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We have had this washer for over a year now and it's been non-functioning off and on for almost 8 months. We bought local, and even so, getting the repair is near impossible. 2 different repairmen have worked on it. The first just plain said call someone else after the first round. The second finally told us that we have to call the Maytag people direct. First, we had a problem with cycles no longer working. So the circuitry was going. Finally got a repairman (we DID buy the extended warrantee thankfully). It took quite a while to get a new board. First the guy came to get the code from the problem, then ordered new board. New board worked partially for maybe 3 weeks, but even so, without the circulator pump which is used the first 10 minutes of the cycle to "inject" the soap by spinning through the clothes. Then the cycles started going again. This repairman would not come back. The warrantee people found a new repairman and we are now repeating the process. He explained that there was a recall on the boards, but no way to tell if their were still some in distribution so no guarantee that we wouldn't get another faulty board, but what to do? The new board was installed and washer did work partially again, but still without the circulator pump. The repairman went in search of a new part, and a month later said he was told it wasn't available anymore, and we needed to call Maytag again. In the meantime we could still use the washer but only on the Bulky cycle because that one skips the inject phase of the soap dispersal. That lasted maybe 3 weeks, and all of a sudden, the washer no longer DRAINS and has stopped mid cycle half full of water. I think I have spent almost as much at the laundry mat now than if I'd just bought a new washer when it first went on the fritz. We keep getting the run-around and delays from Maytag who now have Promised either to find parts or replace the washer. I'm worry that even if they do come up with parts, they will last only so long. Aside from the tech problems not getting fixed, when it did work, I was only marginally satisfied. We bought primarily for capacity, but it's sacrificing other things: 1) I agree with the other reviewer, this was develops a very bad mildew smell. If you go on vacation for a couple of weeks, you literally have to dump in cleaner or just plain bleach and RUN as soon as you turn on the clean cycle or risk throwing up on the machine. 2) Twists and mangles clothes. Even when carefully placing and aligning clothes, it is NOT gentle as the ads claim. 3) Does not clean well when at capacity. You can only fill it half full if you have heavy soiled or stained clothes. We have a farm and clothes get DIRTY. Grease stains do not come out. My old washer (Westinghouse) did not have any problem with barn clothes. That machine worked faithfully for over 20 years. I'm sorry I no longer live with that machine. WE GOT A LEMON.

These stoves are known to have limited insulation and heat shielding causing the outside of the range to get hot to the touch and I can attest to this. Also these models make tons of noise (expansion and contraction) when heating up and cooling down. The single worst thing though is the computer control jobby! It must have been designed by lab monkeys or something. I have had 3 service calls and have a 4th scheduled right now all for the same issue in less than two months. Apparently moisture and/or condensation gets inside the control module and causes it to throw an error code. This turns out to be nice business for the local Factory Repair company since they get to bill Whirlppol every time they come out here; but it is an unbelieveable nightmare for me. After the warmup countdown the stove almost always throws an F2 (stuck key) error code. Meaning that I then have to unplug and power down the unit for at least 2 minutes. Anything less and it locks you out of the control panel entirely. While it is powered down this unit is useless as the electronic ignition won't work. Keeping the clock set is pointless as well seeing as how you are going to have to shut it down nearly every time you use the oven. The last time the repair guy was here he mentioned the moisture issue. This seems to be a situation that Whirlpool knows about and has done nothing to fix. Update! Finally got a repairman who had dealt with this issue before and knew how to fix. Apparently the way the exhuast goes therre is an inherent risk of overheating the control panel. He manually bent the exhaust pipe or whatever it is called. Now when you run the oven the stovetop gets hot enough to melt anything plastic left on the range.....However, it know works like it should have from the factory. It appears that the design has a correctable flaw and that Whirlpool would rather spend money and waste the time of customers by making you deal with repeat repair calls for an issue they can and should fix before sale or at the very least on the first visit. This stove is also a beauty to look at. Keeping it clean is difficult with the super gloss finish. After a scrub down with your cleanser and sponge of choice use a solution made from any common degreaser spray and dawn....A little goes a long way and then polish the range with a dishcloth. This is the only way I have found to keep it gleaming. UPDATE 03/19/2011 This thing started throwing the SAME F2 code again! This things is a lemon! I have owned it less than 4 months and It still does the same thing after 5 0r 6 repair visits!!! I am filing BBB, Attorney General and Federal Trade Commission complaints! The Whirlpool company has now paid out more in repair costs than I paid for the range and I still don't have a properly functioning stove! STAY away from Whirlpool Appliances! Look at other consumer sites and you will see that they are apparently slapping the Whirlpool nameplate on a lot of poorly designed and manufactured garbage!

I cannot talk about the double oven style, but I recently purchased the single wall oven. The first one installed did not work at all. None of the controls would operate properly. When I would set the control to broil, I would get proof. If I tried to bake, I got nothing. After GE insisting on trying to fix it by replacing 4 parts, they finally came to the same conclusion - the oven did not work. They did replace it within a short period of time. The second oven I received, appeared to work properly. I was able to bake a cheesecake, rum cake, noodle kogel and banana bread pudding without a problem - note all small pan items. When I tried to bake cookies, I discovered a design flaw. My cookie sheets took over almost the complete rack. Should be no problem, right? Not right. The first batch I tried baking on the "bake" setting. My cooking time was 17 minutes. When I went to pull out my cookies, the ones in the upper left corner were browned (beyond where they should be), but the other cookies were not even slightly browned. I had to remove the pan or have burnt cookies in the back. I tried another batch using "convection bake multi rack". The results were even worse. The cookies in the back on both sides were now burning, there was a little color on the outside edges of those on both sides of the oven and a touch along the outside edge of the cookies in the front,but the middle remained very undercooked. The 1st GE tech replaced the broiler unit after noticing that the left side was brighter and on more than the rest of the unit and noting that the temperature was hotter in the back. I tried baking again after this change. The results were the same. The cookies in the back would burn while the ones in the middle were not done. Another tech and another confirmation that the back was hotter than the rest of the oven, this time it was determined that it was at least 25 degrees hotter. I figured out that the fan, which is located in the center of the back of the oven, was drawing the air in and then heated air was being pushed out two elongated vents on either side of it straight up the sides of the oven. This air is at least 25 degrees hotter than the set temperature. My other ovens do not shoot the air straight forward as this one does and I have no problem baking cookies or anything in a larger pan. I advised GE consumer relations about the problem and they say "the oven works as designed". They will not admit there is a problem or offer a solution other than to send out another repair company to come to the same conclusion. By the way, none of the techs or the consumer relations person cook very much and none baked. My conclusion is - if you are a baker, do NOT buy this oven. If you never cook anything in a larger pan, then the oven may be very nice for you.

Since you're paying a lot for a little fridge like this, it ought to work right. Unfortunately that is not what happens with this model. My advice is to avoid it if you have a better option, or be sure to get an extended service contract. These can be purchased at any time. Poor Design: * The doors typically pop back open a little when you close them with a push, and the door alarm will not sound if this happens. * The water dispenser is in a terrible location, as is the icemaker. They get in the way, and both are more trouble than they are worth. * The plastic cover for the deli tray attaches to plastic pegs to crate a hinge. These pegs get stressed and break pretty easily, just from regular use. The deli cover will start popping loose and then the pegs break. Known Water/Ice problems: * Food in the back of the fridge routinely freezes even with the internal thermostat set at 38 degrees F. I've found other Kitchenaid fridge owners mentioning this problem online. One suggested solution is to not use the icemaker, but that hasn't worked for me. Items at the back of the fridge tend to freeze. * Worse, after a year of use the drain system clogged and iced up, which requires significant effort or a professional to fix. The condenser is constantly removing humidity to a drain that terminates in a pan under the fridge where an evaporator (heater) is supposed to disperse it into the outside/room air. If the drain line clogs it will ice up, and then the newly draining water will pool in the bottom of the freezer. You may not notice this until there is a large sheet of ice at the bottom of the freezer and incoming drain water is going over the ice and out the freezer door onto your floor. This isn't all that obvious, so like me the first thing you might notice is your wood floor warping and sinking under one of the front feet of the fridge. To clear the drain everything has to be removed and the fridge shut down to de-ice. Then you can snake the drain line or flush it with air or water. If the icing resumes, you probably have a broken evaporator. I had this icing problem just as our 1 year warranty was expiring. Fortunately it still covered us, and we bought additional 5 year coverage. I'm adjusting my rating up to 3 stars since the problem was not too severe, but finding out it's a common problem -- and in the first year -- seems to indicate an engineering fault. Conclusion: After a year and a half of ownership requiring service for repairs, I'm revising my rating up to 2 stars. Repairs took care of everything but the tendency for food in the back of the fridge to freeze, although a certified Kitchenaid repairman hoped that adjusting the doors and seal would help. It's possible the front door seals are simply inadequate or there is another problem causing the freezing inside the fridge at a 38 degree temperature setting. Either way, it and the other things mentioned above seem to be engineering faults that are common to this model. It is serviceable with luck and care, but I do not like or recommend it.

I am writing due to the piece of crap Cabrio we purchased exactly 4 years ago this week: This was the review I wrote after having this piece of crap one month: I bought the Cabrio on 10/9/06 and by 10/23/06 it was not working properly. I contacted Whirlpool on 11/9/06 and they informed me that they needed to send a repairman out. It has several problems. The load is out of balance (UL) or I get an error "F51" every single time I try to wash a load. My husband and I are the only ones in our household so the machine is not abused (By teenagers etc). The repairman was at our house for 3 1/2 hours on 11/14/06. He ordered a wiring harness, a computer board and a censor for this 1 MONTH OLD MACHINE. I called Whirlpool in frustation simply asking them to take this LEMON back. They offered nothing and they were quite rude in the process. They said my only option was to have my machine repaired....and so the circle begins. Our last set was a Maytag and we had the set (still are using the dryer) for over 12 years. Boy how we regret going to Whirlpool. Please take my advice and SAVE YOUR MONEY. I would hate for anyone to go through what Whirlpool has put us through. BTW...my BRAND NEW machine is sitting idle until the repairman can come out IN A WEEK (for another 3 1/2 hours) to put in these parts that he HOPES will work. UPDATE: It is now exactly 4 years later and the only reason I suffer with this machine is due to the fact we PAID SOOOO MUCH MONEY FOR IT!! The front is now rusted out!!! YES, RUSTED OUT!! And, it takes me about a day to wash ONE LOAD of Laundry...I get an "F1" (I believe it should be FU) about 4 times at the beginning of a load and then when it goes to rinse I get an F1 again approximately 3 times!! Sometimes I have to start from scratch with an entirely different setting. The only satisfaction I've gotten over the past 4 years is writing horrible reviews on your product and making sure everyone I talk to about laundry (and it's a lot more times than any normal person should have to talk about laundry!!) how they should NEVER spend a dime on a whirlpool! This is an absolute piece of crap and I cannot believe you have never done a thing to rectify this situation!! So sad that you could have and should have taken care of this FOUR YEARS Ago! When my husband calls your useless 800 number he just gets sent around in a big circle and then is told you are CLOSED. I will never buy another Whirl pool product as long as I live!! Please do something about this piece of crap taking up space in my laundry room and BEEPING at me ALL DAY LONG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The Amana AER5830VAW Self-Cleaning Electric Range has been an excellent appliance so far. This is the first time I've owned an Amana, but I've owned/used several Whirlpool, Maytag, and GE ranges. Of course, these days many are all manufactured by one or two companies. The AER5830VAW has a good combination of aesthetic design and useful features. I consider the look and design of this range to have a bit of a modern feel with classic details. The glass ceramic cooktop is sleek and inviting. The top of the range with the knobs and control center is a bit more classic. It does have an easy touch digital control center for timers, oven temperature, etc. The front of the unit is fairly standard, but I really like the extra-large oven window. That combined with a bright interior light gives you a great view of what is cooking without having to open the door. The glass ceramic cooktop is great. So far, it's been easy to maintain and clean. The heating elements heat up very quickly. The AER5830VAW includes two 6" and two 10" elements with a good amount of spacing in-between them. If you are used to the standard heating coil ranges it will take a little getting used to, but I've really been enjoying the quick heating elements of the Amana and more even cooking. The oven itself seems spacious and includes two racks. It has 4.8 cubic feet, which is standard or a little larger I believe, but it feels like it has plenty of room. While the self-cleaning feature isn't really anything new, it is nice to have and is adjustable based on how much cleaning needs to be done. Again, the large viewing window is definitely a nice addition. I felt like the oven was a little slow to preheat, but that could have just been my excitement (guess I should remember that a watched pot never boils). It has timed bake, as well as the ability to do a delay bake. The custom broil option is also nice, allowing you to broil delicate items at a lower heat. The oven door is nice and sturdy as well. One downside is the storage drawer on the bottom. I've noticed that just about every manufacturer has started to neglect the storage drawer, using just a small flimsy system. Storage compared to my older range was probably cut in half, or at least it feels that way. Upon opening the drawer it doesn't stay on track as well and isn't really smooth at all. Again, this seems to be a trend with ranges today and not just this Amana model. Overall, the Amana AER5830VAW is a nice looking unit that provides some great features. I'd give the unit five stars on the most important features: the oven and cooking surface. I really hesitated on whether to give it four stars or five stars overall. While the storage drawer isn't vital to the operation of the range, it did give it a bit of a cheap feel. Had the drawer been sturdier and the design a bit more modern I would have gone five stars all the way. But overall, I don't think you could go wrong with this range for its features and cooking ability.

I am writing due to the piece of crap Cabrio we purchased exactly 4 years ago this week: This was the review I wrote after having this piece of crap one month: I bought the Cabrio on 10/9/06 and by 10/23/06 it was not working properly. I contacted Whirlpool on 11/9/06 and they informed me that they needed to send a repairman out. It has several problems. The load is out of balance (UL) or I get an error "F51" every single time I try to wash a load. My husband and I are the only ones in our household so the machine is not abused (By teenagers etc). The repairman was at our house for 3 1/2 hours on 11/14/06. He ordered a wiring harness, a computer board and a censor for this 1 MONTH OLD MACHINE. I called Whirlpool in frustation simply asking them to take this LEMON back. They offered nothing and they were quite rude in the process. They said my only option was to have my machine repaired....and so the circle begins. Our last set was a Maytag and we had the set (still are using the dryer) for over 12 years. Boy how we regret going to Whirlpool. Please take my advice and SAVE YOUR MONEY. I would hate for anyone to go through what Whirlpool has put us through. BTW...my BRAND NEW machine is sitting idle until the repairman can come out IN A WEEK (for another 3 1/2 hours) to put in these parts that he HOPES will work. UPDATE: It is now exactly 4 years later and the only reason I suffer with this machine is due to the fact we PAID SOOOO MUCH MONEY FOR IT!! The front is now rusted out!!! YES, RUSTED OUT!! And, it takes me about a day to wash ONE LOAD of Laundry...I get an "F1" (I believe it should be FU) about 4 times at the beginning of a load and then when it goes to rinse I get an F1 again approximately 3 times!! Sometimes I have to start from scratch with an entirely different setting. The only satisfaction I've gotten over the past 4 years is writing horrible reviews on your product and making sure everyone I talk to about laundry (and it's a lot more times than any normal person should have to talk about laundry!!) how they should NEVER spend a dime on a whirlpool! This is an absolute piece of crap and I cannot believe you have never done a thing to rectify this situation!! So sad that you could have and should have taken care of this FOUR YEARS Ago! When my husband calls your useless 800 number he just gets sent around in a big circle and then is told you are CLOSED. I will never buy another Whirl pool product as long as I live!! Please do something about this piece of crap taking up space in my laundry room and BEEPING at me ALL DAY LONG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Several of my frequently used CONTROL PANEL "dimple" buttons had their outer plastic covering/labeling crack off. They mechanically still worked but you could not read the button's function. Easy to replace, but you must ******DISCONNECT ELECTRIC POWER AT BREAKER!****** The power that feeds the control panel and the door switch are exposed when disassembling. - This part is WHITE, don't make the mistake of ordering wrong color. They come in BLACK (W10083050) & BISQUE (W10083049) Disassembling: There were instructions on how to slightly modify the control panel circuit "tabs", if you have a 2005 or older model. I did not need to do this. There were NO other instructions. Here's what I did to replace new panel. *******FIRST THING!!!! OPEN THE BREAKER FEEDING THE DISHWASHER AT YOUR POWER PANEL********** 1 - Remove only the six (6) upper door screws . Two (2) each @ door latch, top left & right (Torx size T-15) 2 - Remove control panel from door only enough to expose door latch switch and circuit board cover. 3 - Remove the circuit board cover - Release the three (3) latches to remove cover. 4 - Remove the door latch switch - Release the two (2) tabs to remove switch. (I did this with my fingers but a small screwdriver can also be used for removing all tabs.) 5 - Remove the door handle cover. This is about a 4" narrow piece of plastic located underneath where the door latch switch assembly was located on the old panel. YOU WILL NEED TO REUSE THIS PART ON THE NEW PANEL. There is no need to by a new one. 6 - Remove the circuit board cover - Release the three (3) latches to remove cover. 7 - Remove the circuit board - Release the two (2) latches at the circuit board which are located toward the door latch end of circuit board. Be careful not to damage ribbon tape pin connector on the circuit board. Slide circuit board out of "old" pane. Hold the old panel and circuit board closely until disconnecting pin connector 8 - Disconnect pin connector by sliding away from circuit board. I used my finger nail to GENTLY pry apart and then gently pull apart. Re-installation: 1 - Modify tabs if needed per enclosed directions. I did not need to perform this. 2 - Re-install old door latch handle onto new panel. 3 - Re-install door latch switch. 4 - Reconnect ribbon tab to pins. There are slots on the circuit board that coincide to tabs on the connector to guide the connector into position. 5 - Re-install circuit board. 6 - Re-install circuit board cover. 7 - Install the six (6) screws. Do not over-tighten because the connections could break. 8 - Close in the breaker at your power panel. 9 - Check for proper operation. I hope this info helps. This is an easy DIY-er repair but you are working with electrical.

I am writing this review three years later because we are still upset we bought this unit. Sure I save a few bucks buying this online, but the headaches were not worth it. The oven broke the first time we used it (broken ignition lighter). Good news was that it was covered and repaired it rather quickly. However, at the same time I complained about the burners not looking like they are were emitting a high enough flame and not heating fast enough. Guy told me "no, that's normal". After several more calls they sent the guy out again. He blamed the new kitchen contractor / installer now and said we weren't getting enough natural gas to the unit. Call the the kitchen guy back who tested everything and narrowed it down to the range/over. Finally after demanding answers over a couple of weeks it turns out they sold me a natural gas oven that was set up for propane. Not sure why or if it was previously sold, but that's why the burners weren't allowing enough natural gas through. Each and every of the six burners needed to be retro fitted back to a gas assembly. Oh the parts.... back ordered from Italy they told me. From the time I had it installed to the time it actually worked; it took months. The whole time getting the run around from some shifty sounding guy in Brooklyn with a Philadelphia phone number. That was the seller HCCost. While they did eventually fix the problem (at no cost to me); the whole thing was sketchy. Fast forward three years later and the burner assemblies never seem to sit on the range properly and click all the time. Every time we clean the range I need to take 10-15 mins to align the burner assemblies because the moved somehow and constantly click click click trying to ignite. If one is off kilter; they all click click click endlessly. Even after you shut the burners off. While the unit is nice and big and looks nice; it was a bad purchase for us. Ordered on October 9, 2014 Delivered on October 16, 2014 Installed on December 19, 2014 First use was December 24, 2014 First repair visit January 22, 2015 Second repair visit January 26, 2015 About 10 phone calls and emails in February and finally I had to make threats using MasterCard , Amazon and Better Business Bureau. March 26, 2015 told parts are in and they can schedule me for repair. April 2, 2015 I was told they would be out that week. April 7, 2015 Range finally repaired and operational. Would you buy from this over ..................? The manufacturer Adco was completely "blow off the customer" attitude the whole time. Looking back I can't believe I was as patient with the situation as I was.

this review is mostly about the repair service I've recently received from Bertazzoni, but also for the range itself, to the extent that my older range is the same as the current model. I bought a house that came with the 2002 version of this Bertazzoni range. Back in 2002, Bertazzoni sold what is now called its "Master" line under the brand name "La Germania", not Bertazzoni, but that was just a naming/marketing thing they did for a year or two. In 2013 I got very good service, and was able to find the correct parts for my eleven year old "La Germania" range, but because of the name confusion ("La Germania") I had to email Bertazzoni directly in Italy at [email protected], rather then starting with the normal Bertazzoni service network in the US. They bent over backwards to help me get my range fixed, and I can't praise their service enough. I love the 5 burner arrangement because I get a very high output capable burner (up to 15,000 btu) but without needing to have space for a 48" range. The large burner has flame in a small ring around the inside, and also a larger ring further out, so heat is delivered to the bottom of the pan much more evenly than typical burners that have flame only in a ring around the outside. The range top and burners are very easy to clean because there are no gaps for junk to fall between. Usually I just wipe the stainless steel, but when I need to clean the round burner heads (where the flame comes out) that's also easy (they just lift off). The whole thing is built solidly, and designed simply, so it's reliable. My oven thermostat needed to be replaced after eleven years, but the part is still available, and only 120 bucks (very reasonable for the most complicated part on the thing). I've never broken a knob, or had any plastic parts break (it's all steel). It's simple design is a plus for me because of reliability, but if you want fancy electronic oven controls, timers, etc. you might think it's a minus. It's beautiful. I'm more of a function over form guy, but if I cared a lot about how my range looked, I'd still be very happy with this one, it really is beautiful. I like that nothing about it looks cheap. It looks/is solid and high quality. I can cook on it easily, clean it easily, and it is reliable; for me that's 95% of what a range is supposed to do. It's not perfect, but I find its flaws to be minor. The oven door gets a little hotter than I like when baking at high temperature. The oven is wider than I need (so maybe burns more gas than a smaller oven would require) and isn't as tall as most ovens I've used. I've never needed it to be taller, but it could be a problem some day, so check the dimensions and be sure you're okay with the oven height.

We bought this dryer from a local independent appliance store with a matching washing machine. This is a good old fashioned dryer that works beautifully. It replaced a similar 20 year old Maytag that had started screeching. The installers hooked it up and set it up to run for 30 minutes to burn off a coating that was on it when it arrived. The instructions said to wipe off the coating so I did that too but I'm not sure if that was necessary. We got this dryer along with the Speed Queen AWN542 washing machine. So far, we have been impressed with both machines. This version of the dryer is a lot like the most basic dryer but adds a knob that controls a warning buzzer with adjustable sound levels and a LIGHT inside the dryer - which is really cool. There is no moisture sensor but the temperature sensor seems to figure out how to dry the clothes well enough. If anything, it errs on the side of drying a bit too long so I usually set it to "Less Dry". No problems so far. Compared to our old Maytag dryer, the Speed Queen seems bigger but it might just seem bigger because of the light and the bigger door opening. We were looking for a solid top loading machine but the lower priced Whirlpool clone machines all had the same light weight doors/ door handles and lint traps that pull out of the top of the machine and make a mess on the top of the dryer. The Speed Queen feels and looks a lot more substantial than the low end dryers. It seems like a simple thing, but the lint trap is set into the bottom of the door opening with a small plastic grid to hold the lint in the compartment until you are ready to scoop the lint out. The design doesn't allow lint to get inside the cabinet of the dryer itself. We had our old dryer repaired once and the inside of the dryer cabinet, under and behind the dryer drum was full of dryer lint that had accumulated over the years. I think that lint is what eventually contributed to the demise of the old dryer. The Speed Queen lint trap design is much better because you just scoop out the lint without pulling the lint trap screen out. I don't think much lint can get under/ behind the dryer drum. The dryer light comes on like a refrigerator light. It probably isn't essential but it's very nice to be able to see in there. The door opening is very large so it's very easy to fish around and find your favorite socks or whatever before the rest of the load is finished drying. I expect my college age daughter will enjoy this feature when she comes home for the holidays. I also ordered the optional dryer rack from an online appliance supply company. This option is standard on the higher spec Speed Queen dryer but our appliance store didn't have that version in stock. The shelf fits nicely from front to back and the dryer drum spins around it. I've always wanted one of these for drying shoes or low temp drying of sweaters and delicates. I haven't tried the rack yet but it is well made and fits in the dryer perfectly.

I moved into a small apartment and a Haier unit was installed. I was so excited to live a life without counting quarters and trips to the laundromat. Until. After approx 3 months during a dry cycle I heard a strange ping and smelled smoke. The machine was dead. It wouldn't even turn on. My landlord had a technician out twice to try to repair it to no avail. He also contacted Haier to try to get replacement parts and was unsuccessful. Eventually after months of fruitless attempts to repair the unit my landlord purchased a new Haier. A brand new Haier washer/dryer arrives! Yay! Three months later it stops drying clothes. Completely. Not damp, not slightly wet but absolutely sopping wet. The lint trap also fills to overflowing with water as I found out the hard way with a flooded floor. This time I took the reins on getting the unit repaired as it was still under it's one year warranty. After multiple calls to Haier I finally arranged for a technician to come out to look at the unit. He admitted that he had no idea how to fix it and left. Another 3 hour call to Haier and two weeks later a second technician came out. He pulled out some lint, moved a hose or two and the unit STILL did not work. So another 3 hour call to Haier got a third technician out and he deemed the unit unrepairable. At this point I called Haier again to request a replacement unit. I called at least twice a week for over two months and each time was told they had lost the paperwork or the previous representative had filed the information had done so incorrectly. It was so unbelievably terrible and unprofessional each phone call either had me in tears or drinking heavily. Then they requested I overnight ship a signed affidavit stating the machine didn't work and another copy of the bar code (from the back of a 300 pound machine). So $40 later that is sent to them. Once again I call and call and they claimed to not have received it. Then another two weeks later when I call they had miraculously had the paperwork the whole time and the hold up was the shipping company contacting me to arrange delivery of the new unit. How promising. Another two weeks. No call from the shipping company. More calls to Haier and more being told I needed to wait for the shipping company. Then several days later I get a voicemail from Haier saying that they had discontinued the unit and they aren't replacing it. They will send a refund check instead. Oh and they won't offer a full refund either. Only 80% since the unit had been "used". That was a month ago and I still have not received a check. So it is now many many months after my Haier washer/dryer stopped working. I do not have a new unit and I do not have a refund. Please save yourself the misery of dealing with an incompetent company and an inferior product. Anything but Haier.

This is a really basic stove, which is what I like. I actually had a nearly identical model in white, but it was from the year 2000 and really in bad shape. Our house has the old-school 32" cutout, so this was my only option (until we remodel in the future) besided the ceramic/glass top one. Installation was ridiculously easy, just lift the old one out, drop this one in, connect the wires. There are wire spring hold downs included to keep it snug. The burners are standard for this type of stove. The small ones are 1250 watts, the big ones are 2100. I think they perform just fine; I'm not in cooking race, and I don't pay attention to any extra time it takes (extra 30 seconds or whatever) to boil water or heat a pan. Now if you need more heat, the common replacement elements available at most home improvement stores are 1500 watts and 2600 watts. Quality is on par with an inexpensive simple stove. The knobs are plastic, but thick and easy to grasp. They turn smoothly and have a nice 'snap' when they are rotated to the Off position. Heat control is good, I went through about 20 steps of the knob and every position gave me slightly more heat, so I'm not sure what the complaints are about. One minor gripe is that the Off position is at 9 o'clock, not 12 o'clock like you find on most stoves. But you get used to it. The top is real stainless steel, not painted, not coated. Other reviewers who said it was just a "stainless steel finish" are just wrong, or blind. The drip pans are the typical chrome plated steel, and of course they will eventually rust, that's why they are removable. The markings on the control panel are simply silk screened, and if you scrub them they will come off. You can scour the top if needed, but of course it will scratch. I'm not sure what all the "thin metal" complaints are about. This is a low-end stove, and of course it's going to be sheet metal. When mounted properly, it does not sag. I've put 4 normal sized pots of food on the burners, and there is no significant bending. You can get out your micrometer and measure the deflection, but it's not much; anything will bend with weight applied. The metal on this stove is the same thickness as the one it replaced with a manufacture date of 2000. The burners all sit flat, as do the drip pans. The top itself is flat. Again, I'm not sure what people are doing, but the stove itself is fine. And of course you have to know how to install the burners, seat them all the way, or they will stick up. And you have to know how to adjust the sockets so the burners sit flat. In short, it's a good low end stove, very functional, and about the only choice for this oddball size cutout.

On November 23rd I had called LG because my french door refrigerator had stopped cooling a few days earlier. I was told that since it was past the 1 year full warranty I would have to pay for the labor but the parts would be covered. So they charged me $350 and said I would get a call in 24 hours to schedule service. a few days later I got a call and scheduled a repairman to come out a week later. When the repairmen came out he examined the fridge and said that they compressor and closed cooling system would have to be replaced and that he would have to order parts. A week and a half later he came back to repair the fridge which last for about 6 days and then completely stopped cooling again. On December 29th I called LG and explained that my fridge wasn't working and they told me that they would set up an appointment to have someone come out. I asked them if they could get the parts out quickly since this would be the second time they would have to fix it but the LG rep told me that the do not do expedited shipping for anybody and that I would have to wait. The repairman came out on January 3rd and said that they compressor may have been bad and that he would have to order a new one. It is now November 26th (almost a month since the repairman came out) and after leaving messages with the repairman that didn't get returnedI called LG to find out what was happening. after waiting on hold for 45 minutes I finally spoke with a customer service representative who said she would call the repairman to see what was happening. when she got back on the line she said that she spoke with the repair company and was told that they do have someone who could repair closed cooling system refrigerators and that they never bothered to call me and tell me this. The LG rep told me that the repairmen was going to file a claim with LG and that they would have to refund LG for the money they were paid for the repair. I asked the rep if they were going to send out another repair person and they said that they would have to be refunded first and that the person at the repair company said they would do it in 24-48 hours. I then asked the LG rep what would happen if they did not call LG back and refund them, the rep told me she was told they would do it in 24-48 hours. I asked them again "What happens if they don't do it?" and the rep did not give me an answer. so basically, even though I did nothing wrong I have to wait and hope that the repair person refunds them, while I get nothing for the $350 I paid 2 months ago. And since the fridge still needs to be repaired I expect that it will take another week or two for a repairman to come out (big IF on that on) and then another couple weeks for parts to come in since LG won't help out getting it done quickly. I expect that I will have to wait another month to get my refrigerator serviced and that it will be 3 months of not having a fridge. LG was more than happy to take my money but they could care less about actually following through with their customers.

24JUN11: FINAL SAMSUNG SOLUTION TO INADEQUATE HOT/WARM WATER: The final decision was to 100% refund my purchase cost if I cut off the last 7-inches of the power cord and sent it in along with the sticker that has the washer's serial number on it. Done and done. Now that I know what to expect for temperatures (and if you turn up your water heater you'll get higher HOT temps) I feel $0 is the appropriate cost for this washer. ******************************************************************************************************************************************* PREVIOUS REVIEWS: This is a review of the white-colored&nbsp;<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/Samsung-WF520ABW-XAA/dp/B004CZLSD2/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">Samsung WF520ABW/XAA</a>. Same washer guts, different color. HOW I USE THE WF520ABW: - All type of loads: king sheet sets, king mattress covers, big loads of towels, big loads of jeans, small loads of delicates, etc. WF520ABW PROS: - Large 5.0ft capacity (why I bought it), gentle as required, ergonomic interface, many cycle selections. WF520ABW CONS - The following points apply to all 3 brand new WF520ABWs I've had since 1JAN2011. Each with a different manufacturing date. # 3 was manufactured in January 2011: - The Heavy Duty cycle with WARM WASH/WARM RINSE adds only cold water. The maximum wash temp is 59F. - No cycle that allows WARM RINSE selection adds hot water to the rinse. All WARM RINSES are maximum 59F. - Other cycles that do add hot water to their WARM WASH selections have maximum temp of 89F, which is lukewarm to touch at best. - The maximum HOT WASH temp is 116F, which is warm to touch. The maximum EXTRA HOT WASH temp is 131F, which is hot to touch. Cold water is added to every cycle regardless of temp setting, no cycle uses only the hot water inlet. If I want to wash my clothes in hot water and I select a cycle that allows a HOT WASH or even an EXTRA HOT WASH, I think hot water only should enter the washer... that's why I have my hot water heater set at 141F. FINAL NOTES: - Samsung Customer Service agreed with me that there is a problem and authorized a repair on washer number 2. The Bay Area's sole Samsung authorized appliance repair, Jem Appliance (very good people, customer oriented, and knowledgable, BTW) replaced WF520ABW #2's main circuit board and the display board with no change in operation of the HEAVY DUTY CYCLE, WARM WASH/WARM RINSE, so I assume it's a main computer algorithm error. - As of 17FEB11, Samsung is insisting upon a repair technician for the 3rd washer. - The place I purchased it (Lowes South San Francisco) have been very accommodating/customer oriented (equivalent to Amazon's fabled Customer Service!), and I highly recommend them for appliance purchase. I am currently in discussions about the next step(s).

BEWARE: KitchenAid/Whirlpool/Kenmore does not stand behind their products. Short Version: I have an expensive counter depth KitchenAid refrigerator that is 2.5 years old (still paying for it) that I have to replace because it has been diagnosed as non-repairable. I spent much effort jumping through hoops for KitchenAid/Whirlpool Customer Support, only to be told that I should have got an extended warranty. Long Version: Problem: NON-REPAIRABLE Refrigerator - Broken wire in cabinet. Product: KitchenAid 25 cu.ft. refrigerator (Model #:KSCS25FVMK01) Age of Appliance: 2.5 years old (still paying for it) It started out as an intermittent problem with the ice/water dispenser going out. It quickly escalated to the ice/water dispenser, ice maker, and defrost heater completely going out. It took almost a month, 3 service technician and 3 computer boards to diagnose the problem. A broken neutral wire in the cabinet that cannot be fixed. I called KitchenAid to let them know that an non-repairable 2.5 year old refrigerator is unacceptable. KitchenAid/Whirlpool customer support would not even listen to my problem until I had a Authorized KitchenAid Repair company look at the refrigerator. I purchased all my KitchenAid and Kenmore appliances from Sears so I have been going through Sears Home Services (A&E Factory Services) for repair service. I was told by KitchenAid Customer Support that Sears Home Services (A&E Factory Services) are not KitchenAid Authorized??? 4 phone calls and a few hours later I could not convince KitchenAid custom support otherwise so I gave up and had Kitchen Customer Support schedule a service repair for me. I take yet another half day off of work and who shows up to verify that my non-repairable refrigerator is truly non-repairable but A&E Factory Services (same company as the previous service calls). Conclusion, Yes it is non-repairable. I called KitchenAid Customer Support the next day to verify they had all the information they needed to review the case. They said it would be reviewed in 5 business days. I called them 5 days later to find out that the case still did not get reviewed. I called back 5 days later to find out the case was never up for review but I was assured it would be reviewed in the next 24 hours. I called back in 2 days to find out that they did not have the technical data they needed. Here is where I am a little confused because I was speaking with Barbara who said it was rejected by the review committee because of lack of technical data. I was then passed off to the supervisor, Debbie (ID #3277) who told me that there was nothing they could do about it. I should have purchased the extended warranty. I never dreamed that I would be replacing my refrigerator before I finished paying for it. Thanks for the "KitchenAid/Whirlpool Customer Experience"!

I literally put 2 laundry basket full of clothes in this thing, and it cleaned them all, without a problem! I don't know what the other review is talking about, I guess they just got 1 of the bad ones out of the bunch. We have had nothing but happiness with this washer. I literally sat and watched this thing do 2 loads, because it's so awesome to look at your clothes being washed with a bright white light illuminating everything. I am not an engineering genius, I am only 23 years old and I installed this by myself, connected the hoses, leveled it front to back, side to side and it passed the install cycle within 5 minutes! After that I did 3 loads in 1 day, BIG loads, and the washer still kicks butt. THE BEST THING ABOUT THIS WASHER? It has an OUT-OF-BALANCE sensor, so when the Spin part of the cycle starts, you will see the washer spin moderately to see if it is balanced, if it's not, it will come to a stop and repeat, until it finds the perfect balance, and then it goes to its 1400 RPM AWESOMENESS!!! This is the best thing any company could do to increase the longevity of their washers... I had a Maytag top loader whose suspension bars bent because I washed a comforter and it was out of balance and it decided to spin to its top speed. When I read about this Spin Balancing Sensor, I was SOLD. Also, it has a deep clean + sanitize setting which is NSF(National Science Foundation) certified to kill 99.9% of bacteria! What more could you ask for? I have a little one on the way, and this was just the icing on the cake for me! I knew I had to have this awesome washer. It also has an Allergen option, which is NSF certified to kill 95% of Dustmites and remove 95% of pet dander! I am allergic to cats and dogs, so this was a great addition for me, incase I visit someone who has them, I can come home, wash my clothes and know that my Electrolux Washer will keep me safe from the pet dander! AMAZING. P.S. The Department of Energy changed the way they measure the Cubic Feet of washers and dryers, so if you go to Electrolux, you will see that they have updated their size for this model to 4.42 cu Ft. That may sound like a huge disappointment, but the largest front loaders on the market are 4.5 cu Ft. so they were all doing what Electrolux was doing, which was measuring from the Door to the end of the drum, now the measure from the Lip of the drum to the end of the drum! This washer makes laundry fun... which I never thought was possible. It is so silent you can't even hear it, until it gets to the spin cycle where it is moderately loud, but barely vibrates (if you leveled it great)! I hope my review helps you in your decision!

I bought the SR70F-U1 because my brothers recommended Engel. He has the older top loading Engel but they stopped making the top loader model. So I bought this one. I've used this fridge/freezer for about a year. I installed it in my 2016 Mercedes Benz Sprinter this spring (2017). There are two main reasons I'm disappointed to the degree of a 1 star review. The nylon keeper on the back wall is too weak to hold the shelves from sliding forward. When the shelves slide forward toward the door, the sidewalls diverge just enough to let the shelves drop out of their slots and they drop down. I can't put only light stuff on the shelves, because I can't put heavy stuff on the door shelves (read about that below) so I zip-tied the shelves to the useless keepers at the back of the compartment as a work around. The second reason for the 1 star, is the door's hinge design. The door pops open when I am braking and also hit a bump, like rail road tracks. This has happened to me many times. I've added three thick washers under the bottom hinge to try to counter the door's sag. Now if I don't put anything heavy on the door, it stays shut. (The door's spring-loaded keeper pin is chamfered for easy closing. It can be installed backward and that would make the door hard to close and very easy to open. I mention this to ensure the reader that I have not installed the keeper pin backward. For those who think I've got the spring-loaded locking pin in backward, I don't.) The problem is a function of the flimsy door frame and hinges. They allow the right side of the door to sag beyond the tolerance of the spring-loaded keeper-pin to stay engaged under moderate dynamic loading. The other reasons I don't like this products: - The plastic shelves on the door bend and they fall off the door. They didn't get the tolerance right. The plastic shelves don't securely engage the door. - The plastic tray under the freezer is too small and drops down. - The freezer has no door so it's contents drop out the front and the back, i.e., don't stay in the freezer compartment. The interior just isn't designed for RV use on rough roads, specially if you have it facing forward. I didn't have that option based on Sprinter RV optimum human factor usability and space utilization. It's compressor is loud because of internal sheet metal vibration, but I turn it off at night and everything is still cold in the morning. As you'd expect from Engel, it's a good thermal design - low Q.. I'm now looking for a replacement, and I'll use this as my very expensive shop frig, where it will naturally help spread the word. If anyone can point me to a better frig for a Sprinter, please advise in a comment below. I posted this as a product review on Engel's site months ago, but it never showed up, so I'm posting it here. I sent photos to Engel, so if anyone wants me to post them please leave a comment.

I tend to do a lot of investigating before purchasing any major appliance, let alone something online. My wife is a cook and we only have a small kitchen but we make the most out of it. Since we had not been in the electric range market until recently when our previous Amana burned out (some sort of short caused the cord to literally melt away from the range and melt the connectors to the range), I didn't even know stand alone units came with double ovens. I did a lot of investigating online as well as in stores. Really liked the Whirlpool model and the Frigidaire, which had same size double ovens with the upper oven being convection. After narrowing down to the two ranges (with some outside options), we went to Sears Outlet (scratch and dent since most of our range is not seen), ABC Warehouse (outrageous prices), Best Buy and Lowes. Best Buy had the Frigidaire on sale for $1299 which was nearly $200 cheaper than Amazon. Lowes said they would match the price but at last second I decided to measure the ranges to make sure it would fit. I remodeled our kitchen myself and since most ranges are 30-inches or less, I made the opening only 30 inches between the cabinets (most contractors would build it over 30 inches to have space). Knowing my space was only 30 inches wide meant I can't have anything wider. Unfortunately, the Frigidaire (which gets excellent ratings on Amazon) is 30.2 inches wide and so it would not fit but the Whirlpool is 29.9 inches wide which fits perfectly. The Whirlpool with the convection oven on the bottom was about $240 cheaper on Amazon than at any of the stores I mentioned earlier. In addition, it would take a week for Lowes or Best Buy to get it in so with that I decided to try my luck with Amazon. It took about a week to deliver but the purchase price includes shipping so that was a bonus. The delivery only includes them getting it into the main door, which was fine for us since our house is a ranch and it was easy to put in place. The range did come with a rather significant dent on the left side, which had no impact on the performance nor on the appearance since the sides are bookend by cabinets. Therefore, we did not send it back since we also didn't want to go another week without a stove/oven. As for performance, this is significantly better than our Amana which was to be expected. It looks very nice in our kitchen and matches our other appliances very well. The buttons are a little difficult to push but nothing that can't be dealt with. The blue clock is much better looking than the traditional green, it looks more professional and elegant. The stove performs great. We really like the dual sized cooking rings as well as the warming ring. We have not tried the convection oven other than just testing all the features - nothing cooked with it yet. Overall, we really like the range. It has met our expectations and will come in handy for our many summer parties we have. Would recommend this range and if you want more info than Amazon provides, check out Lowes.com as they provide everything, including the manuals online. Makes shopping much easier.

I'll update this if we have any issues, but we've been in our new home for 2 months and so far this range is working perfectly. We've baked cakes, cupcakes, brownies, lasagna, and mac and cheese. Nothing super technical, but they all came out great and it's nice having the space for 2 cakes side by side. The roller racks are also nice. The broiler is very fast, so watch closely. It starts up quickly. I'm used to baking with a gas oven, and prefer the simplicity and reliability of the all gas design to the dual fuel. We have an electric wall over, but I prefer to use this one. On the stove part, the extra low / intermittent burners are nice, but even when they're off for most of the cycle time, they're still pretty hot. They're big burners, so they don't work well with my little bialetti moka espresso pot (4" diameter). I put a cast iron trivet down off to the side and use it over just one point of the star, but it's really wasteful. So while the star burners distribute heat evenly, their larger size does have a downside. I read the other reviews, and one noted the range is noisy. Ours is very quiet and doesn't get as hot on the sides as my sister's Blue something commercial range. We got the 366G, not the 366GH. No vertical back on ours. Another reviewer was claiming that Bosch/Thermador won't stand by their product, but they say they purchased the range "about 2 years ago". It's got a 2 year warranty, so I don't know why they don't specify if it was under warranty. That same person put the identical review up for a completely different range, so I didn't give it a lot of credence. My brother and sister in law have the monster wide version and love it. I think this style of range is a bit silly, but they make a nice focal point for a large or fancy kitchen. Based on everything I read, what the appliance store guys we bought it from said, and what the repair guys said when they came out to fix the broken Dacor range at a beach house we rented, Thermador's gas ranges work better and tend to be more reliable than most of the other comparable options. The GE line was another option we considered. If you don't "need" this style of range though, the top of the line normal looking versions with slightly less heat output are generally less money and more reliable than these commercial style ranges across every brand. 18-January-2017 update. We're still using it almost daily with no reliability issues. We did note one design issue. If you leave the stove door open when broiling, the control knobs get hot enough to burn yourself on after a few minutes. I don't know if that's a design flaw or not, but they cool off very quickly when you close the door, and they don't melt, or haven't yet :)

I bought this fridge 3 months ago and am now at a point to review: PROS: - Attractive - Main fridge is easy to access - Food humidity is better than I've seen with other fridges - Excellent lighting in both freezer and fridge - Nice glass shelves that are easy to clean - Lots of shelves in the main fridge compartment CONS: - The biggest negative for me is the noise. I find the fridge quite loud. Maytag advertises it as being quiet. - The freezer compartment is small. There are 2 slide out drawers, and they fill very quickly. I am unable to determine if I'm saving electricity because I bought this in September and over the past couple of months I've been baking more for Christmas, and using more power than I normally would. By June 2014 I should have a better idea about whether I'm saving money on power. I don't use the ice maker in this fridge. If you were to use the ice maker you would have even less room. I would rather use the ice try for extra freezer storage as I mentioned above the freezer is small in this fridge. I would only recommend this to a friend if that friend did not mind the fridge noise. If the bedrooms and living room are far enough away from the fridge it would not be noticeable. It only comes on periodically, but when it is on I really notice it in my quiet house. 15-Jan-2014 - Sometimes the fridge comes on and it's very quiet. Other times it's noisy. After some more detective work, I determined that it's the freezer compartment fan that makes most of the noise and since the freezer fan does not always come on, it explains why it's quiet when it's on sometimes and noisy other times. 03-Oct-2014 - After a year of living with this fridge I will say that my power consumption went down over the year and it was likely due to this fridge. This fridge replaced the same size fridge that was 17 years old. I find food in the freezer is not prone to freezer burn which was a problem with my old fridge. After 3 weeks foods would be burned in the older fridge. I'm not certain how Maytag remedied this situation. Maybe it's because the freezer is on the bottom. Heat rises. If the freezer is at the bottom maybe it does not come on as much which reduced freezer burn. The noise is still very bothersome. I have never gotten used to the loudness of the fridge. 02-Apr-2015 - The fridge has developed a grinding noise whenever it shuts off. It will come on and the fan has always been noisy, but now there's a terrible rattle-grind that lasts for about 2 seconds. It's annoying and makes me wonder if it's wearing out already. I do not think I would ever buy another Maytag product or Whirlpool/KitchenAid for that matter. No more of this junk will darken the doorway of my house.

We bought this for our Mom who is in her 80's, so simple and efficient operation was important. It was advertised as being quiet, and the spin cycle is amazingly unobtrusive, but it screeches during another part the cycle, which alarmed Mom at first because it sounded like it was having mechanical difficulty (i.e. not the sound of a smoothly operating appliance). Having to go out and buy a special type of detergent was also a thumbs-down (although I understand the reasoning behind it). People may have their distinct favorite brand after several decades of doing laundry, or they may want to use coupons or buy detergent on sale if on a limited income and not be obligated to a higher priced item. One day I came over to did the laundry for Mom. I am fascinated with new technology so I peeked inside the tub mid-cycle trying to see how the odd-looking agitator worked. I was surprised to see barely any water in the tub, and the clothes on top were out of the water. I thought maybe I had forgotten to change the Load Size setting from small to large when I put in the load. Guess what? No setting for load size--it automatically fills so you can't add more water even if you wanted to. Then I noticed actually printed on the machine "It is normal for some of the load to be above the water level". Hello. Last time I checked, you actually have to have clothes IN the water for them to get WASHED and eventually, clean. The machine is advertised as high-volume capacity but what good is that when you can't fill the water up to that capacity? The concept is that the agitator will eventually rotate the clothes on top down into the water, and push the others out of the water. So, I get it, you use only half the amount of water necessary by making the clothes take turns getting in and out of their bath. But....are you really getting the clothes clean swishing them around in half the water, which is twice as dirty? And the clothes are getting washed only half the time that you think they are, because half the time they are waiting their turn to get rotated in? At the end of the cycle, there was just a little bit of detergent residue (using the high efficiency detergent) but the clothes still had dog hair on them. I had to redo the load which of course, negated the energy star effects for both water and electricity. Maybe if you never check the laundry afterward and just throw it into the dryer, you'll land up with more lint because the extra stuff got blown out instead of washed out. I understand you might not get everything out if you have tons of dog hair in there but it's not like she owns a kennel or anything, she has one little 15 pound dog. I have 3 dogs and my Kenmore (that actually uses enough water to wash the load) gets everything fabulously clean. So I think this is an example of a company being so excited about their new technology that they put it into production right away so they could be the first on the market, but actually thought it was not important to test it thoroughly first. What were they thinking? Truthfully, I wouldn't even get this machine it it were at the Goodwill.

WORST WASHER EVER! I AM A 48 YR FEMALE AND THIS IS THE WORST WASHER I HAVE USED OR OWNED. BOUGHT IN 2010 AFTER ONE OF THE GOVT REBATE OFFERS. THOUGHT I MIGHT GET USED TO IT. NOPE. I DO NOT LIKE TO WASTE MONEY AND THIS HAS BEEN A WASTE AND I WILL HAVE TO SPEND MORE MONEY TO BUY A NEW ONE. REASONS I DO NOT LIKE. DOES NOT GET CLOTHES CLEAN. TOWELS SMELL AWFUL AFTER WASH. LIGHT COLOR SHEETS SEEM DIRTIER THAN WHEN THEY WENT IN. LID LOCKS CAN NOT OPEN WITHOUT PRESSING THE UNLOCK. WHEN YOU DO THE MACHINE EMPTIES AND STARTS OVER. CYLCE TAKES A LONG 56 MIN. MANY TIMES THE CLOTHES ARE SO WET I HAVE TO PUT THEM ON THE SPIN CYCLE. WHEN I HAVE OPENED THE WASHER THE CLOTHES ARE PACKED AT THE BOTTOM AND NOT ALL ARE WET - HOW CAN THAT BE CLEANING. REP TOLD ME CAN ONLY FILL 3/4 FULL HOW IS THAT ENERGY EFFICIENT. I AM ALL ABOUT SAVING WATER AND ELECTRICY BUT WHEN YOU HAVE TO WASH THE CLOTHES TWICE HOW IS THAT ENERGY EFFICIENT. I PLAN TO GO BACK TO THE OLD TYPE WASHER THAT HAS AN AGITATOR, FILLS UP WITH WATER AND YOU CAN OPEN THE LID TO ADD A SOCK OR SOMETHING AND USES REGULAR DETERGENT (NOT A HUGE DEAL). ONE THING I HAVE TRIED IS ADDING BAKING SODE LAUNDRY BOOSTER BUT THIS IS AN ADDED EXPENSE AND YOU ARE TO BUY WASHER CLEANER ANOTHER EXPENSE. I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND ANY ONE BUY THIS WASHER (ACTUALLY SAW A LADY IN A STORE AND TRIED TO WARN HER BUT SHE BOUGHT ANYWAY). IT HAS TAKEN FOUR YEARS TO TAKE THE TIME TO GET THE MODEL NUMBER TO WRITE THIS REVIEW. I PLAN TO GO ON EVERY SITE I CAN TO REVIEW AND HOPEFULLY SAVE SOMEONE ELSE THIS SAME MISTAKE. IF ONLY I HAD READ REVIEWS PRIOR TO MY PURCHASE, LESSON LEARNED. MY HUSBAND SAYS TOSS IT AND BUY ANOTHER (HE IS TIRED OF ME COMPLAINING ABOUT IT). WHAT A WASTE OF MONEY BUT THAT IS WHAT I PLAN TO DO. HAVE READ SO MANY SIMILIAR REVIEWS, SAME ISSUES. DON'T BUY THIS WASHER. IT IS NOT THAT IT IS A WHIRLPOOL EITHER IT IS THE ENERGY EFFICIENT PART. I SHOULD STOP NOW BUT COULD GO ON AND ON.....

VERY VERY Unhappy with this item. Shipping very rude and the service to get a refund a bunch of RED TAPE STILL WAITING for refund. I bought set and they would only take back the washer. The matching dryer TAKES TO LONG TO DRY. Since my washer would not work from day 1. I had to go to laundromat to get my clothes wash then take them home just to find out that the matching dryer takes 2 1/2 hours to dry. NO JOKE!!!!!! Since I bought the set I was told by evVive Home that if maytag comes to service it could cost me $500 out of my pocket??? ANd I would have to pay for return shipping over $200 Let's do the math together $500 + $200 out of my pocket for a NEW ITEM and then the amount I paid for the set = $"lost money and a waste of time." Amazon help me file Your Amazon.com A-to-z Guarantee Claim report. Well AMAZON did side with the company and now I HAVE A 150lb dryer as a paper weight. This is the email response that was given to me as of today Wednesday, February 13, 2013 5:41 AM Hello from Amazon.com. We are writing to follow up with you regarding the Guarantee claim that was filed for order. We have checked into the matter and a reimbursement for the full amount of washer was completed on Feb 13th. We have confirmed that the seller who fulfilled this order has a posted returns policy, stating that the item(s) purchased cannot be returned under these circumstances. For your reference, this seller's returns policy states:"You can return your order within 15 days from the purchase date." In response to your claim, the seller who fulfilled this order has declined to accept the return of this dryer. Amazon.com strives to maintain a marketplace that is fair to both buyers and sellers. Since this policy was available for review prior to the date your order was placed, we are unable to compel the seller to accept a return. As a result, your claim has been closed. If this is a defective or damaged item, it is possible that it is under warranty with the manufacturer. We advise that you contact them for assistance. In many cases, they are willing to repair or replace defective products. Thank you for choosing Amazon.com. AGAIN BEWARE OF THIS COMPANY IN SELLING YOU ANYTHING. STILL WAITING FOR REFUND which will not be 100%. If you are reading this and would like to buy a washer / dryer with your tax refund do not buy from this company or Amazon. Your best bet is to go on Craigslist or your closest retail outlet such as Menards, Sams Club etc... I am sure they would refund you 100% or a different model that works. Never again would I buy any appliances from a website. For those who are marking a 100% rating, "must work for the company and just blogging to make you think you are getting a great deal." I am 100% unhappy.

Our LG french door with ice/water dispenser which cost us $2212.00 has been an eye opening experience. We've purchased other LG electronics and had good experiences and thought that this brand was reliable. Our 4 y/o fridge burned out a wire that blew 2 circuit boards in the ice/water dispenser. We paid $427 to replace both circuit boards before they figured out that the wire was burned & we also needed to replace the entire door for another $360. The repair man suggested that I ask LG to foot the bill for the door. LG service refused consider my request because it was out of warranty (the warranty only is 1 year)so I demanded to speak to a supervisor, It was only at this higher level that I finally got them to consider my request. They made me jump through hoops producing the original sales receipt etc and taking over 3 weeks to respond. LG finally conceded and replaced the door but that was only after I told them that I was going to tell everyone i knew not to purchase their appliances. During the 3 weeks i was waiting for LG to make up their minds if they would help me or not, I began speaking with my friends about my experience. I found that almost everyone I spoke to who had an LG appliance that was out of warranty had failure of those appliances and had to replace them. It seems that LG is making their products to last through the warranty and then fail. Refrigerator condensers seem to magically fail only months after the warranty expires. I've spoken to people whose driers failed after only 6 months of use, and my friend with a 3 year old LG dishwasher said it sounded like it would die any second and she couldn't find an appliance repair that would service it when they found out it was an LG. It finally died 6 months later and she has replaced it with a GE. Another friend's LG microwave died a month after the 1 year warranty expired. The lesson here is that although LG appliances will work wonderfully for the first few years you own them, you should expect that soon after your warranty expires you will find that the appliance will fail and you will be footing the bill for costly repairs or replacement. this is not such a big deal if it's a cell phone, but when you are spending $2,200 or more for an appliance you expect it to last longer than 4 years. I now fully expect that the compressor will fail on my refrigerator shortly after it is 7 years old (end of compressor warranty). Even though LG finally did the right thing and replaced the door, It was only after I demanded to speak to a supervisor and demanded that they do something for me. I will never purchase another LG appliance and I'm warning you about this. Before purchasing LG appliances I suggest you talk to everyone you know and learn their experiences. I'm certain that you will begin discovering that many people have had similar experiences as I & my friends have had with LG.

I have only owned this machine for about a week now but it is amazing!!! Yes, the washing times are longer than a normal washer but the spin cycle is so damn fast it only takes about 15 minutes to dry even my heavy clothes. You can't imagine how fast this thing spins until you see it in action - 1,400 RPMs!!! It also uses very, very little water which is kind of alarming at first and you have to use "high efficiency" detergent. I love my machine so far and I have not had any balance problems. I bought it at the Sears outlet store and saved a ton of money over brand new so I was also able to afford a 3-year warranty and it was still cheaper than new. I washed two king-sized blankets at the same time and there was no problem. If you use the heavy soil mode, yes, the wash cycle can be two hours or more but if you use the "Normal" mode, it is 59 minutes. It is also crazy quiet, you can barely hear it and even when the spin cycle is going like crazy, you can put your hand on the machine and just barely feel any movement. So far I love, love, love this machine! UPDATE ON 9/4/13. I am no longer thrilled with this machine. As you might have read, front-load washers start to stink after a while and they make your clothes smell like rotten sewer water. This is not a problem with the whites as you can use bleach but on colored loads, they can start to smell really bad after a while. You can buy those washing machine cleaner tabs which I think are just concentrated bleach tabs and they are expensive too. My old machine was not as big but I never had a problem with smelly clothes. Would I buy this machine again? NO. I wish I would have known the problems with the smell build-up. Also, the front glass of the machine has so much buildup on it, you can hardly see through it anymore. Furthermore, if you have dogs/cats, the drainage holes in the front of the tub get clogged up with hair so bad that they won't drain. I am constantly digging my fingers in the holes to try to unplug them which is totally nasty and a very bad design flaw. Otherwise, if you don't clean them out, you will get about two inches of water and hair and gunk sitting in the front part of the machine and that also gets very smelly and yucky too. I can't imagine Maytag would not have tested this in a lab but maybe they did not think of using these machines on pet hair. I would imagine that at least 2/3 of the country has a cat or dog so this machine is really not good in that capacity. I am actually wanting to sell it and buy a large capacity top-loader. I just don't like this design and all of the flaws - my old top-loader though not as big did not have any problems and did not make your clothes stink nor did it ever clog up with hair and not drain. All-in-all, very, very disappointed with this machine and Maytag in general. Sigh.

Our 17 year old 24" GE wall oven/microwave had a catastrophic failure and new parts are no longer available. I chose this 27" wall oven/microwave because: 1-It would fit in the old kitchen cabinet with some modification, 2-Electrolux is a good brand, 3-The reviews (although only a few) are good, 4-The price was very good, 5-Free shipping. This unit weighs 250 pounds so requires at least two people to put it in place (I had to widen the old cabinet opening and expand it by lowering the bottom of the compartment about 3"). I got it installed a few days before Thanksgiving so wanted it use it to roast our turkey using the "Perfect Turkey" setting. We baked a cake first to make sure everything was working properly. The turkey should have taken about 3 hours but it stopped cooking after about an hour-and-a-half. We continued to cook the turkey on the regular roast mode. When I eventually carved the turkey I discovered the problem. When I inserted the probe I was careful but the tip of the probe went all the way through the meat and just into the cavity where the stuffing was. The probe measures temperature and stops the cooking when 180 degrees is reached. The stuffing got hotter sooner so the cooking stopped sooner. The lesson, make sure the probe is inserted properly so that the tip is in the thickest part of the meat and isn't touching bone or in an area of fat. The probe should in only as far as necessary so that the tip of the probe is at the thickest part of the meat. The location of the tip of the probe is critical. You may want to try cooking a roast before you try the "perfect turkey" setting because it would be easier to place the probe properly in a roast. The oven itself was well packed but tape residue was left on surface. I sprayed WD-40 on a soft paper towel and the residue came right off. Of course this left an oil film that had to be removed with a mild solution of soap and water on a soft paper towel. All of the labels on the doors peeled off easily except one. I had to use a painters/window washers blade to gently remove that large label. I got the scraper, which uses a one-sided razor blade, in the paint section of Walmart for about $3. The microwave works well but a jet of air blows out the front while cooking and for about two minutes after it finishes. This is somewhat annoying since it blows in your face or hair and is rather loud. Nonetheless, we are happy with this product. It is stylish, has advanced electronic controls, works well and is a great replacement for the old oven. Anything larger than 27" would have required a larger cabinet and major changes to adjacent cabinets and counter-tops. I'll do an update if I discover any new issues or features. Oh, it appears that this model is no longer being produced but there is a similar 30" model which wouldn't fit in our old cabinet.

I have a cheap second refrigerator in my garage; it's branded "Costco by Whirlpool" and built in 1999 in Mexico. Recently the refrigerator compartment wasn't cooling... spoiled milk was the first clue. This was in spite of the fact that the freezer compartment was fine. I knew that if the compressor was bad it probably wouldn't be worth repairing this old fridge BUT it probably was OK since the freezer was working. Given the age of the refrigerator I was reluctant to call out a repairman when the meter is at $75-100 when they first show up. So I Googled "Whirlpool refrigerator not cooling" to see if I could get any hint as to whether or not it was liable to be a big problem. MUCH to my surprise I found a lot of really useful information including several very helpful UTube tutorials. These videos provided trouble-shooting tips and detailed disassembly instructions.... once I opened up the freezer compartment (not at all difficult) it was clear from the hidden ice buildup that the defrost cycle wasn't working and that the ice was blocking cold air from the refrigerator compartment. Several of these videos pointed to the automatic defrost system as the likely culprit and specifically to this defrost thermostat. One even showed a test procedure to verify whether the defrost thermostat was faulty (involves a multi-meter and a glass of ice water, but a AA battery and a flashlight bulb would have worked). Sure enough it looked bad (and failed the test) so I went to the local supply houses to find one. They had generics in stock but those lack the clip on feature. The delay for the clip-on part was 4 four days and the cost was $35.... I could have gotten it just as fast and much cheaper through Amazon. The only "skill" required was stripping the wires and applying wire nuts and electricians' tape (see UTube for detailed how-to). While I was in there I noticed the fan motor was wobbly and somewhat sticky and thus seemed likely to fail soon. This fan was $65 from my local suppliers so I ordered this guy<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/Whirlpool-Part-Number-2197381-Evaporator-Fan-Motor/dp/B0050KKZ96/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">Whirlpool Part Number 2197381: Evaporator Fan Motor</a>&nbsp;from Amazon for about half that. It was easy to install with my newly-found expertise at removing the freezer parts and fit perfectly... probably a 15-minute chore to replace and it works without wobbling and is very smooth turning. Everything good except my worrying... why worry? The vendor delivered the part to UPS within 24 hours of my order but the UPS tracking system said it was going to take 16 DAYS to get here.... from CA to WA!! I kept checking and the UPSs system kept reporting 16 days. It actually showed up in 5 days (three working days) which is normal UPS Ground from California, so it was all about faulty UPS reporting, not any actual service problem, but if you were waiting for it to repair our main refrigerator, it could cause some stress.

We got this on sale at Best Buy at $1,198 including home delivery. I would say even at $1398 which seems to be the average non-discounted price, we will still buy it. If you are looking for an inexpensive french door fridge, this is the ticket. Although it's the cheapest among the french door units out there, this fridge does not skimp on functionalities. PROS: - GREAT LOOKING - the stainless steel version we got is beautiful. Fit and finish is nice. Better than a high end GE Profile one we had in our old house. - Spacious - both top and bottom section have lots of room - The French Door provide very wide and open access to the fridge section - The Top Drawer in the Bottom Freezer has wheels/gears on it which makes it easier & smoother to roll in and out. Some older Maytag/Whirlpool/Kitchenaid models do not have this and are much harder to open/close. Those older units are simply just rails on slots. My in-laws has a higher end Kitchenaid and their top drawer in the bottom freeze are really difficult to operate. - Feature Rich: Even it is the most inexpensive french door among all brands, it does not skimp on features: water/ice dispenser, humidity control, outside temp display/control, etc. - The water filter is very high capacity (someone told me 750 gallons). The flow rate is great, much better than the older Maytag Plus that it replaced. - The water dispense looks great. The lights are LED and have a blueish tint. Looks very cool! - Tall bottles go into both left and right door shelves CONS: - The stainless steel seems easy to dent. The delivery guys leaned the fridge on the counter just a bit, and it resulted in a small dent. However, Maytag was great and they are sending a replacement door and a service man has followed up already to arrange the installation - Be careful catching the ice. The ice cubes easily escape the cup. There is a certain technique to it but we trained ourselves quickly. SURPRISE: - Fridge magnets still work! We thought magnets doesn't work on stainless steel but they seem to still work on this fridge's front doors. That is great! Note that the surface is still definitely stainless steel and not "stainless look" like the LG. I have no idea why the fridge magnet works. May be they just have a think shell of stainless steel over metal... But, this is a big plus for me. I was actually researching how to stick pictures and stuff on stainless fridge, and now I don't need such solution. Reliability: - We did tons of research and found that this fridge model has a lot of great reviews on a site call viewpoints.com. - The primary alternative at this price range would be the LG and Samsung french doors. Both are around $1400-1500 and neither one includes gas dispenser. The LG reviews are horrible and it has poor reliability records. The Samsung is more expensive with no water/ice dispenser.

We got this on sale at Best Buy at $1,198 including home delivery. I would say even at $1398, we might still get it. If you are looking for an inexpensive french door fridge, this is the ticket. Although it's the cheapest among the french door units out there, this fridge does not skimp on functionalities. PROS: - GREAT LOOKING - the stainless steel is beautiful. Fit and finish is superb. Better than a high end GE Profile one we had in our old house. - Spacious - both top and bottom section have lots of room - The French Door provide very wide and open access to the fridge section - The Top Drawer in the Bottom Freezer has wheels/gears on it which makes it easier & smoother to roll in and out. Some older Maytag/Whirlpool/Kitchenaid models do not have this and are much harder to open/close. Those older units are simply just rails on slots. My in-laws has a higher end Kitchenaid and their top drawer in the bottom freeze are really difficult to operate. - Feature Rich: Even it is the most inexpensive french door among all brands, it does not skimp on features: water/ice dispenser, humidity control, outside temp display/control, etc. - The water filter is very high capacity (someone told me 750 gallons). The flow rate is great, much better than the older Maytag Plus that it replaced. - The water dispense looks great. The lights are LED and have a blueish tint. Looks very cool! - Tall bottles go into both left and right door shelves CONS: - The stainless steel seems easy to dent. The delivery guys leaned the fridge on the counter just a bit, and it resulted in a small dent. However, Maytag was great and they are sending a replacement door and a service person has followed up already to arrange the installation - Be careful catching the ice. The ice cubes easily escape the cup. There is a certain technique to it but we trained ourselves quickly. SURPRISE: - Fridge magnets still work! We thought magnets doesn't work on stainless steel but they seem to still work on this fridge's front doors. That is great! Note that the surface is still definitely stainless steel and not "stainless look" like the cheaper version of Samsung (Samsung offers both "Stainless Look" and "True Stainless Steel"). I have no idea why the fridge magnet works. May be they just have a thin shell of stainless steel over metal... But, this is a big plus for me. I was actually researching how to stick pictures and stuff on stainless fridge, and now I don't need such solution. Reliability: - We did tons of research and found that this fridge model has a lot of great reviews on a site call viewpoints.com. - The primary alternative at this price range would be the LG and Samsung french doors. Both are around $1400-1500 and neither one includes water/ice dispenser. The LG reviews are horrible and it has poor reliability records. The Samsung is more expensive and has the ice dispenser in the freezer which takes up valuable freezer space (I'd rather give up on fridge space rather than freezer space myself).

I purchased a Bosch Ascenta dishwasher in February 2013 to replace a 12 year old Maytag that worked just fine but was falling apart. I did a lot of research and Bosch came out on top with rave reviews from all the lead consumer boards. That said, I eagerly awaited the day the eyesore of a beat up Maytag would be replaced with a state of the art shiny new Bosch. What a let down I had when the first thing I noticed is that this dishwasher is so slim it doesn't fill out the space in my counter cabinets. Apparently the installer knows this because he came prepared with some cheap plastic strips that he placed in the space to fill out the gaps. So with the first blow of my new investment looking cheesy I kept my chin up and looked forward to new racks with no rust and sparkling clean dishes. Well, needless to say I was less then impressed with the cleaning power of this supposed super cleaning machine. IN fact they are no cleaner then my 12 year old Maytag. Not only are they marginally clean but they are always wet when I open the door. Where is the steam? or even the heat for that matter? It's always damp inside and smells bad in between washings because apparently there is no ventilation holes. Quiet? Not really, I can hear it. But honestly dishwasher noise was never an issue as I don't hang around my kitchen all night after I fire it up. I mean who really cares about noise? Aren't people sick of being in the kitchen after cooking, serving, eating, cleaning? I finally called to see maybe it was me, maybe I missed something or have to adjust something. What I was told it that, I need to empty it right away or the water that doesn't evaporate because their is no ventilation settles back on the dishes. OK I tried that. I awaited anxiously for my wash to complete and eagerly opened the door hoping I would have a blast of sanitizing steam and dry dishes. Nope! All I had was soggy dishes. As far as saving money? Maybe, if I didn't have to buy the most expensive cleaning bricks and rinsing agents and run it every single day for fear of mold growing. I wish I bought something else. So I do NOT recommend this item.. UPDATE, Machine is still is horrible! It's impossible to load because its designed for dessert plates. Don't even try to put a bowl in it, there is no slot for it, You have to put it sideways in the neutral space between the slots, which are going in all different directions!! The silverware holder flies out while your unloading because it doesn't "nest" in, and your glasses better be elfin size because the top rack is a series of very narrow rows of weirdly shaped prongs. It;s leaving a worst residue as the months go on, it doesn't matter what detergent or rinse you use, it all has to be soaked off after and hand dried. My son rarely will use knives, because he said they are always dirty and it grosses him out. I didn't notice because i don't eat with my glasses on and I am about blind close up. I imagine the quietness, which seems to be the only plus to it, is because it has no water pressure and this is why nothing gets clean.

When my old dishwasher stopped working, we needed a replacement... quick! We were in the market for a mid-range dishwasher that would get the job done. I let my husband go to the appliance store alone, with a list of possible options (Whirlpool, Frigidaire... and one Bosch, since I had heard good things). This one was not on the list, but the saleslady must have done a good job convincing the DH because this is what we got. I have hated it from the beginning. Why do I hate it so? Let me count the ways: 1. The inside is VERY poorly designed! The bottom of the top rack is not flat, so cups tip over during the cycle and fill with dirty water. Gross. 2. The inside is VERY poorly designed! The pegs on the bottom rack are spaced very strangely. I cannot put two rows of dishes (small and large) next to each other because there isn't enough room. They just don't fit! 3. The inside is VERY poorly designed! Some of the pegs are so close together that I don't feel the dishes get cleaned very well, so I have to space the dishes out more to get them cleaner. 4. The inside is VERY poorly designed! There is no good place to put the silverware holder. If I put it along the side, I lose a row of pegs for dishes. If I put it along the back, I lose a row of pegs for dishes. 5. I can only fit one pot/pan on the bottom if I am washing dishes, too. No matter how I try to rearrange the dishes, there just doesn't seem to be enough room to make things fit. 6. I don't know if it's the poor design of the racks or if it is truly smaller on the inside, but this dishwasher washes much smaller loads than my last two dishwashers. I need to run it twice as many times as my old ones in order to do the same amount of dishes. 7. Because I am constantly washing smaller loads of dishes, this machine is costing me more $$$ in water and detergent! 8. Since I can't get all the dishes from one meal to fit in a load, my sink is constantly filled with more dirty dishes waiting for their turn to be washed. Ugh. 9. I hate the buttons and the flashing lights! If you don't actually press the on/off button before opening the dishwasher after running a load, the lights will blink... and blink... and blink... until you do. 10. This dishwasher is the worst one I have ever owned! I secretly hope it will break so I can toss it into the dumpster where it belongs and get myself a decent dishwasher!!! I cannot think of one positive thing to say about this dishwasher. It really is terrible. We are a family of four, not using a ton of dishes, and this thing is awful. I would not recommend it to anyone!

This is a difficult review to write since we would give the design and concept of this range five (5) stars easily. We have had several problems with this range from the original problem of the burners not firing properly to the bottom oven shorting the entire unit (it is LP gas) out and, most importantly BOTH ovens unable to be calibrated so we can get a consistent temperature. The burners were fixed by the GE appointed repair agency to our satisfaction. After talking to thats agency, we learned that the shorting was a common problem caused by the gauge of metal in the bottom of the bottom oven being too thin so that when it heated, it sagged onto the igniter, shorting the whole oven out and tripping the circuit breaker. The calibration of the ovens is the most vital problem since we make all our own bread and cook extensively. We will, for example, set the oven for 350 F and when it signals "temperature reached" we put our item in. 10 minutes later, the oven is at 425 F so we slightly adjust the temp downward, only to have it go to 250 F in 10-20 minutes. This is the case in both ovens. If we could have a consistent "incorrect" temp, we could possibly adjust for that but with no consistency, that is impossible. We have purchased 4 thermometers to check the temperature of the oven - one an expensive but accurate mercury one. We purchased the oven in 2015 so it is out of warranty. In calling GE, the rep I first talked to gave all sorts of help, including her extension to call once I found out the parts that might be needed once their appointed repair agency reviewed the situation. He knew what the problem was and gave me part numbers so I called my "contact". I got voice mail stating that she was unavailable but would respond to my message within 24 hours. I have left 4 messages for her with no response. Finally I was able to reach another rep and now she tells me I am going to have to pay a discounted price for the safety issue (breaker tripping) and labor for the calibration. Additionally, the GE rep stated that they have no record of me returning calls. First, it is hard to return a call when you are put on hold for (in one case) an hour and 26 minutes and in many other cases up to 45 minutes. To then be told that I didn't call them or return their call is tremendously irksome. At one point they called me to say they would be taking this case off their active file if they didn't hear from me. Here again, after a long wait, I could only leave a message telling them not to do so since I was waiting to talk to my contact (OR ANYONE) to give them the information I had gotten from the repair agency. I really have wanted to get this taken care of easily but it now appears I will have to go through our State Consumer Protection Division of the AG's office since this clearly qualifies under the Maine Lemon Law. It could have been so much easier! So, the design of the oven is fantastic and if we can get it fixed it will be great. THE ONE STAR IS FRANKLY FOR GE'S LACK OF CUSTOMER SERVICE!

I purchased this range from a local brick and mortar store and I love it, so far. It has a solid, high quality, updated but traditional look and feel that won't go out of style. It may sound silly, but the big, smooth, heavy metal knobs make a difference to me. This range has a couple of features that some similar "non-backsplash", freestanding units don't have. It has a stainless trim around the cooktop, so the unit snugs up to the countertop without overlapping, making it simpler to install. In addition, many of the freestanding units vent oven air out the front of the unit. I read that some customers felt a strong gust of air blowing on them, while cooking. This range vents UPward from the back of the cooktop, so exhaust gets pulled away by our range hood fan. I love the high wattage, extra-large burner in front, which can be used as a medium sized burner as well. Another medium on the other side, a variety of sizes in back and the 5th burner cooks as well as warms. I also love the baking drawer. There is one medium wattage element in the baking drawer, so it requires a longer preheat time, but as long as I remember to turn it on about a half hour before I want to bake some potatoes or a casserole, it does a great job. The larger oven preheats quickly and has many racks for cookies. So far, we used convection to evenly and quickly cook meatloaf and cookies. We have experienced a couple of minor snafu's. The first scheduled delivery, the unit had a medium size dent and had to be sent back. The second delivery went smoothly, but after the delivery guys left, I noted a very small bend and unpainted section (small like 1/4" x 1/4" triangle shaped section) on the inside section of one of the exhaust holes. I probably could have requested a new unit, but frankly I didn't want the hassle. I called the store and they scheduled a service visit. GE Service carefully straightened the slight bend and ordered some heat resistant touch up paint. As a backup, they also ordered a replacement part for the section of metal that includes the unpainted area. Replacing the part seems like overkill, however, since you need a flashlight and to squint your eyes to see the spot. My only concern is rust (over the years). The paint should take care of that. They have scheduled a followup visit when the parts come in and indicated that I can choose to have them replace the part if I'm concerned that the touch up paint does not look ok. So, I'm very satisfied with their response. This unit does not have a "hidden element" in the oven, as some ovens on the market do; easier for cleaning. I also would have liked a split oven rack and perhaps a rack with ball bearings, but these are minor issues. I left a star off only because quality control might need improvement. If our unit arrived without any flaws, I would have given it 5 stars.

I don't understand all the negative reviews here. When I bought my Cabrio about 5 1/2 years ago, it was one of the highest rated machines by Consumer Reports. I don't always agree with or go by their ratings in some things, and they can overlook problems, but they seem to have a pretty good testing system for washing machines. As mentioned, I've had it about 5 1/2 years, and I have not had a single repair problem, although I only need to do laundry about once a week. I usually use it set on Normal, but I may try Casual now, as one reviewer mentioned it gives it more water. However too little water has not been a problem. I have a white machine with a clear top, so I have watched the mechanism in action as it's washing clothes, and even in the Normal setting it does wet and rotate clothes in the wash. At first I didn't realize it needed HE detergent, but no harm was done and once I switched to HE detergent the clothes seemed even cleaner, about as clean as with an old Kenmore with a traditional agitator used in my previous residence. It seems like the agitation used in cabrio is gentler on the clothes, from observation of the action and perceived wear to my garments. More recently I started adding non-chlorine bleach (hydrogen peroxide). I always run the extra rinse cycle, just to make sure the detergent is rinsed out completely--I did that with my previous machine and would do that no matter what machine I used. I thought the washer may have been eating some socks, as I was missing about 4 or 5 mates, but I recently found several, including one long-lost one, so it wasn't the machine. I don't know if most modern machines have this, but I like the load balancing mechanism--I assume that's what it is--which gives the load a few spins at first, stops the drum short, and a balancing weight slides into position. If there are too many clothes, at some point in the wash cycle the machine stops, drains the water, shuts itself off and gives its shut-off beeps. The LCD screen reads Lo, which means overload, so you need to take out one or more pieces of clothes and start the wash over with more detergent (it shuts off before the bleach is added, so that doesn't need to be replenished). This only happened for the first time in the last year, and only a few times. I think most of the problems people have with the machine (I can't speak to repair problems, as I've never had any), is that they are not used to the agitation mechanism and wash action, expecting it to fill the tub, and don't understand it. When Consumer Reports did one of their wash tests, which is to leave the clothes in the washer, for a period of days, I think, to see if any mold or odors developed, the Cabrio did fine in that regard, an indication it was thoroughly cleaning the clothes, and I have never experienced any odors in the machine. PS My model, being from 2009, may be a little different than the ones reviewed here, as someone mentioned a Sanitize setting, which mine doesn't have, but I believe it's basically the same model, 4.6 cu. ft., stainless steel drum, clear top, etc.

JUNE 2013 Bought the Cabrio WED8600YW2 from a local small business which only sells Whirlpool products, as 25 years ago we bought mainly Whirlpool appliances, with no complaints. My oh my, how time changes things. This machine does NOT clean your clothes, unless you put it on the heavy soiled option or the heavy duty cycle. You can choose whether to wash a small to medium load without much work to get them into the dryer OR do a large load, but be prepared to spend time getting your clothes from the 'washer' to the dryer. The clothes end up twisted and knotted together, which leaves hundreds of wrinkles. We are big fans of Downy wrinkle release, just remember to spray all your clothes before putting them in the dryer and they usually come out wrinkle free, whether they are clean or not. And that brings me to another choice you get to make. Do you want to buy new clothes within a short time frame OR wear clothes with stains on them. The normal cycle does not clean and if you wash on heavy duty or soiled options, your clothes will show very noticable wear within one or two wash cycles. Whirlpool made a big mistake putting a see through lid. After numerous loads of clothes coming out with spots, I decided to watch the cycle. I am 49 years old and have never felt the need to stand by the washer while it was 'suppose' to be washing clothes. There is hardly enough water to get the clothes wet, the 'cleaning' action is nothing more than your clothes getting tightly wound together and then the wash plate motion takes your ring of knotted clothes and moves them vigorously against each other. The clothes would show less wear if I beat them on a rock AND they probably would be cleaner. A comparison would be taking six t-shirts put in a five gallon bucket, pour about 2 cups of water on them with a couple drops of soap, then take your hand beater/blender from your kitchen and spin back and forth, back and forth, while occasionally adding another half-cup of water for 40 minutes. They may actually come out cleaner with less wear. I am not even going to say a word about the 'rinse'. The bottom line is that this is NOT a washing machine. This washer is getting out of this house within the next two weeks, our local businessman is buying it back, of course there is a $250 loss, but I would spend more than that replacing dirty worn out clothes and would like to avoid some of the costly repairs that I've read about that needed to be done within the first two years. And I don't need a technician showing me how to use a washer, which was an option offered to me. Where oh where did Whirlpool's quality go? .... right down the drain with the clean water.. because the dirt is still in your clothes!

Pros: 1. This cooktop generally performs well. 2. Look like a high tech and restaurant style cooktop when installed 2. The electronic igniters do a good job on repeatedly lighting the flames, with consistency and regulating the flames. 3. LED lights illuminate the base of each control knob when the flame for a burner is on. This is a nice feature to let you know if any of the burners are on. Cons: 1. The thickness of the stainless steel base is not very thick and does not appear to have the hardness, required to resist scratches and dents that come from general cleaning with scourers and dropping the occasional kitchen implements. Also, the cast iron grates do not have any protection on their footings to protect the stainless steel base from being scratched when removed and replaced for cleaning. It is impossible to keep the stainless base from scratching and maintaining a clean pristine finish. The cooktop looked aged within a 3 months of use. An enormous disappointment. 2. The controls all had different degrees of play and resistance. Some would turn very easily, other had a high level of resistance. Also, most of them had up to 0.5cm of loose play from their central spindle. The extent of play got worse with daily use. This gave the impression that handles were fragile and constructed of poor quality. 3. The numbering and lettering for the flame control is of a small font size and not easy to read if you have poor eyesight. More disappointing was the ease by which the numbering and lettering eventually disappointed with customary cleaning. 4. The cast iron grates sit too high above the burners, causing a significant time for cooking pans to reach temperature. The burners were never able to achieve the high temperatures needed to sear meats or make stir fries. Getting 1 gallon pot of water took over 7 minutes and it took almost 15 minutes to return to boiling, after pasta was added. 5. The flat cast iron griddle is a great idea, but it is impossible to swap it in and out on a regular basis without scratching the stainless steel base. The cast iron griddle had recess on one side that was intended to collect drippings and juices from the food for cooking. The recess was insufficiently deep to collect the juices and would easily overflow. Also, the griddle did not have a sufficient gradient to force the flow of juices into the recess. The height above the flame and thickness of the flat cast iron griddle caused the griddle to take a long to heat up and would never reach to necessary temperature to sear steaks 6. The LED illumination of each control knob is of insufficient intensity to be useful. The illumination is difficult to see under the lights of a rangehood and from a distance. Overall: I ranked this cooktop with the lowest possible rating and is a significant disappointment, relative to its premium price. This cooktop is constructed with poor quality materials, fragile, cannot withstand even the mildest of wear that comes with general use, and does not achieve the necessary temperatures for cooking.

The appearance of this range is very upscale. Not just "professional looking", but obviously built to higher standards than lower-end models. Looks fantastic in the kitchen. This is a mid-level range, with features placing it in the top of that category. We've been using it every day for 3 months now. The oversized oven window was one of my must-have features. It's very nice, indeed - but the tinted glass and dim interior lighting hampers your visibility somewhat. Perhaps a brighter light bulb will help. The 5-element cooktop is perfect for family use. Warming element works great, we use it often. Quick-boil feature definitely heats faster than the other burners, and works really well with small-to-medium size pans/pots. Large pots of boiling water still take awhile, but no worse than a coil-element burner. Elements heat fast, controls are precise. Those familiar with smoothtops will be right at home. Small scratches aren't noticable from a distance, and it usually takes no more than a few minutes for routine cleaning. We still prefer the old salt-and-pepper surface, but this black version cleans up just as easily. It's unforgiving with dust particles, but this doesn't affect cooking performance or require special cleaning. The oven is fantastic. Control panel looks a bit daunting, but the basic controls are straightforward. We mastered the layout and display very quickly. The oven status graphic is very useful. Touch controls are smooth, alert beeps are effective without being annoying. Very well designed. The brushed stainless console is easy to clean, a spritz of Windex is all we need for most splatters. The cooktop knobs are very easy to clean, and won't discolor like plastic. Baking and roasting times are noticably faster. Preheating is fairly quick, but doesn't seem any faster than our old gas oven. The fan is acceptably quiet - puts out a steady humming sound that's neither loud nor obnoxious. Browning ability (ie; a roast) is superb - nice bark on top with even browning - including the bottom. Several features are available for baking/roasting, all helping to insure good results. Everything we've turned out so far has been nearly perfect. Temperature probe and automatic keep-warm work as advertised, and are very useful for daily cooking. We've had 3 self-cleaning ranges over the last 27 years, and this one beats 'em all. While experimenting with the broiler, I created a MAJOR greasy mess that covered the cavity and racks. By the time smoke began to pour out, the grease was hopelessly baked on. I did my best to clean up that mess, but it was a lost cause. Didn't expect much from self-clean, but 4 hours later I couldn't believe my eyes. It was sparkling! I did have to soak/scrub the racks, but the oven interior was like brand new. Very, very impressive. We feel we got our money's worth. If it proves as durable as professional-grade, this is one sweet bargain. UPDATE 7/19/17: After 2.5 years of constant use, still looks and cooks like new. Solid choice.

I wrote this review for the AWN542 - same machine with a slightly different model number. Before I review this machine, I want to emphasize that you MUST wipe out the inside of the stainless steel tub when you first get your machine. The tub is coated with a greasy, dusty film that must be wiped off with a spray cleanser/ degreaser and a cloth or paper towel. It took me about 10 minutes before I got the inside of my machine clean. This coating is quite substantial and will not wash off with normal running of the machine. This is mentioned in both the installation manual and the user's manual. (Similarly, the installers ran the matching dryer for 30 minutes to burn off a similar factory coating.) I wonder if some of the writers of the poor reviews had problems because the users did not wipe off this coating. We just bought the AWN542 along with its matching dryer at our local independent appliance store. We replaced a set of 20 year old Maytags that had served us well but once the dryer started screeching, we decided to replace them instead of repairing them. I wanted to avoid the fancy front loading machines because of all the complaints I have heard over the years. We looked at simple looking Maytags, Amanas, Whirlpools, etc. but they all looked cheaply made and do have some computerized components that can fail. The higher end machines seemed overly complicated and would have cost at least twice as much as the Speed Queens. The salesman at the independent appliance store recommended the Speed Queens. At first, I was skeptical. The Speed Queens looked like the lower end machines to me at first. They are very Plain Jane but my husband was immediately impressed by how much better built they were than the somewhat lower priced Maytags, etc. So we went home to do some research on Speed Queen. We were happy to find so many positive reviews and that they were made in Wisconsin with absolutely no computer boards. As far as I know, there is nothing comparable available for consumers in the United States. We returned to the store an hour later and bought the AWN542 and matching dryer on the spot. We felt the Speed Queen washer and dryer set were moderately priced - somewhat higher than the low end Whirlpool clones but much less than high end front loaders. I could repeat all the other positive comments. Nice, simple straightforward washing machine that gets clothes clean. There are plenty of options to choose water level, cycle, extra rinse. Nothing fancy or complicated. I have already washed delicates, towels, heavy canvas pants, coats, a large comforter. Everything came out beautifully. I think the extra large water level is fine. I don't feel the need to overload the machine. The only thing I might complain about is that the knobs look sort of dumpy at first. They could use a good industrial designer to make them a little more attractive. But they are growing on me. The knobs are actually very sturdy and functional. The black lettering on the plain white is very clear and easy to read so the complaint about the look of the knobs is very superficial and silly.

This was, again, part of a complete kitchen remodel and so far, we've been very happy with it. The unit is made by Dacor and is fairly pricy for what it is, but it was the only unit that fit exactly what we needed and it works! We have a GE gas stove in an island in our new kitchen and didn't want to cut a big hole in our roof for an overhead vent which would have also dominated everything so I spent many hours searching for a downdraft solution and this was it. Now the first thing you might say is that "Hey, don't these only work with cook tops and not conventional ranges?". Well, we heard plenty of that but I'm not one who says "I can't" but one who says "How can I?". In general, most pop-up downdraft units do only work with a cook top but that is because the fan is located on the front of the unit making it impossible to place it close to the back of a range. This unit, however, can be used with a remote blower and has a relatively flat front so it can be placed close enough to the back of the range. Along with this I also bought Dacor's remote 1200cfm blower which works great. It really sucks and I mean that in a good way! Also, unlike most other pop-up downdraft vents (including other Dacor models), this vent rises to a full 15" above the counter top. This is important for being able to pull in fumes/steam over pots and pans and to not interfere with the operation of the gas jets of the stove. This has been a problem for Jenn-Air units and has caused many people to dislike downdraft vents. I will say that it works better for pots/pans that are directly in front of the vent but will also work to and extent with pots/pans on the front burners too. My favorite thing is watching it slowly rise up from the counter and then turn on the blower when it reaches full height. It makes it fun to show off.... haha. With all of that said, this isn't an inexpensive solution to venting a stove on an island, but then again, neither is having a contractor cut a hole in the roof that may or may not get sealed properly. Also, I had the means to cut a strip of stainless steel to fill the gap between the back of the stove and the front of the vent (about 2 1/4" wide). We have a crawl space under the house that allowed me to run the ductwork there so if you don't have that available, this option would not work for you. Dacor does sell a range that actually goes with this vent, but we preferred the features of the GE over the Dacor so it was good to know that we could make this work. I was able to do a lot of the work myself which wasn't easy but possible so if anyone has questions on our installation, I would be happy to answer them. I recommend this product.

January 10, 2014, 8:31 A.M. Note this Unit was installed on 6-29-2013. It replaced a similar Maytag D.W. ( with similar features ) that was used for seven years at the same location. I also checked the lower spray wash spinner that is included in one of the pictures and it was working. On 1-8-2014, I ran the Lemi Shine thru the dishwasher on the heavy cycle ( D.W. was empty ) . I added one package of the Lemi Shine in the bottom of the dishwasher per instructions. I noticed that the water was about to be discharged so I disconnected the hose at the disposal and collected it into a 5 gal pail. So I added another package of the Lemi S. and added back the first batch. I then waited 1 hour to let the solution remain on the bottom. I had noticed that the water level was very low and there was very little spray action during the prewash cycle. I concluded that I might be short of wash water, so I added more water to bring the level to the maximum level at the door without spilling over. I cycled on Heavy Duty Cycle and each time the water drained out into the bucket I re-added it to the dishwasher over a two time hour period. Today, 1-9-2014 A.M., I just cycled the washer thru the Quick Cycle ( no additives, just plain city water ). I noted the amount of water that was discharged after the first wash cycle. I collected in and it is in the 2 liter green full bottle and 24 oz. clear half full bottles, in the picture. (Sorry, I could not down load at this time, I will try again at a later time) So altogether about 80 ounces of liquid. I also have the water that I used with the Lemi Shine in the labeled two gallon bottles, a little less than 2 gallons. I had poured some of the solution back into the dishwasher to soak over night. I did notice that even going thru the Quick Wash Cycle with no detergent that I was still getting a lot of bubbles and foam. Apparently the water was still cleaning out the pump and water lines in the dishwasher. I am not sure how the dishwasher will perform after the next regular washing cycle. We pre-wash by hand all dishes and rinse them prior to loading them in the washer. We do not add any soiled dishes or place settings to compound the washing cycle. Note this Unit was installed on 6-29-2013. It replaced a similar Maytag D.W. that was used for seven years at the same location. Note: I am a retired manufacturing engineer and write reviews often that appear on Amazon.com and other web sites. I will update this review in the near future. I hope that my reviews help out others making purchasing decisions. Thank you.

"Overfill Protection: Do-It-Yourself Guide to Correcting Possible Overfill Condition" This is the PDF that Asko will email you when you call about why the drain motor in your Asko dishwasher won't stop. It's not model specific, it's for Asko dishwashers in general. * Google "Asko drain keeps running" or something like that and read the forums to verify the following: Even though the dishwasher appears to work properly and drain normally, Asko somehow routes "overfill" water as they call it, beneath the washing compartment to a "pan" in the cabinet base. When too much water accumulates, the drain motor just keeps running. IT DOES NOTHING to empty the "overfill" water, it just keeps running until guess who drains it. "Why doesn't the pump drain the overfill water as well as the "normal" water?", you may ask. As with computer software, per Asko it is a feature, not a bug. Here's my experience, but check other forums to validate how common this problem is: * Lay down on the floor and remove the kick plate. Then use your right angle Torx wrenches to remove the "protection" plate - right angle because some screws face upward and a standard Torx driver will be too long. * The PDF says use a sponge or towel to absorb the water. A towel would never fit under my Asko dishwasher. The largest opening I could find is partially blocked by the front cabinet support leg and a cable to the rear which adjusts the rear height. I could just barely push a small sponge through with a spatula, push down on the sponge with the spatula to soak up water and then pull out the sponge with the spatula. Squeeze and repeat. I did this about two dozen times. It is just as much fun as it sounds. I decided not to replace the "protection" plate as I did not wish to relive the Torx experience next time this happened. And happen again, it did. (My cabinetry mop board secures the bottom opening without replacing the Asko plates). * This time I drove to Harbor Freight to buy an $8 hand liquid transfer pump, all the while asking myself why Asko can't put in a drain pump that drains the "overfill" water so I wouldn't have to be driving to Harbor Freight to buy a hand liquid transfer pump. With two people holding the thing in place, again of course, back on the floor, the pump worked. But all the while we used the hand liquid transfer pump we asked the question you should be asking before you buy an Asko dishwasher: Why doesn't the Asko pump drain the "overfill" water so that you won't have to spend your time on the floor with a sponge and spatula, or drive to Harbor Freight for a hand liquid transfer pump? I've owned Profiles and Monograms and Kenmores and KitchenAids and other much more modestly priced dishwashers and have never had to drive to Harbor Freight to buy a hand liquid transfer pump to get my dishwasher going. The Asko design does not seem to be a great design. I hope this might help someone.

If I could I would give this ZERO stars! This is my second go-round with this exact model (originally purchased through Lowe's). When the first one failed to clean the dishes (sometimes they looked like we didn't even turn the thing on after a cycle, it was that bad) we wanted to return it to the store under warranty. Since it was only 3 months after purchase they sent out a GE repairman who treated me like Ihad never owned a dishwasher before. I'm nearly 56 - this is not my first dishwasher rodeo, Mistah! He blamed me for every issue as follows: 1. Our water wasn't hot enough - though we had it set at 125 degrees he said his thermometer was only registering it at 120. We proved was set higher but we set it to 130 degrees. He said we needed to run the hot water to maximum temp before turning on the dishwasher so that "the tub did not cool the water off." (Um...doesn't that defeat the purpose of "energy" efficient?) 2. We did not use the right dishwaster detergent...apparently ONLY Cascade Platinum with Dawn will work with this dishwasher and ONLY JetFinish rinse aid. 3. If we rinsed our dishes of major particles before putting in the dishwasher, then the reason they weren't getting clean is because there was nothing for the soap to "stick to"...HUH? (Now that's a new one - I wonder if GE has scientifically proven that clean dishes will not get cleaner in a dishwasher?) 4. If we used the steam option, the temp boost option or the sani rinse option, it will only "cook" the food onto the dishes and make it harder for the unit to clean them properly. (Then why do they have those options if you aren't supposed to use them, I asked. "Because that is only for commercial applications when you need to sanitize the dishes to get rid of bacteria," he replied. "I didn't know this was a commercial grade dishwasher and so it must be my misconception that this is sold as a residential kitchen dishwasher and that normal kitchens don't have problems with bacteria." (That earned me a stupid, blank stare.) 5. The and kicker...it would be better if we ran the dishwasher at night before we went to bed because if we started up the cycle, then used the cold water in the kitchen sink, that would also reduce the hot water temperature and prevent the dishes from getting clean. But...for the heck of it...I made all the changes he recommended, took pictures of the still dirty dishes and Lowe's was nice enough to offer me the option of either getting a full refund or an exchange. So...I exchanged it. It was nice and quiet (that's the one star) and I thought perhaps GE had just produced a lemon, which happens to everyone occasionally. Last month I had it installed. Nope. Just today I decided I have tolerated a ramping up of the same problems I had with the last one, even though I am still implementing the recommendations of the GE repairman. This IS the worst appliance I ever owned in my entire life.

After putting up with the stove that came with our house for over 15 years we figured we had waited long enough and bought the BOSH HDS7052U Evolution 700. Ease of cleaning was mission one with us as the 1970's pea soup green :-[ stove we had was designed by men who obviously never had to clean one. It had more cracks, crevasse, holes and indentations than the Grand Canyon. A slick stainless steel top with sealed burners and an easy wipe back was a must. And having the control knobs set on the front, out of the way of potential spills, was a plus. We didn't want the oblong center burner, the banana we called it, either. It would be of little use to us and another place for food to trap. The BOSH looked to be the best one at a price under two grand. So we pulled the trigger and got the BOSH. Every once in a while you make a decision that was clearly the best one. This was one of those times for us. It's more than just a stove; it's an elegant well designed, useful piece of equipment. There are a number of food preparation tasks you can do. If you bake bread, like we do, you'll find the proofing mode indispensable. It can also be use to make yogurt. We've make beef jerky with the food dehydrator mode and the bottom warming drawer is really useful for keeping foods warm when preparing meals that contain several elements. There are four burner sizes and we use them all. And when you need to simmer something like rice, we cook a lot of rice, you just turn the knob all the way to the right until it stops and you got a perfect low flame for simmering. With our old stove it was a pain because too far and the flame would go out. The convection roasting mode is great for boneless skinless chicken breast as it will cook them without drying the meat out. I use to think that the whole oven convection cooking thing was a bit of a gimmick. Boy, was I was wrong. Foods cook faster and more even. And with the convection roasting mode this stove offers, you get heat from the back and bottom which is then circulated by the convection fan. That's true euro convection cooking. For cleaning, there are 2 stove top grates that are a snap to remove for accessing the stainless bottom. The back is an easy wipe glass display panel. Inside the oven the bottom is removable to get right down to the burners if you need to or to bring it to the sink for cleaning. The oven lights, there are two of them, automatically come on when the door is opened. This unit has the self cleaning oven feature but we have not needed to use it just yet. We've had this stove for two months now and the only improvement I can think of is wheels for when you want to pull it away from the wall to clean behind the stove. As a contractor I've seen a lot of high end stoves over the years doing kitchen remodels, like the Viking line, but you can't beat this Bosh for the money. Happy cooking and good eating.

Purchased this item brand new from Lowe's, end of January 2013. This is my first washer/dryer combo with no center wash agitator. When the machine is running properly, it's fantastic. The wash cycle is significantly quieter than other machines I've used. The knob selections leave you with very limited options as far as being able to influence the actual wash duration. I've noticed that the "normal" wash cycle typically takes up to an hour, which is significantly longer than other machines I've used. The spin cycle on this machine is another story... It may very well be that I have a faulty machine, but when doing larger, heavier loads (i.e. towels, blankets) the machine gets extremely finicky. Sometimes it will run smoothly, but the majority of the time, it makes horrific clanging noises as if the wash bin is loose and thrashing around inside the machine, and the entire unit shakes and rattles wildly. Doing "normal" loads (shirts, pants etc.), I can load the machine to 80% capacity and it usually runs okay. But with heavier loads, if it's not under 50% capacity, the machine goes berserk. I even had an authorized repairman take a look at the machine. He opened up the front panel and examined the machine under load and could not locate the source of the clanging noise. Another limitation of the machine are the knob selections. For example, "rinse" and "spin" are a single selection. You can't just run the spin cycle to wring wet clothes, you are forced to run the clothes through a rinse cycle as well. This of course caused problems for myself and the repairman trying to trouble shoot the spin cycle because now we had to wait 10 minutes for the rinse cycle to complete... Pausing the machine mid-cycle for any reason is also a no-no. Pushing the button to halt machine operation (for example, if the machine is banging around during spin cycle) will pause the machine, shortly after which it "resets" the cycle. So for example, if you pause the machine with 10 minutes remaining in the wash cycle, and you let it sit too long (3-5 minutes?), when you "resume" the wash cycle, it will just start all over again. Regarding the lint trap itself is very small and clogs quickly. Is this a limitation of the dryer or are my clothes just linty? :p If the trap gets fully clogged, I would recommend clearing it and running the dryer cycle for a few more minutes or so in order to catch remaining lint. Also, the dryer door has a spring in it which causes the door to close slowly when opened. This is extremely irritating when trying to put clothes into or take clothes out of the dryer. PROS: Quiet operation (when it's working properly) CONS: Noisy spin cycle (when it' not working properly), lack of options on the knob turn dials, small lint trap, dryer door automatically closes. I will try to post a video shortly.

This company has received a lot of bad publicity. My question to you that believe these reviews, would this company be able to command such a high initial cost if they weren't manufacturing a premium product? This is my 3rd European dishwasher. My first two were made in Germany. This is my first Scandinavian. I made my decision based on the flexibility of interior and capacity. My last dishwasher was top of the line and came in at a price of $1899. I was doing dishes everyday. The new one I'm finding I don't have to run this every other day or every 3rd day. Now that's capacity. There are actually four levels in this machine. A top basket (small) to put sharp knives. An adjustable full width and depth rack that you can actually put tall mugs in, lower a shelf and stack regular sized cups or on the rocks glasses. The shelf that drops down also holds stemmed glasses as well. The center basket is a real bonus. It can accomodate shallow bowls or fry pans on one side as it has it's own spray system, the other side is removable or can be used for odd shaped kitchen tools, spatulas, wooden spoons, etc. The lower basket holds a bevy of dishes and/or deeper pots and pans, & silverware. There are an additional two spray zones on the bottom of the tub to concentrate on pots and pans. The racks all have so much flexibility. There is not much that you're not able to fit in here, in fact I would say nothing. Now my German made machines were nice, but they relied on extra racks to make them flexible. Racks that you have to store when not in use, racks that never saw the interior of my machine because it was such a pain to get them out. My German machines were very reliable, but the difference between my first and my second, the stainless was so THIN as they began to cheapen their products. This machine is very robust. the Stainless Steel is 18/9. That's pretty heavy gauged metal. My first German machine had a mechanical timer, that were push button engaged. My second was touch (which relied on the heat of your finger to activate) The Asks has hidden buttons on the top of the door. The control is all solid state, not mechanical. The ONE & ONLY thing I would add to my ASKO is a light that shines on the floor as my 2nd German machine had. I miss it, but I can live without it given the flexibility and capacity of my new machine. It was very easy to install as were my German machines. I'm a firm believer you get what you pay for. So I'm hoping that all the reviews I've read were people that bought lesser machines by ASKO and expected top shelf performance. In my lifetime I've had six dishwashers. 3 American made, 3 European. The American produced machines were VERY troublesome. They were all top of the line machines, but at that time America hadn't embraced Stainless Steel tubs. The racks were pathetic and usually began to rust sometime between their 2nd and 3rd year. I've yet to replace a European made rack because of poor quality and rust.

Did not fit my model LRSC26920TT, but I made it work with common tools. Note that the tabs are off-set, and not necessarily too large for the holes, so you will need to file the tabs down on the sides shown with the arrows. Don't file down just any side, and don't file down both sides of one tab.*** Here we go. Start with a nail file [I used a metal cosmetic nail file, but you can probably also use an emery board]. 1). Shave down about 2 mm from the "outer side" of the tabs [Note -the pic here shows only about 1 mm shaved down -- you need to shave away up to 1/3 of the tab and only shave down on the side of the tab shown under the arrows]. Do this in the same manner on the corresponding two tabs on the other side of the funnel. 2).Then [not shown, and this is optional] shave a tiny bit off the "nose" of the hook of the tab so it is slightly rounded, being careful not to shave down too much. Two to three gentle passes of the file is enough. 3). Briefly use a flashlight to get the lay of the land, then position the four funnel tabs into the tab holes [shown in pic 2] and see / feel whether they are falling into place. 4) Employing serious gusto, push the two tabs from one side [I did the left side first] until you hear/ feel it snap into place. For the other side, you will position the remaining tabs into place and then use a flat head screwdriver or similar object to put precise pressure under one of the last two tabs, and push it into place [I selected the NE tab from my perspective facing the fridge since I could see that one best]. When you get that third tab in, the last tab will likely pop in along with it. ***These last two steps may be frustrating since the funnel is not going to snap in too easy and so you will be wondering if you shaved off enough of the tabs. As a rule of thumb, DO NOT file down more than 1/3 of the tab. And, do not remove too much of the tab "nose" -- that step might not even be needed but I feel that it helped somewhat to get the tabs to snap in place since I don't have a lot of hand strength. Note that I took the picture of the shaved tabs before I did the final filing, so go a bit further than what I am showing. I ultimately shaved the tab down to about where the blue dots are [no need to shave *below* the dots, keep that bit there for stability].*** Finally [or firstly,], if you want to verify that you have the off-set tab problem before you go shaving down anything, take a piece of scotch tape and run it along the frame with the two holes [pic 2], press so that you get an outline of the holes and the corners, then remove the tape and compare the outline of the hole placement on the tape to the tabs on the funnel being sure to visualize how you will place the funnel in relation to the holes. Doing this is how I determined where to do the filing of the tabs. Hope this helps.

Chances are that if you're reading this, you've already figured out one of the possibilities of your LG washing machine not operating correctly is this part. If not, I found this professional online resource very handy for diagnostics: [...] Here's what happened to me and the fix: Our LG WM2455WH is 5 1/12 years old and started to take longer for the wash cycles to complete. One day, we noticed a severe delay--over 2 hours to complete a normal cycle of 50 minutes. One day, the machine would not even power up. Using info from the link above, I tore into the machine and performed the diagnostic tests on the noise diffuser (this washing machine is a very simple device and easy to work on if you're a DIY'er). The old diffuser seemed to test OK according to the specs from the technician, but I still ordered a new one. NOTE: The P/N on the old diffuser read "6201EC1006A" so I was unsure if this part would be an exact replacement. I got a hold of LG's online chat and they confirmed the difference in the part suffix only refers to the unique manufacturer of the part (they must have multiple manufacturers for their parts--I saw one LG noise diffuser referenced with "L"----supposedly that P/N superceded the original "A" part). The LED light on the main circuit board wasn't lit, and I suspecting it also may be faulty I ordered it as well (P/N EBR32268002 'PCB ASSEMBLY,MAIN'#. I proceeded to install both parts and the washing machine came back to life and worked perfectly! I still wondered if I needed the new noise filter assembly, so I swapped the old one in and even though it powered up, the wash cycles didn't work correctly as before. #Maybe# an upgrade on this new part compared to the original is a built-in fuse for added protection? Even so, I read that it may be a good idea to add surge protection so I changed my wall receptacle to&nbsp;<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/Leviton-5280-W-15-Amp-125-Volt-Decora-Plus-Duplex-Surge-Suppressor-Receptacle-Straight-Blade-Industrial-Grade-Self-Grounding-White/dp/B0006I33Y6/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">Leviton 5280-W 15 Amp, 125 Volt, Decora Plus Duplex Surge Suppressor Receptacle, Straight Blade, Industrial Grade, Self Grounding, White</a>. This gives me peace of mind that perhaps I won't have to do this job again. As always, the Amazon ordering, fulfillment & customer experience is great! I hope you have as much success fixing your machine as I did. Good Luck!

We just replaced an older Maytag dishwasher that was in the house when we moved in 7 years ago - and was 5 to 10 years old at that time. It never did a good job washing the dishes. Left food inside the cups, and on any bowl, dish or cup that was around the edges or in the corner. It was common for white water stains to coat a dish or bowl front and back, with no apparent rhyme or reason - dishes on either side, with the same food remnants, would be clean. I had to service the latch handle twice and replaced the drain valve/pump assembly and various rubber fittings. I stopped short of buying a new washer motor and decided to move on. At least we kept it going for 7 years... So with no brand loyalty whatsoever I found this one and chose it because it was the least expensive option for a stainless-door, super-quiet dishwasher. So far we are incredibly happy with this thing. The dishes come out completely clean; glasses are crystal clear; even a tall, narrow cup standing upright in the corner of the top rack comes out 100% perfectly clean, no water spots, no food. We have a busy house, four kids, and so we've been running around 10 loads per week for two weeks. So far the only dish that came out with food was a piece of thin mango that had dried solidly on a plate for two days before going in the dishwasher. It was already hardened on its way in. Believe me, with all these little kids, a LOT of rotten milk cups, gross plates, food makes it in the dishwasher. This dishwasher plows through ALL of it with aplomb. We have a relatively small house with an open kitchen / dining / living area in the back area; we couldn't run the old dishwasher while we were doing anything in the back. Had to wait until it was bedtime (then close all the doors around the back area so it wouldn't wake up the babies), or just before we're all leaving the house. It would even compete with the TV turned up. This one we can do any time. Even in a completely silent room, it barely registers a low hum standing in the kitchen or sitting at the table, and almost nothing from the couch. Quiet music of TV and there's nothing - just nothing. All of which is to say, it does what it it's supposed to do (clean dishes) VERY well, and very quietly. You just can't ask for better. I do not know whether we could have spent $200 less and come away with an equally functional, but louder dishwasher. Possibly so. But what I CAN say is, the combination of extremely effective washing and extremely quiet operation makes this one a clear good choice to "splurge". The only negative I have about it is that the handle grip is plastic and feels very flimsy. They should have it with a skeleton of honeycomb plastics or, better yet, a metal frame, that would feel much more solid. The plastic, as it is, flexes a bit when you pull the door open, and doesn't feel as solidly constructed as you'd hope. I do not yet know about its durability since, as I mentioned, it's only a couple of weeks old - but I will come back after some time and report on that.

Before I give my two cents on this range, I will say that our home builder chose the appliances in our new home and I had never heard of Bertazzoni before that. I'm a huge "research everything before you buy" type person so this was a big deal. I cook pretty much every day and bake breads every week so the oven is probably the most important part of the kitchen for me. At first sight, I loved the look of it. Truly a beautiful appliance. I had never had an oven that didn't have any digital displays like a timer and all that, but I was pleasantly surprised at how quickly I adapted to that and now I prefer it this way. Also, mine is gas, if that matters to anyone. Now on to the pros and cons: Pros: -The cook-top is definitely this ovens strong point. Things heat up so quickly and I love the different functions each burner has. -Super easy to clean. Everything comes apart, grates, caps, under caps, the oven door and you can even separate the glass for deeper cleaning. -The cooling fan when the oven is on. It seems other reviewers were annoyed by it saying it is over loud, but I don't feel like it's all that bad. No, it isn't quiet, but it really doesn't bother me. We have a pretty big kitchen with an open floor plan though so that might be why. -Thermacouple. At first I found this annoying because it clicks for soooo long, but it keeps from walking by the burner dials and accidentally turning them on. My SO hates it though because he has a habit of leaning on the stove and he gets annoyed when he sets it off lol. Cons: -The iron grates on the range are beautiful and easy to clean, but they scratch the crap out of the stainless steel. My cooktop is all scratched up now from just setting them grates in after cleaning. -As others have said, the oven really doesn't cook evenly. The left side of my oven is always the hotter side. I do always have to rotate whatever is in there. It doesn't really bother me since I always watch my food and do this anyway. If you are a "set it and forget it" type cook, you may have a hard time. -The rack positions seem odd to me. The way they are spaced out in there, makes it kind of difficult to bake a few things at once that are different sizes. -It isn't deep enough for a lot of cookie sheets to set in there "portrait style" side by side. My solution was that I just bought a few half sheets. Overall, I'm very pleased with range, but some things will bother people and other things won't. The last thing to keep in mind is that this oven really isn't for beginner cooks or people that don't like to cook. It really doesn't have any features that make cooking easy. You have to watch everything and have a feel for it. If you like to pop a casserole in the oven, set your timer and not come back until it beeps, then this isn't for you.

I wish I could leave a better review, but I really can't because AKDY's support is NON-EXISTENT. The fan arrived on time and the item works well. As other reviewers have stated, the instructions are horrible. You will spend a lot of time trying to figure out what to do on your own. Some of the screws that I had to remove and then re-screw back in (due to the poor instructions making no sense) stripped out, but fortunately I had other screws that I could use in their place. The main issue is that this thing has two control panels, but only one of them works. I figured I might have gotten a defective product, and so I called AKDY's customer support. This was on the 2nd of January, and the option for "customer support" went straight to voicemail. I figured maybe they were closed that day, and so I called the next day, and still the same result. So I went onto their website and filled out the support form. When you click the submit button, nothing happens, and so you don't know if they got your message or not. I got no automated response in my email, and as far as I can guess the customer support page doesn't actually fill out out a ticket with them. Then after a few days of still seeing nothing in my email, I called them again and this time while the phone didn't go to voicemail, it just rang and rang. I want to note that their business hours are located on their website and every time I called I was well within those hours of operation. Then on the 9th of January I wrote them an email directly instead of using their webpage, and as of the 18th, I still have gotten no response from them. AKDY, you should just put on your page that "If you need help with a defective item, too bad. We don't care," because at least then you'd be honest. From what I gather, your customer support department doesn't really exist, and your webpage and phone number for them are just for show. One of two of the control panels still works, and while the range hood looks and works well itself, I can't leave any higher a review than one star. As you can see from the picture, only one of two panels lights up and is operable. UPDATE: After writing this review I finally got in touch with their warranty department. Not because they finally responded to email or the request that I submitted on their website, but because I kept calling them and finally someone picked up. They sent the parts (took almost two weeks) but now the problem has been resolved. So I guess the only real way to get your product fixed is to keep calling them during their business hours and just hope someone answers. Changing this review to two stars, but regardless I would still advise going with a different brand. If I ever need another range hood I will definitely go with a different manufacturer.

This dishwasher has a fatal flaw. I have to try and shut the door anywhere from 4 to 6 times before it latches. Then maybe two to three times during the wash the door pops open. So you just can't start a wash and leave. The repair man has been here three times because when the door does not totally latch properly the dishwasher will not drain. The first time he came we thought it was the drain pump. The second service call he realized the door was causing the problem. By the third time GE had issued a bulletin and he replaced a lot of door parts. GE's website says that you may have problems with the door but be patient and after about 15 washes the door should settle in properly. Well I'm up to 24 washes and today I thought I'd never get it to latch. I am calling again. The sad part is that this washer is so quiet and when it works it does a beautiful job of cleaning and drying the dishes. Best washer we've ever had BUT the door latch problem overrides all that. I want a replacement. Wish they still had a mechanical latch system. I cannot recommend this washer. Update 10/14/15 Service person came out for 5th visit. Was replacing the door module. Called me in and said` he could not get the door to latch but had called GE and GE was going to get me a new dishwasher. He gave me a case number and while he was there I called GE and for sure they confirmed it was a go and would have the trade out info for me in two business days. First let me say that I am dealing with one of the most reputable Appliance Dealers in Tucson, Christie's Appliance. Second the service tech was always on time and courteous and tried his darndest to fix it. This appliance dealer's service department is a designated GE service company for Tucson area. I am very pleased with this reaction from GE. I guess it paid to be patient and have the service company prove the dishwasher was unfixable. I am going to get the same washer. When it worked it was absolutely the best and most quiet I've ever had. Plus since this is one of the most popular models and after doing research on the GE website the percentage of washers with this problem was very low. I also searched Consumer reports reviews on all their dishwashers and wow every one is having some sort of problem so I will roll the dice. If there is a problem with the replacement I will update again. In the past I had a terrible experience with Whirlpool and an over the range Microwave. They sent out 11 service visits, I'm not kidding, they even tried different service companies, the last tech said that the Micro was dangerous and not to use it and that they would be contacting Whirlpool. One week later we checked with Whirlpool and Whirlpool said the service tech told them he fixed it and all was fine. We had no choice buy to replace it at our expense. That's the difference with an honest repair company and one that's afraid to make the manufacturer upset.

When my Jenn Air convection wall oven finally died, I began the search for a replacement. After having 3 touchpads fail in the time I owned it, I was not looking for another Jenn Air. I had already replaced my Jenn Air ceramic cook top with a Kenmore one, which has been excellent, and my Jenn Air microwave with a GE Profile model, which is the best such device I have ever used. However, since Consumer Reports rated the Whirlpool oven the best, I looked at it first. Two things drove me away: the noise issue and the slow preheat reported by many. Since there is often a big difference in the reviews by magazines and those by people who actually live with the product, I place more value on the latter, at least when they are thoughtfully given. Noise is a big issue for my wife, and whether it was a quality control issue (some being quiet enough, others noisy), or just some owners being more sensitive to noise than others, it seemed like a bad risk either way for us. We are sensitive to noise, and I don't care to play games of chance with such an expensive item. So we reluctantly gravitated to the more expensive GE, which at least would match the GE Microwave which sits above the oven. Also I hoped that the extra cost was for better quality components (like fans) and a robust build quality. So far I am impressed. The new wall ovens have concealed bottom elements, which makes keeping them clean with a simple wiping down with dish detergent or vinegar a very easy task. This almost certainly means a slightly longer preheat time, however. Nevertheless, where my Jenn Air took around 10 minutes to reach 350 degrees, the GE took less than 13 minutes. Not a bad trade off in my opinion. The temperature actually reached was 352 on my Fluke thermocouple. This oven automatically adjusts the temperature when using convection, and does so differently when you choose single rack baking or multi rack. My Fluke showed temperature control to be excellent. It is also very quiet in my experience. Off course, when turned off the fan will continue to run for quite a while. As with my old Jenn Air, I simply leave door open until it cools off to speed up the process. But in this case not because of excess noise, but because I am just fussy about using more power than I need to. Being a bread maker, a feature of the old Jenn Air I really liked was the ability to set the temperature as low as 100 degrees. This was great for proofing bread and making yogurt. Most ovens don't allow you to set a temp below 170 degrees a bad idea in my opinion. This oven, however, has a proof setting which gets around this. Also leaving the oven light on in an oven once it is around 100 degrees will usually keep it just right for making yogurt or rising dough. So far this oven meets my expectations. I installed it myself, so I can confirm that it feels solid and well made. It is quiet and the controls are easy to use. Time alone will tell how durable and reliable it proves to be. But I will continue to update this review, as it can be very difficult trying to decide among such expensive items with so little shared information available.

This review will hopefully help somebody not have to wade through the internet for a long time and thus shorten the repair process. We have a Frigidaire dual fuel range GLCS389EQB that suddenly stopped heating. We initially thought it could be the bottom element which brought us to this page since the other sources online appeared to be cheaper but when one factored in shipping, Amazon was almost the same price thus it was easier to order since all the info is already in Amazon for shipping and payments. We received the element and replaced the old element only to find that the oven still did not work. We could have returned this element but felt that a range that is almost 10 years old could use a new element so we kept it. Since the element was new, the next logical source of the problem was the control unit. Although I could not find a source out there that indicated this, I found that the control unit is not cheap. In fact, it is $243.32 with shipping direct from Electrolux (Frigidaire's parent company). Ordering was easily done via the telephone and the cost was almost identical to many of the part places online. The control unit came but had no instructions. Using the online manuals that are available, it was relatively easy to see how this needed to replaced. I have included some pictures for the DIYers out there to help save you the cost of a repair service call. The most difficult part was the removal of the wiring harness on the control board. A small screwdriver was needed to slightly pry the plastic back to remove the harness. The other curious part was the ribbon wiring which had a locking system that needed to be lifted up to release the ribbon and pushed down to lock the ribbon back in place. The entire job took less than 15 minutes. Be sure to unplug the stove. Also, it made sense to snap a picture before you remove the wires to be sure you put them back in the same place. While we were at it, we were able to clean the almost 10 years of cooking crap that collected. Fortunately, it was not too bad. Good design by Frigidaire IMHO. We love this range and felt that a simple $325 investment was cheaper than buying a new range. Not paying for a service call made this a no brainer. Hopefully those who have problems with their Frigidaire dual fuel range model GLCS389EQB will find this page. Good luck! BTW- the part number for the control panel is 316418731 CLOCK/TIMER, ELECTRONIC, ES510 and the phone number for Eletrolux is 800-599-7569. It is best to give them the model number of your range and they will tell you the part. The customer service rep stated that the likely cause of the lack of heat is first the element and then the control panel in that order. Also, this element fit perfectly and arrived very quickly.

I have needed to replace this panel more than three times for the exact same reason. SHORTED buttons. The original panel lasted about 4 years. BUT I needed to remove the panel from the dishwasher and use a vacuum cleaner on blower to blow air through the one air hole near the vent. This seems to have dried any moisture temporarily and made the panel run good for a couple of washes before repeating the procedure (Pain in the neck). Finally, the short would not go away. I reordered both the Console panel and control panel. The dishwasher was good for about a year. Then I started getting shorting button symptoms (Blinking lights on the console) again. According to a website the best way to determine if it is the control board or electronic console that is bad is by doing the following: A rapidly blinking LED over one of the keys of the keypad (or sometimes a dead keypad/console) indicates one or more key switch lines are stuck or shorted on either the control or the keypad. To determine if the control or keypad is faulty, do the following test: 1. Unplug dishwasher or disconnect power. 2. Open the dishwasher door. 3. Open console and disconnect the green keypad ribbon connection from the control (at P1). Make sure all other connections are made. 4. Put console back together. Do not close the dishwasher door. 5. Plug in dishwasher or reconnect power. 6. Wait 5 seconds. 7. Close dishwasher door. 8. Monitor the controls response: If the control is OK (no longer sees shorts with the keypad unplugged), it will respond by turning on a Drain Motor for 2 minutes. Check and/or replace the keypad if the control responds OK. If the control is not OK (still sees shorts with the keypad unplugged), then the drain motor will NOT respond and will remain off. If no response, replace the control. Every Time it indicated a shorted or open Electronic console. I reordered a new one. Lasted two weeks. Returned it to Sears Parts. They send me another under Warranty. Installed it and it is working great again. I contacted Whirlpool.com about this problem. It is obviously a engineering problem. What I believe is happening is that the console has two AIR holes on it that allows air to circulate through the electronic membrane switches inside the console. One is located near the Vent and the other is located under the Control board. When the dishwasher is working, it produces either steam or very high water saturated air which is being expelled through the vent. Unfortunately, this contaminated air is being circulated through the membrane metallic switches. They are very thin so they will easily corrode and short or possibly open when the switch is pressed externally. The hole near the Vent, on the new console, I covered with tape hoping to lessen the amount of air going through since one hole is covered. I hoping this will prevent contaminated air from entering the console and destroying the delicate metallic membrane switches. Will update if this works for longer than a year.

ORIGINAL: When the burners on top work right, they are great. The front left gets a little funky and we had to have ours replaced. But that would just merit a star off. The problem is the oven. It's a convection oven, so it should be much more even heating that a regular gas oven. Unfortunately, it is not. Temperature in the oven can vary by more than 100 degree from one area to the next. So forget about baking anything precisely. We have resorted to rotating items both between racks and facing multiple directions, during any baking. Very disappointing. UPDATE: We were using the convection setting incorrectly. Even though it sounded like the convection fan was on, if the light inside the oven is OFF, then the convection fan is not actually working. You have to turn the knob for the light to the RIGHT, and the second fan, (not the one you hear at first) goes on and the light stays on the whole time. This means: If the light is off, the convection feature is NOT enabled and you will get uneven heating. Note that it is possible to turn the light on without the convection feature too, so just because the light is on, does not mean the convection feature is working. But the opposite is true. If you think you are using the convection feature and there is no light on inside the oven, you are wrong. We were wrong :) ORIGINAL: The one (other?) odd feature of the fan/oven is that this thing blows out lots of hot air into the room while the oven is on -- I mean, standing in front of it is like standing in front of a heater vent sending out heat on a cold day. It makes summer baking out of the question. But it does look very good, sitting in the kitchen and people oogle it. I just tell them, if you get one, get one with an electric oven. I'd hope (but don't know) that it works better. Honestly, the $200 generic gas oven we had in our college apt was better for baking than this one :( UPDATE: After a few months, got some better info from Bertazonni's representative. There are a separate set of instructions they use in training their folks about how to use the oven -- things not covered in the user manual -- in terms of adjusting temperature for use with the convection settings, etc. These have helped us get some better performance in the oven for baking. I'm still testing all of them out, but so far it is working better, so I have added a couple of stars. I am still leaving off one star because of the faulty burner I got at first and the strange convection light. But the warranty replacement burner has worked fine, so that's good customer service. And having to keep the light on is weird and counter intuitive and probably a bit wasteful -- but at least the convection feature works!

I can't tell you how impressed I am with this company "Kobe's" customer service. You always worry about buying something this large and expensive online. What if it doesn't work... and you've already installed it? Well I ordered this hood in September, arrived in October and we did not finish our remodel on time... so installed it in December. It is beautiful, and it works great. Except the two LED lights would not come on. So I called Ron Lee at Kobe Range Hoods. He was extremely friendly... said he'd send two lights out to me. They were at my door the next morning at 10:00am... FEDEX. I installed them... he sent detailed easy to follow instructions. And... the lights still did not work. I checked the continuity on the switch and it was ok. Called Ron back. He said he'd send me a new power supply. He did and it arrived again the very next day... FEDEX. I installed that (very easy) the power supply and the lights still did not work. So I called Ron again... and he said he would find an appliance company in my area to come out and fix it.... whatever it was. A day later I got an email from him... with contact information for Gormsley Appliance in San Diego... and shortly after that... a call from Gormsley.... and they scheduled a service call. Two nights before the appointment (last night) I was cooking and turned the hood on. Lights came on.... I cycled the switch and they turned off... turned back on.... then I turned the hood off... cycled the lights again... everything was working fine. This morning I tried the lights again.... working fine, so I called Gormsley and Kobe Range Hoods and cancelled the service call. Apparently the gremlins have quit messing with me :-) Kobe Range hoods makes a beautiful appliance... and they really.... really know how to take carer of customer's. I would highly recommend them to anyone wanting to buy a hood at a excellent price. This hood was less than half the price of what an equal one would have been at Ferguson's or Pacific Sales. Compare this hood:&nbsp;<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/KOBE-Range-Hoods-RA2830SQB-1-Under-Cabinet-Hood-3-Speed-680-CFM-with-LED-Lights-30-Inch/dp/B00E5Y5QNI/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">KOBE Range Hoods RA2830SQB-1 Under Cabinet Hood 3-Speed, 680 CFM with LED Lights, 30-Inch</a>&nbsp;to anything out there! You can order this with confidence that after installed... they will take care of you.

<div id="video-block-RUBFO746CTUVB" class="a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block"></div><input type="hidden" name="" value="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/B1Xdyr1JQfS.mp4" class="video-url"><input type="hidden" name="" value="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81oZQFVjz4S.png" class="video-slate-img-url">&nbsp;I can't believe what a dud this fridge is! We were so excited to get this (and it's no small investment). We wanted a large fridge for our growing family, and had space for a 36" wide appliance. We didn't want a bottom freezer because all of our friends were unhappy with the freezers on these - total chaos inside with nothing found easily. Also, we have two kids under 5 years old so we wanted something that the kids could reach into and a bottom freezer makes the fridge above a child's height. We looked at side-by-sides, but all the reviews said the sizes were smaller than reported and we wanted to maximize the fridge size. So, even though this was more than we wanted to spend, we took the plunge and were so excited to finally upgrade from our 12 y.old, $400 Kenmore. What a mistake! I had no idea how low GE had come (time to sell that stock!). As soon as we plugged the fridge in we were shocked at the loud electrical sounding noise it made. We could hear it in the next room. In the hallway. At the dining table. It was that weird, high pitched sound that computers sometimes make. Not loud, but high pitched in a dog whistle kind of way. So I called the retailed, who said call GE. I called GE and after various phone calls, that I had to do from work and took approximately 2 hours of my time, I arranged for a repair person to come out. My husband took an entire day off work to wait for the guy and, predictably, he arrived in the last 5 minutes of the alotted time slot. He walked in, listened to the fridge and said, "yup, that's what a compressor sounds like". Total BS. I have two friends who bought fridges within a year of us, and theirs are totally silent. I'm startled by the silence when I walk into their apartments. But, then again, they were smart enough to have bought LGs. Anyway, now it's about 6 months from delivery and we're on to the next problem - a *very* loud, motor boat-like noise. No idea where this is coming from, but can't wait for the repair person to tell me this is normal too. Haven't called GE yet, as it will be another few hours on the phone, trying to get the right person. Then a day off work. Then they'll probably just replace some part that will last long enough for the warranty to expire until the next problem. Listen for yourself - should be enough to keep you away from this piece of...

Update* May 27, 2016: I have been in customer service for over 15 years running my own business and cannot believe Maytag/Whirlpool is still in business given the horrible customer service and product quality I have experienced with them. Just spoke to a supervisor who was rude and arrogant. The reps I spoke to were more honest and helpful. All in all, a terrible experience with a faulty product, Maytag Bravos XL washing machine (with Commercial Technology). The first rep I spoke with admitted that there have been many problems with this machine. A local technician who initially diagnosed the problem said these machines are a lousy product and the technician sent by Maytag/Whirpool said the Bravos washers have had loads of issues (pun intended). I am happy to share the full extent of my terrible experience with anyone considering a purchase from Maytag/Whirlpool. Over $800 for this machine that is less than 4 years old and total junk. Original Review: I purchased this machine in July of 2012. I do numerous loads of laundry every week, as I run a bed & breakfast. In the past, I have used a basic household washing machine. I had hoped this machine would allow me to wash larger loads, faster, with greater energy efficiency. This machine does handle loads which are about 20% larger than my previous household style washers, but it is not faster. I have 3 major complaints about this machine. 1) The machine really beats up towels. With previous machines, my towels stayed in very good condition for 4 years. Now, towels are only lasting 2 years before they become frayed and tattered along the edges. They also develop pulls all over them, which did not happen with past machines I have owned. I think these problems might be related to the fact that the machine uses such low water, that the fabrics end up rubbing so hard on each other like sandpaper. Also, the high speed spin might be beating the fabrics up as well. In either case, I am now having to buy towels and sheets twice as often as I previously bought them. 2) The area around the bleach dish is rusting out horribly. I do not know if this is a design flaw or a use of shoddy materials, but it is unacceptable to open the lid of your 2 year old washing machine and see a big area of rust developing. I will include photographic evidence of this. 3) You cannot let items soak in the tub, as it does not fill up with water. With past machines, I could let the tub fill and let dirty delicates soak for a while before letting the cycle resume. This helped loosen the dirt and release smells. Unable to do this, I find that my clothes does not come clean during the short, low water delicate cycle. For the same reason, you cannot use this machine to dye any fabrics. Another minor complaint is that as time has gone by, what started as an unbelievably quiet machine has become quite loud. I suppose the near silence was to good to last, but since it was the most redeeming feature of this machine, it is sad to see it go. As you can tell, I am not satisfied with this purchase given the cost and the fact that I had hoped it would perform at least as well as previous ordinary washing machines I'd purchased from a used appliance store for $200.

I purchased the WT1701CW Top Load Washer from an authorized dealer in December 2014, and it was installed Jan 2015 with the completion of my new house. I moved in my new house in March and the washer has begun to have problem every since. The problems are: 1. The rinse in normal cycle is literally 45 seconds long with very little water sprayed on clothes 2. the washer will stop randomly during the cycle for no reason 3. The most critical problem is that the washer leaves detergent marks on all clothes, regardless of what detergent I used, how much detergent I used, or what cycle I chose. Once the detergent marks are left on clothes, they are nearly impossible to remove unless extensively hand washed. The detergent residues left on the clothes have caused allergy to my family member, especially to my pregnant wife. This is a tremendous health hazard, so we have no choice but hand wash our clothes even since. Given these aforementioned problems, I have contacted LG's authorized service multiple times, and they have sent service person 7 times to come in trying to repair this machine. Firstly, they replaced the top control board. Nothing was improved. Then, they came in to replace the bottom control board, however, the service person found out that the part came in was incorrect. Then, he went back and request new part to be shipped. Three weeks later, two new boards came in and they were exactly identical as the incorrect one that was sent three week ago. When the service person opened the circuit board case to take a picture of the original bottom control board, he found out that the board in the machine was incorrect as well! There was a multipin socket that has nothing connect to it. Therefore, it turns out that the machine came out of the factory with an incorrect bottom control board in the first place, and the LG service department has no idea how to repair it (given the fact that they sent three incorrect bottom control board). This makes me believe that the LG WT1701CW model I have has essential design problems that LG is incapable of addressing. Additional complaints about the customer service: the customer service of LG is such a pain that dealing with them is time consuming and inefficient. Every time I called, the customer service representative was trying to educate me how to operate the washer correctly, use the right detergent in right amount, even though I have told him/her multiple times that I have literally tried everything possible. Three months have passed since the first time LG started to repair the washer, and I still don't know when this is going to end. I bought what supposed to be high end washer, but end up having to hand wash all my clothes for months. So far, LG has sent technicians from three different tech service store, and they are trying to send a fourth. The LG tech support consistently evaluate the machine to be functioning as supposed to, while the machine constantly leaves detergent marks on the clothes. The LG executive customer service basically told me that they will continue to send tech service but will not replace the unit unless THEIR tech support determine this machine is not repairable.

EDIT: We did finally figure out how to turn off the sound on the machine (thanks to an internet search). I still think there are enough drawbacks that I am not going to change my rating at this juncture. I bought this from a big box store on a good sale, but now wish I could go back to my old low end top loader (which I thought was terrible at the time, but in comparison, was great). In 11 months my machine hasn't broken and I haven't had any mechanical problems, so that accounts for a star or two. My issues are several: 1) It doesn't clean very well, 2) Both old and new clothes have suddenly started getting small holes in them, which makes me hypothesize that the washer is rough on them, 3) There is no way to turn off the sound on the washer (as opposed to the paired dryer, which does have a sound off feature), and 4) It's high(er) maintenace. Here are more details: 1) Doesn't clean. This is using my past washing experience as a comparison (I have used a high-end Bosch HE front loader, and several older-style top loaders of varying quality), and specifically compares it to my last washer, which was on the same county water source so I believe this is the most direct comparison. I use similar washing styles, detergents, boosters/stain removers, and drying methods. With this washer, dirt and stains that in the past were easily removed, still remain after washing. 2) Holes in clothes. At first, I thought the holes in our clothes must be from some kind of pest. While that IS possible, I strongly suspect the washer has something to do with it. The small holes are primarily in clothes that are worn and washed frequently; clothes that sit in dressers or hang in closets but don't get worn as much are hole-free. I thought maybe it was due to the age of clothes, but there are holes on some new clothes as well. So while I cannot prove the washer caused this, I do suspect it to be true. 3) No way to turn off sound. This is a huge pain if your washer is in a location that needs to be kept quiet. For instance, our laundry area is right outside our baby's nursery, and that means we can't run the washer at all in the evenings unless someone wants to stay up trying to put the baby back to sleep. Huge inconvenience. 4) High maintenance. Again, this is just compared to the 5 or 6 washers I've used in the past. This one gets detergent, dirt, and film buildup on the door of the washer (and probably elsewhere, but it is quite visible and gross on the glass door). The manual says it requires (monthly, I think?) cleaning to remove the residues. My question is, given that I have soft water and there should be very little mineral deposits in the water, why isn't the washer able to clean well enough to wash away residue?? This goes back to point 1 - it just doesn't do a great job cleaning. Also, it requires you periodically clean out a drain in the front of the washer. If I were doing it again, I would buy another top-loader.

This is a good, solid dryer, but if the coordinating Miele washer is definitely a star, I can't quite say the same about the dryer. It gets the job done, has a decent number of programs, but it just doesn't seem THAT different from other dryers. In all honesty I find it to be a bit overpriced, and if we didn't have to stack our set I might have gone with something less expensive. Pros - a fair amount of control over the settings (even one for clothes that will be rotary ironed); built in moisture sensor, so no guessing of how long a load will take to dry; built in light (so nothing gets left behind); condensation can be drained into a drain pipe, eliminating the need to empty the container; only dryer I would ever trust wool and cashmere too - does a lovely job with them; reverses the tumble (unless Turbo mode is selected), which keeps sheets from cocooning. Cons - not all programs are intuitive (Woolens = good for all delicates, Fluff = cold air tumble, Anti-Crease = periodic tumbling after end of cycle, Smooth and Sturdy I still haven't figured out); manual is a joke - doesn't even have a chart that shows what the equivalent of the standard "Tumble dry low" etc. is (I do Wrinkle Free + Gentle, unless it's something very delicate, then I choose Woolens); I had to play around with the settings - the first couple of loads were very wrinkled; pricey; stacking requires a "stacking kit" that costs close to two hundred dollars. And one more note - per the instructions you must NOT use dryer sheets, since those can cause damage to the dryer. ETA: I thought I would list a starting point for some standard loads that I dry, in case that helps anyone in the future. Towels - Normal + Turbo + More Dry Sheets - Wrinkle Free + Less Dry/Normal Dress Shirts - Wrinkle Free + Gentle + Rotary Iron (then hang dry and iron) Regular clothes (socks, t-shirts, etc.) - Wrinkle Free + Normal Down Jackets - 45 minutes + Gentle (the moisture sensor gets tricked by the outer layer being dry, so the Wrinkle Free and Normal cycles end while the down filler is still wet, hence having to choose the timed cycle); add&nbsp;<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/Nellie-s-NDB-E-Dryer-Balls-Regular-Fabrics/dp/B0009IB6T2/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">Nellie's NDB-E Dryer Balls, Regular Fabrics</a> Cashmere/Wool sweaters - Woolens and then lay flat on towel to finish drying Delicate synthetics - Woolens and hang/lay to finish drying Clothes that will be hung to finish drying - 20 or 45 minutes (add Gentle if applicable) - this is what I do with most of our t-shirts and tops, since it's the best way to avoid wrinkles

This dishwasher looks nice, is extremely quiet, it has large capacity. I would give it 5 stars if it was not for a big problem. It leaks through the door. Yes, the door. When you are putting the dishes inside it is normal to spill some water over the interior of the door while totally open. Well, when you close the door, all that water will go to the floor of my kitchen! The water somehow goes inside the door itself!?!? GE has been contacted and they are trying to run from their responsibility saying that the warranty only covers "repairs". As this is a bad design it's out!!!!! When I have some time I will upload some videos here for you to see what you can get with this model. I discovered that you you close the door very, very, very slowly the water will not leak. But you close the door normally, it will all come out! It's hard to believe, but I will show you. Not recommended. UPDATE: A third technician coming over finally realize that a rubber sealing the bottom part of the door was placed 180 degrees wrong! That was the reason for the water to come out. Now works fine and I'm not able to do that video anymore. Sorry. I like to dry the dishes with the door slightly open. This way you dry the dishes for free putting some additional moister to the already very dry house. But this machine does not keep the door open. The system is made to close the door and use the Heated dry (using energy). What a waste of energy, for something that can be done for free. So I use a bottle of water to force the door to be open :( UPDATE2: the detergent dispenser is REALLY bad designed: it happens a lot that the detergent tabs don't fall out of the detergent dispenser during the wash cycle. This is due to the fact that the detergent dispenser box is not proper sealed and if you put the detergent tab while the box has some water the tab will dissolve before the cycle and will not come out. When the cycle finishes you can see all the detergent in the door, and some residues of it inside the machine, and the dishes all dirty with detergent. So now I need to dry the detergent dispenser before putting there toe detergent tab and run a second cycle again! UPDATE 3: A forth technician came over and reset the software. FINALLY I found the problem - bad design: the detergent box/door is located right over the forks basket. The forks block the door of the detergent to open!!!!! Now I need to keep that basket empty, if I want the detergent to fall and the machine wash properly :( PROS: -large capacity; -internal organization; -Silent; -allegedly efficient; CONS: -detergent dispenser bad design - kitchenware on the basket block door to open! -Quality control (above issue); -Door does not stay open, if you want to have it slightly open to dry dishes on air (it's free to dry dish with the air!). CONCLUSION: DON't RECOMMEND THIS MODEL!!!!

I recently bought this oven to replace a professional Jenn-Air dual fuel convection oven. What a fantastic purchase! I did a lot of research in stores and through Consumer Reports to find a quality, well-made oven. Although this model is not marketed as "professional" or "commercial", the quality is every bit as good as ones sold for over $2000; it's even way better made than the professional unit I was replacing. Everything about it seems sturdy & well-made; knobs, oven racks, opening/closing the oven doors, cast iron grates, display panel, inside oven finish - nothing seems cheap. The gas top is very temperature specific - I can tweak it to perfectly suit whatever I am cooking. The power burner boils very large stockpots of water within minutes; my old stove took 20 minutes to boil what this stove can do in 10 minutes. Having two ovens is a convenience that I never thought I 'd care about, but I really like it. I use the top oven for most things; I use the bottom convection oven for baked goods - cakes/muffins - and roasters. I keep an oven thermometer inside to gauge if the baking temperature is accurate. It's generally always accurate for the bottom oven. It often fluctuates within 25 degrees, plus or minus, in the top oven. The stovetop burners light quickly without a lot of residual gas escape; the stovetop & oven are very easy to keep clean. If I manufactured this oven, there are two things I might reconsider, although neither one is a deal-breaker. The preheat beeper tells you that the oven has reached its preheated temperature way before it actually does. The instruction manual tells you that it takes 20 minutes to be fully preheated to set temperature; however the beeper goes off in 7-10 minutes. When the beeper goes off, I check my oven thermometer and it's usually 100 - 150 degrees lower than it should be. But it does reach the set temperature in 20 minutes, so I know to just wait a little bit before putting my food in. Another design drawback is that the cast iron grates on the stove top do not have rubber pads on the bottom to keep from scratching or chipping the finish. There are 3 grates and they interlock, which means you always have to take the middle one off first to take the other two off. They are heavy & awkwardly-weighted, so its easy to bang them around a little if you're not very careful. I've been lucky so far, but I'm just waiting for a chip or scratch one of these days. If you are installing this oven yourself, get some help. My husband is young and strong, but this oven was over 300 pounds - it took a lot of ingenuity & people to get it in the kitchen from the garage. All in all, I couldn't be happier with this purchase. :)

I am a retired baker who worked at a high level restaurant where quality was the highest concern. I probably should have known that because this is a gas convection oven, it is much less effective than an electric convection model. (Emphasis on the phrase much less) The reason is that the convection fan doesn't run when the gas is on. It only runs when the gas is off and the temperature is up to the set level. In an electric convection oven the convection fan runs all the time the oven is turned on, even when the element is on. This makes a HUGE difference in the browning and crisping of foods and pastries. As an example, in the GE electric oven this gas model replaced I used to convection broil chicken. I'd have the chicken out of the frig to bring the temp up a little before cooking. Then I'd coat it with olive oil all over and pop it into the preheated 425F convection broiler. In less than 30 min. it would be very well browned and quite crisp. Doing the same thing in this gas convection oven results in undercooked, hardly browned, and not crispy chicken. Very disappointing indeed. The upper element in this oven hardly runs, while the upper element in the electric convection broiler is ablaze and doing its job quite well. I am extremely disappointed in this oven because it should not even have the convection function. By its very nature of not allowing the convection fan to run while the gas is running, it is a failure. If you don't have enough electric power and must run gas, either propane or natural gas, don't spend the money on this stove. You will be much better of resigning to the fact that you won't get the kind of cooking out of it that you should expect. Secondarily, I believe that GE obfuscated the reality of what I describe above when I called to ask on more than one occasion before I made the purchase. Try asking them yourself about the functioning of the fan and gas. Ask them exactly what happens during operation of the bake and broil convection modes. This range comes with an instructional DVD that is crude and very low resolution. It is a childish attempt at instruction. I was very surprised at the low quality that GE produced. In converting the stove from Natural Gas to Propane, it is required to remove the inside bottom of the stove in order to access the orifice. There is a kit that comes with the range. Mine lacked the one of the orifices. I needed to wait a week for the replacement. The range itself was delayed a few weeks beyond the upper limit of the quoted delivery time. As an example, right now the expected delivery = "Estimated Delivery Date: July 9 - 14 when you choose Expedited at checkout." It took them many weeks beyond that time limit to get it to me. Lastly, I do like the the way it looks and feels. But as to its functioning, the way it bakes, I think it is a failure.

This is a great range, however the app that allows you to preheat the oven is frustrating to say the least. You have to remember to press the "Remote Enable" button after every use or else you will not be able to connect via the app. See the terrible app reviews at: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/ge-brillion/id668134574?mt=8 https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/ge-kitchen/id992883749?mt=8 Also if you are excited to use ChefConnect where the stove can automatically turn on the microwaves hood light or fan after turning on a burner then realize that this does not currently work with any of there top of the line Advantium microwaves it only works with the PVM9005 series. As for the range itself I have few complaints. Induction is cool technology that really does boil water faster and provides the instant heat adjustment like gas. Obviously spill over from a pot is way easier to clean than a gas stove and since the cooktop doesn't get hot it doesn't bake food onto the surface. I was rather against a stove without knobs as I felt the speed of turning it on would be annoying, but it isn't annoying at all and my wife loves the easy cleaning since knobs are generally a pain. My main complaint with induction is that I'm afraid to scratch the pretty surface. With a coil top electric or a gas stove I feel comfortable shaking a pan back and forth to move food around, now I'm scared my wife will kill me if I get a scratch on there. Perhaps it's more durable than I think I just haven't yet had the courage to test my limits. Likewise cast iron skillets scare me on the top for scratches, some people recommend putting a paper towel, newspaper, or silpat between which maybe I'll try but GE says not to put anything between. Finally just a note that griddles which are induction friendly are incredibly difficult to find. Almost all griddles are aluminum which is not induction friendly. Adding even more difficulty is trying to find a double burner griddle which is induction friendly. Just to help you out if you're looking for griddles try these links: Tri-Ply Griddle (Vollrath 77530): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J59FGUQ?colid=39P11Y9E63DPF&coliid=I3HLU1B0772CQ9&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl Cast Iron Griddle (Lodge Pro-Logic P12SG3): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0008G2W2U?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage http://www.dvorsons.com/ChefKing/Griddles.htm Doulbe Burner Griddle (Chef King RM1220): http://www.dvorsons.com/ChefKing/Griddles.htm Most people online just recommend buying an electric griddle like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00066XROO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I do wish the oven had the rack that slides out on rollers instead of just the old fashioned adjustable shelves.

This is the review I did at Best Buy, which was rejected. Oh well, I don't pull punches! When I tried to register the product at the samsung site, it kept kicking me out to correct non-existent errors, giving me the suspicion they didn't want to accept my information or to honor the warranty. I got them on the phone and they cheerfully set-up an appt. with the only Samsung service available in a 75 mile radius and I live just outside Chicago! Not sure what had happened to my brand new dishwasher, I decided to call the service outlet 12 miles from my home to inquire about the possibility of it being due to bad electric service. They informed me that the visit alone, would be $138! I since realized it was Samsung's fault because I have 4 other electronic appliances that have been around for 5 years, trouble-free. But I also decided to Google trouble with this dishwasher and immediately found a website called: Consumer Complaints & Reviews. Apparently, I wasn't the only one who discovered too late, that the most important part of selling me a samsung dishwasher is getting me to purchase it.... Of the top 125 complaints, there are about 20 -30 best buy customers. The typical breakdown concerns the chinese electronic control panel which is what my problem is, according to the trouble code. The dishwasher will recover after about 4 -8 hours, begins a new wash cycle and then a few minutes later, stops and blinks the l.e.d.s. I've had it for 6 months and used it 10 times. I have the original box of powerball tablets recommended by samsung. I live alone and usually wash a lot by hand instead of wasting energy, soap, etc. I'm presently at home with a back injury and no dishwasher! I can only stand for about 2 to 4 minutes and I'm "still" paying for the broken samsung. So far, the cost is $50.00 per washload! I called best buy for help. I wanted to trade this for a new dishwasher of a different brand. and they offered to take the unit away for me, while there, delivering my new purchase! I got angry and said, I couldn't find out it was defective before your time limit, I don't have that many dishes. They asked me if I'd bought the extended service plan and I got more angry. I said: Once you get it out the door, it's next customer? What happened to standing by your product? You're in this business, obviously, you know this is junk, "why" is it on your floor to sell to me? According to these bad reviews at: Consumer Complaints & Reviews, Samsung had denied, blamed and drug their feet at the customer's expense for months at a time in many cases. So my worst fears about trying to clean my dishes with my injury are coming true! "WHY" samsung? "WHY" best buy? I hope you have the "decency" to allow this review to be posted here, for the sake of your remaining customers, because I've taken myself off your mailing list and cutting up your so-called: "Elite" membership! Just in case you censor this review, I'll be posting it all over the internet, everywhere I can, until my undeserved punishment is repealed by you or samsung

My only problem with reviews is most folks only take the time to write bad ones to vent. I bought this unit about 1.5 years ago. Overall when people buy, Viking, Wolf or a BMW, MB... they are forgetting that these are premium products pushing the envelope in terms of performance and features. These trend setters often test out what works years ahead of `mass market'. For perfect reliability and average form buy the middle never the top. Just don't forget 5K is still upper middle. Built ins run 12k and up in some cases. Astatically I love how this unit goes from the floor to ceiling giving the built in look. Its hard to find a flush counter depth which fits like a glove. This looks like a 10k unit at half the price. Any stainless appliance is hard to keep clean. Working in a kitchen for 8 years we wiped down appliances throughout the night and every night we polish all the equipment. I never understood why the consumer market wanted the commercial look. When entertaining I am constantly complimented by the appearance. Few counter depths have this much storage or can fit a pizza easily on the shelves. The interior lighting is one of the best but that is just an opinion. My only ding is the freezer light is on the fridge door. Occasionally I leave both open while unloading supplies. As such, the fridge is internally lit the freezer is lit from the underside of the door thus underwhelming. Functionally The freezer drawers work well rather than digging to the back to find green beans which have been frozen for 5 years with my older units. The machine is silent. I have a dedicated gourmet kitchen with eating area. I wanted silence when running the dishwasher and when the fridge kicks on. This was HUGE draw for me with this unit. While the dual compressors keep the food at a constant temp I hardly know when it kicks on. The additional fan mode keeps air moving to reduce moister as is a problem with many of the new fridges. I opted for the internal icemaker. While I sacrifice some storage cubes use filtered water (pretty much standard now) and are good size. I have yet to run out or have any issues with the icemaker. Mechanically I am very pleased. The Bosch, and Miele were the two alternatives I had looked at. If you look at the design of the dual compressors the lack of variation keeps food fresher longer. I learned while doing my research that cheaper units tend to vary more in temperature. Some friends have knocked this as a faux performance issue but at 33 you have water at 32 ice. A slight degree variation makes a large difference with respect to bacteria, and the cells in meats and veggies. I have noticed better food storage when compared to my $1700 fridge which is now in the basement kitchenette. I have not yet had a problem with the alarm yet but I have left the door open and been woken up at night by the beeping. Simply pressing the silence button and closing the door has saved me more than a few loads of groceries. I bought from a reputable local buyer who handles complaints so I have no fears when/if something should go wrong with the unit.

First of all, you will need to buy CERTIFIED APPLIANCE STMKIT2 Braided Steam Dryer Installation Kit, Stainless Steel and 2 Certified Appliance WM48SS Braided Washing Machine Connector, Stainless for hot and cold water to the washer and hot to the dryer! I actually bought 2 6' hoses for more room. Will have to re-post after we get a chance to use it. Dryer came DOA. Called Maytag for service and first person I spoke with was rude and told me I would not get a full year warranty because she had my purchase date as 10/22/2017 instead of 2/14/2018 when I purchased from Amazon because I should have bought it locally and not from Amazon. I asked for a supervisor and she gave me an email address to send a copy of my invoice to so I could get the purchase date corrected. The supervisor was very helpful and got a repairman out to service my dryer the same day! I am waiting on a part to come in next Tuesday to fix the dryer. They said a sensor was bad on the heating element that prevents it from getting electricity. I bought extended warranties from Maytag on both while on the phone given that it came DOA. UPDATE: Part came in as promised on following Tuesday, was installed and worked! Finally got to do some laundry. Firstly, I am amazed at how quiet both the washer and dryer are. Secondly, these handle large loads well. We washed large fluffy quilts and comforters easily as well as bed and throw pillows. The results are excellent in terms of cleanliness and softness of fabrics. Curtains came out clean, soft and wrinkle free on normal wash. Finally, my acid test. We have a set of lime green beach, bath and face towels with matching wash cloths that had turned slightly brown over the years from dirt that just would not come out. I washed these on the Power wash setting with heavy soil and steam for stains turned on. Either they would come out clean or I would throw away the whole set. The wash cycle took 2 hours and 15 minutes, but the results were amazing! All are lime green again without any hint of brown and feel very soft. My wife loves the pedestals as this is much less bending and stooping as well as being able to store all laundry stuff away making the wash are look very clean and organized. She also says lint practically falls off the dryer lint trap very easily. The washer door stays just ajar enough to allow ventilation without being in the way all the way open. The controls are a little complex to get used to so I printed out the three pages of the cycle settings and set on top of the washer as a handy reference until we get used to them. For all of this, I am raising my review to five stars in spite of the dryer arriving DOA. Again Maytag fixed it quickly and at no cost.

My refrigerator came with the main cabinet portion with a slight twist that makes the doors twist to conform. From the side the one door sticks out at the top 1/4 to 5/16 inch and the opposite on the bottom. I contacted GE. The first tech was super rude and tried to steam the gasket around the door to somehow straighten the whole refrigerator out. The tech said it was in tolerance because it was less than 3/16" off. I said how would you know as you never measured it. He said he can tell. I told him I measured it and it is off between 1/4" and 5/16". He said said it looks like less that 3/16" now (after steaming) so it is in tolerance so there is nothing they can do about it. The next guy came and replaced the door but not the gasket and there was no improvement (still off 1/4" to 5/16"). I had them come out again but they never called so the appointment never happened. I contacted Customer Relations instead of Repair and they said I needed to have a tech come out to verify the doors not fitting right, they cannot be repaired, and to give the case number and phone number to the tech so they could call and initiate a return. The first (rude) tech came out and after I told him he had been out three weeks earlier, he corrected me and said he was never at my home (obvious lie). Then, even though he said he was never at my home and had yet to see the refrigerator, he said he already called tech support and they said they are not going to do anything about it. I said informed him of the call with Customer Relations that he needed to verify the difference in the doors, see if it can be fixed, and call the number and let them know what you found. He let me know that he is not going to do any of that because they already determined that GE is not going to do anything. I let the Customer Relations person know and they sounded like they were surprised/disappointed it went that way. Next appointment, the tech acknowledged the doors are off, they cannot be repaired and he was going to call the number as provided. He explained that they changed the manufacturing process and the refrigerators have no frame...they are just injected with foam and how every they line up is what they are. He said it used to be they could repair these but now they cannot be fixed, whereas they could be previously. Next up, an email from GE Customer Relations stating that TAG (whatever that is) said, the twisted refrigerator and the doors that don't align (my words) are cosmetic issues and are not covered by warranty. I would not expect it to be a warranty issue as it was shipped as a manufacturer' defect. By the way, the ice maker drops ice in the freezer compartment continuously. I see GE has no interest in quality or employing anyone from the United States. They just sell their garbage here.

I was so excited to receive this product. I had been dreaming of an induction range for years and when we updated our kitchen I thought the time was right. It was a little slow in arriving, but that was just a lesson in patience for me. Two days after it arrived we had modified the cabinet space for it so it would fit and I started cooking on it. I was blown away. So fast. Water started to boil in a fairly large pot in less than a minute and was at full boil in three minutes. I love how easy the cooktop is to clean. Matching the pans to the correct diameter cooking area is easy because you have four different sizes to choose from. The convection oven takes a little getting used to. The waves of heat coming out of the door when I opened it were surprising. And it took forever for it to cool down. I checked and rechecked the controls because it felt like the oven was still on. When I used the oven as a conventional oven I didn't have that problem. Also, a cookie sheet actually blew over the edge of the oven rack when I opened the door using convection. I will probably use the oven in the conventional mode more. It heats up much more quickly than the convection mode too. I say I will probably use that feature because I don't know what will happen after the service technician gets here next week. I read so many reviews on this range and most were good. There will always be some bad reviews, but I wish I had paid more attention and definitely wish I had purchased it locally so I could return it. Just eight days after it arrived the cooktop failed, in the middle of cooking breakfast. The lights came on and blinked and then shut off. Later the same day it was working fine. Still later the problem had returned. Eight days! And during that time we were out of town for three days so it didn't get used at all while we traveled. So really this very expensive induction range lasted all of 5 days and very few meals. I could not be more disappointed. GE will be sending a service technician out next week, but in the meantime, we have no way to cook. Thank heaven that we have a microwave and a toaster oven that can handle most jobs. I would not recommend this range to anyone. Take the bad reviews to heart and stay away! UPDATE: While the GE service man was here we discovered that the problem wasn't in the range, but in the plan placement. By moving a pan less than a quarter of an inch it caused the burner to "catch" or "lose" the pan. You need to be VERY aware of pan size and placement on the top of the range. This can result in not being able to use all the burners if you don't have exactly the right size pan to fit. Yesterday I had to use a much bigger pan than I needed because the smallest burner was already taken and the next size burner would not recognize a small pan. This is explained in the owner's manual, but I didn't realize how precise the size of each pan on each burner has to be. I will probably need to buy a few more pots and pans to accommodate the various size burners.

We got off to a bad start with this washer when it wouldn't even complete one load after it was installed. Then my husband read the manual and discovered that the delivery guys had installed the drain hose incorrectly and it was siphoning. We called them back to re-install and it has worked fine ever since. They said that this brand has a quirk to installing that part, so I would advise anyone buying this machine to pay close attention to that part of the installation to ensure proper functioning. I've had the machine now for about 10 days and I've done about a dozen loads of various sizes, types, and soil levels. I've been using Nellie's detergent, which I love. That combined with this machine means my items have been really clean and I'm thrilled with it so far. Haven't had to run even one item through on a second pass yet. It's efficient, cleans the clothes beautifully, has lots of features, and looks sleek. I got rid of our previous pair not because they were broken, but because the washer was really loud-- you could hear it in every corner of our 4,000 ft2 house when it was spinning. We have a baby on the way, so I realized nobody was ever going to sleep if we didn't get a new one. I have been absolutely thrilled with this F&P machine's low noise level. If I close the door to the laundry room, you can't hear a thing anywhere else in the house. A couple times I forgot that it was running, and was startled by the noise when I went into the laundry room for something during the cycle. Just what I was looking for! A couple of things I don't love about the machine, but are not enough to keep me from recommending it are these. It has gotten off balance twice since I've had it-- once during a load of sheets and once during a load with the cushions from the dog beds-- bulky items. The machine stops (does not try to correct itself as some machines do) and sounds an alarm to get your attention to remedy the situation. I was upset about it at first, but then I read the manual and see that I could have loaded the items differently and selected a different cycle and maybe it wouldn't have happened, so I'm going to wait to try those items again to make my final judgment. I also don't like the locking lid. I realize it's intended to keep children safe and I should appreciate that. But I frequently realize there is one more item I want to add and prefer to just be able to toss it in quickly. There is a pause button on this machine that will unlock the lid, but because of the dual tub design, you lose a little water every time you open it and it increases the cycle time also. I guess I'm going to have to learn to round up every wash item and get them all in there at the beginning. So far so good with this machine. I have to wait to see what the long-term durability is like and if more problems arise with time, but I'm hoping I just love it more!

For those of you that are experiencing the "thump-thump... thump-thump... thump-thump..." problem that the Samsung DV350AEW/XAA dryer is plagued with, it's a cracked seam, either on the front or back of the drum. I thought it was bad bearings on the rollers, so I replaced those, only to discover a cracked drum was the issue. ...for a 1000+ owners of this dryer. Overall the dryer is okay, it's SAMSUNG that is the POS in the equation. DON'T BUY SAMSUNG products! Okay, on to how to replace the drum without paying half the original cost of the dryer, or in my case 90% of cost. Got it 50% off on BF... The DC97-14849C is an exact replacement, for $139, incl s&h, and you can find it at Sears Parts Direct. In case Amazon blocks out the previously mentioned retailer, which they shouldn't since Amazon doesn't offer it, you will need to use your favorite search engine to find it. Hint: They sell Craftsman, and Roebuck used to be part of their title. Caveat, I had to wait 6 weeks for it to arrive. There's a YT video on how to install the drum, which regardless your mechanical skill level, you should be able to DIY in an hour, or less. Pay attention to the sound deadening strips on the drum when you remove it, they have 2 different color outlines. The reddish was towards the back on mine. Yours may differ. Probably the best way to orientate the drum is to measure from the front of the drum to the belt track on the old drum, then compare that to the replacement drum (which I did not do). I just compared them side-by-side... The sound deadening strips on the DC97-14849C are shorter, which if I had to guess, implies that the drum thickness is greater than the OEM stainless "Cracks-a-lot" drum, thus the need for less sound deadening. Could be SAMSUNG cheaped out, again. FYI, nothing comes in contact with these strips. The DC97-14849C is ceramic coated WHITE steel, NOT stainless. And in case you'e wondering, the "fins" do come attached with the new DC97-14849C. Although, if they didn't, it would tack on an additional 10 minutes of install time if you had to swap them out to the new one. Today is the first day using the DC97-14849C drum, and so far so good. Hopefully it buys me 10+ years of continued service, like the old school dryers did back in the day. Hopefully the matching SAMSUNG washer holds out as well. Doubtful, as front loader washers have their issues. Too much upkeep to prevent molding and smell. They do look pretty... but that stank, if you don't leave the door open for at least 2 days. Am I right?

We have a mid-century styled kitchen, quality built with Steel St. Charles cabinetry. It has 2 ovens in a raised island. We had held off on updating the ovens for 5 years and when one of our existing 40 year old oven failed, we knew we had to take action. We wanted to stay away from common American brands due to less than savory experiences with them. From a style perspective, the Smeg seemed the best choice by far. Face it, the thing looks cool! Vanity over function is typically out of character for us, but in this case, the oven has all of the features one really needs in an oven and it leaves out all of the fluff that is really not necessary. Then it came to the price. WOW! I am not a cheapskate, but i was having a hard time choking down the 4k plus price tag to get 2 ovens. End story is that we found several reputable online retailers that had the oven for sale and then found one used one on Amazon from a private party. Through various emails and even a couple of phone calls, we learned that the used one was essentially new so we purchased it. This would save us a thousand dollars on this project. Well, it turns out that the used one was listed incorrectly. The seller had listed it as Smeg FU655. When we received the oven it was discovered that it was an F655. This is the European model. The wiring is different and although the seller claims that it was installed in their US home, we decided that we should send it back to her rather than risk it. So... I ended up purchasing 2 new Smeg FU655 ovens. To the review: The things are like works of art in the kitchen, simply stunning to look at. We have a pretty active kitchen and we use both ovens nearly daily. We continue to tweak our processes and take notes along the way on which settings work best for different applications. Hopefully they will last for a long time and we will not have to repeat the process again while we are living in this house. If there were anything I wish I would have known about the oven prior to purchasing, it would have been the noise level. There is a fan that runs whenever the oven is on. This fan cools the door cavity and there is a bit of air discharge out of the top and bottom of the door. Another fan inside the oven runs when one of the convection modes is selected, but the inside fan is virtually silent compared to the main fan. The door fan continues to operate after the oven is turned off. I guess I don't know if this would have kept us from purchasing the Smeg, but had somebody mentioned the noise factor, I would probably have been more inclined to seek out this oven and other comparable ovens that were hooked up and operating in a showroom or home to witness the noise level 1st hand.

This fridge is visually pleasing and the lights/shelf layouts are fine. It does fit into the exact space our old Sub Zero 632 took up and is very quiet. That's where the good stuff ends. Unfortunately, the support is absolutely terrible (especially if you buy from Amazon: Samsung would not even deal with me on my icemaker that is taking a week to fill up because "in the first 30 days you can only deal with the seller"). We bought this through "Home Care Company" and dealing with them has been a nightmare. Despite promising inside delivery, they did not provide it and took weeks to respond. The unit was over a week late from the "worst case scenario". The dispenser light is set to "auto" but seems to have no rhyme or reason to when or why it turns off. Sometimes it'll stay on, and sometimes it goes off after a second or two even if we're still actively drawing ice or water. The speaker for playing Pandora doesn't deliver very good sound quality - it sounds like music playing from a tin cup. Why they even bothered putting sound in this thing is beyond me. Further the "epicurious" app which I thought would be a great addition simply doesn't work. I learned from searching this issue that something changed in November and has not been updated even as of August 2016 (I doubt they're going to fix this) - so you've got a display showing the icon and the app that errors out every time you try to use it. The items that you put in the back row near the cold air vents will freeze. We've got ours set at 42 degrees, and everything in the back row has ice crystals, so that third of the fridge is unusable unless you're okay with having iced milk. Beyond that, if you set the freezer below -10, your icemaker just won't make ice. It has to be set at the very coldest setting to be able to keep up with even limited family demand. Fast forward to this freezer's 2nd year in service, and it's making my 3 year old very happy since Frozen's Elsa is living inside and turning the whole freezer into the frozen north Mountain. From googling this problem, it looks like it's either due to a frozen drain line, or cracked water valve. Seriously? Second year in service, and already it's flooding the freezer and everything in it and creating a winter wonderland that block of ice that has all of our frozen food stuck to the shelves and to itself. What a friggin mess. Spent 2 hours last night with a hairdryer just trying to melt enough ice to get things out of that freezer into a different freezer, and haven't had time to actually address the problem. Terrible quality, Samsung! How does something this expensive get built so cheaply?! No wonder people are willing to pay 10-20 grand for a sub zero.

Excellent quality bearings. After my front load Frigidaire started to make more noise when spinning, I knew what the problem was because I had the same problem about 10 years ago and had a local appliance service department put in a new rear shell piece that included the bearings. They told me it was a one piece unit and bearings were not available separately. I was on the phone with Frigidaire for over an hour and ended up getting the parts for free, but paid the repairman $175.00 to install the part. You basically need to more or less take the entire washer apart to remove the tub casing, remove all the bolts holding the two parts together, split the shell, remove the stainless steel interior tub, and then remove the old bearings and install the new ones. All went quite well actually, except for one thing that I wish to give everyone who reads this a hint on. I had the most trouble getting the stainless steel tub spindle post out of the old bearings. I lubricated the tub post where it meets the bearing with penetrating oil and pounded and pounded with a piece of wood between the spindle and my 3, and at one point my 4 pound hammer. Wouldn't move a bit. I'll bet I gave it 200 whacks over a few hours....so much so my arm was sore...lol. Didn't move a bit. I went online and googled this problem a simple solution was suggested by one service person that I tried and it worked very easily. Simply lift up the rear shell of the tub, with the stainless steel tub post pointing toward the floor (install the bolt back into the post to protect the end so you can get the pulley back on later in reassembly) and drop it straight down from about 3" (that's 3 inches or a couple inches more, NOT 3 feet) above a cement floor (basement/garage floor). I did this 5 times and the 5th time it popped lose easily. After all that pounding I couldn't believe that I had it lose in less than 60 seconds with five 3" drops. It was amazing. After that, I knocked out the old seal and bearings, drove (don't ever pound directly on the bearings, use a piece of wood between your hammer and the bearing, and only on the edge of the new bearing) the new bearings and seal in, and reassembled the tub in the washer and it now spins with little or no added noise....like it did when new. Took me a total of about 5 hours to do the entire job, from tearing the machine down, to putting a load of clothes in to try it out. Considering I would have ended up scrapping the machine and buying a new one if I hadn't embarked on this project, I figure I spent $75.00 rather than $1000, so I worked for 5 hours and essentially earned approximately $185.00 per hour for my efforts. Not bad for a Saturday, right ?

<div id="video-block-R3EVJSJA9FQE6U" class="a-section a-spacing-small a-spacing-top-mini video-block"></div><input type="hidden" name="" value="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/B1UCS0hLzNS.mp4" class="video-url"><input type="hidden" name="" value="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/A1trmQlmAxS.png" class="video-slate-img-url">&nbsp;&nbsp;UPDATE: I have upped my review to 4 stars due to the service received. See my previous review below for the back story. I contacted the seller regarding the demons. They responded within 24 hours and worked with me on the solution since I had already installed and altered it. They offered a refund or repair parts. I opted for the parts since I am pretty handy and they said it was a relatively easy swap. They sent me a new circuit board and control panel to install which arrived in a few days. I just installed them today and it now works. Hopefully that will last, but at this price and this service I am very pleased. By the way, it was the control panel, not the circuit board that was FUBAR. If it keeps working I will upgrade to 5 stars. Previous Review: I didn't expect much for the price and was not disappointed. It is OK, but has flaws not the least of which is possession by demons. First, it arrived damaged. A slight bending of the housing which resulted in some rivets being popped out. So A) damaged and 2) weak rivets. But, I wasn't worried as I was doing an outdoor application and would need to mod it a bit anyway. Second, very weak frame work. It sags when hung on the wall by the two mounting holes. This is because the lower section is too heavy for the internal support. Now that may have been exacerbated by the damage in shipping, but again I am doing an alternative install so I was able to add some long supports for the front. Finally, the Possession (tm). It likes to turn it's lights on an off randomly. Appliances get lonely and sometimes they just need a little attention but it does get old. I have attached a video of the demons at work. It could be a defective remote just firing all the time, but doesn't seem likely. More tests will ensue and I will see if I hear from the manufacturer. But it is installed and I really don't want to go through the hassle of a return. For my application it was worth the $200 even if I have to gut the electronics and install toggle switches, but if you are looking for something more reliable and won't suddenly spew green slime and attempt to eat your children you probably want to spend some more $$ on a brand name.

We purchased the RFA 365 - 36" oven and have had two control boards go out in less than a month. The most recent "outage" was at last nights homemade pizza party with 6 hungry kids sharing the first and only pizza that was in the hot oven when the board failed! When we purchased the oven from a local distributor the oven went straight into our garage for nine months while we completed our kitchen remodel. Once ready to install our electrician had to wire the outlet for the unit since it is wired for European electric, once done the unit was turned on. The stove top worked but oven clock failed to light up and if this doesn't work the oven will not fire up. We imeadiatley called the service line and with the direction of the Fagor rep our electrician verified power was correctly wired and metered correctly. All was good electrically and done right. The rep quickly determined the control board was bad and needed to be replaced with another, of course he told us it was on back order and would be awhile before it arrived. Two months later the new board arrived and one week later a service tech arrived and replaced the board. The unit finally worked. The stove top has always worked and seems to do a really nice job of even cooking which is nice if you are into cooking as we are. Once the oven was back working we were happy with the overall performance although it ran about 50 degrees hotter than its setting so we placed a thermometer inside the oven to know the heat. The rotisserie was used once and it did a nice job although I would not have anything heavier than 3-4 pound chicken on the spit since the metal is rather light weight. The handled on the door is loose on one side and is a concern because access to the screw holding the handle in place is behind glass adhered to the metal door frame, I suppose the tech replacing our next board will be able to do something to tighten it although he may not. As the first and only pizza was in the oven I turned away for a few minutes and came back and noticed the blue lights for the clock were out on the face of the oven...I rolled my eyes and knew what to expect, the oven was officially out again! I called and left a voice message with Fagor because of course it was 7 PM on a Friday night so no help was coming anytime soon. I told myself at the time we ordered the first board to have a second one sent because if something is on back order there is reason. I did not do this and sure enough the board is in need of replacement. Something is wrong with the Fagor board so I would be wary of buying anything Fagor again. I imagine to keep costs down they source cheaper electronics for use in their products and as a result the boards fry and then nothing works. Overall performance was good but if the thing doesn't turn on then it can't be used so it gets a zero rating.

Don't... buy a Bosch induction cooktop until Bosch explains the conditions that cause the cooktop to automatically shut off at some arbitrary time during use. This applies to the 500-series, 800-series and Flexinduction models. I discovered this can happen while reading manuals during my web research on induction cooktops. Here are the respective web pages and page numbers advising of this stipulation in each model's "Use and Care" manual: 500-series: [...] (page 14) 800-series: [...] (page 16) Flexinduction: [...] (page 15) I called Bosch Customer Support 5 times over a two-week period and each time talked to a different rep including a Support Supervisor on my last call. I asked for an explanation about the specific circumstances under which the cooktop would shut off. I cited several examples of cooking situations where one would not want the cooktop to "just turn off" on its own. On my last 4 conversations with Bosch support reps, I was told they would research the issue and "get back to me with an answer". Well, they didn't get back to me, and I still don't have an answer. The support people don't know, and further, they told me they don't communicate with Bosch engineering (who certainly would know the answer). How strange is that? But I was copied on an email from a Bosch Senior Support Representative to "an unknown at Bosch". The email contained the following exact wording from one of the manuals: "Automatic time limitation: If the element is used for prolonged periods of time without changes in the settings being made, the automatic time limitation function is triggered. The element stops heating. "F8" and the residual heat indicator "H/h" flash alternately in the display. The indicator goes out when any symbol is pressed. The element can now be reset. When the automatic time limitation is activated depends on the selected heat level (from 1 to 10 hours)." The email also briefly revealed that "a customer" (me) wanted to know the conditions that can cause the cooktop to shut off, but didn't offer any relevant explanations. Whatsoever! I was told by a couple of support reps that the cooktop turns off for "safety reasons" but no other details were offered. Safety reasons? Really? Does that mean the cooktops are nearing a dangerous state? Are these Bosch cooktops the only cooktops ever made that turn off "for safety reasons" Maybe, but if so, I'm not aware of any others. I hope I am not alone in thinking Bosch needs to inform prospective customers exactly what conditions can trigger these (expensive) cooktops to shut off? Or better yet, just make a cooktop that doesn't arbitrarily turn off. Bottom line is, buy one of these Bosch cooktops only if you are willing to risk it automatically turning off sometime between "1 and 10 hours". Or, if you'd be content to just stand watch over it to be sure it stays on while you're cooking a corned-beef for 4-5 hours. Bosch engineers take notice!

Don't... buy a Bosch induction cooktop until Bosch explains the conditions that cause the cooktop to automatically shut off at some arbitrary time during use. This applies to the 500-series, 800-series and Flexinduction models. I discovered this can happen while reading manuals during my web research on induction cooktops. Here are the respective web pages and page numbers advising of this stipulation in each model's "Use and Care" manual: 500-series: [...] (page 14) 800-series: [...] Flexinduction: [...] I called Bosch Customer Support 5 times over a two-week period and each time talked to a different rep including a Support Supervisor on my last call. I asked for an explanation about the specific circumstances under which the cooktop would shut off. I cited several examples of cooking situations where one would not want the cooktop to "just turn off" on its own. On my last 4 conversations with Bosch support reps, I was told they would research the issue and "get back to me with an answer". Well, they didn't get back to me, and I still don't have an answer. The support people don't know and further, they told me they don't communicate with Bosch engineering (who certainly would know the answer). How strange is that? But I was copied on an email from a Bosch Senior Support Representative to "an unknown at Bosch". The email contained the following exact wording from one of the manuals: "Automatic time limitation If the element is used for prolonged periods of time without changes in the settings being made, the automatic time limitation function is triggered. The element stops heating. "F8" and the residual heat indicator "H/h" flash alternately in the display. The indicator goes out when any symbol is pressed. The element can now be reset. When the automatic time limitation is activated depends on the selected heat level (from 1 to 10 hours)." The email also briefly revealed that "a customer" (me) wanted to know the conditions that can cause the cooktop to shut off, but didn't offer any relevant explanations. Whatsoever! I was told by a couple of support reps that the cooktop turns off for "safety reasons" but no other details were offered. Safety reasons? Really? Does that mean the cooktops are nearing a dangerous state? Are these Bosch cooktops the only cooktops ever made that turn off "for safety reasons" Maybe, but if so, I'm not aware of any others. I hope I am not alone in thinking Bosch needs to inform prospective customers exactly what conditions can trigger these (expensive) cooktops to shut off? Or better yet, just make a cooktop that doesn't arbitrarily turn off. Bottom line is, buy one of these Bosch cooktops only if you are willing to risk it automatically turning off sometime between "1 and 10 hours". Or, if you'd be content to just stand watch over it to be sure it stays on while you're cooking a corned-beef for 4-5 hours. Bosch engineers take notice!

We bought the Samsung RH299000SR side by side refrigerator on 6/26/14, during the 4th of July sales. It was delivered, at our request, on July 7th. The refrigerator design is elegant, sleek and modern. The handles are flush with the doors which gives it an interesting cleaner look. The refrigerator door has the Showcase feature which is like a double door allowing access to items in the door by opening the Showcase door cover, without having to open the door to the main compartment. PROS: the space in the showcase door is very roomy and flexible. It has 3 shelves with dividers, 2 open drawers with dividers (you can roll them out when the Showcase is open) and a shallow bottom shelf. All dividers can be moved out of the way to allow full use of the space. The Ice maker is really efficient and the ice bucket has a great capacity. The bucket is easy to remove from the door for maintenance or just to empty and save the ice into another container. The electronic controls for the basic functions are easy to use. The interior led illumination is bright and very effective. CONS: We don't know how the ice dispenser works because ours was defective. The flap to allow the ice to exit worked but the motor to turn the ice didnt. The one sided handles are very awkward and counter intuitive. You have to use your left hand or twist your right wrist to open the refrigerator door on the right. It is not obvious which part of the refrigerator handle to pull to open the main door of the refrigerator or just the Showcase door. It will take time, practice and frustration for it to become second nature. The compartments of the showcase door do not keep temperatures consistent with the interior of the refrigerator. The temperature at the bottom shelf was more than 50 degrees and slightly progressively cooler on the others depending on their position. The refrigerator door with the Showcase feature is very heavy to operate even when empty. If you don't guide it gently when closing it, it slams. There are only 2 drawers in the refrigerator and one of them is not full size. The freezer has four shelves and only 2 drawers, a third one would be more convenient. The actual consumption of the water filter is not displayed, only when it is exhausted an indicator will turn on. My 12 years old Kenmore showed the percent left on the water filter life. Conclusion: Based on the awkwardness and temperature control problem of the Showcase door of the side by side, the ice dispenser malfunction and the other issues we decided to return it to the seller. We replaced it with Samsungs 4 door RF30HBEDBSR model on July 30th. It has 2 french doors with Showcase in one of them, a Cool zone drawer and a spacious freezer drawer. I have been monitoring the temperature in the different compartments of the refrigerator, the doors, the Cool zone drawer and the freezer and everything is fine. The Ice maker and dispenser work well. We will have a more comprehensive review of this model when we have more time to evaluate it, but, as of now, we believe it was the right decision.

I can't seem to get a simple answer to a simple question about this Bosch 4-burner 30" gas cooktop, model NGM5055UC. The question is: Can this cooktop be used during a power outage, by lighting the burners with a match? I am thinking of switching from an electric cooktop to gas, and the only reason for doing this is if the cooktop can be used when the power goes out (which it does pretty often around here, sometimes for days). The problem is that I've gotten lots of answers, and they're all over the map. The owner's manual that goes with Bosch cooktops (8 different models) says: "During a power failure, only the cooktop burners can be lit manually." That "only" puzzled me, since this manual applies specifically to cooktops, not to stoves with ovens (ovens definitely cannot be used during a power outage). So I asked my question on Amazon. The first reply was "This unit has an electronic ignition, so in order to use the unit during a power failure you would need to manually light the burner." "Manually" presumably means using a match, rather than one's hands (by rubbing real hard on the burner?), but it didn't sound like the party who replied had ever actually tried it, so I asked again on Amazon. The second time I was told "unfortunately there is a safety feature built into this cooktop that is an automatic shut off and a match will not work to light the unit when power is out." What's weird about these contradictory replies is that both were signed "Goedekers" (evidently a dealer). So I continued my research by asking my question in a chat on the Lowe's website. The reply was "Yes, it can be used during a power failure. No problem." I even phoned the manufacturer -- you would think they would know, wouldn't you? The first time I phoned, I spoke to someone who didn't know the answer. She said "Just a minute, I'll have to ask," and then I was disconnected. The second time I spoke to Chuck, who told me no, it wouldn't work during a power outage, but it turned out he was basing his reply on a single phone call he had from a dissatisfied customer. I asked if I could speak to someone who knew more about the way this particular cooktop was constructed, and he took my number and said someone would get back to me, but they never did. So I am baffled. I was planning to buy this cooktop, but I don't want it if it won't work during a power outage. Isn't there someone out there who actually owns this 4-burner 30" Bosch gas cooktop, model NGM5055UC, and who has actually used it, or tried unsuccessfully to use it, during a power outage?

My wife is a passionate chef. We love cooking on gas. Before we decided on a cook-top, we looked at the high end&nbsp;<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/Thermador-SGSX365FS-36-Masterpiece-Gas-Cooktop-Stainless/dp/B001F86EW4/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">Thermador : SGSX365FS 36 Masterpiece Gas Cooktop Stainless</a>&nbsp;. What made this gas cook-top famous is the simmering, (low flame) of 250 BTU. It has also a star shaped burner, that heats uniformly. Thermador is number one rated in gas cooktop in Consumer Reports and the model is at least three years old. The reliability of this high end appliance 8 in a 100 (according to consumer reports) There is a video on how to clean a Thermador. Search youtube. It requires a toothpick (careful not to break it when cleaning the burner) cotton swabs and lots of patience. Considering cleaning after each use... For some reason, Bosch cooktops are not reviewed on Consumer Reports. But in the reliability graph of Thermador, Bosch cooktops are #1 with 4 in 100 failures. The model&nbsp;<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/Bosch-NGM8055UC800-30-34-Stainless-Steel-Gas-Sealed-Burner-Cooktop/dp/B00JDB5TO4/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">Bosch NGM8055UC800 30" Stainless Steel Gas Sealed Burner Cooktop</a>&nbsp;has 18,000 BTU maximum flame ans 550 BTU simmering and costs half the Thermador price. Many people may buy this Bosch cooktop for its' beauy, but it is easy to clean and twice as reliable as Thermador. Please watch the video on how to clean it and compare The Bosch NGMP655UC: 36" Gas Cooktop Benchmark started selling since April 2016. It is an absolute beauty, with a central burner that gives 20,000 BTU maximum flame that goes to a minimum of 400 BTU simmering. I don't think any human will notice the difference from 400 BTU to 250 BTU in real life. And this model is 40% lower priced than Thermador. There is the emotional reaction. The installer - who installed almost all models of appliances was evidently impressed with the Bosch Benchmark model. This cooktop. changed our kitchen without changing anything else. Nobody knows the future. But the feeling of exhilaration and sheer pleasure that an object can bring you home the joy of having something new. The only other company that has similar success in User Design. is Apple computer. You don't want a restaurant gas cooktop. Because your home is not a restaurant. You want finesse, beauty and ability to cook anything the restaurant cooks with the same precision and taste.

This is the most terrible washing machine I have ever used. BEWARE! STAY AWAY from any top-loading washing machine that does not have a center agitator. IT DOES NOT GET YOUR CLOTHES CLEAN. Instead, it inspires feelings of hatred, frustration, anger, loathing, and revulsion because it simply does not do the main and only thing that it is made for (washing clothes). This machine has a silver sensor in the center of the bottom of the machine, and you have to arrange your clothes around the sensor and make sure you do not cover up the sensor. Fine, no problem, I can do that. In fact, I am VERY purposeful about knowing the instructions in detail for how to appropriately use the washer. The user's manual says, "Load dry items loosely in the washer basket. For best results, load items evenly and loosely around the outside of the basket." However, no matter how exactly you make sure that you arrange the clothes perfectly and use the precise amount of the correct High Efficiency soap, this washer WILL NOT WORK. At the end of EVERY cycle over the past 5-6 months, I consistently experience all of these problems: Clothes are not clean Odor is not removed Certain portions of various articles of clothing never even got wet 1-2 items per load have large, slimy sections where they are still coated with soap (even doing an extra rinse) Another negative is that the washer is HUGE and looks like it has a giant capacity, but you cannot put many clothes in it because once you arrange them to a certain height, they start to fall down into the middle and cover the sensor. The user's manual gives the following example of items for a "normal" load: 6 Shirts (Mens or Womens) 4 Pair Pants (Khakis or Twills) 5 T-shirts 7 Pairs of Boxers 4 Pairs of Shorts OR 6 T-shirts 4 Pairs of Sweatpants 4 Sweatshirts 2 Hoodies 7 Pairs of Socks When you put that much into the basket, it only fills it about a fourth of the way up, but if you put any more into the load, the results and cleanliness go correspondingly downhill. I have used a very wide range of washing machines over the years - top loading, front loading, laundromats, etc. In general, despite variations in quality and modern cycle options, I have had no reason to complain about any of them. This washer, on the other hand, is so frustratingly, ridiculously USELESS that even though I have a washer in the house, I have to go to a laundromat if I am going to get my clothes clean. The accompanying photo shows the sleeve of my coat after the completion of the "Bulky Items" cycle. I immediately put it back in on the "Heavy Soil" cycle and it came out just as dirty, at which point I gave up and put it in the dryer and went to post this review.

After a just over a year of use it's time to give my review. It arrived well packaged and installed easily enough. The igniter works by pressing down on the burner know you want to light and it actually turns on the igniters for all 5 burners. By turning the knob it release gas to that burner and in theory it lights and you are ready to cook. First problem was that only 1 of the burners would stay lit and that was after a few minutes of coaxing. It has a safety feature and will only light after a certain amount of time, I believe it was 30 seconds according to the manual but I was lucky if I could get it to stay lit after 3 minutes. The other 4 burners would not even produce a flame. After hours of research and attempts to clean this or that I contacted the seller and was given the option to simply replace the igniters and they would send them no problem. I agreed and a week or so later they came. I replaced them and all the burners started to produce a flame. There were still two major problems. Sometimes they would light after holding the igniter down for a couple minutes or so. Sometimes you could hold it down for 5 minutes, it would lite but as soon as you let go of the igniter it went out. The big problem that was pretty scary is that the two lower burned would light sometimes and they leaked gas. They would lit and about 2 minutes later a loud boom could be hear and the cabinet doors would blow open. I contacted the seller again and they advised that I try and replace one more thing and if that didn't work we could have it replaced at no charge. I replaced the components they sent and nothing changed. Every contact attempt afterwards was ignored and I have not heard form them. We got the stove so we could some what get the center burner going after about 5 minutes and maybe the top left one but never more than two. Never had this problem with the old stove we replaced. Had someone come out and make sure it was installed correctly and for $65 they told me everything looked good. We have a service through our local gas utility provider that covers repairs on all our appliances. Have had them out on dryer, washer and oven and no problem with getting things fixed. On this cook top there is no serial number so our local utility provider will not cover the repairs. I won't get into what the old man with 25 yrs of appliance repair had to say about the quality of the cook top but never the less we were unable to get it repaired. Decided to go ahead and purchase another one locally and it's been working fine, not one issue. I see that some people have had good luck with these while others have had bad luck. Some level of problem is tolerable especially when purchasing on line and I am very patient. I am not telling anyone not to by or to boycott anyone I am simply telling you my experience so you are aware.

I needed to fill a space left by a leaky 42 inch vintage Wedgewood (time bomb) gas range in our circa 1930s historic homes kitchen. Since Im no gourmet cook, and an expensive pro style gas range was the last thing Id ever consider buying, I had to quickly become an expert on the subject. Turns out that these things can get really expensive. After the initial sticker shock wore off (it really hasn't worn off yet) I went online and found that a 36 inch Pro Style rig could easily fill the space left by the enormous Wedgewood. So I looked around for used ranges and nothing came up. I even looked at commercial pro gas ranges that were lower priced than most pro-style home ranges, but found that if you put one of those in your kitchen, your home instantly becomes uninsurable. So, after some extensive research; including reading dozens of online reviews, I came upon three all-gas options under four 4 grand: a Blue Star BlueStar Culinary Series RCS366BV2, a Bertazonni 36 Master Series MAS365GASXE01, and a Verona VEFSGG365NSS. The Blue Star was my favorite because it looked exactly like a clunky and rugged restaurant style range. The Bertazzoni Master Series was its polar opposite; very sleek and refined. For me, the Verona was a perfect blend of the two others. It looked slightly clunky and rugged, but also had a somewhat sleek and refined look as well. The reviews on all three models were very positive, and none had any fiddly electronic elements to deal with, but I was really leaning towards the Verona Heres what finally tipped the scales in the Veronas favor; I could get it on Amazon with ZERO sales tax and FREE shipping from the Home Care Company. The customer service from Home Care was top-notch and the range arrived earlier than expected. The professional and courteous delivery team rolled it right into my kitchen and unboxed it in front of me so I could inspect it for any damage. It came in flawless condition and was absolutely gorgeous. And it fit perfectly where the old Wedgewood had been. I had it hooked up by a local appliance pro and have been cooking on it ever since. It works beautifully, has awesome safety features, its five burners can accommodate any level of cooking expertise, and it makes our kitchen look AMAZING! Ive already gotten lots of compliments on this stove and I know that when I decide to resell my historic home, my kitchen will have that WOW factor buyers will be looking for. 3/14//2016 - I just wanted to add a quick update to my last review - this stove has really made cooking FUN again! Everyone who sees the rig just falls in love with it. We've just tested the convection oven and baked up an awesome quiche that came out better than PERFECT. And there's so much space underneath the rig that cleaning is a breeze. I'll admit that we're always a little apprehensive about cooking anything in or on it because it's so pristine and pretty, and we don't want to get it all dirty, but it cleans up very easily once we've finished using it. It's AWESOME... AWESOME...AWESOME!

My Whirlpool Duet Sport ht stopped at an unknown point in the wash cycle, displayed F24 error code, and left saturated clothes in the locked washer. It allowed me to cancel and run a rinse/spin cycle. It also would run a full cycle using cold water. According to Whirlpool's diagnostic guide attached inside the lower front panel (also available on-line), F24 is a water temperature sensor error, and could also mean an open heating element (infinite resistance). Comments at various web sites suggest a loose sensor connector or broken sensor wire is a common cause of this error. Others suggest unplugging the machine for 30 minutes and seeing if that clears the error. There is conflicting information on the web about the location of the sensor for Duet Sport ht. On my WFW8500SR00, it's in the back, near the bottom, and obvious once you remove the back panel. Of course, you will unplug the washer before opening it up. My time was limited, as is the space in my ridiculously-tiny laundry room. If I'm going to bend my no-longer 20-year-old body into the shapes required to get behind the washing machine, it's not going to be just for checking loose wires. I'm going to have whatever parts I'm likely to need if the wires are OK, so if I can successfully extricate myself, I only have to do it once, even if it means I buy spare parts I'll never use. There are two back panels, with the small upper one overlapping the lower. The top panel doesn't have to be removed -- just use a 1/4" nut driver to remove the screws holding the lower panel, including the row of screws common to both panels; the lower panel slides down. The plastic hose holder can stay. The panel has notches around some screws -- those screws stay. Two screws are in indentations. I suggest removing them last, and reinstalling them first, because they hold the panel on pretty well by themselves. The screw on the very bottom center is easy to miss. One of the on-line videos shows prying out the heater/sensor assembly. I didn't do that. Instead, I squeezed the temp sensor connector with my fingers and gently pulled it off, then used ordinary 6" slip-joint pliers to slowly rock the sensor out toward me. It didn't come easily, because the part exposed to water was coated with mineral deposits (our water is neither hard nor soft). I rubbed some automotive rubber lubricant on the new sensor, and it slid right into the rubber gasket that holds it -- soapy water would have worked just as well. I found no loose or broken wires. Without disconnecting any wires, I tested the heating element with an ohmmeter -- it was a healthy 15 ohms. Amazon's tool reported it didn't know whether this sensor fits my washer. It does, and other sites listed it as a match. I received a genuine Whirlpool part. Vendor was Amazon.

This review is not part of the Vine program nor was it sponsored in any other way. I bought this because the listing said "by Whirlpool". I didn't realize that what is pictured here and all over Amazon as the genuine Whirlpool / Maytag part is actually an after market part. If you are looking for an after market set you can save (currently) $4 by ordering this&nbsp;<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/Drum-Roller-with-Shaft-Replaces-Maytag-303373-12001541/dp/B006WNLUQM/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">Drum Roller with Shaft Replaces Maytag 303373 12001541</a>&nbsp;instead. They admit it is after market and cut you in on the savings. By the way, it is fairly rare for a repair to require any new shafts, or a left roller. The right side roller takes most of the abuse. Clean the old shaft well with a rag dampened with penetrating oil, then apply one drop of 20 weight oil before sliding the new roller on. While you are in there you should give the left roller the same treatment. Try not to flip the wheel around so that it will now turn the opposite way in case the wheel is worn with the shaft. In most cases your best bet is to purchase just one of the real-deal OEM rollers&nbsp;<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/Whirlpool-12001541-Drum-Roller-for-Dryer/dp/B0053Y2MU4/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">Whirlpool 12001541 Drum Roller for Dryer</a>. You might notice that the GENUINE roller, whose picture in any of these listings is as elusive as a picture of Sasquatch, uses more of a translucent plastic, where this wheel is white. Also, on the one side of the genuine wheel you can see four extra posts next to the hub where the plastic was injected and the posts cut off. What seller "Parts Appliance Chicago" sent me from this listing was two of the white washers, pictured in the lower left, none of the wavy / spring washers in the upper left, and no nut. But they did manage to send me two rollers! The seller was tricky because they sent a genuine FSP shaft in the bag to make it appear as if the whole set was FSP. The smell of cheap Chinese rubber gives it away. I doubt the OEM wheel is made of that garbage. Now the question is, did I receive two half decent ERP brand knock-offs, or did I get some real junk? I don't know. I will come back and update this if the rollers fall apart in the next year or two but I suppose by then this listing will be removed. UPDATE 1-16, the dryer is still functioning well with two of these no-name rollers.

This fits - among others - >>> 1964 Frigidaire Flair Custom Deluxe RCIB 645-2 > Surface burner INFINITE control SWITCH for 8 inch burner, 240 volts. > That will be the left rear big burner on RCIB 645-2 = infinite heat = which is simply a regular switch = which allows heat from low to high and everywhere in between, hence the name infinite. >>> (An infinite heat switch DIFFERS from "Low - Med - High switches, which provides only three heat settings) > Typically when a switch malfunctions, the surface element (burner) will not heat, or will remain on high in every position. >>> ALSO - speaking for ONLY FRIGIDAIRE RCIB 645-2 stoves = This Frigidaire 5309957099 is also the correct switch for the RIGHT FRONT 8" burner = IF THE ELEMENT (burner) HAS EVER BEEN CHANGED FROM THE ORIGINAL 'HEAT-MINDER' element and NOW IS AN INFINITE HEAT ELEMENT. OR = (as in our case) CUT THE WIRE OFF HEAT MINDER BUTTON and change switch to infinite heat switch. (because burner still works) >>> Matching 8" element = Frigidaire 5306590805 > This part - Frigidaire OEM Part # 5309957099 = fits - Frigidaire model RCIB-645-2 Searches on a couple main web sites for appliance parts shows many part #'s this 5309957099 replace Replaces Part Number 5307534769 Replaces Part Number 09957099 Replaces Part Number 07534769 Replaces Part Number 07526396 Replaces Part Number 07525722 Replaces Part Number 07525721 Replaces Part Number 07522792 Replaces Part Number 07521370 Replaces Part Number 07521245 Replaces Part Number 07521243 >>> this is the # that was on original switch - just replaced for L.R. burner. Replaces Part Number 07520196 Replaces Part Number 06591447 Replaces Part Number 06590463 Replaces Part Number 06564355 Replaces Part Number 06564312 Replaces Part Number 06563695 Replaces Part Number 06563645 Replaces Part Number 06562429 Replaces Part Number T6539547 Replaces 2525 Replaces 6539547 Replaces 6563695 Replaces 6590463 Replaces 66004-9AF Replaces 7521243 Replaces 7521245, Replaces 7521370 Replaces 7522792 Replaces 7525721 Replaces 7525722 Replaces 7526396 Replaces 7534769 Replaces 9950919 Replaces 9957099 Replaces AH474739 Replaces EA474739 Replaces N9950919 Replaces PS474739 ReplacesT6539547. One of two switches recently replaced.

The seller I purchased the item from is Amazon LLC Easy easy easy! The bake and convection bake buttons stopped working on my 10 year old GE profile stainless and black range. I searched the internet for what might be wrong, diagnosed it was likely to be the control panel, found a how-to video on repairclinic dot com on how to replace the control panel and ordered the part here on Amazon. I used the GE and Sears website to match the exact model number of my range to the spare part required. Two day shipping and my item was here almost before I truly missed my range. The item was packaged nicely and was well protected. Once I confirmed the item looked basically correct, I followed the repairclinic instructions, unplugged, and disassembled the top part of my range. Then I disconnected the existing control module. The entire process took about ten minutes. It's a but of a pain because all of the fasteners are different. A hex driver is required to remove the hex screws on the back. A star tip screw driver (very short or one with an elbow ratchet) is required to remove the lower screws on the front. A phillips head screw driver is required to remove the four screws the hold the control module in place. Once all of that was done, I unplugged the one connection and then replaced the old control panel assembly with the new one. Then I plugged the oven back in, checked to make sure the metal parts weren't "hot" and verified that the lights came on and the buttons worked. Everything worked perfectly. Next it was time to reassemble the range and this was the only difficult part. The key is to slip the top of the assembly over the back of the range holding the bottom away from the range at an angle, then tuck the "guts" so they fit inside the lower lip of the assembly, and then screw if all back together. The screw holes didn't match perfectly so it took a little holding and pressing to make it all fit tightly together, but in the end it all fit together perfectly. The reassembly took about 40 minutes. Before I did the final tighten of the screws I plugged it in once again to make sure everything still worked well and that nothing had come loose during the reassembly. All worked perfectly so I unplugged again, retightened the screws, plugged it in again and pushed my range back into place. The entire repair took about an hour. I would classify it as very easy with the reassembly requiring patience not brute force. I am a 55 year old woman who is not handy, and I did this by myself. I've never done anything like this repair before. The range is in a remote location so a repair person was not an option. Circumstances forced me to address this problem on my own and completing it successfully was a real confidence booster. I'm very pleased with my purchase and am happy to have my range back in working order. I really appreciate that Amazon carries these repair parts and that they ship to far flung places. Replacing this unit was a very positive experience and, since the visible parts of the control assembly have been completely replaced, my range looks brand new. Very pleased.

I owe this beverage center a review after several months of issue-free operation. I was hesitant to do so too quickly after another brand/model failed miserably on us after only a few months. As mentioned, we have had no issues with this unit at all. It is impressively quiet (especially compared to the other equally expensive unit it replaced) and gets the job done. I guess that's one of the best compliments you can give one of these things. You don't really notice it until you need it. We removed the top half-shelf, which makes it much more functional for our needs (including beer bottles and other items that height). A minor nit is that I wish there was an option to simply leave the LED light on at all times. Instead, the maximum is a few hours. Energy efficiency thrust upon you, I guess, but LEDs are not exactly power hogs. I will update the review if and when we ever have problems, but here's to my not having to ever do so! As promised, I am reporting back with an update as to an issue that has later arisen. Overall, the unit is still performing very well and quietly. One odd issue that has popped up though, is that the unit sometimes gives off an open door alarm when the door is quite clearly closed and sealed. So, it is a sensor (not operational) issue. A repair company came out (entirely free via warranty) and said it is just a metal piece along the bottom that becomes unaligned (he made it sound like this was not the first time they have dealt with it) and the sensor doesn't think there is contact with it. Unfortunately, the alarm is still occurring intermittently, but it doesn't shut down the unit, so it is more of an annoyance than anything. Would certainly still purchase and recommend this product but they need to take a look at this design issue. [UPDATE (December 8, 2016)] The false (door ajar) alarm was continuing intermittently so we called out the repair guy again. This time I was there to see exactly what he did. It really is as simple moving this piece of metallic tape back down, at the bottom lip of the fridge. It just kind of shimmies up and doesn't connect with whatever is in the door to tell the unit it is closed. A very simple fix that has worked. Still going strong (and quietly!) with no other complaints. [UPDATE (October 3, 2017)] I am reducing my rating to 4 stars because this door sensor issue will not go away. See my comment of this same date in response to someone having the same problem, but bottom line is that this method of sensing whether the door is closed is problematic and seemingly very shoddy compared to the rest of the unit. As I mention in my comment, I have furniture wedged up against this thing to press the door closed (and initiate the sensor) until I can once again get someone out to (maybe??) fix it. They need a better system or some sort of sensor redundancy. Otherwise, it is still operating quietly and very well. I don't regret the purchase but this has been very frustrating.

We have had this refrigerator for about 4 months now. It was a replacement to a TINY refrigerator. We reconfigured our kitchen, and were able to utilize a new area for a fridge, so happily, got to go significantly bigger. Still had to go counter-depth and smaller than I would have wanted, but that being said? I love this refrigerator. Counter-depth does cost you a lot of cubic feet in storage, but I love the way that it feels more built-in. And it's hard to get to the back of a deep refrigerator anyway - things can get lost. In our situation a standard depth would have extended beyond the door frame into the living room, which was not an option. We have a small home over all, and a small kitchen. This unit allowed us to get all of the bells and whistles we wanted, and still have decent storage capacity in our somewhat limited space. This refrigerator is BEAUTIFUL, and has lots of great features. I love the way the ice maker is "hidden" behind storage inside the door. So many others that we looked at had a ugly, obtrusive ice maker as the focal point on the door. It WAS very slow making ice for about the first week. But since then, no problems. It DOES make some funny noises every once in awhile, but it is NOT noisy. Just odd noises periodically. Great versatility in the way you can configure trays and shelving. The only negative to me is the two smaller (for fruits and vegetables) storage drawers. They are too small in my opinion, so I have to store a lot of my veggies outside of the drawers. They are fine, so it's not a big deal to me, but I would have preferred a larger capacity. TO me, that's the only negative. I LOVE the Temp Select Zone Drawer. It is full-width, spacious, and allows you to change temperature for either meat, beverage or deli. The drawer lights up red, blue or green (changing to bright white) depending on the setting you have chosen. All of the spotlight lighting in both the fridge and freezer is amazing. No way that anything can hide, because the entire refrigerator is beautifully illuminated. Even the freezer, which is nicely compartmentalized, and has a great pull out drawer at the top for items you want to reach quickly. As you can see we are right up against the wall on the left side, and cannot open the door past 90 degrees. It doe not limit us in any way. All of the drawers open fully due to the smartly configured shelves on the doors. I thought that the photo viewer was a silly idea, but I have to admit that it's kind of fun to watch our doggie's slideshow on the door!! The exterior light on the dispenser area is very pretty - acts as a nightlight in a dark kitchen. The only idea that escapes me is the hot water dispenser. It takes 5 minutes to heat enough water for a mug. Just use the microwave. I HIGHLY recommend this refrigerator, especially for folks with limited space available to them. It's gorgeous, and will give you all the fun features you want in a modern fridge, just in a smaller package!!

I am experiencing the exact same problems that Charles is with this Frigidaire. Fridge worked fine for about 4 months then began making terribly loud rattling sounds, like a broken fan or something. This apparently then caused the freezer to completely freeze over, no longer self-defrosting as advertised, and also with the added bonus of cutting off any cooling to the refrigerator itself thus spoiling hundreds of dollars worth of food. The knob inside the freezer is cheaply made and poorly designed for its uses. It is a plastic turn knob like on a dryer, built tightly into it's space and hard to grip, and apparently attaches to some control behind it that (I think) it can completely break loose of. So upon initially finding the freezer freezing over, my first obvious plan was to turn it down with the knob provided, I know...genius right? Upon doing this the knob felt like it broke free of whatever it is attached to inside of the refrigerator. Not sure if the freezer broke first and froze the knob, or if somehow the knob broke causing the freezer to go full blast. I can't fathom how this could be since at no time did I ever have the freezer turned up past half. Finally, one day out of frustration, I tried it again. Knowing all too well it wouldn't have any affect on the temperature, I turned it. To my disappointment, the knob completely cracked off. I have an appointment scheduled to have it looked and will update with how that goes. *UPDATE Had a service tech from an appliance repair company stop over and he is putting in an order for a new fan. He claims he "really helped us out" since Frigidaire doesn't consider the knob that is integral to the operation of the freezer, and the fridge as a whole, a worthwhile issue to help its customers with. Frigidaire goes as far as to say that any knob, control, etc is purely a "cosmetic" issue. Can you believe that? The control for the entire refrigerator, which it is completely useless and inoperable without, is only cosmetic? Glad you don't build automobiles Frigidaire, because I wouldn't want to be in the vehicle that breaks a steering wheel loose and have you tell me it was my fault, being too rough, then go on to tell me it's only cosmetic lol. How about this Frigidaire, try building a quality product for once, that you actually have the confidence to back up and stop ripping customers off with low quality junk and terrible customer service. What a joke of a fridge, and an even bigger joke of a company. **UPDATE #2 The fan that pulls cool air into the refrigerator has broken once again and is no longer cooling properly, as in hardly at all. Once again this happened after spending about $200 on groceries and stocking it full. I found out that my landlord bought a warranty for this refrigerator (good idea but completely pathetic that it was necessary) so I will be contacting Frigidaire's warranty department and reply with an update. At this point I'm ready to contact whatever agency will help me with this lemon of a product. This "refrigerator," built by Frigidaire, has cost a poor college kid hundreds of dollars in wasted groceries and massive inconveniences. Frigidaire should immediately recall this terrible product before anyone else falls victim.

It was a direct replacement for the OEM. Zero issues swapping it out. A few days after the installation with the refrigerator running fine to that point, the refigerator then started running warm in the refrigerator section but cold in the freezer. A little research and frozen evaporator coils due to a defrost issue was a likely cause. I had marked the shaft of the timer and verified rotation after installation indicating the defrost timer clock was working.. but not any more. I didn't get to the root cause instantly as the part was new, I had verified it after installation and the previous one lasted 29 years. I manually rotated the shaft with a screw driver and put it into defrost cycle. You can tell because the compressor and the fan stop when you hit that point on the clock and they had been running steadily for 2 days (because the refrigerator section never reached temperature, due to the now block of ice evaporator coils). After manually timing the defrost cycle to thaw the frozen coils (yielding a good quart of water in the drip pan) I killed power and uninstalled the new unit intending to put the old suspect one back when I found the problem. While the new unit is very similar to and identical in mounting to the OEM there is one difference. In the OEM version the power for the timer is hard wired in, in the Supco there are two thin spade lugs that straddle the robust terminals for power connector. They are very light weight as minimal power is required to run the defrost timer clock but one of them had broken where the thin body of the spade meets the part of the spade that is crimped on to the wire. Did I bump it during installation, maybe but the bend in the wires and lugs between the broken and unbroken sides appeared identical save for the 1/16" air gap between the pieces of the broken spade. It is more likely it was stressed during during manufacture when the spade was pushed into place or during packaging. Since the original is suspect I soldered the pieces of the spade together and for good measure added a dollop of solder on the still good connector to reinforce it at the weak spot and now the timer rotates again. Originally swapping this Supco part for the OEM was a very easy change out but since I had to repair it after a couple of days of running, it only gets 2 stars. I suspect getting connector(s) that were stressed is just my bad luck but it illustrates how light weight the spades connectors are. No human hands touched it after installation so the failure had to be vibration induced (beyond the initial stress). I would buy the unit again but I also would take the preventative measure of adding a touch of solder at the weak spot as described and who doesn't like a part they feel compelled to strengthen before putting it into service for it's designed use? Were is not for the paper thin spade lugs, this would get 5 stars. I have written Supco customer service expecting nothing other than hoping for future product improvement.

We enjoyed our LG fridge for about six months. Then, the never-ending battle began. First, we heard a knocking sound. After answering the door to no one for the tenth time, we realized it was the fridge. I Googled. I read the manual. I scratched my head. Unplug it, everything more-or-less told me. Great; restart it. Hold down CTRL+ALT+DELETE at the same time. Got it. I left it unplugged for the recommended four hours. Then I powered it back up and the knocking immediately commenced. A few days later, we got the IF error code. Error code? A refrigerator has an error code? Seriously. This was too complicated already. Once again, I turned to Google, the manual, and my scalp. I called the store. After all, they had strongarmed us into a warranty I didn't want, and Im so glad they did. So the repairman came out. He told me that these fridges were notorious for breaking down. Then he proceeded to show me how to repair it myself because, This isn't the first time and it won't be the last. We took the entire freezer apart to get to the ice blower fan, essentially. It gets frozen solid. Every three months like clockwork. Was it manageable? Yeah. First world problems and all that. But then other stuff started going down: -The large mechanism that slides into some other cheap, plastic part did something stupid, so the door wouldnt always close. So guests would shut our fridge but not shut our fridge, which resulted in -A ripped rubber door seal. -No matter what temp the fridge was set at, food sitting directly on the glass shelves or in two of the three produce drawers would freeze. And were not talking about some delightful icy crunch. Entire pieces of fruit, meat, even cheese would freeze solid. Did you know cheese could turn into ice? It can. We cannot store food in half of our fridge. (However, I lined all of the shelves in newspaper, which seems to have helped. Plus, I can now read about the local elections from a year ago every morning while I get the orange juice.) -The freezer fan clogs with ice so often, I have to mention it - twice. -The water dispensing button is starting to stick. -The ice dispenser clogs on a daily basis. We keep a knife honer nearby to stab into the bin. I repeat, this happens daily. -It gets fingerprinted to he77. I know this is a hazard of being an appliance in a home where the occupants have hands. But I hate this thing and now Im just searching for more to add to the list. -The water valve that connects the water line to the fridge wore out. So now we don't even get water or ice until I replace it. -And now the ice maker is broken. That's a $120 part. We have a second fridge in our house. We got it for free from an apartment complex that was throwing them away. We keep it in the garage as a beer fridge. Dudes, this fridge (I don't even know the brand) is probably 20 years old (at least), is ugly as sin, and is chugging away like we do on beer. Meanwhile, my $2,500 LG heartache mocks me with a frozen water melon, incessant ticking, and dripping water.

Just got this 2 weeks ago from my local Best Buy at less than $1000. It's a no-frills, space-maximized, low-profile fridge in a nut-shell. I wish its freezer was at the bottom as the fridge compartment should be the main focal point, at eye-level, and with the easiest accessibility. Well, even though LG makes a bottom freezer (drawer) model, it costs like $200 more. No thanks. Interior lighting: LEDs are nice and cool looking. Illumination could be better for the back but totally within acceptable range. Not an issue for me personally. For those with issues, look into battery-powered motion-sensing LED stick-on lights - when you open the door, these lights turn on for a pre-set amount of time. Noise: It's silent when its fans/compressor are not working. When they're working though, they're on par with most modern fridges, this is no thermal-dynamic silent operation people. But then again who succeeded in denying the law of acoustic physics thus far? So a quiet fridge but do expect to hear noise. Manual says that at room temperature of 70F, expect its compressor to run 40~70% of the time. What a wide range... Settings: Right now, I stick w/ the factory recommended ones: Freezer:3 / Fridge:3 lights. I may lower these settings down the road as ice cream is too hard... Ouch my feet: Fridge door is massive and occupies all the way to the near bottom, beware when you close its door as the door will ram into your feet. A lil' taller kickboard would help but then you'll lose storage volume. Ice Maker: It should be made easier to remove entirely. It occupies too much space like now & most people from what I heard don't use/want it. Lack of partitions: It's actually a plus for me instead of a minus. Right now, all I need to do is to get bins from The Container Store or IKEA to design my own storage interiors. Also, a wide open space like this = extreme spaciousness. It's what makes this fridge unique. This fridge replaces my 8-yr old, 4-door, digital-display touchscreen Samsung one. Which was a state-of-the-art $2500 super advanced fridge at the time. You might think that this LG one is a downgrade, right? Function wise & temperature setting wise; maybe. Space saving wise (footprint); no. Storage volume wise; a huge upgrade, and looks wise; this doesn't pale next to the now defunct Samsung one. This one looks just as modern with its stainless front and its silverish sides aren't ugly or too plastique either. Get this. Glad that I was on a budget and gave up on those pricey gimmicky multi-door / digital display ones or else I would never encounter this bargain fridge.

Great looking range hood. Unfortunately it arrived with a small dent which fortunately will be hidden by installation. Packaging not thick enough for adequate protection for gorilla/drop-kick shipping cos. and handling between manufacturer and US consumer. Mounting instructions were minimal and incorrect - as was the mounting planning design by the designers. I had to disassemble the lower under side of the range hood (10 screws with poor alignment when reassembled) to access the four top screw slot mounting points so it could be attached to the cabinets above securely. The corner/side mounts will not be useable if the hood is to be mounted between cabinets as in my case. The mounting screw slots in the top of the hood shell are too thin (screws bent metal while trying to mount) to support the weight of the hood without additional 1" fender washers on the mounting screws to spread the load. There is no way to access the mounting screws (without disassembly) and mounting screws included are too short -1/2"- for secure wood cabinet mounting and I substituted 3/4" pan). Clearly, the designers were not familiar with or did they consider the typical American in-between kitchen cabinets mounting location for range hoods. The halogen lights on the range hood put out a lot of light at the front of the cook surface, but get very hot - as in do not touch. They should have been tilt-able LEDs and I will probably replace them - as soon as I am over the excessive installation effort. Additionally, mine are focused to far to the front of my KitchenAid range to cover the cooking area and probably of most ranges. Still, my stove is better lighted than before. While the UGA ad says that the noise level is 65db at 900 cfm - it is probably at least that and likely more, and it doesn't significantly diminish between the different fan speeds as I was hoping. While it is the most powerful range hood (most range hoods are 180-300 cfm - compared to 900cfm for the UGA) I have ever seen (actually blows the leaves around on trees 20 feet away on the outside discharge) - it is also the LOUDEST at any speed. You may want ear protectors while cooking and conversation will be almost impossible unless the person is standing immediately next to you and your ear - and shouting. If your goal is to get have an attractive range hood and to get cooking fumes and smells out of your house - this range hood will do it. However, be prepared for an unpleasant noise level - (that IMO with some minor engineering design changes [different bearings, vibration isolation fan motor mounts, fan intake baffles and a lower fan speed range] could have been mostly avoided). In summary: It is a very attractive design IMO, but be prepared to spend some unexpected planning time, effort and a lot of frustration on installation. Don't forget to also order your ear protectors at the same time.

This is a long trail - but the end result is this DOES FIT - among others - >>> 1964 Frigidaire Flair Custom Deluxe RCIB 645-2 > Surface burner INFINITE control switch for 6 inch burner, 240 volts. > That will be the right rear small burner on RCIB 645-2 = infinite heat = which is simply a regular switch = which allows heat from low to high and everywhere in between, hence the name infinite. >>> (An infinite heat switch DIFFERS from "Low - Med - High switches, which provides only three heat settings) > Typically when a switch malfunctions, the surface element (burner) will not heat, or will remain on high in every position. >>> Matching = 6" element = Frigidaire 5306590804 >>> ALSO - speaking for ONLY FRIGIDAIRE RCIB 645-2 stoves = This Frigidaire 5309957098 is also the correct switch for the left front 6" burner = IF THE ELEMENT (burner) HAS EVER BEEN CHANGED FROM THE ORIGINAL 'SPEED HEAT' element and NOW IS AN INFINITE HEAT ELEMENT. > This part - Frigidaire OEM Part #5309957098 = fits - Frigidaire model RCIB-645-2 (which is same as first number replaced - now different by starting with 53 -) Searches on a couple main web sites for appliance parts shows many part #'s this 5309957098 replaces. Replaces Part Number 09957098 Replaces Part Number 07533010 Replaces Part Number 07532999 Replaces Part Number 07531878 Replaces Part Number 07531877 Replaces Part Number 07531379 Replaces Part Number 07526395 Replaces Part Number 07525720 Replaces Part Number 07521242 Replaces Part Number 06563642 Replaces part # 614 Replaces part # 7521242 Replaces part # 7525720 Replaces part # 7526395 Replaces part # 7531379 Replaces part # 7532999 Replaces part # 7533010 Replaces part # 9950918 Replaces part # 9957098 Replaces part # AH474738 Replaces part # EA474738 Replaces part # GR5600 Replaces part # N9950918 >>> this is the # on the switch just replaced on our stove = works perfectly Replaces part # PS474738 --------------- Footnote - 8" ELEMENT SWITCH & ELEMENT = we had a lucky find on ebay >>> Frigidaire 5309957099 switch is correct for the left rear 8" burner which has always been infinite heat. And = if the ORIGINAL RIGHT FRONT 'HEAT MINDER' element has ever been converted to a regular element OR (as in our case) CUT THE WIRE OFF HEAT MINDER BUTTON and change switch to infinite heat switch. (because burner still works) >>> Matching 8" element = Frigidaire 5306590805 One of two switches recently replaced.

I studied outdoor kegerators for several months. You get a lot of bang for the buck with this unit. Mine was missing a couple of screws and the channel lock tool but other than that it has been great. Haven't had a chance to use outside my outdoor kitchen is not quite ready but so far here is my experience using indoors: Unpackaged unit a few weeks after it arrived. Had a very visible denting going on in the front door apparent to the outside (box was perfect so either a manufacturing defect or left the factory damaged). Since my outdoor kitchen is not ready yet, and was using a loaner kegerator for craft beer (Baja Brewing) I figured I might as well test it out before too much time passed. First since it was easier to move, I installed the coasters (which I will have to remove once I install in the final position). Easy enough, but remember usually the coasters/wheels with the brake are for the front. o problem. I had to move from there to the current operating location which is up 2 stairs then another 2. Not too difficult. Put it where it would be for the time being then began to set up. Arranged hoses, etc. Had to remove the tower again because the gasket was I another place and was complaining because it was not there but it was but in another bag. Also they do not mention that the screws from the top rail fit VERY tight (felt like I was stripping them). Took me well over an hour from start to finish but all looked good although I have not yet installed the door handle or in the final under counter location which will be another chore to do correctly and a lot of ingenuity will be needed to create some type of sealed plastic insulated sheath between the above counter tower and under counter kegerator). From there I left sit from about 1pm to 10AM and then connected. Started with temp about 50 degrees. Overall very quiet. Loaded the first two sixth barrel kegs about 8-9pm. Had for several days working great, but could not regulate correctly. The instructions include a different regulation system that was is included. I finally had the craft beer personnel here to help regulate. Was much better but still not perfect. I would fluctuate (to save electricity) between 40-50 degrees. After several days and two more kegs, I started setting temp at 37 degrees. Still quiet, comes on a bit more frequently but not bad. After letting sit for 2 1/2 days, first pours came out perfect. I have a black (Swartzbier style) ad a Blonde (Cream Ale style) and both pour great, I will mention that there is no apparent hole ready for an external CO2 tank (which each time my craft beer company delivers ad installs ten kegs tell me that the CO2 tank is dangerous inside the tank (currently using two sixth barrel kegs ad a regular size CO2 tank because I have yet to find someone in my area who will fill the small 5lb CO2 tank). Overall for price (although for a very small outdoor kegerator I find very pricey) compared to others and the features I would very highly recommend this EdgeStar unit.

Best machines on the market at this price bracket. Before I go in to my own review, I want to point out (as per the comments on both his reviews) that Amazon reviewer "Steve" who has posted two identical negative reviews actually own a DIFFERENT MODEL (WM2650HRA, a cheaper and older unit). It seems he's cluster bombing any LG models on Amazon with this review and posting it twice - While he may be frustrated with his models, it's completely misleading for anyone looking at these machines because they are incredible. My review: We needed new machines for home and I just wnated the best of the best. Sadly, since Maytag flooded the market with cheap machiens the high end of the market has narrowed considerably. I was advised by my local appliance store to buy Electrolux units (EIFLS60LT Washer & EIMED60LT dryer). It turned out to be the single worst purchase of any device in my lifetime; I won't go it in to here but after a year long battle with ElectroSUXS, 11 technician visits and 60+ hours of my life I'll never get back, they finally and begrudgingly sent replacements....which turned out to be BROKEN. Thankfully the silver lining of this was the opportunity to get my money back from them! After a lot of research, which firstly involved talking to the various technicians that were coming to attempt to fix the Electrosuxs units, every single one said "LG", without even hesitating "easy and cheap to fix, if they ever need it" was the same response from each one. So I got these units from LG (WM4270 range) and after 4 months of use, I could not be happier. So much, that I just ordered a second pair for my business, even though the warranty doesn't cover commercial use. I don't care - they're that good. Firstly, HUGE drum size, yet small overall unit footprint. I can do 15-20 large, soaking wet towels without them even flinching. They also have a ton of of programs but they keep it simple on the dial. If you want to customize the programs then you can easily, using the little matrix buttons for each setting (temp, soil, spin speed etc) and a nice touch is that if you try to go outside what is sensible for that setting it won't let you (i.e. you're trying to to go max temp on a delicates setting). Simple things like this make it a real breeze to use if you just want it for basic functions but then you can also get really advanced with completely customized programs if you need (I haven't bothered yet). These units are also really fast. Sub 20 min wash cycle and the paired dryer unit will dry a huge load of heavy clothes in around 45 mins. I could go on and on, but honestly, these are incredibly machines, period. The only single issue that these have (the entire LG range have it) is that the internal valves for the hot and cold water feeds open and close very quickly. This can lead to water hammering (google it) in older houses where pipes aren't strapped or very long pipe runs, but this doesn't bother me as I have strapped pipes and hammer arrestors installed.