.

As usual, I spent a whole lot of time looking for a replacement dishwasher. Looked at a lot of models, and narrowed the choices down to models from Whirlpool, Bosch and KitchenAid. The high end Bosch and Kitchenaid models were great - read nothing but good things (for the most part) about their performance, and they are very, very quiet. But, cost was a factor, and I just couldn't see paying more than one grand for a dishwasher (and some are a LOT more than a grand!). Looked into Whirlpool since they get excellent reliability ratings from the "consumer" magazine. This model caught my eye since it offered a fully-integrated panel (i.e., the controls are hidden) and some nice convenience features. So far, it has been a top-notch performer. The potscrubber feature works very well, and is identical to the one on the Kitchenaid (not unexpected, since Whirlpool owns Kitchenaid). Love the movable cutlery basket! You can hang it on the door for more room, or put it on the front or side of the lower tray. If loaded properly, silverware comes out clean no matter where you put the basket. If, however, you tend to just toss in forks and spoons and not arrange them, you'll want to put the basket on the lower rack so it gets more direct spray time. The interior is light gray with a tile-type pattern. It's plastic, so it's not as fancy looking as stainless. But, I care more about what the dishwasher looks like from the outside, and the stainless steel outside looks great. It also has a unique feature among hidden control models in that the steam vent is on the front of the machine, and not the top. That's important to keep the steam from hitting the bottom of your counters. Can't figure out why everyone else doesn't do it that way. Many different cycles to choose from including regular, adaptive (which uses sensors to figure out what to do), high temp and sanitary rinse. Lots of nice little touches, such as foldable tines and clips to hold light plastic items so they don't flip over during the wash cycle. Noise levels are very low. No, it is not as whisper quiet as a higher end machine, but the sound level is not at all objectionable. Excellent value - lots of features, works well, looks great, holds a boat-load of dishes, and has lots of convenience features. Can't ask for more than that! >>>>>>>Update June 2010: It's been a year since I've had this, and I'm still 100% satisfied with the machine. I run about 2-3 loads per week and so far I've not had one item not come out perfectly clean. I use an enzyme-based detergent and the rinse-aid. Settings that work for me are adaptive wash with the high-temp option. I usually run the machine after dinner and then unload it the next morning. To save on electricity, I don't use the heated dry. I find that dishes come out completely dry, but plastic items are sometimes damp, especially if it's humid out. Usually the plastic is not damp enough to warrant a towel dry except for a few pieces that I have with a recessed base - enough water collects in the indentation to warrant a quick pass with a towel before putting it back into the shelf. I've tried the sanitizing rinse and that does help dry items a little bit better. I tend to use that only when I have really greasy dishes and want an extra high temp rinse to ensure all grease is gone. Zero mechanical problems so far. Hope this keeps up! >>>>Update March 2012: Working as good as the day I bought it. Very pleased!

I bought this dishwasher 2 or 3 years ago. I wanted to give it a zero rating, but this is not possible. I suppose it can get a one star rating, it still beats hand washing, most times. We bought this dishwasher brand new from a chain store that sells "all the brands". We had traditionally bought our appliances from a local appliance dealer. This dishwasher was to replace the 10 year old Maytag that had endured the abuse of my children. They had abused the Maytag until it's final cry for mercy. During the six months of having them wash the dishes by hand I had done research on what would be the best, rugged, teen proof, bring it!, dishwasher I could find. This was a relatively new model and the reviews on it at the time were great. There seemed to be a lot of room to place a large family amount of dishes in. It was supposed to clean even the toughest (plate missing for six months found under child's bed would make a good science project)dishes. I loved the idea that the upper rack had a height adjustment. I have a huge stock pot that wouldn't fit in the previous dishwasher. It fit in this one. I loved the idea that you could put a pot in the middle of the bottom rack and not worry about the upper rack's dishes getting clean. It was a great dishwasher on paper and in the showroom. My husband and I spent more money on this dishwasher than we had expected but we figured it should last and that over the years the cost would depreciate. Boy, were we wrong. It does not do a great job of washing the dishes. You cannot utilize every prong set so that all the plates can get washed at once. You have to use every other prong set. Sometimes the top rack comes out with food particles that were on the dishes in the bottom rack. The only cycle that does a decent job is the power wash cycle and even this cycle doesn't do the job I spent $1000 to do. I rinse most of my dishes before placing them in the dishwasher, except for things like coffee cups. So, I know it isn't me. Within the first six months the fan on the door went. Luckily, it was still under warrantee. It was very quiet machine, until lately. For the past couple of months, at the end of the cycle, before the cute chime melody, there's a 30 second loud, grinding sound. If I don't hear it at the end of the cycle, I will hear it at the beginning of the next cycle. Today, the dishwasher didn't drain. There is no "drain" button. After cleaning up the flood in my kitchen, I Googled and found out how to drain the dishwasher. It's in the FAQ on the LG site. I drained the dishwasher. After this review, today's quest will be to find the receipt and warrantee info. The lessons I learned from buying this dishwasher: Cost doesn't always equate to quality. Buy your appliances from a local, reputable dealer. They know their products and won't try to sell you the most expensive product unless that's what you're looking for. The $10-20 more it would cost is well worth it in service and repair. especially service. Don't buy new models with very little reviews. Read the reviews, Start with the negatives. Disregard the one star "I wanted pink and it only came in white" reviews. Pay attention to the reviews that tell you not to waste your money. I know this is long. Thank you for your patience in reading this :)

This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System Weve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall. We knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer. I had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is! I did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime! Like with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works. The pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. Disconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. - CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube! - My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race. - I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw. - As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster. - The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue. NOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside. - INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint. - OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!

This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System Weve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall. We knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer. I had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is! I did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime! Like with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works. The pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. Disconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. - CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube! - My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race. - I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw. - As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster. - The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue. NOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside. - INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint. - OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!

This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System Weve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall. We knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer. I had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is! I did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime! Like with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works. The pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. Disconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. - CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube! - My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race. - I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw. - As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster. - The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue. NOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside. - INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint. - OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!

This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System Weve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall. We knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer. I had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is! I did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime! Like with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works. The pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. Disconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. - CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube! - My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race. - I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw. - As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster. - The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue. NOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside. - INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint. - OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!

This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System Weve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall. We knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer. I had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is! I did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime! Like with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works. The pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. Disconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. - CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube! - My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race. - I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw. - As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster. - The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue. NOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside. - INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint. - OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!

This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System Weve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall. We knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer. I had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is! I did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime! Like with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works. The pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. Disconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. - CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube! - My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race. - I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw. - As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster. - The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue. NOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside. - INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint. - OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!

This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System Weve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall. We knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer. I had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is! I did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime! Like with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works. The pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. Disconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. - CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube! - My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race. - I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw. - As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster. - The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue. NOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside. - INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint. - OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!

This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System Weve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall. We knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer. I had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is! I did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime! Like with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works. The pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. Disconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. - CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube! - My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race. - I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw. - As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster. - The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue. NOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside. - INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint. - OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!

This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System Weve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall. We knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer. I had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is! I did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime! Like with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works. The pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. Disconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. - CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube! - My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race. - I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw. - As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster. - The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue. NOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside. - INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint. - OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!

This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System Weve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall. We knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer. I had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is! I did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime! Like with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works. The pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. Disconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. - CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube! - My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race. - I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw. - As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster. - The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue. NOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside. - INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint. - OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!

This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System Weve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall. We knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer. I had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is! I did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime! Like with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works. The pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. Disconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. - CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube! - My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race. - I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw. - As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster. - The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue. NOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside. - INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint. - OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!

This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System Weve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall. We knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer. I had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is! I did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime! Like with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works. The pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. Disconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. - CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube! - My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race. - I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw. - As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster. - The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue. NOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside. - INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint. - OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!

This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System Weve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall. We knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer. I had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is! I did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime! Like with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works. The pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. Disconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. - CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube! - My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race. - I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw. - As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster. - The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue. NOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside. - INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint. - OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!

This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System Weve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall. We knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer. I had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is! I did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime! Like with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works. The pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. Disconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. - CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube! - My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race. - I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw. - As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster. - The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue. NOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside. - INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint. - OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!

This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System Weve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall. We knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer. I had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is! I did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime! Like with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works. The pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. Disconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. - CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube! - My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race. - I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw. - As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster. - The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue. NOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside. - INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint. - OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!

This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System Weve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall. We knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer. I had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is! I did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime! Like with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works. The pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. Disconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. - CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube! - My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race. - I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw. - As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster. - The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue. NOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside. - INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint. - OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!

This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System Weve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall. We knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer. I had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is! I did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime! Like with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works. The pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. Disconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. - CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube! - My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race. - I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw. - As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster. - The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue. NOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside. - INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint. - OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!

This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System Weve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall. We knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer. I had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is! I did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime! Like with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works. The pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. Disconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. - CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube! - My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race. - I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw. - As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster. - The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue. NOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside. - INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint. - OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!

This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System Weve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall. We knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer. I had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is! I did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime! Like with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works. The pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. Disconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. - CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube! - My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race. - I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw. - As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster. - The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue. NOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside. - INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint. - OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!

This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System Weve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall. We knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer. I had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is! I did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime! Like with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works. The pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. Disconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. - CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube! - My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race. - I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw. - As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster. - The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue. NOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside. - INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint. - OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!

This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System Weve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall. We knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer. I had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is! I did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime! Like with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works. The pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. Disconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. - CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube! - My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race. - I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw. - As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster. - The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue. NOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside. - INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint. - OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!

This review is for Gardus RLE202 LintEater 10-Piece Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning System Weve been paying $75 per visit for the service guy from the appliance store to come every 4-5 months and clean the flexible duct thats routed in a less than optimal manner due to location and a variety of road blocks from the dryer to the outside wall. We knew the time was coming for a cleaning when clothes didn't dry very well and right near the end when it REALLY needed cleaning, there would actually be water on the floor under the dryer. I had to use some vacation days or lose them and was recently at home for the first time when he came. I watched the process and thought, *I* should be doing this if thats all it is! I did my research, LintEater is pretty clearly the way to go and made my purchase. Youve got to love Amazon Prime! Like with ANY product, you have weigh the number of positive reviews against the handful of bad ones. The bad reviews are likely from people who are mechanically challenged or didn't read the manual or watch YouTube videos to get an idea of how the process works. The pictures of the twisted rod? Someone had one of more of these: Speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. Disconnected or broke in the vent pipe? The rods cant come apart if you run the drill ONLY clockwise. Thats simple physics they simply cant come apart IF you use clockwise ONLY. The brush head broke or stripped out is going to be like the twisted rod; speed too high, clutch too high or didn't use a clutched drill at all, pushed against an impassable bend or obstruction on the vent pipe. - CLOCKWISE ONLY for both going into and back out of the vent tube! - My cordless drill is a Ridgid model R82005 3/8. The clutch goes from 0 to 16.5. It has a switch marked 1 & 2 for overall speed. I set the clutch to FOUR and the speed to ONE. You're not drilling holes or driving screws... you're not going as hard and fast as you can. Slow and easy wins this particular race. - I put red Loctite thread locker on the threads attaching the rotary brush head to the rod AND to the set screw. - As I added each section, I tightened them against each other with a pair of pliers on each section. THEN, I wrapped electrical tape a couple times around the joined sections. This is all just common sense insurance against disaster. - The female ends of the rod that go into the drill chuck aren't knurled, but I had no problem with them spinning in the chuck. Slow speed and minimal torque are probably why this was not an issue. NOTE: I didn't think Id need the extra rod extensions, but I do and came back to order them. To get this done for now, I had to do half from inside the house and half from outside. - INSIDE the house, vent pipe disconnected from the dryer, I used the vent insert in the vent pipe end with a Ridgid 6HP shop vac and the cleaning tool rod through the provided hole in the insert. This worked fantastically well; I had to clean the vac filter a couple times due to all the lint. - OUTSIDE the house, I didn't bother with the vacuum, figuring the birds would get whatever lint they found or the elements would just break it down pretty quickly. Turn the dryer ON to blow out the loosened lint as you clean the pipe, wear googles or something to keep the lint dust out of your eyes and off you go!