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Type of silken bobbin lace This article is about the type of lace. For the song, see Chantilly Lace (song) (/wiki/Chantilly_Lace_(song)) . For the film, see Chantilly Lace (film) (/wiki/Chantilly_Lace_(film)) . Chantilly lace Shawl in Chantilly lace - MoMu-collection, Antwerp (Detail) Type Lace (/wiki/Lace) Production method Bobbin lace (/wiki/Bobbin_lace) Production process Craft production (/wiki/Craft_production) Place of origin Chantilly (/wiki/Chantilly,_Oise) , France Introduced 17th century Scarf in Chantilly lace - MoMu-collection, Antwerp (Detail) Mitts in Chantilly lace - MoMu-collection, Antwerp Chantilly lace is a handmade bobbin lace (/wiki/Bobbin_lace) named after the city of Chantilly (/wiki/Chantilly,_Oise) , [1] (#cite_note-OED-1) France (/wiki/France) , in a tradition dating from the 17th century. [2] (#cite_note-P&P2-2) [3] (#cite_note-Ipswich-3) The famous silk laces were introduced in the 18th century. Chantilly lace , was also produced in the 19th century but this one was actually made not in Chantilly area but in the French Norman town Bayeux (/wiki/Bayeux) and in Geraardsbergen (/wiki/Geraardsbergen) , now in Belgium. [4] (#cite_note-L&L2-4) [5] (#cite_note-P&P1-5) [6] (#cite_note-Dict-6) Chantilly lace is known for its fine ground (/wiki/Bobbin_lace_ground) , outlined pattern, [1] (#cite_note-OED-1) and abundant detail. [3] (#cite_note-Ipswich-3) The pattern is outlined in cordonnet , a flat untwisted strand. [4] (#cite_note-L&L2-4) [5] (#cite_note-P&P1-5) [7] (#cite_note-Old-7) The best Chantilly laces were made of silk, and were generally black, [8] (#cite_note-L&L1-8) which made them suitable for mourning wear (/wiki/Mourning) . White Chantilly lace was also made, both in linen and silk, [8] (#cite_note-L&L1-8) though most Chantilly laces were made of silk. [3] (#cite_note-Ipswich-3) The black silk Chantilly lace became especially popular, [3] (#cite_note-Ipswich-3) and there was a large market for it in Spain and the Americas. Chantilly and the Spanish laces (such as blonde lace (/wiki/Blonde_lace) ) were the most popular black laces. Little white Chantilly was ever made. [6] (#cite_note-Dict-6) Another notable thing about Chantilly lace is the use of a half-and-whole stitch as a fill to achieve the effect of light and shadow in the pattern, [3] (#cite_note-Ipswich-3) [6] (#cite_note-Dict-6) which was generally of flowers. The background, or réseau , was in the form of a six pointed star, [5] (#cite_note-P&P1-5) and was made of the same thread as the pattern, unlike the otherwise similar blonde lace. [7] (#cite_note-Old-7) The lace was produced in strips approximately four inches wide, and then joined with a stitch that left no visible seam. [3] (#cite_note-Ipswich-3) [4] (#cite_note-L&L2-4) Chantilly lace remained popular in 19th century Europe, when many fashionable women wore black or white Chantilly shawls made in Brussels (/wiki/Brussels) or Ghent (/wiki/Ghent) . [1] (#cite_note-OED-1) History [ edit ] In the 17th century, the Duchesse de Longueville (/wiki/Anne_Genevi%C3%A8ve_de_Bourbon) organised the manufacture of lace at Chantilly. [2] (#cite_note-P&P2-2) It has been produced from then until the present day. [3] (#cite_note-Ipswich-3) It became popular because of the duchesse's patronage and Chantilly's proximity to Paris [2] (#cite_note-P&P2-2) and came into fashion again during the reigns of Louis XV (/wiki/Louis_XV) and Louis XVI (/wiki/Louis_XVI) ; [7] (#cite_note-Old-7) it was a special favorite of Louis XV (/wiki/Louis_XV) 's last mistress, Mme du Barry (/wiki/Mme_du_Barry) , and of Marie Antoinette (/wiki/Marie_Antoinette) . [6] (#cite_note-Dict-6) When the French Revolution (/wiki/French_Revolution) began in 1789, demand for the lace ceased. The lace-makers were seen as protégés of the royals, and after Mme du Barry and Marie Antoinette were guillotined (/wiki/Guillotine) in 1793, the lace-makers of Chantilly were themselves killed. [2] (#cite_note-P&P2-2) [6] (#cite_note-Dict-6) At this point production ceased. [6] (#cite_note-Dict-6) Napoleon I (/wiki/Napoleon_I) sponsored a revival of Chantilly lace [2] (#cite_note-P&P2-2) between the years 1804 and 1815. [6] (#cite_note-Dict-6) At this point production was concentrated in Normandy, mainly around the Bayeux area. While it was no longer being made in Chantilly, all of the old techniques and designs were used. [6] (#cite_note-Dict-6) Chantilly lace reached the height of its popularity around 1830 [7] (#cite_note-Old-7) and was revived again in the 1860s, at which point it was made at Bayeux as well as at Geraardsbergen (/wiki/Geraardsbergen) , in what is nowadays Belgium. [6] (#cite_note-Dict-6) In 1844, a machine was patented that made Valenciennes lace (/wiki/Valenciennes_lace) and black silk Chantilly lace that was difficult to distinguish from the handmade lace. [9] (#cite_note-9) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c "Chantilly" The Oxford English Dictionary . 2nd ed. 1989. ^ Jump up to: a b c d e Sharp, Mary (March 2007). Point and Pillow Lace . Herron Press. p. 117. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-4067-4562-7 . Retrieved 2008-05-10 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g Raffel, Marta Cotterell (January 2003). The Laces of Ipswich: The Art and Economics of an Early American Industry, 1750-1840 . UPNE. p. 151. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 1-58465-163-6 . Retrieved 2008-05-13 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Powys, Marian (March 2002). Lace and Lace Making . Dover Publications. p. 31. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-486-41811-1 . Retrieved 2008-05-14 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Sharp, Mary (March 2007). Point and Pillow Lace . Herron Press. p. 114. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-4067-4562-7 . Retrieved 2008-05-14 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h i Earnshaw, Pat (February 1999). A Dictionary of Lace . Dover. p. 31. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-486-40482-X . Retrieved 2008-05-13 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d Blum, Clara M. (June 2002). Old World Lace: A Concise Illustrated Guide . Dover. p. 64. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-486-42150-3 . Retrieved 2008-05-13 . ^ Jump up to: a b Powys, Marian (March 2002). Lace and Lace Making . Dover Publications. p. 28. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-486-41811-1 . Retrieved 2008-05-14 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) Felkin, William (1867). A History of the Machine-wrought Hosiery and Lace Manufactures . Longmans, Green and Co. p. 415 (https://archive.org/details/ahistorymachine00felkgoog/page/n491) . Retrieved 2008-05-14 . chantilly lace. External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Point de Chantilly (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Point_de_Chantilly) . Chantilly lace – Virtual Museum of Textile Arts (http://www.museocaprai.it/en/tecnica_Punto_Chantilly.htm) v t e Lace (/wiki/Lace) types Needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Punto in Aria (/wiki/Punto_in_Aria) Point de Venise (/wiki/Point_de_Venise) Point de France (/wiki/Point_de_France) Alençon (/wiki/Alen%C3%A7on_lace) Aemilia Ars (/w/index.php?title=Aemilia_Ars&action=edit&redlink=1) Argentan (/wiki/Argentan_lace) Argentella (/wiki/Argentella) Armenian (/wiki/Armenian_needlelace) Burano (https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merletto%20di%20Burano) Halas lace (/wiki/Halas_lace) Hedebo embroidery (/wiki/Hedebo_embroidery) Hollie Point (/wiki/Hollie_Point) Nallıhan (/wiki/Nall%C4%B1han_silk_needlelace) Point de Gaze (/wiki/Point_de_Gaze) Kenmare Lace (/wiki/Kenmare_lace) Ñandutí (/wiki/%C3%91andut%C3%AD) Oya (/wiki/Oya_(lace)) Pag (/wiki/Pag_lace) Puncetto Valsesiano (/w/index.php?title=Puncetto_Valsesiano&action=edit&redlink=1) Tenerife (/wiki/Tenerife_lace) Youghal (/wiki/Youghal_lace) Embroidery (/wiki/Embroidery) Buratto (/wiki/Buratto) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Reticella (/wiki/Reticella) Limerick (/wiki/Limerick_lace) Needlerun net (/wiki/Needlerun_net) Tambour (/wiki/Tambour_lace) Cutwork (/wiki/Cutwork) Broderie anglaise (/wiki/Broderie_anglaise) Carrickmacross (/wiki/Carrickmacross_lace) Lefkara lace (/wiki/Lefkara_lace) Saba lace (/wiki/Saba_lace) Bobbin lace (/wiki/Bobbin_lace) Mesh grounds (/wiki/Mesh_grounded_bobbin_lace) Torchon (/wiki/Torchon_lace) Freehand (/wiki/Freehand_lace) Arras (/wiki/Arras_lace) Bayeux (/wiki/Bayeux_lace) Beeralu (/w/index.php?title=Beeralu&action=edit&redlink=1) Blonde (/wiki/Blonde_lace) Bucks point (/wiki/Bucks_point_lace) Chantilly Chefoo (/w/index.php?title=Chefoo_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Cogne (/wiki/Cogne_lace) Tønder (/wiki/T%C3%B8nder_lace) Beveren (/wiki/Beveren_lace) Lille (/wiki/Lille_lace) Binche (/wiki/Binche_lace) Flanders (/wiki/Flanders_lace) Paris (/wiki/Paris_lace) Valenciennes (/wiki/Valenciennes_lace) Antwerp (/wiki/Antwerp_lace) Mechlin (/wiki/Mechlin_lace) Ipswich (/wiki/Ipswich_lace) 's Gravenmoer (/w/index.php?title=%27s_Gravenmoer_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Mundillo (/wiki/Mundillo) Guipure (/wiki/Guipure) Greek (/wiki/Greek_lace) Genoese (/wiki/Genoese_lace) Bedfordshire (/wiki/Bedfordshire_lace) Cluny (/wiki/Cluny_lace) Dentelle du Puy (https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dentelle_du_Puy) Liptov (/wiki/Liptov) Maltese (/wiki/Maltese_lace) Yak lace (/wiki/Yak_lace) Part laces (/wiki/Part_lace) Honiton (/wiki/Honiton_lace) Bruges (/wiki/Bruges_lace) Brussels (/wiki/Brussels_lace) Rosaline (/wiki/Rosaline_lace) Point d'Angleterre (/wiki/Brussels_lace#Point_d'Angleterre) Tape (/wiki/Bobbin_tape_lace) Cantù (/w/index.php?title=Cant%C3%B9_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Milanese (/wiki/Milanese_bobbin_lace) Hinojosa (/w/index.php?title=Hinojosa_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Russian (/wiki/Russian_lace) Idrija (/wiki/Idrija_lace) Schneeberg (/wiki/Schneeberg_lace) Peasant (/w/index.php?title=Peasant_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Tape lace (/wiki/Tape_lace) Mezzopunto (/w/index.php?title=Mezzopunto&action=edit&redlink=1) Princess (/wiki/Princess_lace) Renaissance (/wiki/Renaissance_lace) Battenberg (/wiki/Battenberg_lace) Romanian point (/wiki/Romanian_point_lace) Branscombe (/wiki/Branscombe_lace) Crocheted lace (/wiki/Crocheted_lace) Broomstick lace (/wiki/Broomstick_lace) Irish crochet (/wiki/Irish_lace) Hairpin (/wiki/Hairpin_lace) Filet crochet (/wiki/Filet_crochet) Orvieto lace (/w/index.php?title=Orvieto_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Machine (/wiki/Lace_machine) -made lace Bobbinet (/wiki/Bobbinet) Leavers (/wiki/Leavers_machine) Pusher (/wiki/Pusher_machine) Barmen (/wiki/Barmen_lace_machine) Curtain Machine (/wiki/Nottingham_lace_curtain_machine) Chemical (/wiki/Chemical_lace) Raschel (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Stocking Frame (/wiki/Stocking_frame) Warp Knit (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Other handmade laces Metal laces (/wiki/Metal_lace) Lace knitting (/wiki/Lace_knitting) Macramé (/wiki/Macram%C3%A9) Tatting (/wiki/Tatting) Punto a groppo (/wiki/Punto_a_groppo) Sprang (/wiki/Sprang) Liturgical lace (/wiki/Liturgical_lace) Media related to Lace (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Lace) at Wikimedia Commons Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Clothing portal (/wiki/Portal:Clothing) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6f54559974‐44fqc Cached time: 20240720164946 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1] CPU time usage: 0.408 seconds Real time usage: 0.781 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1267/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 49565/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 991/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 14/100 Expensive parser function count: 5/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 47560/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.257/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 5199391/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion 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Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Chantilly_lace&oldid=1193838054 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Chantilly_lace&oldid=1193838054) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Bobbin lace (/wiki/Category:Bobbin_lace) History of clothing (Western fashion) (/wiki/Category:History_of_clothing_(Western_fashion)) Textile arts of France (/wiki/Category:Textile_arts_of_France) Hidden categories: Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description is different from Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_is_different_from_Wikidata) Commons category link from Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Commons_category_link_from_Wikidata)

Tattoo style that became popular in the late 1990s Two women with lower-back tattoos wearing thongs (/wiki/Thong) Tattoos (/wiki/Tattoo) on the lower back (/wiki/Human_back) became popular in the first decade of the 21st century, and gained a reputation for their erotic (/wiki/Erotic) appeal. The tattoos were sometimes accentuated by low-rise jeans (/wiki/Low-rise_jeans) or crop tops (/wiki/Crop_top) . Their popularity was in part due to the influence of female celebrities. A 2011 study of media stereotypes criticized media portrayals of lower-back tattoos, arguing that they were unfairly cast as a symbol of promiscuity. [1] (#cite_note-abl-1) History [ edit ] Although historically in the western world (/wiki/Western_Hemisphere) men are more often tattooed than women, in the early 1990s the practice gained popularity among women. [2] (#cite_note-tct-2) Prior to the late 20th century, women with tattoos were heavily stigmatized, and were rarely found in middle-class (/wiki/Middle-class) society. [3] (#cite_note-fen-3) Lower-back tattoos were popularized in the early 2000s, in part owing to the influence of female celebrities, including Britney Spears (/wiki/Britney_Spears) , Aaliyah (/wiki/Aaliyah) , Christina Ricci (/wiki/Christina_Ricci) and Pamela Anderson (/wiki/Pamela_Anderson) . The popularity of low-rise jeans (/wiki/Low-rise_jeans) and crop tops (/wiki/Crop_top) may have also spurred the increase in lower-back tattoos. [4] (#cite_note-wsj-4) Another appeal of tattooing the lower back is that there is little fat there, lessening the chance that images will become misshapen over time. [5] (#cite_note-tva-5) Also, the lower back is often concealed, providing women the choice of when to reveal their tattoo. [3] (#cite_note-fen-3) Although some males have lower-back tattoos, including some celebrities, [4] (#cite_note-wsj-4) they are generally not acquired by men. [6] (#cite_note-6) Perception [ edit ] Women's lower backs are often viewed by people as an erotic body part, leading to the association of lower-back tattoos with sexuality. [3] (#cite_note-fen-3) Lower-back tattoos are also perceived as an indication of promiscuity (/wiki/Promiscuity) by some, possibly owing to media portrayals of women with tattoos. [7] (#cite_note-green-7) A 2011 study of media stereotypes criticized media portrayals of lower-back tattoos, arguing that they are unfairly cast as a symbol of promiscuity. [1] (#cite_note-abl-1) The show Saturday Night Live (/wiki/Saturday_Night_Live) seems to at least have partially played a role in bringing prejudice and shaming to the placement of the tattoo. For instance, the term " tramp (/wiki/Tramp) stamp" started gaining widespread popularity after being used in one of their May 2004 skits. [8] (#cite_note-8) In another instance, the show also satirized the practice, describing a "rub-on" tattoo remover marketed at middle-age women who received lower-back tattoos while young. [1] (#cite_note-abl-1) Sports Illustrated (/wiki/Sports_Illustrated) once edited out Danica Patrick (/wiki/Danica_Patrick) 's tattoo out of the magazine for her issue. SI stated Patrick was aware of the edit and responded "The Swimsuit Issue emphasizes natural beauty". [9] (#cite_note-9) Actress Jessica Alba (/wiki/Jessica_Alba) regretted her lower back bow tattoo and had it removed. [10] (#cite_note-10) [11] (#cite_note-11) Medical aspects [ edit ] Medical practitioners who administer anesthesia have questioned whether epidural analgesia (/wiki/Epidural_analgesia) should be provided to women with lower-back tattoos. Concerns have emerged that epidural catheters may cause tattoo pigment to enter interspinous ligaments (/wiki/Interspinous_ligament) and other areas, potentially leading to health problems. There is consensus that epidural catheters should not be placed through irritated or infected tattoos. However, harm has not been clearly documented when placing epidural catheters through healthy tattooed skin; a review in the American Association of Nurse Anesthetists (/wiki/American_Association_of_Nurse_Anesthetists) Journal concluded that "epidural catheter placement through lumbar tattoos is a practitioner's decision based on clinical judgment". [12] (#cite_note-12) In Current Opinion in Anesthesiology (/wiki/Current_Opinion_in_Anesthesiology) , Frédéric J. Mercier and Marie-Pierre Bonnet state that the evidence for complications when placing epidural catheters is unconvincing, but advocate avoiding the practice owing to the lack of long-term evidence. [13] (#cite_note-13) See also [ edit ] Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Dimples of Venus (/wiki/Dimples_of_Venus) – Depressions over the gluteal fold Womb tattoo (/w/index.php?title=Womb_tattoo&action=edit&redlink=1) [ jp (https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E6%B7%AB%E7%B4%8B) ] – Front facing tattoo with a similar appeal References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c Salinas, Chema (2011). Paul Lester and Susan Ross (ed.). Images That Injure: Pictorial Stereotypes in the Media . ABC-CLIO (/wiki/ABC-CLIO) . pp. 247–8. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-313-37892-8 . ^ (#cite_ref-tct_2-0) Seibert, Justin (21 November 2007). "Once taboo, tattoos on girls are getting hot" (http://articles.chicagotribune.com/2007-11-21/news/0711210407_1_tattoos-ladies-stars) . The Chicago Tribune (/wiki/The_Chicago_Tribune) . Retrieved 23 April 2012 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Fenske, Mindy (2007). Tattoos in American Visual Culture . Macmillan Publishers (/wiki/Macmillan_Publishers) . pp. 98–9. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-230-60027-0 . ^ Jump up to: a b Fong, Mei (24 May 2002). "Hipster Jeans, Crop Tops Boost Lower-Back Tattoos" (https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB1022196931420249960) . The Wall Street Journal (/wiki/The_Wall_Street_Journal) . Retrieved 23 April 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-tva_5-0) Semenza, Gabe (16 August 2007). "Do Lower Back Tattoo Lead to More Pain in the Delivery Room?" (https://news.google.com/newspapers?id=4Z8_AAAAIBAJ&pg=1844,3656915&dq=lower-back-tattoo&hl=en) . The Victoria Advocate (/wiki/The_Victoria_Advocate) . Retrieved 23 April 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Cuyper, Christa De; Maria Luisa Cotapos (2010). Dermatologic Complications With Body Art: Tattoos, Piercings and Permanent Make-Up . Springer Publishing (/wiki/Springer_Publishing) . p. 5 (https://archive.org/details/dermatologiccomp00cuyp_021/page/n12) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-3-642-03291-2 . ^ (#cite_ref-green_7-0) Hall, Ann C.; Bishop, Mardia J. (2007). Pop-Porn: Pornography in American Culture . Greenwood Publishing Group (/wiki/Greenwood_Publishing_Group) . pp. 65–6. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-275-99920-9 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) Hudson, Karen L. (29 March 2019). "Battling Stereotypes About Lower-Back Tattoos" (https://www.liveabout.com/the-infamous-tramp-stamp-3189647) . LiveAbout . Retrieved 20 October 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) Rovell, Darren (19 February 2009). "Sports Illustrated Responds To Taking Off Danica's Tattoo" (https://www.cnbc.com/id/29285166) . www.cnbc.com . Retrieved 3 August 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "Jessica Alba is 'irritated' by some of her tattoos - including her 'tramp stamp' (https://metro.co.uk/2019/07/20/jessica-alba-regrets-at-least-two-of-her-tattoos-including-her-tramp-stamp-10430182/) " (https://metro.co.uk/2019/07/20/jessica-alba-regrets-at-least-two-of-her-tattoos-including-her-tramp-stamp-10430182/) . 20 July 2019. "Jessica Alba Reveals the Funny Reason She Regrets Getting 2 of Her Tattoos" (https://www.usmagazine.com/stylish/news/jessica-alba-regrets-getting-these-2-tattoos/) . 19 July 2019. ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Jessica Alba's Tattoos: Why She Regrets (Or Doesn't Regret) Them" (https://www.yournextshoes.com/jessica-alba-tattoos/) . 24 September 2021. ^ (#cite_ref-12) Welliver, Dawn; Mark Welliver; Tammy Carroll; Peggy James (June 2010). "Lumbar Epidural Catheter Placement in the Presence of Low Back Tattoos: A Review of the Safety Concerns" (https://web.archive.org/web/20150608002142/http://www.aana.com/newsandjournal/Documents/lumbarepidural_0610_p197-201.pdf) (PDF) . AANA Journal . 78 (3): 197–201. PMID (/wiki/PMID_(identifier)) 20572405 (https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/20572405) . Archived from the original (http://www.aana.com/newsandjournal/Documents/lumbarepidural_0610_p197-201.pdf) (PDF) on 8 June 2015 . Retrieved 25 April 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) Mercier, Frédéric J.; Bonnet, Marie-Pierre (June 2009). "Tattooing and various piercing: anaesthetic considerations". Current Opinion in Anesthesiology . 22 (3): 436–441. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1097/ACO.0b013e32832a4125 (https://doi.org/10.1097%2FACO.0b013e32832a4125) . PMID (/wiki/PMID_(identifier)) 19384230 (https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/19384230) . S2CID (/wiki/S2CID_(identifier)) 35215101 (https://api.semanticscholar.org/CorpusID:35215101) . 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Italian fashion house This article is about the Italian sartorial menswear company. For the islands in Croatia, see Brijuni (/wiki/Brijuni) . For the Italian commune, see Brione, Trentino (/wiki/Brione,_Trentino) . WikiMiniAtlas 41°54′14″N 12°29′40″E  /  41.9040134°N 12.4943797°E  / 41.9040134; 12.4943797 Brioni Company type Subsidiary (/wiki/Subsidiary) Industry Luxury (/wiki/Luxury_goods) Founded 1945 ; 79 years ago ( 1945 ) Founder Nazareno Fonticoli (/w/index.php?title=Nazareno_Fonticoli&action=edit&redlink=1) Gaetano Savini Headquarters Rome (/wiki/Rome) , Italy (/wiki/Italy) Key people Mehdi Benabadji (CEO) Norbert Stumpfl (Creative Director) Operating income (/wiki/Earnings_before_interest_and_taxes) €170 million (2011) [1] (#cite_note-1) Owner Kering (/wiki/Kering) Number of employees 1,200 (2017) [2] (#cite_note-2) Website www (http://www.brioni.com) .brioni (http://www.brioni.com) .com (http://www.brioni.com) Brioni is an Italian (/wiki/Culture_of_Italy) menswear (/wiki/Menswear) luxury (/wiki/Luxury_goods) fashion house (/wiki/Fashion_house) based in Rome (/wiki/Rome) and specialised in sartorial ready-to-wear (/wiki/Ready-to-wear) , leather (/wiki/Leather) goods, shoes, eyewear and fragrance, and provides a tailor-made service (Bespoke). Brioni was founded in Rome in 1945. In 1952, the brand organised the first menswear runway show in the modern history of fashion. The brand invented the trunk show (/wiki/Trunk_show) and the Prêt Couture. Brioni opened the tailoring school Scuola di Alta Sartoria in Penne (/wiki/Penne,_Abruzzo) , Italia, in 1985. Brioni was acquired by the luxury group Kering (/wiki/Kering) in 2011. Mehdi Benabadji is the CEO of Brioni since December 2019, and Norbert Stumpfl the creative director since October 2018. History [ edit ] Peacock Revolution [ edit ] See also: peacock revolution (/wiki/Peacock_revolution) The first Brioni store, a tailor menswear boutique, was established on Via Barberini 79 in Rome in 1945 by Nazareno Fonticoli and Gaetano Savini. [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) The name Brioni is a reference to the Croatian Brijuni (/wiki/Brijuni) Islands, a vacation destination for European jet setters (/wiki/Jet_set) . Brioni was the first tailor for menswear to use bold colors and lighter material, introducing new silhouettes using slimmer shapes with natural shoulders. [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) In 1952, Brioni staged the first menswear fashion show (/wiki/Fashion_show) in the modern history of fashion, inside the Sala Bianca at Palazzo Pitti (/wiki/Palazzo_Pitti) in Florence (/wiki/Florence) , where the Peacock Revolution was introduced. [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) Brioni also invented the trunk show, during which the collections were presented directly in stores, allowing customers to personalize the garments with the Su Misura service (made-to-measure). [4] (#cite_note-4) Brioni promoted the “total look”, manufacturing suits, hats, ties, shirts and shoes. In 1959, a production plant was opened in Penne, Abruzzo (/wiki/Penne,_Abruzzo) , birth town of Nazareno Fonticoli. Called Brioni Roman Style, the state-of-the-art factory introduced the concept of Prêt Couture, or ready-to-wear Haute Couture that sealed the international rise of the brand. [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) During the 1950s, Brioni organized fashion shows in 9 US cities [5] (#cite_note-:1-5) which launched the distribution of the brand in the USA. [6] (#cite_note-6) Brioni raised interests from celebrities, heads of state and business leaders. American movie stars of the 1950s such as Clark Gable (/wiki/Clark_Gable) , John Wayne (/wiki/John_Wayne) and Cary Grant (/wiki/Cary_Grant) wore Brioni suits in Hollywood, giving international exposure to the brand. [7] (#cite_note-7) In 1959, Brioni launched a production plant, the Brioni Roman Style in Penne, which introduced the concept of Prêt Couture that also precipitated the international rise of the brand. [8] (#cite_note-8) Expansion [ edit ] In 1985, the company opened a tailoring (/wiki/Tailor) school in Penne (/wiki/Penne,_Abruzzo) with the aim of transmitting to younger generations the specific Brioni sartorial method. [9] (#cite_note-9) The same year, Brioni opened a store in New-York's Fisher Building (/wiki/Fisher_Building) on 52nd Street (/wiki/52nd_Street_(Manhattan)) . In 1990, Umberto Angeloni was appointed CEO of Brioni. He embarked the company in a diversification of its product lines, from sportswear to womenswear (Lady Brioni) and accessories. Between 1995 and 2001, the company's revenue grew threefold to 150 million dollars. [10] (#cite_note-10) In 2007, Brioni tied a partnership with the Royal College of Art (/wiki/Royal_College_of_Art) in London to train master tailors through a 3-year program [11] (#cite_note-11) (the partnership ended in 2019). In 2006, Angeloni was replaced by three joint CEOs: Antonella de Simone, Andrea Perrone, and Antonio Bianchini. [5] (#cite_note-:1-5) In June 2007, Angeloni and his wife sold their 17% share in the company. [12] (#cite_note-12) In 2009, Brioni was hit by the economic crisis but refused to relocate its manufacturing outside of Italy. Instead, the brand released new categories of products with new fabrics [13] (#cite_note-13) [14] (#cite_note-14) and introduced a men's scent, the brand's first foray into fragrances since the release of the 1958 Good Luck fragrance. [15] (#cite_note-15) Andrea Perrone took over as CEO [16] (#cite_note-16) and appointed Alessandro Dell'Acqua as creative director of womenswear in May 2010, [17] (#cite_note-17) but the brand discontinued its women's line the following year. [18] (#cite_note-18) Kering acquisition [ edit ] A Brioni boutique at Wynn Las Vegas (/wiki/Wynn_Las_Vegas) In 2011, Brioni was acquired by the French luxury group PPR (renamed Kering (/wiki/Kering) in 2013). [19] (#cite_note-19) For the past decade, the brand had been struggling to redefine itself, the influence of streetwear and casual office wear was driving the younger clientele away from the traditional suits tailored by Brioni. [20] (#cite_note-20) Francesco Pesci, an employee of the company since 1994, acted as CEO of Brioni during the transition. [21] (#cite_note-Szmydke-21) In July 2012, Brendan Mullane was appointed creative director of Brioni. [22] (#cite_note-22) [23] (#cite_note-23) Mulllane experimented with silk, hand-painted fabrics, and kimono-belted suits in his collections. [24] (#cite_note-24) In November 2014, Gianluca Flore took over as CEO of the brand. [21] (#cite_note-Szmydke-21) In March 2016, Justin O’Shea was appointed creative director of Brioni. [25] (#cite_note-25) O'Shea looked for a reinvention of the brand by appealing to new customers, featuring stronger shoulders, smaller waist and longer jackets. [26] (#cite_note-26) On March 23, 2016, luxury conglomerate Kering (/wiki/Kering) announced that it had appointed Justin O’Shea, a heavily tattooed (/wiki/Tattoo) Australian (/wiki/Australian_people) and street-style enthusiast with more than 80,000 Instagram (/wiki/Instagram) followers, as creative director. [27] (#cite_note-27) A self-taught retail expert, O’Shea was formerly the fashion director of the German (/wiki/Economy_of_Germany) e-commerce (/wiki/E-commerce) site MyTheresa. [28] (#cite_note-28) [29] (#cite_note-29) O’Shea featured the four members of Metallica (/wiki/Metallica) dressed in Brioni tuxedos (/wiki/Tuxedo) in his first ad campaign with the brand. [30] (#cite_note-30) [31] (#cite_note-31) The remake of Brioni's logo under O'Shea has been compared to the Fraktur (/wiki/Fraktur) typeface. [32] (#cite_note-32) O'Shea showed his first collection for the house on 4 July 2016. [33] (#cite_note-33) After 6 months, [34] (#cite_note-34) [35] (#cite_note-35) Brioni announced that O'Shea would leave the brand. [36] (#cite_note-TAMARA_ABRAHAM-36) Brioni reported that its Autumn/Winter 2017 collection would be presented to buyers in the Milan (/wiki/Milan) showroom from mid-November 2016 but would not have a corresponding runway show. [36] (#cite_note-TAMARA_ABRAHAM-36) In March 2017, Fabrizio Malverdi became the new CEO of Brioni, [37] (#cite_note-37) [38] (#cite_note-38) and appointed Nina-Maria Nitsche as creative director in June 2017, [39] (#cite_note-39) who was credited for revitalizing Brioni. [40] (#cite_note-40) The Primo suit was introduced, a contemporary interpretation of the brand's tailoring. [41] (#cite_note-41) In July 2018, Nina-Maria Nitsche exited Brioni, her style being described as elegant yet "too safe". [42] (#cite_note-42) In October 2018, Austrian designer Norbert Stumpfl was appointed Design Director (/wiki/Design_director) of Brioni. [43] (#cite_note-43) Norbert Stumpfl introduced a more tonal suit design with enhanced sumptuous fabrics. Cashmere, silk, vicuna and suede prevailed to create a lighter informal feel to the house's iconic yet muted suit designs. [44] (#cite_note-44) [45] (#cite_note-45) In 2019, Mehdi Benabadji was appointed CEO of Brioni. [46] (#cite_note-46) Operations [ edit ] In 2020, Brioni operated 30 stores, [47] (#cite_note-47) and had 1,350 employees, including 1,000 tailors in production facilities. Since 1985, Brioni has operated the tailoring school Scuola di Alta Sartoria located near its factory in Penne, Italy. A made-to-measure (/wiki/Made-to-measure) suit requires 200 tailors and quality control specialists before shipment. [48] (#cite_note-:2-48) A Brioni jacket requires 12,000 stitches, only 17% of which are visible externally. [49] (#cite_note-49) Garments are pressed and steamed around 80 times to lengthen the fabric. [48] (#cite_note-:2-48) After having previously collaborated on a limited-edition scent for men, Brioni launched its first fragrance (/wiki/Perfume) in collaboration with Firmenich (/wiki/Firmenich) in 2014. [50] (#cite_note-50) [51] (#cite_note-51) In 2019, the brand entered into a worldwide perfume licensing agreement with Lalique Group, which initially runs through the end of 2024. [52] (#cite_note-52) In 2012, Brioni launched a collection of sunglasses (/wiki/Sunglasses) hand-crafted in Italy by artisans using metal and horn. [53] (#cite_note-53) Marketing [ edit ] Brioni has hired movie stars for its advertising campaigns including: Samuel L. Jackson (/wiki/Samuel_L._Jackson) [54] (#cite_note-54) and Sir Anthony Hopkins (/wiki/Anthony_Hopkins) [55] (#cite_note-55) in 2017, Harvey Keitel (/wiki/Harvey_Keitel) [56] (#cite_note-56) and Pierce Brosnan (/wiki/Pierce_Brosnan) [57] (#cite_note-57) in 2018, Matt Dillon (/wiki/Matt_Dillon) in 2019, [58] (#cite_note-58) Brad Pitt (/wiki/Brad_Pitt) in 2020, [59] (#cite_note-59) and Jude Law (/wiki/Jude_Law) in 2022. [60] (#cite_note-60) Governance [ edit ] CEOs 1990–2006: Umberto Angeloni 2006–2009: Antonella de Simone, Andrea Perrone, Antonio Bianchini 2009–2010: Andrea Perrone 2010–2014: Francesco Pesci 2014–2017: Gianluca Flore 2017–2019: Fabrizio Malverdi 2020–present: Mehdi Benabadji Creative designers 2013–2016: Brendan Mullane 2016: Justin O’Shea 2017–2018: Nina-Maria Nitsche 2018–present: Norbert Stumpfl In popular culture [ edit ] Brioni dressed Pierce Brosnan (/wiki/Pierce_Brosnan) in all his James Bond (/wiki/James_Bond) movies from GoldenEye (/wiki/GoldenEye) (1995) on, and Daniel Craig (/wiki/Daniel_Craig) in Casino Royale (/wiki/Casino_Royale_(2006_film)) (2006). [61] (#cite_note-61) In the 2000 movie American Psycho (/wiki/American_Psycho_(film)) , Patrick Bateman (/wiki/Patrick_Bateman) (played by Christian Bale (/wiki/Christian_Bale) ) wears a Brioni tie. [62] (#cite_note-62) In the 2008 Coen brothers (/wiki/Coen_brothers) ' film Burn After Reading (/wiki/Burn_After_Reading) , Brad Pitt (/wiki/Brad_Pitt) 's character tries to convince a co-worker that she should consider dating a guy based on the belief that he is wearing a Brioni suit. [63] (#cite_note-63) In the pilot episode of The Good Wife (/wiki/The_Good_Wife) , Alicia Florrick's boss comments that her colleague Cary Agos is wearing Brioni. Brioni supplied Donald Trump (/wiki/Donald_Trump) with suits for his TV show The Apprentice (/wiki/The_Apprentice) . [64] (#cite_note-64) Further reading [ edit ] Farid Chenoune, Brioni (Universe of Fashion) , ed. Universe. 1998. Fernando Morelli, Lea Della Cagna and Michelle Finamore, Gaetano Savini, the Man Who Was Brioni , ed. Assouline. 2011. See also [ edit ] Made in Italy (/wiki/Made_in_Italy) Bespoke tailoring (/wiki/Bespoke_tailoring) Made-to-measure (/wiki/Made-to-measure) Kering (/wiki/Kering) Kiton (/wiki/Kiton) Ermenegildo Zegna (/wiki/Ermenegildo_Zegna_Group) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Leila Abboud (8 November 2011), PPR to acquire Italian men's fashion brand Brioni (https://www.reuters.com/article/ppr-idUKWEA177320111108) Reuters (/wiki/Reuters) . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Dominique Vidalon (17 March 2017), Kering picks Fabrizio Malverdi as CEO of Italy's Brioni (https://www.reuters.com/article/instant-article/idINL5N1GU1IT) Reuters (/wiki/Reuters) . ^ Jump up to: a b c d Koski, Lorna (23 September 2015). "Gaetano Savini's Daughter Pens Intro to 'Gaetano Savini, the Man Who Was Brioni' (https://wwd.com/eye/lifestyle/book-gaetano-savini-man-who-was-brioni-10235670/) " (https://wwd.com/eye/lifestyle/book-gaetano-savini-man-who-was-brioni-10235670/) . WWD . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20150924043242/http://wwd.com/eye/lifestyle/book-gaetano-savini-man-who-was-brioni-10235670/) from the original on 2015-09-24 . Retrieved 2021-03-31 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Mencyclopaedia: Brioni" (https://web.archive.org/web/20150721202028/http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/article/TMG9809365/Mencyclopaedia-Brioni.html) . Telegraph.co.uk . Archived from the original (http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/article/TMG9809365/Mencyclopaedia-Brioni.html) on 2015-07-21 . Retrieved 2015-06-16 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Brioni" (https://www.fashiondatabase.com/directory/fashion-brand/brioni) . FASHION DATABASE . 2019-07-12 . Retrieved 2021-03-31 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Tailored Trap for Men . Life. 10 October 1955. ^ (#cite_ref-7) Koski, Lorna (2015-09-23). "Gaetano Savini's Daughter Pens Intro to 'Gaetano Savini, the Man Who Was Brioni' (https://wwd.com/eye/lifestyle/book-gaetano-savini-man-who-was-brioni-10235670/) " (https://wwd.com/eye/lifestyle/book-gaetano-savini-man-who-was-brioni-10235670/) . WWD . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20150924043242/http://wwd.com/eye/lifestyle/book-gaetano-savini-man-who-was-brioni-10235670/) from the original on 2015-09-24 . Retrieved 2021-04-28 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "A Temple of Tailoring The Timeless Elegance of Brioni" (https://www.grailed.com/drycleanonly/brioni-master-class) . Grailed . Retrieved 2021-03-31 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) Visiting the source: making Brioni suits (http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2014/04/04/visiting-the-source-an-exclusive-education-on-the-making-of-brionis-suits/?_r=0) The New York Times , 14 April 2014 ^ (#cite_ref-10) Nalley, Richard. "Caruso's Umberto Angeloni: Fashion's Comeback King" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/richardnalley/2014/12/12/carusos-umberto-angeloni-fashions-comeback-king/) . Forbes . Retrieved 2021-04-28 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) Czerny, Anna (27 October 2007). "Brioni joins forces with the Royal College of Art" (https://www.drapersonline.com/news/brioni-joins-forces-with-the-royal-college-of-art) . Drapers . Retrieved 2021-03-31 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Angeloni Sells Stake in Brioni" (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/angeloni-sells-stake-in-brioni-1911441/) . WWD . 19 June 2007. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20210724182155/https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/angeloni-sells-stake-in-brioni-1911441/) from the original on 2021-07-24 . Retrieved 2021-03-31 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) Schwartz, Nelson D. (2009-08-10). "Brioni, Suitmaker to Presidents, Adapts to Crisis" (https://www.nytimes.com/2009/08/11/business/global/11brioni.html) . The New York Times . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0362-4331 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0362-4331) . Retrieved 2021-03-31 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) "FEATURE : Brioni, tailor to the glitterati, carries on doing what it does best despite recession - Taipei Times" (https://www.taipeitimes.com/News/worldbiz/archives/2010/05/04/2003472136) . www.taipeitimes.com . 5 May 2010. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20100509031537/http://www.taipeitimes.com:80/News/worldbiz/archives/2010/05/04/2003472136) from the original on 2010-05-09 . Retrieved 2021-03-31 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) Beastall, Chris (15 October 2009). "Brioni Launches Men's Scent" (https://www.apetogentleman.com/brioni-launches-mens-scent/) . Ape to Gentleman . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20210227070218/https://www.apetogentleman.com/brioni-launches-mens-scent/) from the original on 2021-02-27 . Retrieved 2021-03-31 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) "Brioni Names Andrea Perrone Group CEO" (https://www.elitetraveler.com/travel/travel-news/brioni-names-andrea-perrone-group-ceo) . Elite Traveler . 2009-07-15 . Retrieved 2021-03-31 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) Zargani, Luisa (2010-05-27). "Dell'Acqua to Design Brioni's Women's Line" (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/dell-acqua-to-design-brioni-s-women-s-line-3087495/) . WWD . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20210118020532/https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/dell-acqua-to-design-brioni-s-women-s-line-3087495/) from the original on 2021-01-18 . Retrieved 2021-03-31 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) Lerévérend, Anaïs. "Brioni discontinues women's line" (https://us.fashionnetwork.com/news/brioni-discontinues-women-s-line,513687.html) . FashionNetwork.com . Retrieved 2021-03-31 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) Mark Scott, PPR Acquires Italian Suit Maker Brioni (https://dealbook.nytimes.com/2011/11/08/ppr-acquires-italian-suit-maker-brioni/) , Nytimes.com , November 8, 2011 ^ (#cite_ref-20) Trebay, Guy (2020-01-08). "Brioni Girds for Men's Wear Combat" (https://www.nytimes.com/2020/01/08/fashion/brioni-kering-pitti-uomo-fall-2020-mens-wear.html) . The New York Times . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0362-4331 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0362-4331) . Retrieved 2021-04-28 . ^ Jump up to: a b Szmydke, Paulina (22 October 2014). "Kering Names Gianluca Flore Brioni CEO" (https://wwd.com/business-news/human-resources/brioni-appoints-new-ceo-7993120/) . WWD . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20170304115159/http://wwd.com/business-news/human-resources/brioni-appoints-new-ceo-7993120/) from the original on 2017-03-04 . Retrieved 2021-03-31 . ^ (#cite_ref-22) kering.com Brioni is strengthening its creative capacity and appoints Brendan Mullane as Creative Director (http://www.kering.com/fr/communiques-de-presse/brioni_is_strenghtening_its_creative_capacity_and_appoints_brendan_mullane_as) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20180730170829/http://www.kering.com/fr/communiques-de-presse/brioni_is_strenghtening_its_creative_capacity_and_appoints_brendan_mullane_as) 2018-07-30 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) 9 July 2012 ^ (#cite_ref-23) Lauren Milligan, vogue.co.uk Brioni's Brit (https://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2012/07/09/brioni-new-menswear-creative-director-brendan-mullane) 9 July 2012 ^ (#cite_ref-24) Schneier, Matthew (2014-04-30). "Dressing the Man of Means" (https://www.nytimes.com/2014/05/01/fashion/designers-are-waking-up-to-a-mens-luxury-fashion-market-Zegna-Brioni-and-Berluti.html) . The New York Times . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0362-4331 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0362-4331) . Retrieved 2021-04-28 . ^ (#cite_ref-25) Marc Bain, Lovers of Brioni suits shouldn’t worry that a heavily tattooed Australian is the brand’s new creative head (http://qz.com/645930/lovers-of-brioni-suits-shouldnt-worry-that-a-heavily-tattooed-australian-is-the-brands-new-creative-head/) qz.com March 23, 2016 ^ (#cite_ref-26) Schneier, Matthew (2016-07-02). "The New Brioni, Shaken and Stirred" (https://www.nytimes.com/2016/07/03/fashion/brioni-justin-oshea-luxury-suits.html) . The New York Times . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0362-4331 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0362-4331) . Retrieved 2021-03-31 . ^ (#cite_ref-27) Marc Bain, Lovers of Brioni suits shouldn’t worry that a heavily tattooed Australian is the brand’s new creative head (http://qz.com/645930/lovers-of-brioni-suits-shouldnt-worry-that-a-heavily-tattooed-australian-is-the-brands-new-creative-head/) qz.com March 23, 2016 ^ (#cite_ref-28) Elizabeth Patton, Brioni Announces Its Own Unconventional Hire (http://www.nytimes.com/2016/03/24/fashion/fashion-brioni.html?_r=0) The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) March 23, 2016 ^ (#cite_ref-29) LAUREN SHERMAN, #Menswear is Dead. What's Next? (http://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/menswear-movement-dead-mens-fashion-market-growth) JUNE 9, 2016 ^ (#cite_ref-30) Brioni is the Latest Brand to Revamp its Image But Will it Work? (http://www.thefashionlaw.com/home/brioni-is-the-latest-brand-to-revamp-its-image-but-will-it-work) June 29, 2016 The Fashion Law ^ (#cite_ref-31) MATTHEW SCHNEIER, The New Brioni, Shaken and Stirred (http://mobile.nytimes.com/2016/07/03/fashion/brioni-justin-oshea-luxury-suits.html) New York Times , JULY 2, 2016 ^ (#cite_ref-32) W magazine, Is Brioni's New Metallica Campaign Just John Varvatos-Lite? (http://www.wmagazine.com/fashion/2016/06/metallica-brioni-justin-oshea-new-campaign/) June 29, 2016, Max Lakin ^ (#cite_ref-33) Vogue (France), The new Brioni Man according to Justin O'Shea (http://en.vogue.fr/vogue-hommes/fashion/diaporama/the-new-brioni-man-according-to-justin-oshea/35482) , Thaïs Dubs, translated by Cosima Baring, 05 July 2016 ^ (#cite_ref-34) Abraham, Tamara (4 October 2016). "Justin O'Shea Exits Brioni" (https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/luxury/justin-oshea-out-at-brioni) . The Business of Fashion . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20201129110516/https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/luxury/justin-oshea-out-at-brioni) from the original on 2020-11-29 . Retrieved 2021-03-31 . ^ (#cite_ref-35) Berrington, Katie (4 October 2016). "Justin O'Shea Parts Ways With Brioni" (https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/justin-oshea-parts-ways-with-brioni) . British Vogue . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20161005204013/http://www.vogue.co.uk/article/justin-oshea-parts-ways-with-brioni) from the original on 2016-10-05 . Retrieved 2021-04-02 . ^ Jump up to: a b Justin O'Shea Exits Brioni (https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/news-analysis/justin-oshea-out-at-brioni) TAMARA ABRAHAM, Business of Fashion, October 4, 2016 ^ (#cite_ref-37) Conlon, Scarlett (17 March 2017). "Brioni Appoints CEO" (https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/brioni-appoints-new-ceo-fabrizio-malverdi) . British Vogue . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20170317140047/http://www.vogue.co.uk/article/brioni-appoints-new-ceo-fabrizio-malverdi) from the original on 2017-03-17 . Retrieved 2021-04-02 . ^ (#cite_ref-38) "Malverdi è il nuovo CEO di Brioni" (https://www.pambianconews.com/2017/03/17/malverdi-ceo-brioni-211050/) . Pambianconews.com (in Italian). 17 March 2017. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20170317160527/http://www.pambianconews.com/2017/03/17/malverdi-ceo-brioni-211050/) from the original on 2017-03-17 . Retrieved 2021-04-02 . ^ (#cite_ref-39) Brioni Names Nina-Maria Nitsche as Creative Director (https://www.nytimes.com/2017/06/16/fashion/brioni-nina-maria-nitsche.html) The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) , Elizabeth Paton, 2017/06/16 ^ (#cite_ref-40) Garner, Stephen (2018-07-27). "BRIONI PARTS WAYS WITH CREATIVE DIRECTOR NINA-MARIA NITSCHE" (https://mr-mag.com/brioni-parts-ways-with-creative-director-nina-maria-nitsche/) . MR Magazine . Retrieved 2021-04-02 . ^ (#cite_ref-41) Mazaheri, Tyler. "Brioni x Armie Hammer | The Primo Suit" (https://flaunt.com/content/brioni-armie-hammer) . Flaunt Magazine . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20190614041730/https://www.flaunt.com/content/brioni-armie-hammer) from the original on 2019-06-14 . Retrieved 2021-04-02 . ^ (#cite_ref-42) Muret, Dominique (27 July 2018). "Brioni creative director Nina-Maria Nitsche exits label" (https://ww.fashionnetwork.com/news/brioni-creative-director-nina-maria-nitsche-exits-label,1002080.html) . FashionNetwork.com . Retrieved 2021-04-02 . ^ (#cite_ref-43) Zargani, Luisa (2018-10-01). "Brioni Taps Norbert Stumpfl as Design Director" (https://wwd.com/business-news/human-resources/brioni-taps-norbert-stumpfl-as-design-director-1202863558/) . WWD . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20190113021926/https://wwd.com/business-news/human-resources/brioni-taps-norbert-stumpfl-as-design-director-1202863558/) from the original on 2019-01-13 . Retrieved 2021-04-02 . ^ (#cite_ref-44) Leitch, Luke. "Brioni Spring 2021 Menswear Collection" (https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2021-menswear/brioni) . Vogue . Retrieved 2021-04-02 . ^ (#cite_ref-45) Clarke, Ashely (November 2020). "Introducing An Exclusive, Era-Defining Collection From Brioni" (https://www.mrporter.com/en-it/journal/fashion/partnership-brioni-legacy-75-exclusive-collection-1473226) . Mrporter.com . ^ (#cite_ref-46) Spencer, Mimosa (2019-12-17). "Brioni Names Mehdi Benabadji CEO" (https://wwd.com/business-news/human-resources/brioni-mehdi-benabadji-ceo-1203401954/) . WWD . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20191217171256/https://wwd.com/business-news/human-resources/brioni-mehdi-benabadji-ceo-1203401954/) from the original on 2019-12-17 . Retrieved 2021-04-02 . ^ (#cite_ref-47) "The Kering Group: number of stores by brand worldwide 2020" (https://www.statista.com/statistics/1059134/number-of-kering-group-stores-worldwide-by-brand/) . Statista . Retrieved 2021-04-05 . ^ Jump up to: a b Casale, Rocky (4 April 2014). "An Exclusive Education on the Making of Brioni's Suits" (https://www.luxury-highlights.com/article/brioni-a-tailoring-tradition-with-deep-roots/) . The New York Times . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200424170856/https://www.luxury-highlights.com/article/brioni-a-tailoring-tradition-with-deep-roots/) from the original on 2020-04-24. ^ (#cite_ref-49) "Brioni: A Tailoring Tradition With Deep Roots" (https://www.luxury-highlights.com/article/brioni-a-tailoring-tradition-with-deep-roots/) . Luxury Highlights . January 2020. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20200424170856/https://www.luxury-highlights.com/article/brioni-a-tailoring-tradition-with-deep-roots/) from the original on 2020-04-24 . Retrieved 2021-04-05 . ^ (#cite_ref-50) Teddy Tinson (3 November 2014), Message in a Bottle (https://www.interviewmagazine.com/fashion/brioni-fragrance) Interview (/wiki/Interview_(magazine)) . ^ (#cite_ref-51) Who Is the Brioni Man? (https://www.vanityfair.com/style/2014/09/who-is-the-brioni-man) , Vanityfair.com , 12 November 2014 ^ (#cite_ref-52) Jennifer Weil (3 December 2019), Brioni, Lalique Group Ink Fragrance License (https://wwd.com/feature/brioni-lalique-group-fragrance-license-agreement-1203383667/) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-53) Alessandra Turra (31 May 2012), Brioni Launching Sunglasses Line (https://wwd.com/feature/brioni-launching-sunglasses-line-5933675-628110/) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-54) Brioni reaffirms bond to legendary men with Samuel L. Jackson-fronted effort (https://www.luxurydaily.com/brioni-reaffirms-bond-to-legendary-men-with-samuel-l-jackson-fronted-effort/) , Luxurydaily.com , 14 March 2017 ^ (#cite_ref-55) Sir Anthony Hopkins Is The Face For Brioni Fall 2017 Campaign (https://daman.co.id/sir-anthony-hopkins-is-the-face-for-brioni-fall-2017-campaign/) , Daman.co.id, 1 August 2017 ^ (#cite_ref-56) Harvey Keitel face of Brioni in latest campaign (https://www.arabnews.com/node/1237061/%7B%7B) , Arabnews.com , 1 February 2018 ^ (#cite_ref-57) Palmieri, Jean E. (2018-09-21). "Brioni Taps Pierce Brosnan for Fall Ads" (https://wwd.com/business-news/media/brioni-taps-pierce-brosnan-for-fall-ads-1202832456/) . WWD . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20180922002042/https://wwd.com/business-news/media/brioni-taps-pierce-brosnan-for-fall-ads-1202832456/) from the original on 2018-09-22 . Retrieved 2021-04-28 . ^ (#cite_ref-58) Brioni taps Matt Dillon for new 'Tailoring Legends'campaign (https://mr-mag.com/brioni-taps-matt-dillon-for-new-tailoring-legends-campaign/) , M Mr-mag.com , 10 July 2019 ^ (#cite_ref-59) Brioni Taps Brad Pitt as Brand Ambassador (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/brioni-taps-brad-pitt-as-brand-ambassador-1203372745/) , Wwd.com , 18 November 2019 ^ (#cite_ref-60) Luisa Zargani (25 January 2022), EXCLUSIVE: Brioni Names Jude, Raff Law Brand Ambassadors (https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-designer-luxury/brioni-names-jude-raff-law-brand-ambassadors-1235050077/) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-61) James Bond: The 6 designers of the 007 suits from the last 50 years (https://designlovr.de/en/magazine/fashion/james-bond-the-007-designer-suits/) , Designlovr.com ^ (#cite_ref-62) Dress like Patrick Bateman in American Psycho (https://www.apetogentleman.com/dress-like-patrick-bateman-in-american-psycho/) , Apetogentleman.com , 28 October 2015 ^ (#cite_ref-63) So How’s the Script for the Coen Brothers’ ‘Burn After Reading,’ Starring Pitt and Clooney? (https://www.vulture.com/2007/05/so_hows_the_script_for_the_coe.html) , Vulture.com , 21 May 2007 ^ (#cite_ref-64) Safronova, Valeriya (30 September 2016). "The Mystery of Trump's Suits, Solved" (https://www.nytimes.com/2016/10/07/fashion/mens-style/donald-trump-brioni-martin-greenfield-suits.html) . The New York Times . Retrieved 4 March 2024 . External links [ edit ] Official website (https://www.brioni.com/) v t e Kering (/wiki/Kering) People Founder François Pinault (/wiki/Fran%C3%A7ois_Pinault) Board of directors François-Henri Pinault (/wiki/Fran%C3%A7ois-Henri_Pinault) (Chairman and CEO) Jean-François Palus (/w/index.php?title=Jean-Fran%C3%A7ois_Palus&action=edit&redlink=1) (Group managing director) Patricia Barbizet (/wiki/Patricia_Barbizet) (Vice-Chair of the Board of Directors) Brands Creed (/wiki/Creed_(perfume)) Gucci (/wiki/Gucci) Saint Laurent (/wiki/Yves_Saint_Laurent_(brand)) Boucheron (/wiki/Boucheron) Bottega Veneta (/wiki/Bottega_Veneta) Balenciaga (/wiki/Balenciaga) Alexander McQueen (/wiki/Alexander_McQueen_(brand)) Brioni Qeelin (/wiki/Qeelin) Pomellato (/wiki/Pomellato) Dodo (/wiki/Pomellato#Dodo) Christopher Kane (/wiki/Christopher_Kane) Tomas Maier (/wiki/Tomas_Maier) Lindberg (/wiki/Lindberg_(eyewear)) Maui Jim (/wiki/Maui_Jim) Creed (/wiki/Creed_(perfume)) Valentino (/wiki/Valentino_(fashion_house)) Culture Kering Foundation (/wiki/Kering_Foundation) Women in Motion (/w/index.php?title=Women_in_Motion&action=edit&redlink=1) Portals (/wiki/Wikipedia:Contents/Portals) : Fashion (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Italy (/wiki/Portal:Italy) Companies (/wiki/Portal:Companies) Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) International VIAF (https://viaf.org/viaf/211813045) National Germany (https://d-nb.info/gnd/4414139-7) United States (https://id.loc.gov/authorities/n96000199) Other IdRef (https://www.idref.fr/050464612) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐58c7647fd9‐z2gz7 Cached time: 20240712174122 Cache expiry: 1664320 Reduced expiry: true Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.652 seconds Real time usage: 0.967 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 3528/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 91642/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 1867/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 15/100 Expensive parser function count: 11/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 162778/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.421/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 6940519/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 727.986 1 -total 38.52% 280.427 1 Template:Reflist 28.47% 207.288 30 Template:Cite_web 14.57% 106.048 1 Template:Infobox_company 13.47% 98.045 1 Template:Short_description 12.99% 94.578 1 Template:Infobox 11.46% 83.426 1 Template:PPR_(company) 11.03% 80.302 2 Template:Navbox 6.50% 47.325 8 Template:Main_other 6.09% 44.361 1 Template:SDcat Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:1974508-0!canonical and timestamp 20240712174122 and revision id 1222557514. 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Italian luxury fashion house For the ancient Greek garment, see Chiton (costume) (/wiki/Chiton_(costume)) . Kiton Native name Ciro Paone S.p.A. Company type Private Industry Fashion (menswear) Founded 1968 ; 56 years ago ( 1968 ) Arzano (/wiki/Arzano) , Campania (/wiki/Campania) , Italy Founder Ciro Paone Key people Antonio De Matteis (CEO), Maria Giovanna Paone (vice-president and the creative director) Antonio Paone (president of Kiton USA) Revenue €160 million [1] (#cite_note-1) (2022) Number of employees About 850 (2022) Kiton is an Italian fashion house founded by Ciro Paone in Arzano, NA (/wiki/Arzano) 1968. [2] (#cite_note-2) [3] (#cite_note-3) [4] (#cite_note-4) [5] (#cite_note-5) Founded in Arzano (/wiki/Arzano) , Naples (/wiki/Naples) in 1968 by Ciro Paone, Kiton is an Italian clothing company with its roots in traditional Italian tailoring. By the end of 2022, Kiton had 60 monobrand stores and 300 wholesale accounts worldwide. [6] (#cite_note-Zargani-6) The company's slogan is Il meglio del meglio più uno ("the best of the best plus one"). [7] (#cite_note-7) Kiton operates five manufacturing facilities located in Arzano (for their primary production), Caserta (/wiki/Caserta) (for sportswear), Parma (/wiki/Parma) (for outerwear), Fidenza (/wiki/Fidenza) (for knitwear), and Biella (/wiki/Biella) (for textiles). [6] (#cite_note-Zargani-6) [8] (#cite_note-Ausilio-8) [9] (#cite_note-9) [10] (#cite_note-10) Kiton owns the Carlo Barbera (/wiki/Carlo_Barbera) fabric mill. [11] (#cite_note-11) History [ edit ] Kiton is the trademark brand of the company Ciro Paone SpA, a company founded in 1956. [12] (#cite_note-12) It was set up at Arzano, in the province of Naples, in 1968. [13] (#cite_note-13) [14] (#cite_note-14) The name Kiton derives from the chiton (/wiki/Chiton_(garment)) ceremonial tunic (/wiki/Tunic) worn by the ancient Greeks (/wiki/Ancient_Greece) and Romans (/wiki/Ancient_Rome) . [15] (#cite_note-15) [16] (#cite_note-:0-16) The word chiton is derived from a Central Semitic language (/wiki/Central_Semitic_languages) * kittān (e.g. Hebrew (/wiki/Hebrew) כֻּתֹּנֶת kuttṓnĕṯ ), ultimately from a word for ' flax (/wiki/Flax) '. [17] (#cite_note-17) [18] (#cite_note-18) In 1995, Kiton launched a line of womenswear. [19] (#cite_note-19) In 1999 Carlo Azeglio Ciampi (/wiki/Carlo_Azeglio_Ciampi) , President of the Italian Republic, made Ciro Paone a member of the Order of Merit for Labour (/wiki/Order_of_Merit_for_Labour) ( Cavaliere del Lavoro ). [20] (#cite_note-20) In 2008, Ciro Paone purchased suits and other wardrobe items that once belonged to Edward VIII (/wiki/Edward_VIII) , the Duke of Windsor, from a 1998 Sotheby's (/wiki/Sotheby%27s) auction. These items were later showcased by Paone at the Excelsior hotel in Florence (/wiki/Florence) , Italy, during the biannual Pitti Uomo (/wiki/Pitti_Uomo) menswear show. The display highlighted the historical sartorial elements Paone incorporated into his contemporary designs for Kiton suits. [21] (#cite_note-21) In 2009, Kiton bought the Carlo Barbera (/wiki/Carlo_Barbera) woollen mill, which had been founded in 1949 in Biella (/wiki/Biella) . [22] (#cite_note-ilsole24-22) This allowed Kiton to work with delicate fibers such as viscose and create specialized yarns, dyes, and weaves. [23] (#cite_note-23) In 2013, Kiton acquired Palazzo Ferré, a building on Via Pontaccio that was home to the Gianfranco Ferré (/wiki/Gianfranco_Ferr%C3%A9) label for 14 years. After the restoration, it was planned that the second floor would house Kiton's showroom and offices, while the first floor would become a tailor's shop. [24] (#cite_note-24) [25] (#cite_note-25) In 2013, Kiton launched its retail operations in India (/wiki/India) . [26] (#cite_note-26) In 2015, Kiton launched its eyewear (/wiki/Eyewear) collection, [27] (#cite_note-27) and opened a 2,500-square-foot store in San Francisco (/wiki/San_Francisco) . [28] (#cite_note-28) In 2017 to mark the opening of Pitti Immagine Uomo 91, Ciro Paone received the Pitti Immagine career award. [29] (#cite_note-29) In 2018, Kiton launched an athleisure (/wiki/Athleisure) collection, called KNT (Kiton New Texture). The KNT brand is owned by twins Walter and Mariano de Matteis, the latest generation of the Kiton family. [30] (#cite_note-30) [31] (#cite_note-31) Also, in 2018, Sergio Mattarella (/wiki/Sergio_Mattarella) , President of the Italian Republic, awarded Kiton the Premio Leonardo Qualità Italia. [32] (#cite_note-32) [33] (#cite_note-33) Ciro Paone, the founder of Kiton, passed away at 88 in his home in Naples, Italy on October 27, 2021. [34] (#cite_note-34) [35] (#cite_note-35) [36] (#cite_note-36) [37] (#cite_note-37) In 2022, Kiton announced a new collaboration with Beatrice Venezi. [38] (#cite_note-38) In July 2023, Kiton began dressing the team and players of the London club Tottenham Hotspur (/wiki/Tottenham_Hotspur_F.C.) for official events. [39] (#cite_note-39) [40] (#cite_note-40) In July 2023, Kiton opened a 350 sq m flagship store in Seoul (/wiki/Seoul) in Cheongdam-dong (/wiki/Cheongdam-dong) . [41] (#cite_note-41) School of Advanced Tailoring [ edit ] In 2000, Kiton launched a training project with the foundation of the School of Advanced Tailoring, aimed at training new generations of tailors. [42] (#cite_note-42) Kiton developed this course with two main goals: to prepare young people to enter the labor market and to ensure that the workforce is constantly updated. [43] (#cite_note-43) The majority of the students hail from Naples, though there are also applications from international students. Approximately 80% of these students secure employment with Kiton or at other companies. [44] (#cite_note-44) [45] (#cite_note-45) The institution offers a three-year program aimed at training individuals between the ages of 16 and 21 for professional roles. The curriculum, delivered by in-house instructors, primarily focuses on jacket creation during the first two years. In the third year, students are encouraged to pick and delve deeper into a specific production stage. [46] (#cite_note-46) [47] (#cite_note-47) Production [ edit ] Kiton operates in the luxury goods (/wiki/Luxury_goods) sector and offers bespoke (/wiki/Bespoke) service, characterized by hand-cut and basted tailored suits, as well as ready-to-wear (/wiki/Ready-to-wear) men's and women's garments. Kiton maintains an integrated supply chain, with five company-owned factories: [8] (#cite_note-Ausilio-8) [16] (#cite_note-:0-16) Coats, jackets, shirts, ties, shoes, and small leather goods are produced at the company's headquarters in Arzano. [48] (#cite_note-48) Leather and bomber jackets are crafted in Collecchio (/wiki/Collecchio) . Knitwear originates from Fidenza (/wiki/Fidenza) . Jeans are produced in Marcianise (/wiki/Marcianise) , in the province of Caserta (/wiki/Caserta) . Fabrics are processed and developed at Biella (/wiki/Biella) , Kiton's proprietary woolen mill. As of the end of 2022, the company employs about 850 employees and sells its products in 73 countries, with over 60 monobrand stores and 300 wholesale accounts globally. [49] (#cite_note-49) [50] (#cite_note-50) Management [ edit ] Antonio de Matteis (CEO) [ edit ] Antonio de Matteis, the nephew of Ciro Paone, is the CEO and joint Creative Director of menswear at Kiton Group. [51] (#cite_note-51) Born in Naples in 1964, he started his career at Kiton under his uncle Ciro Paone, the founder of Kiton. In 1996, Antonio joined the Ciro Paone spa shareholder package, acquiring a 10% stake. By 2007, Ciro Paone appointed him as the CEO of the group. In 2018, Antonio initiated "Knt (Kiton new textures)", the first collection by his sons, Mariano and Walter De Matteis, representing the third generation of the Kiton family. In 2021–2022, Kiton saw a 60% increase in turnover, reaching €162 million. [52] (#cite_note-52) [53] (#cite_note-53) Maria Giovanna Paone (president) [ edit ] Maria Giovanna Paone (/wiki/Maria_Giovanna_Paone) , daughter of Ciro Paone, is the president and the creative director of the brand's womenswear. [54] (#cite_note-54) [55] (#cite_note-55) Maria Giovanna joined Kiton in 1986 and, under her leadership in 1995, introduced a line of womenswear. Paone currently holds the positions of president and creative director of the womenswear division at Kiton. She is an advocate for slow fashion and has been instrumental in expanding the women's collection with new accessories. Under Paone, the women's collection emphasized tailored jackets suitable for a range of settings and customers. By 2013, womenswear accounted for 20% of Kiton's total growth, with a marked presence in international markets, including Japan, Korea, Canada, and the U.S. The line's success also led to the development of a women's accessories range. Paone recognized the growing interest of women in high-end tailoring, a field often associated with men. In recognition of her contributions to the fashion industry, Paone received the Italian Forbes CEO Award in the Fashion category in 2021. Antonio Paone (president of Kiton USA) [ edit ] Antonio Paone is the president of Kiton USA. He began his career at Kiton, working from the ground up, starting as a driver and later becoming a fabric (/wiki/Fabric) scout across Europe. By 2004, he had risen to the role of commercial director and subsequently oversaw Kiton's US operations. Under his leadership, Kiton has expanded, notably with a new women's store on Madison Avenue (/wiki/Madison_Avenue) , and he also spearheaded the growth of Sartorio Napoli, a Kiton family brand. [56] (#cite_note-56) See also [ edit ] Made in Italy (/wiki/Made_in_Italy) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "CIRO PAONE S.P.A." (https://www.ilsole24ore.com/art/per-stile-kiton-anno-record-abbiamo-sempre-creduto-qualita-AEVuwDgC) . Il Sole 24 Ore (in Italian). 2023. ^ (#cite_ref-2) Golden Pages (/wiki/Golden_Pages) (ed.). "Azienda leader nel settore della migliore sartoria italiana, ad Arzano (NA), la Kiton è rinomata in tutto il mondo" (https://web.archive.org/web/20201129081128/https://www.paginegialle.it/sartoria-kiton-arzano-na#:~:text=Ad%20Arzano%2C%20in%20provincia%20di,tutto%20rigorosamente%20fatto%20a%20mano) (in Italian). Archived from the original (https://www.paginegialle.it/sartoria-kiton-arzano-na#:~:text=Ad%20Arzano%2C%20in%20provincia%20di,tutto%20rigorosamente%20fatto%20a%20mano) on 29 November 2020 . Retrieved 28 November 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) New York Times (/wiki/New_York_Times) , ed. (22 April 2014). "Naples, a Haven of Hand Work" (https://www.nytimes.com/2014/04/22/fashion/Naples-a-haven-of-tailoring-by-hand.html) . The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Art, Charity and Fashion Event - Milano da Bere" (https://milanodabere.it/eventi/art-charity-and-fashion-event-a-palazzo-kiton/) . milanodabere.it (in Italian). 12 May 2023 . Retrieved 10 October 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Temporeale, Redazione (15 November 2021). "Kiton, il marchio di alta sartoria napoletana" (https://www.temporeale.info/115540/argomenti/economia/kiton-il-marchio-di-alta-sartoria-napoletana.html) . Temporeale Quotidiano (in Italian) . Retrieved 10 October 2023 . ^ Jump up to: a b Zargani, Luisa (5 December 2022). "Kiton Grows Business, Expands Retail Network" (https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-designer-luxury/kiton-grows-business-expands-retail-1235435725/) . WWD . Retrieved 10 October 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "Milano Fashion Week: l'uomo essenziale di Kiton" (https://www.affaritaliani.it/milano/milan-show-biz/milano-fashion-week-uomo-essenziale-di-kiton-862022.html) . Affaritaliani.it (in Italian). 22 June 2023 . Retrieved 10 October 2023 . ^ Jump up to: a b Ausilio, Claudia (27 October 2021). "Addio a Ciro Paone della Kiton: la sartoria napoletana scelta dagli uomini più ricchi del mondo" (https://www.vesuviolive.it/aree-locali/notizie-di-napoli/410207-kiton-ciro-paone-morto/) . Vesuvio Live (in Italian) . Retrieved 10 October 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) IT, FashionNetwork com. "Kiton apre al pubblico il Palazzo di via Pontaccio per "The Elegant Man" (https://it.fashionnetwork.com/news/kiton-apre-al-pubblico-il-palazzo-di-via-pontaccio-per-the-elegant-man-,969027.html) " (https://it.fashionnetwork.com/news/kiton-apre-al-pubblico-il-palazzo-di-via-pontaccio-per-the-elegant-man-,969027.html) . FashionNetwork.com (in Italian) . Retrieved 10 October 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "De Matteis (Kiton): "Vendere azienda? Mai. Ora puntiamo su Asia, e-commerce e relocation" (https://it.fashionnetwork.com/news/De-matteis-vendere-azienda-mai-ora-puntiamo-su-asia-e-commerce-e-relocation-,1292947.html) " (https://it.fashionnetwork.com/news/De-matteis-vendere-azienda-mai-ora-puntiamo-su-asia-e-commerce-e-relocation-,1292947.html) . FashionNetwork.com (in Italian) . Retrieved 10 October 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) Olsen, Kerry; Palmieri, Jean E. (6 October 2010). "Kiton Buys Carlo Barbera Mill" (http://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/kiton-buys-carlo-barbera-mill-3329528/) . Women's Wear Daily . ^ (#cite_ref-12) la Repubblica (/wiki/La_Repubblica) , ed. (11 June 2014). "Kiton, l'alta sartoria napoletana che ha stregato gli Stati Uniti" (https://www.repubblica.it/next/eccellenze-in-digitale/2014/06/05/news/kiton_l_alta_sartoria_napoletana_che_ha_stregato_gli_stati_uniti-87001492/) (in Italian). ^ (#cite_ref-13) " (https://www.esquire.com/it/stile/moda-uomo/a19618489/kiton/) "Il futuro dell'eleganza è la comodità": lo dice Kiton" (https://www.esquire.com/it/stile/moda-uomo/a19618489/kiton/) . Esquire (in Italian). 28 March 2018 . Retrieved 10 October 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) "Antonio De Matteis (Kiton) eletto ambasciatore del Made in Italy da NIAF" (https://it.fashionnetwork.com/news/Antonio-de-matteis-eletto-ambasciatore-del-made-in-italy-da-niaf,1024427.html) . FashionNetwork.com (in Italian) . Retrieved 10 October 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) la Repubblica (/wiki/La_Repubblica) , ed. (23 February 2017). " (https://www.repubblica.it/economia/2017/04/23/news/donne_impresa_kiton-163555833/) "Mi volevano a casa, sono diventata manager". Il riscatto nell'alta sartoria di Maria Giovanna Paone" (https://www.repubblica.it/economia/2017/04/23/news/donne_impresa_kiton-163555833/) (in Italian). ^ Jump up to: a b Il Mattino (/wiki/Il_Mattino) , ed. (14 April 2017). "Kiton, il successo di ago e filo" (https://www.ilmattino.it/napoli/style/kiton_successo_ago_filo-2381143.html) (in Italian). ^ (#cite_ref-17) "Dress in the International Standard Bible Encyclopedia" (https://www.internationalstandardbible.com/D/dress.html) . International Standard Bible Encyclopedia Online . ^ (#cite_ref-18) Blinderman, Charles (1 January 1990). BIOLEXICON: A Guide to the Language of Biology . Charles C Thomas Publisher. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780398082277 – via Google Books. ^ (#cite_ref-19) DeAcetis, Joseph. "The Capitalist Touch: Kiton's Giovanna Paone Unveils Luxury Women's Collection" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/josephdeacetis/2012/10/22/kitons-giovanna-paone-unveils-luxury-womens-collection/) . Forbes . 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"Why Kiton is Worth Every Cent: The Artistry and Nuance Behind Kiton's Exquisite Luxury Tailoring" (https://medium.com/blogninja/why-kiton-is-worth-every-cent-the-artistry-and-nuance-behind-kitons-exquisite-luxury-tailoring-d9709737e29e) . blogninja . Retrieved 10 October 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-24) Turra, Alessandra (27 November 2013). "Kiton Acquires Palazzo Ferré" (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/kiton-acquires-palazzo-ferr-7293961/) . WWD . Retrieved 10 October 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-25) Chris (27 November 2013). "Kiton Announces Acquisition of Palazzo Ferré" (https://elitetraveler.com/shopping-lifestyle/kiton-announces-acquisition-of-palazzo-ferre) . Elite Traveler . Retrieved 10 October 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-26) "Clothing brand Kiton comes to India" (https://www.deccanherald.com/content/363965/clothing-brand-kiton-comes-india.html) . Deccan Herald . 19 October 2013 . Retrieved 21 March 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-27) Szmydke, Paulina (26 September 2015). "Kiton Launches Eyewear Line in Paris" (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/kiton-eyewear-paris-10243392/) . WWD . Retrieved 21 March 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-28) Palmieri, Jean E. (11 March 2015). "Kiton Opening San Francisco Store" (https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-retail-business/kiton-opening-san-francisco-store-10094051/) . WWD . Retrieved 21 March 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-29) "Moda: Pitti Uomo, mostra tributo a Ciro Paone - Notizie - Ansa.it" (https://www.ansa.it/toscana/notizie/2017/01/10/moda-pitti-uomo-mostra-tributo-a-ciro-paone_a95352b7-7141-4b67-9e73-a7ab382fd686.html) . Agenzia ANSA (in Italian). 10 January 2017 . Retrieved 10 October 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-30) "Walter e Mariano De Matteis di KNT" (https://manintown.com/walter-mariano-de-matteis/2023/06/13/) . MANINTOWN (in Italian). 13 June 2023 . Retrieved 10 October 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-31) Reddinger, Paige (5 October 2018). "Kiton Gets Hip with New Urbanwear Collection KNT" (https://robbreport.com/style/menswear/kiton-new-urbanwear-collection-knt-2821434/) . Robb Report . Retrieved 21 March 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-32) "I vincitori dei Premi Leonardo Qualità 2017 premiati a Palazzo Barberini" (https://www.comitatoleonardo.it/it/premi/vincitori-dei-premi-leonardo-qualita-italia-2017/) . Comitato Leonardo (in Italian) . Retrieved 10 October 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-33) "Premio Leonardo Qualità Italia a Herno - Moda - Ansa.it" (https://www.ansa.it/sito/notizie/cultura/moda/2018/02/23/premio-leonardo-qualita-italia-a-herno_e8b007b9-abb7-4192-b692-472c1b25029b.html) . Agenzia ANSA (in Italian). 23 February 2018 . Retrieved 10 October 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-34) Salibian, Sandra; Carrera, Martino; Turra, Alessandra; Palmieri, Jean E. (27 October 2021). "Kiton's Founder Ciro Paone Dies at 88" (https://wwd.com/eye/people/kiton-founder-ciro-paone-dies-1234984780/) . WWD . Retrieved 10 October 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-35) Spötter, Ole (28 October 2021). "Kiton-Gründer Ciro Paone im Alter von 88 Jahren verstorben" (https://fashionunited.de/nachrichten/personen/kiton-gruender-ciro-paone-im-alter-von-88-jahren-verstorben/2021102843495) . FashionUnited (in German) . Retrieved 10 October 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-36) " (https://www.textilwirtschaft.de/business/news/ein-visionaer-eine-legende-italien-trauert-um-kiton-gruender-233069) "Ein Visionär, eine Legende": Italien trauert um Kiton-Gründer" (https://www.textilwirtschaft.de/business/news/ein-visionaer-eine-legende-italien-trauert-um-kiton-gruender-233069) . textilwirtschaft.de (in German) . Retrieved 10 October 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-37) "The Death of the Father of Sartorial Fashion - Ciro Paone's Kiton legacy" (https://isuit.it/en/blog/ciro-paone-passes-away-father-of-kiton) . isuit.it . Retrieved 10 October 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-38) Redazione (27 June 2022). "Kiton annuncia la nuova collaborazione con Beatrice Venezi" (https://montenapodaily.com/2022/06/27/kiton-annuncia-la-nuova-collaborazione-con-beatrice-venezi/) . Montenapo Daily (in Italian) . Retrieved 10 October 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-39) Naef, Isabella (27 July 2023). "Kiton veste il Tottenham Hotspur F.C. per le occasioni formali" (https://fashionunited.it/news/moda/kiton-veste-il-tottenham-hotspur-f-c-per-le-occasioni-formali/2023072724526) . FashionUnited (in Italian) . Retrieved 10 October 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-40) "Knt veste il Tottenham" (https://it.fashionnetwork.com/news/Knt-veste-il-tottenham,1540819.html) . FashionNetwork.com (in Italian) . Retrieved 10 October 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-41) "Kiton opens flagship store in Seoul" (https://ww.fashionnetwork.com/news/Kiton-opens-flagship-store-in-seoul,1534370.html) . FashionNetwork.com . Retrieved 10 October 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-42) ArtifexOfficial (19 June 2021). "The Definitive Guide to Italian Tailoring Schools" (https://www.discoverartifex.com/post/the-definitive-guide-to-italian-tailoring-schools) . Mysite . Retrieved 10 October 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-43) D'Uonno, Maria (2017). "A Handbook for Tailoring Craftsmanship Industries. Communicate the Intangible Values of Traditional Methods through Images" (https://doi.org/10.3390%2Fproceedings1090912) . Proceedings . 1 (9): 912. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.3390/proceedings1090912 (https://doi.org/10.3390%2Fproceedings1090912) . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 2504-3900 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/2504-3900) . ^ (#cite_ref-44) Studio, Fairchild (16 June 2023). "Never Stopping" (https://wwd.com/business-news/business-features/kiton-never-stopping-1235689859/) . WWD . Retrieved 10 October 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-45) Menkes, Suzy (21 April 2014). "Naples, a Haven of Hand Work" (https://www.nytimes.com/2014/04/22/fashion/Naples-a-haven-of-tailoring-by-hand.html) . The New York Times . 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Archived from the original (https://forbes.it/2019/02/28/kiton-alta-moda-italiana-maschile-lusso/) on 8 December 2020 . Retrieved 10 October 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-50) Toscanini, Industrie (22 April 2022). "Made in Italy tradition and innovation for the Kiton brand" (https://www.toscanini.it/en/the-renewed-tradition-of-made-in-italy-kiton-makes-the-difference-mariano-and-walter-de-matteis-talk-about-knt/) . Toscanini . Retrieved 10 October 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-51) "By the sea: Antonio de Matteis, CEO of Kiton" (https://www.boatinternational.com/luxury-yacht-life/people-parties/by-the-sea-antonio-de-matteis-ceo-of-kiton--37235) . www.boatinternational.com . Retrieved 10 October 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-52) Naef, Isabella (23 February 2023). "Pitti Immagine: Antonio De Matteis (Kiton) è il nuovo presidente" (https://fashionunited.it/news/persone/pitti-immagine-antonio-de-matteis-kiton-e-il-nuovo-presidente/2023022324024) . FashionUnited (in Italian) . 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The European Business Review . 23 October 2022 . Retrieved 10 October 2023 . 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It has been suggested that Armenian Lace (/wiki/Armenian_Lace) be merged (/wiki/Wikipedia:Merging) into this article. ( Discuss (/wiki/Talk:Armenian_needlelace) ) Proposed since March 2024. This article needs additional citations for verification (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this article (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Armenian_needlelace) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Find sources: "Armenian needlelace" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Armenian+needlelace%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Armenian+needlelace%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Armenian+needlelace%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Armenian+needlelace%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Armenian+needlelace%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Armenian+needlelace%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( September 2010 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Armenian Needlelace circa 2004 Armenian needlelace (also known as Bebilla , Nazareth Lace and Knotted Lace ) is a pure form of needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) made using only a needle, thread and pair of scissors. Various threads are used in embroidery: cotton, silk, wool (often colored), as well as beads, pearls, feathers, precious stones, gold threads, silver threads, coins, etc. Embroidery is used to decorate clothes, hats, blankets, socks, household items to create decorative images. History [ edit ] Needlework comes from ancient times, when people used plant thorns and fish bones instead of needles, then wood, ivory, metal needles. From early historical times, they started working with gold threads, then with wool, later with cotton threads. Woolen thread was used in embroidery in China in 1200 BC. Assyrians (/wiki/Assyrian_people) , Jews (/wiki/Jews) , Persians (/wiki/Persians) , Greeks (/wiki/Greeks) , and Romans (/wiki/Roman_people) used embroidery in the ancient world, and the most famous center was Babylon (/wiki/Babylon) . The decorations of clothes depicted on Assyrian-Babylonian statues, Egyptian sculptures, wall paintings and embroidered fragments found during archaeological excavations give an idea of the oldest samples. Embroidery was widespread all over the world. some old samples were found. In ancient Greek (/wiki/Greek_mythology) mythology, embroidery is attributed to the goddess Athena (/wiki/Athena) , which is reflected in the iconography of the famous contest between her and the mortal Arachne (/wiki/Arachne) . Like lacis, or filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) , Armenian needlelace seems to be an obvious descendant of net making. Where lacis adds decorative stitches to a net ground, Armenian needlelace involves making the net itself decorative. Representations of the lace have been described on ancient statuary, and in centuries-old stonework. [1] (#cite_note-1) There is some archeological evidence suggesting the use of lace in prehistoric Armenia (/wiki/Armenia) and the prevalence of pre-Christian symbology in traditional designs would certainly suggest a pre-Christian root for this art form. [2] (#cite_note-2) In contrast to Europe (/wiki/Europe) where lace was the preserve of the nobility, in Armenia it decorated everything from traditional headscarves to lingerie and lacemaking was part of many or most women's lives. Technique [ edit ] The lace is made by tying knots, usually tied onto the previous round of the piece creating small loops of thread onto which the next round of knots can be tied. Patterns are created by varying the length of the loops, missing loops from the previous round, adding extra loops and similar. When used as an edging the lace can be made directly onto the hem of the fabric being edged. When a doily or freeform object (such as the birds and flowers decorating traditional headscarves) is being started a series of loops is tied onto a slip knot which is pulled tight to complete the first round. [3] (#cite_note-3) Armenian embroidery is rich in materials used as a base - leather, fabric, etc., as well as thread types and additional decorations. All kinds of wool, cotton, silk textures and home-made threads are used in traditional Armenian embroidery. The main tools of embroidery are a needle, thimble, scissors and a frame, which was of two types - square and circular. The square circles were called karkah (it’s a frame for embroidery). If embroidery stands were large, were adapted to be placed on the ground, and if small, to be fixed on the table. Golden thread embroidery is a constituent part of Armenian artistic needlework, which was widely spread throughout Armenia since ancient times. Armenian masters knew many ways of performing gold thread and silver thread embroidery, whose component parts were gold and silver. Types of Embroidery [ edit ] The patterns in Armenian embroidery are diverse, ranging from plant and animal ornaments to geometric figures and depictions of heavenly bodies. Embroiderers in different settlements developed these patterns in their own unique ways. There are also various types of embroideries, and samples have been preserved in Matenadaran, proving the diversity of Armenian embroidery. The most common types of embroidery include: chainsaw ring side by side suture crossing suture knitting needle suture In the case of thread-weight sewing, the place of the threads pulled from the fabric is patterned with other threads, Topstitch has its types: Patterns are made from other pieces on a large piece. Filling - the surface of the cloth is filled with patterns. Hammock thread covers the surface of the pattern by the threads of the fabric Embroiderers of different places used different stitches, in the white embroidery of Aintap, the patterns were made with thread, hammer, and linear platform. The platform of Marash embroidery is called needle-needle, the stitches are uneven, and the pattern is covered over the cloth by taking only a few threads from the cloth with the working thread. Ancient Armenian Embroidery [ edit ] Embroidery was widespread in all Armenian (/wiki/Armenia) regions, concentrating in Van-Vaspurakan (/wiki/Vaspurakan) , Shirak-Karin, Syunik-Artsakh, Ararat land, Cilicia (/wiki/Cilicia) and the two major centers of Armenian culture in Tbilisi (/wiki/Tbilisi) and Constantinople (/wiki/Constantinople) , as well as in the schools of settlements. Keeping the national uniform style, each school has developed its own forms and types of embroidery. Armenian embroidery mainly developed in three major branches: democratic, related to rural dress and lifestyle urban, commercial-industrial ecclesiastical Ecclesiastical Embroidery [ edit ] Ecclesiastical embroidery is divided into two groups: embroidered items used during church utensils and rituals, and fabrics used for the ritual clothing of clergy. The first group includes curtains, aprons, table and other covers, crucifixes, towels, handkerchiefs for holding the cross, carpets, pillows, decorations of the throne of the Catholicos, embroidered pictures, etc. The second group consists of embroidered shirts, crowns and helmets, belts, slippers, etc. One of the important components of the interior decoration of Armenian churches are the curtains, which are of three types - the tabernacle, the baptistery, and the baptismal basin. On the curtains are depicted Holy Mother, the four Evangelists (/wiki/Four_Evangelists) , the vision of St. Gregory the Illuminator (/wiki/Gregory_the_Illuminator) , St. Gevorg and other scenes with biblical themes. There are two types of embroidered church carpets: eagle carpets and floral carpets. Floral carpets are woven with different threads and techniques and very densely placed ornaments. The floral patterns of these carpets have a lot in common with the frescoes and sculptures of Etchmiadzin Cathedral (/wiki/Etchmiadzin_Cathedral) , which allows us to assume that they were also specially ordered and made in embroidery workshops. Eagle carpets are of special interest. These are quadrangular and round fabrics of different sizes, on which eagles are embroidered with images of snakes, scorpions above or below. Armenian Embroidery [ edit ] Embroidery is one of the widely spread crafts in Armenia (/wiki/Armenia) , which has an ancient origin. Since the 5th century, Armenian historians have left descriptions of luxurious clothing and church decorations, most of which were embroidered. Thanks to them, we have data and information on Armenian textiles from the early Middle Ages, which at the same time indirectly testify to the earlier origin of embroidery. Other evidences of the high development of embroidery in medieval Armenia are the miniatures. The miniatures contain very valuable pictorial and descriptive data on needlework. The variety of embroidered items in the miniatures makes it possible to distinguish three groups of embroidery: clothes, household items, and ecclesiastical outfit. The 13th century fabric samples found in the excavations of Ani (/wiki/Ani) are high-value examples of embroidery. Among the exceptional samples, the silk clothes, blankets, and other pieces of fabric taken from the tomb of Tigran Honents' relative stand out. The mentioned items are embroidered with different threads, embroideries and ornaments, which gives an opportunity to get an idea about the features of medieval Armenian embroidery, the high skill of accomplishment, and in particular the aesthetic taste and other phenomena of the population of Ani. Remarkable examples of medieval embroidery are the textures pasted under the covers of the Matenadaran manuscripts, three of which N3661 (copied in 1267), N521 (XIV century), N1518 (XVI century) were studied and described by Davtyan. They are interesting from the point of view of the fabric, the threads and, especially, the ornaments and embroidery techniques. Incomparably large and rich are the collections of church silk thread, gold thread precious embroidery, among which the oldest sample is the religious banner of Etchmiadzin Treasury. Van-Vaspurakan Embroidery [ edit ] Van was Armenian with various needlework, Armenians spread the Van stitch in different countries: Cilicia, Constantinople, and Middle East. Van was also famous for its types of lace. In the fine embroidered laces, ancient motifs of the universe, flora and fauna, geometric motifs have been preserved. Lace was made by tying knots that were usually tied in the previous round of cloth, creating small loops of thread that were tied into subsequent knots. The patterns were created by changing the length of the loops, adding additional loops to the previous loops. [4] (#cite_note-4) Tablecloths, curtains, carpets, handcrafts of monasteries (Lim, Aghtamar, Varagavank, Msho Arakelots monastery, etc.) were preserved from Van-Vaspurakan. Clothes, necklaces, bracelets, cuffs, aprons, kachak-chambars, mezars, etc. were decorated. Men's clothes also had embroidered parts, including pants and shawls,   whose fabric with bunches protected them from cold and rain. Among the samples in the Yerevan State Museum, a 6 and a half-meter-long towel embroidered by Van is preserved, and the napkins also had ornaments. Preserved samples of needlework feature many images of the tree of life. At the beginning of the 20th century, embroideries with patriotic and historical scenes gained popularity. Examples include: "Mother Armenia," "Artsiv Vaspurakani," "Khrimyan Hayrik," "Varaga Monastery," "Aghtamar," "Sipana Sar". [5] (#cite_note-5) The royal flag of Artsrun is a remarkable embroidered work. Shirak-Karin Embroidery [ edit ] The oldest examples of embroidery are from the 10th-13th centuries. Among them are the clothes from the tomb of a relative of Tigran Honentsi, discovered by N. Mar during the excavations of Ani, including the top, cover, and other samples. [6] (#cite_note-6) A masterpiece of Ani's handiwork is the image of a lion and a lioness made with gold thread on a black veil, displayed on a tree stand. The miniatures of the manuscripts preserved in Matenadaran are noteworthy, where embroidered pieces are used instead of the lining of the cover, depicting trees of life and plant ornaments. Ani's embroidery is characterized by intricate stitching, where one image is stitched with several types of stitches, and the gold thread and silk thread harmoniously complement each other. In the 19th century, the regions of Shirak and the city of Gyumri, renowned for their rich culture, housed embroiderers' workshops where more than seven dozen masters and six dozen apprentices worked alongside two hundred silk and gold thread embroiderers. Similar organizations were also found in Shushi, Yerevan, Tiflis, Nor Bayazet, and Karin. One notable master embroiderer, Melkon Chilingaryan, showcased the Armenian costume (Armenian cloth) at Caucasian exhibitions in London, Paris, Moscow, and Petersburg between 1853-1873. In Shirak-Karin, the production of embroidered cloth flourished, adorned with various patterns. A diverse collection of embroidered towels exists, with each towel featuring a unique ornament. Additionally, there are preserved samples of silk purses decorated with gold thread. A church curtain has been preserved, and its inscription indicates that it was dedicated to the Church of St. Lusavorch by Maryam in 1613. When Armenians migrated from Karin, they also brought along embroidered images known as "Seven Wounds." The depiction of "Seven Wounds" can be found in the ‘’St. Yot Verk’’ Church of Gyumri. [7] (#cite_note-7) In Kharberd, women were also involved in embroidery, particularly notable were the embroidered saltas, a short top with long sleeves adorned with floral motifs in gold thread. [8] (#cite_note-8) Syunik Embroidery [ edit ] The embroidery tradition in Syunik extends to the Zangezur, Sisian, Goris, and Kapan regions. The earliest examples of embroidery found in these communities date back to the 17th century. These works feature intricate patterns, pearls, and gem embellishments, crafted with gold thread. Various elements of costumes, such as ties, shirt chests, and buttonholes, were adorned with embroidery. Members of the upper class, both men and women, had their ‘’mahude mushtas’’ intricately embroidered with gold thread. Household items like curtains, pillows, towels, and tablecloths were beautifully embroidered. Towels showcased a variety of embroidery styles, including white and colored threads, flat and thread-weight techniques. Common patterns included the S-shaped tree of life and cross-stitch designs. Spoon bowls were also embellished with embroidery. Syunik's embroidery extended to the ‘’giardaklyoch’’, the embroidered head of the curtain that adorns the bride's corner. This piece was adorned with ribbons and acorn, the latter covered in embroidery. Magical items like ‘’dzhu-chamayil’’ and ‘’fridayanuk’’ were also decorated with embroidery. Girls' and brides' shoes featured intricate gold thread embroidery. Noteworthy were the tassel-handles, embroidered with carpet patterns, using various stitches such as shulal, flat, chain, and cross stitch. Pipe and lamp glass cases were also embroidered and adorned with beads. Luxurious floral patterns decorated the cover of the baby's crib. A renowned example is the ‘’kranpapatan’’, embroidered with floral patterns using colored silk thread. Syunik gained fame for its overhead embroidery, where patterns cut from different cloth were attached to a single-shaded fabric with ornaments. Towels often showcased embroidered patterns in the shape of a tree of life. In 1651, Catholicos Philip received an embroidered eagle carpet presented by the priest Voskan. [9] (#cite_note-9) This remarkable piece featured golden and silver feathers, a large eagle, cross domes on both sides, heavenly luminaries, and the image of a man above. The embroidery was convex, with intricate vegetable patterns. Syunik's monasteries also housed remarkable embroidered curtains, including a preserved sample crafted by Grigor Tatevevatsi’s (/wiki/Gregory_of_Tatev) sister at the Tatev monastery (/wiki/Tatev_Monastery) . Ararat Embroidery [ edit ] Ararat embroidery has a long history and ancient traditions. Already in the 19th and 20th centuries, he embroidered suede coats, bras, and linens. The cylindrical cushions of the couch, the mutt akas, were embroidered with gold thread and silk thread. Beadwork was also used at the same time. Curtains, tablecloths, towels, candlestick tablecloths, handkerchiefs, purses were also embroidered. The embroidered items of the Ararat valley are decorated with gold threads, glitters, and pearl threads. The embroidered church items preserved from the 17th century are notable for their embroidered offering letters. [10] (#cite_note-10) A manuscript copied in 1684 is kept in the Matenadaran, it has a satin cover. The shirt is made of silk black satin, embroidered with clapiton in golden thread, decorated with pearls, with two and three legs. There are embroidered carpets in the Etchmiadzin Cathedral, the eagle carpets were embroidered with silk threads and convex flats. Gold thread embroidered carpets on ‘’mahudi’’ or ‘’tavits’’ are made with top embroidery. There are a lot of embroidered samples of church vestments, lapels, and blinds. One of the oldest veils is the veil of the Catholicos of Khachatur (16th century), on one side is Mary holding the baby Jesus, on the other, Christ crucified. The gold thread embroidered surface is covered with ornaments made of silver thread, it is decorated with beads, and there is a large crystal and 5 hyacinths on it. Cilicia Embroidery [ edit ] Handmade art has a long history in Cilicia, dating back to ancient times. Even after the fall of the kingdom and during periods of foreign rule, Armenians in Cilicia continued to preserve their artistic traditions, crafts, and culture. In the 19th century, embroidery emerged as a highly developed art form in Cilicia, with each settlement having its unique and distinct style of embroidery. Ayntap’s sewing Marash’s sewing Urfa’s sewing Svaz’s sewing Rubinyants’s sewing Tarson’s sewing The most delicate embroidery is crafted using Aintap white thread on transparent fabric, employing a thread-weight, linear platform. Urfa embroidery is executed on Manisa cloth with gold and silk threads. The pattern is bordered with gold or silk thread, incorporating thread weight and flat stitches. The short ends of the needle are arranged obliquely in rows next to each other. Kilikia stitch involves the tongues of one colored thread entering the field of the other colored thread, resulting in small and dense stitches. The art of lace-making flourished in Aintap and Urfa. In Sebastia, needlework was widespread, employing shulal and slanting stitches. Swazi and Sebastian's notable stitch is the tars stitch, where the ornament made with colored thread patterns the cloth from below, achieving the desired pattern on the surface. Young women's aprons and socks were commonly embroidered. Tarson stitch involves silk thread filling on sheer fabric. The Zeytun seam, known as a blunt needle, involves the working thread filling the pattern on the cloth, and the threads sticking to each other from the side. The edges can be short and long, and the surface is convex. The Marash stitch had several versions; one was made flat using a needle-needle technique, and the other was a woven stitch. The technique is confidential, with the working thread following a specific order of transitions known only to the embroiderer. Various threads, including woolen, cotton, silk, and gold winding threads, were used. [11] (#cite_note-11) The Cesarean stitch is very delicate. The embroidery is made with gold and silk threads on the transparent cloth, it is a thick seam. Armenian Embroidery of Tiflis [ edit ] Armenian art and culture were also very popular in Tiflis. It was a unique center for Armenian culture. Until the first half of the 20th century, an Armenian nunnery operated in Tiflis, where the girls were engaged in needlework with gold thread and silk thread. One of the samples of manuscript covers kept in the Matenadaran is a work from 1766, created in Tiflis. The Armenian embroiderers of Tiflis specialized in embroidering linen, household items, curtains, tablecloths, etc. After 1915, the Armenian immigrants who settled in Tiflis brought with them rich cultural traditions, especially lace-making, from different Armenian-populated regions. The Typology of Armenian Embroidery [ edit ] Armenian embroidery is divided into two major types: secular (with rural and urban subtypes) and ecclesiastical, within which the embroidery of clothes (national taraz and ecclesiastical outfits) and household items is distinguished. Both types of handicrafts are distinguished by the variety of used materials, threads, technical skills, the abundance of ornaments and various assortments. In the second half of the 19th century, several schools of Armenian (/wiki/Armenia) embroidery were formed - in Van-Vaspurakan (/wiki/Kingdom_of_Vaspurakan) , Upper Armenia (/wiki/Upper_Armenia) , Shirak-Javakhk, Lesser Armenia, Cilicia (/wiki/Cilicia) , Airarat (/wiki/Ayrarat) and Syunik-Artsakh. Each of these schools has its own characteristics of handicrafts which are manifested in the materials used, threads, color shades, embellishments, areas of application and sewing techniques. Ornaments [ edit ] Armenian folk embroidery is also rich in its colouring system, which is expressed especially in ornaments. Perhaps the most important place in the art is occupied by vegetable ornaments, which have been known in Armenian applied art since ancient times. Floral motifs are very diverse, multifaceted and found in embroidery both in stylized, geometric forms and in a natural form. The most popular and common among plant motifs are flower motifs, which appear not only in huge numbers, but also in various forms. In various embroidery works, flowers appear both separately, as the main motif, and together with other images, complementing them and decorating the whole composition. Often, the flower patterns are repeated, incessantly continuing each other, or they form a bunch. Floral ornaments are not limited to flowers. In general, the nature of Armenia and the occupations of the people are reflected in Armenian folk embroidery. Armenian fine art is also rich in images of fruits. All the fruits common in Armenia are represented in embroidery, but the most popular are the motifs of grapes, pomegranates, apples, and pears. The most important expression of plant motifs in Armenian applied art is the tree of life, which is represented in the most various ways, sometimes highly stylized and generalized. The tree of life is often the central decoration of the composition, around which other images are gathered. In general, the tree of life is never embroidered separately in household embroidery, it is surrounded by pairs of birds and animals, together with them it forms one complete image, expressing a certain meaning. Apart from the ones mentioned above, geometric and animal ornaments were also popular. The bird pattern is a fairly common motif in embroidery. Both clothes and household items were decorated with it. Among the animal ornaments of traditional Armenian embroidery, the snake-dragon motif has a unique place, which is presented in all its pictorial (real form and stylized) and semantic (good and evil) richness. In embroidery, the snake pattern is not one of the widespread motifs, it is not found as the main, central image, as in carpets and rugs, but as a complementary element that completes the ornament, it has many manifestations. The human figure is the least common ornament. The figures of people sometimes found in traditional household embroidery designs, which are predominantly female, are highly stylized and geometric. Carpet embroideries are a remarkable part of Armenian needlework art. In the 17th and 18th centuries, exceptional and remarkable samples of embroidered carpets are preserved in many museums of the world, the decoration system of which almost completely repeats or shows great commonalities with dragon carpets and other carpets of the same period. See also [ edit ] List of fabric names (/wiki/List_of_fabric_names) References [ edit ] Kasparian, Alice Odian (1983). Armenian Needlelace and Embroidery: A Preservation of Some of History's Oldest and Finest Needlework . Epm Pubns Inc. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-914440-65-9 . Dickson, Elena (2000). Knotted Lace in the Eastern Mediterranean Tradition . Sterling Publishing. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 1-86351-121-0 . Specific ^ (#cite_ref-1) Chrisman-Campbell, Kimberly (2021-08-01). "An Unbroken Thread | The Story of Armenian Lace" (https://www.ornamentmagazine.org/articles/armenian-lace-volume-441) . Ornament Magazine . Retrieved 2023-12-13 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Asatryan, Maria (2020). Armenia Travel Guide 2020 . Oppian. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9789518771770 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Tashjian, Nouvart (1982). Armenian Lace . Berkeley, CA: Lacis Publications. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780916896201 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Tashjian, Nouvart (1982). Armenian Lace . Berkeley, CA: Lacis Publications. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780916896201 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Davtyan, S. (1972). Հայկական ասեղնագործություն [ Armenian Embroiddery ] (in Armenian). Yerevan. p. 18. {{ cite book (/wiki/Template:Cite_book) }} : CS1 maint: location missing publisher ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_location_missing_publisher) ) ^ (#cite_ref-6) Mar, Nikoghayos (1934). Ani (in Armenian). Moscow. {{ cite book (/wiki/Template:Cite_book) }} : CS1 maint: location missing publisher ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_location_missing_publisher) ) ^ (#cite_ref-7) Davtyan, S. (1972). Armenian Embroidery (in Armenian). Yerevan. p. 26. {{ cite book (/wiki/Template:Cite_book) }} : CS1 maint: location missing publisher ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_location_missing_publisher) ) ^ (#cite_ref-8) Chizmehyan, Manuk (1955). Kharberd and its sons . Frezno. {{ cite book (/wiki/Template:Cite_book) }} : CS1 maint: location missing publisher ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_location_missing_publisher) ) ^ (#cite_ref-9) Архимандрит, Гарегин 2 (1916). Образчики армянских церковных вышивок . {{ cite book (/wiki/Template:Cite_book) }} : CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_numeric_names:_authors_list) ) ^ (#cite_ref-10) Davtyan, S. (1972). Armenian Embroidery (in Armenian). Yerevan. p. 35. {{ cite book (/wiki/Template:Cite_book) }} : CS1 maint: location missing publisher ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_location_missing_publisher) ) ^ (#cite_ref-11) Davtyan, S. (1972). Armenian Embroidery (in Armenian). Yerevan. p. 50. {{ cite book (/wiki/Template:Cite_book) }} : CS1 maint: location missing publisher ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_location_missing_publisher) ) v t e Lace (/wiki/Lace) types Needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Punto in Aria (/wiki/Punto_in_Aria) Point de Venise (/wiki/Point_de_Venise) Point de France (/wiki/Point_de_France) Alençon (/wiki/Alen%C3%A7on_lace) Aemilia Ars (/w/index.php?title=Aemilia_Ars&action=edit&redlink=1) Argentan (/wiki/Argentan_lace) Argentella (/wiki/Argentella) Armenian Burano (https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merletto%20di%20Burano) Halas lace (/wiki/Halas_lace) Hedebo embroidery (/wiki/Hedebo_embroidery) Hollie Point (/wiki/Hollie_Point) Nallıhan (/wiki/Nall%C4%B1han_silk_needlelace) Point de Gaze (/wiki/Point_de_Gaze) Kenmare Lace (/wiki/Kenmare_lace) Ñandutí (/wiki/%C3%91andut%C3%AD) Oya (/wiki/Oya_(lace)) Pag (/wiki/Pag_lace) Puncetto Valsesiano (/w/index.php?title=Puncetto_Valsesiano&action=edit&redlink=1) Tenerife 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(/wiki/Flanders_lace) Paris (/wiki/Paris_lace) Valenciennes (/wiki/Valenciennes_lace) Antwerp (/wiki/Antwerp_lace) Mechlin (/wiki/Mechlin_lace) Ipswich (/wiki/Ipswich_lace) 's Gravenmoer (/w/index.php?title=%27s_Gravenmoer_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Mundillo (/wiki/Mundillo) Guipure (/wiki/Guipure) Greek (/wiki/Greek_lace) Genoese (/wiki/Genoese_lace) Bedfordshire (/wiki/Bedfordshire_lace) Cluny (/wiki/Cluny_lace) Dentelle du Puy (https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dentelle_du_Puy) Liptov (/wiki/Liptov) Maltese (/wiki/Maltese_lace) Yak lace (/wiki/Yak_lace) Part laces (/wiki/Part_lace) Honiton (/wiki/Honiton_lace) Bruges (/wiki/Bruges_lace) Brussels (/wiki/Brussels_lace) Rosaline (/wiki/Rosaline_lace) Point d'Angleterre (/wiki/Brussels_lace#Point_d'Angleterre) Tape (/wiki/Bobbin_tape_lace) Cantù (/w/index.php?title=Cant%C3%B9_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Milanese (/wiki/Milanese_bobbin_lace) Hinojosa (/w/index.php?title=Hinojosa_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Russian (/wiki/Russian_lace) Idrija (/wiki/Idrija_lace) Schneeberg (/wiki/Schneeberg_lace) Peasant (/w/index.php?title=Peasant_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Tape lace (/wiki/Tape_lace) Mezzopunto (/w/index.php?title=Mezzopunto&action=edit&redlink=1) Princess (/wiki/Princess_lace) Renaissance (/wiki/Renaissance_lace) Battenberg (/wiki/Battenberg_lace) Romanian point (/wiki/Romanian_point_lace) Branscombe (/wiki/Branscombe_lace) Crocheted lace (/wiki/Crocheted_lace) Broomstick lace (/wiki/Broomstick_lace) Irish crochet (/wiki/Irish_lace) Hairpin (/wiki/Hairpin_lace) Filet crochet (/wiki/Filet_crochet) Orvieto lace (/w/index.php?title=Orvieto_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Machine (/wiki/Lace_machine) -made lace Bobbinet (/wiki/Bobbinet) Leavers (/wiki/Leavers_machine) Pusher (/wiki/Pusher_machine) Barmen (/wiki/Barmen_lace_machine) Curtain Machine (/wiki/Nottingham_lace_curtain_machine) Chemical (/wiki/Chemical_lace) Raschel (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Stocking Frame (/wiki/Stocking_frame) Warp Knit (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Other 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American fashion designer (1962–2018) Kate Spade Spade in 1999 Born Katherine Noel Brosnahan ( 1962-12-24 ) December 24, 1962 Kansas City, Missouri (/wiki/Kansas_City,_Missouri) , U.S. Died June 5, 2018 (2018-06-05) (aged 55) New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) , U.S. Cause of death Suicide (/wiki/Suicide) Resting place Calvary Cemetery, Kansas City, Missouri, U.S. Other names Kate Valentine Education University of Kansas (/wiki/University_of_Kansas) Arizona State University (/wiki/Arizona_State_University) Occupation(s) Fashion designer, businesswoman Years active 1985–2018 Known for Kate Spade New York (/wiki/Kate_Spade_New_York) Frances Valentine Spouse Andy Spade (/wiki/Andy_Spade) ​ ( m. 1994) ​ Children 1 Relatives Rachel Brosnahan (/wiki/Rachel_Brosnahan) (niece) David Spade (/wiki/David_Spade) (brother-in-law) Katherine Noel Valentine Brosnahan Spade (born Katherine Noel Brosnahan ; December 24, 1962 – June 5, 2018) [1] (#cite_note-WSJ2016-1) [2] (#cite_note-2) was an American fashion designer and entrepreneur. She was the co-founder and co-owner of the designer brand Kate Spade New York (/wiki/Kate_Spade_New_York) . Early life [ edit ] Spade was born Katherine Noel Brosnahan in Kansas City, Missouri (/wiki/Kansas_City,_Missouri) , the daughter of June (née Mullen) and Francis (Frank) Brosnahan, [3] (#cite_note-IrishCentral-3) who owned a road-construction company. [4] (#cite_note-NYT_1999_article-4) She was of mostly Irish descent. [3] (#cite_note-IrishCentral-3) After graduating from St. Teresa's Academy (/wiki/St._Teresa%27s_Academy) , an all-female Catholic high school, Spade attended the University of Kansas (/wiki/University_of_Kansas) . She later transferred to Arizona State University (/wiki/Arizona_State_University) . She joined the Kappa Kappa Gamma (/wiki/Kappa_Kappa_Gamma) sorority and graduated with a journalism degree in 1985, thinking she would go into television production. While in college, she worked in sales at Carter's Men Shop, a men's clothing store in Phoenix (/wiki/Phoenix,_Arizona) ; her co-worker was Andy Spade (/wiki/Andy_Spade) , who later became her husband and business partner. [5] (#cite_note-5) [4] (#cite_note-NYT_1999_article-4) [6] (#cite_note-6) Career [ edit ] Mademoiselle [ edit ] By 1986, the couple had moved to Manhattan (/wiki/Manhattan) . Kate worked in the accessories department at Mademoiselle (/wiki/Mademoiselle_(magazine)) . She left Mademoiselle in 1991, achieving the rank of senior fashion editor (/wiki/Fashion_editor) and head of accessories. [7] (#cite_note-NYT_obituary-7) While working for Mademoiselle , she had noticed that the market lacked stylish, affordable, and sensible handbags, so decided to create her own. Kate Spade New York [ edit ] Kate Spade logo A Kate Spade handbag Kate and Andy founded Kate Spade New York in January 1993. [8] (#cite_note-biographysite-8) Spade was initially undecided on the brand's name, because Andy and she had not yet married, and "Kate Brosnahan" seemed a cumbersome name for a fashion label. She considered a number of names, but agreed when Andy suggested "Kate Spade", as she would take the name Spade after their marriage. Spade made six prototypes with Scotch tape (/wiki/Scotch_tape) and paper, and found a manufacturer in East New York (/wiki/East_New_York,_Brooklyn) willing to work with a startup to produce the bags. To finance the company, Andy, who had worked as a copywriter (/wiki/Copywriting) , withdrew his 401(k) (/wiki/401(k)) pension plan and sometimes paid employees with personal checks. The couple spent their shipping season living at friends' apartments, since their own was filled with boxed handbags. [4] (#cite_note-NYT_1999_article-4) After an early show at the Javits Center (/wiki/Javits_Center) at which the department-store chain Barneys (/wiki/Barneys_New_York) ordered a few bags, Spade decided to put the bag's labels on the outside, a change that took her all night to alter, but established the brand. [4] (#cite_note-NYT_1999_article-4) The bags, priced in the US$150 to $450 range, quickly became popular, particularly in New York. That was "a real shift" in fashion, said Fern Mallis (/wiki/Fern_Mallis) , director of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (/wiki/Council_of_Fashion_Designers_of_America) during the 1990s. "Everybody had Kate Spade bags. You could afford them, and happily buy more than one." [9] (#cite_note-NYT_AP_story-9) Young American women at the time also liked the bags' sophisticated look. One woman recalled that the Kate Spade bags looked "mature, without being too adult for a teenager," unlike higher-priced brands such as Burberry (/wiki/Burberry) or Louis Vuitton (/wiki/Louis_Vuitton) . "At the turn of the last century, her bag came to encapsulate a decidedly Manhattan moment in time", [10] (#cite_note-Sarah_Maslin_Nir_NYT_story-10) a moment when Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour (/wiki/Anna_Wintour) recalled that it was impossible to walk a block (/wiki/City_block) in the city without seeing one. [7] (#cite_note-NYT_obituary-7) A Kate Spade New York (/wiki/Kate_Spade_New_York) store in the Natick Mall (/wiki/Natick_Mall) , Massachusetts, in 2008 The company exclusively sold handbags at first, but soon expanded to clothing, jewelry, shoes, stationery, eyewear, baby items, fragrances, and gifts. In 1996, the Kate Spade brand opened its first boutique, a 400-square-foot (37 m 2 ) shop in Manhattan's trendy SoHo (/wiki/SoHo,_Manhattan) district, and moved its headquarters into a 10,000-square-foot (930 m 2 ) space on West 25th Street. [11] (#cite_note-11) Kate Spade also had two brand extensions called Kate Spade Saturday and Jack Spade. Kate Spade Saturday carried more casual handbags and apparel, but had heavy promotions and eventually closed in 2015. Jack Spade was a menswear line created by Kate Spade that offered men's leather goods and accessories, but that also closed in 2015. [12] (#cite_note-12) In 1999, Spade sold a 56% stake in her business to Neiman Marcus Group (/wiki/Neiman_Marcus) , helping to expand the brand worldwide. In 2004, "Kate Spade at Home" was launched as a home-collection brand. It featured bedding, bath items, china, wallpaper, table decor, flatware, and various decoration items. [13] (#cite_note-13) A Kate Spade store was opened in Aoyama, Tokyo (/wiki/Aoyama,_Minato,_Tokyo) , Japan. [14] (#cite_note-14) Spade also published three books on the subjects of etiquette, entertainment, and fashion: Manners , Occasions , and Style , respectively. [15] (#cite_note-15) By 2006, Spade had sold the remaining 44% of her shares to Neiman Marcus Group. [16] (#cite_note-WSJ2006-16) The group sold the label in 2006 to Liz Claiborne (/wiki/Liz_Claiborne) Inc., for $124 million; it was later renamed Fifth & Pacific. [16] (#cite_note-WSJ2006-16) [17] (#cite_note-17) The company was later purchased by Coach, Inc. (/wiki/Coach_New_York) in May 2017; both Coach and Kate Spade are now part of Tapestry, Inc. (/wiki/Tapestry,_Inc.) [18] (#cite_note-18) Frances Valentine [ edit ] After selling the remaining portion of her ownership in her brand, Spade took several years off to focus on her newborn daughter. In 2016, she launched a new collection of luxury footwear and handbags under the brand name Frances Valentine. [19] (#cite_note-19) The name stemmed from a hybrid of family names; Frances is a family name on Spade's paternal side. "Valentine" was Spade's maternal grandfather's middle name, having been born on Valentine's Day (/wiki/Valentine%27s_Day) . Spade later legally added Valentine to her full name. [20] (#cite_note-20) After Spade's death, the brand released a collection of designs called "Love Katy" in her memory. [21] (#cite_note-21) Spade had several years' worth of designs and inspirations for the brand, and the company plans to launch them. [22] (#cite_note-22) Personal life [ edit ] Spade married Andy Spade (/wiki/Andy_Spade) , the brother of actor/comedian David Spade (/wiki/David_Spade) , in 1994. While not legally separated, the couple had begun living apart a few months before her death. [23] (#cite_note-VarietyStatement-23) The couple's only child, a daughter, was born in 2005. [24] (#cite_note-24) Actress Rachel Brosnahan (/wiki/Rachel_Brosnahan) is Spade's niece. [25] (#cite_note-25) On April 11, 2002, Spade appeared as herself in an episode of Just Shoot Me! (/wiki/Just_Shoot_Me!) , “Blush Gets Some Therapy”, season six episode nineteen, alongside her brother-in-law David Spade (/wiki/David_Spade) . Death [ edit ] A housekeeper found Spade dead in her Manhattan apartment on June 5, 2018. Her death was ruled a suicide by hanging with a red scarf. [26] (#cite_note-murder-26) Police reported that she had left a note, which was addressed to her daughter. [27] (#cite_note-27) The day after his wife's death, Andy Spade released a statement: Kate suffered from depression and anxiety (/wiki/Anxiety) for many years. She was actively seeking help and working closely with doctors to treat her disease, one that takes far too many lives. We were in touch with her the night before and she sounded happy. There was no indication and no warning that she would do this. It was a complete shock. And it clearly wasn't her. There were personal demons she was battling. [23] (#cite_note-VarietyStatement-23) After Spade's death, her sister, Reta Saffo, told the media her suicide was "not unexpected". She believed Spade had suffered from bipolar disorder (/wiki/Bipolar_disorder) throughout her life, aggravated by the fame and wealth she achieved in her 30s. On several occasions, she had tried to convince her sister to get treatment, but Spade feared the stigma of mental illness would hurt her brand. Saffo suspected her sister had been contemplating suicide since actor Robin Williams (/wiki/Robin_Williams) hung himself in 2014, media coverage of which, she claimed, captivated Spade. The last time the two had talked, she said, Spade had asked her to come to her funeral, even though she knew Saffo did not like going to those events. She insisted to Saffo that she was not considering suicide. [28] (#cite_note-Kansas_City_Star_Reta_Saffo_story-28) The rest of the family, who had not been close to Saffo for a decade, disputed this characterization. A source close to them told NBC News (/wiki/NBC_News) that they were "disgusted and saddened" at Saffo's remarks. "Her statement paints a picture of someone who did not know [Kate] at all." [29] (#cite_note-NBC_News_family_statement_story-29) Spade's older brother Earl Brosnahan did allow that Spade had been the only one in the family who still spoke to Saffo, but only "sporadically". He nevertheless called Saffo's accounts "grossly inaccurate". Elyce Arons, one of her business partners, also recalled to The New York Times that she had on several occasions heard Spade say that she "would never do that" when news broke of a celebrity's suicide. [30] (#cite_note-NYT_no_indication_story-30) Following her death, the flagship Kate Spade New York store in Manhattan (and soon other stores nationwide) displayed a sign in its front window reading: [31] (#cite_note-NYT_tributes_story-31) [32] (#cite_note-32) Kate Spade, the visionary founder of our brand, has passed. Our thoughts are with her family at this incredibly heartbreaking time. We honor all the beauty she brought into this world. Awards [ edit ] In 1996, the Council of Fashion Designers of America (/wiki/Council_of_Fashion_Designers_of_America) awarded Spade "America's New Fashion Talent in Accessories" for her classic designs. In 1998, the organization again honored her for "Best Accessory Designer of the Year". [33] (#cite_note-GundryKickul-33) Her home collection won her three design awards in 2004, including, House Beautiful (/wiki/House_Beautiful) 's "Giants of Design Award for Tastemaker", Bon Appétit (/wiki/Bon_App%C3%A9tit) ' s "American Food and Entertaining Award for Designer of the Year", and Elle Decor (/wiki/Hachette_Filipacchi_Media_U.S.) ' s "Elle Decor International Design Award for Bedding". [33] (#cite_note-GundryKickul-33) In 2017, she was inducted into the Entrepreneur Hall of Fame at the Henry W. Bloch School of Management (/wiki/Henry_W._Bloch_School_of_Management) at the University of Missouri, Kansas City (/wiki/University_of_Missouri%E2%80%93Kansas_City) . [34] (#cite_note-34) Also in 2017, she was named one of the Most Creative People in Business by Fast Company (/wiki/Fast_Company_(magazine)) . [35] (#cite_note-35) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-WSJ2016_1-0) Kapner, Suzanne (August 23, 2016). "When Is Kate Spade Not Kate Spade? When She's Frances Valentine" (https://www.wsj.com/articles/when-is-kate-spade-not-kate-spade-when-shes-frances-valentine-1471971817) . The Wall Street Journal (/wiki/The_Wall_Street_Journal) . Retrieved December 24, 2016 . one of her first acts was to find a new name. Now, she's Katherine Noel Frances Valentine Brosnahan. In stores, she's Frances Valentine. ^ (#cite_ref-2) * "Kate & Andy Spade Interview on How I Built This by Guy Raz" (https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510313/how-i-built-this) . NPR. Ana Colon (January 10, 2016). "Designer Kate Spade Name Change Frances Valentine" (https://www.refinery29.com/2016/02/102342/kate-valentine-name-change) . Refinery29.com . Retrieved June 22, 2017 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Irish American fashion designer Kate Spade dead of apparent suicide" (https://www.irishcentral.com/news/kate-spade-irish) . Irish Central . June 5, 2018 . Retrieved June 5, 2018 . Three of her great-grandparents were Irish emigrants. ^ Jump up to: a b c d Bumiller, Elisabeth (/wiki/Elisabeth_Bumiller) (March 12, 1999). "Public Lives; A Cautious Rise to a Top Name in Fashion" (https://www.nytimes.com/1999/03/12/nyregion/public-lives-a-cautious-rise-to-a-top-name-in-fashion.html) . The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . Retrieved June 6, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Spragins, Ellyn; Spade, Kate; Spade, Andy (September 1, 2013). "How We Bagged Our Careers" (https://money.cnn.com/magazines/fsb/fsb_archive/2003/09/01/350794/) . CNN Money . Retrieved June 7, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Fashion designer Kate Spade found dead in NYC" (https://www.bizjournals.com/kansascity/news/2018/06/05/fashion-designer-kate-spade-death.html) . Kansas City Business Journal . June 5, 2018 . Retrieved June 5, 2018 . ^ Jump up to: a b Bromwich, Jonah Engel; Friedman, Vanessa; Schneier, Matthew (June 5, 2018). "Kate Spade, American Designer Whose Bags Carried Women Into Adulthood, Is Dead at 55" (https://www.nytimes.com/2018/06/05/fashion/kate-spade-dead.html) . The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . Retrieved June 5, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-biographysite_8-0) "Kate Spade Biography" (https://www.biography.com/.amp/people/kate-spade-214145) . Biography.com (/wiki/Biography.com) . August 8, 2020 . Retrieved March 25, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-NYT_AP_story_9-0) "Spade Remembered as Vibrant and Colorful, Like Her Creations" (https://www.nytimes.com/aponline/2018/06/05/us/ap-us-obit-kate-spade.html) . The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . Associated Press. June 5, 2018 . Retrieved June 7, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-Sarah_Maslin_Nir_NYT_story_10-0) Nir, Sarah Maslin (/wiki/Sarah_Maslin_Nir) (June 5, 2018). "It Was the '90s. And Kate Spade's Bag Was It" (https://www.nytimes.com/2018/06/05/nyregion/kate-spade-bag.html) . The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . Retrieved June 7, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) Rubin, Rebecca (June 5, 2018). "Fashion Designer Kate Spade Found Dead in Apparent Suicide" (https://variety.com/2018/biz/news/kate-spade-dies-dead-suicide-55-1202830806/) . Variety . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "KATE SPADE SATURDAY AND JACK SPADE TO SHUT DOWN ALL STORES" (https://fashionista.com/2015/01/kate-spade-saturday-shuttering-stores) , Fashionista , January 29, 2015 ^ (#cite_ref-13) "Kate Spade Announces the Launch of kate spade Home; Company Signs Licensing Agreements with Scalamandre Lenox, And Springs" (https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20030609005113/en/Kate-Spade-Announces-Launch-kate-spade-Home) (Press release). ^ (#cite_ref-14) Abbey, Cherie D., ed. (2007). Biography today : profiles of people of interest to young readers . Detroit, Mich.: Omnigraphics. pp. 137–140 (https://archive.org/details/biographytodaypr0000unse_w3j2/page/137) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0780809703 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) * "Kate Spade" (http://www.simonandschuster.ca/authors/Kate-Spade/20261389) . Simon & Schuster . Retrieved June 7, 2018 . Zeigler, Beth (August 29, 2008). "Manners, Style and Occasions: Etiquette Books By Kate Spade" (https://www.apartmenttherapy.com/manners-style-and-occasions-et-61309) . Apartment Therapy . Retrieved June 7, 2018 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Neiman Marcus to Sell Kate Spade" (https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB116296058737816815) . The Wall Street Journal (/wiki/The_Wall_Street_Journal) . New York City. November 8, 2006 . Retrieved December 24, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) "Kate Spade Seems Totally Detached From Her Multimillion Dollar Namesake Brand" (http://www.businessinsider.com/kate-spade-brand-2013-2) . Business Insider . Retrieved June 9, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) Gensler, Lauren. "Coach Is Buying Kate Spade For $2.4 Billion" (https://forbes.com/sites/laurengensler/2017/05/08/coach-acquires-kate-spade-for-2-4-billion/#76e2e64336db) . Forbes . Retrieved May 19, 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) "Meet Kate & Andy Spade's New Venture, Frances Valentine" (https://www.fastcompany.com/3062096/meet-kate-andy-spades-new-venture-frances-valentine) . Fast Company . August 8, 2016 . Retrieved June 15, 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-20) Colon, Ana (February 2, 2016). "Designer Kate Spade Is So Committed To Her New Brand, She Changed Her Name" (https://www.refinery29.com/en-us/2016/02/102342/kate-valentine-name-change) . Refinery29 (/wiki/Refinery29) . Retrieved June 22, 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-21) Kanter, Sharon (January 30, 2019). "How Kate Spade's Family and Friends Are Honoring the Late Designer's Vision with the New Frances Valentine Collection" (https://people.com/style/kate-spade-frances-valentine-rachel-brosnahan-spring-collection/) . People (/wiki/People_(magazine)) . Retrieved March 25, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-22) Taylor, Meggen (November 9, 2018). "Kate Spade's Eye For Design Lives On With Frances Valentine" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/meggentaylor/2018/11/09/kate-spades-eye-for-design-lives-on-with-frances-valentine/) . Forbes (/wiki/Forbes) . Retrieved March 25, 2021 . ^ Jump up to: a b Carras, Christi (June 6, 2018). "Kate Spade's Husband Issues Statement: She 'Suffered From Depression and Anxiety' (https://variety.com/2018/biz/news/kate-spade-husband-death-statement-1202834789/) " (https://variety.com/2018/biz/news/kate-spade-husband-death-statement-1202834789/) . Variety (/wiki/Variety_(magazine)) . Retrieved March 25, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-24) Williams, Janice (June 5, 2018). "Who Is Frances Beatrix? Kate Spade's Last Fashion Venture Was Named After Designer's Daughter" (http://www.newsweek.com/kate-spade-frances-valentine-daughter-959850) . Newsweek (/wiki/Newsweek) . Retrieved March 25, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-25) Schmidt, Ingrid (October 13, 2015). "Rachel Brosnahan of 'Manhattan' undertakes her own special fashion project" (http://www.latimes.com/fashion/la-ig-rachel-brosnahan-20151011-story.html) . Los Angeles Times (/wiki/Los_Angeles_Times) . Retrieved March 15, 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-murder_26-0) "Kate Spade died from "suicide", medical examiner says" (https://www.cbsnews.com/news/kate-spade-death-fashion-designer-suicide-new-york-city-chief-medical-examiner-today-2018-06-07/) . CBS News (/wiki/CBS_News) . June 7, 2018 . Retrieved March 25, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-27) Bromwich, Jonah Engel; Friedman, Vanessa; Schneier, Matthew (June 5, 2018). "Kate Spade, Whose Handbags Carried Women Into Adulthood, Is Dead at 55" (https://www.nytimes.com/2018/06/05/fashion/kate-spade-dead.html) . The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . Retrieved June 5, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-Kansas_City_Star_Reta_Saffo_story_28-0) "Kate Spade suffered years of mental illness, sister says. Suicide 'not unexpected' (http://www.kansascity.com/news/local/article212609069.html) " (http://www.kansascity.com/news/local/article212609069.html) . Kansas City Star (/wiki/Kansas_City_Star) . June 5, 2018 . Retrieved June 6, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-NBC_News_family_statement_story_29-0) " (https://www.nbcnewyork.com/news/local/Kate-Spade-Dead-Suicide-NYC-Sister-Statement-484664141.html) 'It Finally Took Its Toll': Kate Spade's Sister Alleges Longtime Struggle After Fashion Icon's Apparent NYC Suicide" (https://www.nbcnewyork.com/news/local/Kate-Spade-Dead-Suicide-NYC-Sister-Statement-484664141.html) . WNBC-TV (/wiki/WNBC-TV) . June 6, 2018 . Retrieved June 6, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-NYT_no_indication_story_30-0) Friedman, Vanessa (June 6, 2018). "Kate Spade's Death: 'There Was No Indication and No Warning,' Says Her Husband" (https://www.nytimes.com/2018/06/06/style/kate-spade-husband-andy-spade.html) . The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . Retrieved June 6, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-NYT_tributes_story_31-0) Freeman, Vanessa; Safronova, Valeriya (June 6, 2018). "Why Kate Spade Felt Like a Friend" (https://www.nytimes.com/2018/06/06/style/kate-spade-death-responses.html) . The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . Retrieved June 8, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-32) Feiden, Douglas (June 11, 2018). "Fear and Fashion: the Kate Spade story" (https://web.archive.org/web/20190711193012/http://www.ourtownny.com/local-news/20180611/fear-and-fashion-the-kate-spade-story) . Our Town . Archived from the original (http://www.ourtownny.com/local-news/20180611/fear-and-fashion-the-kate-spade-story) on July 11, 2019 . Retrieved December 13, 2020 . ^ Jump up to: a b Gundry, Lisa; Kickul, Jill (August 14, 2006). Entrepreneurship Strategy: Changing Patterns in New Venture Creation, Growth, and Reinvention . SAGE Publications. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781483316857 . ^ (#cite_ref-34) "Honoring Role Models" (http://info.umkc.edu/news/honoring-role-models/) (Press release). UMKC Today. March 6, 2017 . Retrieved March 11, 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-35) "Check out Kate Valentine, one of Fast Company's Most Creative People" (https://www.fastcompany.com/person/kate-valentine) . Fast Company (/wiki/Fast_Company_(magazine)) . January 22, 2017 . Retrieved June 22, 2017 . External links [ edit ] Frances Valentine (http://www.francesvalentine.com) Official website (http://katespade.com) Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) International FAST (http://id.worldcat.org/fast/1929220/) ISNI (https://isni.org/isni/0000000019383284) VIAF (https://viaf.org/viaf/50385238) WorldCat (https://id.oclc.org/worldcat/entity/E39PBJhCKrYCkDH7xjwbXmQDv3) National Germany (https://d-nb.info/gnd/132344815) United States (https://id.loc.gov/authorities/n2003110077) Japan (https://id.ndl.go.jp/auth/ndlna/01007148) Artists RKD Artists (https://rkd.nl/en/explore/artists/257512) ULAN (https://www.getty.edu/vow/ULANFullDisplay?find=&role=&nation=&subjectid=500280007) Other SNAC (https://snaccooperative.org/ark:/99166/w600171j) Portals (/wiki/Wikipedia:Contents/Portals) : Biography (/wiki/Portal:Biography) Fashion (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) United States (/wiki/Portal:United_States) New York City (/wiki/Portal:New_York_City) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6f54559974‐j86j4 Cached time: 20240719204640 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.664 seconds Real time usage: 0.817 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 3922/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 79665/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 3440/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 22/100 Expensive parser function count: 18/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 145524/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.428/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 10598074/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 751.785 1 -total 35.81% 269.196 1 Template:Reflist 25.76% 193.655 1 Template:Infobox_person 19.35% 145.451 17 Template:Cite_news 12.07% 90.719 1 Template:Authority_control 10.76% 80.927 1 Template:Short_description 9.07% 68.212 20 Template:Pluralize_from_text 7.66% 57.576 14 Template:Cite_web 6.82% 51.241 4 Template:Br_separated_entries 6.15% 46.229 2 Template:Pagetype Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:1979209-0!canonical and timestamp 20240719204640 and revision id 1235204433. 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Italy, 16th-17th century - Band with Figures of Women and Angels - 1920.1272 - Cleveland Museum of Art Filet lace is the general word used for all the different techniques of embroidery on knotted net (or in French broderie sur filet noué ). It is a hand made needlework (/wiki/Needlework) created by weaving (/wiki/Weaving) or embroidery (/wiki/Embroidery) using a long blunt needle and a thread on a ground of knotted net lace or filet work made of square or diagonal meshes of the same sizes or of different sizes. Lacis uses the same technique but is made on a ground of leno (a woven fabric) or small canvas (not a knotted lace). History [ edit ] Monsignor wearing a rochet (/wiki/Rochet) with filet lace Filet lace is a form of decorative netting and as such can be presumed to have derived at some point from the fishnet that a community would require for fishing, hunting, transporting, etc. and not necessarily because they were living close to the water. The Latin word filatorium is being used to describe filet lace then Jourdain (1904) quotes a reference to Exeter Cathedral possessing four pieces of filet lace in 1327. Latin word filatorium place for spinning, from filare to spin, from Latin filum a thread. (See filatory (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/filatory) .) Ingram (1922) states that there was a "cushion of net-work in St. Paul's Cathedral (/wiki/St._Paul%27s_Cathedral) so [ sic (/wiki/Sic) ] early as 1295." Such work, in the 14th century, was also described as "opus araneum". [1] (#cite_note-1) Filet-work is the result of knotting a fabric of diagonal or square meshes to create an open fabric called lace. The tool to make a knotted net lace is a shuttle-needle and a gauge stick for measure of the meshes. The book Renaissance Patterns for Lace, Embroidery and Needlepoint , an unabridged facsimile of the Singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts of 1587 by Federico de Vinciolo (/wiki/Federico_de_Vinciolo) contains approximately 50 beautiful and well designed patterns which are suitable for filet lace-embroidery on knotted net using the linen stitch. Technique [ edit ] Filet lace (linen stitch) being worked. As mentioned above, filet lace is created by doing embroidery stitches on a knotted net lace. The knotted ground lace can either be made by the lacemaker or as of 2003 purchased commercially in either handmade or machine-made varieties. Making the net by hand with a shuttle needle and a gauge involves anchoring the piece, using either a heavy cushion (which Carità (1909) recommends be made of lead but should be replaced by sand or a C clip), a chair or a stirrup around the worker's foot. Having a secure anchor against which to maintain tension, a square net is made starting from one corner and adding a new mesh on each row until the desired size is reached, then by decreasing. The individual meshes are formed on a gauge which helps ensure a uniform size and are created by knotting to a loop in the previous round: square mesh, diagonal mesh, circular, free form. By using a very fine thread and different sizes of gauge one can create a beautiful and delicate lace work. The knotted lace is then stretched on a frame and embroidery stitches are added using a long blunt needle and a thread. Patterns are designed on a grid with a mark for the meshes to be filled with the thread. A path (or direction) is traced on this pattern and then you follow this path with the needle on the ground lace. When a group of certain stitches are used, the technique takes a name: filet Guipure, filet Richelieu, filet Soutache, linen stitch (point de toile), darning stitch (point de reprise); and then, when a region recognizes it, it may become French filet, filet di Bosa, filet Italien, filet de Gruyère, Russian filet Guipure, etc. Many designs involve weaving the main design in linen stitch, indeed some designs consist entirely of linen stitch. This creates solid and open areas on the piece. A geometrical design or a sampler can use several different stitches, when a figural design will use very few stitches or only the linen stitch. Filet lace is often seen in a single color of thread, usually white or ecru (/wiki/Ecru_(color)) , but countries all over the world have used colored thread, precious metal threads, wool, feathers, etc. References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Filet lace (lace)" (http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/206829/filet-lace) . Encyclopædia Britannica . Encyclopædia Britannica Online . Retrieved February 11, 2013 . Quinault, Marie-Jo (2003). Filet Lace: Introduction to the Linen Stitch Victoria, BC: Trafford. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 1-4120-1549-9 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/1-4120-1549-9) is a book with patterns to learn the embroidery on a knotted net Carità (1909). Lacis . Sampson Low, Marston & Co. Th. de Dillmont (1923). Filet-Guipure . Mulhouse (Frankreich) Jourdain, M (1904). "Drawn Thread Work and Lacis". The Connoisseur . 10 : 235–237. Ingram, Caroline Patience (1922). " 'Point Compté' or Lace Netting". The Connoisseur . 62 : 92–94. Vinciolo, Federico (1587). Les Singuliers et Nouveaux Pourtaicts External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Filet lace (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Filet_lace) . "Filet Lace by the Sea -- Supplies for Embroidery on a Filet Lace Net: Instruction, Patterns, Filet Nets, etc" (http://www.filetlace.net) . Retrieved February 12, 2007 . Quinault, Marie-Jo (2003). Instruction Book to Learn -- "Filet Lace, Introduction to the Linen Stitch" -- Item No. FL01 . Trafford. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 141201549-9 . Retrieved August 8, 2014 . "Starting Kit -- Complete kit with all the material, supply & accessories you need to learn and produce completely finished & functional pieces you'll be proud to show -- Item No. FL104" (http://www.filetlace.net) . Retrieved August 8, 2014 . Filet Lace – Virtual Museum of Textile Arts (http://www.museocaprai.it/en/tecnica_Filet.htm) "Filet-Guipure (Part 1)" (http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/books/dmc_guip_1.pdf) (PDF) . Filet-Guipure [Filet Lace], Th de Dillmont, 1923 . Retrieved June 2, 2005 . "Filet-Guipure (Part 2)" (http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/books/dmc_guip_2.pdf) (PDF) . Filet-Guipure [Filet Lace], Th de Dillmont, 1923 . Retrieved June 2, 2005 . "Vinciolo" (http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/books/vfv_lace.pdf) (PDF) . I Singolari e Nuovi Disegni 1606 (1909 facsimile) . Retrieved June 2, 2005 . "Digital Archive of Documents Related to Lace" (http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/lace.html) . University of Arizona . Retrieved June 13, 2005 . v t e Lace (/wiki/Lace) types Needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) Filet lace Punto in Aria (/wiki/Punto_in_Aria) Point de Venise (/wiki/Point_de_Venise) Point de France (/wiki/Point_de_France) Alençon (/wiki/Alen%C3%A7on_lace) Aemilia Ars (/w/index.php?title=Aemilia_Ars&action=edit&redlink=1) Argentan (/wiki/Argentan_lace) Argentella (/wiki/Argentella) Armenian (/wiki/Armenian_needlelace) Burano (https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merletto%20di%20Burano) Halas lace (/wiki/Halas_lace) Hedebo embroidery (/wiki/Hedebo_embroidery) Hollie Point (/wiki/Hollie_Point) Nallıhan (/wiki/Nall%C4%B1han_silk_needlelace) Point de Gaze (/wiki/Point_de_Gaze) Kenmare Lace (/wiki/Kenmare_lace) Ñandutí (/wiki/%C3%91andut%C3%AD) Oya (/wiki/Oya_(lace)) Pag (/wiki/Pag_lace) Puncetto Valsesiano (/w/index.php?title=Puncetto_Valsesiano&action=edit&redlink=1) Tenerife (/wiki/Tenerife_lace) Youghal (/wiki/Youghal_lace) Embroidery (/wiki/Embroidery) Buratto (/wiki/Buratto) Filet lace Reticella (/wiki/Reticella) Limerick (/wiki/Limerick_lace) Needlerun net (/wiki/Needlerun_net) Tambour (/wiki/Tambour_lace) Cutwork (/wiki/Cutwork) Broderie anglaise (/wiki/Broderie_anglaise) Carrickmacross (/wiki/Carrickmacross_lace) Lefkara lace (/wiki/Lefkara_lace) Saba lace (/wiki/Saba_lace) Bobbin lace (/wiki/Bobbin_lace) Mesh grounds (/wiki/Mesh_grounded_bobbin_lace) Torchon (/wiki/Torchon_lace) Freehand (/wiki/Freehand_lace) Arras (/wiki/Arras_lace) Bayeux (/wiki/Bayeux_lace) Beeralu (/w/index.php?title=Beeralu&action=edit&redlink=1) Blonde (/wiki/Blonde_lace) Bucks point (/wiki/Bucks_point_lace) Chantilly (/wiki/Chantilly_lace) Chefoo (/w/index.php?title=Chefoo_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Cogne (/wiki/Cogne_lace) Tønder (/wiki/T%C3%B8nder_lace) Beveren (/wiki/Beveren_lace) Lille (/wiki/Lille_lace) Binche (/wiki/Binche_lace) Flanders (/wiki/Flanders_lace) Paris (/wiki/Paris_lace) Valenciennes (/wiki/Valenciennes_lace) Antwerp (/wiki/Antwerp_lace) Mechlin (/wiki/Mechlin_lace) Ipswich (/wiki/Ipswich_lace) 's Gravenmoer (/w/index.php?title=%27s_Gravenmoer_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Mundillo (/wiki/Mundillo) Guipure (/wiki/Guipure) Greek (/wiki/Greek_lace) Genoese (/wiki/Genoese_lace) Bedfordshire (/wiki/Bedfordshire_lace) Cluny (/wiki/Cluny_lace) Dentelle du Puy (https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dentelle_du_Puy) Liptov (/wiki/Liptov) Maltese (/wiki/Maltese_lace) Yak lace (/wiki/Yak_lace) Part laces (/wiki/Part_lace) Honiton (/wiki/Honiton_lace) Bruges (/wiki/Bruges_lace) Brussels (/wiki/Brussels_lace) Rosaline (/wiki/Rosaline_lace) Point d'Angleterre (/wiki/Brussels_lace#Point_d'Angleterre) Tape (/wiki/Bobbin_tape_lace) Cantù (/w/index.php?title=Cant%C3%B9_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Milanese (/wiki/Milanese_bobbin_lace) Hinojosa (/w/index.php?title=Hinojosa_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Russian (/wiki/Russian_lace) Idrija (/wiki/Idrija_lace) Schneeberg (/wiki/Schneeberg_lace) Peasant (/w/index.php?title=Peasant_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Tape lace (/wiki/Tape_lace) Mezzopunto (/w/index.php?title=Mezzopunto&action=edit&redlink=1) Princess (/wiki/Princess_lace) Renaissance (/wiki/Renaissance_lace) Battenberg (/wiki/Battenberg_lace) Romanian point (/wiki/Romanian_point_lace) Branscombe (/wiki/Branscombe_lace) Crocheted lace (/wiki/Crocheted_lace) Broomstick lace (/wiki/Broomstick_lace) Irish crochet (/wiki/Irish_lace) Hairpin (/wiki/Hairpin_lace) Filet crochet (/wiki/Filet_crochet) Orvieto lace (/w/index.php?title=Orvieto_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Machine (/wiki/Lace_machine) -made lace Bobbinet (/wiki/Bobbinet) Leavers (/wiki/Leavers_machine) Pusher (/wiki/Pusher_machine) Barmen (/wiki/Barmen_lace_machine) Curtain Machine (/wiki/Nottingham_lace_curtain_machine) Chemical (/wiki/Chemical_lace) Raschel (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Stocking Frame (/wiki/Stocking_frame) Warp Knit (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Other handmade laces Metal laces (/wiki/Metal_lace) Lace knitting (/wiki/Lace_knitting) Macramé (/wiki/Macram%C3%A9) Tatting (/wiki/Tatting) Punto a groppo (/wiki/Punto_a_groppo) Sprang (/wiki/Sprang) Liturgical lace (/wiki/Liturgical_lace) Media related to Lace (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Lace) at Wikimedia Commons Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Clothing portal (/wiki/Portal:Clothing) Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) : National Germany (https://d-nb.info/gnd/4154340-3) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.eqiad.main‐57d74c944b‐b88vq Cached time: 20240720165052 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.434 seconds Real time usage: 0.580 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1054/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 47725/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 719/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 14/100 Expensive parser function count: 5/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 43265/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.273/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 5016313/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 497.766 1 -total 27.52% 137.004 1 Template:Lace_types 27.44% 136.566 3 Template:Navbox 22.17% 110.346 1 Template:Reflist 18.86% 93.870 1 Template:Cite_encyclopedia 16.27% 80.968 1 Template:Commons_category 15.68% 78.041 1 Template:Sister_project 15.17% 75.493 1 Template:Side_box 9.08% 45.186 2 Template:If_then_show 8.94% 44.524 1 Template:Use_mdy_dates Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:1980846-0!canonical and timestamp 20240720165052 and revision id 1215981374. 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Type of bobbin lace in which motifs are connected by bars or plaits Example of Guipure lace with a Torchon (/wiki/Torchon_lace) edge Guipure lace is a type of bobbin lace (/wiki/Bobbin_lace) . It connects the motifs with bars or plaits rather than net or mesh. Guipure is a French word. It used to describe lace which has a gimp or thicker thread to outline the pattern, but this is no longer used. [1] (#cite_note-1) Genoese lace (/wiki/Genoese_lace) was a guipure lace. [2] (#cite_note-2) Genoese lacemakers went to Malta (/wiki/Malta) to found the style of Maltese lace (/wiki/Maltese_lace) . [3] (#cite_note-crafts-3) This later inspired the style of English lace known as Bedfordshire lace (/wiki/Bedfordshire_lace) . [4] (#cite_note-4) Another guipure lace is Cluny lace (/wiki/Cluny_lace) , which originated in France, [5] (#cite_note-5) but spread elsewhere, such as the English lacemaking areas. [6] (#cite_note-6) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Elizabeth Mincoffr (1981). Pillow Lace . Ruth Bean. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-903585-10-3 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Leader, Jean E. "Bobbin Lace: Genoese, Milanese, Cantú" (https://www.lacetypes.com/italy.html) . Retrieved 26 July 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-crafts_3-0) "Maltese Crafts" (https://vassallohistory.wordpress.com/maltese-crafts/) . VassaloMalta. 18 April 2013 . Retrieved 21 November 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Mrs. Bury Palliser (January 1984). History of Lace . Dover Publications, Inc. p. 392. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-486-24742-2 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Leader, Jean E. "Bobbin Lace: France" (https://www.lacetypes.com/franceB.html) . Retrieved 26 July 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Pat Earnshaw (1980). The Identification of Lace . Shire Publications. p. 107. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-85263-484-6 . 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1950s American college prank For other uses, see Panty Raid (horse) (/wiki/Panty_Raid_(horse)) and Panty Raid (album) (/wiki/Panty_Raid_(album)) . A panty raid was an American college prank (/wiki/Prank) of the 1940s, the 1950s, and the 1960s in which groups of male students would attempt to invade the living quarters of female students and steal their panties (/wiki/Panties) as trophies. The term dates back to February 1949. History [ edit ] Panty raids were the first college craze (/wiki/Fad) after World War II (/wiki/World_War_II) , following 1930s crazes of goldfish swallowing (/wiki/Goldfish_swallowing) , and of stuffing numbers of people into a phone booth (/wiki/Phonebooth_stuffing) . [1] (#cite_note-epidemic-1) The mock battles that ensued between male and female students echoed the riotous battles between freshmen and upperclassmen, which were an annual ritual at many colleges in the 20th century. [ citation needed ] The first documented incident occurred on February 25, 1949, at Augustana College (/wiki/Augustana_College_(Illinois)) , Rock Island, Illinois (/wiki/Rock_Island,_Illinois) . Around 125 men entered the Woman's Building; the first party entered through heating tunnels beneath the building. Once inside, they unlocked the door for the remaining raiders to enter, locked the house mother (/wiki/House_mother) in her apartment, and cut the light and phone lines. Although a few women reported missing undergarments, the goal was to cause commotion. The police arrived, and although no pranksters were charged, the news traveled, making headlines in the Chicago Tribune (/wiki/Chicago_Tribune) , Stars and Stripes (/wiki/Stars_and_Stripes_(newspaper)) , Time (/wiki/Time_(magazine)) magazine, and The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . [2] (#cite_note-2) [3] (#cite_note-3) [4] (#cite_note-4) The next incident was on March 21, 1952, when University of Michigan (/wiki/University_of_Michigan) students raided a dormitory, creating publicity that would spark panty raids across the nation. [5] (#cite_note-5) Penn State (/wiki/Penn_State) 's first raid involved 2,000 males marching on the women's dorms on April 8, 1952, cheered on by the women, who opened doors and windows and tossed out lingerie (/wiki/Lingerie) . [6] (#cite_note-6) A May 1952 article in the Technique (/wiki/Technique_(newspaper)) , Georgia Tech (/wiki/Georgia_Tech) 's student newspaper (/wiki/Student_newspaper) , reported that about 20 colleges had experienced panty raids, including several in the southeastern United States (/wiki/Southeastern_United_States) , such as Emory University (/wiki/Emory_University) , the University of Georgia (/wiki/University_of_Georgia) , the University of Miami (/wiki/University_of_Miami) , and the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill (/wiki/University_of_North_Carolina_at_Chapel_Hill) . [7] (#cite_note-7) By the end of the 1952 spring term the "epidemic" had spread to 52 campuses. [1] (#cite_note-epidemic-1) [8] (#cite_note-8) Students at Columbia College (/wiki/Columbia_College_(Missouri)) and Stephens College (/wiki/Stephens_College) fought off groups totaling two thousand men from the University of Missouri (/wiki/University_of_Missouri) . [9] (#cite_note-batterson-9) Raiding continued, such as the raid by Princeton University (/wiki/Princeton_University) men on Westminster Choir College (/wiki/Westminster_Choir_College) in spring 1953. [10] (#cite_note-10) The University of Nebraska (/wiki/University_of_Nebraska) was credited with the first panty raid of 1955, when hundreds raided the women's dorms, resulting in injuries and seven suspensions. [11] (#cite_note-11) The University of California, Berkeley (/wiki/University_of_California,_Berkeley) , had a 3,000-man panty raid in May 1956, which resulted in $10,000 in damage [12] (#cite_note-12) (equivalent to $112,069 in 2023). At the University of Michigan (/wiki/University_of_Michigan) , panty raids were associated with fall football pep rallies (/wiki/Pep_rally) in addition to being a spring ritual in the 1950s and early 1960s. [13] (#cite_note-13) [14] (#cite_note-14) The spring ritual continued into the 1960s. In 1961, three students were expelled from the University of Mississippi (/wiki/University_of_Mississippi) at Oxford (/wiki/Oxford,_Mississippi) , Mississippi (/wiki/Mississippi) for panty raids. [15] (#cite_note-15) In popular culture [ edit ] A panty raid was also depicted in the episode " Mid-Life Crustacean (/wiki/Mid-Life_Crustacean) " from the television show SpongeBob SquarePants (/wiki/SpongeBob_SquarePants) . Originally aired on Nickelodeon (/wiki/Nickelodeon) in 2003, the episode was discontinued by the network in 2018 and later made unavailable for streaming on Amazon Prime Video (/wiki/Amazon_Prime_Video) and Paramount+ (/wiki/Paramount%2B) , the latter of which acts as the service for Nickelodeon parent Paramount Global (/wiki/Paramount_Global) . While inappropriate content was given as the cause of its embargo, a specific scene was never identified. However, Petey Oneto of IGN (/wiki/IGN) surmises that the panty raid is the scene in question. [16] (#cite_note-16) A panty raid was also shown in the eleventh episode of the seventh season of " Married With Children (/wiki/Married_With_Children) ". The 1984 movie, " Revenge of the Nerds (/wiki/Revenge_of_the_Nerds) " depicted a panty raid. See also [ edit ] United States portal (/wiki/Portal:United_States) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Panty tree (/wiki/Panty_tree) Phonebooth stuffing (/wiki/Phonebooth_stuffing) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b "Epidemic" (https://web.archive.org/web/20070930153328/http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,857203,00.html) . Time (/wiki/Time_(magazine)) . June 2, 1952. Archived from the original (http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,857203,00.html) on September 30, 2007 . Retrieved September 25, 2007 . The newest and noisiest college craze—the pantie raid—reached the epidemic stage. Night after night from coast to coast last week college boys leaped and howled like Comanches under the windows of squealing coeds; by week's end, despite arrests, expulsions, editorial blasts, and the best efforts of police riot squads—a few of whom even used tear gas (/wiki/Tear_gas) —panty raiders had made night raids at 52 different colleges and universities. ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Americana" (https://web.archive.org/web/20090826161316/http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,853628,00.html) . Time magazine (/wiki/Time_magazine) . March 7, 1949. Archived from the original (http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,853628,00.html) on August 26, 2009 . Retrieved January 22, 2009 . Apparently stimulated by the approach of spring, 250 male students of Augustana College, Rock Island, Ill., raided a women's dormitory, tipped over beds and pushed screeching coeds into cold showers. The women seemed delighted. 'It was more fun than anything else,' said Senior Lois Taylor. 'In fact, we had an inkling they were coming.' ^ (#cite_ref-3) "Students Don Masks; Raid Co-Eds' Dorm" (https://pqasb.pqarchiver.com/chicagotribune/access/488721592.html?dids=488721592:488721592&FMT=CITE&FMTS=CITE:AI&date=Feb+26,+1949&author=&pub=Chicago+Tribune&desc=Students+Don+Masks;+Raid+Co-Eds'+Dorm&pqatl=google) . Chicago Tribune (/wiki/Chicago_Tribune) . February 26, 1949 . Retrieved July 28, 2009 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Swanson, Kai. "Help! Police! -- Isn't This Wonderful" (https://web.archive.org/web/20140810213351/http://www.augustana.edu/x19211.xml) . Augustana College. Archived from the original (http://www.augustana.edu/x19211.xml) on August 10, 2014. ^ (#cite_ref-5) Winling, LaDale. Student Housing, City Politics, and the University of Michigan (https://web.archive.org/web/20070614184654/http://www.urbanoasis.org/MUPThesis.pdf) , 2007. ^ (#cite_ref-6) Bezilla, Michael (1986). Penn State: an illustrated history . University Park, PA: The Pennsylvania State University Press. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0271003928 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Tarlin, Norman S. (May 27, 1952). "Ramblin' Recks want no part of "pantie raids." (https://smartech.gatech.edu/handle/1853/33640) " (https://smartech.gatech.edu/handle/1853/33640) . Technique (/wiki/Technique_(newspaper)) . Vol. XXXVII, no. 4. p. 2 . Retrieved April 28, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) Tobin, James (July 15, 2008). "Panty Raid, 1952" (https://web.archive.org/web/20121228234856/http://michigantoday.umich.edu/2008/07/raid.php) . Michigan Today . Archived from the original (http://michigantoday.umich.edu/2008/07/raid.php) on December 28, 2012 . Retrieved September 12, 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-batterson_9-0) Batterson, Paulina A. (2001). Columbia College: 150 Years of Courage, Commitment, and Change . Columbia, Missouri: University of Missouri Press. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-8262-1324-3 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "The Rites of Spring" (https://web.archive.org/web/20081222132518/http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,935349,00.html) . Time (/wiki/Time_(magazine)) . May 11, 1953. Archived from the original (http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,935349,00.html) on December 22, 2008 . Retrieved September 25, 2007 . "We want girls!" some of the boys yowled, "we want sex!" "We want panties!" screamed the rest. Not quite in the spirit of things, the girls threw shower curtains and pillows from the windows. ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Report Card" (https://web.archive.org/web/20070930115335/http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,861374,00.html) . Time (/wiki/Time_(magazine)) . April 25, 1955. Archived from the original (http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,861374,00.html) on September 30, 2007 . Retrieved September 25, 2007 . At the University of Nebraska, hundreds of spring-feverish men students poured out of their rooms one day last week, rushed into a coed dormitory and sorority houses. There they snatched up as many flimsy garments as they could, paraded about the campus in this year's first manifestation of that modern collegiate custom, the panty raid. Net result: seven students suspended. ^ (#cite_ref-12) Sann, Paul, Fads, Follies, and Delusions of the American People . Crown Publishers, 1967. p. 294. ^ (#cite_ref-13) "This Week in Daily History" (https://web.archive.org/web/20070930201409/http://media.www.michigandaily.com/media/storage/paper851/news/2002/11/06/News/This-Week.In.Daily.History-1413676.shtml) . Michigan Daily (/wiki/Michigan_Daily) . November 6, 2002. Archived from the original (http://media.www.michigandaily.com/media/storage/paper851/news/2002/11/06/News/This-Week.In.Daily.History-1413676.shtml) on September 30, 2007 . Retrieved August 3, 2007 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) "On campus" (https://web.archive.org/web/20070928015254/http://media.www.michigandaily.com/media/storage/paper851/news/2005/10/13/News/On.Campus-1432117.shtml) . Michigan Daily (/wiki/Michigan_Daily) . October 13, 2005. Archived from the original (http://media.www.michigandaily.com/media/storage/paper851/news/2005/10/13/News/On.Campus-1432117.shtml) on September 28, 2007 . Retrieved August 3, 2007 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) "Life on the Campus" (https://web.archive.org/web/20090113115525/http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,829308,00.html) . Time (/wiki/Time_(magazine)) . November 9, 1962. Archived from the original (http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,829308,00.html) on January 13, 2009 . Retrieved September 25, 2007 . But last week life at Ole Miss began turning really rough again. The university's white students had cause to think they could get away with violence. After all, eight students arrested during the bloody September riots were merely placed on campus probation (last year three students were expelled from Ole Miss for participating in a panty raid). University officials were mild and mellifluous in their rare admonitions against more student violence. ^ (#cite_ref-16) Petey Oneto (March 26, 2021). "SpongeBob SquarePants Episodes Pulled Over Storyline Concerns" (https://www.ign.com/articles/spongebob-squarepants-episodes-pulled-over-storyline-concerns) . IGN (/wiki/IGN) . Retrieved March 26, 2021 . 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Type of bobbin lace from Denmark Tønder lace Traditional Tønder lace motif Jordbær (Strawberries) Type Lace (/wiki/Lace) Material Linen (/wiki/Linen) or cotton (/wiki/Cotton) Production method Bobbin lace (/wiki/Bobbin_lace) Production process Craft production (/wiki/Craft_production) Place of origin Tønder (/wiki/T%C3%B8nder) , Denmark Introduced c. 1850 Tønder Knipling Tønder lace is a point-ground type of handmade bobbin lace (/wiki/Bobbin_lace) identified with the Tønder (/wiki/T%C3%B8nder) region of Denmark [1] (#cite_note-Dict-1) since about 1850, although lace of many types has been made there since as early as 1650. The term is also used more broadly, to refer to any bobbin lace made in Denmark. [1] (#cite_note-Dict-1) Tønder lace was traditionally made in fine linen (/wiki/Linen) thread, imported from the Netherlands (/wiki/Netherlands) . [2] (#cite_note-Hist-2) Since the disappearance of the very fine linen threads, it has commonly been made in cotton (/wiki/Cotton) . It is characterized by honeycomb (/wiki/Honeycomb_ground) fillings in motifs, square tallies (/w/index.php?title=Tally_(lace)&action=edit&redlink=1) in the ground (/wiki/Bobbin_lace_ground) , and the use of a gimp (/wiki/Gimp_(thread)#In_lace) , a heavy thread outlining the cloth-stitch (/w/index.php?title=Cloth-stitch&action=edit&redlink=1) motifs. It often had large holes in the motif, called "Copenhagen holes", which were an attempt on the part of the lacemakers to speed up production of the lace, as they strove to compete with the cheaper machine lace (/wiki/Lace_machine) . The designs used were similar to Mechlin lace (/wiki/Mechlin_lace) , with many flowers. [3] (#cite_note-EB-3) History [ edit ] Tønder lace was mainly made during the late 18th and early 19th centuries. [3] (#cite_note-EB-3) Production started in 1647 when a merchant brought lacemakers from Westphalia (/wiki/Westphalia) to Tønder to teach lacemaking to the general population. Christian IV (/wiki/Christian_IV) protected the manufacture of local lace, and didn't wear any foreign lace. [2] (#cite_note-Hist-2) In 1712 several lacemakers from Brabant (/wiki/Duchy_of_Brabant) accompanied the troops of King Frederick IV (/wiki/Frederick_IV_of_Denmark) on their return from the Netherlands, [1] (#cite_note-Dict-1) [2] (#cite_note-Hist-2) bringing new techniques. Tønder lace was a major industry, and most of the region's girls were employed in making it. Little boys, before they were strong enough to work in the fields, were also taught to make lace. In 1801 20,000 people in Tønder and the immediately surrounding area were employed making lace. [2] (#cite_note-Hist-2) When machine-made lace was introduced in the late 1800s, the handmade lace industry gradually ceased to be economically important to the region. It never died out entirely though, and is still made today, mostly by hobbyists. Reproductions of historical laces have been done by contemporary lacemakers, and interpretations of Tønder in new ways is ongoing. [4] (#cite_note-4) See also [ edit ] Hansigne Lorenzen (/wiki/Hansigne_Lorenzen) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c Earnshaw, Pat (February 1999). A Dictionary of Lace . Dover Publications. p. 41. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-486-40482-X . Retrieved 2008-05-16 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d Palliser, Bury (/wiki/Fanny_Bury_Palliser) (1865). History of Lace . Sampson Low, Son, & Marston. pp. 249 (https://archive.org/details/bub_gb_viEMAAAAYAAJ/page/n272) –250. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-486-24742-2 . Retrieved 2008-05-16 . Tonder lace. ^ Jump up to: a b "Tondern lace" (http://www.britannica.com/eb/article-9072855/Tondern-lace) . Encyclopædia Britannica (online ed.) . Retrieved 2008-05-16 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Donnelly, Bobbi; Giusiana, Michael (2023-04-02). A Study of Tønder Lace: Et Studie af Tønder Kniplinger Tønder-Spitze -- ein Studium . Independently published. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9798375874432 . {{ cite book (/wiki/Template:Cite_book) }} : CS1 maint: date and year ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_date_and_year) ) v t e Lace (/wiki/Lace) types Needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Punto in Aria (/wiki/Punto_in_Aria) Point de Venise (/wiki/Point_de_Venise) Point de France (/wiki/Point_de_France) Alençon (/wiki/Alen%C3%A7on_lace) Aemilia Ars (/w/index.php?title=Aemilia_Ars&action=edit&redlink=1) Argentan (/wiki/Argentan_lace) Argentella (/wiki/Argentella) Armenian (/wiki/Armenian_needlelace) Burano (https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merletto%20di%20Burano) Halas lace (/wiki/Halas_lace) Hedebo embroidery (/wiki/Hedebo_embroidery) Hollie Point (/wiki/Hollie_Point) Nallıhan (/wiki/Nall%C4%B1han_silk_needlelace) Point de Gaze (/wiki/Point_de_Gaze) Kenmare Lace (/wiki/Kenmare_lace) Ñandutí (/wiki/%C3%91andut%C3%AD) Oya (/wiki/Oya_(lace)) Pag (/wiki/Pag_lace) Puncetto Valsesiano (/w/index.php?title=Puncetto_Valsesiano&action=edit&redlink=1) Tenerife (/wiki/Tenerife_lace) Youghal (/wiki/Youghal_lace) Embroidery (/wiki/Embroidery) Buratto (/wiki/Buratto) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Reticella (/wiki/Reticella) Limerick (/wiki/Limerick_lace) Needlerun net (/wiki/Needlerun_net) Tambour (/wiki/Tambour_lace) Cutwork (/wiki/Cutwork) Broderie anglaise (/wiki/Broderie_anglaise) Carrickmacross (/wiki/Carrickmacross_lace) Lefkara lace (/wiki/Lefkara_lace) Saba lace (/wiki/Saba_lace) Bobbin lace (/wiki/Bobbin_lace) Mesh grounds (/wiki/Mesh_grounded_bobbin_lace) Torchon (/wiki/Torchon_lace) Freehand (/wiki/Freehand_lace) Arras (/wiki/Arras_lace) Bayeux (/wiki/Bayeux_lace) Beeralu (/w/index.php?title=Beeralu&action=edit&redlink=1) Blonde (/wiki/Blonde_lace) Bucks point (/wiki/Bucks_point_lace) Chantilly (/wiki/Chantilly_lace) Chefoo (/w/index.php?title=Chefoo_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Cogne (/wiki/Cogne_lace) Tønder Beveren (/wiki/Beveren_lace) Lille (/wiki/Lille_lace) Binche (/wiki/Binche_lace) Flanders (/wiki/Flanders_lace) Paris (/wiki/Paris_lace) Valenciennes (/wiki/Valenciennes_lace) Antwerp (/wiki/Antwerp_lace) Mechlin (/wiki/Mechlin_lace) Ipswich (/wiki/Ipswich_lace) 's Gravenmoer (/w/index.php?title=%27s_Gravenmoer_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Mundillo (/wiki/Mundillo) Guipure (/wiki/Guipure) Greek (/wiki/Greek_lace) Genoese (/wiki/Genoese_lace) Bedfordshire (/wiki/Bedfordshire_lace) Cluny (/wiki/Cluny_lace) Dentelle du Puy (https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dentelle_du_Puy) Liptov (/wiki/Liptov) Maltese (/wiki/Maltese_lace) Yak lace (/wiki/Yak_lace) Part laces (/wiki/Part_lace) Honiton (/wiki/Honiton_lace) Bruges (/wiki/Bruges_lace) Brussels (/wiki/Brussels_lace) Rosaline (/wiki/Rosaline_lace) Point d'Angleterre (/wiki/Brussels_lace#Point_d'Angleterre) Tape (/wiki/Bobbin_tape_lace) Cantù (/w/index.php?title=Cant%C3%B9_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Milanese (/wiki/Milanese_bobbin_lace) Hinojosa (/w/index.php?title=Hinojosa_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Russian (/wiki/Russian_lace) Idrija (/wiki/Idrija_lace) Schneeberg (/wiki/Schneeberg_lace) Peasant (/w/index.php?title=Peasant_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Tape lace (/wiki/Tape_lace) Mezzopunto (/w/index.php?title=Mezzopunto&action=edit&redlink=1) Princess (/wiki/Princess_lace) Renaissance (/wiki/Renaissance_lace) Battenberg (/wiki/Battenberg_lace) Romanian point (/wiki/Romanian_point_lace) Branscombe (/wiki/Branscombe_lace) Crocheted lace (/wiki/Crocheted_lace) Broomstick lace (/wiki/Broomstick_lace) Irish crochet (/wiki/Irish_lace) Hairpin (/wiki/Hairpin_lace) Filet crochet (/wiki/Filet_crochet) Orvieto lace (/w/index.php?title=Orvieto_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Machine (/wiki/Lace_machine) -made lace Bobbinet (/wiki/Bobbinet) Leavers (/wiki/Leavers_machine) Pusher (/wiki/Pusher_machine) Barmen (/wiki/Barmen_lace_machine) Curtain Machine (/wiki/Nottingham_lace_curtain_machine) Chemical (/wiki/Chemical_lace) Raschel (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Stocking Frame (/wiki/Stocking_frame) Warp Knit (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Other handmade laces Metal laces (/wiki/Metal_lace) Lace knitting (/wiki/Lace_knitting) Macramé (/wiki/Macram%C3%A9) Tatting (/wiki/Tatting) Punto a groppo (/wiki/Punto_a_groppo) Sprang (/wiki/Sprang) Liturgical lace (/wiki/Liturgical_lace) Media related to Lace (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Lace) at Wikimedia Commons Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Clothing portal (/wiki/Portal:Clothing) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6f54559974‐l4vzl Cached time: 20240719063626 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1] CPU time usage: 0.349 seconds Real time usage: 0.468 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 858/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 39735/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 861/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 14/100 Expensive parser function count: 3/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 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Punto in Aria Punto in aria band, Italy, 1601-50 Type Lace (/wiki/Lace) Production method Needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) Production process Craft production (/wiki/Craft_production) Place of origin Italy Punto in aria (literally “stitch in air”) is an early form of needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) devised in Italy (/wiki/Italy) . It is considered the first true lace (/wiki/Lace) because it was the first meant to be stitched alone, and not first onto a woven fabric. [1] (#cite_note-1) It is a closely related needle lace to reticella (/wiki/Reticella) , and their designs have many similarities when compared side by side. However, the punto in aria was an important improvement on the reticella method, and was a breakthrough in needle lace design. [2] (#cite_note-2) History [ edit ] The reticella (/wiki/Reticella) was the design that was the catalyst (/wiki/Catalyst) of the transition between fabrics made into lace by subtracting threads after needling, and lace made from scratch without fabric support. The reticella design required one to draw out threads after stitching onto fabric. As that design evolved, an increasing number of threads required withdrawing. Eventually, so many threads were drawn-out that the foundation became very flimsy and lace makers devised a new framework that did not require original foundation fabric. This came to be known as punto in aria . Design [ edit ] Punto in aria retains many of the characteristics of reticella but also is able to go beyond the geometric framework. The lace makers devised a linen and parchment base for their work. This base consisted of two or three layers of fabric with the parchment pattern on top. The layers were then basted together. The pattern was then laid over with a gimp which was basted down through the pattern and layers of support fabric. When the lace was finished, the basting stitches were cut between the layers thus leaving only the lace. References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Punto in aria" (https://www.britannica.com/art/punto-in-aria) . britannica.com . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Punto in Aria, Needle in the Air" (https://www.midorisnyder.com/handwork_and_the_craft/2018/08/punto-in-aria-needle-in-the-air.html) . midorisnyder.com . v t e Lace (/wiki/Lace) types Needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Punto in Aria Point de Venise (/wiki/Point_de_Venise) Point de France (/wiki/Point_de_France) Alençon (/wiki/Alen%C3%A7on_lace) Aemilia Ars (/w/index.php?title=Aemilia_Ars&action=edit&redlink=1) Argentan (/wiki/Argentan_lace) Argentella (/wiki/Argentella) Armenian (/wiki/Armenian_needlelace) Burano (https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merletto%20di%20Burano) Halas lace (/wiki/Halas_lace) Hedebo embroidery (/wiki/Hedebo_embroidery) Hollie Point (/wiki/Hollie_Point) Nallıhan (/wiki/Nall%C4%B1han_silk_needlelace) Point de Gaze (/wiki/Point_de_Gaze) Kenmare Lace (/wiki/Kenmare_lace) Ñandutí (/wiki/%C3%91andut%C3%AD) Oya (/wiki/Oya_(lace)) Pag (/wiki/Pag_lace) Puncetto Valsesiano (/w/index.php?title=Puncetto_Valsesiano&action=edit&redlink=1) Tenerife (/wiki/Tenerife_lace) Youghal (/wiki/Youghal_lace) Embroidery (/wiki/Embroidery) Buratto (/wiki/Buratto) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Reticella (/wiki/Reticella) Limerick (/wiki/Limerick_lace) Needlerun net (/wiki/Needlerun_net) Tambour (/wiki/Tambour_lace) Cutwork (/wiki/Cutwork) Broderie anglaise (/wiki/Broderie_anglaise) Carrickmacross (/wiki/Carrickmacross_lace) Lefkara lace (/wiki/Lefkara_lace) Saba lace (/wiki/Saba_lace) Bobbin lace (/wiki/Bobbin_lace) Mesh grounds (/wiki/Mesh_grounded_bobbin_lace) Torchon (/wiki/Torchon_lace) Freehand (/wiki/Freehand_lace) Arras (/wiki/Arras_lace) Bayeux (/wiki/Bayeux_lace) Beeralu (/w/index.php?title=Beeralu&action=edit&redlink=1) Blonde (/wiki/Blonde_lace) Bucks point (/wiki/Bucks_point_lace) Chantilly (/wiki/Chantilly_lace) Chefoo (/w/index.php?title=Chefoo_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Cogne (/wiki/Cogne_lace) Tønder (/wiki/T%C3%B8nder_lace) Beveren (/wiki/Beveren_lace) Lille (/wiki/Lille_lace) Binche (/wiki/Binche_lace) Flanders (/wiki/Flanders_lace) Paris (/wiki/Paris_lace) Valenciennes (/wiki/Valenciennes_lace) Antwerp (/wiki/Antwerp_lace) Mechlin (/wiki/Mechlin_lace) Ipswich (/wiki/Ipswich_lace) 's Gravenmoer (/w/index.php?title=%27s_Gravenmoer_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Mundillo (/wiki/Mundillo) Guipure (/wiki/Guipure) Greek (/wiki/Greek_lace) Genoese (/wiki/Genoese_lace) Bedfordshire (/wiki/Bedfordshire_lace) Cluny (/wiki/Cluny_lace) Dentelle du Puy (https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dentelle_du_Puy) Liptov (/wiki/Liptov) Maltese (/wiki/Maltese_lace) Yak lace (/wiki/Yak_lace) Part laces (/wiki/Part_lace) Honiton (/wiki/Honiton_lace) Bruges (/wiki/Bruges_lace) Brussels (/wiki/Brussels_lace) Rosaline (/wiki/Rosaline_lace) Point d'Angleterre (/wiki/Brussels_lace#Point_d'Angleterre) Tape (/wiki/Bobbin_tape_lace) Cantù (/w/index.php?title=Cant%C3%B9_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Milanese (/wiki/Milanese_bobbin_lace) Hinojosa (/w/index.php?title=Hinojosa_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Russian (/wiki/Russian_lace) Idrija (/wiki/Idrija_lace) Schneeberg (/wiki/Schneeberg_lace) Peasant (/w/index.php?title=Peasant_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Tape lace (/wiki/Tape_lace) Mezzopunto (/w/index.php?title=Mezzopunto&action=edit&redlink=1) Princess (/wiki/Princess_lace) Renaissance (/wiki/Renaissance_lace) Battenberg (/wiki/Battenberg_lace) Romanian point (/wiki/Romanian_point_lace) Branscombe (/wiki/Branscombe_lace) Crocheted lace (/wiki/Crocheted_lace) Broomstick lace (/wiki/Broomstick_lace) Irish crochet (/wiki/Irish_lace) Hairpin (/wiki/Hairpin_lace) Filet crochet (/wiki/Filet_crochet) Orvieto lace (/w/index.php?title=Orvieto_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Machine (/wiki/Lace_machine) -made lace Bobbinet (/wiki/Bobbinet) Leavers (/wiki/Leavers_machine) Pusher (/wiki/Pusher_machine) Barmen (/wiki/Barmen_lace_machine) Curtain Machine (/wiki/Nottingham_lace_curtain_machine) Chemical (/wiki/Chemical_lace) Raschel (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Stocking Frame (/wiki/Stocking_frame) Warp Knit (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Other handmade laces Metal laces (/wiki/Metal_lace) Lace knitting (/wiki/Lace_knitting) Macramé (/wiki/Macram%C3%A9) Tatting (/wiki/Tatting) Punto a groppo (/wiki/Punto_a_groppo) Sprang (/wiki/Sprang) Liturgical lace (/wiki/Liturgical_lace) Media related to Lace (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Lace) at Wikimedia Commons Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Clothing portal (/wiki/Portal:Clothing) This textile arts (/wiki/Textile_arts) article is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . 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Point de Venise Example of Venetian needle lace Type Lace (/wiki/Lace) Production method Needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) Production process Craft production (/wiki/Craft_production) Place of origin Venice (/wiki/Venice) , Italy Introduced 17th century Portrait of a young man of the Chigi family wearing a gros point de Venise collar, 17th century [1] (#cite_note-1) Text of some historically important and artistically interesting laces and embroidery Point de Venise is a Venetian (/wiki/Venice) needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) from the 17th century characterized by scrolling floral patterns with additional floral (/wiki/Flora) motifs worked in relief (in contrast with the geometric designs of the earlier reticella (/wiki/Reticella) ). [2] (#cite_note-2) By the mid-seventeenth century (/wiki/1650%E2%80%931700_in_Western_European_fashion) , it had overtaken Flemish lace (/wiki/Flemish_lace) as the most desirable type of lace in contemporary European fashion. [3] (#cite_note-3) Beginning in 1620 it became separated into Venetian raised lace (which became known by the French term " gros point de Venise ") and Venetian flat lace (in French " point plat de Venise "). The former (now known in English as " Venetian Gros Point " [4] (#cite_note-4) ) is characterized by having a raised pattern created through the use of cordonette worked over with buttonholing so that the curves achieved an elevated quality similar to a relief carving. [5] (#cite_note-5) Emily Leigh Lowes, historian of lace and needlework, described the history of this textile: [6] (#cite_note-6) It is absolutely certain that the laces known as Venetian Point originated in Italy. Pattern books still exist showing how early Reticella developed into this magnificent lace. In the National Library at the South Kensington Museum, maybe be seen the very patterns designed by Vinciolo, Vicellio, and Isabella Parasole. These publications actually came from Venice, and being reproduced in France, Germany, Belgium and England, quickly aroused immense enthusiasm, and lace-making spread far and wide, at first all other laces being mere imitations of the Venetian. Notes [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Montupet and Schoeller, Lace: The Elegant Web , p. 34 ^ (#cite_ref-2) Lefébure, Embroidery and Lace , p. 214 ^ (#cite_ref-3) St. Clair, Kassia (2018). The Golden Thread: How Fabric Changed History . London: John Murray. p. 147. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-4736-5903-2 . OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 1057250632 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1057250632) . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Leader, Jean E. "Lace Types: Venetian Needle Lace" (https://www.lacetypes.com/venice.html) . Retrieved 27 July 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Venetian needle lace" (https://www.britannica.com/art/Venetian-needle-lace) . Britannica. ^ (#cite_ref-6) Lowes, Emily Leigh (1908). Chats on Old Lace and Needlework . London: T. Fisher Unwin. p. 50. References [ edit ] Lefébure, Ernest, b. 1835: Embroidery and Lace: Their Manufacture and History from the Remotest Antiquity to the Present Day (London: H. Grevel and Co., 1888), ed. by Alan S. Cole Online Books page (http://onlinebooks.library.upenn.edu/webbin/book/lookupname?key=Lef%26eacute%3Bbure%2C%20Ernest%2C%20b.%201835) Montupet, Janine, and Ghislaine Schoeller: Lace: The Elegant Web , ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-8109-3553-8 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-8109-3553-8) Lowes, Emily Leigh: "Chats on Old Lace & Needlework". (London: T. Fisher Unwin, 1908). [1] (https://archive.org/details/cu31924052083924) Wikimedia Commons has media related to Gros point de Venise (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Gros_point_de_Venise) . v t e Lace (/wiki/Lace) types Needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Punto in Aria (/wiki/Punto_in_Aria) Point de Venise Point de France (/wiki/Point_de_France) Alençon (/wiki/Alen%C3%A7on_lace) Aemilia Ars (/w/index.php?title=Aemilia_Ars&action=edit&redlink=1) Argentan (/wiki/Argentan_lace) Argentella (/wiki/Argentella) Armenian (/wiki/Armenian_needlelace) Burano (https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merletto%20di%20Burano) Halas lace (/wiki/Halas_lace) Hedebo embroidery (/wiki/Hedebo_embroidery) Hollie Point (/wiki/Hollie_Point) Nallıhan (/wiki/Nall%C4%B1han_silk_needlelace) Point de Gaze (/wiki/Point_de_Gaze) Kenmare Lace (/wiki/Kenmare_lace) Ñandutí (/wiki/%C3%91andut%C3%AD) Oya (/wiki/Oya_(lace)) Pag (/wiki/Pag_lace) Puncetto Valsesiano (/w/index.php?title=Puncetto_Valsesiano&action=edit&redlink=1) Tenerife (/wiki/Tenerife_lace) Youghal (/wiki/Youghal_lace) Embroidery (/wiki/Embroidery) Buratto (/wiki/Buratto) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Reticella (/wiki/Reticella) Limerick (/wiki/Limerick_lace) Needlerun net (/wiki/Needlerun_net) Tambour (/wiki/Tambour_lace) Cutwork (/wiki/Cutwork) Broderie anglaise (/wiki/Broderie_anglaise) Carrickmacross (/wiki/Carrickmacross_lace) Lefkara lace (/wiki/Lefkara_lace) Saba lace (/wiki/Saba_lace) Bobbin lace (/wiki/Bobbin_lace) Mesh grounds (/wiki/Mesh_grounded_bobbin_lace) Torchon (/wiki/Torchon_lace) Freehand (/wiki/Freehand_lace) Arras (/wiki/Arras_lace) Bayeux (/wiki/Bayeux_lace) Beeralu (/w/index.php?title=Beeralu&action=edit&redlink=1) Blonde (/wiki/Blonde_lace) Bucks point (/wiki/Bucks_point_lace) Chantilly (/wiki/Chantilly_lace) Chefoo (/w/index.php?title=Chefoo_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Cogne (/wiki/Cogne_lace) Tønder (/wiki/T%C3%B8nder_lace) Beveren (/wiki/Beveren_lace) Lille (/wiki/Lille_lace) Binche (/wiki/Binche_lace) Flanders (/wiki/Flanders_lace) Paris (/wiki/Paris_lace) Valenciennes (/wiki/Valenciennes_lace) Antwerp (/wiki/Antwerp_lace) Mechlin (/wiki/Mechlin_lace) Ipswich (/wiki/Ipswich_lace) 's Gravenmoer (/w/index.php?title=%27s_Gravenmoer_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Mundillo (/wiki/Mundillo) Guipure (/wiki/Guipure) Greek (/wiki/Greek_lace) Genoese (/wiki/Genoese_lace) Bedfordshire (/wiki/Bedfordshire_lace) Cluny (/wiki/Cluny_lace) Dentelle du Puy (https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dentelle_du_Puy) Liptov (/wiki/Liptov) Maltese (/wiki/Maltese_lace) Yak lace (/wiki/Yak_lace) Part laces (/wiki/Part_lace) Honiton (/wiki/Honiton_lace) Bruges (/wiki/Bruges_lace) Brussels (/wiki/Brussels_lace) Rosaline (/wiki/Rosaline_lace) Point d'Angleterre (/wiki/Brussels_lace#Point_d'Angleterre) Tape (/wiki/Bobbin_tape_lace) Cantù (/w/index.php?title=Cant%C3%B9_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Milanese (/wiki/Milanese_bobbin_lace) Hinojosa (/w/index.php?title=Hinojosa_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Russian (/wiki/Russian_lace) Idrija (/wiki/Idrija_lace) Schneeberg (/wiki/Schneeberg_lace) Peasant (/w/index.php?title=Peasant_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Tape lace (/wiki/Tape_lace) Mezzopunto (/w/index.php?title=Mezzopunto&action=edit&redlink=1) Princess (/wiki/Princess_lace) Renaissance (/wiki/Renaissance_lace) Battenberg (/wiki/Battenberg_lace) Romanian point (/wiki/Romanian_point_lace) Branscombe (/wiki/Branscombe_lace) Crocheted lace (/wiki/Crocheted_lace) Broomstick lace (/wiki/Broomstick_lace) Irish crochet (/wiki/Irish_lace) Hairpin (/wiki/Hairpin_lace) Filet crochet (/wiki/Filet_crochet) Orvieto lace (/w/index.php?title=Orvieto_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Machine (/wiki/Lace_machine) -made lace Bobbinet (/wiki/Bobbinet) Leavers (/wiki/Leavers_machine) Pusher (/wiki/Pusher_machine) Barmen (/wiki/Barmen_lace_machine) Curtain Machine (/wiki/Nottingham_lace_curtain_machine) Chemical (/wiki/Chemical_lace) Raschel (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Stocking Frame (/wiki/Stocking_frame) Warp Knit (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Other handmade laces Metal laces (/wiki/Metal_lace) Lace knitting (/wiki/Lace_knitting) Macramé (/wiki/Macram%C3%A9) Tatting (/wiki/Tatting) Punto a groppo (/wiki/Punto_a_groppo) Sprang (/wiki/Sprang) Liturgical lace (/wiki/Liturgical_lace) Media related to Lace (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Lace) at Wikimedia Commons Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Clothing portal (/wiki/Portal:Clothing) This textile arts (/wiki/Textile_arts) article is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . 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Type of needle lace developed in the late 17th century Point de France A piece of point de France lace produced between 1700 and 1725 Type Lace (/wiki/Lace) Production method Needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) Production process Craft production (/wiki/Craft_production) Place of origin France Introduced 17th century Point de France is a type of needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) developed in the late 17th century. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) [2] (#cite_note-2) It is characterized by rich and symmetrical detail, and a reliance on symbols associated with King Louis XIV of France (/wiki/Louis_XIV_of_France) , such as suns, sunflowers (/wiki/Sunflower) , fleurs-de-lys (/wiki/Fleur-de-lis) , and crowns. [3] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTESt._Clair2018148-3) History [ edit ] During the 1660s, King Louis XIV of France was spending extravagant sums on lace from the Republic of Venice (/wiki/Republic_of_Venice) , particularly a type known as point de Venise (/wiki/Point_de_Venise) , to the dismay of his finance minister, Jean-Baptiste Colbert (/wiki/Jean-Baptiste_Colbert) . [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) In order to redirect this spending into the French economy, Colbert set up a number of official royal lace factories, which were to produce a type of lace he named point de France . He worked with the French ambassador to Venice to tempt needle-workers from Venice (/wiki/Venice) , Italy (/wiki/Italy) , and Flanders (/wiki/Flanders) to emigrate to France, prompting the Doge of Venice (/wiki/Doge_of_Venice) to declare that defection to France by needle-workers was a treasonous act punishable by execution or assassination. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) [4] (#cite_note-:1-4) It is unclear whether this threat was ever carried out; regardless, enough Venetian needle-workers emigrated that the French quickly learned to produce high-quality lace. [4] (#cite_note-:1-4) [3] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTESt._Clair2018148-3) Point de France was popularized by the clergy, who used it for the ornaments of their rochets (/wiki/Rochet) , a type of clerical vestment. Most surviving pieces from the 16th and 17th centuries are now in museums. References [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Point de France (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Point_de_France) . Citations [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c St. Clair 2018 (#CITEREFSt._Clair2018) , pp. 146–147 ^ (#cite_ref-2) Leader, Jean E. "Lace Types: French Needle Lace" (https://www.lacetypes.com/franceN.html) . Retrieved 27 July 2022 . ^ Jump up to: a b St. Clair 2018 (#CITEREFSt._Clair2018) , p. 148. ^ Jump up to: a b Earnshaw, Pat (1999-01-01). A Dictionary of Lace . Courier Corporation. p. 130. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-486-40482-0 . Bibliography [ edit ] St. Clair, Kassia (2018). The Golden Thread: How Fabric Changed History . London: John Murray. pp. 146–147. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-4736-5903-2 . OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 1057250632 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1057250632) . v t e Lace (/wiki/Lace) types Needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Punto in Aria (/wiki/Punto_in_Aria) Point de Venise (/wiki/Point_de_Venise) Point de France Alençon (/wiki/Alen%C3%A7on_lace) Aemilia Ars (/w/index.php?title=Aemilia_Ars&action=edit&redlink=1) Argentan (/wiki/Argentan_lace) Argentella (/wiki/Argentella) Armenian (/wiki/Armenian_needlelace) Burano (https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merletto%20di%20Burano) Halas lace (/wiki/Halas_lace) Hedebo embroidery (/wiki/Hedebo_embroidery) Hollie Point (/wiki/Hollie_Point) Nallıhan (/wiki/Nall%C4%B1han_silk_needlelace) Point de Gaze (/wiki/Point_de_Gaze) Kenmare Lace (/wiki/Kenmare_lace) Ñandutí (/wiki/%C3%91andut%C3%AD) Oya (/wiki/Oya_(lace)) Pag (/wiki/Pag_lace) Puncetto Valsesiano (/w/index.php?title=Puncetto_Valsesiano&action=edit&redlink=1) Tenerife (/wiki/Tenerife_lace) Youghal (/wiki/Youghal_lace) Embroidery (/wiki/Embroidery) Buratto (/wiki/Buratto) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Reticella (/wiki/Reticella) Limerick (/wiki/Limerick_lace) Needlerun net (/wiki/Needlerun_net) Tambour (/wiki/Tambour_lace) Cutwork (/wiki/Cutwork) Broderie anglaise (/wiki/Broderie_anglaise) Carrickmacross (/wiki/Carrickmacross_lace) Lefkara lace (/wiki/Lefkara_lace) Saba lace (/wiki/Saba_lace) Bobbin lace (/wiki/Bobbin_lace) Mesh grounds (/wiki/Mesh_grounded_bobbin_lace) Torchon (/wiki/Torchon_lace) Freehand (/wiki/Freehand_lace) Arras (/wiki/Arras_lace) Bayeux (/wiki/Bayeux_lace) Beeralu (/w/index.php?title=Beeralu&action=edit&redlink=1) Blonde (/wiki/Blonde_lace) Bucks point (/wiki/Bucks_point_lace) Chantilly (/wiki/Chantilly_lace) Chefoo (/w/index.php?title=Chefoo_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Cogne (/wiki/Cogne_lace) Tønder (/wiki/T%C3%B8nder_lace) Beveren (/wiki/Beveren_lace) Lille (/wiki/Lille_lace) Binche (/wiki/Binche_lace) Flanders (/wiki/Flanders_lace) Paris (/wiki/Paris_lace) Valenciennes (/wiki/Valenciennes_lace) Antwerp (/wiki/Antwerp_lace) Mechlin (/wiki/Mechlin_lace) Ipswich (/wiki/Ipswich_lace) 's Gravenmoer (/w/index.php?title=%27s_Gravenmoer_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Mundillo (/wiki/Mundillo) Guipure (/wiki/Guipure) Greek (/wiki/Greek_lace) Genoese (/wiki/Genoese_lace) Bedfordshire (/wiki/Bedfordshire_lace) Cluny (/wiki/Cluny_lace) Dentelle du Puy (https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dentelle_du_Puy) Liptov (/wiki/Liptov) Maltese (/wiki/Maltese_lace) Yak lace (/wiki/Yak_lace) Part laces (/wiki/Part_lace) Honiton (/wiki/Honiton_lace) Bruges (/wiki/Bruges_lace) Brussels (/wiki/Brussels_lace) Rosaline (/wiki/Rosaline_lace) Point d'Angleterre (/wiki/Brussels_lace#Point_d'Angleterre) Tape (/wiki/Bobbin_tape_lace) Cantù (/w/index.php?title=Cant%C3%B9_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Milanese (/wiki/Milanese_bobbin_lace) Hinojosa (/w/index.php?title=Hinojosa_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Russian (/wiki/Russian_lace) Idrija (/wiki/Idrija_lace) Schneeberg (/wiki/Schneeberg_lace) Peasant (/w/index.php?title=Peasant_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Tape lace (/wiki/Tape_lace) Mezzopunto (/w/index.php?title=Mezzopunto&action=edit&redlink=1) Princess (/wiki/Princess_lace) Renaissance (/wiki/Renaissance_lace) Battenberg (/wiki/Battenberg_lace) Romanian point (/wiki/Romanian_point_lace) Branscombe (/wiki/Branscombe_lace) Crocheted lace (/wiki/Crocheted_lace) Broomstick lace (/wiki/Broomstick_lace) Irish crochet (/wiki/Irish_lace) Hairpin (/wiki/Hairpin_lace) Filet crochet (/wiki/Filet_crochet) Orvieto lace (/w/index.php?title=Orvieto_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Machine (/wiki/Lace_machine) -made lace Bobbinet (/wiki/Bobbinet) Leavers (/wiki/Leavers_machine) Pusher (/wiki/Pusher_machine) Barmen (/wiki/Barmen_lace_machine) Curtain Machine (/wiki/Nottingham_lace_curtain_machine) Chemical (/wiki/Chemical_lace) Raschel (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Stocking Frame (/wiki/Stocking_frame) Warp Knit (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Other handmade laces Metal laces (/wiki/Metal_lace) Lace knitting (/wiki/Lace_knitting) Macramé (/wiki/Macram%C3%A9) Tatting (/wiki/Tatting) Punto a groppo (/wiki/Punto_a_groppo) Sprang (/wiki/Sprang) Liturgical lace (/wiki/Liturgical_lace) Media related to Lace (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Lace) at Wikimedia Commons Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Clothing portal (/wiki/Portal:Clothing) This textile arts (/wiki/Textile_arts) article is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . You can help Wikipedia by expanding it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Point_de_France&action=edit) . v t e NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.eqiad.main‐57d74c944b‐gql8v Cached time: 20240720184918 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.443 seconds Real time usage: 0.685 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1011/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 42383/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 1342/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 14/100 Expensive parser function count: 3/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 26976/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.292/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 6250876/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 480.768 1 -total 29.00% 139.402 3 Template:Navbox 28.86% 138.760 1 Template:Lace_types 24.75% 119.000 1 Template:Reflist 18.05% 86.780 1 Template:Cite_web 16.46% 79.111 1 Template:Short_description 9.70% 46.632 2 Template:Pagetype 8.97% 43.131 1 Template:Commons_category 8.77% 42.173 1 Template:Infobox_textile 8.47% 40.711 1 Template:Sister_project Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:2018775-0!canonical and timestamp 20240720184918 and revision id 1193838134. 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Alençon lace Alençon needle lace (1760-1775), MoMu-collection, Antwerp Type Lace (/wiki/Lace) Production method Needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) Production process Craft production (/wiki/Craft_production) Place of origin Alençon (/wiki/Alen%C3%A7on) , France Introduced 16th century Craftsmanship of Alençon needle lace-making UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage (/wiki/UNESCO_Intangible_Cultural_Heritage_Lists) Country France (/wiki/France) Reference 00438 (https://ich.unesco.org/en/RL/00438) Region Europe and North America (/wiki/Template:UNESCO_Representative_List_of_the_Intangible_Cultural_Heritage_of_Humanity/ENA) Inscription history Inscription 2010 (5th session) List (/wiki/Masterpieces_of_the_Oral_and_Intangible_Heritage_of_Humanity) Representative Marie Antoinette de Lorraine-Hasbourg and Her Children by Élisabeth-Louise Vigée-Le Brun (/wiki/%C3%89lisabeth-Louise_Vig%C3%A9e-Le_Brun) (1787) Versailles, Musée national du Château et des Trianons (/wiki/Palace_of_Versailles) The Queen is shown wearing a dress trimmed with Alençon lace. Alençon lace ( UK (/wiki/British_English) : / (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) ˈ æ l ən s ɒ n , (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) æ ˈ l ɒ̃ s ɒ̃ / (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) , [1] (#cite_note-1) US (/wiki/American_English) : / (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) ə ˈ l ɛ n s ɒ n , (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) - (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) s ən / (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) ) [2] (#cite_note-2) [3] (#cite_note-3) or point d'Alençon ( French: [pwɛ̃ (/wiki/Help:IPA/French) dalɑ̃sɔ̃] (/wiki/Help:IPA/French) ) is a needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) that originated in Alençon (/wiki/Alen%C3%A7on) , France (/wiki/France) . It is sometimes called the "Queen of lace." Lace making began in Alençon during the 16th century and the local industry was rapidly expanded during the reign of Louis XIV (/wiki/Louis_XIV_of_France) by Jean-Baptiste Colbert (/wiki/Jean-Baptiste_Colbert) , who established a Royal Workshop in the town to produce lace in the Venetian style (/wiki/Venetian_lace) in 1665. The purpose of establishing this workshop was to reduce the French court's dependence on expensive foreign imports. Marthe La Perrière (/wiki/Marthe_La_Perri%C3%A8re) had modified the Venetian (/wiki/Venice) technique and Alençon emerged as a unique style around 1675 after Colbert's monopoly ended. The lace employs a mesh ground and incorporates pattern motifs with a raised outline of closely packed buttonhole stitches, an outer edge decorated with picots, and open areas with decorative fillings. [4] (#cite_note-4) History [ edit ] Though the demand for lace went into sharp decline following the French Revolution (/wiki/French_Revolution) , it recovered some of its popularity during the Second French Empire (/wiki/Second_French_Empire) . St. Marie-Azélie Guérin Martin (/wiki/Marie-Az%C3%A9lie_Gu%C3%A9rin_Martin) , [5] (#cite_note-5) the mother of St. Thérèse of Lisieux (/wiki/St._Th%C3%A9r%C3%A8se_of_Lisieux) [6] (#cite_note-6) was a famous lace-maker at Alençon. Bamba Müller (/wiki/Bamba_M%C3%BCller) , the wife of the Maharaja Duleep Singh (/wiki/Duleep_Singh) , wore an Alençon trimmed gown on the occasion of her wedding in Alexandria, Egypt (/wiki/Alexandria) in 1864. [7] (#cite_note-7) The manufacture of Alençon lace entered terminal decline at the end of the 19th century with changes in fashion and the development of cheaper, machine-made lace. Hand-made lace-making survived on a small scale and the technique was preserved by Carmelite nuns in Alençon. In 1976 a National Lace Workshop was established in the town to ensure that this lace-making technique survives. There is a permanent exhibition of lace and a display showing how it is made in the Musée des Beaux Arts et de la Dentelle, located in the town centre and adjoining the Workshop. The workshops themselves are open to the public only on certain days of the year. UNESCO recognised the unusual craftsmanship of this lace and added it to its Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity [8] (#cite_note-8) in November 2010. See also [ edit ] Alençon (/wiki/Alen%C3%A7on) Lace (/wiki/Lace) Brussels lace (/wiki/Brussels_lace) Flanders lace (/wiki/Flanders_lace) List of fabric names (/wiki/List_of_fabric_names) Normandy (/wiki/Normandy) Wedding dress of Grace Kelly (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Grace_Kelly) Bibliography [ edit ] Despierres, Gérasime Bonnaire (/wiki/%C3%89l%C3%A9onore-Agla%C3%A9-Marie_Despierres) (1987). Alençon lace . Aberdeen: Aberdeen University Press. p. 207. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-08-034512-3 . Duval, Louis (1883). Documents pour servir à l'histoire de la fabrication du point d'Alençon (in French). Alençon: E. Renaut-de Broise. p. 108. Notes [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Alençon" (http://www.lexico.com/definition/Alen%C3%A7on) . Lexico (/wiki/Lexico) UK English Dictionary . Oxford University Press (/wiki/Oxford_University_Press) . [ dead link ] ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Alençon" (https://www.collinsdictionary.com/dictionary/english/alencon) . Collins English Dictionary (/wiki/Collins_English_Dictionary) . HarperCollins (/wiki/HarperCollins) . Retrieved 29 July 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "alençon" (https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/alen%C3%A7on) . Merriam-Webster.com Dictionary (/wiki/Merriam-Webster) . Retrieved 29 July 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Leader, Jean E. "An Edging of Alençon Lace" (https://www.jeanleader.net/collection/alencon.html) . Retrieved 27 July 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Shrine Louis and Zelie Martin (Alençon-France) - Zelie Martin's life (http://www.louiszeliemartin-alencon.com/eng/the-message/z%C3%A9lie-s-life/) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20140315142650/http://www.louiszeliemartin-alencon.com/eng/the-message/z%C3%A9lie-s-life/) 2014-03-15 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ^ (#cite_ref-6) Shrine Louis and Zelie Martin (Alençon-France) - St. Therese's life (http://www.louiszeliemartin-alencon.com/eng/the-message/the-life-of-st-th%C3%A9r%C3%A8se/) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20140315143024/http://www.louiszeliemartin-alencon.com/eng/the-message/the-life-of-st-th%C3%A9r%C3%A8se/) 2014-03-15 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ^ (#cite_ref-7) Singh, Ganda (1977). Maharaja Duleep Singh Correspondence, Vol. 3 . Patiala: Punjabi University. p. 94. ^ (#cite_ref-8) "Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage" (http://www.unesco.org/new/en/media-services/single-view/news/forty_six_new_elements_added_to_representative_list_of_the_intangible_cultural_heritage/) . Retrieved 21 November 2010 . External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Point d'Alençon (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Point_d%27Alen%C3%A7on) . Alençon Lace - History (http://visitnormandy.wordpress.com/2010/11/16/alencon-lace/) Alençon Lace - Illustrated Description of Technique (http://www.normandie-chambres.co.uk/alencon.html#lace) Alençon Museum of Fine Arts and Lace (https://web.archive.org/web/20101119104955/http://www.paysdalencontourisme.com/musee-beaux-arts-dentelle-alencon_784_fr.html) Alençon Tourist Office (https://web.archive.org/web/20100815014457/http://www.paysdalencontourisme.com/welcome_857_fr.html) Shrine of Alençon - Zelie Martin, a famous lace-maker (http://www.louiszeliemartin-alencon.com/) "L'art des dentellières d'Alençon" (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o_DrC9NGiJA) (video) . youtube.com (in French). Communauté Urbaine d'Alençon. April 17, 2020. v t e Lace (/wiki/Lace) types Needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Punto in Aria (/wiki/Punto_in_Aria) Point de Venise (/wiki/Point_de_Venise) Point de France (/wiki/Point_de_France) Alençon Aemilia Ars (/w/index.php?title=Aemilia_Ars&action=edit&redlink=1) Argentan (/wiki/Argentan_lace) Argentella (/wiki/Argentella) Armenian (/wiki/Armenian_needlelace) Burano (https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merletto%20di%20Burano) Halas lace (/wiki/Halas_lace) Hedebo embroidery (/wiki/Hedebo_embroidery) Hollie Point (/wiki/Hollie_Point) Nallıhan (/wiki/Nall%C4%B1han_silk_needlelace) Point de Gaze (/wiki/Point_de_Gaze) Kenmare Lace (/wiki/Kenmare_lace) Ñandutí (/wiki/%C3%91andut%C3%AD) Oya (/wiki/Oya_(lace)) Pag (/wiki/Pag_lace) Puncetto Valsesiano (/w/index.php?title=Puncetto_Valsesiano&action=edit&redlink=1) Tenerife (/wiki/Tenerife_lace) Youghal (/wiki/Youghal_lace) Embroidery (/wiki/Embroidery) Buratto (/wiki/Buratto) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Reticella (/wiki/Reticella) Limerick (/wiki/Limerick_lace) Needlerun net (/wiki/Needlerun_net) Tambour (/wiki/Tambour_lace) Cutwork (/wiki/Cutwork) Broderie anglaise (/wiki/Broderie_anglaise) Carrickmacross (/wiki/Carrickmacross_lace) Lefkara lace (/wiki/Lefkara_lace) Saba lace (/wiki/Saba_lace) Bobbin lace (/wiki/Bobbin_lace) Mesh grounds (/wiki/Mesh_grounded_bobbin_lace) Torchon (/wiki/Torchon_lace) Freehand (/wiki/Freehand_lace) Arras (/wiki/Arras_lace) Bayeux (/wiki/Bayeux_lace) Beeralu (/w/index.php?title=Beeralu&action=edit&redlink=1) Blonde (/wiki/Blonde_lace) Bucks point (/wiki/Bucks_point_lace) Chantilly (/wiki/Chantilly_lace) Chefoo (/w/index.php?title=Chefoo_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Cogne (/wiki/Cogne_lace) Tønder (/wiki/T%C3%B8nder_lace) Beveren (/wiki/Beveren_lace) Lille (/wiki/Lille_lace) Binche (/wiki/Binche_lace) Flanders (/wiki/Flanders_lace) Paris (/wiki/Paris_lace) Valenciennes (/wiki/Valenciennes_lace) Antwerp (/wiki/Antwerp_lace) Mechlin (/wiki/Mechlin_lace) Ipswich (/wiki/Ipswich_lace) 's Gravenmoer (/w/index.php?title=%27s_Gravenmoer_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Mundillo (/wiki/Mundillo) Guipure (/wiki/Guipure) Greek (/wiki/Greek_lace) Genoese (/wiki/Genoese_lace) Bedfordshire (/wiki/Bedfordshire_lace) Cluny (/wiki/Cluny_lace) Dentelle du Puy (https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dentelle_du_Puy) Liptov (/wiki/Liptov) Maltese (/wiki/Maltese_lace) Yak lace (/wiki/Yak_lace) Part laces (/wiki/Part_lace) Honiton (/wiki/Honiton_lace) Bruges (/wiki/Bruges_lace) Brussels (/wiki/Brussels_lace) Rosaline (/wiki/Rosaline_lace) Point d'Angleterre (/wiki/Brussels_lace#Point_d'Angleterre) Tape (/wiki/Bobbin_tape_lace) Cantù (/w/index.php?title=Cant%C3%B9_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Milanese (/wiki/Milanese_bobbin_lace) Hinojosa (/w/index.php?title=Hinojosa_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Russian (/wiki/Russian_lace) Idrija (/wiki/Idrija_lace) Schneeberg (/wiki/Schneeberg_lace) Peasant (/w/index.php?title=Peasant_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Tape lace (/wiki/Tape_lace) Mezzopunto (/w/index.php?title=Mezzopunto&action=edit&redlink=1) Princess (/wiki/Princess_lace) Renaissance (/wiki/Renaissance_lace) Battenberg (/wiki/Battenberg_lace) Romanian point (/wiki/Romanian_point_lace) Branscombe (/wiki/Branscombe_lace) Crocheted lace (/wiki/Crocheted_lace) Broomstick lace (/wiki/Broomstick_lace) Irish crochet (/wiki/Irish_lace) Hairpin (/wiki/Hairpin_lace) Filet crochet (/wiki/Filet_crochet) Orvieto lace (/w/index.php?title=Orvieto_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Machine (/wiki/Lace_machine) -made lace Bobbinet (/wiki/Bobbinet) Leavers (/wiki/Leavers_machine) Pusher (/wiki/Pusher_machine) Barmen (/wiki/Barmen_lace_machine) Curtain Machine (/wiki/Nottingham_lace_curtain_machine) Chemical (/wiki/Chemical_lace) Raschel (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Stocking Frame (/wiki/Stocking_frame) Warp Knit (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Other handmade laces Metal laces (/wiki/Metal_lace) Lace knitting (/wiki/Lace_knitting) Macramé (/wiki/Macram%C3%A9) Tatting (/wiki/Tatting) Punto a groppo (/wiki/Punto_a_groppo) Sprang (/wiki/Sprang) Liturgical lace (/wiki/Liturgical_lace) Media related to Lace (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Lace) at Wikimedia Commons Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Clothing portal (/wiki/Portal:Clothing) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6f54559974‐bmqzr Cached time: 20240720191727 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.515 seconds Real time usage: 0.700 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1446/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 56131/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 1452/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 17/100 Expensive parser function count: 4/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 43767/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.361/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 15047131/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 614.810 1 -total 18.49% 113.699 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18th-century lace from Normandy, France For the commune, see Argentan (/wiki/Argentan) . Argentan lace Type Lace (/wiki/Lace) Production method Needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) Production process Craft production (/wiki/Craft_production) Place of origin Argentan (/wiki/Argentan) , France Introduced 18th century Argentan lace or Point d'Argentan is an 18th century needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) from Argentan (/wiki/Argentan) , France. Argentella (/wiki/Argentella) is derived from Argentan. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) [2] (#cite_note-2) Argentan lace exhibits a more prominent and larger pattern in contrast to its nearest variant, Alençon lace (/wiki/Alen%C3%A7on_lace) . [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) A distinctive feature of Argentan point lace is the " bride picotée (/wiki/Bride_Picot%C3%A9e) ", which may have originated from early Venetian lace-making techniques. [3] (#cite_note-3) fragment of Venetian Punto Argentan needle lace edging The Scuola Merletti di Burano (/wiki/Lace_Museum) produced needle lace inspired by the French Argentan and d’Alençon, but with characteristics of its own and new motifs. [4] (#cite_note-4) See also [ edit ] List of fabric names (/wiki/List_of_fabric_names) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b Jackson, Emily (1900). A History of Hand-made Lace: Dealing with the Origin of Lace, the Growth of the Great Lace Centres, the Mode of Manufacture, the Methods of Distinguishing and the Care of Various Kinds of Lace . L.U. Gill. p. 113. ^ (#cite_ref-2) Brooke, Margaret L. (1925). Lace in the making with bobbins and needle . Boni. p. 138 . Retrieved 29 April 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) PALLISER, Fanny Bury (1875). A History of Lace ... Second edition. With a bibliography . Sampson Low&Company. p. 178. ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Needlepoint Lace (Punto Argentan) - 1936.253 Cleveland Museum of Art" (https://www.clevelandart.org/art/1936.253) . www.clevelandart.org . Retrieved 2 February 2024 . External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Point d'Argentan (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Point_d%27Argentan) . v t e Lace (/wiki/Lace) types Needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Punto in Aria (/wiki/Punto_in_Aria) Point de Venise (/wiki/Point_de_Venise) Point de France (/wiki/Point_de_France) Alençon (/wiki/Alen%C3%A7on_lace) Aemilia Ars (/w/index.php?title=Aemilia_Ars&action=edit&redlink=1) Argentan Argentella (/wiki/Argentella) Armenian (/wiki/Armenian_needlelace) Burano (https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merletto%20di%20Burano) Halas lace (/wiki/Halas_lace) Hedebo embroidery (/wiki/Hedebo_embroidery) Hollie Point (/wiki/Hollie_Point) Nallıhan (/wiki/Nall%C4%B1han_silk_needlelace) Point de Gaze (/wiki/Point_de_Gaze) Kenmare Lace (/wiki/Kenmare_lace) Ñandutí (/wiki/%C3%91andut%C3%AD) Oya (/wiki/Oya_(lace)) Pag (/wiki/Pag_lace) Puncetto Valsesiano (/w/index.php?title=Puncetto_Valsesiano&action=edit&redlink=1) Tenerife (/wiki/Tenerife_lace) Youghal (/wiki/Youghal_lace) Embroidery (/wiki/Embroidery) Buratto (/wiki/Buratto) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Reticella (/wiki/Reticella) Limerick (/wiki/Limerick_lace) Needlerun net (/wiki/Needlerun_net) Tambour (/wiki/Tambour_lace) Cutwork (/wiki/Cutwork) Broderie anglaise (/wiki/Broderie_anglaise) Carrickmacross (/wiki/Carrickmacross_lace) Lefkara lace (/wiki/Lefkara_lace) Saba lace (/wiki/Saba_lace) Bobbin lace (/wiki/Bobbin_lace) Mesh grounds (/wiki/Mesh_grounded_bobbin_lace) Torchon (/wiki/Torchon_lace) Freehand (/wiki/Freehand_lace) Arras (/wiki/Arras_lace) Bayeux (/wiki/Bayeux_lace) Beeralu (/w/index.php?title=Beeralu&action=edit&redlink=1) Blonde (/wiki/Blonde_lace) Bucks point (/wiki/Bucks_point_lace) Chantilly (/wiki/Chantilly_lace) Chefoo (/w/index.php?title=Chefoo_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Cogne (/wiki/Cogne_lace) Tønder (/wiki/T%C3%B8nder_lace) Beveren (/wiki/Beveren_lace) Lille (/wiki/Lille_lace) Binche (/wiki/Binche_lace) Flanders (/wiki/Flanders_lace) Paris (/wiki/Paris_lace) Valenciennes (/wiki/Valenciennes_lace) Antwerp (/wiki/Antwerp_lace) Mechlin (/wiki/Mechlin_lace) Ipswich (/wiki/Ipswich_lace) 's Gravenmoer (/w/index.php?title=%27s_Gravenmoer_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Mundillo (/wiki/Mundillo) Guipure (/wiki/Guipure) Greek (/wiki/Greek_lace) Genoese (/wiki/Genoese_lace) Bedfordshire (/wiki/Bedfordshire_lace) Cluny (/wiki/Cluny_lace) Dentelle du Puy (https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dentelle_du_Puy) Liptov (/wiki/Liptov) Maltese (/wiki/Maltese_lace) Yak lace (/wiki/Yak_lace) Part laces (/wiki/Part_lace) Honiton (/wiki/Honiton_lace) Bruges (/wiki/Bruges_lace) Brussels (/wiki/Brussels_lace) Rosaline (/wiki/Rosaline_lace) Point d'Angleterre (/wiki/Brussels_lace#Point_d'Angleterre) Tape (/wiki/Bobbin_tape_lace) Cantù (/w/index.php?title=Cant%C3%B9_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Milanese (/wiki/Milanese_bobbin_lace) Hinojosa (/w/index.php?title=Hinojosa_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Russian (/wiki/Russian_lace) Idrija (/wiki/Idrija_lace) Schneeberg (/wiki/Schneeberg_lace) Peasant (/w/index.php?title=Peasant_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Tape lace (/wiki/Tape_lace) Mezzopunto (/w/index.php?title=Mezzopunto&action=edit&redlink=1) Princess (/wiki/Princess_lace) Renaissance (/wiki/Renaissance_lace) Battenberg (/wiki/Battenberg_lace) Romanian point (/wiki/Romanian_point_lace) Branscombe (/wiki/Branscombe_lace) Crocheted lace (/wiki/Crocheted_lace) Broomstick lace (/wiki/Broomstick_lace) Irish crochet (/wiki/Irish_lace) Hairpin (/wiki/Hairpin_lace) Filet crochet (/wiki/Filet_crochet) Orvieto lace (/w/index.php?title=Orvieto_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Machine (/wiki/Lace_machine) -made lace Bobbinet (/wiki/Bobbinet) Leavers (/wiki/Leavers_machine) Pusher (/wiki/Pusher_machine) Barmen (/wiki/Barmen_lace_machine) Curtain Machine (/wiki/Nottingham_lace_curtain_machine) Chemical (/wiki/Chemical_lace) Raschel (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Stocking Frame (/wiki/Stocking_frame) Warp Knit (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Other handmade laces Metal laces (/wiki/Metal_lace) Lace knitting (/wiki/Lace_knitting) Macramé (/wiki/Macram%C3%A9) Tatting (/wiki/Tatting) Punto a groppo (/wiki/Punto_a_groppo) Sprang (/wiki/Sprang) Liturgical lace (/wiki/Liturgical_lace) Media related to Lace (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Lace) at Wikimedia Commons Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Clothing portal (/wiki/Portal:Clothing) This textile arts (/wiki/Textile_arts) article is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . You can help Wikipedia by expanding it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Argentan_lace&action=edit) . v t e This article about textiles (/wiki/Textile) is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . 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Needle lacing technique originating in England Sampler contains Hollie point lace fillings Hollie point is an English needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) noted for its use in baby clothes, particularly in the 18th century. It is also known as Holy point , because it was originally used in liturgical laces. The Puritans were the first to make common usage of Hollie point beginning in the reign of James I. [1] (#cite_note-1) Hollie point is a flat needlepoint (/wiki/Needlepoint) lace whose name derives either from lace made for religious purposes ( holy work ) or from the holes that create the pattern. [2] (#cite_note-trc-2) It is made up of rows of twisted buttonhole stitches (/wiki/Buttonhole_stitch) worked over horizontal threads. At the end of each row, the stitching returns to the starting point, creating the next horizontal thread. [3] (#cite_note-head-3) Simple pinprick designs are created by leaving gaps, or holes, in the otherwise plain cloth work formed by the buttonhole stitches. [4] (#cite_note-earnshaw-4) Hollie point has always been more or a domestic, rather than a professional, art. [2] (#cite_note-trc-2) Hollie point was used primarily on baby clothes (/wiki/Infant_clothing) in the 18th and early 19th century, especially, christening sets (/wiki/Christening_gown) . The lace was stitched in the crown of baby bonnets (/wiki/Bonnet_(headgear)) , or caps, and sometimes on a band that extended from the centre front of the cap to the nape of the neck. The shoulder seams of small shirts were decorated with initials, dates, and mottoes. [3] (#cite_note-head-3) Lace designs included religious motifs such as lilies of the annunciation (/wiki/Lilium_candidum#In_culture) , Tree of life (/wiki/Tree_of_life_(biblical)) , Star of Bethlehem (/wiki/Star_of_Bethlehem) , dove of peace (/wiki/Dove_of_peace#Christianity) , and Crown of Glory (/wiki/Crown_of_Glory) . [4] (#cite_note-earnshaw-4) Earlier mentions of similarly named laces, such as collars of "hollie work" that were listed in an inventory of Mary Queen of Scots (/wiki/Mary_Queen_of_Scots) , are thought to refer to other types of needlework that were done as "holy work". [2] (#cite_note-trc-2) The Royal School of Needlework (/wiki/Royal_School_of_Needlework) provides guidelines and structural details to reproduce Hollie Point stitches. References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Caulfeild, S.F.A. (1882). The Dictionary of Needlework . London: A. Bradley. pp. 253 (https://archive.org/details/DictionaryNeedlework/page/n314) . ^ Jump up to: a b c "Hollie Point" (https://trc-leiden.nl/trc-needles/regional-traditions/europe-and-north-america/lace-types/hollie-point) . Textile Research Center . Retrieved 16 March 2018 . ^ Jump up to: a b Head, R. E. (1922). The Lace & Embroidery Collector: A Guide to Collectors of Old Lace and Embroidery . Dodd, Mead. pp. 87 (https://archive.org/details/laceembroideryco00head/page/87) –89. ^ Jump up to: a b Earnshaw, Pat (1999). A Dictionary of Lace . Courier Corporation. pp. 80–. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-486-40482-0 . External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Hollie point (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Hollie_point) . 18th century baby caps with hollie point lace (http://larsdatter.com/18c/baby-caps.html#hollie) v t e Lace (/wiki/Lace) types Needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Punto in Aria (/wiki/Punto_in_Aria) Point de Venise (/wiki/Point_de_Venise) Point de France (/wiki/Point_de_France) Alençon (/wiki/Alen%C3%A7on_lace) Aemilia Ars (/w/index.php?title=Aemilia_Ars&action=edit&redlink=1) Argentan (/wiki/Argentan_lace) Argentella (/wiki/Argentella) Armenian (/wiki/Armenian_needlelace) Burano (https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merletto%20di%20Burano) Halas lace (/wiki/Halas_lace) Hedebo embroidery (/wiki/Hedebo_embroidery) Hollie Point (/wiki/Hollie_Point) Nallıhan (/wiki/Nall%C4%B1han_silk_needlelace) Point de Gaze (/wiki/Point_de_Gaze) Kenmare Lace (/wiki/Kenmare_lace) Ñandutí (/wiki/%C3%91andut%C3%AD) Oya (/wiki/Oya_(lace)) Pag (/wiki/Pag_lace) Puncetto Valsesiano (/w/index.php?title=Puncetto_Valsesiano&action=edit&redlink=1) Tenerife (/wiki/Tenerife_lace) Youghal (/wiki/Youghal_lace) Embroidery (/wiki/Embroidery) Buratto (/wiki/Buratto) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Reticella (/wiki/Reticella) Limerick (/wiki/Limerick_lace) Needlerun net (/wiki/Needlerun_net) Tambour (/wiki/Tambour_lace) Cutwork (/wiki/Cutwork) Broderie anglaise (/wiki/Broderie_anglaise) Carrickmacross (/wiki/Carrickmacross_lace) Lefkara lace (/wiki/Lefkara_lace) Saba lace (/wiki/Saba_lace) Bobbin lace (/wiki/Bobbin_lace) Mesh grounds (/wiki/Mesh_grounded_bobbin_lace) Torchon (/wiki/Torchon_lace) Freehand (/wiki/Freehand_lace) Arras (/wiki/Arras_lace) Bayeux (/wiki/Bayeux_lace) Beeralu (/w/index.php?title=Beeralu&action=edit&redlink=1) Blonde (/wiki/Blonde_lace) Bucks point (/wiki/Bucks_point_lace) Chantilly (/wiki/Chantilly_lace) Chefoo (/w/index.php?title=Chefoo_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Cogne (/wiki/Cogne_lace) Tønder (/wiki/T%C3%B8nder_lace) Beveren (/wiki/Beveren_lace) Lille (/wiki/Lille_lace) Binche (/wiki/Binche_lace) Flanders (/wiki/Flanders_lace) Paris (/wiki/Paris_lace) Valenciennes (/wiki/Valenciennes_lace) Antwerp (/wiki/Antwerp_lace) Mechlin (/wiki/Mechlin_lace) Ipswich (/wiki/Ipswich_lace) 's Gravenmoer (/w/index.php?title=%27s_Gravenmoer_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Mundillo (/wiki/Mundillo) Guipure (/wiki/Guipure) Greek (/wiki/Greek_lace) Genoese (/wiki/Genoese_lace) Bedfordshire (/wiki/Bedfordshire_lace) Cluny (/wiki/Cluny_lace) Dentelle du Puy (https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dentelle_du_Puy) Liptov (/wiki/Liptov) Maltese (/wiki/Maltese_lace) Yak lace (/wiki/Yak_lace) Part laces (/wiki/Part_lace) Honiton (/wiki/Honiton_lace) Bruges (/wiki/Bruges_lace) Brussels (/wiki/Brussels_lace) Rosaline (/wiki/Rosaline_lace) Point d'Angleterre (/wiki/Brussels_lace#Point_d'Angleterre) Tape (/wiki/Bobbin_tape_lace) Cantù (/w/index.php?title=Cant%C3%B9_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Milanese (/wiki/Milanese_bobbin_lace) Hinojosa (/w/index.php?title=Hinojosa_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Russian (/wiki/Russian_lace) Idrija (/wiki/Idrija_lace) Schneeberg (/wiki/Schneeberg_lace) Peasant (/w/index.php?title=Peasant_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Tape lace (/wiki/Tape_lace) Mezzopunto (/w/index.php?title=Mezzopunto&action=edit&redlink=1) Princess (/wiki/Princess_lace) Renaissance (/wiki/Renaissance_lace) Battenberg (/wiki/Battenberg_lace) Romanian point (/wiki/Romanian_point_lace) Branscombe (/wiki/Branscombe_lace) Crocheted lace (/wiki/Crocheted_lace) Broomstick lace (/wiki/Broomstick_lace) Irish crochet (/wiki/Irish_lace) Hairpin (/wiki/Hairpin_lace) Filet crochet (/wiki/Filet_crochet) Orvieto lace (/w/index.php?title=Orvieto_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Machine (/wiki/Lace_machine) -made lace Bobbinet (/wiki/Bobbinet) Leavers (/wiki/Leavers_machine) Pusher (/wiki/Pusher_machine) Barmen (/wiki/Barmen_lace_machine) Curtain Machine (/wiki/Nottingham_lace_curtain_machine) Chemical (/wiki/Chemical_lace) Raschel (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Stocking Frame (/wiki/Stocking_frame) Warp Knit (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Other handmade laces Metal laces (/wiki/Metal_lace) Lace knitting (/wiki/Lace_knitting) Macramé (/wiki/Macram%C3%A9) Tatting (/wiki/Tatting) Punto a groppo (/wiki/Punto_a_groppo) Sprang (/wiki/Sprang) Liturgical lace (/wiki/Liturgical_lace) Media related to Lace (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Lace) at Wikimedia Commons Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Clothing portal (/wiki/Portal:Clothing) This textile arts (/wiki/Textile_arts) article is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . 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Point de Gaze Point de Gaze Jabot, 19th century, Brussels, Belgium Type Lace (/wiki/Lace) Production method Needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) Production process Craft production (/wiki/Craft_production) Place of origin Brussels (/wiki/Brussels) , Belgium Introduced 19th century Point de Gaze (sometimes Point de Gauze ) is a needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) from Belgium named for the gauze (/wiki/Gauze) -like appearance of the mesh ground. It was made from the early to mid 1800s to sometime between 1914 and the 1930s. Etymology [ edit ] The word lace is from Middle English (/wiki/Middle_English) , from Old French (/wiki/Old_French) las, noose , string , from Vulgar Latin (/wiki/Vulgar_Latin) *laceum, from Latin (/wiki/Latin) laqueus, noose ; probably akin to lacere, to entice , ensnare . [1] (#cite_note-1) This type of lace takes its name from the fact that its ground mesh is very loose. [2] (#cite_note-:1-2) : 87 At one time, the French names of bobbin (/wiki/Bobbin_lace) and needle laces were preceded by the word "point." [2] (#cite_note-:1-2) : 86 Characteristics [ edit ] Point de Gaze is made of open, twisted buttonhole stitches (/wiki/Buttonhole_stitch) [3] (#cite_note-3) of very fine thread. [4] (#cite_note-:0-4) The buttonholes connect through each other, yielding a light, gauze-like ground fabric. This type of lace uses floral designs, [4] (#cite_note-:0-4) with both garden and wild flowers evident. [5] (#cite_note-:2-5) : 151 Also found are ferns and leaves. These floral designs frequently included borders, scrolls, and other non-floral elements. [5] (#cite_note-:2-5) : 151 Either cotton (/wiki/Cotton) or linen (/wiki/Linen) thread can be used to make it. It was used to make clothing (dresses, shawls, and flounces) as well as accessories, such as handkerchiefs, parasols, and fans. [2] (#cite_note-:1-2) : 87 Origins and history [ edit ] Point de Gaze lace handkerchief, 19th century Flanders Point de Gaze is a type of needlepoint lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) that originated in the area of Brussels, Belgium. It was constructed from the middle of the 19th century until approximately the start of World War I in 1914 [5] (#cite_note-:2-5) : 149 or until the 1930s. [4] (#cite_note-:0-4) One source indicates that its manufacture started earlier, in the 1830s. [2] (#cite_note-:1-2) : 87 The Schiffli machine, which used net to mimic the gauze-like texture, was able to imitate the production of hand-made Point de Gaze lace. [4] (#cite_note-:0-4) References [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Point de gaze (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Point_de_gaze) . ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Show election" (http://www.thefreedictionary.com/lace) . Lace . Retrieved 2012-05-23 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d Bath, Virginia Churchill. (1979). Lace . Harmondsworth, Eng.: Penguin Books. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-14-046378-X . OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 4494296 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/4494296) . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Stillwell, Alexandra. (1996). Cassell illustrated dictionary of lacemaking . London: Cassell. p. 164. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-304-34145-2 . OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 34597563 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/34597563) . ^ Jump up to: a b c d Earnshaw, Pat. (1999). A dictionary of lace . Mineola, NY: Dover. p. 131. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-486-40482-X . OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 41518399 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/41518399) . ^ Jump up to: a b c Gwynne, Judyth L. (1997). The illustrated dictionary of lace . Berkeley, Calif.: LACIS Publications. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-916896-86-2 . OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 40896024 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/40896024) . hide v t e Lace (/wiki/Lace) types Needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Punto in Aria (/wiki/Punto_in_Aria) Point de Venise (/wiki/Point_de_Venise) Point de France (/wiki/Point_de_France) Alençon (/wiki/Alen%C3%A7on_lace) Aemilia Ars (/w/index.php?title=Aemilia_Ars&action=edit&redlink=1) Argentan (/wiki/Argentan_lace) Argentella (/wiki/Argentella) Armenian (/wiki/Armenian_needlelace) Burano (https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merletto%20di%20Burano) Halas lace (/wiki/Halas_lace) Hedebo embroidery (/wiki/Hedebo_embroidery) Hollie Point (/wiki/Hollie_Point) Nallıhan (/wiki/Nall%C4%B1han_silk_needlelace) Point de Gaze Kenmare Lace (/wiki/Kenmare_lace) Ñandutí (/wiki/%C3%91andut%C3%AD) Oya (/wiki/Oya_(lace)) Pag (/wiki/Pag_lace) Puncetto Valsesiano (/w/index.php?title=Puncetto_Valsesiano&action=edit&redlink=1) Tenerife (/wiki/Tenerife_lace) Youghal (/wiki/Youghal_lace) Embroidery (/wiki/Embroidery) Buratto (/wiki/Buratto) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Reticella (/wiki/Reticella) Limerick (/wiki/Limerick_lace) Needlerun net (/wiki/Needlerun_net) Tambour (/wiki/Tambour_lace) Cutwork (/wiki/Cutwork) Broderie anglaise (/wiki/Broderie_anglaise) Carrickmacross (/wiki/Carrickmacross_lace) Lefkara lace (/wiki/Lefkara_lace) Saba lace (/wiki/Saba_lace) Bobbin lace (/wiki/Bobbin_lace) Mesh grounds (/wiki/Mesh_grounded_bobbin_lace) Torchon (/wiki/Torchon_lace) Freehand (/wiki/Freehand_lace) Arras (/wiki/Arras_lace) Bayeux (/wiki/Bayeux_lace) Beeralu (/w/index.php?title=Beeralu&action=edit&redlink=1) Blonde (/wiki/Blonde_lace) Bucks point (/wiki/Bucks_point_lace) Chantilly (/wiki/Chantilly_lace) Chefoo (/w/index.php?title=Chefoo_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Cogne (/wiki/Cogne_lace) Tønder (/wiki/T%C3%B8nder_lace) Beveren (/wiki/Beveren_lace) Lille (/wiki/Lille_lace) Binche (/wiki/Binche_lace) Flanders (/wiki/Flanders_lace) Paris (/wiki/Paris_lace) Valenciennes (/wiki/Valenciennes_lace) Antwerp (/wiki/Antwerp_lace) Mechlin (/wiki/Mechlin_lace) Ipswich (/wiki/Ipswich_lace) 's Gravenmoer (/w/index.php?title=%27s_Gravenmoer_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Mundillo (/wiki/Mundillo) Guipure (/wiki/Guipure) Greek (/wiki/Greek_lace) Genoese (/wiki/Genoese_lace) Bedfordshire (/wiki/Bedfordshire_lace) Cluny (/wiki/Cluny_lace) Dentelle du Puy (https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dentelle_du_Puy) Liptov (/wiki/Liptov) Maltese (/wiki/Maltese_lace) Yak lace (/wiki/Yak_lace) Part laces (/wiki/Part_lace) Honiton (/wiki/Honiton_lace) Bruges (/wiki/Bruges_lace) Brussels (/wiki/Brussels_lace) Rosaline (/wiki/Rosaline_lace) Point d'Angleterre (/wiki/Brussels_lace#Point_d'Angleterre) Tape (/wiki/Bobbin_tape_lace) Cantù (/w/index.php?title=Cant%C3%B9_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Milanese (/wiki/Milanese_bobbin_lace) Hinojosa (/w/index.php?title=Hinojosa_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Russian (/wiki/Russian_lace) Idrija (/wiki/Idrija_lace) Schneeberg (/wiki/Schneeberg_lace) Peasant (/w/index.php?title=Peasant_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Tape lace (/wiki/Tape_lace) Mezzopunto (/w/index.php?title=Mezzopunto&action=edit&redlink=1) Princess (/wiki/Princess_lace) Renaissance (/wiki/Renaissance_lace) Battenberg (/wiki/Battenberg_lace) Romanian point (/wiki/Romanian_point_lace) Branscombe (/wiki/Branscombe_lace) Crocheted lace (/wiki/Crocheted_lace) Broomstick lace (/wiki/Broomstick_lace) Irish crochet (/wiki/Irish_lace) Hairpin (/wiki/Hairpin_lace) Filet crochet (/wiki/Filet_crochet) Orvieto lace (/w/index.php?title=Orvieto_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Machine (/wiki/Lace_machine) -made lace Bobbinet (/wiki/Bobbinet) Leavers (/wiki/Leavers_machine) Pusher (/wiki/Pusher_machine) Barmen (/wiki/Barmen_lace_machine) Curtain Machine (/wiki/Nottingham_lace_curtain_machine) Chemical (/wiki/Chemical_lace) Raschel (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Stocking Frame (/wiki/Stocking_frame) Warp Knit (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Other handmade laces Metal laces (/wiki/Metal_lace) Lace knitting (/wiki/Lace_knitting) Macramé (/wiki/Macram%C3%A9) Tatting (/wiki/Tatting) Punto a groppo (/wiki/Punto_a_groppo) Sprang (/wiki/Sprang) Liturgical lace (/wiki/Liturgical_lace) Media related to Lace (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Lace) at Wikimedia Commons Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Clothing portal (/wiki/Portal:Clothing) This textile arts (/wiki/Textile_arts) article is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . 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Needle lace developed in Youghal, Ireland This article includes a list of general references (/wiki/Wikipedia:Citing_sources) , but it lacks sufficient corresponding inline citations (/wiki/Wikipedia:Citing_sources#Inline_citations) . Please help to improve (/wiki/Wikipedia:WikiProject_Reliability) this article by introducing (/wiki/Wikipedia:When_to_cite) more precise citations. ( July 2021 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Youghal lace Wedding handkerchief of linen trimmed with Youghal lace Type Lace (/wiki/Lace) Production method Needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) Production process Craft production (/wiki/Craft_production) Place of origin Youghal (/wiki/Youghal) , Ireland. Introduced 1845 Youghal lace (or Point d'Irlande ) is a needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) inspired by Italian needle lace and developed in Youghal (/wiki/Youghal) , County Cork (/wiki/County_Cork) , Ireland. Origins [ edit ] Youghal Lace was perhaps the most successful of the nineteenth century Irish needlelaces. In 1845 Mother Mary Ann Smith (d.1872), one of the Presentation Sisters (/wiki/Presentation_Sisters) , unpicked some Italian lace to discover the techniques used to make it, and then taught them to local women. [1] (#cite_note-1) The Convent Lace School was opened in Youghal in 1852. [2] (#cite_note-2) Youghal lace was made to a high standard and employed a wide variety of motifs. It was therefore able to survive as a commercial product until the First World War, which saw the general demise of handmade lacemaking. [3] (#cite_note-3) Characteristics [ edit ] Youghal Lace (https://www.youghalonline.com/youghal-lace/) is considered a true lace as it is created with a sewing needle and thread only. It was created in Youghal and Kenmare (/wiki/Kenmare) . [4] (#cite_note-4) It was mostly used for fans, collars, cuffs and ecclesiastical trimmings. It is a flat needlepoint lace with no cordon nets. It uses a ladder like buttonhole stitches around each motif and edges decorated with a 'Venetian Stitch' or knotted border. The designs are primarily of flowers such as roses, anemones and fuchsia, with spiky shaped leaves. The shading of the petals are a result of the closeness of the buttonhole stitches. [5] (#cite_note-5) There were at least fifty distinct stitches associated with Youghal Lace. [6] (#cite_note-:0-6) Legacy [ edit ] Among the finest pieces of lace made in Youghal was a train for Queen Mary (/wiki/Mary_of_Teck) worn on her visit to India in 1911. The skill of lace making is still retained in Youghal to this day. There is no written record of either the stitches or the general technique at the Convents themselves. In 1863, a shawl of Youghal Lace was given to Alexandra of Denmark (/wiki/Alexandra_of_Denmark) on her wedding. In 1888, a Rocket and Altar trimming created in Youghal for the Bishops of Ireland as a gift to Pope Leo XIII was awarded a gold medal at the Vatican Exhibition. [7] (#cite_note-7) The following are known work relating to Youghal Lace in collections: A sampler of 43 stitches (in Kenmare Lace, similar to Youghal Lace), on display at the Kenmare Lace and Design (http://www.KenmareLace.ie) Centre in Kenmare (/wiki/Kenmare) . [a] (#cite_note-8) A court train made for Queen Mary and worn by her at the Delhi Durbar of 1911. A number of smaller pieces are available for viewing at Youghal Heritage Centre. A 1906, Youghal Lace collar is at National Museum of Ireland – Decorative Arts and History (/wiki/National_Museum_of_Ireland_%E2%80%93_Decorative_Arts_and_History) . [8] (#cite_note-9) Two books of designs drawn in Chinese white on paper tinted beige, pink, azure, crimson or midnight blue. The Needlecraft Practical Journal no.106, published by William Briggs under the Penelope trademark, c. 1909. Two books of designs for needlepoint lace, hand-painted by the nuns of St Clares Convent in the late 19th century, on display at the Kenmare Lace and Design Centre, Kenmare. Pat Earnshaw has written two books, Youghal and other Irish Lace [9] (#cite_note-10) and Youghal Lace, the craft and the cream . [6] (#cite_note-:0-6) Notes [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-8) The designs in Kenmare are examples of lace designs. None of them were drawn in youghal by the Presentation sisters there. References [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Youghal lace (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Youghal_lace) . ^ (#cite_ref-1) The Art of Lacemaking - Ann Collier, 1986 - ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-7153-8846-0 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-7153-8846-0) ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Youghal Lace | Guild of Irish Lacemakers" (http://www.irishlaceguild.com/?page_id=243) . Retrieved 20 January 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Leader, Jean E. "Lace Types: Irish Needle Lace" (https://www.lacetypes.com/ireland.html) . Retrieved 27 July 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Ryan, Vera. "Made in Cork" (https://crawfordartgallery.ie/wp-content/uploads/Made-in-Cork-1.pdf) (PDF) . Crawford Art Gallery . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "YOUGHAL NEEDLELACE" (https://embroiderersguildwa.org.au/collection/youghal-needlelace/) . Embroiderers' Guild of Western Australia . Retrieved 20 January 2022 . ^ Jump up to: a b Earnshaw, Pat (1990). Youghal lace : the craft and the cream . Guildford: Gorse. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-9513891-2-2 . OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 21082109 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/21082109) . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Coleman, James (1896). "Youghal Convent and Youghal Lace" (https://www.jstor.org/stable/20499048) . The Irish Monthly . 24 (281): 587–593. ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 2009-2113 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/2009-2113) . JSTOR (/wiki/JSTOR_(identifier)) 20499048 (https://www.jstor.org/stable/20499048) . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Youghal Lace Collar" (https://100objects.ie/youghal-lace-collar/) . 100 Objects . 31 January 2019 . Retrieved 20 January 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) Earnshaw, Pat (1988). Youghal and other Irish laces . Guildford, Surrey, England: Gorse Publications. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-9513891-0-6 . OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 24626790 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/24626790) . v t e Lace (/wiki/Lace) types Needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Punto in Aria (/wiki/Punto_in_Aria) Point de Venise (/wiki/Point_de_Venise) Point de France (/wiki/Point_de_France) Alençon (/wiki/Alen%C3%A7on_lace) Aemilia Ars (/w/index.php?title=Aemilia_Ars&action=edit&redlink=1) Argentan (/wiki/Argentan_lace) Argentella (/wiki/Argentella) Armenian (/wiki/Armenian_needlelace) Burano (https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merletto%20di%20Burano) Halas lace (/wiki/Halas_lace) Hedebo embroidery (/wiki/Hedebo_embroidery) Hollie Point (/wiki/Hollie_Point) Nallıhan (/wiki/Nall%C4%B1han_silk_needlelace) Point de Gaze (/wiki/Point_de_Gaze) Kenmare Lace (/wiki/Kenmare_lace) Ñandutí (/wiki/%C3%91andut%C3%AD) Oya (/wiki/Oya_(lace)) Pag (/wiki/Pag_lace) Puncetto Valsesiano (/w/index.php?title=Puncetto_Valsesiano&action=edit&redlink=1) Tenerife (/wiki/Tenerife_lace) Youghal Embroidery (/wiki/Embroidery) Buratto (/wiki/Buratto) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Reticella (/wiki/Reticella) Limerick (/wiki/Limerick_lace) Needlerun net (/wiki/Needlerun_net) Tambour (/wiki/Tambour_lace) Cutwork (/wiki/Cutwork) Broderie anglaise (/wiki/Broderie_anglaise) Carrickmacross (/wiki/Carrickmacross_lace) Lefkara lace (/wiki/Lefkara_lace) Saba lace (/wiki/Saba_lace) Bobbin lace (/wiki/Bobbin_lace) Mesh grounds (/wiki/Mesh_grounded_bobbin_lace) Torchon (/wiki/Torchon_lace) Freehand (/wiki/Freehand_lace) Arras (/wiki/Arras_lace) Bayeux (/wiki/Bayeux_lace) Beeralu (/w/index.php?title=Beeralu&action=edit&redlink=1) Blonde (/wiki/Blonde_lace) Bucks point (/wiki/Bucks_point_lace) Chantilly (/wiki/Chantilly_lace) Chefoo (/w/index.php?title=Chefoo_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Cogne (/wiki/Cogne_lace) Tønder (/wiki/T%C3%B8nder_lace) Beveren (/wiki/Beveren_lace) Lille (/wiki/Lille_lace) Binche (/wiki/Binche_lace) Flanders (/wiki/Flanders_lace) Paris (/wiki/Paris_lace) Valenciennes (/wiki/Valenciennes_lace) Antwerp (/wiki/Antwerp_lace) Mechlin (/wiki/Mechlin_lace) Ipswich (/wiki/Ipswich_lace) 's Gravenmoer (/w/index.php?title=%27s_Gravenmoer_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Mundillo (/wiki/Mundillo) Guipure (/wiki/Guipure) Greek (/wiki/Greek_lace) Genoese (/wiki/Genoese_lace) Bedfordshire (/wiki/Bedfordshire_lace) Cluny (/wiki/Cluny_lace) Dentelle du Puy (https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dentelle_du_Puy) Liptov (/wiki/Liptov) Maltese (/wiki/Maltese_lace) Yak lace (/wiki/Yak_lace) Part laces (/wiki/Part_lace) Honiton (/wiki/Honiton_lace) Bruges (/wiki/Bruges_lace) Brussels (/wiki/Brussels_lace) Rosaline (/wiki/Rosaline_lace) Point d'Angleterre (/wiki/Brussels_lace#Point_d'Angleterre) Tape (/wiki/Bobbin_tape_lace) Cantù (/w/index.php?title=Cant%C3%B9_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Milanese (/wiki/Milanese_bobbin_lace) Hinojosa (/w/index.php?title=Hinojosa_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Russian (/wiki/Russian_lace) Idrija (/wiki/Idrija_lace) Schneeberg (/wiki/Schneeberg_lace) Peasant (/w/index.php?title=Peasant_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Tape lace (/wiki/Tape_lace) Mezzopunto (/w/index.php?title=Mezzopunto&action=edit&redlink=1) Princess (/wiki/Princess_lace) Renaissance (/wiki/Renaissance_lace) Battenberg (/wiki/Battenberg_lace) Romanian point (/wiki/Romanian_point_lace) Branscombe (/wiki/Branscombe_lace) Crocheted lace (/wiki/Crocheted_lace) Broomstick lace (/wiki/Broomstick_lace) Irish crochet (/wiki/Irish_lace) Hairpin (/wiki/Hairpin_lace) Filet crochet (/wiki/Filet_crochet) Orvieto lace (/w/index.php?title=Orvieto_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Machine (/wiki/Lace_machine) -made lace Bobbinet (/wiki/Bobbinet) Leavers (/wiki/Leavers_machine) Pusher (/wiki/Pusher_machine) Barmen (/wiki/Barmen_lace_machine) Curtain Machine (/wiki/Nottingham_lace_curtain_machine) Chemical (/wiki/Chemical_lace) Raschel (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Stocking Frame (/wiki/Stocking_frame) Warp Knit (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Other handmade laces Metal laces (/wiki/Metal_lace) Lace knitting (/wiki/Lace_knitting) Macramé (/wiki/Macram%C3%A9) Tatting (/wiki/Tatting) Punto a groppo (/wiki/Punto_a_groppo) Sprang (/wiki/Sprang) Liturgical lace (/wiki/Liturgical_lace) Media related to Lace (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Lace) at Wikimedia Commons Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Clothing portal (/wiki/Portal:Clothing) This textile arts (/wiki/Textile_arts) article is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . You can help Wikipedia by expanding it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Youghal_lace&action=edit) . v t e NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6f54559974‐jdwbc Cached time: 20240721194832 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.388 seconds Real time usage: 0.518 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1772/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 56399/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 2035/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 16/100 Expensive parser function count: 6/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 50411/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.248/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 5835992/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 456.399 1 -total 29.41% 134.225 2 Template:Reflist 22.06% 100.688 1 Template:Lace_types 21.86% 99.777 3 Template:Navbox 12.75% 58.202 5 Template:Cite_web 12.19% 55.630 1 Template:Short_description 11.34% 51.734 1 Template:Morefootnotes 9.82% 44.821 1 Template:Ambox 9.10% 41.552 1 Template:ISBN 8.01% 36.577 1 Template:Commons_category Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:2020981-0!canonical and timestamp 20240721194832 and revision id 1220926359. 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Type of embroidered net lace Mary Thomas Ipswich on her wedding day, April 1901, Ipswich wearing a Limerick lace veil Limerick lace is a specific class of lace (/wiki/Lace) originating in Limerick (/wiki/Limerick) , Ireland, which was later produced throughout the country. It evolved from the invention of a machine which made net in 1808. Until John Heathcoat (/wiki/John_Heathcoat) invented a net-making machine in Devon in 1815, handmade net was a very expensive fabric. This meant cheap net became available to Irish lacemakers, particularly after 1823 when Heathcoat's patent expired. [1] (#cite_note-Ó_Cléirigh_1995-1) Limerick lace is a hybrid lace of embroidered needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) or crocheted lace on a machine made net base. It is a 'mixed lace' rather than a ‘true lace’, which would be entirely hand made. Limerick lace comes in two forms: tambour lace, which is made by stretching a net over a frame like a tambourine and drawing threads through it with a hook, and needlerun lace, which is made by using a needle to embroider on a net background. [2] (#cite_note-Potter_2014-2) The lace was noted for its variety of delicate fillings, as many as 47 different ones being found in one collar. [3] (#cite_note-3) History [ edit ] The Limerick lace industry was founded in 1829 by Charles Walker, a native of Oxfordshire (/wiki/Oxfordshire) . [2] (#cite_note-Potter_2014-2) The history of Limerick lace can be divided into two broad periods: the age of factory production 1829-c.1870 and the age of home and workshop production c.1870-1914. In 1829, Walker brought over 24 girls to teach lace-making in Limerick, drawn to the area by the availability of cheap, skilled female labour, and his business thrived. Charles Walker chose Limerick after touring various sites for the business. Limerick previously had a thriving Limerick glove (/w/index.php?title=Limerick_glove&action=edit&redlink=1) industry, but at this time had a large population of unemployed women with a tradition of factory work. [1] (#cite_note-Ó_Cléirigh_1995-1) Limerick lace was produced mainly in factories for the first forty years of its existence. Between the 1830s and 1860s, several lace factories operated in Limerick. The city’s second lace factory was established in 1835 by William Lloyd, initially at Clare Street and later in Abbey Court off Nicholas Street. In 1841, there were 400 women and girls working for him. In 1836, Leycester Greaves (1809-47), a Cork man opened a factory in Limerick. These lace factories employed almost 2,000 women and girls. [2] (#cite_note-Potter_2014-2) In the 1840s, Limerick lace making was introduced to a number of convents and convent-run institutions, both in Limerick and elsewhere. In 1850, lace making was introduced to the Good Shepherd Convent on Clare Street Limerick, but it was also made in other religious houses based in the city, including the Presentation Convent in Sexton Street and the Mercy Convent at Mount Saint Vincent, on O’Connell Avenue. Limerick lace was disseminated widely throughout Ireland by Catholic religious sisters, anxious to provide employment at the time of the Famine. They introduced it to several other convents, including religious houses in Youghal (/wiki/Youghal) , Kinsale (/wiki/Kinsale) , Dunmore East (/wiki/Dunmore_East) , Cahirciveen (/wiki/Cahersiveen) , and Kenmare (/wiki/Kenmare) . At the Good Shepherd Convent, the last lace making centre in Limerick, production ceased in 1990. In the 1860s and 1870s, the Limerick lace industry declined rapidly, due to the market being flooded by entirely machine made lace from chiefly from Nottingham (/wiki/Nottingham) . One reason for this period of decline was the realisation that design was necessary for beautiful lace. Following the Cork Industrial Exhibition of 1883, the President of Queen's College, Cork, wrote, "... only well-designed and finely executed lace [that] can hold its ground against machine lace." [1] (#cite_note-Ó_Cléirigh_1995-1) It was revived in the 1880s due to the work of Florence Vere O'Brien (/wiki/Florence_Vere_O%27Brien) (1858-1936) who established a Lace School in Limerick, which opened with eight pupils in May 1889. This ran until 1922. [1] (#cite_note-Ó_Cléirigh_1995-1) Another important promoter of Limerick lace during this period was Ishbel Hamilton-Gordon (/wiki/Ishbel_Hamilton-Gordon,_Marchioness_of_Aberdeen_and_Temair) , Countess of Aberdeen (/wiki/Aberdeen) (1847-1939) who established the Irish Industries Association in 1886 to encourage the 'Buy Irish' movement. This was integral to reviving Limerick lace as a traditional craft. In 1904, Mrs Maude Kearney (1873-1963), a daughter of James Hodkinson, founder of the famous firm of specialists in church decoration in Henry Street, Limerick, established a lace making business which she called the Thomond Lace Industry. Based in Thomondgate, Thomond Lace employed between fifty and eighty workers at the height of its success. After the Second World War, Limerick lace declined rapidly. Those who are known to have worn Limerick lace were Queen Victoria (/wiki/Queen_Victoria) , Edith Roosevelt (/wiki/Edith_Roosevelt) and Countess Markievicz (/wiki/Constance_Markievicz) . When John F. Kennedy (/wiki/John_F._Kennedy) visited Limerick in 1963 he was presented with a lace christening robe. This christening robe was created in the Good Shepherd Convent, Clare Street, Limerick. Generations of churchmen also wore Limerick lace and used lace to decorate their churches. Limerick Museum (/wiki/Limerick_Museum) holds the largest collection of Limerick lace in the country. A collection is also held in the Sisters of Mercy in Charleville (/wiki/Charleville,_County_Cork) , Co. Cork. Features [ edit ] Limerick lace is formed on a mesh using one or both of two techniques: Tambour (/wiki/Tambour_lace) – where chain stitch (/wiki/Chain_stitch) is created using a hook. Needlerun (/wiki/Needlerun_Net) – where stitches are darned onto the ground using a needle. Sometimes applique (/wiki/Appliqu%C3%A9) was used, including net appliqued onto net, which made a gossamer fabric. The types of lace made in the first factory at this time were fichus, blond lace (/wiki/Blonde_lace) trimming and grey lace (spotted), traced by tambour workers and filled by runners. Later in the 1840s the types of lace in production were floss work, satin stitch (/wiki/Satin_stitch) , Valencienne, two-stitch and moss work (/wiki/Basic_knitted_fabrics) , however the introduction of machine-made lace was impacting the quality of the running work. [1] (#cite_note-Ó_Cléirigh_1995-1) Modern revival [ edit ] Limerick lace is still produced on a very small commercial basis by individual lace makers such as Eileen Browne. A number of classes are held both within Limerick and throughout the country in an attempt to revive the practice. In 2014, Limerick City Council published a comprehensive history on Limerick lace called Amazing Lace , written by Dr Matthew Potter, Curator of Limerick Museum. In 2019, Limerick lace was added to the Irish National Inventory of Intangible Cultural Heritage. In 2019, Veronica Rowe, the granddaughter of Florence Vere O'Brien, handed over her lace collection on longterm loan to the Limerick Museum. In 2023, Grania McElligott donated the Maude Kearney lace collection to the Limerick Museum, adding to the existing Limerick lace collection. Since 2017, a series of exhibitions and conferences, both virtual and actual dedicated to Limerick lace have been held by Limerick Museum. In the same year, a group of lacemakers and lace enthusiasts came together under the name "Friends of Lace Limerick" to work with Limerick Museum on the preservation and cataloguing of lace artefacts in the museum collection and on the revival of Limerick lace traditions. Friends of Lace Limerick organised the Amazing Lace Symposium in collaboration with Limerick Museum in 2018, 2019 and again in 2024. For August 2025, Limerick Museum is planning a lace exhibition that will include the highlights of all its collections. References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c d e Ó Cléirigh, Nellie; Rowe, Veronica (1995). Limerick lace : a social history and a maker's manual . Gerrards Cross: C. Smythe. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0861403681 . OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 37490925 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/37490925) . ^ Jump up to: a b c Potter, Matthew (2014). Amazing lace : a history of the Limerick lace industry . Limerick. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780905700229 . OCLC (/wiki/OCLC_(identifier)) 910526333 (https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/910526333) . {{ cite book (/wiki/Template:Cite_book) }} : CS1 maint: location missing publisher ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_location_missing_publisher) ) ^ (#cite_ref-3) Earnshaw, Pat (1984). A Dictionary of Lace . Shire Publications. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-85263-700-4 . External links [ edit ] Website dedicated to Limerick lace maintained by Friends of Lace Limerick (https://Limericklace.ie) Media related to Limerick lace (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Limerick_lace) at Wikimedia Commons v t e Lace (/wiki/Lace) types Needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Punto in Aria (/wiki/Punto_in_Aria) Point de Venise (/wiki/Point_de_Venise) Point de France (/wiki/Point_de_France) Alençon (/wiki/Alen%C3%A7on_lace) Aemilia Ars (/w/index.php?title=Aemilia_Ars&action=edit&redlink=1) Argentan (/wiki/Argentan_lace) Argentella (/wiki/Argentella) Armenian (/wiki/Armenian_needlelace) Burano (https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merletto%20di%20Burano) Halas lace (/wiki/Halas_lace) Hedebo embroidery (/wiki/Hedebo_embroidery) Hollie Point (/wiki/Hollie_Point) Nallıhan (/wiki/Nall%C4%B1han_silk_needlelace) Point de Gaze (/wiki/Point_de_Gaze) Kenmare Lace (/wiki/Kenmare_lace) Ñandutí (/wiki/%C3%91andut%C3%AD) Oya (/wiki/Oya_(lace)) Pag (/wiki/Pag_lace) Puncetto Valsesiano (/w/index.php?title=Puncetto_Valsesiano&action=edit&redlink=1) Tenerife (/wiki/Tenerife_lace) Youghal (/wiki/Youghal_lace) Embroidery (/wiki/Embroidery) Buratto (/wiki/Buratto) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Reticella (/wiki/Reticella) Limerick Needlerun net (/wiki/Needlerun_net) Tambour (/wiki/Tambour_lace) Cutwork (/wiki/Cutwork) Broderie anglaise (/wiki/Broderie_anglaise) Carrickmacross (/wiki/Carrickmacross_lace) Lefkara lace (/wiki/Lefkara_lace) Saba lace (/wiki/Saba_lace) Bobbin lace (/wiki/Bobbin_lace) Mesh grounds (/wiki/Mesh_grounded_bobbin_lace) Torchon (/wiki/Torchon_lace) Freehand (/wiki/Freehand_lace) Arras (/wiki/Arras_lace) Bayeux (/wiki/Bayeux_lace) Beeralu (/w/index.php?title=Beeralu&action=edit&redlink=1) Blonde (/wiki/Blonde_lace) Bucks point (/wiki/Bucks_point_lace) Chantilly (/wiki/Chantilly_lace) Chefoo (/w/index.php?title=Chefoo_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Cogne (/wiki/Cogne_lace) Tønder (/wiki/T%C3%B8nder_lace) Beveren (/wiki/Beveren_lace) Lille (/wiki/Lille_lace) Binche (/wiki/Binche_lace) Flanders (/wiki/Flanders_lace) Paris (/wiki/Paris_lace) Valenciennes (/wiki/Valenciennes_lace) Antwerp (/wiki/Antwerp_lace) Mechlin (/wiki/Mechlin_lace) Ipswich (/wiki/Ipswich_lace) 's Gravenmoer (/w/index.php?title=%27s_Gravenmoer_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Mundillo (/wiki/Mundillo) Guipure (/wiki/Guipure) Greek (/wiki/Greek_lace) Genoese (/wiki/Genoese_lace) Bedfordshire (/wiki/Bedfordshire_lace) Cluny (/wiki/Cluny_lace) Dentelle du Puy (https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dentelle_du_Puy) Liptov (/wiki/Liptov) Maltese (/wiki/Maltese_lace) Yak lace (/wiki/Yak_lace) Part laces (/wiki/Part_lace) Honiton (/wiki/Honiton_lace) Bruges (/wiki/Bruges_lace) Brussels (/wiki/Brussels_lace) Rosaline (/wiki/Rosaline_lace) Point d'Angleterre (/wiki/Brussels_lace#Point_d'Angleterre) Tape (/wiki/Bobbin_tape_lace) Cantù (/w/index.php?title=Cant%C3%B9_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Milanese (/wiki/Milanese_bobbin_lace) Hinojosa (/w/index.php?title=Hinojosa_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Russian (/wiki/Russian_lace) Idrija (/wiki/Idrija_lace) Schneeberg (/wiki/Schneeberg_lace) Peasant (/w/index.php?title=Peasant_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Tape lace (/wiki/Tape_lace) Mezzopunto (/w/index.php?title=Mezzopunto&action=edit&redlink=1) Princess (/wiki/Princess_lace) Renaissance (/wiki/Renaissance_lace) Battenberg (/wiki/Battenberg_lace) Romanian point (/wiki/Romanian_point_lace) Branscombe (/wiki/Branscombe_lace) Crocheted lace (/wiki/Crocheted_lace) Broomstick lace (/wiki/Broomstick_lace) Irish crochet (/wiki/Irish_lace) Hairpin (/wiki/Hairpin_lace) Filet crochet (/wiki/Filet_crochet) Orvieto lace (/w/index.php?title=Orvieto_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Machine (/wiki/Lace_machine) -made lace Bobbinet (/wiki/Bobbinet) Leavers (/wiki/Leavers_machine) Pusher (/wiki/Pusher_machine) Barmen (/wiki/Barmen_lace_machine) Curtain Machine (/wiki/Nottingham_lace_curtain_machine) Chemical (/wiki/Chemical_lace) Raschel (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Stocking Frame (/wiki/Stocking_frame) Warp Knit (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Other handmade laces Metal laces (/wiki/Metal_lace) Lace knitting (/wiki/Lace_knitting) Macramé (/wiki/Macram%C3%A9) Tatting (/wiki/Tatting) Punto a groppo (/wiki/Punto_a_groppo) Sprang (/wiki/Sprang) Liturgical lace (/wiki/Liturgical_lace) Media related to Lace (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Lace) at Wikimedia Commons Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Clothing portal (/wiki/Portal:Clothing) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6f54559974‐jnv7k Cached time: 20240719064935 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.315 seconds Real time usage: 0.666 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 798/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 35495/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 810/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 14/100 Expensive parser function count: 4/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip 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Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Limerick_lace&oldid=1220369111 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Limerick_lace&oldid=1220369111) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Needle lace (/wiki/Category:Needle_lace) Limerick (city) (/wiki/Category:Limerick_(city)) Textile arts of Ireland (/wiki/Category:Textile_arts_of_Ireland) Hidden categories: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_location_missing_publisher) Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description matches Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_matches_Wikidata) Use dmy dates from April 2022 (/wiki/Category:Use_dmy_dates_from_April_2022) Commons category link from Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Commons_category_link_from_Wikidata)

Princess Elizabeth Stuart (/wiki/Elizabeth_of_Bohemia) , later Queen of Bohemia, wearing a reticella collar worked with the English royal coat of arms (/wiki/Coat_of_arms) , [1] (#cite_note-1) unknown artist, 1613, National Portrait Gallery, London (/wiki/National_Portrait_Gallery,_London) . Reticella (also reticello or in French point coupé or point couppe ) is a needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) dating from the 15th century and remaining popular into the first quarter of the 17th century. Reticella was originally a form of cutwork (/wiki/Cutwork) in which threads (/wiki/Thread_(yarn)) were pulled from linen (/wiki/Linen) fabric to make a "grid" on which the pattern was stitched, primarily using buttonhole stitch (/wiki/Buttonhole_stitch) . Later reticella used a grid made of thread rather than a fabric ground. Both methods resulted in a characteristic geometric design of squares and circles with various arched or scalloped borders. Books of patterns for reticella designed by Federico de Vinciolo (/wiki/Federico_de_Vinciolo) (France, 1587) and Cesare Vecellio (/wiki/Cesare_Vecellio) (Italy, probably from the 1590s but printed 1617) were popular and were frequently reprinted. Reticella developed into Punto in Aria (/wiki/Punto_in_Aria) . Gallery [ edit ] Italy, 16th-17th century - Needlepoint (Reticella) Lace Square - 1920.1098 - Cleveland Museum of Art Pattern for reticella or point couppe from Vinciolo's Les Singuliers et Nouveaux Pourtaicts , 1609 reprint of 1587 edition. Nouveaux pourtraicts de point coupé Sampler with needle lace and cutwork MET DP162636 Italy, Venice, 16th century - Needlepoint (Reticella) Lace Insertion - 1920.1073 - Cleveland Museum of Art English woman wearing a reticella lace collar and cuffs tinted with yellow starch, c. 1614-1618 Kraag van linnen met tussenzetsel en schulpstroken in reticella, BK-1978-461 Notes [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Ribeiro 2005, pp. 31-32 References [ edit ] Berry, Robin L.: "Reticella: a walk through the beginnings of Lace" (2004) (PDF) (http://www.bayrose.org/AandS/handouts/reticella_rev.pdf) Kliot, Jules and Kaethe: The Needle-Made Lace of Reticella , Lacis Publications, Berkeley, CA, 1994. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-916896-57-9 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-916896-57-9) . Montupet, Janine, and Ghislaine Schoeller: Lace: The Elegant Web , ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-8109-3553-8 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-8109-3553-8) . Ribeiro, Aileen (/wiki/Aileen_Ribeiro) : Fashion and Fiction: Dress in Art and Literature in Stuart England, Yale, 2005, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-300-10999-7 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-300-10999-7) Vinciolo, Federico: Renaissance Patterns for Lace, Embroidery and Needlepoint , Dover Books, 1971. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-486-22438-4 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-486-22438-4) External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Reticella (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Reticella) . Online facsimile of Vinciolo's (http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/vinciolo/) Les Singuliers et Nouveaux Pourtaicts Reticella - Virtual Museum of Textile Arts (http://www.museocaprai.it/en/tecnica_Reticello.htm) v t e Lace (/wiki/Lace) types Needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Punto in Aria (/wiki/Punto_in_Aria) Point de Venise (/wiki/Point_de_Venise) Point de France (/wiki/Point_de_France) Alençon (/wiki/Alen%C3%A7on_lace) Aemilia Ars (/w/index.php?title=Aemilia_Ars&action=edit&redlink=1) Argentan (/wiki/Argentan_lace) Argentella (/wiki/Argentella) Armenian (/wiki/Armenian_needlelace) Burano (https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merletto%20di%20Burano) Halas lace (/wiki/Halas_lace) Hedebo embroidery (/wiki/Hedebo_embroidery) Hollie Point (/wiki/Hollie_Point) Nallıhan (/wiki/Nall%C4%B1han_silk_needlelace) Point de Gaze (/wiki/Point_de_Gaze) Kenmare Lace (/wiki/Kenmare_lace) Ñandutí (/wiki/%C3%91andut%C3%AD) Oya (/wiki/Oya_(lace)) Pag (/wiki/Pag_lace) Puncetto Valsesiano (/w/index.php?title=Puncetto_Valsesiano&action=edit&redlink=1) Tenerife (/wiki/Tenerife_lace) Youghal (/wiki/Youghal_lace) Embroidery (/wiki/Embroidery) Buratto (/wiki/Buratto) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Reticella Limerick (/wiki/Limerick_lace) Needlerun net (/wiki/Needlerun_net) Tambour (/wiki/Tambour_lace) Cutwork (/wiki/Cutwork) Broderie anglaise (/wiki/Broderie_anglaise) Carrickmacross (/wiki/Carrickmacross_lace) Lefkara lace (/wiki/Lefkara_lace) Saba lace (/wiki/Saba_lace) Bobbin lace (/wiki/Bobbin_lace) Mesh grounds (/wiki/Mesh_grounded_bobbin_lace) Torchon (/wiki/Torchon_lace) Freehand (/wiki/Freehand_lace) Arras (/wiki/Arras_lace) Bayeux (/wiki/Bayeux_lace) Beeralu (/w/index.php?title=Beeralu&action=edit&redlink=1) Blonde (/wiki/Blonde_lace) Bucks point (/wiki/Bucks_point_lace) Chantilly (/wiki/Chantilly_lace) Chefoo (/w/index.php?title=Chefoo_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Cogne (/wiki/Cogne_lace) Tønder (/wiki/T%C3%B8nder_lace) Beveren (/wiki/Beveren_lace) Lille (/wiki/Lille_lace) Binche (/wiki/Binche_lace) Flanders (/wiki/Flanders_lace) Paris (/wiki/Paris_lace) Valenciennes (/wiki/Valenciennes_lace) Antwerp (/wiki/Antwerp_lace) Mechlin (/wiki/Mechlin_lace) Ipswich (/wiki/Ipswich_lace) 's Gravenmoer (/w/index.php?title=%27s_Gravenmoer_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Mundillo (/wiki/Mundillo) Guipure (/wiki/Guipure) Greek (/wiki/Greek_lace) Genoese (/wiki/Genoese_lace) Bedfordshire (/wiki/Bedfordshire_lace) Cluny (/wiki/Cluny_lace) Dentelle du Puy (https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dentelle_du_Puy) Liptov (/wiki/Liptov) Maltese (/wiki/Maltese_lace) Yak lace (/wiki/Yak_lace) Part laces (/wiki/Part_lace) Honiton (/wiki/Honiton_lace) Bruges (/wiki/Bruges_lace) Brussels (/wiki/Brussels_lace) Rosaline (/wiki/Rosaline_lace) Point d'Angleterre (/wiki/Brussels_lace#Point_d'Angleterre) Tape (/wiki/Bobbin_tape_lace) Cantù (/w/index.php?title=Cant%C3%B9_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Milanese (/wiki/Milanese_bobbin_lace) Hinojosa (/w/index.php?title=Hinojosa_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Russian (/wiki/Russian_lace) Idrija (/wiki/Idrija_lace) Schneeberg (/wiki/Schneeberg_lace) Peasant (/w/index.php?title=Peasant_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Tape lace (/wiki/Tape_lace) Mezzopunto (/w/index.php?title=Mezzopunto&action=edit&redlink=1) Princess (/wiki/Princess_lace) Renaissance (/wiki/Renaissance_lace) Battenberg (/wiki/Battenberg_lace) Romanian point (/wiki/Romanian_point_lace) Branscombe (/wiki/Branscombe_lace) Crocheted lace (/wiki/Crocheted_lace) Broomstick lace (/wiki/Broomstick_lace) Irish crochet (/wiki/Irish_lace) Hairpin (/wiki/Hairpin_lace) Filet crochet (/wiki/Filet_crochet) Orvieto lace (/w/index.php?title=Orvieto_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Machine (/wiki/Lace_machine) -made lace Bobbinet (/wiki/Bobbinet) Leavers (/wiki/Leavers_machine) Pusher (/wiki/Pusher_machine) Barmen (/wiki/Barmen_lace_machine) Curtain Machine (/wiki/Nottingham_lace_curtain_machine) Chemical (/wiki/Chemical_lace) Raschel (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Stocking Frame (/wiki/Stocking_frame) Warp Knit (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Other handmade laces Metal laces (/wiki/Metal_lace) Lace knitting (/wiki/Lace_knitting) Macramé (/wiki/Macram%C3%A9) Tatting (/wiki/Tatting) Punto a groppo (/wiki/Punto_a_groppo) Sprang (/wiki/Sprang) Liturgical lace (/wiki/Liturgical_lace) Media related to Lace (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Lace) at Wikimedia Commons Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Clothing portal (/wiki/Portal:Clothing) This textile arts (/wiki/Textile_arts) article is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . 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Embroidered Buratto, 16C, Florence Italy, 16th century - Chalice Veil with Monogram of Christ - 1920.1156 - Cleveland Museum of Art Buratto is an Italian needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) made by darning on a net. It is quite similar in appearance to filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) but with one important distinction—it is darned onto a woven net, rather than the knotted net used for filet. Buratto tends to also be heavier in appearance due to the woven nature of the netting used [1] (#cite_note-1) Band (Italy), 16th–17th century (CH 18457193) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Pat Earnshaw. Identification of Lace . Shire Publications. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-85263-484-6 . v t e Lace (/wiki/Lace) types Needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Punto in Aria (/wiki/Punto_in_Aria) Point de Venise (/wiki/Point_de_Venise) Point de France (/wiki/Point_de_France) Alençon (/wiki/Alen%C3%A7on_lace) Aemilia Ars (/w/index.php?title=Aemilia_Ars&action=edit&redlink=1) Argentan (/wiki/Argentan_lace) Argentella (/wiki/Argentella) Armenian (/wiki/Armenian_needlelace) Burano (https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merletto%20di%20Burano) Halas lace (/wiki/Halas_lace) Hedebo embroidery (/wiki/Hedebo_embroidery) Hollie Point (/wiki/Hollie_Point) Nallıhan (/wiki/Nall%C4%B1han_silk_needlelace) Point de Gaze (/wiki/Point_de_Gaze) Kenmare Lace (/wiki/Kenmare_lace) Ñandutí (/wiki/%C3%91andut%C3%AD) Oya (/wiki/Oya_(lace)) Pag (/wiki/Pag_lace) Puncetto Valsesiano (/w/index.php?title=Puncetto_Valsesiano&action=edit&redlink=1) Tenerife (/wiki/Tenerife_lace) Youghal (/wiki/Youghal_lace) Embroidery (/wiki/Embroidery) Buratto Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Reticella (/wiki/Reticella) Limerick (/wiki/Limerick_lace) Needlerun net (/wiki/Needlerun_net) Tambour (/wiki/Tambour_lace) Cutwork (/wiki/Cutwork) Broderie anglaise (/wiki/Broderie_anglaise) Carrickmacross (/wiki/Carrickmacross_lace) Lefkara lace (/wiki/Lefkara_lace) Saba lace (/wiki/Saba_lace) Bobbin lace (/wiki/Bobbin_lace) Mesh grounds (/wiki/Mesh_grounded_bobbin_lace) Torchon (/wiki/Torchon_lace) Freehand (/wiki/Freehand_lace) Arras (/wiki/Arras_lace) Bayeux (/wiki/Bayeux_lace) Beeralu (/w/index.php?title=Beeralu&action=edit&redlink=1) Blonde (/wiki/Blonde_lace) Bucks point (/wiki/Bucks_point_lace) Chantilly (/wiki/Chantilly_lace) Chefoo (/w/index.php?title=Chefoo_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Cogne (/wiki/Cogne_lace) Tønder (/wiki/T%C3%B8nder_lace) Beveren (/wiki/Beveren_lace) Lille (/wiki/Lille_lace) Binche (/wiki/Binche_lace) Flanders (/wiki/Flanders_lace) Paris (/wiki/Paris_lace) Valenciennes (/wiki/Valenciennes_lace) Antwerp (/wiki/Antwerp_lace) Mechlin (/wiki/Mechlin_lace) Ipswich (/wiki/Ipswich_lace) 's Gravenmoer (/w/index.php?title=%27s_Gravenmoer_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Mundillo (/wiki/Mundillo) Guipure (/wiki/Guipure) Greek (/wiki/Greek_lace) Genoese (/wiki/Genoese_lace) Bedfordshire (/wiki/Bedfordshire_lace) Cluny (/wiki/Cluny_lace) Dentelle du Puy (https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dentelle_du_Puy) Liptov (/wiki/Liptov) Maltese (/wiki/Maltese_lace) Yak lace (/wiki/Yak_lace) Part laces (/wiki/Part_lace) Honiton (/wiki/Honiton_lace) Bruges (/wiki/Bruges_lace) Brussels (/wiki/Brussels_lace) Rosaline (/wiki/Rosaline_lace) Point d'Angleterre (/wiki/Brussels_lace#Point_d'Angleterre) Tape (/wiki/Bobbin_tape_lace) Cantù (/w/index.php?title=Cant%C3%B9_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Milanese (/wiki/Milanese_bobbin_lace) Hinojosa (/w/index.php?title=Hinojosa_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Russian (/wiki/Russian_lace) Idrija (/wiki/Idrija_lace) Schneeberg (/wiki/Schneeberg_lace) Peasant (/w/index.php?title=Peasant_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Tape lace (/wiki/Tape_lace) Mezzopunto (/w/index.php?title=Mezzopunto&action=edit&redlink=1) Princess (/wiki/Princess_lace) Renaissance (/wiki/Renaissance_lace) Battenberg (/wiki/Battenberg_lace) Romanian point (/wiki/Romanian_point_lace) Branscombe (/wiki/Branscombe_lace) Crocheted lace (/wiki/Crocheted_lace) Broomstick lace (/wiki/Broomstick_lace) Irish crochet (/wiki/Irish_lace) Hairpin (/wiki/Hairpin_lace) Filet crochet (/wiki/Filet_crochet) Orvieto lace (/w/index.php?title=Orvieto_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Machine (/wiki/Lace_machine) -made lace Bobbinet (/wiki/Bobbinet) Leavers (/wiki/Leavers_machine) Pusher (/wiki/Pusher_machine) Barmen (/wiki/Barmen_lace_machine) Curtain Machine (/wiki/Nottingham_lace_curtain_machine) Chemical (/wiki/Chemical_lace) Raschel (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Stocking Frame (/wiki/Stocking_frame) Warp Knit (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Other handmade laces Metal laces (/wiki/Metal_lace) Lace knitting (/wiki/Lace_knitting) Macramé (/wiki/Macram%C3%A9) Tatting (/wiki/Tatting) Punto a groppo (/wiki/Punto_a_groppo) Sprang (/wiki/Sprang) Liturgical lace (/wiki/Liturgical_lace) Media related to Lace (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Lace) at Wikimedia Commons Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Clothing portal (/wiki/Portal:Clothing) This textile arts (/wiki/Textile_arts) article is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . 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Type of handmade lace This article needs additional citations for verification (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this article (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Tambour_lace) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Find sources: "Tambour lace" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Tambour+lace%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Tambour+lace%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Tambour+lace%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Tambour+lace%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Tambour+lace%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Tambour+lace%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( August 2019 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) lace from Lier (/wiki/Lier,_Belgium) Tambour lace refers to a family of lace made by stretching a fine net over a frame (/wiki/Embroidery_hoop) [1] (#cite_note-1) (the eponymous Tambour , from the French (/wiki/French_language) for drum) and creating a chain stitch (/wiki/Chain_stitch) , known as tambour, using a fine, pointed hook [2] (#cite_note-2) [3] (#cite_note-3) to reach through the net and draw the working thread through. The tambour embroidery (/wiki/Embroidery) technique became popular in western fashion during the 18th century, particularly fashionable in the early 19th century when applied to net fabrics, creating a look similar to lace. [4] (#cite_note-:0-4) History and origins [ edit ] Tambour chain-stitch embroidery was adapted from techniques used extensively in the East, namely Persia, India, and China, which had been practiced for many centuries. Tambour embroidery has its origins in Ari work of the Kutch region of Gujarat, India (/wiki/Gujarat) , and chain stitch (/wiki/Chain_stitch) practiced in China (/wiki/China) . [5] (#cite_note-:1-5) Tambour-worked waistcoat pocket detail, silk, c.1770-1800. MoMu Fashion Museum Antwerp, ST130C. Highly decorated textiles and garments of the in heavier weight fabrics featuring tambour-style embroidery, such as jackets, waistcoats, and gowns, were created for the export market in countries including India in the 18th century. Pieces in imitation began to be manufactured in the west at this time due to the rising popularity of imported garments, using adapted embroidery techniques . [6] (#cite_note-:2-6) Little is heard of tambour lace until the 1760s when translucent muslins from India, perhaps already tamboured with sprigs, were coming into fashion. The Ladies Waldegrave (/wiki/The_Ladies_Waldegrave) by Sir Joshua Reynolds (/wiki/Joshua_Reynolds) In the second half of the 18th and into the early 19th century, tambouring was a fashionable pastime for ladies of the French and English courts. [4] (#cite_note-:0-4) It was usually practiced on fine muslin, therefore becoming associated with lace, and was variously known as sewed muslin (/wiki/Sewed_muslin) and flowered muslin. In fashionable western dress, lightweight textiles made-up into garments and accessories were popular through the late 18th to the mid-19th century. Simple chain stitches of the tambour technique embellished clothing with cotton, silk, and silver guilt thread, as well as elements such as beads and sequins. [5] (#cite_note-:1-5) Floral motifs and trailing forms reflected the Asian origins of the embroidery style, though much of the tambour work produced for the western market was manufactured in areas such as western Scotland, for example. Lace (AM 1962.185-2) Those creating tambour-worked pieces in Britain, both in past-time and in industry for market sale, worked using a circular embroidery frame, adapting techniques from practitioners in India where traditionally tambour-work was created using only the hands. [6] (#cite_note-:2-6) Later examples of the tambour technique were created using machine, through technological development, with hand-made tambour-work, including tambour lace, being recognised as an artisanal craft. [5] (#cite_note-:1-5) Although tambour is often a surface embroidery, it is used in Limerick lace (/wiki/Limerick_lace) . [7] (#cite_note-7) See also [ edit ] Sewed muslin (/wiki/Sewed_muslin) Embroidery (/wiki/Embroidery) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Willem. "Tambour Frame" (https://trc-leiden.nl/trc-needles/tools/tensioning/tambour-frame) . trc-leiden.nl . Retrieved 2021-07-10 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Tambour embroidery" (https://www.britannica.com/art/tambour) . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Willem. "Tambour Lace" (https://trc-leiden.nl/trc-needles/regional-traditions/europe-and-north-america/lace-types/tambour-lace) . trc-leiden.nl . Retrieved 2021-07-10 . ^ Jump up to: a b Bentley, Grace Victoria. "The History and Development of Tambour Embroidery" (https://costumesociety.org.uk/blog/post/the-history-and-development-of-tambour-embroidery) . ^ Jump up to: a b c "Tambour: A (not so) brief History |" (https://londonembroideryschool.com/2023/06/30/tambour-a-not-so-brief-history/) . 2023-06-30 . Retrieved 2023-07-30 . ^ Jump up to: a b Waistcoat , 1740–1749 , retrieved 2023-07-30 ^ (#cite_ref-7) Pat Earnshaw (1984). A Dictionary of Lace . Shire Publications. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-85263-700-4 . v t e Lace (/wiki/Lace) types Needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Punto in Aria (/wiki/Punto_in_Aria) Point de Venise (/wiki/Point_de_Venise) Point de France (/wiki/Point_de_France) Alençon (/wiki/Alen%C3%A7on_lace) Aemilia Ars (/w/index.php?title=Aemilia_Ars&action=edit&redlink=1) Argentan (/wiki/Argentan_lace) Argentella (/wiki/Argentella) Armenian (/wiki/Armenian_needlelace) Burano (https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merletto%20di%20Burano) Halas lace (/wiki/Halas_lace) Hedebo embroidery (/wiki/Hedebo_embroidery) Hollie Point (/wiki/Hollie_Point) Nallıhan (/wiki/Nall%C4%B1han_silk_needlelace) Point de Gaze (/wiki/Point_de_Gaze) Kenmare Lace (/wiki/Kenmare_lace) Ñandutí (/wiki/%C3%91andut%C3%AD) Oya (/wiki/Oya_(lace)) Pag (/wiki/Pag_lace) Puncetto Valsesiano (/w/index.php?title=Puncetto_Valsesiano&action=edit&redlink=1) Tenerife (/wiki/Tenerife_lace) Youghal (/wiki/Youghal_lace) Embroidery (/wiki/Embroidery) Buratto (/wiki/Buratto) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Reticella (/wiki/Reticella) Limerick (/wiki/Limerick_lace) Needlerun net (/wiki/Needlerun_net) Tambour Cutwork (/wiki/Cutwork) Broderie anglaise (/wiki/Broderie_anglaise) Carrickmacross (/wiki/Carrickmacross_lace) Lefkara lace (/wiki/Lefkara_lace) Saba lace (/wiki/Saba_lace) Bobbin lace (/wiki/Bobbin_lace) Mesh grounds (/wiki/Mesh_grounded_bobbin_lace) Torchon (/wiki/Torchon_lace) Freehand (/wiki/Freehand_lace) Arras (/wiki/Arras_lace) Bayeux (/wiki/Bayeux_lace) Beeralu (/w/index.php?title=Beeralu&action=edit&redlink=1) Blonde (/wiki/Blonde_lace) Bucks point (/wiki/Bucks_point_lace) Chantilly (/wiki/Chantilly_lace) Chefoo (/w/index.php?title=Chefoo_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Cogne (/wiki/Cogne_lace) Tønder (/wiki/T%C3%B8nder_lace) Beveren (/wiki/Beveren_lace) Lille (/wiki/Lille_lace) Binche (/wiki/Binche_lace) Flanders (/wiki/Flanders_lace) Paris (/wiki/Paris_lace) Valenciennes (/wiki/Valenciennes_lace) Antwerp (/wiki/Antwerp_lace) Mechlin (/wiki/Mechlin_lace) Ipswich (/wiki/Ipswich_lace) 's Gravenmoer (/w/index.php?title=%27s_Gravenmoer_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Mundillo (/wiki/Mundillo) Guipure (/wiki/Guipure) Greek (/wiki/Greek_lace) Genoese (/wiki/Genoese_lace) Bedfordshire (/wiki/Bedfordshire_lace) Cluny (/wiki/Cluny_lace) Dentelle du Puy (https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dentelle_du_Puy) Liptov (/wiki/Liptov) Maltese (/wiki/Maltese_lace) Yak lace (/wiki/Yak_lace) Part laces (/wiki/Part_lace) Honiton (/wiki/Honiton_lace) Bruges (/wiki/Bruges_lace) Brussels (/wiki/Brussels_lace) Rosaline (/wiki/Rosaline_lace) Point d'Angleterre (/wiki/Brussels_lace#Point_d'Angleterre) Tape (/wiki/Bobbin_tape_lace) Cantù (/w/index.php?title=Cant%C3%B9_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Milanese (/wiki/Milanese_bobbin_lace) Hinojosa (/w/index.php?title=Hinojosa_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Russian (/wiki/Russian_lace) Idrija (/wiki/Idrija_lace) Schneeberg (/wiki/Schneeberg_lace) Peasant (/w/index.php?title=Peasant_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Tape lace (/wiki/Tape_lace) Mezzopunto (/w/index.php?title=Mezzopunto&action=edit&redlink=1) Princess (/wiki/Princess_lace) Renaissance (/wiki/Renaissance_lace) Battenberg (/wiki/Battenberg_lace) Romanian point (/wiki/Romanian_point_lace) Branscombe (/wiki/Branscombe_lace) Crocheted lace (/wiki/Crocheted_lace) Broomstick lace (/wiki/Broomstick_lace) Irish crochet (/wiki/Irish_lace) Hairpin (/wiki/Hairpin_lace) Filet crochet (/wiki/Filet_crochet) Orvieto lace (/w/index.php?title=Orvieto_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Machine (/wiki/Lace_machine) -made lace Bobbinet (/wiki/Bobbinet) Leavers (/wiki/Leavers_machine) Pusher (/wiki/Pusher_machine) Barmen (/wiki/Barmen_lace_machine) Curtain Machine (/wiki/Nottingham_lace_curtain_machine) Chemical (/wiki/Chemical_lace) Raschel (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Stocking Frame (/wiki/Stocking_frame) Warp Knit (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Other handmade laces Metal laces (/wiki/Metal_lace) Lace knitting (/wiki/Lace_knitting) Macramé (/wiki/Macram%C3%A9) Tatting (/wiki/Tatting) Punto a groppo (/wiki/Punto_a_groppo) Sprang (/wiki/Sprang) Liturgical lace (/wiki/Liturgical_lace) Media related to Lace (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Lace) at Wikimedia Commons Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Clothing portal (/wiki/Portal:Clothing) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6f54559974‐jdwbc Cached time: 20240719113558 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1] CPU time usage: 0.306 seconds Real time usage: 0.426 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 790/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 46387/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 461/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 14/100 Expensive parser function count: 4/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 35158/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.193/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 5391184/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 337.880 1 -total 33.80% 114.214 1 Template:Reflist 28.76% 97.178 3 Template:Navbox 28.69% 96.923 1 Template:Lace_types 26.52% 89.590 5 Template:Cite_web 18.02% 60.886 1 Template:Short_description 17.99% 60.787 1 Template:More_citations_needed 16.64% 56.210 1 Template:Ambox 10.63% 35.928 2 Template:Pagetype 4.43% 14.972 3 Template:Main_other Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:2023037-0!canonical and timestamp 20240719113558 and revision id 1184993685. Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Tambour_lace&oldid=1184993685 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Tambour_lace&oldid=1184993685) " Category (/wiki/Help:Category) : Needle lace (/wiki/Category:Needle_lace) Hidden categories: Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description is different from Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_is_different_from_Wikidata) Articles needing additional references from August 2019 (/wiki/Category:Articles_needing_additional_references_from_August_2019) All articles needing additional references (/wiki/Category:All_articles_needing_additional_references)

Tenerife lace Tenerife lace Type Lace (/wiki/Lace) Production method Needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) Production process Craft production (/wiki/Craft_production) Place of origin Lanzarote (/wiki/Lanzarote) and Tenerife (/wiki/Tenerife) , Spain A pink and green silk Tenerife needle lace piece Tenerife lace or "roseta canaria" is a needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) from Canary Islands. The first name comes from the fact that the lace made on the islands (Lanzarote and Tenerife) was exported from that island. The origin of this lace is uncertain and it is not known on which island the technique was born. History [ edit ] Tenerife (or Teneriffe) lace is a style of needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) that evolved from earlier styles of cutwork lace (/wiki/Cutwork) that generated medallions and rounded motifs in fabric by cutting and stitching groups of threads in existing fabric pieces. A characteristic example of this kind of cutwork can be seen in a sampler by Sarah Thral from 1644. [1] (#cite_note-1) Because of the nature of the frequently rounded structure with angular radiations, it was reminiscent of the sun and also acquired the name "sol lace". [2] (#cite_note-2) Eventually, the fabric skeleton was eliminated and a framework of threads established with a supporting structure of pins was used to create the foundation for the lace, and needle techniques were used to create the designs. 17th century Spanish Sol lace was a form of drawn thread work (/wiki/Drawn_thread_work) with circular patterns built up on a skeleton of woven threads. It is believed that this skill was transported to South America with European colonization. The name Sol lace was retained in Bolivia, Brazil, and Peru. [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) By the 19th century the way the lace was made had changed and there were differences between the methods used for the lace known as Tenerife in Spain and Ñandutí (/wiki/%C3%91andut%C3%AD) in Paraguay and other parts of South America. Examples of fragments (https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/215093) , collars (https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/213447) , handkerchiefs (https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/213448) made in this style can be found in museums today. In the early 20th century, women patented various devices to provide the framework for the structure of the threads, also referred to as hand looms. In 1901, Ada Sykes Dixon received a patent for her pin holder for lacework, which was assigned to William Briggs & Co Ltd. [4] (#cite_note-4) Augusta Proctor created one style described as a "Holder for Lacework" in 1903. [5] (#cite_note-5) An instruction book was also provided to accompany the Proctor wheel or square style rigid frames [6] (#cite_note-6) These items are now antique collectibles, and can sometimes be found available for purchase, such as these brass Briggs cushion version (https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/antique-teneriffe-lace-wheel-cushion-167324528) and plain examples (https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/vintage-shaped-brass-briggs-patent-465798287) . Similarly, Proctor square (https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/boxed-proctor-patent-square-making-24623999) or circular samples can still be located. Competing instruction books were published to help guide the crafter in the creation of various Teneriffe motifs and using different devices. [7] (#cite_note-7) The "Palma" style device [8] (#cite_note-8) advertised that no pins were required, and the handheld model had grooves for making the needle actions easier. In the 1930s - 1940s Tenerife lace was sometimes called Polka Spider Web Lace. [9] (#cite_note-9) In the 1950s, a Koppo Cushion style of lace pillow was devised and sold. [10] (#cite_note-10) This flexible and useful pillow style is still in use today, and can be recreated using instructions and descriptions in the patent guidelines (https://www.knitting-and.com/crafts-and-needlework/teneriffe/koppo-cushion/) . Sample of machine lace with Teneriffe lace motif In the later 20th century, a revival of interest in the history and style of Teneriffe lace led to the publication of several works about this lace with historical details and patterns. [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) [11] (#cite_note-11) [12] (#cite_note-12) [13] (#cite_note-13) How it is made [ edit ] In Tenerife lace, the wheel-like motifs are made separately. The thread is first taken to-and-fro across the fabric-covered circular cards, blocks, or cushions around pins stuck around the edge. Once these radial threads are in place the pattern is woven in with a needle. The finished motif is released by removing the pins and the motifs are later sewn together. [14] (#cite_note-guild-14) Machine made chemical lace (/wiki/Chemical_lace) samples of popular lace styles also included Teneriffe lace motifs. An extant sample was probably made on a Schiffli embroidery machine (/wiki/Schiffli_embroidery_machine) , and comes from a reference book put together by The Midland Lace Company of Nottingham (/wiki/Nottingham) who made both Leavers (/wiki/Leavers_machine) (Nottingham) Lace and Embroidered Laces on huge machines. The reference book would have been used as inspiration for lace designers and contained a wide range of styles and techniques. The embroidery would have been worked on a sacrificial backing, which could have been removed either by the application of heat, chemicals or water depending on the material used. Gallery [ edit ] References [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Tenerife lace (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Tenerife_lace) . ^ (#cite_ref-1) Thral, Sarah (1644). "Sampler with needle lace and cutwork" (https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/228305) . Metropolitan Museum of Art . 57.122.379. ^ (#cite_ref-2) Horton, Margaret (2020-10-26). "The Sun Laces" (https://pieceworkmagazine.com/the-sun-laces/) . PieceWork . Retrieved 2024-05-30 . ^ Jump up to: a b Stillwell, Alexandra (1980). The Technique of Teneriffe Lace (PDF) . Watertown MA: Charles T. Branford Company. p. 10. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0823150569 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Dixon, Ada Sykes (1901). "Holder for lacework" (https://patents.google.com/patent/US689860A/en) . Google Patents . Retrieved 2021-03-06 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Proctor, Augusta (1903). "Holder for Lacework" (https://patents.google.com/patent/US744610A/en) . Google Patents . Retrieved 2021-03-06 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Proctor Teneriffe Lace Wheel, Co (1903). Proctor Booklet of Designs and Instructions for Making Teneriffe and Filet Lace (PDF) . Viroqua, WI: Proctor Teneriffe Lace Wheel Co. ^ (#cite_ref-7) Earl & Co. (1904). Teneriffe Lace Designs and Instructions (PDF) . Philadelphia PA: Palma Manufacturing Co. ^ (#cite_ref-8) Sander, Charles (1904). "Lace-making stand or device" (https://patents.google.com/patent/US769492A/en) . Google Patents . Retrieved 2021-03-06 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) K. and K. Products (1939). Polka Spider Web Patterns (PDF) . ^ (#cite_ref-10) Koppo, Saito (1955). "Lacework holder" (https://patents.google.com/patent/US2750651A/en) . Google Patents . Retrieved 2021-03-06 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) Kliot, Jules and Kaethe (1986). Teneriffe Lace . Berkeley CA: Lacis Publications. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0916896225 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) Kaiser, Eunice Gifford (1981). Enjoy Making Teneriffe And Other Lace . Odessa, TX: Kaiser Crafts. ^ (#cite_ref-13) McCreary, Marilyn "Ahmee" (1999). More Teneriffe Lace . Pahrump, NV. {{ cite book (/wiki/Template:Cite_book) }} : CS1 maint: location missing publisher ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_location_missing_publisher) ) ^ (#cite_ref-guild_14-0) Leader, Jean E. "Lace Types: Tenerife and Nanduti Lace" (https://www.lacetypes.com/tenerife.html) . Retrieved 26 July 2022 . v t e Lace (/wiki/Lace) types Needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Punto in Aria (/wiki/Punto_in_Aria) Point de Venise (/wiki/Point_de_Venise) Point de France (/wiki/Point_de_France) Alençon (/wiki/Alen%C3%A7on_lace) Aemilia Ars (/w/index.php?title=Aemilia_Ars&action=edit&redlink=1) Argentan (/wiki/Argentan_lace) Argentella (/wiki/Argentella) Armenian (/wiki/Armenian_needlelace) Burano (https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merletto%20di%20Burano) Halas lace (/wiki/Halas_lace) Hedebo embroidery (/wiki/Hedebo_embroidery) Hollie Point (/wiki/Hollie_Point) Nallıhan (/wiki/Nall%C4%B1han_silk_needlelace) Point de Gaze (/wiki/Point_de_Gaze) Kenmare Lace (/wiki/Kenmare_lace) Ñandutí (/wiki/%C3%91andut%C3%AD) Oya (/wiki/Oya_(lace)) Pag (/wiki/Pag_lace) Puncetto Valsesiano (/w/index.php?title=Puncetto_Valsesiano&action=edit&redlink=1) Tenerife Youghal (/wiki/Youghal_lace) Embroidery (/wiki/Embroidery) Buratto (/wiki/Buratto) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Reticella (/wiki/Reticella) Limerick (/wiki/Limerick_lace) Needlerun net (/wiki/Needlerun_net) Tambour (/wiki/Tambour_lace) Cutwork (/wiki/Cutwork) Broderie anglaise (/wiki/Broderie_anglaise) Carrickmacross (/wiki/Carrickmacross_lace) Lefkara lace (/wiki/Lefkara_lace) Saba lace (/wiki/Saba_lace) Bobbin lace (/wiki/Bobbin_lace) Mesh grounds (/wiki/Mesh_grounded_bobbin_lace) Torchon (/wiki/Torchon_lace) Freehand (/wiki/Freehand_lace) Arras (/wiki/Arras_lace) Bayeux (/wiki/Bayeux_lace) Beeralu (/w/index.php?title=Beeralu&action=edit&redlink=1) Blonde (/wiki/Blonde_lace) Bucks point (/wiki/Bucks_point_lace) Chantilly (/wiki/Chantilly_lace) Chefoo (/w/index.php?title=Chefoo_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Cogne (/wiki/Cogne_lace) Tønder (/wiki/T%C3%B8nder_lace) Beveren (/wiki/Beveren_lace) Lille (/wiki/Lille_lace) Binche (/wiki/Binche_lace) Flanders (/wiki/Flanders_lace) Paris (/wiki/Paris_lace) Valenciennes (/wiki/Valenciennes_lace) Antwerp (/wiki/Antwerp_lace) Mechlin (/wiki/Mechlin_lace) Ipswich (/wiki/Ipswich_lace) 's Gravenmoer (/w/index.php?title=%27s_Gravenmoer_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Mundillo (/wiki/Mundillo) Guipure (/wiki/Guipure) Greek (/wiki/Greek_lace) Genoese (/wiki/Genoese_lace) Bedfordshire (/wiki/Bedfordshire_lace) Cluny (/wiki/Cluny_lace) Dentelle du Puy (https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dentelle_du_Puy) Liptov (/wiki/Liptov) Maltese (/wiki/Maltese_lace) Yak lace (/wiki/Yak_lace) Part laces (/wiki/Part_lace) Honiton (/wiki/Honiton_lace) Bruges (/wiki/Bruges_lace) Brussels (/wiki/Brussels_lace) Rosaline (/wiki/Rosaline_lace) Point d'Angleterre (/wiki/Brussels_lace#Point_d'Angleterre) Tape (/wiki/Bobbin_tape_lace) Cantù (/w/index.php?title=Cant%C3%B9_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Milanese (/wiki/Milanese_bobbin_lace) Hinojosa (/w/index.php?title=Hinojosa_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Russian (/wiki/Russian_lace) Idrija (/wiki/Idrija_lace) Schneeberg (/wiki/Schneeberg_lace) Peasant (/w/index.php?title=Peasant_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Tape lace (/wiki/Tape_lace) Mezzopunto (/w/index.php?title=Mezzopunto&action=edit&redlink=1) Princess (/wiki/Princess_lace) Renaissance (/wiki/Renaissance_lace) Battenberg (/wiki/Battenberg_lace) Romanian point (/wiki/Romanian_point_lace) Branscombe (/wiki/Branscombe_lace) Crocheted lace (/wiki/Crocheted_lace) Broomstick lace (/wiki/Broomstick_lace) Irish crochet (/wiki/Irish_lace) Hairpin (/wiki/Hairpin_lace) Filet crochet (/wiki/Filet_crochet) Orvieto lace (/w/index.php?title=Orvieto_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Machine (/wiki/Lace_machine) -made lace Bobbinet (/wiki/Bobbinet) Leavers (/wiki/Leavers_machine) Pusher (/wiki/Pusher_machine) Barmen (/wiki/Barmen_lace_machine) Curtain Machine (/wiki/Nottingham_lace_curtain_machine) Chemical (/wiki/Chemical_lace) Raschel (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Stocking Frame (/wiki/Stocking_frame) Warp Knit (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Other handmade laces Metal laces (/wiki/Metal_lace) Lace knitting (/wiki/Lace_knitting) Macramé (/wiki/Macram%C3%A9) Tatting (/wiki/Tatting) Punto a groppo (/wiki/Punto_a_groppo) Sprang (/wiki/Sprang) Liturgical lace (/wiki/Liturgical_lace) Media related to Lace (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Lace) at Wikimedia Commons Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Clothing portal (/wiki/Portal:Clothing) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6f54559974‐jhngs Cached time: 20240721080049 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.367 seconds Real time usage: 0.493 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1112/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 52332/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 549/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 14/100 Expensive parser function count: 3/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 73919/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.235/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 5134495/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 425.994 1 -total 38.45% 163.793 1 Template:Reflist 26.81% 114.226 3 Template:Navbox 26.67% 113.613 1 Template:Lace_types 25.62% 109.125 7 Template:Cite_web 12.84% 54.713 1 Template:Infobox_textile 12.44% 53.006 1 Template:Commons_category 12.25% 52.180 1 Template:Infobox 11.92% 50.769 1 Template:Sister_project 11.40% 48.558 1 Template:Side_box Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:2023060-0!canonical and timestamp 20240721080049 and revision id 1228634602. Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Tenerife_lace&oldid=1228634602 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Tenerife_lace&oldid=1228634602) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Needle lace (/wiki/Category:Needle_lace) Textile arts of Spain (/wiki/Category:Textile_arts_of_Spain) Hidden categories: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_location_missing_publisher) Commons category link from Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Commons_category_link_from_Wikidata)

Detail of an infant's bodice in Limerick lace Needlerun net is a family of laces created by using a needle to embroider on a net (/wiki/Net_(textile)) ground. [1] (#cite_note-1) Along with Tambour lace (/wiki/Tambour_lace) this became more popular with the advent of machine made netting. It is used in Limerick lace (/wiki/Limerick_lace) . References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Pat Earnshaw (1984). A Dictionary of Lace . Shire Publications. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-85263-700-4 . v t e Lace (/wiki/Lace) types Needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Punto in Aria (/wiki/Punto_in_Aria) Point de Venise (/wiki/Point_de_Venise) Point de France (/wiki/Point_de_France) Alençon (/wiki/Alen%C3%A7on_lace) Aemilia Ars (/w/index.php?title=Aemilia_Ars&action=edit&redlink=1) Argentan (/wiki/Argentan_lace) Argentella (/wiki/Argentella) Armenian (/wiki/Armenian_needlelace) Burano (https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merletto%20di%20Burano) Halas lace (/wiki/Halas_lace) Hedebo embroidery (/wiki/Hedebo_embroidery) Hollie Point (/wiki/Hollie_Point) Nallıhan (/wiki/Nall%C4%B1han_silk_needlelace) Point de Gaze (/wiki/Point_de_Gaze) Kenmare Lace (/wiki/Kenmare_lace) Ñandutí (/wiki/%C3%91andut%C3%AD) Oya (/wiki/Oya_(lace)) Pag (/wiki/Pag_lace) Puncetto Valsesiano (/w/index.php?title=Puncetto_Valsesiano&action=edit&redlink=1) Tenerife (/wiki/Tenerife_lace) Youghal (/wiki/Youghal_lace) Embroidery (/wiki/Embroidery) Buratto (/wiki/Buratto) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Reticella (/wiki/Reticella) Limerick (/wiki/Limerick_lace) Needlerun net Tambour (/wiki/Tambour_lace) Cutwork (/wiki/Cutwork) Broderie anglaise (/wiki/Broderie_anglaise) Carrickmacross (/wiki/Carrickmacross_lace) Lefkara lace (/wiki/Lefkara_lace) Saba lace (/wiki/Saba_lace) Bobbin lace (/wiki/Bobbin_lace) Mesh grounds (/wiki/Mesh_grounded_bobbin_lace) Torchon (/wiki/Torchon_lace) Freehand (/wiki/Freehand_lace) Arras (/wiki/Arras_lace) Bayeux (/wiki/Bayeux_lace) Beeralu (/w/index.php?title=Beeralu&action=edit&redlink=1) Blonde (/wiki/Blonde_lace) Bucks point (/wiki/Bucks_point_lace) Chantilly (/wiki/Chantilly_lace) Chefoo (/w/index.php?title=Chefoo_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Cogne (/wiki/Cogne_lace) Tønder (/wiki/T%C3%B8nder_lace) Beveren (/wiki/Beveren_lace) Lille (/wiki/Lille_lace) Binche (/wiki/Binche_lace) Flanders (/wiki/Flanders_lace) Paris (/wiki/Paris_lace) Valenciennes (/wiki/Valenciennes_lace) Antwerp (/wiki/Antwerp_lace) Mechlin (/wiki/Mechlin_lace) Ipswich (/wiki/Ipswich_lace) 's Gravenmoer (/w/index.php?title=%27s_Gravenmoer_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Mundillo (/wiki/Mundillo) Guipure (/wiki/Guipure) Greek (/wiki/Greek_lace) Genoese (/wiki/Genoese_lace) Bedfordshire (/wiki/Bedfordshire_lace) Cluny (/wiki/Cluny_lace) Dentelle du Puy (https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dentelle_du_Puy) Liptov (/wiki/Liptov) Maltese (/wiki/Maltese_lace) Yak lace (/wiki/Yak_lace) Part laces (/wiki/Part_lace) Honiton (/wiki/Honiton_lace) Bruges (/wiki/Bruges_lace) Brussels (/wiki/Brussels_lace) Rosaline (/wiki/Rosaline_lace) Point d'Angleterre (/wiki/Brussels_lace#Point_d'Angleterre) Tape (/wiki/Bobbin_tape_lace) Cantù (/w/index.php?title=Cant%C3%B9_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Milanese (/wiki/Milanese_bobbin_lace) Hinojosa (/w/index.php?title=Hinojosa_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Russian (/wiki/Russian_lace) Idrija (/wiki/Idrija_lace) Schneeberg (/wiki/Schneeberg_lace) Peasant (/w/index.php?title=Peasant_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) 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Creative works made with eyelets and other open-work embroidery techniques Boy's frock, white plain weave (/wiki/Plain_weave) cotton with broderie anglaise, probably English, c. 1855 , Los Angeles County Museum of Art (/wiki/Los_Angeles_County_Museum_of_Art) Broderie anglaise cuff (/wiki/Cuff) , detail from Broken Vows by Philip Hermogenes Calderon (/wiki/Philip_Hermogenes_Calderon) Broderie anglaise (French, "English embroidery", pronounced [bʁɔdʁi (/wiki/Help:IPA/French) ɑ̃ɡlɛz] (/wiki/Help:IPA/French) ) is a whitework (/wiki/Whitework_embroidery) needlework (/wiki/Needlework) technique incorporating features of embroidery (/wiki/Embroidery) , cutwork (/wiki/Cutwork) and needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) that became associated with England, due to its popularity there in the 19th century. History and technique [ edit ] Broderie anglaise is characterized by patterns composed of round or oval holes, called eyelets , which are cut out of the fabric, then bound with overcast (/wiki/Overcast_stitch) or buttonhole stitches (/wiki/Buttonhole_stitch) . [1] (#cite_note-brittanica-1) The patterns, often depicting flowers, leaves, vines, or stems, are further delineated by simple embroidery stitches made on the surrounding material. Later broderie anglaise also featured small patterns worked in satin stitch (/wiki/Satin_stitch) . [2] (#cite_note-Leslie2007-2) The technique originated in 16th century eastern Europe—probably in what is now the Czech Republic (/wiki/Czech_Republic) —but remains associated with England because of its popularity there during the 19th century. In the Victorian era (/wiki/Victorian_era) , broderie anglaise typically had open areas in many sizes. Transfers were used first to lay out the design on the material. In some cases, the holes were punched out with an embroidery stiletto before finishing the edge; in other cases, the fabric was embroidered first, and the hole was cut afterwards, with scissors. Beginning in the 1870s, the designs and techniques of broderie anglaise could be copied by the Swiss hand-embroidery (/wiki/Hand_embroidery_machine) and schiffli embroidery (/wiki/Schiffli_embroidery_machine) machines. Today, most broderie anglaise is created by machine. [2] (#cite_note-Leslie2007-2) Madeira work is a popular form of broderie anglaise associated with artisans on Madeira (/wiki/Madeira) , a group of Portuguese islands off the coast of Africa. [2] (#cite_note-Leslie2007-2) Similarities with Chikankari [ edit ] Chikankari (/wiki/Chikan_(embroidery)) , first recorded in the 16th century in Persia and India, involves intricate needlework with openwork and embroidery. Both techniques use specialised tools to punch holes in the fabric, allowing for the creation of intricate patterns. In Chikankari, a stitch called "Hool" exemplifies this, using a fine detached eyelet stitch where a hole is punched in the fabric and the threads are teased apart. Fashion and popular culture [ edit ] Broderie anglaise was extremely popular in England between 1840 and 1880 for women's underclothing and children's wear. The 1950s saw a resurgence in popularity, when it was frequently used to trim dresses and underwear. In 1959, Brigitte Bardot (/wiki/Brigitte_Bardot) wore a dress of gingham (/wiki/Gingham) and broderie anglaise for her wedding to Jacques Charrier (/wiki/Jacques_Charrier) . [3] (#cite_note-AU-3) In contemporary western fashion, it has been featured on a wide variety of modern garments such as shorts and even t-shirts. It has been characterized as "lace, but scaled-up" making it more robust and suited to daytime wear, and less associated with the fine, lacy look of lingerie. [4] (#cite_note-Cartner-Morley-4) References [ edit ] S.F.A. Caulfeild and B.C. Saward, The Dictionary of Needlework , 1885. Notes [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-brittanica_1-0) "broderie anglaise" (http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/80676/broderie-anglaise) . Encyclopædia Britannica Online . Encyclopædia Britannica Inc . Retrieved 13 September 2013 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Catherine Amoroso Leslie (1 January 2007). Needlework Through History: An Encyclopedia . Greenwood Publishing Group. pp. 34, 226, 58. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-313-33548-8 . Retrieved 13 September 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-AU_3-0) "Broderie Anglaise" (https://web.archive.org/web/20131020044230/http://www.embroiderersguildwa.org.au/Types%20of%20Embroidery/broderie.htm) . Embroidery Types . The Embroiderers' Guild of Western Australia. Archived from the original (http://www.embroiderersguildwa.org.au/Types%20of%20Embroidery/broderie.htm) on 20 October 2013 . Retrieved 13 September 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-Cartner-Morley_4-0) Cartner-Morley, Jess (March 30, 2012). "How to dress: broderie anglaise" (https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2012/mar/30/how-to-dress-broderie-anglaise) . The Guardian . Retrieved 13 September 2013 . External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Broderie Anglaise (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Broderie_Anglaise) . Broderie anglaise in TRC Needles (http://trc-leiden.nl/trc-needles/clothing-undergarment/regional-traditions/europe-and-north-america/embroideries/broderie-anglaise) 19th century English bonnet: decoration with broderie anglaise (http://www.britannica.com/eb/art-4630) , from Encyclopædia Britannica Online v t e Embroidery (/wiki/Embroidery) Styles Assisi (/wiki/Assisi_embroidery) Bargello (/wiki/Bargello_(needlework)) Berlin work (/wiki/Berlin_wool_work) Blackwork (/wiki/Blackwork) Broderie anglaise Broderie perse (/wiki/Broderie_perse) Candlewicking (/wiki/Candlewicking) Counted-thread (/wiki/Counted-thread_embroidery) Crewel (/wiki/Crewel_embroidery) Cross-stitch (/wiki/Cross-stitch) Cutwork (/wiki/Cutwork) Darning (/wiki/Darning) Drawn thread work (/wiki/Drawn_thread_work) Goldwork (/wiki/Goldwork_(embroidery)) Hardanger (/wiki/Hardanger_embroidery) Hedebo (/wiki/Hedebo_embroidery) Machine (/wiki/Machine_embroidery) Needlepoint (/wiki/Needlepoint) Quillwork (/wiki/Quillwork) 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Net lace originating in Ireland Carrickmacross lace Detail of Carrickmacross lace. (a) area of net, (b) area of muslin, (c) outlining, (d) needle-run decoration, (e) bars, (f) area where both net and muslin have been cut away, (g) 'pop', (h) 'twirl'. Carrickmacross lace is a form of lace (/wiki/Lace) that may be described as decorated net. A three-layer 'sandwich' is made consisting of the pattern (at the bottom), covered with, first, machine-made net and then fine muslin (/wiki/Muslin) , through which the pattern can be seen. A thick outlining thread is stitched down along the lines of the pattern, sewing net and fabric together. Loops of thread known as 'twirls' are also couched along the outer edge. The excess fabric is then cut away. Some of the net is then usually decorated further with needle-run stitches or small button-holed rings known as 'pops'. Occasionally bars of buttonhole stitches are worked over fabric and net before both are cut away. [1] (#cite_note-1) History [ edit ] Carrickmacross (/wiki/Carrickmacross) lace was introduced into Ireland in about 1820 by Mrs Grey Porter (/wiki/Margaret_Grey_Porter) of Donaghmoyne, who taught it to local women so that they could earn some extra money. Porter had been inspired by some examples of appliqué lace she had seen while on her honeymoon in Italy in 1816. [2] (#cite_note-2) Pink Ice gown by Sybil Connolly, Carrickmacross Lace over satin. The scheme was initially of limited success, and it was only after the Great Famine (/wiki/Great_Famine_(Ireland)) in 1846, when a lace school was set up by the managers of the Bath and Shirley estates at Carrickmacross as a means of helping their starving tenants, that the lace became known and found sales. [3] (#cite_note-3) The wedding dress of Lady Diana Spencer (/wiki/Wedding_dress_of_Lady_Diana_Spencer) featured a square of Carrickmacross lace that had belonged to Queen Mary (/wiki/Mary_of_Teck) sewn to the front. [4] (#cite_note-4) Irish Fashion designer, Sybil Connolly (24 January 1921 – 6 May 1998) used Irish lace types in her design, often layering the lace over silk or satin. [5] (#cite_note-5) In 2011, Kate Middleton (/wiki/Kate_Middleton) incorporated lace inspired by Carrickmacross lace, amongst others, into her wedding dress. [6] (#cite_note-6) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Lace Types: Decorated Nets" (https://www.lacetypes.com/decoratednets.html) . Leader, Jean E . Retrieved 26 July 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Handmade Irish Carrickmacross Lace - The Lace Gallery" (http://www.thelacegallery.com/) . The Lace Gallery . Retrieved 3 June 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Levey, Santina (1983). Lace: A History . London: Victoria and Albert Museum. p. 92. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 090128615X . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Vargas, Chanel (12 November 2020). "Breaking Down Every Detail on Princess Diana's Iconic Wedding Dress" (https://www.townandcountrymag.com/the-scene/weddings/g18205746/princess-diana-wedding-dress/) . Town & Country . Retrieved 20 January 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Hunt Museum, Pink Ice" (https://www.huntmuseum.com/explore/item/03a72978-e992-3895-8237-6caa22484832/?s%3Dpink+ice&pos=1) . Hunt Museum . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20220120122723/https://www.huntmuseum.com/explore/item/03a72978-e992-3895-8237-6caa22484832/?s%3Dpink+ice&pos=1) from the original on 20 January 2022 . Retrieved 20 January 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Handmade Irish Carrickmacross Lace - The Lace Gallery" (http://www.thelacegallery.com/) . The Lace Gallery . Retrieved 3 June 2018 . External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Carrickmacross lace (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Carrickmacross_lace) . v t e Lace (/wiki/Lace) types Needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Punto in Aria (/wiki/Punto_in_Aria) Point de Venise (/wiki/Point_de_Venise) Point de France (/wiki/Point_de_France) Alençon (/wiki/Alen%C3%A7on_lace) Aemilia Ars (/w/index.php?title=Aemilia_Ars&action=edit&redlink=1) Argentan (/wiki/Argentan_lace) Argentella (/wiki/Argentella) Armenian (/wiki/Armenian_needlelace) Burano (https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merletto%20di%20Burano) Halas lace (/wiki/Halas_lace) Hedebo embroidery (/wiki/Hedebo_embroidery) Hollie Point (/wiki/Hollie_Point) Nallıhan (/wiki/Nall%C4%B1han_silk_needlelace) Point de Gaze (/wiki/Point_de_Gaze) Kenmare Lace (/wiki/Kenmare_lace) Ñandutí (/wiki/%C3%91andut%C3%AD) Oya (/wiki/Oya_(lace)) Pag (/wiki/Pag_lace) Puncetto Valsesiano (/w/index.php?title=Puncetto_Valsesiano&action=edit&redlink=1) Tenerife (/wiki/Tenerife_lace) Youghal (/wiki/Youghal_lace) Embroidery (/wiki/Embroidery) Buratto (/wiki/Buratto) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Reticella (/wiki/Reticella) Limerick (/wiki/Limerick_lace) Needlerun net (/wiki/Needlerun_net) Tambour (/wiki/Tambour_lace) Cutwork (/wiki/Cutwork) Broderie anglaise (/wiki/Broderie_anglaise) Carrickmacross Lefkara lace (/wiki/Lefkara_lace) Saba lace (/wiki/Saba_lace) Bobbin lace (/wiki/Bobbin_lace) Mesh grounds (/wiki/Mesh_grounded_bobbin_lace) Torchon (/wiki/Torchon_lace) Freehand (/wiki/Freehand_lace) Arras (/wiki/Arras_lace) Bayeux (/wiki/Bayeux_lace) Beeralu (/w/index.php?title=Beeralu&action=edit&redlink=1) Blonde (/wiki/Blonde_lace) Bucks point (/wiki/Bucks_point_lace) Chantilly (/wiki/Chantilly_lace) Chefoo (/w/index.php?title=Chefoo_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Cogne (/wiki/Cogne_lace) Tønder (/wiki/T%C3%B8nder_lace) Beveren (/wiki/Beveren_lace) Lille (/wiki/Lille_lace) Binche (/wiki/Binche_lace) Flanders (/wiki/Flanders_lace) Paris (/wiki/Paris_lace) Valenciennes (/wiki/Valenciennes_lace) Antwerp (/wiki/Antwerp_lace) Mechlin (/wiki/Mechlin_lace) Ipswich (/wiki/Ipswich_lace) 's Gravenmoer (/w/index.php?title=%27s_Gravenmoer_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Mundillo (/wiki/Mundillo) Guipure (/wiki/Guipure) Greek (/wiki/Greek_lace) Genoese (/wiki/Genoese_lace) Bedfordshire (/wiki/Bedfordshire_lace) Cluny (/wiki/Cluny_lace) Dentelle du Puy (https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dentelle_du_Puy) Liptov (/wiki/Liptov) Maltese (/wiki/Maltese_lace) Yak lace (/wiki/Yak_lace) Part laces (/wiki/Part_lace) Honiton (/wiki/Honiton_lace) Bruges (/wiki/Bruges_lace) Brussels (/wiki/Brussels_lace) Rosaline (/wiki/Rosaline_lace) Point d'Angleterre (/wiki/Brussels_lace#Point_d'Angleterre) Tape (/wiki/Bobbin_tape_lace) Cantù (/w/index.php?title=Cant%C3%B9_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Milanese (/wiki/Milanese_bobbin_lace) Hinojosa (/w/index.php?title=Hinojosa_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Russian (/wiki/Russian_lace) Idrija (/wiki/Idrija_lace) Schneeberg (/wiki/Schneeberg_lace) Peasant (/w/index.php?title=Peasant_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Tape lace (/wiki/Tape_lace) Mezzopunto (/w/index.php?title=Mezzopunto&action=edit&redlink=1) Princess (/wiki/Princess_lace) Renaissance (/wiki/Renaissance_lace) Battenberg (/wiki/Battenberg_lace) Romanian point (/wiki/Romanian_point_lace) Branscombe (/wiki/Branscombe_lace) Crocheted lace (/wiki/Crocheted_lace) Broomstick lace (/wiki/Broomstick_lace) Irish crochet (/wiki/Irish_lace) Hairpin (/wiki/Hairpin_lace) Filet crochet (/wiki/Filet_crochet) Orvieto lace (/w/index.php?title=Orvieto_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Machine (/wiki/Lace_machine) -made lace Bobbinet (/wiki/Bobbinet) Leavers (/wiki/Leavers_machine) Pusher (/wiki/Pusher_machine) Barmen (/wiki/Barmen_lace_machine) Curtain Machine (/wiki/Nottingham_lace_curtain_machine) Chemical (/wiki/Chemical_lace) Raschel (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Stocking Frame (/wiki/Stocking_frame) Warp Knit (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Other handmade laces Metal laces (/wiki/Metal_lace) Lace knitting (/wiki/Lace_knitting) Macramé (/wiki/Macram%C3%A9) Tatting (/wiki/Tatting) Punto a groppo (/wiki/Punto_a_groppo) Sprang (/wiki/Sprang) Liturgical lace (/wiki/Liturgical_lace) Media related to Lace (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Lace) at Wikimedia Commons Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Clothing portal (/wiki/Portal:Clothing) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6f54559974‐69kdn Cached time: 20240720214442 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1] CPU time usage: 0.327 seconds Real time usage: 0.537 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1017/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 42633/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 1355/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 14/100 Expensive parser function count: 5/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 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Type of bobbin lace from Antwerp, Belgium Antwerp lace Antwerp pot lace (Potten Kant) Type Lace (/wiki/Lace) Production method Bobbin lace (/wiki/Bobbin_lace) Production process Craft production (/wiki/Craft_production) Place of origin Antwerp (/wiki/Antwerp) , Belgium Introduced 16th century Antwerp lace is a bobbin lace (/wiki/Bobbin_lace) distinguished by stylized flower pot motifs on a six point star ground (/wiki/Bobbin_lace_ground) . It originated in Antwerp (/wiki/Antwerp) , where in the 17th century an estimated 50% of the population of Antwerp (/wiki/Antwerp) was involved in lace making. Antwerp lace is also known, from its familiar repeated motif, as Pot Lace — in Dutch Pottenkant or Potten Kant . [1] (#cite_note-Dict-1) [2] (#cite_note-old-2) It is sometimes said that the flowers were a depiction of the Annunciation lilies (/wiki/Annunciation) ; [2] (#cite_note-old-2) however, the flowers were not limited to lilies. [3] (#cite_note-PDF-3) It is a continuous lace, meaning that it was made in one piece on a lace pillow (/wiki/Lace_pillow) , using the same threads in the pattern as in the ground, or réseau . [4] (#cite_note-P&P-4) [5] (#cite_note-Dict13-5) Antwerp lace is very similar to Mechlin lace (/wiki/Mechlin_lace) , which was also made in Antwerp. Antwerp lace is heavier and sturdier than Mechlin lace. [1] (#cite_note-Dict-1) It has a cordonnet , or a flat thread outlining the pattern, just as Mechlin lace does. The cordonnet was very strong and rather coarse. [3] (#cite_note-PDF-3) Antwerp lace was also similar to Binche lace (/wiki/Binche_lace) in its cordonnet . [2] (#cite_note-old-2) The réseau or ground for Antwerp lace varies from the same hexagonal ground as Mechlin lace (/wiki/Mechlin_lace) to a tessellation (/wiki/Tessellation) -pattern featuring a six-pointed star. History [ edit ] Antwerp lace was being made during the 16th century. When the Dutch closed the river Scheldt (/wiki/Scheldt) to shipping in 1585 due to Antwerp falling under Spanish control (/wiki/Fall_of_Antwerp_(1584-1585)) , the production of Antwerp lace halted. [6] (#cite_note-6) By 1698 Antwerp lace was known in England. [7] (#cite_note-Hist-7) It first became popular as an export to the Spanish Indies, however when that market died the lace survived in traditional dress among the peasants near Antwerp. It was used mainly for trimming their hats throughout the 18th and 19th century. [1] (#cite_note-Dict-1) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c Earnshaw, Pat (February 1999). A Dictionary of Lace . Dover Publications. p. 6. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-486-40482-X . Retrieved 2008-05-20 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Blum, Clara (June 2002). Old World Lace: A Concise Illustrated Guide . Dover. pp. 37–39. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-486-42150-3 . Retrieved 2008-05-20 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Mechlin and Antwerp" (https://web.archive.org/web/20040225004158/http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/articles/jm_lacer.pdf) (PDF) . Archived from the original (http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/articles/jm_lacer.pdf) (PDF) on 2004-02-25 . Retrieved 2005-06-13 . ^ (#cite_ref-P&P_4-0) Sharp, Mary (March 2007). Point and Pillow Lace . Herron Press. p. 147. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-4067-4562-7 . Retrieved 2008-05-20 . ^ (#cite_ref-Dict13_5-0) Earnshaw, Pat (February 1999). A Dictionary of Lace . Dover Publications. p. 13. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-486-40482-X . Retrieved 2008-05-20 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Deboeck, Guido (2007). Flemish DNA & Ancestry: History of Three Families Over . Dokus Publishing. p. 69. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-9725526-7-7 . Retrieved 2008-05-24 . ^ (#cite_ref-Hist_7-0) Palliser, Bury (/wiki/Fanny_Bury_Palliser) (November 1984). History of Lace . Dover Publications. pp. 115 (https://archive.org/details/bub_gb_viEMAAAAYAAJ/page/n130) –116. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-486-24742-2 . Retrieved 2008-05-20 . antwerp lace. v t e Lace (/wiki/Lace) types Needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Punto in Aria (/wiki/Punto_in_Aria) Point de Venise (/wiki/Point_de_Venise) Point de France (/wiki/Point_de_France) Alençon (/wiki/Alen%C3%A7on_lace) Aemilia Ars (/w/index.php?title=Aemilia_Ars&action=edit&redlink=1) Argentan (/wiki/Argentan_lace) Argentella (/wiki/Argentella) Armenian (/wiki/Armenian_needlelace) Burano (https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merletto%20di%20Burano) Halas lace (/wiki/Halas_lace) Hedebo embroidery (/wiki/Hedebo_embroidery) Hollie Point (/wiki/Hollie_Point) Nallıhan (/wiki/Nall%C4%B1han_silk_needlelace) Point de Gaze (/wiki/Point_de_Gaze) Kenmare Lace (/wiki/Kenmare_lace) Ñandutí (/wiki/%C3%91andut%C3%AD) Oya (/wiki/Oya_(lace)) Pag (/wiki/Pag_lace) Puncetto Valsesiano (/w/index.php?title=Puncetto_Valsesiano&action=edit&redlink=1) Tenerife (/wiki/Tenerife_lace) Youghal (/wiki/Youghal_lace) Embroidery (/wiki/Embroidery) Buratto (/wiki/Buratto) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Reticella (/wiki/Reticella) Limerick (/wiki/Limerick_lace) Needlerun net (/wiki/Needlerun_net) Tambour (/wiki/Tambour_lace) Cutwork (/wiki/Cutwork) Broderie anglaise (/wiki/Broderie_anglaise) Carrickmacross (/wiki/Carrickmacross_lace) Lefkara lace (/wiki/Lefkara_lace) Saba lace (/wiki/Saba_lace) Bobbin lace (/wiki/Bobbin_lace) Mesh grounds (/wiki/Mesh_grounded_bobbin_lace) Torchon (/wiki/Torchon_lace) Freehand (/wiki/Freehand_lace) Arras (/wiki/Arras_lace) Bayeux (/wiki/Bayeux_lace) Beeralu (/w/index.php?title=Beeralu&action=edit&redlink=1) Blonde (/wiki/Blonde_lace) Bucks point (/wiki/Bucks_point_lace) Chantilly (/wiki/Chantilly_lace) Chefoo (/w/index.php?title=Chefoo_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Cogne (/wiki/Cogne_lace) Tønder (/wiki/T%C3%B8nder_lace) Beveren (/wiki/Beveren_lace) Lille (/wiki/Lille_lace) Binche (/wiki/Binche_lace) Flanders (/wiki/Flanders_lace) Paris (/wiki/Paris_lace) Valenciennes (/wiki/Valenciennes_lace) Antwerp Mechlin (/wiki/Mechlin_lace) Ipswich (/wiki/Ipswich_lace) 's Gravenmoer (/w/index.php?title=%27s_Gravenmoer_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Mundillo (/wiki/Mundillo) Guipure (/wiki/Guipure) Greek (/wiki/Greek_lace) Genoese (/wiki/Genoese_lace) Bedfordshire (/wiki/Bedfordshire_lace) Cluny (/wiki/Cluny_lace) Dentelle du Puy (https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dentelle_du_Puy) Liptov (/wiki/Liptov) Maltese (/wiki/Maltese_lace) Yak lace (/wiki/Yak_lace) Part laces (/wiki/Part_lace) Honiton (/wiki/Honiton_lace) Bruges (/wiki/Bruges_lace) Brussels (/wiki/Brussels_lace) Rosaline (/wiki/Rosaline_lace) Point d'Angleterre (/wiki/Brussels_lace#Point_d'Angleterre) Tape (/wiki/Bobbin_tape_lace) Cantù (/w/index.php?title=Cant%C3%B9_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Milanese (/wiki/Milanese_bobbin_lace) Hinojosa (/w/index.php?title=Hinojosa_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Russian (/wiki/Russian_lace) Idrija (/wiki/Idrija_lace) Schneeberg (/wiki/Schneeberg_lace) Peasant (/w/index.php?title=Peasant_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Tape lace (/wiki/Tape_lace) Mezzopunto (/w/index.php?title=Mezzopunto&action=edit&redlink=1) Princess (/wiki/Princess_lace) Renaissance (/wiki/Renaissance_lace) Battenberg (/wiki/Battenberg_lace) Romanian point (/wiki/Romanian_point_lace) Branscombe (/wiki/Branscombe_lace) Crocheted lace (/wiki/Crocheted_lace) Broomstick lace (/wiki/Broomstick_lace) Irish crochet (/wiki/Irish_lace) Hairpin (/wiki/Hairpin_lace) Filet crochet (/wiki/Filet_crochet) Orvieto lace (/w/index.php?title=Orvieto_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Machine (/wiki/Lace_machine) -made lace Bobbinet (/wiki/Bobbinet) Leavers (/wiki/Leavers_machine) Pusher (/wiki/Pusher_machine) Barmen (/wiki/Barmen_lace_machine) Curtain Machine (/wiki/Nottingham_lace_curtain_machine) Chemical (/wiki/Chemical_lace) Raschel (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Stocking Frame (/wiki/Stocking_frame) Warp Knit (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Other handmade laces Metal laces (/wiki/Metal_lace) Lace knitting (/wiki/Lace_knitting) Macramé (/wiki/Macram%C3%A9) Tatting (/wiki/Tatting) Punto a groppo (/wiki/Punto_a_groppo) Sprang (/wiki/Sprang) Liturgical lace (/wiki/Liturgical_lace) Media related to Lace (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Lace) at Wikimedia Commons Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Clothing portal (/wiki/Portal:Clothing) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.canary‐6b76898595‐lmxsc Cached time: 20240719153542 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1] CPU time usage: 0.289 seconds Real time usage: 0.650 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 914/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 44291/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 735/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 14/100 Expensive parser function count: 3/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 37985/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.186/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 4897423/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 316.143 1 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Lebanese fashion designer (born 1964) This article may be written from a fan's point of view (/wiki/Wikipedia:Fancruft) , rather than a neutral point of view (/wiki/Wikipedia:Neutral_point_of_view) . Please clean it up (/wiki/Wikipedia:Cleanup) to conform to a higher standard (/wiki/Category:Wikipedia_style_guidelines) of quality, and to make it neutral in tone. ( June 2020 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Elie Saab Saab at his Spring 2012 Fashion Show Born ( 1964-07-04 ) 4 July 1964 (age 60) Beirut (/wiki/Beirut) , Lebanon (/wiki/Lebanon) Occupation Fashion designer (/wiki/Fashion_designer) Label Elie Saab (1998–present) Spouse Claudine Saab Elie Saab (Arabic: ايلي صعب) (born 4 July 1964) is a Lebanese fashion designer (/wiki/Fashion_design) . His main workshop is in Lebanon, with additional workshops in Milan (/wiki/Milan) and Paris. [1] (#cite_note-1) He started his business in the early 1980s and specialised in bridal couture (expensive fabrics, lace (/wiki/Lace) , gemstones, Swarovski (/wiki/Swarovski_Crystal) crystals, pearls (/wiki/Pearl) , detailed embroidery (/wiki/Embroidery) , etc.). [2] (#cite_note-Model_Directory_2013-2) He is the first Lebanese to be admitted to the fashion industry's governing body, Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture (/wiki/Chambre_Syndicale_de_la_Haute_Couture) . [3] (#cite_note-3) Saab appeared as a judge [4] (#cite_note-4) on Project Runway: Middle East (/wiki/Project_Runway_(Middle_East)) in 2016. [5] (#cite_note-BusinessofFashion_2017-5) As of March 2017, his couture collections are available in Paris, London, and Beirut, while his ready-to-wear clothes were in 160 retailers and his own boutiques. [5] (#cite_note-BusinessofFashion_2017-5) Kate Middleton (/wiki/Kate_Middleton) wore a Saab gown to the Royal Ascot (/wiki/Royal_Ascot) in 2019, marking the first occasion where Saab has dressed a British royal family member. [6] (#cite_note-6) Early life [ edit ] Elie Saab is the eldest son of a wood merchant who raised five children in Damour, a southern coastal suburb in Beirut (/wiki/Beirut) , Lebanon. [7] (#cite_note-7) Born to Maronite Catholic (/wiki/Maronite_Christianity_in_Lebanon) Lebanese [8] (#cite_note-8) parents in Beirut, Saab began sewing as a child. At the age of eight, his attention had turned to fashion. With his sisters serving as models, he would cut patterns out of newspaper and search his mother's closet for materials. [9] (#cite_note-9) Career [ edit ] The logo of Elie Saab's fashion house. Early years in fashion [ edit ] In 1981, Saab moved to Paris to study fashion. He later dropped out to return to Beirut and open his fashion label. In 1982, when he was 18 years old, he worked with a team of 15 employees. At first his atelier (/wiki/Atelier) specialized in bridal couture, making wedding dresses and gowns using expensive fabrics, lace, detailed embroidery (/wiki/Embroidery) , pearls, crystals and silk threads. [2] (#cite_note-Model_Directory_2013-2) In Beirut his reputation grew from dressing women in his neighborhood, and was soon enhanced by high society women sporting his designs. [10] (#cite_note-10) In 1997, Saab was the first non-Italian designer to become a member of the National Chamber of Italian Fashion (/wiki/National_Chamber_of_Italian_Fashion) , [11] (#cite_note-BoF-11) [12] (#cite_note-12) and in 1997 he showed his first collection outside Lebanon in Rome. [13] (#cite_note-13) In 1998, he started his ready-to-wear (/wiki/Ready-to-wear) line in Milan, as well as an accessories line. During the same year, Saab held a fashion show in Monaco, with Princess Stéphanie of Monaco (/wiki/Princess_St%C3%A9phanie_of_Monaco) in attendance. [14] (#cite_note-14) In 1999, one of his dresses thickly embroidered with emeralds (/wiki/Emerald) and diamonds was reportedly sold for $2.4 million. [15] (#cite_note-VanityFair_2011-15) Exposure internationally [ edit ] Magdalena Frackowiak (/wiki/Magdalena_Frackowiak) in Elie Saab at Paris Fashion Week (/wiki/Paris_Fashion_Week) F/W 2011 Saab became more well known in the United States after he became the first Lebanese designer to dress an Oscar (/wiki/Academy_Award) winner, Halle Berry (/wiki/Halle_Berry) , [16] (#cite_note-16) in 2002. [17] (#cite_note-fashion_about090323-17) In May 2003, the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture (/wiki/Chambre_Syndicale_de_la_Haute_Couture) invited him to become a member, [11] (#cite_note-BoF-11) and he showed his first haute couture (/wiki/Haute_couture) collection in Paris in July 2003. [ citation needed ] In 2003, he teamed up with Pronovias to create a bridal line, Elie by Elie Saab. [18] (#cite_note-18) The Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture inducted him as a membre correspondant in 2006. [5] (#cite_note-BusinessofFashion_2017-5) His first ready-to-wear (/wiki/Ready-to-wear) collection in Paris was the Spring-Summer 2006 collection. [ citation needed ] Saab, Tina Knowles (/wiki/Tina_Knowles) , House of Deréon (/wiki/House_of_Der%C3%A9on) , Giorgio Armani (/wiki/Giorgio_Armani) , Versace (/wiki/Gianni_Versace_S.p.A.) , and Herve Leger served as the designers for the outfits of the 2007 The Beyoncé Experience (/wiki/The_Beyonc%C3%A9_Experience) tour. [19] (#cite_note-book-19) In 2010, Saab dressed 102 celebrities for events overall, up from 40 in 2009. That year, he signed a 10-year licensing agreement with Beauté Prestige International for fragrance and cosmetics. [20] (#cite_note-20) The figure for 2011, up until March, was 88. [21] (#cite_note-21) In 2011, Madame Tussauds (/wiki/Madame_Tussauds) unveiled a wax statue of Kate Winslet (/wiki/Kate_Winslet) draped in the Elie Saab dress she wore at 63rd Primetime Emmy Awards (/wiki/63rd_Primetime_Emmy_Awards) . [22] (#cite_note-22) In 2011, Elie Saab launched his first fragrance [23] (#cite_note-23) Le Parfum . [ citation needed ] The Duchess of Cambridge (/wiki/Catherine,_Duchess_of_Cambridge) wore an Elie Saab gown while attending Royal Ascot (/wiki/Royal_Ascot) in 2019. This was the first time one of Saab's gowns was worn by a British royal. [24] (#cite_note-24) Recent dresses and collaborations [ edit ] In 2012, he worked with the Lebanese American University (http://sard.lau.edu.lb/programs/ba-fashion-design/) and London College of Fashion (/wiki/London_College_of_Fashion) to launch a bachelor's degree (/wiki/Bachelor%27s_degree) in fashion design. [5] (#cite_note-BusinessofFashion_2017-5) As of 2013, the brand had boutiques located in Beirut, Dubai, Doha, Paris, London, Geneva, Hong Kong, Moscow, New York City, and Mexico, with 100 retail outlets total. [2] (#cite_note-Model_Directory_2013-2) Saab's son, Elie Saab Jr, became brand director in 2013. [5] (#cite_note-BusinessofFashion_2017-5) Saab appeared as a judge on Project Runway: Middle East (/wiki/Project_Runway_(Middle_East)) in 2016. [5] (#cite_note-BusinessofFashion_2017-5) Between 2015 and 2017, the Elie Saab company opened a second Paris boutique and a new location in London's Mayfair (/wiki/Mayfair) , and in Manhattan (/wiki/Manhattan) . [5] (#cite_note-BusinessofFashion_2017-5) The Manhattan store that opened in October 2016 was his first in the country. [25] (#cite_note-Vogue_Couture_2016-25) As of March 2017, his couture collections are available in Paris, London, and Beirut, while his ready-to-wear clothes were in 160 retailers and his own boutiques. [5] (#cite_note-BusinessofFashion_2017-5) Also that month, the Elie Saab company opened a new Madison Avenue store. [26] (#cite_note-26) Elie Saab X Emaar [ edit ] The Lebanese fashion designer and the real estate development company Emaar reveal luxurious Elie Saab at Emaar Beachfront property in Dubai. The luxurious gated island property, Grand Bleu Tower at Emaar Beachfront, will include one, two and three-bedroom apartments as well as four-bedroom penthouses with interiors by Elie Saab. The residential tower boasts views of the Arabian Sea, The Palm and Dubai Marina (/wiki/Dubai_Marina) . [27] (#cite_note-27) Beirut explosion, 4 August 2020 [ edit ] Saab's main office and headquarters were left badly damaged by the explosion, his home nearby was completely destroyed. [28] (#cite_note-harpersbazaar.com-28) Despite this, the designer and his team planned to get back to work in order to finish the collection for the September show. [28] (#cite_note-harpersbazaar.com-28) In April 2021, Elie Saab launched an initiative that consists in donating a portion of sales to UNICEF's "Integrated Education and Well-Being for Vulnerable Girls in Lebanon Program." [29] (#cite_note-29) Notable clients and projects [ edit ] Stéphanie, Hereditary Grand Duchess of Luxembourg (/wiki/St%C3%A9phanie,_Hereditary_Grand_Duchess_of_Luxembourg) , wearing an Elie Saab bridal gown in 2012. He has been worn by Queen Rania of Jordan (/wiki/Queen_Rania_of_Jordan) , [30] (#cite_note-ftv090323-30) Victoria, Crown Princess of Sweden (/wiki/Victoria,_Crown_Princess_of_Sweden) , [31] (#cite_note-31) Princess Madeleine of Sweden (/wiki/Princess_Madeleine_of_Sweden) , [32] (#cite_note-32) Princess Maria-Olympia of Greece (/wiki/Princess_Maria-Olympia_of_Greece) [33] (#cite_note-33) and Stéphanie, Hereditary Grand Duchess of Luxembourg (/wiki/St%C3%A9phanie,_Hereditary_Grand_Duchess_of_Luxembourg) . [30] (#cite_note-ftv090323-30) In 1999, Queen Rania of Jordan (/wiki/Queen_Rania_of_Jordan) wore Elie Saab for her enthronement. [15] (#cite_note-VanityFair_2011-15) Countess Stéphanie and the Hereditary Grand Duke married in a civil ceremony (/wiki/Wedding_of_Guillaume,_Hereditary_Grand_Duke_of_Luxembourg,_and_Countess_St%C3%A9phanie_de_Lannoy) married in 2012, where the bride wore a dress designed by Elie Saab. [34] (#cite_note-34) Princess Claire of Luxembourg (/wiki/Princess_Claire_of_Luxembourg) also wore an Saab-designed dress on her wedding. [35] (#cite_note-35) First Lady of France Brigitte Macron (/wiki/Brigitte_Macron) wore an Elie Saab outfit of military coat and skinny trousers during a state visit to China. [36] (#cite_note-36) In 2023, Princess Rajwa Al-Hussein (/wiki/Princess_Rajwa_Al_Hussein) wore an Elie Saab gown for her wedding to Hussein, Crown Prince of Jordan (/wiki/Hussein,_Crown_Prince_of_Jordan) . Many attendees at the 64th Golden Globe Awards (/wiki/64th_Golden_Globe_Awards) in 2007 chose beaded or metallic dresses, such as Beyoncé (/wiki/Beyonc%C3%A9) 's sequinned (/wiki/Sequin) gold Elie Saab gown. [37] (#cite_note-Fashion_Nellis_2007-37) Halle Berry (/wiki/Halle_Berry) wore a burgundy gown by Saab (/wiki/Elie_Saab_net_dress_of_Halle_Berry) to the 2002 Academy Awards (/wiki/74th_Academy_Awards) when she won for Best Actress (/wiki/Academy_Award_for_Best_Actress) . [38] (#cite_note-38) In a poll by Debenhams (/wiki/Debenhams) published in The Daily Telegraph (/wiki/The_Daily_Telegraph) the dress was voted the 8th greatest red carpet gown of all time. [39] (#cite_note-Telegraph08-39) Cosmopolitan (/wiki/Cosmopolitan_(magazine)) magazine cited the dress as "one of the Best Oscar dresses of all time". [40] (#cite_note-40) Berry later wore another dress by Saab to the 2003 Oscars. [41] (#cite_note-41) Sandra Bullock (/wiki/Sandra_Bullock) wore Elie Saab at the 85th Academy Awards (/wiki/85th_Academy_Awards) in 2013 [42] (#cite_note-42) and at the world premiere of the movie Ocean's 8 (/wiki/Ocean%27s_8) in New York. [43] (#cite_note-43) [44] (#cite_note-44) In 2018, Rose Leslie (/wiki/Rose_Leslie) wore a floral embroidered Elie Saab wedding dress when she wed her Game of Thrones (/wiki/Game_of_Thrones) co-star Kit Harington. [45] (#cite_note-45) Jennifer Lopez (/wiki/Jennifer_Lopez) has worn Elie Saab on many occasions, including the 87th Academy Awards (/wiki/87th_Academy_Awards) , [46] (#cite_note-46) 45th Los Angeles Film Critics Association Awards (/wiki/2019_Los_Angeles_Film_Critics_Association_Awards) , [47] (#cite_note-47) Global Citizen (/wiki/Global_Citizen_Festival) ’s Vax Live: The Concert to Reunite the World , [48] (#cite_note-48) and Elie Saab’s Paris Haute Couture Show . [49] (#cite_note-49) Other notable clients of Saab's work have included Nicole Kidman (/wiki/Nicole_Kidman) , [50] (#cite_note-50) [51] (#cite_note-51) Eva Green (/wiki/Eva_Green) , Beyoncé (/wiki/Beyonc%C3%A9) , [30] (#cite_note-ftv090323-30) Aishwarya Rai (/wiki/Aishwarya_Rai) , [52] (#cite_note-hcn2011-4-52) Anna Kendrick (/wiki/Anna_Kendrick) , [53] (#cite_note-53) Christina Aguilera (/wiki/Christina_Aguilera) , [54] (#cite_note-54) Catherine Zeta-Jones (/wiki/Catherine_Zeta-Jones) , [30] (#cite_note-ftv090323-30) Angelina Jolie (/wiki/Angelina_Jolie) , [55] (#cite_note-55) Celine Dion (/wiki/Celine_Dion) , [56] (#cite_note-hcn2011-3-56) Elena Anaya (/wiki/Elena_Anaya) , [52] (#cite_note-hcn2011-4-52) Elsa Zylberstein (/wiki/Elsa_Zylberstein) , [52] (#cite_note-hcn2011-4-52) Heidi Klum (/wiki/Heidi_Klum) , [57] (#cite_note-57) Karlie Kloss (/wiki/Karlie_Kloss) , [58] (#cite_note-58) Dame Helen Mirren (/wiki/Helen_Mirren) , [59] (#cite_note-59) Emilia Clarke (/wiki/Emilia_Clarke) , [60] (#cite_note-60) Priyanka Chopra (/wiki/Priyanka_Chopra) , [61] (#cite_note-61) Sonam Kapoor (/wiki/Sonam_Kapoor) , [62] (#cite_note-62) Kendall Jenner (/wiki/Kendall_Jenner) , [63] (#cite_note-63) Taylor Swift (/wiki/Taylor_Swift) , [64] (#cite_note-64) [65] (#cite_note-65) Tiffany Trump (/wiki/Tiffany_Trump) [66] (#cite_note-66) and Ons Jabeur (/wiki/Ons_Jabeur) . [67] (#cite_note-67) [68] (#cite_note-68) Personal life [ edit ] Saab and his wife Claudine live with their family in Lebanon (/wiki/Lebanon) , and together have three sons. [25] (#cite_note-Vogue_Couture_2016-25) Controversies [ edit ] In January 2018, Saab received backlash on social media after his label's Instagram account posted a picture of Israeli actress Gal Gadot (/wiki/Gal_Gadot) wearing one of his dresses to the National Board of Review (/wiki/National_Board_of_Review) awards with the caption "A flawless Gal Gadot in Elie Saab Ready-to-Wear Spring Summer 2018 at the national board of review annual gala in New York". The post was later deleted. [69] (#cite_note-69) Filmography [ edit ] 2016: Project Runway: Middle East (/wiki/Project_Runway_(Middle_East)) - judge [5] (#cite_note-BusinessofFashion_2017-5) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "See Inside Elie Saab's Luxury Paris Apartment | Paris Design Agenda" (https://www.parisdesignagenda.com/inside-elie-saabs-luxury-paris-apartment/) . www.parisdesignagenda.com . Retrieved 15 December 2020 . ^ Jump up to: a b c "Elie Saab" (https://web.archive.org/web/20160422165340/http://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/designers/elie-saab/) . The Fashion Model Directory . Archived from the original (http://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/designers/elie-saab/) on 22 April 2016 . Retrieved 24 February 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Hamdan, Lubna (30 November 2017). "Interview: Elie Saab, king of the red carpet" (https://www.arabianbusiness.com/interviews/384668-interview-elie-saab-king-of-the-red-carpet) . Arabian Business (/wiki/Arabian_Business) . Retrieved 21 July 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) " (https://gulfnews.com/entertainment/tv/project-runway-me-launched-with-elie-saab-1.1891045) 'Project Runway ME' launched with Elie Saab" (https://gulfnews.com/entertainment/tv/project-runway-me-launched-with-elie-saab-1.1891045) . gulfnews.com . 5 September 2016 . Retrieved 24 June 2020 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h i Fernandez, Chantal (14 March 2017). "Elie Saab Sets a New Course in New York" (https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/elie-saab-sets-a-new-course-in-new-york) . The Business of Fashion . Retrieved 4 April 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Kate Middleton Wore This Arab Designer To The Royal Ascot" (https://en.vogue.me/fashion/kate-middleton-elie-saab-royal-ascot/) . Vogue Arabia . 19 June 2019 . Retrieved 24 June 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) MacFarquhar, Neil (5 May 2002). "Oscar night dress put Elie Saab on the map" (https://www.sfgate.com/living/article/Oscar-night-dress-put-Elie-Saab-on-the-map-2840494.php) . SFGATE . Retrieved 15 December 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) Putz, Ulrik (2 November 2007). "Libanons Designer Elie Saab: Mission Mode" (https://web.archive.org/web/20081014040718/http://www.spiegel.de/panorama/0,1518,514790,00.html) . Spiegel Online (/wiki/Spiegel_Online) (in German). Archived from the original (http://www.spiegel.de/panorama/0,1518,514790,00.html) on 14 October 2008 . Retrieved 24 February 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) MacFarquhar, Neil (27 April 2002). "An unlikely couturier from an unlikely 'Paris' (https://www.nytimes.com/2002/04/27/world/the-saturday-profile-an-unlikely-couturier-from-an-unlikely-paris.html) " (https://www.nytimes.com/2002/04/27/world/the-saturday-profile-an-unlikely-couturier-from-an-unlikely-paris.html) . The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . Retrieved 24 February 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "Elie Saab" (https://web.archive.org/web/20170219083837/http://www.vogue.com.au/celebrity/designers/elie+saab,347) . Vogue Australia (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) . 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Retrieved 27 June 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-66) "Tiffany Trump wears Elie Saab to marry Michael Boulos at Mar-a-Lago" (https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/tiffany-trump-wedding-dress-elie-saab-michael-boulos-b2224037.html) . The Independent . 13 November 2022 . Retrieved 14 November 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-67) "Ons Jabeur époustouflante pour Vogue à New York" (https://www.businessnews.com.tn/ons-jabeur-epoustouflante-pour-vogue-a-new-york,537,122769,3) . Business News . Retrieved 27 June 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-68) "Lorsque Elie Saab (https://www.tuniscope.com/article/354226/actualites/sport/ons-jabeur-493813204) gâte Ons Jabeur" (https://www.tuniscope.com/article/354226/actualites/sport/ons-jabeur-493813204) . Tuniscope . Retrieved 27 June 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-69) "Lebanese Designer Elie Saab Deletes Instagram Photo of 'Flawless' Gal Gadot Following Backlash" (https://www.haaretz.com/middle-east-news/elie-saab-deletes-picture-of-flawless-gal-gadot-following-backlash-1.5730382) . Haaretz (/wiki/Haaretz) . 12 January 2018 . Retrieved 21 July 2019 . External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Elie Saab (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Elie_Saab) . Official website (http://eliesaab.com) v t e Members of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (/wiki/F%C3%A9d%C3%A9ration_de_la_Haute_Couture_et_de_la_Mode) Members Adeline André (/wiki/Adeline_Andr%C3%A9) Alexandre Vauthier (/wiki/Alexandre_Vauthier) Alexis Mabille (/wiki/Alexis_Mabille) Bouchra Jarrar (/wiki/Bouchra_Jarrar) Chanel (/wiki/Chanel) Dior (/wiki/Dior) Frank Sorbier (/wiki/Frank_Sorbier) Giambattista Valli (/wiki/Giambattista_Valli) Givenchy (/wiki/Givenchy) Jean Paul Gaultier (/wiki/Jean_Paul_Gaultier) Julien Fournié (/wiki/Julien_Fourni%C3%A9) Maison Margiela (/wiki/Maison_Margiela) Maurizio Galante Schiaparelli (/wiki/Maison_Schiaparelli) Stéphane Rolland (/wiki/St%C3%A9phane_Rolland) Invited, foreign and guest members See: List of grands couturiers (/wiki/List_of_grands_couturiers) Portals (/wiki/Wikipedia:Contents/Portals) : Lebanon (/wiki/Portal:Lebanon) Fashion (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) International ISNI (https://isni.org/isni/0000000013145648) VIAF (https://viaf.org/viaf/5260748) WorldCat (https://id.oclc.org/worldcat/entity/E39PBJmy3JW9FTJrwh3RHMRBT3) National France (https://catalogue.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/cb15784551z) BnF data (https://data.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/cb15784551z) Germany (https://d-nb.info/gnd/1033700258) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6f54559974‐568rk Cached time: 20240720165532 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.812 seconds Real time usage: 1.001 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 5639/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 149273/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 4605/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 14/100 Expensive parser function count: 14/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 279152/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.532/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 9570073/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 908.162 1 -total 41.56% 377.456 1 Template:Reflist 23.54% 213.739 42 Template:Cite_web 16.44% 149.269 1 Template:Infobox_fashion_designer 9.13% 82.904 1 Template:Grands_couturiers 8.95% 81.272 1 Template:Navbox 7.52% 68.265 17 Template:Cite_news 7.00% 63.577 1 Template:Short_description 5.59% 50.737 1 Template:Fan_POV 5.30% 48.109 4 Template:Br_separated_entries Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:2035119-0!canonical and timestamp 20240720165532 and revision id 1218179809. Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Elie_Saab&oldid=1218179809 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Elie_Saab&oldid=1218179809) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Living people (/wiki/Category:Living_people) 1964 births (/wiki/Category:1964_births) Lebanese fashion designers (/wiki/Category:Lebanese_fashion_designers) Wedding dress designers (/wiki/Category:Wedding_dress_designers) Lebanese businesspeople in fashion (/wiki/Category:Lebanese_businesspeople_in_fashion) Lebanese brands (/wiki/Category:Lebanese_brands) Artists from Beirut (/wiki/Category:Artists_from_Beirut) Lebanese Maronites (/wiki/Category:Lebanese_Maronites) Arab Christians (/wiki/Category:Arab_Christians) Hidden categories: CS1 German-language sources (de) (/wiki/Category:CS1_German-language_sources_(de)) Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description matches Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_matches_Wikidata) EngvarB from July 2021 (/wiki/Category:EngvarB_from_July_2021) Use dmy dates from January 2021 (/wiki/Category:Use_dmy_dates_from_January_2021) Articles with a promotional tone from June 2020 (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_a_promotional_tone_from_June_2020) All articles with a promotional tone (/wiki/Category:All_articles_with_a_promotional_tone) Wikipedia articles with style issues from June 2020 (/wiki/Category:Wikipedia_articles_with_style_issues_from_June_2020) All articles with style issues (/wiki/Category:All_articles_with_style_issues) Articles with hCards (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_hCards) All articles with unsourced statements (/wiki/Category:All_articles_with_unsourced_statements) Articles with unsourced statements from March 2017 (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_unsourced_statements_from_March_2017) Commons category link from Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Commons_category_link_from_Wikidata) Official website different in Wikidata and Wikipedia (/wiki/Category:Official_website_different_in_Wikidata_and_Wikipedia) Articles with ISNI identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_ISNI_identifiers) Articles with VIAF identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_VIAF_identifiers) Articles with WorldCat Entities identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_WorldCat_Entities_identifiers) Articles with BNF identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_BNF_identifiers) Articles with BNFdata identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_BNFdata_identifiers) Articles with GND identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_GND_identifiers)

Sporting breeches For other uses, see Plus four (/wiki/Plus_four_(disambiguation)) . Australian golfer in plus fours, 1931 1930s beachwear Plus fours are breeches (/wiki/Breeches) or trousers that extend four inches (10 cm) below the knee (/wiki/Knee) (and thus four inches longer than traditional knickerbockers (/wiki/Knickerbockers_(clothing)) , hence the name). Knickerbockers have been traditionally associated with sporting attire (/wiki/Sportswear_(activewear)) since the 1860s. Plus fours were introduced in the 1920s and became popular among sportsmen—particularly golfers (/wiki/Golf) and game shooters—as they allowed more freedom of movement than knickerbockers. [1] (#cite_note-Plus-Fours-1) An "extravagant, careless style that fit right in with the looser fashions and lifestyles of the 1920s", plus fours were introduced to the United States by Edward, Prince of Wales (later Edward VIII (/wiki/Edward_VIII) ), during a trip in 1924. [1] (#cite_note-Plus-Fours-1) They were later brought back to prominence by the professional golfer Payne Stewart (/wiki/Payne_Stewart) , who wore them on the PGA Tour (/wiki/PGA_Tour) (active years 1982–1999). [2] (#cite_note-2) In 2008, plus fours were featured in André Benjamin (/wiki/Andr%C3%A9_3000) 's Benjamin Bixby clothing line, which was based on clothing worn by Ivy League (/wiki/Ivy_League) athletes in the 1930s. [3] (#cite_note-3) Less known are plus twos , plus sixes , and plus eights , of similar definitions, but accordingly varying lengths. [4] (#cite_note-4) References [ edit ] Sports portal (/wiki/Portal:Sports) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) ^ Jump up to: a b Fashion Encyclopedia , Plus fours (http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Modern-World-1919-1929/Plus-Fours.html) . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Golf Today , Payne Stewart, a champion in plus two's (http://www.golftoday.co.uk/news/yeartodate/news99/stewart3.html) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20161119101723/http://www.golftoday.co.uk/news/yeartodate/news99/stewart3.html) 2016-11-19 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Wilson, Eric. André Benjamin’s Clothing Line Includes Plus Fours and Club Sweaters (https://www.nytimes.com/2008/10/02/fashion/02BIXBY.html?_r=1&oref=slogin) , The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) , October 2, 2008. ^ (#cite_ref-4) Esquire's encyclopedia of 20th century men's fashions , by O. E. Schoeffler, William Gale, 1973, p.674 (https://books.google.com/books?id=EStUAAAAMAAJ&q=%22plus-twos%22) v t e Clothing (/wiki/Clothing) History (/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles) Industry (/wiki/Clothing_industry) Technology (/wiki/Clothing_technology) Terminology (/wiki/Clothing_terminology) Timeline (/wiki/Timeline_of_clothing_and_textiles_technology) Headwear (/wiki/Headgear) Beret (/wiki/Beret) Cap (/wiki/Cap) baseball (/wiki/Baseball_cap) flat (/wiki/Flat_cap) knit (/wiki/Knit_cap) Hat (/wiki/Hat) boater (/wiki/Boater) bowler (/wiki/Bowler_hat) fedora (/wiki/Fedora) homburg (/wiki/Homburg_hat) top (/wiki/Top_hat) Helmet (/wiki/Helmet) Hood (/wiki/Hood_(headgear)) Kerchief (/wiki/Kerchief) Mask (/wiki/Mask) Turban (/wiki/Turban) Veil (/wiki/Veil) Neckwear (/wiki/Neckwear) Bands (/wiki/Bands_(neckwear)) Choker (/wiki/Choker) Clerical collar (/wiki/Clerical_collar) Lavallière (/wiki/Pussy_bow) Neckerchief (/wiki/Neckerchief) Neck gaiter (/wiki/Neck_gaiter) Necktie 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(/wiki/Capri_pants) Cargo (/wiki/Cargo_pants) Chaps (/wiki/Chaps) Formal (/wiki/Formal_trousers) Go-to-hell (/wiki/Go-to-hell_pants) High water (/wiki/High-rise_(fashion)) Lowrise (/wiki/Low-rise_(fashion)) Jeans (/wiki/Jeans) Jodhpurs (/wiki/Jodhpurs) Overalls (/wiki/Overalls) Palazzo (/wiki/Palazzo_pants) Parachute (/wiki/Parachute_pants) Pedal pushers (/wiki/Pedal_pushers) Phat (/wiki/Phat_pants) Shorts (/wiki/Shorts) Bermuda (/wiki/Bermuda_shorts) dycling (/wiki/Cycling_shorts) dolphin (/wiki/Dolphin_shorts) gym (/wiki/Gym_shorts) hotpants (/wiki/Hotpants) running (/wiki/Running_shorts) Slim-fit (/wiki/Slim-fit_pants) Sweatpants (/wiki/Sweatpants) Windpants (/wiki/Windpants) Yoga pants (/wiki/Yoga_pants) Suits (/wiki/Suit) and uniforms (/wiki/Uniform) Ceremonial dress (/wiki/Ceremonial_dress) academic (/wiki/Academic_dress) court (/wiki/Court_dress) diplomatic (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) Folk (/wiki/Folk_costume) Jodhpuri (/wiki/Jodhpuri) Jumpsuit (/wiki/Jumpsuit) Military 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Strapless (/wiki/Strapless_dress) Wedding (/wiki/Wedding_dress) Wrap (/wiki/Wrap_dress) Casual House (/wiki/House_dress) Jumper (/wiki/Jumper_(dress)) Romper suit (/wiki/Romper_suit) Sheath (/wiki/Sheath_dress) Shirtdress (/wiki/Shirtdress) Slip (/wiki/Slip_dress) Sundress (/wiki/Sundress) Skirts (/wiki/Skirt) A-line (/wiki/A-line_(clothing)) Ballerina (/wiki/Ballerina_skirt) Denim (/wiki/Denim_skirt) Men's (/wiki/Men%27s_skirts) Miniskirt (/wiki/Miniskirt) Pencil (/wiki/Pencil_skirt) Prairie (/wiki/Prairie_skirt) Rah-rah (/wiki/Rah-rah_skirt) Sarong (/wiki/Sarong) Skort (/wiki/Skort) Tutu (/wiki/Tutu_(clothing)) Wrap (/wiki/Wrap_(clothing)) Underwear (/wiki/Underwear) and lingerie (/wiki/Lingerie) Top Bra (/wiki/Bra) Camisole (/wiki/Camisole) Undershirt (/wiki/Undershirt) Bottom Diaper (/wiki/Diaper) Training pants (/wiki/Training_pants) Leggings (/wiki/Leggings) Panties (/wiki/Panties) Plastic pants (/wiki/Plastic_pants) Slip (/wiki/Slip_(clothing)) Thong (/wiki/Thong) Underpants (/wiki/Underpants) boxer briefs (/wiki/Boxer_briefs) boxer shorts (/wiki/Boxer_shorts) briefs (/wiki/Briefs) Full Bodysuit, adult (/wiki/Bodysuit) Bodysuit, infant (/wiki/Infant_bodysuit) Long underwear (/wiki/Long_underwear) See-through (/wiki/See-through_clothing) Teddy (/wiki/Teddy_(garment)) Coats (/wiki/Coat) and outerwear (/wiki/List_of_outerwear) Overcoats (/wiki/Overcoat) Car (/wiki/Car_coat) Chesterfield (/wiki/Chesterfield_coat) Covert (/wiki/Covert_coat) Duffel (/wiki/Duffel_coat) Duster (/wiki/Duster_(clothing)) Greatcoat (/wiki/Greatcoat) British Warm (/wiki/British_Warm) Guards Coat (/wiki/Guards_Coat) Greca (/wiki/Greca_(clothing)) Over-frock (/wiki/Over-frock_coat) Riding (/wiki/Riding_coat) shadbelly (/wiki/Shadbelly) Trench (/wiki/Trench_coat) Ulster (/wiki/Ulster_coat) Cloak (/wiki/Cloak) opera (/wiki/Opera_cloak) Paletot (/wiki/Paletot) Pea (/wiki/Pea_coat) Polo (/wiki/Polo_coat) Raincoat (/wiki/Raincoat) Mackintosh (/wiki/Mackintosh) Suit coats Frock coat (/wiki/Frock_coat) bekishe (/wiki/Bekishe) rekel (/wiki/Rekel) Mess jacket (/wiki/Mess_jacket) Suit jacket (/wiki/Suit_jacket) Blazer (/wiki/Blazer) smoking (/wiki/Smoking_jacket) sports (/wiki/Sport_coat) Teba (/wiki/Teba_jacket) Tailcoat (/wiki/Tailcoat) dress (/wiki/White_tie#Dress_coat) morning (/wiki/Morning_dress#Morning_coat) Other Apron (/wiki/Apron) pinafore (/wiki/Pinafore) Blouson (/wiki/Blouson) Cagoule (/wiki/Cagoule) Cape (/wiki/Cape) ferraiolo (/wiki/Ferraiolo) Inverness (/wiki/Inverness_cape) Mantle (/wiki/Mantle_(clothing)) monastic (/wiki/Mantle_(monastic_vesture)) royal (/wiki/Mantle_(royal_garment)) mozzetta (/wiki/Mozzetta) pellegrina (/wiki/Pellegrina) Coatee (/wiki/Coatee) Cut-off (/wiki/Cut-off) Gilet (/wiki/Gilet) Jacket (/wiki/Jacket) down (/wiki/Down_jacket) flight (/wiki/Flight_jacket) goggle (/wiki/Goggle_jacket) Harrington (/wiki/Harrington_jacket) leather (/wiki/Leather_jacket) mackinaw (/wiki/Mackinaw_jacket) Norfolk (/wiki/Norfolk_jacket) safari 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(/wiki/Wallet) Watch (/wiki/Watch) Dress codes (/wiki/Dress_code) Western (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) Formal (/wiki/Formal_wear) morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) white tie (/wiki/White_tie) Semi-formal (/wiki/Semi-formal_wear) black lounge suit (/wiki/Black_lounge_suit) black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) Informal (/wiki/Informal_wear) Casual (/wiki/Casual_wear) Related Clothing fetish (/wiki/Clothing_fetish) Clothing swap (/wiki/Clothing_swap) Costume (/wiki/Costume) creature suit (/wiki/Creature_suit) Halloween costume (/wiki/Halloween_costume) Cross-dressing (/wiki/Cross-dressing) Environmental impact (/wiki/Environmental_impact_of_fashion) Fashion (/wiki/Fashion) haute couture (/wiki/Haute_couture) made-to-measure (/wiki/Made-to-measure) ready-to-wear (/wiki/Ready-to-wear) Fur clothing (/wiki/Fur_clothing) types (/wiki/List_of_types_of_fur) Fursuit (/wiki/Fursuit) Global trade of secondhand clothing (/wiki/Global_trade_of_secondhand_clothing) Laws (/wiki/Clothing_laws_by_country) List 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(/wiki/Golf_cart) Golf trolley (/wiki/Golf_trolley) Other Ball washer (/wiki/Ball_washer) Stimpmeter (/wiki/Stimpmeter) Related Driving range (/wiki/Driving_range) Golf course (/wiki/Golf_course) Golf instruction (/wiki/Golf_instruction) Pro shop (/wiki/Pro_shop) Category (/wiki/Category:Golf) Commons (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Golf) WikiProject (/wiki/Wikipedia:WikiProject_Golf) This clothing (/wiki/Clothing) -related article is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . 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Australian model and actress Gemma Ward Ward in San Francisco, 15 March 2007 Born Gemma Louise Ward ( 1987-11-03 ) 3 November 1987 (age 36) Perth, Western Australia (/wiki/Perth,_Western_Australia) , Australia (/wiki/Australia) Occupation(s) Model, actress Years active 2003–present Spouse David Letts Children 3 Modeling information Hair color Blonde (/wiki/Blonde_hair) Eye color Blue (/wiki/Eye_Color#Blue) Agency IMG Models (/wiki/IMG_Models) (New York, Paris, Milan, London, Sydney) [1] (#cite_note-1) Gemma Louise Ward (born 3 November 1987) is an Australian model and actress. Born in Perth (/wiki/Perth) , Western Australia, Ward was first scouted at the age of 14, and made her Australian Fashion Week (/wiki/Australian_Fashion_Week) debut aged 15. She later became one of the youngest models to appear on the cover of the American edition of Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) , subsequently appearing on the covers of both Teen Vogue (/wiki/Teen_Vogue) and Time (/wiki/Time_(magazine)) . Vogue Paris (/wiki/Vogue_Paris) would later declare her as one of the top 30 models of the 2000s. [2] (#cite_note-auto-2) Ward is widely considered to be a supermodel (/wiki/Supermodel) . [3] (#cite_note-3) [4] (#cite_note-4) Ward's first major acting appearance was in the 2008 Australian film The Black Balloon (/wiki/The_Black_Balloon_(film)) , and she has since also appeared in the films The Strangers (/wiki/The_Strangers_(2008_film)) (2008) and Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides (/wiki/Pirates_of_the_Caribbean:_On_Stranger_Tides) (2011). Early life [ edit ] Gemma Ward was born in Perth (/wiki/Perth) , Western Australia (/wiki/Western_Australia) , the second of four children of Gary Ward, an Australian doctor, and Claire, an English nurse. [5] (#cite_note-5) She has an older sister, Sophie (who also became a model), and younger twin brothers, Oscar and Henry. She was educated at the Presbyterian Ladies' College (/wiki/Presbyterian_Ladies%27_College,_Perth) and Shenton College (/wiki/Shenton_College) . [6] (#cite_note-Ok.au-6) Gemma was the family clown whose ambition was acting. [7] (#cite_note-60minutes-7) Her passion for acting was born in 1997, when she was cast as the witch in a school play of Hansel and Gretel (/wiki/Hansel_and_Gretel) at age ten. [8] (#cite_note-herald-8) Ward's brush with modelling was an accidental one. [7] (#cite_note-60minutes-7) She was discovered in 2002, at the age of fourteen, [8] (#cite_note-herald-8) while accompanying her friends to the Australian modelling competition Search for a Supermodel (/wiki/Search_for_a_Supermodel) . [6] (#cite_note-Ok.au-6) As she said in a Teen Vogue interview, she ended up being scouted herself: I had come straight from my auntie and uncle's farm, and I was wearing this big gray barn jacket with mud all over it. When the scout came up to me, I said, 'No, thank you.' They forged my mum's signature [for mandatory parental consent], and pushed me in front of the cameras. [6] (#cite_note-Ok.au-6) [9] (#cite_note-vogue-9) Ward did not win the competition, but her fragile, unique look, got the attention of a spotter from Vivien's Model Agency who saw her potential and made a show reel. [6] (#cite_note-Ok.au-6) [7] (#cite_note-60minutes-7) The show reel then landed on the desk of ace model scout David Cunningham from the New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) agency IMG (/wiki/IMG_Models) . "Look how confident she is. I mean, she looks like she's been doing this for years, and she's a 15-year-old kid walking in an alleyway in Perth [...] She's a supermodel (/wiki/Supermodel) , for sure," Cunningham said. [7] (#cite_note-60minutes-7) Career [ edit ] Modeling [ edit ] It girl, 2004–07 [ edit ] At 15, Ward made her Australian Fashion Week (/wiki/Australian_Fashion_Week) debut in May 2003. [10] (#cite_note-10) Within a year, she was in Italy (/wiki/Italy) meeting Prada (/wiki/Prada) designer Miuccia Prada (/wiki/Miuccia_Prada) . [8] (#cite_note-herald-8) Her look inspired a new generation of baby doll-like models such as Vlada Roslyakova (/wiki/Vlada_Roslyakova) , Heather Marks (/wiki/Heather_Marks) , Lily Cole (/wiki/Lily_Cole) , Caroline Trentini (/wiki/Caroline_Trentini) , Britni Stanwood (/wiki/Britni_Stanwood) , Lisa Cant. [9] (#cite_note-vogue-9) In September 2004, at only sixteen, Ward became the youngest model to appear on the cover of American Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) photographed by Steven Meisel (/wiki/Steven_Meisel) as one of the nine "Models of the Moment" with Daria Werbowy (/wiki/Daria_Werbowy) , Natalia Vodianova (/wiki/Natalia_Vodianova) , Gisele Bündchen (/wiki/Gisele_B%C3%BCndchen) , Isabeli Fontana (/wiki/Isabeli_Fontana) , Karolina Kurkova (/wiki/Karolina_Kurkova) , Liya Kebede (/wiki/Liya_Kebede) , Hana Soukupova (/wiki/Hana_Soukupova) and Karen Elson (/wiki/Karen_Elson) . [6] (#cite_note-Ok.au-6) [8] (#cite_note-herald-8) [11] (#cite_note-11) By the end of the year, Ward had appeared on the cover of Australian Vogue three times, British Vogue (/wiki/British_Vogue) , Vogue Paris (/wiki/Vogue_Paris) and Vogue Japan . [12] (#cite_note-12) Ward modeling in San Francisco, 15 March 2007 In February 2005, Ward appeared in no less than 20 New York runways (/wiki/New_York_Fashion_Week) for designers that included Vera Wang (/wiki/Vera_Wang) , Oscar de la Renta (/wiki/Oscar_de_la_Renta) and Klein (/wiki/Calvin_Klein) , and was rumored to earn about $20,000 per show. [13] (#cite_note-smh-13) And at 17, she became the famous face of Calvin Klein (/wiki/Calvin_Klein) 's Obsession Night perfume billboards – bumping Kate Moss (/wiki/Kate_Moss) out of a job in the process. [8] (#cite_note-herald-8) [13] (#cite_note-smh-13) Ward was reportedly paid $1.3 million (/wiki/Million) for the Calvin Klein campaign and counted similar deals with Burberry (/wiki/Burberry) and Valentino (/wiki/Valentino_SpA) among her model earnings. Ward additionally appeared in campaigns for Dolce & Gabbana (/wiki/Dolce_%26_Gabbana) , Balenciaga (/wiki/Balenciaga) , Hermès (/wiki/Herm%C3%A8s) and Dior (/wiki/Dior) . [13] (#cite_note-smh-13) Ward then posed for the April 2005 issue of Vogue Italia (/wiki/Vogue_Italia) , the May issue of Vogue Greece and the Spring 2005 cover of TIME Magazine's (/wiki/Time_(magazine)) Style & Design issue. [8] (#cite_note-herald-8) [13] (#cite_note-smh-13) In September 2005, Ward secured a coveted place on the inaugural cover of Vogue China (/wiki/Vogue_China) posing between Chinese models Du Juan (/wiki/Du_Juan) and Wang Wenqin and was shot by leading photographer Patrick Demarchelier (/wiki/Patrick_Demarchelier) . [14] (#cite_note-nine-14) [15] (#cite_note-15) A staggering 300,000 copies sold in the first three hours. [13] (#cite_note-smh-13) "She is every inch blue chip (/wiki/Blue_chip_(stock_market)) ," Vivien's agent Suzie Deveridge said. "Right now she's considered the No. 2 model in the world – and she isn't even 18 yet." [13] (#cite_note-smh-13) By 2006, Ward became Australia's brightest fashion star since Elle Macpherson (/wiki/Elle_Macpherson) . [7] (#cite_note-60minutes-7) At the age of 18, Ward became the first model ever to appear on the cover of Teen Vogue (/wiki/Teen_Vogue) magazine. [16] (#cite_note-16) [17] (#cite_note-teen-17) She was then featured in the Australian television program 60 Minutes (/wiki/60_Minutes_(Australian_TV_program)) as the " It Girl (/wiki/It_Girl) ". [7] (#cite_note-60minutes-7) She was earning $25,000 to stride the catwalk. [8] (#cite_note-herald-8) In Allure (/wiki/Allure_(magazine)) magazine (October 2006), Ward is described as "the model of the moment." Allure (/wiki/Allure_(magazine)) ' s creative director Paul Cavaco stated: "We went through a period that was very va-va-voom, but now the pendulum has swung back. Gemma is ethereal, not earthy." Photographer Michael Thompson (/wiki/Michael_Thompson_(photographer)) says, "She's an exotic blonde, the rarest of creatures." [18] (#cite_note-18) In May 2007, Ward again was featured on the cover of Vogue Italia (/wiki/Vogue_Italia) . In July, earning at an estimated total of $3 million in the past 12 months, Forbes (/wiki/Forbes) ranked her tenth on the list of the World's 15 Top-Earning Supermodels. [19] (#cite_note-19) In October 2007 Ward appeared on the cover of the very first issue of Vogue India , centred between Bollywood actresses Bipasha Basu (/wiki/Bipasha_Basu) and Priyanka Chopra (/wiki/Priyanka_Chopra) shot by photographer Patrick Demarchelier (/wiki/Patrick_Demarchelier) (who also photographed her in Vogue China ) and it became the second time Ward has appeared on an inaugural (/wiki/Inaugural) issue. Ward is only the third model, after Moss and Linda Evangelista (/wiki/Linda_Evangelista) to appear on two inaugural issues of Vogue . [14] (#cite_note-nine-14) Vogue Paris (/wiki/Vogue_Paris) declared her one of the top 30 models of the 2000s. [2] (#cite_note-auto-2) Retirement claims, 2008–13 [ edit ] In August 2008, reports surfaced that Ward was to retire from modelling to pursue acting. [20] (#cite_note-20) However, reports were quickly dismissed by Ward herself saying: "I was surprised to wake up this morning and read news of my own retirement. While I am taking some time off currently to rest and enjoy the company of friends and family, I am still very much a (excited and enthusiastic) working model and actress. I'm only 20, for God's sakes." [21] (#cite_note-21) Ward wouldn't walk down a runway after the spring 2008 shows for five years. Her final modeling job before her hiatus was an appearance on the cover of and inside the October 2008 issue of Spanish Marie Claire (/wiki/Marie_Claire) . [22] (#cite_note-22) Slightly over a year later, in November 2009, Ward's agent officially announced her retiring from the industry after her notable absence in the past few runway seasons. [17] (#cite_note-teen-17) Following a series of criticisms about her weight gain, a spokesperson from Vivien's Model Management released a statement, saying: "Gemma hasn't committed to returning to modeling at any time soon", adding Ward had the agency's full support. [23] (#cite_note-23) [24] (#cite_note-24) Again, Ward quickly dismissed the retirement claims, confirming that she would return to modeling in 2010. [25] (#cite_note-25) After avoiding the spotlight for three years, Ward opened up in an exclusive interview for The Sunday Telegraph (/wiki/The_Sunday_Telegraph_(Sydney)) on 30 January 2011. There she explained that her break from the media spotlight "was something spurred by Heath's death (/wiki/Heath_Ledger#Death) ". [26] (#cite_note-T-26) As for her career, she went on to say: In terms of me shying away from modelling, I'd like to clarify in some way that I was taking a break from many things in my life and obviously what people in the public see is that I'm pulling away from what is more 'public'. I didn't know how long it would take, I didn't know if it would solve anything, but I set out to really focus inside myself. [26] (#cite_note-T-26) Ward shot her first pictorial in years in Australia's Sunday Telegraph (/wiki/Sunday_Telegraph) Magazine for the edition of 6 February 2011. [27] (#cite_note-27) In 2013, Ward signed with IMG Models (/wiki/IMG_Models) Australia, prompting rumours of a modelling comeback. [28] (#cite_note-28) Return to the runway, 2014–present [ edit ] On 18 September 2014, Ward returned to the runway at the Spring/Summer 2015 Prada (/wiki/Prada) show during Milan Fashion Week. In December, Ward appeared on the 55th Anniversary cover of Australian Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) and along with a 40th-anniversary campaign for Country Road (/wiki/Country_Road_(retailer)) , was announced as the face of Prada's Spring/Summer 2015 campaign. [29] (#cite_note-29) She was also featured on the Spring/Summer 2015 cover of Pop (/wiki/Pop_(fashion_magazine)) . In April 2015, Ward made her runway return to Australian Fashion Week, opening for Ellery. [ citation needed ] Ward also became the Australian ambassador for Coca-Cola Life (/wiki/Coca-Cola_Life) . [30] (#cite_note-30) In September, Ward was on the cover of Russh (/wiki/Russh) . [31] (#cite_note-31) In January 2016, she again appeared on the cover of Australian Vogue , also appearing in a Spring/Summer 2016 campaign for Givenchy (/wiki/Givenchy) alongside models including Joan Smalls (/wiki/Joan_Smalls) , Natalia Vodianova (/wiki/Natalia_Vodianova) and fellow Australian Miranda Kerr (/wiki/Miranda_Kerr) . Ward then walked for Calvin Klein (/wiki/Calvin_Klein) menswear at Autumn/Winter Milan Fashion Week. [32] (#cite_note-32) [33] (#cite_note-33) In April, Ward was shot by Mario Testino (/wiki/Mario_Testino) as part of his guest edited edition of Australian Vogue , their first time working together since 2006. She interviewed Testino about the issue for The Daily Telegraph (/wiki/The_Daily_Telegraph_(Sydney)) . The same month, Ward posed for the cover of Australian InStyle (/wiki/InStyle) alongside close friends and fellow models Jessica Gomes (/wiki/Jessica_Gomes) and Nicole Trunfio (/wiki/Nicole_Trunfio) . In May, it was announced that Ward would appear as a guest judge on cycle 10 (/wiki/Australia%27s_Next_Top_Model_(cycle_10)) of Australia's Next Top Model (/wiki/Australia%27s_Next_Top_Model) . [34] (#cite_note-34) [35] (#cite_note-35) She was featured on the July cover of Elle (/wiki/Elle_(magazine)) Australia, a "lift-and flip" edition with 35 possible cover combinations of Ward. [36] (#cite_note-36) Ward also featured in a Fall/Winter campaign for David Webb (/wiki/David_Webb_(jeweler)) , shot by Inez and Vinoodh (/wiki/Inez_and_Vinoodh) . [37] (#cite_note-37) At the Spring 2019 shows, Ward walked for Proenza Schouler (/wiki/Proenza_Schouler) and Alexander McQueen (/wiki/Alexander_McQueen) . She then appeared in editorials for November's Allure and Vogue Italia and graced the October cover of Vogue Thailand, the December cover of Australian Harper's Bazaar (/wiki/Harper%27s_Bazaar) , and the March 2019 cover of Numéro (/wiki/Num%C3%A9ro) Tokyo. Ward also currently serves as the face of the Hardy Brothers (/wiki/Hardy_Brothers) and Zimmermann (/wiki/Zimmermann) . Acting [ edit ] Ward has long aspired to pursue acting, and drama is a passion that she has held since she was a child. She starred alongside Toni Collette (/wiki/Toni_Collette) and Rhys Wakefield (/wiki/Rhys_Wakefield) in Australian director Elissa Down's film The Black Balloon (/wiki/The_Black_Balloon_(film)) as the girlfriend of a boy whose brother has autism. [38] (#cite_note-38) The Black Balloon (/wiki/The_Black_Balloon_(film)) had its world premiere at the 58th Berlin International Film Festival (/wiki/58th_Berlin_International_Film_Festival) in Germany in February 2008, where it received a Crystal Bear (/wiki/Crystal_Bear) as the best feature-length film in the Generation 14plus category. [39] (#cite_note-Berlin_film_festival-39) She was also cast opposite Liv Tyler (/wiki/Liv_Tyler) in the suspense thriller The Strangers (/wiki/The_Strangers_(2008_film)) as one of the three masked intruders, "Dollface". [40] (#cite_note-40) In the summer of 2009, she took classes at the Stella Adler Studio of Acting (/wiki/Stella_Adler_Studio_of_Acting) in New York. After three years out of the spotlight, Ward made her international stage debut on 22 March 2011 for the Perth Theatre Company's production of The Ugly One . The play centres on the modern obsession with physical beauty (/wiki/Physical_beauty) and the need to resort to plastic surgery (/wiki/Plastic_surgery) . [26] (#cite_note-T-26) Her star power brought the PTC publicity and boosted ticket sales. Perth Now (/wiki/Perth_Now) 's Maria Noakes gave Ward positive reviews for her performance. [41] (#cite_note-pn-41) MTV Networks (/wiki/MTV_Networks) ' NextMovie.com named her one of the 'Breakout Stars to Watch for in 2011'. [42] (#cite_note-42) In the summer of 2011, Ward played Tamara, an antagonistic mermaid, in Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides (/wiki/Pirates_of_the_Caribbean:_On_Stranger_Tides) , opposite Johnny Depp (/wiki/Johnny_Depp) . [41] (#cite_note-pn-41) Personal life [ edit ] Ward briefly dated Heath Ledger (/wiki/Heath_Ledger) . They first met in November 2007 in New York, and Ward later said they had "developed a relationship and we started seeing each other." The two spent Christmas together in their home town of Perth before returning to New York where Ledger died less than a month later, on 22 January 2008. [26] (#cite_note-T-26) Ward and her partner David Letts have three children: a daughter (born December 2013), [43] (#cite_note-43) a son (born January 2017), [44] (#cite_note-44) and a second daughter (born June 2020). [45] (#cite_note-45) Ward is close friends with fellow Australian models Jessica Gomes (/wiki/Jessica_Gomes) and Nicole Trunfio (/wiki/Nicole_Trunfio) , with Gomes and Ward being bridesmaids at Trunfio's wedding. [ citation needed ] Filmography [ edit ] Movies [ edit ] Year Film Role Notes 2001 Pink Pyjamas (/wiki/Pink_Pyjamas) Heidi 2008 The Black Balloon (/wiki/The_Black_Balloon_(film)) Jackie Masters Nominated – Film Critics Circle of Australia Award for Best Actress (/wiki/Film_Critics_Circle_of_Australia) Nominated – Inside Film Award for Best Actress (/wiki/Inside_Film_Awards) 2008 The Strangers (/wiki/The_Strangers_(2008_film)) Dollface 2011 Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides (/wiki/Pirates_of_the_Caribbean:_On_Stranger_Tides) Tamara–First Mermaid 2013 The Great Gatsby (/wiki/The_Great_Gatsby_(2013_film)) Languid Girl 2016 The Caged Pillows Nocturne Short film Music videos [ edit ] " Daughters (/wiki/Daughters_(John_Mayer_song)) " by John Mayer (/wiki/John_Mayer) " M.I.L.F. $ (/wiki/M.I.L.F._$) " by Fergie (/wiki/Fergie_(singer)) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Gemma Ward - Model" (https://models.com/models/Gemma-Ward) . ^ Jump up to: a b Les 30 Mannequins des Années 2000 (http://www.vogue.fr/mode/en_vogue/091218-les-mannequins-des-annees-2000.aspx) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20120410211147/http://www.vogue.fr/mode/en-vogue/diaporama/les-30-mannequins-des-annees-2000/1662) 10 April 2012 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) Retrieved 20 January 2010 ^ (#cite_ref-3) "ELLE reveals the many faces of supermodel Gemma Ward" (http://www.viw.com.au/index.php/lifestyle/beauty/3955-elle-reveals-the-many-faces-of-supermodel-gemma-ward) . viw.com . 27 June 2016 . Retrieved 10 September 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Gemma Ward - The Baby Doll Supermodel" (http://scoutingboard.com/gemma-ward/) . scoutingboard.com . Retrieved 10 September 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Gemma Ward" (http://dailytelegraph.com.au/news/australian-model-gemma-ward-takes-on-new-role-as-the-face-of-country-road/story-fni0cx2y-1227084877235) . [ dead link ] ^ Jump up to: a b c d e "Gemma Ward" (https://web.archive.org/web/20110301044315/http://www.okmagazine.com.au/celebrities/gemma-ward.htm) . OK! (/wiki/OK!) . 18 June 2010. Archived from the original (http://www.okmagazine.com.au/celebrities/gemma-ward.htm) on 1 March 2011 . Retrieved 18 April 2011 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f Overton, Peter (24 September 2006). "The It-girl: Gemma Ward" (https://web.archive.org/web/20120320063140/http://sixtyminutes.ninemsn.com.au/stories/peteroverton/259454/the-it-girl-gemma-ward) . 60 Minutes (/wiki/60_Minutes) . Archived from the original (http://sixtyminutes.ninemsn.com.au/stories/peteroverton/259454/the-it-girl-gemma-ward) on 20 March 2012 . Retrieved 18 April 2011 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g Rule, Billy (6 February 2011). "Heath was one of a kind" (http://www.heraldsun.com.au/ipad/heath-was-one-of-a-kind/story-fn6ja7nc-1225998532932) . Herald Sun . Australia . Retrieved 18 April 2011 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Who's that girl?". New York: Teen Vogue. February 2006. pp. 108–115. ^ (#cite_ref-10) Huntington, Patty (14 April 2008). "Australian Fashion Week Sets Minimum Model Age" (http://www.wwd.com/fashion-news/australian-fashion-week-sets-minimum-model-age-457888) . WWD (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . Fairchild Fashion Group . Retrieved 10 February 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) September 2004 American Vogue ^ (#cite_ref-12) "The very model of super" (http://www.theage.com.au/articles/2004/10/29/1098992287790.html) . The Age. 30 October 2004 . Retrieved 6 July 2015 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f Byrnes, Holly (11 September 2005). "Million-dollar baby in vogue as China girl" (http://www.smh.com.au/news/fashion/milliondollar-baby-in-vogue-as-china-girl/2005/09/10/1125772732953.html) . smh (/wiki/The_Sydney_Morning_Herald) . Retrieved 19 April 2011 . ^ Jump up to: a b Hawke, Jack (26 October 2007). "Gemma Ward cover stirs up readers of Vogue India" (https://web.archive.org/web/20121005003808/http://news.ninemsn.com.au/entertainment/311148/gemma-ward-cover-stirs-up-readers-of-vogue-india) . ninemsn (/wiki/Ninemsn) . Archived from the original (http://news.ninemsn.com.au/entertainment/311148/gemma-ward-cover-stirs-up-readers-of-vogue-india) on 5 October 2012 . Retrieved 19 April 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) Goldkorn, Jeremy (11 August 2005). "Vogue China launches" (https://web.archive.org/web/20170809043300/http://www.danwei.org/media_and_advertising/vogue_china_launches.php) . danwei (/wiki/Danwei) . Archived from the original (http://www.danwei.org/media_and_advertising/vogue_china_launches.php) on 9 August 2017 . Retrieved 19 April 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) "Shooting Stars:How We Got That Picture" (http://www.teenvogue.com/industry/coverlook/2006/02/gemmaward) . Teen Vogue (/wiki/Teen_Vogue) . February 2006 . Retrieved 19 April 2011 . [ permanent dead link ] ^ Jump up to: a b Teen Vogue (9 November 2009). "Gemma Ward Quits Modeling" (http://www.teenvogue.com/style/blogs/fashion/2009/11/gemma-ward-quits-modeling.html) . Teen Vogue (/wiki/Teen_Vogue) . Retrieved 18 April 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) "That Girl: Gemma Ward?", Allure (/wiki/Allure_(magazine)) , October 2006 ^ (#cite_ref-19) Blakeley, Kiri. " The World's Top-Earning Models (https://archive.today/20090123234208/http://www.forbes.com/media/2007/07/19/models-media-bundchen-biz-media-cz_kb_0716topmodels.html) ", Forbes (/wiki/Forbes) , 16 July 2007. Retrieved on 20 December 2007. ^ (#cite_ref-20) "Is Gemma Ward Retiring?' (http://nymag.com/daily/fashion/2008/08/is_gemma_ward_retiring.html) " (http://nymag.com/daily/fashion/2008/08/is_gemma_ward_retiring.html) . The Cut: New York Magazine's Fashion Blog. 19 August 2008 . Retrieved 23 January 2009 . ^ (#cite_ref-21) "Gemma Ward Is NOT Retiring, But Still Not Walking This Season' (http://nymag.com/daily/fashion/2008/08/gemma_ward_is_not_retiring_but.html#ixzz0VyPifrmU) " (http://nymag.com/daily/fashion/2008/08/gemma_ward_is_not_retiring_but.html#ixzz0VyPifrmU) . The Cut: New York Magazine's Fashion Blog. 21 August 2008 . Retrieved 23 January 2009 . ^ (#cite_ref-22) Odell, Amy (23 October 2011). "Gemma Ward Models Again" (http://nymag.com/daily/fashion/2008/10/gemma_ward_models_again.html) . New York magazine (/wiki/New_York_magazine) . Retrieved 27 March 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-23) Davies, Claire (8 November 2009). "Gemma Ward quits modelling" (https://web.archive.org/web/20091110123619/http://www.news.com.au/story/0,27574,26320670-421,00.html) . The Sunday Telegraph . Archived from the original (http://www.news.com.au/story/0,27574,26320670-421,00.html) on 10 November 2009. ^ (#cite_ref-24) ninemsnstaff (8 November 2009). "Aussie star Gemma Ward quits modelling" (https://web.archive.org/web/20120121203812/http://news.ninemsn.com.au/entertainment/928350/aussie-star-gemma-ward-quits-modelling) . MSN News (Australia) . Archived from the original (http://news.ninemsn.com.au/entertainment/928350/aussie-star-gemma-ward-quits-modelling) on 21 January 2012 . Retrieved 24 November 2009 . ^ (#cite_ref-25) "Gemma Ward Wants to Keep Modeling and Acting, Go to Yale" (http://nymag.com/daily/fashion/2009/11/gemma_ward_wants_to_keep_model.html) . NYMag.com . 17 November 2009 . Retrieved 13 December 2009 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d Rule, Billy (30 January 2011). "The dark times united Heath and Gemma" (http://www.dailytelegraph.com.au/the-dark-times-united-heath-and-gemma/story-fn6e0s1g-1225996794891) . The Daily Telegraph . UK . Retrieved 27 March 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-27) Sherman, Lauren (7 February 2011). "Gemma Ward is Back: Images From Her First Magazine Spread in Years" (http://fashionista.com/2011/02/gemma-ward-is-back-pictures-from-her-first-magazine-spread-in-years/) . fashionista.com . Retrieved 27 March 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-28) Ongley, Hannah (9 January 2013). "Gemma Ward Signs with IMG Australia, Prompts Rumours of a Modelling Comeback" (http://www.thefashionspot.com/buzz-news/latest-news/178165-gemma-ward-signs-with-img-australia-prompts-rumours-of-a-modelling-comeback) . The Fashion Spot . Retrieved 10 January 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-29) Rota, Genevieve (3 January 2015). "Guess Which Aussie Beauty Just Landed a Huge Prada Campaign" (http://www.popsugar.com.au/fashion/Gemma-Ward-Face-Prada-SpringSummer-2015-Campaign-36416838#opening-slide) . POPSUGAR . Retrieved 4 March 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-30) "Gemma Ward scores Coca-Cola Life contract: 'Motherhood motivated me to go back to work' (http://www.dailytelegraph.com.au/entertainment/sydney-confidential/gemma-ward-scores-coca-cola-life-contract-motherhood-motivated-me-to-go-back-to-work/story-fni0cvc9-1227299088212) " (http://www.dailytelegraph.com.au/entertainment/sydney-confidential/gemma-ward-scores-coca-cola-life-contract-motherhood-motivated-me-to-go-back-to-work/story-fni0cvc9-1227299088212) . Daily Telegraph Australia. 11 April 2015 . Retrieved 6 July 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-31) "Exclusive: Gemma Ward Embodies All of Our Summer Dreams" (http://www.popsugar.com.au/beauty/Gemma-Ward-Beautiful-Editorial-Russh-Magazine-38005346) . Pop Sugar. 3 August 2015 . Retrieved 26 August 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-32) "Gemma Ward: 'I'm not hiding as much' (http://www.news.com.au/entertainment/books-magazines/magazines/gemma-ward-im-not-hiding-as-much/news-story/315381003148c935c5572e05b96c8f31) " (http://www.news.com.au/entertainment/books-magazines/magazines/gemma-ward-im-not-hiding-as-much/news-story/315381003148c935c5572e05b96c8f31) . news.com.au. 14 December 2015 . Retrieved 24 January 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-33) "Retired Aussie Gemma Ward makes a surprise appearance on runway in Milan... in menswear" (http://www.dailytelegraph.com.au/entertainment/sydney-confidential/retired-aussie-gemma-ward-makes-a-surprise-appearance-on-runway-in-milan-in-menswear/news-story/6f2b107b2d63b3f7fdcce7649747a16b) . The Daily Telegraph Australia. 18 January 2016 . Retrieved 24 January 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-34) "Mario Testino: Gemma Ward talks to the Vogue Australia guest editor" (http://www.dailytelegraph.com.au/lifestyle/sunday-style/mario-testino-gemma-ward-talks-to-the-vogue-australia-guest-editor/news-story/d29a38d8d51c801ca8c0142120bdea49) . The Daily Telegraph . 20 March 2016 . Retrieved 5 June 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-35) "ANTM guest mentoring role could be a sign of things to come for Gemma Ward" (http://www.heraldsun.com.au/entertainment/confidential/antm-guest-mentoring-role-could-be-a-sign-of-things-to-come-for-gemma-ward/news-story/12ba1c4d8eb46df2a58ea0841411fde3) . Herald Sun. 27 May 2016 . Retrieved 28 May 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-36) "The many faces of Gemma Ward" (http://www.smh.com.au/lifestyle/fashion/miranda-kerr-gifts-australias-next-top-model-contestants-divorce-depression-tonic-20160624-gprkrf.html#ixzz4CgyIJdlP) . Sydney Morning Herald . 25 June 2016 . Retrieved 26 June 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-37) "Gemma Ward, Tali Lennox Front David Webb Campaign" (http://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/gemma-ward-tali-lennox-david-webb-campaign-10503680/) . Women's Wear Daily. 9 August 2016 . Retrieved 12 August 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-38) "Gemma Ward: Hollywood's Next 'It' Girl?" (https://web.archive.org/web/20090413050316/http://www.observer.com/2007/gemma-ward-hollywoods-next-it-girl) . The New York Observer (/wiki/The_New_York_Observer) . Archived from the original (https://www.observer.com/2007/gemma-ward-hollywoods-next-it-girl) on 13 April 2009 . Retrieved 29 September 2008 . The New York Observer ^ (#cite_ref-Berlin_film_festival_39-0) Berlinale. "The Festival – Awards & Prizes – Prizes Generation" (http://www.berlinale.de/en/das_festival/preise_und_juries/preise_generation/index.html) . Retrieved 16 February 2008 . ^ (#cite_ref-40) "The Hollywood Reporter" (http://www.hollywoodreporter.com/thr/film/brief_display.jsp?vnu_content_id=1003086282) . [ dead link ] ^ Jump up to: a b Noakes, Maria (23 March 2011). "Gemma Ward can model, but can she act?" (http://www.perthnow.com.au/entertainment/perth-confidential/gemma-ward-can-model-but-can-she-act/story-e6frg30l-1226026685196) . Perth Now (/wiki/Perth_Now) . Retrieved 18 April 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-42) Evry, Max (5 January 2011). "25 Breakout Stars to Watch for in 2011" (https://web.archive.org/web/20110308082919/http://www.nextmovie.com/blog/breakout-movie-stars-of-2011/) . Next Movie. Archived from the original (http://www.nextmovie.com/blog/breakout-movie-stars-of-2011/) on 8 March 2011 . Retrieved 10 April 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-43) Huntington, Patty. "Gemma Ward and David Letts welcome a baby girl" (http://frockwriter.com/2013/12/gemma-ward-and-david-letts-welcome-their-little-angel) . frockwriter.co.au . Retrieved 7 December 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-44) Roffey, Emma (1 February 2017). "Gemma Ward welcomes her second child" (https://www.vogue.com.au/celebrity/news/gemma-ward-welcomes-her-second-child/news-story/319d5ed63981ad5d85dc93c272cf305c) . Vogue Australia . Retrieved 4 June 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-45) Malivindi, Diandra (15 June 2020). "Gemma Ward Announces the Arrival of Her Third Child" (https://web.archive.org/web/20200712072324/https://www.harpersbazaar.com.au/celebrity/gemma-ward-birth-third-child-20394) . Harper's Bazaar Australia . Archived from the original (https://www.harpersbazaar.com.au/celebrity/gemma-ward-birth-third-child-20394) on 12 July 2020. External links [ edit ] Gemma Ward (https://models.com/models/Gemma-Ward) on Models.com Gemma Ward (https://www.imdb.com/name/nm1801841/) at IMDb (/wiki/IMDb_(identifier)) Gemma Ward (https://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/models/gemma_ward/) at Fashion Model Directory (/wiki/Fashion_Model_Directory) Gemma Ward (http://www.thefrontrowview.com/search?q=gemma+ward) at The FrontRowView.com Wikimedia Commons has media related to Gemma Ward (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Gemma_Ward) . 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Military cap, worn by armored forces and other units Field Marshal Montgomery (/wiki/Bernard_Montgomery,_1st_Viscount_Montgomery_of_Alamein) wearing his black beret The black beret is a colour of beret (/wiki/Beret) , a type of headgear. It is commonly worn by paramilitaries and militaries around the world, particularly armored forces such as the British Army (/wiki/British_Army) 's Royal Tank Regiment (/wiki/Royal_Tank_Regiment) (RTR), the Royal Canadian Armoured Corps (/wiki/Royal_Canadian_Armoured_Corps) (RCAC), and Royal Australian Armoured Corps (/wiki/Royal_Australian_Armoured_Corps) (RAAC) and the Indian Army Armoured Corps (/wiki/Indian_Army_Armoured_Corps) and Indian Border Security Force (/wiki/Border_Security_Force) . Notable non-armored military units to wear the black beret include the non-military police and non-special forces elements of the Irish Defence Forces (/wiki/Irish_Defence_Forces) , MOD Guard Service (/wiki/Ministry_of_Defence_Guard_Service) , Russian Naval Infantry (/wiki/Russian_Naval_Infantry) (and formerly Soviet (/wiki/Soviet_Union) ) and Russian (/wiki/Russia) OMON (/wiki/OMON) units, the United States Air Force (/wiki/United_States_Air_Force) (USAF) Tactical Air Control Party (/wiki/Tactical_Air_Control_Party) (TACP), Philippine National Police-Special Action Force (/wiki/Philippine_National_Police-Special_Action_Force) (PNP-SAF) members, and the Royal Canadian Navy (/wiki/Royal_Canadian_Navy) ("navy blue"). It was also worn by the United Kingdom's Royal Observer Corps (/wiki/Royal_Observer_Corps) (ROC) with their Royal Air Force (/wiki/Royal_air_force) (RAF) uniform, Metropolitan Manila Development Authority (/wiki/Metropolitan_Manila_Development_Authority) (MMDA). Black berets are also worn by navies. In some navies, the naval color called black is officially "very dark blue". The Dutch Navy (/wiki/Dutch_Navy) and Marines (/wiki/Netherlands_Marine_Corps) wear dark navy blue berets; a silver anchor for the Navy and a gold or dark brown (field duty) anchor on a red background for the Marines. The Portuguese Marines (/wiki/Portuguese_Marines) and San Marco Regiment (/wiki/San_Marco_Regiment) , the Marines of the Italian Navy also wear a dark blue beret. The Royal Norwegian Air Force (/wiki/Royal_Norwegian_Air_Force) also use a dark blue beret. Finnish Marine Infantry wear a dark blue beret with the Navy insignia.(Finnish Coastal Jaegers - marine commandos - part of the same Nylands Brigade, wear the green beret). Perhaps the most famous Commonwealth wearer of the black beret was Field Marshal (/wiki/Field_Marshal_(United_Kingdom)) Montgomery (/wiki/Bernard_Law_Montgomery,_1st_Viscount_Montgomery_of_Alamein) who wore a Royal Tank Regiment (/wiki/Royal_Tank_Regiment) (RTR) beret complete with cap badge (/wiki/Cap_badge) , presented to him by the regiment, to which he added his own general (/wiki/General) 's (later field marshal (/wiki/Field_marshal) 's) rank insignia (/wiki/British_Army_officer_rank_insignia) . History [ edit ] The usage of black berets by militaries dates to World War I (/wiki/World_War_I) . During the war, the French Army (/wiki/French_Army) 's Chasseurs Alpins (/wiki/Chasseurs_Alpins) wore large black berets as a forage cap (/wiki/Forage_cap) . In 1918, near the end of the war, British Army (/wiki/British_Army) officers Hugh Elles (/wiki/Hugh_Elles) and J. F. C. Fuller (/wiki/J._F._C._Fuller) decided to outfit members of the Royal Tank Corps (/wiki/Royal_Tank_Regiment) with black berets as the colour was least likely to show oil stains. The decision was approved by King George V (/wiki/George_V) on 5 March 1924, and black berets were used exclusively within the British Armed Forces (/wiki/British_Armed_Forces) as the headdress of the Royal Tank Corps during the interwar period (/wiki/Interwar_period) and World War II (/wiki/World_War_II) . When uniforms were issued to the Royal Observer Corps (/wiki/Royal_Observer_Corps) (ROC), there was a surplus of Royal Armoured Corps (/wiki/Royal_Armoured_Corps) black berets which were given to the ROC. [ citation needed ] Usage by country [ edit ] Argentina [ edit ] The Argentine Navy (/wiki/Argentine_Navy) 's Batallón de Infantería de Marina 5 (/wiki/Batall%C3%B3n_de_Infanter%C3%ADa_de_Marina_5) (5th Marine Battalion), of Falklands War (/wiki/Falklands_War) Mount Tumbledown (/wiki/Mount_Tumbledown) fame (1982), wears a black beret. This was introduced by (then) Commander Manuel Tomé around 1977, and the beret was awarded on completion of a Cold Weather and Mountain Warfare Course. Today, all units of the Southern Marine Force of the Argentine Marine Corps (/wiki/Marine_Corps#Argentina) wear black berets with unit badges. Australia [ edit ] In the Australian Army, All RAAC Units (Royal Australian Armoured Corps), wear the black beret. Austria [ edit ] In the Austrian Bundesheer (/wiki/Austrian_Armed_Forces) all armored units (Armored Battalions, Mechanized Infantry Battalions, Artillery Battalions and Mechanized Headquarter Battalions), wear the black beret. Azerbaijan [ edit ] Unit of underwater offence of Azerbaijani Navy with black beret In the Azerbaijani (/wiki/Azerbaijan) Armed Forces (/wiki/Armed_Forces_of_Azerbaijan) armored units of underwater offence of Azerbaijani Navy wear the black beret. Bangladesh [ edit ] In the Bangladesh Army (/wiki/Bangladesh_Army) , all units of the Armoured, Cavalry and Lancer Corps wear black berets.the Rapid Action Battalion of Bangladesh Police also uses black beret. Belgium [ edit ] In the Belgian Army (/wiki/Belgian_Army) , the black beret is worn by cavalry and engineer units. Brazil [ edit ] The Brazilian (/wiki/Brazil) armour and mechanized troops also wear the black beret, as well as the special forces unit of the Military Police of Rio de Janeiro, Batalhão de Operações Policiais Especiais (/wiki/Batalh%C3%A3o_de_Opera%C3%A7%C3%B5es_Policiais_Especiais) (BOPE). In the Brazilian auxiliary military forces of the Polícia Militar (Military Police), specially in Minas Gerais (/wiki/Minas_Gerais) state, officers sometimes wears black berets as official parts of patrol gear. Canada [ edit ] In the Canadian Armed Forces (/wiki/Canadian_Armed_Forces) , black berets are worn by Royal Canadian Armoured Corps (/wiki/Royal_Canadian_Armoured_Corps) soldiers and by all sailors (except military police and special operations (/wiki/Special_operations) sailors). Chile [ edit ] In the Chilean Army (/wiki/Chilean_Army) , the black beret is worn by the paras and the special forces. Croatia [ edit ] In the Croatian Army (/wiki/Military_of_Croatia) black berets are worn by military police units, 1st Mechanized Battalion (https://hr.wikipedia.org/wiki/1._mehanizirana_bojna_%22Tigrovi%22) and the Cadet Battalion. Cuba [ edit ] Special unit of the police. [1] (#cite_note-1) Cyprus [ edit ] In the Cypriot National Guard (/wiki/Cypriot_National_Guard) , the black beret is exclusively given to soldiers of the Armoured Forces and to Officers of the same branch after graduating from the Greek Armoured Forces officers' school. The school is considered the toughest academy of the Greek Army, bar special forces, and therefore the black beret is considered an honour for the bearer. Czech Republic [ edit ] In the Czech Army (/wiki/Czech_Army) , military policemen wear black berets. Denmark [ edit ] In the Danish Army (/wiki/Danish_Army) , the black beret was originally used by all combat regiments, but now it is worn by Jutland Dragoons (/wiki/Jutland_Dragoon_Regiment) , Guard Hussars (/wiki/Guard_Hussar_Regiment_(Denmark)) , Royal Life Guard (/wiki/Royal_Life_Guards_(Denmark)) , Army Combat and Fire Support Center (/wiki/Army_Combat_and_Fire_Support_Center) , Garnisonskommandant Vordingborg and 1st Danish Artillery Battalion (/wiki/1st_Danish_Artillery_Battalion) [2] (#cite_note-2) Finland [ edit ] Only members of the Armored Brigade (/wiki/Armoured_Brigade_(Finnish_Army)) wear black berets. Germany [ edit ] In the German Army (/wiki/German_Army_(Wehrmacht)) , an oversized black beret was introduced during the National Socialist era (/wiki/Nazi_Germany) for tank (/wiki/Panzer) crews, to be worn over the crash helmet; however this was dropped in favour of a black garrison cap (/wiki/Garrison_cap) during World War II (/wiki/World_War_II) . Today the black beret (of conventional size) is worn by the Armoured Corps and the Armoured Reconnaissance Corps. Greece [ edit ] In the Greek Army (/wiki/Greek_Army) , black berets are worn by the Panzer (Armored Vehicles) branch, tracing back to the tradition of the original cavalry units. India [ edit ] In the Indian Army (/wiki/Indian_Army) , all Cavalry and Armoured Corps, National Security Guards (/wiki/National_Security_Guards) & Border Security Force wear black berets. Indonesia [ edit ] In the Indonesian Army (/wiki/Indonesian_Army) , black beret is worn by the members of Cavalry Corps (/wiki/Cavalry) (except cavalry battalions under Kostrad (/wiki/Kostrad) strategic reserve command which wearing dark green beret universal to all of its soldiers). In the Indonesian Navy (/wiki/Indonesian_Navy) , members of the Submarine Corps (/wiki/Submarine) wear black berets. Iraq [ edit ] In the pre-2003 Iraqi Army (/wiki/Iraqi_Army) , the black beret was the most commonly worn headgear and continues to be worn by both army and police personnel of the post-2003 Iraqi Army. Ireland [ edit ] In the Irish Army (/wiki/Irish_Army) the majority of the members of the Permanent Defence Forces, specifically the infantry, wear black berets except for certain combat support units such as MPs, Cavalry etc. Israel [ edit ] In the Israel Defense Forces (/wiki/Israel_Defense_Forces) , soldiers serving in the Armor Corps (/wiki/Israeli_Armor_Corps) wear black berets. Italy [ edit ] In the Italian Army (/wiki/Italian_Army) most units wear a black beret. Exceptions are: Paratroopers, Alpini (/wiki/Alpini) , Army Aviation Corps (AVES), Lagunari (/wiki/Lagunari) and Bersaglieri (/wiki/Bersaglieri) . Luxembourg [ edit ] The black beret is worn by all soldiers in the Luxembourg Army (/wiki/Luxembourg_Army) . Lithuania [ edit ] The black beret is worn by Juozas Vitkus Engineer battalion soldiers in the Lithuanian Armed Forces (/wiki/Lithuanian_Armed_Forces) . Malaysia [ edit ] In the Malaysian Army (/wiki/Malaysian_Army) , the members of the Royal Armor Corps wear the black berets. Namibia [ edit ] In the Namibian Army (/wiki/Namibian_Army) , the black beret is worn by members from Artillery Brigade (/wiki/4_Artillery_Brigade_(Namibia)) , Engineer Regiment (/wiki/Engineer_Regiment_(Namibia)) , Signal Regiment (/wiki/Signal_Regiment_(Namibia)) , Logistic Support Battalion (/wiki/Logistic_Support_Battalion_(Namibia)) , Air Defence Brigade (/wiki/Air_Defence_Brigade_(Namibia)) , the Namibian Air Force (/wiki/Namibian_Air_Force) and Namibian Navy (/wiki/Namibian_Navy) also wear the black beret Nigeria [ edit ] In the Nigerian Air Force (/wiki/Nigerian_Air_Force) , the black beret is worn by Nigerian airforce regiment and Navy personnel Netherlands [ edit ] In the Dutch Army (/wiki/Dutch_Army) , the black beret is worn by cavalry battalions. New Zealand [ edit ] In the New Zealand Police (/wiki/New_Zealand_Police) , members of the Armed Offenders Squad (/wiki/Armed_Offenders_Squad) wore the black beret. Non-state actors [ edit ] Che Guevara (/wiki/Che_Guevara) wearing his iconic black beret One of the most famous photographs of Che Guevara (/wiki/Che_Guevara) taken by Alberto Korda (/wiki/Alberto_Korda) was of him wearing a black beret with a gold star. Fidel Castro (/wiki/Fidel_Castro) also wore a black beret during the revolution (/wiki/Cuban_Revolution) against the Batista government of Cuba. [3] (#cite_note-3) In the 1960s several activist groups adopted the beret. The Black Panther Party (/wiki/Black_Panther_Party) , of the United States formed in 1966, wore black berets. [4] (#cite_note-4) A similar Black Power (/wiki/Black_Power) organisation in Bermuda (/wiki/Bermuda) was named the Black Beret Cadre. [5] (#cite_note-5) Chicano activists wore the black beret in the 1960s and 70s (in homage to Che Guevara) as a symbol of militancy and organized the Black Berets por La Justicia throughout California and the Southwestern United States. Irish National Liberation Army (/wiki/Irish_National_Liberation_Army) members wore a black beret. Patriotic League of the Republic of Bosnia and Herzegovina (/wiki/Patriotic_League_(Bosnia_and_Herzegovina)) members typically wore black berets (among other colours) that were common among the older Bosniak (/wiki/Bosniak) male population, usually with the Ljiljani coat of arms stitched on the front of the beret. It was also common among other Bosniak paramilitary forces during the Bosnian War (/wiki/Bosnian_War) . Provisional Irish Republican Army (/wiki/Provisional_Irish_Republican_Army) members wore a black beret. ETA (/wiki/ETA_(separatist_group)) wore black berets over hoods in public appearances. THRUSH (/wiki/THRUSH) troops on The Man from UNCLE (/wiki/The_Man_from_UNCLE) wore black berets. Since August 2017, the Knights of Columbus (/wiki/Knights_of_Columbus) Fourth Degree members are now wearing black berets as part of their new uniform. [6] (#cite_note-6) Norway [ edit ] The Norwegian Army (/wiki/Norwegian_Army) Panserbataljonen (/wiki/Panserbataljonen) (armoured) and other cavalry units wear black berets. Philippines [ edit ] In the Philippine Army (/wiki/Philippine_Army) , the members of the 1st Scout Ranger Regiment (/wiki/1st_Scout_Ranger_Regiment) , Presidential Security Group (/wiki/Presidential_Security_Group) and Tank Officers from the Philippine Army Light Armor Division (/w/index.php?title=Philippine_Army_Light_Armor_Division&action=edit&redlink=1) In the Philippine Air Force (/wiki/Philippine_Air_Force) , members of the Special Operations Wing (/wiki/Special_Operations_Wing) wears black berets. In the Philippine National Police (/wiki/Philippine_National_Police) , members of the Special Action Force (/wiki/Special_Action_Force) wears black berets. In the Metropolitan Manila Development Authority (/wiki/Metropolitan_Manila_Development_Authority) , members of the Traffic Enforcers (/w/index.php?title=Traffic_Enforcers&action=edit&redlink=1) wears black berets. Pakistan [ edit ] In the Pakistan Army (/wiki/Pakistan_Army) , the Armoured Corps wears black berets as well as special forces. Poland [ edit ] In the Polish Armed Forces (/wiki/Polish_Armed_Forces) , the black berets are worn by armored units of Polish Army (/wiki/Polish_Army) , and by Polish Navy (/wiki/Polish_Navy) . Portugal [ edit ] In the Portuguese Army (/wiki/Portuguese_Army) , the black beret is worn by the cavalry branch (/wiki/Cavalry) , including the armoured troops and the military police (/wiki/Military_police) . The black beret is also worn by several Portuguese civil forces, like the Bomb disposal (/wiki/Bomb_disposal) unit of the Public Security Police (/wiki/Public_Security_Police) , the Prison Guard Corps and the Civil Defense. Russia [ edit ] Both the Russian Naval Infantry (/wiki/Russian_Naval_Infantry) and OMON (/wiki/OMON) special police wears the black beret with its dress and field uniforms, when not wearing helmets. Serbia [ edit ] Members of the Serbian military police (/wiki/Military_of_Serbia) wear black berets. Singapore [ edit ] The black beret is worn by the Armour (/wiki/Armour_(Singapore_Army)) formation of the Singapore Armed Forces (/wiki/Singapore_Armed_Forces) (SAF). Spain [ edit ] Traditionally in the Spanish Armed Forces (/wiki/Spanish_Armed_Forces) black berets were used to denote paratroopers units. The custom originating in the Spanish Air Force (/wiki/Spanish_Air_Force) , although it is now used also by other non-paratroopers units in the Army and the Air Force. In the Spanish Army (/wiki/Spanish_Army) , the black beret is worn by the Mechanized Brigades and the Parachutist Brigade BRIPAC (/wiki/Paratrooper_Brigade_(Spain)) . In the Spanish Air Force (/wiki/Spanish_Air_Force) , the black beret is worn by the paratroopers units, the Air Deployment Support Squads EADA and SEADA, as well as by Air Force Police Units. The special operations unit EZAPAC (/w/index.php?title=EZAPAC&action=edit&redlink=1) used to wear the black beret until 1997 that was change to a Green Beret (/wiki/Military_beret#Spain) , to denote their Special Forces specialization. Major General Omar Haji Masalle (/wiki/Omar_Haji_Mohamed) , an Armoured battalion commander wearing his black beret Somalia [ edit ] In the Somali Army (/wiki/Somali_Army) , members of the Armoured Battalions (/wiki/Armoured_warfare) and the Army's rear (/wiki/Rear_(military)) wear a black beret, inherited from British military tradition. In the Somali Navy (/wiki/Somali_Navy) , the black beret is the standard issue headgear. South Africa [ edit ] In the South African Army (/wiki/South_African_Army) , members of the South African Armour Corps (/wiki/South_African_Army_Armoured_Formation) , the South African Intelligence Corps, Defence Intelligence Division (/wiki/Defence_Intelligence_Division_(SANDF)) and the Technical Service Corps wear the black beret, each with their respective corps badge. Members of the South African Navy (/wiki/South_African_Navy) Maritime Reaction Squadron (/wiki/Maritime_Reaction_Squadron) also wear the black beret. South Korea [ edit ] In the South Korean army (/wiki/Republic_of_Korea_Army) , black berets are worn by South Korean army special operations forces (/wiki/Republic_of_Korea_Army_Special_Warfare_Command) . Sri Lanka [ edit ] In the Sri Lankan Army (/wiki/Sri_Lankan_Army) , the Armoured Corps (/wiki/Sri_Lanka_Armoured_Corps) , Mechanized Infantry (/wiki/Mechanized_Infantry_Regiment) and the Special Forces (/wiki/Sri_Lanka_Army_Special_Forces_Regiment) wear black berets. In the Sri Lankan Navy (/wiki/Sri_Lankan_Navy) , the black beret is worn by the Members of the elite Special Boat Squadron (/wiki/Special_Boat_Squadron_(Sri_Lanka)) . Sweden [ edit ] In the Swedish Army (/wiki/Swedish_Army) , all armour and mechanized units wear black berets. Switzerland [ edit ] In the Swiss Army (/wiki/Swiss_Army) , black berets are worn by Tank Branch, Pioneers, Rescue Troops, Communication and Command Troops, high command, Tank Grenadiers, Chaplains, armed forces legal service and other troops. Turkey [ edit ] In the Turkish Land Forces (/wiki/Turkish_Land_Forces) , the black berets are worn by armor personnel. United Kingdom [ edit ] An officer from the MOD Guard Service's Dog Section (/wiki/Ministry_of_Defence_Guard_Service) patrolling In the United Kingdom's Ministry of Defence (/wiki/Ministry_of_Defence_(United_Kingdom)) the Ministry of Defence Guard Service (/wiki/Ministry_of_Defence_Guard_Service) don a very dark blue beret. United States [ edit ] In the United States military, the beret was unofficially worn by a variety of special operations (/wiki/Special_operations) units during and following World War II. In the spring of 1951, the 10th and 11th Ranger Companies wore black berets during their training at Camp Carson (/wiki/Camp_Carson) , Colorado, before their deployment to Japan. U.S. Air Force [ edit ] Air Force TACP officer wearing black beret (2019) In 1979, the black beret was authorized for wear by enlisted personnel in the Tactical Air Control Party (/wiki/Tactical_Air_Control_Party) (TACP). In 1984, two airmen from Pope Air Force Base, North Carolina submitted the current flash (/wiki/United_States_military_beret_flash) and badge design. It was approved for all TACP airmen in 1985. [7] (#cite_note-Beret_History-7) TACP specialists (AFSC 1C4X1) are currently the only United States Air Force specialty allowed to wear the coveted black beret as part of their daily duty uniform wear. [8] (#cite_note-8) U.S. Army [ edit ] A US Army Ranger School (/wiki/Ranger_School) Class commander wearing black beret with his Ranger Tab and rank insignia, 1971 [9] (#cite_note-Ranger_Graduation_11-71-9) A U.S. Army NCO with the 11th Armored Cavalry Regiment (/wiki/11th_Armored_Cavalry_Regiment) wearing black beret with Armored Cavalry Oval, DUI, and rank insignia, c. 1970s [10] (#cite_note-Various_Army_Berets-10) A US Army Medical Corps (/wiki/US_Army_Medical_Corps) officer wearing black female beret with Officer Cap Device, c. 1975 [11] (#cite_note-Army_Med_History-11) An infantryman with 1st Cavalry Division (/wiki/1st_Cavalry_Division_(United_States)) , 1st Brigade, 1st Battalion, 12th Cavalry wearing black beret, 1976 [12] (#cite_note-TRICAP_Example-12) An armor officer with the US Army Armor School (/wiki/United_States_Army_Armor_School) wearing black beret with Armor School Instructor Flash and rank insignia, 1976 [10] (#cite_note-Various_Army_Berets-10) A soldier from 1st Battalion, 23rd Infantry Regiment (/wiki/23rd_Infantry_Regiment) wearing black beret with Department of the Army Beret Flash and his regiment's DUI, c. 2001 In 1973, permission was granted to local commanders to encourage distinctive, morale-enhancing uniform items and the black beret was adopted by armor and armored cavalry units in the United States. A black beret was authorized for wear by female soldiers in 1975. [13] (#cite_note-13) On January 30, 1975, it was officially assigned as part of the newly created battalions of United States Army Rangers (/wiki/United_States_Army_Rangers) who had worn it unofficially during the Vietnam War. In 1979, the U.S. Army Chief of Staff (/wiki/U.S._Army_Chief_of_Staff) ruled that the black beret was restricted to just ranger and airborne units (the latter receiving their distinctive maroon berets on November 28, 1980). However, since June 14, 2001, the black beret is worn by all United States Army (/wiki/United_States_Army) troops unless the soldier is approved to wear a different distinctive beret. The Rangers now wear tan berets (/wiki/Tan_beret) , alluding to the buckskins worn by Rogers' Rangers (/wiki/Rogers%27_Rangers) during the French and Indian War (/wiki/French_and_Indian_War) . The black beret is worn as part of the Army Service Uniform (/wiki/Army_Service_Uniform) (ASU), the U.S. Army's dress uniform. It also became the official garrison headgear to be worn with the Battle Dress Uniform (/wiki/Battle_Dress_Uniform) (BDUs) in 2001, and from 2005 the Army Combat Uniform (/wiki/Army_Combat_Uniform) (ACU). The change was implemented by General Eric Shinseki (/wiki/Eric_Shinseki) , Army Chief of Staff at the time, who stated that it was about promoting "...our values as an institution." [14] (#cite_note-14) From the beginning, the beret was unpopular with soldiers because the headgear required two hands to put it on, provided no shade from the sun (unlike the patrol cap (/wiki/Patrol_cap) ), had to be shaved and shaped upon acquisition and, as black wool, was hot and uncomfortable in warm weather. When worn improperly, the beret prompted several nicknames for the resulting look, such as "the Cyclops", "the Pirate", or "the Princess." [15] (#cite_note-15) Despite years of negative feedback, the beret remained part of the ACU until 2011, when incoming Sergeant Major of the Army Raymond F. Chandler (/wiki/Raymond_F._Chandler) made it his first order of business to address the wishes "thousands of soldiers" who wanted the army to end the wear of the beret with the ACU, and the army subsequently did just that. [16] (#cite_note-Army_Dumps_Beret-16) [17] (#cite_note-17) [18] (#cite_note-18) The black beret remained the headgear for the ASU, but was replaced as the default headgear with the ACU patrol cap. [19] (#cite_note-Beret_replacement-19) U.S. Navy [ edit ] CNO and COMRIVPATFOR wearing black berets with the River Patrol Force TF-116 patch (1969) U.S. sailor wearing female-only black beret (d/c 2016) During the Vietnam War (/wiki/Vietnam_War) U.S. Navy personnel assigned to patrol boats (/wiki/Patrol_Boat,_River) and members of Inshore Undersea Warfare Group 1, WESTPAC Division wore the South Vietnamese navy (/wiki/Republic_of_Vietnam_Navy) black beret with badge. Unlike the U.S. Navy SEAL teams, the beret was authorized for wear In Country only. Unit tradition had the back ribbon cut into two pennants after first contact with the enemy with the ends of the pennant notched in a "V" to signify he had made an enemy "kill". [20] (#cite_note-20) Until October 2016, a black beret was authorized to be worn in the U.S. Navy, [21] (#cite_note-21) [22] (#cite_note-22) albeit solely by female sailors of all pay-grades. [23] (#cite_note-23) Female commissioned officers wore the U.S. Navy officer crest on the beret above the left eyebrow, female petty officers and seamen wore the combination cover's device, and female chief petty officers wore their rate insignia instead. The female black beret's usage was discontinued along with the officer's tiara by the navy in 2016 as part of a naval effort to reduce the number of uniform items, make them appear more unisex, and also due to a lack of widespread use. [24] (#cite_note-24) Ukraine [ edit ] A Ukrainian naval infantryman armed with a Dragunov sniper rifle (/wiki/Dragunov_sniper_rifle) takes part in Exercise Northern Light '03 (/w/index.php?title=Exercise_Northern_Light_%2703&action=edit&redlink=1) on the west coast of Scotland (/wiki/Scotland) in 2003. The Ukrainian Marines (/wiki/Ukrainian_Naval_Infantry) formerly wore, and were known as the "Black Berets" until 2018. [25] (#cite_note-25) [26] (#cite_note-26) Venezuela [ edit ] In the Venezuelan Army (/wiki/Venezuelan_Army) , black berets are of general use except for Paratroopers, Special Forces, Counter-insurgency troops and soldiers stationed inside the Ministry of Defence and Army headquarters. See also [ edit ] Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Beret (/wiki/Beret) Military beret (/wiki/Military_beret) Uniform beret (/wiki/Uniform_beret) , for the use of berets as uniform headgear outside the military Military berets (/wiki/Military_beret) by color Green beret (/wiki/Green_beret) Maroon beret (/wiki/Maroon_beret) Red beret (/wiki/Red_beret) Tan beret (/wiki/Tan_beret) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) 'We felt free': Cubans remain defiant in face of protest crackdown (https://www.bbc.com/news/world-latin-america-58255555) , BBC, 20.08.2021 ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Nye myndigheder, nye baretmærker og farver" (https://web.archive.org/web/20151117024535/http://forsvaret.dk/HST/Nyt%20og%20Presse/forlig2013-17/Pages/Nyemyndigheder,nyebaretm%C3%A6rkerogfarver.aspx) . Forsvaret (in Danish). Archived from the original (http://forsvaret.dk/HST/Nyt%20og%20Presse/forlig2013-17/Pages/Nyemyndigheder,nyebaretm%C3%A6rkerogfarver.aspx) on 2015-11-17 . Retrieved 2015-11-22 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "The Hat" (https://web.archive.org/web/20081221184408/http://www.fbuch.com/thehat.htm) . Archived from the original (http://www.fbuch.com/thehat.htm) on 2008-12-21 . Retrieved 2009-01-16 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) p.119 Ogbar, Jeffrey Ogbanna Green Black Power: Radical Politics and African American Identity 2004 JHU Press ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Black Berets" (https://web.archive.org/web/20160111162859/http://bermuda.org.uk/black_berets.htm) . Archived from the original (http://www.bermuda.org.uk/black_berets.htm) on 2016-01-11 . Retrieved 2009-01-16 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Color Corps Drill Manual (PDF) . Knights of Columbus. 2018. p. 10. ^ (#cite_ref-Beret_History_7-0) "The Beret in U.S. Military Uniform History" (https://www.thebalancecareers.com/u-s-military-beret-history-3331980) , The Balance Careers, by Rod Powers, updated 27 June 2019, last accessed 7 March 2023 ^ (#cite_ref-8) "U.S. Military Beret History (Page 2)". Usmilitary.about.com. 2001-10-17. ^ (#cite_ref-Ranger_Graduation_11-71_9-0) Airborne and Ranger Training Brigade (ARTB), Graduates, 1971, Class 11-1971 (https://www.benning.army.mil/infantry/artb/Graduates/images/11-71.jpg) , benning.army.mil, dated 1971, last accessed 13 June 2020 ^ Jump up to: a b US Army berets - blue, black, green, maroon, tan... (http://www.usmilitariaforum.com/forums/index.php?/topic/7676-us-army-berets-blue-black-green-maroon-tan/) , The US Militaria Forum, last accessed 16 October 2020 ^ (#cite_ref-Army_Med_History_11-0) Class A Service and Dress From Uniforms From 1970's-2000 (https://history.amedd.army.mil/ANCWebsite/uniformpres_files/ClassA70s-2000.html) ; US Army Medical Department, Office of Medical History; last modified 2 July 2009, last accessed 20 May 2020 ^ (#cite_ref-TRICAP_Example_12-0) Fort Hood, TX - 1976 - when I was in the 1st Battalion, 12th Cavalry (Mechanized Infantry) in the First Cavalry Division. A great looking uniform with the black beret - the 1/12 had lots of unit citations too. (https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=10153655065394526) , US Army photograph hosted on Facebook, curtesy of Quentin Robinson, dated 1976, posted 11 November 2015, last accessed 15 January 2022 ^ (#cite_ref-13) p.223 Stanton, Shelby U.S. Army Uniforms of the Cold War 1948–1973 1994 Stackpole Books ^ (#cite_ref-14) Defense Leaders Uphold Army's Black Beret Decision (Corrected Copy) (https://web.archive.org/web/20180616053856/http://archive.defense.gov/news/newsarticle.aspx?id=45776) , by Linda D. Kozaryn, American Forces Press Service, dated 16 March 2001, last accessed 20 November 2021 ^ (#cite_ref-15) Knopf, Christina M. (2015). The comic art of war: a critical study of military cartoons, 1805/2014, with a guide to artists . Jefferson, North Carolina: McFarland & Company, Inc., Publishers. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-7864-9835-2 . ^ (#cite_ref-Army_Dumps_Beret_16-0) "Army dumps beret as official ACU headgear" (https://archive.today/20140220043908/http://www.armytimes.com/article/20110613/NEWS/106130309/Army-dumps-beret-official-ACU-headgear) . Archived from the original (http://www.armytimes.com/article/20110613/NEWS/106130309/Army-dumps-beret-official-ACU-headgear) on 2014-02-20. ^ (#cite_ref-17) Pierce-Lunderman, Cursha (June 23, 2011). "Bye-Bye, Beret: Switch to Patrol Cap Brings Mixed Feelings" (https://www.army.mil/article/60276/Bye_bye__beret__Switch_to_patrol_cap_brings_mixed_feelings) . U.S. Army . Retrieved March 2, 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) Shaughnessy, Larry (June 14, 2011). "Army Backtracks on Black Berets After More than a Decade of Debate" (http://www.cnn.com/2011/US/06/13/army.beret/) . CNN . Retrieved March 2, 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-Beret_replacement_19-0) Lopez, C. Todd (June 15, 2011). "ACU Changes Make Velcro Optional, Patrol Cap Default headgear" (http://www.army.mil/article/59441/ACU_changes_make_Velcro_optional__patrol_cap_default_headgear) . U.S. Army . Retrieved March 2, 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-20) Cutler, Thomas J. (/wiki/Thomas_J._Cutler) (2000) Brown Water, Black Berets . Naval Institute Press, p. 172. ^ (#cite_ref-21) Uniform regulations (http://www.public.navy.mil/bupers-npc/support/uniforms/uniformregulations/Documents/01NOVSOC.pdf) US Navy Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20170406111606/http://www.public.navy.mil/bupers-npc/support/uniforms/uniformregulations/Documents/01NOVSOC.pdf) 2017-04-06 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ^ (#cite_ref-22) "U.S. Navy Uniform Regulations, Article 3501.3, Beret (Females)" (https://web.archive.org/web/20070521043303/http://buperscd.technology.navy.mil/bup_updt/508/unireg/chapter3/3500_seriesArticles/3501_3.htm) . buperscd.technology.navy.mil . Archived from the original (http://buperscd.technology.navy.mil/bup_updt/508/unireg/chapter3/3500_seriesArticles/3501_3.htm) on 21 May 2007 . Retrieved 11 January 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-23) "Archived copy" (https://web.archive.org/web/20110831052528/http://timemilitary.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/unif-navy.pdf) (PDF) . timemilitary.files.wordpress.com . Archived from the original (http://timemilitary.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/unif-navy.pdf) (PDF) on 31 August 2011 . Retrieved 11 January 2022 . {{ cite web (/wiki/Template:Cite_web) }} : CS1 maint: archived copy as title ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_archived_copy_as_title) ) ^ (#cite_ref-24) "NAVADMIN 208/15" (http://www.public.navy.mil/bupers-npc/reference/messages/Documents/NAVADMINS/NAV2015/NAV15208.txt) . September 2015 . Retrieved March 4, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-25) "Acknowledging defeat, Ukraine pulls troops from Crimea" (https://www.reuters.com/article/us-ukraine-crisis-crimea-base-idUSBREA2N09J20140324) . Reuters . 2014-03-24 . Retrieved 2022-07-30 . ^ (#cite_ref-26) "Порошенко урочисто змінив колір беретів морпіхів і встановив День морської піхоти" (https://web.archive.org/web/20180523173832/https://espreso.tv/news/2018/05/23/poroshenko_urochysto_zminyv_kolir_beretiv_morpikhiv_i_vstanovyv_den_morskoyi_pikhoty) . 2018-05-23. Archived from the original (https://espreso.tv/news/2018/05/23/poroshenko_urochysto_zminyv_kolir_beretiv_morpikhiv_i_vstanovyv_den_morskoyi_pikhoty) on 2018-05-23 . 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Genre of photography This article needs to be updated . Please help update this article to reflect recent events or newly available information. ( June 2017 ) Fashion photography Photoshoot in Tehran (/wiki/Tehran) , Iran (2018) Genre of Photography (/wiki/Photography) Type of Product photography related fields Digital photography (/wiki/Digital_photography) , Photojournalism (/wiki/Photojournalism) , Food photography (/wiki/Food_photography) , Fashion illustration (/wiki/Fashion_illustration) v t e Fashion photography is a genre of photography (/wiki/Photography) that portrays clothing (/wiki/Clothing) and other fashion (/wiki/Fashion) items. This sometimes includes haute couture (/wiki/Haute_couture) garments. It typically consists of a fashion photographer (/wiki/Photographer) taking pictures of a dressed model (/wiki/Model_(person)) in a photographic studio (/wiki/Photographic_studio) or an outside setting. It originated from the clothing (/wiki/Clothing_industry) and fashion (/wiki/Fashion_industry) industries, and while some fashion photography has been elevated as art (/wiki/Art) , it is still primarily used commercially for clothing, perfumes (/wiki/Perfume) and beauty products (/wiki/Beauty_products) . [1] (#cite_note-achard-1) Fashion photography is most often conducted for advertisements (/wiki/Advertisement) or fashion magazines (/wiki/Fashion_magazine) such as Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) , Vanity Fair (/wiki/Vanity_Fair_(magazine)) , and Elle (/wiki/Elle_(magazine)) . It has become a necessary way for fashion designers to promote their work. Fashion photography has developed its own aesthetic (/wiki/Aesthetic) in which the clothes (/wiki/Textile) and fashions are enhanced by the presence of exotic locations or accessories. [1] (#cite_note-achard-1) The history of this type of photography was intertwined for its first decades with the fashion magazines in which the photographs appeared, replacing the fashion illustrations (/wiki/Fashion_illustration) that initially dominated the magazines. It gained prominence as its photographers, such as Irving Penn (/wiki/Irving_Penn) or Richard Avedon (/wiki/Richard_Avedon) , gained recognition. While the beginning of modern fashion photography is symbolically attributed to 1911, it was not until the mid-1930s that its popularity spread, with its heyday beginning after the Second World War (/wiki/World_War_II) . This photographic genre has spread from fashion magazines and is featured in coffee table books (/wiki/Coffee_table_books) , art galleries (/wiki/Art_gallery) and museums (/wiki/Museum) . History [ edit ] Origins of fashion photography [ edit ] The Countess in a photo by Pierre-Louise Pierson (/wiki/Pierre-Louis_Pierson) (c. 1863/66) Fashion photography has been in existence since the earliest days of photography. The oldest surviving photograph taken on camera was made by Nicéphore Niépce (/wiki/Nic%C3%A9phore_Ni%C3%A9pce) in 1826, [2] (#cite_note-2) but people would soon use photography to present costumes and garb. Beginning in 1856, Virginia Oldoini, Countess di Castiglione (/wiki/Virginia_Oldoini) , a Tuscan (/wiki/Tuscany) noblewoman at the court of Napoleon III (/wiki/Napoleon_III_of_France) directed imperial court photographer, Pierre-Louis Pierson (/wiki/Pierre-Louis_Pierson) to help her create 700 different photographs in which she re-created the signature moments of her life for the camera. Many of the photographs depict her in official court attire while other outfits ranged from the theatrical to the absurd, making her arguably the first fashion model. [3] (#cite_note-3) In 1881, fashion photographs started to be included with French textile sample books. Ten years later, Mme. Caroline de Broutelles (/w/index.php?title=Caroline_de_Broutelles&action=edit&redlink=1) founded French fashion magazine La Mode Pratique (/wiki/La_Mode_Pratique) [4] (#cite_note-4) [5] (#cite_note-5) which became the first to feature fashion photographs in print in 1892. [6] (#cite_note-Croll-6) American magazine Harper's Bazaar (/wiki/Harper%27s_Bazaar) would soon follow. [ citation needed ] The 1900s and 1910s [ edit ] Actress Helen Lee Worthing (/wiki/Helen_Lee_Worthing) , by Baron Adolph de Meyer, Vogue (US), December 1919 In the first decade of the 20th century, advances in halftone (/wiki/Halftone) printing (/wiki/Printing) allowed fashion photographs to be used in magazines, which caused fashion magazines to become popular subscriptions in the United States. In 1909, Condé Nast (/wiki/Cond%C3%A9_Montrose_Nast) took over Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) magazine and also contributed to the beginnings of fashion photography. In 1911, photographer Edward Steichen (/wiki/Edward_Steichen) was "dared" by Lucien Vogel (/w/index.php?title=Lucien_Vogel&action=edit&redlink=1) [ fr (https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Vogel) ] , the publisher of Jardin des Modes and La Gazette du Bon Ton (/wiki/La_Gazette_du_Bon_Ton) , to promote fashion as a fine art by the use of photography. [7] (#cite_note-Niven_1997_352-7) Steichen then took photos of gowns designed by couturier (/wiki/Couturier) Paul Poiret (/wiki/Paul_Poiret) . [7] (#cite_note-Niven_1997_352-7) These photographs were published in the April 1911 issue of the magazine Art et Décoration . [7] (#cite_note-Niven_1997_352-7) According to Jesse Alexander, This is "...now considered to be the first ever modern fashion photography shoot. That is, photographing the garments in such a way as to convey a sense of their physical quality as well as their formal appearance, as opposed to simply illustrating the object." [8] (#cite_note-Alexander_2008-8) Steichen's 1911 shoot, however, was, at the time, a one-off as Steichen left the fashion scene, opening the way for Baron Adolph de Meyer (/wiki/Adolph_de_Meyer) to become the prominent name in the industry. [6] (#cite_note-Croll-6) De Meyer would be hired by the multimedia company, Condé Nast (/wiki/Cond%C3%A9_Nast) , and become the first full-time photographer for Vogue in 1913. [9] (#cite_note-9) De Meyer's photograph style creating a delicate ambiance, which used a combination of romantic lighting and floral decorations while softening the focus, became imitated by so many other photographers that it soon became outmoded by 1923 when he left Condé Nast. [6] (#cite_note-Croll-6) The 1920s and 1930s [ edit ] Baron de Meyer's replacement as staff photographer would be Edward Steichen, himself, who brought in a crisp, modernist (/wiki/Modernism) style focusing on the model rather than the settings and surroundings. [6] (#cite_note-Croll-6) His novel approach would increase his reputational standing. Steichen's high esteem as a photographer led him not only to Vogue as the chief photographer, but Vanity Fair as well, for fourteen years . [10] (#cite_note-10) Vogue was followed by its rival, Harper's Bazaar , and the two companies were leaders in the field of fashion photography throughout the 1920s and 1930s. House photographers such as Steichen, George Hoyningen-Huene (/wiki/George_Hoyningen-Huene) , Horst P. Horst (/wiki/Horst_P._Horst) and Cecil Beaton (/wiki/Cecil_Beaton) transformed the genre into an outstanding art form. In the mid-1930s as World War II (/wiki/World_War_II) approached, the focus shifted to the United States, where Vogue and Harper's continued their old rivalry. The fashion model was first discovered in 1853. [11] (#cite_note-11) In 1936, Martin Munkacsi made the first photographs of models in sporty poses at the beach. Under the artistic direction of Alexey Brodovitch (/wiki/Alexey_Brodovitch) , Harper's Bazaar quickly introduced this new style into its magazine. During 1928 to 1940, a French photographic journal Vu (/wiki/Vu_(magazine)) was issued by Lucien Vogel, who had started working in fashion publications, and his wife Cosette de Brunhoff (/w/index.php?title=Cosette_de_Brunhoff&action=edit&redlink=1) , the first editor of French (/wiki/Vogue_France) Vogue in 1920. They made innovative fashion photography using montage (/wiki/Photomontage) techniques and experimented with new lightweight cameras. The covers they produced included celebrities as well as students; their work centered on haute couture and investigative journalism. Compared to the works of Vogue at that time, their work seemed to have more edge. [12] (#cite_note-12) World War II [ edit ] From 1939 and onward, what had previously been the flourishing and sizeable industry of fashion photography all but stopped due to the beginnings of World War II. The United States and Europe quickly diverged from one another. What had previously been a togetherness and inspired working relationship diverged with Paris occupied and London (/wiki/London) under siege. Paris, the main fashion power house of the time quickly became isolated from the United States—especially with Vogue Paris (/wiki/Vogue_Paris) shutting down for a brief hiatus in 1940. [13] (#cite_note-foo-13) With these changes, the photography based out of the USA gained a distinct Americana vibe—models often posed with flags, American brand cars, and generally just fulfilling the American ideal. What did remain of the French and British fashion photography on the other hand often had a wartime overlay to the content. Cecil Beaton (/wiki/Cecil_Beaton) 's ‘Fashion is Indestructible’ from 1941 displays a well-dressed woman viewing the rubble that once was Middle Temple (/wiki/Middle_Temple) in London. Similarly, Lee Miller (/wiki/Lee_Miller) began taking photos of women in Paris and London, modeling the latest designs for gas masks and bicycling with pin curlers in their hair, as they did not have electricity with which to curl their hair. [14] (#cite_note-14) Images such as these remain scarred into the face of fashion photography of the time and display a common sentiment among the fashionable world and the public. Even fashion photographers worked to document the issues surrounding and work towards a documentation of the time—even if within the frame of fashion. These photos are an especially good indication of the fashionable emotions of the time. Many felt that fashion photography, during wartime especially, was frivolous and unnecessary. Yet, the few who worked to preserve the industry did so in new and inventive ways throughout the duration of the war. [15] (#cite_note-15) Postwar developments [ edit ] Fashion photograph by Toni Frissell (/wiki/Toni_Frissell) , 1949 In postwar London, John French (/wiki/John_French_(photographer)) pioneered a new form of fashion photography suited to reproduction in newsprint, involving natural light and low contrast. [16] (#cite_note-16) [17] (#cite_note-17) After the Second World War style went through dramatic changes. A range of new designers appeared during the 1950s and 1960s and they produced more diverse styles of clothing. [18] (#cite_note-tws25-18) In 1983 Vanity Fair hired Annie Leibovitz as its first chief photographer to continue Steichen's legacy in modern photography through celebrity portraits. [19] (#cite_note-19) Gallery [ edit ] Paddington Station by Toni Frissell, 1951 Photograph of a green brocade silk saree American model Renée Gunter modeling haute couture References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b Achard, Julian (2011-10-10). "La photo de mode [archive]" (https://web.archive.org/web/20220704060021/https://www.commentcamarche.net/contents/2209-la-photo-de-mode) . commentcamarche.net (in French). Archived from the original (https://www.commentcamarche.net/contents/2209-la-photo-de-mode) on 2022-07-04 . Retrieved 2022-11-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "N is for... Joseph Nicéphore Niépce, creator of the first photograph" (https://blog.scienceandmediamuseum.org.uk/a-z-of-photography-joseph-nicephore-niepce-first-photograph/) . National Science and Media Museum blog . 25 November 2013 . Retrieved 2022-02-17 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Solomon-Godeau, Abigail (1986). "The Legs of the Countess" (http://www.jstor.org/stable/778313) . October (/wiki/October_(journal)) . 39 . MIT Press: 65–108. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.2307/778313 (https://doi.org/10.2307%2F778313) . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0162-2870 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0162-2870) . JSTOR (/wiki/JSTOR_(identifier)) 778313 (https://www.jstor.org/stable/778313) . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Anonymous (1907), "Mme C. de Broutelles" (https://fr.wikisource.org/wiki/Le_Prix_%E2%80%9CVie_heureuse%E2%80%9D#) , in Hachette et Cie (ed.), Le Prix "Vie heureuse" (in French), pp. 8–9 , retrieved 16 November 2022 ^ (#cite_ref-5) Best, Kate Nelson (2017). The History of Fashion Journalism . India: Bloomsbury Publishing. p. 255. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781474285179 . Retrieved 11 November 2022 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d Croll, Jennifer (2014). Fashion that Changed the World . Munich: Prestel Verlag. p. 46. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-3791347899 . Retrieved 11 November 2022 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Niven, Penelope (1997). Steichen: A Biography . New York: Clarkson Potter. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-517-59373-4 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-517-59373-4) , p. 352 ^ (#cite_ref-Alexander_2008_8-0) Alexander, Jesse, "Edward Steichen: Lives in Photography," HotShoe magazine, no.151, December/January 2008, pp.66 – 67 ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Baron Adolf de Meyer (The J. Paul Getty Museum Collection)" (https://www.getty.edu/art/collection/person/103KJP) . The J. Paul Getty Museum Collection . Retrieved 2022-08-18 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "Edward Steichen | Topics | Vanity Fair Archive" (https://archive.vanityfair.com/sections/edward-steichen) . Vanity Fair | The Complete Archive . Retrieved 2021-03-06 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Fashion Photography - Concepts & Styles" (https://www.theartstory.org/movement/fashion-photography/history-and-concepts/) . The Art Story . Retrieved 2022-02-17 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) Rook, Penelope (2017). "Fashion Photography and Photojournalism: Posing the Body in Vu" (https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/1362704X.2017.1256965) . Fashion Theory . 21 (2): 131–156. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1080/1362704X.2017.1256965 (https://doi.org/10.1080%2F1362704X.2017.1256965) . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 1362-704X (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/1362-704X) . S2CID (/wiki/S2CID_(identifier)) 193655011 (https://api.semanticscholar.org/CorpusID:193655011) . ^ (#cite_ref-foo_13-0) Hall-Duncan, Nancy. The History of Fashion Photography. New York: Alpine Book, 1979. Print. ^ (#cite_ref-14) Conekin, Becky E. "Lee Miller's Simultaneity: Photographer and Model in the Pages of Inter-War Vogue." Fashion as Photograph: Viewing and Reviewing Images of Fashion. Comp. Eugénie Shinkle. London: I.B. Tauris, 2008. 70-83. Print. ^ (#cite_ref-15) Devlin, Polly. Vogue Book of Fashion Photography. London: Thames and Hudson, 1979. Print ^ (#cite_ref-16) McCabe, Eamonn (2005). The Making of Great Photographs: Approaches and Techniques of the Masters . Newton Abbot: David & Charles. pp. 120–1 (https://archive.org/details/makingofgreatpho0000mcca/page/120) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-7153-2220-6 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) Mendes, Valerie D. (comp.) (1984). John French, fashion photographer . Victoria & Albert Museum. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-905209-97-4 . ^ (#cite_ref-tws25_18-0) Regina Arriola (2012-05-30). "Annie Leibovitz Shoots Karlie Kloss and US Olympic Team Stars in Miami" (https://web.archive.org/web/20120602092018/http://www.hautefashiondaily.com/annie-leibovitz-shoots-karlie-kloss-and-us-olympic-team-stars-in-miami) . Hasselblad. Archived from the original (http://www.hautefashiondaily.com/annie-leibovitz-shoots-karlie-kloss-and-us-olympic-team-stars-in-miami) on 2012-06-02 . Retrieved 2012-06-03 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) Sider, Sandra (2011-02-23). Leibovitz, Annie . Oxford Art Online. Oxford University Press. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1093/gao/9781884446054.article.t2090447 (https://doi.org/10.1093%2Fgao%2F9781884446054.article.t2090447) . v t e Fashion (/wiki/Fashion) articles Index of fashion articles (/wiki/Index_of_fashion_articles) General Environmental impact of fashion (/wiki/Environmental_impact_of_fashion) Fashion accessory (/wiki/Fashion_accessory) Fashion design (/wiki/Fashion_design) Fashion design copyright (/wiki/Fashion_design_copyright) Fashion matrix (/wiki/Fashion_matrix) Fashion museum (/wiki/Fashion_museum) Fashion plate (/wiki/Fashion_plate) Fashion tourism (/wiki/Fashion_tourism) Semiotics of fashion (/wiki/Semiotics_of_fashion) History (/wiki/History_of_fashion_design) History of clothing and textiles (/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles) History of Western fashion (/wiki/History_of_Western_fashion) History of fashion design (/wiki/History_of_fashion_design) Timeline of clothing and textiles technology (/wiki/Timeline_of_clothing_and_textiles_technology) 19th century (/wiki/19th_century_in_fashion) 21st century (/wiki/21st_century_in_fashion) Events (/wiki/List_of_fashion_events) Fashion show (/wiki/Fashion_show) Fashion week (/wiki/Fashion_week) Industry (/wiki/Fashion_industry) Awards (/wiki/Category:Fashion_awards) Clothing industry (/wiki/Clothing_industry) Designer clothing (/wiki/Designer_clothing) Digital fashion (/wiki/Digital_fashion) Fashion blog (/wiki/Fashion_blog) Fashion capital (/wiki/Fashion_capital) Fashion entrepreneur (/wiki/Fashion_entrepreneur) Fashion editor (/wiki/Fashion_editor) Fashion forecasting (/wiki/Fashion_forecasting) Fashion illustration (/wiki/Fashion_illustration) Fashion influencer (/wiki/Fashion_influencer) Fashion journalism (/wiki/Fashion_journalism) Fashion law (/wiki/Fashion_law) Fashion photography Fashion merchandising (/wiki/Fashion_merchandising) Fast fashion (/wiki/Fast_fashion) in China (/wiki/Fast_fashion_in_China) Red carpet fashion 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(/wiki/Black-and-white) Chromatic aberration (/wiki/Chromatic_aberration) Circle of confusion (/wiki/Circle_of_confusion) Color balance (/wiki/Color_balance) Color temperature (/wiki/Color_temperature) Depth of field (/wiki/Depth_of_field) Depth of focus (/wiki/Depth_of_focus) Exposure (/wiki/Exposure_(photography)) Exposure compensation (/wiki/Exposure_compensation) Exposure value (/wiki/Exposure_value) Zebra patterning (/wiki/Zebra_patterning) F-number (/wiki/F-number) Film format (/wiki/Film_format) large (/wiki/Large_format) medium (/wiki/Medium_format) Film speed (/wiki/Film_speed) Focal length (/wiki/Focal_length) Guide number (/wiki/Guide_number) Hyperfocal distance (/wiki/Hyperfocal_distance) Lens flare (/wiki/Lens_flare) Metering mode (/wiki/Metering_mode) Perspective distortion (/wiki/Perspective_distortion) Photograph (/wiki/Photograph) Photographic printing (/wiki/Photographic_printing) Albumen (/wiki/Albumen_print) Photographic processes 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Bobbin lace worked without a pricking This article needs additional citations for verification (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this article (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Freehand_lace) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Find sources: "Freehand lace" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Freehand+lace%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Freehand+lace%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Freehand+lace%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Freehand+lace%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Freehand+lace%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Freehand+lace%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( February 2022 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Freehand Lace Freehand lace is a bobbin lace (/wiki/Bobbin_lace) that works directly on the fabric of the lace pillow (/wiki/Lace_pillow) without using a pricked pattern. Very few pins are needed for this technique (in most cases, only at the two edges.) [1] (#cite_note-1) The very early bobbin laces were probably made freehand, as pins were scarce, coarse, and expensive. At first, the laces were purely utilitarian: “seaming” laces ( insertions (/w/index.php?title=Insertion_(lace)&action=edit&redlink=1) ) joining narrow widths of fabric, and toothed or scalloped laces reinforcing the edges ( edgings (/w/index.php?title=Edging_(lace)&action=edit&redlink=1) ). Many of the later freehand laces were also functional, but some areas produced very wide ornamental laces. Traces of freehand lace can be found nearly everywhere as they were part of the textiles (/wiki/Textile) produced in pre-industrial communities. However, production only survived in a few places, often because the lace was sold through handicraft organizations when it no longer adorned the peasant costume and household textiles. There are a few areas with a living tradition, like Dalarna (/wiki/Dalarna) and Skåne (/wiki/Sk%C3%A5ne) in Sweden (/wiki/Sweden) , several areas in Slovakia (/wiki/Slovakia) , Cogne (/wiki/Cogne) and Pescocostanzo (/wiki/Pescocostanzo) in Italy (/wiki/Italy) , and Mikhailov (/wiki/Mikhaylov,_Ryazan_Oblast) in Russia (/wiki/Russia) . Freehand lace is dense compared to lace made on a pattern. Wide areas without pins can be constructed by using certain techniques: the different parts of the lace must be made in the right order, and a triple half stitch can be used to secure the threads instead of a pin. In many areas, the laces are made wider by combining two or more patterns lengthwise. The lengths of the repeats are usually quite different. Many other laces have traits inherited from freehand lace, for example, the patterns and the working of the braids in Milanese lace (/wiki/Milanese_lace) , and the grounds without pins, and the exchange of workers in linen stitch in some of the Flemish laces (/wiki/Flemish_lace) . The term 'freehand lace' was first used as the translation of an Italian term in the English edition (1913) of Elisa Ricci (/w/index.php?title=Elisa_Ricci&action=edit&redlink=1) 's Antiche Trine Italiane . It is called 'lace without a pattern' in French, and 'numeric lace' in Russian, and the Slovaks have named it by the fact that it is produced on a bare pillow. In Swedish (/wiki/Swedish_language) , the verb used for composing a poem is also used for making freehand lace. The basic research on Freehand Lace was made by Bodil Tornehave (/w/index.php?title=Bodil_Tornehave&action=edit&redlink=1) of Denmark (/wiki/Denmark) , and published in her book Danske Frihåndskniplinger ( ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 87-7490-291-1 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/87-7490-291-1) , Danish Freehand Lace) in 1987. [2] (#cite_note-2) 'Freehand lace' is sometimes confused with ' free lace (/w/index.php?title=Free_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) ', which is a modern, artistic form of lace. v t e Lace (/wiki/Lace) types Needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Punto in Aria (/wiki/Punto_in_Aria) Point de Venise (/wiki/Point_de_Venise) Point de France (/wiki/Point_de_France) Alençon (/wiki/Alen%C3%A7on_lace) Aemilia Ars (/w/index.php?title=Aemilia_Ars&action=edit&redlink=1) Argentan (/wiki/Argentan_lace) Argentella (/wiki/Argentella) Armenian (/wiki/Armenian_needlelace) Burano (https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merletto%20di%20Burano) Halas lace (/wiki/Halas_lace) Hedebo embroidery (/wiki/Hedebo_embroidery) Hollie Point (/wiki/Hollie_Point) Nallıhan (/wiki/Nall%C4%B1han_silk_needlelace) Point de Gaze (/wiki/Point_de_Gaze) Kenmare Lace (/wiki/Kenmare_lace) Ñandutí (/wiki/%C3%91andut%C3%AD) Oya (/wiki/Oya_(lace)) Pag (/wiki/Pag_lace) Puncetto Valsesiano (/w/index.php?title=Puncetto_Valsesiano&action=edit&redlink=1) Tenerife (/wiki/Tenerife_lace) Youghal (/wiki/Youghal_lace) Embroidery (/wiki/Embroidery) Buratto (/wiki/Buratto) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Reticella (/wiki/Reticella) Limerick (/wiki/Limerick_lace) Needlerun net (/wiki/Needlerun_net) Tambour (/wiki/Tambour_lace) Cutwork (/wiki/Cutwork) Broderie anglaise (/wiki/Broderie_anglaise) Carrickmacross (/wiki/Carrickmacross_lace) Lefkara lace (/wiki/Lefkara_lace) Saba lace (/wiki/Saba_lace) Bobbin lace (/wiki/Bobbin_lace) Mesh grounds (/wiki/Mesh_grounded_bobbin_lace) Torchon (/wiki/Torchon_lace) Freehand Arras (/wiki/Arras_lace) Bayeux (/wiki/Bayeux_lace) Beeralu (/w/index.php?title=Beeralu&action=edit&redlink=1) Blonde (/wiki/Blonde_lace) Bucks point (/wiki/Bucks_point_lace) Chantilly (/wiki/Chantilly_lace) Chefoo (/w/index.php?title=Chefoo_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Cogne (/wiki/Cogne_lace) Tønder (/wiki/T%C3%B8nder_lace) Beveren (/wiki/Beveren_lace) Lille (/wiki/Lille_lace) Binche (/wiki/Binche_lace) Flanders (/wiki/Flanders_lace) Paris (/wiki/Paris_lace) Valenciennes (/wiki/Valenciennes_lace) Antwerp (/wiki/Antwerp_lace) Mechlin (/wiki/Mechlin_lace) Ipswich (/wiki/Ipswich_lace) 's Gravenmoer (/w/index.php?title=%27s_Gravenmoer_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Mundillo (/wiki/Mundillo) Guipure (/wiki/Guipure) Greek (/wiki/Greek_lace) Genoese (/wiki/Genoese_lace) Bedfordshire (/wiki/Bedfordshire_lace) Cluny (/wiki/Cluny_lace) Dentelle du Puy (https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dentelle_du_Puy) Liptov (/wiki/Liptov) Maltese (/wiki/Maltese_lace) Yak lace (/wiki/Yak_lace) Part laces (/wiki/Part_lace) Honiton (/wiki/Honiton_lace) Bruges (/wiki/Bruges_lace) Brussels (/wiki/Brussels_lace) Rosaline (/wiki/Rosaline_lace) Point d'Angleterre (/wiki/Brussels_lace#Point_d'Angleterre) Tape (/wiki/Bobbin_tape_lace) Cantù (/w/index.php?title=Cant%C3%B9_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Milanese (/wiki/Milanese_bobbin_lace) Hinojosa (/w/index.php?title=Hinojosa_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Russian (/wiki/Russian_lace) Idrija (/wiki/Idrija_lace) Schneeberg (/wiki/Schneeberg_lace) Peasant (/w/index.php?title=Peasant_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Tape lace (/wiki/Tape_lace) Mezzopunto (/w/index.php?title=Mezzopunto&action=edit&redlink=1) Princess (/wiki/Princess_lace) Renaissance (/wiki/Renaissance_lace) Battenberg (/wiki/Battenberg_lace) Romanian point (/wiki/Romanian_point_lace) Branscombe (/wiki/Branscombe_lace) Crocheted lace (/wiki/Crocheted_lace) Broomstick lace (/wiki/Broomstick_lace) Irish crochet (/wiki/Irish_lace) Hairpin (/wiki/Hairpin_lace) Filet crochet (/wiki/Filet_crochet) Orvieto lace (/w/index.php?title=Orvieto_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Machine (/wiki/Lace_machine) -made lace Bobbinet (/wiki/Bobbinet) Leavers (/wiki/Leavers_machine) Pusher (/wiki/Pusher_machine) Barmen (/wiki/Barmen_lace_machine) Curtain Machine (/wiki/Nottingham_lace_curtain_machine) Chemical (/wiki/Chemical_lace) Raschel (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Stocking Frame (/wiki/Stocking_frame) Warp Knit (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Other handmade laces Metal laces (/wiki/Metal_lace) Lace knitting (/wiki/Lace_knitting) Macramé (/wiki/Macram%C3%A9) Tatting (/wiki/Tatting) Punto a groppo (/wiki/Punto_a_groppo) Sprang (/wiki/Sprang) Liturgical lace (/wiki/Liturgical_lace) Media related to Lace (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Lace) at Wikimedia Commons Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Clothing portal (/wiki/Portal:Clothing) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Shepherd, Rosemary (2009). An Early Lace Workbook . Australia: Lace Daisy Press. p. 8. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-9591235-4-8 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Tornehave, Bodil (1987). Danske Frihåndskniplinger (in Danish). Notabene. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 87-7490-291-1 . 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Styles of dress where clothes are cheap and/or used This article has multiple issues. Please help improve it (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Thrift_store_chic) or discuss these issues on the talk page (/wiki/Talk:Thrift_store_chic) . ( Learn how and when to remove these template messages (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) This article needs additional citations for verification (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this article (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Thrift_store_chic) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. 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Statements consisting only of original research should be removed. ( July 2023 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) An example of a thrift store outfit. Thrift store chic refers to a style of dressing where clothes are cheap and/or used. Clothes are often purchased from thrift stores (/wiki/Thrift_stores) such as the Salvation Army (/wiki/Salvation_Army) , Goodwill (/wiki/Goodwill_Industries) , or Value Village (/wiki/Value_Village) . Originally popular among the hippies (/wiki/Hippie) of the 1960s, this fashion movement resurfaced during the mid-1980s among teenagers, and expanded into the 1990s with the growing popularity of such music and style influences including the grunge band Nirvana (/wiki/Nirvana_(band)) . Thrift store chic can be considered as an anti-fashion (/wiki/Anti-fashion) statement because it does not follow fashion trends (/wiki/Fashion_trends) and does not attempt to look expensive or new. Thrift store chic is often composed with vintage (/wiki/Vintage_(design)) T-shirts (striped tees and anything with vintage graphics, in particular), sweaters, flannel (/wiki/Flannel) 'lumberjack' shirts, and worn and torn jeans. This laid back, nonchalant, and aloof look became fashionable and trendy without attempting to. Originally worn for a variety of reasons, which include an homage, or attempt to resurrect earlier styles, or even in protest to the exploitation of third world (/wiki/Third_world) child workers (/wiki/Child_worker) in sweat shops (/wiki/Sweat_shop) . By the late 2000s many of the younger indie kids (/wiki/Indie_kid) wore thrift store clothes primarily for its ironic anti-fashion connotations. [1] (#cite_note-1) History [ edit ] Clothing in a charity shop (/wiki/Charity_shop) . In the 1990s, singers such as Kurt Cobain (/wiki/Kurt_Cobain) , Courtney Love (/wiki/Courtney_Love) , and Eddie Vedder (/wiki/Eddie_Vedder) promoted the look. Kurt Cobain's style included uncoordinated and non-brand-name items of clothing [2] (#cite_note-2) that created the look of a carelessly cool grunge rock (/wiki/Grunge_rock) star. Clothes often had holes or tears in them and were worn in many layers, which hid the body. [3] (#cite_note-3) Cobain's modest style contrasted from the aggressive and glamorous style of bands such as Guns N' Roses (/wiki/Guns_N%27_Roses) . Fans of Nirvana found it easy to emulate his style, thus identifying themselves and the grunge movement. His thrift store style also reflected an ironic stance against corporate culture. Entering the 2000s, this look because associated with musical scenes including indie rock (/wiki/Indie_rock) and emo (/wiki/Emo) gradually spreading to the hipster movement (/wiki/Hipster_(contemporary_subculture)) . The hipster movement is popular among people in their 20s and 30s whose style attempts to reject mainstream trends. The hipster movement embraced thrift store chic because of its love for vintage items, especially clothing. Items that became popular for indie girls included flowery cotton dresses, cardigans, keffiyehs (/wiki/Keffiyeh) , and eyeglasses chosen deliberately for their unfashionable connotations. [4] (#cite_note-4) Hipster-thrift-store-chic embraces nostalgia (/wiki/Nostalgia) and irony by combining old trucker-caps and vintage bowling t-shirts with worn luxury goods like leather jackets (/wiki/Leather_jacket) , old military dress uniforms (/wiki/Dress_uniform) as a protest against the war in Iraq, or used business wear, such as tweed cloth (/wiki/Tweed_cloth) sportcoats (/wiki/Sportcoat) . [5] (#cite_note-5) With the stock market crash of 2008, shopping at thrift stores became more widely accepted. Bragging about how much an item of clothing cost was no longer about how expensive it was, but rather how cheap it cost. [6] (#cite_note-6) Showing off expensive clothing when people were losing their jobs was no longer tactful. In the United States, resale stores experienced an average of 35% increase in sales. Purchasing used clothing has lost much of its stigma also due to the growing environmental movement (/wiki/Environmental_movement) towards consumption. [7] (#cite_note-7) In 2013, the Macklemore (/wiki/Macklemore) and Lewis's single " Thrift Shop (/wiki/Thrift_Shop) " reached number 1 on the U.S. Billboard Hot 100 chart. The song glorifies shopping at thrift shops and denounces expensive brands, such as Gucci, as "getting tricked by a business." [8] (#cite_note-8) Social media [ edit ] Multiple social media platforms have content covering thrift culture. YouTube (/wiki/YouTube) thrift store hauls (/wiki/Haul_video) have helped increase the popularity of thrift shopping. [9] (#cite_note-:0-9) A notable YouTuber who has contributed significantly to thrifting's rise in popularity is Emma Chamberlain (/wiki/Emma_Chamberlain) . [9] (#cite_note-:0-9) Emma Chamberlain has multiple videos on her channel where she not only visits multiple thrift store locations, but she interacts with her viewers by breaking the fourth wall and sharing her style. The rise in thrift store's popularity and presence in social media was most notably seen after 2015 [9] (#cite_note-:0-9) on websites such as Twitter, Pinterest, and YouTube. On the social media platform TikTok (/wiki/TikTok) , users not only share thrifting tips, style, and "lucky scores", but they often use the term "scavenger hunt" to describe the ordeal. Thrifting has been popularized to the point where individuals sometimes use the term "thrifting" as a verb, to describe their thrift store shopping trip. The use of social media has allowed resellers (/wiki/Reseller) to buy clothing from thrift stores and resell them on online platforms and social media sites, which is known as reselling. [10] (#cite_note-10) Some established thrift stores have also moved to selling their products on online platforms, such as eBay (/wiki/EBay) . Some of these thrift stores include select locations of larger branches or companies. Upcycling [ edit ] Thrift store chic is also popular among people who enjoy creating their own outfits from pieces of used clothing. This DIY (do-it-yourself) approach creates original articles of clothing that can be very personalized. For example, in the 1986 movie Pretty in Pink (/wiki/Pretty_in_Pink) , Molly Ringwald (/wiki/Molly_Ringwald) 's character, Andie Walsh, [11] (#cite_note-11) is fond of taking clothing from thrift stores and creating a unique and eclectic wardrobe. One very memorable article is the prom dress she creates, made from merging two separate dresses. A study conducted at the University of Akron (/wiki/University_of_Akron) , set out to find whether altering and upcycling (/wiki/Upcycling) clothes from a thrift store would make them more appealing to consumers. [12] (#cite_note-:1-12) Their survey results showed 38% of participants reported they would buy an item that was upcycled. Upcycling has not only become increasingly popular for thrifted clothing, but also for luxury brands which have started reusing fabrics from previous collections to upcycle them. [13] (#cite_note-13) Sustainability [ edit ] Main article: Environmental sustainability of vintage fashion (/wiki/Environmental_sustainability_of_vintage_fashion) While the previous motive for shopping at thrift stores among consumers were budget and necessity, sustainability (/wiki/Sustainability) is the new reason most consumers shop at thrift stores. [12] (#cite_note-:1-12) The National Association of Retail and Thrift Shops has attributed the favorability of thrift shops has increased due to awareness of the need for waste reduction (/wiki/Waste_minimisation) and environmental impact. [12] (#cite_note-:1-12) They have also credited generation-z (/wiki/Generation_Z) for popularizing thrift shopping as a sustainability effort. [12] (#cite_note-:1-12) Other sustainability methods surrounding thrifted clothing, and clothing in general, include clothes swapping, renting clothing pieces, using old clothes as cleaning rags, and recycling clothes. [14] (#cite_note-14) See also [ edit ] Vintage (design) (/wiki/Vintage_(design)) Vintage clothing (/wiki/Vintage_clothing) Mitumba clothing (/wiki/Mitumba_clothing) Garage punk fashion (/wiki/Garage_punk_fashion) 1970s teenage fashion (/wiki/1970s_teenage_fashion) 1990s in Western fashion (/wiki/1990s_in_Western_fashion) 2000s in Western fashion (/wiki/2000s_in_Western_fashion) 2010s in Western fashion (/wiki/2010s_in_Western_fashion) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Cuddy, Alison (15 May 2013). "Searching for sweat-free fashion in Chicago" (https://web.archive.org/web/20130812035504/http://www.wbez.org/blogs/alison-cuddy/2013-05/searching-sweat-free-fashion-chicago-107175) . WBEZ 91.5 Chicago . Archived from the original (http://www.wbez.org/blogs/alison-cuddy/2013-05/searching-sweat-free-fashion-chicago-107175) on 12 August 2013. ^ (#cite_ref-2) Havlin, Laura (28 September 2011). "Kurt Cobain" (http://www.anothermag.com/current/view/1425/Kurt_Cobain) . AnOther . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "90s Grunge Fashion Tips and Music Guide" (http://www.mookychick.co.uk/alternative-fashion/style/grunge-fashion.php) . mookychick.co.uk . 3 September 2014. ^ (#cite_ref-4) Gutman, Amy (21 September 2013). "The meaning of a five dollar dress" (http://archive.boston.com/jobs/plan_b_nation/2013/09/the_meaning_of_a_five_dollar_d.html) . Boston.com . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Rayner, Alex (14 October 2010). "Why do people hate hipsters?" (http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2010/oct/14/hate-hipsters-blogs) . The Guardian . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Zekas, Rita (22 January 2009). "Thrift store chic" (https://www.thestar.com/life/thrift-store-chic/article_34242875-dbc5-5f30-b0f3-81040f810742.html) . Toronto Star (/wiki/Toronto_Star) . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Schlumpf, Heidi (January 21, 2011). "Thrift store spirituality". National Catholic Reporter . 27 : 20–23. ^ (#cite_ref-8) "Macklemore - Thrift Shop Lyrics | Lyrics.com" (https://www.lyrics.com/lyric/29743604/Macklemore/Thrift+Shop) . www.lyrics.com . Retrieved 2023-08-31 . ^ Jump up to: a b c "Social Media Shifts Trends in Thrift and Resale Culture – Buzzsaw Magazine" (https://buzzsawmag.org/2020/05/20/social-media-shifts-trends-in-thrift-and-resale-culture/) . Retrieved 2023-04-21 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) Leblanc, Madeleine (April 19, 2021). "Madthrifters: An Integrated Social Media Marketing Campaign With An Emphasis on Secondhand Fashion" (https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/honorstheses/293/) . University of Nebraska Lincoln . Retrieved April 21, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Pretty in Pink" (https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0091790/) . IMDb (/wiki/IMDb) . ^ Jump up to: a b c d Scott, Mason; High, Brett; Marcum, Sophia; Schiffli, Rachel; Flowers, Andrew (2022-01-01). "Upscaling Textile Upcycling" (https://ideaexchange.uakron.edu/honors_research_projects/1572) . Williams Honors College, Honors Research Projects . ^ (#cite_ref-13) Phau, Ian; Akintimehin, Olamide Oluwabusola; Lee, Sean (September 2022). "Investigating consumers' brand desirability for upcycled luxury brands" (https://doi.org/10.1002%2Fjsc.2523) . Strategic Change . 31 (5): 523–531. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1002/jsc.2523 (https://doi.org/10.1002%2Fjsc.2523) . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 1086-1718 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/1086-1718) . S2CID (/wiki/S2CID_(identifier)) 251602125 (https://api.semanticscholar.org/CorpusID:251602125) . ^ (#cite_ref-14) Kudus, Nazima Versay (October 2022). "Waste not want not: Putting unwanted clothing into good use" (https://ir.uitm.edu.my/id/eprint/68482/1/68482.pdf) (PDF) . Image & Lifestyle . 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Cone-shaped pointed hat, worn by Jews in Medieval Europe and parts of the Islamic world This article is about the headgear of medieval European Jews. For the modern Jewish skullcap, see Kippah (/wiki/Kippah) . The Jewish poet Süßkind von Trimberg (/wiki/S%C3%BC%C3%9Fkind_von_Trimberg) (on the right) wearing a Jewish hat ( Codex Manesse (/wiki/Codex_Manesse) , fourteenth century) The Jewish hat , also known as the Jewish cap , Judenhut ( German (/wiki/German_language) ) or Latin (/wiki/Latin_language) pileus cornutus ("horned skullcap"), was a cone-shaped pointed hat (/wiki/Pointed_hat) , often white or yellow, worn by Jews in Medieval Europe (/wiki/Medieval_Europe) . Initially worn by choice, its wearing was enforced in some places in Europe after the 1215 Fourth Council of the Lateran (/wiki/Fourth_Council_of_the_Lateran) for adult male Jews (/wiki/Jew) to wear while outside a ghetto (/wiki/Ghetto) to distinguish them from others. Like the Phrygian cap (/wiki/Phrygian_cap) that it often resembles, the hat may have originated in pre-Islamic Persia (/wiki/Persia) , as a similar hat was worn by Babylonian Jews (/wiki/Babylonian_Jews) . Modern distinctive or characteristic Jewish forms of male headgear include the kippah (/wiki/Kippah) (skullcap), shtreimel (/wiki/Shtreimel) , spodik (/wiki/Spodik) , kolpik (/wiki/Kolpik) , and kashkets (/wiki/Kashket) ; see also Hasidic clothing (/wiki/Hasidic_Judaism#Appearance) . Europe [ edit ] Shape [ edit ] Circumcision of Isaac (/wiki/Isaac) , in the Jewish manuscript the " Regensburg (/wiki/Regensburg) Pentateuch", Germany, c. 1300 The shape of the hat is variable. Sometimes, especially in the thirteenth century, it is a soft Phrygian cap (/wiki/Phrygian_cap) , but rather more common in the early period is a hat with a round circular brim—apparently stiff—curving round to a tapering top that ends in a point, [1] (#cite_note-1) called the "so-called oil-can (/wiki/Oil_can) type" by Sara Lipton. [2] (#cite_note-2) Smaller versions perching on top of the head are also seen. Sometimes a ring of some sort encircles the hat an inch or two over the top of the head. In the fourteenth century a ball or bobble appears at the top of the hat, and the tapering end becomes more of a stalk with a relatively constant width. [3] (#cite_note-3) The top of the hat becomes flatter, or rounded (as in the Codex Manesse picture). The materials used are unclear from art, and may have included metal and woven plant materials as well as stiffened textiles and leather. By the end of the Middle Ages the hat is steadily replaced by a variety of headgear including exotic flared Eastern style hats, turbans and, from the fifteenth century, wide flat hats and large berets. In pictures of Biblical scenes these sometimes represent attempts to portray the contemporary dress of the time worn in the Holy Land (/wiki/Holy_Land) , but all the same styles are to be seen in some images of contemporary European scenes. Where a distinctive pointed Jewish hat remains it has become much less defined in shape, and baggy. Loose turbans, wide flat hats, and berets, as well as new fur hat styles from the Pale of Settlement (/wiki/Pale_of_Settlement) , remain associated with Jews up to the eighteenth century and beyond. History [ edit ] Figure in a Jewish hat holding a citron (/wiki/Citron) ( etrog (/wiki/Etrog) ) for the holiday of sukkot (/wiki/Sukkot) in a medieval Hebrew calendar (/wiki/Hebrew_calendar) . The origin of the hat is unclear, although it is often seen as ultimately evolving from the same origin as the mitre (/wiki/Mitre) , perhaps from late Roman styles, which may themselves derive from the hats of ancient Persian clergy. Hats worn (by Pharaoh's advisors, among others) in the illustrations to the Old English Hexateuch (/wiki/Old_English_Hexateuch) , a manuscript of around 1030, have been seen as an early form, and they appear in the Mosan (/wiki/Mosan_art) Stavelot Bible (/wiki/Stavelot_Bible) of 1097. [4] (#cite_note-4) The first recorded instance of a “Jewish hat” or “Judenhut” was around the 11th century in the Flanders region. [5] (#cite_note-5) The wearing of these distinctive hats originate from European Christians who wore such hats before mandating that it become a symbol for European Jews. According to Sara Lipton, "The few surviving early medieval references to Jewish clothing likewise suggest that Jews dressed no differently from their Gentile neighbor". [6] (#cite_note-6) In Europe, the Jewish hat was worn in France from the eleventh century, and Italy from the twelfth. The Gniezno Doors (/wiki/Gniezno_Doors) were probably made in Germany around 1175, and two Jewish merchants depicted on the doors wear them. Under Jewish law (/wiki/Kippah#Jewish_law) , observant Jews should keep their heads covered almost all the time, [7] (#cite_note-7) and indeed men of all religious groups tended to wear hats when outside in the Middle Ages (/wiki/Middle_Ages) to a much greater extent than today. [8] (#cite_note-8) Unlike the yellow badge (/wiki/Yellow_badge) , the Jewish hat is often seen in illustrated Hebrew manuscripts, and was later included by German Jews in their seals and coats of arms (/wiki/Coats_of_arms) , suggesting that at least initially it was regarded by European Jews as "an element of traditional garb, rather than an imposed discrimination". [9] (#cite_note-9) The hat is also worn in Christian pictures by figures such as Saint Joseph (/wiki/Saint_Joseph) and sometimes Jesus (/wiki/Jesus) (see below). However, once "made obligatory, the hat, hitherto deliberately different from hats worn by Christians, was viewed by Jews in a negative light". [10] (#cite_note-10) A provincial synod (/wiki/Synod) held in Breslau (/wiki/Breslau) in 1267 said that since Jews had stopped wearing the pointed hats they used to wear, this would be made compulsory. [11] (#cite_note-11) Christian painting of an Old Testament sacrifice, 1483, with various forms of Jewish hat, as well as turbans and other exotic styles. By this date it is hard to judge how illustrations like these relate to actual contemporary dress in Europe, or are an attempt to recreate historically appropriate ancient dress from styles of the contemporary Middle East. The Fourth Council of the Lateran (/wiki/Fourth_Council_of_the_Lateran) of 1215 ruled that Jews and Muslims must be distinguishable by their dress (Latin "habitus"), the rationale given being: "In some provinces the dress of Jews and Saracens (/wiki/Saracen) distinguishes them from Christians, but in others a degree of confusion has arisen, so that they cannot be recognised by any distinguishing marks. As a result, in error Christians have sexual intercourse with Jewish or Saracen women, and Jews and Saracens have intercourse with Christian women. In order that the crime of such an accursed mingling shall not in future have an excuse and an evasion under the pretext of error, we resolve that (Jews and Saracens) of both sexes in all Christian lands shall distinguish themselves publicly from other people by their dress. According to the testimony of scripture, such a precept was already made by Moses (Lev.19.19; Deut.22.5.11)". [12] (#cite_note-12) Local regulations [ edit ] However, not all European medieval monarchs followed these pontifical resolutions. King Andrew II of Hungary (/wiki/Andrew_II_of_Hungary) (1177–1235), ignored on several occasions demands from the Pope, which gained him excommunication twice. At that time many Jews were in royal service. The excommunications even forbade Andrew II from being present at his daughter Elisabeth of Hungary (/wiki/Elisabeth_of_Hungary) 's canonization (/wiki/Canonization) in Germany. [13] (#cite_note-13) The hat was mostly found north of the Alps (/wiki/Alps) , despite some of the earliest examples being seen in Italy, and was not found in Spain. Additional rules were imposed by local rulers at various times. The council decision was confirmed by the Council of Vienne (/wiki/Council_of_Vienne) of 1311–12. In 1267 the hat was made compulsory in Vienna (/wiki/Vienna) . A doctor was given a temporary dispensation from wearing it in Venice (/wiki/Venice) in 1528, at the request of various distinguished patients [14] (#cite_note-14) (at the time in Venice each profession had special clothing rules). Pope Paul IV (/wiki/Pope_Paul_IV) ordered in 1555 that in the Papal States (/wiki/Papal_States) it must be a yellow, peaked hat, and from 1567 for twenty years it was compulsory in Lithuania (/wiki/Lithuania) , but by this period it is rarely seen in most of Europe. [15] (#cite_note-15) As an outcome of the Jewish Emancipation (/wiki/Jewish_Emancipation) its use was formally discontinued, although it had been declining long before that, and is not often seen after 1500; the various forms of the yellow badge (/wiki/Yellow_badge) were far more long-lasting. [16] (#cite_note-16) This was an alternative form of distinguishing mark, not found in Europe before 1215, and later reintroduced by the Nazis (/wiki/Nazism) . It was probably more widely required by local laws, for example English legislation concentrated on the badge, which took the form of the two Tablets of the Law (/wiki/Tablets_of_the_Law) . In some pictures from all parts of the Middle Ages (/wiki/Middle_Ages) , rabbis or other Jewish leaders wear the Jewish hat when other Jews do not, which may reflect reality. [17] (#cite_note-17) Such examples of this hat-wearing can be seen nearly 350 years after the Fourth Lateran Council. Regions divided into many states, such as Renaissance Italy and Germany, had local laws in this as in other fields, leading to difficulties for travellers who might not be aware of the local regulations. For example, in Italy a Leone Segele was arrested in Lodi (/wiki/Lodi,_Lombardy) for wearing a black hat, as was acceptable in his home city of Genoa (/wiki/Genoa) , instead of a yellow one, required in Lodi. [18] (#cite_note-18) These dress codes became a normal part of what it meant to be a Jew living inside Catholic dominated European societies. [19] (#cite_note-19) In a late addition to local rulings, the very strict and locally unpopular Counter Reformation (/wiki/Counter_Reformation) Pope Paul IV (/wiki/Pope_Paul_IV) ordered in 1555 that all Jews in Rome were required to wear the yellow hat "under the severest penalties." When he died, his statue, erected before the Campidoglio (/wiki/Campidoglio) just months before, had a yellow hat placed on it (similar to the yellow hat Paul IV had forced Jews to wear in public). After a mock trial, the statue was decapitated. [20] (#cite_note-20) It was then thrown into the Tiber (/wiki/Tiber) . [21] (#cite_note-Levant719-21) In art [ edit ] Circumcision of Christ (/wiki/Circumcision_of_Christ) , Austria (/wiki/Austria) , c. 1340 The Jewish hat is frequently used in medieval art to denote Jews of the Biblical period. Often the Jews so shown are those shown in an unfavourable light by the story being depicted, such as the money-changers expelled by Jesus from the Temple (Matthew 21:12–17), but this is by no means always the case. The husband of Mary, Saint Joseph (/wiki/Saint_Joseph) , is often shown wearing a Jewish hat, and Jesus himself may be shown wearing one, especially in depictions of the Meeting at Emmaus (/wiki/Meeting_at_Emmaus) , where his disciples do not recognise him at first (Luke.24.13-32). [22] (#cite_note-22) Sometimes it is used to distinguish Jews from other peoples such as Egyptians or Philistines. It is often depicted in art from times and places where the hat does not seem to have actually been commonly worn by Jews, "as an external and largely arbitrary sign devised by Christian iconographers", one of a number of useful visual ways of identifying types of persons in medieval art. [23] (#cite_note-23) In notable contrast to forms of Jewish badge (/wiki/Yellow_badge) , the Jewish hat is often seen in Hebrew manuscript illuminations (/wiki/Manuscript_illumination) such as Haggadot (/wiki/Haggadah) made in medieval Europe ( picture above ). In the Birds' Head Haggadah (/wiki/Birds%27_Head_Haggadah) (Germany, c. 1300), the figures wear the hat when sitting to eat the Passover Seder (/wiki/Passover_Seder) . [24] (#cite_note-24) However, in Christian art the wearing of the hat can be sometimes be seen to express an attitude to those wearing it. In one extreme example in a manuscript of the Bible moralisée (/wiki/Bible_moralis%C3%A9e) , an illustration shows the rod of Aaron (/wiki/Aaron) , which has turned into a serpent, turning on the Pharaoh (/wiki/Pharaoh) 's magicians ( Exodus (/wiki/Book_of_Exodus) , 7:10-12); Moses (/wiki/Moses) and Aaron do not wear the hat but the Egyptian magicians do, signifying not that they are Jews, but that they are like Jews, i.e. on the wrong side of the dispute. The paired roundel (/wiki/Roundel) below shows two tonsured (/wiki/Tonsure) clerics confronting a group of hat-wearing Jews, and has a Latin caption explaining "Moses and Aaron signify good prelates who, in explaining the words of the Gospel, devour the false words of the Jews". [25] (#cite_note-25) In another scene showing the conversion of Jews and other non-Christians at the end of the world, a series of figures show different stages of removing their hats to signify the stages they have reached in their conversion, so that "the hat does not just identify Jews; it functions independently of its placement to signify infidelity and recalcitrant Jewishness". [26] (#cite_note-26) Other scenes in Christian art where some characters often wear it include the Circumcision of Christ (/wiki/Circumcision_of_Christ) and Saint Helena (/wiki/Helena,_mother_of_Constantine_I#Sainthood) Finding the True Cross , where the medieval legend specified a Jewish character. The Jewish hat worn in reality was probably less pointy than is usually shown in art. William III the Brave (/wiki/William_III,_Landgrave_of_Thuringia) (1425–1482) of Meissen (/wiki/Meissen) , minted a silver groschen (/wiki/Groschen) known as the Judenkopf Groschen. Its obverse portrait shows a man with a pointed beard wearing a Judenhut, which the populace took as depicting a typical Jew. [27] (#cite_note-27) Transfer [ edit ] When the plague (/wiki/Black_Death) broke out in 1349, Jews were expelled from much of German-speaking Europe. The pointed hat which had formerly been used to depict Jews, now was also used for other outcasts. Naomi Lubrich claims that the pointed hat was transferred in iconography to criminals, pagans, and other non-Christian outsiders, in particular sorcerers [28] (#cite_note-28) and dwarfs. [29] (#cite_note-29) Among the examples are laws, for example in Hungary in 1421, according to which people convicted of sorcery were forced to put on a Jewish hat for public shaming. Regulated dress for Jews in the Islamic world [ edit ] For dhimmis (/wiki/Dhimmi) to be clearly distinguishable from Muslims in public, Muslim rulers often prohibited dhimmis from wearing certain types of clothing, while forcing them to put on highly distinctive garments, usually of a bright colour. These included headgear, though this was not usually the primary element. At some times the regulated dress of Christians and Jews differed, at others it did not. As in Europe, the degree to which the recorded regulations were enforced is hard to assess, and probably varied greatly. Islamic scholars cited the Pact of Umar (/wiki/Pact_of_Umar_II) in which Christians supposedly took an obligation to "always dress in the same way wherever we may be, and… bind the zunar [wide belt] round our waists". Al-Nawawi required dhimmis to wear a piece of yellow cloth and a belt, as well as a metallic ring, inside public baths. [30] (#cite_note-30) [ better source needed ] Regulations on dhimmi clothing varied frequently to please the whims of the ruler. Although the initiation of such regulations is usually attributed to Umar I, historical evidence suggests that it was the Abbasid caliphs who pioneered this practice. In 850 the caliph (/wiki/Caliph) al‑Mutawakkil ordered Christians and Jews to wear both a sash called a zunnar (/wiki/Zunnar) and a distinctive kind of shawl or headscarf called a taylasin (/w/index.php?title=Taylasin&action=edit&redlink=1) (the Christians had already been required to wear the sash). [31] (#cite_note-31) He also required them to wear small bells in public baths. In the eleventh century, the Fatimid (/wiki/Fatimid) caliph Al-Hakim (/wiki/Al-Hakim_bi-Amr_Allah) , whose various extreme decrees and actions are usually attributed to mental illness, ordered Christians to put on half-meter wooden crosses and Jews to wear wooden calves (/wiki/Golden_calf) around their necks. In the late twelfth century, Almohad ruler Abu Yusuf (/wiki/Yaqub,_Almohad_Caliph) ordered the Jews of the Maghreb to wear dark blue garments with long sleeves and saddle-like caps. His grandson Abdallah al-Adil (/wiki/Abdallah_al-Adil) made a concession after appeals from the Jews, relaxing the required clothing to yellow garments and turbans. In the sixteenth century, Jews of the Maghreb could only wear sandals made of rushes and black turbans or caps with an extra red piece of cloth. [32] (#cite_note-Bat_Ye’or_2002,_pp._91–96-32) Ottoman (/wiki/Ottoman_Empire) sultans continued to regulate the clothing of their non-Muslim subjects. In 1577, Murad III (/wiki/Murad_III) issued a firman (/wiki/Firman_(decree)) forbidding Jews and Christians from wearing dresses, turbans, and sandals. In 1580, he changed his mind, restricting the previous prohibition to turbans and requiring dhimmis to wear black shoes; Jews and Christians also had to wear red and black hats, respectively. Observing in 1730 that some Muslims took to the habit of wearing caps similar to those of the Jews, Mahmud I (/wiki/Mahmud_I) ordered the hanging of the perpetrators. Mustafa III (/wiki/Mustafa_III) personally helped to enforce his decrees regarding clothes. In 1758, he was walking incognito in Istanbul (/wiki/Istanbul) and ordered the beheading of a Jew and an Armenian (/wiki/Armenians) seen dressed in forbidden attire. The last Ottoman decree affirming the distinctive clothing for dhimmis was issued in 1837 by Mahmud II (/wiki/Mahmud_II) . Discriminatory clothing was not enforced in those Ottoman provinces where Christians were the majority, such as Greece (/wiki/Greece) and the Balkans (/wiki/Balkans) . [32] (#cite_note-Bat_Ye’or_2002,_pp._91–96-32) Gallery [ edit ] Saint Helena (/wiki/Helena_(empress)) Finding the True Cross (/wiki/True_Cross) , Weissenau Abbey (/wiki/Weissenau_Abbey) , Germany, c. 1170 Moses (/wiki/Moses) and the Bronze Serpent (/wiki/Bronze_Serpent) , German, c. 1225–1230 Daniel (/wiki/Daniel_(biblical_figure)) in stained glass (/wiki/Stained_glass) , Augsburg (/wiki/Augsburg) , Germany, first half of twelfth century German Jews of the twelfth century. From Herrad von Landsperg (/wiki/Herrad_of_Landsberg) , Hortus deliciarum (/wiki/Hortus_deliciarum) Burning and killing of Jews by the Knight Volkmar at the time of the First Crusade (/wiki/First_Crusade) ( Prague (/wiki/Prague) ) twelfth-century German Nativity of Mary (/wiki/Mary,_mother_of_Jesus) with Mary's father Joachim (/wiki/Joachim) wearing the hat Coat of arms of Judenburg (/wiki/Judenburg) , Austria (/wiki/Austria) . Valdemar Atterdag holding Visby to ransom, 1361 (/wiki/Valdemar_Atterdag_holding_Visby_to_ransom,_1361) , by Carl Gustaf Hellqvist (/wiki/Carl_Gustaf_Hellqvist) (1851–1890) features a Jewish merchant wearing a Judenhut (at right). Adoration of the Magi by Hieronymus Bosch (/wiki/Adoration_of_the_Magi_(Bosch,_Madrid)) , with the infant Christ being shadowed by the Jewish "false Messiah", who is seen half-naked wearing a pointed cap in the stable doorway. Judenkopf Groschen See also [ edit ] Judaism portal (/wiki/Portal:Judaism) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Conical hat (/wiki/Conical_hat) Court Jew (/wiki/Court_Jew) Dhimmi (/wiki/Dhimmi) laws Ethnic segregation (/wiki/Ethnic_segregation) Fulani hat (/wiki/Fulani_hat) Ghetto (/wiki/Ghetto) , Melah List of hats and headgear (/wiki/List_of_hats_and_headgear) Ottoman Millet system (/wiki/Millet_(Ottoman_Empire)) Tembel hat (/wiki/Tembel_hat) Yellow badge (/wiki/Yellow_badge) Clothing laws by country (/wiki/Clothing_laws_by_country) Witch hat (/wiki/Witch_hat) Notes [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) For example as worn by the Old Testament figures on the Klosterneuburg Altar (/wiki/Klosterneuburg_Monastery) of 1181 ^ (#cite_ref-2) Lipton, 16 ^ (#cite_ref-3) Occasionally small straight "stalks" are seen earlier, e.g . Schreckenberg:77, illus 4, of c. 1170 ^ (#cite_ref-4) Silverman, 55-56 ^ (#cite_ref-5) Silverman, Eric (2013). A Cultural History of Jewish Dress . Bloomsburg Academic. pp. 55–57. ^ (#cite_ref-6) Sara, Lipton (2014). Dark Mirror: The Medieval Origins of Anti-Jewish Iconography . Henry Holt and Company. p. 15. ^ (#cite_ref-7) Although this may not yet have acquired the force of law at this period. See Roth op cit. ^ (#cite_ref-8) Silverman, 56 ^ (#cite_ref-9) Piponnier and Mane, p. 138; Silverman, 57; Seals from Norman Roth, op cit. Also Schreckenburg p. 15 & passim. ^ (#cite_ref-10) Piponnier & Mane, 138 (quoted) ^ (#cite_ref-11) Medieval Jewish History: An Encyclopedia. Edited by Norman Roth, Routledge (http://www.myjewishlearning.com/history_community/Medieval/MedievalSocialTO/Clothing/JewishHat.htm) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20080225013546/http://www.myjewishlearning.com/history_community/Medieval/MedievalSocialTO/Clothing/JewishHat.htm) 2008-02-25 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ^ (#cite_ref-12) Schreckenburg, p.15 ^ (#cite_ref-13) Fehér, J. (1967). Magyar Középkori Inkvizicio. Buenos Aires, Argentina: Editorial Transilvania. ^ (#cite_ref-14) "Mantino, Jacob ben Samuel" (http://www.jewishencyclopedia.com/articles/10379-mantino-jacob-ben-samuel) . Jewish Encyclopedia . Retrieved 5 July 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) Papal Bull Cum nimis absurdum (/wiki/Cum_nimis_absurdum) . Lithuania, JE: "Yellow badge". ^ (#cite_ref-16) Schreckenburg:288-296 ^ (#cite_ref-17) For example in the enigmatic illustrations to the Golden Haggadah of Darmstadt (/wiki/Darmstadt) , of about 1300. See sacrifice illustration below also. ^ (#cite_ref-18) Cassen, Flora (2019). "Jewish Travelers in early Modern Italy: Visible and Invisible Resistance to The Jewish Badge". {{ cite journal (/wiki/Template:Cite_journal) }} : Cite journal requires |journal= ( help (/wiki/Help:CS1_errors#missing_periodical) ) ^ (#cite_ref-19) Cassen, Flora. “Jewish Travelers in Early Modern Italy: Visible and Invisible Resistance to The Jewish Badge.” (https://www.academia.edu/en/41111705/Jewish_Travelers_in_Early_Modern_Italy_Visible_and_Invisible_Resistance_to_the_Jewish_Bad) Academia, November 28, 2019. ^ (#cite_ref-20) Stow, Kenneth (2001). Theater of Acculturation: The Roman Ghetto in the 16th Century . Seattle: University of Washington Press. p. 41. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0295980256 . ^ (#cite_ref-Levant719_21-0) Setton, Kenneth M. (1984). The Papacy and the Levant, 1204-1571. Volume IV: The Sixteenth Century . Philadelphia: American Philosophical Society. p. 719. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0871691149 . ^ (#cite_ref-22) Schreckenburg: 125–196. A twefth-century English example is in the Getty Museum (http://www.getty.edu/art/gettyguide/artObjectDetails?artobj=311098&handle=book&pg=3) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20100607133945/http://www.getty.edu/art/gettyguide/artObjectDetails?artobj=311098&handle=book&pg=3) 2010-06-07 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ^ (#cite_ref-23) Lipton, 16-19, 17 quoted ^ (#cite_ref-24) Meyer Schapiro (/wiki/Meyer_Schapiro) , Selected Papers, volume 3, Late Antique, Early Christian and Mediaeval Art , pp. 380-86, 1980, Chatto & Windus, London, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-7011-2514-4 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-7011-2514-4) ; Lipton, 16-17 ^ (#cite_ref-25) Lipton, 18; the image is on folio 25c of Vienna ONB Codex 1179 Bible moralisée . ^ (#cite_ref-26) Lipton, 19; ONB Codex 1179, f. 181a ^ (#cite_ref-27) Saurma no. 4386 ^ (#cite_ref-28) Naomi, Lubrich. " (https://www.asdiwal.ch/revue/asdiwal-no10-5.php) "From Judenhut to Zauberhut: A Jewish Sign Proliferates", in: Asdiwal, 10, 2015, 136–162" (https://www.asdiwal.ch/revue/asdiwal-no10-5.php) . ^ (#cite_ref-29) Lubrich, Naomi. " (https://www.jstor.org/stable/24709777) "The Wandering Hat: Iterations of the Medieval Jewish Hat", in: Jewish History, 29 (2015), 203–244" (https://www.jstor.org/stable/24709777) . JSTOR (/wiki/JSTOR_(identifier)) 24709777 (https://www.jstor.org/stable/24709777) . ^ (#cite_ref-30) Al-Nawawi, Minhadj , quoted in Bat Ye'or (/wiki/Bat_Ye%27or) (2002). Islam and Dhimmitude. Where Civilizations Collide . Madison/Teaneck, J: Fairleigh Dickinson University Press/Associated University Presses. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-8386-3943-7 . p. 91 ^ (#cite_ref-31) Medieval Jewish History: An Encyclopedia. Edited by Norman Roth, Routledge (http://www.myjewishlearning.com/history_community/Medieval/MedievalSocialTO/Clothing.htm) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20081024212928/http://www.myjewishlearning.com/history_community/Medieval/MedievalSocialTO/Clothing.htm) 2008-10-24 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ^ Jump up to: a b Bat Ye’or (2002), pp. 91–96 References [ edit ] Parts of this article are translated from de:Judenhut (https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Judenhut) of 13 July 2005 Judenhut at the Jewish Encyclopaedia (http://www.jewishencyclopedia.com/view.jsp?artid=684&letter=J) Lipton, Sara (/wiki/Sara_Lipton) , Images of Intolerance: The Representation of Jews and Judaism in the Bible moralisée , 1999, University of California Press, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0520215516 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0520215516) , 9780520215511, Amazon preview (https://www.amazon.com/gp/reader/0520215516/ref=sr_1_149?p=S00O&keywords=medieval+iconography&ie=UTF8&qid=1338857416#reader_0520215516) Lubrich, Naomi, “The Wandering Hat: Iterations of the Medieval Jewish Hat” (https://www.jstor.org/stable/24709777?seq=1) , in: Jewish History, 29 (2015), 203–244 Lubrich, Naomi, “From Judenhut to Zauberhut: A Jewish Sign Proliferates” (https://www.asdiwal.ch/revue/asdiwal-no10-5.php) , in: Asdiwal, 10, 2015, 136–162 Françoise Piponnier and Perrine Mane; Dress in the Middle Ages , Yale UP, 1997; ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-300-06906-5 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-300-06906-5) Roth, Norman, "Was There a "Jewish Hat"?" (https://web.archive.org/web/20080225013546/http://www.myjewishlearning.com/history_community/Medieval/MedievalSocialTO/Clothing/JewishHat.htm) Schreckenburg, Heinz, The Jews in Christian Art , 1996, Continuum, New York, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-8264-0936-9 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-8264-0936-9) Silverman, Eric, A Cultural History of Jewish Dress , 2013, A&C Black, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 1847882862 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/1847882862) , 9781847882868, google books (https://books.google.com/books?id=clFMAQAAQBAJ&pg=PA56) Further reading [ edit ] Straus Raphael, The "Jewish Hat" as an Aspect of Social History , Jewish Social Studies, Vol. 4, No. 1 (Jan., 1942), pp. 59–72, Indiana University Press. JSTOR (/wiki/JSTOR_(identifier)) 4615188 (https://www.jstor.org/stable/4615188) . External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Jewish hat (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Jewish_hat) . PBS feature (https://www.pbs.org/wnet/heritage/episode4/presentations/4.3.6-1.html) Website in German with many illustrations (http://www.albert-ottenbacher.de/kaulbach/kau5.htm) v t e Historical clothing (/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles) Clothing generally not worn today, except in historical settings Body-length (/wiki/Suit) Abolla (/wiki/Abolla) Banyan (/wiki/Banyan_(clothing)) Brunswick (/wiki/Brunswick_(clothing)) Court dress (Empire of Japan) (/wiki/Court_uniform_and_dress_in_the_Empire_of_Japan) Chiton (/wiki/Chiton_(costume)) Frock (/wiki/Frock) Frock coat (/wiki/Frock_coat) Hanfu (/wiki/Hanfu) Justacorps (/wiki/Justacorps) Paenula (/wiki/Paenula) Peplos (/wiki/Peplos) Stola (/wiki/Stola) Toga (/wiki/Toga) Tunic (/wiki/Tunic) Xout lao (/wiki/Xout_lao) Tops (/wiki/Top_(clothing)) Basque (/wiki/Basque_(clothing)) Bedgown (/wiki/Bedgown) Bodice (/wiki/Bodice) Doublet (/wiki/Doublet_(clothing)) Peascod belly (/wiki/Peascod_belly) Poet shirt (/wiki/Poet_shirt) Sbai (/wiki/Sbai) Suea pat (/wiki/Suea_pat) Trousers (/wiki/Trousers) Braccae (/wiki/Braccae) Breeches (/wiki/Breeches) Sompot Chong Kben (/wiki/Sompot_Chong_Kben) Culottes (/wiki/Culottes) Harem (/wiki/Harem_pants) Knickerbockers (/wiki/Knickerbockers_(clothing)) Pedal pushers (/wiki/Pedal_pushers) Saragüells (/w/index.php?title=Sarag%C3%BCells&action=edit&redlink=1) [ ca (https://ca.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sarag%C3%BCells) ] Skirts (/wiki/Skirt) Hobble (/wiki/Hobble_skirt) Poodle (/wiki/Poodle_skirt) Safeguard (/wiki/Safeguard_(costume)) Sompot (/wiki/Sompot) Sinh (/wiki/Sinh_(clothing)) Train (/wiki/Train_(clothing)) Dresses (/wiki/Dress) Bliaut (/wiki/Bliaut) Close-bodied gown (/wiki/Close-bodied_gown) Debutante (/wiki/Debutante_dress) Gown (/wiki/Gown) Kirtle (/wiki/Kirtle) Mantua (/wiki/Mantua_(clothing)) Polonaise (/wiki/Polonaise_(clothing)) Robe de cour (/wiki/Robe_de_cour) Sack-back gown (/wiki/Sack-back_gown) Sailor (/wiki/Sailor_dress) Tea gown (/wiki/Tea_gown) Zaju chuishao fu (/wiki/Zaju_chuishao_fu) Outerwear (/wiki/List_of_outerwear) Capote (/wiki/Capote_(garment)) Car coat (/wiki/Car_coat) Caraco (/wiki/Caraco) Cardinal cloak (/wiki/Cardinal_cloak) Chamail (/wiki/Chamail_(clothing)) Chlamys (/wiki/Chlamys) Cloak (/wiki/Cloak) Kinsale cloak (/wiki/Kinsale_cloak) Dolman (/wiki/Dolman) Doublet (/wiki/Doublet_(clothing)) Duster (/wiki/Duster_(clothing)) Exomis (/wiki/Exomis) Greatcoat (/wiki/Greatcoat) Himation (/wiki/Himation) Houppelande (/wiki/Houppelande) Inverness cape (/wiki/Inverness_cape) Jerkin (/wiki/Jerkin) Kandys (/wiki/Kandys) Mackinaw jacket (/wiki/Mackinaw_jacket) Nadiri (/wiki/Nadiri) Norfolk jacket (/wiki/Norfolk_jacket) Overfrock (/wiki/Over-frock_coat) Pañuelo (/wiki/Pa%C3%B1uelo) Palla (/wiki/Palla_(garment)) Pallium (/wiki/Pallium_(Roman_cloak)) Pelisse (/wiki/Pelisse) Poncho (/wiki/Poncho) Shadbelly (/wiki/Shadbelly) Shawl (/wiki/Shawl) Galway shawl (/wiki/Galway_shawl) Kullu (/wiki/Kullu_shawl) Smock-frock (/wiki/Smock-frock) Spencer (/wiki/Spencer_(clothing)) Surcoat (/wiki/Surcoat) Surtout (/wiki/Surtout) Ulster coat (/wiki/Ulster_coat) Visite (/wiki/Visite) Witzchoura (/wiki/Witzchoura) Underwear (/wiki/Undergarment) Basque (/wiki/Basque_(clothing)) Bustle (/wiki/Bustle) Chausses (/wiki/Chausses) Chemise (/wiki/Chemise) Codpiece (/wiki/Codpiece) Corselet (/wiki/Corselet) Corset (/wiki/Corset) Waist cincher (/wiki/Waist_cincher) Dickey (/wiki/Dickey_(garment)) Garter (/wiki/Garter) Hoop skirt (/wiki/Hoop_skirt) Crinoline (/wiki/Crinoline) Farthingale (/wiki/Farthingale) Pannier (/wiki/Pannier_(clothing)) Hose (/wiki/Hose_(clothing)) Liberty bodice (/wiki/Liberty_bodice) Loincloth (/wiki/Loincloth) Open drawers (/wiki/Open_drawers) Pantalettes (/wiki/Pantalettes) Petticoat (/wiki/Petticoat) Peignoir (/wiki/Peignoir) Pettipants (/wiki/Pettipants) Union suit (/wiki/Union_suit) Yếm (/wiki/Y%E1%BA%BFm) Headwear (/wiki/Headgear) Anthony Eden (/wiki/Anthony_Eden_hat) Apex (/wiki/Apex_(headdress)) Arakhchin (/wiki/Arakhchin) Attifet (/wiki/Attifet) Aviator (/wiki/Aviator_hat) Ba tầm (/wiki/Ba_t%E1%BA%A7m) Bergère (/wiki/Berg%C3%A8re_hat) Blessed hat (/wiki/Blessed_sword_and_hat) Bonnet (/wiki/Bonnet_(headgear)) Capotain (/wiki/Capotain) Caubeen (/wiki/Caubeen) Cavalier (/wiki/Cavalier_hat) Coif (/wiki/Coif) Coonskin (/wiki/Coonskin_cap) Cornette (/wiki/Cornette) Dunce (/wiki/Dunce_cap) Fillet (/wiki/Fillet_(clothing)) French hood (/wiki/French_hood) Fontange (/wiki/Fontange) Futou (/wiki/Futou) Gable hood (/wiki/Gable_hood) Hennin (/wiki/Hennin) Jeongjagwan (/wiki/Jeongjagwan) Jewish Kausia (/wiki/Kausia) Kokoshnik (/wiki/Kokoshnik) Llawt'u (/wiki/Llawt%27u) Malahai (/wiki/Malahai) Matron's badge (/wiki/Matron%27s_badge) Miner's (/wiki/Miner%27s_cap) Mob (/wiki/Mobcap) Modius (/wiki/Modius_(headdress)) Monmouth (/wiki/Monmouth_cap) Mooskappe (/wiki/Mooskappe) Motoring hood (/wiki/Motoring_hood) Mounteere (/wiki/Mounteere_Cap) Nemes (/wiki/Nemes) Nightcap (/wiki/Nightcap_(garment)) Ochipok 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Subset of clothing This article is about the dress code. For the term in the formal methods (/wiki/Formal_methods) subfield of science (/wiki/Science) , see Formal semantics (/wiki/Formal_semantics_(disambiguation)) . This article needs additional citations for verification (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this article (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Semi-formal_wear) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Find sources: "Semi-formal wear" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Semi-formal+wear%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Semi-formal+wear%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Semi-formal+wear%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Semi-formal+wear%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Semi-formal+wear%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Semi-formal+wear%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( April 2019 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Part of a series (/wiki/Category:Formal_wear) on Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) and corresponding attires (/wiki/Clothing) Formal (/wiki/Formal_wear) ( full dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) White tie (/wiki/White_tie) Morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) Full dress uniform (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) Frock coat (/wiki/Frock_coat) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Ball gown (/wiki/Ball_gown) Semi-formal ( half dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) Black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) Black lounge suit (/wiki/Black_lounge_suit) Mess dress uniform (/wiki/Mess_dress_uniform) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Informal (/wiki/Informal_wear) ( undress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) , "dress clothes") Suit (/wiki/Suit) Service dress uniform (/wiki/Service_dress_uniform) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Pantsuit (/wiki/Pantsuit) Casual (/wiki/Casual_wear) (anything not above) Business casual (/wiki/Business_casual) Casual Friday (/wiki/Casual_Friday) Combat uniform (/wiki/Combat_uniform) Smart casual (/wiki/Smart_casual) Workwear (/wiki/Workwear) Streetwear (/wiki/Streetwear) Sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear) known as Sportswear (fashion) (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) and Athleisure (/wiki/Athleisure) Undress (/wiki/Undress_code) Supplementary alternatives Ceremonial dress (/wiki/Ceremonial_dress) law courts (/wiki/Court_dress) royal courts (/wiki/Court_uniform_and_dress_in_the_United_Kingdom) diplomatic (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) academic (/wiki/Academic_dress) , etc. Religious clothing (/wiki/Religious_clothing) cassock (/wiki/Cassock) , habit (/wiki/Religious_habit) , etc. Folk costume (/wiki/Folk_costume) Distinctions Orders (/wiki/Order_(distinction)) medals (/wiki/Medal) , etc. Legend: = Day (before 6 p.m.) = Evening (after 6 p.m.) = Bow tie (/wiki/Bow_tie) colour = Ladies = Gentlemen Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) v t e Semi-formal wear or half dress is a grouping of dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_code) indicating the sort of clothes worn to events with a level of formality between informal wear (/wiki/Informal_wear) and formal wear (/wiki/Formal_wear) . In the modern era, [ when? ] the typical interpretation for men is black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) for evening wear and black lounge suit (/wiki/Black_lounge_suit) for day wear, corresponded by either a pant suit or an evening gown for women. [1] (#cite_note-1) Whether one would choose to wear morning or evening semi-formal has traditionally been defined by whether the event will commence before or after 6:00 p.m. In addition, equivalent versions may be permitted such as ceremonial dresses (including court dresses (/wiki/Court_dress) , diplomatic uniforms (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) and academic dresses (/wiki/Academic_dress) ), religious clothing (/wiki/Religious_clothing) , national costumes (/wiki/National_costume) , and military mess dresses (/wiki/Mess_dress) . Evening wear: "black tie" dinner suit [ edit ] Main article: Black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) For evening wear (after 6 p.m.), the code is black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) . [2] (#cite_note-Flusser02-2) In formal evening dress, or white tie (/wiki/White_tie) dress, this practice of substituting colors in ties is much less common since men's fashion tends to follow tradition more deeply as it becomes more formal. The origins of evening semi-formal attire date back to the later 19th century when Edward, Prince of Wales (/wiki/Prince_of_Wales) (subsequently Edward VII (/wiki/Edward_VII) ), wanted a more comfortable dinner attire than the swallowtail coat (/wiki/Dress_coat) . [3] (#cite_note-Flusser01-3) In spring 1886, the Prince invited James Potter, a rich New Yorker, and his wife Cora (/wiki/Cora_Urquhart_Brown-Potter) to Sandringham House (/wiki/Sandringham_House) , the Prince's hunting estate in Norfolk (/wiki/Norfolk) . When Potter asked for the Prince's dinner dress code, the Prince sent him to his tailor, Henry Poole & Co. (/wiki/Henry_Poole_%26_Co.) , in London, where he was given a suit made to the Prince's specifications with the dinner jacket. [4] (#cite_note-Flusser03-4) On returning to Tuxedo Park, New York (/wiki/Tuxedo_Park,_New_York) , in 1886, Potter's dinner suit proved popular at the Tuxedo Park Club (/wiki/Tuxedo_Club) . Not long afterward, when a group of men from the club chose to wear such suits to a dinner at Delmonico's Restaurant (/wiki/Delmonico%27s_Restaurant) in New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) , other diners were surprised. They were told that such clothing was popular at Tuxedo Park, so the particular cut then became known as the "tuxedo". [4] (#cite_note-Flusser03-4) From its creation into the 1920s, this dinner jacket (/wiki/Dinner_jacket) was considered appropriate dress for dining in one's home or club, while the tailcoat remained in place as appropriate for public appearance. [3] (#cite_note-Flusser01-3) Supplementary alternatives [ edit ] Mess dress [ edit ] Main article: Mess dress (/wiki/Mess_dress) For formal dining, uniformed services (/wiki/Uniformed_services) officers (/wiki/Officer_(armed_forces)) and non-commissioned officers (/wiki/Non-commissioned_officer) often wear mess dress (/wiki/Mess_dress) equivalents to the civilian black tie and evening dress. Mess uniforms may vary according to the wearers' respective branches of the armed services, regiments, or corps, but usually include a short Eton-style coat reaching to the waist. Some include white shirts, black bow ties, and low-cut waistcoats, while others feature high collars that fasten around the neck and corresponding high-gorge waistcoats. Some nations' armed services have black tie and white tie equivalent variants in their mess dress. Red Sea rig [ edit ] Main article: Red Sea rig (/wiki/Red_Sea_rig) In tropical areas, primarily in Western diplomatic and expatriate communities, Red Sea rig (/wiki/Red_Sea_rig) is sometimes worn, in which the jacket and waistcoat are omitted and a red cummerbund (/wiki/Cummerbund) and trousers with red piping are worn instead. See also [ edit ] Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) Suit (/wiki/Suit) Informal wear (/wiki/Informal_wear) Formal wear (/wiki/Formal_wear) Casual wear (/wiki/Casual_wear) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Boswell, Sandra (2007). Protocol Matters . Canon Press (/wiki/Canon_Press) . p. 181. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781591280255 . After-five clothing is a subcategory of semiformal eveningwear. Often called the "cocktail dress", this type of dress if often made of shiny fabric and can be short, from being shorter than knee up to mid-calf, but seldom reaches to the ankle as does stricter semiformal evening wear. - "Attire Guide: Dress Codes from Casual to White Tie - The Emily Post Institute" (http://emilypost.com/advice/attire-guide-dress-codes-from-casual-to-white-tie/) . The Emily Post Institute (/wiki/The_Emily_Post_Institute) . 2016 . Retrieved 11 October 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-Flusser02_2-0) Flusser, Alan (/wiki/Alan_Flusser) (2002). Dressing the Man: Mastering the art of Permanent Fashion . New York (/wiki/New_York_City) : HarperCollins Publishers, Inc. (/wiki/HarperCollins) p. 299. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-06-019144-9 . ^ Jump up to: a b Flusser, Alan (/wiki/Alan_Flusser) (2002). Dressing the Man: Mastering the art of Permanent Fashion . New York (/wiki/New_York_City) : HarperCollins Publishers, Inc. (/wiki/HarperCollins) p. 240. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-06-019144-9 . ^ Jump up to: a b Flusser, Alan (/wiki/Alan_Flusser) (2002). Dressing the Man: Mastering the art of Permanent Fashion . New York (/wiki/New_York_City) : HarperCollins Publishers, Inc. (/wiki/HarperCollins) pp. 240, 241, 303. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-06-019144-9 . 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Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Semi-formal_wear&oldid=1158141929 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Semi-formal_wear&oldid=1158141929) " Category (/wiki/Help:Category) : Semi-formal wear (/wiki/Category:Semi-formal_wear) Hidden categories: Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description matches Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_matches_Wikidata) Articles needing additional references from April 2019 (/wiki/Category:Articles_needing_additional_references_from_April_2019) All articles needing additional references (/wiki/Category:All_articles_needing_additional_references) All articles with vague or ambiguous time (/wiki/Category:All_articles_with_vague_or_ambiguous_time) Vague or ambiguous time from December 2021 (/wiki/Category:Vague_or_ambiguous_time_from_December_2021) Commons category link from Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Commons_category_link_from_Wikidata)

Costume having a primarily ritual or ceremonial purpose State portrait of King Edward VII of the United Kingdom (/wiki/King_Edward_VII_of_the_United_Kingdom) , showing the coronation regalia atop a full dress (/wiki/Full_dress) military uniform Part of a series (/wiki/Category:Formal_wear) on Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) and corresponding attires (/wiki/Clothing) Formal (/wiki/Formal_wear) ( full dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) White tie (/wiki/White_tie) Morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) Full dress uniform (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) Frock coat (/wiki/Frock_coat) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Ball gown (/wiki/Ball_gown) Semi-formal (/wiki/Semi-formal_wear) ( half dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) Black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) Black lounge suit (/wiki/Black_lounge_suit) Mess dress uniform (/wiki/Mess_dress_uniform) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Informal (/wiki/Informal_wear) ( undress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) , "dress clothes") Suit (/wiki/Suit) Service dress uniform (/wiki/Service_dress_uniform) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Pantsuit (/wiki/Pantsuit) Casual (/wiki/Casual_wear) (anything not above) Business casual (/wiki/Business_casual) Casual Friday (/wiki/Casual_Friday) Combat uniform (/wiki/Combat_uniform) Smart casual (/wiki/Smart_casual) Workwear (/wiki/Workwear) Streetwear (/wiki/Streetwear) Sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear) known as Sportswear (fashion) (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) and Athleisure (/wiki/Athleisure) Undress (/wiki/Undress_code) Supplementary alternatives Ceremonial dress law courts (/wiki/Court_dress) royal courts (/wiki/Court_uniform_and_dress_in_the_United_Kingdom) diplomatic (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) academic (/wiki/Academic_dress) , etc. Religious clothing (/wiki/Religious_clothing) cassock (/wiki/Cassock) , habit (/wiki/Religious_habit) , etc. Folk costume (/wiki/Folk_costume) Distinctions Orders (/wiki/Order_(distinction)) medals (/wiki/Medal) , etc. Legend: = Day (before 6 p.m.) = Evening (after 6 p.m.) = Bow tie (/wiki/Bow_tie) colour = Ladies = Gentlemen Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) v t e Ceremonial dress is clothing (/wiki/Clothing) worn for very special occasions, such as coronations, graduations, parades, religious rites, trials and other important events. In the western dress code (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) hierarchy (/wiki/Hierarchy) of dress codes, ceremonial dress is often considered one of the most formal (/wiki/Formal_attire) , in other cultures ceremonial dresses vary widely having entirely different meanings, and styles. Examples [ edit ] There has been documented knowledge on the effects of ceremonial clothing, with those wearing ceremonial clothing have been used to denote a wide range of usage among varying unique cultures (/wiki/Cultures) . [1] (#cite_note-1) Examples of ceremonial dress include: royal cloak (/wiki/Cloak) ( ermine (/wiki/Stoat) lined), crown (/wiki/Crown_(headgear)) and scepter (/wiki/Scepter) of a monarch (/wiki/Monarch) court dress (/wiki/Court_dress) , such as the robe and wig (/wiki/Wig) commonly used in Commonwealth (/wiki/Commonwealth_of_Nations) countries. diplomatic uniform (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) the full dress uniforms (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) of military (/wiki/Military) personnel (or ceremonial suit of armour (/wiki/Suit_of_armour) ) religious clothing (/wiki/Religious_clothing) , such as liturgical vestments (/wiki/Vestment) folk or tribal costumes (/wiki/Folk_costume) reserved for the most formal occasions academic dress (/wiki/Academic_dress) wedding clothing, including wedding dresses (/wiki/Wedding_dress) See also [ edit ] Dress code (/wiki/Dress_code) Fashion (/wiki/Fashion) Folk costume (/wiki/Folk_costume) Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) Costume (/wiki/Costume) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Driscoll-Engelstad, Bernadette (2005). "Dance of the Loon: Symbolism and Continuity in Copper Inuit Ceremonial Clothing" (https://www.jstor.org/stable/pdf/40316636.pdf) (PDF) . Arctic Anthropology . 42 (1): 33–46. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1353/arc.2011.0010 (https://doi.org/10.1353%2Farc.2011.0010) . JSTOR (/wiki/JSTOR_(identifier)) 40316636 (https://www.jstor.org/stable/40316636) . S2CID (/wiki/S2CID_(identifier)) 162200500 (https://api.semanticscholar.org/CorpusID:162200500) . v t e Clothing (/wiki/Clothing) History (/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles) Industry (/wiki/Clothing_industry) Technology (/wiki/Clothing_technology) Terminology (/wiki/Clothing_terminology) Timeline (/wiki/Timeline_of_clothing_and_textiles_technology) Headwear (/wiki/Headgear) Beret (/wiki/Beret) Cap (/wiki/Cap) baseball (/wiki/Baseball_cap) flat (/wiki/Flat_cap) knit (/wiki/Knit_cap) Hat (/wiki/Hat) boater (/wiki/Boater) bowler (/wiki/Bowler_hat) fedora (/wiki/Fedora) homburg (/wiki/Homburg_hat) top (/wiki/Top_hat) Helmet (/wiki/Helmet) Hood (/wiki/Hood_(headgear)) Kerchief (/wiki/Kerchief) Mask (/wiki/Mask) Turban (/wiki/Turban) Veil (/wiki/Veil) Neckwear (/wiki/Neckwear) Bands (/wiki/Bands_(neckwear)) Choker (/wiki/Choker) Clerical collar (/wiki/Clerical_collar) Lavallière (/wiki/Pussy_bow) Neckerchief (/wiki/Neckerchief) Neck gaiter (/wiki/Neck_gaiter) Necktie (/wiki/Necktie) ascot (/wiki/Ascot_tie) bolo (/wiki/Bolo_tie) bow (/wiki/Bow_tie) kipper (/wiki/Kipper_tie) school (/wiki/School_tie) stock (/wiki/Stock_tie) Scarf (/wiki/Scarf) Tippet (/wiki/Tippet) Tops (/wiki/Top_(clothing)) Blouse (/wiki/Blouse) cache-cœur (/wiki/Cache-c%C5%93ur) crop top (/wiki/Crop_top) halterneck (/wiki/Halterneck) tube top (/wiki/Tube_top) Cycling (/wiki/Cycling_jersey) Kurta (/wiki/Kurta) Mantle (/wiki/Mantle_(clothing)) Shirt (/wiki/Shirt) dress (/wiki/Dress_shirt) Henley (/wiki/Henley_shirt) polo (/wiki/Polo_shirt) sleeveless (/wiki/Sleeveless_shirt) T (/wiki/T-shirt) Sweater (/wiki/Sweater) cardigan (/wiki/Cardigan_(sweater)) guernsey (/wiki/Guernsey_(clothing)) hoodie (/wiki/Hoodie) jersey (/wiki/Jersey_(clothing)) polo neck (/wiki/Polo_neck) shrug (/wiki/Shrug_(clothing)) sweater vest (/wiki/Sweater_vest) twinset (/wiki/Twinset) Waistcoat (/wiki/Waistcoat) Trousers (/wiki/Trousers) Bell-bottoms (/wiki/Bell-bottoms) Bondage (/wiki/Bondage_pants) Capri (/wiki/Capri_pants) Cargo (/wiki/Cargo_pants) Chaps (/wiki/Chaps) Formal (/wiki/Formal_trousers) Go-to-hell (/wiki/Go-to-hell_pants) High water (/wiki/High-rise_(fashion)) Lowrise (/wiki/Low-rise_(fashion)) Jeans (/wiki/Jeans) Jodhpurs (/wiki/Jodhpurs) Overalls (/wiki/Overalls) Palazzo (/wiki/Palazzo_pants) Parachute (/wiki/Parachute_pants) Pedal pushers (/wiki/Pedal_pushers) Phat (/wiki/Phat_pants) Shorts (/wiki/Shorts) Bermuda (/wiki/Bermuda_shorts) dycling (/wiki/Cycling_shorts) dolphin (/wiki/Dolphin_shorts) gym (/wiki/Gym_shorts) hotpants (/wiki/Hotpants) running (/wiki/Running_shorts) Slim-fit (/wiki/Slim-fit_pants) Sweatpants (/wiki/Sweatpants) Windpants (/wiki/Windpants) Yoga pants (/wiki/Yoga_pants) Suits (/wiki/Suit) and uniforms (/wiki/Uniform) Ceremonial dress academic (/wiki/Academic_dress) court (/wiki/Court_dress) diplomatic (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) Folk (/wiki/Folk_costume) Jodhpuri (/wiki/Jodhpuri) Jumpsuit (/wiki/Jumpsuit) Military (/wiki/Military_uniform) full (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) mess (/wiki/Mess_dress_uniform) service (/wiki/Service_dress_uniform) sailor (/wiki/Sailor_suit) combat (/wiki/Combat_uniform) Pantsuit (/wiki/Pantsuit) Religious (/wiki/Religious_clothing) cassock (/wiki/Cassock) clerical (/wiki/Clerical_clothing) vestment (/wiki/Vestment) School (/wiki/School_uniform) Prison (/wiki/Prison_uniform) Workwear (/wiki/Workwear) boilersuit (/wiki/Boilersuit) cleanroom (/wiki/Cleanroom_suit) hazmat (/wiki/Hazmat_suit) space (/wiki/Space_suit) scrubs (/wiki/Scrubs_(clothing)) Dresses (/wiki/Dress) and gowns (/wiki/Gown) Formal, semi- formal, informal Backless (/wiki/Backless_dress) Bouffant gown (/wiki/Bouffant_gown) Coatdress (/wiki/Coatdress) Cocktail (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) little black (/wiki/Little_black_dress) Evening (/wiki/Evening_gown) ball gown (/wiki/Ball_gown) debutante (/wiki/Debutante_dress) Plain (/wiki/Plain_dress) Prairie (/wiki/Prairie_dress) Princess line (/wiki/Princess_line) Strapless (/wiki/Strapless_dress) Wedding (/wiki/Wedding_dress) Wrap (/wiki/Wrap_dress) Casual House (/wiki/House_dress) Jumper (/wiki/Jumper_(dress)) Romper suit (/wiki/Romper_suit) Sheath (/wiki/Sheath_dress) Shirtdress (/wiki/Shirtdress) Slip (/wiki/Slip_dress) Sundress (/wiki/Sundress) Skirts (/wiki/Skirt) A-line (/wiki/A-line_(clothing)) Ballerina (/wiki/Ballerina_skirt) Denim (/wiki/Denim_skirt) Men's (/wiki/Men%27s_skirts) Miniskirt (/wiki/Miniskirt) Pencil (/wiki/Pencil_skirt) Prairie (/wiki/Prairie_skirt) Rah-rah (/wiki/Rah-rah_skirt) Sarong (/wiki/Sarong) Skort (/wiki/Skort) Tutu (/wiki/Tutu_(clothing)) Wrap (/wiki/Wrap_(clothing)) Underwear (/wiki/Underwear) and lingerie (/wiki/Lingerie) Top Bra (/wiki/Bra) Camisole (/wiki/Camisole) Undershirt (/wiki/Undershirt) Bottom Diaper (/wiki/Diaper) Training pants (/wiki/Training_pants) Leggings (/wiki/Leggings) Panties (/wiki/Panties) Plastic pants (/wiki/Plastic_pants) Slip (/wiki/Slip_(clothing)) Thong (/wiki/Thong) Underpants (/wiki/Underpants) boxer briefs (/wiki/Boxer_briefs) boxer shorts (/wiki/Boxer_shorts) briefs (/wiki/Briefs) Full Bodysuit, adult (/wiki/Bodysuit) Bodysuit, infant (/wiki/Infant_bodysuit) Long underwear (/wiki/Long_underwear) See-through (/wiki/See-through_clothing) Teddy (/wiki/Teddy_(garment)) Coats (/wiki/Coat) and outerwear (/wiki/List_of_outerwear) Overcoats (/wiki/Overcoat) Car (/wiki/Car_coat) Chesterfield (/wiki/Chesterfield_coat) Covert (/wiki/Covert_coat) Duffel (/wiki/Duffel_coat) Duster (/wiki/Duster_(clothing)) Greatcoat (/wiki/Greatcoat) British Warm (/wiki/British_Warm) Guards Coat (/wiki/Guards_Coat) Greca (/wiki/Greca_(clothing)) Over-frock (/wiki/Over-frock_coat) Riding (/wiki/Riding_coat) shadbelly (/wiki/Shadbelly) Trench (/wiki/Trench_coat) Ulster (/wiki/Ulster_coat) Cloak (/wiki/Cloak) opera (/wiki/Opera_cloak) Paletot (/wiki/Paletot) Pea (/wiki/Pea_coat) Polo (/wiki/Polo_coat) Raincoat (/wiki/Raincoat) Mackintosh (/wiki/Mackintosh) Suit coats Frock coat (/wiki/Frock_coat) bekishe (/wiki/Bekishe) rekel (/wiki/Rekel) Mess jacket (/wiki/Mess_jacket) Suit jacket (/wiki/Suit_jacket) Blazer (/wiki/Blazer) smoking (/wiki/Smoking_jacket) sports (/wiki/Sport_coat) Teba (/wiki/Teba_jacket) Tailcoat (/wiki/Tailcoat) dress (/wiki/White_tie#Dress_coat) morning (/wiki/Morning_dress#Morning_coat) Other Apron (/wiki/Apron) pinafore (/wiki/Pinafore) Blouson (/wiki/Blouson) Cagoule (/wiki/Cagoule) Cape (/wiki/Cape) ferraiolo (/wiki/Ferraiolo) Inverness (/wiki/Inverness_cape) Mantle (/wiki/Mantle_(clothing)) monastic (/wiki/Mantle_(monastic_vesture)) royal (/wiki/Mantle_(royal_garment)) mozzetta (/wiki/Mozzetta) pellegrina (/wiki/Pellegrina) Coatee (/wiki/Coatee) Cut-off (/wiki/Cut-off) Gilet (/wiki/Gilet) Jacket (/wiki/Jacket) down (/wiki/Down_jacket) flight (/wiki/Flight_jacket) goggle (/wiki/Goggle_jacket) Harrington (/wiki/Harrington_jacket) leather (/wiki/Leather_jacket) mackinaw (/wiki/Mackinaw_jacket) Norfolk (/wiki/Norfolk_jacket) safari (/wiki/Safari_jacket) Jerkin (/wiki/Jerkin_(garment)) Lab coat (/wiki/White_coat) Parka (/wiki/Parka) Poncho (/wiki/Poncho) Robe (/wiki/Robe) bathrobe (/wiki/Bathrobe) dressing gown (/wiki/Dressing_gown) Shawl (/wiki/Shawl) Ski suit (/wiki/Ski_suit) Sleeved blanket (/wiki/Sleeved_blanket) Windbreaker (/wiki/Windbreaker) Nightwear (/wiki/Nightwear) Babydoll (/wiki/Babydoll) Babygrow (/wiki/Babygrow) Blanket sleeper (/wiki/Blanket_sleeper) Negligee (/wiki/Negligee) Nightgown (/wiki/Nightgown) Nightshirt (/wiki/Nightshirt) Pajamas (/wiki/Pajamas) Swimwear (/wiki/Swimsuit) Bikini (/wiki/Bikini) Burkini (/wiki/Burkini) Boardshorts (/wiki/Boardshorts) Dry suit (/wiki/Dry_suit) Monokini (/wiki/Monokini) One-piece (/wiki/One-piece_swimsuit) Rash guard (/wiki/Rash_guard) Sling (/wiki/Sling_swimsuit) Square leg suit (/wiki/Square_leg_suit) Swim briefs (/wiki/Swim_briefs) Swim diaper (/wiki/Swim_diaper) Trunks (/wiki/Trunks_(clothing)) Wetsuit (/wiki/Wetsuit) Footwear (/wiki/Footwear) Boot (/wiki/Boot) Court shoe (/wiki/Court_shoe) Dress boot (/wiki/Dress_boot) Dress shoe (/wiki/Dress_shoe) Flip-flops (/wiki/Flip-flops) Sandal (/wiki/Sandal) Shoe (/wiki/Shoe) Slipper (/wiki/Slipper) Sneaker (/wiki/Sneaker) Legwear (/wiki/Hosiery) Sock (/wiki/Sock) Hold-ups (/wiki/Hold-ups) Garter (/wiki/Garter) Pantyhose (/wiki/Pantyhose) Stocking (/wiki/Stocking) Tights (/wiki/Tights) Accessories (/wiki/Fashion_accessory) Belt (/wiki/Belt_(clothing)) Boutonnière (/wiki/Boutonni%C3%A8re) Coin purse (/wiki/Coin_purse) Cufflink (/wiki/Cufflink) Cummerbund (/wiki/Cummerbund) Gaiters (/wiki/Gaiters) Glasses (/wiki/Glasses) Gloves (/wiki/Glove) Headband (/wiki/Headband) Handbag (/wiki/Handbag) Jewellery (/wiki/Jewellery) Livery (/wiki/Livery) Muff (/wiki/Muff_(handwarmer)) Pocket protector (/wiki/Pocket_protector) Pocket watch (/wiki/Pocket_watch) Sash (/wiki/Sash) Spats (/wiki/Spats_(footwear)) Sunglasses (/wiki/Sunglasses) Suspenders (/wiki/Suspenders) Umbrella (/wiki/Umbrella) Wallet (/wiki/Wallet) Watch 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Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Ceremonial_dress&oldid=1227940533 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Ceremonial_dress&oldid=1227940533) " Category (/wiki/Help:Category) : Ceremonial clothing (/wiki/Category:Ceremonial_clothing) Hidden categories: Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description matches Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_matches_Wikidata)

Western dress code suited for everyday use Not to be confused with informal attire (/wiki/Informal_attire) . For other uses, see Casual (disambiguation) (/wiki/Casual_(disambiguation)) . Parents in casual wear with their child, 2013. Part of a series (/wiki/Category:Formal_wear) on Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) and corresponding attires (/wiki/Clothing) Formal (/wiki/Formal_wear) ( full dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) White tie (/wiki/White_tie) Morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) Full dress uniform (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) Frock coat (/wiki/Frock_coat) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Ball gown (/wiki/Ball_gown) Semi-formal (/wiki/Semi-formal_wear) ( half dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) Black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) Black lounge suit (/wiki/Black_lounge_suit) Mess dress uniform (/wiki/Mess_dress_uniform) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Informal (/wiki/Informal_wear) ( undress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) , "dress clothes") Suit (/wiki/Suit) Service dress uniform (/wiki/Service_dress_uniform) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Pantsuit (/wiki/Pantsuit) Casual (anything not above) Business casual (/wiki/Business_casual) Casual Friday (/wiki/Casual_Friday) Combat uniform (/wiki/Combat_uniform) Smart casual (/wiki/Smart_casual) Workwear (/wiki/Workwear) Streetwear (/wiki/Streetwear) Sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear) known as Sportswear (fashion) (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) and Athleisure (/wiki/Athleisure) Undress (/wiki/Undress_code) Supplementary alternatives Ceremonial dress (/wiki/Ceremonial_dress) law courts (/wiki/Court_dress) royal courts (/wiki/Court_uniform_and_dress_in_the_United_Kingdom) diplomatic (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) academic (/wiki/Academic_dress) , etc. Religious clothing (/wiki/Religious_clothing) cassock (/wiki/Cassock) , habit (/wiki/Religious_habit) , etc. Folk costume (/wiki/Folk_costume) Distinctions Orders (/wiki/Order_(distinction)) medals (/wiki/Medal) , etc. Legend: = Day (before 6 p.m.) = Evening (after 6 p.m.) = Bow tie (/wiki/Bow_tie) colour = Ladies = Gentlemen Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) v t e Casual wear (or casual attire or clothing ) is a Western dress code (/wiki/Western_dress_code) that is relaxed, occasional, spontaneous and suited for everyday use. Casual wear became popular in the Western world (/wiki/Western_world) following the counterculture of the 1960s (/wiki/Counterculture_of_the_1960s) . When emphasising casual wear's comfort, it may be referred to as leisurewear or loungewear . While casual is " informal (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/informal) " in the sense of "not formal", informal wear (/wiki/Informal_wear) traditionally refers to a Western dress code associated with suits (/wiki/Suit) —a step below semi-formal wear (/wiki/Semi-formal_wear) —thus being more formal than casual attire. [1] (#cite_note-1) Overview [ edit ] History [ edit ] Modern casual fashion can be traced to fashion sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) from the 1920s, including tweed blazers (/wiki/Blazer) , oxford shoes (/wiki/Oxford_shoes) , and golf skirts. An increase in the popularity of bicycling brought about a need for culottes (/wiki/Culottes) , a forerunner for casual shorts. As the century progressed, "casual" came to encompass more styles, including denim workwear (/wiki/Workwear) and elements from military uniforms (/wiki/Military_uniform) . With the popularity of spectator sports (/wiki/Spectator_sports) in the late 20th century, a good deal of athletic gear has influenced casual wear, such as jogging suits (/wiki/Jogging_suit) , running shoes (/wiki/Running_shoe) , and track clothing. [2] (#cite_note-Clemente-2) Basic materials used for casual wear include denim (/wiki/Denim) , cotton (/wiki/Cotton) , jersey (/wiki/Jersey_(fabric)) , flannel (/wiki/Flannel) , and fleece (/wiki/Polar_fleece) . Materials such as velvet (/wiki/Velvet) , chiffon (/wiki/Chiffon_(fabric)) , and brocade (/wiki/Brocade) are often associated with more formal clothes. [3] (#cite_note-3) While casual dress evokes utilitarian costume, there is a wide range for expression, including punk fashion (/wiki/Punk_fashion) and fashion inspired by earlier decades, such as the 1970s (/wiki/1970s_in_fashion) and 1980s (/wiki/1980s_in_fashion) . Madonna (/wiki/Madonna_(entertainer)) popularized lace (/wiki/Lace) , jewelry (/wiki/Jewelry) , and cosmetics (/wiki/Cosmetics) into casual wear during the 1980s. In the 1990s, hip hop fashion (/wiki/Hip_hop_fashion) played up elaborate jewelry and luxurious materials worn in conjunction with athletic gear and the clothing of manual labor. Gender expression [ edit ] Casual wear introduced a "unisexing" of fashion. By the 1960s (/wiki/1960s_in_fashion) , women adopted T-shirts (/wiki/T-shirts) , jeans (/wiki/Jeans) , and collared shirts (/wiki/Dress_shirt) , and for the first time in nearly 200 years, it was fashionable for men to have long hair. [2] (#cite_note-Clemente-2) Casual wear is typically the dress code in which forms of gender expression (/wiki/Gender_expression) are experimented with. An example is masculine (/wiki/Masculinity) jewelry, which was once considered shocking or titillating even in casual circles, and is now hardly noteworthy in semi-formal situations. Amelia Bloomer (/wiki/Amelia_Bloomer) introduced trousers of a sort for women as a casual alternative to formal hoops and skirts. The trend toward female exposure in the 20th century tended to push the necklines of formal ball gowns (/wiki/Ball_gown) lower and the skirts of cocktail dresses (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) higher. Jeans, dress shirt (casually turn down collared (/wiki/Turn_down_collar) ), and a T-shirt or sleeveless shirt (/wiki/Sleeveless_shirt) are typically considered casual wear for men in modern times. [4] (#cite_note-4) [5] (#cite_note-5) For men, the exposure of shoulders, thighs, and backs is still limited to casual wear. [ citation needed ] Gallery [ edit ] A man wearing a T-shirt (/wiki/T-shirt) and jeans (/wiki/Jeans) and a woman wearing black T-shirt (/wiki/T-shirt) and white long skirt (/wiki/Skirt) A woman cycling while wearing a sweater (/wiki/Sweater) and miniskirt (/wiki/Miniskirt) in Canada. Voice actress Cassandra Morris (/wiki/Cassandra_Morris) wearing a casual minidress (/wiki/Minidress) during a public interaction. A model in T-shirt (/wiki/T-shirt) and cargo shorts (/wiki/Cargo_shorts) . Model in jeans (/wiki/Jeans) and a military-style (/wiki/Military_uniform) shirt. A woman in bra-shaped top and mini-shorts in Germany See also [ edit ] 2020s in fashion (/wiki/2020s_in_fashion) Athleisure (/wiki/Athleisure) Ready-to-wear (/wiki/Ready-to-wear) Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Casual dictionary definition | casual defined" (https://www.yourdictionary.com/casual) . www.yourdictionary.com . ^ Jump up to: a b Clemente, Deirdre (August 5, 2015). "Why and When Did Americans Begin to Dress So Casually?" (https://time.com/3984690/american-casual-dressing/) . Time (/wiki/Time_(magazine)) . Retrieved 2023-01-04 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "Material Chart" (https://www.namedclothing.com/material-chart/) . January 12, 2014. ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Casual Dress for Young Men: What to Wear & How to Wear It" (https://www.artofmanliness.com/articles/sharp-casual-young-man-guide/) . October 31, 2012. ^ (#cite_ref-5) "How To Dress Sharp Without Shocking Your Friends" (https://www.realmenrealstyle.com/how-to-dress-sharper/) . November 5, 2012. v t e Weddings (/wiki/Wedding) Collective (/wiki/Collective_wedding) Elopement (/wiki/Elopement) Handfasting (/wiki/Handfasting) Same-sex (/wiki/Same-sex_marriage) White (/wiki/White_wedding) Pre-wedding Marriage proposal planner (/wiki/Marriage_proposal_planner) Marriage proposal (/wiki/Marriage_proposal) Engagement (/wiki/Engagement) Banns of marriage (/wiki/Banns_of_marriage) Wedding planner (/wiki/Wedding_planner) Bridal registry (/wiki/Bridal_registry) Bridal shower (/wiki/Bridal_shower) Engagement party (/wiki/Engagement_party) Wedding invitation (/wiki/Wedding_invitation) Bachelor party (/wiki/Bachelor_party) Bachelorette party (/wiki/Bachelorette_party) Stag and doe party (/wiki/Stag_and_doe) Marriage license (/wiki/Marriage_license) Rehearsal dinner (/wiki/Rehearsal_dinner) Locations Wedding chapel (/wiki/Wedding_chapel) Gretna Green (/wiki/Gretna_Green#Marriage) Las Vegas (/wiki/Las_Vegas_weddings) Clothing Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) Formal (/wiki/Formal_wear) White tie (/wiki/White_tie) Morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) Semi-formal (/wiki/Semi-formal_wear) Black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) Black lounge suit (/wiki/Black_lounge_suit) Informal (/wiki/Informal_wear) Suit (/wiki/Suit) Wedding dress (/wiki/Wedding_dress) Contemporary (/wiki/Contemporary_Western_wedding_dress) Bridal crown (/wiki/Bridal_crown) Dress (/wiki/Dress) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Ball gown (/wiki/Ball_gown) Debutante (/wiki/D%C3%A9butante_dress) Opera gloves (/wiki/Opera_gloves) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Garters (/wiki/Garter_(stockings)) Casual Objects Chuppah (/wiki/Chuppah) Las arras (/wiki/Las_arras) Lebes Gamikos (/wiki/Lebes_Gamikos) Wedding cord (/wiki/Wedding_cord) Wedding favors (/wiki/Wedding_favors) Wedding mandap (/wiki/Wedding_mandap) Wedding ring cushion (/wiki/Wedding_ring_cushion) Wishing well (/wiki/Wishing_well_(wedding)) Participants (/wiki/List_of_wedding_ceremony_participants) Bride (/wiki/Bride) child bride 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(/wiki/Contemporary_Western_wedding_dress) Bridal crown (/wiki/Bridal_crown) Dress (/wiki/Dress) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Ball gown (/wiki/Ball_gown) Debutante (/wiki/D%C3%A9butante_dress) Opera gloves (/wiki/Evening_glove) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Garters (/wiki/Garter) Casual Equipment Balloon (/wiki/Balloon) Balloon modelling (/wiki/Balloon_modelling) Confetti (/wiki/Confetti) Cotton candy (/wiki/Cotton_candy) Deely bobber (/wiki/Deely_bobber) Glow stick (/wiki/Glow_stick) Groucho glasses (/wiki/Groucho_glasses) Party hat (/wiki/Party_hat) New Year's glasses (/wiki/New_Year%27s_glasses) Party bus (/wiki/Party_bus) Party horn (/wiki/Party_horn) Party popper (/wiki/Party_popper) Serpentine streamer (/wiki/Serpentine_streamer) Society portal (/wiki/Portal:Society) Media (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Parties) Category (/wiki/Category:Parties) v t e Clothing (/wiki/Clothing) History (/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles) Industry (/wiki/Clothing_industry) Technology (/wiki/Clothing_technology) Terminology (/wiki/Clothing_terminology) Timeline (/wiki/Timeline_of_clothing_and_textiles_technology) Headwear (/wiki/Headgear) Beret (/wiki/Beret) Cap (/wiki/Cap) baseball (/wiki/Baseball_cap) flat (/wiki/Flat_cap) knit (/wiki/Knit_cap) Hat (/wiki/Hat) boater (/wiki/Boater) bowler (/wiki/Bowler_hat) fedora (/wiki/Fedora) homburg (/wiki/Homburg_hat) top (/wiki/Top_hat) Helmet (/wiki/Helmet) Hood (/wiki/Hood_(headgear)) Kerchief (/wiki/Kerchief) Mask (/wiki/Mask) Turban (/wiki/Turban) Veil (/wiki/Veil) Neckwear (/wiki/Neckwear) Bands (/wiki/Bands_(neckwear)) Choker (/wiki/Choker) Clerical collar (/wiki/Clerical_collar) Lavallière (/wiki/Pussy_bow) Neckerchief (/wiki/Neckerchief) Neck gaiter (/wiki/Neck_gaiter) Necktie (/wiki/Necktie) ascot (/wiki/Ascot_tie) bolo (/wiki/Bolo_tie) bow (/wiki/Bow_tie) kipper (/wiki/Kipper_tie) school (/wiki/School_tie) stock (/wiki/Stock_tie) Scarf (/wiki/Scarf) Tippet (/wiki/Tippet) Tops 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Jeans (/wiki/Jeans) Jodhpurs (/wiki/Jodhpurs) Overalls (/wiki/Overalls) Palazzo (/wiki/Palazzo_pants) Parachute (/wiki/Parachute_pants) Pedal pushers (/wiki/Pedal_pushers) Phat (/wiki/Phat_pants) Shorts (/wiki/Shorts) Bermuda (/wiki/Bermuda_shorts) dycling (/wiki/Cycling_shorts) dolphin (/wiki/Dolphin_shorts) gym (/wiki/Gym_shorts) hotpants (/wiki/Hotpants) running (/wiki/Running_shorts) Slim-fit (/wiki/Slim-fit_pants) Sweatpants (/wiki/Sweatpants) Windpants (/wiki/Windpants) Yoga pants (/wiki/Yoga_pants) Suits (/wiki/Suit) and uniforms (/wiki/Uniform) Ceremonial dress (/wiki/Ceremonial_dress) academic (/wiki/Academic_dress) court (/wiki/Court_dress) diplomatic (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) Folk (/wiki/Folk_costume) Jodhpuri (/wiki/Jodhpuri) Jumpsuit (/wiki/Jumpsuit) Military (/wiki/Military_uniform) full (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) mess (/wiki/Mess_dress_uniform) service (/wiki/Service_dress_uniform) sailor (/wiki/Sailor_suit) combat (/wiki/Combat_uniform) Pantsuit (/wiki/Pantsuit) Religious (/wiki/Religious_clothing) cassock (/wiki/Cassock) clerical (/wiki/Clerical_clothing) vestment (/wiki/Vestment) School (/wiki/School_uniform) Prison (/wiki/Prison_uniform) Workwear (/wiki/Workwear) boilersuit (/wiki/Boilersuit) cleanroom (/wiki/Cleanroom_suit) hazmat (/wiki/Hazmat_suit) space (/wiki/Space_suit) scrubs (/wiki/Scrubs_(clothing)) Dresses (/wiki/Dress) and gowns (/wiki/Gown) Formal, semi- formal, informal Backless (/wiki/Backless_dress) Bouffant gown (/wiki/Bouffant_gown) Coatdress (/wiki/Coatdress) Cocktail (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) little black (/wiki/Little_black_dress) Evening (/wiki/Evening_gown) ball gown (/wiki/Ball_gown) debutante (/wiki/Debutante_dress) Plain (/wiki/Plain_dress) Prairie (/wiki/Prairie_dress) Princess line (/wiki/Princess_line) Strapless (/wiki/Strapless_dress) Wedding (/wiki/Wedding_dress) Wrap (/wiki/Wrap_dress) Casual House (/wiki/House_dress) Jumper (/wiki/Jumper_(dress)) Romper suit (/wiki/Romper_suit) Sheath (/wiki/Sheath_dress) Shirtdress (/wiki/Shirtdress) Slip (/wiki/Slip_dress) Sundress (/wiki/Sundress) Skirts (/wiki/Skirt) A-line (/wiki/A-line_(clothing)) Ballerina (/wiki/Ballerina_skirt) Denim (/wiki/Denim_skirt) Men's (/wiki/Men%27s_skirts) Miniskirt (/wiki/Miniskirt) Pencil (/wiki/Pencil_skirt) Prairie (/wiki/Prairie_skirt) Rah-rah (/wiki/Rah-rah_skirt) Sarong (/wiki/Sarong) Skort (/wiki/Skort) Tutu (/wiki/Tutu_(clothing)) Wrap (/wiki/Wrap_(clothing)) Underwear (/wiki/Underwear) and lingerie (/wiki/Lingerie) Top Bra (/wiki/Bra) Camisole (/wiki/Camisole) Undershirt (/wiki/Undershirt) Bottom Diaper (/wiki/Diaper) Training pants (/wiki/Training_pants) Leggings (/wiki/Leggings) Panties (/wiki/Panties) Plastic pants (/wiki/Plastic_pants) Slip (/wiki/Slip_(clothing)) Thong (/wiki/Thong) Underpants (/wiki/Underpants) boxer briefs (/wiki/Boxer_briefs) boxer shorts (/wiki/Boxer_shorts) briefs (/wiki/Briefs) Full Bodysuit, adult (/wiki/Bodysuit) Bodysuit, infant (/wiki/Infant_bodysuit) Long underwear (/wiki/Long_underwear) See-through (/wiki/See-through_clothing) Teddy (/wiki/Teddy_(garment)) Coats (/wiki/Coat) and outerwear (/wiki/List_of_outerwear) Overcoats (/wiki/Overcoat) Car (/wiki/Car_coat) Chesterfield (/wiki/Chesterfield_coat) Covert (/wiki/Covert_coat) Duffel (/wiki/Duffel_coat) Duster (/wiki/Duster_(clothing)) Greatcoat (/wiki/Greatcoat) British Warm (/wiki/British_Warm) Guards Coat (/wiki/Guards_Coat) Greca (/wiki/Greca_(clothing)) Over-frock (/wiki/Over-frock_coat) Riding (/wiki/Riding_coat) shadbelly (/wiki/Shadbelly) Trench (/wiki/Trench_coat) Ulster (/wiki/Ulster_coat) Cloak (/wiki/Cloak) opera (/wiki/Opera_cloak) Paletot (/wiki/Paletot) Pea (/wiki/Pea_coat) Polo (/wiki/Polo_coat) Raincoat (/wiki/Raincoat) Mackintosh (/wiki/Mackintosh) Suit coats Frock coat (/wiki/Frock_coat) bekishe (/wiki/Bekishe) rekel (/wiki/Rekel) Mess jacket (/wiki/Mess_jacket) Suit jacket (/wiki/Suit_jacket) Blazer (/wiki/Blazer) smoking (/wiki/Smoking_jacket) sports (/wiki/Sport_coat) Teba (/wiki/Teba_jacket) Tailcoat (/wiki/Tailcoat) dress (/wiki/White_tie#Dress_coat) morning (/wiki/Morning_dress#Morning_coat) Other Apron (/wiki/Apron) pinafore (/wiki/Pinafore) Blouson (/wiki/Blouson) Cagoule (/wiki/Cagoule) Cape (/wiki/Cape) ferraiolo (/wiki/Ferraiolo) Inverness (/wiki/Inverness_cape) Mantle (/wiki/Mantle_(clothing)) monastic (/wiki/Mantle_(monastic_vesture)) royal (/wiki/Mantle_(royal_garment)) mozzetta (/wiki/Mozzetta) pellegrina (/wiki/Pellegrina) Coatee (/wiki/Coatee) Cut-off (/wiki/Cut-off) Gilet (/wiki/Gilet) Jacket (/wiki/Jacket) down (/wiki/Down_jacket) flight (/wiki/Flight_jacket) goggle (/wiki/Goggle_jacket) Harrington (/wiki/Harrington_jacket) leather (/wiki/Leather_jacket) mackinaw (/wiki/Mackinaw_jacket) Norfolk (/wiki/Norfolk_jacket) safari (/wiki/Safari_jacket) Jerkin (/wiki/Jerkin_(garment)) Lab coat (/wiki/White_coat) Parka (/wiki/Parka) Poncho (/wiki/Poncho) Robe (/wiki/Robe) bathrobe (/wiki/Bathrobe) dressing gown (/wiki/Dressing_gown) Shawl 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(/wiki/Portal:Clothing) v t e Fashion (/wiki/Fashion) articles Index of fashion articles (/wiki/Index_of_fashion_articles) General Environmental impact of fashion (/wiki/Environmental_impact_of_fashion) Fashion accessory (/wiki/Fashion_accessory) Fashion design (/wiki/Fashion_design) Fashion design copyright (/wiki/Fashion_design_copyright) Fashion matrix (/wiki/Fashion_matrix) Fashion museum (/wiki/Fashion_museum) Fashion plate (/wiki/Fashion_plate) Fashion tourism (/wiki/Fashion_tourism) Semiotics of fashion (/wiki/Semiotics_of_fashion) History (/wiki/History_of_fashion_design) History of clothing and textiles (/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles) History of Western fashion (/wiki/History_of_Western_fashion) History of fashion design (/wiki/History_of_fashion_design) Timeline of clothing and textiles technology (/wiki/Timeline_of_clothing_and_textiles_technology) 19th century (/wiki/19th_century_in_fashion) 21st century (/wiki/21st_century_in_fashion) Events 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British outdoor clothing and equipment brand For the German geographer, see Heinrich Berghaus (/wiki/Heinrich_Berghaus) . This article may rely excessively on sources too closely associated with the subject (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability#Self-published_sources) , potentially preventing the article from being verifiable (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) and neutral (/wiki/Wikipedia:Neutral_point_of_view) . Please help improve it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Berghaus&action=edit) by replacing them with more appropriate citations (/wiki/Wikipedia:Citing_sources) to reliable, independent, third-party sources (/wiki/Wikipedia:Identifying_and_using_independent_sources) . ( September 2021 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Berghaus Limited Company type Subsidiary (/wiki/Subsidiary) Industry Retail Founded 1966 ; 58 years ago ( 1966 ) , in Newcastle upon Tyne (/wiki/Newcastle_upon_Tyne) , England Headquarters Sunderland (/wiki/City_of_Sunderland) , England Products Clothing, outdoor gear Parent (/wiki/Parent_company) Pentland Group (/wiki/Pentland_Group) [1] (#cite_note-1) Website berghaus (http://berghaus.com) .com (http://berghaus.com) Berghaus Limited is a British outdoor (/wiki/Outdoor_activity) clothing and equipment brand founded in Newcastle upon Tyne (/wiki/Newcastle_upon_Tyne) , North East England (/wiki/North_East_England) , and now headquartered in nearby Sunderland (/wiki/City_of_Sunderland) . [2] (#cite_note-2) It was founded in 1966 by climbers (/wiki/Climbing) and mountaineers (/wiki/Mountaineers) Peter Lockey and Gordon Davison, initially as an importer and distributor of outdoors products. [3] (#cite_note-3) Lockey and Davison's outdoor store in Newcastle upon Tyne, went by the name of the LD Mountain Centre. [4] (#cite_note-4) In 1972 they began designing and manufacturing their own products for sale in their shop. They gave their brand the German (/wiki/German_language) name 'Berghaus' which translates as 'mountain house'. Berghaus offers a range of men's, women's and children's outdoor clothing (/wiki/Outdoor_clothing) and equipment, including waterproof jackets, fleeces (/wiki/Fleece_jacket) , baselayers (/wiki/Baselayers) and legwear. They also produce a selection of outdoor specific accessories and footwear (/wiki/Footwear) . History [ edit ] This section does not cite (/wiki/Wikipedia:Citing_sources) any sources (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this section (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Berghaus) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability#Burden_of_evidence) . ( October 2016 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) "It all began when climbers and mountaineers Peter Lockey and Gordon Davison from the North East of England, frustrated by what they saw as a lack of decent outdoor gear, decided to import and sell their own. Their specialist outdoor store in Newcastle upon Tyne, England, went by the name of the LD Mountain Centre and quickly gained a reputation for selling the very best in high-performance outdoor products from the likes of Atomic Skis (/wiki/Atomic_Skis) , Marker Bindings (/wiki/Marker_(ski_bindings)) and Nordica Ski (/wiki/Nordica_(company)) ." [5] (#cite_note-5) 1970s [ edit ] The first Berghaus rucksacks (/wiki/Rucksacks) were launched in 1970 – the Berg 172 and Berg 272 models had external frames and basic single compartments. These more traditional sacks were followed two years later in 1972 by the Cyclops rucksack – arguably the world's first rucksack with an internal frame. In 1977, Berghaus became one of Europe's pioneer users of Gore-Tex (/wiki/Gore-Tex) ® fabric, a new waterproof and breathable fabric. This was followed in 1979 by the development of the Yeti Gaiter , whose distinctive rubber rands were initially made from old tractor inner tubes. 1980s [ edit ] In the 1980s, the Gemini jacket was introduced, and is still in production today; it allowed a walking jacket to have a zip-in fleece. It was also in the early 1980s that mountaineer Sir Chris Bonington (/wiki/Sir_Chris_Bonington) , 'officially' wore Berghaus. It was also around this time that Alan Hinkes (/wiki/Alan_Hinkes) – who would go on to become the UK's most successful extreme altitude mountaineer – began working with the company. In 1986 the Extrem range was launched and included the Trango Jacket . The Attak sole unit was introduced the following year and exported around the world. Berghaus were awarded the Queen's Award for Export (/wiki/Queen%27s_Award_for_Export) in 1988 and the Northern Business Award for Exporter of the Year. [6] (#cite_note-6) 1990s [ edit ] In 1993, Pentland Group PLC (/wiki/Pentland_Group) , home to sports brands Speedo (/wiki/Speedo) and Ellesse (/wiki/Ellesse) , acquired Berghaus. [7] (#cite_note-7) In the early 1990s Berghaus launched its first footwear collection. This collection included the Storm boot, a three-season fabric hiking boot (/wiki/Hiking_boot) . As a new century approached Berghaus introduced the Simplex concept in 1997: the idea was that by minimising the layers of fabric in a garment and getting rid of any unnecessary styling you achieve a more breathable, lightweight product. In 1999, a new lightweight and packable outerwear was introduced – Gore-Tex PacLite , a waterproof, windproof and breathable range of clothing. The Nitro rucksack, introduced by Berghaus in 1998, was awarded the Millennium Product (/wiki/Millennium_Product) Award by the Design Council (/wiki/Design_Council) of Great Britain. 2000s–present [ edit ] MtnHaus [ edit ] In 2011, Berghaus announced that it had formed a design and development team called MtnHaus . The MtnHaus team works with Berghaus-sponsored athletes, such as Leo Houlding (/wiki/Leo_Houlding) and Mick Fowler (/wiki/Mick_Fowler) , to produce kit for specific challenges, which means extended design, development and testing periods. So far the MtnHaus team have produced five products including the Asgard Smock , which went through 18 prototypes before the design was finalised. In 2013, the team developed the award-winning Vapour Storm Jacket . Berghaus-sponsored athletes [ edit ] Berghaus now has a team of over 21 athletes from all over the globe, [8] (#cite_note-8) including: Climber Leo Houlding (/wiki/Leo_Houlding) Mountaineer Mick Fowler (/wiki/Mick_Fowler) Hand biker Karen Darke (/wiki/Karen_Darke) Berghaus has a number of shops in the UK, [9] (#cite_note-9) including Bristol (/wiki/Bristol) , Manchester (/wiki/Manchester) , Covent Garden (/wiki/Covent_Garden) in London (/wiki/London) , Dalton Park (/wiki/Dalton_Park) in County Durham (/wiki/County_Durham) , Bridgend (/wiki/Bridgend) and Gretna (/wiki/Gretna,_Scotland) . References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Our brand" (http://www.pentland.com/our-brands.html) . Pentland Brands plc . Retrieved 16 June 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Privacy" (https://web.archive.org/web/20140705095401/http://store.berghaus.com/s/privacy-4.html) . Berghaus. Archived from the original (http://store.berghaus.com/s/privacy-4.html) on 5 July 2014 . Retrieved 14 June 2014 . "Berghaus Ltd, 12 Colima Avenue, Sunderland Enterprise Park, Sunderland, SR5 3XB" ^ (#cite_ref-3) Whitfield, Graeme (2 July 2020). "Tributes to man who co-founded Berghaus brand from Newcastle city centre" (https://www.chroniclelive.co.uk/news/north-east-news/tributes-man-who-co-founded-18531772) . ChronicleLive . Retrieved 30 August 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Whitfield, Graeme (14 September 2021). "Berghaus sees demand increase as people take to the outdoors" (https://www.business-live.co.uk/retail-consumer/berghaus-sees-demand-increase-people-21565838) . Business Live . Retrieved 30 August 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Berghaus History: 1966 - 1970" (https://web.archive.org/web/20140706121004/http://store.berghaus.com/s/berghaushistory.html) . Berghaus. Archived from the original (http://store.berghaus.com/s/berghaushistory.html) on 6 July 2014 . Retrieved 16 June 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Whitfield, Graeme (3 July 2020). "Tributes paid to Berghausco- founder after death at the age of 85" (https://www.business-live.co.uk/enterprise/tributes-paid-berghaus-co-founder-18537097) . Business Live . Retrieved 30 August 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) WW, FashionNetwork com. "Pentland Brands names Wright new director of creative" (https://ww.fashionnetwork.com/news/Pentland-brands-names-wright-new-director-of-creative,1431981.html) . FashionNetwork.com . Retrieved 30 August 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "Athletes" (http://www.berghaus.com/en/ber2012/athletes_2/athleteoverviewall.html) . Berghaus . Retrieved 16 June 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Store Finder" (http://store.berghaus.com/stores) . Berghaus . Retrieved 16 June 2014 . External links [ edit ] North East England portal (/wiki/Portal:North_East_England) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Companies portal (/wiki/Portal:Companies) Berghaus Website (http://berghaus.com/) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.eqiad.main‐b7d4d997‐wl5hx Cached time: 20240701004331 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.363 seconds Real time usage: 0.568 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 2097/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 35841/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 2225/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 15/100 Expensive parser function count: 9/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 38892/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.227/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 6608416/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 488.914 1 -total 28.28% 138.250 1 Template:Infobox_company 27.22% 133.063 1 Template:Reflist 26.24% 128.285 1 Template:Infobox 23.72% 115.953 9 Template:Cite_web 14.19% 69.392 1 Template:Short_description 11.10% 54.254 1 Template:Third-party 10.10% 49.367 2 Template:Ambox 8.56% 41.866 2 Template:Pagetype 7.70% 37.669 1 Template:Comma_separated_entries Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:2233728-0!canonical and timestamp 20240701004331 and revision id 1212848031. Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Berghaus&oldid=1212848031 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Berghaus&oldid=1212848031) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Outdoor clothing brands (/wiki/Category:Outdoor_clothing_brands) Clothing brands of the United Kingdom (/wiki/Category:Clothing_brands_of_the_United_Kingdom) British brands (/wiki/Category:British_brands) Climbing and mountaineering equipment companies (/wiki/Category:Climbing_and_mountaineering_equipment_companies) Hidden categories: Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description is different from Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_is_different_from_Wikidata) Articles lacking reliable references from September 2021 (/wiki/Category:Articles_lacking_reliable_references_from_September_2021) All articles lacking reliable references (/wiki/Category:All_articles_lacking_reliable_references) EngvarB from January 2014 (/wiki/Category:EngvarB_from_January_2014) Use dmy dates from December 2020 (/wiki/Category:Use_dmy_dates_from_December_2020) Articles needing additional references from October 2016 (/wiki/Category:Articles_needing_additional_references_from_October_2016) All articles needing additional references (/wiki/Category:All_articles_needing_additional_references)

Form-fitting strapless undergarment Bustier Type form-fitting garment Classic corset (/wiki/Corset) from 1913 A bustier ( UK (/wiki/British_English) : / (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) ˈ b uː s t i eɪ , (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) ˈ b ʌ s t -/ (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) BOO -stee-ay, BUST -ee-ay , US (/wiki/American_English) : / (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) b uː ˈ s t j eɪ , (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) ˌ b uː s t i ˈ eɪ , (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) ˌ b ʌ s t -/ (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) boo- STYAY , BOO -stee- AY , BUST -ee- AY ) or bustiere is a form-fitting garment (/wiki/Form-fitting_garment) for women (/wiki/Women) traditionally worn as lingerie (/wiki/Lingerie) . Its primary purpose is to push up the bust (/wiki/Breast) by tightening against the upper midriff (/wiki/Midriff) and forcing the breasts up while gently shaping the waist. Nowadays, it might also be worn as a push-up bra (/wiki/Push-up_bra) under a low-backed dress or as a camisole (/wiki/Camisole) for outerwear. The bustier can also be worn as a half-slip (/wiki/Slip_(clothing)) under sheer (/wiki/Sheer_fabric) upper garments if a bold display of the midriff is not desired. [1] (#cite_note-1) A bustier resembles a basque (/wiki/Basque_(clothing)) , but it is shorter. It reaches down only to the ribs or waist. Modern bustiers are often made with mesh panels rather than the traditional boning (/wiki/Bone_(corsetry)) . See also [ edit ] Bodystocking (/wiki/Bodystocking) Bra (/wiki/Bra) Bralette (/wiki/Bralette) Corset (/wiki/Corset) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Hogarty, Sarah Bailey (June 7, 2012). "Corsets in Context: A History" (https://web.archive.org/web/20180612144704/http://deyoung.famsf.org/blog/corsets-context-history) . Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco (/wiki/Fine_Arts_Museums_of_San_Francisco) . FAMSF Blog. Archived from the original (http://deyoung.famsf.org/blog/corsets-context-history) on June 12, 2018 . Retrieved May 7, 2015 . v t e Lingerie (/wiki/Lingerie) Upper torso Types (/wiki/List_of_bra_designs) of bras (/wiki/Bra) History (/wiki/History_of_bras) Bandeau (/wiki/Bandeau) Bralette (/wiki/Bralette) Nursing bra (/wiki/Nursing_bra) Sports bra (/wiki/Sports_bra) Training bra (/wiki/Training_bra) Underwire bra (/wiki/Underwire_bra) Male bra (/wiki/Male_bra) Other garments Babydoll (/wiki/Babydoll) Bustier Camisole (/wiki/Camisole) Dudou (/wiki/Dudou) Negligee (/wiki/Negligee) Nightgown (/wiki/Nightgown) Torsolette (/wiki/Torsolette) Yếm (/wiki/Y%E1%BA%BFm) Lower torso Bikini (/wiki/Bikini) Boyshorts (/wiki/Boyshorts) French knickers (/wiki/French_knickers) Fundoshi (/wiki/Fundoshi) Girdle (/wiki/Girdle_(undergarment)) Girl boxers (/wiki/Girl_boxers) Panties (/wiki/Panties) Period underwear (/wiki/Period_underwear) Tanga (/wiki/Thong) Tap pants (/wiki/Tap_pants) Thong (/wiki/Thong) ( G-string (/wiki/G-string) ) Bloomers (/wiki/Bloomers) Full torso Bodice (/wiki/Bodice) Corset (/wiki/Corset) Corselet (/wiki/Corselet) Foundation garment (/wiki/Foundation_garment) Nightshirt (/wiki/Nightshirt) Playsuit (/wiki/Playsuit_(lingerie)) Slip (/wiki/Slip_(clothing)) Teddy (/wiki/Teddy_(garment)) Hosiery (/wiki/Hosiery) Bodystocking (/wiki/Bodystocking) Garter (/wiki/Garter) Hold-ups (/wiki/Hold-ups) Knee highs (/wiki/Knee_highs) Pantyhose (/wiki/Pantyhose) Stocking (/wiki/Stocking) Tights (/wiki/Tights) Historical Basque (/wiki/Basque_(clothing)) Boudoir cap (/wiki/Boudoir_cap) Bustle (/wiki/Bustle) Chemise (/wiki/Chemise) Crinoline (/wiki/Crinoline) Farthingale (/wiki/Farthingale) Hoop skirt (/wiki/Hoop_skirt) Liberty bodice (/wiki/Liberty_bodice) Pannier (/wiki/Pannier_(clothing)) Pantalettes (/wiki/Pantalettes) Petticoat (/wiki/Petticoat) Pettipants (/wiki/Pettipants) Waist cincher (/wiki/Waist_cincher) Accessories Falsies (/wiki/Falsies) Lingerie tape (/wiki/Lingerie_tape) Brands List of lingerie brands (/wiki/List_of_lingerie_brands) Retail Bras N Things (/wiki/Bras_N_Things) Cosmo Lady (/wiki/Cosmo_Lady) Figleaves (/wiki/Figleaves) HerRoom (/wiki/HerRoom) Journelle (/wiki/Journelle) True & Co. (/wiki/True_%26_Co.) Related Corset controversy (/wiki/Corset_controversy) Bralessness (/wiki/Bralessness) Lingerie party (/wiki/Lingerie_party) UK Lingerie Awards (/wiki/UK_Lingerie_Awards) Portal (/wiki/Wikipedia:Contents/Portals) : Fashion (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Bustier at Wikipedia's sister projects : Definitions (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/bustier) from Wiktionary Media (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Bustier) from Commons Data (https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q740996) from Wikidata This clothing (/wiki/Clothing) -related article is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . You can help Wikipedia by expanding it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Bustier&action=edit) . v t e NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6f54559974‐kcpmq Cached time: 20240719050453 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1] CPU time usage: 0.325 seconds Real time usage: 0.451 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 719/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 31356/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 531/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 8/100 Expensive parser function count: 2/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 22599/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.229/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 4329254/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 397.040 1 -total 21.37% 84.858 1 Template:Reflist 19.82% 78.708 1 Template:Subject_bar 19.82% 78.678 1 Template:Lingerie 19.77% 78.493 2 Template:Navbox 18.48% 73.373 1 Template:Cite_web 17.21% 68.325 1 Template:Short_description 10.06% 39.958 2 Template:Pagetype 8.70% 34.525 1 Template:Infobox_clothing_item 8.29% 32.915 1 Template:Infobox Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:2247167-0!canonical and timestamp 20240719050453 and revision id 1221921466. 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Mechanical knitting machine Stocking frame at Ruddington (/wiki/Ruddington) Framework Knitters' Museum A stocking frame was a mechanical knitting machine (/wiki/Knitting_machine) used in the textiles (/wiki/Textiles) industry. It was invented by William Lee (/wiki/William_Lee_(inventor)) of Calverton (/wiki/Calverton,_Nottinghamshire) near Nottingham (/wiki/Nottingham) in 1589. Its use, known traditionally as framework knitting, was the first major stage in the mechanisation of the textile industry, and played an important part in the early history of the Industrial Revolution (/wiki/Industrial_Revolution) . It was adapted to knit cotton and to do ribbing, and by 1800 had been adapted as a lace making machine (/wiki/Lace_machine) . Description [ edit ] Six stages in the knitting machine cycle Lee's machine consisted of a stout wooden frame. It did straight knitting, not tubular knitting. It had a separate needle for each loop - these were low carbon steel bearded needles where the tips were reflexed and could be depressed onto a hollow, closing the loop. The needles were supported on a needle bar that passed back and forth, to and from the operator. The beards were simultaneously depressed by a presser bar. The first machine had eight needles per inch and was suitable for worsted. The next version had 16 needles per inch and was suitable for silk. [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEEarnshaw198612,_13-1) The mechanical movements: [2] (#cite_note-Freer-2) The needle bar goes forward; the open needles clear the web. The weft thread is laid on the needles; the jack sinkers descend and form loops. The weft thread is pushed down by the divider bar. The jack sinkers come forward pulling the thread into the beard of the open needles. The presser bar drops, the needle loops close and the old row of stitches is drawn off the needle. The jack sinkers come down in front of the knitting and pull it up so the process can begin again. History [ edit ] Stocking frame The machine imitated the movements of hand knitters. Lee demonstrated the operation of the device to Queen Elizabeth I (/wiki/Queen_Elizabeth_I) , hoping to obtain a patent (/wiki/Patent) , but she refused, fearing the effects on hand-knitting industries. The original frame had eight needles to the inch, which produced only coarse fabric. Lee later improved the mechanism with 20 needles to the inch. By 1598 he was able to knit stockings from silk (/wiki/Silk) , as well as wool, but was again refused a patent by James I (/wiki/James_I_of_England) . Lee moved to France, under the patronage of Henri IV (/wiki/Henri_IV) , with his workers and his machines, but was unable to sustain his business. He died in Paris around 1614. Most of his workers returned to England (/wiki/England) with their frames, which were sold in London (/wiki/London) . [3] (#cite_note-VW-Lee-3) The commercial failure of Lee's design might have led to a dead-end for the knitting machine, but John Ashton, one of Lee's assistants, made a crucial improvement by adding the mechanism known as a "divider". [3] (#cite_note-VW-Lee-3) This is used after the jack sinkers have pulled down a large loop over all the needles, and the sinker bar has separated out the loop, the dividers are rested on the loop to give the bearded needles guidance as they are pulled forward. Development [ edit ] A thriving business built up with the exiled Huguenot (/wiki/Huguenot) silk-spinners who had settled in the village of Spitalfields (/wiki/Spitalfields) just outside the city of London. In 1663, the Worshipful Company of Framework Knitters (/wiki/Worshipful_Company_of_Framework_Knitters) was issued a royal charter. By about 1785, however, demand was rising for cheaper stockings made of cotton (/wiki/Cotton) . The frame was adapted but became too expensive for individuals to buy; thus, wealthy men bought the machines and hired them out to the knitters, providing the materials and buying the finished product. With increasing competition, they ignored the standards set by the Chartered Company. Frames were introduced to Leicester (/wiki/Leicester) by Nicholas Alsop in around 1680, who encountered resistance and at first worked secretly in a cellar in Northgate Street, taking his own sons and the children of near relatives as apprentices. [4] (#cite_note-4) In 1728, the Nottingham magistrates refused to accept the authority of the London Company, and the centre of the trade moved northwards to Nottingham, which also had a lace (/wiki/Lace) making industry. The breakthrough with cotton stockings came in 1758 when Jedediah Strutt (/wiki/Jedediah_Strutt) introduced an attachment for the frame which produced what became known as the "Derby rib". The Nottingham frameworkers found themselves increasingly short of raw materials. Initially they used thread spun in India (/wiki/India) , but this was expensive and required doubling. Lancashire (/wiki/Lancashire) yarn was spun for fustian (/wiki/Fustian) and varied in texture. They tried spinning cotton themselves but, being used to the long fibres of wool, experienced great difficulty. Meanwhile, the Gloucester (/wiki/Gloucester) spinners, who had been used to a much shorter wool, were able to handle cotton and their frameworkers were competing with the Nottingham producers. Influence on the Industrial Revolution [ edit ] It was then that Richard Arkwright (/wiki/Richard_Arkwright) arrived with his new experimental spinning machinery. He initially built a works operated by horsepower but it was evident that six to eight would be needed at a time, changed every half-hour. He moved to Cromford (/wiki/Cromford) and set up what became known as the water frame (/wiki/Water_frame) . Strutt, as his partner, set up mills at Belper (/wiki/Belper) and Milford (/wiki/Milford,_Derbyshire) . Thus the area joined Nottingham in producing cotton stockings, while Derby (/wiki/Derby) , with its mills originated by John Lombe (/wiki/John_Lombe) continued largely with silk; Leicester, a farming area, continued with wool (/wiki/Wool) . For mechanical power to be applied to a stocking frame, it had to be adapted for rotary motion. In 1769, Samuel Wise, a clockmaker, took out a patent for changing the hand frame into a rotary. In Nottingham's case, steam coal was easily available from the Nottinghamshire coalfield. [5] (#cite_note-5) By 1812, there were estimated to be over 25,000 frames in use, most of them in the three counties, and the frame had come back to Calverton. Derby Rib machine [ edit ] The Derby Rib machine (/wiki/Derby_Rib) was invented in 1757 by Strutt (/wiki/Jedediah_Strutt) . It consisted of an extra set of bearded needles that operated vertically, taking the loop and reversing them. This allowed a plain and purl (/wiki/Purl_stitch) knit to be used, and led to ribbing (/wiki/Ribbing_(knitting)) and a tighter more flexible fabric. [6] (#cite_note-6) To do a 3:1 rib, there would be one vertical needle after every third horizontal needle. [7] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEEarnshaw198618-7) Lace making [ edit ] Lacey knits can be achieved by slipping a stitch, picking up a stitch or knitting two together. On a frame, a tickler wire could realise individual loops and create a run that would be picked up by hand. The frame was modified by adding a tickler bar and a tuck presser, to allow held and tuck stitches. Here the weft was held in the beard and carried up to the next course where two threads were passed together. Messrs Morris and Betts took a patent (807) in 1764 on a stitch transfer device where threads from one needle were passed to another. With tuck stitches, this created 'eyelet holes'. Partial stitch transfer produced a marker stitch. [8] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEEarnshaw198619-8) In 1764, a profound change was made to the stocking frame that enabled it to produce weft-knitted nets. Hammond, the attributed inventor, used ticklers to stitch-transfer from one needle to the third one along crossing over two intermediate needles creating a cross stitch. He also used a tickler to move two stitches two to the right, and then two to the left in a double cross stitch, Valenciennes lace (/wiki/Valenciennes_lace) . To do this the tickler bar was detached from the frame and attached to 'dogs', that is, jointed arms. This allowed forward motion to scoop, and sideways motion to shog. New inventions were patented: Frost's tickler net of 1769, the two plain net of 1777 and the square net of 1781, and their patents were fiercely defended. Harvey changed the shape of the tickler wires to avoid one in his pin machine. This became popular in Lyon and Paris where 2000 frames were in use in 1800. [9] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEEarnshaw198621-9) In 1803 cotton was used with silk, as Houldsworths (/wiki/Houldsworth_Mill,_Reddish) were producing 300 count cotton. [10] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEEarnshaw198624-10) Postscript [ edit ] A legend later developed that Lee had invented the first machine in order to get revenge on a lover who had preferred to concentrate on her knitting rather than attend to him. A painting illustrating this story was once displayed in the Stocking Framer's Guild (/wiki/Worshipful_Company_of_Framework_Knitters) hall in London. In 1846 the Victorian artist Alfred Elmore (/wiki/Alfred_Elmore) produced a variation on the story in his popular painting The Invention of the Stocking Loom , in which Lee is depicted pondering his idea as he watches his wife knitting (Nottingham Castle Museum). See also [ edit ] Luddism (/wiki/Luddism) Protection of Stocking Frames, etc. Act 1788 (/wiki/Protection_of_Stocking_Frames,_etc._Act_1788) Destruction of Stocking Frames, etc. Act 1812 (/wiki/Destruction_of_Stocking_Frames,_etc._Act_1812) Water frame (/wiki/Water_frame) Bobbinet (/wiki/Bobbinet) Worshipful Company of Framework Knitters (/wiki/Worshipful_Company_of_Framework_Knitters) where it appears in their coat of arms References [ edit ] Notes [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEEarnshaw198612,_13_1-0) Earnshaw 1986 (#CITEREFEarnshaw1986) , pp. 12, 13. ^ (#cite_ref-Freer_2-0) Freer, Wendy (23 June 2010). "Framework Knitting" (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oWfzzfjMa6k&t=312s) . Leicestershire Industrial History Society . Retrieved 6 December 2016 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Rev. William Lee, inventor of the Stocking Frame" (http://www.victorianweb.org/technology/inventors/lee.html) . www.victorianweb.org . Retrieved 6 December 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) John Gough Nichols (/wiki/John_Gough_Nichols) , 'Notes on ancient hosiery', Leicester Architectural and Archaeological Society, Hinckley, July 1864; R.A. McKinley (Ed.), (Occupations: The hosiery industry), 'The City of Leicester: Social and administrative history, 1660-1835', A History of the County of Leicester, IV: The City of Leicester (1958), pp. 153-200; J. Thompson (/wiki/James_Thompson_(journalist)) , The History of Leicester in the 18th Century (Leicester & London 1871), pp. 254-57. ^ (#cite_ref-5) Mellors, Robert (1908). Nicholson, A P (ed.). In and about Nottinghamshire . Nottinghamshire History:Resources for Genealogist . Retrieved 8 December 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Jedediah Strutt" (http://spartacus-educational.com/TEXstrutt.htm) . Spartacus Educational . Retrieved 6 December 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEEarnshaw198618_7-0) Earnshaw 1986 (#CITEREFEarnshaw1986) , p. 18. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEEarnshaw198619_8-0) Earnshaw 1986 (#CITEREFEarnshaw1986) , p. 19. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEEarnshaw198621_9-0) Earnshaw 1986 (#CITEREFEarnshaw1986) , p. 21. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEEarnshaw198624_10-0) Earnshaw 1986 (#CITEREFEarnshaw1986) , p. 24. Bibliography [ edit ] Earnshaw, Pat (1986). Lace Machines and Machine Laces . Batsford. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0713446846 . Cooper, B., (1983) Transformation of a Valley: The Derbyshire Derwent, Heinneman, republished 1991 Cromford: Scarthin Books External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Stocking frame (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Stocking_frame) . Leicestershire Industrial History Society explanatory video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oWfzzfjMa6k) featuring Martin Green Ruddington Framework Knitters' Museum (https://www.frameworkknittersmuseum.org.uk) William Lee - The Triumphs and Trials of an Elizabethan Inventor (http://www.calvertonvillage.com/Willlee.html) Brown, Thomas (1911). "Hosiery" (https://en.wikisource.org/wiki/1911_Encyclop%C3%A6dia_Britannica/Hosiery) . Encyclopædia Britannica (/wiki/Encyclop%C3%A6dia_Britannica_Eleventh_Edition) . Vol. 13 (11th ed.). p. 788. Wigston Framework Knitters Museum, Leicestershire (http://www.le.ac.uk/emoha/community/resources/hosiery/museum.html) Historic Highlights in Development of Hosiery-Knitting (http://www.textilehistory.org/DevelopmentlHosieryKnitting.html) by Mildred Barnwell Andrews v t e Knitting (/wiki/Knitting) Tools and materials Knitting needle (/wiki/Knitting_needle) Knitting needle cap (/wiki/Knitting_needle_cap) Needle gauge (/wiki/Hook_gauge) List of yarns for crochet and knitting (/wiki/List_of_yarns_for_crochet_and_knitting) Row counter (/wiki/Row_counter_(hand_knitting)) Stitch holder (/wiki/Stitch_holder) Yarn (/wiki/Yarn) styles Bouclé (/wiki/Boucl%C3%A9) Eyelash (/wiki/Eyelash_yarn) Lopi (/wiki/Lopi_(knitting)) Novelty (/wiki/Novelty_yarns) Variegated (/wiki/Variegated_yarn) Yarn brands Coats Group (/wiki/Coats_Group) Eisaku Noro Company (/wiki/Eisaku_Noro_Company) Kraemer Yarns (/wiki/Kraemer_Textiles_Inc.) 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(/w/index.php?title=Mezzopunto&action=edit&redlink=1) Princess (/wiki/Princess_lace) Renaissance (/wiki/Renaissance_lace) Battenberg (/wiki/Battenberg_lace) Romanian point (/wiki/Romanian_point_lace) Branscombe (/wiki/Branscombe_lace) Crocheted lace (/wiki/Crocheted_lace) Broomstick lace (/wiki/Broomstick_lace) Irish crochet (/wiki/Irish_lace) Hairpin (/wiki/Hairpin_lace) Filet crochet (/wiki/Filet_crochet) Orvieto lace (/w/index.php?title=Orvieto_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Machine (/wiki/Lace_machine) -made lace Bobbinet (/wiki/Bobbinet) Leavers (/wiki/Leavers_machine) Pusher (/wiki/Pusher_machine) Barmen (/wiki/Barmen_lace_machine) Curtain Machine (/wiki/Nottingham_lace_curtain_machine) Chemical (/wiki/Chemical_lace) Raschel (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Stocking Frame Warp Knit (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Other handmade laces Metal laces (/wiki/Metal_lace) Lace knitting (/wiki/Lace_knitting) Macramé (/wiki/Macram%C3%A9) Tatting (/wiki/Tatting) Punto a groppo (/wiki/Punto_a_groppo) Sprang 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French multinational corporation This article contains content that is written like an advertisement (/wiki/Wikipedia:What_Wikipedia_is_not#Wikipedia_is_not_a_soapbox_or_means_of_promotion) . Please help improve it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Kering&action=edit) by removing promotional content (/wiki/Wikipedia:Spam) and inappropriate external links (/wiki/Wikipedia:External_links#Advertising_and_conflicts_of_interest) , and by adding encyclopedic content written from a neutral point of view (/wiki/Wikipedia:Neutral_point_of_view) . ( July 2023 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Kering Formerly Pinault S.A. Pinault-Printemps-Redoute PPR Company type Public (/wiki/Public_company) ( Société Anonyme (/wiki/S.A._(corporation)) ) Traded as (/wiki/Ticker_symbol) Euronext Paris (/wiki/Euronext_Paris) : KER (https://euronext.com/products/equities/FR0000121485-XPAR) CAC 40 Component (/wiki/CAC_40) ISIN (/wiki/International_Securities_Identification_Number) FR0000121485 Industry Luxury (/wiki/Luxury_goods) Founded 1962 ; 62 years ago ( 1962 ) Founder François Pinault (/wiki/Fran%C3%A7ois_Pinault) Headquarters 40 rue de Sèvres, Paris 7e, France Key people François-Henri Pinault (/wiki/Fran%C3%A7ois-Henri_Pinault) ( Chairman (/wiki/Chairman) and CEO (/wiki/Chief_executive_officer) ) Products Luxury goods Revenue €19.6 billion (/wiki/Billion) (2023) Operating income (/wiki/Earnings_before_interest_and_taxes) €4.7 billion (2023) Net income (/wiki/Net_income) €3.0 billion (2023) Total assets (/wiki/Asset) €41.367 billion (2023) Total equity (/wiki/Equity_(finance)) €41.367 billion (2023) Number of employees 49,000 (2023) Subsidiaries (/wiki/Subsidiary) Alexander McQueen (/wiki/Alexander_McQueen_(brand)) Balenciaga (/wiki/Balenciaga) Bottega Veneta (/wiki/Bottega_Veneta) Boucheron (/wiki/Boucheron) Brioni (/wiki/Brioni_(fashion)) Creed (/wiki/Creed_(perfume)) Gucci (/wiki/Gucci) Pomellato (/wiki/Pomellato) Qeelin (/wiki/Qeelin) Yves Saint Laurent (/wiki/Yves_Saint_Laurent_(brand)) Website kering (http://kering.com) .com (http://kering.com) Footnotes / references [1] (#cite_note-results2023-1) Kering ( French: [kɛːʁiŋ] (/wiki/Help:IPA/French) ) is a French-based multinational corporation (/wiki/Multinational_corporation) specializing in luxury goods (/wiki/Luxury_goods) . It owns the brands Gucci (/wiki/Gucci) , Balenciaga (/wiki/Balenciaga) , Bottega Veneta (/wiki/Bottega_Veneta) , Yves Saint Laurent (/wiki/Yves_Saint_Laurent_(fashion_house)) , Creed (/wiki/Creed_(perfume)) and Alexander McQueen (/wiki/Alexander_McQueen_(fashion_house)) . The timber-trading company Pinault S.A. was founded in 1962, by François Pinault (/wiki/Fran%C3%A7ois_Pinault) . After the company was quoted on Euronext Paris (/wiki/Euronext_Paris) in 1988, it became the retail conglomerate Pinault-Printemps-Redoute ( PPR ) in 1994, and the luxury group Kering in 2013. The group has been a constituent of the CAC 40 (/wiki/CAC_40) since 1995. François-Henri Pinault (/wiki/Fran%C3%A7ois-Henri_Pinault) has been president and CEO of Kering since 2005. In 2023, the group's revenue reached €19.6 billion. History [ edit ] Timber (1962-1988) [ edit ] Main article: François Pinault (/wiki/Fran%C3%A7ois_Pinault) In 1962, François Pinault (/wiki/Fran%C3%A7ois_Pinault) opened the Établissements Pinault in Brittany (/wiki/Brittany) (France) specialized in timber trading with a 100,000 francs loan from the bank. [2] (#cite_note-guardian1999-2) His business grew rapidly by acquiring many failing local timber operations and building its own import bridges, turning Pinault S.A. into a leading timber trader in France in the 1980s. By 1988, the group owned 180 companies and 33 factories for an annual revenue of 10 billion francs. [3] (#cite_note-3) Retail (1988-2013) [ edit ] In 1988, Pinault S.A. was listed on the Paris Stock Exchange (/wiki/Paris_Stock_Exchange) . [2] (#cite_note-guardian1999-2) In 1989, Pinault S.A. purchased 20% of CFAO, a French distribution conglomerate active throughout Africa. In 1990, Pinault S.A. and CFAO merged, and François Pinault became head of the newly formed group which acquired Conforama (/wiki/Conforama) (French furniture retailer) in 1991, Printemps (/wiki/Printemps) (department stores in France) in 1992, which also owned 54% of La Redoute (/wiki/La_Redoute) (French mail-order shopping retailer), and Fnac (/wiki/Fnac) (French bookstore, multimedia and electronics retailer) in 1994. The group was renamed Pinault-Printemps-Redoute in 1994. [2] (#cite_note-guardian1999-2) In 1999, Pinault-Printemps-Redoute purchased a controlling 42% stake of the Gucci group (/wiki/Gucci_group) for $3 billion and 100% of Yves Saint Laurent (/wiki/Yves_Saint_Laurent_(brand)) . [4] (#cite_note-:0-4) [5] (#cite_note-:1-5) [6] (#cite_note-6) Through Gucci, Pinault-Printemps-Redoute acquired Boucheron (/wiki/Boucheron) in 2000, [7] (#cite_note-:2-7) Bottega Veneta (/wiki/Bottega_Veneta) in 2001, [8] (#cite_note-:3-8) Balenciaga (/wiki/Balenciaga) in 2001, [9] (#cite_note-:4-9) and signed partnerships with Alexander McQueen (/wiki/Alexander_McQueen) [10] (#cite_note-:5-10) and Stella McCartney (/wiki/Stella_McCartney) . [11] (#cite_note-11) In 2003, François-Henri Pinault, son of the founder François Pinault, became general manager of Artémis, the family holding company that controlled Pinault-Printemps-Redoute. In 2005, he was named president and CEO of Pinault-Printemps-Redoute, [12] (#cite_note-nyt_curtain-12) a year after the group had reached a 99.4% ownership of Gucci (/wiki/Gucci_group) . [13] (#cite_note-13) The group continued acquiring luxury brands: Sowind Group (/wiki/Sowind_Group) (watch company owner of Girard-Perregaux (/wiki/Girard-Perregaux) ) [14] (#cite_note-14) and Brioni (/wiki/Brioni_(fashion)) (Italian tailor) in 2011, [15] (#cite_note-:6-15) Pomellato Group (jewelry company owner of Pomellato (/wiki/Pomellato) and Dodo) [16] (#cite_note-:8-16) and Qeelin (/wiki/Qeelin) (jewelry) in 2012, [17] (#cite_note-:7-17) Christopher Kane (/wiki/Christopher_Kane) (British fashion house) [18] (#cite_note-18) and Richard Ginori (/wiki/Richard_Ginori) (porcelain) in 2013, [19] (#cite_note-:13-19) Ulysse Nardin (/wiki/Ulysse_Nardin) (watches) in 2014. [20] (#cite_note-20) The group also sold its retail assets: Le Printemps in 2006, [21] (#cite_note-21) Conforama in 2011, [22] (#cite_note-22) CFAO in 2012, [23] (#cite_note-23) Fnac in 2012, and La Redoute in 2013. [24] (#cite_note-24) PPR developed a Sport & Lifestyle portfolio with the acquisition of Puma (/wiki/Puma_(brand)) in 2007, [12] (#cite_note-nyt_curtain-12) Cobra Golf (/wiki/Cobra_Golf) in 2010, [25] (#cite_note-25) and Volcom (/wiki/Volcom) in 2011, [26] (#cite_note-26) all of which were sold the following decade. [27] (#cite_note-27) Luxury (since 2013) [ edit ] In March 2013, PPR changed its name to Kering. [28] (#cite_note-28) The leather-weaver Bottega Veneta was transformed into a "quiet luxury" icon, hitting the billion-dollar mark in sales in 2012. [29] (#cite_note-29) In 2014, Kering created its own eyewear production arm, Kering Eyewear, growing its revenue to 1.5 billion euros in 2023, and acquired the eyewear brands Lindberg (/wiki/Lindberg_(eyewear)) in 2021 [30] (#cite_note-:12-30) and Maui Jim (/wiki/Maui_Jim) in 2022. [31] (#cite_note-:11-31) The traditional Balenciaga house was turned into a disruptive fashion house [32] (#cite_note-32) and Yves Saint Laurent hit the 2-billion dollar sales mark in 2019. [33] (#cite_note-33) However, from 2015 to 2022, the group's revenue was essentially driven by Gucci's year-on-year high performance, hitting the 10-billion dollars sales mark in 2022. [34] (#cite_note-34) The group divested its interests in Stella McCartney (/wiki/Stella_McCartney) in 2018, [35] (#cite_note-35) Christopher Kane in 2019, [36] (#cite_note-36) and its entire watch division (Girard-Perregaux and Ulysse Nardin) in 2022. [37] (#cite_note-37) In 2023, Kering's annual results declined to 19.6 billion (-4%), mainly caused by the deceleration of Gucci's streak, a transition phase according to the group's executives. [38] (#cite_note-38) That same year, Kering Beauté was launched to manage in-house the development of beauty products for the group's brands. [39] (#cite_note-:10-39) Activities [ edit ] Kering's headquarters are located in the former Hopital Laennec in the 7th arrondissement of Paris. The parent holding company of Kering is Groupe Artémis (/wiki/Groupe_Art%C3%A9mis) . In 2023, Kering made 19.6 billion euros in revenue. The group has 46,000 employees and 1,381 stores. [1] (#cite_note-results2023-1) Kering fully or partially owns the following brands: Brand Acquisition Year Country Gucci (/wiki/Gucci) 1999 [4] (#cite_note-:0-4) Italy Yves Saint Laurent (/wiki/Yves_Saint_Laurent_(brand)) 1999 [5] (#cite_note-:1-5) France Boucheron (/wiki/Boucheron) 2000 [7] (#cite_note-:2-7) France Bottega Veneta (/wiki/Bottega_Veneta) 2001 [8] (#cite_note-:3-8) Italy Balenciaga (/wiki/Balenciaga) 2001 [9] (#cite_note-:4-9) Spain Alexander McQueen (/wiki/Alexander_McQueen_(brand)) 2001 [10] (#cite_note-:5-10) UK Brioni (/wiki/Brioni_(fashion)) 2011 [15] (#cite_note-:6-15) Italy Qeelin (/wiki/Qeelin) 2012 [17] (#cite_note-:7-17) China Pomellato (/wiki/Pomellato) 2012 [16] (#cite_note-:8-16) Italy Dodo (/wiki/Pomellato#Dodo) 2012 [16] (#cite_note-:8-16) Italy Ginori 1735 (formerly Richard Ginori (/wiki/Richard_Ginori) ) 2013 [19] (#cite_note-:13-19) Italy Lindberg (/wiki/Lindberg_(eyewear)) 2021 [30] (#cite_note-:12-30) Denmark Maui Jim (/wiki/Maui_Jim) 2022 [31] (#cite_note-:11-31) United States Creed (/wiki/Creed_(perfume)) 2023 [40] (#cite_note-40) UK/France Valentino (/wiki/Valentino_(fashion_house)) (30%) 2023 [41] (#cite_note-41) Italy Kering also owns Kering Eyewear (luxury eyewear production arm) [42] (#cite_note-:9-42) and Kering Beauté (cosmetics division). [39] (#cite_note-:10-39) Governance [ edit ] François-Henri Pinault (/wiki/Fran%C3%A7ois-Henri_Pinault) is the chairman of the board of Kering. Financial data [ edit ] Results (in € millions) Year 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2023 Sales 17 931 17 761 20 201 16 525 11 008 12 227 9 736 9 748 10 037 11 584 12 385 15 478 13 665.2 15 883.3 13 100.2 19 566 EBITDA (/wiki/EBITDA) 1 540 2 096 2 140 1 790 1 649 1 911 2 067 1 750 1 647 1 886 2 948 3 943.8 4 778.3 4 574.2 Net results 680 1 058 924 985 965 986 1 048 50 528.9 696 814 1 786 3 714.9 3 211.5 1 972.2 2 983 Net debt 3 461 6 121 5 510 4 367 4 000 3 395 2 491 3 443 4 679 4 371 3 049 Commitments [ edit ] The Kering Foundation was created in 2008 to combat violence against women (/wiki/Violence_against_women) . Kering was one of the first companies to endorse the Women's Empowerment Principles of the UN Women (/wiki/UN_Women) . [43] (#cite_note-43) Starting in 2019, the Kering Foundation developed actions to combat violence against children (/wiki/Violence_against_children) , making it a pillar of its operations in 2023. [44] (#cite_note-44) In 2015, Kering became an official partner of the Cannes Film Festival (/wiki/Cannes_Film_Festival) and launched the diversity program Women in Motion [45] (#cite_note-45) which was extended to the Rencontres d'Arles photography festival [46] (#cite_note-46) and the Tokyo Film Festival (/wiki/Tokyo_International_Film_Festival) in 2019. [47] (#cite_note-47) Kering launched the Regenerative Fund for Nature in 2021 to finance the transition to regenerative farming (/wiki/Regenerative_agriculture) practices [48] (#cite_note-48) and the Climate Fund for Nature in 2022 to finance nature conservation (/wiki/Nature_conservation) and restoration (/wiki/Ecological_restoration) initiatives. [49] (#cite_note-49) In May 2024, Kering partenered with the National University of Singapore (/wiki/National_University_of_Singapore) to create, via the entity's Center for Governance and Sustainability, a tool for measuring the environmental impact of companies in the Asia-Pacific region (/wiki/Asia_Pacific_region) . This collaboration seeks to establish a benchmark for measuring the impact of the green strategies of major Asia-Pacific companies. [50] (#cite_note-50) Social entrepreneurs sponsorship [ edit ] Each year, three social entrepreneurs are selected for the economic viability and the social added value of their projects in favor of women, their families and communities. Each selected project proposer is awarded 15 000 euros, and also receives personal and business sponsoring as well as guidance from a Kering staff member. Awards [ edit ] 2023: Biodiversity and Water Award at the CNMI Sustainable Fashion Awards for its regenerative practices. [51] (#cite_note-51) [52] (#cite_note-52) See also [ edit ] François Pinault (/wiki/Fran%C3%A7ois_Pinault) François-Henri Pinault (/wiki/Fran%C3%A7ois-Henri_Pinault) Groupe Artémis (/wiki/Groupe_Art%C3%A9mis) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b 2023 Annual results (https://www.globenewswire.com/news-release/2024/02/08/2825702/0/en/Kering-Press-release-2023-Annual-Results.html) , 9 February 2024 ^ Jump up to: a b c Guardian Staff (3 April 1999). "From timber merchant to corporate axeman" (https://www.theguardian.com/business/1999/apr/03/3) . The Guardian . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0261-3077 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0261-3077) . Retrieved 25 August 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "François Pinault et sa stratégie d'entreprise : toujours se démarquer" (https://mediaclip.ina.fr/fr/i22189013-francois-pinault-et-sa-strategie-d-entreprise-toujours-se-demarquer.html) . mediaclip (in French). 21 May 1988 . Retrieved 2 July 2024 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Gucci Group Agrees to Sell 40% Stake to French Retailer" (https://articles.latimes.com/1999/mar/20/business/fi-19096) . Los Angeles Times (/wiki/Los_Angeles_Times) . 20 March 1999 . Retrieved 24 July 2017 . ^ Jump up to: a b Sri Ramakrishnan (16 November 1999). "Gucci to Buy Parent Of Yves Saint Laurent" (https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/business/1999/11/16/gucci-to-buy-parent-of-yves-saint-laurent/1971b749-2e0c-448f-86b3-57dd492b6999/) . Washingtonpost.com . Retrieved 24 July 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Gucci fades on court ruling" (https://money.cnn.com/1999/05/27/europe/gucci/) . Cnn.com . 27 May 1999 . Retrieved 24 July 2017 . ^ Jump up to: a b "GUCCI BUYS AGAIN: DEAL FOR BOUCHERON BOOSTS JEWELRY UNIT" (https://wwd.com/feature/article-1195266-1712101/) . WWD . 24 May 2000 . Retrieved 1 May 2024 . ^ Jump up to: a b "GUCCI STRIKES AGAIN: BUYS MAJORITY SHARE OF BOTTEGA VENETA" (https://wwd.com/feature/article-1176448-1729417/) . WWD . 8 February 2001 . Retrieved 1 May 2024 . ^ Jump up to: a b Finch, Julia (7 July 2001). "Gucci liked the designer so much it bought Balenciaga" (https://www.theguardian.com/business/2001/jul/07/1) . The Guardian . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0261-3077 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0261-3077) . Retrieved 1 May 2024 . ^ Jump up to: a b Bellafante, Ginia (5 December 2000). "Gucci secures a deal with Alexander McQueen" (https://www.nytimes.com/2000/12/05/style/front-row-gucci-secures-deal-with-alexander-mcqueen-cookies-are-more-gratifying.html) . The New York Times . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0362-4331 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0362-4331) . Retrieved 1 May 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) McNeil, Peter; Riello, Giorgio (19 May 2016). Luxury: A Rich History . Oxford University Press. p. 256. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780191640278 . ^ Jump up to: a b Joshua Levine (15 February 2013). "The Man Behind the Curtain" (https://www.nytimes.com/2013/02/15/t-magazine/the-man-behind-the-curtain.html) . The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . Retrieved 24 July 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) Suzanne Kapner (23 March 2004). "PPR moves to buy last 30% of Gucci Group" (https://nypost.com/2004/03/23/ppr-moves-to-buy-last-30-of-gucci-group/) . Nypost.com . Retrieved 24 July 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) "PPR becomes majority shareholder of Sowind Group" (https://www.reuters.com/article/ppr-sowind/ppr-becomes-majority-shareholder-of-sowind-group-idUSWEB833620110704/) . Reuters . 5 July 2011 . Retrieved 2 July 2024 . ^ Jump up to: a b Christina Passariello (8 November 2011). "PPR Buys Menswear Brand Brioni" (https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB10001424052970204190704577026011411533018) . Wsj.com . Retrieved 24 December 2013 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Luisa Zargani, Miles Socha (24 April 2013). "Kering Acquires Pomellato" (http://wwd.com/accessories-news/jewelry/kering-acquires-pomellato-6906980/) . Wwd.com . Retrieved 24 July 2017 . ^ Jump up to: a b "PPR acquires majority stake in Chinese Qeelin" (https://www.fashionunited.com/executive/management/ppr-acquires-majority-stake-in-chinese-qeelin-20121112490803) . Fashiounited.com . 9 December 2012 . Retrieved 24 July 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) Ella Alexander (15 January 2013). "PPR Buys Majority Stake In Christopher Kane" (https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/christopher-kane-bought-by-ppr-majority-stake-acquisition) . Vogue.co.uk . Retrieved 24 July 2017 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Gucci offers to buy Richard Ginori porcelain maker for 13 million euros" (https://www.reuters.com/article/idUSL5N0CS2X7/) . Reuters . 5 April 2013 . Retrieved 1 May 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-20) Elizabeth Doerr (30 July 2014). "Kering (Previously PPR, Gucci Group) Acquires Ulysse Nardin" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/elizabethdoerr/2014/07/30/kering-previously-ppr-gucci-group-acquires-ulysse-nardin/) . Forbes.com . Retrieved 24 July 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-21) Sara Gay Forden, Jacqueline Simmons (20 June 2006). "As sales fall, PPR works to unload Printemps" (https://www.nytimes.com/2006/06/20/business/worldbusiness/20iht-ppr.html) . The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . Retrieved 24 July 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-22) "PPR Looks to Sell Conforama" (https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB10001424052748703766704576008672183381168) . The Wall Street Journal (/wiki/The_Wall_Street_Journal) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20220611063509/https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB10001424052748703766704576008672183381168) from the original on 11 June 2022. ^ (#cite_ref-23) "Toyota Tsusho to buy PPR stake in CFAO" (https://www.reuters.com/article/us-toyota-ppr/toyota-tsusho-to-buy-ppr-stake-in-cfao-idUSBRE86P09F20120726) . Reuters (/wiki/Reuters) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20220611063508/https://www.reuters.com/article/us-toyota-ppr/toyota-tsusho-to-buy-ppr-stake-in-cfao-idUSBRE86P09F20120726) from the original on 11 June 2022. ^ (#cite_ref-24) PPR says in talks to sell La Redoute by year-end (https://www.reuters.com/article/us-ppr-agm/ppr-says-in-talks-to-sell-la-redoute-by-year-end-idUSBRE95H0Q420130618) ^ (#cite_ref-25) "Puma acquires Cobra Golf and announces becoming Cobra-Puma Golf" (http://www.worldgolf.com/newswire/browse/62896-Puma-acquires-Cobra-Golf-and-announces-becoming-Cobra-Puma-Golf) . Worldgolf.com . 10 May 2010 . Retrieved 24 July 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-26) Chris V. Nicholson (2 May 2011). "PPR to Buy Volcom, a Sportswear Maker" (https://dealbook.nytimes.com/2011/05/02/ppr-to-buy-sportswear-company-volcom/?_r=0) . The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . Retrieved 24 July 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-27) Beth Wright (16 May 2018). "Kering officially spins off Puma" (https://web.archive.org/web/20191113121303/https://www.just-style.com/news/kering-officially-spins-off-puma_id133534.aspx) . Just-style.com . Archived from the original (https://www.just-style.com/news/kering-officially-spins-off-puma_id133534.aspx) on 13 November 2019 . Retrieved 19 June 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-28) Jolly, David (22 March 2013). "PPR to Show Breton Roots With Rebranding as Kering" (https://www.nytimes.com/2013/03/23/business/global/ppr-to-show-breton-roots-with-rebranding-as-kering.html) . The New York Times . Retrieved 22 November 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-29) Zargani, Luisa (22 February 2013). "Sales, Profits Up at Bottega Veneta in 2012" (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/sales-profits-up-at-bottega-veneta-6788889/) . WWD . Retrieved 2 July 2024 . ^ Jump up to: a b Mira, Nicola (9 July 2021). "Kering Eyewear buys 100% stake in Danish brand Lindberg" (https://ww.fashionnetwork.com/news/Kering-eyewear-buys-100-stake-in-danish-brand-lindberg,1318401.html) . FashionNetwork.com . Retrieved 30 September 2021 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Kering Eyewear acquires Hawaiian eyewear brand Maui Jim" (https://www.moodiedavittreport.com/kering-eyewear-acquires-hawaiian-eyewear-brand-maui-jim/) . The Moodie Davitt Report . 14 March 2022 . Retrieved 14 March 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-32) Jess Cartner-Morley (2 October 2016). "Demna Gvasalia reinvigorates Balenciaga with strategic disrespect" (https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2016/oct/02/demna-gvasalia-reinvigorates-balenciaga-with-strategic-disrespect) . Theguardian.com . Retrieved 24 July 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-33) Guyot, Olivier (17 February 2020). "Saint Laurent franchit la barre des 2 milliards d'euros" (https://fr.fashionnetwork.com/news/Saint-laurent-franchit-la-barre-des-2-milliards-d-euros,1185983.html) . FashionNetwork.com (in French) . Retrieved 2 July 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-34) Garnier, Juliette (22 September 2023). "After undergoing intense reinvention, Gucci searches hard for a second coming" (https://www.lemonde.fr/en/france/article/2023/09/22/after-undergoing-intense-reinvention-gucci-searches-hard-for-a-second-coming_6138507_7.html) . Le Monde.fr . Retrieved 2 July 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-35) Ben Stevens (29 March 2018). "Kering offloads entire stake in Stella McCartney" (https://www.retailgazette.co.uk/blog/2018/03/kering-offloads-entire-stake-stella-mccartney/) . Retailgazette.co.uk . Retrieved 19 June 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-36) Agnew, Harriet (21 June 2018). "Christopher Kane in talks to buy back brand from Kering" (https://www.ft.com/content/c45cc2ca-756f-11e8-aa31-31da4279a601) . www.ft.com . Retrieved 2 July 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-37) Sudip Kar-Gupta, Mimosa Spencer and Silke Koltrowitz, Luxury goods group Kering to sell watches division (https://www.reuters.com/world/europe/luxury-goods-group-kering-sell-girard-perregaux-ulysse-nardin-divisions-2022-01-24/) , Reuters.com , 24 January 2022 ^ (#cite_ref-38) Danziger, Pamela N. "Trouble In The House Of Gucci: Kering Struggles To Revive The Brand's Sparkle" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/pamdanziger/2023/10/29/trouble-in-the-house-of-gucci-kering-struggles-to-revive-the-brands-sparkle/) . Forbes . Retrieved 1 May 2024 . ^ Jump up to: a b Guilbault, Laure (3 February 2023). "Kering enters beauty with new entity led by former Estée Lauder exec" (https://www.voguebusiness.com/beauty/kering-enters-beauty-with-new-entity-led-by-former-estee-lauder-exec) . Vogue Business . Retrieved 1 May 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-40) Bossi, Andrea (26 June 2023). "Kering Makes First Major Beauty Acquisition" (https://fashionista.com/2023/06/kering-creed-beauty-acquisition) . Fashionista . Retrieved 22 November 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-41) "Kering acquisisce il 30% di Valentino per 1,7 miliardi di euro" (https://www.ilsole24ore.com/art/moda-kering-annuncia-acquisizione-30percento-valentino-17-miliardi-euro-AFCouQN) . ilsole24ore.com. ilsole24ore.com. 28 July 2023 . Retrieved 28 July 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-:9_42-0) Gilles, Florent (18 November 2013). "Former Safilo CEO Roberto Vedovotto joins Kering" (https://ww.fashionnetwork.com/news/Former-safilo-ceo-roberto-vedovotto-joins-kering,369341.html) . FashionNetwork.com . Retrieved 25 October 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-43) Wynne, Alex (3 March 2016). "Kering Partners With UN Women" (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/kering-partners-un-women-10377868/) . WWD . Retrieved 1 May 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-44) Diderich, Joelle (20 September 2023). "Kering Foundation Expands Remit to Combat Violence Against Children" (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/kering-foundation-expands-scope-to-combat-violence-against-children-1235822120/) . WWD . Retrieved 1 May 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-45) Keslassy, Elsa (30 March 2015). "Cannes Film Fest, Kering Launch Women in Motion" (https://variety.com/2015/film/festivals/cannes-film-fest-kering-launch-women-in-motion-1201462413/) . Variety . Retrieved 21 May 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-46) Diderich, Joelle (13 March 2019). "Kering Partners With Rencontres d'Arles Photography Festival" (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/kering-partners-with-rencontres-darles-photography-festival-women-in-motion-award-1203084114/) . WWD . Retrieved 2 July 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-47) Frater, Patrick (23 October 2019). "Kering and Tokyo Festival Bring 'Women in Motion' Talk Series to Japan" (https://variety.com/2019/film/news/kering-and-tokyo-festival-women-in-motion-talk-series-japan-1203380530/) . Variety . Retrieved 8 June 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-48) "Kering launches a new regenerative fund to support leather, cotton, wool and cashmere farmers" (https://www.wbcsd.org/alyn7) . World Business Council for Sustainable Development (WBCSD) . Retrieved 1 May 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-49) "Kering, L'Occitane Group Launch €300 Million Nature Fund" (https://www.businessoffashion.com/news/sustainability/kering-loccitane-group-launch-300-million-nature-fund/) . The Business of Fashion . 12 December 2022 . Retrieved 1 May 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-50) "Kering s'engage dans la transition écologique en Asie-Pacifique" (https://www.journalduluxe.fr/fr/business/kering-asie-pacifique-outil-mesure-impact-transition-ecologique-universite-singapour) . Journal du Luxe . Retrieved 15 May 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-51) "The CNMI Sustainable Fashion Awards 2023" (https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/cnmi-sustainable-fashion-awards/2023-award-winners) . Ellen MacArthur Foundation . Retrieved 23 April 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-52) "Milan's Sustainable Fashion Awards Take Centre Stage At La Scala" (https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/milan-sustainable-fashion-awards-2023) . Vogue . Retrieved 23 April 2024 . 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Italian clothing company founded in 1958 in Prato This article does not cite (/wiki/Wikipedia:Citing_sources) any sources (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this article (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Rifle_(clothing_company)) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability#Burden_of_evidence) . Find sources: "Rifle" clothing company (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Rifle%22+clothing+company) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Rifle%22+clothing+company+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Rifle%22+clothing+company&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Rifle%22+clothing+company+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Rifle%22+clothing+company) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Rifle%22+clothing+company&acc=on&wc=on) ( February 2019 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Rifle is an Italian clothing company founded in 1958 in Prato (/wiki/Prato) . Filled for bankruptcy in 2018 due to increased production costs. It was most famous for their jeans during the 1980s, especially in the USSR (/wiki/USSR) , Bulgaria (/wiki/Bulgaria) , Romania, Poland (/wiki/Poland) , and Czechoslovakia (/wiki/Czechoslovakia) . [ citation needed ] It was also very popular in Switzerland (/wiki/Switzerland) , the UK (/wiki/UK) , Israel (/wiki/Israel) , the Netherlands (/wiki/Netherlands) and Colombia (/wiki/Colombia) between 1975 and 1990. [ citation needed ] There are upscale lines of Rifle Jeans, called Super Rifle, Golden Rifle and Royal Rifle. External links [ edit ] Company portal (/wiki/Portal:Company) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Italy portal (/wiki/Portal:Italy) Official site (http://www.riflejeans.com/) This fashion (/wiki/Fashion) -related article is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . You can help Wikipedia by expanding it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Rifle_(clothing_company)&action=edit) . v t e NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐58c7647fd9‐wbnj6 Cached time: 20240713195316 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1] CPU time usage: 0.169 seconds Real time usage: 0.259 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 676/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 19687/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 1777/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 12/100 Expensive parser function count: 5/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 0/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 6801/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.119/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 2898712/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 236.195 1 -total 27.17% 64.177 1 Template:Short_description 25.69% 60.688 1 Template:Fashion-stub 25.40% 59.998 1 Template:Unreferenced 25.04% 59.148 1 Template:Asbox 23.53% 55.580 1 Template:Ambox 16.43% 38.805 2 Template:Pagetype 12.17% 28.737 1 Template:Portal 9.40% 22.210 2 Template:Citation_needed 7.89% 18.639 2 Template:Fix Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:2352670-0!canonical and timestamp 20240713195316 and revision id 1233936017. Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Rifle_(clothing_company)&oldid=1233936017 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Rifle_(clothing_company)&oldid=1233936017) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Clothing brands of Italy (/wiki/Category:Clothing_brands_of_Italy) Fashion accessory brands (/wiki/Category:Fashion_accessory_brands) Clothing companies established in 1958 (/wiki/Category:Clothing_companies_established_in_1958) Italian companies established in 1958 (/wiki/Category:Italian_companies_established_in_1958) Fashion stubs (/wiki/Category:Fashion_stubs) Hidden categories: Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description is different from Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_is_different_from_Wikidata) Articles lacking sources from February 2019 (/wiki/Category:Articles_lacking_sources_from_February_2019) All articles lacking sources (/wiki/Category:All_articles_lacking_sources) All articles with unsourced statements (/wiki/Category:All_articles_with_unsourced_statements) Articles with unsourced statements from February 2019 (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_unsourced_statements_from_February_2019) All stub articles (/wiki/Category:All_stub_articles)

This article has multiple issues. Please help improve it (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Detroit_Fashion_Week) or discuss these issues on the talk page (/wiki/Talk:Detroit_Fashion_Week) . ( Learn how and when to remove these template messages (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) The topic of this article may not meet Wikipedia's general notability guideline (/wiki/Wikipedia:Notability) . Please help to demonstrate the notability of the topic by citing reliable secondary sources (/wiki/Wikipedia:Reliable_sources) that are independent (/wiki/Wikipedia:Independent_sources) of the topic and provide significant coverage of it beyond a mere trivial mention. If notability cannot be shown, the article is likely to be merged (/wiki/Wikipedia:Merging) , redirected (/wiki/Wikipedia:Redirect) , or deleted (/wiki/Wikipedia:Deletion_policy) . Find sources: "Detroit Fashion Week" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Detroit+Fashion+Week%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Detroit+Fashion+Week%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Detroit+Fashion+Week%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Detroit+Fashion+Week%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Detroit+Fashion+Week%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Detroit+Fashion+Week%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( April 2024 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) This article needs to be updated . Please help update this article to reflect recent events or newly available information. ( April 2024 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Fashion industry convention Detroit Fashion Week is a week-long event that presents Michigan (/wiki/Michigan) clothing designers and showcases modeling talent in the Metro Detroit (/wiki/Metro_Detroit) region. Founded and produced by Brian Heath in 2005, the garment industry in Detroit observed fashion week from Monday, August 8, 2005 to Saturday, August 13, 2005, with fringe events that were open on Sunday, August 14, 2005, including a trunk show (/wiki/Trunk_show) . Almost all events occurred at the 4731 Gallery (/w/index.php?title=4731_Gallery&action=edit&redlink=1) , named for its street address at 4731 Grand River Avenue. The fourth floor of the 4731 building housed the runway events. Detroit Fashion Week 2007 was held at the Hotel St. Regis. The annual event has been held annually in and around the city of Detroit and has had designers from across the United States as well as models from major agencies and Americas Next Top Model participant Bianca Golden. Detroit Fashion Week since 2013 is produced by The Main Event20 and under new ownership. Detroit Fashion Week also sponsors two events, one summer and one winter event that involves a fashion show. This fashion show concludes the MAIN( MotorCity Automotive Industry Night) Event awards ceremony for automotive designers. The winter event takes place at Detroit Orchestra Hall and the summer event takes place on the campus of Lawrence Technological Institute. [1] (#cite_note-1) [2] (#cite_note-2) [3] (#cite_note-3) [4] (#cite_note-4) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Home" (http://www.detroitfashionweek.com/) . detroitfashionweek.com . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Detroit Fashion Week (@detroitfashweek) / Twitter" (https://twitter.com/detroitfashweek/) . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "Log into Facebook | Facebook" (https://www.facebook.com/detroitfashweek) . Facebook (/wiki/Facebook) . {{ cite web (/wiki/Template:Cite_web) }} : Cite uses generic title ( help (/wiki/Help:CS1_errors#generic_title) ) ^ (#cite_ref-4) "MAIN Event 20" (http://www.mainevent20.com/) . v t e Fashion weeks (/wiki/Fashion_week) By location "Big four" New York (/wiki/New_York_Fashion_Week) London (/wiki/London_Fashion_Week) Milan (/wiki/Milan_Fashion_Week) Paris (/wiki/Paris_Fashion_Week) Others Amsterdam (/wiki/Amsterdam_Fashion_Week) Australia (/wiki/Australian_Fashion_Week) Boston (/wiki/Boston_Fashion_Week) Brisbane (/wiki/Mercedes-Benz_Fashion_Festival_Brisbane) Berlin (/wiki/Berlin_Fashion_Week) Colombo (/wiki/Colombo_Fashion_Week) Copenhagen (/wiki/Copenhagen_Fashion_Week) Detroit India (/wiki/India_Fashion_Week) Jakarta (/wiki/Jakarta_Fashion_Week) Kuala Lumpur (/wiki/Kuala_Lumpur_Fashion_Week) Lagos (/wiki/Lagos_Fashion_Week) Lahore and Karachi (/wiki/PFDC_Sunsilk_Fashion_Week) Los Angeles (/wiki/Los_Angeles_Fashion_Week) Madrid (/wiki/Madrid_Fashion_Week) Malta (/w/index.php?title=Malta_Fashion_Week&action=edit&redlink=1) Mexico City (/wiki/Fashion_Week_Mexico_City) Miami (/wiki/Mercedes-Benz_Fashion_Week_Miami) New Zealand (/wiki/New_Zealand_Fashion_Week) Ottawa (/wiki/Ottawa_Fashion_Week) Port Harcourt, Nigeria (/wiki/Port_Harcourt_International_Fashion_Week) Rio de Janeiro (/wiki/Rio_Fashion_Week) São Paulo (/wiki/S%C3%A3o_Paulo_Fashion_Week) Sibiu, Romania (/wiki/Feeric_Fashion_Week) Singapore (/wiki/Singapore_Fashion_Week) Shanghai (/wiki/Shanghai_Fashion_Week) Shenzhen (/w/index.php?title=Shenzhen_Fashion_Week&action=edit&redlink=1) Tbilisi (/wiki/Tbilisi_Fashion_Week) Toronto (/wiki/Toronto_Fashion_Week) Vancouver (/wiki/Vancouver_Fashion_Week) Yangon, Myanmar (/wiki/Myanmar_International_Fashion_Week) See also List of fashion events (/wiki/List_of_fashion_events) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) v t e City of Detroit (/wiki/Detroit) Architecture (/wiki/Architecture_of_metropolitan_Detroit) Culture (/wiki/Culture_of_Detroit) Detroit River (/wiki/Detroit_River) Economy (/wiki/Economy_of_metropolitan_Detroit) Fire & rescue (/wiki/Detroit_Fire_Department) Freeways (/wiki/Roads_and_freeways_in_metropolitan_Detroit) Government (/wiki/Government_of_Detroit) History (/wiki/History_of_Detroit) timeline (/wiki/Timeline_of_Detroit) Historic places (/wiki/National_Register_of_Historic_Places_listings_in_Detroit) International Riverfront (/wiki/Detroit_International_Riverfront) Media (/wiki/Media_in_Detroit) Music (/wiki/Music_of_Detroit) Neighborhoods (/wiki/Neighborhoods_in_Detroit) Parks and beaches (/wiki/Template:Parks_in_metropolitan_Detroit) People (/wiki/List_of_people_from_Detroit) Police (/wiki/Detroit_Police_Department) and crime (/wiki/Crime_in_Detroit) Performing arts (/wiki/Performing_arts_in_Detroit) Skyscrapers (/wiki/List_of_tallest_buildings_in_Detroit) Sports (/wiki/Sports_in_Detroit) Tourism (/wiki/Tourism_in_metropolitan_Detroit) Transportation (/wiki/Transportation_in_metropolitan_Detroit) Water works (/wiki/Detroit_Water_and_Sewerage_Department) Metro Detroit (/wiki/Metro_Detroit) Michigan (/wiki/Michigan) United States (/wiki/United_States) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐api‐ext.eqiad.main‐85f5b4c5d4‐6qwb2 Cached time: 20240713025153 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1] CPU time usage: 0.348 seconds Real time usage: 0.472 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 885/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 59248/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 9472/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 19/100 Expensive parser function count: 4/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 36408/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.238/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 4751826/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 426.373 1 -total 41.27% 175.956 3 Template:Ambox 30.45% 129.837 1 Template:Multiple_issues 26.39% 112.515 1 Template:Reflist 23.58% 100.542 2 Template:Navbox 23.27% 99.238 1 Template:Fashion_weeks 23.05% 98.288 4 Template:Cite_web 17.12% 73.000 1 Template:Short_description 15.14% 64.571 1 Template:Notability 9.37% 39.956 5 Template:Main_other Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:2441518-0!canonical and timestamp 20240713025153 and revision id 1218305231. 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Indian actress (born 1973) Malaika Arora Arora in 2023 Born ( 1973-10-23 ) 23 October 1973 (age 50) Thane (/wiki/Thane) , Maharashtra (/wiki/Maharashtra) , India Other names Malaika Arora Khan Occupations Actress dancer model VJ (/wiki/VJ_(media_personality)) television presenter Years active 1997–present Spouse Arbaaz Khan (/wiki/Arbaaz_Khan) ​ ​ ( m. 1998; div. 2017) ​ Partner Arjun Kapoor (/wiki/Arjun_Kapoor) (2016–present) Children 1 Relatives Amrita Arora (/wiki/Amrita_Arora) (sister) Malaika Arora (born 23 October 1973 [1] (#cite_note-1) ) is an Indian actress, dancer, model, VJ (/wiki/VJ_(media_personality)) and television personality (/wiki/Television_presenter) who appears in Hindi (/wiki/Hindi) -language films. [2] (#cite_note-yahoo-2) She made her debut as a film producer in 2008 with her former husband Arbaaz Khan (/wiki/Arbaaz_Khan) , [3] (#cite_note-hindustantimes.com-3) founding the company Arbaaz Khan Productions (/wiki/Arbaaz_Khan_Productions) , which created the Dabangg film series (/wiki/Dabangg_(film_series)) . As an actress, she has starred in films like Kaante (/wiki/Kaante) (2002) and EMI (2008). She also performed in the songs Chaiyya Chaiyya (/wiki/Chaiyya_Chaiyya) (1998), Gur Naalo Ishq Mitha (1998), Maahi Ve (2002), Kaal Dhamaal (2005) and Munni Badnaam Hui (/wiki/Munni_Badnaam_Hui) (2010). Early life and background Malaika Arora was named after the Swahili (/wiki/Swahili_language) word malaika (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/malaika) meaning "angel". [4] (#cite_note-4) She was born in Thane (/wiki/Thane) , Maharashtra (/wiki/Maharashtra) . [5] (#cite_note-Thane-5) Her parents divorced when she was 11 years old, and she moved to Chembur (/wiki/Chembur) with her mother and sister Amrita (/wiki/Amrita_Arora) . Her mother, Joyce Polycarp, is a Malayali (/wiki/Malayali) Christian (/wiki/Christian) , and her father, Anil Arora, was a Punjabi (/wiki/Punjabi_people) Hindu (/wiki/Hindu) from the Indian border town of Fazilka (/wiki/Fazilka) who worked in the Indian Merchant Navy (/wiki/Indian_Merchant_Navy) . [6] (#cite_note-savvy-6) [7] (#cite_note-7) [8] (#cite_note-8) She completed her secondary education at Swami Vivekanand School in Chembur. She is also an alumnus of the Holy Cross High School Thane (/wiki/Holy_Cross_High_School_Thane) , where she studied until ninth grade. She pursued her college education at Jai Hind College (/wiki/Jai_Hind_College) , Churchgate (/wiki/Churchgate) , but did not complete it on account of professional engagements. She lived in Borla Society, Chembur opposite Basant Talkies before starting her modelling career. [9] (#cite_note-9) Career Malaika Arora (left) with her sister Amrita Arora (/wiki/Amrita_Arora) , 2012 Arora was selected as a VJ (/wiki/VJ_(media_personality)) for MTV India (/wiki/MTV_India) when its operations began. She worked as an interviewer, hosting shows such as Club MTV , [10] (#cite_note-Club-10) and later co-hosting the shows Love Line and Style Check with Cyrus Broacha (/wiki/Cyrus_Broacha) . [11] (#cite_note-bio-11) Malaika then entered the modelling world, appearing in many advertisements, as well as album songs like Bally Sagoo (/wiki/Bally_Sagoo) 's "Gur Naalo Ishq Mitha" opposite Jas Arora (/wiki/Jas_Arora) , and item numbers (/wiki/Item_number) such as " Chaiyya Chaiyya (/wiki/Chaiyya_Chaiyya) " in the 1998 Bollywood (/wiki/Bollywood) film Dil Se.. (/wiki/Dil_Se..) . [11] (#cite_note-bio-11) In 2010, she featured in the item song " Munni Badnaam Hui (/wiki/Munni_Badnaam_Hui) " in the film Dabangg (/wiki/Dabangg) , which was produced by her former husband Arbaaz Khan. [12] (#cite_note-12) On 12 March 2011, she helped set a world record with 1235 participants performing a choreographed dance to "Munni Badnaam" which she led. [13] (#cite_note-13) She was the Taiwan Excellence celebrity endorser in 2012. [14] (#cite_note-14) She endorsed Dabur's 30-Plus. [15] (#cite_note-15) She states that she never wanted to do acting. [16] (#cite_note-16) She performed live alongside Atif Aslam (/wiki/Atif_Aslam) , Shaan (/wiki/Shaan_(singer)) and Bipasha Basu (/wiki/Bipasha_Basu) in a series of concerts [17] (#cite_note-17) at LG Arena (/wiki/LG_Arena_(Birmingham)) in Birmingham (/wiki/Birmingham) [18] (#cite_note-18) and The O2 Arena (/wiki/The_O2_Arena) in London. In 2014, she confirmed that she would make a cameo appearance in the Farah Khan (/wiki/Farah_Khan) -directed action comedy (/wiki/Action_comedy_film) -drama film Happy New Year (/wiki/Happy_New_Year_(2014_film)) . [19] (#cite_note-19) Television Malaika appeared on the television show Nach Baliye (/wiki/Nach_Baliye) as one of the three judges. [2] (#cite_note-yahoo-2) The show was aired on STAR One (/wiki/STAR_One) in mid-2005. She continued as a judge in Nach Baliye 2 (/wiki/Nach_Baliye_2) , which began airing in late 2006. In this show, she performed many item numbers as an example for the contestants. She appeared on the show Zara Nachke Dikha (/wiki/Zara_Nachke_Dikha) as a judge on STAR One (/wiki/STAR_One) . [20] (#cite_note-20) She was a judge on the show Jhalak Dikhhla Jaa (/wiki/Jhalak_Dikhhla_Jaa) in 2010. [21] (#cite_note-21) Malaika is on the judges panel in the show India's Got Talent (/wiki/India%27s_Got_Talent) . [22] (#cite_note-22) She was the judge and host of the MTV Supermodel of the Year (/wiki/MTV_Supermodel_of_the_Year) in 2019, and a judge of India's Best Dancer (/wiki/India%27s_Best_Dancer) in 2020. [23] (#cite_note-23) [24] (#cite_note-IBD-24) Personal life Arora with her then-husband Arbaaz Khan (/wiki/Arbaaz_Khan) Arora was married to Bollywood actor-director-producer Arbaaz Khan (/wiki/Arbaaz_Khan) in 1998, after she met him during a coffee ad shoot. From her marriage with Khan until they got divorced, she was known as Malaika Arora Khan. [3] (#cite_note-hindustantimes.com-3) On 28 March 2016, they announced their separation, citing compatibility issues. [25] (#cite_note-25) [26] (#cite_note-26) The couple officially divorced on 11 May 2017. [27] (#cite_note-27) Together they have a son, Arhaan Khan, born on 9 November 2002. [28] (#cite_note-28) After the divorce Arora maintained primary custody of their son, while Khan received visitation rights, as per the settlement reached in the Bandra Family Court. [ citation needed ] Bollywood actor Salman Khan (/wiki/Salman_Khan) and actor-director-producer Sohail Khan (/wiki/Sohail_Khan) are her former brothers-in-law. Her former father-in-law was scriptwriter Salim Khan (/wiki/Salim_Khan) . [2] (#cite_note-yahoo-2) Arora has been in a relationship with actor Arjun Kapoor (/wiki/Arjun_Kapoor) since 2016. [29] (#cite_note-29) [30] (#cite_note-30) [31] (#cite_note-31) In April 2022, she had an accident on the Mumbai–Pune Expressway (/wiki/Mumbai%E2%80%93Pune_Expressway) when three cars collided with each other as she was returning home from an event. She was taken to the Apollo Hospital (/wiki/Apollo_Hospital) in Navi Mumbai (/wiki/Navi_Mumbai) where she received stitches. [32] (#cite_note-32) Arora became a vegan (/wiki/Veganism) in 2020. [33] (#cite_note-33) Filmography As actress and dancer 1997: Gur Nalon Ishq Mitha [34] (#cite_note-34) 1998: Dil Se (/wiki/Dil_Se..) - special appearance in song " Chaiyya Chaiyya (/wiki/Chaiyya_Chaiyya) " [35] (#cite_note-35) 1999: Pyar Ke Geet - special appearance in song "Dholna" [36] (#cite_note-36) 2000: Bichhoo (/wiki/Bichhoo) - special appearance in song "Ekwari Tak Le" 2001: Indian (/wiki/Indian_(2001_film)) - special appearance in song "Yeh Pyar" 2002: Maa Tujhhe Salaam (/wiki/Maa_Tujhhe_Salaam_(film)) - special appearance in song "Sone Ke Jaisi Hai Meri Jawaani" 2002: Kaante (/wiki/Kaante) as Lisa 2005: Kaal (/wiki/Kaal_(2005_film)) - special appearance in song "Kaal Dhamaal" 2007: Heyy Babyy (/wiki/Hey_Baby_(film)) - special appearance in song "Heyy Babyy" 2007: Athidhi (/wiki/Athidhi_(2007_film)) - special appearance in song "Rathraina" ( Telugu film (/wiki/Telugu_film) ) 2007: Om Shanti Om (/wiki/Om_Shanti_Om) - special appearance in song "Deewangi Deewangi" 2007: Welcome (/wiki/Welcome_(2007_film)) - special appearance in song "Hoth Rasiley" 2008: EMI (/wiki/EMI_(film)) as Nancy [37] (#cite_note-37) 2009: Helloo India 2010: Prem Kaa Game (/wiki/Prem_Kaa_Game) - special appearance in song "I Wanna Fall in Love" 2010: Housefull (/wiki/Housefull_(2010_film)) as Pooja 2010: Dabangg (/wiki/Dabangg) - special appearance in song " Munni Badnaam Hui (/wiki/Munni_Badnaam_Hui) " 2012: Gabbar Singh (/wiki/Gabbar_Singh_(2012_film)) - special appearance in song "Kevvu Keka" (Telugu film) 2012: Housefull 2 (/wiki/Housefull_2) - special appearance in song "Anarkali Disco Chali" 2012: Dabangg 2 (/wiki/Dabangg_2) - special appearance in song "Pandey Ji Seeti" 2014: Happy New Year - cameo appearance as herself [38] (#cite_note-38) 2015: Dolly Ki Doli (/wiki/Dolly_Ki_Doli) - special appearance in song "Fashion Khatam Mujh Par" [39] (#cite_note-39) 2018: Pataakha (/wiki/Pataakha) - special appearance in song "Hello Hello" [40] (#cite_note-40) 2022: An Action Hero (/wiki/An_Action_Hero) - special appearance in song "Aap Jaisa Koi" [41] (#cite_note-41) 2023: Kho Gaye Hum Kahan (/wiki/Kho_Gaye_Hum_Kahan) - herself (cameo) As producer 2010: Dabangg (/wiki/Dabangg) – Filmfare Award for Best Film (/wiki/Filmfare_Award_for_Best_Film) , [42] (#cite_note-:0-42) National Film Award for Best Popular Film Providing Wholesome Entertainment (/wiki/National_Film_Award_for_Best_Popular_Film_Providing_Wholesome_Entertainment) [43] (#cite_note-:1-43) 2012: Dabangg 2 (/wiki/Dabangg_2) 2015: Dolly Ki Doli (/wiki/Dolly_Ki_Doli) Television Year Name Role Notes 1997 Club MTV Host [10] (#cite_note-Club-10) 1999 MTV Loveline Host [44] (#cite_note-44) 2002 MTV Style Check Host [45] (#cite_note-45) 2004 Style Mantra Host [46] (#cite_note-46) 2005–2006 Nach Baliye (/wiki/Nach_Baliye) Judge season 1–2 2008 Zara Nachke Dikha (/wiki/Zara_Nachke_Dikha) 2008 Dhoom Macha De Host [47] (#cite_note-47) 2008 Nachle Ve with Saroj Khan (/wiki/Nachle_Ve_with_Saroj_Khan) Herself 2009 Perfect Bride (/wiki/Perfect_Bride) Judge 2010;2015;2023–present Jhalak Dikhhla Jaa (/wiki/Jhalak_Dikhhla_Jaa) seasons 4, 8, 11 2012–2018;2022 India's Got Talent (/wiki/India%27s_Got_Talent) Judge season 4–8, guest judge in season 9 [48] (#cite_note-48) 2015 Swaragini (/wiki/Swaragini) Herself 2015–2016 Power Couple (/wiki/Power_Couple_(Indian_TV_series)) Host/presenter 2017–2018 India's Next Top Model (/wiki/India%27s_Next_Top_Model) Judge season 3–4 2019–2021 MTV Supermodel of the Year (/wiki/MTV_Supermodel_of_the_Year) Judge 2020–2022 India's Best Dancer (/wiki/India%27s_Best_Dancer) Judge [24] (#cite_note-IBD-24) 2020–2022 Fabulous Lives of Bollywood Wives (/wiki/Fabulous_Lives_of_Bollywood_Wives) Herself Guest [49] (#cite_note-49) 2022 Moving in With Malaika Herself [50] (#cite_note-50) References ^ (#cite_ref-1) "On Malaika Arora's birthday, a look at her most iconic fashion moments" (https://indianexpress.com/article/lifestyle/fashion/happy-birthday-malaika-arora-fashion-moments-photos-6082253/) . The Indian Express . 23 October 2019. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20191028163118/https://indianexpress.com/article/lifestyle/fashion/happy-birthday-malaika-arora-fashion-moments-photos-6082253/) from the original on 28 October 2019 . Retrieved 22 June 2023 . ^ Jump up to: a b c "Malaika Arora – Biography" (https://web.archive.org/web/20100106103037/http://in.movies.yahoo.com/artists/Malaika-Arora/biography-7904.html) . Yahoo! Movies (/wiki/Yahoo!_Movies) . Archived from the original (http://in.movies.yahoo.com/artists/Malaika-Arora/biography-7904.html) on 6 January 2010 . Retrieved 6 May 2010 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Malaika Arora Khan, Arbaaz Khan confirm split. Read their statement" (https://www.hindustantimes.com/bollywood/malaika-arora-khan-arbaaz-khan-confirm-separation-read-their-statement/story-juNCJdjvd6odcZgBn95wYL.html) . Hindustan Times . 28 March 2016. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20181031160013/https://www.hindustantimes.com/bollywood/malaika-arora-khan-arbaaz-khan-confirm-separation-read-their-statement/story-juNCJdjvd6odcZgBn95wYL.html) from the original on 31 October 2018 . Retrieved 15 March 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Sharma, Amul (7 April 2009). "Malaika's an ink queen" (https://www.mid-day.com/articles/malaikas-an-ink-queen/40171) . Mid-Day . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20190110184439/https://www.mid-day.com/articles/malaikas-an-ink-queen/40171) from the original on 10 January 2019 . Retrieved 10 January 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-Thane_5-0) "On Malaika Arora's birthday, a look at her most iconic fashion moments" (https://indianexpress.com/article/lifestyle/fashion/happy-birthday-malaika-arora-fashion-moments-photos-6082253/) . 23 October 2019. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20191028163118/https://indianexpress.com/article/lifestyle/fashion/happy-birthday-malaika-arora-fashion-moments-photos-6082253/) from the original on 28 October 2019 . Retrieved 24 May 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-savvy_6-0) Chakraborty, Sumita. "Malaika Arora Khan – "I won't unnecessarily fool around with Salman, and nor are we on backslapping terms!" (https://web.archive.org/web/20140726020239/http://www.magnamags.com/savvy/Malaika-Arora-Khan-I-won%E2%80%99t-unnecessarily-fool-around-with-Salman%20-and-nor-are-we-on-backslapping-terms/4742) " (https://web.archive.org/web/20140726020239/http://www.magnamags.com/savvy/Malaika-Arora-Khan-I-won%E2%80%99t-unnecessarily-fool-around-with-Salman%20-and-nor-are-we-on-backslapping-terms/4742) . Magna Magazines . Archived from the original (http://www.magnamags.com/savvy/Malaika-Arora-Khan-I-won%E2%80%99t-unnecessarily-fool-around-with-Salman%20-and-nor-are-we-on-backslapping-terms/4742) on 26 July 2014 . Retrieved 8 December 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Arya, Reshma. "I have special memories of Thane" (http://www.dnaindia.com/entertainment/report-i-have-special-memories-of-thane-1013318) . Daily News and Analysis . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20141213215746/http://www.dnaindia.com/entertainment/report-i-have-special-memories-of-thane-1013318) from the original on 13 December 2014 . Retrieved 8 December 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) Gupta, Priya (6 January 2015). "Malaika Arora Khan: Arbaaz is a complete reflection of his dad" (http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/entertainment/hindi/bollywood/news/Malaika-Arora-Khan-Arbaaz-is-a-complete-reflection-of-his-dad/articleshow/45760900.cms) . The Times of India (/wiki/The_Times_of_India) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20170202221843/http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/entertainment/hindi/bollywood/news/Malaika-Arora-Khan-Arbaaz-is-a-complete-reflection-of-his-dad/articleshow/45760900.cms) from the original on 2 February 2017 . Retrieved 15 March 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Chembur will always be our home" (https://web.archive.org/web/20110703135015/http://www.mid-day.com/metro/2006/jun/139591.htm) . Mid-Day . 16 June 2006. Archived from the original (http://www.mid-day.com/metro/2006/jun/139591.htm) on 3 July 2011 . Retrieved 21 February 2011 . ^ Jump up to: a b "New VJs on the Block" (https://web.archive.org/web/20060326075110/http://www.screenindia.com/jun06/music.htm) . Screen (/wiki/Screen_(magazine)) . Archived from the original (http://www.screenindia.com/jun06/music.htm) on 26 March 2006 . Retrieved 14 November 2018 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Malaika Arora – Biography" (https://web.archive.org/web/20100406005618/http://www.netglimse.com/celebs/pages/malaika_arora/index.shtml) . Netglimse.com. Archived from the original (http://www.netglimse.com/celebs/pages/malaika_arora/index.shtml) on 6 April 2010 . Retrieved 6 May 2010 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Munnif Badnaam Hui., a big hit!" 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" (https://www.outlookindia.com/art-entertainment/-moving-in-with-malaika-malaika-arora-talks-about-her-separation-with-arbaaz-khan-reveals-she-proposed-to-him-news-242890) 'Moving In With Malaika': Malaika Arora Talks About Her Separation With Arbaaz Khan, Reveals She Proposed To Him" (https://www.outlookindia.com/art-entertainment/-moving-in-with-malaika-malaika-arora-talks-about-her-separation-with-arbaaz-khan-reveals-she-proposed-to-him-news-242890) . Outlook . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20230319105814/https://www.outlookindia.com/art-entertainment/-moving-in-with-malaika-malaika-arora-talks-about-her-separation-with-arbaaz-khan-reveals-she-proposed-to-him-news-242890) from the original on 19 March 2023 . Retrieved 28 May 2023 . External links Malaika Arora (https://www.instagram.com/malaikaaroraofficial/) on Instagram (/wiki/Instagram_(identifier)) Malaika Arora (https://www.bollywoodhungama.com/celebrity/malaika-arora-khan/filmography/) at Bollywood Hungama (/wiki/Bollywood_Hungama) Malaika Arora (https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0037019/) at IMDb (/wiki/IMDb_(identifier)) Portals (/wiki/Wikipedia:Contents/Portals) : Biography (/wiki/Portal:Biography) Bollywood (/wiki/Portal:Bollywood) Films (/wiki/Portal:Films) Fashion (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Music (/wiki/Portal:Music) Television (/wiki/Portal:Television) Malaika Arora at Wikipedia's sister projects : Media (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Malaika_Arora) from Commons Data (https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q290322) from Wikidata Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) International VIAF (https://viaf.org/viaf/244342161) WorldCat (https://id.oclc.org/worldcat/entity/E39PBJcwCY7bFvkYtmyy76xCcP) National United States (https://id.loc.gov/authorities/no2012057017) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6f54559974‐r7wkv Cached time: 20240719204936 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.829 seconds Real time usage: 1.058 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 5021/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 129539/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 5960/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 19/100 Expensive parser function count: 18/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 208846/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.538/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 9397640/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 965.377 1 -total 35.25% 340.307 1 Template:Reflist 26.06% 251.608 1 Template:Infobox_person 19.97% 192.806 26 Template:Cite_news 13.81% 133.293 20 Template:Pluralize_from_text 10.37% 100.125 1 Template:Subject_bar 9.14% 88.194 22 Template:Cite_web 7.34% 70.858 1 Template:Short_description 6.52% 62.928 1 Template:Marriage 5.45% 52.658 1 Template:Authority_control Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:2452594-0!canonical and timestamp 20240719204936 and revision id 1227810301. 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Style of casual clothing Streetwear is a style of casual clothing which became global in the 1990s. [1] (#cite_note-1) It grew from New York hip hop fashion (/wiki/Hip_hop_fashion) and Californian surf culture (/wiki/Surf_culture) to encompass elements of sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) , punk (/wiki/Punk_fashion) , skateboarding (/wiki/Skateboarding#Culture) , 1980s nostalgia, and Japanese street fashion (/wiki/Japanese_street_fashion) . Later, haute couture (/wiki/Haute_couture) became an influence, and was in turn influenced by streetwear. [2] (#cite_note-2) Streetwear centers on comfortable clothing and accessories such as jeans (/wiki/Jeans) , T-shirts (/wiki/T-shirt) , baseball caps (/wiki/Baseball_cap) , and sneakers (/wiki/Sneakers) . Brands may create exclusivity through artificial scarcity (/wiki/Artificial_scarcity) ; enthusiasts follow particular brands and try to obtain limited edition releases, including via proxy purchases (/w/index.php?title=Proxy_purchases&action=edit&redlink=1) . [3] (#cite_note-3) [4] (#cite_note-4) History [ edit ] Streetwear style is generally accepted to have been born out of the New York City hip-hop culture of the late 1970s and early 1980s (/wiki/1980s_in_fashion#Rap_and_hip_hop) , with elements of Los Angeles surf culture. [5] (#cite_note-5) Early streetwear in the 1970s and 1980s also took inspiration from the do-it-yourself aesthetic (/wiki/DIY_ethic) of punk (/wiki/Punk_fashion) , Japanese street fashion, new wave (/wiki/New_wave_music) , heavy metal (/wiki/Heavy_metal_fashion) , and established legacy sportswear and workwear (/wiki/Workwear) fashion brands such as Schott NYC (/wiki/Schott_NYC) , Dr. Martens (/wiki/Dr._Martens) , Kangol (/wiki/Kangol) , Fila (/wiki/Fila_(company)) and Adidas (/wiki/Adidas) . A Stüssy store in Kuala Lumpur (/wiki/Kuala_Lumpur) In the late 1980s, surfboard designer Shawn Stussy (/wiki/Shawn_Stussy) began selling printed T-shirts featuring the same trademark signature he placed on his custom surfboards. Initially selling the items from his own car, Stussy expanded sales to boutiques once popularity increased. [6] (#cite_note-San_Francisco_Chronicle_2005-11-06-6) [7] (#cite_note-Time_1991-02-11-7) [8] (#cite_note-SoJones_2009-08-05-8) Then as sales peaked, Stüssy (/wiki/St%C3%BCssy) moved into exclusive sales to create product scarcity, which established streetwear's focus on T-shirts and exclusivity. [9] (#cite_note-Bobby_Hundreds-9) Timberland boots are an everyday shoe in streetwear. In the early 1990s, burgeoning record labels associated with popular hip-hop acts like Tommy Boy Records (/wiki/Tommy_Boy_Records) , Def Jam Recordings (/wiki/Def_Jam_Recordings) , and Delicious Vinyl (/wiki/Delicious_Vinyl) began selling branded merchandise embroidered onto letterman (/wiki/Letterman_(sports)) and workwear jackets made by companies like Carhartt (/wiki/Carhartt) . [10] (#cite_note-10) By mid-decade, influences included skateboarding and gangsta rap (/wiki/Gangsta_rap) . Professional American sports franchises have had a significant impact on the scene, especially the New York Yankees (/wiki/New_York_Yankees) , Los Angeles Raiders (/wiki/Los_Angeles_Raiders) and Chicago Bulls (/wiki/Chicago_Bulls) caps and jackets, with their production of oversized team jerseys, as well as boots from The Timberland Company (/wiki/The_Timberland_Company) and the latest shoe design releases from Nike, Inc. (/wiki/Nike,_Inc.) Brand launches by the chief executives of record companies followed, with Russell Simmons (/wiki/Russell_Simmons) of Def Jam launching his Phat Farm (/wiki/Phat_Farm) label, Sean Combs (/wiki/Sean_Combs) of Bad Boy with Sean John (/wiki/Sean_John) , and Jay-Z (/wiki/Jay-Z) and Damon Dash (/wiki/Damon_Dash) of Roc-a-Fella Records (/wiki/Roc-a-Fella_Records) launching Rocawear (/wiki/Rocawear) . Luxury sportswear [ edit ] Jil Sander (/wiki/Jil_Sander_(brand)) was the earliest luxury fashion brand to collaborate with a sportswear firm, Adidas, on a co-creation project in 1998. [11] (#cite_note-11) Since then, the advent of " bling (/wiki/Bling) " culture saw established luxury brands make inroads into the market, with Burberry (/wiki/Burberry) , Gucci (/wiki/Gucci) and Fendi (/wiki/Fendi) making appearances in films and hip hop videos. Singer Pharrell Williams (/wiki/Pharrell_Williams) partnered with fashion designer and A Bathing Ape (/wiki/A_Bathing_Ape) creator, Nigo (/wiki/Nigo) , to create Billionaire Boys Club (/wiki/Billionaire_Boys_Club_(clothing_retailer)) , [12] (#cite_note-12) credited with mixing Japanese street fashion and streetwear and increasing their visibility in high fashion. [13] (#cite_note-Oral_History-13) Fashion clothing manufacturers began to follow the streetwear companies, co-opting the idea of very limited edition capsule collections, known as "drops", using social media and product scarcity as marketing tools. [14] (#cite_note-14) [15] (#cite_note-15) In the 2010s, some streetwear brands were coveted as much as the most historically elite fashion brands. Complex Magazine (/wiki/Complex_Magazine) named Stüssy, Supreme (/wiki/Supreme_(brand)) , and A Bathing Ape as the top streetwear brands, [9] (#cite_note-Bobby_Hundreds-9) and many went on to collaborate on prized high fashion capsule collections such as Supreme x Louis Vuitton (/wiki/Louis_Vuitton) , Fila x Fendi, A Bathing Ape x Comme des Garcons (/wiki/Comme_des_Garcons) , and Stüssy x Dior (/wiki/Dior) . [16] (#cite_note-16) Alexander Wang (/wiki/Alexander_Wang_(designer)) developed "luxury sportswear" in his eponymous brand. Contemporary streetwear has an increasing influence on haute couture, and has itself been influenced by runway shows. Designers such as Virgil Abloh (/wiki/Virgil_Abloh) and Raf Simons (/wiki/Raf_Simons) have had a large impact on the evolution of streetwear through their influence on hip hop and popular culture. [17] (#cite_note-17) [18] (#cite_note-18) Other designers such as Demna Gvasalia (/wiki/Demna_Gvasalia) , creative director of Vetements (/wiki/Vetements) and Balenciaga (/wiki/Balenciaga) , championed trends such as the chunky sneaker [19] (#cite_note-19) and oversized hoodie. [20] (#cite_note-20) Streetwear is an inclusive style in fashion as it is gender neutral and often designed by people of many different ethnicities and backgrounds. [21] (#cite_note-21) Hypebeast culture [ edit ] "Hypebeast" (occasionally "hype beast") culture is a colloquial term that at first was considered a derogatory term (/wiki/Derogatory_term) until the Hong Kong journalist and businessman Kevin Ma (/wiki/Kevin_Ma) [22] (#cite_note-22) reappropriated (/wiki/Reappropriated) it as the name of his fashion blog, Hypebeast (/wiki/Hypebeast_(website)) . [23] (#cite_note-23) Even after Ma's fashion blog expanded to a world-famous website, hypebeast still had some negative connotation in the US: namely a lack of authenticity and an interest only in following existing trends. [24] (#cite_note-24) In the UK, hypebeast is a pejorative (/wiki/Pejorative) for a hipster (/wiki/Hipster_subculture) who appropriates designer streetwear and buys only the latest releases, in an ironic imitation of mainstream celebrities like Kanye West (/wiki/Kanye_West) . [25] (#cite_note-25) Even though many people will refer to themselves as hypebeasts, taking it as a term of endearment (much like the evolution of the term otaku (/wiki/Otaku) in Japanese popular culture) others still respond to the negative connotation. [26] (#cite_note-:0-26) With a growing trend of prominent brand names and logos on clothing, there has been a development of "hypebeast culture" connected to streetwear as of the mid-2000s. Hypebeasts are defined as buying clothes and accessories to impress others. [27] (#cite_note-27) This trend is inspired by a 1990s fashion for clothing covered in brand names and logos. [28] (#cite_note-28) Hypebeasts usually wear a variety of name brands at once to boast their affluence and display popular trends. Another component of "hypebeast culture" is the link to resellers. Resellers will purchase an upcoming trending sneaker to resell it at a higher asking price later. The resale market and hypebeasts can profit from brands by purchasing them for the trend rather than their cultural significance. [29] (#cite_note-29) Sneaker collecting [ edit ] Main article: Sneaker collecting (/wiki/Sneaker_collecting) Sneakers (/wiki/Sneakers) have been a part of streetwear since the late 1970s. [30] (#cite_note-30) By the late 1980s, sneaker collecting had become a major part of the streetwear subculture, due in large part to Air Jordans (/wiki/Air_Jordan) , the signature shoes of basketballer Michael Jordan (/wiki/Michael_Jordan) . [31] (#cite_note-31) Another sneaker of streetwear has been the Nike Air Force 1 (/wiki/Air_Force_1_(shoe)) , popularized in the hip hop, trap (/wiki/Trap_music) , and grime (/wiki/Grime_(music_genre)) scenes. [32] (#cite_note-Air_Force_1-32) Although styles of shoes have changed, the link between sneaker culture and streetwear remains strong. The sneaker market is approximately valued at $85 billion USD in 2022 and is predicted to reach $120 billion by 2026. [33] (#cite_note-33) [34] (#cite_note-34) See also [ edit ] Look up streetwear (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/streetwear) in Wiktionary, the free dictionary. Athleisure (/wiki/Athleisure) Ready-to-wear (/wiki/Ready-to-wear) Street style (/wiki/Street_style) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Laux, Cameron (9 January 2019). "Who decides what is cool?" (https://www.bbc.com/culture/story/20190109-who-decides-what-is-cool) . BBC designed . British Broadcasting Corporation . Retrieved 10 January 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Yotka, Steff (12 January 2019). "Think Streetwear Is a New Phenomenon? Meet Luca Benini, Who Started the Hype 30 Years Ago" (https://www.vogue.com/article/slam-jam-luca-benini-interview-pitti-uomo) . Vogue . Retrieved 12 January 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Baggs, Michael (10 December 2018). "Rental fashion: How luxury streetwear is changing the industry" (https://www.bbc.com/news/newsbeat-46474431) . BBC Newsbeat . British Broadcasting Corporation . Retrieved 10 January 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "What is Street Wear?" (http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-streetwear-clothing.htm) . Wisegeek . ...it is usually centered upon casual, comfortable pieces such as jeans, t-shirts, baseball caps, and sneakers. It is also influenced by hip-hop and skateboarding styles as well as 1980s nostalgia, and often features bold colors, graphic prints, and retro designs and logos. ^ (#cite_ref-5) "How Hip-Hop Left a Lasting Influence on Streetwear & Fashion" (https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/hip-hop-streetwear-fashion-influence/) . Highsnobiety . 2 October 2018 . Retrieved 9 July 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-San_Francisco_Chronicle_2005-11-06_6-0) Sande, Steve (6 November 2005). "Street Threads" (http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2005/11/06/LVG8AFH0RR1.DTL) . San Francisco Chronicle (/wiki/San_Francisco_Chronicle) . Retrieved 12 August 2009 . ^ (#cite_ref-Time_1991-02-11_7-0) "Style: Where Surf Meets Rap" (https://web.archive.org/web/20100216125229/http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,972287,00.html) . Time . 11 February 1991. Archived from the original (http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,972287,00.html) on 16 February 2010 . Retrieved 10 September 2009 . ^ (#cite_ref-SoJones_2009-08-05_8-0) Breinholt, Jacob (5 August 2009). "Throwback Comeback: Stussy" (https://web.archive.org/web/20130313043100/http://www.sojones.com/news/1407-throwback-comeback-stussy/) . SoJones . Archived from the original (http://www.sojones.com/news/1407-throwback-comeback-stussy/) on 13 March 2013 . Retrieved 12 August 2009 . ^ Jump up to: a b Hundreds, Bobby (21 June 2011). "50 Greatest Streetwear Brands of All Time" (http://www.complex.com/style/the-greatest-streetwear-brands/) . Complex Magazine (/wiki/Complex_Magazine) . ^ (#cite_ref-10) The Carhartt Jacket (https://www.nytimes.com/1992/11/29/style/thing-the-carhartt-jacket.html) by Michel Marriott, 29 November 1992. ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Collaboration between luxury and sportswear: what are the roots?" (https://www.heuritech.com/articles/industry-analysis/luxury-teams-up-with-sports/) . Heuritech . 5 January 2021 . Retrieved 22 January 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) Cook, Xerxes (27 November 2015). "English Inspiration | The Brain Behind Japan's Biggest Streetwear Brand" (https://amuse.vice.com/en_us/article/zm5x9e/japans-biggest-streetwear-brand) . Amuse . Vice Media (/wiki/Vice_Media) . Retrieved 7 August 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-Oral_History_13-0) Blagrove, Kadia; La Puma, Joe; Deleon, Jian (3 December 2013). "The Oral History of Billionaire Boys Club and Icecream" (https://www.complex.com/style/2013/12/oral-history-bbc-icecream) . Complex (/wiki/Complex_Networks) . Retrieved 28 October 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) Fowler, Damian (5 February 2018). "The hype machine: Streetwear and the business of scarcity" (https://www.bbc.com/capital/story/20180205-the-hype-machine-streetwear-and-the-business-of-scarcity) . BBC Capital . British Broadcasting Corporation . Retrieved 10 January 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) Berlinger, Max (26 February 2019). "Why streetwear brands are now billion-dollar concerns" (https://www.voguebusiness.com/companies/next-big-streetwear-brands-supreme-palace-off-white) . Vogue Business (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) . Retrieved 17 February 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) Sawyer, Jonathan (4 December 2019). "Kim Jones Takes Shawn Stussy's Artwork to "Couture Levels of Technique" in Dior's Fall 2020 Collection" (https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/dior-stussy-fall-2020/) . Highsnobiety (/wiki/Highsnobiety) . Retrieved 29 October 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) Coretti, Valerio (1 June 2017). "Why is streetwear obsessed with Raf Simons?" (https://www.nssmag.com/en/fashion/11481/raf-simons) . nss magazine . ^ (#cite_ref-18) Schneier, Matthew (31 August 2022). "What's Next for Off-White After Virgil?" (https://www.thecut.com/article/virgil-abloh-louis-vuitton-future-of-off-white.html) . The Cut . Retrieved 4 September 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) Caramanica, Jon (25 July 2018). "My 8-Month Search for $900 Sneakers" (https://www.nytimes.com/2018/07/25/style/sneakers-balenciaga-triple-s.html) . The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . ^ (#cite_ref-20) Fumo, Nicola (2 March 2016). "What Is Vetements and Why Is Everyone Freaking Out?" (https://www.racked.com/2016/3/2/11139622/what-is-vetements) . Racked (/wiki/Racked) . ^ (#cite_ref-21) "What is Streetwear? The 411 on Fashion's Biggest Buzzword" (https://wearzeitgeist.com/streetwear/what-is-streetwear-fashion) . ^ (#cite_ref-22) Bishop, Jordan (28 June 2016). "HYPEBEAST Founder Kevin Ma On Innovation, Learning, And Hong Kong" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/bishopjordan/2016/06/28/hypebeast-founder-kevin-ma-on-innovation-learning-and-hong-kong/) . Forbes (/wiki/Forbes) . Retrieved 29 October 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-23) Bain, Marc (22 May 2019). "Streetwear is what happens to fashion when consumers start dictating the terms" (https://qz.com/quartzy/1623507/streetwears-impact-on-fashion-goes-beyond-hoodies-and-t-shirts/) . Quartzy . Retrieved 20 November 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-24) Weissburg, Josie. "Hypebeast Culture" (https://registerforum.org/3437/news/hypebeast-culture/) . The Register Forum . Retrieved 20 November 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-25) Bassil, Ryan (25 October 2019). "What Happened to the Hipster?" (https://www.vice.com/en/article/evjq77/hypebeast-new-hipster-mens-fashion-lifestyle) . Vice (/wiki/Vice_(magazine)) . Retrieved 29 October 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-:0_26-0) "The Evolution of the Hypebeast: An Illustrated Guide" (https://www.complex.com/style/2013/08/evolution-of-the-hypebeast/) . Complex . Retrieved 20 November 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-27) "All Your Questios About Hypebeasts, Answered" (https://www.bustle.com/articles/97047-what-is-a-hypebeast-5-important-aspects-of-the-hypebeast-lifestyle) . Bustle . Retrieved 7 September 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-28) Groce, Nia (15 March 2018). "Will the '90s Logo Trend Last? Here's What the Experts Have to Say" (https://footwearnews.com/2018/fashion/trends/logo-mania-trend-90s-fendi-fila-asics-518423/) . Footwear News . Retrieved 7 September 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-29) Le, Nicholas (11 October 2018). "Streetwear resale culture on rise, becomes source of profit for students" (https://thecampanile.org/2018/10/11/streetwear-resale-culture-on-rise-becomes-source-of-profit-for-students/) . The Campanile . Retrieved 8 August 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-30) Matthews, Delisia; Cryer-Coupet, Qiana; Degirmencioglu, Nimet (5 January 2021). "I wear, therefore I am: investigating sneakerhead culture, social identity, and brand preference among men" (https://doi.org/10.1186%2Fs40691-020-00228-3) . Fashion and Textiles . 8 (1). doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1186/s40691-020-00228-3 (https://doi.org/10.1186%2Fs40691-020-00228-3) . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 2198-0802 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/2198-0802) . ^ (#cite_ref-31) Denny, Iain (17 March 2020). "The sneaker – marketplace icon" (https://doi.org/10.1080%2F10253866.2020.1741357) . Consumption Markets & Culture . 24 (5): 456–467. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1080/10253866.2020.1741357 (https://doi.org/10.1080%2F10253866.2020.1741357) . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 1025-3866 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/1025-3866) . ^ (#cite_ref-Air_Force_1_32-0) Warnett, Gary (25 January 2017). "The Forgotten History of the White on White Air Force 1, Nike's Perfect Sneaker" (https://www.complex.com/sneakers/2017/01/nike-air-force-1-history) . Complex (/wiki/Complex_(magazine)) . Retrieved 31 January 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-33) Braithwaite, Naomi (17 May 2021). "The history of sneakers: from commodity to cultural icon" (https://theconversation.com/the-history-of-sneakers-from-commodity-to-cultural-icon-127268) . The Conversation . 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Closed, low-cut shoe with one or more straps This article has multiple issues. Please help improve it (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Mary_Jane_(shoe)) or discuss these issues on the talk page (/wiki/Talk:Mary_Jane_(shoe)) . ( Learn how and when to remove these template messages (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) This article possibly contains original research (/wiki/Wikipedia:No_original_research) . Please improve it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Mary_Jane_(shoe)&action=edit) by verifying (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) the claims made and adding inline citations (/wiki/Wikipedia:Citing_sources#Inline_citations) . Statements consisting only of original research should be removed. ( March 2017 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) This article needs additional citations for verification (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this article (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Mary_Jane_(shoe)) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Find sources: "Mary Jane" shoe (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Mary+Jane%22+shoe) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Mary+Jane%22+shoe+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Mary+Jane%22+shoe&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Mary+Jane%22+shoe+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Mary+Jane%22+shoe) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Mary+Jane%22+shoe&acc=on&wc=on) ( March 2017 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Classic Mary Jane or bar shoes by Start-rite (/wiki/Start-rite) (known as Sonnet in the United States). Mary Jane (also known as bar shoes or doll shoes ) is an American (/wiki/American_English) term ( formerly (/wiki/Genericized_trademark) a registered trademark (/wiki/Trademark#Registration) ) for a closed, low-cut shoe (/wiki/Shoe) with one or more straps across the instep (/wiki/Instep) . Classic Mary Janes for children are typically made of black leather (/wiki/Leather) or patent leather (/wiki/Patent_leather) and have one thin strap fastened with a buckle or button, a broad and rounded toe box (/wiki/Toe_box) , low heels, and thin outsoles. Among girls, Mary Janes are commonly worn with tights (/wiki/Tights) , pantyhose (/wiki/Pantyhose) , socks, and a dress, or a skirt (/wiki/Skirt) and blouse (/wiki/Blouse) . Among boys (less common), Mary Janes are traditionally worn with socks, short trousers and a shirt. Mary Janes can also be worn on bare feet by both boys and girls. History [ edit ] Children's shoes secured by a strap over the instep and fastened with a buckle or button appeared in the early 20th century. Originally worn by both sexes, they began to be perceived as being mostly for girls during the 1930s in North America and the 1940s in Europe. [1] (#cite_note-1) They were also popular with women in the 1920s. [2] (#cite_note-2) Today, Mary Janes for children, particularly the more classic styles, are often considered semi-formal or formal shoes, appropriate for school (many schools worldwide require that girls wear them with their uniform), religious ceremonies, weddings, visits, and birthday parties for example. More modern styles are also worn in casual settings, however: playgrounds, shopping centres, sports (Mary Jane sneakers), etc. Although less popular than in the past, Mary Janes remain a timeless classic of children's fashion and, for many people, a symbol of girlhood. Moreover, Mary Janes are a preferred accessory of many traditional or folk costumes, such as those of the flamenco female dancer (/wiki/Flamenco_shoe) and of the typical woman in Mao (/wiki/Mao_Zedong) 's China (/wiki/History_of_the_People%27s_Republic_of_China_(1949%E2%80%931976)) and the Kims (/wiki/Kim_dynasty_(North_Korea)) ' North Korea (/wiki/North_Korea) . [ citation needed ] Etymology [ edit ] Mary Jane was a character created by Richard Felton Outcault (/wiki/Richard_Felton_Outcault) , "Father of the Sunday Comic Strip", for his comic strip Buster Brown (/wiki/Buster_Brown) , which was first published in 1902. She was the sister of the title character Buster Brown and was drawn from real life (/wiki/Tuckerization) , as Outcault had a daughter of the same name. In Outcault's and his daughter's words, she was the only character drawn from life in the Buster Brown strip although "Mrs. Brown" resembled Outcault's wife. [3] (#cite_note-nyt-3) In 1904, Outcault traveled to the St. Louis World's Fair (/wiki/Louisiana_Purchase_Exposition) and sold licenses to up to 200 companies to use the Buster Brown characters to advertise their products. Among them was the Brown Shoe Company (/wiki/Brown_Shoe_Company) , which later hired actors to tour the country, performing as the Buster Brown characters in theaters and stores. This strategy helped the Brown Shoe Company become the most prominently associated brand with the Buster Brown characters. The style of shoe both Buster Brown and Mary Jane wore came to be known by her name, Mary Jane. [4] (#cite_note-conway-4) [5] (#cite_note-buster-5) Adult styles [ edit ] While the classic Mary Jane still retains its wide popularity and appeal, platform style Mary Janes have also evolved since the late 1990s, with 1-cm to 3-cm (½-in to 1-in) outsoles and 8-cm to 13-cm (3-in to 5-in) "chunky" heels, often with exaggerated grommets or buckles. The 1920s-style Mary Janes were a famous part of flappers' ensembles, thus reinforcing the childlike style the flappers had. These styles were especially popular in the United States (/wiki/United_States) in the late 1990s and early 2000s, within punk rock (/wiki/Punk_rock) , psychobilly (/wiki/Psychobilly) and goth (/wiki/Goth_subculture) subcultures. Many times the wearers would accent the look with knee-high knit socks in dark-colored stripes or patterns and/or some form of hosiery (stockings/pantyhose), and often complete the look with a plaid, pleated schoolgirl (/wiki/Student) -style skirt. During the early 2000s, block-heeled Mary Jane shoes were popular in the United Kingdom and were fastened by a rectangular chrome buckle and were made under various brand names such as No Doubt , Koi Couture etc. [ citation needed ] Mary Janes are a popular part of kinderwhore (/wiki/Kinderwhore) and Lolita fashion (/wiki/Lolita_fashion) . A pump (/wiki/Court_shoe) with a strap across the instep may be referred to as a "Mary Jane pump", although it does not have the low heels or wide toe of the original Mary Jane (and a pump is generally strapless by definition). Gallery [ edit ] Modern chunky-heeled Mary Jane shoes The family of Prince Oskar of Prussia (/wiki/Prince_Oskar_of_Prussia) in 1925: the three boys (aged 10, 8, and 3) are wearing Mary Janes. Orthopedic Mary Janes Modern Mary Jane school shoes worn with socks. Usually worn by primary school (/wiki/Primary_school) -aged girls, even in the 21st century. See also [ edit ] Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) T-bar sandal (/wiki/T-bar_sandal) —a very similar style References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Historical Boys' Clothing: Strap Shoes" (http://histclo.com/style/foot/sandal/shoestrap.html) . Histclo.com . Retrieved 2012-06-21 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Brighton University: Screen Archive Glossary" (http://www.brighton.ac.uk/screenarchive/fashion/glossary.html) . Brighton.ac.uk . Retrieved 2012-06-21 . ^ (#cite_ref-nyt_3-0) "MISS OUTCAULT WEDS GEN. PERSHING'S NEPHEW; Cartoonist's Daughter, Original Mary Jane of Buster Brown, Marries Capt. F.E. Pershing" (https://www.nytimes.com/1921/03/20/archives/miss-outcault-weds-gen-pershings-nephew-cartoonists-daughter.html) . The New York Times . 20 March 1921 . Retrieved 11 July 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-conway_4-0) Conway, Susannah (16 August 1998). "Fashion: The history of... The Mary Jane shoe: Called to the bar" (https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion-the-history-of-the-mary-jane-shoe-called-to-the-bar-1172022.html) . The Independent . Retrieved 11 July 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-buster_5-0) "Buster Brown Shoes and Mary Janes" (https://americacomesalive.com/2016/06/20/buster-brown-shoes-mary-janes/) . America Comes Alive . 20 June 2016 . 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British clothing retailer Sock Shop Industry Retail Specialist Founded 1983 ; 41 years ago ( 1983 ) Headquarters Bolton, Greater Manchester , United Kingdom (/wiki/United_Kingdom) Products Socks Hosiery Tights Underwear Accessories Parent (/wiki/Parent_company) Ruia Group SOCKSHOP is a British (/wiki/United_Kingdom) -based specialist retailer of socks (/wiki/Socks) and hosiery (/wiki/Hosiery) . Founded in 1983 by Sophie Mirman and Richard P. Ross, SOCKSHOP became part of the Ruia Group in 2006, and is now based mainly online, with stores in the Manchester Arndale (/wiki/Manchester_Arndale) and The Lowry Outlet (/wiki/The_Lowry) , as well as concessions across the United Kingdom (/wiki/United_Kingdom) . Business history [ edit ] Founding [ edit ] SOCKSHOP was founded by husband-and-wife team Sophie Mirman (daughter of milliner (/wiki/Millinery) Simone Mirman (/wiki/Simone_Mirman) ) and Richard P. Ross, a former colleague of Mirman's at speciality retailer Tie Rack (/wiki/Tie_Rack) ; both Ross and Mirman had acted as retail directors before leaving to launch SOCKSHOP. [1] (#cite_note-Lohr-1) Mirman envisioned a range of small shops selling only women's tights (/wiki/Tights) , stockings (/wiki/Stockings) and socks (/wiki/Socks) , with the aim of customers being able to purchase socks and hosiery "as easily as they buy newspapers". [1] (#cite_note-Lohr-1) Mirman, through her experience as a junior secretary at Marks & Spencer (/wiki/Marks_%26_Spencer) and then later through its management training programme, had identified a need to buy stylish hosiery without having to hunt through large department stores (/wiki/Department_stores) to find it, which at the time dominated the British hosiery market. [1] (#cite_note-Lohr-1) With the assistance of a Government loan guarantee (/wiki/Loan_guarantee) programme for capital-short entrepreneurs, Mirman and Ross launched SockShop in 1983. SOCKSHOP outlets were purchased, many placed for their convenience on busy city streets, in train stations, subway stations and airport, and for their small size, with most having a floor space of between 400–12,000 square feet (37–1,115 m 2 ) and no visible doors. [1] (#cite_note-Lohr-1) Their stock featured bold colours, dramatic patterns and novelty designs in hundreds of styles. Prices were considered moderate at £0.99 to £24.99 per pair in 1987, with the priciest designs including gold-lace tights. [1] (#cite_note-Lohr-1) Early years [ edit ] The first SockShop store was opened on the concourse (/wiki/Concourse) of the Knightsbridge (/wiki/Knightsbridge) tube station (/wiki/Tube_station) . Though the business' original ambitions were modest, exceeding no more than four or six retail outlets, [1] (#cite_note-Lohr-1) by 1987, there were 52 stores in the SOCKSHOP chain, with the business having become one of the fastest-growing speciality retailing businesses in Europe. [1] (#cite_note-Lohr-1) Mirman had become the 188th richest person in Britain, and its youngest millionaire. [2] (#cite_note-Jack-2) In November 1987, SockShop (recently renamed as a company to Sock Shop International P.L.C ) opened three stores in Manhattan (/wiki/Manhattan) , aiming (as in London) towards walk-by traffic. One of these outlets was at the 42nd Street (/wiki/42nd_Street_(Manhattan)) entrance to Grand Central Station (/wiki/Grand_Central_Terminal) , the same principle as behind the first British store's placement. Administration to present day [ edit ] A couple of years later, when recession (/wiki/Recession) struck, Mirman and Ross discovered that their equity (worth £50 million in 1988) had become valueless, and were overwhelmed by debts. [2] (#cite_note-Jack-2) In 1990, the business entered administration and BDO Binder Hamlyn (/wiki/BDO_International) took over. 58 shops, including 17 outlets in the United States (/wiki/United_States) (14 in New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) alone) were closed down, and discussions were entered with interested parties to try to get new funding capital for financing expansion in Europe. [3] (#cite_note-3) Despite the closures, administrators recommended Mirman to be retained in a key role, praising her business acumen. [4] (#cite_note-4) In August 1990, the business, 85 shops, and the French subsidiary were purchased for £3.25 million (plus an injection of £3.75 million working capital) by a consortium backed by Scottish fund manager (/wiki/Investment_management) Murray Johnstone. The company was renamed SockShop Holdings . Unsecured creditors and shareholders in SockShop International received no money from the sale. The chairman for Murray Johnstone Developments, Fred Dalgarno, blamed the expense of the US operation and over-expansion for Sock Shop's problems. Having shed the burden of their debts, it was planned that SockShop Holdings be expanded more cautiously. [5] (#cite_note-5) SockShop Holdings fell back into the administrator's hands a second time after becoming part of the Facia Group (/wiki/Facia_Group) , a retail conglomerate of 850 shops and 80,000 employees that collapsed in 1996 with debts of £70m due to the fraudulent actions of its owner, Stephen Hinchliffe (/wiki/Stephen_Hinchliffe) . [6] (#cite_note-6) It was subsequently acquired by the Tulchan Group. In 2003, SockShop (by then reduced to 13 stores across the UK) was bought for £3.9 million by the Birmingham (/wiki/Birmingham) -based firm of Harris Watson Holdings. The firm collapsed a third time in 2006. The administrators, Poppleton & Appleby (/w/index.php?title=Poppleton_%26_Appleby&action=edit&redlink=1) , were brought in on 25 January 2006 to try and salvage the dramatically reduced company. This third collapse was attributed to substantial losses as a result of a slowdown in consumer spending (/wiki/Consumer_spending) and a rise in running costs. [7] (#cite_note-7) In February 2006, following administration, it was bought by Osan Ltd which is a subsidiary of Ruia Group. Online shop [ edit ] Following the 2006 purchase, SOCKSHOP became primarily an internet retailer, and is based at Dove Mill in Bolton (/wiki/Bolton) . The online store, www.sockshop.co.uk, houses SOCKSHOP's largest collection, including socks, tights, hosiery, underwear and accessories from more than 90 brands – among them Falke, Pantherella, Calvin Klein (/wiki/Calvin_Klein_(company)) , Sloggi (/wiki/Sloggi) , Happy Socks (/wiki/Happy_Socks) and Stance (/wiki/Stance_(brand)) , as well as several of their own brands, including Pringle (/wiki/Pringle_of_Scotland) , ELLE, Heat Holders, Glenmuir (/wiki/Glenmuir) , Jeep (/wiki/Jeep) , Workforce and Wild Feet. SOCKSHOP.co.uk boasts a wide and growing range of bamboo (/wiki/Bamboo_textile) products, including socks and underwear. Physical stores [ edit ] SOCKSHOP has two main stores, as well as a number of concessions across the UK. SOCKSHOP's store in the Manchester Arndale (/wiki/Manchester_Arndale) shopping centre The Lowry Outlet [ edit ] SOCKSHOP opened a store in The Lowry Outlet in 2014, selling a selection of socks from the company's own brands, as well as items from other companies within the Ruia Group. Manchester Arndale [ edit ] In 2015, SOCKSHOP opened a store in the Manchester Arndale (/wiki/Manchester_Arndale) shopping centre in Manchester city centre. Located on the ground floor of the centre, the store sells a range of products from SOCKSHOP's own brands. [8] (#cite_note-8) Charity work [ edit ] Socks for a Cause [ edit ] In 2018, SOCKSHOP launched its Socks For A Cause campaign, [9] (#cite_note-9) donating 20,000 pairs of socks to various homelessness charities [10] (#cite_note-10) in an effort to combat the growing problem of trenchfoot (/wiki/Trenchfoot) amongst homeless people, and to help tackle the homelessness problem in Greater Manchester (/wiki/Greater_Manchester) . SOCKSHOP continues to donate socks, underwear and accessories to homeless charities across the country. Pride socks [ edit ] SOCKSHOP designed and launched a range of Pride (/wiki/Pride_parade) socks in 2017, donating 20% from the sale of each pair sold to the LGBT Foundation (/wiki/LGBT_Foundation_(UK)) , a Manchester-based charity which provides help and support for members of the LGBT+ (/wiki/LGBT%2B) community. See also [ edit ] Clothing portal (/wiki/Portal:Clothing) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) List of sock manufacturers (/wiki/List_of_sock_manufacturers) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g Lohr, Steve, A "Silly" Sock Idea Makes Millions , The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) , November 23, 1987 ^ Jump up to: a b O'Sullivan, Jack (21 August 1998). "Going to the dogs (and other ways to survive a recession)". The Independent (/wiki/The_Independent) . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Butler, Sarah, Sock Shop Looks for New Capital in Drapers (/wiki/Drapers_(magazine)) , 20 January 1990 ^ (#cite_ref-4) Sophie Mirman May Play Key Role In Sock Shop Rescue Package , Drapers (/wiki/Drapers_(magazine)) , 2 June 1990 ^ (#cite_ref-5) Butler, Sarah, Sock Shop's Future Plans Revealed Following Consortium Acquisition in Drapers (/wiki/Drapers_(magazine)) , 11 August 1990 ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Tycoon jailed after "lenient" sentence" (http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/south_yorkshire/3071285.stm) . BBC News (/wiki/BBC_News) . 16 July 2003 . Retrieved 23 April 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Butler, Sarah (26 January 2006). "Buyer sought for Sock Shop as it collapses for third time" (https://www.thetimes.co.uk/article/buyer-sought-for-sock-shop-as-it-collapses-for-third-time-s8sz2gpvpvc) . The Times (/wiki/The_Times) . Retrieved 12 May 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) Greer, Stuart (22 August 2018). "Fashion retailer SockShop enjoys a 31 per cent sales boost" (https://www.manchestereveningnews.co.uk/business/business-news/fashion-retailer-sockshop-bolton-manchester-15058868) . Manchester Evening News (/wiki/Manchester_Evening_News) . Retrieved 11 May 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Donated socks used to fight trench foot in homeless people" (https://www.itv.com/news/granada/update/2018-08-20/socks-for-the-homeless/) . ITV News (/wiki/ITV_News) . Retrieved 6 June 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) Kennedy, Dionne (6 February 2018). "No mean feet – Manchester charities receive a year's supply of socks" (https://www.bigissue.com/latest/no-mean-feet-manchester-charities-receive-years-supply-socks/) . The Big Issue (/wiki/The_Big_Issue) . Retrieved 6 June 2019 . External links [ edit ] Official website (http://www.sockshop.co.uk/) Sock Shop puts its best foot forward again – Telegraph Article August 2009 (https://web.archive.org/web/20090804130515/http://www.telegraph.co.uk/finance/newsbysector/retailandconsumer/5961278/Sock-Shop-puts-its-best-foot-forward-again.html) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐api‐int.eqiad.main‐967764f4‐8fsf4 Cached time: 20240701001125 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.492 seconds Real time usage: 0.761 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1863/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 19093/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 1552/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 15/100 Expensive parser function count: 5/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 27715/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.287/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 7094767/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 531.100 1 -total 32.73% 173.849 1 Template:Reflist 31.22% 165.786 1 Template:Infobox_company 28.17% 149.603 1 Template:Infobox 25.73% 136.656 4 Template:Cite_news 17.74% 94.240 1 Template:Short_description 10.72% 56.929 2 Template:Pagetype 6.20% 32.906 1 Template:Convert 5.64% 29.957 1 Template:Portal 4.25% 22.598 7 Template:Main_other Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:2534462-0!canonical and timestamp 20240701001125 and revision id 1166265227. Rendering was triggered because: api-parse esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Sock_Shop&oldid=1166265227 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Sock_Shop&oldid=1166265227) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : 1983 establishments in the United Kingdom (/wiki/Category:1983_establishments_in_the_United_Kingdom) Clothing retailers of the United Kingdom (/wiki/Category:Clothing_retailers_of_the_United_Kingdom) Hosiery brands (/wiki/Category:Hosiery_brands) Retail companies established in 1983 (/wiki/Category:Retail_companies_established_in_1983) Socks (/wiki/Category:Socks) Hidden categories: Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description is different from Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_is_different_from_Wikidata) EngvarB from April 2022 (/wiki/Category:EngvarB_from_April_2022) Use dmy dates from April 2022 (/wiki/Category:Use_dmy_dates_from_April_2022)

Singaporean model (1968-1997) Bonny Hicks Born Bonny Susan Hicks ( 1968-01-05 ) 5 January 1968 Kuala Lumpur (/wiki/Kuala_Lumpur) , Malaysia Died 19 December 1997 (1997-12-19) (aged 29) Palembang (/wiki/Palembang) , South Sumatra (/wiki/South_Sumatra) , Indonesia Nationality Singaporean Occupation(s) Catwalk model (/wiki/Catwalk_model) , writer Bonny Susan Hicks (5 January 1968 – 19 December 1997) was a Singaporean model and writer. After garnering local fame as a model, she gained worldwide recognition for her contributions to Singaporean post-colonial literature (/wiki/Post-colonial_literature) and the anthropic (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/anthropic) philosophy conveyed in her works. Her first book, Excuse Me, Are You A Model? , is recognised as a significant milestone in the literary (/wiki/Literature_of_Singapore) and cultural history of Singapore (/wiki/Culture_of_Singapore) . [1] (#cite_note-journal-1) Hicks later published a second book, Discuss Disgust , and many shorter pieces in press outlets, including a short-lived opinion column in a major Singaporean daily that was pulled due to public dissent from Singaporean traditionalists. Hicks died at age 29 on 19 December 1997 aboard SilkAir Flight 185 (/wiki/SilkAir_Flight_185) when it crashed into the Musi River (/wiki/Musi_River_(Indonesia)) on the Indonesian island of Sumatra (/wiki/Sumatra) . The U.S.'s National Transportation Safety Board (/wiki/National_Transportation_Safety_Board) (NTSB) expressed the likelihood that the crash was an act of suicide and mass murder by the troubled Singaporean pilot. All 97 passengers and 7 crew members perished. After Hicks' death, numerous publications including the book Heaven Can Wait: Conversations with Bonny Hicks by Tal Ben-Shahar (/wiki/Tal_Ben-Shahar) featured her life and thought. [2] (#cite_note-cnn-2) Although she was deemed controversial by many during her lifetime because of her willingness to openly discuss human sexuality (/wiki/Human_sexuality) , Singaporean literary scholars during the last years of Hicks' life saw in her a pivotally important voice for interpreting their contemporary society. Hicks' legacy is one of an important transitional social figure between traditionalist Singapore and the broad-scale societal changes that occurred in the country under the forces of globalisation (/wiki/Globalisation) as the 21st century approached. Her death resulted in the loss of a Singaporean national voice that was both growing and important yet internally conflicted while socially confrontive. Criticisms by Singaporean traditionalists during her modelling and authoring careers continually vexed Hicks' conscience and drove her to re-evaluate her life during her later years. Hicks ultimately made a sustained series of traditionalist choices during her final years of life. [3] (#cite_note-ips-3) Early life [ edit ] Hicks was born in 1968 in Kuala Lumpur (/wiki/Kuala_Lumpur) , Malaysia, to a British father, Ron Hicks, and a Cantonese (/wiki/Cantonese) -speaking Singaporean- Chinese (/wiki/Han_Chinese) mother, Betty Soh. Her parents separated shortly after her birth and Soh relocated to Singapore in 1969 with her infant daughter. There, Hicks' formative social environment (/wiki/Social_environment) was multi-ethnic, multi-lingual, and included Malays (/wiki/Malays_in_Singapore) , Indians (/wiki/Indians_in_Singapore) , and Chinese (/wiki/Chinese_Singaporean) of various dialect groups. [4] (#cite_note-tu-4) Although Hicks was biracial (/wiki/Biracial) , she identified as Chinese during her early childhood, speaking Cantonese and watching Chinese-language television at home. When Hicks was twelve, her mother accepted a job as a caretaker of a bungalow in Sentosa (/wiki/Sentosa) , Singapore, and they relocated to the island away from a Singaporean Housing and Development Board (/wiki/Housing_and_Development_Board) flat in Toa Payoh (/wiki/Toa_Payoh) . [5] (#cite_note-tnp20-5) Throughout her teens, Hicks lived with her mother on Sentosa Island, [6] (#cite_note-mermaid-6) and intermittently with her porpor (grandmother) with whom she enjoyed a particularly close relationship. [7] (#cite_note-truth-7) Hicks never met her father. At aged sixteen, she traced his whereabouts through the British High Commission (/wiki/British_High_Commission) , with whom he was stationed on Singapore during Hicks' conception. Married with children from his new arrangement, and likely keeping his past muffled from his new family, Hicks' father returned word via fax (/wiki/Fax) to her that he wanted nothing to do with her. Despite Hicks' superficial joking whenever publicly questioned about it, her father's rejection of her remained deeply hurtful to Hicks throughout her life. [8] (#cite_note-covgirl-8) [9] (#cite_note-covergirl-9) Hicks' early years were marked by "few friends" and she stated that she made no serious friends after age 15—that is, until she met Patricia Chan Li-Yin (/wiki/Pat_Chan) , but even then things were hard to define. After Chan retired from being a Singaporean sports hero, a decorated female swimmer, she became a magazine editor and talent agent. [10] (#cite_note-10) After Hicks' and Chan's paths crossed, Chan become a pivotally important person in Hicks' life and career. The relationship was often confused and complicated by even Hicks' own account. [11] (#cite_note-Excuse_Me,_7-11) Finding fame [ edit ] Discovery and first mentor [ edit ] Chan "discovered" the nineteen-year-old Bonnie Hicks shortly after Hicks completed her A levels (/wiki/Advanced_Level_(UK)) at the Hwa Chong Junior College (/wiki/Hwa_Chong_Junior_College) . Hicks and Chan enjoyed a close, multi-leveled, complicated relationship that was both professional and personal. Hicks referred to Chan as "Mum", and some surmised that there was perhaps more to the relationship. Stemming from ambiguous statements Hicks later made in her first book, (e.g., "I was in love with Pat Chan"), Singaporeans widely speculated whether the two were involved in a lesbian relationship. While the statements in Hicks' book could be interpreted as indicating only an intimate mentoring relationship with Chan, whom Hicks clearly idealized and greatly admired, she continued to be ambiguous on the subject whenever questioned. This created a sense of mystery about Hicks' persona and contributed to her ongoing buzz and publicity. [3] (#cite_note-ips-3) [9] (#cite_note-covergirl-9) Modeling [ edit ] Hicks' modelling career began with a showcase in the September 1987 cover of a now-defunct Singaporean fashion monthly, GO . In a short while, she expanded into other modelling outlets, including ones in Indonesia. She continued to expand her appearances on magazine covers, print advertisements, catwalk appearances in designer clothes, and in a music video for a top-10 hit by the Singaporean indie (/wiki/Independent_music) band The Oddfellows . Things looked bright. [12] (#cite_note-12) A year into Hicks' modelling career, she began writing about her life experiences and ideas stemming from her modelling. By age twenty-one she had completed her first book, Excuse Me, are you a Model? [4] (#cite_note-tu-4) She continued to model for five more years and in 1992, at the age of twenty-four, released her second book Discuss Disgust . Hicks then left modelling to take a job as a department lead and copywriter (/wiki/Copywriter) in Jakarta (/wiki/Jakarta) , Indonesia. At the time, Hicks reiterated a statement she had made in her first book: that she had never wanted to be a model in the first place. [13] (#cite_note-change-13) Instead, her dream since age thirteen had been to be a writer. It was then that she had begun keeping a diary of her feelings and experiences, a practice she continued throughout her life. Hicks drew from her documented memories in each of her writings. [3] (#cite_note-ips-3) [7] (#cite_note-truth-7) [9] (#cite_note-covergirl-9) [11] (#cite_note-Excuse_Me,_7-11) Literary contributions and controversy [ edit ] Excuse Me, Are You a Model? [ edit ] Hicks published her first work Excuse Me, Are You a Model? in Singapore in 1990. The book is her autobiographical exposé of the modelling and fashion world and contains frequent, candid discussion about her sexuality (/wiki/Human_sexuality) , a subject that was not traditionally broached in Singaporean society at the time. The work stirred significant controversy among Singaporeans who held traditional literary and moral standards. Traditionalists considered Hicks' work a "kiss and tell" book that disclosed "too much too soon" from an independent woman still in her early twenties. Singaporean youth, on the other hand, had a starkly different view; twelve thousand copies were sold within two weeks, prompting the book's publisher to boast Hicks' work as "the biggest book sensation in the annals of Singapore publishing"—an accurate claim. [14] (#cite_note-flame-14) During the years leading up to her death, Singaporean English literature scholars had begun to recognise more than just a simple generational divide in the reactions to Hicks' book, and were describing it as "an important work" in the confessional (/wiki/Confessional_writing) mode of the genre of post-colonial literature (/wiki/Post-colonial_literature) . [15] (#cite_note-post-col2-15) Well before Hick's book was deemed "a significant milestone in Singapore's literary and cultural history," Singaporean young people had already established a localized literary movement (/wiki/Literary_movement) , following Hicks' lead. Local markets soon became inundated with the autobiographies of fame-seeking youth, many not yet in their twenties. [1] (#cite_note-journal-1) Discuss Disgust [ edit ] In 1992, two years after Hicks' controversial entry into Singapore's literary scene, she published her second and last book, Discuss Disgust. The novella, literarily more sophisticated but never as popular as her first book, portrays the world as seen through the eyes of a child whose mother is a prostitute. In it, Hicks continued to openly discuss sexuality, and in veiled terms broached the taboo of sexual abuse, both subjects that were not normally openly spoken of in Singapore during the time. [16] (#cite_note-16) Adding fuel to the controversy surrounding Hicks, a widely read local traditionalist columnist dubbed Discuss Disgust as "another one of those commercial publications which pack sleaze and sin into its hundred-oddpages" (sic). [17] (#cite_note-17) While an understanding of Discuss Disgust was much greater than was let on among even traditionalists critics, social pressures meant that few people openly accepted the novella for what it actually was: Hicks' semi-autobiographical account of her own troubled childhood years, an only partially veiled yet immediately unsuccessful cry for the public to reinterpret her early adult years through the psychological trauma (/wiki/Psychological_trauma) of her childhood years. [18] (#cite_note-discussdisgust-18) [19] (#cite_note-post-col-19) "The Bonny Hicks Diary" [ edit ] Hicks was also a frequent contributor to Singaporean and regional press outlets. [4] (#cite_note-tu-4) Her frankly-written bi-monthly column in The Straits Times (/wiki/The_Straits_Times) , "The Bonny Hicks Diary", in which she often discussed her childhood on Sentosa Island (/wiki/Sentosa_Island) , further incited traditionalists' feelings that Hicks was an improper role model for young, impressionable girls, whom traditionalists felt were being morally corrupted by Hicks. Yielding to public traditionalist pressure, spurred initially by a letter writing campaign to the paper, the Times pulled her column within a year. The paper's esteemed editor, Richard Lim, subsequently voiced regret over what he considered a politically motivated decision by the paper. Pushing back as far as practicable, Lim began running frequent "special" columns by Hicks. Having taken a mentoring interest in Hicks' development as a writer since her first publication, Lim was uniquely authoritative when he publicly noted the deepening of Hicks' writings as she matured. [8] (#cite_note-covgirl-8) Third Book? [ edit ] At the time of Discuss Disgust' s release, Hicks reported to The Straits Times that she had been working on a third book, one that centred on correspondence between herself and an unnamed female housemate. Hicks wrote of her social observations of the United States during a two-month visit, using it as a springboard to make social commentary about Singapore. While the book idea further revealed Hicks' preference to write with a certain person in mind it never materialised, not even in draft form or as personal papers released posthumously. [7] (#cite_note-truth-7) Life transition [ edit ] Introspection [ edit ] During Hicks' heyday, few had begun to adequately situate her life and works within the larger societal changes that had enveloped Singapore at the time under forces of rapid globalisation (/wiki/Globalisation) —changes that, by then, were simply far too advanced and powerful to altogether stop the clock upon by the traditionally successful means of shaming and ostracising. For the most part, traditionalists (/wiki/Conservatism) simply reacted from gut-level fear (/wiki/Fear) against Hicks, or a simplified characterisation or straw man (/wiki/Straw_man) of her, whom they perceived as a "notorious" moral threat willing to degrade Singaporean society for personal fame and financial gain. Even though the criticisms were not entirely fair—they certainly contained at least a kernel of truth—their accumulation had long been taking a toll upon Hicks' perseverance, eroding away at even her senses of identity, purpose, and wholeness, and thus her basic senses of faith, hope, and peace about the future. While she yet continued to milk opportunities for self-promotion, as Pat Chan had early on taught her to do, it was becoming clearer and clearer that Hicks had for some time been deep within a season of personal introspection, and had been laying plans for a significant life and career transition that appeared to be informed by the values of Singaporean traditionalists. Whilst she was perhaps conceding a victory to her traditionalist critics amid her life transition, her life change was caused at least as much by her own personal maturing away from the years and seemingly unrestrained values of her youth, although there was certainly an interplay of both external and internal forces that prodded her along. [18] (#cite_note-discussdisgust-18) [19] (#cite_note-post-col-19) Overall, Hicks's self-promotional success efforts had begun to painfully wane; so, she took pause and introspectively re-evaluated her life. [18] (#cite_note-discussdisgust-18) [19] (#cite_note-post-col-19) Of this tumultuous period Hicks confessed, I experienced great happiness and great sorrow in my life. While the great happiness was uplifting and renewing, the sorrow ate at me slowly, like a worm in the core of an apple. I realised then that stable happiness was not mine until I could eliminate the sorrow too. The sorrow which I experienced was often due to the fact that my own happiness came at a price. That price was someone else's happiness. [20] (#cite_note-canwait-20) New mentors, new growth [ edit ] Despite Hicks' confession that she had harmed others along her path to fame, and her intention to reverse the trend, she all along had her supporters—those who comprehended her on a level deeper than the mere fandom she had so often sought to instigate toward herself, and who saw in Hicks a young lady not trying to offend but to initiate critical conversations within a culture that was often far too resistant to anything beyond the familiar. To them, Hicks' anthropical philosophy of life that featured loving, caring and sharing was not only refreshing but important, perhaps more than even Hicks herself could appreciate at the time. A growing voice appeared to emerge clearly in her writings, and it attracted many Singaporeans and others, including some scholars. Two of the scholars would become pivotally influential new mentors to Hicks during her major traditionalist life transition, the ultimate result of which, as things would turn out, would be cut short by her untimely death. [3] (#cite_note-ips-3) [4] (#cite_note-tu-4) One of Hicks' new mentors was Tal Ben-Shahar (/wiki/Tal_Ben-Shahar) , a positive psychologist (/wiki/Positive_psychology) and popular professor of psychology at the time at Harvard University (/wiki/Harvard_University) . Hicks reached out to Ben-Shahar after being exposed to his writings, and the two corresponded about philosophical and spiritual matters for approximately one year, on up until Hicks' 1997 death. The correspondence later became basis for a 1998 book by Ben-Shahar, in which he narrated Hicks' profound growth during the year. [4] (#cite_note-tu-4) Hicks had also become a student of Confucian humanism (/wiki/Confucianism) , and she was particularly attracted to the thought of a second Harvard professor, Tu Wei-Ming (/wiki/Tu_Wei-Ming) , a New Confucian (/wiki/New_Confucian) philosopher, who became a second new mentor to Hicks. Hicks attended Tu's seminars and the two corresponded over some months. With Tu's influence added to that of Ben-Shahar's, Hicks began to exhibit an increased New Confucian influence upon her thinking, and she soon turned in her occasional Straits Times columns to criticising Singaporean society from the theme. In one piece, she expressed dismay about the "lack of understanding of Confucianism as it was intended to be and the political version of the ideology to which we [as Singaporeans] are exposed today." Just before Hicks' death she had submitted what Editor Richard Lim recognised as her most mature column ever to The Straits Times . The daily posthumously published "I think and feel, therefore I am", on 28 December 1997. [4] (#cite_note-tu-4) In it Hicks argued, Thinking is more than just conceiving ideas and drawing inferences; thinking is also reflection and contemplation. When we take embodied thinking rather than abstract reasoning as a goal for our mind, then we understand that thinking is a transformative act. The mind will not only deduce, speculate, and comprehend, but it will also awaken, will enlighten and inspire. Si, is how I have thought, and always will think. [4] (#cite_note-tu-4) Tu asserts that Hicks' use of the Chinese character Si was "code language," readily understood by her Chinese-speaking English readers, to convey New Confucian thought. The piece, Hicks' last, reflects the maturing and deepening engagement in philosophy and spirituality that she had clearly been enveloped in under tutelage of her new mentors during her last year of life. [4] (#cite_note-tu-4) Redefining herself [ edit ] Move to Indonesia [ edit ] When Hicks penned Excuse Me, are you a Model? , her intent was to write a first book to which people would react . Whether those reactions were positive or negative was not her young mind's first concern. Only public indifference , the antithesis of public reaction , would impede her achievement of fame and popularity, she believed—a message Pat Chan had surely instilled in Hicks from the start. Hicks described her own early motivations: I wanted to be something all young girls aspired to be, I wanted to be that model that men lusted after, I wanted to be that model that people would recognise on the streets. I wanted to be that model that clients would never stop demanding for, I wanted to be that model, that face, that would launch a thousand ships. I wanted to be a star. [21] (#cite_note-21) Although Hicks never fully attained her stardom goals, and although she later distanced herself from her goals on the matter, Singaporeans broadly took note of the nature of her early attempts at becoming famous. Few people found themselves able to respond to Hicks with a mere shrug, a fact that fueled not only her popularity among her supporters but the controversy that so doggedly followed her among her critics. While tasting the intense and transitory flavor of fame, Hicks' limited life experience could not have led her to anticipate the intensity of the negative reactions that would accompany her attempts under the spotlight, could not have allowed her to surmise the toll that the negative words and societal shunning (/wiki/Shunning) would take upon her psyche over time. In many ways, her move to Indonesia, which coincided with her plea for greater public understanding as released in her second book, Discuss Disgust , was an attempt to escape the intense controversy she had experienced in Singapore over her first book, Excuse Me, Are You a Model? Whether her departure was something of a victory for traditionalists, a mere admission to herself of her limited constitution to withstand societal disapprobation, an outcome of simply her own maturation, or some combination of the three, cannot be known with certainty. What is clear, however, is that her hope through her move was to find a reprieve from the societal shunning she had been experiencing from traditionalists in Singapore; to move to a place where she could deepen and further redefine herself and perhaps undertake a larger and much wiser relaunching of herself in Singapore. Due to her untimely death, it was never to be. [3] (#cite_note-ips-3) [4] (#cite_note-tu-4) [9] (#cite_note-covergirl-9) Heading to university [ edit ] Part of Hicks' plan was to attend university (/wiki/Higher_education) . Although Hicks publicly downplayed her lack of higher education, she privately expressed regret that she had not studied past her A-levels (/wiki/GCE_Advanced_Level) , a fact traditionalist critics had used against her and her writings with no small frequency. During the year leading up to her 1997 death, Hicks applied to numerous universities in Britain and the United States, including Harvard (/wiki/Harvard) . During her application processes Hicks called upon her Harvard mentors to exert influence on her behalf, which certainly helped overcome any negative effects that remained from Hicks' unremarkable academic record during her youth. At the time she applied, Hicks could present herself as an exceptional candidate to any university she wished to attend, a veritable shoo-in. Here was a young woman who had overcome a very difficult upbringing to become a nationally known model-turned-author, and whose mind, spirit, and insights had authentically impressed the two high-level academicians who had become the predominant mentors of her life transition and letter of recommendation (/wiki/Recommendation_letter) writers. Hicks soon reported through the Singaporean press that she had received one university acceptance, refusing to say where, stating that she was awaiting other possible acceptances before ultimately deciding where to attend. [3] (#cite_note-ips-3) [4] (#cite_note-tu-4) [8] (#cite_note-covgirl-8) Marriage and family plans [ edit ] In keeping with traditionalist Singaporean pressures placed upon her, Hicks had begun to mature her image regarding her personal relationships and sexual reputation, even though her actual deeds may not have fully deserved ill repute. She made plans to marry, settle down, and have children. Shortly before her death, Hicks became engaged to her longtime boyfriend, Richard "Randy" Dalrymple, an American architect of some regional prominence because of his unique structures in Singapore and Jakarta, some featured in Architectural Digest (/wiki/Architectural_Digest) . [22] (#cite_note-22) It was to celebrate Christmas with Dalrymple's family that Hicks and Dalrymple boarded SilkAir Flight 185 (/wiki/SilkAir_Flight_185) in Jakarta en route to Singapore, probably their first such visit to the home of Dalrymple's parents as an engaged couple. The young couple never arrived, died en route, as their flight crashed into the Musi River. Death [ edit ] See also: SilkAir Flight 185 (/wiki/SilkAir_Flight_185) Less than thirty minutes into SilkAir Flight 185 with Hicks aboard, the flight began a high-speed nosedive at 35,000 feet toward the Musi River in Southern Sumatra, Indonesia. While mid-air, the plane broke into pieces before being scattered across the river's surface. Local fisherman searched the crash site for survivors with scant hope. Both Hicks and Dalrymple died with all of the rest of the passengers and crew. [3] (#cite_note-ips-3) [23] (#cite_note-latimes-23) [24] (#cite_note-24) [25] (#cite_note-asn-25) Later, divers confirmed Hicks' death at the crash site after recovering some of her personal effects (/wiki/Personal_property) , including her wallet and credit cards. [26] (#cite_note-pilot-26) Aftermath [ edit ] Hicks' death at age twenty-nine shocked Singaporeans, as well as others around the globe, and prompted a swirl of activity as people sought to interpret the meaning of a life that had been suddenly cut short. Hicks' traditionalist critics as well as her allies both looked afresh, deeper, more carefully, and perhaps with a level of nuance she had prior deserved all along. [26] (#cite_note-pilot-26) Legacy [ edit ] Post-modern author [ edit ] Hicks is a transitional yet often still-controversial figure who lived and died a tragic death amid an important period of debate over changes between traditional and globalised Singapore. Both in life and in death, her status as a writer came to eclipse her status as a model. Today she is most recognised for her contributions to Singaporean post-colonial literature that spoke out on subjects not normally broached in her society, and the anthropic philosophy contained in her writings. [4] (#cite_note-tu-4) Describing the consensus of Singaporean literary scholars in 1995, two years before Hicks' death, Ismail S. Talib in The Journal of Commonwealth Literature stated of Excuse me, are you a Model? : "We have come to realize in retrospect that Hicks's autobiographical account of her life as a model was a significant milestone in Singapore's literary and cultural history". This recognition preceded Hicks' death, and in light of the controversy, and even the societal shunning she faced because of her early writings, took her and many around her by surprise. It also helped fuel the life transition she underwent prior her death. [1] (#cite_note-journal-1) [3] (#cite_note-ips-3) [9] (#cite_note-covergirl-9) Interpreting a life cut short [ edit ] As answers and unanswered questions continued to trickle out from the flight investigations, literary scholars, both in Singapore and elsewhere, began their own investigations of Hicks' writings. Some did so anew, while others did so for the first time. [3] (#cite_note-ips-3) Tu Weiming (/wiki/Tu_Weiming) characterized Hicks' life and philosophy as providing a "sharp contrast to Hobbes (/wiki/Hobbes) ' cynic[al] view of human existence", and stated that Hicks was "the paradigmatic example of an autonomous, free-choosing individual who decided early on to construct a lifestyle congenial to her idiosyncratic sense of self-expression". More than anything, Tu said, "She was primarily a seeker of meaningful existence, a learner". [1] (#cite_note-journal-1) [15] (#cite_note-post-col2-15) [19] (#cite_note-post-col-19) Singaporean post-colonial author Grace Chia (/wiki/Grace_Chia) interpreted Hicks' life with a poem, "Mermaid Princess", that parodies (/wiki/Parody) the traditional Scottish folk song, " My Bonnie Lies over the Ocean (/wiki/My_Bonnie_Lies_over_the_Ocean) ." An excerpt of the poem characterises Hicks as one who: spoke too soon too loud too much out of turn too brutally honest too empowered by your sense/x/uality too much of I, I, I, I – I think I know I understand I love I, I, I, I. [6] (#cite_note-mermaid-6) [27] (#cite_note-womango-27) Richard Lim, the editor of The Straits Times , interpreted Hicks in a eulogy by recalling her life and contributions to the paper, and by publishing an excerpt of the famous essay "Whistling of Birds" by D. H. Lawrence (/wiki/D._H._Lawrence) . Lim began his piece with a line from the famous folk/rock song Fire and Rain (/wiki/Fire_and_Rain_(song)) by James Taylor (/wiki/James_Taylor) . "Sweet dreams and flying machines, in pieces on the ground," as if sung into his readers' memories in Taylor's melancholic tone, seemed to perfectly encapsulate much of the retrospective feeling across Singapore about Hicks' life and sudden death. [8] (#cite_note-covgirl-8) "Heaven can wait, but I cannot" [ edit ] On the first anniversary of her death, in December 1998, Tal Ben-Shahar published Heaven Can Wait: Conversations with Bonny Hicks , in which he wove together his and Hicks' year-long correspondence with his own philosophical musings. The book is an extended postmodern (/wiki/Postmodern) "conversation" between two seekers journeying intensely together in a quest for meaning and purpose. It takes its title from an article Hicks submitted to The Straits Times just days before her death, which ever after took on a hauntingly prophetic air. In it she wrote: "The brevity of life on earth cannot be overemphasized. I cannot take for granted that time is on my side—because it is not ... Heaven can wait, but I cannot". [20] (#cite_note-canwait-20) [28] (#cite_note-ap-28) In an earlier Straits Times piece that memorialised her grandmother, Hicks confessed that she believed in life after death (/wiki/Afterlife) . [4] (#cite_note-tu-4) Non-racialism [ edit ] Especially among Singaporean youth, who in the years since Hicks' death have become increasingly uncomfortable with their country's traditional backdrops of racialism (/wiki/Racialism_(Racial_categorization)) , Hicks is recognized as a person who learned to cross cultural boundaries. [ citation needed ] She lived as person who found a comfortable niche in the betwixt-and-between of contesting cultural traditions and as one who was race-blind (/wiki/Race-blind) , seeing people for who they really were. [4] (#cite_note-tu-4) Bibliography [ edit ] 'Excuse Me, are you a Model?' (1990, Flame of the Forest) ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 981-00-2051-1 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/981-00-2051-1) 剪一段深深的曾经 : 名模的流金岁月 (1991, Flame of the Forest) ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 981-00-3121-1 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/981-00-3121-1) Discuss Disgust (1992, Flame of the Forest) ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-981-00-3506-8 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-981-00-3506-8) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c d Ismail S. Talib (September 2000). "Singapore" (http://jcl.sagepub.com/cgi/reprint/35/3/95.pdf) (PDF) . Journal of Commonwealth Literature . 3 (35): 105. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20090529234137/http://jcl.sagepub.com/cgi/reprint/35/3/95.pdf) (PDF) from the original on 29 May 2009 . Retrieved 27 December 2006 . ^ (#cite_ref-cnn_2-0) "Divers battle muddy water at Indonesian crash site" (http://www.cnn.com/WORLD/9712/20/singapore.plane.615pm) . World News . CNN. 1997. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20180612162415/http://www.cnn.com/WORLD/9712/20/singapore.plane.615pm/) from the original on 12 June 2018 . Retrieved 27 December 2006 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h i Institute of Policy Studies (Singapore) (1991). "Yearly Publication". Times Academic Press for the Institute of Policy Studies . {{ cite journal (/wiki/Template:Cite_journal) }} : |author= has generic name ( help (/wiki/Help:CS1_errors#generic_name) ) ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h i j k l m Tu Wei-Ming (1998). "Celebrating Bonny Hicks' Passion for Life" (https://web.archive.org/web/20051121022527/http://www.zaobao.com/bilingual/pages/bilingual221298.html) . Harvard University. Archived from the original (http://www.zaobao.com/bilingual/pages/bilingual221298.html) on 21 November 2005 . Retrieved 27 December 2006 . ^ (#cite_ref-tnp20_5-0) Maureen, Koh (26 August 2008). "Mum spends birthdays at crash site". Singapore: The New Paper. ^ Jump up to: a b Grace Chia (1998). "Mermaid Princess" (http://www.postcolonialweb.org/singapore/literature/poetry/chia/mermaid.html) . The Literature, Culture, and Society of Singapore. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20061231175554/http://www.postcolonialweb.org/singapore/literature/poetry/chia/mermaid.html) from the original on 31 December 2006 . Retrieved 27 December 2006 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Tan Gim Ean, "A Bonny way to tell the truth" New Straits Times , 30 May 1992, 28. ^ Jump up to: a b c d "Cover Girl from first to last" (https://web.archive.org/web/20070927205924/http://www.limrichard.com/arc1997/arch_c2.htm) . Life Section . The Straits Times (Singapore). 28 December 1997. Archived from the original (http://www.limrichard.com/arc1997/arch_c2.htm) on 27 September 2007 . Retrieved 29 December 2006 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e Rahman, Sheila, "Don't judge a covergirl by her looks," New Straits Times , 2 September 1990, 10. ^ (#cite_ref-10) "Patricia Chan Li-Yin" (http://eresources.nlb.gov.sg/infopedia/articles/SIP_1376_2010-04-29.html) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20190424053230/http://eresources.nlb.gov.sg/infopedia/articles/SIP_1376_2010-04-29.html) from the original on 24 April 2019 . Retrieved 19 December 2013 . ^ Jump up to: a b Excuse Me , 7. ^ (#cite_ref-12) For info on the band, see http://www.nlb.gov.sg/blogs/libraryesplanade/music/baybeats-observation-deck-band-profile-the-oddfellows/ (http://www.nlb.gov.sg/blogs/libraryesplanade/music/baybeats-observation-deck-band-profile-the-oddfellows/) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20160304045614/http://www.nlb.gov.sg/blogs/libraryesplanade/music/baybeats-observation-deck-band-profile-the-oddfellows/) 4 March 2016 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ^ (#cite_ref-change_13-0) Majorie Chiew (27 May 1992). "Model Bonny opts for a change in scene" (https://web.archive.org/web/20061006094558/http://www.recyclingpoint.com.sg/Articles/1992may27ModelBonnyoptsforachange.htm) . The Star (Malaysia) . Archived from the original (http://www.recyclingpoint.com.sg/Articles/1992may27ModelBonnyoptsforachange.htm) on 6 October 2006 . Retrieved 29 December 2006 . ^ (#cite_ref-flame_14-0) "About Flame of the Forest Publishing" (https://web.archive.org/web/20070106020706/http://www.flameoftheforest.com/about/about_us.html) . Flame of the Forest Publishers. 2006. Archived from the original (http://www.flameoftheforest.com/about/about_us.html) on 6 January 2007 . Retrieved 27 December 2006 . ^ Jump up to: a b Poddar, Prem; Johnson, David (2005). A Historical Companion To Postcolonial Thought in English . Columbia University Press. p. 518. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-231-13506-8 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) Interview and review by Koh, Buck Song (/wiki/Koh,_Buck_Song) , "Little girl lost", The Straits Times 21 March 1992. ^ (#cite_ref-17) Tan Gim Ean, "That's why mummy is a tart" New Straits Times , 30 May 1992, 28. ^ Jump up to: a b c Hicks, Bonny (1992). Discuss Disgust . Angsana Books. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 981-00-3506-3 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d Eugene Benson & L.W. Conolly, eds.; Wei Li, Ng (1994). Encyclopedia of post-colonial literatures in English . London: Routledge. pp. 656–657. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-415-27885-6 . {{ cite book (/wiki/Template:Cite_book) }} : |last= has generic name ( help (/wiki/Help:CS1_errors#generic_name) ) ^ Jump up to: a b Ben-Shahar, Tal (1998). Heaven can Wait: Conversations with Bonny Hicks . Singapore: Times Books International. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 981-204-991-6 . ^ (#cite_ref-21) Excuse Me , 86. ^ (#cite_ref-22) See for example the April 1991 and November 1993 issues. ^ (#cite_ref-latimes_23-0) "SilkAir". Los Angeles Times . 5 September 2001. Dalrymple's architecture in Singapore was featured in: Dalrymple, Richard. "Pavilions for a Forest Setting in Singapore." Architectural Digest (4/91), 48 (4). ^ (#cite_ref-24) Dalrymple's architecture in Singapore was featured in: Dalrymple, Richard. "Pavilions for a Forest Setting in Singapore." Architectural Digest (4/91), 48 (4). ^ (#cite_ref-asn_25-0) Accident description (https://aviation-safety.net/database/record.php?id=19971219-0) at the Aviation Safety Network (/wiki/Aviation_Safety_Network) ^ Jump up to: a b " The pilot who wanted to die (http://pachome1.pacific.net.sg/~silkair.mi185/smhpilot.htm) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20110722012332/http://pachome1.pacific.net.sg/~silkair.mi185/smhpilot.htm) 22 July 2011 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ", Sydney Morning Herald , 10 July 1999. ^ (#cite_ref-womango_27-0) Chia, Grace (1998). Womango . Singapore: Rank Books. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 981-04-0583-9 . ^ (#cite_ref-ap_28-0) Geoff Spencer (21 December 1997). "Most passengers still strapped in their seats". Associated Press. External links [ edit ] Bonny Hicks Education & Training Centre (https://web.archive.org/web/20070308175258/http://www.scwo.org.sg/cms/content/category/4/78/54/) . The centre was opened in Hicks' honour in 2000 by the Singapore Council of Women's Organisations. Photos available. (https://web.archive.org/web/20080113044551/http://www.scwo.org.sg/cms/content/view/19/44/) Excerpt of (http://eservice.nlb.gov.sg/viewer/BookSG/1e9c0c5c-0b5f-46d0-bf13-c813cf034d73) Excuse Me, Are You a Model? Archival footage during crash of Silk Air 185 from the AP (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OevNA4xFey4) Attribution [ edit ] This article is derived from the Citizendium article " Bonny Hicks (http://en.citizendium.org/wiki/Bonny_Hicks) " by Stephen Ewen, which is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license. Attribution to the author on the face of the article is required, per the author. This requirement is fully adhered to by simply leaving up this notice. 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1981 studio album by Grace Jones Nightclubbing Studio album (/wiki/Album) by Grace Jones (/wiki/Grace_Jones) Released 11 May 1981 Recorded 1980–1981 Studio Compass Point (/wiki/Compass_Point_Studios) , the Bahamas Genre (/wiki/Music_genre) Rock (/wiki/Rock_music) [1] (#cite_note-p4k-review-1) funk (/wiki/Funk) [1] (#cite_note-p4k-review-1) post-punk (/wiki/Post-punk) [1] (#cite_note-p4k-review-1) pop (/wiki/Pop_music) [1] (#cite_note-p4k-review-1) reggae (/wiki/Reggae) [1] (#cite_note-p4k-review-1) new wave (/wiki/New_wave_music) [1] (#cite_note-p4k-review-1) [2] (#cite_note-Uncut-2) dance (/wiki/Dance_music) [3] (#cite_note-Gardner87-3) post-disco (/wiki/Post-disco) [4] (#cite_note-Guardian-4) R&B (/wiki/Contemporary_R%26B) [5] (#cite_note-bull-5) Length 38 : 40 Label (/wiki/Record_label) Island (/wiki/Island_Records) Producer (/wiki/Record_producer) Chris Blackwell (/wiki/Chris_Blackwell) Alex Sadkin (/wiki/Alex_Sadkin) Grace Jones (/wiki/Grace_Jones) chronology Warm Leatherette (/wiki/Warm_Leatherette_(album)) (1980) Nightclubbing (1981) Living My Life (/wiki/Living_My_Life_(album)) (1982) Singles (/wiki/Single_(music)) from Nightclubbing " Demolition Man (/wiki/Demolition_Man_(song)) " Released: February 1981 " I've Seen That Face Before (Libertango) (/wiki/I%27ve_Seen_That_Face_Before_(Libertango)) " Released: May 1981 " Pull Up to the Bumper (/wiki/Pull_Up_to_the_Bumper) " Released: June 1981 " Use Me (/wiki/Use_Me_(Bill_Withers_song)) " Released: June 1981 "Feel Up" Released: July 1981 " Walking in the Rain (/wiki/Walking_in_the_Rain_(Flash_and_the_Pan_song)) " Released: October 1981 Nightclubbing is the fifth studio album (/wiki/Studio_album) by Jamaican singer and songwriter Grace Jones (/wiki/Grace_Jones) , released on 11 May 1981 by Island Records (/wiki/Island_Records) . Recorded at Compass Point Studios (/wiki/Compass_Point_Studios) with producers Alex Sadkin (/wiki/Alex_Sadkin) and Island Records' president Chris Blackwell (/wiki/Chris_Blackwell) , as well as a team of session musicians rooted by rhythm section Sly and Robbie (/wiki/Sly_and_Robbie) , the album marked her second foray into a new wave (/wiki/New_wave_music) style that blends a variety of genres, including reggae (/wiki/Reggae) , R&B (/wiki/Contemporary_R%26B) , dub (/wiki/Dub_music) and funk (/wiki/Funk) . The album has cover versions (/wiki/Cover_version) of songs by Bill Withers (/wiki/Bill_Withers) , Iggy Pop (/wiki/Iggy_Pop) , Astor Piazzolla (/wiki/Astor_Piazzolla) , and others, and original songs, three of which were co-written by Jones. The album received positive reviews upon its release, including being voted best album of the year by writers of the UK music magazine NME (/wiki/NME) , and has continued to be praised by critics over time, with some reviewers commending the singer's unique sound and organic fusion of genres. The album entered in the top 10 in five countries, and became Jones' highest-ranking record on the US Billboard (/wiki/Billboard_200) 200 (/wiki/Billboard_200) and R&B charts. Six singles were released from the album, including the hits " Pull Up to the Bumper (/wiki/Pull_Up_to_the_Bumper) " and " I've Seen That Face Before (Libertango) (/wiki/I%27ve_Seen_That_Face_Before_(Libertango)) ". Critics and scholars have noted the album's influence on popular music (/wiki/Popular_music) , citing its unique sound that has been emulated by both pop and alternative acts, and how the persona Jones adopted – deeply inspired by art and fashion – has had an enduring influence on modern female pop singers. Around the time of the album's release, she adopted her characteristic androgynous (/wiki/Androgynous) look which would become popular in fashion. Nightclubbing is now widely considered Jones' magnum opus [6] (#cite_note-6) and the record that cemented her pop icon (/wiki/Pop_icon) status. Background and production [ edit ] "When we were in the studio with Grace, there was a big picture of her – a big picture, going right across – on the wall of the studio, then she'd be standing there singing, so when we were playing and getting a groove all we could see was her. We took it on that reggae kind of trip, but always with Grace in mind." — Drummer Sly Dunbar (/wiki/Sly_Dunbar) (of Sly and Robbie (/wiki/Sly_and_Robbie) ), Fact (/wiki/Fact_(UK_magazine)) , 2014 [7] (#cite_note-factmag-7) Jones was a popular fashion model and Studio 54 (/wiki/Studio_54) habituée before starting her recording career. [8] (#cite_note-quietus-8) Her first three albums "were heavily influenced by disco (/wiki/Disco) and cemented her presence in the club scene." [9] (#cite_note-tribute-9) These records "operated around the camper (/wiki/Camp_(style)) end of the spectrum," and built a large gay (/wiki/Gay_male_culture) cult following (/wiki/Cult_following) around the singer. [8] (#cite_note-quietus-8) [10] (#cite_note-recordcollector-10) According to Pitchfork (/wiki/Pitchfork_(website)) , these albums "were fun but somewhat facile, cover-filled reflections of the druggy hedonism (/wiki/Hedonism) of the disco era". T. Cole Rachel writes: "For someone whose very image was seen as somehow deeply transgressive, Jones' music had not yet caught up." [11] (#cite_note-pitchforkwarml-11) When her 1977 rendition of Edith Piaf (/wiki/Edith_Piaf) 's " La Vie en rose (/wiki/La_Vie_en_rose#Grace_Jones_version) " was an international hit, she caught the interest of Chris Blackwell (/wiki/Chris_Blackwell) , the founder of Island Records (/wiki/Island_Records) . [8] (#cite_note-quietus-8) After Jones' 1979 album Muse (/wiki/Muse_(Grace_Jones_album)) found little success in nightclubs and charts, he took over as her producer. [12] (#cite_note-BarryWaters-12) He sought to "treat her not as a model, but to involve her as a musician", and wanted "her to feel as though she were a member of a band, and record her the way bands used to make albums, with the singer and the players doing their thing all at once." [12] (#cite_note-BarryWaters-12) Blackwell assembled a sextet of studio ringers at his Nassau (/wiki/Nassau,_Bahamas) studio, Compass Point (/wiki/Compass_Point_Studios) , pulling together a band that included Sly and Robbie (/wiki/Sly_and_Robbie) (consisting of bass guitarist Robbie Shakespeare (/wiki/Robbie_Shakespeare) and drummer Sly Dunbar (/wiki/Sly_Dunbar) ), French keyboardist Wally Badarou (/wiki/Wally_Badarou) , [13] (#cite_note-allmusic-13) guitarists Mikey Chung (/wiki/Mikey_Chung) and Barry Reynolds (/wiki/Barry_Reynolds) , and percussionist Uziah Thompson (/wiki/Uziah_Thompson) . Jones has described the group as "the united nations in the studio". [11] (#cite_note-pitchforkwarml-11) As the disco backlash (/wiki/Disco_backlash) began in earnest, Jones veered towards the contemporary new wave (/wiki/New_wave_music) style. [1] (#cite_note-p4k-review-1) Blackwell had been impressed by Black Uhuru (/wiki/Black_Uhuru) 's 1980 album Sinsemilla (/wiki/Sinsemilla_(album)) and, along with engineer Alex Sadkin (/wiki/Alex_Sadkin) , decided that Jones' new sound should take elements from that record's sonority. [7] (#cite_note-factmag-7) Besides reggae, the band also incorporated dance music. Sly Dunbar said, "We loved dance music (/wiki/Dance_music) , we'd listen to everything , because we were always working and wanting the reggae we did to move a bit forward, so anything that we could drag to it, we would bring that – as ideas, or as musicians coming to play with us." [7] (#cite_note-factmag-7) Ditching the camp quality of Jones' previous work, Blackwell realised new forms around the likes of The Pretenders (/wiki/The_Pretenders) ' " Private Life (/wiki/Private_Life_(song)) ", Roxy Music (/wiki/Roxy_Music) 's " Love Is the Drug (/wiki/Love_Is_the_Drug) " and The Normal (/wiki/The_Normal) 's " Warm Leatherette (/wiki/Warm_Leatherette) "; Ian Wade of The Quietus writes: " Nightclubbing was where all these ideas coalesced into perfection." [8] (#cite_note-quietus-8) The band Blackwell assembled later became known as the " Compass Point Allstars (/wiki/Compass_Point_Allstars) ", taking up residency in the Bahamian studio and animating hits by Tom Tom Club (/wiki/Tom_Tom_Club) , Robert Palmer (/wiki/Robert_Palmer_(singer)) , Joe Cocker (/wiki/Joe_Cocker) and Gwen Guthrie (/wiki/Gwen_Guthrie) , among others. [7] (#cite_note-factmag-7) [12] (#cite_note-BarryWaters-12) The recording sessions "moved with disarming speed and ease"; Blackwell recounts: "If Grace or the group hadn't nailed a song by the third take, it was dropped and they'd move to the next number." Although the band was initially called upon in early 1980 to work on a single album, they ended up recording far more material than could fit one LP. As a result, these sessions resulted in two studio albums: Warm Leatherette (/wiki/Warm_Leatherette_(album)) – released in 1980 – and Nightclubbing . Final overdubs and additional songs were recorded during 1981. Wally Badarou has recognised Jones' active role in the sessions, stating: "Grace was there even during most instrumental overdubbing sessions. She was a part of the sound and the spirit that came out almost from nowhere. We all knew we were in for something quite experimental." [7] (#cite_note-factmag-7) Composition [ edit ] Style [ edit ] "I wanted a rhythmic reggae bottom, aggressive rock guitar, atmospheric keyboards in the middle, and Grace on top." — Producer Chris Blackwell (/wiki/Chris_Blackwell) , The Pitchfork Review (/wiki/The_Pitchfork_Review) , 2015 [12] (#cite_note-BarryWaters-12) Continuing the orientation of Jones' previous release Warm Leatherette , Nightclubbing is a pop (/wiki/Pop_music) album that forays into new wave [1] (#cite_note-p4k-review-1) [2] (#cite_note-Uncut-2) [14] (#cite_note-14) and dance (/wiki/Dance_music) . [7] (#cite_note-factmag-7) [3] (#cite_note-Gardner87-3) A post-disco (/wiki/Post-disco) album, [4] (#cite_note-Guardian-4) It features a distinct sound that also incorporates rock (/wiki/Rock_music) , funk (/wiki/Funk) and post-punk (/wiki/Post-punk) music. [1] (#cite_note-p4k-review-1) [2] (#cite_note-Uncut-2) The Rolling Stone Album Guide (/wiki/The_Rolling_Stone_Album_Guide) (1992) reads: "Leavening their sprung riddims with a salty dash of funk, Sly and Robbie hipped Jones to rock's new wave on Warm Leatherette and Nightclubbing ." [15] (#cite_note-RSguide-15) John Daniel Bull of The Line of Best Fit (/wiki/The_Line_of_Best_Fit) felt the album "[pinpointed] the peak of [Jones'] Jamaican influences, by way of reggae rhythms blended with R&B (/wiki/Contemporary_R%26B) beats." [5] (#cite_note-bull-5) The Style Con's Erich Kessel felt the album was an influential exponent of art-pop (/wiki/Art-pop) . [16] (#cite_note-stylecon-16) Nightclubbing also incorporates elements of electro (/wiki/Electro_(music)) , and New York club music (/wiki/Club_music) . [7] (#cite_note-factmag-7) According to John Doran (/wiki/John_Doran_(writer)) of BBC Music (/wiki/BBC_Music) , Nightclubbing is a "post-punk pop" album that, "delved into the worlds of disco, reggae and funk much more successfully than most of her 'alternative' contemporaries, while still retaining a blank-eyed alienation that was more reminiscent of David Bowie (/wiki/David_Bowie) or Ian Curtis (/wiki/Ian_Curtis) than most of her peers." [17] (#cite_note-BBC-17) The influence of David Bowie (Who co-wrote the title track) was also noted by Joe Muggs of Fact (/wiki/Fact_(UK_magazine)) . [7] (#cite_note-factmag-7) The "languid reggae-influenced" tracks allowed Jones to showcase her singular vocal style, characterized by low alto (/wiki/Alto) singing and a Jamaican style of vocal delivery – "that of 'chatting' over onto tracks" – within a framework of androgyny (/wiki/Androgyny) . [3] (#cite_note-Gardner87-3) This style of delivery has been likened to that of The Velvet Underground (/wiki/The_Velvet_Underground) 's Lou Reed (/wiki/Lou_Reed) , Blondie (/wiki/Blondie_(band)) 's Debbie Harry (/wiki/Debbie_Harry) , the New York City punk scene (/wiki/Punk_scene) , and Gil Scott-Heron (/wiki/Gil_Scott-Heron) in " The Revolution Will Not Be Televised (/wiki/The_Revolution_Will_Not_Be_Televised) ". [3] (#cite_note-Gardner87-3) Pitchfork described Jones' voice as a " flat (/wiki/Flat_(music)) monotone speak-singing." [1] (#cite_note-p4k-review-1) T. Cole Rachel, writing for the same publication, argued that Jones succeeds not by the power of her voice, but by the power of her persona, writing: "As she would go on to prove in later efforts, it was the monolithic force of her personality—imperious, feral, queer (/wiki/Queer) in the truest sense of the word—that would make these songs so compelling. She is, to put it simply, impossible to ignore." [11] (#cite_note-pitchforkwarml-11) Songs [ edit ] "Feel Up" (/wiki/File:Grace_Jones_Feel_Up.ogg) Duration: 21 seconds. 0:21 Problems playing this file? See media help (/wiki/Help:Media) . The original version of " Libertango (/wiki/Libertango) " was discovered by Jones's boyfriend at the time, artist Jean-Paul Goude (/wiki/Jean-Paul_Goude) , and the video for the song was filmed on the outdoor terrace of Jones's penthouse apartment on 16th Street in New York. The song also features a verse sung in French: the text was translated for Jones by Blackwell's girlfriend, actress Nathalie Delon (/wiki/Nathalie_Delon) , for which Delon received a writing credit. [18] (#cite_note-18) Two of the album's tracks, "I've Done It Again" and " Demolition Man (/wiki/Demolition_Man_(song)) " were written specifically for Jones to record on Nightclubbing . [19] (#cite_note-NME-19) The latter song was written by Sting (/wiki/Sting_(musician)) and would also be recorded in a more uptempo style by his band the Police (/wiki/The_Police) for their album Ghost in the Machine (/wiki/Ghost_in_the_Machine_(album)) , released six months after Nightclubbing . The remaining three new compositions on the record were all co-written by Jones. " Pull Up to the Bumper (/wiki/Pull_Up_to_the_Bumper) " began as an instrumental track by the Compass Point Allstars rhythm section Sly and Robbie (credited on the track under their collective alias "Koo Koo Baya"), and provisionally called "Pour Yourself Over Me Like Peanut Butter". Jones's friend, singer Dana Mano, came up with the song's new title, which inspired the two women to write a set of suggestive lyrics for the track. [20] (#cite_note-20) Despite this, Jones denied that the lyrics were explicitly sexual, insisting that she felt the words were just written to suit the music, but stated that she was happy to accept whatever interpretation someone might put on the lyrics, saying, "I don't want to sing sweet things, though I don't mind sweetness so long as it has a little sour meaning underneath". Jones admitted that "Art Groupie" was highly autobiographical as many of her boyfriends had been artists and she was attracted to the whole art scene. [21] (#cite_note-NME19810725-21) Artwork [ edit ] Cover [ edit ] Nightclubbing ' s iconic artwork is a 1981 painted photograph (/wiki/Hand-colouring_of_photographs) titled Blue-Black in Black on Brown , created in New York by Goude. [22] (#cite_note-paperplanet-22) This was the singular image that accompanied the original LP (/wiki/LP_record) , as it "was concealed in a plain, black inner sleeve, no lyrics and with no photo on the back cover." [23] (#cite_note-polari-23) Composed by right angles, the photograph shows Jones cut to waist, bare chested, and dressed in an Armani (/wiki/Armani) man's wide shouldered suit, with an unlit cigarette aiming downward from her lip. She is shot with her signature flat top haircut (/wiki/Flat_top_haircut) and her chest bones showing; her dark skin (/wiki/Dark_skin) confers upon the image a violet (/wiki/Violet_(color)) , blue-black colour. [3] (#cite_note-Gardner87-3) [23] (#cite_note-polari-23) [24] (#cite_note-wonderingsound-24) The image is noted for its androgyny, with Jones not only "[unpicking] some of the boundaries of unconventionality, but [choosing] to confuse such boundaries." [3] (#cite_note-Gardner87-3) Rick Poynor writes: "Goude admired Jones for her mixture of beauty and threat, and the Nightclubbing portrait expresses this duality with absolute composure and no false histrionics." [25] (#cite_note-rickpoynor-25) Piers Martin of Uncut (/wiki/Uncut_(magazine)) felt the cover was "arresting", and wrote: "the indigo (/wiki/Indigo) mood, cool gaze and cigarette suggested Marlene Dietrich (/wiki/Marlene_Dietrich) , the gender-bending (/wiki/Gender-bending) a touch of Bowie (/wiki/David_Bowie) ." [2] (#cite_note-Uncut-2) In 2015, Dazed (/wiki/Dazed) included the album cover in an article dedicated to their "favourite Armani cult crossovers." Biju Belinky wrote: Although Armani became known for deconstructing the suit, removing the over-the-top padding and offering a relaxed option to formalwear in American Gigolo (/wiki/American_Gigolo) , the cover for Grace Jones' iconic 1981 album Nightclubbing plays up with the angles like nothing else before it. Hailed as a pioneer of the androgynous look, with a cigarette dangling from her mouth and a flattop haircut, complemented by the padded shoulders (/wiki/Shoulder_pads_(fashion)) of an Armani jacket, the avant-garde (/wiki/Avant-garde) singer's album cover became known for years to come. [26] (#cite_note-26) Writing for DIY (/wiki/DIY_(magazine)) , Simon Russell Beale (/wiki/Simon_Russell_Beale) listed the album cover as one of the greatest of all time, highlighting Jones' "smouldering noir-bisexuality". [27] (#cite_note-27) Graphic designer Storm Thorgerson (/wiki/Storm_Thorgerson) included the picture in his 1999 book, 100 Best Album Covers . [28] (#cite_note-28) Moreover, American Photo placed it in its list of The 30 Best Album Covers. [29] (#cite_note-americanphoto-29) NME (/wiki/NME) included it in its list of 20 Original Album Covers That Are Actually Works of Art, with the entry reading: "Can any other artist boast as many iconic album covers? Grace is a work of art herself, as are the covers for Island Life (/wiki/Island_Life) , Slave to the Rhythm (/wiki/Slave_to_the_Rhythm_(album)) and Living My Life (/wiki/Living_My_Life_(album)) , but best of all is the louche image of Nightclubbing by Jean-Paul Goude, part Tretchikoff (/wiki/Tretchikoff) 's Green Lady (/wiki/Chinese_Girl) , part the best advert for smoking you've ever seen." [30] (#cite_note-30) Time Out (/wiki/Time_Out_(magazine)) listed the image as one of the "sexiest album covers of all time", with Brent DiCrescenzo writing: "[Grace Jones] was a work of art, a statue." [31] (#cite_note-31) According to i-D , "it was a series of consistently stellar album artwork that helped propel [the singer] from musician to icon." [32] (#cite_note-idmag-32) The artwork was held in display at the Padiglione d'Arte Contemporanea (/wiki/Padiglione_d%27Arte_Contemporanea) in Milan (/wiki/Milan) , Italy, as part of the 2016 So Far So Goude exhibition, focused on the French artist. [33] (#cite_note-33) Video [ edit ] According to Barry Waters of The Pitchfork Review (/wiki/The_Pitchfork_Review) , "Jones' singular appearance and meticulously crafted presentation made her a natural fit for the burgeoning music video (/wiki/Music_video) medium, especially in its early, experimental days." [12] (#cite_note-BarryWaters-12) Jean-Paul Goude directed the music videos for " I've Seen That Face Before (Libertango) (/wiki/I%27ve_Seen_That_Face_Before_(Libertango)) " and "Pull Up to the Bumper", as well as the celebrated 1982 VHS (/wiki/VHS) release A One Man Show (/wiki/A_One_Man_Show) . The latter – a montage of still photography, concert footage and music videos – "asserted [Jones] as an astute visual artist" and was nominated for Best Long Form Music Video (/wiki/Grammy_Award_for_Best_Music_Film) at the 26th Annual Grammy Awards (/wiki/26th_Annual_Grammy_Awards) . [12] (#cite_note-BarryWaters-12) [34] (#cite_note-villagevoice16-34) Nelson George, reviewing the release for Billboard (/wiki/Billboard_(magazine)) in early 1983, called it "one of the more fascinating and defiantly visual concert videos (/wiki/Concert_video) yet produced." [35] (#cite_note-billboardgeorge83-35) According to Ernest Hardy of CraveOnline (/wiki/CraveOnline) , the film "seamlessly blends cabaret (/wiki/Cabaret) , performance art (/wiki/Performance_art) and underground (/wiki/Underground_culture) nightclub cool." [36] (#cite_note-36) Release [ edit ] Nightclubbing became Jones' chart breakthrough and remains one of the greatest commercial triumphs of her entire career. It entered the top five in no less than four countries, and became the singer's highest-charting record on the US Billboard mainstream albums and R&B charts. The album brought Jones from being a former disco diva with a loyal cult following but dropping sales figures to an international star with mainstream chart success. It later formed the basis of her groundbreaking concept tour A One Man Show (/wiki/A_One_Man_Show) . Universal Music Group re-released the album on vinyl in 2009. [37] (#cite_note-37) Release of a two-disc deluxe set, containing most of the 12" single versions of singles, plus two unreleased tracks from the Nightclubbing sessions, occurred on 28 April 2014, and Jones enjoyed a UK top 50 chart placing the following week – her first since 2008. To promote the album, Jones appeared on various TV shows in 1981, including the French Palmarès , [38] (#cite_note-38) the Spanish Esta noche , [39] (#cite_note-39) and Aktuelle Schaubude in West Germany (/wiki/West_Germany) . [40] (#cite_note-40) Singles [ edit ] The lead single from the album was "Demolition Man". The single was not a commercial success and did not chart, although would later become one of Jones' signature songs. "I've Seen That Face Before (Libertango)" was released as the second single and became one of the most commercially successful songs in Jones' repertoire. It secured top 20 positions in several European countries and became another signature song for Jones. The R&B-dance track "Pull Up to the Bumper" was a quick follow-up to "Libertango". It met with a great success on the US club market, but turned out a modest hit in Europe upon original release. The song would re-emerge in Europe in 1985 as a major success, especially in the UK, where backed with "La Vie en rose" it became one of Jones' highest-charting singles in that country. " Use Me (/wiki/Use_Me_(Bill_Withers_song)) " and "Feel Up" were then released as singles, but were unsuccessful in the charts. The final single off Nightclubbing , " Walking in the Rain (/wiki/Walking_in_the_Rain_(Flash_and_the_Pan_song)) ", was a minor chart success. Critical reception [ edit ] Professional ratings Review scores Source Rating AllMusic (/wiki/AllMusic) [13] (#cite_note-allmusic-13) Christgau's Record Guide (/wiki/Christgau%27s_Record_Guide:_The_%2780s) B− [41] (#cite_note-Christgau-41) Mojo (/wiki/Mojo_(magazine)) [42] (#cite_note-Mojo-42) Pitchfork (/wiki/Pitchfork_(website)) 9.0/10 [1] (#cite_note-p4k-review-1) Q (/wiki/Q_(magazine)) [43] (#cite_note-Q-43) Record Collector (/wiki/Record_Collector) [10] (#cite_note-recordcollector-10) Record Mirror (/wiki/Record_Mirror) [44] (#cite_note-recordmirror-44) The Rolling Stone Album Guide (/wiki/The_Rolling_Stone_Album_Guide) [15] (#cite_note-RSguide-15) Smash Hits (/wiki/Smash_Hits) 8/10 [45] (#cite_note-smashhits-45) Uncut (/wiki/Uncut_(magazine)) 9/10 [2] (#cite_note-Uncut-2) In the UK Adrian Thrills of NME said, "I spent an otherwise-miserable weekend afternoon with the sound of Grace swirling around my little earphones, grooving on songs effortlessly sung but put together with a jeweller's eye for detail", and stated that the musicians "combine to etch out a shifting, soulful surface, an exotic ice-water backdrop for Grace's vocal veneer", noting that "the only times Grace seems ill-at-ease are as she swops Trenchtown (/wiki/Trenchtown) patois with, presumably, the sharp-lipped Sly and then tries to rock out on Sting's 'Demolition Man ' ". [19] (#cite_note-NME-19) Roz Reines of Melody Maker (/wiki/Melody_Maker) called it "an album with something for everyone: reggae, electronics, disco, blues – even a snatch of salsa funk. The incredible thing is that it all gels together so well – the common denominator is the danceability, which lasts all the way through: changes in tempo and pace only help to sustain the energy level." [46] (#cite_note-MM-46) Deanne Pearson of Smash Hits (/wiki/Smash_Hits) said that Jones' voice has "neither range nor power", but "the arrangements and production almost make up for this." [45] (#cite_note-smashhits-45) Record Mirror (/wiki/Record_Mirror) critic Simon Ludgate found that Jones transcends her vocal limitations through "her character and sense of the surreal". [44] (#cite_note-recordmirror-44) Andy Kellman of AllMusic (/wiki/AllMusic) praised the album in a retrospective review, stating: "Sly & Robbie provide ideal backdrops for Jones yet again, casting a brisk but not bristly sheen over buoyant structures. Never before and never since has a precisely chipped block of ore been so seductive." [13] (#cite_note-allmusic-13) Mark Coleman wrote in The Rolling Stone Album Guide that Sly and Robbie's introduction of new wave rock to Jones and the "throbbing polyrhythmic" covers of rock songs suited her better than the Edith Piaf-meets- Barry White (/wiki/Barry_White) routines" of her records. [15] (#cite_note-RSguide-15) Robert Christgau (/wiki/Robert_Christgau) was less enthusiastic. He was unmoved by Jones' own songs and said while the covers on Warm Leatherette were superior to the originals simply because of her "weird force of personality", she could not match "Use Me" and the title track. [41] (#cite_note-Christgau-41) Nightclubbing continued to gather favorable reviews with the release of the deluxe edition in 2014. Andy Beta from Pitchfork labeled the album's reissue as "Best New Reissue", describing the album as "the record that further cemented her iconic status in pop culture". He also stated: "She treats each cover not as a singer tackling a song, but as an actor inhabiting the skin of a role". [1] (#cite_note-p4k-review-1) Mojo (/wiki/Mojo_(magazine)) called it "probably the greatest of Grace Jones' Compass Point trio". [42] (#cite_note-Mojo-42) Uncut ' s Piers Martin called Nightclubbing "the album that came to define Jones as the complete performer, in her own way, as singer, muse, actress, alien and androgyne. Its sound, a sublime mix of reggae, funk, new wave and disco, was as arresting as its cover image... No one had seen or heard anything quite like this". [2] (#cite_note-Uncut-2) In Record Collector (/wiki/Record_Collector) Kris Needs (/wiki/Kris_Needs) said that " Nightclubbing still sounds like nothing else released during the 80s, though its colossal influence repeatedly reveals itself". [10] (#cite_note-recordcollector-10) John Harris (/wiki/John_Harris_(critic)) of Q (/wiki/Q_(magazine)) wrote that "the music on Nightclubbing is as stripped-down and full of space as Jones's froideur demanded. Then again, when it evokes more emotional qualities, it also triumphs." [43] (#cite_note-Q-43) Legacy [ edit ] Jones performing at the West Coast Blues & Roots Festival (/wiki/West_Coast_Blues_%26_Roots_Festival) , 2011. Nightclubbing 's distinctive amalgamation of rock, funk, post-punk, pop and reggae set Jones apart from other musical acts of the 1980s. It is considered one of the early convergences of "fashion, art, and music". [16] (#cite_note-stylecon-16) According to Pitchfork ' s Andy Beta, it "altered the face of modern pop". He further argued that the album's musical and visual influence is easily palpable in the musical landscape of the 21st century, specially among female musicians such as Lady Gaga (/wiki/Lady_Gaga) , Rihanna (/wiki/Rihanna) , Nicki Minaj (/wiki/Nicki_Minaj) , M.I.A. (/wiki/M.I.A._(rapper)) , Grimes (/wiki/Grimes_(musician)) and FKA Twigs (/wiki/FKA_Twigs) , among others. [1] (#cite_note-p4k-review-1) Other acts influenced by the record include Róisín Murphy (/wiki/R%C3%B3is%C3%ADn_Murphy) , Janelle Monáe (/wiki/Janelle_Mon%C3%A1e) , Azealia Banks (/wiki/Azealia_Banks) and Adam Lambert (/wiki/Adam_Lambert) . [16] (#cite_note-stylecon-16) Beyond pop music, the template set by Jones and her Compass Point backing band was also influential to alternative music (/wiki/Alternative_rock) , including Massive Attack (/wiki/Massive_Attack) , Todd Terje (/wiki/Todd_Terje) , Gorillaz (/wiki/Gorillaz) , Hot Chip (/wiki/Hot_Chip) , and LCD Soundsystem (/wiki/LCD_Soundsystem) – who "emulate those rubbery yet taut grooves of Sly & Robbie and cohorts". [1] (#cite_note-p4k-review-1) In Q , John Harris wrote: "The fact that this music was first released 33 years ago beggars belief: it showcases great minds alighting on the future, and points the way to Madonna (/wiki/Madonna) , Björk (/wiki/Bj%C3%B6rk) , Lady Gaga, Gorillaz, M.I.A. and more." [43] (#cite_note-Q-43) According to Molly Beauchemin, Jones "pioneered the way for Shamir (/wiki/Shamir_(musician)) , Stromae (/wiki/Stromae) , and countless other dance mavericks of today – not just with her bewitching candor but through her use of androgynous innuendo". [12] (#cite_note-BarryWaters-12) Polari Magazine considered Nightclubbing to be "a defining moment in the history of pop music". [23] (#cite_note-polari-23) The album further cemented Jones' pop icon (/wiki/Pop_icon) status. [1] (#cite_note-p4k-review-1) According to Erich Kessel, "[the singer's] performances were a source of rich critiques on race, gender (/wiki/Gender) , and blackness." [16] (#cite_note-stylecon-16) Her pioneering androgynous (/wiki/Androgynous) aesthetic – conceived alongside Jean-Paul Goude – had a strong impact on the pop culture (/wiki/Popular_culture) of the 1980s; for example, it was a precursor to Annie Lennox (/wiki/Annie_Lennox) 's persona. [1] (#cite_note-p4k-review-1) [3] (#cite_note-Gardner87-3) According to Abigail Gardner, "Jones was an androgynous audiovisual experience, one who sat comfortably within the context of early 1980s pop, where image had become even more central to pop performance through the emergence of MTV (/wiki/MTV) ." [3] (#cite_note-Gardner87-3) She further argued that the singer "problematises ideas of black feminine in performance art that contributed to a reconceptualisation of Afrocentric (/wiki/Afrocentrism) culture and identity." [47] (#cite_note-Gardner89-47) Miriam Kershaw positioned Jones "not as a singer or a diva, but as a piece of art", and argued that she "worked to destabilise racist and sexist clichés as she charted a dynamic course through the history of the Black diaspora (/wiki/Black_diaspora) , to celebrate its vibrant contemporary form." [47] (#cite_note-Gardner89-47) The singer's gender-bending (/wiki/Gender-bending) and unrestrained sexuality also won the acclaim of the gay community (/wiki/Gay_community) , [12] (#cite_note-BarryWaters-12) [17] (#cite_note-BBC-17) being included in Out (/wiki/Out_(magazine)) 's "The 100 Greatest, Gayest Albums of All Time" and Attitude (/wiki/Attitude_(magazine)) ' s "Top 50 Gay Albums of All Time". [ citation needed ] i-D (/wiki/I-D) writes: "Jones transcended definition in almost every realm of her life. She is often referred to as a queer icon. [...] She rejects all labels of sexuality, and her musical output is similarly fluid, switching from pop and disco to dub and reggae without hesitation." [32] (#cite_note-idmag-32) In The Village Voice (/wiki/The_Village_Voice) ' s Pazz & Jop (/wiki/Pazz_%26_Jop) critics' poll of 1981, Nightclubbing placed at number 31, while "Pull Up to the Bumper" was voted the year's 11th best single. [48] (#cite_note-48) It also appeared in the year-end lists of Sounds (/wiki/Sounds_(magazine)) , [49] (#cite_note-soundslist-49) Rockerilla (/wiki/Rockerilla) , [ citation needed ] OOR (/wiki/OOR) , [ citation needed ] The Face (/wiki/The_Face_(magazine)) , [ citation needed ] Melody Maker [ citation needed ] and NME – the latter considering it the best album of 1981. [50] (#cite_note-50) Slant Magazine (/wiki/Slant_Magazine) listed Nightclubbing as the 40th best album of the 1980s, with Henderson writing it "performs double duty, building up the singer's legend even as it makes attempts at deconstructing it." [51] (#cite_note-slantbest-51) NME included the album in its list of The 500 Greatest Albums of All Time (/wiki/NME%27s_The_500_Greatest_Albums_of_All_Time) , with its entry stating: "A glimpse into the sordid disco depravities behind the velvet rope at Studio 54, Nightclubbing and its standout smash "Pull Up to the Bumper" shunted new wave, reggae and disco firmly into the seductive neon '80s with a single arse/car metaphor." [52] (#cite_note-52) The Guardian (/wiki/The_Guardian) listed Nightclubbing as one of the "1000 albums to hear before you die". [53] (#cite_note-1000guardian-53) Accolades [ edit ] Publication Country Accolade Year Rank Studio Brussels (/wiki/Studio_Brussel) Belgium The 500 Greatest Albums of All Time, Nominations [ citation needed ] 2015 * Christophe Brault France Top 20 Albums by Year 1964–2004 [ citation needed ] 2006 9 Gilles Verlant (/wiki/Gilles_Verlant) 300+ Best Albums in the History of Rock [ citation needed ] 2013 * Rock & Folk (/wiki/Rock_%26_Folk) The 250 Best Albums from 1966 to 1991 [ citation needed ] 1991 * Laut Germany Milestones [ citation needed ] — * Musik Express / Sounds The 50 Best Albums from the 80s [ citation needed ] 2003 24 RoRoRo Rock-Lexicon Most Recommended Albums [ citation needed ] 2003 * Tempo The 100 Best Albums from the 80's [ citation needed ] 1989 17 Giannis Petridis Greece 2004 of the Best Albums of the Century [ citation needed ] 2003 * Hot Press (/wiki/Hot_Press) Ireland The 100 Best Albums of All Time [ citation needed ] 1989 59 Rockerilla (/wiki/Rockerilla) Italy Albums of the Year [ citation needed ] 1981 13 OOR (/wiki/OOR) Netherlands 12 Adresseavisen (/wiki/Adresseavisen) Norway The 100 (+23) Best Albums of All Time [ citation needed ] 1995 87 Eggen & Kartvedt The Guide to the 100 Important Rock Albums [ citation needed ] 1999 * Panorama The 30 Best Albums of the Year 1970–98 [ citation needed ] 1999 15 Attitude (/wiki/Attitude_(magazine)) United Kingdom Top 50 Gay Albums of All Time [ citation needed ] — 14 The Face (/wiki/The_Face_(magazine)) Albums of the Year [ citation needed ] 1981 * GQ (/wiki/GQ) The 100 Coolest Albums in the World Right Now! [ citation needed ] 2005 7 The Guardian (/wiki/The_Guardian) 1000 Albums to Hear Before You Die [ citation needed ] 2007 * Melody Maker (/wiki/Melody_Maker) Albums of the Year [ citation needed ] 1981 9 Mojo (/wiki/Mojo_(magazine)) The 80 Greatest Albums from the 80s [ citation needed ] 2007 * Gary Mulholland 261 Greatest Albums Since Punk and Disco [ citation needed ] 2006 * Muzik (/wiki/Muzik) Top 50 Dance Albums of All Time [ citation needed ] 2002 34 NME (/wiki/NME) Albums of the Year [ citation needed ] 1981 1 The 500 Greatest Albums of All Time (/wiki/NME%27s_The_500_Greatest_Albums_of_All_Time) [ citation needed ] 2013 211 Out (/wiki/Out_(magazine)) United States The 100 Greatest, Gayest Albums [ citation needed ] 2008 91 Slant Magazine (/wiki/Slant_Magazine) The 100 Best Albums of the 1980s [ citation needed ] 2012 40 Sounds (/wiki/Sounds_(magazine)) Albums of the Year [49] (#cite_note-soundslist-49) 1981 * The Village Voice (/wiki/The_Village_Voice) Pazz & Jop (/wiki/Pazz_%26_Jop) [ citation needed ] 1981 31 (*) designates lists that are unordered. Track listing [ edit ] Side one No. Title Writer(s) Length 1. " Walking in the Rain (/wiki/Walking_in_the_Rain_(Flash_and_the_Pan_song)) " Harry Vanda (/wiki/Harry_Vanda) , George Young (/wiki/George_Young_(rock_musician)) 4:18 2. " Pull Up to the Bumper (/wiki/Pull_Up_to_the_Bumper) " Grace Jones (/wiki/Grace_Jones) , Koo Koo Baya (/wiki/Sly_and_Robbie) , Dana Mano 4:41 3. " Use Me (/wiki/Use_Me_(Bill_Withers_song)) " Bill Withers (/wiki/Bill_Withers) 5:04 4. " Nightclubbing (/wiki/Nightclubbing_(song)) " David Bowie (/wiki/David_Bowie) , Iggy Pop (/wiki/Iggy_Pop) 5:06 Side two No. Title Writer(s) Length 5. "Art Groupie" Jones, Barry Reynolds (/wiki/Barry_Reynolds) 2:39 6. " I've Seen That Face Before (Libertango) (/wiki/I%27ve_Seen_That_Face_Before_(Libertango)) " Astor Piazzolla (/wiki/Astor_Piazzolla) , Reynolds, Dennis Wilkey, Nathalie Delon (/wiki/Nathalie_Delon) 4:30 7. "Feel Up" Jones 4:03 8. " Demolition Man (/wiki/Demolition_Man_(song)) " Sting (/wiki/Sting_(musician)) 4:03 9. "I've Done It Again" Reynolds, Marianne Faithfull (/wiki/Marianne_Faithfull) 3:51 2014 deluxe edition bonus disc No. Title Writer(s) Length 1. "Demolition Man" (12" version) Sting (/wiki/Sting_(musician)) 4:58 2. "Pull Up to the Bumper" (12" version) Grace Jones, Koo Koo Baya, Dana Mano 5:45 3. "I've Seen That Face Before (Libertango)" (12" version) Astor Piazzolla (/wiki/Astor_Piazzolla) , Barry Reynolds (/wiki/Barry_Reynolds) , Dennis Wilkey, Nathalie Delon (/wiki/Nathalie_Delon) 5:38 4. "Walking in the Rain" (12" version) Harry Vanda (/wiki/Harry_Vanda) , George Young (/wiki/George_Young_(rock_musician)) 7:25 5. "Pull Up to the Bumper" (remixed version) Grace Jones, Koo Koo Baya, Dana Mano 7:15 6. "Use Me" (long version) Bill Withers (/wiki/Bill_Withers) 6:10 7. "Pull Up to the Bumper" (US party version) Grace Jones, Koo Koo Baya, Dana Mano 5:00 8. "Feel Up" (extended version) Grace Jones 6:15 9. "Pull Up to the Bumper" (1985 remix) Grace Jones, Koo Koo Baya, Dana Mano 6:24 10. "Peanut Butter" (Performed by Compass Point All-Stars) Grace Jones, Koo Koo Baya, Dana Mano 5:10 11. "If You Wanna Be My Lover" (Previously unreleased) 6:35 12. " Me! I Disconnect from You (/wiki/Replicas_(album)) " (Previously unreleased) Gary Numan (/wiki/Gary_Numan) 5:33 13. "Esta Cara Me es Conocida" (Spanish version of "I've Seen That Face Before (Libertango)") Astor Piazzolla (/wiki/Astor_Piazzolla) , Barry Reynolds (/wiki/Barry_Reynolds) , Dennis Wilkey, Nathalie Delon (/wiki/Nathalie_Delon) 4:32 The two-disc deluxe remastered version states that the writer(s) of "If You Wanna Be My Lover" is unknown. Personnel [ edit ] Credits adapted from Nightclubbing' s liner notes. [54] (#cite_note-liner-54) Musicians Wally Badarou (/wiki/Wally_Badarou) – keyboards Monte Browne – rhythm guitar Mikey Chung (/wiki/Mikey_Chung) – guitar Masai Delon – vocals Tyrone Downie (/wiki/Tyrone_Downie) – keyboards, vocals Sly Dunbar (/wiki/Sly_Dunbar) – drums, syndrums Jack Emblow (/wiki/Jack_Emblow) – accordion Grace Jones (/wiki/Grace_Jones) – vocals, backing vocals Barry Reynolds (/wiki/Barry_Reynolds) – guitar Jess Roden (/wiki/Jess_Roden) – vocals Robbie Shakespeare (/wiki/Robbie_Shakespeare) – bass guitar Mel Speller – percussion, vocals Uziah Thompson (/wiki/Uziah_Thompson) – percussion Production Chris Blackwell (/wiki/Chris_Blackwell) , Alex Sadkin (/wiki/Alex_Sadkin) – production Ted Jensen (/wiki/Ted_Jensen) – mastering Charts [ edit ] Weekly charts [ edit ] Weekly chart performance for Nightclubbing Chart (1981) Peak position Australian Albums ( Kent Music Report (/wiki/Kent_Music_Report) ) [55] (#cite_note-55) 19 Dutch Albums ( Album Top 100 (/wiki/Dutch_Album_Top_100) ) [56] (#cite_note-ac_Netherlands_Grace_Jones-56) 2 German Albums ( Offizielle Top 100 (/wiki/GfK_Entertainment_charts) ) [57] (#cite_note-ac_Germany4_Grace_Jones-57) 8 New Zealand Albums ( RMNZ (/wiki/Official_New_Zealand_Music_Chart) ) [58] (#cite_note-ac_New_Zealand_Grace_Jones-58) 3 Norwegian Albums ( VG-lista (/wiki/VG-lista) ) [59] (#cite_note-ac_Norway_Grace_Jones-59) 19 Spanish Albums ( AFYVE (/wiki/Productores_de_M%C3%BAsica_de_Espa%C3%B1a) ) [60] (#cite_note-60) 20 Swedish Albums ( Sverigetopplistan (/wiki/Sverigetopplistan) ) [61] (#cite_note-ac_Sweden_Grace_Jones-61) 4 UK Albums (/wiki/UK_Albums_Chart) ( OCC (/wiki/Official_Charts_Company) ) [62] (#cite_note-UKI-62) 35 US Billboard 200 (/wiki/Billboard_200) [63] (#cite_note-ac_Billboard200_Grace_Jones-63) 32 US Top R&B/Hip-Hop Albums (/wiki/Top_R%26B/Hip-Hop_Albums) ( Billboard ) [64] (#cite_note-ac_BillboardRandBHipHop_Grace_Jones-64) 9 Weekly chart performance for Nightclubbing (2014 deluxe edition) Chart (2014) Peak position Belgian Albums ( Ultratop (/wiki/Ultratop) Flanders) [65] (#cite_note-ac_Flanders_Grace_Jones-65) 66 Belgian Albums ( Ultratop (/wiki/Ultratop) Wallonia) [66] (#cite_note-ac_Wallonia_Grace_Jones-66) 115 UK Albums (/wiki/UK_Albums_Chart) ( OCC (/wiki/Official_Charts_Company) ) [67] (#cite_note-UK2014-67) 46 Year-end charts [ edit ] Year-end chart performance for Nightclubbing Chart (1981) Position Australian Albums (Kent Music Report) [68] (#cite_note-68) 83 Dutch Albums (Album Top 100) [69] (#cite_note-69) 37 German Albums (Offizielle Top 100) [70] (#cite_note-70) 64 New Zealand Albums (RMNZ) [71] (#cite_note-71) 41 Chart (1982) Position New Zealand Albums (RMNZ) [72] (#cite_note-72) 27 Chart (1983) Position New Zealand Albums (RMNZ) [73] (#cite_note-73) 35 Certifications and sales [ edit ] Certifications for Nightclubbing Region Certification Certified units (/wiki/List_of_music_recording_certifications) /sales Australia ( ARIA (/wiki/Australian_Recording_Industry_Association) ) [74] (#cite_note-AustraliaalbumCertRef-74) Platinum 70,000 ^ Germany ( BVMI (/wiki/Bundesverband_Musikindustrie) ) [75] (#cite_note-GermanyGrace_JonesNight_ClubbingalbumCertRef-75) Gold 250,000 ^ New Zealand ( RMNZ (/wiki/Recorded_Music_NZ) ) [76] (#cite_note-New_ZealandGrace_JonesNightclubbingalbumCertRef-76) Platinum 15,000 ^ United States — 400,000 [77] (#cite_note-gracesalesPN-77) ^ Shipments figures based on certification alone. Release history [ edit ] Region Date Format(s) Label Worldwide 11 May 1981 LP, Cassette Island (/wiki/Island_Records) Yugoslavia Jugoton (/wiki/Jugoton) Europe 1989 CD Island Masters (/wiki/Island_Masters) Worldwide 1990 Island 28 April 2014 2-CD deluxe edition, Blu-ray audio See also [ edit ] Pop music portal (/wiki/Portal:Pop_music) 1980s portal (/wiki/Portal:1980s) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) 1980s in music (/wiki/1980s_in_music) Music of the United Kingdom (1980s) (/wiki/Music_of_the_United_Kingdom_(1980s)) Music of Jamaica (/wiki/Music_of_Jamaica) 1980s in Western fashion (/wiki/1980s_in_Western_fashion) Media studies (/wiki/Media_studies) Reggae fusion (/wiki/Reggae_fusion) Gay icon (/wiki/Gay_icon) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p Beta, Andy (May 1, 2014). "Grace Jones: Nightclubbing" (https://pitchfork.com/reviews/albums/19222-grace-jones-nightclubbing-deluxe-edition/) . Pitchfork (/wiki/Pitchfork_(magazine)) . Retrieved October 3, 2023 . a hybrid that amalgamated rock, funk, post-punk, pop and reggae. ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f Martin, Piers (June 2014). "Grace Jones – (https://web.archive.org/web/20140714181805/http://www.uncut.co.uk/grace-jones-nightclubbing-deluxe-edition-review) Nightclubbing (Deluxe Edition)" (https://web.archive.org/web/20140714181805/http://www.uncut.co.uk/grace-jones-nightclubbing-deluxe-edition-review) . Uncut (/wiki/Uncut_(magazine)) . No. 205. London. p. 90. Archived from the original (http://www.uncut.co.uk/grace-jones-nightclubbing-deluxe-edition-review) on 14 July 2014 . Retrieved 9 June 2014 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h Gardner, 2012. p.87 ^ Jump up to: a b Vine, Richard (15 June 2011). "Grace Jones pulls up to the bumper" (https://www.theguardian.com/music/2011/jun/15/grace-jones-bumper) . theguardian.com (/wiki/The_Guardian) . Retrieved 30 August 2016 . ^ Jump up to: a b Bull, John Daniel (29 April 2014). "Grace Jones – Nightclubbing [Deluxe Edition]" (http://www.thelineofbestfit.com/reviews/albums/grace-jones-nightclubbing-deluxe-edition) . The Line of Best Fit (/wiki/The_Line_of_Best_Fit) . Retrieved 4 August 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "3333. "Walking In The Rain" by Grace Jones" (https://web.archive.org/web/20140221224202/http://sadclownrep.com/7479/3333-walking-in-the-rain-by-grace-jones/) . sadclownrep.com. Archived from the original (http://sadclownrep.com/7479/3333-walking-in-the-rain-by-grace-jones/) on 21 February 2014 . Retrieved 19 August 2012 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h Muggs, Joe (2 May 2014). "I've Seen That Face Before: looking back on Grace Jones' iconic Nightclubbing with the people who made it happen" (http://www.factmag.com/2014/05/02/grace-jones-nightclubbing-interview/) . Fact (/wiki/Fact_(UK_magazine)) . Retrieved 30 July 2016 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d Wade, Ian (12 May 2014). "Grace Jones – Nightclubbing (Reissue)" (http://thequietus.com/articles/15230-grace-jones-nightclubbing-reissue-review) . The Quietus (/wiki/The_Quietus) . Retrieved 30 July 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-tribute_9-0) Nelson, Terry (9 May 2016). "TRIBUTE: Celebrating 35 Years of Grace Jones' 'Nightclubbing' (http://www.albumism.com/features/celebrating-35-years-of-grace-jones-nightclubbing) " (http://www.albumism.com/features/celebrating-35-years-of-grace-jones-nightclubbing) . Albumism . Retrieved 30 July 2016 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Needs, Kris (/wiki/Kris_Needs) (June 2014). "Grace Jones – (http://recordcollectormag.com/reviews/nightclubbing-deluxe-edition) Nightclubbing : Deluxe Edition" (http://recordcollectormag.com/reviews/nightclubbing-deluxe-edition) . Record Collector (/wiki/Record_Collector) . No. 428. London. pp. 90–91 . Retrieved 5 February 2018 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Rachel, T. Cole (26 June 2016). "Grace Jones: Warm Leatherette" (https://pitchfork.com/reviews/albums/22014-warm-leatherette/) . Pitchfork (/wiki/Pitchfork_(website)) . Retrieved 18 August 2016 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h Waters, Barry (25 August 2015). "As Much As I Can, As Black As I Am: The Queer History of Grace Jones" (https://pitchfork.com/features/from-the-pitchfork-review/9708-as-much-as-i-can-as-black-as-i-am-the-queer-history-of-grace-jones/) . The Pitchfork Review (/wiki/The_Pitchfork_Review) . Retrieved 30 July 2016 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Kellman, Andy. " (https://www.allmusic.com/album/nightclubbing-mw0000650329) Nightclubbing – Grace Jones" (https://www.allmusic.com/album/nightclubbing-mw0000650329) . AllMusic (/wiki/AllMusic) . Retrieved 1 May 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) Robbins, Ira A., ed. (June 1983). The Trouser Press Guide to New Wave Records . Charles Scribner's Sons. p. 156 (https://archive.org/details/trouserpressguid00robbi/page/156) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0684179445 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Coleman, Mark (1992). "Grace Jones". In DeCurtis, Anthony (/wiki/Anthony_DeCurtis) ; Henke, James; George-Warren, Holly (eds.). The Rolling Stone Album Guide (3rd ed.). Random House (/wiki/Random_House) . pp. 378–79. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0679737294 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d Kessel, Eric (8 May 2014). "Art-Pop before 'Art Pop (https://web.archive.org/web/20180101095730/http://www.thestylecon.com/2014/05/08/art-pop-art-pop/) " . The Style Con. Archived from the original (http://www.thestylecon.com/2014/05/08/art-pop-art-pop/) on 1 January 2018 . Retrieved 5 August 2016 . ^ Jump up to: a b Doran, John (2010). "Grace Clubbing – Nightclubbing review" (https://www.bbc.co.uk/music/reviews/vzd3/) . BBC (/wiki/BBC) . Retrieved 3 August 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) Jones, Grace (/wiki/Grace_Jones) ; Morley, Paul (/wiki/Paul_Morley) (2015). I'll Never Write My Memoirs . New York, USA: Simon & Schuster (/wiki/Simon_%26_Schuster) . pp. 215–17. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-47113-521-7 . ^ Jump up to: a b Thrills, Adrian (2 May 1981). "Perfect made to measure madame". NME (/wiki/NME) . London. p. 33. ^ (#cite_ref-20) Jones; Morley (2015). p. 226. ^ (#cite_ref-NME19810725_21-0) Salewicz, Chris (25 July 1981). "In Between the Bumpers". NME . pp. 48–49. ^ (#cite_ref-paperplanet_22-0) Song, Sandra (5 October 2015). "Welcome to Planet Grace Jones" (http://www.papermag.com/welcome-to-planet-grace-jones-1427654126.html) . Paper (/wiki/Paper_(magazine)) . Retrieved 4 August 2016 . ^ Jump up to: a b c "Grace Jones' Nightclubbing: A Celebration" (http://www.polarimagazine.com/lgbt-history-month/grace-jones-nightclubbing-celebration/) . Polari Magazine. 17 February 2014 . Retrieved 4 August 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-wonderingsound_24-0) Walters, Barry (4 April 2014). " (https://web.archive.org/web/20160819002232/http://www.wonderingsound.com/feature/grace-jones-nightclubbing-reissue/) 'Nightclubbing' Again: Revisiting Grace Jones's Masterpiece" (https://web.archive.org/web/20160819002232/http://www.wonderingsound.com/feature/grace-jones-nightclubbing-reissue/) . Wondering Sound (/wiki/Wondering_Sound) . Archived from the original (http://www.wonderingsound.com/feature/grace-jones-nightclubbing-reissue/) on 19 August 2016 . Retrieved 5 August 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-rickpoynor_25-0) Poynor, Rick (15 September 2015). "Exposure: Grace Jones by Jean-Paul Goude" (http://designobserver.com/feature/exposure-grace-jones-by-jean-paul-goude/39032/) . Design Observer (/wiki/Design_Observer) . Retrieved 5 August 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-26) Belinky, Biju (2015). "Charting Armani's cult crossovers" (http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/24635/1/charting-armani-s-cult-crossovers) . Dazed (/wiki/Dazed) . Retrieved 5 August 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-27) Tesco, Lucy (19 October 2010). "Top Five Album Covers: Rough Trade" (https://diymag.com/archive/top-five-album-covers-rough-trade) . DIY (/wiki/DIY_(magazine)) . Retrieved 5 August 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-28) Thorgerson, Storm (23 September 1999). 100 Best Album Covers . DK. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0751307061 . ^ (#cite_ref-americanphoto_29-0) Crager, Jack (November 2008). "The 30 Best Album Covers" (https://books.google.com/books?id=dtzlm4wKIyoC&pg=PA30) . American Photo . Vol. 19, no. 6. p. 30. ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 1046-8986 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/1046-8986) . Retrieved 5 August 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-30) "20 Original Album Covers That Are Actually Works of Art" (https://www.nme.com/photos/20-original-album-covers-that-are-actually-works-of-art/371310#/photo/1) . NME (/wiki/NME) . 5 March 2015 . Retrieved 5 August 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-31) DiCrescenzo, Brent (28 May 2014). "The 45 sexiest album covers of all time" (https://www.timeout.com/chicago/music/the-45-sexiest-album-covers-of-all-time) . Time Out (/wiki/Time_Out_(magazine)) . Retrieved 5 August 2016 . ^ Jump up to: a b Hall, Jake (21 April 2016). "exploring the complicated relationship between jean-paul goude and grace jones" (https://web.archive.org/web/20160726172709/http://i-d.vice.com/en_us/article/exploring-the-complicated-relationship-between-jean-paul-goude-and-grace-jones) . i-D (/wiki/I-D) . Archived from the original (https://i-d.vice.com/en_us/article/exploring-the-complicated-relationship-between-jean-paul-goude-and-grace-jones) on 26 July 2016 . Retrieved 8 August 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-33) Stansfield, Ted (2016). "Inside Jean-Paul Goude's new exhibition" (http://www.dazeddigital.com/photography/article/30790/1/inside-jean-paul-goude-s-new-exhibition) . Dazed (/wiki/Dazed) . Retrieved 5 August 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-villagevoice16_34-0) Anderson, Melissa (February 2, 2016). "Grace and Love: 'A One Man Show' Brings Back '82, and Wendy Clarke Asks the Big Questions" (http://www.villagevoice.com/film/grace-and-love-a-one-man-show-brings-back-82-and-wendy-clarke-asks-the-big-questions-8225724) . The Village Voice (/wiki/The_Village_Voice) . The Village Voice LLC . Retrieved November 20, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-billboardgeorge83_35-0) George, Nelson (February 12, 1983). "Video Reviews" (https://books.google.com/books?id=9iMEAAAAMBAJ&pg=PT28) . Billboard (/wiki/Billboard_(magazine)) . Vol. 95, no. 5. p. 31. ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0006-2510 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0006-2510) . Retrieved November 20, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-36) Hardy, Ernest (February 12, 2016). "Grace Jones' Classic 'One Man Show' Screens Tonight in LA" (http://www.craveonline.com/music/953585-grace-jones-classic-one-man-show-concert-film-screens-tonight-la) . CraveOnline (/wiki/CraveOnline) . Retrieved November 28, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-37) "Grace Jones – Nightclubbing (Vinyl, LP, Album) at Discogs" (http://www.discogs.com/Grace-Jones-Nightclubbing/release/1895748) . www.discogs.com . Retrieved 28 May 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-38) Palmarès (in French). 29 April 1981. ^ (#cite_ref-39) Esta Noche (in Spanish). Televisión Española (/wiki/Televisi%C3%B3n_Espa%C3%B1ola) . 2 July 1981. ^ (#cite_ref-40) Aktuelle Schaubude (in German). Norddeutscher Rundfunk (/wiki/Norddeutscher_Rundfunk) . 26 September 1981. ^ Jump up to: a b Christgau, Robert (/wiki/Robert_Christgau) (1990). "Grace Jones: (https://www.robertchristgau.com/get_album.php?id=1421) Nightclubbing " (https://www.robertchristgau.com/get_album.php?id=1421) . Christgau's Record Guide: The '80s . Pantheon Books (/wiki/Pantheon_Books) . p. 219 (https://archive.org/details/christgausrecord00chri/page/219) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 067973015X . Retrieved 1 May 2014 . ^ Jump up to: a b Wood, Anna (June 2014). "Grace Jones: Nightclubbing ". Mojo (/wiki/Mojo_(magazine)) . No. 247. London. p. 106. ^ Jump up to: a b c Harris, John (/wiki/John_Harris_(critic)) (June 2014). "Grace Jones: Nightclubbing (Deluxe Edition)". Q (/wiki/Q_(magazine)) . No. 335. London. p. 124. ^ Jump up to: a b Ludgate, Simon (16 May 1981). "Grace and Danger". Record Mirror (/wiki/Record_Mirror) . London. p. 23. ^ Jump up to: a b Pearson, Deanne (28 May – 10 June 1981). "Grace Jones: Nightclubbing ". Smash Hits (/wiki/Smash_Hits) . Vol. 3, no. 11. London. p. 23B. ^ (#cite_ref-MM_46-0) Reines, Roz (23 May 1981). "Grace Jones: Nightclubbing ". Melody Maker (/wiki/Melody_Maker) . London. p. 25. ^ Jump up to: a b Gardner, 2012. p.89 ^ (#cite_ref-48) Anon. (1 February 1982). "The 1981 Pazz & Jop Critics Poll" (http://www.robertchristgau.com/xg/pnj/pjres81.php) . The Village Voice (/wiki/The_Village_Voice) . Retrieved 31 May 2016 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Best Albums of 1981". Sounds (/wiki/Sounds_(magazine)) . London. 19 December 1981. ^ (#cite_ref-50) "Vinyl Finals". NME . 19 December 1981. p. 30. ^ (#cite_ref-slantbest_51-0) Henderson (2012). "The 100 Best Albums of the 1980s" (https://www.slantmagazine.com/features/article/best-albums-of-the-1980s/P13) . Slant Magazine (/wiki/Slant_Magazine) . Retrieved 5 August 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-52) "The 500 Greatest Albums Of All Time: 300-20" (https://www.nme.com/photos/the-500-greatest-albums-of-all-time-300-201/324403#/photo/90) . NME (/wiki/NME) . 2013 . Retrieved 5 August 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-1000guardian_53-0) "1000 albums to hear before you die: Artists beginning with J" (https://www.theguardian.com/music/2007/nov/20/1000tohearbeforeyoudie2) . guardian.com (/wiki/Guardian.com) . 20 November 2007 . Retrieved 5 August 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-liner_54-0) Nightclubbing (LP record). Grace Jones (/wiki/Grace_Jones) . Island Records (/wiki/Island_Records) . 1981. ILPS 9624. {{ cite AV media notes (/wiki/Template:Cite_AV_media_notes) }} : CS1 maint: others in cite AV media (notes) ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_others_in_cite_AV_media_(notes)) ) ^ (#cite_ref-55) Kent, David (/wiki/David_Kent_(historian)) (1993). Australian Chart Book 1970–1992 (illustrated ed.). St Ives, N.S.W.: Australian Chart Book. p. 160. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-646-11917-6 . ^ (#cite_ref-ac_Netherlands_Grace_Jones_56-0) "Dutchcharts.nl – Grace Jones – Nightclubbing" (https://dutchcharts.nl/showitem.asp?interpret=Grace+Jones&titel=Nightclubbing&cat=a) (in Dutch). Hung Medien. ^ (#cite_ref-ac_Germany4_Grace_Jones_57-0) "Offiziellecharts.de – Grace Jones – Nightclubbing" (https://www.offiziellecharts.de/album-details-5675) (in German). GfK Entertainment Charts (/wiki/GfK_Entertainment_Charts) . Retrieved 26 February 2018. ^ (#cite_ref-ac_New_Zealand_Grace_Jones_58-0) "Charts.nz – Grace Jones – Nightclubbing" (https://charts.nz/showitem.asp?interpret=Grace+Jones&titel=Nightclubbing&cat=a) . Hung Medien. ^ (#cite_ref-ac_Norway_Grace_Jones_59-0) "Norwegiancharts.com – Grace Jones – Nightclubbing" (https://norwegiancharts.com/showitem.asp?interpret=Grace+Jones&titel=Nightclubbing&cat=a) . Hung Medien. ^ (#cite_ref-60) Salaverrie, Fernando (September 2005). Sólo éxitos: año a año, 1959–2002 (in Spanish) (1st ed.). Madrid: Fundación Autor/SGAE (/wiki/Sociedad_General_de_Autores_y_Editores) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 84-8048-639-2 . ^ (#cite_ref-ac_Sweden_Grace_Jones_61-0) "Swedishcharts.com – Grace Jones – Nightclubbing" (https://swedishcharts.com/showitem.asp?interpret=Grace+Jones&titel=Nightclubbing&cat=a) . Hung Medien. ^ (#cite_ref-UKI_62-0) "Official Albums Chart Top 100" (https://www.officialcharts.com/charts/albums-chart/19810524/7502/) . Official Charts Company (/wiki/Official_Charts_Company) . Retrieved 26 February 2018. ^ (#cite_ref-ac_Billboard200_Grace_Jones_63-0) "Grace Jones Chart History ( (https://www.billboard.com/artist/Grace-Jones/chart-history/TLP) Billboard 200)" (https://www.billboard.com/artist/Grace-Jones/chart-history/TLP) . Billboard . Retrieved 26 February 2018. ^ (#cite_ref-ac_BillboardRandBHipHop_Grace_Jones_64-0) "Grace Jones Chart History (Top R&B/Hip-Hop Albums)" (https://www.billboard.com/artist/Grace-Jones/chart-history/BLP) . Billboard . Retrieved 24 December 2021. ^ (#cite_ref-ac_Flanders_Grace_Jones_65-0) "Ultratop.be – Grace Jones – Nightclubbing" (https://www.ultratop.be/nl/showitem.asp?interpret=Grace+Jones&titel=Nightclubbing&cat=a) (in Dutch). Hung Medien. Retrieved 24 December 2021. ^ (#cite_ref-ac_Wallonia_Grace_Jones_66-0) "Ultratop.be – Grace Jones – Nightclubbing" (https://www.ultratop.be/fr/showitem.asp?interpret=Grace+Jones&titel=Nightclubbing&cat=a) (in French). Hung Medien. Retrieved 24 December 2021. ^ (#cite_ref-UK2014_67-0) "Official Albums Chart Top 100" (https://www.officialcharts.com/charts/albums-chart/20140504/7502/) . Official Charts Company (/wiki/Official_Charts_Company) . Retrieved 26 February 2018. ^ (#cite_ref-68) Kent 1993 (#CITEREFKent1993) , p. 433 ^ (#cite_ref-69) "Jaaroverzichten – Album 1981" (https://dutchcharts.nl/jaaroverzichten.asp?year=1981&cat=a) (in Dutch). Dutch Charts (/wiki/Dutch_Charts) . Retrieved 24 December 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-70) "Top 100 Album-Jahrescharts – 1981" (https://www.offiziellecharts.de/charts/album-jahr/for-date-1981) (in German). Offizielle Deutsche Charts . Retrieved 24 December 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-71) "Top Selling Albums of 1981" (https://nztop40.co.nz/chart/albums?chart=3870) . Recorded Music NZ (/wiki/Recorded_Music_NZ) . Retrieved 24 December 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-72) "Top Selling Albums of 1982 — The Official New Zealand Music Chart" (https://nztop40.co.nz/chart/albums?chart=3871) . Recorded Music New Zealand (/wiki/Recorded_Music_New_Zealand) . Retrieved 1 February 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-73) "Top Selling Albums of 1983 — The Official New Zealand Music Chart" (https://nztop40.co.nz/chart/albums?chart=3872) . Recorded Music New Zealand (/wiki/Recorded_Music_New_Zealand) . Retrieved 2 February 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-AustraliaalbumCertRef_74-0) "ARIA Charts – Accreditations – 1997 Albums" (https://www.dropbox.com/sh/k9o2q7p7o4awhqx/AADZbLSei--9mqfOiTFRIASMa/1997%20Accreds.pdf) (PDF) . Australian Recording Industry Association (/wiki/Australian_Recording_Industry_Association) . ^ (#cite_ref-GermanyGrace_JonesNight_ClubbingalbumCertRef_75-0) "Gold-/Platin-Datenbank (Grace Jones; (https://www.musikindustrie.de/wie-musik-zur-karriere-werden-kann/markt-bestseller/gold-/platin-und-diamond-auszeichnung/datenbank/?action=suche&strTitel=Night+Clubbing&strInterpret=Grace+Jones&strTtArt=alle&strAwards=checked) ' Night Clubbing (https://www.musikindustrie.de/wie-musik-zur-karriere-werden-kann/markt-bestseller/gold-/platin-und-diamond-auszeichnung/datenbank/?action=suche&strTitel=Night+Clubbing&strInterpret=Grace+Jones&strTtArt=alle&strAwards=checked) ' )" (https://www.musikindustrie.de/wie-musik-zur-karriere-werden-kann/markt-bestseller/gold-/platin-und-diamond-auszeichnung/datenbank/?action=suche&strTitel=Night+Clubbing&strInterpret=Grace+Jones&strTtArt=alle&strAwards=checked) (in German). Bundesverband Musikindustrie (/wiki/Bundesverband_Musikindustrie) . ^ (#cite_ref-New_ZealandGrace_JonesNightclubbingalbumCertRef_76-0) "New Zealand album certifications – Grace Jones – Nightclubbing" (https://nztop40.co.nz/chart/albums?chart=3000) . Recorded Music NZ (/wiki/Recorded_Music_NZ) . ^ (#cite_ref-gracesalesPN_77-0) "Grace Jones The Exotic May Day" (https://books.google.com/books?id=5QMnAAAAIBAJ&pg=PA87) . Baltimore Afro-American (/wiki/Baltimore_Afro-American) . Frances M. Draper: 25. June 1, 1985 . Retrieved 25 September 2023 . Bibliography [ edit ] Gardner, Abigail (4 October 2012). "Framing Grace: Shock and Awe at the Ageless Black Body" (https://books.google.com/books?id=VlbACwAAQBAJ&pg=PT85) . 'Rock On': Women, Ageing and Popular Music . Routledge. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1409428411 . External links [ edit ] Nightclubbing (https://www.discogs.com/master/55576) at Discogs (/wiki/Discogs) (list of releases) Nightclubbing statistics, tagging and previews at Last.fm (/wiki/Last.fm) Nightclubbing at Rate Your Music (/wiki/Rate_Your_Music) Jean-Paul Goude (https://www.jeanpaulgoude.com/) , official website v t e Grace Jones (/wiki/Grace_Jones) Discography (/wiki/Grace_Jones_discography) Studio albums Portfolio (/wiki/Portfolio_(Grace_Jones_album)) (1977) Fame (/wiki/Fame_(Grace_Jones_album)) (1978) Muse (/wiki/Muse_(Grace_Jones_album)) (1979) Warm Leatherette (/wiki/Warm_Leatherette_(album)) (1980) Nightclubbing (1981) Living My Life (/wiki/Living_My_Life_(album)) (1982) Slave to the Rhythm (/wiki/Slave_to_the_Rhythm_(album)) (1985) Inside Story (/wiki/Inside_Story_(Grace_Jones_album)) (1986) Bulletproof Heart (/wiki/Bulletproof_Heart) (1989) Hurricane (/wiki/Hurricane_(Grace_Jones_album)) (2008) Compilations Island Life (/wiki/Island_Life) (1985) The Ultimate (/wiki/The_Ultimate_(Grace_Jones_album)) (1993) Private Life: The Compass Point Sessions (/wiki/Private_Life:_The_Compass_Point_Sessions) (1998) The Universal Masters Collection (/wiki/The_Universal_Masters_Collection_(Grace_Jones_album)) (2003) The Grace Jones Story (/wiki/The_Grace_Jones_Story) (2006) The Ultimate Collection (/wiki/The_Ultimate_Collection_(Grace_Jones_album)) (2006) Disco (/wiki/Disco_(Grace_Jones_album)) (2015) Singles " I Need a Man (/wiki/I_Need_a_Man_(Grace_Jones_song)) " " Sorry (/wiki/Sorry_(Grace_Jones_song)) " " La Vie en rose (/wiki/La_Vie_en_rose#Grace_Jones_version) " " Do or Die (/wiki/Do_or_Die_(Grace_Jones_song)) " " On Your Knees (/wiki/On_Your_Knees_(song)) " " A Rolling Stone (/wiki/A_Rolling_Stone) " " Love Is the Drug (/wiki/Love_Is_the_Drug#Grace_Jones_version) " " Private Life (/wiki/Private_Life_(song)) " " The Hunter Gets Captured by the Game (/wiki/The_Hunter_Gets_Captured_by_the_Game#Grace_Jones_version) " " Breakdown (/wiki/Breakdown_(Tom_Petty_and_the_Heartbreakers_song)#Grace_Jones_version) " " Demolition Man (/wiki/Demolition_Man_(song)) " " I've Seen That Face Before (Libertango) (/wiki/I%27ve_Seen_That_Face_Before_(Libertango)) " " Pull Up to the Bumper (/wiki/Pull_Up_to_the_Bumper) " " Walking in the Rain (/wiki/Walking_in_the_Rain_(Flash_and_the_Pan_song)) " " Nipple to the Bottle (/wiki/Nipple_to_the_Bottle) " " The Apple Stretching (/wiki/The_Apple_Stretching) " " My Jamaican Guy (/wiki/My_Jamaican_Guy) " " Cry Now, Laugh Later (/wiki/Cry_Now,_Laugh_Later) " " Living My Life (/wiki/Living_My_Life_(song)) " " Slave to the Rhythm (/wiki/Slave_to_the_Rhythm_(Grace_Jones_song)) " " Jones the Rhythm (/wiki/Jones_the_Rhythm) " " I'm Not Perfect (But I'm Perfect for You) (/wiki/I%27m_Not_Perfect_(But_I%27m_Perfect_for_You)) " " Party Girl (/wiki/Party_Girl_(Grace_Jones_song)) " " Crush (/wiki/Crush_(Grace_Jones_song)) " " Victor Should Have Been a Jazz Musician (/wiki/Victor_Should_Have_Been_a_Jazz_Musician) " " Love on Top of Love (/wiki/Love_on_Top_of_Love) " " Amado Mio (/wiki/Amado_Mio) " " 7 Day Weekend (/wiki/7_Day_Weekend_(song)) " " Evilmainya (/wiki/Evilmainya) " " Sex Drive (/wiki/Sex_Drive_(Grace_Jones_song)) " " Love Bites (/wiki/Love_Bites_(Grace_Jones_song)) " " Hurricane (Cradle to the Grave) (/wiki/Hurricane_(Cradle_to_the_Grave)) " " Corporate Cannibal (/wiki/Corporate_Cannibal) " " Williams' Blood (/wiki/Williams%27_Blood) " " Love You to Life (/wiki/Love_You_to_Life) " Other songs " Charger (/wiki/Charger_(song)) " Related A One Man Show (/wiki/A_One_Man_Show) Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) MusicBrainz release group (https://musicbrainz.org/release-group/8a0fff99-479d-3fe3-849f-0ddc8d22d304) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6f54559974‐fp64j Cached time: 20240720170225 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 1.519 seconds Real time usage: 1.766 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 17976/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 279452/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 35782/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 21/100 Expensive parser function count: 7/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 279185/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.812/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 8710431/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 1532.881 1 -total 24.71% 378.701 1 Template:Reflist 17.13% 262.583 32 Template:CN 16.60% 254.461 35 Template:Cite_web 16.47% 252.410 1 Template:Infobox_album 13.85% 212.308 32 Template:Fix 13.67% 209.552 4 Template:Certification_Table_Entry 10.40% 159.408 3 Template:Certification_Cite_Ref 9.83% 150.700 3 Template:Cite_certification 9.53% 146.092 2 Template:Infobox Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:2567024-0!canonical and timestamp 20240720170225 and revision id 1215788397. Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Nightclubbing_(Grace_Jones_album)&oldid=1215788397 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Nightclubbing_(Grace_Jones_album)&oldid=1215788397) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : 1981 albums (/wiki/Category:1981_albums) Albums produced by Alex Sadkin (/wiki/Category:Albums_produced_by_Alex_Sadkin) Albums produced by Chris Blackwell (/wiki/Category:Albums_produced_by_Chris_Blackwell) Grace Jones albums (/wiki/Category:Grace_Jones_albums) Island Records albums (/wiki/Category:Island_Records_albums) Post-disco albums (/wiki/Category:Post-disco_albums) Sophisti-pop albums (/wiki/Category:Sophisti-pop_albums) Hidden categories: CS1 French-language sources (fr) (/wiki/Category:CS1_French-language_sources_(fr)) CS1 Spanish-language sources (es) (/wiki/Category:CS1_Spanish-language_sources_(es)) CS1 German-language sources (de) (/wiki/Category:CS1_German-language_sources_(de)) CS1 maint: others in cite AV media (notes) (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_others_in_cite_AV_media_(notes)) CS1 Dutch-language sources (nl) (/wiki/Category:CS1_Dutch-language_sources_(nl)) Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description is different from Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_is_different_from_Wikidata) Articles with hAudio microformats (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_hAudio_microformats) Album articles lacking alt text for covers (/wiki/Category:Album_articles_lacking_alt_text_for_covers) All articles with unsourced statements (/wiki/Category:All_articles_with_unsourced_statements) Articles with unsourced statements from December 2023 (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_unsourced_statements_from_December_2023) Album chart usages for Netherlands (/wiki/Category:Album_chart_usages_for_Netherlands) Album chart usages for Germany4 (/wiki/Category:Album_chart_usages_for_Germany4) Album chart usages for New Zealand (/wiki/Category:Album_chart_usages_for_New_Zealand) Album chart usages for Norway (/wiki/Category:Album_chart_usages_for_Norway) Album chart usages for Sweden (/wiki/Category:Album_chart_usages_for_Sweden) Album chart usages for UK2 (/wiki/Category:Album_chart_usages_for_UK2) Album chart usages for Billboard200 (/wiki/Category:Album_chart_usages_for_Billboard200) Album chart usages for BillboardRandBHipHop (/wiki/Category:Album_chart_usages_for_BillboardRandBHipHop) Album chart usages for Flanders (/wiki/Category:Album_chart_usages_for_Flanders) Album chart usages for Wallonia (/wiki/Category:Album_chart_usages_for_Wallonia) Certification Table Entry usages for Australia (/wiki/Category:Certification_Table_Entry_usages_for_Australia) Pages using certification Table Entry with shipments figures (/wiki/Category:Pages_using_certification_Table_Entry_with_shipments_figures) Certification Table Entry usages for Germany (/wiki/Category:Certification_Table_Entry_usages_for_Germany) Certification Table Entry usages for New Zealand (/wiki/Category:Certification_Table_Entry_usages_for_New_Zealand) Certification Table Entry usages for United States (/wiki/Category:Certification_Table_Entry_usages_for_United_States) Pages using certification Table Entry without certification (/wiki/Category:Pages_using_certification_Table_Entry_without_certification) Pages using certification Table Entry with shipments footnote (/wiki/Category:Pages_using_certification_Table_Entry_with_shipments_footnote) Articles with MusicBrainz release group identifiers (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_MusicBrainz_release_group_identifiers)

Clothing, originally worn by sailors A Royal Naval rating in 1A uniform (a modern sailor suit). A sailor suit is a uniform (/wiki/Military_uniform) traditionally worn by enlisted (/wiki/Enlisted_rank) seamen (/wiki/Seaman_(rank)) in a navy (/wiki/Navy) or other governmental sea services. It later developed into a popular clothing style for children, especially as dress clothes (/wiki/Dress_clothes) and school uniforms (/wiki/School_uniform) . Origins and history [ edit ] In the Royal Navy (/wiki/Royal_Navy) , the sailor suit, also called naval rig, [1] (#cite_note-1) is known as Number One dress and is worn by able rates (/wiki/Able_rate) and leading hands (/wiki/Leading_hand) . It is primarily ceremonial, although it dates from the old working rig of Royal Navy sailors which has continuously evolved since its first introduction in 1857. [2] (#cite_note-britishNavy-2) [3] (#cite_note-3) Versions have been adopted by many navies from around the world. The flap collar is perhaps the most recognizable item of the sailor suit. It is often considered lucky to touch a sailor's collar. [4] (#cite_note-4) The bell-bottomed trousers (/wiki/Bell-bottoms) were designed so that they could be rolled up easily when scrubbing the decks. As children's clothing [ edit ] Prince Albert Edward (the future Edward VII of the United Kingdom (/wiki/Edward_VII_of_the_United_Kingdom) ) in a sailor suit, by Franz Xaver Winterhalter (/wiki/Franz_Xaver_Winterhalter) , 1846 Photograph of a boy on Oxford Street, Sydney, Australia, wearing a sailor suit, with a sennit straw hat at his feet In 1846, the four-year-old Albert Edward, Prince of Wales (/wiki/Edward_VII_of_the_United_Kingdom) was given a scaled-down version of the uniform worn by ratings on the Royal Yacht (/wiki/Royal_Yacht) . He wore his miniature sailor suit during a cruise off the Channel Islands (/wiki/Channel_Islands) that September, delighting his mother (/wiki/Queen_Victoria) and the public. [ citation needed ] Popular engravings, including the famous portrait done by Winterhalter (/wiki/Franz_Winterhalter) , spread the idea, and by the 1870s the sailor suit had become a fashionable dress for both boys (/wiki/Boy) and girls (/wiki/Girl) in many countries. Some Western cartoon and comic characters use a sailor suit as their trademarks; examples include Popeye (/wiki/Popeye) , Donald Duck (/wiki/Donald_Duck) , and Fiddler Pig (/wiki/Three_Little_Pigs_(film)) . Sailor suits have been worn by the members of the Vienna Boys' Choir (/wiki/Vienna_Boys%27_Choir) on their international tours. A female version of the sailor suit, the sailor dress (/wiki/Sailor_dress) , was popularly known in early 20th century America as a Peter Thomson dress after a naval tailor with outlets in New York and Philadelphia. [5] (#cite_note-5) Asian school uniforms [ edit ] Many schools in some Asian countries, including Japan, the Philippines, [6] (#cite_note-6) [ better source needed ] Taiwan, North Korea, South Korea, Hong Kong, Singapore, Vietnam and Thailand, have adopted sailor outfits as a school uniform. [7] (#cite_note-7) [ better source needed ] Japan [ edit ] Main article: Japanese school uniform § Sailor fuku (/wiki/Japanese_school_uniform#Sailor_fuku) Sailor suits are especially common in Japanese girls' schools, known as sailor fuku (/wiki/Sailor_fuku) by the Japanese. They are so common that the image of the outfit has evolved to be strongly associated with youth and female adolescence in popular culture. As a result, sailor uniforms are seen very frequently in Japanese dramas, movies, anime, manga, music videos and concert performances of pop teen idol groups. Philippines [ edit ] Just like in Japan, sailor uniforms are also common in Philippine schools, particularly in high schools. Most public schools adopted the sailor uniform as the official uniform for the girls and some of them adopted with derivatives. See also [ edit ] Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Sailor dress (/wiki/Sailor_dress) Marinière (/wiki/Marini%C3%A8re) Telnyashka (/wiki/Telnyashka) Uniforms of the Royal Navy (/wiki/Uniforms_of_the_Royal_Navy) Uniforms of the United States Navy (/wiki/Uniforms_of_the_United_States_Navy) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "R" (https://web.archive.org/web/20170624051539/http://www.britishempire.co.uk/glossary/r.htm) . britishempire.co.uk . Archived from the original (http://www.britishempire.co.uk/glossary/r.htm) on 2017-06-24 . Retrieved 2009-03-27 . ^ (#cite_ref-britishNavy_2-0) "The History of Rating Uniforms" (https://web.archive.org/web/20060418091414/http://www.royal-navy.mod.uk/server/show/nav.3772) . Royal Navy . Archived from the original (http://www.royal-navy.mod.uk/server/show/nav.3772) on 2006-04-18. ^ (#cite_ref-3) "Uniform Dress for Petty Officers, Seamen and Boys - 1857" (https://sites.rootsweb.com/~pbtyc/RN/Pay_and_Condns/Uniform_1857.html) . Admiralty Circular No. 283. Secretary of the Admiralty (/wiki/Secretary_of_the_Admiralty) . 30 January 1857 . Retrieved 17 March 2024 – via RootsWeb. ^ (#cite_ref-4) Radford, Edwin; Radford, Mona A. (2004). Encyclopedia of Superstitions 1949 . Kessinger Publishing. p. 208. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-4179-7655-3 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Brooks Picken, Mary (1923). Textiles and Sewing Materials: Textiles, Laces, Embroideries and Findings, Shopping Hints, Mending, Household Sewing, Trade and Sewing Terms . Scranton, Pennsylvania: International Textbook Company. p. 250. A kind of dress worn by young girls, the waist of which is made in exact imitation of a sailor's blouse. This style of dress derives its name from its creator, Peter Thomson, who was a tailor in the navy... ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Anime Uniform Same as Your School Uniform" (https://web.archive.org/web/20180515044050/http://www.crunchyroll.com/forumtopic-204060/anime-uniform-same-as-your-school-uniform?pg=49) . Crunchyroll (Forum thread). 2009. Archived from the original (http://www.crunchyroll.com/forumtopic-204060/anime-uniform-same-as-your-school-uniform?pg=49) on 2018-05-15 . Retrieved 2018-05-14 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "Five Best-Looking School Uniforms in Singapore" (https://web.archive.org/web/20150817110638/http://www.lowkayhwa.com/five-best-looking-school-uniforms-in-singapore) . Low Kay Hwa . Archived from the original (http://www.lowkayhwa.com/five-best-looking-school-uniforms-in-singapore/) on 2015-08-17 . Retrieved 2015-08-28 . External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Sailor suits (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Sailor_suits) . 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Italian hat company For the film, see Borsalino (film) (/wiki/Borsalino_(film)) . Borsalino Giuseppe e Fratello S.p.A. Company type Private (/wiki/Private_company) subsidiary (/wiki/Subsidiary) Industry Fashion (/wiki/Fashion_industry) Founded April 4, 1857 ; 167 years ago ( 1857-04-04 ) in Alessandria (/wiki/Alessandria) , Piedmont-Sardinia (/wiki/Kingdom_of_Sardinia) Founder Giuseppe Borsalino Headquarters Spinetta Marengo (/wiki/Spinetta_Marengo) , Italy Products Fedoras (/wiki/Fedora) Parent (/wiki/Parent_company) Haeres Equita Website borsalino (http://borsalino.com) .com (http://borsalino.com) Borsalino Giuseppe e Fratello S.p.A. [1] (#cite_note-1) is the oldest Italian company specializing in the manufacture of luxury hats (/wiki/Hats) . Since 1857, the manufacturer has been based in Alessandria (/wiki/Alessandria) , Piedmont. The founder, Giuseppe Borsalino, is remembered for creating a particular model of felt hat characterized by the registered trademark Borsalino. [2] (#cite_note-2) [3] (#cite_note-3) History [ edit ] Giuseppe Borsalino (1834–1900), the founder of Borsalino On 4 April 1857, Giuseppe Borsalino (/wiki/Giuseppe_Borsalino) started a workshop in Alessandria (/wiki/Alessandria) that specialized in the production of felt hats. The workshop eventually grew to industrial production, and in 1888 the company moved to a new factory designed by Arnaldo Gardella, located on Corso Cento Cannoni, Alessandria. In these years Borsalino produced 2,500 hats a day, but when the company won the Grand Prix, an important quality certificate, at the Paris Exposition Universelle in 1900 (/wiki/Exposition_Universelle_(1900)) , it spread the brand's fame globally. The succession of Giuseppe Borsalino was complicated: the designated heir, Teresio Borsalino, was opposed to his cousin Giovanni Borsalino, son of Lazzaro, who inaugurated a new hat factory using the family name. Between Borsalino Antica Casa and Borsalino Fu Lazzaro were years of hard commercial battles, but in the end, the Teresio came out and the name Borsalino became one again. On the eve of the First World War (/wiki/First_World_War) , Borsalino produced about 2,000,000 hats annually. The manufacturer employed over 2,500 employees, representing a significant resource in the economy of the Piedmontese city. Abroad, the brand spread everywhere, conquering the most important markets: the British, but especially the U.S., where the hats produced in Alessandria were adopted by the Hollywood star system. A downsizing of the company occurred in 1950 in conjunction with the beginning of the fall into disuse of formal hats: Borsalino was thus transformed from a mass product into a cult object. In 1987 the hat factory moved from the historic center in Alessandria to the current one of Spinetta Marengo (/wiki/Spinetta_Marengo) , in the suburbs of the city, and the president, Vittorio Vaccarino, the last descendant of the Borsalino family, sold the company to a group of Milanese entrepreneurs. In the 1990s, the company changed ownership several times, ultimately being bought by the entrepreneur Marco Marenco, involved in a €3.5 billion financial crack. On 18 December 2017, the Court of Alessandria declared the bankruptcy of Borsalino Giuseppe and Fratello Spa. [4] (#cite_note-4) [5] (#cite_note-5) Haeres Equita, a private equity fund which managed the brand's activities since 2016, confirmed the will to continue the production, distribution and promoting activities of the forthcoming collections, keeping all employment and maintaining the production site in Alessandria. [6] (#cite_note-6) In 2017, on the occasion of the 160th anniversary of the company, the Italian Ministry of Economic Development (/wiki/Ministry_for_Business_and_Made_in_Italy) recognized Borsalino as one of the 'Excellencies of the production system', dedicating it a stamp worth €0.95. [7] (#cite_note-7) On 12 July 2018, the company was sold in a court auction (/wiki/Court_auction) for €6.4 million (US$7.4 million) to Haeres Equita. [8] (#cite_note-8) Production [ edit ] Borsalino manufacturing has remained faithful to a production process that represents the cultural values of the company, handed down from generation to generation. The hats continue to be produced in Alessandria close to the area of the company's original foundation. The felt models, created from fur fibers, require more than 50 manual steps and seven weeks of work to create; the straw models, which are hand twisted, can take up to 6 months for a single hat. [9] (#cite_note-9) [10] (#cite_note-10) [11] (#cite_note-11) Borsalino and Alessandria [ edit ] The Borsalino business dynasty has made an important contribution to the city of Alessandria, building the aqueduct, the sewerage network, the hospital, the sanatorium and the retirement home. [12] (#cite_note-12) The historic headquarters of the company, currently located in Corso 100 Cannoni, now hosts the University of Eastern Piedmont (/wiki/University_of_Eastern_Piedmont) Amedeo Avogadro and the Borsalino Hat Museum. [13] (#cite_note-13) [14] (#cite_note-14) [15] (#cite_note-15) [16] (#cite_note-16) In 2016, independent film director Enrica Viola dedicated a documentary to the relationship between Borsalino and Alessandria: Borsalino City [17] (#cite_note-17) [18] (#cite_note-18) [19] (#cite_note-19) was presented at film festivals in Turin (/wiki/Turin) , Barcelona, and Melbourne (/wiki/Melbourne) . The Borsalino Hat Museum [ edit ] In the spring of 2006, the Borsalino Hat Museum opened in the company's historical headquarters in Corso 100 Cannoni, Alessandria. A joint initiative by Alessandria town council and the Borsalino company, the museum covers an exhibition area of roughly 400 square metres (4,300 sq ft) and houses about two thousand hats, displayed in the historic Chippendale (/wiki/Thomas_Chippendale) style cabinets made in the 1920s by Arnaldo Gardella for the factory sample room. In 2018, the museum planned to move to a larger venue with a completely renovated exhibition. [20] (#cite_note-20) In Orthodox Jewish communities [ edit ] See also: Hashkafa § Head covering: kippah (/wiki/Hashkafa#Head_covering:_kippah) Among Orthodox Jewish men and boys, covering the head is an identifier of religiousity. [21] (#cite_note-21) Many men in strictly Orthodox Jewish (/wiki/Haredi_Judaism) communities wear a black, wide-brimmed hat, with Borsalino being one of the most popular makers. In popular culture [ edit ] Borsalino and art [ edit ] The relationship between Borsalino and the art world has ancient origins. Since the birth of advertising in Italy, at the turn of the late nineteenth and early twentieth century, Borsalino has entrusted the realization of its posters to the most important artists of the time. This privileged relationship with art has been confirmed over time and has led the company to collaborate with Cesare Simonetti, Giorgio Muggiani, Giovanni Dradi, Franz Laskoff, Marcello Dudovich (/wiki/Marcello_Dudovich) , winner in 1910 of a competition organized by Borsalino to publicize the Zenit hat, Giuseppe Minonzio, Gino Boccasile (/wiki/Gino_Boccasile) , Luigi Bompard, Jeanne Grignani, Luigi Veronesi (/wiki/Luigi_Veronesi) , Max Huber (/wiki/Max_Huber_(graphic_designer)) and Armando Testa (/wiki/Armando_Testa) . Today, the antique Borsalino advertising posters are collector items. Borsalino and theatre [ edit ] In Arthur Miller's play The Price (/wiki/The_Price_(play)) , character Solomon mentions regretting that his hat is not a Borsalino, in spite of looking so. Borsalino and cinema and television [ edit ] Borsalino has a long-running and special bond with the film industry. Humphrey Bogart (/wiki/Humphrey_Bogart) and Ingrid Bergman (/wiki/Ingrid_Bergman) in the final scene of Casablanca (/wiki/Casablanca_(film)) tends to stand out as the most popular in which a Borsalino hat makes an appearance. The relationship with the cinema was destined to last: in addition to Bogart and Bergman in Casablanca, Marcello Mastroianni (/wiki/Marcello_Mastroianni) in 8 ½ (/wiki/81/2_(Film)) and Jean Paul Belmondo (/wiki/Jean_Paul_Belmondo) in Breathless (/wiki/Breathless_(1960_film)) both wore a Borsalino. The Alessandria factory granted the use of its name to two cult films of the 1970s: Borsalino (/wiki/Borsalino_(film)) and Borsalino & Co. (/wiki/Borsalino_%26_Co.) . The idea was Alain Delon (/wiki/Alain_Delon) 's, and Borsalino accepted on the condition that the company logo would appear on the posters. The Italian company was the first luxury brand to give its name to two films. Robert De Niro (/wiki/Robert_De_Niro) in Once Upon a Time in America (/wiki/Once_Upon_a_Time_in_America) (1984) wore Borsalino hats. In 2011, the Triennale Design Museum (/wiki/Triannale_Design_Museum) in Milan hosted an exhibition entitled "Il cinema con il cappello. Borsalino e altre storie". [22] (#cite_note-22) [23] (#cite_note-23) [24] (#cite_note-24) The actor Toni Servillo (/wiki/Toni_Servillo) wears a Borsalino in the film The Great Beauty (/wiki/The_Great_Beauty) , which won Best Foreign Language Film (/wiki/Best_Foreign_Language_Film) at the 86th Academy Awards (/wiki/86th_Academy_Awards) . In 2018, Borsalino celebrated its deep and lasting relationship with the world of cinema by introducing The Bogart by Borsalino, a special collection dedicated to Humphrey Bogart, the great Hollywood actor. The hats collection was created in collaboration with Humphrey Bogart Estate. [25] (#cite_note-25) In the TV show “ Shantaram (/wiki/Shantaram_(TV_series)) ”, a secondary but recurring character in season 1, episode 5, titled “The Sin in the Crime", uses a metaphor about the quality of a Borsalino hat to describe the main character’s (Lin Ford, played by Charlie Hunnam (/wiki/Charlie_Hunnam) ) relationship with the city of Bombay (/wiki/Mumbai) , India. In the Netflix series " Ripley (/wiki/Ripley_(TV_series)) ", a witness to the disposal of Freddie's body described him as a thin man wearing a Borsalino hat. [26] (#cite_note-26) Borsalino and design [ edit ] In 2009, Borsalino was included by the Triennale Design Museum in Milan among quintessential Italian icons in the 'Serie Fuori Serie' exhibition. [27] (#cite_note-27) The exhibition was replicated in March 2017 at the National Museum of China (/wiki/National_Museum_of_China) in Beijing. [28] (#cite_note-28) The Chapeau Lamp [29] (#cite_note-29) (2014) designed by Philippe Starck (/wiki/Philippe_Starck) for Flos and the sculpture The Hatband [30] (#cite_note-30) (2016) by Moritz Waldemeyer (/wiki/Moritz_Waldemeyer) are both tributes to Borsalino. Borsalino and fashion [ edit ] Borsalino has been collaborating with important names in the fashion system since the beginning of the millennium. These have led to the creation of capsule collections with Nick Fouquet (/wiki/Nick_Fouquet) , [31] (#cite_note-31) Tom Ford (/wiki/Tom_Ford) , Gianni Versace (/wiki/Gianni_Versace) , Krizia (/wiki/Krizia) , Valentino (/wiki/Valentino_(fashion_designer)) , Moschino (/wiki/Moschino) , Yohji Yamamoto (/wiki/Yohji_Yamamoto) , Marni (/wiki/Marni) , Gianfranco Ferré (/wiki/Gianfranco_Ferr%C3%A9) , Rochas (/wiki/Rochas) , Italia Independent (/wiki/Italia_Independent) and DSquared (/wiki/DSquared) . See also [ edit ] Company portal (/wiki/Portal:Company) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Italy portal (/wiki/Portal:Italy) Fedora (/wiki/Fedora) Boss of the Plains (/wiki/Boss_of_the_Plains) Homburg (hat) (/wiki/Homburg_(hat)) Pork pie hat (/wiki/Pork_pie_hat) Stetson (/wiki/Stetson) Trench coat (/wiki/Trench_coat) Trilby (/wiki/Trilby) Tyrolean hat (/wiki/Tyrolean_hat) List of headgear (/wiki/List_of_headgear) Cap (/wiki/Cap) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Borsalino Giuseppe e Fratello Spa" (https://www.unioncamere.gov.it/imprese-storiche/borsalino-giuseppe-e-fratello-spa) . Unioncamere . Retrieved 22 July 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Grande Dizionario della lingua italiana - Accademia della Crusca" (http://www.gdli.it/) . Gdli.it . Retrieved 17 December 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "borsalino in Vocabolario - Treccani" (https://www.treccani.it/vocabolario/borsalino) . Treccani.it . Retrieved 17 December 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Squires, Nick (19 December 2017). "Indiana Jones' Italian hatmaker Borsalino goes bust" (https://www.telegraph.co.uk/business/2017/12/19/indiana-jones-italian-hatmaker-borsalino-goes-bust/) . The Daily Telegraph (/wiki/The_Daily_Telegraph) . Retrieved 20 December 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Famed Italian hatmaker Borsalino declared bankrupt" (http://www.france24.com/en/20171219-italy-business-famed-italian-hatmaker-borsalino-declared-bankrupt) . France 24. Agence France-Presse. 19 December 2017 . Retrieved 20 December 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) " (https://www.lastampa.it/alessandria/2017/12/18/news/borsalino-l-attivita-continua-la-societa-di-philippe-camperio-conferma-la-volonta-di-andare-avanti-1.34084670/) "Borsalino, l'attività continua". La società di Philippe Camperio conferma la volontà di andare avanti" (https://www.lastampa.it/alessandria/2017/12/18/news/borsalino-l-attivita-continua-la-societa-di-philippe-camperio-conferma-la-volonta-di-andare-avanti-1.34084670/) . Lastampa.it . 18 December 2017 . Retrieved 17 December 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Turra, Alessandra (4 April 2017). "Borsalino 160th Anniversary Celebrated With Postage Stamp" (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/borsalino-160th-anniversary-celebrated-postage-stamp-italy-10857782/) . Wwd.com . Retrieved 17 December 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) Segreti, Giulia (13 July 2018). "New owners plot listing for Italian hat maker Borsalino" (https://www.reuters.com/article/us-italy-borsalino-strategy/new-owners-plot-listing-for-italian-hat-maker-borsalino-idUSKBN1K31R5) . Reuters.com . Retrieved 9 February 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Cappelli artigianali - Alice Rapetti – Artigianato Italiano | Samsung Maestros Academy" (https://web.archive.org/web/20171003224919/https://maestrosacademy.samsung.it/Alice-Rapetti) . Archived from the original (https://maestrosacademy.samsung.it/Alice-Rapetti) on 3 October 2017 . Retrieved 11 January 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "Borsalino Official Website - Hat manufacture since 1857" (https://www.borsalino.com/en) . Borsalino.com . Retrieved 17 December 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Come si fa un Borsalino" (http://www.ilpost.it/2015/12/04/come-si-fa-un-borsalino/) . Ilpost.it . 4 December 2015 . Retrieved 17 December 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "La nostalgica "fu Alessandria": miti e marchi che hanno fatto la storia di una città e del suo territorio" (https://radiogold.it/tempo-libero/40790-nostalgica-fu-alessandria-miti-marchi-fatto-storia-citta-suo-territorio/) . RadioGold.it . 10 March 2016 . Retrieved 17 December 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) "CulturAl - Il portale di informazione culturale e turistica della Città di Alessandria" (http://www.cultural.it/musei/Borsalino.asp) . Cultural.it . Retrieved 17 December 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) "Museo del Cappello Borsalino | Museimpresa" (https://web.archive.org/web/20140228081904/http://www.museimpresa.com/associato/museo-cappello-borsalino/) . Archived from the original (http://www.museimpresa.com/associato/museo-cappello-Borsalino/) on 28 February 2014 . Retrieved 12 January 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) "Museo del cappello Borsalino" (https://web.archive.org/web/20170927202424/http://www.beniculturali.it/mibac/opencms/MiBAC/sito-MiBAC/Luogo/MibacUnif/Luoghi-della-Cultura/visualizza_asset.html?id=152786&pagename=57) . Archived from the original (http://www.beniculturali.it/mibac/opencms/MiBAC/sito-MiBAC/Luogo/MibacUnif/Luoghi-della-Cultura/visualizza_asset.html?id=152786&pagename=57) on 27 September 2017 . Retrieved 29 January 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) "Un nuovo Museo del Cappello Borsalino - Piemonteinforma" (https://web.archive.org/web/20230108214939/http://www.regione.piemonte.it/pinforma/cultura/1167-un-nuovo-museo-del-cappello-Borsalino.html) . Regione.piemonte.it . Archived from the original (http://www.regione.piemonte.it/pinforma/cultura/1167-un-nuovo-museo-del-cappello-Borsalino.html) on 8 January 2023 . Retrieved 17 December 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) "Borsalino City - Film" (https://web.archive.org/web/20170927203025/http://www.borsalinocity.it/index-it.html) . Bordalinocity.it . Archived from the original (http://www.borsalinocity.it/index-it.html) on 27 September 2017 . Retrieved 12 January 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) "La storia del cappello Borsalino in un documentario al cinema - GQItalia.it" (https://web.archive.org/web/20200727130455/https://www.gqitalia.it/moda/trend/new/2016/04/26/tutto-quello-che-non-sai-sul-cappello-Borsalino) . Archived from the original (https://www.gqitalia.it/moda/trend/new/2016/04/26/tutto-quello-che-non-sai-sul-cappello-Borsalino/) on 27 July 2020 . Retrieved 12 January 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) "Borsalino city" (http://film.cinecitta.com/IT/it-it/news/70/2413/Borsalino-city.aspx) . Film.cinecitta.com . ^ (#cite_ref-20) "Finito il cantiere per il Museo BorsalinoOra si deve riallestire, ci vorranno mesi" (http://www.lastampa.it/2017/10/05/edizioni/alessandria/finito-il-cantiere-per-il-museo-borsalino-ora-si-deve-riallestire-ci-vorranno-mesi-DZl3crV7CHCkfQILVjRJcI/pagina.html) . Lastampa.it . 5 October 2017. ^ (#cite_ref-21) Levin, Sara (12 April 2019). "Forbes Profiles Modest Fashion Influencers & Other Orthodox Jews in the News" (https://jewinthecity.com/2019/04/forbes-profiles-modest-fashion-influencers-other-orthodox-jews-in-the-news) . Jewinthecity.com . The head covering preferred by Orthodox Jewish boys and men is .. ^ (#cite_ref-22) "Triennale di Milano - Il cinema con il cappello - Borsalino e altre storie" (https://web.archive.org/web/20180113041003/http://old.triennale.org/en/mostre/passate/385-il-cinema-con-il-cappello-Borsalino-e-altre-storie#.WXij6a1aai4#.WXij6a1aai4) . Archived from the original (http://old.triennale.org/en/mostre/passate/385-il-cinema-con-il-cappello-Borsalino-e-altre-storie) on 13 January 2018 . Retrieved 12 January 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-23) [1] (http://archive.panorama.com/culture/Al-cinema-col-cappello-i-Borsalino-piu-famosi-del-grande-schermo-in-mostra-alla-Triennale-di-Milano) [ permanent dead link ] ^ (#cite_ref-24) "Da Bogart ad Alain Delon. Alla Triennale il cinema si mette il cappello" (http://www.ilsole24ore.com/art/cultura/2011-01-18/bogart-alain-delon-triennale-182145.shtml?uuid=Aa2kju0C) . Ilsole24ore.com . Retrieved 17 December 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-25) "In Pictures: Borsalino's "Bogart" Fedora" (https://robbreport.com/style/fashion/gallery/pictures-borsalino-bogart-fedora-2816205/) . Robreport.com . 11 September 2018. ^ (#cite_ref-26) "Instagram" (https://www.instagram.com/eclipsehatshop/reel/C56Wy6zP1q_/?locale=hi_IN) . www.instagram.com . Retrieved 21 June 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-27) "La Triennale di Milano » Serie Fuori SerieTriennale Design MuseumSeconda edizione" (https://web.archive.org/web/20170629012923/http://www.triennale.org/design_museum/serie-fuori-serie-seconda-edizione-design-museum/) . Archived from the original (http://www.triennale.org/design_museum/serie-fuori-serie-seconda-edizione-design-museum/) on 29 June 2017 . Retrieved 15 January 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-28) "Inaugura a Pechino la mostra "Serie Fuori Serie" – Direzione generale Musei" (https://web.archive.org/web/20180115185727/http://musei.beniculturali.it/notizie/mostre/inaugura-a-pechino-la-mostra-serie-fuori-serie) . Archived from the original (http://musei.beniculturali.it/notizie/mostre/inaugura-a-pechino-la-mostra-serie-fuori-serie) on 15 January 2018 . Retrieved 15 January 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-29) "philippe starck: chapeau light for flos" (https://www.designboom.com/design/philippe-starck-chapeau-for-flos/) . Designboom.com . 12 April 2013 . Retrieved 17 December 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-30) [2] (http://www.ilsole24ore.com/art/moda/2016-05-20/borne-firma-cappello-benefico-i-125-anni-fenwich-bond-street-124731.shtml?uuid=ADiJZBM) [ permanent dead link ] ^ (#cite_ref-31) "Search results for: 'article? Store=us' (https://www.antonia.it/module/anteditorial/article?article_id=520) " (https://www.antonia.it/module/anteditorial/article?article_id=520) . Antonia.it . [ permanent dead link ] External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Borsalino (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Borsalino) . Official website (http://www.borsalino.com/) Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) VIAF (https://viaf.org/viaf/140339348) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.eqiad.main‐57d74c944b‐l9hhv Cached time: 20240720165255 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 1.019 seconds Real time usage: 1.272 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 3347/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 71074/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 4528/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 20/100 Expensive parser function count: 10/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 115236/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.687/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 9949347/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 1163.865 1 -total 39.16% 455.774 1 Template:Reflist 26.05% 303.173 26 Template:Cite_web 14.52% 169.013 1 Template:Infobox_company 12.94% 150.601 1 Template:Infobox 11.93% 138.869 1 Template:Authority_control 10.24% 119.222 1 Template:Short_description 7.66% 89.109 1 Template:Commons_category 7.39% 86.065 1 Template:Sister_project 7.19% 83.674 1 Template:Side_box Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:2587958-0!canonical and timestamp 20240720165255 and revision id 1230162488. 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Colorful men's garment widely worn in West Africa that covers the top half of the body For the light clothing sometimes called "dashikis" or "Dyshque's", see Shalwar kameez (/wiki/Shalwar_kameez) and Thawb (/wiki/Thawb) . A musician in Ghana (/wiki/Ghana) , dressed in a dashiki The dashiki is a colorful garment that covers the top half of the body, worn mostly in West Africa (/wiki/West_Africa) . [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) It has formal (/wiki/Formal_wear) and informal versions and varies from simple draped clothing to fully tailored suits. A common form is a loose-fitting pullover garment, with an ornate V-shaped collar, and tailored and embroidered neck and sleeve lines. It is frequently worn with a brimless kufi (/wiki/Kufi) cap (which is worn in Islamic communities in Africa and the African diaspora) and pants. It has been popularized and claimed by communities in the African diaspora (/wiki/African_Diaspora) , especially African Americans. (/wiki/African-Americans) The now trademark dashiki design was born from the "Angelina print," a wax print (/wiki/African_wax_prints) pattern by Dutch designer Toon van de Mannaker for Netherlands-based Vlisco (/wiki/Vlisco) , whose designs are "inspired by Africa". [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) [2] (#cite_note-2) The exact inspiration for the Angelina print pattern was traditional silk embroidered tunics worn by Ethiopian women. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) [3] (#cite_note-3) The Angelina print's popularity coincided with the release of Ghanaian high-life (/wiki/Highlife) hit song "Angelina", a name the West African market would begin to call the wax print pattern. [4] (#cite_note-:1-4) In Congo it would be called "Ya Mamado!" and later " Miriam Makeba (/wiki/Miriam_Makeba) ", the former being song lyrics of a hit song by a local band that helped popularise the pattern and the latter being a legendary South African musician (/wiki/Miriam_Makeba) who often wore wax prints. [4] (#cite_note-:1-4) The word "dashiki" comes from dàńṣíkí , [5] (#cite_note-5) a Yoruba (/wiki/Yoruba_language) loanword from the Hausa (/wiki/Hausa_language) dan ciki , literally meaning 'shirt' or 'inner garment' (as compared to the outer garment, babban riga (/wiki/Agbada) ). [6] (#cite_note-6) Versions [ edit ] The informal version of the dashiki is a traditional print or embroidered dashiki. Three formal versions exist. The first type consists of a dashiki, sokoto ( drawstring pants (/wiki/Drawstring_pants) ), and a matching kufi (/wiki/Kufi) . This style is called a dashiki suit or dashiki trouser set and it is the attire worn by most grooms during wedding ceremonies. The second version consists of an ankle-length shirt, matching kufi, and sokoto and is called a Senegalese kaftan (/wiki/Senegalese_kaftan) . The third type consists of a dashiki and matching trousers. A flowing gown is worn over these. This type is called a grand boubou or an agbada (/wiki/Agbada) . There are several different styles of dashiki suits available from clothing stores. The type of shirt included in the set determines the name. The traditional dashiki suit includes a thigh-length shirt. The short sleeve, traditional style is preferred by purists. A long dashiki suit includes a shirt that is knee-length or longer. However, if the shirt reaches the ankles, it is a Senegalese kaftan. Finally, the lace dashiki suit includes a shirt made of lace. A hybrid of the dashiki and caftan worn by females is a traditional male dashiki with a western skirt. Wedding colors [ edit ] Grey is the traditional color for some West African weddings. [7] (#cite_note-Bridalzine-7) Some grooms wear white dashiki suits during wedding ceremonies. Some couples wear non-traditional colors. The most common non-traditional colors are purple and blue. Purple and lavender: the color of African royalty. [8] (#cite_note-WeddingDetails.com-8) Blue: blue is the color of love, peace, and harmony. Funeral colors [ edit ] Black and red are the traditional colors of mourning (/wiki/Mourning) . [9] (#cite_note-Path_Ghana.com-9) In the United States [ edit ] The dashiki found a market in America during the Civil Rights (/wiki/Civil_Rights_Movement) and Black Power movements (/wiki/Black_Power_movement) . The term dashiki began appearing in print at least as early as 1967. Reporting on the 1967 Newark riots (/wiki/1967_Newark_riots) in the Amsterdam News (/wiki/The_New_York_Amsterdam_News) on July 22, 1967, George Barner refers to a new African garment called a " dan shiki". An article by Faith Berry in The New York Times Magazine (/wiki/The_New_York_Times_Magazine) includes it on July 7, 1968. Dashiki formally appeared in the Webster's New World Dictionary (/wiki/Webster%27s_New_World_Dictionary) , 1st College Edition of 1970/72. It cites J. Benning with the first written usage of the word in 1967. J. Benning, M. Clarke, H. Davis and W. Smith were founders of New Breed of Harlem (/wiki/Harlem) in Manhattan (/wiki/Manhattan) , New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) , the first manufacturer of the garment in the United States. The dashiki was featured in the movies Uptight (/wiki/Uptight_(film)) (1968), Putney Swope (/wiki/Putney_Swope) (1969), and the weekly television series Soul Train (/wiki/Soul_Train) (1971). The Sanford and Son (/wiki/Sanford_and_Son) episode "Lamont Goes African" features Sanford's son Lamont wearing a dashiki as part of his attempt to return to his African roots. Jim Brown (/wiki/Jim_Brown) , Wilt Chamberlain (/wiki/Wilt_Chamberlain) , Sammy Davis Jr. (/wiki/Sammy_Davis_Jr.) , and Bill Russell (/wiki/Bill_Russell) were among the well-known African-American (/wiki/African-American) athletes and entertainers who wore the dashiki on talk shows. Hippies (/wiki/Hippies) also adopted dashikis into their wardrobe as a means to express counterculture (/wiki/Counterculture) values. [10] (#cite_note-10) Former District of Columbia (/wiki/District_of_Columbia) mayor and council member Marion Barry (/wiki/Marion_Barry) was known for wearing a dashiki leading up to elections. Dashikis have been seen on many musicians, rappers and singers, mostly African Americans (/wiki/African_Americans) , including Beyoncé (/wiki/Beyonc%C3%A9) , Rihanna (/wiki/Rihanna) , Chris Brown (/wiki/Chris_Brown) , Wiz Khalifa (/wiki/Wiz_Khalifa) , ScHoolboy Q (/wiki/ScHoolboy_Q) , Q-Tip (/wiki/Q-Tip_(musician)) , and many others. Fred Hampton (/wiki/Fred_Hampton) of the Black Panther Party (/wiki/Black_Panther_Party) made note of black business owners wearing dashikis in his 1969 speech "Power Anywhere Where There's People": "[A]nybody who comes into the community to make profit off the people by exploiting them can be defined as a capitalist. And we don't care how many programs they have, how long a dashiki they have. Because political power does not flow from the sleeve of a dashiki; political power flows from the barrel of a gun (/wiki/Political_power_grows_out_of_the_barrel_of_a_gun) ." [11] (#cite_note-11) In February 2023, freshman lawmaker Justin J. Pearson (/wiki/Justin_J._Pearson) was inaugurated to the Tennessee (/wiki/Tennessee) House of Representatives while wearing a dashiki, prompting an immediate backlash from conservative lawmakers. [12] (#cite_note-12) The Tennessee House GOP tweeted that Pearson "should explore a different career opportunity" (https://twitter.com/tnhousegop/status/1623805588525178881?s=20&t=JE3aFlcMXil7fLYWAU1gPg) and referenced non-existent dress rules for the house in an effort to support what was widely criticized as a racist response to Pearson's choice of attire. [ citation needed ] See also [ edit ] Africa portal (/wiki/Portal:Africa) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) National costume (/wiki/National_costume) African textiles (/wiki/African_textiles) Kurta (/wiki/Kurta) Tunic (/wiki/Tunic) Kitenge (/wiki/Kitenge) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c "The Amazing History and Evolution of The Dashiki" (https://www.unorthodoxreviews.com/dashiki-history-evolution/) . UnorthodoxReviews. 27 June 2020. ^ (#cite_ref-2) "About Vlisco" (https://www.vlisco.com/about/about-vlisco/) . Vlisco . Retrieved 2022-08-06 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Museum, Victoria and Albert. "Kamis | Unknown | V&A Explore The Collections" (https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O143065/) . Victoria and Albert Museum: Explore the Collections . Retrieved 2022-08-07 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Vlisco Angelina fabric - story behind these African fabric patterns" (https://www.vlisco.com/fabric_story/angelina/) . Vlisco . Retrieved 2022-08-06 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "dashiki" (https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/dashiki) . Merriam-Webster Online Dictionary . Retrieved 2019-03-13 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "African Fabrics 101: From Angelina Print To Dashiki Shirt" (https://web.archive.org/web/20180111052619/https://kuwala.co/blogs/news/173604679-african-fabrics-101-dashiki) . Kuwala Co. June 8, 2016. Archived from the original (https://kuwala.co/blogs/news/173604679-african-fabrics-101-dashiki) on January 11, 2018 . Retrieved January 10, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-Bridalzine_7-0) "African American Wedding Culture" (https://web.archive.org/web/20171206140050/http://www.bridalzine.com/culture1.html) . Archived from the original (http://www.bridalzine.com/culture1.html) on 2017-12-06 . Retrieved 2009-04-30 . ^ (#cite_ref-WeddingDetails.com_8-0) "African Wedding Traditions" (https://www.weddingdetails.com/wedding-traditions/africa/) . ^ (#cite_ref-Path_Ghana.com_9-0) "Funerals in Ghana" (https://web.archive.org/web/20110715051715/http://pathghana.com/funerals-in-ghana.html) . Archived from the original (http://pathghana.com/funerals-in-ghana.html) on 2011-07-15. ^ (#cite_ref-10) Wolff, Norma H. "Dashiki" (https://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/clothing-types-styles/dashiki) . LoveToKnow. ^ (#cite_ref-11) < "Power Anywhere Where There's People" (http://www.historyisaweapon.com/defcon1/fhamptonspeech.html) . Historyisaweapon.com. Retrieved on 2020-02-21. ^ (#cite_ref-12) "A new Tennessee lawmaker walks into the capitol wearing a dashiki. House GOP suggests he explore other careers" (https://wpln.org/post/a-new-tennessee-lawmaker-walks-into-the-capitol-wearing-a-dashiki-house-gop-suggests-he-explore-other-careers/) . 10 February 2023. Further reading [ edit ] Anyiam, Thony C. (2007), Jumping the Broom in Style , Authorhouse, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 1-4259-8638-2 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/1-4259-8638-2) . Cole, Harriette (2004), Jumping the Broom: The African-American Wedding Planner , 2nd Ed., Owl Books, pg. 117, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-8050-7329-9 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-8050-7329-9) . Hoyt-Goldsmith, Diane (1994), Celebrating Kwanzaa , Holiday House, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-8234-1130-3 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-8234-1130-3) . 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Not to be confused with Scent of Love (/wiki/Scent_of_Love) . 1997 American erotic film Zazel Zazel - Blu-ray (/wiki/Blu-ray_Disc) cover (2008) features Sasha Vinni as the " Blue Siren (/wiki/Siren_(mythology)) " and Anna Romero as the " She (/wiki/Supernatural_beings_in_Slavic_folklore) - Devil (/wiki/Devil) ". Directed by Philip Mond (/wiki/Philip_Mond) Produced by Marco Starring Sasha Vinni Anna Romero Brooke Lane Gina LaMarca Lene Hefner Nikie St. Giles Helena Antonio Valentino Kevin James Drew Reese Devin Deray Cinematography Philip Mond Edited by James Avalon (/wiki/James_Avalon) Music by Dino and Earl Ninn Production company Cal Vista Studios Distributed by Metro Interactive (/wiki/List_of_pornographic_film_studios) , LLC (/wiki/Limited_liability_company) Release date 1997 ( 1997 ) [1] (#cite_note-1) Running time 126 minutes Country United States Language English Budget $237,000 Zazel: The Scent of Love (also known as "Zazel: Philip Mond's Scent of Love" [2] (#cite_note-PH-SashaVinni-iafd-2) and "ZTSOL" [3] (#cite_note-AA-2014-3) ) is an American erotic film (/wiki/Erotic_art) , [4] (#cite_note-FM-2016-4) photographed in October 1995 and released in 1997. In occultism (/wiki/Occultism) , Zȃzȇl (/wiki/Zazel_(spirit)) is a spirit associated with Saturn (/wiki/Saturn_(mythology)) . [5] (#cite_note-TheMagus-5) [6] (#cite_note-CrystalLinks-6) [7] (#cite_note-TC-20170308-7) [8] (#cite_note-HP-1998-8) The film was produced (/wiki/Film_producer) by Cal Vista Studios—reportedly made at a cost of $237,000—and was directed (/wiki/Film_director) by Dutch (/wiki/Netherlands) fashion photographer (/wiki/Fashion_photography) and filmmaker (/wiki/Filmmaker) Philip Mond (/wiki/Philip_Mond) , who also did the camera work and designed the costumes and special make-up. It was Mond's second adult erotic feature (/wiki/Erotic_photography) after Sex Off the Runway —and like his previous film, Zazel also featured a bevy of Penthouse Pets, including 1994 Pet of the Year, Sasha Vinni; [9] (#cite_note-PH-SashaVinni-pm-9) 1995 Pet of the Year, Gina LaMarca; [10] (#cite_note-PH-GinaLaMarca-10) and 1999 Pet of the Year, Nikie St. Gilles. [11] (#cite_note-PH-NikieStGiles-11) The film included visually elaborate set pieces (/wiki/Set_piece_(film)) ; extravagant costuming (/wiki/Costuming) , make-up (/wiki/Make-up) and body painting (/wiki/Body_painting) ; and expensive filming techniques, such as underwater photography (/wiki/Underwater_photography) , not normally seen in such erotic films. Plot [ edit ] This article's plot summary may be too long or excessively detailed (/wiki/Wikipedia:How_to_write_a_plot_summary) . Please help improve it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Zazel:_The_Scent_of_Love&action=edit) by removing unnecessary details and making it more concise. ( February 2020 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) "Zazel" is the title character (/wiki/Title_role#Title_character) , a world-famous artist (/wiki/Artist) commissioned to create "the most arousing perfume (/wiki/Perfume) ever". In the course of devising this scent, Zazel variously paints (/wiki/Painting) pictures, views photographs (/wiki/Photograph) , and wanders among the flowers (/wiki/Flower) of her garden (/wiki/Garden) , each experience inspiring her to envision a powerful sexual fantasy (/wiki/Sexual_fantasy) . The film consists of nearly a dozen individually themed sequences which reference and recreate iconography (/wiki/Iconography) drawn from mythology (/wiki/Mythology) , religion (/wiki/Religion) , literature (/wiki/Literature) , film (/wiki/Film) and even Jungian psychology (/wiki/Jungian_psychology) . These include sirens (/wiki/Siren_(mythology)) , water nymphs (/wiki/Nymph) , mermaids (/wiki/Mermaid) , flowers (/wiki/Flower) , the jungle (/wiki/Jungle) , The Three Musketeers (/wiki/The_Three_Musketeers) , classic old Hollywood (/wiki/Hollywood_(film_industry)) movies, angels (/wiki/Angels) and demons (/wiki/Demons) , and the Jungian (/wiki/Jungian) duality of male (/wiki/Male) and female (/wiki/Female) . Each sequence features an imaginative and novel treatment of sexual activity (/wiki/Human_sexual_activity) based on these themes, as well as several visual/anatomical puns achieved through the strategic use of body paint (/wiki/Body_paint) , fetishistic costumes (/wiki/Fetish_fashion) and accessories, and trompe-l'œil (/wiki/Trompe-l%27%C5%93il) camera placement and editing trickery. It is notable that Sasha Vinni, who plays Zazel and also narrates the film, never has heterosexual intercourse (/wiki/Heterosexual_intercourse) in any of her scenes: she masturbates (/wiki/Masturbates) and engages in lesbian (/wiki/Lesbian) activities with the other female performers. Zazel - DVD (/wiki/DVD) cover (1997) features Gina LaMarca and Sasha Vinni. "Blue Siren" sequence [ edit ] In the opening sequence, Sasha Vinni emerges from a pond as the " Blue Siren (/wiki/Siren_(mythology)) ", her nude body is painted bright blue and multiple arms appear and gesticulate behind her like the Avatar (/wiki/Avatar) of the Hindu god (/wiki/Hindu_deities) Vishnu (/wiki/Vishnu) . She then performs cunnilingus (/wiki/Cunnilingus) on the " Water Nymph (/wiki/Naiad) " (Grace Harlow). "Wild Orchid" sequence [ edit ] Sasha Vinni as Zazel sits at her desk and airbrushes (/wiki/Airbrush) an image of a flower (/wiki/Flower) . A visual pun (/wiki/Visual_pun) is created as the petals (/wiki/Petal) start to move and contract and reveal themselves as artfully painted labial (/wiki/Labia_(genitalia)) folds. "Bird of Paradise" sequence [ edit ] Sasha Vinni appears as an assistant to a male lover/ tattoo artist (/wiki/Tattoo_artist) played by Devin Deray. Sasha Vinni shaves Lene Hefner's crotch (/wiki/Groin) with a spa razor, rinses it with an urn (/wiki/Urn) full of water. The tattoo artist then designs a colorful flower pattern on Hefner's vulva (/wiki/Vulva) . The trio then engage in sex. "Jungle" sequence [ edit ] In the " Jungle (/wiki/Jungle) " sequence, Sasha Vinni's nude body is artfully painted with tiger stripes (/wiki/Tiger) as she writhes and crawls through tropical vegetation. The scene ends with a close-up (/wiki/Close-up) shot of a woman (whose face is never seen) with a tiger's face painted on her buttocks (/wiki/Buttocks) . The woman rides (/wiki/Woman_on_top_(sex_position)) a man's penis (/wiki/Human_penis) , creating the illusion that the tiger's face is " fellating (/wiki/Fellatio) " him. "Precious Flower" sequence [ edit ] This sequence is yet another variation on the flower motif as Sasha Vinni is shown penetrating herself with flower-shaped objects and masturbating (/wiki/Masturbation) . "Three Musketeers" sequence [ edit ] In the " Three Musketeers (/wiki/Three_Musketeers) " sequence, Sasha Vinni, Brooke Lane and Anna Romero appear in 17th-century-style period costume based on the characters of the Dumas (/wiki/Alexandre_Dumas,_p%C3%A8re) novel. They strip, French kiss (/wiki/French_kiss) , perform cunnilingus (/wiki/Cunnilingus) on one another, and masturbate (/wiki/Masturbate) by penetrating themselves with rubber dildoes (/wiki/Dildo) which they have outfitted on the back of their riding boots (/wiki/Riding_boot) like spurs (/wiki/Spur) . "Angels" sequence [ edit ] The " Angels (/wiki/Angels) " sequence is filmed in bright, diffuse light and features three women (Sasha Vinni, Brooke Lane and Helena) as "Female Angels", each with elaborately knotted hair and coated in pale, peach-colored body paint. These three female angels perform various sexual acts with a similarly painted man outfitted with giant angel's wings (Antonio Valentino)—the "Winged Male Angel". (Anna Romero and Kevin James served as body doubles (/wiki/Body_double) .) "Old Black-and-White Movie" sequence [ edit ] The black-and-white (/wiki/Black-and-white) sequence is the only one to feature no lesbian sex at all, and it is also the only part of the film in which Sasha Vinni does not appear. It begins with Gina LaMarca as " the Seductress (/wiki/Seduction) ", wearing ornate white pasties (/wiki/Pasties) over her breasts with a matching white crotch guard (see DVD cover (/wiki/File:Zazel-cover.jpg) above), gyrating on a bed. The fetish accessories are soon removed and she and her male partner (Jon Severini) engage in various sexual activities. Cross-cutting from the man's final ejaculation (/wiki/Cum_shot) on her belly, they are also seen performing a tumbling dive into a swimming pool (/wiki/Swimming_pool) while holding hands and then resurfacing to embrace and cuddle in the water. "Mysterious Union" sequence [ edit ] Sasha Vinni performs a sensuous erotic dance (/wiki/Erotic_dance) with one half of her face and body painted and dressed as a woman in a skirt, and the other half made up as a mustachioed man wearing a suit. Vinni takes turns showing her "female" and then "male" side to the camera while the other half remains hidden in shadow and out of view. The sequence concludes with an outlandish-looking woman—shaven-headed except for a teased-up lemon blonde (/wiki/Blond) mohawk (/wiki/Mohawk_hairstyle) (which might be a wig) and with spangled clothespins (/wiki/Clothespin) fastened to her nipples (/wiki/Nipple) —who is seen to be fellating (/wiki/Fellatio) an ornate glass perfume bottle. "Water Odyssey" sequence [ edit ] In the penultimate sequence in the film, Sasha Vinni and Nikie St. Gilles appear as mermaids (/wiki/Mermaid) outfitted with tail fins. They dispense with the mermaid accessories and engage in lesbian activities. As in the "Blue Siren" sequence, some of the cunnilingus (/wiki/Cunnilingus) activity is filmed underwater. "Diablo d'Inferno" sequence [ edit ] The " Diablo (/wiki/Devil) d'Inferno (/wiki/Hell) " sequence features Anna Romero as a " She (/wiki/Supernatural_beings_in_Slavic_folklore) - Devil (/wiki/Devil) " in a fetishistic (/wiki/Fetish_fashion) red latex (/wiki/Latex) devil's costume—outfitted with red latex horns, red latex ballet boots (/wiki/Ballet_boots) , open-bottomed red latex hot pants (/wiki/Hot_pants) , and a long red latex forked devil's tail protruding from a flared butt plug (/wiki/Butt_plug) attachment that is embedded in her rectum (/wiki/Rectum) . (Although Sasha Vinni appears in this costume on the U.S. DVD cover (/wiki/File:Zazel-cover.jpg) [see image above], only Anna Romero wears it in the film.) During this sequence the lower portion of the screen is filled with digitally superimposed flames for atmospheric effect. The She-Devil sneaks up behind Zazel, who is sitting at a table airbrushing (/wiki/Airbrush) a design of the She-Devil and her costume, and "decapitates" the artist with a scythe (/wiki/Scythe) . The She-Devil crawls around Zazel's freshly "severed" head, now placed upon the table. The She-Devil grips the shaft of her latex tail and pushes the butt plug attachment deeper into her anus before thrusting her vulva (/wiki/Vulva) into Zazel's face. The She-Devil French kisses (/wiki/French_kiss) Zazel's head and continues to anally masturbate (/wiki/Anal_masturbation) with the tail/butt plug. The scene continues with the She-Devil (now with the tail/butt plug removed) having sex with a " Gargoyle (/wiki/Gargoyle) " (Kevin James) and a " Demon Man (/wiki/Demon) " (Drew Reese), which ends with a vaginal/anal double penetration (/wiki/List_of_sex_positions#Multiple_penetration) . Home media [ edit ] In 2008, Cal Vista re-released Zazel on DVD (/wiki/DVD) in a re-mastered (/wiki/Remastered) high-definition (/wiki/High-definition_video) widescreen (/wiki/Widescreen) two-disc edition; a Blu-ray (/wiki/Blu-ray_Disc) edition followed soon after. The bonus features included a deleted scene as well as a preview of Zazel 2 . Cast [ edit ] Sasha Vinni - Zazel/Blue Siren/Tiger/Brunette Musketeer/Female Angel/Mermaid Grace Harlow - Water Nymph Lene Hefner - Tattooed Girl Devin Deray - Tattoo Artist Anna Romero - Redhead Musketeer/Body Double for Female Angel/She-Devil Brooke Lane - Blonde Musketeer/Female Angel Antonio Valentino - Winged Male Angel Helena - Female Angel Gina LaMarca - Seductress Jon Severini - Man Nikie St. Gilles - Blonde Beauty Mermaid Kevin James - Gargoyle/Body Double for Winged Male Angel Drew Reese - Demon Man Awards [ edit ] Zazel is listed as "26th" in "The 101 Greatest Adult Tapes Of All Time" by AVN Magazine (/wiki/AVN_(magazine)) . [12] (#cite_note-AVN2001-12) Zazel – Winner – Seven AVN Awards (1998) (/wiki/AVN_Awards#Winners_1995–1999) : [13] (#cite_note-AVN1998-13) Best All-Sex Film Best Group Scene Best Cinematography Best Art Direction Best Editing ( James Avalon (/wiki/James_Avalon) ) Best Overall Marketing Campaign Best Selling Tape of the Year Zazel – Winner – Hot d'Or Award (1998) (/wiki/Hot_d%27Or) : [14] (#cite_note-archive1998-14) Best New American Director ( Philip Mond (/wiki/Philip_Mond) ) Zazel – Winner – AVN Award (2009) (/wiki/AVN_Awards#Winners_2005–2009) : [15] (#cite_note-AVN2009-15) Best Classic Release (Two-Disc DVD: HD (/wiki/High_Definition_video) Widescreen (/wiki/Widescreen) Re-Mastered (/wiki/Remastered) ) See also [ edit ] The following listing includes directors known for similar adult erotic films (/wiki/Erotic_photography) : Andrew Blake (/wiki/Andrew_Blake_(director)) Fashion photography (/wiki/Fashion_photography) Glamour photography (/wiki/Glamour_photography) Helmut Newton (/wiki/Helmut_Newton) James Avalon (/wiki/James_Avalon) Mario Salieri (/wiki/Mario_Salieri) Michael Ninn (/wiki/Michael_Ninn) Radley Metzger (aka "Henry Paris") (/wiki/Radley_Metzger) Tinto Brass (/wiki/Tinto_Brass) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Playboy (/wiki/Playboy) , May 1997, p. 25. ^ (#cite_ref-PH-SashaVinni-iafd_2-0) Staff (21 December 2014). "IAFD - Zazel (1997)" (https://www.iafd.com/title.rme/title=Zazel/year=1997/Zazel.htm) . Internet Adult Film Database (/wiki/Internet_Adult_Film_Database) . Retrieved 21 December 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-AA-2014_3-0) Moore, Jeremy (2014). "ZTSOL means 'Zazel The Scent Of Love' (http://www.allacronyms.com/ZTSOL/Zazel_The_Scent_Of_Love) " (http://www.allacronyms.com/ZTSOL/Zazel_The_Scent_Of_Love) . AllAcronyms.com . Retrieved 31 December 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-FM-2016_4-0) Staff (2016). "Movie Review: Zazel: The Scent of Love's Gina LaMarca - Penthouse Pet Gina LaMarca was cast in Philip Mond's erotic masterpiece Zazel: The Scent of Love" (https://filthy.media/zazel-the-scent-of-loves-gina-lamarca) . vocal.media . Retrieved 28 January 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-TheMagus_5-0) "The Magus, Book I: The Celestial Intelligencer: Chapter XXVIII" (http://www.sacred-texts.com/grim/magus/ma150.htm) . Sacred-Text.com . Retrieved 4 August 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-CrystalLinks_6-0) "Saturn in Mythology" (http://www.crystalinks.com/saturn.mythology.html) . CrystalLinks.com . Retrieved 3 August 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-TC-20170308_7-0) Beyer, Catherine (8 March 2017). "Planetary Spirit Sigils - 01 Spirit of Saturn" (https://www.thoughtco.com/planetary-spirit-sigils-4123081) . ThoughtCo.com . Retrieved 3 August 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-HP-1998_8-0) "Angelic Beings" (https://web.archive.org/web/20180722154808/http://hafapea.com/angelpages/angels7.html) . Hafapea.com . 1998. Archived from the original (http://hafapea.com/angelpages/angels7.html) on 22 July 2018 . Retrieved 5 August 2018 . a Solomonic angel of love rituals ^ (#cite_ref-PH-SashaVinni-pm_9-0) Staff (2014). "Penthouse Magazine - Sasha Vinni" (http://penthouse.com/vodhbs/model/17974/view.html) . Penthouse (/wiki/Penthouse_(magazine)) . Retrieved 20 December 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-PH-GinaLaMarca_10-0) Staff (2014). "Penthouse Magazine - Gina La Marca" (https://web.archive.org/web/20150501060032/http://penthouse.com/vodhbs/model/17839/view.html) . Penthouse (/wiki/Penthouse_(magazine)) . Archived from the original (http://penthouse.com/vodhbs/model/17839/view.html) on 1 May 2015 . Retrieved 20 December 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-PH-NikieStGiles_11-0) Staff (2014). "Penthouse Magazine - Nikie St. Gilles" (http://penthouse.com/vodhbs/model/6687/view.html) . Penthouse (/wiki/Penthouse_(magazine)) . Retrieved 20 December 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-AVN2001_12-0) AVN Staff (August 2001). "The 101 Greatest Adult Tapes Of All Time" (https://web.archive.org/web/20011004222843/http://www.adultvideonews.com/cover/otc0801_03.html) . AVN (/wiki/AVN_(magazine)) . Archived from the original (http://www.adultvideonews.com/cover/otc0801_03.html) on 4 October 2001 . Retrieved 16 December 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-AVN1998_13-0) AVN Staff (January 1998). "The 1998 AVN Award Winners" (https://web.archive.org/web/20120316014832/http://avnawards.avn.com/past-shows/past-winners/1998/) . AVN (/wiki/AVN_(magazine)) . Archived from the original (http://avnawards.avn.com/past-shows/past-winners/1998/) on 16 March 2012 . Retrieved 16 December 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-archive1998_14-0) Staff (25 August 2007). "Hot d'Or 1998 Winners" (https://web.archive.org/web/20070825141007/http://www.hotdor.org/hot-dor-1998-winners.htm) . Archived from the original (http://www.hotdor.org/hot-dor-1998-winners.htm) on 25 August 2007 . Retrieved 18 December 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-AVN2009_15-0) AVN Staff (January 2009). "The 2009 AVN Award Winners" (https://web.archive.org/web/20120608085344/http://avnawards.avn.com/past-shows/past-winners/2009/) . AVN (/wiki/AVN_(magazine)) . Archived from the original (http://avnawards.avn.com/past-shows/past-winners/2009/) on 8 June 2012 . Retrieved 16 December 2014 . External links [ edit ] Zazel - Official Website (2007) (archives: 1 (https://web.archive.org/web/20071020024725/http://www.zazel.com/) + 2 (https://archive.today/20071020024725/http://www.zazel.com/) ) Zazel at IMDb (/wiki/IMDb_(identifier)) ( reviews: 1 (https://web.archive.org/web/20120828011304/http://www.zazel.com/home.html) + 2 (https://www.imdb.com/review/rw0555608/) ) Zazel at the Adult Film Database (/wiki/Adult_Film_Database) Zazel - Detailed Description (http://www.adultdvdtalk.com/reviews/read_review.dlt/sku=1279/zazel.htm) Zazel – Video Trailer (01:48) on YouTube (/wiki/YouTube_video_(identifier)) Portals (/wiki/Wikipedia:Contents/Portals) : Art (/wiki/Portal:Art) Fashion (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Film (/wiki/Portal:Film) Society (/wiki/Portal:Society) United States (/wiki/Portal:United_States) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐65cd9779b7‐qrt67 Cached time: 20240722090906 Cache expiry: 3600 Reduced expiry: true Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.445 seconds Real time usage: 0.615 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 2322/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 46052/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 4393/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 18/100 Expensive parser function count: 10/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 58352/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.270/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 6879045/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 543.701 1 -total 28.26% 153.635 1 Template:Reflist 24.85% 135.136 14 Template:Cite_web 15.04% 81.782 1 Template:Infobox_film 12.29% 66.804 1 Template:Infobox 10.15% 55.163 1 Template:Short_description 9.92% 53.921 1 Template:IMDb_title 8.92% 48.490 1 Template:Long_plot 8.45% 45.948 1 Template:Ambox 7.39% 40.160 1 Template:Distinguish Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:2712122-0!canonical and timestamp 20240722090906 and revision id 1223220860. Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Zazel:_The_Scent_of_Love&oldid=1223220860 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Zazel:_The_Scent_of_Love&oldid=1223220860) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : 1997 films (/wiki/Category:1997_films) 1990s erotic films (/wiki/Category:1990s_erotic_films) 1997 LGBT-related films (/wiki/Category:1997_LGBT-related_films) American erotic films (/wiki/Category:American_erotic_films) American LGBT-related films (/wiki/Category:American_LGBT-related_films) Bisexuality-related films (/wiki/Category:Bisexuality-related_films) 1990s English-language films (/wiki/Category:1990s_English-language_films) Films about sexuality (/wiki/Category:Films_about_sexuality) Lesbian-related films (/wiki/Category:Lesbian-related_films) 1990s American films (/wiki/Category:1990s_American_films) Hidden categories: Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description is different from Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_is_different_from_Wikidata) Use dmy dates from December 2014 (/wiki/Category:Use_dmy_dates_from_December_2014) Template film date with 1 release date (/wiki/Category:Template_film_date_with_1_release_date) Wikipedia articles with plot summary needing attention from February 2020 (/wiki/Category:Wikipedia_articles_with_plot_summary_needing_attention_from_February_2020) All Wikipedia articles with plot summary needing attention (/wiki/Category:All_Wikipedia_articles_with_plot_summary_needing_attention) Articles using Template:Adult Film Database movie (/wiki/Category:Articles_using_Template:Adult_Film_Database_movie)

Long loose garment worn by some Muslim women Not to be confused with Jellabiya (/wiki/Jellabiya) . Not to be confused with Djellaba (/wiki/Djellaba) . This article contains too many or overly lengthy quotations (/wiki/Wikipedia:Manual_of_Style#Quotations) . Please help summarize the quotations (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Jilb%C4%81b&action=edit) . Consider transferring direct quotations to Wikiquote (https://en.wikiquote.org/wiki/) or excerpts to Wikisource (https://en.wikisource.org/wiki/) . ( November 2023 ) Part of a series (/wiki/Category:Islamic_female_clothing) on Islamic (/wiki/Islam) female (/wiki/Women_in_Islam) dress (/wiki/Islamic_clothing) Types (/wiki/Types_of_hijab) Abaya (/wiki/Abaya) Al-amira (/wiki/Al-amira) Battoulah (/wiki/Battoulah) Boshiya (/wiki/Boshiya) Burkini (/wiki/Burkini) Burqa (/wiki/Burqa) Çarşaf (/wiki/%C3%87ar%C5%9Faf) Chador (/wiki/Chador) Haik (/wiki/Haik_(garment)) Hijab (/wiki/Hijab) Jilbaab Kerudung (/wiki/Kerudung) Kimeshek (/wiki/Kimeshek) Khimar (/wiki/Khimar) Kurhars (/wiki/Kurhars) Mukena (/wiki/Mukena) Niqaab (/wiki/Niq%C4%81b) Paranja (/wiki/Paranja) Safseri (/wiki/Safseri) Selendang (/wiki/Selendang) Shayla (/wiki/Shayla) Tudong (/wiki/Tudong) Yashmak (/wiki/Yashmak) Practice and law by country (/wiki/Hijab_by_country) Australia (/wiki/Burka_ban_in_Australia) Britain (/wiki/British_debate_over_veils) Canada (/wiki/Islamic_veiling_practices_by_country#Canada) Egypt (/wiki/Niq%C4%81b_in_Egypt) France (/wiki/Islamic_scarf_controversy_in_France) Indonesia (/wiki/Women_in_Indonesia#National_law_and_sharia) Iran (/wiki/Hijab_in_Iran) Pakistan (/wiki/Women_in_Pakistan#Culture) Saudi Arabia (/wiki/Women%27s_rights_in_Saudi_Arabia#Hijab_and_dress_code) Taliban Afghanistan (/wiki/Taliban_treatment_of_women#Gender_policies) Turkey (/wiki/Headscarf_controversy_in_Turkey) Concepts Andaruni (/wiki/Andaruni) Awrah (/wiki/Intimate_parts_in_Islam) Fahisha (/wiki/Fahisha) Gender segregation (/wiki/Islam_and_gender_segregation) Haya (/wiki/Haya_(Islam)) Purdah (/wiki/Purdah) Zenana (/wiki/Zenana) Other Hijabophobia (/wiki/Hijabophobia) Hujum (/wiki/Hujum) Kashf-e hijab (/wiki/Kashf-e_hijab) My Stealthy Freedom (/wiki/My_Stealthy_Freedom) Wimple (/wiki/Wimple) World Hijab Day (/wiki/World_Hijab_Day) v t e The term jilbāb (also jilbaab , jubbah or jilaabah ) ( Arabic (/wiki/Arabic_language) : جِلْبَاب ) refers to any long and loose-fit coat or outer garment (/wiki/Garment) worn by some Muslim (/wiki/Muslim) women. Wearers believe that this definition of jilbāb fulfills the Quranic (/wiki/Quran) choice for a hijab (/wiki/Hijab) . The jilbāb is also known as chador (/wiki/Chador) by Persian (/wiki/Persian_language) speakers in Iran (/wiki/Iran) and Afghanistan (/wiki/Afghanistan) . The modern jilbāb covers the entire body. Some women will also cover the hands with gloves and the face along with a niqāb (/wiki/Niq%C4%81b) . In recent years, a short visor is often included to protect the face from the tropical sun. Qur'an and hadith [ edit ] Part of a series (/wiki/Category:Islam) on Islamic culture (/wiki/Islamic_culture) Architecture (/wiki/Islamic_architecture) Azerbaijani (/wiki/Architecture_of_Azerbaijan) Indo-Islamic (/wiki/Indo-Islamic_architecture) Indonesian (/wiki/Mosque_architecture_in_Indonesia) Moorish (/wiki/Moorish_architecture) Ottoman (/wiki/Ottoman_architecture) Persian (/wiki/Iranian_architecture) Somali (/wiki/Somali_architecture) Sudano-Sahelian (/wiki/Sudano-Sahelian_architecture) Tatar (/wiki/Tatar_mosque) Swahili (/wiki/Swahili_architecture) Yemeni (/wiki/Architecture_of_Yemen) Art (/wiki/Islamic_art) Arabian carpet (/wiki/Arabian_carpet) Azerbaijani carpet (/wiki/Azerbaijani_rug) Batik (/wiki/Batik) Calligraphy (/wiki/Islamic_calligraphy) Damask (/wiki/Damask) Embroidery (/wiki/Islamic_embroidery) Ikat (/wiki/Ikat) Iznik pottery (/wiki/Iznik_pottery) Khatam (/wiki/Khatam) Kilim (/wiki/Kilim) Miniature (/wiki/Islamic_art#Painting) Oriental rug (/wiki/Oriental_rug) Paan dan (/wiki/Paan_dan) Persian carpet (/wiki/Persian_carpet) Soumak (/wiki/Soumak) Suzani (/wiki/Suzani_(textile)) Tapis (/wiki/Tapis_(Indonesian_weaving_style)) Turkmen rug (/wiki/Turkmen_rug) Turkish carpet (/wiki/Anatolian_rug) Zardozi (/wiki/Zardozi) Clothing (/wiki/Islamic_clothing) Abaya (/wiki/Abaya) Agal (/wiki/Agal_(accessory)) Boubou (/wiki/Boubou_(clothing)) Burqa (/wiki/Burqa) Chador (/wiki/Chador) Hijab (/wiki/Hijab) Headscarf (/wiki/Headscarf) Jilbab Jellabiya (/wiki/Jellabiya) Kaftan (/wiki/Kaftan) Kameez (/wiki/Kameez) Keffiyeh (/wiki/Keffiyeh) Kupiah (/wiki/Kupiah) Niqāb (/wiki/Niq%C4%81b) Salwar (/wiki/Salwar) Songkok (/wiki/Songkok) Taqiya (/wiki/Taqiyah_(cap)) Thawb (/wiki/Thawb) Holidays (/wiki/Islamic_holidays) Arba'een (/wiki/Arba%27een) al-Ghadir (/wiki/Eid_al-Ghadir) Chaand Raat (/wiki/Chaand_Raat) al-Fitr (/wiki/Eid_al-Fitr) al-Adha (/wiki/Eid_al-Adha) Imamat Day (/wiki/Imamat_Day) New Year (/wiki/Islamic_New_Year) al-Qadr (/wiki/Laylat_al-Qadr) Mawlid (/wiki/Mawlid) Ramadan (/wiki/Ramadan) Bara’at (/wiki/Laylat_al_Bara%27at) Raghaib (/wiki/Laylat_al-Raghaib) Literature (/wiki/Islamic_literature) Arabic (/wiki/Arabic_literature) Azerbaijani (/wiki/Azerbaijani_literature) Bengali (/wiki/Bengali_literature) Crimean Tatar (/wiki/Crimean_Tatar_literature) Gambian (/wiki/Gambian_literature) Hausa (/wiki/Hausa_literature) Indonesian (/wiki/Indonesian_literature) ( Javanese (/wiki/Javanese_literature) ) Kashmiri (/wiki/Literature_of_Kashmir) Kazakh (/wiki/Kazakh_literature) Kurdish (/wiki/Kurdish_literature) Kyrgyz (/wiki/Kyrgyz_literature) Malaysian (/wiki/Malaysian_literature) ( Malay (/wiki/Malays_(ethnic_group)#Literature) ) Malian (/wiki/Malian_literature) Nigerian (/wiki/Nigerian_literature) Pashto (/wiki/Pashto_literature_and_poetry) Persian (/wiki/Persian_literature) Punjabi (/wiki/Punjabi_literature) Sindhi (/wiki/Sindhi_literature) Somali (/wiki/Somali_literature) South Asian (/wiki/South_Asian_literature) Tajik (/wiki/Tajik_literature) Tatar (/wiki/Tatar_literature) Turkish (/wiki/Turkish_literature) Turkmen (/wiki/Turkmen_literature) Urdu (/wiki/Urdu_literature) Uyghur (/wiki/Uyghur_literature) Uzbek (/wiki/Uzbek_literature) Music (/wiki/Islamic_music) Ashik (/wiki/Ashik) Daf (/wiki/Daf) Dastgah (/wiki/Dastgah) Gamelan (/wiki/Gamelan) Gendang beleq (/wiki/Gendang_beleq) Ghazal (/wiki/Ghazal) Haḍra (/wiki/Ha%E1%B8%8Dra) Hamd (/wiki/Hamd) Jari (/wiki/Jarigan) Madih nabawi (/wiki/Madih_nabawi) Mappilappattu (/wiki/Mappila_songs) Maqam (/wiki/Arabic_maqam) Mugam (/wiki/Mugham) Naʽat (/wiki/Na%CA%BDat) Nasheed (/wiki/Nasheed) Noha (/wiki/Noha) Qawwali (/wiki/Qawwali) Sufi (/wiki/Sufi_music) Talempong (/wiki/Talempong) Tambourine (/wiki/Tambourine) Theatre (/wiki/Islamic_theatre) Bangsawan (/wiki/Bangsawan) Cem (/wiki/Cem_(Alevism)) Karagöz and Hacivat (/wiki/Karag%C3%B6z_and_Hacivat) Sama (/wiki/Sama_(Sufism)) Ta'zieh (/wiki/Ta%27zieh) Wayang (/wiki/Wayang) Islam portal (/wiki/Portal:Islam) v t e A mention of the plural term of jilbāb , jalabib , is found in the Qur'an (/wiki/Qur%27an) , verse 33:59 (Surah Al-Ahzab (/wiki/Al-Ahzab) ). A popular translation by Yusuf Ali (/wiki/Abdullah_Yusuf_Ali) of the transliterated Arabic goes: Yā 'ay-yuha n-Nabiy-yu qul li'azwājika wabanātika wa nisā'i l-mu'minīna yudnīna 'alayhin-na min jalābībihin-na; dhālika adnā an yu'rafna falā yu'dhayn. Wakāna l-lāhu Ghafūra(n) r-Rahīmā(n) O Prophet! Tell thy wives and daughters, and the believing women, that they should cast their [ jalabib ] (Jilbabs) over their persons (when abroad): that is most convenient, that they should be known (as such) and not molested. And Allah is Oft-Forgiving, Most Merciful. This is the following from the Quran which explains how a Muslim woman must act and dress: Tell the believing men that they shall subdue their eyes (and not stare at the women), and to maintain their chastity. This is purer for them. God is fully Cognizant of everything they do. And tell the believing women to subdue their eyes, and maintain their chastity. They shall not reveal any parts of their bodies, except that which necessarily appears thereof. They shall cover their chests, and shall not relax this code in the presence of other than their husbands, their fathers, the fathers of their husbands, their sons, the sons of their husbands, their brothers, the sons of their brothers, the sons of their sisters, other women, the male servants or employees whose sexual drive has been nullified, or the children who have not reached puberty. They shall not strike their feet when they walk in order to shake and reveal certain details of their bodies. All of you shall repent to God, O you believers, that you may succeed. — Quran 24:30–31 A number of hadith (/wiki/Hadith) commenting on the above verse of the Qur'an (33:59) mention the jilbāb . Narrated Umm Salamah, Ummul Mu'minin: When the verse "That they should cast their outer garments over their persons" was revealed, the women of Ansar came out as if they had crows over their heads by wearing outer garments. — Sunan Abi Dawud, Book 33, Number #4090 (Classified as 'Sahih' by Al-Albani) Narrated Umm Atiyya: We were ordered to bring out our menstruating women and screened women to the religious gatherings and invocation of the Muslims on the two Eid festivals. These menstruating women were to keep away from the musalla. A woman asked, "O Messenger of Allah! What about one who does not have a jilbab ?". He said, "Let her borrow the jilbab of her companion". — Sahih Bukhari, Book 8, #347 Definition and extent [ edit ] Women wearing the traditional jilbāb in the Medina quarter (/wiki/Medina_quarter) in Essaouira (/wiki/Essaouira) , Morocco (/wiki/Morocco) . Since there are no pictures of 7th-century jilbāb , nor any surviving garments, it is not at all clear if the modern jilbāb is the same garment as that referred to in the Qur'an (/wiki/Qur%27an) . In general terms, jilbāb is a garment/sheet that is worn on the head, draped around the body and that totally covers the body of the woman. The root of the word "Jilbab" itself is [جلب]. According to Mu'jam Maqayees Al-Lugha (/w/index.php?title=Mu%27jam_Maqayees_Al-Lugha&action=edit&redlink=1) by Ibn Faris (/wiki/Ibn_Faris) , the root has two meanings: [Two meanings]: One of them is the arrival with something from place to place, and the other is something that covers something... [1] (#cite_note-1) The word "Jilbab" expresses both of these meanings, as the outer garment itself is used to cover from head to toe, hence the arrival with something [i.e., the cloth] from place [the head] to place [the feet]. It is also used to cover a woman, hence its secondary meaning. The etymology of the word "Jilbab" is exaggerated. The word's Maṣdar is "jalbeb" [جلْبَب], and there's a long vowel alif (/wiki/Arabic_alphabet) in the middle of the word to add emphasis to the meaning. Due to this emphasis from the vowel, the word then linguistically refers to a full-body cover, or a one-piece that covers the entire body and does not expose even a bit of it. This is also why past scholars, such as Ibn Hazm (/wiki/Ibn_Hazm) , the great Zahiri (/wiki/Zahiri_school) jurist, described the Jilbab as something that covers the entire body: ...The jilbab , in the Arabic language, with which the Messenger of God, may God bless him and grant him peace, addressed us [i.e., the same Arabic that was spoken by him and in which the Quran was revealed, namely Classical Arabic (/wiki/Classical_Arabic) ], is what covers the entire body, not just some of it [or a part of it]... [2] (#cite_note-2) According to Al-Shawkani (/wiki/Al-Shawkani) , another famous jurist that denied Qiyas (/wiki/Qiyas) and had Zahiri (/wiki/Zahiri_school) leanings, he relates in his book Fath Al-Qadeer (/wiki/Al-Shawkani) on his commentary of Quran 33:59 the opinions of some scholars on the extent of the Jilbab. It is obvious that some pre-modern scholars don't take the linguistic approach when defining the Jilbab: ...Al-Jawhari said: It [the Jilbab] is a Milhafa [a bed cover that is used to cover the body]. It is also said that it is a Qanna' [something that covers all or part of the face to hide it]. It is also said that it is a garment that covers a woman's body completely, as is affirmed in an authentic Hadith from Umm Atiyyah , that she said: "Oh, Messenger of God! One of us [from amongst the women] do not have a jilbab", so he said, "Let her sister clothe her from her Jilbab."... Al-Wahidi said: "The commentators [in defining the Jilbab] said: 'The women must cover their faces and heads except for one eye'"... Al-Hasan said: "It [the Jilbab] covers half of the face"... [3] (#cite_note-3) What is interesting are the views of the Zahiri (/wiki/Zahiri_school) jurists, or at least those who were Zahiri (/wiki/Zahiri_school) -leaning. According to both Al-Shawkani (/wiki/Al-Shawkani) and Ibn Hazm (/wiki/Ibn_Hazm) , the face and hands of the woman are not considered Awrah (/wiki/Intimate_parts_in_Islam) . However, when interpreting Quran 33:59, Al-Shawkani (/wiki/Al-Shawkani) is of the view that, although a woman's face and hands aren't Awrah (/wiki/Intimate_parts_in_Islam) , they still have to be covered with the Jilbab. Ibn Hazm (/wiki/Ibn_Hazm) implies the same view with his interpretation of the jilbab, although he never fully and clearly explained if a woman's face and hands should be covered with it. Al-Shawkani (/wiki/Al-Shawkani) was of the view that a woman must cover her face with a Jilbab in front of non-Mahram (/wiki/Mahram) men, and he takes this from a Hadith about pilgrimage and comments about its meaning. He also provides the views of both Ahmad ibn Hanbal (/wiki/Ahmad_ibn_Hanbal) and Al-Shafi'i (/wiki/Al-Shafi%27i) : ...[A'isha said:] "The caravan would pass by us while we were with the Messenger of God, may God bless him and grant him peace, in a state of consecration (i.e., during the pilgrimage). When they came close to us, one of us would lower her jilbab from her head over her face, and when they passed by us, we would uncover it."... [Al-Shawkani comments:] Ahmad (/wiki/Ahmad_ibn_Hanbal) held on to this Hadith, and he said: "She should only let it hang down over her head", and he used this hadith as evidence that it is permissible for a woman, when she needs to cover her face from men passing closely by her, to hang her garment over her head onto her face. Because a woman needs to cover her face , it is not absolutely forbidden for her to cover it [during Ihram, when covering with the Niqab, or full-face veil, is forbidden for a woman], unlike the Awrah (/wiki/Intimate_parts_in_Islam) , but when she lets it hang down, the garment should be away from her face so that it does not touch her skin. This is what the followers of Imam Shafi'i (/wiki/Al-Shafi%27i) and others said. The apparent [ Zahir/literal ] meaning of the hadith contradicts this because the hanging garment is almost free from skin being touched. If avoidance was a condition, the Prophet - peace be upon him - would have clarified it... [4] (#cite_note-4) Also, in Nayl Al-Awtar (/wiki/Nayl_al-Awtar) , Al-Shawkani (/wiki/Al-Shawkani) made it clear that there was agreement between Muslims that Muslim women shouldn't go out uncovered: The agreement of the Muslims to prevent women from going out with uncovered faces... [5] (#cite_note-5) Elsewhere, when asked about when women should cover their faces, Al-Shawkani (/wiki/Al-Shawkani) said: As for covering the face of a woman, they used to uncover their faces when it was not obligatory to cover them, and they would cover them when there was someone from whom it was obligatory to cover . [6] (#cite_note-6) Based on the Hadith provided by Al-Shawkani (/wiki/Al-Shawkani) with Aisha and the oncoming caravan, it seems that the jilbab has an opening for both the hands and the face, as the women were able to bring down a portion of their jilbabs down over their faces, and their faces were exposed. This is also what is implied in the command in verse 59 of Surah Al-Ahzab (/wiki/Al-A%E1%B8%A5z%C4%81b) : O Prophet! Tell your wives and your daughters and the women of the believers to draw close [ yudneena ] over themselves [' alayhinna ] some [ min ] of their outer garments [ jalaabibihinna ]. That is more suitable that they will be known and not be abused. And ever is Allah Forgiving and Merciful. Here is what the verse means according to the words bolded: "Yudneena" comes from the word "daniya", which comes from the root "d-n-y" [دني]. According to Ibn Faris (/wiki/Ibn_Faris) in his lexicon Mu'jam Maqayees Al-Lugha (/w/index.php?title=Mu%27jam_Maqayees_Al-Lugha&action=edit&redlink=1) , the root means "the bringing close of something". "'Alayhinna" means "on them" or "over them". In this verse, it is implied that whatever is being brought close is being brought close from the head. "Min" here in this verse means "some [of]" or "portion [of]". This is linked with the next word, which is: "Jalaabibihinna", which is the plural of Jilbab, which is the full-body one-piece. The verse implies that women were wearing jilbabs before its revelation, but they were showing parts of themselves to men. Thus, whatever was shown was to be covered, and whatever was shown was from the head down. Whatever of the jilbaab was uncovering the woman was to be drawn close to what was uncovering them, so as to conceal their bodies fully. All of this refers to the face, and it is clear that the Islamic jilbaab has a face opening so that a woman can cover herself whenever a non-Mahram (/wiki/Mahram) man passes by. Some scholars and commentators say that a woman must cover everything except for one eye so that she can see, such as Ibn Abbas (/wiki/Ibn_Abbas) , Al-Jalalayn, 'Ubaydah As-Salmani, Abdullah ibn Salam (/wiki/Abd_Allah_ibn_Salam) , and others. However, there is no authentic report from the Prophet Muhammad proving this, and this led to the linguistic meaning being a legitimate interpretation the jilbab. Some modern Muslims insist that the contemporary jilbāb and the garment described in the Qur'an and the hadith are exactly the same, and that the Qur'an therefore requires the believer to wear these garments. Some scholars say that a veil is not compulsory in front of blind (/wiki/Blindness) , asexual (/wiki/Asexuality) or gay men (/wiki/Male_homosexuality) . [7] (#cite_note-7) The Encyclopedia of Islam identifies over a hundred terms for dress parts, many of which are used for "veiling". [8] (#cite_note-8) Some of these and related Arabic terms are burqu, 'abayah, tarhah, bumus, jilbab, jellabah, hayik, milayah, gallabiyyah, dishdasha, gargush, gins', mungub, lithma, yashmik, habarah, izar . A few terms refer to items used as face covers only. These are qina, burqu, niqab, lithma . Others refer to headcovers that are situationally held by the individual to cover part of the face. These are khimar, sitara, abayah or inrrah . [9] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEEl_Guindi19997-9) Difference between jilbab and other clothing [ edit ] It is incorrect to say that the jilbab is one particular style, and different cultures have developed their own variations and styles of the one-piece. However, in recent times, the jilbab has lost its original meaning and fewer women wear it. This has led to confusion about what popular modern styles are considered to fall under the category of jilbab. Most do not, including the following: Hijab – According traditionally to Islamic jurisprudence, the word hijab is just a general term that means the dress code for women in the presence of non- mahram (/wiki/Mahram) men. Nowadays, it is in reference to the headscarf that covers the hair and neck. This popular style has received controversy due to its lack of concealment for what is prescribed. This is not considered a jilbab, as it does not cover the body completely. Khimar – Linguistically, the word khimar just generally referred to a cover. However, in the Islamic context, it refers to a headcover that extends to the cleavage and covers the hair, neck, sides and back of the head. It is an issue of dispute as to whether the khimar that is commanded should cover the face as well. Nevertheless, the khimar is exclusive to the head, and cannot be considered a jilbab. Niqab – The niqab (/wiki/Niqab) is a specific style head covering that covers everything on the head except the eyes. Unlike what others may claim, the Niqab is not something that is considered cultural, but has basis in Islamic sources and law. The majority of scholars from the Hanbali school (/wiki/Hanbali_school) , for example, say that it is mandatory. However, it does not fall under jilbab, as it is only a head covering. Chador – The chador (/wiki/Chador) is a Persian garment that stretches from head to toe and covers everything of a woman except for the face and hands. Although this is similar to the jilbab, it does not fall under its category, as it always uncovers the face, and there is not an opening that draws it down over the face. The Burqa . It is considered an issue of dispute as to whether the Burqa is actually a jilbab or not. Some have argued that the Burqa actually comes under the same heading as the Niqab, [10] (#cite_note-10) as there isn't a face opening. Technically, it may linguistically refer to a jilbab, but it lacks the special head opening. As an outer garment [ edit ] According to Islamic law, the jilbab is nothing more than an outer garment to be worn specifically around non-Mahrams (/wiki/Mahram) . An "outer garment" refers to a piece of clothing worn outside of someone's primary clothing [e.g., a jacket over a shirt]. There is nothing wrong in taking it off when alone, or when around other women, or when around her Mahrams (/wiki/Mahram) . Generally, a woman is allowed to wear whatever she wants underneath, but she cannot show anything off to non-Mahrams (/wiki/Mahram) . [11] (#cite_note-11) Sportswear [ edit ] A type of athletic jilbāb was developed by Nike in 2006, [12] (#cite_note-12) allowing women to play volleyball while still respecting a traditional clothing style. [13] (#cite_note-13) In Indonesia [ edit ] In Indonesia (/wiki/Indonesia) , the term jilbāb refers to a headscarf rather than a long and loose overgarment. [14] (#cite_note-14) See also [ edit ] Islam portal (/wiki/Portal:Islam) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Hijab (/wiki/Hijab) Thawb (/wiki/Thawb) Bisht (/wiki/Bisht_(clothing)) Izar (/wiki/Izaar) Shabina Begum (/wiki/Shabina_Begum) Islam and clothing (/wiki/Islam_and_clothing) Notes [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Ibn Faris. Mu'jam Maqayees Al-Lugha . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Ibn Hazm. Kitab al-Muhallā bi'l Athār . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Al-Shawkani. Fath Al-Qadeer . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Al-Shawkani. Nayl Al-Awtar . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Al-Shawkani. Nayl Al-Awtar . pp. 6/114. ^ (#cite_ref-6) Al-Shawkani. Al-Sayr Al-Jarrar . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Queer Spiritual Spaces: Sexuality and Sacred Places - Page 89, Kath Browne, Sally Munt, Andrew K. T. Yip - 2010 ^ (#cite_ref-8) Encyclopedia of Islam 1986: 745–6 ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEEl_Guindi19997_9-0) El Guindi 1999 (#CITEREFEl_Guindi1999) , p. 7. ^ (#cite_ref-10) "Wearing the burqa' during sa'i" (https://islamqa.info/en/answers/155969/wearing-the-burqa-during-sai) . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "هل يلزم المرأة أن تلبس ثيابا تحت الجلباب" (https://www.islamweb.net/ar/fatwa/164339/%D9%87%D9%84-%D9%8A%D9%84%D8%B2%D9%85-%D8%A7%D9%84%D9%85%D8%B1%D8%A3%D8%A9-%D8%A3%D9%86-%D8%AA%D9%84%D8%A8%D8%B3-%D8%AB%D9%8A%D8%A7%D8%A8%D8%A7-%D8%AA%D8%AD%D8%AA-%D8%A7%D9%84%D8%AC%D9%84%D8%A8%D8%A7%D8%A8) . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Muslim girls don sporting jilbabs" (http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/africa/4838480.stm) . 24 March 2006. Archived (https://archive.today/20120726173059/http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/africa/4838480.stm) from the original on 26 July 2012 . Retrieved 11 May 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) Cutraro, Jennifer (27 April 2006). "Muslim Athletic Wear Covers Skin Without Cramping Style" (https://archive.today/20120731111737/http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2006/04/0427_060424_muslim_sports.html?source=rss) . Archived from the original on 31 July 2012 . Retrieved 11 May 2023 . {{ cite news (/wiki/Template:Cite_news) }} : CS1 maint: unfit URL ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_unfit_URL) ) ^ (#cite_ref-14) (Geertz) References [ edit ] El Guindi, Fadwa (1999). Veil: Modesty, Privacy, and Resistance . Berg. Geertz, Clifford (2000). Available Light: Anthropological Reflections on Philosophical Topics . Princeton University Press. 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Southeast Asian traditional clothing Kebaya Javanese (/wiki/Javanese_culture) kebaya is a sheer blouse worn over batik (/wiki/Batik) kemben (/wiki/Kemben) , as shown here worn by Princess Hayu (/wiki/Princess_Hayu) of Yogyakarta (/wiki/Yogyakarta_Sultanate) . Type Traditional upper garment Place of origin Maritime Southeast Asia (/wiki/Maritime_Southeast_Asia) ( Indonesia (/wiki/Indonesia) [1] (#cite_note-Steele-1) [2] (#cite_note-Fashion-History-2) [3] (#cite_note-Annette-3) [4] (#cite_note-Phromsuthirak-4) and Malaysia (/wiki/Malaysia) [3] (#cite_note-Annette-3) [4] (#cite_note-Phromsuthirak-4) [5] (#cite_note-Setiawan-5) [6] (#cite_note-Atelier-6) [7] (#cite_note-Jill-Forshee-7) [8] (#cite_note-Haziyah-8) ) Manufacturer Javanese (/wiki/Javanese_people) and Malay (/wiki/Malay_people) A kebaya [n 1] (#cite_note-9) is an upper garment traditionally worn by women in Southeast Asia (/wiki/Southeast_Asia) , notably in Brunei (/wiki/Brunei) , [9] (#cite_note-MuziumBrunei-10) Indonesia (/wiki/Indonesia) , [10] (#cite_note-LIPI-Kebaya-11) Malaysia (/wiki/Malaysia) , [8] (#cite_note-Haziyah-8) Singapore (/wiki/Singapore) , [11] (#cite_note-Koh-12) and Southern Thailand (/wiki/Southern_Thailand) . [12] (#cite_note-13) It is also worn in parts of southern Philippines (/wiki/Philippines) and Cambodia (/wiki/Cambodia) . [13] (#cite_note-14) [14] (#cite_note-15) Kebaya is an upper garment opened at the front that is traditionally made from lightweight fabrics such as brocade (/wiki/Brocade) , cotton (/wiki/Cotton) , gauze (/wiki/Gauze) , lace (/wiki/Lace) , or voile (/wiki/Voile) and sometimes adorned with embroidery. The front is secured with either buttons, pins, or brooches. The lower garment for the outfit is known as sarong (/wiki/Sarong) , kemben (/wiki/Kemben) or kain , a long piece of cloth wrapped and tucked around the waist or under the armpits, either made out of batik (/wiki/Batik) , ikat (/wiki/Ikat) , songket (/wiki/Songket) or tenun (/wiki/Tenun) . [n 2] (#cite_note-16) Kebaya is officially recognised as the national attire (/wiki/National_costume) and the fashion icon of Indonesia (/wiki/National_costume_of_Indonesia#Kebaya) , [10] (#cite_note-LIPI-Kebaya-11) [15] (#cite_note-JP-Kebaya-17) [16] (#cite_note-Harsianti-18) although it is more popularly worn by Javanese (/wiki/Javanese_people) , Sundanese (/wiki/Sundanese_people) , and Balinese (/wiki/Balinese_people) people. In Malaysia, Singapore, and Brunei, it is recognized as one of its ethnic attires (/wiki/Ethnic_groups_in_Malaysia) especially among Malay (/wiki/Ethnic_Malays) and Peranakan (/wiki/Peranakan) communities; [n 3] (#cite_note-19) the complete outfit is known in these region as "sarong kebaya". [6] (#cite_note-Atelier-6) The styles of sarong kebaya vary from place to place throughout the region. Kebaya has become a Southeast Asian fashion icon, with many Southeast Asian flag carrier airlines, including Singapore Airlines (/wiki/Singapore_Airlines) , Malaysia Airlines (/wiki/Malaysia_Airlines) , Royal Brunei Airlines (/wiki/Royal_Brunei_Airlines) , and Garuda Indonesia (/wiki/Garuda_Indonesia) adopting the traditional clothing as the uniforms for their female flight attendants. [17] (#cite_note-The_Origin_of_the_Kebaya-20) Etymology [ edit ] The link between "kebaya" with " qaba " "a vesture", [18] (#cite_note-Expat-21) [19] (#cite_note-lombard-22) an Arabic term was first established in the Hobson-Jobson (/wiki/Hobson-Jobson) dictionary in 1886. The term was used since the seventh century and was ultimately originated from a Persian (/wiki/Persian_language) word meaning "robe of honour". [20] (#cite_note-Peter-23) [21] (#cite_note-Subrahmanyam-24) Portuguese records published in the 16th and 17th century also noted variations of the term cabaya [n 4] (#cite_note-25) as a Muslim long robe. The term was then introduced to the Malay world (/wiki/Malay_world) and Java (/wiki/Java) through Portuguese intermediary during the 16th century. [22] (#cite_note-26) [23] (#cite_note-Triyanto-27) [24] (#cite_note-28) According to the Kamus Dewan (/wiki/Kamus_Dewan) , a kebaya is defined as a women's long-sleeved dress opened at the front, secured with buttons, pins, or brooches [25] (#cite_note-29) while the Kamus Besar Bahasa Indonesia (/wiki/Great_Dictionary_of_the_Indonesian_Language_of_the_Language_Center) described it as a women's long-sleeved upper garment worn with a long piece of cloth. [26] (#cite_note-30) Although the etymology of kebaya has its origin as a dress worn by both men and women, the modern definition of kebaya in both languages have been narrowed to only refer to the women's dress. History [ edit ] Background [ edit ] From the Middle East [ edit ] There are extensive possibilities of the origin of kebaya with most indicating its roots in the Middle East (/wiki/Middle_East) . The connection between kebaya with Arabic qaba (/wiki/Qaba) , "a long loose jacket" was first established by orientalist Henry Yule (/wiki/Henry_Yule) and Arthur Burnell (/wiki/Arthur_Coke_Burnell) in 1886. The Arabic clothing was known since the seventh century, with historical records even mentioned that the Islamic Prophet Muhammad (/wiki/Prophet_Muhammad) received gifts of aqbiya (plural of qaba ) on several occasions. Scholars attributed that Persian is the ultimate origin of qaba . With the spread of Islam (/wiki/Islam) , the term and clothing was not only known in Arabic but also in Persian, Turkish and Urdu. [20] (#cite_note-Peter-23) Due to its resemblance, many sources stated that kebaya has its origin from Muslim clothing, namely qaba , habaya , al akibiya al turkiyya and djubba . The claim that kebaya may has its origin from the Arab World (/wiki/Arab_World) is highly possible as Islam was firmly established in the Malay world (/wiki/Malay_world) in the 15th century when women began to cover up in reactions to the Islamic dress code. [5] (#cite_note-Setiawan-5) [8] (#cite_note-Haziyah-8) Before Islam, local women dressed with fewer layers because of the hot and humid climate and the pre-Islamic religion of the Malays did not impose such restrictions. [27] (#cite_note-Datin-31) From the Indian Subcontinent and Portuguese [ edit ] Vimaladharmasuriya (/wiki/Vimaladharmasuriya_I_of_Kandy) and Spilbergen (/wiki/Joris_van_Spilbergen) , 1602. Here shown cabaya as an upper body jacket. [28] (#cite_note-Karunaratne-32) The detailed description of cabaya can be seen in the 19th-century Hobson-Jobson (/wiki/Hobson-Jobson) dictionary. [23] (#cite_note-Triyanto-27) The Anglo-Indian dictionary describes cabaya as a word of Asian origin, referring to a surcoat or a long tunic of muslin worn by the Indian upper classes. The term was likely to be introduced into the subcontinent by the Portuguese (/wiki/Portuguese_people) . [20] (#cite_note-Peter-23) Several Portuguese records published in the 16th and 17th century also noted caba , cabaya and cabaia as a Muslim long robe worn by the ruling class of India as well as the Middle East. The earliest use of the word dates to the 1540s when the Portuguese explorer, Fernão Mendes Pinto (/wiki/Fern%C3%A3o_Mendes_Pinto) visited India. It was also mentioned that the Prince Dharmapala (/wiki/Dharmapala_of_Kotte) of Kotte (/wiki/Kingdom_of_Kotte) was the first to be introduced to the cabaya by the Portuguese, where it was worn by the Portuguese royalty during royal occasions. [28] (#cite_note-Karunaratne-32) Later, King Vimaladharmasuriya of Kandy (/wiki/Kingdom_of_Kandy) established it as the upper garment for Sri Lankan royalty signifying the changing of attitudes and loyalty to the Portuguese. [28] (#cite_note-Karunaratne-32) Once Goa was occupied by the Portuguese in 1510, the Portuguese influences extended from the India Subcontinent to the Southeast Asia Archipelago. [29] (#cite_note-artsandculture-33) The term was then introduced to the archipelago to refer to a light cotton surcoat worn by both European men and women. [30] (#cite_note-34) Sultana Khadijah of Johor and an unnamed lady. Here shown long kebaya was used alongside baju kurung (/wiki/Baju_kurung) by Malay royalties, circa 1900. After the capture of Malacca (/wiki/Capture_of_Malacca_(1511)) in 1511, the cabaya worn by the Portuguese settlers in Portuguese Malacca (/wiki/Portuguese_Malacca) (1511–1641) took the fancy of local Malay women, especially in Johore (/wiki/Johor_Sultanate) and the east coast of Malay Peninsula. [4] (#cite_note-Phromsuthirak-4) [6] (#cite_note-Atelier-6) [8] (#cite_note-Haziyah-8) It was popularized by the Chinese Peranakan (/wiki/Peranakan) in Malacca. [9] (#cite_note-MuziumBrunei-10) This perhaps encouraged by their Chinese husbands as this style of clothing was considered appropriate and not that different from Chinese style clothing (/wiki/Chinese_clothing) . [27] (#cite_note-Datin-31) The Malaccan-Portuguese explorer, Manuel Godinho de Erédia (/wiki/Manuel_Godinho_de_Er%C3%A9dia) , even suggests that the wearing of cabayas (plural of cabaya ) were brought to Southeast Asia by Arab and Egyptian merchants as early as 1618. [5] (#cite_note-Setiawan-5) [20] (#cite_note-Peter-23) [31] (#cite_note-Thienny-35) Peter Mundy (/wiki/Peter_Mundy) , a British writer who visited Goa in the 1630s, also stated that women in Malacca dressed similar to women in Goa. [31] (#cite_note-Thienny-35) The influences of the Portuguese and Indian can be observed by the kebaya worn in Malacca, thus the possibilities that the term "cabaya" and the wearing of the dress was introduced to Malacca by the Portuguese (/wiki/Portuguese_people) or Portuguese Eurasians (/wiki/Kristang_people) from India is higher than by the Arabs or Chinese. [20] (#cite_note-Peter-23) [31] (#cite_note-Thienny-35) From Malacca and Majapahit [ edit ] Some sources also stated that kebaya is in fact a "Malay dress", predating the Portuguese arrival in the archipelago. Soon after the Portuguese captured Malacca (/wiki/Malacca_Sultanate) (1400–1511), kebaya emerged as a favourite among Portuguese settlers that led to the adoption of kebaya as one of their attires. [8] (#cite_note-Haziyah-8) Historical evidence also suggests that a substantial number of skilled craftsmen were brought by the Portuguese from Malacca to Cochin as early as Afonso de Albuquerque (/wiki/Afonso_de_Albuquerque) 's return to Cochin and Goa in 1512. [32] (#cite_note-Kavaya1-36) In Cochin, the kavaya thuni was introduced by Portuguese Malays (/wiki/Luso-Asians#Luso-Malay) and Portuguese Chinese (/wiki/Luso-Asians#Luso-Chinese) from Malacca and Macau to local Portuguese Indians (/wiki/Luso-Indian) , many of who were brought there as wives to the Portuguese settlers. [32] (#cite_note-Kavaya1-36) [33] (#cite_note-Kavaya2-37) [34] (#cite_note-38) Besides "kebaya", this style of clothing was also known by the Malays as " baju belah labuh besar " (long baggy dress) [6] (#cite_note-Atelier-6) [8] (#cite_note-Haziyah-8) and by the Peranakans as " baju panjang " (long tunic). [31] (#cite_note-Thienny-35) From Malacca, kebaya made its way to Java, likely to be brought by the Chinese and Portuguese Peranakans [35] (#cite_note-Alessandra-39) [7] (#cite_note-Jill-Forshee-7) and by the 17th century, kebaya was worn by men and women across the Malay Archipelago, even in the Spice Islands (/wiki/Spice_Islands) further east. [20] (#cite_note-Peter-23) Young Kartini (/wiki/Kartini) with her family. Here shown javanese kebaya worn by women of Javanese aristocrats, circa 1890-1904. Some resources also claimed that kebaya originated from Majapahit (/wiki/Majapahit) (1293–1527), as a mean to blend the existing kemben (/wiki/Kemben) , women torso wrap, to be more modest and acceptable as Islamic influence began to grow in coastal Javanese towns. The kebaya perhaps served to provide body coverage to court women and elites in reactions to Islamic strictures on modesty (/wiki/Modest_fashion) . When the Portuguese tried to assume spice trade in Indonesia in the early 16th century, some women in Java already wore kebaya on their upper body. [2] (#cite_note-Fashion-History-2) During this time in Java, kebaya was considered as reserved clothing to be worn only by royalty and nobility. Majapahit (/wiki/Majapahit) was the first that formally adopted the kebaya, [36] (#cite_note-Chavalit-40) and subsequently it has become the official dress of its successors, Cirebon (/wiki/Sultanate_of_Cirebon) (1445–1926), Surakarta (/wiki/Surakarta_Sunanate) (1745–1946) and Yogyakarta (/wiki/Yogyakarta_Sultanate) . [37] (#cite_note-Tempo-Kebaya-41) [38] (#cite_note-Pentasari-42) Nevertheless, the use of kebaya among peasant women in Java only became widespread in the late 18th century when it was encouraged by the Dutch. [2] (#cite_note-Fashion-History-2) [7] (#cite_note-Jill-Forshee-7) Southeast Asia has traded with China, India and the Middle East since the middle of the first millennia, which possibly responsible for the introduction of this style of clothing into the archipelago. Foreign influences have been suggested, such as Chinese Ming (/wiki/Ming_dynasty) tunic (/wiki/Tunic) worn by the Chinese settlers between the 14th to 16th century, [5] (#cite_note-Setiawan-5) possibly led to the creation of kebaya in Java and Malacca. [3] (#cite_note-Annette-3) Concurrently, the emergence of kebaya as the traditional attire of the Javanese and Malays originated from the integration of the style of Chinese Ming (/wiki/Ming_dynasty) , the Arab merchants and the Portuguese settlers. Thus, there are various styles of sarong kebaya throughout Southeast Asia with each named after its famous wearer, place of origin or modification. [3] (#cite_note-Annette-3) Development [ edit ] Lace kebaya [ edit ] A Dutch woman in sarong kebaya, Dutch East Indies, 1920. In the 16th and 17th century, the craft of lacework came to Asia by way of Goa and became popular among the local people of coastal India, Sri Lanka, and Malacca. [29] (#cite_note-artsandculture-33) In Cocos Islands, the Cocos Malays modified the kebaya with European inspired elements especially the frill collar because textiles and clothes were brought by the Clunies-Ross family (/wiki/Clunies-Ross_family) during the early 19th century. [39] (#cite_note-KebayaCocos-43) By the mid-19th century, wearing an outfit consisting of a white lace ornamented kebaya and a lavish batik sarong was regarded as a privilege of the European and Eurasian women in the Dutch East Indies (/wiki/Dutch_East_Indies) [n 5] (#cite_note-44) . [29] (#cite_note-artsandculture-33) In 1872, the Dutch administration issued a rule which required every resident of the colony to wear their ethnic clothing in public areas. The ordinance perhaps served as an effort to differentiate one individual from the others and identify someone of a specific ethnic group. From 1872 until 1920, kebaya had been adopted as the preferred women's attire of the Dutch East Indies (/wiki/Dutch_East_Indies) , either worn by native women, European and Eurasians (/wiki/Indo_people) . [40] (#cite_note-Dutch_Kebaya-45) [41] (#cite_note-46) During this colonial period, the Dutch kebaya flourished in the Dutch East Indies, often using luxurious fabric embellished with imported white lace since it can block the tropics' hot air. On February 10, 1910, the colonial government issued a regulation for the Chinese Peranakan, an "equalization" that led the wealthy Peranakan women to wear kebaya and batik sarong similar to the Dutch and Indo women's. Thus, the Peranakan women began to wear white lace kebaya while the European and Eurasian women who used to prefer this style of kebaya started to shift to European clothing. [29] (#cite_note-artsandculture-33) [40] (#cite_note-Dutch_Kebaya-45) [31] (#cite_note-Thienny-35) Two Peranakan women in long kebayas, Singkep (/wiki/Singkep) , Riau Islands (/wiki/Riau_Islands) . By the early 20th century, the long kebaya [n 6] (#cite_note-47) has evolved and the new "short kebaya", shaped and length above the hip emerged in various colonial centres, mainly in Java (/wiki/Java) and the Straits Settlements (/wiki/Straits_Settlements) [n 7] (#cite_note-48) . During this time, long kebaya was seen as conservative and staid, worn only by the elderly women of the Peranakan community. As an option, the young Peranakans began to modify the form of a long kebaya and turned it into a short kebaya that the Europeans and Eurasians had adopted earlier. [42] (#cite_note-Infopedia-49) The Peranakans would often recycle the fabrics of their long kebayas into short kebayas. [27] (#cite_note-Datin-31) The short kebaya worn by Peranakan is a tighter-fitting sheer blouse as opposed to the loose-fitting, knee-length tunic of its predecessor. [27] (#cite_note-Datin-31) [40] (#cite_note-Dutch_Kebaya-45) The earliest example of a short kebaya worn by the community is the lace kebaya [n 8] (#cite_note-50) . [27] (#cite_note-Datin-31) [40] (#cite_note-Dutch_Kebaya-45) This style is noted with the outstanding use of popular European lace to trim along the front opening hems and sleeves. Similar to a long kebaya, it has no buttons and needs to be fastened with pins or brooches. Even though lace kebaya has existed since at least the early 19th century, worn primarily by the Europeans and Eurasians, but it was only a century later, the Peranakan women began to wear this type of kebaya. Cutwork kebaya [ edit ] A kebaya worn with batik sarong by Peranakan women in the early 20th century. Further transformation of kebaya can also be attributed to European influences. [27] (#cite_note-Datin-31) By the 1910s, the base materials for kebaya began to change from fine white cotton to bright and transparent fabrics such as voile and organdie imported from France and Switzerland. By the 1920s, the German organdie and colourful printed voiles became popular. Through the introduction of European fabrics, kebaya became increasingly luxurious and glamorous while the sarong overflowed with vivid colours. By the 1930s, the kebaya turned to be more colourful, decorated with cutwork, suitable for local ethnic taste. By the late 1930s, the lace kebaya then evolved to cutwork kebaya with decorated scallops and cutwork embroidery at the edge [n 9] (#cite_note-51) as the technological growth began to introduce fabric stencil sewing machines. The widespread use of sewing machines did not only speed up the embroidery process but also opened up more kebaya design possibilities. [31] (#cite_note-Thienny-35) This kebaya style is made by perforating the edging of the kebaya at the front, embroidering it with colourful threads to make it look like lace. It is considered the first kebaya to feature embroidery, an upgraded version of lace kebaya. [27] (#cite_note-Datin-31) Embroidered kebaya [ edit ] By the late 1940s, the cutwork kebaya then evolved to embroidered kebaya, [n 10] (#cite_note-52) the quintessential Nyonya kebaya that is very popular until today. [40] (#cite_note-Dutch_Kebaya-45) The embroidered kebaya is made of plain voile or gauze instead of the printed fabrics of a long kebaya. This style of kebaya stands out for its exquisite stencil that highlighted the beautiful colours of the blouse, [42] (#cite_note-Infopedia-49) [40] (#cite_note-Dutch_Kebaya-45) with famous designs include floral, figural and geometric motifs. [31] (#cite_note-Thienny-35) This style of kebaya started to appear widespread during World War I as the rise in the price of lace led to the adoption of machine embroidery. [29] (#cite_note-artsandculture-33) Although Peranakan kebaya has Javanese and Malay roots, it has evolved into a Peranakan community's distinctive outfit. The development of embroidered kebaya is regarded as a Peranakan identity. [42] (#cite_note-Infopedia-49) The use of sarong kebaya in other Peranakan communities, namely Chetti Melaka (/wiki/Chitty) , Jawi Pekan (/wiki/Jawi_Peranakan) and Kristang (/wiki/Kristang_people) also shows the influence of the Chinese Peranakans which had started to wear the outfit much earlier in the 1920s and 1930s. Nevertheless, there are some slight differences between the kebaya worn by each community. [43] (#cite_note-KebayaChetti-53) [44] (#cite_note-Pillai-54) Independence [ edit ] Brunei [ edit ] There are four types of kebaya worn by women in Brunei, namely kebaya panjang , kebaya labuh , kebaya pendek and kebaya Bandung . Most of the material used for kebaya panjang and kebaya labuh is imported either from Malaysia, Singapore or Indonesia. In contrast with the first two styles, kebaya pendek and kebaya Bandung were introduced to Bruneian much later in the early 1950s, and were popular during the 1960s and 1970s. [9] (#cite_note-MuziumBrunei-10) Indonesia [ edit ] During the colonial time up to the earlier times of the republic, kebaya was the Indonesian women's everyday dress in various regions. The wardrobe collections of elderly Indonesian always included kebaya as daily wear. [16] (#cite_note-Harsianti-18) After Indonesian independence from the Dutch, Sukarno, Indonesia's first president appointed kebaya as a national attire of Indonesia. [45] (#cite_note-GNFI-Kebaya-55) Kebaya as the national attire was often featured by Indonesian first ladies, notably Fatmawati (/wiki/Fatmawati) and Dewi Sukarno (/wiki/Dewi_Sukarno) , the wives of Sukarno (/wiki/Sukarno) . Nevertheless, the more democratic consensus of kebaya as the national attire took place in Jakarta, decades later in 1978, where kebaya was selected among four candidates. Malaysia and Singapore [ edit ] In contrast with the long kebaya, the short kebaya has been popular in Malaysia since 1920. The short kebaya does not only refer to the Nyonya kebaya, but it is also used to refer to other short kebayas like kebaya Bandung and kebaya Kota Bharu that appeared around the same era. [9] (#cite_note-MuziumBrunei-10) Short kebaya generally consists of a figure-hugging blouse and is made to emphasize the shape of the body that is popular among young women, especially in major cities like Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and Penang. [8] (#cite_note-Haziyah-8) By the late 1990s, during the era where Muslim women began to dress conservatively, kebarung , a new style of clothing that combined the elements of baju kurung (/wiki/Baju_kurung) and kebaya emerged as its modest look was preferred by the Malays. [8] (#cite_note-Haziyah-8) Attire components [ edit ] The quintessential Javanese kebaya as known today is essentially unchanged as noted by Raffles in 1817. [46] (#cite_note-56) [47] (#cite_note-57) It consists of the blouse ( kebaya ) with the central opening of the blouse fastened by a central brooch ( kerongsang ) where the flaps of the blouse meet, wore over a kain , and secured with angkin waist sash. The order of wear is: first undergarments, followed with kain panjang skirt, secured with angkin sash, then the kebaya blouse is worn and usually secured with kerongsang . In Java, a certain hairdo is required in harmony with a traditional kebaya — the konde or sanggul hairbun, either of natural hair, or adding artificial extensions (/wiki/Artificial_hair_integrations) . [48] (#cite_note-58) The Javanese konde is secured with ornamented tusuk konde hairpin made of gold, silver or iron. The traditional kain kebaya attire with konde hairdo is considered as the epitome of Javanese ladies' elegance. [49] (#cite_note-59) On the other hand, among the Peranakan communities, the ideal kebaya sulam also includes decorative accessories such as a hairpin ( cucuk sanggul ), a silver belt for securing the sarong ( pending ), as well as a pair of beaded slippers ( kasut manik ). [42] (#cite_note-Infopedia-49) A Javanese style black silk kebaya secured with kerongsang brooch, worn over a batik sarong. Blouse ( Kebaya ) The blouse (/wiki/Blouse) is commonly semi-transparent made from various materials, from cotton or velvet to fine silk, exquisite lace and brocade, decorated with stitching or glittering sequins and can be tailored tight-fitting or loose-fitting. In the Malay populated areas, a plainer and modest knee-length long-sleeved kebaya made out of songket (/wiki/Songket) or tenun is more common. Undergarments ( Kemben , Kutang or Baju Dalam ) Traditionally, Javanese women wear kemben (/wiki/Kemben) while the Nyonya wear baju dalam beneath their kebaya to cover the breasts for modesty reason due to the semi-transparent material of their kebayas. [27] (#cite_note-Datin-31) Today, the undergarment used under kebaya is usually either a corset (/wiki/Corset) , bra (/wiki/Bra) or camisole (/wiki/Camisole) . The simpler and more modest undergarment wore by villagers, usually, elderly women, is called kutang , which is a bra-like undergarment made from cotton. Skirt ( Kain or Sarong ) Kain panjang is a long cloth wrapped around the hips, secured with a belt and wore as a kind of sarong (/wiki/Sarong) or skirt. The kain is an unstitched fabric wrap around three metres long while sarong is a stitched tube-like fabric wrap of the same length. For Javanese, Sundanese and Nyonya kebaya, batik (/wiki/Batik) is the most common, which may be from plain stamped cotton to elaborately hand-painted batik tulis embroidered silk with gold thread. In Bali and Malay populated areas, songket (/wiki/Songket) , tenun (/wiki/Tenun_Pahang_Diraja) or other kinds of Balinese textiles (/wiki/Balinese_textiles) are commonly used, often of matching fabrics with the blouse. Sash ( Angkin or Stagen ) After the kain panjang is wrapped around the wearer's hips and tied securely with a cloth rope, an additional waist sash (/wiki/Sash) akin to a cummerbund (/wiki/Cummerbund) is wrapped around on the hips. In Java, this long cloth is known as angkin [50] (#cite_note-60) — or its modern version might use stagen instead. [51] (#cite_note-61) Angkin refers to a long sash made of fabric, usually made of jumputan Javanese tie-dye, batik or plain cloth. Stagen refers to an elastic waist band, with embedded rubber, and usually secured with velcro (/wiki/Hook-and-loop_fastener) or small hooks. In most of Indonesian kebaya, e.g. Kutu Baru and Javanese kebayas — the sash is always worn beneath the kebaya blouse, thus only visible on the front, while in Balinese kebaya the sash is clearly visible, worn over the kebaya in a similar fashion to the Japanese obi (/wiki/Obi_(sash)) . Silver kebaya kerongsang pin, Dutch East Indies circa 1927, collection of the Tropenmuseum (/wiki/Tropenmuseum) . Brooch ( Kerongsang ) To secure the blouse opening in the front, a decorative metal brooch (/wiki/Brooch) is applied on the chest. It can be made from iron, brass, silver or gold, decorated with semi-precious stones. A typical three-piece kerongsang is composed of a kerongsang ibu (mother piece) that is larger and heavier than the other two kerongsang anak (child piece). Kerongsang made from gold (/wiki/Gold) was considered as the sign of the social status of the royalty and nobility, however for commoners, simple and plain kebaya often only fastened with simple safety pins (/wiki/Safety_pin) ( peniti ). Most of kebaya variants applied kerongsang to secure its front opening. However, certain style of kebaya that uses buttons instead; e.g. Balinese kebaya — usually do not wear any kerongsang . Belt ( Sabuk or Pending ) A kain panjang requires a helper to dress (literally wrap) the wearer and is held in place with a string ( tali ). The string is then folded at the waist and held with a belt ( sabuk or ikat pinggang or pending ). Similar to kain , sarong also sometimes requires a helper. A sabuk or pending functions as a belt to fasten the sarong as well as an accessory to the attire. Sabuk refers to "belt" while pending more precisely referred to metal belts made of a chain of metal pieces of silver, gold or brass. This metal belt is seldom used in most of kebaya variants, and is only valid to specific kebaya styles. Beaded and embroidered shoes worn by Peranakan Nyonya. Shoes ( Selop or Kasut Manik ) In order to complete her sarong kebaya outfit, Nyonya wear a pair of intricate and finely stitched beaded (/wiki/Bead) slippers called kasut manik . [42] (#cite_note-Infopedia-49) The kasut manik are made for two types of occasions. For joyful occasions, such as Sambot Taon (/wiki/Chinese_New_Year) , the beaded slippers are made of colourful beads with intricate patterns while for mournful occasions, the beads used are black, white or blue with simpler patterns. This matching beaded slippers are seldom used in most of kebaya variants, only used in specific kebaya style, i.e. the nyonya kebaya. In most of Indonesian kebayas, traditional Javanese selop , which are slippers made of leather or fabrics such as velvet, are commonly used. Modern kebaya uses modern women's shoes (/wiki/Ladies%27_shoe) with matching colour instead. Varieties [ edit ] Variants of Kebaya elements [ edit ] Simple Kutubaru kebaya (square collar) worn by a Javanese woman in Yogyakarta. Collars In the aspect of the collar or neck cut, there are two main varieties; the V-shaped collar (Javanese, Kartini, Balinese, Malay, Cocos and Encim or Peranakan) and the square-shaped collar (Kutubaru or Kota Bharu). The Riau-Pahang kebaya has a band collar secured with buttons known as "cekak musang" while the Sundanese has a U-shaped collar, similar to the modern kebaya. The modern kebaya also might apply various shapes and curves of collars. Fabrics In the aspect of the fabric, the blouse may be of two main forms: transparent or semi-transparent materials of Javanese, Sundanese, Balinese, Cocos and Encim or Peranakan kebaya and the modest non-transparent materials of Kartini, Malay and Riau-Pahang kebaya. The Javanese kebaya is usually made of silk (/wiki/Silk) , cotton (/wiki/Cotton) and velvet (/wiki/Velvet) , while the Malay kebaya is usually made of locally woven textiles such as songket (/wiki/Songket) or tenun (/wiki/Tenun_Pahang_Diraja) . Cut and fittings In the cut aspect, two main varieties are; the more tightly tailored Javanese, Sundanese, Balinese, Cocos and Encim or Peranakan kebaya, and the modest loose-fitting kebaya wore by conservative Muslim women. The more Islamic compatible Malay kebaya is a loose-fitting, knee-length long-sleeved blouse wore in the Malay populated areas of Malaya, Sumatra and Borneo. Varieties in Indonesia [ edit ] Indonesian woman in kebaya and kain batik (/wiki/Batik) . The trace of kemban (torso wrap) can be seen underneath the semi-transparent brocade (/wiki/Brocade) kebaya. Kartini kebaya [ edit ] The type of kebaya used by aristocratic Javanese women, especially during the lifetime of Raden Ajeng Kartini (/wiki/Kartini) , circa 19th century. [52] (#cite_note-Tempo-Aneka-Kebaya-62) Often the term "Javanese kebaya" is synonymous with the kebaya Kartini, although slightly different. Kebaya Kartini usually made from a fine but non-transparent fabrics, and white is a favoured colour. Basic Kebaya Kartini might be plain. The adornment is quite minimal, only stitching or applied laces along the edges. The V-shaped collar cut of this type of kebaya is quite similar to the Peranakan Encim kebaya, however it is distinguishes by its distinctive fold on the chest. Another feature of the Kartini kebaya is the length of the kebaya that covers the hips, and the collar folds with a vertical line shape, which creates the tall and slender impression of the wearer. [53] (#cite_note-Gosocio-63) The Kartini-style kebaya inspired the cut and style of Garuda Indonesia (/wiki/Garuda_Indonesia) 's flight attendants' uniform. Kutubaru kebaya [ edit ] The basic form of Kutubaru kebaya is quite similar to other types of kebaya. [52] (#cite_note-Tempo-Aneka-Kebaya-62) What distinguishes it is the additional fabric called bef to connect the left and right side of the kebaya in the chest and abdomen. This create a square or rectangle shaped collar. This type of kebaya was meant to recreate the look of unsecured kebaya wore over matching kemben (/wiki/Kemben) (torso wrap) undergarment. Kebaya Kutubaru is believed to be originated from Central Java (/wiki/Central_Java) . [45] (#cite_note-GNFI-Kebaya-55) Usually to wear this type of kebaya, stagen (cloth wrapped around the stomach), or rubber-enforced black corset is worn under the kebaya, thus the wearer will look more slender. [53] (#cite_note-Gosocio-63) Javanese kebaya [ edit ] Kebaya and Batik are used in traditional Javanese wedding attire This type of kebaya from Java has a simple shape with a V-neck. This straight and simple cut gives an impression of simple elegance. Usually a Javanese kebaya is made of semi-transparent fine fabric patterned with floral stitching or embroidery, sometimes adorned with sequins. Other fabrics might be used, including cotton, brocade, silk and velvet. The semi-transparent kebaya is worn over matching underwear, either corset, bra or camisole. [53] (#cite_note-Gosocio-63) Keraton or Solo kebaya [ edit ] Keraton (/wiki/Keraton) kebaya also known as Solo kebaya, [54] (#cite_note-Inspirasi-64) is an aristocratic kebaya typically worn by noble women of the court of Surakarta Hadiningrat kingdom (/wiki/Surakarta_Sunanate) of the Solo city (/wiki/Surakarta) in Central Java. Despite popularly being called as Solo (Surakarta) kebaya, this type of kebaya is actually also commonly worn as aristocratic dress for noble ladies in neighboring Javanese courts, including Yogyakarta (/wiki/Kraton_Ngayogyakarta_Hadiningrat) , Pakualaman (/wiki/Pakualaman) and Mangkunegaran (/wiki/Mangkunegaran) . Solo kebaya usually use dark coloured fabrics, with black velvet (/wiki/Velvet) as the most favoured material. The edge around the sleeves and along the collar up to the front opening and bottom edges are decorated with golden or silver beads and sequins. The cut of Solo kebaya is longer than common Javanese kebaya, usually up to the knee of the wearer. Solo kebaya is known for its elegance, and usually used for Javanese Solo Putri style wedding dress. [55] (#cite_note-Womantalk-65) Sundanese kebaya [ edit ] Girls in white Sundanese kebaya during Seren Taun (/wiki/Seren_Taun) harvest festival. Tight-fitting brocade Sundanese (/wiki/Sundanese_people) kebaya allows more freedom in design, and much applied in modern kebaya and wedding kebaya in Indonesia. The semi-transparent fabrics is patterned with floral stitching or embroidery. The main difference with other kebaya style is the U collar neckline, often applying broad curves to cover shoulders and chest. Another difference is the extra long lower parts of kebaya, with hanging edges which covers hips and thigh. Furthermore, they are known to very colourful and brightly coloured. The contemporary wedding kebaya dress even has sweeping long train (/wiki/Train_(clothing)) . Historically, the Sundanese kebaya is separated into 3 different categories based on a person's social standing: the aristocrats, middle class workers, and the commoners, where they each have their own stylistic conventions that would have been followed by members of the class. [56] (#cite_note-66) Bandung kebaya [ edit ] This kebaya design originated from the city of Bandung (/wiki/Bandung) in the 1950s. The distinctive feature of this kebaya is the kerah setali ( shawl collar (/wiki/Shawl_collar) ) that folds up to the chest. The cut is also unique in that the back is shorter than the front. The Bandung kebaya design is a very short kebaya with a length only up to the waist or a few centimetres below the waist, exposing the curved hips of the wearer. This rather daring design was meant for young maiden and considered as one of the most chic kebaya variant. It is often applied in modern kebaya fashion, unorthodoxly combined with tight kain sarong, pants or short skirts. Kebaya Bandung usually uses a shawl collar that forms a V-neckline with a slit on the front secured with buttons. The material used for the Bandung Kebaya is brocade combined with a long batik cloth. [54] (#cite_note-Inspirasi-64) [57] (#cite_note-67) Balinese kebaya [ edit ] Balinese (/wiki/Balinese_people) girls wearing a kebaya Balinese (/wiki/Balinese_people) kebaya is quite similar to Javanese kebaya, but slightly different. The Balinese kebaya usually has V neck line with folded collar sometimes decorated with laces. They are usually tight-fitting made with colorful semi-transparent or plain fabrics either cotton or brocade, patterned with floral stitching or embroidery. Unlike traditional Javanese kebaya, Balinese kebaya might add buttons in the front opening, and kerongsang brooch is seldom used. The main difference is Balinese kebaya add obi-like (/wiki/Obi_(sash)) sash (/wiki/Sash) upon kebaya, wrap around the waist. [53] (#cite_note-Gosocio-63) The Balinese kebaya is part of busana adat or customary dress, Balinese women are required to wear kebaya during Balinese Hindu (/wiki/Balinese_Hinduism) rituals and ceremony in pura (/wiki/Balinese_temple) . White kebaya are favoured for Balinese religious rituals. Other than religious ceremony, contemporary Balinese women also often wear kebaya for their daily activities. Because most Balinese people are Hindus, the Balinese kebaya usually has shorter sleeves compared to Javanese kebaya. Madurese kebaya [ edit ] Kebaya Madura is the style of kebaya from the island of Madura (/wiki/Madura) off coast of East Java. It is also known as kebaya rancongan , it has a characteristic on the neck collar in the V shape. In addition, this kebaya is also equipped with jewelry to cover the neck and chest. The length of this kebaya is only up to the waist and tapers at the bottom. Kebaya Madura shows the curves of wearer's body, to create elegant silhouette. [58] (#cite_note-68) Malay or Labuh kebaya [ edit ] Kebaya Labuh is a style of Malay kebaya which is quite similar to baju kurung (/wiki/Baju_kurung) . This type of kebaya used in Sumatra, particularly on Malay-populated provinces (/wiki/Malay_Indonesians) , including North Sumatra (/wiki/North_Sumatra) , Riau (/wiki/Riau) , the Riau Islands (/wiki/Riau_Islands) , Jambi (/wiki/Jambi) , the Bangka Belitung Islands (/wiki/Bangka_Belitung_Islands) , and South Sumatra (/wiki/South_Sumatra) . Kebaya labuh is actually more specifically associated with the Melayu Lingga (/wiki/Riau-Lingga_Sultanate) culture. [59] (#cite_note-69) The kebaya labuh consists of a loose, knee-length tunic and is usually made of semi-transparent fabrics. The central opening of the blouse-dress is usually wrapped by brooches and is traditionally worn with kemban , along with a sarong (/wiki/Sarong) or songket (/wiki/Songket) around the hips. [17] (#cite_note-The_Origin_of_the_Kebaya-20) Batak kebaya [ edit ] Batak (/wiki/Batak) people wears kebaya for special occasion such as for church or wedding, usually combined with ulos (/wiki/Ulos) or songket. Batak kebaya are variant of kebaya adopted by Batak (/wiki/Batak) people of North Sumatra (/wiki/North_Sumatra) . Traditionally Batak people wear ulos (/wiki/Ulos) clothes wrapped around their body in similar fashion to Javanese kemben , and also draped around the shoulders. However, kebaya was relatively recent being adopted into Batak culture, mainly owed to national culture of Indonesia that promote the use of kebaya among Indonesians. The cuts and materials of Batak kebaya is similar to Sundanese kebaya, which is brocade decorated with sequins, with U-shaped neckline and allows freedom in design. The favourite colours for Batak kebaya, especially for weddings are red, white, gold and black. There are three types of Batak kebayas; they are Batak Toba (/wiki/Toba_Batak_people) kebaya, Batak Karo (/wiki/Karo_people_(Indonesia)) kebaya, and Batak Mandailing (/wiki/Mandailing_people) kebaya. [60] (#cite_note-70) Batak kebaya usually wore as wedding dress or as formal dress, combined with traditional ulos cloth put around the shoulder, songket (/wiki/Songket) skirt, sortali head band of Batak Toba, traditional Karo head dress, or bulang golden crown of Mandailing style. [61] (#cite_note-71) [62] (#cite_note-72) Ambon kebaya [ edit ] Ambon kebaya refer to a type of kebaya being used in Eastern Indonesia (/wiki/Eastern_Indonesia) , especially associated with Ambon (/wiki/Ambon,_Maluku) city of Maluku Islands (/wiki/Maluku_Islands) . [63] (#cite_note-Ambon-73) During colonial times of VOC (/wiki/Dutch_East_India_Company) rules, the prevalence of kebaya in Dutch East Indies (/wiki/Dutch_East_Indies) has led to the adoption of kebaya outside of its traditional realms in Java, including the Dutch possessions in Eastern Indonesia, such as in Minahasa and Amboina. Traditionally Ambonese ladies wear baju cele which is simple loose dress with neck hole has only three or four buttons near the front neckline. Ambon kebaya for women has two types; the kebaya putih panjang (long sleeved white kebaya) and kebaya hitam gereja (black church kebaya). Long sleeved white kebaya is made from white brocade with front opening secured either with buttons or golden pins. Black kebaya for church has cuts akin to baju cele shirt, it has long sleeves and made of black brocade, the sarong is also made of black brocade. Ambon kebaya usually worn combined with black cenela slippers with white socks, and the ladies usually also bring lenso laced handkerchief (/wiki/Handkerchief) . [63] (#cite_note-Ambon-73) [64] (#cite_note-74) Minahasa kebaya [ edit ] Maidens from Sangihe of North Sulawesi wearing kebaya, during colonial Dutch East Indies era. Minahasa kebaya is a type of kebaya used by Minahasan people (/wiki/Minahasan_people) of North Sulawesi (/wiki/North_Sulawesi) . [65] (#cite_note-75) This Eastern Indonesian kebaya has common origin with Ambon kebaya and colonial noni indo kebaya, which was adopted during colonial era of VOC (/wiki/Dutch_East_India_Company) and Dutch East Indies (/wiki/Dutch_East_Indies) . The cut is similar to Ambon and Dutch Noni kebaya, with white lace or brocade as the preferred materials. White kebaya combined with kain batik sarong imported from Java used to be wore everyday in the past, but now usually confined for special occasion such as church or weddings. While for brides, white Minahasa kebaya is combined with white brocade long skirt with design resembles a fish tail called baju ikan duyung , thus the Minahasan bride resembles a mermaid. [66] (#cite_note-76) Mongondow kabaya [ edit ] Mongondow kabaya, or simply called kabaya , is a type of kebaya of Mongondow people (/wiki/Mongondow_people) of North Sulawesi (/wiki/North_Sulawesi) and Gorontalo (/wiki/Gorontalo) . Kabaya refer to blouse for the top, while the bottom skirt is called daing . If the kabaya is in the same colour as the daing it is usually called kabaya pasere . Usually kabaya of Mongondow has small flowers patterns. [67] (#cite_note-77) Jumputan kebaya [ edit ] Jumputan kebaya refer to kebaya that is made from kain jumputan or Javanese tie-dye (/wiki/Tie-dye) . The jumputan patterns usually took forms of dots created from tie-die technique that represents small flowers akin to jasmines. The cut of kebaya may be kutubaru or Javanese style. The characteristic of this outfit is the addition of contrast coloured angkin or stagen waist cloths. Angkin is a type of sash or belt made of long clothes wrapped around the belly. [55] (#cite_note-Womantalk-65) Lurik kebaya [ edit ] Lurik kebaya refer to kebaya that is made from kain lurik or Javanese woven clothes. Kain lurik usually has dark earthy tone, ranged from light brown to dark brown and black. Unlike fine Javanese batik tulis or fine brocade, traditionally lurik are considered as simple and rather coarse clothes commonly wore by Javanese farmers or peasants. It is most specifically associated with Yogyakarta (/wiki/Special_Region_of_Yogyakarta) . [68] (#cite_note-78) Kerancang kebaya [ edit ] Kerancang kebaya refer to kebaya made from bordir kerancang or kerancang embroidery (/wiki/Embroidery) , a traditional craft of Betawi (/wiki/Betawi_people) from Jakarta. Betawi culture has several types of kebaya, they are kebaya encim, kebaya kerancang, and kebaya panjang nyak Betawi. Kebaya kerancang are usually worn as the formal dress for the wedding party by the mothers of the bride and groom. The cut may be akin to kartini model with a sondai tip, tapering down at the front measuring 20 to 30 centimetres from the flat part of the hip, or it can be kebaya panjang nyak Betawi, which is a long kebaya with flat bottom edge measuring 3 to 5 centimetres above the knees. Kebaya kerancang usually has bright and vivid colours. [69] (#cite_note-79) Noni or Indo kebaya [ edit ] Indo kebaya is also known as kebaya Noni , derived from the term noni or nona which literally means "miss" to refer a young girl or unmarried woman of European descent. [52] (#cite_note-Tempo-Aneka-Kebaya-62) During the Dutch East Indies (/wiki/Dutch_East_Indies) era of Indonesia, Indo (/wiki/Indo_people) women also colonial European women of high status adopted the kebaya, which provided less restrictive and cooler clothing, as a formal or social dress. Colonial ladies abandon their tight corset (/wiki/Corset) and wear light and comfortable undergarment under their kebaya. Indos and colonials probably adopted kebaya inherited from the clothing worn by Njai (/wiki/Njai) , native (/wiki/Native_Indonesian) women kept as housekeepers, companions, and concubines in the colonial households. Njai ladies were the ancestors of Indo people (mixed European and Asian ancestry). The cut and style of kebaya worn by the Dutch and Indo ladies were actually derived from Javanese kebaya. Nevertheless, there are some slight differences, European women wore shorter sleeves and total length cotton in prints, adorned with laces often imported from Europe. The kebaya worn by colonials and Indo ladies mostly are white and has light fabrics, this was meant to provide pleasant and cooler clothing in hot and humid tropical climate, since dark colored fabrics attract and retain heat. The day kebaya of the Indo people (/wiki/Indo_people) was of white cotton trimmed with oriental motif handmade lace, either locally made in East Indies, or imported from Bruges (/wiki/Bruges) or the Netherlands (/wiki/Netherlands) . While black silk kebaya is used for evening wear. Encim or Peranakan kebaya [ edit ] Encim kebaya as part of Betawi traditional attire. In Java (/wiki/Java) , the kebaya worn by ladies of Chinese ancestry (/wiki/Chinese_Indonesian) is called kebaya encim , derived from the name encim or enci to refer to a married Chinese woman. [70] (#cite_note-80) It was commonly worn by Chinese ladies in Javan coastal cities with significant Chinese settlements, such as Semarang (/wiki/Semarang) , Lasem, Tuban, Surabaya (/wiki/Surabaya) , Pekalongan (/wiki/Pekalongan) and Cirebon (/wiki/Cirebon) . Encim kebaya is also adopted as the traditional attire of Betawi people (/wiki/Betawi_people) of Jakarta (/wiki/Jakarta) , [71] (#cite_note-81) thus it is no longer worn solely by Chinese Indonesians (/wiki/Chinese_Indonesians) , but also by local Betawi people. It marked differently from Javanese kebaya with its smaller and finer embroidery, lighter fabrics and more vibrant colors, made from imported materials such as silk and other fine fabrics. The encim kebaya fit well with vibrant-colored kain batik pesisiran (/wiki/Batik#Coastal_batik_(batik_pesisiran)) (Javan coastal batik). [52] (#cite_note-Tempo-Aneka-Kebaya-62) It was this encim kebaya from coastal north Java, together with vibrant coloured Javanese coastal batik pesisir that has been exported to Straits Settlements (/wiki/Straits_Settlements) of Singapore (/wiki/Singapore) and Penang (/wiki/Penang) since colonial times in the 19th century, thus created the kebaya wearing culture among nyonyas of Peranakan Chinese (/wiki/Peranakan_Chinese) in the Malay peninsula. The light and vibrant coloured encim kebaya has become the traditional dress of overseas Chinese (/wiki/Overseas_Chinese) ladies in the archipelago, from coastal Java to Sumatran port cities such as Medan, also Singapore, Malacca and Penang, and considered suitable for tropical climate of Southeast Asia. [72] (#cite_note-CNN-Kebaya-82) Modern kebaya [ edit ] For decades kebaya has inspired Indonesian fashion designers (/wiki/Fashion_designers) in their works. Indonesian fashion designers such as Anne Avantie (/wiki/Anne_Avantie) , Adjie Notonegoro, Oscar Lawalata (/wiki/Oscar_Lawalata) and Obin (/wiki/Obin) are known has experimented and created contemporary design of modern kebayas. [73] (#cite_note-50_Kebaya-83) In term of design, the new category of "modern kebaya" itself is quite a broadly identified, since they can be inspired by Indonesian traditional kebaya, combined with foreign influences and designs, or made entirely in new modern fashion ideas. [74] (#cite_note-Kumampung-84) The modern kebaya may experimented with the collar cuts, the length of sleeves; with some has only one sleeve or no sleeves at all, the use fabrics and its patterns such as applying polka dots (/wiki/Polka_dot) pattern, combining them with short skirts or pants, etc. [73] (#cite_note-50_Kebaya-83) Varieties in Malaysia [ edit ] Kebaya Melayu/ Kebaya Labuh/ Kebaya Panjang/ Baju Belah [ edit ] A Kelantanese Malay (/wiki/Kelantanese_Malay_people) woman with children in traditional Malay kebaya. Although Malay women are famous for their Baju Kurung (/wiki/Baju_Kurung) , kebaya sometimes is also being worn for both formal or informal occasions. The kebaya panjang is a knee-length, long-sleeved blouse, worn over a sarong. It is often elaborately embroidered with floral motifs on the cuffs and the front lapel, with a neckline that is usually V-shaped. [9] (#cite_note-MuziumBrunei-10) Kebaya panjang resembles baju kurung in many ways. The only differentiation is it splits and fits in front of the dress, secured with kerongsang brooch. The original kebaya panjang was designed to reach the ankle, only an inch from the bottom of the sarong, with sleeves that were wide and long. [3] (#cite_note-Annette-3) Another variety of the kebaya panjang is known as the kebaya labuh . This kebaya is a loose-fitting long blouse, worn with an undergarment known as baju pontong . The dress is designed with several small buttons as fasteners. Both kebaya panjang and kebaya labuh do not accentuate the shape of the body of the wearer as compared to the other Kebaya, namely kebaya nyonya . This style of kebaya is commonly worn by Malay women in Malaysia (/wiki/Malaysia) , Singapore (/wiki/Singapore) and Brunei (/wiki/Brunei) and are cherished by society [75] (#cite_note-Zarina-85) as recent trends show that this dress is becoming more popular, although it is normally worn by older women. [9] (#cite_note-MuziumBrunei-10) Back in the old days, kebaya was considered common everyday wear for Malay women besides baju kurung , although the latter is more popular. [76] (#cite_note-86) However, the status has changed as it is now worn mostly to formal events and weddings. [75] (#cite_note-Zarina-85) Still, this style of Malay kebaya continues to grow according to time with its characteristics of a split at the front that is covered with buttons or brooches still remains. In term of fabric choice, Malay kebaya is usually made of traditional textiles like tenun (/wiki/Tenun_Pahang_Diraja) or songket (/wiki/Songket) . [8] (#cite_note-Haziyah-8) Kebaya Riau Pahang/ Kebaya Turki [ edit ] In Pahang, the local style kebaya is known as kebaya Riau Pahang or sometimes also known as Turkish kebaya. The difference between this style of kebaya and other kebayas is that it has a buttoned baju kurung (/wiki/Baju_kurung) "cekak musang"-like collar. [77] (#cite_note-Aziz-87) Kebaya Riau Pahang is believed to have existed since the era of Johor-Riau-Lingga-Pahang (/wiki/Johor_Sultanate) in the 19th century or even earlier, during the time of Malacca Sultanate (/wiki/Malacca_Sultanate) by researchers. [8] (#cite_note-Haziyah-8) It is not just a dress, it is also a sign of the good relationship between the Pahang (/wiki/Sultanate_of_Pahang) and Riau-Lingga (/wiki/Sultanate_of_Riau-Lingga) in the past. [4] (#cite_note-Phromsuthirak-4) Kebaya Riau Pahang is also said to have originated from Turkey shaped-like robe where the dress extends to the level of the ankle and splits in front. It was said that Abu Bakar of Johor (/wiki/Abu_Bakar_of_Johor) and his family often visited Turkey for a long vacation, from there the kebaya Turki was inspired. [8] (#cite_note-Haziyah-8) Nevertheless, western influence can also be seen in modern wearers where the dress and the level of the sleeves have been shortened. This style of kebaya is usually made of locally produced Pahang woven (/wiki/Tenun_Pahang_Diraja) fabric or songket (/wiki/Songket) . The difference in the status of the wearer is shown by the number of buttons, where the number seven and nine, decorated with semi-precious stones used to reserved for Pahang nobility. [78] (#cite_note-88) Kebaya Riau Pahang is usually worn with ombak mengalun style sarong with the kepala of the kain at the back, similar to the baju kurung . [8] (#cite_note-Haziyah-8) The status of the wearers can also be seen by the wearing of jewellery on the chest and scarf on the shoulder. [79] (#cite_note-JenisKebaya-89) Kebaya Selangor [ edit ] Selangor also has its own kebaya. Kebaya Selangor is the result of assimilation through the marriages between the Selangor royal family with their relatives of Perak and Kedah royal families as well as Bugis traditions of Sulawesi. [80] (#cite_note-KebayaSelangor1-90) In Selangor, the use of long and loose kebaya dress has been seen worn when doing daily activities as well as attending weddings since the beginning of the 19th century and spread throughout the districts of Selangor. It is also known as "The Malay Dress", matched with sarong (/wiki/Sarong) cloth made from songket (/wiki/Songket) , batik (/wiki/Batik) or Bugis woven fabric, with the kepala of the sarong at the front. It shares the same characteristics as a kebaya but has a straight and lower hemline that usually reaches below the knees. The kebaya is also looser at the waistline than the ordinary kebaya and has four pleats in front. It is folded slightly around the neck and pinned with a kerongsang brooch. [80] (#cite_note-KebayaSelangor1-90) Kebaya Selangor is matched with songket (/wiki/Songket) , batik (/wiki/Batik) or Bugis woven fabric, according to the ability or status of the wearer. There is indeed a difference in the fabric material used by the people as compared to the royal family. A cotton cloth that is matched with batik cloth or Bugis weaving was usually worn by the Selangor nobility while songket is only worn by the bride and groom. Nowadays, the use of kebaya Selangor has been varied according to the taste of the wearer. This style of kebaya was once displayed by Michelle Yeoh (/wiki/Michelle_Yeoh) when attending the Datukship ceremony [81] (#cite_note-KebayaSelangor2-91) [79] (#cite_note-JenisKebaya-89) of Sultan Azlan Shah (/wiki/Azlan_Shah_of_Perak) , the Sultan (/wiki/Sultan) of Perak (/wiki/Perak) , in recognition of the fame she brought to the state. [82] (#cite_note-92) Kebaya Setengah Tiang [ edit ] A Malay woman from Kuching, Sarawak wearing kebaya and kain dagang. Kebaya setengah tiang is a traditional attire of Negeri Sembilan. It is known as "setengah tiang" (half-mast) because it is a little longer than a short kebaya, but not as long as a long kebaya. This style of kebaya has its origins from kebaya panjang . The kebaya panjang was shortened to make it easier and comfortable for women to move while carrying out daily activities at home or outside. In the past, it was often used by women when they were at home, working in the fields or attending wedding ceremonies. Normally, it is paired with batik (/wiki/Batik) sarong (/wiki/Sarong) . In the early 1950s, this style of kebaya was very popular and often styled at public gatherings. It has a pola potongan sembilan , the hem of the blouse is straight and the front of the dress looks like a long kebaya. Differs from other kebayas, kebaya setengah tiang has bell-sleeves. [83] (#cite_note-KebayaN9-93) The significant difference between formal and informal occasions is the choice of fabric materials used. For daily activities like working in the field, the kebaya is usually made of cotton cloth with flower motifs while for attending weddings, it is made of more expensive fabrics such as brocade, gauze, or woven songket (/wiki/Songket) of gold and silver thread. Women who style kebaya setengah tiang will often use kerongsang brooches, dokoh or necklaces as accessories as well as a headdress known as telepok . [83] (#cite_note-KebayaN9-93) Kebaya Perlis [ edit ] Kebaya Perlis was very popular during the reign of Raja Syed Alwi in the 1930s where it was worn by the Perlis royal family and the state aristocrats for public gatherings and special occasions. This style of kebaya is not only comfortable to wear but also symbolises the identity and modesty of Malay women. Kebaya Perlis does not show the shape of the body and is suitable to be worn at work and official functions. One of the special features of the kebaya Perlis is that it is sewn from a whole piece of cloth without any stitches at the shoulders. If seen from the front view, kebaya Perlis is similar to the shape of other kebayas but if seen from the rearview, it looks like a kebaya that has the same gussets as a baju kurung (/wiki/Baju_kurung) with no stitch on the shoulders. The size of kebaya Perlis is also loose, which make it suitable for people of plus size. In the past, it was made mainly using Kasa Rubia fabric as songket (/wiki/Songket) was totally prohibited except for the brides and royal families. Since the fabric was not easily available anymore, chiffon and songket fabric were made common. [84] (#cite_note-KebayaPerlis1-94) Similar to other kebayas, kebaya Perlis also uses a decorative kerongsang brooch on the front fold of the blouse to secure the dress, often inserted diagonally. There are two versions of how to wear kebaya Perlis . The first style is by securing the folded front of the blouse with a brooch decoration while the other style is by stacking the front without folding it and secured it with a brooch decoration. [85] (#cite_note-KebayaPerlis2-95) Kebaya Kota Bharu [ edit ] Apart from being famous as Cik Siti Wan Kembang (/wiki/Siti_Wan_Kembang) 's style of clothing, Kelantan also has another popular traditional attire, namely kebaya Kota Bharu . [4] (#cite_note-Phromsuthirak-4) Named kebaya Kota Bharu because this style of kebaya is widely worn by women in Kota Bharu (/wiki/Kota_Bharu) and the state of Kelantan (/wiki/Kelantan) as a whole. [8] (#cite_note-Haziyah-8) The difference between the kebaya Kota Bharu and other kebayas is that it has an extra fabric known as lidah baju that connects the left and right side of the kebaya at the front of the kebaya. Differs from other kebayas, it does not need to be fastened with kerongsang but with snap fasteners that were sewed at the lidah baju . This style of kebaya is also known as kebaya bandung and might have been originated from kebaya Kutu Baru from Java. [77] (#cite_note-Aziz-87) [79] (#cite_note-JenisKebaya-89) During the 1950s, kebaya Kota Bharu was very popular among women in Kelantan, where it is also known as baju potong medan . This style of kebaya has been modified into fashion icons with a various combination style of kebaya Kota Bharu and sarong (/wiki/Sarong) exists. Kebaya Saloma [ edit ] A Malaysia Airlines flight attendant wearing a kebaya inspired by Saloma (/wiki/Saloma) . Saloma (/wiki/Saloma) can be considered as the main trigger of the fashion and style trends of Malayan women in the 1950s and 1960s since appearing as a singer and actress of many adored Malay films. [86] (#cite_note-Saloma-96) Saloma was a trendsetter. During the 1950s in which the Malays gripped firmly to the Asian values, Saloma occurs in a dress "alien" to the conservative Malay community at the time where she popularized western-style tights, body and chest revealing dresses with cuts across the shoulders. [79] (#cite_note-JenisKebaya-89) She started the tight-fitting "kebaya ketat" style, also known as "kebaya Saloma" with its wide neck and low back. [86] (#cite_note-Saloma-96) Details such as a front open slit on the sarong or a low-back tight-fitting kebaya were also popular even though would probably have not passed the Malay modesty standard these days. There are several examples of Saloma style kebaya, made from sheer polyester fabric, that she would wear over a black corset and paired with tight-fitting sarongs. This classic "kebaya Saloma" is not only becoming a staple for Malayan women at the time but also became an inspiration for the flight attendants of Malaysia Airlines (/wiki/Malaysia_Airlines) (MAS) and Singapore Airlines (/wiki/Singapore_Airlines) (SIA). [86] (#cite_note-Saloma-96) Kebaya Nyonya/ Kebaya Sulam [ edit ] A group of women posing in the traditional Peranakan (/wiki/Peranakan) Nyonya kebaya. In the straits settlements of Malacca (/wiki/Malacca) , Penang (/wiki/Penang) and Singapore (/wiki/Singapore) , a different style of kebaya also exists, usually worn by those of Peranakan (/wiki/Peranakan) and Chinese ancestry. [27] (#cite_note-Datin-31) The Nyonya kebaya is very unique as it is famous for the use of lace and elaborate embroidery techiques [27] (#cite_note-Datin-31) that is traditionally worn with matching jewelleries and a pair of hand-beaded shoes. [11] (#cite_note-Koh-12) The Nyonya kebaya is a tighter-fitting sheer embroidered blouse that is traditionally paired with a batik sarong either drawn by hand or machine-printed. The styles of Nyonya kebaya can be classified into three main periods, each style has a design that is connected with the fashion and technology trends at that moment. The three styles of Nyonya kebaya are kebaya renda , kebaya biku and kebaya sulam . Kebaya renda , the earliest Nyonya kebaya uses lace, kebaya biku , an improved version of kebaya renda uses embroidery only at the hem of the dress while the kebaya sulam is the quintessential Nyonya kebaya that we know today. [87] (#cite_note-kebayaNyonya2-97) Among popular embroidery motifs for kebaya sulam include flowers, butterflies, phoenixes, dragons and insects. The sarong on the other hand often uses hand-drawn batik cloths from Java. [42] (#cite_note-Infopedia-49) Being semi-transparent, the Nyonya kebaya is usually worn over a camisole and secured at the front by a set of three interlinked kerongsang brooches. The traditional Nyonya kebaya outfit is completed with decorative accessories such as a cucuk sanggul hairpin, a silver pending belt for securing the sarong, as well as a pair of kasut manik beaded slippers. Traditionally, there also exists a kebaya that is worn specifically for mourning, known as kebaya tuaha . The colour of kebaya tuaha represents the different stages of a mourning period. [87] (#cite_note-kebayaNyonya2-97) Some resources claim that Nyonya kebaya originated from Java (/wiki/Java) , Medan (/wiki/Medan) or Surabaya (/wiki/Surabaya) . [88] (#cite_note-98) Conversely, there are some writers who claim that Penang (/wiki/Penang) or Malacca (/wiki/Malacca) was indeed the origin of the Nyonya Kebaya, having adopted the dress independently. [27] (#cite_note-Datin-31) Nevertheless, similar Nyonya Kebaya can also be found in Phuket (/wiki/Phuket) and Medan (/wiki/Medan) , where they shared the similar Peranakan culture. [11] (#cite_note-Koh-12) Kebaya Chetti [ edit ] The use of kebaya and sarong in Chetti Melaka culture shows the influence of the Baba and Nyonya which had started to use the dress in the 1920s and 1930s. There are some differences between the kebaya worn by Indian and Chinese Peranakan. The Chetti women are generally more conservative, in favour of opaque material for their kebaya, compared to Nyonya kebaya which prefers semi-transparent fabric. It also tends to be plainer, with fine or no embroidery at all. [79] (#cite_note-JenisKebaya-89) This style of kebaya is also different from the Malay kebaya. Kebaya wore by Chetti women often have the form of a deduction 'V' neck while the kebaya wore by Malay women usually straight down. [43] (#cite_note-KebayaChetti-53) This style of kebaya is also worn with three brooches in various shapes and patterns as well as a pair of kasut manik to complete the look for more formal occasions. [43] (#cite_note-KebayaChetti-53) Nevertheless, the Chetti women would wear the sarong kebaya just as the Peranakan Chinese would, incorporating Indian elements such as a thali , pottu as well as a gold chain for married women. The wearing of kebaya on Deepavali morning has also become a cultural practice among Chetti community, a tradition passed for generations. [89] (#cite_note-KebayaChetti2-99) Kebaya Jawi Pekan [ edit ] In Penang (/wiki/Penang) , apart from being popular with Nyonya kebaya, there is also a style of kebaya from the Jawi Pekan (/wiki/Jawi_Peranakan) , the locally born Malay-speaking Muslims of mixed Indian, Malay as well as Arab ancestry. [90] (#cite_note-JawiPekan-100) The Jawi Pekan community is very similar to the Mamak (/wiki/Malaysian_Indians) community but can be distinguished through their names, facial features, as well as the Malay dialect used. There are subtle differences in cut and design that distinguish the kebaya of Jawi Pekan from that of Mamak. The Jawi Pekan generally prefers kebaya that is made of lace with decorated sequins while Mamak prefers kebaya that is made of sari cloth that was directly imported from India. [79] (#cite_note-JenisKebaya-89) The choice of material is largely influenced by the historical ties between the Jawi Pekan with their colonial heritage and the Indian Muslims with India. Among the Jawi Pekan community, a married woman will usually wear a long kebaya while unmarried women will often opt for the short kebaya. Women from this community are often seen wearing matching colours for their clothes. Kebaya Kristang [ edit ] There are two types of kebayas among the Kristang (/wiki/Kristang_people) community in Malacca (/wiki/Malacca) , namely the kebaya kompridu and the dabaia kurtu . [91] (#cite_note-KebayaKristang-101) During the early 16th century, the Portuguese settlers married local Malay women. With this maternal influence, Kristang women also wore the kebaya panjang and the sarong kebaya. Nevertheless, kristang dancers continue to wear traditional Portuguese dance costumes for performances. Kebaya kompridu means long kebaya while dabaia kurtu means short kebaya. Kebaya kompridu is considered as the traditional formal dress for special occasions while the latter is usually worn by the younger generation. [44] (#cite_note-Pillai-54) The difference between these two forms of dress lies in the blouse. Kebaya kompridu is a three-quarter-length blouse while the blouse used with sarong kebaya is short. Both kebayas are fastened with a set of three gold kerongsang pins and are worn over a saias , a sarong (/wiki/Sarong) , similar to the other kebayas. For weddings, the bride may also opt to wear a white kebaya and saias with an elaborate golden headdress and ornate necklace. Both forms of kebaya show Malaysian origin and link the women of the Portuguese Settlement to their neighbours of Baba Nyonya (/wiki/Peranakans) and Chetti Melaka (/wiki/Chitty) rather than the continental Portuguese. [44] (#cite_note-Pillai-54) Kebaya Cocos/ Kebayak and Baskat [ edit ] The Cocos Malays (/wiki/Cocos_Malays) of Sabah also have their own traditional style of kebaya, believed to have been influenced by their Javanese ancestors. They were originally from the Cocos Islands (/wiki/Cocos_(Keeling)_Islands) who settled in Sabah in the 1950s. Along with them, they brought their unique blend of English-Scottish traditions and Malay cultural practices. When attending weddings, ceremonies or performing traditional dances, Cocos Malay females are often dressed in kebayak , a type of kebaya with a frill collar influenced by the European style of clothing in the 1600s. Kebayak is worn over a white corset and kain sarong. The front of the kebayak is fastened with kerongsang brooch, similar to other kebayas. [39] (#cite_note-KebayaCocos-43) The is no much different between kebayak and baskat , the kebaya-like dress worn by the Cocos Malay males during performing traditional dances. The male baskat designs are almost identical to the woman kebayak , but is made shorter and worn along with a sabok , a belt. A sabok functioned as a belt to fasten the sarong as well as an accessory to the attire. The attire is then completed with a songkok pinned with flowers and black leather shoes. [92] (#cite_note-102) [93] (#cite_note-103) For weddings, the bride needs to wear a blue kebayak and three sabok to fasten the sarong, usually in blue, red and yellow. The wedding dress then completed with a yellow selendang that is tied at the upper torso of the bride. The colour blue and yellow are the official colours of Jukong where the blue represents loyalty and the ocean and the yellow represents cheerfulness within the community. [39] (#cite_note-KebayaCocos-43) Kuyu Kebaya [ edit ] As one of the indigenous tribes of Borneo, the Murut (/wiki/Murut_people) community also has a unique kebaya-like traditional dress known as kuyu kebaya . This dress is made of black coloured velvet fabric and can be divided into two parts, the kebaya and the sarong (/wiki/Sarong) . In the past, the kebaya was made plain, however, according to change of time, the kebaya is now made with additional stitches of colourful fine beads or with sequins designed with traditional tribal motifs like flower, leaves or bamboo shoots. Kebaya with decorated beads is usually worn by married women. The colours of the beads are usually white, yellow, red and green while the colours of the sequins are usually more colourful, preferred by the younger generation. This style of kebaya is also worn by the female dancers during traditional performances at wedding or festivals. Kuyu kebaya usually worn with other traditional accessories like peta uluh , a traditional headdress, or siraung , a traditional hat made with decorated beads as well as a belt, necklaces, bracelets and anklet made with decorated beads. [94] (#cite_note-104) Kebarung [ edit ] Kebarung is a combination of the acronyms of "kebaya" and " Kurung (/wiki/Baju_Kurung) ". This style of clothing originated from Selangor (/wiki/Selangor) and was very popular in the early 1990s throughout Malaysia. [8] (#cite_note-Haziyah-8) Its popularity is mainly credited to its loose and long top which is preferred by the more conservative Malays. It is considered to be both modest and elegant at the same time. Traditionally, textiles such as songket (/wiki/Songket) , cottons (/wiki/Cotton) , and woven fabric were frequently used but imported silk or other textiles may also be used instead. The common accessory is dokoh , a piece of jewellery with three brooches made of tin, gold, or silver. Among the local artists who have been fashion icons of kebarung are Ziana Zain (/wiki/Ziana_Zain) and Erra Fazira (/wiki/Erra_Fazira) . [79] (#cite_note-JenisKebaya-89) Political significance [ edit ] Sukarno (/wiki/Sukarno) among Indonesian women in kebaya during Indonesian Women Congress, 1950. In WWII internment camps (/wiki/List_of_Japanese-run_internment_camps_during_World_War_II) of the Japanese occupation of the Dutch East Indies (/wiki/Japanese_occupation_of_the_Dutch_East_Indies) , Indonesian female prisoners refused to wear the Western dress allocated to them and instead wore kebaya as a display of nationalist and racial solidarity to separate them from fellow Chinese, Europeans and Eurasian inmates. [95] (#cite_note-105) In fact, the only woman present during Proclamation of Indonesian Independence (/wiki/Proclamation_of_Indonesian_Independence) , Dutch-educated activist S. K. Trimurti (/wiki/S._K._Trimurti) wore kebaya, cementing it as the female dress of nationalism. After the Independence of Indonesia (/wiki/Independence_of_Indonesia) in 1945, Indonesia's first president, Sukarno (/wiki/Sukarno) has chosen kebaya as the national attire (/wiki/National_costume_of_Indonesia) for Indonesian women. [45] (#cite_note-GNFI-Kebaya-55) [96] (#cite_note-106) Subsequently, kebaya is encouraged to be worn by Indonesian first ladies, the wives of state officials, and also common Indonesian women during official functions and events. Kebayas as the national attire of Indonesian women were often featured by Indonesian first ladies. Fatmawati (/wiki/Fatmawati) and Dewi Sukarno (/wiki/Dewi_Sukarno) , the wives of Sukarno (/wiki/Sukarno) , Indonesia's first president, were known to wear kebaya every day. Subsequently, it has become a norm for Indonesian first ladies (/wiki/First_Spouses_of_Indonesia) to wear kebaya on formal occasions. Nevertheless, the more democratic consensus of kebaya as the national attire actually took place in 1978. The determination of Indonesia's national dress originated from a 1978 conference and workshop in Jakarta, which was attended by representatives of all provinces in Indonesia (/wiki/Provinces_of_Indonesia) . In this workshop, fashion and cultural observers gathered to determine one national dress of the republic. From many types of clothing in Indonesia, at that time, there were four candidates for the national dress, namely kemben (/wiki/Kemben) , kebaya, baju kurung (/wiki/Baju_kurung) , and baju bodo (/wiki/Bodo_blouse) . Fatmawati Sukarno (/wiki/Fatmawati) , Indonesian first lady in kebaya with Indonesian athletes for the Asian Games in New Delhi (/wiki/1951_Asian_Games) (1951). At that time kemben was most strongly associated with Java, baju kurung with Sumatra and Kalimantan and baju bodo with Sulawesi and eastern Indonesia. Kebaya is considered the most neutral and commonly accepted candidate. It has always been a part of people's lives in every region in Indonesia for ages, even during the colonial era, the early independence era to the modern era. Thus, it has become the official national attire of Indonesia, [97] (#cite_note-CNN-Kebaya_Busana_Nasional-107) and one of the country's national identities. [10] (#cite_note-LIPI-Kebaya-11) The Suharto (/wiki/Suharto) -era bureaucrat wives' social organisation Dharma Wanita wears a uniform of gold kebaya, with a red sash ( selendang ) and stamped batik pattern on the kain unique to Dharma Wanita . The late Indonesian first lady and also a minor aristocrat Siti Hartinah (/wiki/Siti_Hartinah) was a prominent advocate of the kebaya. Former President Megawati Sukarnoputri (/wiki/Megawati_Sukarnoputri) is a public champion of kebaya and wears fine red kebaya whenever possible in public forums and 2009 presidential election (/wiki/2009_Indonesian_presidential_election) debates. The 21st of April is celebrated in Indonesia as National Kartini Day where Kartini (/wiki/Kartini) , the female suffragist and education advocate, is remembered by schoolgirls wearing traditional dress according to their region. In Java, Bali and Sunda, it is the kebaya. [98] (#cite_note-ReferenceA-108) Modern usage and innovations [ edit ] Puteri Indonesia 2020 (/wiki/Puteri_Indonesia) ( Miss Universe Indonesia 2020 (/wiki/Miss_Universe_2020) ), Raden Roro Ayu Maulida Putri (/wiki/Ayu_Maulida) together with Miss Universe 2019 (/wiki/Miss_Universe_2019) , Zozibini Tunzi (/wiki/Zozibini_Tunzi) of South Africa (/wiki/South_Africa) wearing Indonesian modern kebaya. Kebaya has been an important part of oriental style clothing that heavily influenced the world of modern fashion. Lace dresses are one of the best examples of Kebaya influence. Apart from traditional kebaya, fashion designers are looking into ways of modifying the design and making kebaya a more fashionable outfit. Casual designed kebaya can even be worn with jeans or skirts. For weddings or formal events, many designers are exploring other types of fine fabrics like laces to create a bridal kebaya. Garuda Indonesia (/wiki/Garuda_Indonesia) flight attendant uniform in kebaya and kain batik (/wiki/Batik) . Modern-day kebaya now incorporate modern tailoring innovations such as clasps, zippers and buttons zippers, being a much appreciated addition for ladies' that promptly need a toilet break, without requiring being literally unwrapped by a helper—to the extent the true traditional kain is near unanimously rejected. Other modern innovations have included the blouse baju kebaya worn without the restrictive kemben, and even the kebaya blouse worn with slacks or made of the fabric usually for the kain panjang . The female flight attendants of Malaysia Airlines (/wiki/Malaysia_Airlines) and Singapore Airlines (/wiki/Singapore_Airlines) also feature batik kebaya as their uniforms. The female uniform of Garuda Indonesia (/wiki/Garuda_Indonesia) flight attendants is a more authentic modern interpretation. The kebaya is designed in simple yet classic Kartini-style kebaya derived from 19th century kebaya of Javanese noblewomen. The kebaya made from fire-proof cotton-polyester fabrics, with batik (/wiki/Batik) sarongs in parang or lereng gondosuli motif, which also incorporate garuda (/wiki/Garuda) wing motifs and small dots representing jasmine (/wiki/Jasmine) . [99] (#cite_note-109) In 2019, there is a surge of kebaya popularity among modern Indonesian women. At MRT stations (/wiki/Jakarta_MRT) in Jakarta (/wiki/Jakarta) , a number of kebaya enthusiasts campaigned to promote kebaya as an everyday fashion for work as well as for casual clothing on weekend. The movement sought to make wearing kebaya the norm among Indonesian women. [15] (#cite_note-JP-Kebaya-17) After quite a long time losing to compete with Western and Muslim fashion, kebaya saw a revival in 2019 in Indonesia, as rising numbers of kebaya enthusiasts proudly don the kebaya in public space. Kebaya began to come out of its "cultural cage" — namely wedding receptions and other traditional events — to public places. Kebaya is starting to appear again in government and private offices, at bus stops, commuter train stations, Transjakarta shelters, in cafes, and malls in Jakarta and other areas. During Hari Kemerdekaan (/wiki/Hari_Kemerdekaan) (independence day) ceremony on 17 August 2019 in Merdeka Palace (/wiki/Merdeka_Palace) , kebaya being proudly worn by VVIP and elites of Indonesian society; namely from first lady, female state ministers, to the wives of state officials and distinguished guests. [100] (#cite_note-110) Currently, Indonesia is making efforts for kebaya to be recognised as a Intangible Cultural Heritage (/wiki/UNESCO_Intangible_Cultural_Heritage_Lists) to the UNESCO (/wiki/UNESCO) . There are some efforts to return the kebaya to its honorable place as Indonesia's fashion icon; by urging Indonesian women to wear kebaya for daily use. [16] (#cite_note-Harsianti-18) Efforts including " Selasa Berkebaya " (Tuesday Kebaya) movement among Indonesian women to popularise the daily use of kebaya. [101] (#cite_note-111) However, some conservative Islamic clerics have condemned the movement as a "veiled apostasy", aimed to demote the use of hijab (/wiki/Hijab) among Indonesian Muslim women. [102] (#cite_note-112) Indeed, some suggested that the kebaya-wearing movement is actually a counter-action against the increasing conservatism and Arabization (/wiki/Arabization) within Indonesian society, that warily saw the increase of niqāb (/wiki/Niq%C4%81b) -wearing among local women. [103] (#cite_note-113) Kebaya has traditionally regarded with a feminine appeal, with "Miss Kebaya" pageants being very popular throughout the region and abroad. Gallery [ edit ] European child with sarong and kebaya, early 20th century European woman in sarong and kebaya, early 20th century Raden Tumenggung Sosronegoro with his wife, a daughter of the Sultan HB VI of Yogyakarta (/wiki/Yogyakarta) (c. 1860–1892) Three daughters of Sultan HB VI of Yogyakarta, circa 1870 Indonesian movie star Chitra Dewi (/wiki/Chitra_Dewi) in kebaya (c. 1960) Hartini Sukarno in kebaya welcoming Cambodian royal couple Sihanouk (/wiki/Norodom_Sihanouk) and Monineath (/wiki/Norodom_Monineath) (1964) Ainun Habibie (/wiki/Hasri_Ainun_Habibie) , the late former Indonesian first lady in blue Javanese kebaya (1998) Kebaya as national attire representing Indonesia in beauty pageant (2012) A sindhen (/wiki/Sindhen) wearing kebaya in Javanese singing performance Balinese women wearing kebaya in Melasti (/wiki/Melasti) ritual ceremony, a self-purification ceremony to welcome Nyepi (/wiki/Nyepi) by all Hindus in Bali (/wiki/Bali) . Sundanese (/wiki/Sundanese_people) Gamelan (/wiki/Gamelan) musicians wearing kebaya from West Java (/wiki/West_Java) , Indonesia (/wiki/Indonesia) A group of Singapore Airlines flight attendants. The colour of their sarong kebaya represents different ranks. Media related to Kebaya (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Kebaya) at Wikimedia Commons Media related to Tropenmuseum (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Tropenmuseum) at Wikimedia Commons See also [ edit ] Clothing portal (/wiki/Portal:Clothing) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Indonesia portal (/wiki/Portal:Indonesia) Malaysia portal (/wiki/Portal:Malaysia) National costume of Indonesia (/wiki/National_costume_of_Indonesia) Culture of Indonesia (/wiki/Culture_of_Indonesia) Culture of Malaysia (/wiki/Culture_of_Malaysia) Culture of Singapore (/wiki/Culture_of_Singapore) Javanese culture (/wiki/Javanese_culture) Htaingmathein (/wiki/Htaingmathein) Notes [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-9) Dutch (/wiki/Dutch_language) and older Indonesian orthography (/wiki/Indonesian_orthography) : kebaja; Javanese (/wiki/Javanese_script) : ꦏꦼꦧꦪ; Jawi (/wiki/Jawi_alphabet) : کباي; Pegon (/wiki/Pegon_script) : كبيا ^ (#cite_ref-16) Tenun means woven fabrics, this includes tenun Bugis, tenun lurik and tenun Pahang ^ (#cite_ref-19) Peranakans (/wiki/Peranakan) are hybrid foreign descent communities, including Baba Nyonya (/wiki/Peranakans) , Chetti Melaka (/wiki/Chitty) , Indo (/wiki/Indo_people) , Jawi Pekan (/wiki/Jawi_Peranakan) , Kristang (/wiki/Kristang_people) , Samsam (/wiki/Malaysian_Siamese) and Cocos Malay (/wiki/Cocos_Malay) ^ (#cite_ref-25) Variations of the term cabaya includes caba, cabai, cabaia, cabaai, cabay and cabaye ^ (#cite_ref-44) Malacca was also under the Dutch rule from 1641-1825 ^ (#cite_ref-47) Known as baju panjang , kebaya panjang , kebaya labuh or baju belah in Malaysia, Singapore and Indonesia. The terms "kebaya" and "baju" are used interchangeably [29] (#cite_note-artsandculture-33) ^ (#cite_ref-48) Straits Settlements consist of Penang (/wiki/Penang) , Malacca (/wiki/Malacca) and Singapore (/wiki/Singapore) ^ (#cite_ref-50) Known as kebaya renda in Malaysia, Singapore and Indonesia. Renda is a Malay word borrowed from the Portuguese term for lace ^ (#cite_ref-51) Known as kebaya biku or kebaya kerawang in Malaysia, Singapore and kebaya kerancang in Indonesia ^ (#cite_ref-52) Known as kebaya sulam in Malaysia, Singapore and kebaya bordir in Indonesia. Sulam is a Malay word for embroidery while bordir is a word borrowed from the Dutch term for embroidery References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-Steele_1-0) Steele, Valerie (2005). Steele Valerie (ed.). Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion . Charles Scribner's Sons. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-684-31395-5 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Welters, Linda; Lillethun, Abby (2018-02-08). Fashion History: A Global View . Bloomsbury Publishing. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-4742-5365-9 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e Annette Lynch-Mitchell D. Strauss, ed. (2014-10-30). Ethnic Dress in the United States: A Cultural Encyclopedia . Rowman & Littlefield. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780759121508 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e Phromsuthirak, Maneepin; Chavalit, Maenmas (2000). Costumes in ASEAN Volume 1, Part 1 of ASEAN studies publication series . National ASEAN Committee on Culture and Information of Thailand. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9789747102833 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d Setiawan, Ferry (2009). 50 Galeri Kebaya Eksotik Nan Cantik (in Indonesian). Niaga Swadaya. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9789793927909 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d World Eco-Fiber & Textile (W.E.F.T) Forum 2003, Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia . Atelier. 2002-09-19. ^ Jump up to: a b c Forshee, Jill (2006). Culture and Customs of Indonesia . Greenwood Publishing Group. 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"Returning to kebaya as Indonesia's fashion icon" (https://www.thejakartapost.com/life/2017/04/27/returning-to-kebaya-as-indonesias-fashion-icon.html) . The Jakarta Post . Retrieved 2021-03-10 . ^ Jump up to: a b Khor, Samantha (23 March 2020). "The Origin of the Kebaya and How It Became an ASEAN Icon" (https://www.ourdaily.co/assets/blt53f2336bf71319a7/the-origin-of-the-kebaya-and-how-it-became-an-asean-icon) . www.ourdaily.co . Ourdaily . Retrieved 17 December 2020 . [ permanent dead link ] ^ (#cite_ref-Expat_21-0) "The Kebaya - An Indonesian Traditional Dress for Women" (https://www.expat.or.id/info/kebayatraditionaldress.html) . www.expat.or.id . Retrieved 2019-10-10 . ^ (#cite_ref-lombard_22-0) Denys Lombard (1990). Le carrefour javanais: essai d'histoire globale . Civilisations et sociétés (in French). École des hautes études en sciences sociales. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 2-7132-0949-8 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f Lee, Peter (2014). Sarong Kebaya: Peranakan Fashion in an Interconnected World, 1500-1950 . University of Hawaii Press. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9789810901462 . ^ (#cite_ref-Subrahmanyam_24-0) Sanjay Subrahmanyam (2012). Courtly Encounters: Translating Courtliness and Violence in Early Modern Eurasia . Harvard University Press. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780674067363 . ^ (#cite_ref-26) "Hobson-Jobson" (https://dsal.uchicago.edu/cgi-bin/app/hobsonjobson_query.py?qs=CABAYA&searchhws=yes) . dsal.uchicago.edu . Retrieved 2021-03-15 . ^ Jump up to: a b Triyanto (29 December 2010). "Kebaya Sebagai Trend Busana Wanita Indonesia dari Masa ke Masa" (https://staff.uny.ac.id/sites/default/files/Buku%20KEBAYA%20(INTAN).pdf) (PDF) (in Indonesian). {{ cite journal (/wiki/Template:Cite_journal) }} : Cite journal requires |journal= ( help (/wiki/Help:CS1_errors#missing_periodical) ) ^ (#cite_ref-28) Times, I. D. N.; Khalika, Nindias. 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"Dress and Visual Identities of the Nyonyas in the British Straits Settlement". {{ cite journal (/wiki/Template:Cite_journal) }} : Cite journal requires |journal= ( help (/wiki/Help:CS1_errors#missing_periodical) ) ^ Jump up to: a b "Cochin Creole and the perils of casteist cosmopolitanism: Reading Requiem for the Living" (https://www.researchgate.net/publication/276317072) . Retrieved 2021-03-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-Kavaya2_37-0) "Red checks and floral jackets" (https://www.thehindu.com/features/friday-review/history-and-culture/red-checks-and-floral-jackets/article5182317.ece) . The Hindu . 29 September 2013 . Retrieved 2021-03-19 . ^ (#cite_ref-38) "Boatbuilding In Ponjikkara" (https://www.sahapedia.org/boatbuilding-ponjikkara) . Retrieved 2021-03-21 . ^ (#cite_ref-Alessandra_39-0) Lopez y Royo, Alessandra (2019-10-31). Contemporary Indonesian Fashion: Through the Looking Glass . Bloomsbury Publishing. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781350061316 . ^ (#cite_ref-Chavalit_40-0) Chavalit, Maenmas; Phromsuthirak, Maneepin (2000). Costumes in ASEAN . ASEAN Committee on Culture and Information. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9747102838 . ^ (#cite_ref-Tempo-Kebaya_41-0) "Dari Noni Sampai Kartini" (https://koran.tempo.co/read/topik/349968/dari-noni-sampai-kartini) . Koran Tempo (in Indonesian). 2014-08-24 . Retrieved 2021-03-14 . ^ (#cite_ref-Pentasari_42-0) Pentasari, Ria (2007). Chic in Kebaya (in Indonesian). ESENSI. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9789790152113 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Rusmadiah Anwar, ed. (2018). Proceedings of the Art and Design International Conference (AnDIC 2016) . Springer. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9789811304873 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f "Kebaya Encim as the Phenomenon of Mimicry in East Indies Dutch Colonial's Culture" (https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/234685846.pdf) (PDF) . Retrieved 2021-03-20 . ^ (#cite_ref-46) "Sejarah Kebaya di Masa Kolonial: Busana Perempuan Tiga Etnis" (https://tirto.id/sejarah-kebaya-di-masa-kolonial-busana-perempuan-tiga-etnis-eeuK) . tirto.id (in Indonesian) . Retrieved 2019-10-10 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f Koh, Jaime. "Nonya kebaya" (https://eresources.nlb.gov.sg/infopedia/articles/SIP_2013-09-27_173744.html) . Singapore Infopedia . Retrieved 2021-03-07 . ^ Jump up to: a b c "Pakaian Chetti Melaka" (http://www.theinsiderarchived.com/opinion/uthaya-sankar/article/pakaian-chetti-melaka/pakaian-chetti-melaka) . The Malaysian Insider (in Malay) . Retrieved 2021-02-02 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Patrick Pillai, ed. (2016). Yearning to Belong . Flipside Digital Content Company Inc. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9789814762007 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Adriani Zulivan (4 March 2017). "Benarkah Kebaya adalah Pakaian Asli Indonesia?" (https://www.goodnewsfromindonesia.id/2017/03/04/benarkah-kebaya-adalah-pakaian-asli-indonesia) . Good News From Indonesia (in Indonesian). ^ (#cite_ref-56) Panular, P. B. R. Carey, The British in Java, 1811-1816: a Javanese account : a text edition, English synopsis and commentary on British Library Additional Manuscript 12330 (Babad Bĕdhah ing Ngayogyakarta) , British Academy by Oxford University Press: 1992, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-19-726062-4 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-19-726062-4) , 611 pages ^ (#cite_ref-57) John Pemberton, On the subject of "Java" , Cornell University Press: 1994, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-8014-9963-1 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-8014-9963-1) , 333 pages ^ (#cite_ref-58) "Kebaya dan Sanggul, Akulturasi Budaya Dunia dalam Budaya Indonesia" (https://redaksiindonesia.com/read/kebaya-dan-sanggul-akulturasi-budaya-dunia-dalam-budaya-indonesia.html) . Redaksi Indonesia (in Indonesian). 2019-07-02 . Retrieved 2021-03-15 . ^ (#cite_ref-59) Irwan. "Makna Dan Filosofi Pakaian Adat Wanita Jawa" (https://www.lenterajogja.com/2016/07/makna-dan-filosofi-pakaian-adat-wanita.html) . Lentera Jogja (in Indonesian) . Retrieved 2021-03-15 . ^ (#cite_ref-60) "Arti Kata angkin - Indonesia Inggris Kamus Translate dan Terjemahan" (https://www.kamuskbbi.id/indonesia/english.php?mod=view&angkin&id=19601-kamus-inggris-indonesia.html) . www.kamuskbbi.id . Retrieved 2021-03-15 . ^ (#cite_ref-61) kamuslengkap.com. "Arti kata stagen dalam kamus Indonesia-Inggris" (https://kamuslengkap.com/kamus/indonesia-inggris/arti-kata/stagen) . Kamuslengkap.com . Retrieved 2021-03-15 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d Widiyarti, Yayuk (2019-07-17). "Aneka Jenis Kebaya Indonesia, Mana yang Paling Anda Suka?" (https://cantik.tempo.co/read/1225566/aneka-jenis-kebaya-indonesia-mana-yang-paling-anda-suka) . Tempo (in Indonesian) . 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Retrieved 2021-02-02 . ^ (#cite_ref-KebayaSelangor2_91-0) "Selangor's own kebaya" (https://www.thestar.com.my/news/community/2012/05/03/selangors-own-kebaya/) . The Star . Retrieved 2021-02-02 . ^ (#cite_ref-92) "Just Call Me Datuk" (https://web.archive.org/web/20010509015254/http://www.asiaweek.com/asiaweek/magazine/nations/0%2C8782%2C107705%2C00.html) . Asiaweek . 27 (17). 4 May 2001. ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 1012-6244 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/1012-6244) . Archived from the original (http://www.asiaweek.com/asiaweek/magazine/nations/0,8782,107705,00.html) on 9 May 2001 . Retrieved 3 February 2021 . ^ Jump up to: a b Zakaria, Alias (2017). Busana Tradisional Negeri Sembilan (UUM Press) (in Malay). UUM Press. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9789672210191 . ^ (#cite_ref-KebayaPerlis1_94-0) CITRA BUDAYA JKKN BIL. 2/2019 (in Malay). Jabatan Kebudayaan dan Kesenian Negara. 2019. ^ (#cite_ref-KebayaPerlis2_95-0) "Bringing back Kebaya Perlis" (https://www.thestar.com.my/metro/metro-news/2020/11/05/bringing-back---kebaya-perlis) . The Star . Retrieved 2021-02-02 . ^ Jump up to: a b c "Saloma dapat jolokan 'Marilyn Monroe of The East' (https://www.bharian.com.my/wanita/fesyen/2017/08/313080/saloma-dapat-jolokan-marilyn-monroe-east) " (https://www.bharian.com.my/wanita/fesyen/2017/08/313080/saloma-dapat-jolokan-marilyn-monroe-east) . BeritaHarian (in Malay). 16 August 2017 . Retrieved 2021-02-02 . ^ Jump up to: a b Mohammad, Hidayah (24 August 2019). "Cantik berkebaya, tapi awas! Jangan sembarang pakai" (https://www.bharian.com.my/wanita/fesyen/2019/08/599481/cantik-berkebaya-tapi-awas-jangan-sembarang-pakai) . Berita Harian . Retrieved 2021-03-10 . ^ (#cite_ref-98) Koh, Jaime. "Nonya kebaya" (https://eresources.nlb.gov.sg/infopedia/articles/SIP_2013-09-27_173744.html) . Singapore Infopedia . Retrieved 2021-02-05 . ^ (#cite_ref-KebayaChetti2_99-0) "It's a kain and kebaya Deepavali for Melaka Chetties" (https://www.freemalaysiatoday.com/category/nation/2019/10/26/its-a-kain-and-kebaya-deepavali-for-melaka-chetties/) . Free Malaysia Today . Retrieved 2021-03-10 . ^ (#cite_ref-JawiPekan_100-0) Yusoff, Omar (2010). Jawi Peranakan di Pulau Pinang (in Malay). Penerbit USM. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9789674610869 . ^ (#cite_ref-KebayaKristang_101-0) Sarkissian, Margaret (2000). D'Albuquerque's Children: Performing Tradition in Malaysia's Portuguese Settlement . University of Chicago Press. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780226734989 . ^ (#cite_ref-102) "Busana Pakaian Tradisi Suku Kaum Cocos" (https://www.scribd.com/document/391450338/Busana-Pakaian-Tradisi-Suku-Kaum-Cocos) . Retrieved 3 February 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-103) Wacana kurator Jabatan Muzium Malaysia (in Malay). Jabatan Muzium Malaysia. 2011. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9789670372020 . ^ (#cite_ref-104) "Kuyu Kebaya Pakaian Tradisi Murut Brunei" (http://www.pelitabrunei.gov.bn/Lists/Rencana/NewDisplayForm.aspx?ID=539&ContentTypeId=0x0100AB69AA555002494AB2FB40905279B027) . Retrieved 5 February 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-105) Cattoni Reading The Kebaya paper was presented to the 15th Biennial Conference of the Asian Studies Association of Australia in Canberra 29 June-2 July 2004: 8 ^ (#cite_ref-106) "Sejarah di Balik Terpilihnya Kebaya sebagai Kostum Nasional" (http://www.dewimagazine.com/news/sejarah-di-balik-terpilihnya-kebaya-sebagai-kostum-nasional) . www.dewimagazine.com (in Indonesian) . Retrieved 2021-02-05 . ^ (#cite_ref-CNN-Kebaya_Busana_Nasional_107-0) tim (18 August 2019). "Jalan Kebaya Terpilih Jadi Busana Nasional Indonesia" (https://www.cnnindonesia.com/gaya-hidup/20190815162917-277-421669/jalan-kebaya-terpilih-jadi-busana-nasional-indonesia) . CNN Indonesia (in Indonesian) . Retrieved 2021-02-05 . ^ (#cite_ref-ReferenceA_108-0) Jill Forshee, Culture and customs of Indonesia , Greenwood Publishing Group, 2006. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-313-33339-4 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-313-33339-4) , 237 pages ^ (#cite_ref-109) Kompas Female Terbang Bersama Kebaya (http://female.kompas.com/read/xml/2010/09/26/11502730/terbang.bersama.kebaya) ^ (#cite_ref-110) "Disrupsi Budaya di Balik Keindahan Kebaya" (https://indonesia.go.id/ragam/budaya/kebudayaan/disrupsi-budaya-di-balik-keindahan-kebaya) . indonesia.go.id . 28 August 2019 . Retrieved 5 February 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-111) "#SelasaBerkebaya movement aims to promote 'kebaya' as daily outfit" (https://www.thejakartapost.com/news/2019/07/04/selasaberkebaya-movement-aims-to-promote-kebaya-as-daily-outfit.html) . The Jakarta Post . Retrieved 2019-10-10 . ^ (#cite_ref-112) "Saat Gerakan Berkebaya Dituduh Agenda Permurtadan Terselubung" (https://tirto.id/ef6G) (in Indonesian). Tirto.id . Retrieved 15 August 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-113) Latumahina, Jeannie (2018-04-04). "Puisi Sukmawati Gerakan Keadilan budaya" (https://serikatnews.com/puisi-sukmawati-gerakan-keadilan-budaya/) . Media Kritis Anak Bangsa (in Indonesian) . Retrieved 2019-10-10 . External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Kebaya (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Kebaya) . Indonesian Textiles (http://www.expat.or.id/info/traditionaltextiles.html) Reading The Kebaya (http://coombs.anu.edu.au/SpecialProj/ASAA/biennial-conference/2004/Cattoni-V-ASAA2004.pdf) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20070905165653/http://coombs.anu.edu.au/SpecialProj/ASAA/biennial-conference/2004/Cattoni-V-ASAA2004.pdf) 2007-09-05 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) Variety Indonesian Kebaya (http://gosocio.co.id/mengenal-jenis-jenis-kebaya-di-indonesia.html/) v t e Indonesian clothing (/wiki/National_costume_of_Indonesia) Clothing identified with Indonesian culture (/wiki/Culture_of_Indonesia) and still worn today Textiles and weaving Geringsing (/wiki/Geringsing) Kain Bali (/wiki/Balinese_textiles) Kain Sumba (/wiki/Textiles_of_Sumba) Kain kulit kayu (/wiki/Barkcloth) Lurik Songket (/wiki/Songket) Tapis (/wiki/Tapis_(Indonesian_weaving_style)) Tenun (/wiki/Tenun) Ulos (/wiki/Ulos) Dyeing Batik (/wiki/Batik) Ikat (/wiki/Ikat) Jumputan (/wiki/Tie-dye) Prada Clothing 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Italian men's apparel brand For the island in St Petersburg, Russia, see Kamenny Ostrov (/wiki/Kamenny_Ostrov) . For the 2000 AD comic, see Stone Island (2000AD) (/wiki/Stone_Island_(2000AD)) Stone Island Company type Società per azioni (/wiki/Societ%C3%A0_per_azioni) Industry Fashion (/wiki/Fashion) Founded 1982 ; 42 years ago ( 1982 ) in Ravarino (/wiki/Ravarino) , Italy Founder Massimo Osti (/wiki/Massimo_Osti) Headquarters Ravarino, Italy Key people Robert Triefus (CEO) Revenue € (/wiki/Euro) 401 million (2022) [1] (#cite_note-1) Parent (/wiki/Parent_company) Moncler (/wiki/Moncler) Website Stone Island (http://www.stoneisland.com) Stone Island is an Italian luxury fashion house (/wiki/Fashion_design) specialized in men's apparel, outerwear, and accessories headquartered in Ravarino, Emilia-Romagna (/wiki/Ravarino) , Italy. Its core branding includes a Nautical star (/wiki/Nautical_star) and compass, both of which is printed or overlaid atop a button-on cloth badge with green, yellow, and black detailing. Founded in 1982 by Massimo Osti (/wiki/Massimo_Osti) , the brand became popular during the 1980s and 1990s in Europe and Japan, and during the 2010s, in the U.S. and Canada. Stone Island uses trademark reflective fabric, dyeing (/wiki/Dyeing) compounds, and surface treatments to produce garments. It was acquired by Italian fashion house Moncler (/wiki/Moncler) in 2020 for €1.15 billion. [2] (#cite_note-:0-2) [3] (#cite_note-3) It is a global staple of youth subculture (/wiki/Youth_subculture) as characterized by Italian Paninaro (/wiki/Paninaro) , English football casuals (/wiki/Casual_(subculture)) , British, American, and Canadian hip hop culture, as well as world-wide streetwear. [4] (#cite_note-:3-4) [5] (#cite_note-:4-5) History [ edit ] Designer Massimo Osti (/wiki/Massimo_Osti) founded Stone Island in 1982, in Ravarino, Italy. He founded the brand to compliment his flagship label, C.P. Company (/wiki/C.P._Company) , which he started in 1971. [6] (#cite_note-6) Osti sold 50% of Stone Island to GFT (Gruppo Finanziario Tessile) in 1983, before selling the remaining half to GFT in 1991. He left the company in 1994 and was succeeded by Paul Harvey as head designer from 1996 to 2008. GFT sold Stone Island in 1993 to Italian businessman Carlo Rivetti, who combined the label with C.P. Company Sportswear Company SpA. [7] (#cite_note-7) Stone Island rapidly became popular during the 1990s in Europe and Japan, and during the 2010s, in the U.S. and Canada. [8] (#cite_note-:1-8) In 2017, Singaporean sovereign wealth fund Temasek Holdings (/wiki/Temasek_Holdings) bought out a 30% stake in Stone Island valued at €345 million. [9] (#cite_note-9) [10] (#cite_note-10) Three years later, Italian fashion house Moncler (/wiki/Moncler) bought a majority stake in Stone Island for a reported €1.15 billion. [11] (#cite_note-11) [2] (#cite_note-:0-2) Throughout the 2010s and 2020s, Stone Island has collaborated with several design companies such as Supreme (/wiki/Supreme_(brand)) , Dior (/wiki/Dior) , Nike (/wiki/Nike,_Inc.) , Adidas (/wiki/Adidas) , and New Balance (/wiki/New_Balance) , among others. [12] (#cite_note-:2-12) Brand identity [ edit ] Stone Island's yellow-green Compass Badge, 2013 The name Stone Island is derived from Polish-British pre-modernist writer Joseph Conrad (/wiki/Joseph_Conrad) 's novels wherein the words "stone" and "island" appear most frequently (/wiki/Joseph_Conrad#Writing_style) . [13] (#cite_note-13) [14] (#cite_note-14) According to founder Massimo Osti, his novels' exploration of "boats and sea" moved him to create a brand with "[a] new sensibility oriented to science instead of fashion". [12] (#cite_note-:2-12) The brand emphasizes anti-fashion (/wiki/Anti-fashion) , prioritizing function over form (/wiki/Form_follows_function) . [12] (#cite_note-:2-12) The logo references a compass (/wiki/Compass) , affixed with a nautical star (/wiki/Nautical_star) . It is recognizable by the use of a cloth badge that features the compass design on the left side of a garment. [15] (#cite_note-15) Stone Island focuses on technical apparel (/wiki/Technical_textile) research, development, and manufacturing. [16] (#cite_note-16) It is known for its approach to fabrication through a range of dyeing (/wiki/Dyeing) techniques and surface treatments. These include the use of Raso Gommato in 1983, thermosensitive fabric in 1987, rubber wool in 1987, and reflective fabric in 1991. Originally, the patches were green edged, but from around the year 2000 onwards they became black edged. Subculture [ edit ] Stone Island was initially popular with "wealthy middle-class teens" in Italy, but  by the mid-1980s, the brand had gained popularity among the football casual subculture in the United Kingdom. [12] (#cite_note-:2-12) [17] (#cite_note-17) As a result, the brand became associated with football hooliganism, and some venues and pubs banned customers who wore the brand. [18] (#cite_note-18) The brand's association with football hooliganism was reinforced by several films released in the early 2000s, including The Football Factory (/wiki/The_Football_Factory_(film)) and Green Street (/wiki/Green_Street_(film)) , which featured prominent characters wearing the brand. [19] (#cite_note-19) Its presence in the U.S. and Canada starting in the early 2000s was bolstered by streetwear and hip hop culture (/wiki/Hip_hop_(culture)) . [8] (#cite_note-:1-8) Its largest consumer base was noted by Esquire (/wiki/Esquire_(magazine)) as being "Milanese youth, English football fanatics, athletes, and celebrities". [5] (#cite_note-:4-5) British magazine i-D (/wiki/I-D) described Stone Island as a high-end status symbol (/wiki/Status_symbol) among youth who show off the compass logo in a practice known as "getting the badge in". [4] (#cite_note-:3-4) See also [ edit ] Company portal (/wiki/Portal:Company) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Italy portal (/wiki/Portal:Italy) Moncler (/wiki/Moncler) Arc'teryx (/wiki/Arc%27teryx) Italian fashion (/wiki/Italian_fashion) Cult brand (/wiki/Cult_brand) 1990s in fashion (/wiki/1990s_in_fashion) 2020s in fashion (/wiki/2020s_in_fashion) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Moncler Buys Stone Island in Transformative Move" (https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/luxury/moncler-acquires-stone-island) . 7 December 2020. ^ Jump up to: a b Tognini, Giacomo. "Italian Billionaire Remo Ruffini Adding Hip-Hop Favored Label Stone Island To His Pricey Sportswear Brand Moncler" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/giacomotognini/2020/12/07/italian-billionaire-remo-ruffini-adding-hip-hop-favored-label-stone-island-to-his-pricey-sportswear-brand-moncler/) . Forbes . Retrieved 2023-08-23 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "Moncler mette le mani su Stone Island per 1,15 miliardi di euro" (https://forbes.it/2020/12/07/moncler-compra-stone-island-per-115-miliardi-di-euro/) . forbes.it . Retrieved 7 December 2020 . ^ Jump up to: a b Gordan, Callum (May 7, 2019). "An ode to Stone Island, the brand that Britain misunderstood" (https://i-d.vice.com/en/article/d3nq7v/stone-island-subcultures) . i-d.vice.com . Retrieved August 24, 2023 . ^ Jump up to: a b Rikhy, Trishna (2023-07-07). "Like the Brand Itself, the Best Stone Island Pieces Stand the Test of Time" (https://www.esquire.com/style/mens-fashion/g44463330/best-stone-island-pieces/) . Esquire . Retrieved 2023-08-24 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Company history (https://www.drapersonline.com/people/the-drapers-interview/stone-islands-guiding-light) Drapers Online, 2012 ^ (#cite_ref-7) "MY HISTORY, MY COMPANY BY CARLO RIVETTI" (https://www.stoneisland.com/experience/us/the-brand/my-history/) . ^ Jump up to: a b Sullivan, Nick (2018-10-18). "Stone Island's Owner Explains How the Brand Blew Up in America" (https://www.esquire.com/style/mens-fashion/a23744277/stone-island-carlo-rivetti-shadow-project-interview/) . Esquire . Retrieved 2023-08-23 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Stone Island Sells 30% Stake to Temasek" (https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/news-bites/stone-island-sells-30-stake-to-temasek) . The Business of Fashion . 2017-08-01 . Retrieved 2017-08-01 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "Moncler Takes Full Control of Stone Island" (https://finance.yahoo.com/news/moncler-takes-full-control-stone-204518261.html) . finance.yahoo.com . 2021-02-23 . Retrieved 2023-08-24 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Monclergroup - Stone Island: Brand Overview | Moncler Group" (https://www.monclergroup.com/en/brands/stone-island) . Monclergroup . Retrieved 2023-03-08 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d Nuti, Gregorio (August 5, 2021). "From Tela Stella to Kevlar, the history of the Stone Island brand" (https://www.lampoonmagazine.com/article/2021/08/05/stone-island-storia-book/) . Lampoon Magazine . Retrieved August 23, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) Flaccavento, Angelo (December 15, 2019). " (https://system-magazine.com/issues/issue-14/archive-stone-island) 'The clothes tags stated it clearly: 'Ideas from Massimo Osti. (https://system-magazine.com/issues/issue-14/archive-stone-island) " . System Magazine . Retrieved August 23, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) Hawkins, Laura (2020-11-08). "Celebrating the fabric futurism of Stone Island" (https://www.wallpaper.com/fashion/rizzoli-celebrates-stone-island-book) . wallpaper.com . Retrieved 2023-08-23 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) History of the iconic Stone Island Patch (http://bigbrandboys.com/fashion/fashion-history-the-stone-island-patch/) ^ (#cite_ref-16) Lennox, Will (November 17, 2022). "Stone Island has finally embraced its hooliganism" (https://www.gq.com.au/style/trends/stone-island-new-balance-collaboration/image-gallery/87898b9bd82c2b9c21733b95bd9e0571) . GQ Australia . Retrieved August 23, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) Thornton, Phil (2003). Casuals: Football, Fighting and Fashion - The Story of a Terrace Cult . Milo Books. p. 163. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1903854143 . {{ cite book (/wiki/Template:Cite_book) }} : CS1 maint: date and year ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_date_and_year) ) ^ (#cite_ref-18) "Pub-goers facing 'Burberry' ban" (http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/england/leicestershire/3583900.stm) . 2004-08-20 . Retrieved 2024-07-11 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) Zamet, Isaac (2024-02-23). "Royal rabble? Cassius Taylor signs up as ambassador for Stone Island, designer of famous footy hooligan clobber" (https://www.tatler.com/article/cassius-taylor-stone-island-royal) . Tatler . Retrieved 2024-07-11 . External links [ edit ] Official website (http://www.stoneisland.com/) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐5d765b8557‐wtn8j Cached time: 20240711224626 Cache expiry: 1732415 Reduced expiry: true Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.324 seconds Real time usage: 0.630 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 2030/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 37542/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 1176/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 15/100 Expensive parser function count: 4/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 66775/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.202/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 6862222/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 375.378 1 -total 44.89% 168.506 1 Template:Reflist 34.83% 130.737 14 Template:Cite_web 24.82% 93.179 1 Template:Infobox_company 22.33% 83.810 1 Template:Infobox 18.30% 68.696 1 Template:Short_description 9.89% 37.116 2 Template:Pagetype 7.05% 26.463 1 Template:Portal 5.62% 21.107 6 Template:Main_other 4.98% 18.685 1 Template:SDcat Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:2831326-0!canonical and timestamp 20240711224626 and revision id 1233976963. 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Gloves designed for cycling This article has multiple issues. Please help improve it (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Cycling_glove) or discuss these issues on the talk page (/wiki/Talk:Cycling_glove) . ( Learn how and when to remove these template messages (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) This article does not cite (/wiki/Wikipedia:Citing_sources) any sources (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this article (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Cycling_glove) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability#Burden_of_evidence) . Find sources: "Cycling glove" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Cycling+glove%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Cycling+glove%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Cycling+glove%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Cycling+glove%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Cycling+glove%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Cycling+glove%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( December 2017 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) This article needs additional citations for verification (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this article (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Cycling_glove) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Find sources: "Cycling glove" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Cycling+glove%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Cycling+glove%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Cycling+glove%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Cycling+glove%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Cycling+glove%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Cycling+glove%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( February 2008 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Cycling gloves are gloves (/wiki/Glove) designed for cycling (/wiki/Cycling) . They may provide warmth, comfort and protection. A white leather fingerless cycling glove on a man's hand Basic functionality [ edit ] Warmth [ edit ] Handlebar mitts on electric scooters. Gloves are frequently used to keep the hands warm, a function that is particularly necessary when cycling in cold weather. The design of most modern bicycles (/wiki/Bicycle) is such that the rider's hands remain on the handlebars (/wiki/Bicycle_handlebar) while cycling, a position that leaves them exposed to weather. The hands are also relatively inactive, and do not have a great deal of muscle mass, which also contributes to the possibility of chill. Gloves are therefore vital for insulating (/wiki/Thermal_insulation) the hands from cold, wind, and evaporative cooling (/wiki/Evaporative_cooling) while riding a bicycle. Grip [ edit ] In warm weather, sweat from cyclists' hands can cause difficulty maintaining control over the bicycle by making handlebars slippery and difficult to hold without increased hand tension (which can cause further issues and numbness). Cycling gloves, some designed without full finger covering and with ventilation to reduce temperature (the opposite intention of cold weather gloves) are used to increase grip and prevent sweat from making handlebars slippery. Comfort [ edit ] Cycling places a good deal of stress on the hands, in the form of prolonged pressure against handlebars and transmission of sudden road shocks through handlebars to the hands. The severity of discomfort can be mitigated somewhat by riding position, but is essentially inherent in most designs of upright bicycle. However, choice of weight distribution between the saddle and handlebars is usually determined by other factors, such as aerodynamics, control and long-term comfort. Padded gloves or handlebar grips are therefore useful to increase comfort for a given geometry. However, excess padding can lead to other problems. Normally the hands will rest on the bones in the heel of the hand - too much padding will tend to press on the soft tissues between these and can compress the nerves in the hands, causing something akin to carpal tunnel syndrome (/wiki/Carpal_tunnel_syndrome) . Face and nose wiping [ edit ] Cyclists often deal with perspiration and nose running on a constant basis. Because clothes and paper tissues may be difficult and time-consuming to use during cycling, many cyclists have resorted to using the backs of their gloves to wipe the sweat from their faces and the nasal mucus that drips from their noses. Many modern cycling gloves come with a built in "nose wipe" on the back of the hand, typically on the thumb or forefinger or both. Aftermarket fabric nose wipes that slip onto the back of the hand or wrist of the glove are also preferred by some cyclists. Protection [ edit ] Putting a hand out to break a fall is a natural reaction. However, the hands are one of the more difficult parts of the body to repair. There is little or no spare skin, and immobilising the hands sufficiently to promote healing involves significant inconvenience to the patient. So, many cyclists choose to wear gloves all year round to help avoid skin damage in a fall. Types of gloves [ edit ] Fingerless (/wiki/Fingerless_gloves) cycling gloves, also known as track mitts . These have a lightly padded palm of leather (/wiki/Leather) (natural or synthetic), gel (/wiki/Gel) or other material. Historically track mitts were string-backed but now are almost always made of a man-made textile containing elastane (/wiki/Elastane) . Leather-palmed track mitts and cork handlebar tape are widely reckoned to work well for drop-bar touring bikes. Windproof/waterproof full-finger gloves are useful in spring and autumn, when real warmth is not an issue. These are also generally showerproof but will become soggy in heavy rain. Palms may be treated to improve friction with brake levers. Winter gloves tend to be bulkier, perhaps being made in two parts, inner and outer, so that the inner can be washed. They will tend to have longer cuffs, to tuck into jackets and avoid the wrists being chilled, a waterproof exterior and a layer of insulation between that and the liner or inner glove. Mittens are good in extreme cold as they allow a single pocket of warm air to form around the fingers. They make use of some brakes somewhat awkward. Some riders use a thin inner glove and a skiing (/wiki/Skiing) mitten over the top when riding in below-freezing temperatures. Lobster-claw gloves or lobster mittens are halfway between glove and mitten. Two fingers are placed in each of two wide fingers, giving much of the advantage of mittens but making use of brake levers much easier. Mountain biking has evolved to the point where it has its own style of safety gear, including a cycling glove designed for off-road riding. They have more padding, to increase shock absorption and overall comfort, full-finger protection, and leather palms. Handlebar mitts: Riders who spend an extended amount of time in very cold weather may place handlebar mitts on their bicycle handlebars, to keep wind, cold, and precipitation away from hands and handlebar area. These are not technically considered "gloves" as they are not worn on the hand, but they fulfill the same function. They often resemble the pogies used in watersports. Weathershields are small water- and windproof shields that attach to the handlebars and protect the hands from rain and wind. Though not gloves, they serve a similar purpose. Care of gloves [ edit ] Sweat from hands can make one's gloves become unpleasant quite quickly, so it is best to store them so that air can circulate inside if at all possible (for example on a radiator). After a wet or hard ride it may be best to turn them inside-out to dry. Leather gloves can be washed in cool water and are reportedly best dried out on the hands. See also [ edit ] Sports portal (/wiki/Portal:Sports) Transport portal (/wiki/Portal:Transport) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Baseball glove (/wiki/Baseball_glove) Batting glove (/wiki/Batting_glove) Cycling kit (/wiki/Cycling_kit) Driving glove (/wiki/Driving_glove) Wicket-keeper's gloves (/wiki/Wicket-keeper%27s_gloves) References [ edit ] NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.eqiad.main‐8645764cd7‐tngv9 Cached time: 20240713041605 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.209 seconds Real time usage: 0.418 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 543/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 45258/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 10509/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 15/100 Expensive parser function count: 5/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 0/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 7987/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.117/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 2789176/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 257.360 1 -total 85.32% 219.580 3 Template:Ambox 51.52% 132.598 1 Template:Multiple_issues 36.20% 93.161 1 Template:Unreferenced 28.11% 72.343 1 Template:Short_description 17.85% 45.933 2 Template:Find_sources_mainspace 15.83% 40.746 1 Template:Portal 15.21% 39.132 2 Template:Pagetype 8.12% 20.903 4 Template:Main_other 7.15% 18.402 1 Template:SDcat Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:2898359-0!canonical and timestamp 20240713041605 and revision id 1196220555. Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Cycling_glove&oldid=1196220555 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Cycling_glove&oldid=1196220555) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Cycling clothing (/wiki/Category:Cycling_clothing) Sports gloves (/wiki/Category:Sports_gloves) Hidden categories: Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description is different from Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_is_different_from_Wikidata) Articles lacking sources from December 2017 (/wiki/Category:Articles_lacking_sources_from_December_2017) All articles lacking sources (/wiki/Category:All_articles_lacking_sources) Articles needing additional references from February 2008 (/wiki/Category:Articles_needing_additional_references_from_February_2008) All articles needing additional references (/wiki/Category:All_articles_needing_additional_references) Articles with multiple maintenance issues (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_multiple_maintenance_issues)

Costume and fashion of the 1990s Example of 1990s men's and women's fashion, 1994 Bob cuts (/wiki/Bob_cut) were favored by women. ( Saffron (/wiki/Saffron_(singer)) , 1996 ) Fashion in the 1990s was defined by a return to minimalist (/wiki/Minimalism) fashion (/wiki/Fashion) , [1] (#cite_note-1) in contrast to the more elaborate and flashy trends of the 1980s (/wiki/1980s_in_fashion) . One notable shift was the mainstream adoption of tattoos (/wiki/Tattoo) , [2] (#cite_note-2) body piercings (/wiki/Body_piercing) aside from ear piercing (/wiki/Ear_piercing) [3] (#cite_note-3) and, to a much lesser extent, other forms of body modification (/wiki/Body_modification) such as branding (/wiki/Human_branding) . In the early 1990s, several late 1980s fashions remained very stylish among men and women. However, the popularity of grunge (/wiki/Grunge) and alternative rock (/wiki/Alternative_rock) music helped bring the simple, unkempt grunge look to the mainstream by that period. This approach to fashion led to the popularization of the casual chic (/wiki/Casual_chic) look, which included T-shirts (/wiki/T-shirt) , jeans (/wiki/Jeans) , hoodies (/wiki/Hoodie) , and sneakers (/wiki/Sneakers) , a trend which would continue into the 2000s. Additionally, fashion trends throughout the decade recycled styles from previous decades, [4] (#cite_note-4) most notably the 1950s, 1960s and 1970s. Unlike the 1980s, when fashion with volume was commonplace, the 1990s was more characterized as time when fashion was decidedly low maintenance. [5] (#cite_note-5) The 1990s was also time when more people began to value fashion as an intellectual form. [6] (#cite_note-6) During this period, alternative fashion (/wiki/Alternative_fashion) strategies become part of the commercial format. [7] (#cite_note-7) Resistance to generally accepted fashion (/wiki/Fashion) trends became one of the basic principles of fashion in the 1990s. [8] (#cite_note-8) Elements of deconstruction (/wiki/Deconstruction_(fashion)) in costume became an important element of commercial fashion. [9] (#cite_note-9) Due to increased availability of the Internet (/wiki/History_of_the_Internet#Internet_use_in_wider_society) [10] (#cite_note-10) and satellite television outside the United States, plus the reduction of import tariffs under NAFTA (/wiki/NAFTA) , fashion became more globalized (/wiki/Cultural_globalization) [11] (#cite_note-11) and homogeneous in the late 1990s [12] (#cite_note-12) and early 2000s. [13] (#cite_note-13) [14] (#cite_note-14) Women's fashion [ edit ] Early 1990s (1990–1992) [ edit ] Actress Paula Abdul (/wiki/Paula_Abdul) wearing semi-transparent black dress, curled hair and smoky eye makeup, 1990. Young woman standing on sidewalk, Uptown New Orleans, 1992. Supermodels and high fashion [ edit ] Throughout the 1990s, supermodels (/wiki/Supermodel) dominated the fashion industry. [15] (#cite_note-15) The top models of the 1990s were Nadja Auermann (/wiki/Nadja_Auermann) , Tyra Banks (/wiki/Tyra_Banks) , Christie Brinkley (/wiki/Christie_Brinkley) , Carla Bruni (/wiki/Carla_Bruni) , Naomi Campbell (/wiki/Naomi_Campbell) , Helena Christensen (/wiki/Helena_Christensen) , Cindy Crawford (/wiki/Cindy_Crawford) , Karen Elson (/wiki/Karen_Elson) , Linda Evangelista (/wiki/Linda_Evangelista) , Yasmeen Ghauri (/wiki/Yasmeen_Ghauri) , Bridget Hall (/wiki/Bridget_Hall) , Shalom Harlow (/wiki/Shalom_Harlow) , Eva Herzigova (/wiki/Eva_Herzigova) , Michele Hicks (/wiki/Michele_Hicks) , Kirsty Hume (/wiki/Kirsty_Hume) , Milla Jovovich (/wiki/Milla_Jovovich) , Yasmin Le Bon (/wiki/Yasmin_Le_Bon) , Audrey Marnay (/wiki/Audrey_Marnay) , Kristen McMenamy (/wiki/Kristen_McMenamy) , Kate Moss (/wiki/Kate_Moss) , Karen Mulder (/wiki/Karen_Mulder) , Carolyn Murphy (/wiki/Carolyn_Murphy) , Nadège (/wiki/Nad%C3%A8ge_du_Bospertus) , Erin O'Connor (/wiki/Erin_O%27Connor) , Kirsten Owen (/wiki/Kirsten_Owen) , Tatjana Patitz (/wiki/Tatjana_Patitz) , Maggie Rizer (/wiki/Maggie_Rizer) , Claudia Schiffer (/wiki/Claudia_Schiffer) , Stephanie Seymour (/wiki/Stephanie_Seymour) , Tatiana Sorokko (/wiki/Tatiana_Sorokko) , Stella Tennant (/wiki/Stella_Tennant) , Christy Turlington (/wiki/Christy_Turlington) , Amber Valletta (/wiki/Amber_Valletta) , Guinevere Van Seenus (/wiki/Guinevere_Van_Seenus) , Alek Wek (/wiki/Alek_Wek) , and Amy Wesson (/wiki/Amy_Wesson) . [16] (#cite_note-16) One of the most influential group of models during the early 1990s was the Big Five, whose fame and social power allegedly surpassed that of many movie stars. The Big Five consisted of supermodels Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Christy Turlington, Linda Evangelista and Tatjana Patitz. Whether booked as individuals or as an elite group, each supermodel gained worldwide success and had great influence on the fashion industry. Naomi Campbell was the first black woman to grace the cover of French Vogue , Time , and American Vogue' s September issue. Cindy Crawford was the highest paid model on the planet in 1995 per Forbes. Christy Turlington was known for being a reliable model who garnered over 500 covers during her career and most notably, signed a contract with Maybelline (/wiki/Maybelline) for an annual fee of $800,000 for twelve days' work. Linda Evangelista was known as the industry's "chameleon" for her ability to suit a multitude of styles. Evangelista also infamously coined the phrase, "We don't wake up for less than $10,000 a day." Tatjana Patitz, the last of the Big Five, continues to be regarded as one of the "original supermodels" and even after her retirement, she remains in demand periodically by such designer houses as Jean-Paul Gaultier (/wiki/Jean-Paul_Gaultier) and Chanel. Later in the decade, Tatjana was replaced in the Big Five by supermodel Claudia Schiffer, who is one of the most successful supermodels in the world, holding the record for the most magazine covers according to The Guinness Book of World Records (/wiki/The_Guinness_Book_of_World_Records) . [ citation needed ] Later in the decade, the rise of Kate Moss (/wiki/Kate_Moss) shifted the world of fashion when her entrance onto the scene turned the Big Five into the Big Six. Kate Moss became one of the Nineties' biggest phenomena when, at 14 years of age, she was discovered at JFK Airport (/wiki/JFK_Airport) . Her waif-like figure set a new fashion standard that became known as " heroin chic (/wiki/Heroin_chic) ". This was a pale and ghostly look that called for a stick-thin stature and size zero body. Due to Kate's extremely skinny frame, she was often criticized for allegedly promoting eating disorders (/wiki/Eating_disorder) as apparently evidenced by her shots for Calvin Klein (/wiki/Calvin_Klein) . Reportedly, posters of Kate Moss were often defaced with graffiti that read "feed me". [17] (#cite_note-17) For the 1994 Autumn/Winter issue of Arena Homme + (/wiki/Arena_Homme_%2B) , a spin-off of the bi-monthly Arena (magazine) (/wiki/Arena_(magazine)) , master fashion photographer Albert Watson (/wiki/Albert_Watson_(photographer)) photographed a new generation of top male models of the era, including Tyson Beckford (/wiki/Tyson_Beckford) , Tim Boyce (/wiki/Tim_Boyce) and Marcus Schenkenberg (/wiki/Marcus_Schenkenberg) for the two-page fold-out cover proclaiming "High Five the New Supermodel Army - Malcom Tim, Marcus, In 1995 Gregg and Larry photographed by Albert Watson". [18] (#cite_note-18) Neon colors [ edit ] In the US, USSR (/wiki/Soviet_fashion) , [19] (#cite_note-90s_Russian_fashion-19) South Africa (/wiki/African_fashion) , [20] (#cite_note-20) Egypt, and Japan popular trends included bold geometric-print clothing in electric blue (/wiki/Electric_blue_(color)) , orange, fluorescent pink, purple, turquoise [21] (#cite_note-21) and the acid green exercise wear [22] (#cite_note-:1-22) popularized by Lisa Lopes (/wiki/Lisa_Lopes) [23] (#cite_note-23) of TLC (/wiki/TLC_(group)) . Typical patterns included triangles, zigzag (/wiki/Zigzag) lightning bolts, diamonds, lozenges, rectangles, overlapping free-form shapes, simulated explosions inspired by comic book illustrations or pop art (/wiki/Pop_art) , intricate grids, [24] (#cite_note-24) and clusters of thin parallel lines in contrasting colors (for example, white, black and yellow on a cyan background). Many women wore denim button-down Western shirts (/wiki/Western_shirt) , colored jeans (/wiki/Jeans) in medium and dark green, red, and purple, metallic Spandex (/wiki/Spandex) leggings, halterneck crop tops (/wiki/Crop_top) , drainpipe jeans (/wiki/Drainpipe_jeans) , colored tights, bike shorts, black leather jackets (/wiki/Leather_jacket) with shoulder pads, high waisted ankle length jeans (aka mom jeans) and pants both styled plain or pleated, baby-doll dresses over bike shorts or capri leggings, and skater dresses. Neon colored tops and leg warmers (/wiki/Leg_warmers) were popular, together with leopard print skirts [25] (#cite_note-25) shiny satin or rayon blouses, embroidered jeans covered in rhinestones, [19] (#cite_note-90s_Russian_fashion-19) and black or white shirts, leggings and jackets printed with abstract red, blue, yellow and green geometric patterns. In America, popular accessories included court shoes (/wiki/Court_shoes) , cowboy boots (/wiki/Cowboy_boot) , headscarves (/wiki/Headscarves) , slouch socks (/wiki/Slouch_socks) , Keds (/wiki/Keds) , ballet flats, and the penny loafers (/wiki/Penny_loafers) or boat shoes (/wiki/Boat_shoes) associated with the preppy (/wiki/Preppy) look. Leggings and exercise-wear [ edit ] From 1991 on, sports bras (/wiki/Sports_bra) , hoodies (/wiki/Hoodies) , shortalls (/wiki/Overalls) , leotards (/wiki/Leotards) and bodysuits (/wiki/Bodysuit) worn as tops with jeans, a sweatshirt over a turtleneck with jeans rolled up to show off their slouch socks (/wiki/Slouch_socks) were popular with young girls, teens, college girls, and young women in the UK and Europe. A common outfit was to wear a skirt, dress shorts, babydoll (/wiki/Babydoll) or minidress (/wiki/Minidress) with black opaque tights (/wiki/Tights) . It was not uncommon to see mothers dressed right along with their daughters in white slouch socks worn over black leggings (/wiki/Leggings) or sweatpants, an oversized T-shirt, sweater or sweatshirt worn over a turtleneck, and Keds, Converse (/wiki/Converse_(shoe_company)) All Stars, or unisex aerobic, basketball or Nike (/wiki/Nike,_Inc.) Air or gold Reebok (/wiki/Reebok) hi-top running shoes. [22] (#cite_note-:1-22) A dressed up leggings outfit was leggings with an oversized v-neck sweater over a turtleneck, slouch socks, Keds or Sperry Top-Sider (/wiki/Sperry_Top-Sider) boat shoes, and bangs (/wiki/Bangs_(hair)) with a headband (/wiki/Headband) or ponytail (/wiki/Ponytail) and scrunchie (/wiki/Scrunchie) . Leggings and stirrup pants worn over pantyhose or tights with a pair of flats (/wiki/Ballet_flat) and oversized tops were also common. Leggings and slouch socks with oversized tops and casual sneakers especially Keds continued to be worn as lounge wear and everyday comfortable and fashionable casual wear until the late 1990s. In Israel (/wiki/Israeli_fashion) , Britain and the US, Gottex (/wiki/Gottex) swimsuits (/wiki/Swimsuit) became popular among female celebrities Diana, Princess of Wales (/wiki/Diana,_Princess_of_Wales) , Brooke Shields (/wiki/Brooke_Shields) , and Elizabeth Taylor (/wiki/Elizabeth_Taylor) . [26] (#cite_note-26) Grunge [ edit ] In mid-1992, grunge fashion (/wiki/Grunge_fashion) broke into the mainstream for both sexes. For younger American, Australian and Latina women, it consisted of flannel shirts, ripped jeans, hip hugger bell bottoms, wide leg jeans, shortalls (/wiki/Overalls) , Doc Martens (/wiki/Doc_Martens) , combat boots, band t-shirts (/wiki/T-shirt) , small fitted sweaters (/wiki/Sweater) , cap sleeved shirts, long and droopy skirts, ripped tights, Birkenstocks (/wiki/Birkenstocks) , hiking boots, [27] (#cite_note-1990sTrends-27) [28] (#cite_note-28) [29] (#cite_note-29) and eco-friendly (/wiki/Environmentally_friendly) clothing made from recycled textiles or fair trade (/wiki/Fair_trade) organic cotton. [30] (#cite_note-30) A prominent example of the popularity of grunge fashion is the teen drama television series " My So Called Life (/wiki/My_So_Called_Life) ". [31] (#cite_note-31) Grunge fashion peaked in late 1993 and early 1994. [27] (#cite_note-1990sTrends-27) [32] (#cite_note-1994InReview-32) [33] (#cite_note-HitsNMisses94-33) Mid 1990s (1993–1996) [ edit ] Glamour wear [ edit ] Slip dresses (/wiki/Slip_dress) first became widely worn in the mid-1990s, as part of the underwear-as-outerwear (/wiki/Underwear-as-outerwear) trend. ( Jane Leeves (/wiki/Jane_Leeves) , 1995 ) In 1994, grunge clothing rapidly declined as fashion became more feminine and form-fitting. Young women in the UK and America wore tailored skirt and trouser suits, short skirts and dresses (/wiki/Miniskirt) , baby doll dresses, skater dresses, animal prints, hot pants (/wiki/Hot_pants) , [34] (#cite_note-1995FashionReview-34) slim pants (/wiki/Skinny_jeans) , low waisted bell bottoms, wide leg jeans and pants, long (/wiki/Maxi_dress) and short skirts (/wiki/Miniskirt) , and high heels. [35] (#cite_note-1995FashionTrends-35) High-shine fabrics, such as satin (/wiki/Satin) , metallics (/wiki/Metallic_color) , sequins (/wiki/Sequin) , microfiber (/wiki/Microfiber) , vinyl (/wiki/PVC_clothing) , and silk (/wiki/Silk) became very prominent on both clubwear (/wiki/Clubwear) and work wear (/wiki/Work_wear) . [27] (#cite_note-1990sTrends-27) [32] (#cite_note-1994InReview-32) [33] (#cite_note-HitsNMisses94-33) The most common look among young women that year was the short black slip dress (/wiki/Slip_dress) worn over a tight, undersized white T-shirt. [32] (#cite_note-1994InReview-32) Loungewear generally consisted of black Lycra (/wiki/Lycra) leggings (/wiki/Leggings) or bike shorts, [36] (#cite_note-1996FashionReview-36) large T-shirts (/wiki/T-shirt) , oversized sweatshirts (/wiki/Sweatshirt) , turtlenecks (/wiki/Turtleneck) , and baggy sweaters (/wiki/Sweater) , slouch socks, Keds, white Sperry sneakers or athletic sneakers and hair in bangs and a ponytail with a scrunchie while at home running errands, at kids sporting events or other clubs and activities or relaxing during the weekends. [27] (#cite_note-1990sTrends-27) A very popular look among young women from 1994 to 1995 [33] (#cite_note-HitsNMisses94-33) was the "sexy school girl" look. This trend consisted of tartan (/wiki/Tartan) minikilts (/wiki/Miniskirt) , sometimes with bike shorts underneath, undersized sweaters, short slip dresses, baby doll tees (/wiki/Crop_top) , knee highs (/wiki/Knee_highs) , pulled all the way up or rolled or folded at the top, thigh highs (/wiki/Hold-ups) , miniature backpacks, overalls (/wiki/Overalls) , tights (/wiki/Tights) , pantyhose (/wiki/Pantyhose) , shirts and dresses with peter pan style collars and chunky shoes, mary janes, ballet flats (/wiki/Ballet_flat) , or boat shoes. Hair was down parted in the middle, or worn short and stacked in the back (stacked bob). [33] (#cite_note-HitsNMisses94-33) [37] (#cite_note-Mid90sBackToSchool-37) The sexy school girl look was prominently portrayed in films with female leads such as Clueless (/wiki/Clueless_(film)) , [38] (#cite_note-38) [39] (#cite_note-39) Empire Records (/wiki/Empire_Records) , [40] (#cite_note-40) and The Craft (/wiki/The_Craft_(film)) . [41] (#cite_note-41) Among women over 30, 1950s ladylike fashions made a comeback in the United States. This included pencil skirts (/wiki/Pencil_skirt) , cardigans (/wiki/Cardigan_(sweater)) , girdles (/wiki/Girdle) , petticoats (/wiki/Petticoat) , satin or lace Wonderbra (/wiki/Wonderbra) lingerie, and fitted suits. [42] (#cite_note-90sAmerica50sFantasy-42) Popular accessories that went hand-in-hand with this revival included brooches (/wiki/Brooch) , white gloves, sheer stockings (/wiki/Stocking) , diamonds (/wiki/Diamond) , sequins, and red lipstick. [42] (#cite_note-90sAmerica50sFantasy-42) For more casual occasions, women opted for lean capri pants (/wiki/Capri_pants) , [35] (#cite_note-1995FashionTrends-35) polka dot (/wiki/Polka_dot) blouses, belted trench coats (/wiki/Trench_coat) , 1940s style sandals, white canvas shoes especially Keds, leggings with oversized tops, slouch socks with leggings, stirrup pants (/wiki/Stirrup_pants) worn over tights or pantyhose with flats and an oversized top, rolled jeans or khakis or shorts or shortalls, shortalls (/wiki/Overalls) , bell bottoms and wide leg jeans, sweaters, sweatshirts, tunic tops, shorts suit with dress shorts with tights underneath, ballet flats (/wiki/Ballet_flats) and a top and jacket, above the knee dresses sometimes worn with bike shorts underneath [34] (#cite_note-1995FashionReview-34) [43] (#cite_note-43) Popular shoes and accessories during the mid-1990s in Europe and North America included loafers (/wiki/Loafer) , Mary Janes (/wiki/Mary_Janes) , [33] (#cite_note-HitsNMisses94-33) suede (/wiki/Suede) sneakers, [32] (#cite_note-1994InReview-32) mules (/wiki/Mule_(shoe)) , clogs (/wiki/Clog) , [44] (#cite_note-44) knee high boots (/wiki/Knee_high_boots) , [36] (#cite_note-1996FashionReview-36) jelly shoes (/wiki/Jelly_shoe) , go-go boots (/wiki/Go-go_boot) , [34] (#cite_note-1995FashionReview-34) [37] (#cite_note-Mid90sBackToSchool-37) black court shoes (/wiki/Court_shoe) , Keds (/wiki/Keds) , ballet flats (/wiki/Ballet_flat) , sperrys and other boat shoes, silver jewelry, dainty earrings and necklaces, [33] (#cite_note-HitsNMisses94-33) conch shell (/wiki/Conch_shell) necklaces, berets (/wiki/Beret) , straw hats (/wiki/Straw_hat) , floppy hats, gold jewelry, and hipster belts. [34] (#cite_note-1995FashionReview-34) Navel piercings (/wiki/Navel_piercings) had started to gain popularity around this time. Work wear [ edit ] For much of the early and mid 1990s, power dressing (/wiki/Power_dressing) was the norm for women in the workplace: [45] (#cite_note-45) navy blue, grey or pastel colored skirt suits with shoulder pads (/wiki/Shoulder_pad_(fashion)) , [46] (#cite_note-46) pussy bow (/wiki/Pussy_bow) blouses, silk scarves, pointed shoes, stretchy miniskirts (/wiki/Miniskirt) , [47] (#cite_note-47) polka dot (/wiki/Polka_dot) blouses, and brightly colored short dresses worn with a dark brocade (/wiki/Brocade) blazer, bare legs (/wiki/Bare_legs) and metallic open toed shoes. Other 1980s fashions (/wiki/1980s_fashion) such as chunky jewelry, gold hoop earrings (/wiki/Hoop_earrings) with horn of life pendants, smoky eye make-up, hairspray, Alice bands (/wiki/Alice_band) , [48] (#cite_note-48) and brightly painted nails remained common. Shorts suits were also very popular. They consisted of a regular suit top and jacket and dress shorts in short or bermuda length with tights underneath worn with ballet flats (/wiki/Ballet_flats) . Also seen were stirrup pants worn over tights or pantyhose with flats and an oversized top. By 1996, professional women in Britain, Australia and America wore more relaxed styles and muted colors, [49] (#cite_note-49) such as black floral print dresses, plain kaftan (/wiki/Kaftan) style blouses, Mary Janes (/wiki/Mary_Jane_(shoe)) , maxi skirts, knee length dresses, boots, smart jeans, big floppy hats, culottes (/wiki/Culottes) , capri pants (/wiki/Capri_pants) and chunky platform shoes (/wiki/Platform_shoes) . Trouser suits (/wiki/Trouser_suit) began to replace skirts, [50] (#cite_note-50) black or white tights and nude pantyhose (/wiki/Pantyhose) made a comeback. [51] (#cite_note-51) Late 1990s (1997–1999) [ edit ] Asian influences [ edit ] Red and cream Indian woman's saree, late 1990s Beginning in 1997 and continuing into the mid-2000s, [52] (#cite_note-52) Southeast Asian and Indian fashion (/wiki/Indian_fashion) began to influence and gain greater recognition from the global media [53] (#cite_note-53) due to the establishment of the Fashion Design Council of India (/wiki/Fashion_Design_Council_of_India) , and the hosting of India Fashion Week (/wiki/India_Fashion_Week) in Delhi. [54] (#cite_note-54) Inspired by Bollywood cinema (/wiki/Bollywood_cinema) and a resurgence of interest in 1970s fashion (/wiki/1970s_fashion) , designers in India adapted and repurposed the saree (/wiki/Saree) , churidar (/wiki/Churidar) and kurta (/wiki/Kurta) into the Anarkali ballgown (/wiki/Ballgown) from the early 1990s onwards. By the late 1990s, kurta (/wiki/Kurta) tunics (/wiki/Tunic) were turned into short dresses, and Manish Arora (/wiki/Manish_Arora) designed garish Hindu "God printed T-shirts" [55] (#cite_note-55) for both locals and global tourists. British, Asian and American designers also incorporated ethnic chic (/wiki/Ethnic_chic) fabrics, such as khadi (/wiki/Khadi) , paisley (/wiki/Paisley_(design)) , silk or Indonesian Batik (/wiki/Batik) [56] (#cite_note-56) into Western-inspired clothing patterns such as shirts and blouses featuring traditional embroidery. This type of clothing was worn not only by the immigrant Bangladeshi, Pakistani and Indian diaspora (/wiki/Indian_diaspora) in Britain, but also by many non-Indian women. [57] (#cite_note-57) 1970s revival [ edit ] From 1997 onwards, many British and American designers started to take cues from the disco fashion (/wiki/Disco_fashion) of the mid–late 1970s (/wiki/1970s_fashion) . Particularly common were black or dark red pleather (/wiki/Pleather) pants, [58] (#cite_note-90sFashionEra-58) animal print clothing, halter tops, [59] (#cite_note-59) metallic clothing, [60] (#cite_note-60) crop tops (/wiki/Crop_top) , tube tops (/wiki/Tube_top) , maxi coats, maxi skirts (/wiki/Maxi_skirt) , knee boots sometimes with knee socks slouch at the top, and boot-cut dress pants (/wiki/Bell_bottoms) . [36] (#cite_note-1996FashionReview-36) By 2001, popular mainstream trends included tight shirts, bell bottoms (/wiki/Bell_bottoms) , platform shoes (/wiki/Platform_shoes) , [27] (#cite_note-1990sTrends-27) [61] (#cite_note-61) fleeces (/wiki/Polar_fleece) , cropped (/wiki/Crop_top) tank tops (/wiki/Sleeveless_shirt) , Union jack (/wiki/Union_jack) motifs inspired by the Cool Britannia (/wiki/Cool_Britannia) movement, [62] (#cite_note-62) and military inspired clothing, such as flak jackets (/wiki/Flak_jacket) with camouflage patterns. [63] (#cite_note-90sFashionEra2-63) [64] (#cite_note-1997Garments-64) In the late 1990s, bright colors began to make a comeback in mainstream fashion, as a backlash against the darker tones associated with the grunge (/wiki/Grunge) and skater subculture (/wiki/Skater_subculture) . [65] (#cite_note-FashionIn1997-65) [66] (#cite_note-ColorReturns-66) Popular colors included plum (/wiki/Plum_(color)) , chocolate (/wiki/Chocolate_(color)) , and navy (/wiki/Navy_(color)) , all of which replaced black, [36] (#cite_note-1996FashionReview-36) which had become ubiquitous. [63] (#cite_note-90sFashionEra2-63) Other fashion trends popular from 1997 to 1999 included glamour wear, high-waisted miniskirts (/wiki/Miniskirt) , plastic chokers (/wiki/Choker) , knee socks (/wiki/Knee_socks) associated with the school girl look, [67] (#cite_note-67) tight pants (/wiki/Tight_pants) , slip dresses (/wiki/Slip_dress) , turtle-neck (/wiki/Turtle-neck) sweaters (/wiki/Sweaters) , conservative chic, capri pants (/wiki/Capri_pants) , high-waisted trousers (/wiki/Trousers) , and cardigans. More formal styles intended for the workplace or special occasions (such as a cocktail party (/wiki/Cocktail_party) ) included silk (/wiki/Silk) blouses (/wiki/Blouse) in neutral colors or animal prints, [64] (#cite_note-1997Garments-64) tailored pantsuits (/wiki/Pantsuit) and skirt suits inspired by the 1980s, [65] (#cite_note-FashionIn1997-65) collarless coats, [68] (#cite_note-FashionIn1999-68) and the little black dress (/wiki/Little_black_dress) , with or without subtle embroidery. [27] (#cite_note-1990sTrends-27) Casual chic [ edit ] Model wearing a midriff shirt, a silver necklace, low ponytail and straight-leg leggings, 1999. From 1998 to 2001, the unisex casual chic (/wiki/Casual_chic) look gained mainstream appeal, with dark stonewash (/wiki/Stonewash) jeans, shortalls (/wiki/Shortalls) , spaghetti strap crop tops (/wiki/Crop_top) , tracksuits (/wiki/Tracksuits) , sweatpants (/wiki/Sweatpants) , and other athletic clothing. Denim's popularity was at an all-time high in Europe, with designer denim jackets and matching jeans rocketing in prices. Other common, more affordable brands included Mudd (/wiki/Mudd) , JNCO (/wiki/JNCO) , and Evisu, a Japanese denim brand which launched in the 1980s. [68] (#cite_note-FashionIn1999-68) The most popular trainers were white or black and manufactured by Adidas (/wiki/Adidas) , Skechers (/wiki/Skechers) , and Nike (/wiki/Nike,_Inc.) . Running shoes with built in air pumps were popular among both sexes. Leather had largely replaced canvas, and soles were made of foam rather than solid rubber. In the US and Britain, popular accessories included large hoop earrings (/wiki/Hoop_earring) , shoes with rounded toes, flip flops (/wiki/Flip_flops) , jelly shoes (/wiki/Jelly_shoe) , rhinestone (/wiki/Rhinestone) -encrusted hip belts, embellished slippers, beaded wristbands and lariats, [68] (#cite_note-FashionIn1999-68) Alice bands, pashminas (/wiki/Pashmina) , [63] (#cite_note-90sFashionEra2-63) fascinators (/wiki/Fascinator) , gold jewelry, [27] (#cite_note-1990sTrends-27) moccasin (/wiki/Moccasin) loafers (/wiki/Loafers) , [68] (#cite_note-FashionIn1999-68) running shoes (/wiki/Running_shoe) , jelly bracelets (/wiki/Gel_bracelet) , [69] (#cite_note-SexBracelets-69) bandanas, and novelty Wellington boots (/wiki/Wellington_boots) with leopard print or zebra stripe patterns. Men's fashion [ edit ] Early 1990s (1990–1992) [ edit ] Casual clothing [ edit ] Continuing on from the late 1980s, many young men in the US, UK and Europe wore tapered and cuffed high waisted jeans (/wiki/High_waisted_jeans) or pants styled plain or pleated with matching denim jackets, Champion brand (/wiki/Champion_(sportswear)) , Stone Island (/wiki/Stone_Island) or Ralph Lauren (/wiki/Ralph_Lauren) sweatshirts, polo shirts (/wiki/Polo_shirt) with contrasting collars, [70] (#cite_note-70) short Harrington jackets (/wiki/Harrington_jacket) , grey Tommy Hilfiger (/wiki/Tommy_Hilfiger) sweaters with prominent logos, [71] (#cite_note-71) oversized Guess (clothing) (/wiki/Guess_(clothing)) denim (/wiki/Denim) shirts, brightly colored windcheaters (/wiki/Windcheater) especially in yellow or green, Hush Puppies (/wiki/Hush_Puppies) shoes, [72] (#cite_note-72) Sperrys (/wiki/Sperry_Top-Sider) boat shoes, white Sperrys sneakers, V neck sweaters (/wiki/Sweater) , soccer (/wiki/Soccer) shorts, white athletic socks (/wiki/Athletic_sock) worn with black or brown loafers (/wiki/Loafer) , triple striped tube socks usually folded over at the top, slouch socks, pastel colored three button sportcoats (/wiki/Sportcoat) , graphic print T-shirts, [73] (#cite_note-73) tracksuit (/wiki/Tracksuit) tops with a vertical contrasting stripe down the sleeve, sweatpants (/wiki/Sweatpants) , bomber jackets (/wiki/Bomber_jacket) , [74] (#cite_note-74) pale denim (/wiki/Pale_denim) drainpipe jeans (/wiki/Drainpipe_jeans) [75] (#cite_note-75) as worn by Ewan McGregor (/wiki/Ewan_McGregor) in Trainspotting (/wiki/Trainspotting_(film)) , [76] (#cite_note-76) shiny red or blue rayon (/wiki/Rayon) monkey jackets, grey or tan leather jackets (/wiki/Leather_jacket) with shoulder pads (/wiki/Shoulder_pad_(fashion)) , and wool baseball jackets (/wiki/Baseball_jacket) with contrasting sleeves. Short shorts were popular in the early years of the decade, [77] (#cite_note-77) but were replaced with looser and baggier basketball shorts (/wiki/Basketball_shorts) in 1993 when hip-hop fashion (/wiki/Hip-hop_fashion) went mainstream. Teva sandals (/wiki/Teva_sandals) were popular in 1993, its trend even endured to early 2000s. Grunge look [ edit ] Jonathan Brandis (/wiki/Jonathan_Brandis) in a Grunge (/wiki/Grunge) -style flannel shirt and curtained hair (/wiki/Curtained_hair) in 1993 From 1991 until 1996, flannel (/wiki/Flannel) shirts became very popular in the US and Australia, due to their use among the skater subculture (/wiki/Skater_subculture) and grunge (/wiki/Grunge) bands including Nirvana (/wiki/Nirvana_(band)) or Mudhoney (/wiki/Mudhoney) . [78] (#cite_note-78) [79] (#cite_note-79) Unlike the fitted Western shirts (/wiki/Western_shirt) of the 1970s which fastened with pearl snaps, the flannel shirts (/wiki/Flannel_shirt) of the 1990s were padded and loose-fitting for optimum warmth. [80] (#cite_note-80) Men also wore acid wash (/wiki/Stone_washing) jeans, patterned wool sweaters (/wiki/Sweater) with turtlenecks (/wiki/Turtlenecks) underneath, black Schott Perfecto (/wiki/Schott_Perfecto) leather jackets (/wiki/Leather_jacket) , sheepskin (/wiki/Sheepskin) coats, olive green (/wiki/Olive_green) anoraks (/wiki/Anorak) , corduroy (/wiki/Corduroy) sportcoats (/wiki/Sportcoat) , grey sweatpants (/wiki/Sweatpants) and fingerless gloves (/wiki/Fingerless_glove) . In the US, popular accessories included Converse All Stars (/wiki/Chuck_Taylor_All-Stars) , hi-top Nike's (/wiki/Nike,_Inc.) , trapper hats (/wiki/Trapper_hat) , bucket hats, baseball caps (/wiki/Baseball_caps) , baggy, graphic T-shirts (/wiki/T-shirts) , oversized sweatshirts (/wiki/Sweatshirts) , tuques (/wiki/Tuque) , combat boots (/wiki/Combat_boot) , Dr. Martens (/wiki/Dr._Martens) , and Aviator sunglasses (/wiki/Ray-Ban_Aviator) . [81] (#cite_note-81) Mid 1990s (1993–1996) [ edit ] Cool Britannia and 1970s revival [ edit ] Around 1995/1996, 1960s mod (/wiki/Mod_(subculture)) clothing and longer hair were popular in Britain, Canada, and the US due to the success of Britpop (/wiki/Britpop) . Men wore Aloha shirts (/wiki/Aloha_shirt) , [82] (#cite_note-82) brown leather jackets, velvet (/wiki/Velvet) blazers (/wiki/Blazer) , paisley (/wiki/Paisley_(design)) shirts, throwback (/wiki/Throwback_style) pullover baseball jerseys (/wiki/Baseball_jersey) , and graphic-print T-shirts (often featuring dragons (/wiki/Dragon) , athletic logos or numbers). Real fur went out of fashion and fake fur became the norm. [35] (#cite_note-1995FashionTrends-35) The 1970s became a dominant theme for inspiration on men's apparel in 1996. Among these clothing styles were coats with fur- or faux fur-trimmings, jackets with bold shoulders and wide lapels, and boot-cut slacks. [36] (#cite_note-1996FashionReview-36) This continued into the 2000s (decade). Casual clothes such as trousers, sweaters, and denim jackets were worn with shirts made of satin (/wiki/Satin) , PVC (/wiki/PVC) , and terry cloth. Both pastel colors (/wiki/Pastel_color) and bold patterns were popular and successfully replaced black. [34] (#cite_note-1995FashionReview-34) Desirable accessories during the mid-1990s included loafers (/wiki/Loafers) , desert boots (/wiki/Desert_boots) , chelsea boots (/wiki/Chelsea_boots) , gold jewellery, boat shoes (/wiki/Boat_shoes) , chunky digital watches (/wiki/Digital_watch) , solid colored ties, shoulder bags, and black/neon colored high-top sneakers replaced combat boots. [35] (#cite_note-1995FashionTrends-35) Trio in 1995 wearing neutral-colored tops and relaxed-fit, slim-leg pants and jeans. Modern preppy [ edit ] Preppy (/wiki/Preppy) clothing was popular in the US, [83] (#cite_note-wallace-83) where wealthy young men wore khaki slacks (/wiki/Trousers) , canvas [84] (#cite_note-colman-84) boat shoes (/wiki/Boat_shoes) , and navy blue blazers (/wiki/Blazer) with breast-pocket monogram (/wiki/Monogram) or gold buttons bearing a family crest (/wiki/Family_crest) . [84] (#cite_note-colman-84) In general, 1990s preppy was more casual than the almost dandified (/wiki/Dandy) look of the 1980s as young men abandoned ascots (/wiki/Ascot_tie) and Oxford shoes (/wiki/Oxford_shoe) in favor of Nantucket Reds (/wiki/Nantucket_Reds) , nautical-striped T-shirts, boat shoes i.e. Sperrys (/wiki/Sperry_Top-Sider) , loafers (/wiki/Loafers) , white style casual sneakers, slouch socks, and madras cloth (/wiki/Madras_cloth) or gingham (/wiki/Gingham) short-sleeved shirts. [85] (#cite_note-85) Desirable brands included Gap (/wiki/Gap_Inc.) , Old Navy (/wiki/Old_Navy) and Abercrombie & Fitch (/wiki/Abercrombie_%26_Fitch) . Hip-Hop [ edit ] In Europe and North America, hip-hop fashion (/wiki/Hip-hop_fashion) went mainstream in 1992, with oversized baseball jackets (/wiki/Baseball_jacket) , baggy jeans (/wiki/Baggy_jeans) , bomber jackets (/wiki/Bomber_jacket) , Baja Jackets (/wiki/Baja_Jacket) , and tracksuits (/wiki/Tracksuits) popular among young men as casual wear. [86] (#cite_note-86) Simultaneously, industrial and military styles crept into mainstream fashion, with machinery pieces becoming accessories. [27] (#cite_note-1990sTrends-27) Baseball caps started being worn forwards again. [35] (#cite_note-1995FashionTrends-35) The eight-ball jacket (/wiki/Eight-ball_jacket) created by designer Michael Hoban (/wiki/Michael_Hoban_(designer)) became popular in hip-hop fashion, particularly the East Coast hip hop (/wiki/East_Coast_hip_hop) scene of New York City. The style is characterized by bright color-blocking (/wiki/Color-blocking) and large black and white decals on the back and sleeves, made to look like the eight ball (/wiki/Glossary_of_cue_sports_terms#8_ball) used in some cue sports (/wiki/Cue_sports) . [87] (#cite_note-:02-87) Southern hip hop (/wiki/Southern_hip_hop) provided a platform for fashion designers (/wiki/Fashion_designers) and musical artists to collaborate forming an influential subculture (/wiki/Subculture) of anti fashion (/wiki/Anti_fashion) and alternative fashion (/wiki/Alternative_fashion) designs, especially the popular recycled clothing worn by Arrested Development (/wiki/Arrested_Development_(group)) and Goodie Mob (/wiki/Goodie_Mob) . Due to its association with rappers, sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) became acceptable to wear in public throughout the mid to late 1990s, especially oversized T-shirts, baseball caps (/wiki/Baseball_cap) and sweaters bearing the New York Yankees (/wiki/New_York_Yankees) logo, tennis shoes, hoodies (/wiki/Hoodies) , jean shorts, [27] (#cite_note-1990sTrends-27) khaki cargo pants (/wiki/Cargo_pants) , [68] (#cite_note-FashionIn1999-68) baggy basketball shorts (/wiki/Basketball_shorts) , chinos (/wiki/Chinos) , [68] (#cite_note-FashionIn1999-68) tracksuits (/wiki/Tracksuit) and black bomber jackets (/wiki/Bomber_jacket) with orange linings. From 1995 onwards, men wore overalls, straight leg jeans, plaid pants, [27] (#cite_note-1990sTrends-27) flat-front chinos, khaki pants, [35] (#cite_note-1995FashionTrends-35) and camouflage pants worn ironically by anti-war protesters. [27] (#cite_note-1990sTrends-27) In the late 1990s ski goggles became a popular accessory in hip hop fashion. [88] (#cite_note-88) Late 1990s (1997–1999) [ edit ] African fashion [ edit ] During the mid and late 1990s, [89] (#cite_note-89) the silk Madiba shirt (/wiki/Madiba_shirt) became popular in South Africa and the wider global community. [90] (#cite_note-90) From 1996 to 1998, traditional African clothing (/wiki/African_clothing) began to face serious competition [91] (#cite_note-91) from cheap imported mitumba clothing (/wiki/Mitumba_clothing) [92] (#cite_note-92) [93] (#cite_note-93) as a consequence of the Kenyan and Tanzanian government's easing of trade restrictions during the early to mid 1990s. [94] (#cite_note-94) By the end of the decade, the safari jacket (/wiki/Safari_jacket) associated with kleptocrat (/wiki/Kleptocrat) dictator Mobutu Sese Seko (/wiki/Mobutu_Sese_Seko) of the Democratic Republic of the Congo (/wiki/Democratic_Republic_of_the_Congo) and the previous South African Apartheid (/wiki/Apartheid) regime had declined in popularity, and was replaced as formal wear by the dashiki suit (/wiki/Dashiki_suit) . [95] (#cite_note-95) Variants in green, yellow and black were worn as an alternative to the business suit (/wiki/Business_suit) by many African-Americans [96] (#cite_note-96) for Kwanzaa (/wiki/Kwanzaa) . [97] (#cite_note-97) African art began to influence and gain greater recognition on account of the Festival de la Mode Africaine (FIMA). These influences started to make their way into fashion shows all over, for reference New York fashion week (/wiki/New_York_fashion_week) , 1998. In this show models were wearing sheath-like dresses made of loosely knitted yarn and denim jackets (/wiki/Denim_jackets) with large fake fur collars. Loose threads dangled from some of the garment's seams and other garments had the labels sewn on the outside of the collars. [98] (#cite_note-98) Streetwear [ edit ] Typical late 1990s fashions, 1997. By the late 1990s, the grunge look became unfashionable, and there was a revival of interest in streetwear clothing, with name brand designers such as Calvin Klein (/wiki/Calvin_Klein) and Ralph Lauren (/wiki/Ralph_Lauren) making a comeback. [27] (#cite_note-1990sTrends-27) In Europe, jeans were more popular than ever before. [68] (#cite_note-FashionIn1999-68) From 1997 to 1998 brighter colors came into style, including plum (/wiki/Plum_(color)) , charcoal (/wiki/Charcoal_(color)) , olive (/wiki/Olive_(color)) , wine (/wiki/Wine_(color)) , [65] (#cite_note-FashionIn1997-65) [99] (#cite_note-99) and shades such as "camellia rose", "blazing orange", "whisper pink", "hot coral", and a light-grayish blue called "wind chime". [66] (#cite_note-ColorReturns-66) Much of men's fashion in 1997 was inspired by the 1996 film Swingers (/wiki/Swingers_(1996_film)) , [65] (#cite_note-FashionIn1997-65) leading to the popularization of the "dressy casual" look. Such apparel included blazers, black or red leather jackets and bowling shirts (/wiki/Bowling_shirt) in either a variety of prints or a solid color, and loose-fitting flat-front or pleated khaki chinos or jeans. Around this time it became fashionable to leave shirts untucked. Business wear [ edit ] In Europe, single-breasted three and four button notch lapel (/wiki/Notch_lapel) suits in grey or navy blue, together with leather jackets based on the same cut as blazers (/wiki/Blazer) , began to replace the double breasted 1980s power suits. The wide neckties of the early 1990s remained the norm, but the colors became darker and stripes and patterns were less common. In India (/wiki/Fashion_in_India) and China (/wiki/Chinese_fashion) , the Nehru suit (/wiki/Nehru_suit) and Mao suit (/wiki/Mao_suit) declined in popularity in favor of conventional Western business wear. [100] (#cite_note-100) Tweed cloth (/wiki/Tweed_cloth) and houndstooth (/wiki/Houndstooth) sportcoats (/wiki/Sportcoat) went out of fashion due to their association with older men. [101] (#cite_note-101) Dress shoes (usually in black) included chelsea boots (/wiki/Chelsea_boot) with rounded or square toes, wingtips (/wiki/Brogue_shoe) , and monkstraps. [65] (#cite_note-FashionIn1997-65) In America, an increasing number of men began to dress smart-casual (/wiki/Smart-casual) and business casual (/wiki/Business_casual) , a trend kickstarted by Bill Gates (/wiki/Bill_Gates) of Microsoft (/wiki/Microsoft) . [102] (#cite_note-102) At more formal events such as weddings or proms, men often wear boxy three [103] (#cite_note-103) or four button, single-breasted suits with a brightly colored tie (/wiki/Necktie) and an often matching dress shirt. Another trend was to wear black shirts, black ties, and black suits. [64] (#cite_note-1997Garments-64) Black leather reefer jackets (/wiki/Reefer_jacket) and trenchcoats (/wiki/Trenchcoat) were also fashionable in the late 1990s, the latter inspired by The Matrix (/wiki/The_Matrix) . [104] (#cite_note-104) Youth fashion [ edit ] General trends [ edit ] Tracksuit For much of the 1990s, particularly the middle years, teenage boys and girls bought and wore very simple clothes, such as shortalls, flannel shirts, athletic shorts, dress shorts short or bermuda length, track suits, high-waisted ankle length jeans and pants, plain or pleated, leggings, bike shorts, stretch pants and stirrup pants, oversized shirts, sweaters and sweatshirts, slouch socks, striped tube socks sometimes folded down at the top, bodysuits as tops, jogger pants and turtlenecks. Popular shoe brands or styles included Keds (/wiki/Keds) , Converse Chuck Taylor All-Stars (/wiki/Chuck_Taylor_All-Stars) , ballet flats (/wiki/Ballet_flats) , and boat shoes (/wiki/Boat_shoes) . [105] (#cite_note-105) Popular stores selling these items included Gap (/wiki/Gap_Inc.) , Urban Outfitters (/wiki/Urban_Outfitters) , JCPenney (/wiki/JCPenney) and Kohls (/wiki/Kohl%27s) . [34] (#cite_note-1995FashionReview-34) The 1990s was the Golden Age (/wiki/Disney_Renaissance) of Disney (/wiki/Disney) films. T-shirts and sweaters featuring characters such as Simba (/wiki/Simba) , Mickey Mouse (/wiki/Mickey_Mouse) , Belle (/wiki/Belle_(Disney)) , Aladdin (/wiki/Aladdin_(Disney_character)) , and Winnie the Pooh (/wiki/Winnie_the_Pooh_(character)) were popular among young children. Subcultures of the 1990s [ edit ] Grunge [ edit ] Acid washed jean shorts with grunge and hippie inspired DIY slogans and pictures. Main article: Grunge fashion (/wiki/Grunge_fashion) The new wave (/wiki/New_wave_music) and heavy metal fashion (/wiki/Heavy_metal_fashion) of the 1980s lasted until 1992, when Grunge (/wiki/Grunge) and hip hop fashion (/wiki/Hip_hop_fashion) took over in popularity. [106] (#cite_note-106) By the mid-1990s the grunge style had gone mainstream in Britain and the US, and was dominated by tartan (/wiki/Tartan) flannel (/wiki/Flannel) shirts and stonewashed blue jeans (/wiki/Jeans) . Grunge fashion remained popular among the skater subculture (/wiki/Skater_subculture) until the late 1990s as the hard-wearing, loose-fitting clothing was cheap and provided good protection. [107] (#cite_note-:0-107) Members of the subculture were nicknamed grebos or moshers (/wiki/Moshing) and included those who did not skate. Psychobilly, punk and skater [ edit ] Main article: Punk fashion (/wiki/Punk_fashion) Hardcore (/wiki/Hardcore_punk) punk fashion (/wiki/Punk_fashion) , which began in the 1970s, was very popular in the 1990s, [107] (#cite_note-:0-107) especially among the skater subculture (/wiki/Skater_subculture) . Common items for pop punk (/wiki/Pop_punk) and nu metal (/wiki/Nu_metal) fans included bright colored/blond tipped spiky hair (/wiki/Bright_colored/blond_tipped_spiky_hair) , long under sleeves, black hoodies, and baggy pants (/wiki/Baggy_pants) in black, mint blue, or red Royal Stewart tartan (/wiki/Royal_Stewart_tartan) . Garage punk (/wiki/Garage_punk) band, 1997 In the US, psychobilly (/wiki/Psychobilly) bands Reverend Horton Heat (/wiki/Reverend_Horton_Heat) and Rocket from the Crypt (/wiki/Rocket_from_the_Crypt) popularized brothel creepers (/wiki/Brothel_creepers) , gas station (/wiki/Gas_station) shirts (/wiki/Shirt) and dark-colored bowling shirts during the late 1990s. Rave culture and clubwear [ edit ] Main article: Rave (/wiki/Rave) Popular fashion themes of the rave subculture during the early 1990s included plastic aesthetics, various fetish fashions (/wiki/Fetish_fashion) especially PVC (/wiki/PVC) miniskirts and tops, DIY (/wiki/DIY) and tie dye (/wiki/Tie_dye) outfits, vintage 1970s clothing, second-hand optics, retro (/wiki/Retro_style#Fashion_design) sportswear (such as Adidas tracksuits), and outfits themed around sex (showing much skin and nudity, e.g. wearing transparent or crop tops), war (e.g. in the form of combat boots or camouflage trousers), postmodernism and science fiction themes. In the early 1990s the first commercial rave fashion trends developed from the underground scene, which were quickly taken up by the fashion industry and marketed under the term clubwear . [108] (#cite_note-rave_culture_and_clubwear-108) Common raver fashion styles of the 1990s included tight-fitting nylon shirts, tight nylon quilted vests, bell-bottoms (/wiki/Bell-bottoms) , neoprene jackets, studded belts, platform shoes (/wiki/Platform_shoe) , jackets, scarves and bags made of flokati (/wiki/Flokati) fur, fluffy boots (/wiki/Fluffy_(footwear)) and phat pants (/wiki/Phat_pants) , often in bright and neon colors (/wiki/Neon_color) . Crowd of rave-goers, 1995. Common unisex hairstyles included neon colored spiky hair (/wiki/Spiky_hair) , natural dreadlocks, undercut hairstyles (/wiki/Undercut_hairstyle) , and synthetic hairpieces, and many ravers in the US and Europe wore tattoos and body piercings (/wiki/Body_piercing) . Widespread accessories included wristbands and collars, whistles (/wiki/Whistle) , pacifiers (/wiki/Pacifier) , feather boas (/wiki/Feather_boa) , cyberpunk (/wiki/Cyberpunk) inspired goggles (/wiki/Goggles) , glow sticks (/wiki/Glow_stick) , and record bags made of truck tarpaulins. [109] (#cite_note-spiegel_special-109) [110] (#cite_note-Muri_1999-110) Hip-Hop [ edit ] Main article: Hip-hop fashion (/wiki/Hip-hop_fashion) Swedish hip-hop fans watch Public Enemy (/wiki/Public_Enemy_(group)) perform in 1991. The early 1990s saw widespread interest in hip hop (/wiki/Hip_hop) and gangsta rap (/wiki/Gangsta_rap) due to the influences of MC Hammer (/wiki/MC_Hammer) , Tupac Shakur (/wiki/Tupac_Shakur) , Eazy-E (/wiki/Eazy-E) , Dr. Dre (/wiki/Dr._Dre) , N.W.A (/wiki/N.W.A) , Wu-Tang Clan (/wiki/Wu-Tang_Clan) , and Public Enemy (/wiki/Public_Enemy_(group)) . The sagging (/wiki/Sagging_(fashion)) trend began in the early 1990s and continued until the 2010s (/wiki/2010s_in_fashion) . Wide leg jeans (/wiki/Wide_leg_jeans) , Plaid (/wiki/Full_plaid) , Khakis (/wiki/Khakis) , Locs glasses (/wiki/Locs_glasses) , bomber jackets (/wiki/Bomber_jacket) , tracksuits (/wiki/Tracksuits) and baseball caps (/wiki/Baseball_cap) and snapback hats (/wiki/Snapback_hat) worn backwards became popular among hip hop (/wiki/Hip_hop) fans together with gold chains, sovereign rings (/wiki/Sovereign_ring) , and FUBU (/wiki/FUBU) T-shirts. [111] (#cite_note-111) By the end of the decade, hip hop fashion (/wiki/Hip_hop_fashion) had influenced many global subcultures, especially the British chavs (/wiki/Chav) with their tracksuits and white trainers, the sneakerheads (/wiki/Sneakerhead) of America and Asia, and the ICP (/wiki/Insane_Clown_Posse) fans known as Juggalos (/wiki/Juggalo) [112] (#cite_note-112) with their all-black outfits and evil clown (/wiki/Evil_clown) corpse paint (/wiki/Corpse_paint) . [113] (#cite_note-113) Britpop [ edit ] Main article: Cool Britannia (/wiki/Cool_Britannia) In the mid-1990s, indie rock (/wiki/Indie_rock) , Madchester (/wiki/Madchester) , and Britpop (/wiki/Britpop) bands Blur (/wiki/Blur_(band)) , Stone Roses (/wiki/Stone_Roses) , and Oasis (/wiki/Oasis_(band)) [114] (#cite_note-114) resulted in a revival of 1970s fashions, including Mod haircuts (/wiki/Mod_haircut) , aviator sunglasses (/wiki/Aviator_sunglasses) , denim (/wiki/Denim) jackets, green parkas (/wiki/Parka) , harrington jackets (/wiki/Harrington_jacket) , velvet (/wiki/Velvet) sportcoats (/wiki/Sportcoat) , striped shirts, Ben Sherman (/wiki/Ben_Sherman) polo shirts (/wiki/Polo_shirt) , T-shirts bearing the RAF roundel (/wiki/RAF_roundel) , [115] (#cite_note-115) and Union Jack (/wiki/Union_Jack) motifs including the dress (/wiki/Union_Jack_dress) worn by the Spice Girls (/wiki/Spice_Girls) ' Geri Halliwell (/wiki/Geri_Halliwell) . [116] (#cite_note-116) Goth [ edit ] Example of late 1990s gothic fashion (/wiki/Gothic_fashion) . During the mid to late 1990s, gothic fashion (/wiki/Gothic_fashion) peaked in popularity among American, German and British teenagers seeking to break from the mainstream. [117] (#cite_note-117) Black leather trenchcoats (/wiki/Trenchcoat) , frilly poet shirts (/wiki/Poet_shirt) , winklepickers (/wiki/Winklepickers) , velvet blazers, long black hair, fetish clothing (/wiki/Fetish_clothing) , and tight pants (/wiki/Tight_pants) were a common sight on both sexes, and girls often wore Victorian inspired corsets (/wiki/Corset) , lace gloves, Demonia (/wiki/Demonia_(brand)) boots, and short leather skirts. [118] (#cite_note-118) [119] (#cite_note-119) Preppy [ edit ] Main article: Preppy (/wiki/Preppy) The conservative preppy (/wiki/Preppy) look of the 1980s remained popular among wealthy teenagers in the Eastern US until the late 1990s, when many members of the subculture (/wiki/Ghetto_prep) began adopting elements of hip hop fashion (/wiki/Hip_hop_fashion) . [120] (#cite_note-120) Typical clothing for preppies of the 1990s included khaki (/wiki/Khaki) chinos (/wiki/Chinos) , and high waisted ankle length jeans and pants plain or pleated. Navy blue (/wiki/Navy_blue) blazers (/wiki/Blazer) , Oxford shirts (/wiki/Oxford_shirt) , brogues (/wiki/Brogues) , Keds (/wiki/Keds) worn with everything especially leggings (/wiki/Leggings) , with slouch socks, oversized sweatshirts, oversized sweaters or oversized tees, stirrup pants (/wiki/Stirrup_pants) worn over tights or pantyhose with flats and an oversized top, sweaters and tees, boat shoes (/wiki/Boat_shoes) , ballet flats (/wiki/Ballet_flats) , coach jackets (/wiki/Coach_jacket) , baseball jackets (/wiki/Baseball_jacket) , mom jeans (/wiki/Mom_jeans) , shortalls (/wiki/Overalls) , jeans worn with a leotard (/wiki/Leotard) or bodysuit (/wiki/Bodysuit) as a top, shorts or skirts worn with blazers (for girls), shorts suit with dress shorts short or bermuda length with tights underneath, ballet flats (/wiki/Ballet_flats) and a top and jacket, sweater over a turtleneck (/wiki/Turtleneck) , and Champion (/wiki/Champion_(sportswear)) crew neck sweatshirts worn over a turtleneck (/wiki/Turtleneck) . [121] (#cite_note-121) A typical outfit included leggings (/wiki/Leggings) with an oversized v neck sweater over a turtleneck, slouch socks (/wiki/Slouch_socks) , and Keds (/wiki/Keds_(shoes)) , Sperrys (/wiki/Sperry_Top-Sider) boat shoes or Sperrys white sneakers. Also plaid or plain short dresses and skirts with pastel or white knee socks worn over the knee or folded at the top of the knee with ballet flats or boat shoes. Neat, well-groomed hairstyles were popular among upper elementary, middle school, high school and college age girls, including the bangs (/wiki/Bangs_(hair)) , straightened hime cut (/wiki/Hime_cut) side bunches (/wiki/Bunches) , or high regular ponytails (/wiki/Ponytails) worn with scrunchies (/wiki/Scrunchies) and headbands (/wiki/Headbands) many times in combination with bangs. Hairstyles of the 1990s [ edit ] Women's hairstyles [ edit ] Actress Liv Tyler (/wiki/Liv_Tyler) sporting a pixie cut (/wiki/Pixie_cut) , 1998 Women's hair in the early 1990s continued in the big, curly style of the 1980s. High and high sided ponytails (/wiki/Ponytail) continued through most of the decade, especially when playing sports and at the gym. These were worn with a scrunchie (/wiki/Scrunchie) until the mid-1990s, when they were replaced by hair ties (/wiki/Hair_tie) . Bangs (/wiki/Bangs_(hair)) remained big throughout the decade, especially the poofy "mall bangs" style associated with the early 1990s. From 1994 and through 2000s they got smaller and somewhat flatter and laid closer to the forehead. [ citation needed ] The pixie cut (/wiki/Pixie_cut) and Rachel haircut (/wiki/Rachel_haircut) , based on the hairstyles of Jennifer Aniston (/wiki/Jennifer_Aniston) in Friends (/wiki/Friends) and Marlo Thomas (/wiki/Marlo_Thomas) in That Girl (/wiki/That_Girl) , were popular in America from 1995 onwards. [122] (#cite_note-122) Around the same time red hair also became a desirable color for women, as well as feathered bangs, [35] (#cite_note-1995FashionTrends-35) and mini hair-buns. [123] (#cite_note-90sHairstylesWomen-123) From 1995 until 2008, dark-haired women tended to dye their hair a lighter color with blonde highlights (popularized by Jennifer Aniston (/wiki/Jennifer_Aniston) ). In the late 1990s, the Bob cut (/wiki/Bob_cut) was well-desired, popularized and rejuvenated by Victoria Beckham (/wiki/Victoria_Beckham) of the Spice Girls (/wiki/Spice_Girls) . This late 1990s style bob cut featured a center, side, or zig-zag part, as opposed to the thick bangs of the early 1990s. The Farrah Fawcett hairstyle (/wiki/Feathered_hair) made a comeback, with highlights (/wiki/Hair_highlighting) going hand-in-hand with this revival. [124] (#cite_note-124) Other late 1990s haircuts included "Felicity curls" (popularized by Keri Russell (/wiki/Keri_Russell) in the hit TV show Felicity (/wiki/Felicity_(TV_series)) ), the Fishtail Half-Up, and pigtails, [123] (#cite_note-90sHairstylesWomen-123) as well as the continuation of mid 1990s hairdos. Children's and teenager's hairstyles [ edit ] Butterfly (/wiki/Barrette) and floral clips (/wiki/Barrette) , worn in the mid and late 1990s. For teenage boys, longer hair was popular in the early to mid-1990s, including collar-length curtained hair (/wiki/Curtained_hair) , long and unkempt grunge hair (/wiki/Grunge_hair) , the blond surfer hair (/wiki/Surfer_hair) popular among some Britpop (/wiki/Britpop) fans, and dreadlocks (/wiki/Dreadlocks) . During the mid-1990s, the much-ridiculed bowl cut (/wiki/Bowl_cut) became a fad among skaters, while hip-hop fans wore a variant of the flattop (/wiki/Flattop) known as the hi-top fade (/wiki/Hi-top_fade) . In the late 1990s, hair was usually buzzed (/wiki/Buzz_cut) very short for an athletic look, although a few grunge fans grew their hair long in reaction to this. For teenage girls and younger children, hair was worn long with heavily teased bangs called "mall bangs" which were long fringes covering the forehead. From 1994 through the 2000s they got smaller, somewhat flatter, and laid closer to the forehead. Alice bands (/wiki/Alice_band) , headbands (/wiki/Headband) and scrunchies (/wiki/Scrunchie) of various styles and colors (especially red, navy blue polka dot, plaid and neon) were popular with American girls throughout the early and mid-1990s, and they frequently wore them with twin pigtails (/wiki/Pigtails) , or high or high side ponytails (/wiki/Ponytail) and bangs (/wiki/Bangs_(hair)) . Beginning in the late 1990s and continuing into the 2010s, straightened hair and variants of the French braid (/wiki/French_braid) became popular in Europe. Men's hairstyles [ edit ] Young man in 1995, sporting a short undercut hairstyle. The 1990s generally saw the continued popularity of longer hair on men, especially in the United States, Scandinavia and Canada. In the early 1990s, curtained hair (/wiki/Curtained_hair) , mullets (/wiki/Mullet_(haircut)) , and ponytails (/wiki/Ponytail) were popular. Other trends included flattops (/wiki/Flattop) , hi-top fades (/wiki/Hi-top_fade) , and cornrows (/wiki/Cornrows) . [125] (#cite_note-Crucial'90sMensDos-125) In the mid-1990s, men's hairstyle trends [126] (#cite_note-90soutfits-126) went in several different directions. Younger men who were more amenable had adopted the Caesar cut (/wiki/Caesar_cut) , [127] (#cite_note-127) either natural or dyed. This style was popularized by George Clooney (/wiki/George_Clooney) [128] (#cite_note-128) on the hit TV show ER (/wiki/ER_(TV_series)) in season two, which premiered in mid 1995. More rebellious young men went for longer, unkempt "grunge" hair, [125] (#cite_note-Crucial'90sMensDos-125) often with a center part. The curtained hairstyle was at its peak in popularity, and sideburns (/wiki/Sideburns) went out of style. [129] (#cite_note-129) Meanwhile, most professional men over 30 had conservative 1950s style bouffant (/wiki/Bouffant) haircuts, regular haircuts (/wiki/Regular_haircut) , or the Caesar cut. [125] (#cite_note-Crucial'90sMensDos-125) In the late 1990s, it was considered unstylish and unattractive for men and boys to have longer hair. As a result, short hair completely took over. From 1997 onwards, aside from curtained hair (/wiki/Curtained_hair) (which was popular throughout the decade), spiky hair (/wiki/Spiky_hair) , [125] (#cite_note-Crucial'90sMensDos-125) bleached hair, [125] (#cite_note-Crucial'90sMensDos-125) crew cuts (/wiki/Crew_cuts) , and variants of the quiff (/wiki/Quiff) became popular among younger men. Dark haired men dyed their spikes blonde or added wavy blonde streaks, a trend which continued into the 2000s. Variants of the surfer hair (/wiki/Surfer_hair) were popular among rock musicians during that time period. For African-American men, the cornrows (/wiki/Cornrows) (popularized by former NBA player Allen Iverson (/wiki/Allen_Iverson) ) and buzz cut (/wiki/Buzz_cut) were a popular trend that continued into the 2000s. Makeup and cosmetic trends [ edit ] Nude and darker shades of lipstick (/wiki/Lipstick) seemed popular throughout the decade. ( Fran Drescher (/wiki/Fran_Drescher) , 1996 ) Women's makeup in the early 1990s primarily consisted of dark red lipstick and neutral eyes. [130] (#cite_note-MakeupHistory-130) Around 1992 the "grunge look" came into style among younger women and the look was based on dark red lipstick and smudged eyeliner and eyeshadow (/wiki/Eyeshadow) . Both styles of makeup continued into 1994, [131] (#cite_note-131) but went out of style the next year. The trends in makeup shifted in the mid-1990s. In 1995, nude shades became desirable and women had a broader color palette in brown. Another makeup trend that emerged was matte lipsticks, with deep shades of red and dark wine colors worn as part of night makeup. [132] (#cite_note-90sOutfits-132) Blue-frosted eye shadow became fashionable, [35] (#cite_note-1995FashionTrends-35) and was eventually integrated into the Y2K makeup of the late 1990s/early 2000s (decade). Gothic makeup had broken into the mainstream, having been made up of vamp lipstick (or even black lipstick), heavy mascara and eyeliner, often purple-tinted eye shadow (or else very dark blue), and extremely pale foundation. The Gothic makeup remained relevant in the later years of the decade. By 1999, glittery, sparkling makeup had come into style. [133] (#cite_note-MakeupFor2000-133) This was called "Y2K makeup", consisting of facial glitter and lip gloss. Blue-frosted eye shadow remained a staple of late 1990s makeup, although silver was ideal look. Dark eyeliner was considered bodacious. Pale, shiny lips became desirable, as lip gloss largely replaced lipstick. [130] (#cite_note-MakeupHistory-130) An alternative for those who did not like metallics were purples and browns. [133] (#cite_note-MakeupFor2000-133) Goth makeup and Y2K makeup continued into the early 2000s (/wiki/2000s_(decade)) . Gallery [ edit ] A selection of images related to the period. Swedish teenager with mullet haircut (/wiki/Mullet_haircut) and abstract jumper, 1991. Kurt Cobain (/wiki/Kurt_Cobain) , 1992. He wears grunge clothing, popular from 1991 to 1996. The catsuit (/wiki/Catsuit) became a trend in the late 1990s. Normally made of latex (/wiki/Latex) , PVC (/wiki/PVC) , or spandex (/wiki/Spandex) , it was often worn with high-heeled boots. Dancers at the 1992 Snoqualmie Moondance Festival (/w/index.php?title=Snoqualmie_Moondance_Festival&action=edit&redlink=1) in Snoqualmie, Washington (/wiki/Snoqualmie,_Washington) . The German electronic rock (/wiki/Electronic_rock) duo Das Ich (/wiki/Das_Ich) , 1993. Their aspect shows the influence of the goth look (/wiki/Gothic_fashion) which returned in the 1990s. African-American (/wiki/African-American) teenager with Hitop fade (/wiki/Hi-top_fade) , popular in the early 1990s. Dutch high school prom, 1994. Chokers (/wiki/Choker) , popular in the mid- and late-1990s. Lois McMaster Bujold (/wiki/Lois_McMaster_Bujold) with pixie cut (/wiki/Pixie_cut) and denim western shirt (/wiki/Western_shirt) , 1996. US First Lady Hillary Clinton (/wiki/Hillary_Clinton) wearing a straw hat (/wiki/Straw_hat) , 1995. Slap bracelet (/wiki/Slap_bracelet) worn by young girls in the early 1990s. Converse All Stars (/wiki/Chuck_Taylor_All-Stars) , popular in the early 1990s. Electronic musician and DJ James Lavelle (/wiki/James_Lavelle) dressed in club (/wiki/Nightclub) attire, 1997. Bomber jacket (/wiki/Bomber_jacket) with orange lining, popular from the mid- to late-1990s. Group of high school students, 1997. Woman dressed in black maxi skirt (/wiki/Maxi_skirt) , top and hat, 1995. Baseball jackets (/wiki/Baseball_jacket) were popular among hip-hop fans in the mid-1990s. Women's side gusset (/wiki/Gusset) shoes were popular among preppy (/wiki/Preppy) and hip-hop subcultures in the mid- to late-1990s. Go-go boots became fashionable again in 1995. They were worn by women of the hip-hop, alternative, and dance subcultures. Block-heeled shoes, popular from 1995 to 2001. Black Barbour bucket hat (/wiki/Bucket_hat) . Woman wearing a crop top (/wiki/Crop_top) and bell-bottoms (/wiki/Bell-bottoms) , 1997. Woman with what would come be known as the Rachel haircut (/wiki/Rachel_haircut) , early 1990s. A man wearing a power suit (/wiki/Power_suit_(clothing)) , popular in the European workplace. The suit jacket is double-breasted (/wiki/Double-breasted) with large shoulder pads (/wiki/Shoulder_pad_(fashion)) . Photograph taken in 1998. Group of young children displaying various fashion trends. Amman (/wiki/Amman) , 1998. Church members exhibiting assorted fashion trends. Amman, 1998. Two women wearing bandanas (/wiki/Bandana) , 1999. Cargo pants (/wiki/Cargo_pants) . Blue wide-leg jeans (/wiki/Wide-leg_jeans) . A pair of British Knights (/wiki/British_Knights) . Woman wearing a polo shirt (/wiki/Polo_shirt) with a popped collar (/wiki/Popped_collar) . Long maxi skirt (/wiki/Maxi_skirt) in a Liberty floral print. See also [ edit ] 1990s portal (/wiki/Portal:1990s) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Deconstruction (fashion) (/wiki/Deconstruction_(fashion)) 1980s in fashion (/wiki/1980s_in_fashion) 2000s in fashion (/wiki/2000s_in_fashion) External links [ edit ] Media related to 1990s fashion (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:1990s_fashion) at Wikimedia Commons References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Mower, Sarah (2010-09-09). 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Ambiguously defined Western dress code This article is about the dress code. For the album, see Smart Casual (album) (/wiki/Smart_Casual_(album)) . This article needs additional citations for verification (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this article (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Smart_casual) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Find sources: "Smart casual" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Smart+casual%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Smart+casual%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Smart+casual%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Smart+casual%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Smart+casual%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Smart+casual%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( February 2011 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) An example of smart casual attire with a blazer (/wiki/Blazer) . Part of a series (/wiki/Category:Formal_wear) on Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) and corresponding attires (/wiki/Clothing) Formal (/wiki/Formal_wear) ( full dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) White tie (/wiki/White_tie) Morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) Full dress uniform (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) Frock coat (/wiki/Frock_coat) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Ball gown (/wiki/Ball_gown) Semi-formal (/wiki/Semi-formal_wear) ( half dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) Black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) Black lounge suit (/wiki/Black_lounge_suit) Mess dress uniform (/wiki/Mess_dress_uniform) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Informal (/wiki/Informal_wear) ( undress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) , "dress clothes") Suit (/wiki/Suit) Service dress uniform (/wiki/Service_dress_uniform) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Pantsuit (/wiki/Pantsuit) Casual (/wiki/Casual_wear) (anything not above) Business casual (/wiki/Business_casual) Casual Friday (/wiki/Casual_Friday) Combat uniform (/wiki/Combat_uniform) Smart casual Workwear (/wiki/Workwear) Streetwear (/wiki/Streetwear) Sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear) known as Sportswear (fashion) (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) and Athleisure (/wiki/Athleisure) Undress (/wiki/Undress_code) Supplementary alternatives Ceremonial dress (/wiki/Ceremonial_dress) law courts (/wiki/Court_dress) royal courts (/wiki/Court_uniform_and_dress_in_the_United_Kingdom) diplomatic (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) academic (/wiki/Academic_dress) , etc. Religious clothing (/wiki/Religious_clothing) cassock (/wiki/Cassock) , habit (/wiki/Religious_habit) , etc. Folk costume (/wiki/Folk_costume) Distinctions Orders (/wiki/Order_(distinction)) medals (/wiki/Medal) , etc. Legend: = Day (before 6 p.m.) = Evening (after 6 p.m.) = Bow tie (/wiki/Bow_tie) colour = Ladies = Gentlemen Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) v t e Smart casual is an ambiguously defined Western dress code (/wiki/Western_dress_code) that is generally considered casual wear (/wiki/Casual_wear) but with smart (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/smart#English) (in the sense of "well dressed") components of a proper lounge suit (/wiki/Lounge_suit) from traditional informal wear (/wiki/Informal_wear) . For men, this interpretation typically includes dress shirt (/wiki/Dress_shirt) , necktie (/wiki/Necktie) , trousers (/wiki/Trousers) , and dress shoes (/wiki/Dress_shoes) , possibly worn with an odd-coloured blazer (/wiki/Blazer) or a sports coat (/wiki/Sports_coat) . Smart casual formed as a dress code in the 20th century, originally designating a lounge suit of unconventional colour and less heavy and thus more casual fabric, possibly with more casual cut and details. As the one-coloured lounge suit came to define informal wear (/wiki/Informal_wear) , thus uneven colours became associated with smart casual. The definition of smart casual and business casual thus became virtually undistinguishable from the 1950s, implying a more casual suit than the traditional, usual dark suit in heavy cloth. Since the counterculture of the 1960s (/wiki/Counterculture_of_the_1960s) in the Western world (/wiki/Western_world) , different Western cultures (/wiki/Culture) and events can have varying expectation of the dress code (/wiki/Dress_code) , especially with regards to necktie (/wiki/Necktie) , and in warmer climates sometimes even with regards to a jacket at all. Therefore, the designation of certain clothing pieces as smart casual is disputed, as is its distinction, if any, from business casual (/wiki/Business_casual) . History [ edit ] Smart casual was first mentioned in the Iowa newspaper The Davenport Democrat And Leader (/wiki/Quad-City_Times) in May 1924: The sleeveless dress with three-quarter overblouses, in smock appearance completing it for street wear, is accorded various interpretations. It is at once practiced and gives a smart casual appearance. [1] (#cite_note-Phrasefinder-1) Smart casual was commonly used in the 20th century and merged to form the term business casual (/wiki/Business_casual) in the 1950s, implying a more casual suit than the traditional, usual dark suit in heavy cloth. [1] (#cite_note-Phrasefinder-1) Definitions [ edit ] Man wearing a sport coat (/wiki/Sport_coat) with khakis (/wiki/Khaki#Use_in_civilian_clothing) as part of a smart casual look. Australia (/wiki/Australia) 's national dictionary (/wiki/Dictionary) , Macquarie Dictionary (/wiki/Macquarie_Dictionary) , defines smart casual as "well-dressed in a casual style". [2] (#cite_note-2) Oxford (/wiki/Oxford_English_Dictionary) defines it as "neat, conventional, yet relatively informal in style, especially as worn to conform to a particular dress code". [3] (#cite_note-3) Dictionary.com's 21st Century Lexicon (/wiki/Reference.com) defines it as "of clothing, somewhat informal but neat". [4] (#cite_note-4) Apparel [ edit ] Top Left: Women wearing shirts along with microskirts (/wiki/Microskirt) and hotpants (/wiki/Hotpants) at work. Top Right: Woman wearing a suit (/wiki/Suit_(clothing)) without shirt or bra (/wiki/Bra) under it. Bottom Left: Facebook COO Sheryl Sandberg (/wiki/Sheryl_Sandberg) in a minidress (/wiki/Minidress) . Bottom Right: Woman wearing shirtdress (/wiki/Shirtdress) without any trousers or skirt. These can be considered as new fashion trends (/wiki/Fashion_trends) of women's smart casuals. Personal judgment is required to interpret the ill-defined term smart casual based on its context, theme, people, location, weather and spirit. Italian fashion house Brioni (/wiki/Brioni_(fashion)) explains smart casual is not an issue of inventory or classification but rather knowledge and good taste to understand the environment; demonstrating that smart casual during summer in Sardinia (/wiki/Sardinia) is different from smart casual during winter in Toronto (/wiki/Toronto) . [5] (#cite_note-HenryBucks-5) An Australian freelance fashion director remarks, "Smart Casual is the dress code most open to interpretation and the one least understood", and advises wearing fresher colors, lighter, softer materials, patterned, relaxed, thoughtful, less structured, clean and not confrontational apparel, with fabrics like linen, cashmere, fine wool and cotton that are freshly laundered. [5] (#cite_note-HenryBucks-5) Global men's fashion magazine Topman (/wiki/Topman) emphasizes the flexibility of smart casual . [6] (#cite_note-Topman-6) An individual's personality and pleasure of clothing choice defines the dress code provided that the attire is a multi-purpose outfit that is acceptable for formal occasions, dating (/wiki/Dating) or casual social gatherings (/wiki/Party) . Topman explains casual and formal clothing pieces are mixed and matched, and illustrates a smart casual outfit can include a mixture of jeans (/wiki/Jeans) , blazers (/wiki/Blazer) , sport coats (/wiki/Sport_coat) , sweaters (/wiki/Sweater) , necktie (/wiki/Neckties) , a pair of Brogue shoes (/wiki/Brogue_shoe) , dress shirts (/wiki/Dress_shirt) or a pair of Converse shoes (/wiki/Converse_(shoe_company)) . Business blogger, Maurilio Amorim, notes that although jeans are usually not an option, the Burnt Hills smart casual variation allows for crisp blue jeans to be worn (no holes or places where you stepped on the heel too much). A tie is usually introduced to the ensemble, and the wearing of a jacket is stressed. [7] (#cite_note-7) Norwegian and American cruise line brand Royal Caribbean International (/wiki/Royal_Caribbean_International) clarifies smart casual for main dining on-board its fleet. [8] (#cite_note-RCI-8) Blazers, trousers (/wiki/Trousers) , neckties or shirts are acceptable but shorts (/wiki/Shorts) , jeans or t-shirts (/wiki/T-Shirt) are unacceptable for men. Dress (/wiki/Dress) , casual dresses, or pantsuits (/wiki/Pantsuit) are acceptable for women. Global women's magazine Cosmopolitan (/wiki/Cosmopolitan_(magazine)) in South Africa (/wiki/South_Africa) interprets smart casual as the way most South African women dress for work. [9] (#cite_note-CosmoSA-9) In addition to work, the outfit is also interchangeable for use at large or small daytime parties, and wearing a dress shirt with elegant accessories is suggested. Australian state newspaper The Sunday Mail (/wiki/The_Sunday_Mail_(Brisbane)) in Brisbane (/wiki/Brisbane) defines a man's smart casual in a workplace and event context as a "look sharp without being too formal; it's professional but also relaxed." [10] (#cite_note-SundayTimes-10) A jacket, dress shirt, necktie and jeans are demonstrated as smart casual attire. Piping (/wiki/Piping_(sewing)) on a jacket to give it the "preppy look" to downgrade formality is illustrated as a polished look. Detailing, such as a striped canvas belt and white shoes with a pair of casual trousers and a check shirt (/wiki/Gingham) , is emphasized for a smart casual look. It is suggested men have: (a) a pair of chinos (/wiki/Chino_cloth) in any color from primary shades to pastels; (b) a short sleeve shirt in checks or a solid bright color; and (c) a deconstructed jacket in their wardrobe. Canadian Broadcasting Corporation (/wiki/Canadian_Broadcasting_Corporation) 's Steven and Chris (/wiki/Steven_and_Chris) explain smart casual is an "easy and comfortable way to dress." [11] (#cite_note-StevenAndChris-11) Jeans, depending on the workplace's context and environment, are not recommended. For men's attire, a pair of khakis or casual pants with a collared or polo shirt (/wiki/Polo_shirt) and a blazer is illustrated. For women's attire, the stylists note the diversity of clothing options and recommend: (a) keeping the clothing pieces easy; (b) the fabrics not too dressy; and (c) the accessories more casual. British national newspaper The Guardian (/wiki/The_Guardian) attempts clarifying smart casual from a recruitment (/wiki/Recruitment) perspective by questioning various recruitment consultants. [12] (#cite_note-12) They responded: (a) stand out but blend in by understanding the workplace's environment; (b) achieve a business-professional look by clarifying the attire in advance because "it's easier to be overdressed than underdressed"; (c) wear a smart coat if avoiding a suit (/wiki/Suit_(clothing)) to give the impression of a "good entrance because it has an air of formality: e.g., a well-cut trench, worn with open shirt and neat slacks (/wiki/Trousers) "; (d) wear accessories to "show creativity and attention to detail", but keep them to a minimum; (e) smart, plain and straight jeans are acceptable; and (f) shoes should be clean and un-scruffy. Smart casual style with non-matching trousers and without necktie Global men's fashion magazine GQ (/wiki/GQ) in the United Kingdom (/wiki/United_Kingdom) attempts defining smart casual for a job interview. [13] (#cite_note-GQ-13) Wearing chinos, a blazer and white shirt to make an impression is suggested. Carrying a necktie is advisable; the author comments, "it is far more embarrassing to be under-dressed than over". Pakistani fashion magazine Fashion Central defines a woman's smart casual look from an employment perspective. [14] (#cite_note-FashionCentral-14) Understanding the workplace's environment and culture is emphasized, and checking the company's dress code guideline is highly recommended. Fashion Central outlines smart casual with clothes unstained and wrinkle-free with non-loud and non-bright colors that reflect the woman's age. Too fancy or too casual dresses are inadvisable as well as the use of extreme make-up (/wiki/Make-up) , such as using dark, glossy or chalky shades, or applying too much eye shadow (/wiki/Eye_shadow) . Fashion Central reports black or brown heels are preferred by women and advise to correctly select appropriate shoes for a workplace's environment. See also [ edit ] Dress code (/wiki/Dress_code) Suit (/wiki/Suit) Black lounge suit (/wiki/Black_lounge_suit) Informal wear (/wiki/Informal_wear) Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) Casual wear (/wiki/Casual_wear) Business casual (/wiki/Business_casual) Casual Friday (/wiki/Casual_Friday) Workwear (/wiki/Workwear) Sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b Martin, Gary. "Smart casual" (http://www.phrases.org.uk/meanings/smart-casual.html) . Phrasefinder . Retrieved 29 May 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Macquarie Dictionary" (http://macquariedictionary.com.au) . Macquarie Dictionary Publishers Pty Ltd. 2013 . Retrieved 30 May 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "Definition of smart casual in Oxford Dictionaries" (https://web.archive.org/web/20131029192121/http://www.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/english/smart-casual?q=smart+casual) . Oxford University Press. 2013. Archived from the original (http://oxforddictionaries.com/definition/english/smart-casual?q=smart+casual) on 29 October 2013 . Retrieved 30 May 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Define Smart casual at Dictionary.com" (http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/smart%20casual) . Dictionary.com, LLC. 2013 . Retrieved 30 May 2013 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Smart Casual – Some Thoughts" (https://web.archive.org/web/20140404202233/http://www.henrybucks.com.au/smart-casual-some-thoughts/) . HENRY BUCK PTY LTD. 18 September 2011. Archived from the original on 4 April 2014 . Retrieved 29 May 2013 . {{ cite web (/wiki/Template:Cite_web) }} : CS1 maint: unfit URL ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_unfit_URL) ) ^ (#cite_ref-Topman_6-0) Anka, Carl; Harvey, Laura (13 January 2013). "Smart casual: the ultimate guide" (https://web.archive.org/web/20131202023306/http://magazine.topman.com/category/fashion/smart-casual-the-ultimate-guide) . Topman GENERATION. Archived from the original on 2 December 2013 . Retrieved 29 May 2013 . {{ cite web (/wiki/Template:Cite_web) }} : CS1 maint: unfit URL ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_unfit_URL) ) ^ (#cite_ref-7) "Smart Casual or Business Casual? What's the Difference?" (http://www.maurilioamorim.com/2012/02/smart-casual-or-business-casual-whats-the-difference/) . 24 February 2012. ^ (#cite_ref-RCI_8-0) Adele (3 May 2013). "Cruise Clothing Myth Buster" (http://www.royalcaribbean.co.uk/blog/cruise-clothing-myth-buster/) . Royal Caribbean . Retrieved 7 June 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-CosmoSA_9-0) Rinquest, Mishkah. "Decoded" (http://www.cosmopolitan.co.za/Fashion/HowtoWear/decoded) . Cosmopolitan . Retrieved 30 May 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-SundayTimes_10-0) Alderman, Kellie (18 September 2011). "Wise guys: Smart casual takes on new meaning" (http://www.couriermail.com.au/lifestyle/fashion-beauty/fashion-with-kellie-alderman-wise-guys/story-e6frer4o-1226140135998) . The Sunday Mail (QLD) . News Ltd . Retrieved 11 July 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-StevenAndChris_11-0) Sabados, Steven; Hyndman, Chris. "Decoding the Dress Code" (http://www.cbc.ca/stevenandchris/2009/04/decoding-the-dress-code.html) . Canadian Broadcasting Corporation . Retrieved 12 July 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) Chilvers, Simon (15 August 2009). "The smart-casual interview" (https://www.theguardian.com/money/2009/aug/15/job-interview-clothes) . Guardian News and Media Limited . Retrieved 29 May 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-GQ_13-0) Johnston, Robert. "How to master "smart casual" (https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/style/style-shrink/expert-answer-/gq-style-shrink-smart-casual-for-recruitment-dinner) " (https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/style/style-shrink/expert-answer-/gq-style-shrink-smart-casual-for-recruitment-dinner) . Condé Nast UK . Retrieved 29 May 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-FashionCentral_14-0) "Look Smart & Elegant - Dressing Secrets For Working Women" (http://www.fashioncentral.pk/beauty-style/dresses/story-966-look-smart-elegant-dressing-secrets-for-working-women/#.UaaZUssaySM) . Fashion Central . Retrieved 30 May 2013 . Further reading [ edit ] Heathfield, Susan. Smart Casual Dress Code (http://humanresources.about.com/od/dresscodesforwork/ig/Smart-Casual-Dress-Code/) . About.com. Retrieved 26 November 2015. Southward, Jane (5 November 2009). Crack the dress code (http://www.brisbanetimes.com.au/lifestyle/fashion/crack-the-dress-code-20091104-hwjn.html) . Fairfax Media. 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Uniform for wear on formal occasions This article is about the most formal military uniform. For military uniforms in general, see military uniform (/wiki/Military_uniform) . Officers of the Russian Aerospace Forces (/wiki/Russian_Aerospace_Forces) at the 2019 Moscow Victory Day Parade (/wiki/2019_Moscow_Victory_Day_Parade) in full dress Part of a series (/wiki/Category:Formal_wear) on Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) and corresponding attires (/wiki/Clothing) Formal (/wiki/Formal_wear) ( full dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) White tie (/wiki/White_tie) Morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) Full dress uniform Frock coat (/wiki/Frock_coat) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Ball gown (/wiki/Ball_gown) Semi-formal (/wiki/Semi-formal_wear) ( half dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) Black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) Black lounge suit (/wiki/Black_lounge_suit) Mess dress uniform (/wiki/Mess_dress_uniform) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Informal (/wiki/Informal_wear) ( undress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) , "dress clothes") Suit (/wiki/Suit) Service dress uniform (/wiki/Service_dress_uniform) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Pantsuit (/wiki/Pantsuit) Casual (/wiki/Casual_wear) (anything not above) Business casual (/wiki/Business_casual) Casual Friday (/wiki/Casual_Friday) Combat uniform (/wiki/Combat_uniform) Smart casual (/wiki/Smart_casual) Workwear (/wiki/Workwear) Streetwear (/wiki/Streetwear) Sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear) known as Sportswear (fashion) (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) and Athleisure (/wiki/Athleisure) Undress (/wiki/Undress_code) Supplementary alternatives Ceremonial dress (/wiki/Ceremonial_dress) law courts (/wiki/Court_dress) royal courts (/wiki/Court_uniform_and_dress_in_the_United_Kingdom) diplomatic (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) academic (/wiki/Academic_dress) , etc. Religious clothing (/wiki/Religious_clothing) cassock (/wiki/Cassock) , habit (/wiki/Religious_habit) , etc. Folk costume (/wiki/Folk_costume) Distinctions Orders (/wiki/Order_(distinction)) medals (/wiki/Medal) , etc. Legend: = Day (before 6 p.m.) = Evening (after 6 p.m.) = Bow tie (/wiki/Bow_tie) colour = Ladies = Gentlemen Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) v t e Full dress uniform , also known as a ceremonial dress uniform or parade dress uniform , is the most formal (/wiki/Formal_wear) type of uniforms (/wiki/Uniform) used by military (/wiki/Military) , police (/wiki/Police) , fire (/wiki/Firefighter) and other public uniformed services (/wiki/Uniformed_services) for official parades (/wiki/Parade_(military)) , ceremonies (/wiki/Ceremonies) , and receptions, including private ones such as marriages (/wiki/Marriage) and funerals (/wiki/Funeral) . Full dress uniforms typically include full-size orders (/wiki/Order_(distinction)) and medals (/wiki/Medal) insignia (/wiki/Insignia) . Styles tend to originate from 19th century uniforms, although the 20th century saw the adoption of mess dress (/wiki/Mess_dress_uniform) -styled full-dress uniforms. Designs may depend on regiment (/wiki/Regiment) or service branch (/wiki/Service_branch) (e.g. army (/wiki/Army) , navy (/wiki/Navy) , air force (/wiki/Air_force) , marines (/wiki/Marines) ). In Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) , full dress uniform is a permitted supplementary alternative equivalent to the civilian (/wiki/Civilian) white tie (/wiki/White_tie) for evening wear or morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) for day wear – sometimes collectively called full dress (/wiki/Full_dress) – although military uniforms are the same for day and evening wear. As such, full dress uniform is the most formal uniform, followed by the mess dress uniform (/wiki/Mess_dress_uniform) . Although full dress uniforms are often brightly coloured and ornamented with gold epaulettes (/wiki/Epaulettes) , braids (/wiki/Braid) , lanyards (/wiki/Lanyard) , lampasses (/wiki/Lampasse) , etc., most originated as practical uniforms that, with the adoption of even more practical uniforms, were relegated to ceremonial functions. Before World War I (/wiki/World_War_I) , most armed forces of the world retained uniforms of this type that were usually more colourful and elaborate than the ordinary duty (known as undress (/wiki/Undress) ), or the active service dress uniform (/wiki/Service_dress_uniform) . [1] (#cite_note-1) While full dress uniform is predominantly worn at occasions by commissioned officers (/wiki/Commissioned_officer) and non-commissioned officers (/wiki/Non-commissioned_officer) , it may also be worn as an optional uniform by some senior enlisted personnel (/wiki/Enlisted_personnel) . It is also sometimes worn by members of royal courts (/wiki/Royal_court) , orders of chivalry (/wiki/Order_of_chivalry) or certain civilian uniformed services, although some of these may border to court uniforms (/wiki/Court_uniform_and_dress_in_the_United_Kingdom) . Name [ edit ] The phrase "full dress uniform" is often applied in order to distinguish from semi-formal (/wiki/Semi-formal) mess dress uniforms (/wiki/Mess_dress_uniform) , as well as informal (/wiki/Informal_wear) service dress uniforms (/wiki/Service_dress_uniform) . Yet, a full dress uniform is sometimes simply called a dress uniform . Although many services use the term dress generically for uniforms, allowing it to refer to more modern service dress ("combat") uniforms with suitable modifiers (e.g. the British Army (/wiki/British_Army) 's obsolete Battle Dress (/wiki/Battle_Dress) ; and the U.S. Army (/wiki/U.S._Army) 's obsolete Battle Dress Uniform (/wiki/Battle_Dress_Uniform) ). Therefore, the term dress uniform without prefix typically refers to full dress uniform as described in this article. History [ edit ] During the 19th century a division developed in most armies between the uniform worn for parade and ceremony ("full dress"), active service ("field dress") and daily working ("barrack" or "fatigue" dress). The British (/wiki/British_Army) and United States armies (/wiki/United_States_Army) were dependent upon voluntary recruiting (/wiki/Military_recruitment) and found that a smart uniform served to attract recruits and improve morale amongst those already serving. The British regimental system (/wiki/Regiment) fostered numerous distinctions amongst different units. However, this was not limited to volunteer armies, with conscript (/wiki/Conscription) armies of continental Europe retaining many of the colourful features that had evolved during the nineteenth century, for reasons of national and unit pride. Thus, in 1913 most French soldiers wore red trousers (/wiki/Trouser) and kepis (/wiki/Kepi) as part of their full dress, [2] (#cite_note-2) the majority of British foot regiments retained the scarlet tunics (/wiki/Red_coat_(military_uniform)) for parade (/wiki/Parade) and off duty ("walking out"), [3] (#cite_note-3) the German Army (/wiki/German_Army_(German_Empire)) was characterised by Prussian blue (/wiki/Prussian_blue) , [4] (#cite_note-4) the Russian by dark green, [5] (#cite_note-5) and the Austro-Hungary Army by a wide range of differing facing colours (/wiki/Facing_(sewing)) dating back to the 18th century. [6] (#cite_note-6) There were usually exceptions to each of these rules, often distinguishing unique units. This included the German cuirassiers (/wiki/Cuirassier) , who wore white full dress; British rifle regiments (/wiki/Rifle_regiment) , who wore rifle green (/wiki/Rifle_green) ; and French mountain troops who wore large berets (/wiki/Beret) and light blue trousers. The U.S. Army with its "dress blues" was an exception, with cavalry (/wiki/Cavalry) , artillery (/wiki/Artillery) and infantry (/wiki/Infantry) being distinguished only by the different branch colours. [7] (#cite_note-7) After World War I most full dress uniforms disappeared. Many of the royal or imperial regimes that had taken a particular pride in the retention of colourful traditional uniforms had been overthrown and their republican (/wiki/Republic) , fascist (/wiki/Fascism) , or communist (/wiki/Communism) successors had little incentive to retain old glories. Elsewhere cost and disillusion with the "peacock" aspects of old-fashioned soldiering had a similar effect, except for ceremonial guard units and such limited exceptions as officers (/wiki/Officer_(military)) ' evening or off-duty uniforms. [8] (#cite_note-8) Modern armies are characterised by simple and drably coloured dress even for ceremonial occasion, with the exceptions noted above. However a general trend towards replacing conscript armies with long-serving professionals has had, as a side effect, a reversion to dress uniforms that combine smartness with some traditional features. Thus the U.S. Army announced in 2006 that uniforms of modern cut but in the traditional dark and light blue colours would become universal issue, replacing the previous grey/green service dress. This measure however proved a short lived one, being phased out after 2019. The French Army has, with the abolition of conscription, reintroduced kepis, fringed epaulettes (/wiki/Epaulettes) and sashes in traditional colours to wear with camouflage (/wiki/Camouflage) "trellis" or light beige parade dress. [9] (#cite_note-9) The British Army with its strong regimental traditions has retained a wide range of special features and dress items to distinguish individual units, in spite of recent amalgamations. [10] (#cite_note-10) Although there still exist official patterns for full dress uniforms for each regiment or corps within the British Army, this uniform is seldom issued at public expense, except for units which are often on public duties (/wiki/Public_duties) , such as the Guards Division (/wiki/Guards_Division) , Regimental Bands and Corps of Drums (/wiki/Corps_of_Drums) , which are bought from the Regiment's allowance. [11] (#cite_note-jsp336-3-12-1-11) Full dress uniform by country [ edit ] Argentina [ edit ] Members of the Argentine Navy (/wiki/Argentine_Navy) in full dress. In the Armed Forces of the Argentine Republic (/wiki/Armed_Forces_of_the_Argentine_Republic) , the Argentine Federal Police (/wiki/Argentine_Federal_Police) , Argentine National Gendarmerie and Naval Prefecture, dress uniforms are worn during military and civil occasions, especially for the military bands (/wiki/Military_band) and colour guards (/wiki/Colour_guard) . They are a reminder of the military and law enforcement history of Argentina, especially during the early years of nationhood and the wars of independence that the country was a part. The Argentine Army (/wiki/Argentine_Army) 's modern dress uniform is green with a visor peaked cap, epaulettes, sword set and scabbard (for officers), long green pants, a black belt, and black shoes or boots. However, several regiments within the Argentine Army are authorized ceremonial full dress uniforms which date from the 19th century, including the Regiment of Patricians (/wiki/Regiment_of_Patricians) , the Regiment of Mounted Grenadiers (/wiki/Regiment_of_Mounted_Grenadiers) , and the 1st Artillery Regiment in the Buenos Aires Garrison. The Argentine Navy (/wiki/Argentine_Navy) dress uniform is a navy blue (/wiki/Navy_blue) rig (/wiki/Sailor_suit) with a visor cap for officers and senior ratings and sailor caps for junior ratings, epaulettes and sleeve rank marks (for all offers), a sword set and scabbard for officers, blue long pants (skirts for female personnel), a belt and black leather shoes or boots. Marines wear peaked caps (/wiki/Peaked_cap) with the dress uniform. Epaulettes are only worn with the dress uniform. For the Argentine Air Force (/wiki/Argentine_Air_Force) , a similar uniform to one used by the Royal Air Force in the United Kingdom, however the used the colour used is much brighter. Regardless of service branch military police personnel wear helmets with their dress uniforms, plus armbands to identify service branch. Australia [ edit ] Further information: Uniforms of the Australian Army (/wiki/Uniforms_of_the_Australian_Army) Members of the Australia's Federation Guard (/wiki/Australia%27s_Federation_Guard) in ceremonial dress The Australian Army (/wiki/Australian_Army) has several orders of ceremonial uniforms. [12] (#cite_note-12) The Royal Australian Navy (/wiki/Royal_Australian_Navy) also have a few different ceremonial dress uniforms for its commissioned officers, senior sailors, and junior sailors. [13] (#cite_note-13) Members of the Australian armed forces wear these uniforms for ceremonial occasions, commemorative events and special occasions. [14] (#cite_note-14) Canada [ edit ] Canadian Armed Forces [ edit ] Further information: Uniforms of the Canadian Armed Forces (/wiki/Uniforms_of_the_Canadian_Armed_Forces) and Uniforms of the Royal Canadian Navy (/wiki/Uniforms_of_the_Royal_Canadian_Navy) Members of the Royal Canadian Regiment (/wiki/Royal_Canadian_Regiment) in full dress. The Canadian Army (/wiki/Canadian_Army) 's universal full dress includes a scarlet tunic (/wiki/Red_coat_(military_uniform)) , midnight blue (/wiki/Midnight_blue) trousers, and a Wolseley helmet (/wiki/Wolseley_helmet) . The Canadian Army (/wiki/Canadian_Army) 's universal full dress uniforms includes a scarlet tunic (/wiki/Tunic) , midnight blue (/wiki/Midnight_blue) trousers with a scarlet trouser stripe, and a Wolseley helmet. However, most regiments in the Canadian Army maintain authorized regimental differences from the Army's universal full dress, including several armoured units, Canadian-Scottish regiments (/wiki/Canadian-Scottish_regiment) , foot guards (/wiki/Foot_guards) , and voltigeur (/wiki/Voltigeur) /rifle regiments. Full dress is authorized only for the Royal Canadian Armoured Corps (/wiki/Royal_Canadian_Armoured_Corps) , Royal Regiment of Canadian Artillery (/wiki/Royal_Regiment_of_Canadian_Artillery) and Royal Canadian Infantry Corps (/wiki/Royal_Canadian_Infantry_Corps) . Other army members have no authorized full dress uniform. [15] (#cite_note-inst-15) [16] (#cite_note-canuni-16) Full dress uniforms for the Royal Canadian Air Force (/wiki/Royal_Canadian_Air_Force) (RCAF) consists of a blue plume, where the headdress (/wiki/Headdress) allows, an air force light blue tunic, trousers and facings. [15] (#cite_note-inst-15) The RCAF pipe band's full dress uniform is modelled after the uniforms used by Scottish Highland regiments. It includes a feather bonnet (/wiki/Feather_bonnet) ; air force blue doublet, facings, and pipings; RCAF tartan (/wiki/Tartan) kilt (/wiki/Kilt) ; and blue garters (/wiki/Garter_(stockings)) . Air force full dress is authorized only for pipers and drummers. The full dress uniform for the Royal Canadian Navy (/wiki/Royal_Canadian_Navy) includes a dark navy blue tunic, trousers, and white facings. [15] (#cite_note-inst-15) However, full dress in the Royal Canadian Navy is no longer issued. Regulations for the wear of full dress are contained in the Canadian Forces publication Canadian Forces Dress Instructions , under No. 1B Ceremonial Dress. [17] (#cite_note-17) Amendments to dress regulations are issued through the office of the Vice Chief of the Defence Staff (VCDS), initially in the form of a CANFORGEN (Canadian Forces General) message, which is placed in the dress manual until an official publication amendment can be promulgated. Dress regulations may also be amplified, interpreted, or amended by the commanders of formations and units (depending on the commander's authority) through the issuing of Standing Orders (SOs), Ship's Standing Orders (SSO), Routine Orders (ROs), and Standard Operating Procedures (SOPs). This may include amplification where the regulations are unclear or are not mandatory; amendments or reversal of some existing regulations for special occasions or events; or the promulgation of regulations regarding the wear of traditional regimental articles (such as kilts). Royal Military College of Canada [ edit ] Band (/wiki/Royal_Military_College_of_Canada_Bands) members of the Royal Military College of Canada (/wiki/Royal_Military_College_of_Canada) in full dress. The full dress uniform for an officer cadet (/wiki/Officer_cadet) of the Royal Military College of Canada (/wiki/Royal_Military_College_of_Canada) is similar to the universal full dress uniform of the Canadian Army, with minor variation. [16] (#cite_note-canuni-16) The full dress uniform used by the Royal Military College has remained essentially the same since the institution's founding in 1876, although the pillbox hat (/wiki/Pillbox_hat) has replaced the shako (/wiki/Shako) . The pith helmet (/wiki/Pith_helmet) remains in use for ceremonial parade positions only. Non-military organisations [ edit ] Canadian Cadet Organisations [ edit ] The youth cadet programs (/wiki/Canadian_Cadet_Organizations) in Canada, the Royal Canadian Army Cadets (/wiki/Royal_Canadian_Army_Cadets) , Royal Canadian Sea Cadets (/wiki/Royal_Canadian_Sea_Cadets) and the Royal Canadian Air Cadets (/wiki/Royal_Canadian_Air_Cadets) each maintain their own dress uniforms. Youth-based Canadian cadet organisations are sponsored by the Canadian Armed Forces, with uniforms provided free of charge and funded by the Department of National Defence (/wiki/Department_of_National_Defence_(Canada)) . Full dress uniforms worn by cadets are modeled after the organisation's sponsoring service branch. Royal Canadian Mounted Police [ edit ] The modern dress uniform of the Royal Canadian Mounted Police (/wiki/Royal_Canadian_Mounted_Police) is closely based on the everyday uniforms used by the predecessor North-West Mounted Police (/wiki/North-West_Mounted_Police) in the late nineteenth century. It features the Red Serge (/wiki/Red_Serge) , a scarlet British-style military pattern tunic, complete with a high-neck collar and dark blue breeches (/wiki/Breeches) with yellow stripes derived from British and Canadian cavalry uniforms of the same era, and usually a campaign hat (/wiki/Campaign_hat) (or " stetson (/wiki/Stetson) ") and brown riding boots (/wiki/Riding_boots) . Chile [ edit ] Chilean Air Force [ edit ] The full dress uniform of the Chilean Air Force (/wiki/Chilean_Air_Force) since 2001 has been a medium-blue tunic and trousers, worn with a peaked visor cap. For parade dress, officers additionally wear a sword belt. Chilean Army [ edit ] Though full dress uniform in the Chilean Army (/wiki/Chilean_Army) typically is feldgrau (/wiki/Feldgrau) , some units wear more colorful uniforms; here, a ceremonial cavalry unit wears a dress uniform based on an early twentieth-century uniform of German dragoons (/wiki/Dragoons) . The usual full dress uniform of the Chilean Army (/wiki/Chilean_Army) is based on twentieth-century German feldgrau (/wiki/Feldgrau) uniforms; however, several units wear more colorful full dress uniforms. Cadets of the military academy "Bernardo O'Higgins Riquelme" wear a Prussian blue (/wiki/Prussian_blue) uniform with Pickelhaube (/wiki/Pickelhaube) , based on the uniform worn by the Wilhelmine (/wiki/Wilhelm_II,_German_Emperor) foot guard regiments (/wiki/Guards_Corps_(German_Empire)) . Some military units, including the Chacabuco and Rancagua regiments, wear a blue uniform from the War of the Pacific during parades as full dress, with kepis (/wiki/Kepi) as headdress. The Buin regiment (2nd Army division in the Santiago Metropolitan region) has reintroduced the infantry regimental uniform of the Chilean War of Independence (/wiki/Chilean_War_of_Independence) , having been formed in December 1810 as the 1st Infantry Regiment "Chilean Grenadiers", the original unit of the Chilean Army. The 1st Cavalry Regiment and the Krupp Artillery Battery of the 1st Artillery Regiment, both ceremonial units of the Army, have since 2012 worn the early twentieth-century Prussian-style full dress uniforms of the Army's cavalry and artillery branches. Chilean Navy [ edit ] The Chilean naval (/wiki/Chilean_Navy) officer's dress uniform is navy-blue with a peaked hat, sword strap (for petty officers, colour escorts and cadets, only during parades and ceremonies), navy-blue trousers, and black boots. The enlisted uniform (for sailors) evinces a mix of Prussian and British influences, having a sailor cap with the dress) while the Marine enlisted and NCO uniform is a dark-blue naval rig (/wiki/Sailor_suit) with trousers and a belt plus a peaked cap. The dress uniform of the naval academy "Arturo Prat" is also blue with trousers, but with headdress similar to that worn by Prat and the crew of the Esmeralda during the Battle of Iquique (/wiki/Battle_of_Iquique) in 1879. The headdress worn is the peaked cap. France [ edit ] See also: Military uniform § France (/wiki/Military_uniform#France) As with many European countries, the French military used in the 19th and early 20th centuries many traditional and heavily decorated dress uniforms. Since World War II (/wiki/World_War_II) , they are not in common use and are usually restricted to special units in the French Army (/wiki/French_Army) and National Gendarmerie (/wiki/National_Gendarmerie) . The Air and Space Force (/wiki/French_Air_and_Space_Force) and the Navy (/wiki/French_Navy) do not issue full dress uniforms, but for special ceremonies, such as changes of command, military personnel should add swords or daggers and full medals (/wiki/Medal) to their service uniform. [18] (#cite_note-18) [19] (#cite_note-19) In the armed forces, only the Republican Guard (/wiki/Republican_Guard_(France)) plus certain bands and military academies have a complete full dress ( grande tenue ) uniform issued to all personnel. French Army [ edit ] Several units, such as the Troupes de Marine, are permitted to wear more decorated variants of their service dress (/wiki/Service_dress_uniform) as their full dress uniform. Units of the Chasseurs Alpins (/wiki/Chasseurs_Alpins) , French Foreign Legion (/wiki/French_Foreign_Legion) , Troupes de Marine (/wiki/Troupes_de_marine) , 1st Spahi Regiment (/wiki/1st_Spahi_Regiment) and Tirailleurs (/wiki/Tirailleur) are permitted to wear, in special circumstances such as military parades (/wiki/Military_parade) , a variant of the service or combat uniform which includes items of historic ceremonial dress such as headresses, fringed epaulettes, cloaks, waist sashes etc. This is called "Tradition Uniform". [20] (#cite_note-20) Personnel of units which were recipients of state orders of military honor include in the "Tradition Uniform" the fourragère (/wiki/Fourrag%C3%A8re) of the orders received. Headdress worn with such is the kepi (/wiki/Kepi) . Bands of the French Army are permitted to wear special uniforms depending on circumstances. On representation duty, they often wear a 19th c.-style full dress uniform dating from either the Napoleonic or Third Republic eras. Military schools [ edit ] Military schools (/wiki/Military_academy) of the French Army, including the école spéciale militaire de Saint-Cyr (/wiki/%C3%89cole_sp%C3%A9ciale_militaire_de_Saint-Cyr) , the école militaire interarmes (/wiki/%C3%89cole_militaire_interarmes) and the école nationale des sous-officiers d'active, have full dress uniforms dating back to the 19th century worn by both students and staff. The ESMSC has the shako (/wiki/Shako) while the two other schools have the kepi. In addition to the military schools, the École Polytechnique (/wiki/%C3%89cole_polytechnique) also maintains 19th century military-styled full dress uniforms. Founded as a military academy (/wiki/Military_academy) , the institution was transformed into a state-sponsored civilian post-secondary school (/wiki/Tertiary_education) in 1970, although it is still operated by the French Ministry of Defence (/wiki/Ministry_of_Armed_Forces_(France)) . It has the bicorne (/wiki/Bicorne) as headdress. National Gendarmerie [ edit ] French Republican Guard infantry in full dress uniform. The Republican Guard (/wiki/Republican_Guard_(France)) of the National Gendarmerie is the last unit to wear full dress uniform as service uniform, as guard of honour (/wiki/Guard_of_honour) detachments are required to wear it while on duty. The cavalry regiment has a 19th-century dragoon (/wiki/Dragoon) uniform, with metal helmet and white riding trousers, while the infantry regiments have a high-collared traditional gendarmerie uniform with the shako. The officer cadets and the staff of école des officiers de la gendarmerie nationale (/wiki/%C3%89cole_des_officiers_de_la_gendarmerie_nationale) also wear uniforms whose styling dates back to the 19th century. Indonesia [ edit ] Further information: Indonesian National Armed Forces § Uniforms (/wiki/Indonesian_National_Armed_Forces#Uniforms) Former Indonesian Army (/wiki/Indonesian_Army) general Gatot Nurmantyo (/wiki/Gatot_Nurmantyo) dressed in PDU I, the Indonesian Army (/wiki/Indonesian_Army) 's equivalent to full dress uniform The Indonesian National Armed Forces (/wiki/Indonesian_National_Armed_Forces) , Indonesian National Police (/wiki/Indonesian_National_Police) , and other uniformed institutions of the country have their own types of Dress uniforms known as "PDU", an abbreviation from Pakaian Dinas Upacara literally meaning "ceremonial uniform" in Indonesian (/wiki/Indonesian_language) ; worn during formal occasions and when attending ceremonies. The Dress uniform (PDU) of the National Armed Forces consists of several categories which are: PDU I - ( Service medals (/wiki/Service_medal) and brevets (/wiki/Brevet_(military)) attached) PDU IA - ( Order decorations (/wiki/Orders,_decorations,_and_medals_of_Indonesia#Stars_of_the_Republic_of_Indonesia) attached and honorary sash (/wiki/Sash#Honorific_orders) worn over for those who are entitled to wear it) PDU II - ( Mess dress uniform (/wiki/Mess_dress_uniform#Indonesia) ) PDU IIA - (Mess dress uniform with order decorations attached) PDU III - ( Service ribbons (/wiki/Service_ribbons) attached) PDU IV - (Short sleeved, with no necktie (/wiki/Necktie) worn). [21] (#cite_note-21) Each uniform category is worn for different purposes and for certain occasions. The "PDU I" and "PDU IA" are regarded as "full dress uniforms" which are worn for formal state occasions and when attending ceremonial events of high significance. The headdress worn for this uniform is a peaked cap for men and a crusher cap for women, and for officers from special forces, as well as the Military Police, may wear their respective berets. MPs are also entitled to helmets when in full dress. When wearing the Mess dress uniform, no headdress is worn. The "PDU III" uniform is worn during receptions and/or during the welcoming ceremony of a visiting high ranking foreign guest ( head of state (/wiki/Head_of_state) or head of government). While the "PDU IV" uniform is worn for occasions such as: Change of Command (/wiki/Change_of_Command) ceremonies, attending a passing out parade (/wiki/Passing_out_parade) , and worn by military judges (/wiki/Military_justice) in the court. [22] (#cite_note-22) The mess dress uniform is basically the same for the three branches of the armed forces. For male Indonesian Navy (/wiki/Indonesian_Navy) officers wearing the full dress uniform ("PDUs" I and IA), will always carry his dress sabre (/wiki/Sabre) wherever he goes, female personnel and officers in the other hand would carry her issued dress uniform purse (/wiki/Handbag) except for those in command posts which are also entitled to sabres. Enlisted ratings of the Indonesian Navy (except those in the Marine Corps and Denjaka, which wears the purple beret and special forces operators of KOPASKA (/wiki/KOPASKA) that wear the maroon beret) wear Japanese style dixie caps with the full dress, until 2021 the US design was worn. The new styled cap is modeled after the Japanese custom in the Maritime Self-Defense Force, in turn the design used by many European navies. For ceremonial parades, a variant known as Pakaian Dinas Parade (PDP, Parade Full Dress) is worn by parade commanders. However PDP can also be a variant of the combat dress uniform pattern. The parade commander wears a M1 or PASGT helmet instead of the normal peaked cap. Israel [ edit ] Each arm of the Israeli Defence Force (/wiki/Israeli_Defence_Force) (IDF) ground forces (/wiki/GOC_Army_Headquarters) , Navy (/wiki/Israeli_Navy) and Air Force (/wiki/Israeli_Air_Force) has its own dress uniform, with separate versions for summer and winter. These are similar in style to civilian business dress suits, or to the service dress uniforms worn by the British forces. The dress uniform includes a blazer-type (/wiki/Blazer) jacket, worn with a white shirt, and a tie. The ground forces uniform is dark green, with a single-breasted, three-buttoned jacket and tie of the same colour. Headgear worn is the beret. The air force uniform is of the same design, but medium blue. The naval uniform has a darker blue, double-breasted, six-buttoned jacket, with gold-coloured rank insignia on the cuffs, worn with the peaked cap. [23] (#cite_note-23) In 2016, the IDF Chief of General Staff (/wiki/Chief_of_General_Staff_(Israel)) Gadi Eizenkot (/wiki/Gadi_Eizenkot) announced that all officers ranked Tat Aluf (/wiki/Tat_Aluf) ( brigadier general (/wiki/Brigadier_general) ) as well as certain lower ranked officers would wear the Madei Srad dress uniforms in official ceremonies on Yom HaShoah (/wiki/Yom_HaShoah) , Yom Hazikaron (/wiki/Yom_Hazikaron) and Yom Ha'atzmaut (/wiki/Yom_Ha%27atzmaut) . [24] (#cite_note-24) Because of the small number of uniforms required they are tailor made (/wiki/Tailor) for the specific officer. Prior to 2016, the dress uniform, the Madei Srad was only worn abroad, either by a military attaché (/wiki/Military_attach%C3%A9) or by senior officers on official state visits (/wiki/State_visit) . Russia [ edit ] Further information: Uniforms of the Russian Armed Forces (/wiki/Uniforms_of_the_Russian_Armed_Forces) Russian Ground Forces (/wiki/Russian_Ground_Forces) officers during the 2019 Moscow Victory Day Parade (/wiki/2019_Moscow_Victory_Day_Parade) in full dress uniform. The uniforms of the Russian Armed Forces (/wiki/Russian_Armed_Forces) were inherited from the Soviet Armed Forces (/wiki/Soviet_Armed_Forces) and modified throughout the years. Some features of modern full dress uniform worn by both army and navy personnel date from those of the final Czarist period, prior to 1917. Most notably these include the blue-green shade of the modern army officer's parade and walking out uniform; the dark blue and white dress uniform worn by sailors; and the ceremonial dress of the Kremlin Regiment. Sweden [ edit ] See also: Mess dress uniform § Full mess dress (/wiki/Mess_dress_uniform#Full_mess_dress) Various forms of full dress uniforms were used by all regiments of the Swedish Armed Forces (/wiki/Swedish_Armed_Forces) for ceremonial purposes until the 1960s, when they were generally discontinued, with the exception of the Svea Life Guards (/wiki/Svea_Life_Guards) and the Life Guard Dragoons (/wiki/Life_Guard_Dragoons_(Sweden)) still retaining colourful full dress uniforms of 19th century origin for ceremonial use. The remaining parts of the branches tend to apply a variant of the mess dress uniform (/wiki/Mess_dress_uniform) called "full mess uniform" for formal wear purposes. White spats (/wiki/Spats_(footwear)) and belts may also be added to their service dress uniforms for parades or certain ceremonial purposes. Swedish Army [ edit ] Grenadiers of the Swedish Life Guards (/wiki/Life_Guards_(Sweden)) in full dress uniform There are three versions of full dress uniforms in use in the Swedish Army (/wiki/Swedish_Army) as of the present day, all belonging to the Life Guards (/wiki/Life_Guards_(Sweden)) . The infantry wears the dark blue uniform of the Svea Life Guards (1st Life Guards) with yellow collar, cuffs and piping which dates back to 1886. The Swedish Army Band (/wiki/Royal_Swedish_Army_Band) wears the uniform of Göta Life Guards (2nd Life Guards), with red collar, cuffs and piping. The headdress of the infantry is mainly the pickelhaube typed helmet in black leather from 1887. On state ceremonies, a white buffalo hair plume is added. Bearskin hats (/wiki/Bearskin_hat) dating from 1823 are still in use on special occasions. The cavalry, including the Swedish Cavalry Band (/wiki/Life_Guards%27_Dragoon_Music_Corps) , wear the royal blue (/wiki/Royal_blue) uniform of the Life Guard Dragoons (1st Cavalry) from 1895. Officers have a somewhat lighter colour on their full dress uniform compared to the troopers. The pickelhaube type helmet is made of nickel-plated steel with brass (/wiki/Brass) details and dates back to 1879. Changes were made in 1900 which transformed the helmet into a cuirassier style helmet. In 1928 with the amalgamation of the 1st and 2nd Cavalry Regiments, a helm wreath was added, together with a golden laurel wreath. Officers' gold chin straps with lion "mascarons" from the Life Regiment Dragoons (/wiki/Life_Regiment_Dragoons) (2nd Cavalry) were also authorised for the new composite regiment. On modern state occasions officers wear white buffalo hair plume while troopers wear a horse hair plumes of the same colour. Swedish Navy [ edit ] Two officers in full dress on the royal barge Vasaorden . In the Swedish Navy (/wiki/Swedish_Navy) , full dress is restricted to naval officers serving on the Vasaorden In the Swedish Navy (/wiki/Swedish_Navy) , only one ceremonial uniform is still in use. It is restricted to naval officers serving on the royal barge "Vasaorden" (Order of Vasa); a ship used only on rare ceremonial occasions. The uniform dates back to 1878. The two officers serving wear the tricorne. United Kingdom [ edit ] Royal Navy [ edit ] Further information: Uniforms of the Royal Navy (/wiki/Uniforms_of_the_Royal_Navy) Vice Admiral (/wiki/Vice_Admiral) Philip Watson (/wiki/Philip_Watson) in ceremonial day dress. Introduced in 1960, ceremonial day dress is a variant of the Royal Navy (/wiki/Royal_Navy) 's full dress uniform that was taken out of service in 1956. Since the mid-eighteenth century, when naval uniforms were introduced, flag officers had different full-dress and undress versions, the latter being worn from day to day, the former only for formal occasions. By the late nineteenth century, an officer's full dress uniform consisted of a navy double-breasted tailcoat with white facings edged in gold (on the collar and cuff-slashes), gold lace (indicating rank) on the cuffs, epaulettes, sword and sword-belt, worn with gold-laced trousers (except for sublieutenants (/wiki/Sublieutenant) and warrant officers (/wiki/Warrant_officers) ) and a cocked hat. This order of uniform lasted through the first half of the twentieth century, being placed 'in abeyance' at the onset of the Second World War, and was worn by Prince Philip at the coronation of Elizabeth II (/wiki/Coronation_of_Elizabeth_II) . In 1960, full dress uniform was reintroduced in the form of ceremonial day dress (/wiki/Royal_Navy_uniform#Ceremonial_Day_Dress) . Worn only by limited categories of senior officers, this is very similar to the old full dress, but without fringed epaulettes or cuff slashes, and worn with a peaked cap. In tropical climates, a single-breasted white tunic, with two patch pockets, five buttons down the front, worn with the peaked cap, white trousers, white shoes, shoulderboards (/wiki/Shoulderboard) and sword and sword belt is worn by commissioned officers. Before 1939, this was worn with a white tropical helmet; abolished in 1949, for full dress purposes. Since 1995 this is only regularly issued to officers of the rank of captain and above, all other officers being issued a white bush jacket (/wiki/Bush_jacket) , but are issued this uniform from stores if ordered to by command. There is also a version for wear by warrant officers and petty officers. It is similar to that worn by commissioned officers and is worn with the same cap, trousers and shoes, but the tunic has only four buttons down the front, substantive rate badges, and no shoulderboards. When armed with rifle, this is worn with anklets and white web belt and black boots. This is worn only on extremely formal occasions, usually by guards of honour (/wiki/Guards_of_honour) , at the order of command. Warrant officers first class wear the appropriate sword and sword belt as well. Royal Marines [ edit ] Further information: Uniforms of the Royal Marines (/wiki/Uniforms_of_the_Royal_Marines) The Band of Her Majesty's Royal Marines in full dress uniform (2015), led by the Drum Major (centre) and Director of Music (right) In the Royal Marines (/wiki/Royal_Marines) , Number 1A dress or "blues" is generally worn by units undertaking ceremonial duties. [25] (#cite_note-25) The Number 1 Full Dress is nowadays only worn by the Royal Marines Band Service (/wiki/Royal_Marines_Band_Service) . The full dress dates from 1923, when the Royal Marine Light Infantry (/wiki/History_of_the_Royal_Marines#Crimean_War_and_beyond) and the Royal Marine Artillery (/wiki/History_of_the_Royal_Marines#Nineteenth_century) merged into what became the Corps of Royal Marines, and consists of a royal blue single-breasted tunic with red facings (with gold piping) and yellow cuff slashes. It is worn with royal blue trousers with a scarlet stripe and the Wolseley helmet (/wiki/Pith_helmet#Wolseley_pattern) with a golden ball ornament on top of the helmet, inherited from the Royal Marine Artillery. Band officers (directors of music) wear gold shoulder cords with silver-embroidered rank badges as well as a crimson waist sash, similar to the waist sash worn by the British Army. The uniform of the drum major features hussar (/wiki/Hussar) -style braiding across the front of the tunic. Buglers wear dress cords, which were first introduced to the buglers branch in 1935 for London duties. [26] (#cite_note-chapter40-26) British Army [ edit ] Further information: Uniforms of the British Army (/wiki/Uniforms_of_the_British_Army) Most of the various uniforms worn by the British Army (/wiki/British_Army_Uniforms) today originate in former combat uniforms. At the start of the 19th century, British Army Regiments of Foot (/wiki/Regiment_of_Foot) , trained to fight in the manner dictated by a weapon (the musket (/wiki/Musket) ) which demanded close proximity to the target, were not concerned with camouflage, and wore red coats (scarlet for officers and sergeants). Rifle regiments, fighting as skirmishers (/wiki/Skirmishers) , and equipped with rifles (/wiki/Rifle) , were more concerned with concealment however, and wore dark green uniforms. Light Infantry (/wiki/Light_Infantry) regiments were also trained as skirmishers but wore red uniforms with green shakos. Whereas the infantry generally wore polished brass buttons (/wiki/Button) and white carrying equipment, the Rifles wore black. Infantry uniforms of the British Army (/wiki/British_Army) , from 1750 to 1835. Full dress uniforms in the British Army originate from former combat uniforms. Prior to the outbreak of World War I full dress uniforms were universal issue for all regiments of the British Army when on "home service" in Britain itself. Line infantry and Foot Guards, dragoons, Life Guards and Royal Engineers (/wiki/Royal_Engineers) all wore scarlet tunics. [27] (#cite_note-27) The Royal Regiment of Artillery (/wiki/Royal_Regiment_of_Artillery) , hussars (/wiki/Hussar) , all but one lancer (/wiki/Lancer) regiment, and all support corps wore dark blue uniforms. Only Rifle regiments wore green. Full dress varied greatly in detail, according to the arm of service or in many cases the individual regiment. [28] (#cite_note-28) Reserve (/wiki/Army_Reserve_(United_Kingdom)) units were for the most part distinguished by having silver (rather than gold-coloured) lace, buttons and accoutrements in full dress. From the Crimean War (/wiki/Crimean_War) on, a narrow red stripe (piping) down the outside of each trouser leg was common to all red coated infantry units. Cavalry however wore stripes of regimental colour (white, yellow, blue/grey etc.) on their riding breeches. Scottish Highland regiments (/wiki/Category:Highland_regiments) did not wear trousers, favouring the kilt, and Scottish Lowland regiments adopted tartan trews (/wiki/Trews) . All Scottish regiments (/wiki/Scottish_regiment) wore doublets (/wiki/Doublet_(clothing)) of distinctive cut instead of the tunics of English, Irish and Welsh units. Full dress headwear varied (both from regiment to regiment, and over time as influenced by military fashion): bearskins were worn by the Foot Guards, the 2nd Dragoons (Royal Scots Greys) (/wiki/2nd_Dragoons_(Royal_Scots_Greys)) and (in a different form) by Fusiliers. Plumed helmets were worn by the Dragoons (except 2nd), Dragoon Guards and the Household Cavalry. Hussars wore their distinctive busby (/wiki/Busby_(military_headdress)) , which also came to be adopted by the Royal Artillery, the Royal Engineers and certain other Corps; it was also worn in a different form by Rifle regiments. The Lancers had their chapka (/wiki/Chapka) . Infantry of the line often wore shakos (later supplanted by the 'home service helmet'), as did others; though Scots and Irish regiments tended to have their own distinctive full-dress headwear. General officers and staff officers usually wore plumed cocked hats (/wiki/Cocked_hat) in full dress, as did regimental staff officers and those of some support services. In hotter climates, for all of the above, a white pith helmet (/wiki/Pith_helmet) was often substituted. The rise of rifles (/wiki/Rifle) and smokeless powder (/wiki/Smokeless_powder) led to the adoption of khaki (/wiki/Khaki) uniforms in the field, with blue, scarlet, and rifle green tunics relegated to ceremonial/parade use. Beginning with the Second Anglo-Afghan War (/wiki/Second_Anglo-Afghan_War) of 1878, the British Army began adopting light khaki (/wiki/Khaki) uniforms for Tropical (/wiki/Tropical) service that was first introduced in 1848 with the Corps of Guides (/wiki/Corps_of_Guides_(India)) in India. [29] (#cite_note-29) This innovation arose from experience fighting irregular forces in India, for example on the Indian North-West Frontier and during the Indian Mutiny (/wiki/Indian_Mutiny) , and in Africa during the Anglo-Zulu War (/wiki/Anglo-Zulu_War) , as well as the invention of smokeless gunpowder (/wiki/Smokeless_gunpowder) and the increasing effectiveness and usage of rifles. In 1902 a darker shade of Service Dress (/wiki/Service_Dress_(British_Army)) (SD) was adopted for field and ordinary use in Britain itself. The scarlet, blue and rifle green uniforms were retained for wear as full dress on parade and "walking-out dress" when off duty and out of barracks. As worn between 1902 and 1914 by all non-commissioned ranks, walking-out dress was essentially the same as review order, except that a peaked cap or glengarry was worn instead of the full dress headdress and overalls (strapped trousers) were substituted for cavalry breeches. [30] (#cite_note-30) When khaki web carrying equipment was introduced, the earlier, white or black leather carrying equipment was retained for wear with the dress uniform. As with the earlier uniforms, the officers' uniforms differed in quality and detail from those worn by the Other Ranks (/wiki/Other_ranks_(UK)) . Officers purchased their own dress uniforms from regimentally approved tailors (/wiki/Tailor) while other ranks were issued all orders of dress from government stocks. With the outbreak of World War I in August 1914 all full dress and other coloured uniforms ceased to be worn by the British Army. After 1919 they were restored to the Household Cavalry (/wiki/Household_Cavalry) and Foot Guard for ceremonial purposes but not to the bulk of the army. Officers were authorised to wear full dress for certain special occasions such as Court levees (formal presentations to the Monarch) and it was customary to wear these uniforms at social functions such as weddings. By 1928 bands were wearing full dress on occasions where they were not parading with the remainder of the regiment (who had only khaki service dress). The pre-1914 dress uniforms were still held in store and occasionally reappeared for historic displays. However, there was no serious attempt to make them general issue again, primarily for reasons of expense. When (khaki) Battle Dress (BD) uniforms, which had a short blouse instead of a tunic, were adopted immediately before the Second World War, the older khaki Service Dress became a smart uniform for wear on the streets, and on moderately formal occasions. After World War II the coloured, full dress uniforms were again reintroduced for ceremonial occasions by the Brigade of Guards (/wiki/Brigade_of_Guards) and to a limited extent by regimental bands. Officers (and later senior non-commissioned officers) resumed wearing mess uniforms (/wiki/Mess_uniform) in traditional colours from about 1956 on. These are still worn, although regimental amalgamations have led to numerous changes from the pre-war models. Scottish regiments (/wiki/Scottish_regiment) retain a number of historical elements in their uniform, including their kilts (/wiki/Kilt) , sporrans (/wiki/Sporran) , and doublets (/wiki/Doublet_(clothing)) With limited exceptions, the unique regimental full dress uniforms finally disappeared after 1939; today they are only generally worn, on ceremonial occasions, by the Bands and Corps of Drums (/wiki/Corps_of_Drums) , by certain representatives on parade (e.g. some regimental Pioneers (/wiki/Pioneer_Sergeant) , or those forming a guard of honour) and by the regiments of the Household Division (/wiki/Household_Division) . In most regiments they were replaced by a generic dark blue uniform known as No 1 Dress. This dated back to plain "patrol" uniforms worn by officers before 1914 as an informal "undress" uniform. An early version had been worn by some units in the 1937 coronation of King George VI and Queen Elizabeth (/wiki/Coronation_of_King_George_VI_and_Queen_Elizabeth) but had not been made general issue at the time. In the form adopted after World War II, most regiments were distinguished only by coloured piping on the shoulder straps, coloured hat bands, buttons and badges. However Scottish regiments retained their kilts or trews as well as the distinctive doublets (in "piper green" or dark blue) of the former scarlet uniform. Rifles regiments had dark green uniforms and cavalry retained a number of special features such as the crimson trousers of the 11th Hussars (/wiki/11th_Hussars) or the quartered caps of lancer regiments. A white, lightweight tunic (No 3 Dress) was also authorised for use in the tropics (/wiki/Tropics) , or during the summer months in warmer temperate climates (such as Bermuda (/wiki/Bermuda_Garrison) ). The blue "home service" helmets were not worn as part of the No 1 dress uniform, except by members of some bands or corps of drums which retained their old full dress uniforms, at regimental expense. English Rifle regiments were amalgamated into the Royal Green Jackets (/wiki/Royal_Green_Jackets) , which continued to wear a dark green dress uniform, and black buttons and belts. Changes have brought the Royal Green Jackets (/wiki/Royal_Green_Jackets) and The Light Infantry (/wiki/The_Light_Infantry) together into a single regiment The Rifles (/wiki/The_Rifles) , which continues to wear dark green. The Waterloo Band of The Rifles (/wiki/The_Rifles) in full dress. The Rifles continue to use rifle green (/wiki/Rifle_green) in their full dress uniform. Berets were introduced initially into the Royal Tank Corps (/wiki/Royal_Tank_Corps) in the First World War and their use became more widespread in the British Army during and after the Second World War to replace side caps for wear with combat uniforms when protective headgear was not being worn. Originally, khaki was the standard colour for all units, but specialist units adopted coloured berets to distinguish themselves. For example, airborne forces (/wiki/Airborne_forces) adopted a maroon (/wiki/Maroon_(color)) . This has since been adopted by many other parachute units around the world. The Commandos (/wiki/British_Commandos) adopted a green beret (/wiki/Green_beret) . The Special Air Service (/wiki/Special_Air_Service) (SAS) initially adopted a white beret quickly changing this to a beige (/wiki/Beige) or sand coloured one. From 1944 they wore the Maroon airborne forces beret but the beige beret was re-adopted following the re-formation of the Regular SAS in Malaya. Dark blue berets are worn by those units not authorised to use a distinctively coloured beret or other headdress. A peaked cap, with a coloured hat band, is intended to be worn with the No 1 Dress uniform, berets are the most common form of headdress seen with other orders of dress and are worn in No1 and 2 dress by some Regiments and Corps. The blue or green No 1 Dress was not universally adopted after its initial introduction in 1947, khaki No 2 dress being the most usual order of dress for parades and formal occasions. The reason was mainly one of economy, [31] (#cite_note-31) although it was sometimes criticised as being too similar to police and other civilian uniforms. [32] (#cite_note-32) Officer cadets at the Royal Military Academy Sandhurst (/wiki/Royal_Military_Academy_Sandhurst) in full dress. As noted above, the practice of issuing other ranks in line regiments with full sets of both service dress and dress uniforms effectively ended in 1914 and was never completely returned to. Today full dress or No 1 Dress uniforms are only held in limited quantities as common stock, and issued only to detachments for special ceremonial occasions. Practices do however vary between units and historic items of uniform are more likely to appear where tradition is particularly strong. As an example, the Royal Military Academy Sandhurst (/wiki/Royal_Military_Academy_Sandhurst) wore scarlet and blue "review order" uniforms until World War I, substituted khaki service dress for parade from 1919 to 1939 and now holds dark blue No 1 dress uniforms for the use of its cadets. Until 1995 the Royal Military Police (/wiki/Royal_Military_Police) retained "blues" for their now disbanded Mounted Troop. [33] (#cite_note-33) Royal Air Force [ edit ] See also: Uniforms of the Royal Air Force (/wiki/Uniforms_of_the_Royal_Air_Force) Air Vice-Marshal (/wiki/Air_Vice-Marshal) Philip Game (/wiki/Philip_Game) in full dress, c. 1930. At the time, the Royal Air Force (/wiki/Royal_Air_Force) 's full dress included headgear that resembled helmets used in World War I (/wiki/World_War_I) . Historically, the Royal Air Force (/wiki/Royal_Air_Force) regulations permitted the wearing of a full dress uniform in both home and warm-weather variants. Although the home wear version of full dress is no longer worn (except in a modified form by RAF bandsmen), [34] (#cite_note-34) the tropical full ceremonial dress continues to be authorised. The temperate full dress uniform was introduced in April 1920. It consisted of a single-breasted jacket in blue-grey with a stand-up collar. Rank was indicated in gold braid on the lower sleeve and white gloves were worn. As with the British Army after 1914, full dress was not general issue during the inter-War period, but was authorized for wear by specific categories such as bandsmen and commissioned officers. The latter generally wore full dress only for infrequent occasions such as attendance at court levees (/wiki/Levees) and social functions such as weddings. Military attaches and royal aides de camp (/wiki/Aides_de_camp) were amongst the few serving officers who might have regular occasions to wear full dress. Initially the full dress uniform was worn with the service dress cap. However, in 1921 a new form of head-dress was introduced. It was designed to resemble the original flying helmet and it consisted of a leather skull cap trimmed with black rabbit fur. The helmet also featured an ostrich feather plume which was connected to an RAF badge. This helmet was never popular and junior officers were eventually permitted to wear the service dress hat on full dress occasions. Group Captain (/wiki/Group_Captain) the Duke of York (later King George VI (/wiki/George_VI_of_the_United_Kingdom) ) wore RAF full dress at his wedding to Lady Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon (/wiki/Elizabeth_Bowes-Lyon) in 1923. The Duke wore or carried the full dress headgear rather than the service dress cap. Today the blue-grey full dress uniform is only worn by RAF bandsmen. It is referred to as Number 9 Service Dress (/wiki/Uniforms_of_the_Royal_Air_Force#Full_dress) . Civilian organisations [ edit ] Further information: Police uniforms and equipment in the United Kingdom § Uniform (/wiki/Police_uniforms_and_equipment_in_the_United_Kingdom#Uniform) The formal uniforms used by police forces were until the late 20th century mostly the same as the uniforms worn on ordinary duties but sometimes with various embellishments. The introduction of newer uniforms deliberately designed as workwear has left the older styles mainly used for ceremonial or formal purposes. The general formal style is a black jacket and trousers with a white shirt and a custodian helmet (/wiki/Custodian_helmet) or peaked cap. A particular variation is that used by mounted police in Merseyside (/wiki/Merseyside_Police#Mounted_Section) which can be observed when they escort the winner of the annual Grand National (/wiki/Grand_National) horse race at Aintree; this consists of the traditional Custodian helmet with an added white plume and silvered chinstrap; along with the style of tunic it bears more resemblance to a late 19th/early 20th century police uniform. United States [ edit ] U.S. Air Force [ edit ] Further information: Uniforms of the United States Air Force (/wiki/Uniforms_of_the_United_States_Air_Force) In the mid-1980s, "ceremonial blue" uniform and "ceremonial white" uniform were introduced in the United States Air Force (/wiki/United_States_Air_Force) . The ceremonial uniforms were discontinued by 1 August 1994 and 1 March 1993 respectively. [35] (#cite_note-35) However, the United States Air Force Honor Guard are authorized to wear a ceremonial variant of the Air Force's service uniform. U.S. Army [ edit ] Further information: Uniforms of the United States Army (/wiki/Uniforms_of_the_United_States_Army) Members of the First Troop Philadelphia City Cavalry (/wiki/First_Troop_Philadelphia_City_Cavalry) in ceremonial dress uniform. Prior to the 20th century, the uniforms of the United States Army (/wiki/United_States_Army) were primarily made out of a combination of dark blue wool (for tunics or coats) and light blue (for trousers and breeches). After the adoption of olive drab and khaki uniforms in 1902, the US Army retained blue uniforms as its full dress until 1917. [36] (#cite_note-usarm-36) A modernised and simplified blue dress uniform was introduced in 1937. The blue full dress ceremonial overcoat was reintroduced in January 1929, and saw alterations to its design in 1936 and 1937, before it was suspended from use in 1943. [36] (#cite_note-usarm-36) The overcoat was reauthorized for use by officers in 1947, although it seldom sees use. [36] (#cite_note-usarm-36) The ceremonial overcoat with a white scarf is presently listed as an optional purchase item in the Army's uniform regulations, with general officers, aides-de-camp, and command sergeants major being authorized to wear it in formal ceremonial occasions during cold-weather conditions. [37] (#cite_note-37) In 1956, the Army introduced a blue service dress uniform, based on the full dress blue uniform. [36] (#cite_note-usarm-36) Presently, the Class A Army Service Uniform (/wiki/Army_Service_Uniform) serves as the U.S. Army's equivalent to full dress. [38] (#cite_note-uscg-38) In November 2018, the U.S. Army announced the dress blue service uniform would be replaced by Army Green (/wiki/Pinks_and_greens) service uniforms. [39] (#cite_note-39) The U.S. Army intends to maintain the dress blue uniforms for ceremonial use. [40] (#cite_note-40) The U.S. Army's uniform regulations also define a class of "special ceremonial units," that are authorized to wear distinct ceremonial regimental uniforms for ceremonies and public duties. They include select U.S. Army band and guard units, including the 3rd Infantry Regiment (/wiki/3rd_Infantry_Regiment) 's Commander-in-Chief's Guard, the First Troop Philadelphia City Cavalry (/wiki/First_Troop_Philadelphia_City_Cavalry) , and some National Guard. Additionally, cadets at the United States Military Academy (/wiki/United_States_Military_Academy) wear a cadet grey (/wiki/Cadet_grey) swallow-tailed blouse with white trousers and black shako for parades and drills. U.S. Marine Corps [ edit ] Further information: Uniforms of the United States Marine Corps (/wiki/Uniforms_of_the_United_States_Marine_Corps) The most formal of a Marine's uniforms outside of the elaborate evening dress uniforms of officers and senior enlisted, it is often referred to as "Dress Blues", due to its color (as distinguished from the green and khaki service uniforms), and can be worn in many forms. It is the only uniform of the United States military to use all of the colors of the nation's flag and incorporates button designs which are the oldest military insignia still in use in the United States Armed Forces to this day. Enlisted marines dressed in Blue Dress Uniforms. From left to right: "B", "B", "A", "D", and "C". The various designations used in Dress Blue include: Dress Blue "A" has a long sleeve choker-collar midnight blue outer blouse, white barracks cover, with all medals (/wiki/Awards_and_decorations_of_the_United_States_military) and service ribbons. Enlisted coats have a red trim and more buttons down the middle of the coat than officers. Dress Blue "B" is the same as "A", but service ribbons and marksmanship badges (/wiki/Badges_of_the_United_States_Marine_Corps) are worn instead of medals. Dress Blue "A" (with medals worn) is strictly reserved for official ceremonies, while Dress Blue "B" may be worn on leave or liberty. Dress Blue "C" is the dress blue uniform worn with the long sleeve khaki shirt (without coat). Service ribbons and badges may be worn. Dress Blue "D" is the dress blue uniform worn with the short sleeve khaki shirt (without coat). Service ribbons and badges may be worn All the blue uniforms have the same trousers, cover, and black shoes, with the exception of general officers who wear dark blue trousers in the same color as the coat. Officers, Staff Noncommissioned Officers (/wiki/Staff_Noncommissioned_Officer) , and Noncommissioned Officers (/wiki/Non-commissioned_officer) wear blood stripes (/wiki/Blood_stripe) on their trousers. Blood stripes are 1.25" in width for NCOs and SNCOs, 1.5" for officers, and 2" for general officers. A sword may be worn when the individual is in command of troops in formation—the Mameluke sword (/wiki/Mameluke_sword) for officers, the NCO sword (/wiki/Marine_Noncommissioned_Officers%27_Sword,_1859-Present) for NCOs and SNCOs. When wearing the sword and Dress Blue coat, officers wear the Sam Browne belt (/wiki/Sam_Browne_belt) . For enlisted, the sword is worn with a white waistbelt and brass buckle when wearing the Dress Blue coat. The Marine Corps is the only branch of the United States military which regularly allows NCOs to carry a sword. For enlisted Marines, they earn the right to carry the NCO sword and wear the scarlet blood stripe on their blue trousers when they achieve the rank of Corporal. Dress uniform for the Marine Corps Mounted Color Guard consists of a blue dress coat, white breeches (/wiki/Breeches) , and polished knee-high boots. Members of the United States Marine Corps Band (/wiki/United_States_Marine_Corps_Band) , and the United States Marine Drum and Bugle Corps (/wiki/United_States_Marine_Drum_and_Bugle_Corps) are authorized different dress uniforms, known as Red-Dress (a scarlet blouse with a blue trim). Before 1998, certain ceremonial Marine units, such as the Silent Drill Platoon (/wiki/Silent_Drill_Platoon) , wore a blue/white dress uniform in which white trousers were substituted for blue while performing ceremonial functions. The blue/white version is now an authorized summer uniform for officers, SNCOs, and on certain functions, NCOs. The Marine Corps Mounted Color Guard currently wears the blue dress coat with white riding breeches and polished black knee-high riding boots [41] (#cite_note-41) although in the past they have worn blue riding breeches with the red blood stripe. [42] (#cite_note-42) Another uniform, the obsolete Dress White uniform, was a white version of the standard dress coat and trousers, was authorized only for officers and SNCOs. It resembled the Navy's Officer/CPO dress whites. No blood stripes were authorized, and white shoes were worn. This uniform was superseded by the Blue/White Dress uniform in 2000. U.S. Navy [ edit ] Further information: Uniforms of the United States Navy (/wiki/Uniforms_of_the_United_States_Navy) The Dress White uniform consists of a stand-collar white tunic, white trousers, and white dress shoes. Rank for officers is displayed on shoulder marks (/wiki/Shoulder_marks) for males and on the sleeve cuffs for females, while CPO rank insignia is worn on the collar for both sexes. Service dress white includes service ribbons, whereas full dress white includes service ribbons and medals. This uniform is informally called "Chokers", due to the stand-collar. Enlisted sailors of the United States Navy (/wiki/United_States_Navy) in Full Dress Whites during a retirement ceremony. The Dress Blue uniform consists of black shoes, navy blue (black in appearance) coat and trousers, a white shirt and either a Windsor (/wiki/Windsor_knot) or formal bowtie. As with the white uniforms, only service ribbons are worn with Service Dress Blue, while service ribbons and medals are worn with Full Dress Blue. Depending on the occasion, officers may also wear swords (/wiki/Sword) with either Full Dress White or Blue. Both the white and blue uniforms are worn with the distinctive peaked cap with white cover. Naval enlisted personnel ranked Petty Officer First Class (/wiki/Petty_Officer_First_Class) , E-6, and below also have seasonal uniforms. The dress white and blue uniforms are both of the traditional " sailor suit (/wiki/Sailor_suit) " or crackerjack (/wiki/Cracker_Jack) type. It consists of a pullover shirt, called a jumper (/wiki/Sweater) , with a V-neck going to a square collar flap, a black neckerchief (/wiki/Neckerchief) , and bell-bottomed trousers. The white uniform is worn with a white belt and silver buckle, while the blue uniform features thirteen decorative buttons. U.S. Coast Guard [ edit ] Before 1972, U.S. Coast Guard personnel generally wore the same uniforms as the U.S. Navy but with distinctive Coast Guard insignia, primarily distinctive cap devices for officers and chief petty officers, incorporation of the Coast Guard shield in lieu of line or staff corps insignia for officers, and differentiated uniform buttons on dress uniforms. Members of the United States Coast Guard (/wiki/United_States_Coast_Guard) in Full Dress Blue during a change of command ceremony at Coast Guard Base Kodiak (/wiki/Coast_Guard_Base_Kodiak) . Presently, the U.S. Coast Guard maintains two full dress uniforms, full dress blue, and full dress white. [38] (#cite_note-uscg-38) Full dress blue is worn during change of command ceremonies, parades, and reviews when special honours are being paid, including state visits. [38] (#cite_note-uscg-38) The full dress blue uniforms are similar to the U.S. Coast Guard's service dress blue "Alpha," except that it is worn with a full-size medals instead of ribbons. Additionally, a sword may be prescribed for officers, and a white belt and glove may be required. Full Dress White is worn for similar occasions by officers of the U.S. Coast Guard during the summer, or when in tropical environments. [38] (#cite_note-uscg-38) The Dress White uniform is slightly different depending on the gender; with men wearing a high stand-collared white tunic, white trousers, and white shoes, while women wear a uniform similar to the dress blue uniform but with a white coat and skirt or trousers. Both genders wear shoulder boards rather than sleeve stripes, as well as medals, combination cover, and sword. The uniform is nearly identical to the U.S. Navy's Full Dress Whites, but the buttons and combination cover device are Coast Guard specific. The United States Coast Guard Academy (/wiki/United_States_Coast_Guard_Academy) maintains two different styles of parade dress uniforms. Both variants include a black blouse, with banded collars and double row of buttons, and a white peaked hat. However, Full Dress Blue A, uses white trousers, whereas Full Dress Blue B uses black trousers. Venezuela [ edit ] Within the National Bolivarian Armed Forces of Venezuela (/wiki/National_Bolivarian_Armed_Forces_of_Venezuela) dress uniforms are commonplace within its services. The Presidential Honor Guard Brigade wears dress uniforms similar to those used by the Hussar troop raised by Simon Bolivar in 1816. It is of a red tunic with gold buttons and black pants, belt and a black (formerly brown) busby hat, plus epaulettes worn by officers. The Caracas Battalion of the Ministry of Defence wears a light blue uniform with white buttons, black pants, a belt, boots or black shoes and the red beret while the Daniel O'Leary Battalion of the Army Headquarters wears an identical uniform but with the dark blue beret. The Military Academy of the Bolivarian Army (/wiki/Military_Academy_of_the_Bolivarian_Army) wears a 19th-century-styled Prussian bright blue uniform as the full dress of the Corps of Cadets, with a pickelhaube (/wiki/Pickelhaube) or peaked cap depending on the year level. The former is worn by all officers and the senior and junior year cadets. Full dress uniform by international organisations [ edit ] St John Ambulance [ edit ] Further information: Order of Saint John (chartered 1888) (/wiki/Order_of_Saint_John_(chartered_1888)) Individuals leading a group of St John Ambulance of Malaysia (/wiki/St_John_Ambulance_of_Malaysia) (SJAM) volunteers wearing SJAM's ceremonial uniform. St John Ambulance (/wiki/St_John_Ambulance) is a volunteer group of affiliated organisations in 42 countries, which aims to teach and provide first aid (/wiki/First_aid) , and emergency medical services (/wiki/Emergency_medical_services) . The organisation uses a number of uniforms, including a ceremonial one. The affiliated national organisations do not share a standardized ceremonial uniform, known as formal uniform or dress uniform depending on the country. The uniform of St John Ambulance in Canada (/wiki/St._John_Ambulance_Canada) , England (/wiki/St_John_Ambulance_in_England) , Ireland (/wiki/St_John_Ambulance_Ireland) , and Wales (/wiki/St_John_Ambulance_in_Wales) was derived from the uniforms of London's Metropolitan Police Service (/wiki/Metropolitan_Police_Service) ; using similar jackets and trousers with different buttons, badges, and a cap with a white band and belt-mounted items relevant to first-aid work. Conversely, the ceremonial uniform for St John Ambulance in Malaysia (/wiki/St_John_Ambulance_of_Malaysia) , and St John Singapore (/wiki/St_John_Singapore) uses a white tunic and black trousers; derived from the British Army's warm weather ceremonial uniform. Generally, the organisation's ceremonial uniform is not used for daily medical and first-aid work, with the various national St John Ambulance organisations issuing a variety of occupational uniforms. See also [ edit ] Military uniform (/wiki/Military_uniform) Mess dress uniform (/wiki/Mess_dress_uniform) Service dress uniform (/wiki/Service_dress_uniform) Combat uniform (/wiki/Combat_uniform) Formal wear (/wiki/Formal_wear) Morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) White tie (/wiki/White_tie) Ceremonial dress (/wiki/Ceremonial_dress) Religious clothing (/wiki/Religious_clothing) Folk costume (/wiki/Folk_costume) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Carman, W.Y. (1977). A Dictionary of Military Uniforms . p. 61. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-684-15130-8 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Jouineau, Andre (2008). French Army in 1914 . pp. 7–59. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-2-35250-104-6 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Harrington, Peter (2001). British Army Uniforms in Color . pp. 10–146. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-7643-1302-9 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Becker, Carl (2000). The Kaiser's Army in Color . pp. 11–14. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-7643-1173-5 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Kennedy, Robert W. (2001). Uniforms of Imperial & Soviet Russia . pp. 8–27. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-7643-1320-7 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) James Lucas, "Fighting Troops of the Austro-Hungarian Army 1868-1914, ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-87052-362-7 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-87052-362-7) ^ (#cite_ref-7) Encyclopædia Britannica, Eleventh Edition, Volume XXVII, pages 592–593 ^ (#cite_ref-8) Mollo, John (1972). Military Fashion . p. 231. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-214-65349-8 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) Galliac, Paul (2012). L' Armee Francaise . pp. 89–90. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-2-35250-195-4 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) Section 01.200, Army Dress Regulations (All Ranks) , Ministry of Defence, January 2011 ^ (#cite_ref-jsp336-3-12-1_11-0) British Army Dress Committee (August 2005). Joint Service Publication 336: The Defence Supply Chain Manual . Vol. 12 , Part 3, Pamphlet 12, Sect. 1 (3rd ed.). p. Para. 117, 119. Archived from the original (http://www.aof.mod.uk/content/docs/jsp336/3rd_ed/vol12/pt3/pam12/s1.doc) on 2007-11-06. ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Army Dress Manual" (https://www.army.gov.au/sites/default/files/2020-03/Army%20Dress%20Manual_0.pdf) (PDF) . www.army.gov.au . Australian Army. 1 February 2013 . Retrieved 3 November 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) "Royal Australian Navy Uniforms" (https://www.navy.gov.au/about/organisation/uniforms) . www.navy.gov.au . Royal Australian Navy . Retrieved 3 November 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) Greene, Andrew (12 August 2016). "Army modernises ceremonial uniforms in recognition of Anzac centenary" (https://www.abc.net.au/news/2016-08-13/army-modernises-uniforms-in-recognition-of-anzac-centenary/7731368) . www.abc.net.au . ABC News . Retrieved 3 November 2021 . ^ Jump up to: a b c "Full dress and undress uniforms" (https://www.canada.ca/en/department-national-defence/services/military-history/history-heritage/dress-manual/chapter-6.html) . Dress Instruction . Government of Canada. 12 September 2018 . Retrieved 10 January 2019 . ^ Jump up to: a b "6-1" (https://web.archive.org/web/20180730135902/http://www.cmp-cpm.forces.gc.ca/dhh-dhp/pub/ins-265/dhh_dress_instr_adh265000_ag001-19Sep16-eng.pdf) (PDF) . Canadian Armed Forces Dress Instruction . Canadian Armed Forces. 1 June 2001. p. 211. Archived from the original (http://www.cmp-cpm.forces.gc.ca/dhh-dhp/pub/ins-265/dhh_dress_instr_adh265000_ag001-19Sep16-eng.pdf) (PDF) on 30 July 2018 . Retrieved 11 June 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) "Dress instructions: Annex A Ceremonial dress - No. 1" (https://www.canada.ca/en/department-national-defence/services/military-history/history-heritage/dress-manual/chapter-5/annex-a.html) . canada.ca . Government of Canada. 26 July 2019 . Retrieved 11 October 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) (in French) INSTRUCTION N° 900/DEF/EMAA/BSOUTIEN/PERS relative aux tenues du personnel militaire de l'armée de l'air (https://www.bo.sga.defense.gouv.fr/boreale_internet/popup.php?app_mode=2&txt_id=62425&format=html&) ^ (#cite_ref-19) (in French) tenues du personnel militaire de la marine (https://www.bo.sga.defense.gouv.fr/boreale_internet/download.php?f_type=PDF&f_id=NTY3MDgucGRm&no_cache=2) ^ (#cite_ref-20) (in French) INSTRUCTION N° 10300/DEF/EMAT/LOG/ASH – DEF/DCCAT/LOG/REG relative aux tenues et uniformes des militaires des armes et services de l’armée de terre. (http://www.unor-reserves.fr/ressources%20pdf,%20xls,%20doc/Instruction%2010300%20-%20Port%20de%20la%20tenue%20AdT.pdf) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20190717154226/http://unor-reserves.fr/ressources%20pdf,%20xls,%20doc/Instruction%2010300%20-%20Port%20de%20la%20tenue%20AdT.pdf) 2019-07-17 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ^ (#cite_ref-21) Indonesian National Armed Forces Commander decree, dated 16 May 2019, regarding the Uniform, Attributes, Medals, and Rank Insignia of the Indonesian National Armed Forces ^ (#cite_ref-22) Usage, Attributes, and Uniform of the Indonesian Army (https://dokumen.tips/documents/penggunaan-kelengkapan-dan-atribut-tni-ad.html) ^ (#cite_ref-23) Dressed to kill: Generals get a makeover with new dress uniforms , by Judah Ari Gross. Times of Israel. 26 May, 2016 (https://www.timesofisrael.com/generals-get-a-makeover-with-new-dress-uniforms/) ^ (#cite_ref-24) "Senior IDF officers to wear dress uniforms during ceremonies" (http://www.israelnationalnews.com/News/Flash.aspx/358752) . Arutz Sheva (/wiki/Arutz_Sheva) . 5 May 2016 . Retrieved 15 May 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-25) "Royal Marines perform historic Changing of the Guard to mark their 350th birthday" (https://web.archive.org/web/20140819120932/https://www.royalnavy.mod.uk/news-and-latest-activity/news/2014/june/18/140618-rm-palace-guard) . Royal Navy . 18 June 2014. Archived from the original (https://www.royalnavy.mod.uk/news-and-latest-activity/news/2014/june/18/140618-rm-palace-guard) on 19 August 2014 . Retrieved 26 June 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-chapter40_26-0) "Dress Regulations: Chapter 40" (http://www.royalnavy.mod.uk/-/media/royal-navy-responsive/documents/reference-library/br-3-vol-1/chapter-40.pdf) (PDF) . Royal Navy . Retrieved 21 March 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-27) Harrington, Peter (2001). British Army Uniforms in Color . pp. 10–146. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-7643-1302-9 . ^ (#cite_ref-28) Encyclopaedia Britannica, Eleventh Edition, Volume XXVII, pages 584-586 ^ (#cite_ref-29) "Khaki Uniform 1848–49: First Introduction by Lumsden and Hodson", Journal of the Society for Army Historical Research; JSAHR 82 (Winter 2004); pp 341–347 ^ (#cite_ref-30) Major R. M. Barnes, pages=236 & 237, "Military Uniforms of Britain and the Empire", Sphere Books Ltd, 1972 ^ (#cite_ref-31) Sumner, Ian (1982). British Infantry Regiments Since 1660 . p. 132. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 1-85079-009-4 . ^ (#cite_ref-32) Major R. M. Barnes, page=288, "The Uniforms and History of the Scottish Regiments", Sphere Books Ltd, 1972 ^ (#cite_ref-33) Chappell, Mike (1997). Redcaps. Britain's Military Police . p. 59. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 1-85532-670-1 . ^ (#cite_ref-34) "Royal Air Force Dircetor of Music" (http://www.britairforce.com/imagepages/raf_uniform_music.htm) . ^ (#cite_ref-35) Air Force Personnel Center. " PAST, PRESENT AND FUTURE PHASEOUT DATES FOR UNIFORM ITEMS (http://www.afpc.af.mil/shared/media/document/AFD-100909-036.pdf) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20130222142635/http://www.afpc.af.mil/shared/media/document/AFD-100909-036.pdf) 22 February 2013 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) " ^ Jump up to: a b c d Emerson, William K. (1996). Encyclopedia of United States Army Insignia and Uniforms . University of Oklahoma Press. pp. 559–565. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-8061-2622-1 . ^ (#cite_ref-37) "18-.Overcoat,ceremonial,blue" (https://armypubs.army.mil/epubs/DR_pubs/DR_a/pdf/web/ARN6028_DAPam670-1_Web_FINAL.pdf) (PDF) . Guide to Wear and Appearance of Army Uniforms and Insignia . Department of the Army. 25 May 2017. p. 127 . Retrieved 4 June 2019 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d "Military uniform equivalents" (https://web.archive.org/web/20190604084737/https://media.defense.gov/2018/Dec/13/2002072299/-1/-1/0/CIM_1020_6J.PDF) (PDF) . The Uniform Regulations . U.S. Department of Homeland Security. 9 December 2018. p. 99. Archived from the original (https://media.defense.gov/2018/Dec/13/2002072299/-1/-1/0/CIM_1020_6J.PDF) (PDF) on 4 June 2019 . Retrieved 4 June 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-39) "U.S. Army Uniforms" (https://www.army.mil/uniforms/) . United States Army. 2019 . Retrieved 4 June 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-40) Philipps, Dave (5 May 2019). "To Stand Out, the Army Picks a New Uniform With a World War II Look" (https://www.nytimes.com/2019/05/05/us/new-army-greens-uniform.html) . The New York Times . Retrieved 4 June 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-41) Sanders, Denise. "The magic of the 125th Tournament of Roses Parade" (http://darkroom.baltimoresun.com/2014/01/the-magic-of-the-125th-tournament-of-roses-parade/#15) . Baltimore Sun . Retrieved 2 January 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-42) U.S. Bureau of Land Management. "Wild Horse & Burro Program and the United States Marine Corps Color Guard" (https://web.archive.org/web/20140103063241/http://www.blm.gov/ca/st/en/prog/wild_horse_and_burro/Color_Guard.print.html) . U.S. DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIORBUREAU OF LAND MANAGEMENT. Archived from the original (https://www.blm.gov/ca/st/en/prog/wild_horse_and_burro/Color_Guard.print.html) on 3 January 2014 . Retrieved 2 January 2014 . 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Template:Reflist 19.99% 132.408 13 Template:Cite_book 17.93% 118.769 1 Template:Western_dress_codes 17.68% 117.093 1 Template:Sidebar_with_collapsible_lists 14.49% 95.964 3 Template:In_lang 9.25% 61.265 1 Template:Short_description 6.97% 46.189 6 Template:Navbox 6.36% 42.106 1 Template:Clothing 6.23% 41.287 14 Template:Cite_web Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:3123693-0!canonical and timestamp 20240719051541 and revision id 1223788110. 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Pag lace Type Lace (/wiki/Lace) Production method Needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) Production process Handicraft (/wiki/Handicraft) Place of origin Pag (/wiki/Pag_(town)) , Croatia Introduced 15th century Lacemaking in Croatia (/wiki/Lacemaking_in_Croatia) UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage (/wiki/UNESCO_Intangible_Cultural_Heritage_Lists) Country Croatia (/wiki/Croatia) Reference 00245 (https://ich.unesco.org/en/RL/00245) Region Europe and North America (/wiki/Template:UNESCO_Representative_List_of_the_Intangible_Cultural_Heritage_of_Humanity/ENA) Inscription history Inscription 2009 (4th session) List (/wiki/Masterpieces_of_the_Oral_and_Intangible_Heritage_of_Humanity) Representative Bronze statue of a Pag lace-maker, Pag (town) Pag lace ( Croatian (/wiki/Croatian_language) : Paška čipka ) is a distinct form of lacework (/wiki/Lace) originating from Pag (/wiki/Pag_(town)) , an island in Croatia (/wiki/Croatia) . Creating Pag lace involves using a needle, thread, and a firm round or square pillow as a backing. Traditionally, lace-makers of Pag did their teg (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/teg#Serbo-Croatian) (work) without any drawings. Each woman would inherit works from her mother and grandmothers, incorporating their techniques while adding a personal touch, resulting in unique and exceptional pieces. The creation of each lacework symbolizes the anonymous, modest, and self-sacrificing lives of the skilled artisans. In 2009, Lacemaking in Croatia, represented by Lepoglava (/wiki/Lepoglava) lace, Pag lace and Hvar (/wiki/Hvar) lace, was inscribed in the UNESCO (/wiki/UNESCO) 's Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity (/wiki/Representative_List_of_the_Intangible_Cultural_Heritage_of_Humanity) . [1] (#cite_note-1) History [ edit ] Pag lace is notable for its unique origins, believed to trace back to Mycenae (/wiki/Mycenae) , and has been preserved in the city of Pag since ancient times. The earliest documented records of Pag lace date back to the 15th century (/wiki/15th_century) , mentioning the involvement of the Benedictine nuns from the monastery (/wiki/Monastery) . Before, there were no stencils or blueprints for making, [2] (#cite_note-otok-2) the work being entirely empirical. [3] (#cite_note-croatialace-3) The way they were made and their pattern was passed from generation to generation, from mother to daughter by word of mouth and practical work. Benedictine Monastery of St. Margaritas is also responsible for spreading Pag lace, which they sold to Venice (/wiki/Venice) or Vienna (/wiki/Vienna) . [4] (#cite_note-4) The Benedictine sisters were the main initiators of lacemaking and the lace school in Pag. Today, the monastery has a collection of over a hundred exhibits that has been preserved and collected for over 150 years. [2] (#cite_note-otok-2) For the first time that Pag lace was officially presented at the exhibition in 1880. In the period from 1906 to 1943, Pag lace was shown at numerous exhibitions around the world, in London, New York, Budapest, Belgrade, Vienna, Milan, Prague. At the World's Fair in Paris in 1937, it received a gold plaque as an extremely valuable handiwork. Empress Maria Theresa kept a Pag lacemaker at the Viennese court, who sewed lace for the needs of the court. See also [ edit ] Lacemaking in Croatia (/wiki/Lacemaking_in_Croatia) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Intangible Heritage Home - intangible heritage - Culture Sector" (http://www.unesco.org/culture/ich/index.php?RL=00245) . UNESCO . Retrieved 2017-04-17 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Paška čipka" (https://www.otok-pag.hr/tours/paska-cipka/PG-TR-129) . otok-pag.hr . ^ (#cite_ref-croatialace_3-0) "Skill and Patience, Foundation Behind Fashion" (https://www.croatialace.com/skill-and-patience-foundation-behind-fashion/) . croatialace.com . July 2, 2020. ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Paški baškotin proslavljen iz samostana časnih sestara benediktinki" (http://oblizeki.com/paski-baskotin-proslavljen-iz-samostana-casnih-sestara-benediktinki-4563) . oblizeki.com . January 3, 2012. External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Pag lace (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Pag_lace) . "Pag lace, the lace of emperors" (https://www.croatianhistory.net/etf/paglace.html) , on croatianhistory.net v t e Lace (/wiki/Lace) types Needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Punto in Aria (/wiki/Punto_in_Aria) Point de Venise (/wiki/Point_de_Venise) Point de France (/wiki/Point_de_France) Alençon (/wiki/Alen%C3%A7on_lace) Aemilia Ars (/w/index.php?title=Aemilia_Ars&action=edit&redlink=1) Argentan (/wiki/Argentan_lace) Argentella (/wiki/Argentella) Armenian (/wiki/Armenian_needlelace) Burano (https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merletto%20di%20Burano) Halas lace (/wiki/Halas_lace) Hedebo embroidery (/wiki/Hedebo_embroidery) Hollie Point (/wiki/Hollie_Point) Nallıhan (/wiki/Nall%C4%B1han_silk_needlelace) Point de Gaze (/wiki/Point_de_Gaze) Kenmare Lace (/wiki/Kenmare_lace) Ñandutí (/wiki/%C3%91andut%C3%AD) Oya (/wiki/Oya_(lace)) Pag Puncetto Valsesiano (/w/index.php?title=Puncetto_Valsesiano&action=edit&redlink=1) Tenerife (/wiki/Tenerife_lace) Youghal (/wiki/Youghal_lace) Embroidery (/wiki/Embroidery) Buratto (/wiki/Buratto) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Reticella (/wiki/Reticella) Limerick (/wiki/Limerick_lace) Needlerun net (/wiki/Needlerun_net) Tambour (/wiki/Tambour_lace) Cutwork (/wiki/Cutwork) Broderie anglaise (/wiki/Broderie_anglaise) Carrickmacross (/wiki/Carrickmacross_lace) Lefkara lace (/wiki/Lefkara_lace) Saba lace (/wiki/Saba_lace) Bobbin lace (/wiki/Bobbin_lace) Mesh grounds (/wiki/Mesh_grounded_bobbin_lace) Torchon (/wiki/Torchon_lace) Freehand (/wiki/Freehand_lace) Arras (/wiki/Arras_lace) Bayeux (/wiki/Bayeux_lace) Beeralu (/w/index.php?title=Beeralu&action=edit&redlink=1) Blonde (/wiki/Blonde_lace) Bucks point (/wiki/Bucks_point_lace) Chantilly (/wiki/Chantilly_lace) Chefoo (/w/index.php?title=Chefoo_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Cogne (/wiki/Cogne_lace) Tønder (/wiki/T%C3%B8nder_lace) Beveren (/wiki/Beveren_lace) Lille (/wiki/Lille_lace) Binche (/wiki/Binche_lace) Flanders (/wiki/Flanders_lace) Paris (/wiki/Paris_lace) Valenciennes (/wiki/Valenciennes_lace) Antwerp (/wiki/Antwerp_lace) Mechlin (/wiki/Mechlin_lace) Ipswich (/wiki/Ipswich_lace) 's Gravenmoer (/w/index.php?title=%27s_Gravenmoer_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Mundillo (/wiki/Mundillo) Guipure (/wiki/Guipure) Greek (/wiki/Greek_lace) Genoese (/wiki/Genoese_lace) Bedfordshire (/wiki/Bedfordshire_lace) Cluny (/wiki/Cluny_lace) Dentelle du Puy (https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dentelle_du_Puy) Liptov (/wiki/Liptov) Maltese (/wiki/Maltese_lace) Yak lace (/wiki/Yak_lace) Part laces (/wiki/Part_lace) Honiton (/wiki/Honiton_lace) Bruges (/wiki/Bruges_lace) Brussels (/wiki/Brussels_lace) Rosaline (/wiki/Rosaline_lace) Point d'Angleterre (/wiki/Brussels_lace#Point_d'Angleterre) Tape (/wiki/Bobbin_tape_lace) Cantù (/w/index.php?title=Cant%C3%B9_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Milanese (/wiki/Milanese_bobbin_lace) Hinojosa (/w/index.php?title=Hinojosa_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Russian (/wiki/Russian_lace) Idrija (/wiki/Idrija_lace) Schneeberg (/wiki/Schneeberg_lace) Peasant (/w/index.php?title=Peasant_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Tape lace (/wiki/Tape_lace) Mezzopunto (/w/index.php?title=Mezzopunto&action=edit&redlink=1) Princess (/wiki/Princess_lace) Renaissance (/wiki/Renaissance_lace) Battenberg (/wiki/Battenberg_lace) Romanian point (/wiki/Romanian_point_lace) Branscombe (/wiki/Branscombe_lace) Crocheted lace (/wiki/Crocheted_lace) Broomstick lace (/wiki/Broomstick_lace) Irish crochet (/wiki/Irish_lace) Hairpin (/wiki/Hairpin_lace) Filet crochet (/wiki/Filet_crochet) Orvieto lace (/w/index.php?title=Orvieto_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Machine (/wiki/Lace_machine) -made lace Bobbinet (/wiki/Bobbinet) Leavers (/wiki/Leavers_machine) Pusher (/wiki/Pusher_machine) Barmen (/wiki/Barmen_lace_machine) Curtain Machine (/wiki/Nottingham_lace_curtain_machine) Chemical (/wiki/Chemical_lace) Raschel (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Stocking Frame (/wiki/Stocking_frame) Warp Knit (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Other handmade laces Metal laces (/wiki/Metal_lace) Lace knitting (/wiki/Lace_knitting) Macramé (/wiki/Macram%C3%A9) Tatting (/wiki/Tatting) Punto a groppo (/wiki/Punto_a_groppo) Sprang (/wiki/Sprang) Liturgical lace (/wiki/Liturgical_lace) Media related to Lace (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Lace) at Wikimedia Commons Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Clothing portal (/wiki/Portal:Clothing) This Croatia (/wiki/Croatia) -related article is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . You can help Wikipedia by expanding it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Pag_lace&action=edit) . v t e This textile arts (/wiki/Textile_arts) article is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . 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Garments originating from a previous era "Vintage clothes" redirects here. For the song by Paul McCartney, see Memory Almost Full (/wiki/Memory_Almost_Full) . This article has multiple issues. Please help improve it (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Vintage_clothing) or discuss these issues on the talk page (/wiki/Talk:Vintage_clothing) . ( Learn how and when to remove these template messages (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) This article needs additional citations for verification (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this article (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Vintage_clothing) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Find sources: "Vintage clothing" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Vintage+clothing%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Vintage+clothing%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Vintage+clothing%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Vintage+clothing%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Vintage+clothing%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Vintage+clothing%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( November 2012 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) This article possibly contains original research (/wiki/Wikipedia:No_original_research) . Please improve it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Vintage_clothing&action=edit) by verifying (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) the claims made and adding inline citations (/wiki/Wikipedia:Citing_sources#Inline_citations) . Statements consisting only of original research should be removed. ( November 2012 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) The examples and perspective in this article may not represent a worldwide view (/wiki/Wikipedia:WikiProject_Countering_systemic_bias) of the subject . You may improve this article (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Vintage_clothing&action=edit) , discuss the issue on the talk page (/wiki/Talk:Vintage_clothing) , or create a new article (/wiki/Wikipedia:Article_wizard) , as appropriate. ( November 2017 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Vintage clothing shops, Dublin (/wiki/Dublin) , Ireland Vintage (/wiki/Vintage_(design)) clothing is a generic term for garments (/wiki/Clothing) originating from a previous era, as recent as the 1990s. The term can also be applied in reference to second-hand retail outlets (/wiki/Retail_outlet) , e.g. in vintage clothing store . While the concept originated during World War I as a response to textile shortages, [1] (#cite_note-1) vintage dressing encompasses choosing accessories, mixing vintage garments with new, as well as creating an ensemble of various styles and periods. Vintage clothes typically sell at low prices for high-end (/wiki/Luxury_goods) name brands. Vintage clothing can be found in cities at local boutiques or local charities, or on the internet, e.g. eBay (/wiki/EBay) and Etsy (/wiki/Etsy) , or through digital second-hand shopping websites. Vintage fashion has seen a reemergence in popularity within the 21st century due to increased prevalence of vintage pieces in the media and among celebrities, as well as consumer interests in sustainability and slow fashion. [2] (#cite_note-:3-2) 1950s bridal vintage slip (/wiki/Slip_(clothing)) Definitions [ edit ] "Vintage" is a colloquialism (/wiki/Colloquialism) commonly used to refer to all old styles of clothing. A generally accepted industry standard is that items made between 20 and 100 years ago are considered "vintage" if they clearly reflect the styles and trends of the era they represent. These clothing items come with a sense of history attached to them, which is one of the reasons they are valued by vintage enthusiasts. [3] (#cite_note-3) This sense of history allows consumers to express sentimental nostalgia for fashions of past eras and for aspects not common with modern items like craftsmanship. [4] (#cite_note-4) [5] (#cite_note-5) Vintage items are considered different than antique (/wiki/Antique) , which is used to refer to items 100 years old or more. Retro (/wiki/Retro) , short for retrospective, or "vintage style," usually refers to clothing that imitates the style of a previous era. Reproduction, or repro, clothing is a newly made copy of an older garment. Clothing produced more recently is usually called modern or contemporary fashion. Deadstock [ edit ] Deadstock refers to merchandise that was withdrawn from sale and warehoused without having been sold to a customer. This is due to the item no longer being in fashion or otherwise outdated or superseded. Such merchandise might once again be in demand and at such point can be returned to sale. Return to sale of fashion merchandise would make it vintage clothing. However, repurposing of deadstock in new products is one way to improve sustainability (/wiki/Sustainability) in the fashion industry (/wiki/Fashion_industry) . Sizing [ edit ] In the United States, due to changes in clothing sizes (/wiki/Vanity_sizing) , vintage sizes are often smaller than the corresponding contemporary size. For example, a garment from the 1970s labeled as Medium (M) might be similar in size to a 2010s Extra Small (XS). Vintage sewing patterns (/wiki/Pattern_(sewing)) offer an option for those who want a historically accurate garment but cannot find one in their size. Retail market [ edit ] This section needs additional citations for verification (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this article (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Vintage_clothing) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) in this section. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Find sources: "Vintage clothing" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Vintage+clothing%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Vintage+clothing%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Vintage+clothing%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Vintage+clothing%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Vintage+clothing%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Vintage+clothing%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( December 2017 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Vintage Edwardian-inspired fashion Popular places to buy vintage clothing include charity-run second-hand clothing shops (/wiki/Charity_shop) , thrift stores, consignment shops, garage sales (/wiki/Garage_sale) , car boot sales (/wiki/Car_boot_sale) , flea markets (/wiki/Flea_market) , antique markets, estate sales (/wiki/Estate_sale) , auctions (/wiki/Auction) , vintage clothing shops and vintage fashion, textile (/wiki/Textile) or collectables fairs. With the rise of the digital world and social media, the consumption of Vintage clothing has rapidly expanded, with e-commerce websites leading to growth in consumer accessibility of vintage pieces. [6] (#cite_note-:1-6) The internet has drastically increased the availability of specific and hard-to-get items and opened up prospective markets for sellers around the world. In the last 20 years, social media in particular has become the most popular medium for consumers to obtain information about, and interact with vintage fashion. [6] (#cite_note-:1-6) Popular places to acquire garments include online auctions (e.g. eBay (/wiki/EBay) ), multi-vendor sites (e.g. Etsy (/wiki/Etsy) ), online vintage clothing shops, (eg. TheRealReal (/wiki/The_RealReal) , ThredUp), specialist forums, and social media sites (eg. Facebook Marketplace (/wiki/Facebook_Marketplace) , Depop (/wiki/Depop) ), where consumers can like, share, and purchase vintage goods from their smartphones. [6] (#cite_note-:1-6) Many vintage clothing shops with physical locations also sell their goods online. In a world filled with fast fashion and "new" being the most popular choice, vintage style has found a way to stay popular. This has a lot to do with celebrities and influencers following this trend, making it a desirable choice for the general public as well. Famous brands, such as Gucci, have made choices like cutting down the number of yearly fashion shows, in order to move the fashion industry toward greater sustainability. The seasonal fashion cycle that the industry has followed for years is being broken down to favor a more environmentally conscious approach to fashion. [7] (#cite_note-7) Typically in the United States, vintage clothing shops can be found clustered in college towns (/wiki/College_towns) and artsy neighborhoods of cities. In contrast to thrift stores (/wiki/Charity_shop) that sell both vintage and contemporary used clothing, vintage clothing shops are usually for-profit enterprises, with the market mixed between small chains and independent stores. These stores typically range from 200 to 5,000 square feet in size, and will usually have a fitting room (/wiki/Fitting_room) . Vintage clothing stores may obtain clothing from individuals in exchange for cash or store credit. History [ edit ] A girl wearing Victorian-inspired fashion Before the rise of industrial manufacture, construction of most articles of clothing required extensive hand labor. Clothing worn by farmers and laborers was more a matter of practicality than fashion. In order to maximize value, clothing was repaired when worn or damaged, sometimes with layers of patching. Used clothing, in reasonable condition, could be tailored (/wiki/Tailor) for a new owner. When too tattered to repair, an article might have been taken down to scraps for use in a quilt (/wiki/Quilt) or braided rag rug (/wiki/Rug_making) , or used as rags for cleaning or dusting. [8] (#cite_note-:4-8) The term "vintage" in relation to "vintage fashion" and "vintage clothing" was first used in 1997 by Matthew Adams who founded Frock Me! (/wiki/Frock_Me!) , the first vintage fashion fair in the UK. During World War I (/wiki/World_War_I) , the United States launched a conservation campaign, with slogans such as "Make economy fashionable lest it become obligatory". One result was an approximate 10% reduction in wartime trash production. [8] (#cite_note-:4-8) Into the 20th and 21st centuries, vintage clothing has seen increased popularity throughout media and pop culture. The tides of popular fashion (/wiki/Fashion) create demand for ongoing replacement of products with something that is new and fresh. [2] (#cite_note-:3-2) Once known as secondhand clothing, is now seen as vintage clothing. This is due in part to increased visibility through media, film and television, and celebrity influence. In the past 20 years, vintage fashion has been featured in leading fashion and lifestyle magazines, including a 2011 publication of Marie Claire (/wiki/Marie_Claire) . [2] (#cite_note-:3-2) The popularity of period pieces (/wiki/Period_piece) within film and television has also contributed to trends of vintage fashion. The authentic portrayal of 1960s fashions in the 2007 award winning series Mad Men sparked a resurgence of glamour in consumer interest. This was reflected in a prevalence of 1950 and 60s fashions in 2010 runways, and increased sales at vintage shops. In the early 2000s, celebrities like Reese Witherspoon and Renee Zellweger brought vintage clothing into the media by wearing vintage pieces to red carpets. [2] (#cite_note-:3-2) In the past decade, vintage clothing has become part of the movement towards environmental sustainability (/wiki/Sustainability) and sustainable fashion (/wiki/Sustainable_fashion) , and is an aspect of slow fashion, a concept coined in 2007 by Kate Fletcher. Vintage fashion appeals to consumer interests of ethical clothing as it falls under categories of reusing, recycling and repairing items rather than throwing them away. [6] (#cite_note-:1-6) Vintage shopping trends have also seen a transition to E-commerce, with the emergence of sites such as Depop (/wiki/Depop) , founded in 2011, ThredUp (https://www.thredup.com) , founded in 2009, and TheRealReal (/wiki/The_RealReal) , founded in 2011. When new retailers try to enter the market for vintage clothing, they face certain barriers unique to this segment of the fashion industry. For example, authenticity and exclusivity are two very important factors that vintage clothing consumers look for, so guaranteeing these qualities is of greatest importance for the retailers. Knowing and disclosing the origin of the clothing is a crucial component of succeeding in the vintage clothing retail industry. [9] (#cite_note-9) Those who purchase vintage clothes may wear them frequently or use them as showpieces of great value within their wardrobe. These tend to never be worn, rather appreciated from their new home in the owner's closet. While some people may keep these clothes in their possession for a long time, others may look to repurpose, mend, or pass these items to new owners. [10] (#cite_note-10) Historically based sub-cultural groups like rockabilly (/wiki/Rockabilly) and swing dancing (/wiki/Swing_(dance)) played a part in the increased interest in vintage clothes. In Finland the vintage scene resulted in a registered non-profit organization (/wiki/Non-profit_organization) called Fintage (/w/index.php?title=Fintage&action=edit&redlink=1) , from common interest in the preservation of material culture (/wiki/Material_culture) and the environment. "Vintage inspired" and "vintage style" [ edit ] Fashion designers often look in the past to find some style inspirations and for that reason, vintage inspired style always remain in the limelight. Vintage inspired style is not limited to one particular era or style. Instead, it encompasses a broad range of influences, enabling designers to create collections that represent the best of various periods. [11] (#cite_note-11) Vintage clothing allows the buyers to be their own designers because they can choose the different styles from second-hand clothing. [12] (#cite_note-12) In addition, authentic garments are made one at a time, with enough attention to detail to create an item that has long lasting value. Garments closely resembling original vintage (retro or antique) clothing are mass-produced, for the most part, in China. An example of this is the simple slip dresses (/wiki/Slip_dress) that emerged in the early 1990s, a style that resembles a 1930s design, but upon examination will show that it only superficially resembles the real thing. These styles are generally referred to as "vintage style", "vintage inspired" or "vintage reproductions". They serve as a convenient alternative to those who admire an old style but prefer a modern interpretation. People who wear vintage clothing look for designer brands and limited edition products to fit in the “vintage” category. [13] (#cite_note-13) Sellers claim consumer advantage in that, unlike the original garments, they are usually available in a range of sizes and perhaps, colours and/or fabrics, and can be sold much cheaper. Vintage fashion can be understood as a response to fast fashion (/wiki/Fast_fashion) , in which garments are mass produced. Vintage shopping allow consumers to find unique pieces and create a sense of individuality. [14] (#cite_note-:2-14) Vintage clothing is also meant to evoke an emotional connection to clothing, especially connecting pieces with feelings such as nostalgia and memories. The individuality and sense of style that a person tries to convey by building a wardrobe around "vintage style" is something that drives the trend forward. [15] (#cite_note-15) Even luxury clothing consumers have made a shift toward a sustainable approach to luxury clothing, and vintage style has contributed greatly to this. Influencers and celebrities gravitating toward branded items that are second-hand or vintage, have pushed consumers to own unique pieces that are more environmentally friendly, rather than shopping for cheaper fast fashion. Giving vintage clothes a strong value in society and fashion has been crucial to making it a desirable choice for the greater public. This has helped create brand desirability in a market which may have not had this component earlier. Especially with the general public who have tighter budgets than celebrities, second-hand luxury items seem to be an appealing path into the world of luxury brands. [16] (#cite_note-16) Environmental sustainability [ edit ] Main article: Environmental sustainability of vintage fashion (/wiki/Environmental_sustainability_of_vintage_fashion) Vintage fashion is part of a larger movement of sustainable fashion (/wiki/Sustainable_fashion) , and falls under the category of slow fashion (/wiki/Slow_fashion) , which is direct response to increasing awareness of the environmental impacts of the fast fashion industry. Within the past 10 years, increased media coverage of environmental issues has led to increasing consumer interest in ethical clothing consumption, and vintage fashion specifically. [14] (#cite_note-:2-14) The fashion industry ranks as the second most polluting industry in the world after the oil industry. [17] (#cite_note-17) Consequently, a trend in becoming more conscious and sustainable shoppers has emerged through the years. The interest and demand in vintage shopping has grown significantly. In 2020, the term “vintage fashion” was researched 35,000 times on Lyst. [18] (#cite_note-18) One way of reducing waste and limiting the negative impact of fashion on the environment is the reuse and recycling of clothes. Vintage stores make fashion more sustainable. One used item purchased as opposed to one new one reduces CO2 emissions by 25% on average per use. [19] (#cite_note-19) Sometimes vintage items are upcycled via changing the hemline or other features for a more contemporary look. Vintage items [20] (#cite_note-20) in poor condition are also salvaged for reuse as components in new garments. Throughout the world, used apparel is reclaimed and put to new uses. The textile recycling (/wiki/Textile_recycling) industry is able to process over ninety percent of the waste without the production of any new hazardous waste or harmful by product. See also [ edit ] Vintage (design) (/wiki/Vintage_(design)) Thrift store chic (/wiki/Thrift_store_chic) Indie subculture (/wiki/Indie_subculture) Counterculture (/wiki/Counterculture) 2010s fashion (/wiki/2010s_fashion) Sustainable fashion (/wiki/Sustainable_fashion) Bibliography [ edit ] Bamford, Trudie (2003). Viva Vintage: Find it, Wear it, Love it . Carroll & Brown. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 1-903258-73-1 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/1-903258-73-1) Tolkien, Tracy (2000). Vintage: the Art of Dressing up . Pavilion. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 1-86205-305-7 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/1-86205-305-7) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) From Goodwill to Grunge: A History of Secondhand Styles and Alternative Economies. The University of North Carolina Press, 2017. ^ Jump up to: a b c d To cite this article: Tracy Diane Cassidy & Hannah Rose Bennett (2012) The Rise of Vintage Fashion and the Vintage Consumer, Fashion Practice, 4:2, 239-261, doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.2752/175693812X13403765252424 (https://doi.org/10.2752%2F175693812X13403765252424) ^ (#cite_ref-3) Abdelrahman, Omar Khaled, Emma Banister, and Daniel Peter Hampson. "Curatorial consumption: Objects’ circulation and transference in the vintage marketplace." Journal of Business Research 114 (2020): 304-311. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusres.2020.03.029 (https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusres.2020.03.029) ^ (#cite_ref-4) Abdelrahman, Omar Khaled, Emma Banister, and Daniel Peter Hampson. "Curatorial consumption: Objects’ circulation and transference in the vintage marketplace." Journal of Business Research 114 (2020): 304-311. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusres.2020.03.029 (https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusres.2020.03.029) ^ (#cite_ref-5) Niemeyer, Katharina: A theoretical approach to vintage: From oenology to media. In: NECSUS. European Journal of Media Studies , Jg. 4 (2015), Nr. 2, S. 85–102. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.25969/mediarep/15199 (https://doi.org/10.25969%2Fmediarep%2F15199) ^ Jump up to: a b c d Turunen, L L M, Leipämaa-Leskinen, H & Sihvonen, J 2018, Restructuring Secondhand Fashion from the Consumption Perspective. in D Ryding, C E Henninger & M Blazquez Cano (eds), Vintage Luxury Fashion: Exploring the Rise of the Secondhand Clothing Trade. 2, Palgrave Advances in Luxury, Palgrave Macmillan, pp. 11-27. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1007/978-3-319-71985-6 (https://doi.org/10.1007%2F978-3-319-71985-6) ^ (#cite_ref-7) Moorhouse, Debbie (24 July 2020). "Making Fashion Sustainable: Waste and Collective Responsibility" (https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7380204) . One Earth . 3 (1): 17–19. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1016/j.oneear.2020.07.002 (https://doi.org/10.1016%2Fj.oneear.2020.07.002) . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 2590-3322 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/2590-3322) . PMC (/wiki/PMC_(identifier)) 7380204 (https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7380204) . ^ Jump up to: a b Palmer, A. (2005). Vintage Whores and Vintage Virgins: Second Hand Fashion in the Twenty-first Century. In A. Palmer & H. Clark (Eds.). Old Clothes, New Looks: Second Hand Fashion (Dress, Body, Culture, pp. 197–214). Oxford: Berg Publishers. Retrieved November 13, 2022, from doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.2752/9781847888815/OCNL0022 (https://doi.org/10.2752%2F9781847888815%2FOCNL0022) ^ (#cite_ref-9) Mondal, Ibrahim (2014). Textiles: History, Properties, and Performance and Applications . New York: Nova Publishers. pp. 9–11. ^ (#cite_ref-10) Meacham, Samantha. "I FEEL LIKE MY LOVE RUNS TOO DEEP: VINTAGE CONSUMERS, SHARED VALUES, AND THE CLOTHING CONSUMPTION PROCESS". The University of Georgia. 2013. ^ (#cite_ref-11) "What Is Vintage Clothing - Definition, History, Origin, Popular Era's, and Where To Buy?" (https://creedvintage.com/blogs/blog/what-is-vintage-clothing) . Retrieved 7 June 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) DeLong, Marilyn; Heinemann, Barbara; Reiley, Kathryn (2005). "Hooked on Vintage!" (https://dx.doi.org/10.2752/136270405778051491) . Fashion Theory . 9 (1): 23–42. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.2752/136270405778051491 (https://doi.org/10.2752%2F136270405778051491) . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 1362-704X (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/1362-704X) . ^ (#cite_ref-13) Veenstra, Aleit; Kuipers, Giselinde (2013). "It Is Not Old-Fashioned, It Is Vintage, Vintage Fashion and The Complexities of 21st Century Consumption Practices". Sociology Compass . 7 (5): 355–365. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1111/soc4.12033 (https://doi.org/10.1111%2Fsoc4.12033) . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 1751-9020 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/1751-9020) . ^ Jump up to: a b Tracy Diane Cassidy & Hannah Rose Bennett (2012) The Rise of Vintage Fashion and the Vintage Consumer, Fashion Practice, 4:2, 239-261, doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.2752/175693812X13403765252424 (https://doi.org/10.2752%2F175693812X13403765252424) ^ (#cite_ref-15) Meraviglia, Laura. "From fast fashion to fashion vintage". Global Fashion 2014. Università Cattolica del Sacro Cuore, Italy. 2014. ^ (#cite_ref-16) Phau, Ian; Akintimehin, Olamide Oluwabusola; Lee, Sean. "Investigating consumers' brand desirability for upcycled luxury brands" (https://doi.org/10.1002%2Fjsc.2523) . Strategic Change . 31 (5): 523–531. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1002/jsc.2523 (https://doi.org/10.1002%2Fjsc.2523) . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 1086-1718 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/1086-1718) . ^ (#cite_ref-17) { https://www.worldbank.org/en/news/feature/2019/09/23/costo-moda-medio-ambiente (https://www.worldbank.org/en/news/feature/2019/09/23/costo-moda-medio-ambiente) ^ (#cite_ref-18) Farra, Emily (21 November 2020). "2020 Was a Big Year for Old Clothes: How Vintage, Secondhand Fashion, and Upcycling Took Off" (https://www.vogue.com/article/the-year-in-secondhand-vintage-upcycling-sustainable-fashion) . Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20230405143007/https://www.vogue.com/article/the-year-in-secondhand-vintage-upcycling-sustainable-fashion) from the original on 5 April 2023. ^ (#cite_ref-19) { https://www.thredup.com/ (https://www.thredup.com/) ^ (#cite_ref-20) "Haine second hand vintage" (https://hainesecond.ro/haine-vintage-second-hand/) . HaineSecond.ro (in Romanian). 19 October 2023 . 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Contemporary Japanese fashion trends For other aspects of clothing, see Japanese clothing (/wiki/Japanese_clothing) . Japanese street fashion refers to a number of styles of contemporary modern clothing in Japan (/wiki/Japan) . Created from a mix of both local and foreign fashion brands, Japanese street fashions (/wiki/Street_Fashion) tend to have their own distinctive style, with some considered to be extreme and avant-garde (/wiki/Avant-garde) , with similarities to the haute couture (/wiki/Haute_couture) styles seen on European catwalks (/wiki/Catwalk) . History [ edit ] As early as the 1950s, there were a few brands specially catered to street fashion, such as Onitsuka Tiger (now known as ASICS (/wiki/ASICS) ). In addition, the emergence of strong youth culture in the 1960s and 1970s that continues today (especially in Harajuku, a district in Shibuya, Tokyo) drives much of the development of new styles, looks, and fashion subcultures. The rise of consumerism (/wiki/Consumerism) , which played an important part in Japan's "national character" during its economic boom in the 1980s, continues to influence fashion purchases, even after this economic bubble burst in the 1990s. These factors result in the swift turnover and variability in styles popular at any one time. [1] (#cite_note-1) In 2003, Japanese hip-hop (/wiki/Japanese_hip-hop) , which had long been present among underground Tokyo's club scene, influenced the mainstream fashion industry. [2] (#cite_note-2) The popularity of the music was so influential that Tokyo's youth imitated their favorite hip hop stars from the way they dress with oversized clothes to tanned skin. [3] (#cite_note-3) Though extremely popular in the 1990s and early 2000s, many trends experienced a levelling off in the later 2000s and onwards; the rise and fall of many of these trends had been chronicled by Shoichi Aoki (/wiki/Shoichi_Aoki) since 1997 in the fashion magazine Fruits (/wiki/Fruits_(magazine)) , which was a notable magazine for the promotion of street fashion in Japan. [4] (#cite_note-4) Fashion industry and popular brands [ edit ] Comme des Garçons garments on display at the Metropolitan Museum of Art (/wiki/Metropolitan_Museum_of_Art) Although Japanese street fashion is known for its mix-match of different styles and genres, and there is no single sought-after brand that can consistently appeal to all fashion groups, the huge demand created by the fashion-conscious population is fed and supported by Japan's vibrant fashion industry. Issey Miyake (/wiki/Issey_Miyake) , Yohji Yamamoto (/wiki/Yohji_Yamamoto) and Comme des Garçons (/wiki/Comme_des_Gar%C3%A7ons) are often said to be the three cornerstone brands of Japanese fashion. Together they were particularly recognized as a Japanese fashion force in the early 1980s for their intensive use of monochrome (/wiki/Monochrome) color and cutting-edge design. The social motives driving interaction with and involvement in personal fashion choices and wider fashion movements within Japan are complex. Firstly, the comparatively large quantity of disposable income available to Japanese youth is significant; many argue this has been, historically, made possible through a greater degree of Japanese youth living at home with their parents for much longer than in other countries, reducing living expenses and thus making larger spending on clothing possible. [5] (#cite_note-5) Japan is also known for its significant consumption of foreign luxury brands. According to data from 2006, Japan consumed 41 percent of the entire world's luxury goods (/wiki/Luxury_goods) . [6] (#cite_note-6) The blue line of Burberry (/wiki/Burberry) is among the most successful in this arena. Japanese street fashion influences the West Coast of the United States (/wiki/West_Coast_of_the_United_States) . [7] (#cite_note-7) High-end fashion brands like Comme des Garçons (/wiki/Comme_des_Gar%C3%A7ons) have played a big role in the global industry since the 1980s, especially through frequent cross-over guest design with other brands. In 2008, Rei Kawakubo (/wiki/Rei_Kawakubo) designed for Louis Vuitton (/wiki/Louis_Vuitton) [8] (#cite_note-8) and H&M (/wiki/H%26M) . [9] (#cite_note-9) Harajuku Fashion was ranked 5th in the fashion field of Google Search of the Year in 2019. [10] (#cite_note-10) Modern Japanese street fashion [ edit ] Though the styles have changed over the years, street fashion is still prominent in Tokyo (/wiki/Tokyo) today. Young adults can often be found wearing subculture attire in large urban fashion districts such as Harajuku (/wiki/Harajuku) ( Ura-Harajuku (/wiki/Ura-Harajuku) ), Aoyama (/wiki/Aoyama,_Minato,_Tokyo) , Ginza (/wiki/Ginza) , Odaiba (/wiki/Odaiba) , Shinjuku (/wiki/Shinjuku) and Shibuya (/wiki/Shibuya) . Lolita [ edit ] Main article: Lolita fashion (/wiki/Lolita_fashion) Sweet Lolita Containing many different themes within its boundaries, Lolita has become one of the larger, more recognizable styles in Japanese street fashion and has gained a following worldwide. Skirts or dresses are usually worn at or below knee length with petticoats beneath for volume. Blouses or tops are lace-trimmed or ruffled in the Victorian or Rococo style. The length of the socks or stockings can go from ankle to thigh level and may be topped with lace. Wearers of this fashion style often put on Mary Janes (/wiki/Mary_Jane_(shoe)) , tea party shoes, or boots. The more well-known sub-styles within Lolita fashion are as follows: Gothic Lolita - Lolita with a heavy influence from the Eastern and Victorian Goth style. Often characterized by dark colors and accessories adorned with motifs such as skeletons, bats, spiders, and other popular gothic 'icons', such as characters from Tim Burton (/wiki/Tim_Burton) films. Victorian iron gates and architectural designs are also often seen in dress prints. Bonnets, rectangle headdresses, and brooches are popular accessories for Gothic Lolita. Sweet Lolita - the most childlike style, mostly characterized by baby animals, fairy tale themes, and innocent, childlike attire. It was originally inspired by Victorian children's clothing and the kawaii (/wiki/Kawaii) culture that is very prevalent in Japan. Pastel colors are often used, although some dresses or skirts may feature darker or muted colors as well. Large head bows, cute purses, and stuffed animals are popular accessories for Sweet Lolita. Classic Lolita - a sub-style more closely resembling the historical fashion of the Rococo or Victorian eras. The colors that are used in this look are usually muted, thus giving this sub-style a more mature feel. Floral prints and solid colors are common, although fancier prints are not unheard of as well. Small head bows, bonnets, rectangle headdresses, and hair corsages are popular accessories for Classic Lolita. Punk Lolita - an experimental style, mixing the influences of Punk with Lolita. It can sometimes look deconstructed or crazy while keeping most of the 'Lolita silhouette'. Ouji - also known as 'boy style', are the more masculine counterparts of lolita, influenced by Victorian boys' clothing. 'Prince pants', which are short capri-style pants that are cut off the knee, usually with some sort of detail (such as lace-edged cuffs) are commonly worn with masculine blouses, top hats, knee socks, and other accessories. [11] (#cite_note-11) Gyaru [ edit ] Main article: Gyaru (/wiki/Gyaru) Gyaru being photographed in Ikebukuro (/wiki/Ikebukuro) in 2009 Gyaru (sometimes known as Ganguro (/wiki/Ganguro) , actually a subcategory of gyaru ), is a type of Japanese street fashion that originated in the 1970s. Gyaru focuses on girly-glam style, dwelling on man-made beauty, such as wigs, fake lashes, and fake nails. Gyaru is also heavily inspired by Western fashion. Ganguro [ edit ] Main article: Ganguro (/wiki/Ganguro) Two ganguro girls in Tokyo, April 2008 The Ganguro style of Japanese street fashion became popular among Japanese girls in the early 1990s and peaked in the early 2000s. Ganguro falls into the larger subculture of gyaru (/wiki/Gyaru) fashion. Ganguro typically includes brightly colored outfits, mini-skirts, and tie-dyed sarongs (/wiki/Sarong) . The ganguro style consists of bleached hair, a deep tan, fake eyelashes, black and white eyeliner, bracelets, earrings, rings, necklaces, and platform shoes. Many people consider Namie Amuro (/wiki/Namie_Amuro) to have been the leading figure of ganguro style. Exactly after her public appearances with tanned skin and dyed hair, a lot of Japanese girls started to follow her example. The terms "Yamanba" and "Manba" refer to the extreme ends of the Ganguro style. However, enthusiasts of both the Yamanba and Manba styles consider ganguro as an "easy version" of their style. Nowadays, the name 'Yamanba' has shortened to 'Manba' . [12] (#cite_note-12) Kogal [ edit ] Main article: Kogal (/wiki/Kogal) A kogal identified by her loose socks (/wiki/Loose_socks) and shortened skirt The Kogal ( Kogyaru )look is based on a high school uniform, but with a shorter skirt, loose socks (/wiki/Loose_socks) , and often dyed hair and scarf as well. Members of the Kogal style sometimes refer to themselves as Gyaru (gals). This style was prominent in the 1990s, and it started gaining popularity again at the end of 2020, however it is an age category specifically for gals in high school. Bōsōzoku [ edit ] Main article: Bōsōzoku (/wiki/B%C5%8Ds%C5%8Dzoku) Japanese cosplayers (/wiki/Cosplayer) dressed up in bōsōzoku -style outfits While bōsōzoku fashion has not been widely popular since the 1990s, the stereotypical Bōsōzoku look is often portrayed, and even caricatured, in many forms of Japanese media such as anime, manga, and films. The typical bōsōzoku member is often depicted in a uniform consisting of a jumpsuit (/wiki/Jumpsuit) like those worn by manual laborers or a tokko-fuku ( 特攻服 ) , a type of military issued over-coat with kanji (/wiki/Kanji) slogans. These are usually worn open, with no shirt underneath, showing off bandaged torsos and matching baggy pants tucked inside tall boots. Amekaji [ edit ] Amekaji is a style based on American casual, often narrowly defined as Western/Native American/Biker-based. Amekaji was introduced to the public in the early 1990s by a group of delinquents in Shibuya (/wiki/Shibuya) known as "Teamer". Later, it was popularized by Takuya Kimura (/wiki/Takuya_Kimura) who wore it in his TV dramas. Decora Kei [ edit ] Example of Decora fashion The Decora Kei style originated in the late 1990s/early 2000s and rose to great popularity both in and outside Japan. It is exemplified by singer Kyary Pamyu Pamyu (/wiki/Kyary_Pamyu_Pamyu) , who rose to prominence in the Harajuku (/wiki/Harajuku) fashion scene before her musical debut. The wearers usually stick to a color scheme for their decora, such as Pink Decora, Red Decora, Dark Decora, and Rainbow Decora. A plain shirt and hoodie were often worn with short tutu (/wiki/Tutu_(clothing)) -like skirts. The hair (often worn in low ponytails with long bangs) and make-up itself tend to be quite plain. However, the most significant part of Decora Kei is to pile on many layers of cute accessories until the bangs and front hair is barely visible. Stockings, legwarmers, arm warmers, and knee socks are also worn over each other in different layers. Common details also include leopard prints (/wiki/Leopard_print) and patterned dental masks (/wiki/Dental_mask) . The style has since decreased in popularity but still has a large following worldwide. Visual Kei [ edit ] Main article: Visual Kei (/wiki/Visual_Kei) Visual kei band Versailles (/wiki/Versailles_(band)) Visual Kei is a style created in the mid-1980s by Japanese musicians consisting of striking makeup, unusual hair styles, and flamboyant costumes, similar to Western glam rock (/wiki/Glam_rock) and glam metal (/wiki/Glam_metal) . Androgyny (/wiki/Androgyny) is also a popular aspect of the style. Some of the more well-known and influential artists of the style include X Japan (/wiki/X_Japan) , Luna Sea (/wiki/Luna_Sea) , Versailles (/wiki/Versailles_(band)) , The Gazette (/wiki/The_Gazette_(band)) , Mejibray (/wiki/Mejibray) , Royz (/wiki/Royz) , L'Arc-en-Ciel (/wiki/L%27Arc-en-Ciel) , An Cafe (/wiki/An_Cafe) , Malice Mizer (/wiki/Malice_Mizer) , and Diaura (/wiki/Diaura) . Oshare Kei [ edit ] Oshare Kei is the opposite side of Visual Kei , with bright colors and many pop impressions. This said, bands under this style live up to the meaning by dressing up in colorful costumes, or in Decora or Pop Kei style; many are seen sporting large amounts of jewelry and bags of anime characters and animals slung on, many colorful hairclips, and lighter make-up. The music is more happy sounding, the lyrics lighter and happier. Bands include An Cafe (/wiki/An_Cafe) , Panic Channel (/wiki/Panic_Channel) , Ichigo69, Lolita23q, Sug (/wiki/Sug) , Delacroix, LM.C (/wiki/LM.C_(Japanese_band)) , and Aicle. [13] (#cite_note-13) Angura Kei [ edit ] Angura Kei is a dark Japanese fashion that is often associated with a subgenre of Visual Kei . The term derives from the Japanese pronunciation of "underground", which refers to its origins in underground theater. The clothes tend to be heavily influenced by traditional Japanese elements as well as the Showa era (/wiki/Showa_era) (1926–1989) but with a Goth spin to it. The make-up usually consists of shironuri and is dark and heavy. While kimono is the most commonly used by visual kei artists, the style also often features modified Japanese school uniforms. Motifs and accessories are themed around post-war Japan and the occult. Cult Party Kei [ edit ] Cult Party Kei , named after the Harajuku shop Cult Party (now known as the Virgin Mary ), is a style that was popular around the early 2010s and is based on Western religious artifacts like crosses or bibles. Common aspects include crosses wired in yarn, layers of fabric in soft colors, lots of cream lace and satin bows. The make-up and hairstyle is not as over the top as other styles. Cult Party Kei is often worn with natural-looking make-up without any larger emphasis on the eyes and simple hair-dos with roses. Cult Party Kei is considered by some to be a subset of Dolly Kei . Dolly Kei [ edit ] Dolly Kei is a style based on Japan's view of the Middle Ages (/wiki/Middle_Ages) and European fairy tales (/wiki/Fairy_tale) , especially the Brothers Grimm (/wiki/Brothers_Grimm) and Hans Christian Andersen (/wiki/Hans_Christian_Andersen) . It includes a lot of vintage-style clothing and sometimes has religious symbols. Grimoire is a store in Japan that has been described as "the pioneering store behind the Dolly- kei fashion scene". [14] (#cite_note-14) Fairy Kei [ edit ] Fairy Kei is a youthful style based on 1980s fashion that evokes a dreamy, nostalgic feeling. Outfits are made up of pastel colors, angels, toys and generally cute motifs and elements and accessories from Western toy lines of the 1980s and early 1990s, such as Polly Pocket (/wiki/Polly_Pocket) , My Little Pony (/wiki/My_Little_Pony) , Strawberry Shortcake (/wiki/Strawberry_Shortcake) , Rainbow Brite (/wiki/Rainbow_Brite) , Popples (/wiki/Popples) , Lady Lovely Locks (/wiki/Lady_Lovely_Locks) , Barbie (/wiki/Barbie) , Wuzzles (/wiki/Wuzzles) , and Care Bears (/wiki/Care_Bears) . Pastel-colored hair is common, although natural hair is also popular, and hairstyles are usually kept simple and decorated with anything cute or pastel; bows are a common theme. Some common items used in a Fairy Kei coordinate include vintage sweaters, cardigans, varsity jackets, tutus, mini skirts, tights, over-the-knee socks, sneakers, and tea party shoes. The term "Fairy Kei " originated from the magazine called Zipper (despite a common belief that Sayuri Tabuchi [Tavuchi], the owner of Tokyo fashion store Spank! , was the accidental creator of the style). [15] (#cite_note-15) Girly Kei [ edit ] Girly Kei is a hyperfeminine Japanese subculture that emphasizes cute and girlish appearance. As opposed to the definition in English, Girly Kei does not generally only consider everything feminine and mature looks; Girly Kei tends to focus on lace, ribbons, ruffles, and patterns such as flowers and hearts, with soft and pastel colors such as pink being the main focus. There are many substyles and the popular image can vary depending on the current trends has pushed Girly Kei's evolution into a more hyper-feminine and innocent direction during the early 2020s because mainstream fashion trends took heavily from this style. Mori Kei [ edit ] Mori Kei ( mori meaning "forest") uses soft, loosely fitting layers of garments such as floaty dresses and cardigans. It places an emphasis on natural fabrics ( cotton (/wiki/Cotton) , linen (/wiki/Linen) , wool (/wiki/Wool) ) and hand-made or vintage accessories with a nature theme. The color scheme tends to be light and neutral, but patterns such as gingham and florals may also be used. In terms of hairstyles, bangs (often curled) and braids are very popular. The style is similar to Dolly Kei in that the aim is to create a doll-like appearance but in a more casual, earthy manner. [16] (#cite_note-16) Jirai Kei [ edit ] Jirai Kei (meaning "landmine type") is a subculture and aesthetic originating from Japan that is heavily based on the teens hanging out in the night life of Kabukicho. During the height of its popularity it highly resembled Japanese Girly fashion, the edgier variants of it in particular, but has since moved on to integrate a broader variety of styles. The stereotype behind this subculture is that cute, hyper-feminine young women who dress in darker fashion styles have personalities that do not match their appearance. Rather than being sweet and demure, they are said to be violent and obsessive (like a Yandere (/wiki/Glossary_of_anime_and_manga#yandere) ), self-harm, and drink or smoke heavily. Many brands in Japan have quickly catered to this trend, with Western brands in-tune with Kawaii culture following suit. [17] (#cite_note-17) Jirai Kei is derived from Jirai Onna (地雷女, lit. "landmine woman"): a derogatory term that is used to label and stereotype a woman as what would be considered a "ticking time bomb" in English, especially towards mentally ill women with BPD, bipolar disorder, and other mood swing-causing illnesses. [18] (#cite_note-18) It is commonly used to dismiss women, often ex-girlfriends, as crazy and/or dangerous over arbitrary traits, such as a fondness for Kawaii. Women within the subculture are called "Jirai Joshi" (地雷女子), or landmine girls, [19] (#cite_note-19) while men in the subculture are referred to as "Jirai Danshi" (地雷男子), or landmine boys. [20] (#cite_note-20) Peeps [ edit ] Peeps is a 90s-inspired sporty goth style that has been popularized in Harajuku's underground scene by the online magazine PEEPS. It was voted one of the major trends for 2020 in the yearly trend forecast by the Japanese women's magazine Mery. [21] (#cite_note-21) Kimono Style [ edit ] Despite the widespread nature of Western clothing in Japan, Japanese fashion is still influenced by traditional clothing, with people still wearing the kimono (/wiki/Kimono) in daily life, though most people wear it only for weddings, graduations, and other formal occasions. Despite the heavily reduced numbers of people wearing kimono as everyday clothing, the younger generation in Japan can still be seen to mix kimono and modern style in fashion, wearing modern footwear and accessories instead of the typical geta (/wiki/Geta_(footwear)) and kanzashi (/wiki/Kanzashi) usually worn. There are even modern designers who have used the kimono as inspiration, such as the "TANZEN" collection from designer Issey Miyake. [ citation needed ] Genderless [ edit ] Main article: Genderless fashion in Japan (/wiki/Genderless_fashion_in_Japan) In the mid-2010s, genderless fashion became widespread and focused on people wearing clothing that did not conform to their assigned gender. The subculture is mostly dominated by men, who are known as "genderless men." [ citation needed ] Designers featured at international fashion weeks [ edit ] Tomoko Yamanaka's work was featured at London Fashion Week (/wiki/London_Fashion_Week) , 2010. [22] (#cite_note-22) See also [ edit ] Deconstruction (fashion) (/wiki/Deconstruction_(fashion)) 2000s in Japanese fashion (/wiki/2000s_in_Japanese_fashion) 2010s in Asian fashion (/wiki/2010s_in_Asian_fashion) Youth culture (/wiki/Youth_culture) Camp (style) (/wiki/Camp_(style)) Fruits Cuteness in Japanese culture (/wiki/Kawaii) Madam/Aristocrat (/wiki/Aristocrat_(fashion)) Elegant Gothic Aristocrat (/wiki/Elegant_Gothic_Aristocrat) Neo-Victorian (/wiki/Neo-Victorian) Cosplay (/wiki/Cosplay) Visual Kei (/wiki/Visual_Kei) Poupee Girl (/wiki/Poupee_Girl) Baby the stars shine bright (/wiki/Baby_the_stars_shine_bright) Gyaru (/wiki/Gyaru) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Godoy, Tiffany (December 2007). Vartanian, Ivan (ed.). Style Deficit Disorder: Harajuku Street Fashion Tokyo . San Francisco (/wiki/San_Francisco) : Chronicle Books LLC. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780811857963 . Retrieved March 14, 2018 . PDF on kingdom-visions.com, readable online with a free account (http://www.kingdom-visions.com/style-deficit-disorder-harajuku-street-fashion-tokyo-english.pdf) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20180315133906/http://www.kingdom-visions.com/style-deficit-disorder-harajuku-street-fashion-tokyo-english.pdf) 2018-03-15 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ^ (#cite_ref-2) Takatsuki, Yo (December 17, 2003). "Japan grows its own hip-hop" (http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/asia-pacific/3324409.stm) . BBC News . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Condry, Ian. Hip-hop Japan: Rap and the Paths of Cultural Globalization. Durham, NC: Duke University Press, 2006. ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Fruits: future-pop fashion" (https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/29001/1/fruits-future-pop-fashion) . Dazed (/wiki/Dazed) . January 12, 2016 . Retrieved July 28, 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Letter from Tokyo: Shopping Rebellion – What the kids want (http://www.newyorker.com/archive/2002/03/18/020318fa_FACT?currentPage=1) ^ (#cite_ref-6) Japan External Trade Organization| Japan is the world's most concentrated source of revenue for luxury brands (http://www.jetro.org/content/361) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20090302085725/http://www.jetro.org/content/361) 2009-03-02 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ^ (#cite_ref-7) "Fashion Sensei" (https://web.archive.org/web/20170806100605/https://liftmeupwardrobe.co.uk/2013/07/19/fashion-sensei/) . July 19, 2013. Archived from the original (http://liftmeupwardrobe.co.uk/2013/07/19/fashion-sensei/) on August 6, 2017 . Retrieved September 16, 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "FARFETCH - the Global Destination for Modern Luxury" (http://www.style.com/stylefile/2008/08/rei-kawakubo-puts-her-stamp-on-louis-vuitton/) . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Comme des Garcons for H&M" (https://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2008/04/03/comme-des-garcons-for-handm) . April 3, 2008. ^ (#cite_ref-10) "Harajuku Fashion was ranked 5th in the fashion field of Google Search of the Year in 2019" (https://trends.google.com/trends/yis/2019/US/) . January 4, 2020 . Retrieved January 14, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Kodona" (https://web.archive.org/web/20120317165549/http://www.lolitafashion.org/kodona.html) . Archived from the original (http://www.lolitafashion.org/kodona.html) on March 17, 2012. ^ (#cite_ref-12) DIGIMBAYEVA, ANELIYA (August 3, 2018). "Japanese Street Fashion" (https://streetwearchick.com/japanese-street-fashion/) . STREETWEARCHICK . Retrieved April 9, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) "Oshare Kei" (https://www.jame-world.com/en/article/79280-oshare-kei.html) . JaME-World.com. April 18, 2010. ^ (#cite_ref-14) "Grimoire Shibuya - Japanese Dolly-kei & Vintage Fashion Wonderland" (http://tokyofashion.com/grimoire-shibuya-japanese-dolly-kei-vintage-fashion-wonderland/) . Tokyofashion.com. March 13, 2010 . Retrieved December 11, 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) McInnes, Paul (November 16, 2011). "Spank! – Japanese "80s Pop Disco" Fashion in Tokyo" (http://tokyofashion.com/spank-japanese-fashion-brand/) . tokyofashion.com . Retrieved March 28, 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) SHOJI, KAORI (February 8, 2010). "Cult of the Living Doll in Tokyo" (https://www.nytimes.com/2010/02/09/fashion/09iht-fdoll.html?_r=1) . NY Times . Retrieved March 30, 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) "Jirai Kei: Japan's Edgy Fashion" (https://honeywardrobe.com/blogs/guides/jirai-kei-japans-edgy-fashion) . honeywardrobe . October 13, 2023 . Retrieved December 30, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) "The Secrets Of Drunken Landmine Girls" (https://www.novelcool.com/novel/The-Secrets-Of-Drunken-Landmine-Girls.html) . novelcool . Retrieved December 30, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) Amanda Arambulo (September 13, 2021). "What Is Jirai Makeup? Japan's Landmine Girl Trend Popularised By Tsubasa Masukawa" (https://cooljp.co/article/jirai-makeup-tsubasa-masukawa-cj-8382) . cooljp.co . Retrieved December 30, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-20) Devil Inspired (October 18, 2022). "What is Jirai Kei?" (https://www.devilinspired.com/blog/Harajuku-Fashion-Japanese-Street-Fashion/what-is-jirai-kei.html) . devilinspired . Retrieved December 30, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-21) "Harajuku Pop - 今話題のピープス女子って何?! かわいくかっこよくなれる注目新ジャンルを徹底調査" (https://harajuku-pop.com/23331) . August 2, 2020. ^ (#cite_ref-22) "Designer profile : Cabinet by Tomoko Yamanaka" (https://web.archive.org/web/20120203005744/http://www.londonfashionweek.co.uk/designer_profile.aspx?DesignerID=263) . London Fashion Week. September 21, 2011. Archived from the original (http://www.londonfashionweek.co.uk/designer_profile.aspx?DesignerID=263) on February 3, 2012 . Retrieved December 11, 2011 . 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Woman's ensemble consisting of trousers and coat or jacket "Pants suit" redirects here. For the lawsuit about a pair of pants, see Pearson v. Chung (/wiki/Pearson_v._Chung) . The examples and perspective in this article deal primarily with the United States (/wiki/United_States) and the United Kingdom (/wiki/United_Kingdom) and do not represent a worldwide view (/wiki/Wikipedia:WikiProject_Countering_systemic_bias) of the subject . You may improve this article (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Pantsuit&action=edit) , discuss the issue on the talk page (/wiki/Talk:Pantsuit) , or create a new article (/wiki/Wikipedia:Article_wizard) , as appropriate. ( March 2020 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Hillary Clinton (/wiki/Hillary_Clinton) wears a pantsuit at a 2016 campaign (/wiki/Hillary_Clinton_presidential_campaign,_2016) rally. Part of a series (/wiki/Category:Formal_wear) on Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) and corresponding attires (/wiki/Clothing) Formal (/wiki/Formal_wear) ( full dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) White tie (/wiki/White_tie) Morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) Full dress uniform (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) Frock coat (/wiki/Frock_coat) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Ball gown (/wiki/Ball_gown) Semi-formal (/wiki/Semi-formal_wear) ( half dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) Black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) Black lounge suit (/wiki/Black_lounge_suit) Mess dress uniform (/wiki/Mess_dress_uniform) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Informal (/wiki/Informal_wear) ( undress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) , "dress clothes") Suit (/wiki/Suit) Service dress uniform (/wiki/Service_dress_uniform) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Pantsuit Casual (/wiki/Casual_wear) (anything not above) Business casual (/wiki/Business_casual) Casual Friday (/wiki/Casual_Friday) Combat uniform (/wiki/Combat_uniform) Smart casual (/wiki/Smart_casual) Workwear (/wiki/Workwear) Streetwear (/wiki/Streetwear) Sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear) known as Sportswear (fashion) (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) and Athleisure (/wiki/Athleisure) Undress (/wiki/Undress_code) Supplementary alternatives Ceremonial dress (/wiki/Ceremonial_dress) law courts (/wiki/Court_dress) royal courts (/wiki/Court_uniform_and_dress_in_the_United_Kingdom) diplomatic (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) academic (/wiki/Academic_dress) , etc. Religious clothing (/wiki/Religious_clothing) cassock (/wiki/Cassock) , habit (/wiki/Religious_habit) , etc. Folk costume (/wiki/Folk_costume) Distinctions Orders (/wiki/Order_(distinction)) medals (/wiki/Medal) , etc. Legend: = Day (before 6 p.m.) = Evening (after 6 p.m.) = Bow tie (/wiki/Bow_tie) colour = Ladies = Gentlemen Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) v t e A pantsuit , also known as a trouser suit outside the United States (/wiki/United_States) , is a woman's suit (/wiki/Suit_(clothes)) of clothing (/wiki/Clothing) consisting of pants (/wiki/Pants) and a matching or coordinating coat (/wiki/Coat_(clothing)) or jacket (/wiki/Jacket) . In the past, the prevailing fashion for women included some form of a coat, paired with a skirt or dress—hence the name pantsuit . History [ edit ] The pantsuit was introduced in the 1920s, when a small number of women adopted a masculine style (/wiki/1920s_in_Western_fashion#The_boyish_figure) , including pantsuits, hats (/wiki/Hat) , canes (/wiki/Walking_stick) and monocles (/wiki/Monocle) . However, the term "trouser suit" had been used in Britain during the First World War (/wiki/First_World_War) , with reference to women working in heavy industry (/wiki/Heavy_industry) . [1] (#cite_note-1) During the 1960s pantsuits for women became increasingly widespread. Designers such as Foale and Tuffin (/wiki/Foale_and_Tuffin) in London and Luba Marks (/wiki/Luba_Marks) in the United States were early promoters of trouser suits. [2] (#cite_note-V&A_02-2) [3] (#cite_note-eugenia-3) In 1966 Yves Saint-Laurent (/wiki/Yves_Saint-Laurent_(designer)) introduced his Le Smoking (/wiki/Le_Smoking) , an evening pantsuit for women that mimicked a man's tuxedo (/wiki/Tuxedo_(clothing)) . [4] (#cite_note-alexander-4) Whilst Saint-Laurent is often credited with introducing trouser suits, it was noted in 1968 that some of his pantsuits were very similar to designs that had already been offered by Luba Marks (/wiki/Luba_Marks) , [5] (#cite_note-cat-5) and the London designer Ossie Clark (/wiki/Ossie_Clark) had offered a trouser suit for women in 1964 that predated Saint Laurent's 'Le Smoking' design by two years. [6] (#cite_note-6) In Britain a social watershed was crossed [ citation needed ] in 1967 when Lady Chichester, wife of the navigator Sir Francis Chichester (/wiki/Francis_Chichester) , wore a trouser suit when her husband was publicly knighted (/wiki/Knighthood) by Queen Elizabeth II (/wiki/Elizabeth_II) . [7] (#cite_note-7) Pantsuits were often deprecated as inappropriately masculine clothing for women. For example, until 1993, women were not permitted to wear pantsuits (or pants of any kind) on the United States Senate (/wiki/United_States_Senate) floor. [8] (#cite_note-8) [9] (#cite_note-articles.chicagotribune.com-9) [10] (#cite_note-rollcall-10) In 1993, Senators Barbara Mikulski (/wiki/Barbara_Mikulski) and Carol Moseley Braun (/wiki/Carol_Moseley_Braun) wore pants onto the floor in defiance of the rule, and female support staff followed soon after, with the rule being amended later that year by Senate Sergeant-at-Arms Martha Pope (/wiki/Martha_Pope) to allow women to wear pants on the floor so long as they also wore a jacket, thus allowing pantsuits, among other types of clothing. [9] (#cite_note-articles.chicagotribune.com-9) [10] (#cite_note-rollcall-10) Hillary Clinton (/wiki/Hillary_Clinton) , who is well known for wearing pantsuits, once referred to her presidential campaign staff as "The Sisterhood of the Traveling Pantsuits" (in her August 26, 2008 speech at the Democratic National Convention), a play on The Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants (/wiki/The_Sisterhood_of_the_Traveling_Pants) . [11] (#cite_note-11) During the 2016 Presidential election, the pantsuit became a symbolic rallying cry among supporters of Hillary Clinton, many of whom donned pantsuits when they went to the polls to cast their ballots. This was in part due to the influence of a Facebook (/wiki/Facebook) group of 2.9 million Hillary Clinton supporters called Pantsuit Nation (/wiki/Pantsuit_Nation) . [12] (#cite_note-12) [13] (#cite_note-13) [14] (#cite_note-14) [15] (#cite_note-15) See also [ edit ] Business wear (/wiki/Business_wear) Trousers as women's clothing (/wiki/Trousers_as_women%27s_clothing) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Henrietta Heald, 'For England's Sake', History Today , October 2014, page 33 ^ (#cite_ref-V&A_02_2-0) "Marion Foale & Sally Tuffin" (http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/m/marion-foale-and-sally-tuffin/) . V&A . Retrieved 15 July 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-eugenia_3-0) Sheppard, Eugenia (/wiki/Eugenia_Sheppard) (12 September 1966). "Ballerina is Heroine of Medium Price Coat" (https://www.newspapers.com/clip/2026662/the_daily_timesnews/) . The Daily Times-News, Burlington . Retrieved 20 March 2015 – via Newspapers.com (/wiki/Newspapers.com) . ^ (#cite_ref-alexander_4-0) Alexander, Hilary. "Smoke Without Fire." (http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG3347959/Smoke-without-fire.html) The Telegraph (Dec. 12, 2005). ^ (#cite_ref-cat_5-0) Milinaire, Caterine (30 September 1968). "Let the Winners Lead the Way" (https://books.google.com/books?id=aMcDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA27) . New York Magazine : 27–29 . Retrieved 20 March 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Watt, Judith (2003). Ossie Clark, 1965-74 . London: V&A Publications. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781851774074 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Francis Chichester Knighted (1967) . British Pathé. July 1967. Archived (https://ghostarchive.org/varchive/youtube/20211221/vNWCcMGWG_I) from the original on 2021-12-21 . Retrieved 2017-07-30 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) Robin Givhan (20 July 2007) "Hillary Clinton's Tentative Dip Into New Neckline Territory" (https://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2007/07/19/AR2007071902668.html) Washington Post ^ Jump up to: a b Robin Givhan (2004-01-21). "Moseley Braun: Lady in red" (http://articles.chicagotribune.com/2004-01-21/features/0401210033_1_carol-moseley-braun-wore-jacket) . Chicago Tribune . Retrieved 2016-11-10 . ^ Jump up to: a b Foster, Cassandra (2005-06-09). "The Long and Short of Capitol Style" (https://archive.today/20140726010220/http://www.rollcall.com/features/50th-Anniversary_2005/fifty_anniversary/-9592-1.html) . Roll Call. Archived from the original (http://www.rollcall.com/features/50th-Anniversary_2005/fifty_anniversary/-9592-1.html) on 2014-07-26. ^ (#cite_ref-11) AUG. 26, 2008 (2008-08-26). "Hillary Rodham Clinton's Democratic Convention Speech - The New York Times" (https://www.nytimes.com/2008/08/26/us/politics/26text-clinton.html?pagewanted=print&_r=0) . The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . Retrieved 2016-11-07 . {{ cite web (/wiki/Template:Cite_web) }} : CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_numeric_names:_authors_list) ) ^ (#cite_ref-12) Kaufman, Sarah L. (2016-10-07). " (https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/arts-and-entertainment/wp/2016/10/07/pantsuit-power-flashmob-video-for-hillary-clinton-two-women-170-dancers-no-police/) 'Pantsuit Power' flashmob video for Hillary Clinton: Two women, 170 dancers and no police" (https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/arts-and-entertainment/wp/2016/10/07/pantsuit-power-flashmob-video-for-hillary-clinton-two-women-170-dancers-no-police/) . The Washington Post . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0190-8286 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0190-8286) . Retrieved 2016-12-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) "Hillary Clinton Pantsuit Flash Mob Hits NYC" (http://people.com/politics/hillary-clinton-pantsuit-flash-mob-nyc/) . PEOPLE.com . 2016-10-07 . Retrieved 2016-12-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) Ernst, Douglas. "Hillary Clinton 'Pantsuit Power' activists flashmob to Justin Timberlake song in NYC" (http://www.washingtontimes.com/news/2016/oct/7/hillary-clinton-pantsuit-power-activists-flashmob-/) . The Washington Times . Retrieved 2016-12-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) Herreria, Carla (2016-10-04). "Hillary Clinton-Inspired Flash Mob Is Pro-Pantsuit, Anti-Donald Trump" (http://www.huffingtonpost.com/entry/hillary-clinton-flash-mob-union-square_us_57f3075ce4b01b16aafeab04) . The Huffington Post . 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American manufacturer of sportswear Jockey International, Inc. Jockey International Inc. in 2015 Company type Private company Industry Textile (/wiki/Textile_industry) Predecessor S.T. Cooper & Sons Founded 1876 ; 148 years ago ( 1876 ) (as Coopers Inc.) St. Joseph, Michigan (/wiki/St._Joseph,_Michigan) , U.S. Founder Samuel T. Cooper Headquarters Kenosha, Wisconsin , U.S. Number of locations 100 outlet stores Key people Debra Waller ( Chairman (/wiki/Chairman) & CEO (/wiki/CEO) ) Mark Fedyk ( President (/wiki/President_(corporate_title)) & COO (/wiki/Chief_operating_officer) ) Products Underwear and related products for men, women, boys, and girls Production output Central America, the Caribbean, United Kingdom, and the United States Revenue US$443.2 million [1] (#cite_note-Hoover's-1) Number of employees 5,555 Website www (https://www.jockey.com/) .jockey (https://www.jockey.com/) .com (https://www.jockey.com/) Footnotes / references [2] (#cite_note-Jockey-2) Jockey International, Inc. is an American manufacturer (/wiki/Manufacturer) and retailer (/wiki/Retailer) of underwear (/wiki/Underwear) , sleepwear (/wiki/Sleepwear) , and sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) for men, women, and children. The company is based in Kenosha, Wisconsin (/wiki/Kenosha,_Wisconsin) . [3] (#cite_note-3) [4] (#cite_note-4) [5] (#cite_note-5) Jockey invented the first men's Y-Front brief (/wiki/Briefs) in 1934 and it is a recognized trademark (/wiki/Trademark) in 120 countries. History [ edit ] Jockey was originally named Coopers, Inc. , and was founded by Samuel T. Cooper in St. Joseph, Michigan (/wiki/St._Joseph,_Michigan) [6] (#cite_note-6) in 1876 as a hosiery (/wiki/Hosiery) business. Cooper began the business after hearing that lumberjacks (/wiki/Lumberjack) suffered from poorly constructed wool (/wiki/Wool) socks. In 1900, Cooper began making undergarments (/wiki/Underwear) . By 1902 the business was expanding. However, by 1934 Coopers Inc. was nearly bankrupt (/wiki/Bankrupt) due to the Great Depression (/wiki/Great_Depression) . The company recruited Harry H. Wolf Sr., to restructure the company. On January 19, 1935, during a blizzard (/wiki/Blizzard) , Coopers, Inc. sold the world's first briefs (/wiki/Briefs) at the Marshall Field's (/wiki/Marshall_Field%27s) State Street store in downtown Chicago (/wiki/Chicago) . Designed by so-called 'apparel engineer' Arthur Kneibler, briefs dispensed with leg sections and had a Y-shaped overlapping fly. [7] (#cite_note-Independent-7) The company dubbed it the Jockey , claiming it offered support like a jockstrap (/wiki/Jockstrap) . Over 30,000 pairs were sold within three months of their introduction. Coopers used a Mascul-liner plane to deliver masculine support briefs to retailers across the US. When they were introduced to the UK in 1938, they sold 3,000 a week. [7] (#cite_note-Independent-7) In 1958, the company introduced the first mass-sale men's bikini brief, known as 'Skants'. The low-cut nylon and elastic brief, inspired by women's bikinis, had no front fly and was unlined apart from a small support panel at the lower front. Skants sold well in the 1960's and into the 1970's especially in the US and the UK. Initially manufactured in white, blue, and black, Skants were eventually produced in a wider variety of colors. They were popular with gay men at a time in which homosexuality was widely illegal. Skants were modified in the early 1970's to reduce the slightly raised join in the elastic on the hips (the new design was called 'Skants St Tropez'), but this brief was never popular because it lacked the support of the earlier design, and eventually succumbed to competition. Jockey still produces Skants, mostly cotton, for sale in several countries including South Africa and New Zealand. Coopers renamed itself Jockey Menswear, Inc. in 1971, and Jockey International, Inc. the following year. [8] (#cite_note-8) In 1997 Jockey acquired the seamless panties division of Formfit (/wiki/Formfit) -Rogers, and sold them under the name Form-Fit (this branding was later discontinued). [9] (#cite_note-9) In 1982, Jockey introduced the Jockey For Her line of intimate apparel and underwear. [10] (#cite_note-Belkin1986-10) In August 2020, country singer Luke Bryan (/wiki/Luke_Bryan) became a paid corporate spokesperson for the Jockey brand. [11] (#cite_note-11) In October 2020, Jockey International's India and its affiliate Page Industries were investigated by the US-based Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production (WRAP) over allegations of human rights violations in one of its factories. [12] (#cite_note-12) In December 2020, Page Industries Ltd., the licensee of Jockey International in India, was recertified by Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production (WRAP) and found to be socially compliant. WRAP said human rights violations allegations were not substantiated by the findings of the audit. [13] (#cite_note-13) Divisions [ edit ] In 2000, Jockey began selling products online. Jockey manufactured Life and Formfit brands temporarily for Walmart (/wiki/Walmart) and Target (/wiki/Target_Corporation) . Jockey continues manufacturing the Life brand of men's underwear but discontinued the women's line in 2002. Jockey continues to manufacture both men's and women's lines for Target under the JKY brand. In 2005, Jockey introduced its direct-selling division jockeyp2p.com. [14] (#cite_note-14) The independent sales force, known as Comfort Specialist Consultants , sells products for women. Product lines include outerwear, sportswear, activewear, and accessories. Jockey International Chairman and CEO Debra S. Waller founded Jockey Person to Person. In India (/wiki/India) , Page Industries Ltd. (/wiki/Page_Industries) is the licensee for Jockey. Philanthropy [ edit ] Jockey sponsors the Jockey Being Family Foundation, a charity focused on supporting families after they have adopted a child. Jockey claims that the foundation increases awareness of and accessibility to post-adoption services in the United States for adoptive families. The foundation distributes Jockey-branded backpacks and tote bags to a number of adopted children and adoptive parents. Jockey does not disclose how much funding it gives to the foundation. [15] (#cite_note-15) [16] (#cite_note-16) Models [ edit ] Pierre Abena [17] (#cite_note-17) Caio Cesar [18] (#cite_note-18) Tommy Clune [19] (#cite_note-clune-goulding-kasser-steimle-19) Nathalie Darcas [20] (#cite_note-20) Anthony David [21] (#cite_note-21) Mallory Edens [22] (#cite_note-22) Davey Fisher [23] (#cite_note-23) Rachelle Goulding [19] (#cite_note-clune-goulding-kasser-steimle-19) Jeff Kasser [19] (#cite_note-clune-goulding-kasser-steimle-19) Philippe Leblond [24] (#cite_note-24) Tailyn Andrea Mapp [25] (#cite_note-25) Summer Marshall [26] (#cite_note-26) Gigi Paris [27] (#cite_note-27) Victoria Raemy [28] (#cite_note-28) Eduardo Ramos [29] (#cite_note-29) Alden Steimle [19] (#cite_note-clune-goulding-kasser-steimle-19) Chanel Celaya Watkins [30] (#cite_note-watkins-yates-30) Malia Williams [31] (#cite_note-31) Clara Wilsey [32] (#cite_note-32) Aurélie Wulff [33] (#cite_note-33) James Yates [34] (#cite_note-34) Paige Yates [35] (#cite_note-35) See also [ edit ] Clothing portal (/wiki/Portal:Clothing) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) List of sock manufacturers (/wiki/List_of_sock_manufacturers) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-Hoover's_1-0) "Financials Information for Jockey International, Inc" (http://www.hoovers.com/company-information/cs/revenue-financial.Jockey_International_Inc.ce84190101a3d54b.html) . Jockey International, Inc. Revenue and Financial Data . Hoover's Inc . Retrieved 30 October 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-Jockey_2-0) "History of Jockey International, Inc" (http://www.fundinguniverse.com/company-histories/jockey-international-inc-history/) . Company Histories . Funding Universe . Retrieved 29 October 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) " Terms and Conditions (http://www.jockey.com/CustomerService/TermsAndConditions) ." Jockey International. Retrieved on July 28, 2013. "2300 60th Street Kenosha, Wisconsin 53141-1417" ^ (#cite_ref-4) " Corporate Information (http://www.jockey.com/en-us/corporateinfo/) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20110702141805/http://www.jockey.com/en-us/corporateinfo/) 2011-07-02 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ." Jockey International. Retrieved on October 4, 2010. ^ (#cite_ref-5) " Celebrate the 4th of July (http://www.jockey.com/directmail/070110_July4/070110_July4_share.html) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20110716214359/http://www.jockey.com/directmail/070110_July4/070110_July4_share.html) 2011-07-16 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ." Jockey International. Retrieved on October 4, 2010. "Jockey International, Inc. - PO Box 1417 - 2300 60th Street - Kenosha, WI" ^ (#cite_ref-6) Matuszak, John (2014-10-19). "Saving Stella" (http://www.heraldpalladium.com/news/local/saving-stella/article_ffa58ac7-3300-5b21-921b-a259defdb57f.html) . The Herald-Palladium (/wiki/The_Herald-Palladium) . Retrieved 2014-10-19 . ^ Jump up to: a b Rushton, Susie (2008-01-22). "A brief history of pants: Why men's smalls have always been a subject of concern" (https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/features/a-brief-history-of-pants-why-mens-smalls-have-always-been-a-subject-of-concern-771772.html) . The Independent (/wiki/The_Independent) (Extra). pp. 2–5. Archived (https://ghostarchive.org/archive/20220609/https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/features/a-brief-history-of-pants-why-mens-smalls-have-always-been-a-subject-of-concern-771772.html) from the original on 2022-06-09. ^ (#cite_ref-8) "Our History" (https://www.jockey.com/ourcompany/ourhistory) . ^ (#cite_ref-9) Jockey acquires Appel's Formfit seamless panties. (Jockey International Inc.; I. Appel Corp.) ^ (#cite_ref-Belkin1986_10-0) Belkin, Lisa (1986-08-24). "Lingerie's Great Leap Forward" (https://www.nytimes.com/1986/08/24/business/lingerie-s-great-leap-forward.html) . The New York Times . Retrieved 2012-10-17 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Jockey International Taps Luke Bryan As Brand Ambassador" (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/jockey-x-luke-bryan-1203704358/) . wwd . 21 August 2020 . Retrieved 2 September 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Jockey's India partner Page Industries faces probe by US watchdog over rights abuse allegations" (https://www.newindianexpress.com/business/2020/oct/15/jockeys-india-partner-page-industries-faces-probe-by-us-watchdog-over-rights-abuse-allegations-2210638.html) . New Indian Express . 15 October 2020 . Retrieved 23 October 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) "U.S. Watchdog Re-Certifies Jockey's India Partner Page Industries' Unit as Socially Compliant" (https://www.bloombergquint.com/business/us-watchdog-re-certifies-jockey-s-india-partner-page-industries-unit-as-socially-compliant) . 14 December 2020. ^ (#cite_ref-14) "Jockey p2p" (http://jockeyp2p.com) . ^ (#cite_ref-15) "Jockey Being Family" (http://jockeybeingfamily.com/) . Jockey Being Family . ^ (#cite_ref-16) Doris Hajewski. " Family history motivates Jockey CEO to encourage adoption (http://www.jsonline.com/business/70120532.html) ". Milwaukee Journal Sentinel , November 14, 2009. Retrieved March 16, 2016. ^ (#cite_ref-17) "Recharge and reset in comfortable basics. Easy to layer while providing incredible softness" (https://www.instagram.com/p/Cv9egbqNqsH) . ^ (#cite_ref-18) "What we look like enjoying the last bit of the weekend" (https://www.instagram.com/p/CldPg5GOLmj) . ^ Jump up to: a b c d "Ho! Ho! Ho! Have you found who you are kissing under the mistletoe?" (https://www.instagram.com/p/BcTEm0rDCed) . ^ (#cite_ref-20) "@natdarcas in the Natural Beauty Seamfree Bralette and Hipster underwear that is so buttery soft you will never want to take it off!" (https://www.instagram.com/p/B8WizhbhLR2) . ^ (#cite_ref-21) "We're winter ready in our Jockey® Thermal T-Shirt and Jockey® Thermal Long John. Stay warm in these base layers, whether you're hitting the slopes or reading by the fireplace" (https://www.instagram.com/p/C03u1iwMere) . ^ (#cite_ref-22) "A Forever Fit bra is the perfect balance of coverage and comfort. Really, who says you can't have both?" (https://www.instagram.com/p/CgD70q1jcaS) . ^ (#cite_ref-23) "Stay active with comfortable solutions for workouts, hanging with friends and everything in-between" (https://www.instagram.com/p/Cot_VMisz3A) . ^ (#cite_ref-24) "Look no further for boxers that fit right. The Jockey® Everyday Woven Boxer is soft, 100% cotton fabric with a classic button fly. Plus, it's now available in a 2 pack" (https://www.instagram.com/p/CztDNq0uunN) . ^ (#cite_ref-25) "Looking for soft and seamfree support? Our Jockey® Modern Micro Seamfree™ Padded Bralette gives both" (https://www.instagram.com/p/Cwhhi2sxEe1) . ^ (#cite_ref-26) "The Jockey® Cushion Wire Full Coverage Bra is designed for comfort and support" (https://www.instagram.com/p/Cwrt3AOsv1c) . ^ (#cite_ref-27) "Everything @msgigiparis wants for Christmas in one cute and cozy" (https://www.instagram.com/p/B6TS17QhzX8) . ^ (#cite_ref-28) "Base layers count as getting dressed, right?" (https://www.instagram.com/p/CmQ0j0kuR7H) . ^ (#cite_ref-29) "Enjoy a softer, more comfortable you in the Jockey® T-Shirt. The semi-fitted style makes it perfect for layering" (https://www.instagram.com/p/C0L85v0MzZi) . ^ (#cite_ref-watkins-yates_30-0) "Sneak peak of fall florals coming soon!" (https://www.instagram.com/p/CB3OabjhRrv) . ^ (#cite_ref-31) "Girl put your records on" (https://www.instagram.com/p/CVx9KH9FUUd) . ^ (#cite_ref-32) "C'mon in, the water's fine" (https://www.instagram.com/p/CfdlVJWuAGI) . ^ (#cite_ref-33) "Welcome to Day 6 of our advent giveaway!" (https://www.instagram.com/p/BcXzpSzDchN) . ^ (#cite_ref-34) "@yatesy17 getting in his Wednesday workout in Microfiber Active. The best underwear for beating the heat" (https://www.instagram.com/p/B1JoQkgF13O) . ^ (#cite_ref-35) "Start your day comfortable in our elegant Parisienne Classic Camisole. It's soft, lightweight, and breathable" (https://www.instagram.com/p/Cp3HYSfOQem) . 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Clothing trade show in London, England London Fashion Week London Fashion Week Men's in January 2017 Genre Fashion catwalk shows and surrounding events Frequency Semi-annually Location(s) 180 Strand, London (/wiki/London) , United Kingdom (/wiki/United_Kingdom) Inaugurated 1984 (39 years) [1] (#cite_note-Johnson,_David-1) Attendance Over 5,000 press and buyers Organised by British Fashion Council (/wiki/British_Fashion_Council) for the London Development Agency (/wiki/London_Development_Agency) with help from the Department for Business, Energy and Industrial Strategy (/wiki/Department_for_Business,_Energy_and_Industrial_Strategy) Website http://londonfashionweek.co.uk/ (http://londonfashionweek.co.uk/) London Fashion Week ( LFW ) is a clothing trade show (/wiki/Trade_show) that takes place in London (/wiki/London) , UK, twice a year, in February and September. The event showcases over 250 designers to a global audience of influential media and retailers. It is one of the "Big Five" global fashion weeks (/wiki/Fashion_week) alongside Milan (/wiki/Milan_Fashion_Week) , Paris (/wiki/Paris_Fashion_Week) , New York (/wiki/New_York_Fashion_Week) , and Tokyo (/wiki/Tokyo_Fashion_Week) . [2] (#cite_note-2) [3] (#cite_note-RCA-3) [4] (#cite_note-4) History and Organisation [ edit ] Organized by the British Fashion Council (/wiki/British_Fashion_Council) (BFC) for the London Development Agency (/wiki/London_Development_Agency) with help from the Department for Business, Innovation, and Skills (/w/index.php?title=Department_for_Business,_Innovation,_and_Skills&action=edit&redlink=1) , London Fashion Week first took place in February 1984. [1] (#cite_note-Johnson,_David-1) Lynne Franks (/wiki/Lynne_Franks) had influenced the idea of putting together the London shows into a schedule. [5] (#cite_note-:0-5) It currently ranks alongside New York, Paris, and Milan as one of the 'Big Four' fashion weeks (/wiki/Fashion_week) . [6] (#cite_note-6) It presents itself to funders [7] (#cite_note-7) as a trade event that also attracts significant press attention and benefits taxpayers. Over 5,000 press and buyers, with orders of over £100 million. [8] (#cite_note-8) A retail-focused event, London Fashion Week Festival, takes place immediately afterward at the same venue and is open to the general public. [9] (#cite_note-9) During SS16 (shown September 2015) and AW16 (shown February 2016), British Fashion Council (/wiki/British_Fashion_Council) made the decision to host the designers' showrooms at the 'Vinyl Factory', situated at the active car park in Soho, off Brewer Street. [10] (#cite_note-10) Following increasing numbers of anti- fur (/wiki/Fur) protesters, the London Fashion Week held in September 2018 was the first major fashion week to be fur-free. [11] (#cite_note-11) Official Venues [ edit ] Since its inception in 1984, London Fashion Week (LFW) has utilized various official venues. The inaugural event in March 1984 took place in the car park of the Commonwealth Institute in Kensington, featuring 15 catwalk shows from designers such as Vivienne Westwood (/wiki/Vivienne_Westwood) , David Fielden, Ghost, and Betty Jackson (/wiki/Betty_Jackson) . [12] (#cite_note-12) In September 1984, LFW moved to the Duke of York’s Barracks on King’s Road, remaining there for three seasons before relocating to Olympia (/wiki/Olympia_London) in March 1986. [13] (#cite_note-13) The early 1990s recession prompted another move, this time to The Ritz Hotel (/wiki/The_Ritz_Hotel,_London) in 1992, where Alexander McQueen (/wiki/Alexander_McQueen) showcased his work for the first time since his graduate collection. [14] (#cite_note-14) By 1994, the official venue shifted to the grounds of the Natural History Museum (/wiki/Natural_History_Museum,_London) , with marquees set up for runway shows and showrooms. In September 2002, LFW returned to the Duke of York's Headquarters (/wiki/Duke_of_York%27s_Headquarters) on King’s Road, but due to planning permission issues, it relocated to Battersea Park (/wiki/Battersea_Park) in February 2005. [15] (#cite_note-15) [16] (#cite_note-16) In 2009, Somerset House became the new venue, hosting LFW until September 2015, when the event moved to the Brewer Street Car Park in Soho. [17] (#cite_note-17) The venue was changed again in February 2017 to the Store Studios at 180 Strand (/wiki/Strand,_London) , where LFW remained until February 2020. [18] (#cite_note-18) The COVID-19 (/wiki/COVID-19) pandemic led to the cancellation of physical shows in September 2020. The first LFW event with a live audience post-pandemic was in June 2021. Since then, the British Fashion Council (/wiki/British_Fashion_Council) (BFC) has adopted a hybrid digital-physical approach, resulting in no official LFW venue since February 2020. [19] (#cite_note-19) Events [ edit ] Portrait of a female model made at London Fashion Week in 2016 Live Streaming [ edit ] In 2009, Burberry returned from showing in Milan to showing in London and the show was live-streamed. This began an era of “see now, buy now” shows. [5] (#cite_note-:0-5) In spring 2010, London Fashion Week became the first of the “Big Four” fashion weeks to offer designers showing collections on the catwalk at Somerset House (/wiki/Somerset_House) the opportunity to broadcast their shows live on the Internet. [20] (#cite_note-20) London Fashion Week Men's [ edit ] In June 2012, the British Fashion Council launched London Collections: Men, styled LC:M, which included Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter shows. By June 2015, LC:M had 77 designers showing, a 67% increase since its launch in 2012. [21] (#cite_note-21) The event's name was changed to London Fashion Week Men's for the Autumn/Winter 2017 collections, which launched in January 2017, to better reflect the event's growing consumer focus. [22] (#cite_note-22) London Fashion Week Festival [ edit ] Following London Fashion Week each season, the 4-day London Fashion Week Festival (LFWF), formerly known as London Fashion Weekend, offers a consumer-orientated fashion week experience. [23] (#cite_note-23) Held at The Store Studios, 180 The Strand, LFWF allows consumers to shop a curated edit of designer collections at show-exclusive prices, sit front row at catwalk shows by London Fashion Week designers, get a head start on the key trends of the coming season and listen to talks by industry experts. [24] (#cite_note-24) See also [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Fashion weeks (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Fashion_weeks) . Wikimedia Commons has media related to Fashion events (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Fashion_events) . Fashion week (/wiki/Fashion_week) List of fashion events (/wiki/List_of_fashion_events) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b Johnson, David (1 December 1983). "Eight For 84 – Identifying the best of Britain's young designer talent" (https://shapersofthe80s.com/seismic-shifts/1983-crucial-tipping-point-for-the-uks-fashion-first-team/) . The Face, issue 44, page 46 . London . Retrieved 14 November 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Santosa, Olly G. "5 of the Most Famous Fashion Events in the World" (https://www.tatlerasia.com/style/fashion/5-of-the-most-famous-fashion-events-in-the-world) . Tatler Asia (in Indonesian) . Retrieved 30 December 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-RCA_3-0) "Fashioning the City: Exploring Fashion Cultures, Structures and Systems" (http://fashioningthecity.wordpress.com/call-for-papers/) . Royal College of Art. 27 January 2012 . Retrieved 2 May 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Fashion Week: le quattro settimane della moda nel mondo" (https://www.lifeandpeople.it/2017/08/03/fashion-week-nel-mondo/) (in Italian). 3 August 2017 . Retrieved 28 December 2021 . ^ Jump up to: a b Mower, Sarah (March 2024). "Talk of the Town". Vogue . UK. ^ (#cite_ref-6) "British Fashion Council website" (https://web.archive.org/web/20110708094732/http://www.britishfashioncouncil.com/content.aspx?CategoryID=420) . Archived from the original (http://www.britishfashioncouncil.com/content.aspx?CategoryID=420) on 8 July 2011 . Retrieved 10 March 2010 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "Agreement for Funding Relative to Creative Sector Support – Designer Fashion. Parties: LDA/BFC website" (http://www.whatdotheyknow.com/request/london_fashion_week_biannual_upd#comment-7716) . 2 November 2009 . Retrieved 7 June 2010 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "London Fashion Week factsheet" (http://www.londonfashionweek.co.uk/uploads/documents/doc_1747.pdf) (PDF) . Retrieved 10 March 2010 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "London Fashion Weekend website" (http://www.londonfashionweekend.co.uk/) . London Fashion Weekend . Retrieved 10 March 2010 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "Ikon London Magazine London Fashion Week coverage" (http://www.ikonlondonmagazine.com/london-fashion-week-lessons-not-learned/) . Ikon London Magazine. 22 February 2016 . Retrieved 3 March 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) Conlon, Scarlett (7 September 2018). "London fashion week vows to be fur-free" (https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2018/sep/07/london-fashion-week-vows-to-be-fur-free) . the Guardian . Retrieved 10 September 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Celebrating 32 Years of London Fashion Week" (https://artsandculture.google.com/story/celebrating-32-years-of-london-fashion-week/QAUBadOMdMMCLQ) . Google Arts & Culture . Retrieved 17 July 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) Kotsoni, Elektra (15 February 2024). "How London Fashion Week began: An oral history" (https://www.voguebusiness.com/story/fashion/how-london-fashion-week-began-an-oral-history) . Vogue Business . Retrieved 17 July 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) Jana, Rosalind (13 September 2019). "A Brief History Of London Fashion Week" (https://www.vogue.co.uk/arts-and-lifestyle/article/history-of-london-fashion-week) . British Vogue . Retrieved 17 July 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) Vogue (11 September 2002). "ROYAL ATTENDANCE AT LONDON FASHION WEEK" (https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/royal-attendance-at-london-fashion-week) . British Vogue . Retrieved 17 July 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) FashionUnited (13 January 2005). "London Fashion Week" (https://fashionunited.uk/news/fashion/london-fashion-week/2005011336862) . FashionUnited . Retrieved 17 July 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) "London Fashion Week is leaving Somerset House" (https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/fashion-news/news/a34271/london-fashion-week-is-leaving-somerset-house/) . Harper's BAZAAR . 27 April 2015 . Retrieved 17 July 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) "Everything You Need To Know About London Fashion Week AW17" (https://www.elle.com/uk/fashion/trends/articles/a33832/everything-you-need-to-know-about-london-fashion-week-aw17/) . ELLE . 17 February 2017 . Retrieved 17 July 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) "LFW: Everything you might have missed from the weekend" (https://www.rte.ie/lifestyle/fashion/2021/0614/1228014-lfw-everything-you-might-have-missed-from-the-weekend/) . 14 June 2021. {{ cite journal (/wiki/Template:Cite_journal) }} : Cite journal requires |journal= ( help (/wiki/Help:CS1_errors#missing_periodical) ) ^ (#cite_ref-20) Rice, Simon (19 February 2010). "Independent newspaper article" (https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/news/london-fashion-week-to-be-streamed-live-1904888.html) . The Independent . London . Retrieved 10 March 2010 . ^ (#cite_ref-21) Doig, Stephen (5 June 2015). "LCM and London's menswear renaissance" (https://web.archive.org/web/20150606130622/http://www.telegraph.co.uk/luxury/mens-style/70664/london-collections-men-ss16-preview.html) . The Daily Telegraph . Archived from the original (https://www.telegraph.co.uk/luxury/mens-style/70664/london-collections-men-ss16-preview.html) on 6 June 2015 . Retrieved 28 August 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-22) "London Collections: Men to be renamed" (https://fashionunited.uk/news/fashion/london-collections-men-to-be-renamed/2016061320720) . 13 June 2016. ^ (#cite_ref-23) Julius, Freddie (28 January 2018). "London Fashion Week Festival" (https://www.touristengland.com/london-fashion-week-festival-february/) . Tourist England . Retrieved 11 April 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-24) Stacey, Danielle; Symester, Chantelle (31 January 2019). "London Fashion Week 2019 - what you need to know and all the unmissable events" (https://www.mirror.co.uk/3am/style/celebrity-fashion/london-fashion-week-tickets-schedule-11998393) . mirror . Retrieved 11 April 2023 . External links [ edit ] Media related to London Fashion Week (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:London_Fashion_Week) at Wikimedia Commons v t e Fashion weeks (/wiki/Fashion_week) By location "Big four" New York (/wiki/New_York_Fashion_Week) London Milan (/wiki/Milan_Fashion_Week) Paris (/wiki/Paris_Fashion_Week) Others Amsterdam (/wiki/Amsterdam_Fashion_Week) Australia (/wiki/Australian_Fashion_Week) Boston (/wiki/Boston_Fashion_Week) Brisbane (/wiki/Mercedes-Benz_Fashion_Festival_Brisbane) Berlin (/wiki/Berlin_Fashion_Week) Colombo (/wiki/Colombo_Fashion_Week) Copenhagen (/wiki/Copenhagen_Fashion_Week) Detroit (/wiki/Detroit_Fashion_Week) India (/wiki/India_Fashion_Week) Jakarta (/wiki/Jakarta_Fashion_Week) Kuala Lumpur (/wiki/Kuala_Lumpur_Fashion_Week) Lagos (/wiki/Lagos_Fashion_Week) Lahore and Karachi (/wiki/PFDC_Sunsilk_Fashion_Week) Los Angeles (/wiki/Los_Angeles_Fashion_Week) Madrid (/wiki/Madrid_Fashion_Week) Malta (/w/index.php?title=Malta_Fashion_Week&action=edit&redlink=1) Mexico City (/wiki/Fashion_Week_Mexico_City) Miami (/wiki/Mercedes-Benz_Fashion_Week_Miami) New Zealand (/wiki/New_Zealand_Fashion_Week) Ottawa (/wiki/Ottawa_Fashion_Week) Port Harcourt, Nigeria (/wiki/Port_Harcourt_International_Fashion_Week) Rio de Janeiro (/wiki/Rio_Fashion_Week) São Paulo (/wiki/S%C3%A3o_Paulo_Fashion_Week) Sibiu, Romania (/wiki/Feeric_Fashion_Week) Singapore (/wiki/Singapore_Fashion_Week) Shanghai (/wiki/Shanghai_Fashion_Week) Shenzhen (/w/index.php?title=Shenzhen_Fashion_Week&action=edit&redlink=1) Tbilisi (/wiki/Tbilisi_Fashion_Week) Toronto (/wiki/Toronto_Fashion_Week) Vancouver (/wiki/Vancouver_Fashion_Week) Yangon, Myanmar (/wiki/Myanmar_International_Fashion_Week) See also List of fashion events (/wiki/List_of_fashion_events) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6f54559974‐tslq2 Cached time: 20240720174301 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.470 seconds Real time usage: 0.602 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 2235/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 60788/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 2264/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 14/100 Expensive parser function count: 4/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 99223/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.304/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 6471753/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 535.944 1 -total 38.56% 206.635 1 Template:Reflist 29.25% 156.758 19 Template:Cite_web 16.91% 90.621 1 Template:Big_4_Fashion_Weeks 16.33% 87.524 1 Template:Navbox 12.99% 69.621 1 Template:Short_description 12.52% 67.116 2 Template:Commons_category 12.12% 64.949 2 Template:Sister_project 11.65% 62.436 2 Template:Side_box 9.69% 51.928 1 Template:Infobox_recurring_event Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:3407469-0!canonical and timestamp 20240720174301 and revision id 1235027394. 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Lace-making technique Hairpin lace on frame Hairpin lace is a lace-making technique that uses a crochet hook (/wiki/Crochet_hook) and two parallel metal rods held at the top and the bottom by removable bars. Historically, a metal U-shaped eponymous (/wiki/Eponymous) hairpin (/wiki/Hairpin_cotter) was used. Hairpin lace is formed by wrapping yarn (/wiki/Yarn) around the prongs of the hairpin lace loom to form loops (/wiki/Loop_(knot)) , which are held together by a row of crochet stitches worked in the center, called the spine. [1] (#cite_note-1) The resulting piece of lace can be worked to any length desired by removing the bottom bar of the hairpin and slipping the loops off the end. The strips produced by this process can be joined together to create an airy and lightweight fabric. Various types of yarns and threads can be used to achieve different color, texture and design effects. Examples of items made with hairpin lace include scarves, shawls, hats, baby blankets, afghans, and clothing. Hairpin lace can also be added to sewn, knitted, and crocheted works as a decorative accent. References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Reader's Digest. Complete Guide to Needlework . The Reader's Digest Association, Inc. (March 1992). ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-89577-059-8 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-89577-059-8) External links [ edit ] Media related to Hairpin lace (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Hairpin_lace) at Wikimedia Commons v t e Crochet (/wiki/Crochet) Tools Crochet hook (/wiki/Crochet_hook) Cro-hook (/wiki/Cro-hook) Hook gauge (/wiki/Hook_gauge) List of yarns for crochet and knitting (/wiki/List_of_yarns_for_crochet_and_knitting) Scissors (/wiki/Scissors) Stitch marker (/wiki/Stitch_marker_(crochet)) Techniques and motifs Bead crochet (/wiki/Bead_crochet) Blocking (/wiki/Blocking_(textile_arts)) Gauge (/wiki/Gauge_(knitting)) Granny square (/wiki/Granny_square) List of crochet stitches (/wiki/List_of_crochet_stitches) Shell stitch (/wiki/Shell_stitch) Tapestry crochet (/wiki/Tapestry_crochet) Tunisian crochet (/wiki/Tunisian_crochet) Items Amigurumi (/wiki/Amigurumi) Noken or Bilum (/wiki/Noken) Doily (/wiki/Doily) Crocheted lace Broomstick lace (/wiki/Broomstick_lace) Crocheted lace (/wiki/Crocheted_lace) Filet crochet (/wiki/Filet_crochet) Hairpin lace Irish crochet (/wiki/Irish_lace) Related Crochet thread (/wiki/Crochet_thread) Dye lot (/wiki/Dye_lot) Yarn (/wiki/Yarn) v t e Lace (/wiki/Lace) types Needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Punto in Aria (/wiki/Punto_in_Aria) Point de Venise (/wiki/Point_de_Venise) Point de France (/wiki/Point_de_France) Alençon (/wiki/Alen%C3%A7on_lace) Aemilia Ars (/w/index.php?title=Aemilia_Ars&action=edit&redlink=1) Argentan (/wiki/Argentan_lace) Argentella (/wiki/Argentella) Armenian (/wiki/Armenian_needlelace) Burano (https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merletto%20di%20Burano) Halas lace (/wiki/Halas_lace) Hedebo embroidery (/wiki/Hedebo_embroidery) Hollie Point (/wiki/Hollie_Point) Nallıhan (/wiki/Nall%C4%B1han_silk_needlelace) Point de Gaze (/wiki/Point_de_Gaze) Kenmare Lace (/wiki/Kenmare_lace) Ñandutí (/wiki/%C3%91andut%C3%AD) Oya (/wiki/Oya_(lace)) Pag (/wiki/Pag_lace) Puncetto Valsesiano (/w/index.php?title=Puncetto_Valsesiano&action=edit&redlink=1) Tenerife (/wiki/Tenerife_lace) Youghal (/wiki/Youghal_lace) Embroidery (/wiki/Embroidery) Buratto (/wiki/Buratto) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Reticella (/wiki/Reticella) Limerick (/wiki/Limerick_lace) Needlerun net (/wiki/Needlerun_net) Tambour (/wiki/Tambour_lace) Cutwork (/wiki/Cutwork) Broderie anglaise (/wiki/Broderie_anglaise) Carrickmacross (/wiki/Carrickmacross_lace) Lefkara lace (/wiki/Lefkara_lace) Saba lace (/wiki/Saba_lace) Bobbin lace (/wiki/Bobbin_lace) Mesh grounds (/wiki/Mesh_grounded_bobbin_lace) Torchon (/wiki/Torchon_lace) Freehand (/wiki/Freehand_lace) Arras (/wiki/Arras_lace) Bayeux (/wiki/Bayeux_lace) Beeralu (/w/index.php?title=Beeralu&action=edit&redlink=1) Blonde (/wiki/Blonde_lace) Bucks point (/wiki/Bucks_point_lace) Chantilly (/wiki/Chantilly_lace) Chefoo (/w/index.php?title=Chefoo_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Cogne (/wiki/Cogne_lace) Tønder (/wiki/T%C3%B8nder_lace) Beveren (/wiki/Beveren_lace) Lille (/wiki/Lille_lace) Binche (/wiki/Binche_lace) Flanders (/wiki/Flanders_lace) Paris (/wiki/Paris_lace) Valenciennes (/wiki/Valenciennes_lace) Antwerp (/wiki/Antwerp_lace) Mechlin (/wiki/Mechlin_lace) Ipswich (/wiki/Ipswich_lace) 's Gravenmoer (/w/index.php?title=%27s_Gravenmoer_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Mundillo (/wiki/Mundillo) Guipure (/wiki/Guipure) Greek (/wiki/Greek_lace) Genoese (/wiki/Genoese_lace) Bedfordshire (/wiki/Bedfordshire_lace) Cluny (/wiki/Cluny_lace) Dentelle du Puy (https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dentelle_du_Puy) Liptov (/wiki/Liptov) Maltese (/wiki/Maltese_lace) Yak lace (/wiki/Yak_lace) Part laces (/wiki/Part_lace) Honiton (/wiki/Honiton_lace) Bruges (/wiki/Bruges_lace) Brussels (/wiki/Brussels_lace) Rosaline (/wiki/Rosaline_lace) Point d'Angleterre (/wiki/Brussels_lace#Point_d'Angleterre) Tape (/wiki/Bobbin_tape_lace) Cantù (/w/index.php?title=Cant%C3%B9_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Milanese (/wiki/Milanese_bobbin_lace) Hinojosa (/w/index.php?title=Hinojosa_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Russian (/wiki/Russian_lace) Idrija (/wiki/Idrija_lace) Schneeberg (/wiki/Schneeberg_lace) Peasant (/w/index.php?title=Peasant_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Tape lace (/wiki/Tape_lace) Mezzopunto (/w/index.php?title=Mezzopunto&action=edit&redlink=1) Princess (/wiki/Princess_lace) Renaissance (/wiki/Renaissance_lace) Battenberg (/wiki/Battenberg_lace) Romanian point (/wiki/Romanian_point_lace) Branscombe (/wiki/Branscombe_lace) Crocheted lace (/wiki/Crocheted_lace) Broomstick lace (/wiki/Broomstick_lace) Irish crochet (/wiki/Irish_lace) Hairpin Filet crochet (/wiki/Filet_crochet) Orvieto lace (/w/index.php?title=Orvieto_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Machine (/wiki/Lace_machine) -made lace Bobbinet (/wiki/Bobbinet) Leavers (/wiki/Leavers_machine) Pusher (/wiki/Pusher_machine) Barmen (/wiki/Barmen_lace_machine) Curtain Machine (/wiki/Nottingham_lace_curtain_machine) Chemical (/wiki/Chemical_lace) Raschel (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Stocking Frame (/wiki/Stocking_frame) Warp Knit (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Other handmade laces Metal laces (/wiki/Metal_lace) Lace knitting (/wiki/Lace_knitting) Macramé (/wiki/Macram%C3%A9) Tatting (/wiki/Tatting) Punto a groppo (/wiki/Punto_a_groppo) Sprang (/wiki/Sprang) Liturgical lace (/wiki/Liturgical_lace) Media related to Lace (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Lace) at Wikimedia Commons Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Clothing portal (/wiki/Portal:Clothing) This textile arts (/wiki/Textile_arts) article is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . 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Sportswear The Masuri Group Original Series MKII cricket helmet Helmets (/wiki/Helmet) in cricket (/wiki/Cricket) were developed in the 20th century. History [ edit ] There are recorded instances of cricketers using scarves and padded caps to protect themselves throughout cricket history. Patsy Hendren (/wiki/Patsy_Hendren) was one of the first to use a self-designed protective hat in the 1930s. Helmets were not in common use until the 1970s. The first helmets were seen in World Series Cricket (/wiki/World_Series_Cricket) , with Dennis Amiss (/wiki/Dennis_Amiss) being the first player to consistently wear a helmet which was a customised motorcycle helmet. [1] (#cite_note-1) [2] (#cite_note-econ2014-2) Mike Brearley (/wiki/Mike_Brearley) was another player who wore his own design. Tony Greig (/wiki/Tony_Greig) was of the opinion that they would make cricket more dangerous by encouraging bowlers to bounce (/wiki/Bouncer_(cricket)) the batsmen. Graham Yallop (/wiki/Graham_Yallop) of Australia was the first to wear a protective helmet to a test match (/wiki/Test_cricket) on 17 March 1978, when playing against West Indies (/wiki/West_Indies_cricket_team) at Bridgetown (/wiki/Bridgetown) . [3] (#cite_note-Telegraph-3) Later Dennis Amiss of England popularised it in Test cricket. Helmets began to be widely worn thereafter. The last batsmen at the highest (Test match) level to never wear a helmet throughout his career was Viv Richards (/wiki/Viv_Richards) , who retired from the international game in 1991. A number of career ending injuries including to Craig Spearman (/wiki/Craig_Spearman) and Craig Kieswetter (/wiki/Craig_Kieswetter) and research from the England and Wales Cricket Board [4] (#cite_note-4) led to the current improvements seen in modern day helmets. Modern day cricket helmets [ edit ] Dane Anderson (/wiki/Dane_Anderson) of the Tasmanian Tigers (/wiki/Tasmanian_Tigers) wearing a helmet Modern day cricket helmets are made in compliance with the recent safety standards of the International Cricket Council (/wiki/International_Cricket_Council) (ICC) [5] (#cite_note-5) and have to conform to the British Standard (/wiki/British_Standards) BS7928:2013. Materials used for making cricket helmets are impact resistance materials like ABS Plastic, Fibreglass, carbon fibre, titanium, steel and high density foam etc. Main parts of a cricket helmets are grill (made with steel, titanium or carbon fibre), chin strap, inner foam material, outer impact resistant shell etc. In 2019 new standards for helmets were published British Standards (/wiki/British_Standards) BS7928:2013+A1:2019 This provided the introduction of standards for neck protectors to be worn as part of the head protector. The development, testing, manufacturer and accredited standard was brought in expediently as an additional safety feature, following the tragic death of the Australian international batsmen Phillip Hughes (/wiki/Phillip_Hughes) . Neck protectors are worn as an attachment to modern helmets and grilles and cover a vulnerable area at the base of the skull. As of October 2022, England and Wales Cricket Board (/wiki/England_and_Wales_Cricket_Board) mandated the use of the additional neck protectors in all instance of batting and close fielding. Legislation [ edit ] As of 2023, the ICC has made wearing Of Helmets a must For High-Risk Positions which are: (a) batting against fast or medium paced bowling; (b) wicket-keeping up to the stumps; and (c) fielding in a position closer than seven metres from the batter’s position on the popping crease on a middle stump line (such as short leg or silly point), with the exception of any fielding position behind square of the wicket on the off side. [6] (#cite_note-6) In all cricket, as of 2016, England (/wiki/England_and_Wales_Cricket_Board) requires all batsmen, wicketkeepers and fielders closer than 8 yards from the wicket to wear helmets. [7] (#cite_note-7) [8] (#cite_note-8) This is mandatory even when facing medium-pace and spin bowling. [9] (#cite_note-9) New Zealand (/wiki/New_Zealand_Cricket) and India (/wiki/Board_of_Control_for_Cricket_in_India) do not require batsmen to wear helmets. [10] (#cite_note-10) [11] (#cite_note-11) [12] (#cite_note-12) Australia (/wiki/Cricket_Australia) requires helmets to be worn by batsmen if facing fast or medium-paced bowling; wicketkeepers if keeping up to the stumps; and all fielders in positions within 7 metres of the batsman, with the exception of any fielding position behind square of the wicket on the off side. [13] (#cite_note-13) Opposition from players [ edit ] Many players refused to wear helmets, either believing that they obstructed their vision when batting, or, just as in the similar debate in ice hockey, feeling helmets were unmanly, a view held by many spectators. Englishman Dennis Amiss (/wiki/Dennis_Amiss) was the first player to wear a helmet in the modern game, during a World Series Cricket (/wiki/World_Series_Cricket) match, for which both the crowd and other players mocked him. [14] (#cite_note-14) Australian captain Graham Yallop (/wiki/Graham_Yallop) was booed when he wore one in a 1978 match against the West Indies (the first time a helmet was worn in a test match) and West Indian captain Viv Richards (/wiki/Viv_Richards) viewed such protection as cowardly. [15] (#cite_note-auto-15) India captain Sunil Gavaskar (/wiki/Sunil_Gavaskar) believed that helmets slowed down a batsman's reflexes and refused to wear one. [16] (#cite_note-16) In more recent times, many batsmen have felt that modern helmet designs have become increasingly obstructive. Most notably, England captain Alastair Cook (/wiki/Alastair_Cook) for a time refused to wear a new helmet complying with ICC safety regulations since he felt it was distracting and uncomfortable. [17] (#cite_note-17) His England teammate Jonathan Trott (/wiki/Jonathan_Trott) also refused for similar reasons, and teammate Nick Compton (/wiki/Nick_Compton) (a close friend of Phillip Hughes (/wiki/Phillip_Hughes) ) felt that the new regulations were overzealous. [18] (#cite_note-18) Cricket helmet manufacturers [ edit ] There are a number of cricket helmet manufacturers and brands available. Some of them are Gunn & Moore (/wiki/Gunn_%26_Moore) , Sanspareils Greenlands (/wiki/Sanspareils_Greenlands) , and Sareen Sports Industries (/wiki/Sareen_Sports_Industries) . Many professional cricket players choose to wear the Masuri cricket helmet with the brand being worn by approximately 70% of players competing in the 2019 Cricket World Cup (/wiki/2019_Cricket_World_Cup) . [ citation needed ] Masuri are also the original inventors of the first neck protector [ citation needed ] , an additional piece of protective equipment that attaches to the back of the cricket helmet, when they launched their Stem Guard in 2015. See also [ edit ] Cricket portal (/wiki/Portal:Cricket) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Batting helmet (/wiki/Batting_helmet) for Baseball or Softball References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Briggs, Simon. "Amiss unearths helmet that changed the game" (https://www.telegraph.co.uk/sport/cricket/2358790/Amiss-unearths-helmet-that-changed-the-game.html) . Telegraph.co.uk . Retrieved 15 January 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-econ2014_2-0) "The bravery of the batsman" (https://www.economist.com/blogs/gametheory/2014/11/safety-cricket) . The Economist (/wiki/The_Economist) . 26 November 2014 . Retrieved 26 November 2014 . until the late 1970s helmets were unheard of; batsmen wore nothing to protect their noggins except a cloth cap. When they began to creep into the game—Dennis Amiss, an English batsman, is usually cited as the first to wear one regularly during the 1978 World Series Cricket tournament—they were essentially adapted motorcycle helmets. Batsmen who donned them were sometimes mocked as cowards. ^ (#cite_ref-Telegraph_3-0) "England opener Michael Carberry's space-age helmet turns heads" (http://www.dailytelegraph.com.au/sport/cricket/england-opener-michael-carberrys-spaceage-helmet-turns-heads/story-fni2fnmo-1226766113541) . The Daily Telegraph (Sydney) (/wiki/The_Daily_Telegraph_(Sydney)) . News Corp Australia (/wiki/News_Corp_Australia) . 22 November 2013 . Retrieved 8 December 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Ranson, Craig; Peirce, Nicholas; Young, Mark (2013-07-01). "Batting head injury in professional cricket: a systematic video analysis of helmet safety characteristics" (https://bjsm.bmj.com/content/47/10/644) . British Journal of Sports Medicine . 47 (10): 644–648. doi (/wiki/Doi_(identifier)) : 10.1136/bjsports-2012-091898 (https://doi.org/10.1136%2Fbjsports-2012-091898) . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0306-3674 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0306-3674) . PMID (/wiki/PMID_(identifier)) 23418269 (https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/23418269) . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "ICC announces new regulations for helmet safety" (http://www.espncricinfo.com/ci-icc/content/story/1077774.html) . Cricinfo . Retrieved 2017-04-20 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "ICC Announces New Rules: Soft Signal Scrapped, Wearing Helmets Mandatory for Certain Positions" (https://www.news18.com/cricketnext/cricket-new-rules-soft-signal-free-hit-helmets-mandatory-sourav-ganguly-icc-committee-7823647.html) . News18 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "ECB confirms professional cricketers must wear helmets" (http://www.espncricinfo.com/england/content/story/944579.html) . Espncricinfo.com . Retrieved 13 August 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "Helmets must be worn by professional cricketers in England next season" (https://www.theguardian.com/sport/2015/nov/27/helmets-professional-cricketers-england-wales) . The Guardian (/wiki/The_Guardian) . 27 November 2015 . Retrieved 13 August 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Helmet use to be made mandatory in first-class cricket in England" (https://www.bbc.co.uk/sport/cricket/34940416) . Bbc.co.uk . 26 November 2015 . Retrieved 13 August 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "New Zealand Cricket to bring in new safety measures, but helmets set to stay optional" (http://www.stuff.co.nz/sport/cricket/80228221/new-zealand-cricket-to-bring-in-new-safety-measures-but-helmets-set-to-stay-optional) . Stuff.co.nz . 23 May 2016 . Retrieved 13 August 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "CRICKET WELLINGTON - New Zealand Cricket's Helmet Policy" (https://web.archive.org/web/20180311005824/http://www.cricketwellington.co.nz/helmet-policy/) . Cricketwellington.co.nz . 17 November 2016. Archived from the original (http://www.cricketwellington.co.nz/helmet-policy/) on 11 March 2018 . Retrieved 13 August 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Cricket is a game but life isn't: BCCI must learn from the past to make helmets compulsory at all levels" (http://www.firstpost.com/firstcricket/sports-news/cricket-is-game-life-isnt-bcci-learn-from-john-ward-make-helmets-compulsory-at-all-levels-2591892.html) . Firstpost.com . 22 January 2016 . Retrieved 13 August 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) Cricket Australia (2016). "14: State Clothing and Equipment Regulations". Playing Handbook 2016-2017 . p. 304. Players representing Australia must wear a helmet at all times when: (a) batting against fast or medium faced bowling; (b) wicket-keeping up to the stumps; and (c) fielding in a position closer than seven metres from the batter's position on the popping crease on a middle stump line (such as short leg or silly point), with the exception of any fielding position behind square of the wicket on the off side. ^ (#cite_ref-14) "Archived copy" (https://web.archive.org/web/20171206155345/https://www.redbull.com/in-en/a-brief-history-of-helmets-and-cricket) . Red Bull (/wiki/Red_Bull) . Archived from the original (https://www.redbull.com/in-en/a-brief-history-of-helmets-and-cricket) on 2017-12-06 . Retrieved 2017-12-06 . {{ cite web (/wiki/Template:Cite_web) }} : CS1 maint: archived copy as title ( link (/wiki/Category:CS1_maint:_archived_copy_as_title) ) ^ (#cite_ref-auto_15-0) Linden, Julian (28 November 2014). "Cricket-Batsman's death turns attention on helmets" (https://uk.reuters.com/article/cricket-helmets/cricket-batsmans-death-turns-attention-on-helmets-idUKL3N0TI2H520141128) . Uk.reuters.com . Retrieved 13 August 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) "Gavaskar didn't wear helmets because of reading habit" (http://indiatoday.intoday.in/story/Gavaskar+didnt+wear+helmets+because+of+reading+habit/1/70728.html) . India Today . Retrieved 13 August 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) Selvey, Mike (15 April 2016). "Alastair Cook treads a fine line with his batting helmet stubbornness - Mike Selvey" (https://www.theguardian.com/sport/blog/2016/apr/15/alastair-cook-batting-helmet-ecb) . The Guardian (/wiki/The_Guardian) . Retrieved 13 August 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) Hoult, Nick (18 April 2016). "Jonathan Trott joins Alastair Cook in rejecting new safety approved helmet" (https://www.telegraph.co.uk/cricket/2016/04/18/jonathan-trott-joins-alastair-cook-in-rejecting-new-safety-appro/) . Telegraph.co.uk . Retrieved 13 August 2018 . Wikimedia Commons has media related to Cricket helmets (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Cricket_helmets) . v t e Helmets (/wiki/Helmet) Individual historical helmets Agighiol (/wiki/Helmet_of_Agighiol) Agris (/wiki/Agris_Helmet) Benty Grange (/wiki/Benty_Grange_helmet) Broe (/wiki/Broe_helmet) Canterbury (/wiki/Canterbury_helmet) Ciumeşti (/wiki/Celts_in_Transylvania#Helmet_of_Ciumeşti) Coppergate (/wiki/Coppergate_Helmet) Coțofenești (/wiki/Helmet_of_Co%C8%9Bofene%C8%99ti) Coventry Sallet (/wiki/Coventry_Sallet) Crosby Garrett (/wiki/Crosby_Garrett_Helmet) Emesa (/wiki/Emesa_helmet) Gevninge (/wiki/Gevninge_helmet_fragment) Gjermundbu (/wiki/Gjermundbu_helmet) Guilden Morden (/wiki/Guilden_Morden_boar) Guisborough (/wiki/Guisborough_Helmet) Hallaton (/wiki/Hallaton_Helmet) Hellvi (/wiki/Hellvi_helmet_eyebrow) Henry VIII's Horned (/wiki/Horned_helmet_of_Henry_VIII) Horncastle (/wiki/Horncastle_boar%27s_head) Iron Gates (/wiki/Helmet_of_Iron_Gates) Lokrume (/wiki/Lokrume_helmet_fragment) Meyrick (/wiki/Meyrick_Helmet) Nemiya (/wiki/Nemiya_Helmet) Newstead (/wiki/Newstead_Helmet) Nijmegen (/wiki/Nijmegen_Helmet) Peretu (/wiki/Helmet_of_Peretu) Pioneer (/wiki/Pioneer_Helmet) Ribchester (/wiki/Ribchester_Helmet) Shorwell (/wiki/Shorwell_helmet) Staffordshire (/wiki/Staffordshire_helmet) Sutton Hoo (/wiki/Sutton_Hoo_helmet) Tjele (/wiki/Tjele_helmet_fragment) Veksø (/wiki/Veks%C3%B8_helmets) Venetian (/wiki/S%C3%BCleyman_the_Magnificent%27s_Venetian_Helmet) Waterloo (/wiki/Waterloo_Helmet) Witcham Gravel (/wiki/Witcham_Gravel_helmet) Yarm (/wiki/Yarm_helmet) Combat (/wiki/Combat_helmet) Ancient Attic (/wiki/Attic_helmet) Boar's tusk (/wiki/Boar%27s_tusk_helmet) Boeotian (/wiki/Boeotian_helmet) Chalcidian (/wiki/Chalcidian_helmet) Coolus (/wiki/Coolus_helmet) Corinthian (/wiki/Corinthian_helmet) Galea (/wiki/Galea_(helmet)) Illyrian (/wiki/Illyrian_type_helmet) Imperial (/wiki/Imperial_helmet) Kegelhelm (/wiki/Kegelhelm) Konos (/wiki/Konos) Late Roman ridge (/wiki/Late_Roman_ridge_helmet) Montefortino (/wiki/Montefortino_helmet) Negau (/wiki/Negau_helmet) Phrygian (/wiki/Phrygian_helmet) Pilos (/wiki/Pileus_(hat)) Shmarjet (/wiki/Shmarjet) Medieval and Early Modern Armet (/wiki/Armet) Aventail (/wiki/Aventail) Barbute (/wiki/Barbute) Bascinet (/wiki/Bascinet) Burgonet (/wiki/Burgonet) Cervelliere (/wiki/Cervelliere) Close (/wiki/Close_helmet) Dragoon (/wiki/Dragoon_helmet) Enclosed (/wiki/Enclosed_helmet) Falling buffe (/wiki/Falling_buffe) Frog-mouth (/wiki/Frog-mouth_helm) Germanic boar (/wiki/Germanic_boar_helmet) Great (/wiki/Great_helm) Hounskull (/wiki/Bascinet#Hounskull) Jingasa (/wiki/Jingasa) Kabuto (/wiki/Kabuto) Katapu (/wiki/Katapu) Kettle (/wiki/Kettle_hat) Kulah khud (/wiki/Kulah_khud) Lamellenhelm (/wiki/Lamellenhelm) Lobster-tailed pot (/wiki/Lobster-tailed_pot_helmet) Mempo (/wiki/Men-yoroi) Morion (/wiki/Morion_(helmet)) Nasal (/wiki/Nasal_helmet) Paseki (/wiki/Paseki) Pickelhaube (/wiki/Pickelhaube) Sallet (/wiki/Sallet) Secrete (/wiki/Secrete_(helmet)) Spangenhelm (/wiki/Spangenhelm) Takula tofao (/wiki/Takula_tofao) Turban (/wiki/Turban_helmet) Viking (/wiki/Viking_Age_arms_and_armour#Helmet) Late Modern Dragoon (/wiki/Dragoon_helmet) Pickelhaube (/wiki/Pickelhaube) Pith helmet (/wiki/Pith_helmet) Tarleton helmet (/wiki/Tarleton_helmet) 1914–1945 Adrian (/wiki/Adrian_helmet) Brodie (/wiki/Brodie_helmet) M36 (Bulgaria) (/wiki/Bulgarian_M36_helmet) M32 (Czechoslovakia) (/wiki/Czechoslovakian_M32_helmet) M1923 (Denmark) (/wiki/M1923_helmet_(Denmark)) Stahlhelm (Germany) (/wiki/Stahlhelm) M1934/39 (Greece) (/wiki/Greek_M1934/39_helmet) Helmet Steel Airborne Troop (/wiki/Helmet_Steel_Airborne_Troop) M33 (Italy) (/wiki/M33_helmet) M42 Duperite (/wiki/M42_Duperite_helmet) M1 (/wiki/M1_helmet) M1C (/wiki/M1C_helmet) Mk II talker helmet (/wiki/US_Navy_Mk_II_talker_helmet) Mk III (/wiki/Mk_III_helmet) Netherlands M34 (/wiki/Netherlands_M34) Hełm wz. 31 (/wiki/He%C5%82m_wz._31) M1940 (Portugal) (/wiki/Portuguese_M1940_helmet) RAC (/wiki/RAC_helmet) SSh-36 (/wiki/SSh-36) SSh-39 and SSh-40 (/wiki/SSh-39_and_SSh-40) M1921 (Spain) (/wiki/M1921_helmet_(Spain)) M1926 (Spain) (/wiki/M1926_helmet_(Spain)) M1934 (Spain) (/wiki/M1934_helmet_(Spain)) M1942 Modelo Z (/wiki/M1942_Modelo_Z) SSK 90 (/wiki/SSK_90_helmet) M1926 (Sweden) (/wiki/M1926_helmet_(Sweden)) M1937 (Sweden) (/wiki/M1937_helmet_(Sweden)) L'Eplattenier (/wiki/L%27Eplattenier_helmet) M1918 (Switzerland) (/wiki/Swiss_M1918_Helmet) Type 92 Tetsubo (/wiki/Uniforms_of_the_Imperial_Japanese_Army) 1945–1980 Bangtan Helmet (/wiki/Bangtan_Helmet) CABAL II (/wiki/CABAL_II) Czechoslovak Vz. 53 Helmet (/wiki/Czechoslovak_Vz._53_Helmet) GK80 (/wiki/GK80) Hungarian M70 (/wiki/Hungarian_M70) Romanian M73 helmet (/wiki/Romanian_M73_helmet) JK 96 (/wiki/JK_96_helmet) Mº 44 E.T.A. (/wiki/M%C2%BA_44_E.T.A._de_Paracaidista) M59/85 (/wiki/M59/85) Hełm wz. 50 (/wiki/He%C5%82m_wz._50) Hełm wz. 63 (/wiki/He%C5%82m_wz._63) Hełm wz. 67 (/wiki/He%C5%82m_wz._67) M63 (/wiki/M63_helmet) M76 Para (/wiki/M76_paratrooper_helmet) Mk IV (/wiki/Mk_IV_helmet) Mk 6 (/wiki/Mk_6_helmet) Modèle 1951 (/wiki/Mod%C3%A8le_1951_helmet) Modèle 1978 (/wiki/Mod%C3%A8le_1978_helmet) MPC-1 (/wiki/MPC-1) OR-201 (/wiki/OR-201) Paratrooper (/wiki/Paratrooper_helmet) SSh-60 (/wiki/SSh-60) SSh-68 (/wiki/SSh-68) Swiss M71 (/wiki/Swiss_M1971_Helmet) Type 66 (/wiki/Type_66_helmet) 1980–2000 CG634 (/wiki/CG634) M92 (/wiki/Gefechtshelm_M92) GOLFO (/wiki/GOLFO) M90 (Iraq) (/wiki/Iraqi_M90_helmet) M59/85 (/wiki/M59/85) M87 (/wiki/M87_kevlar_helmet) PASGT (/wiki/Personnel_Armor_System_for_Ground_Troops) Hełm wz. 93 (/wiki/He%C5%82m_wz._93) Hełm wz. 2000 (/wiki/He%C5%82m_wz._2000) Sfera (/wiki/Sfera_(helmet)) SPECTRA (/wiki/SPECTRA_helmet) 6B7 (/wiki/6B7_helmet) 2001–present A2 Helmet (/wiki/A2_Helmet) Advanced Combat Helmet (/wiki/Advanced_Combat_Helmet) BK-3 helmet (/wiki/BK-3_helmet) QGF-03 (/wiki/QGF-03) ECH (Australia) (/wiki/Enhanced_Combat_Helmet_(Australia)) ECH (US) (/wiki/Enhanced_Combat_Helmet_(United_States)) FAST (/wiki/Future_Assault_Shell_Technology_helmet) 6B47 (/wiki/6B47_helmet) Hełm wz. 2005 (/wiki/He%C5%82m_wz._2005) IHPS (/wiki/Integrated_Head_Protection_System) KH-B2000 (/wiki/KH-B2000) Lightweight Helmet (/wiki/Lightweight_Helmet) MICH (/wiki/Modular_Integrated_Communications_Helmet) Mk 7 (/wiki/Mk_7_helmet) Athletic Batting (/wiki/Batting_helmet) Coolflo (/wiki/Coolflo) Boxing / Martial Arts (/wiki/Headgear_(martial_arts)) Bicycle (/wiki/Bicycle_helmet) Cricket Equestrian (/wiki/Equestrian_helmet) Gridiron football (/wiki/Football_helmet) Eyeshield (/wiki/Eyeshield) Revolution (/wiki/Revolution_helmets) Hockey (/wiki/Hockey_helmet) Lacrosse (/wiki/Lacrosse_helmet) Motorcycle (/wiki/Motorcycle_helmet) Racing (/wiki/Racing_helmet) Scrum cap (/wiki/Scrum_cap) Ski (/wiki/Ski_helmet) Work Custodian (/wiki/Custodian_helmet) Diving (/wiki/Diving_helmet) Firefighter's (/wiki/Firefighter%27s_helmet) Hard hat (/wiki/Hard_hat) Riot protection (/wiki/Riot_protection_helmet) Welding (/wiki/Welding_helmet) Other Flight (/wiki/Flight_helmet) Helmet cover (/wiki/Helmet_cover) Mitznefet (/wiki/Mitznefet_(Israeli_military)) Heraldic use (/wiki/Helmet_(heraldry)) Horned (/wiki/Horned_helmet) Mahiole (/wiki/Mahiole) Tarnhelm (/wiki/Tarnhelm) Pith (/wiki/Pith_helmet) American fiber (/wiki/American_fiber_helmet) Winged (/wiki/Winged_helmet) Zuckerman (/wiki/Zuckerman_helmet) v t e Cricket clothing and equipment (/wiki/Cricket_clothing_and_equipment) Equipment Bat (/wiki/Cricket_bat) Ball (/wiki/Cricket_ball) Stump (/wiki/Stump_(cricket)) Bails (/wiki/Bail_(cricket)) Clothing Pads (/wiki/Pads) Helmet Cap (/wiki/Cricket_cap) Whites (/wiki/Cricket_whites) Wicket-keeper's gloves (/wiki/Wicket-keeper%27s_gloves) Others Baggy green (/wiki/Baggy_green) Bowling machine (/wiki/Bowling_machine) Cricket nets (/wiki/Cricket_nets) Hawk-Eye (/wiki/Hawk-Eye) Hot Spot (/wiki/Hot_Spot_(cricket)) Snickometer (/wiki/Snickometer) Stump microphone (/wiki/Stump_microphone) This article about cricket terminology (/wiki/Category:Cricket_terminology) is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . You can help Wikipedia by expanding it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Cricket_helmet&action=edit) . v t e NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6f54559974‐dn54n Cached time: 20240720165628 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.655 seconds Real time usage: 0.794 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1693/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 89824/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 1750/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 14/100 Expensive parser function count: 4/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 90015/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.426/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 5768694/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 663.855 1 -total 38.74% 257.195 1 Template:Reflist 26.19% 173.846 11 Template:Cite_web 21.19% 140.671 3 Template:Navbox 20.29% 134.709 1 Template:Helmets 12.83% 85.188 1 Template:Short_description 8.91% 59.139 2 Template:Citation_needed 7.72% 51.280 1 Template:Commons_category 7.66% 50.862 2 Template:Pagetype 7.62% 50.575 2 Template:Fix Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:3455997-0!canonical and timestamp 20240720165628 and revision id 1198927908. 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T-shirt worn in competition rowing A zephyr is a garment worn in competitive rowing (/wiki/Rowing_(Sport)) . [1] (#cite_note-1) A zephyr is usually a short-sleeved T-shirt (/wiki/T-shirt) with a front opening, with the opening and sleeve ends trimmed in the colours of the club. See also [ edit ] Sports portal (/wiki/Portal:Sports) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Sportswear (activewear) (/wiki/Sportswear_(activewear)) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Zephyr" (https://www.oed.com/dictionary/zephyr_n?tl=true) . Oxford English Dictionary . 2023. This rowing (/wiki/Rowing_(sport)) -related article is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . You can help Wikipedia by expanding it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Zephyr_(garment)&action=edit) . v t e This clothing (/wiki/Clothing) -related article is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . You can help Wikipedia by expanding it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Zephyr_(garment)&action=edit) . v t e NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐58c7647fd9‐lhxv7 Cached time: 20240713043432 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1] CPU time usage: 0.224 seconds Real time usage: 0.291 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 336/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 9048/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 500/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 8/100 Expensive parser function count: 3/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 13533/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.156/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 3399545/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 0/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 267.622 1 -total 34.97% 93.595 1 Template:Reflist 30.89% 82.669 1 Template:Cite_web 27.39% 73.292 1 Template:Short_description 24.41% 65.316 1 Template:Rowing-stub 24.34% 65.127 2 Template:Asbox 15.71% 42.053 2 Template:Pagetype 10.45% 27.966 1 Template:Portal 7.00% 18.742 3 Template:Main_other 6.18% 16.528 1 Template:SDcat Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:3463698-0!canonical and timestamp 20240713043432 and revision id 1210355521. Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Zephyr_(garment)&oldid=1210355521 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Zephyr_(garment)&oldid=1210355521) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Sportswear (/wiki/Category:Sportswear) Tops (clothing) (/wiki/Category:Tops_(clothing)) Rowing stubs (/wiki/Category:Rowing_stubs) Clothing stubs (/wiki/Category:Clothing_stubs) Hidden categories: Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description is different from Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_is_different_from_Wikidata) All stub articles (/wiki/Category:All_stub_articles)

Italian luxury menswear company This article is about the Italian clothier. For the surname, see Canali (surname) (/wiki/Canali_(surname)) . For the village in Azerbaijan, see Canalı (/wiki/Canal%C4%B1) . Canali Industry Tailors (/wiki/Tailors) Founded Italy 1934 Founder The Canali family Headquarters Sovico , Italy Area served Worldwide Key people Paolo Canali (Sales & Marketing Director) Andrea Pompilio (Creative Consultant) Elisabetta Canali (Global Communication Director) Products Luxury Men's Clothing Number of employees 1,500 Website www (http://www.canali.com) .canali (http://www.canali.com) .com (http://www.canali.com) Canali is an Italian (/wiki/Culture_of_Italy) luxury (/wiki/Luxury_goods) menswear (/wiki/Menswear) brand founded in 1934. History [ edit ] Canali was founded in 1934 by the Canali brothers Giovanni, a fabric magnate, and Giacomo, a tailor. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) In the 1950s, the ownership of Canali passed on to the second generation of the family. In the 1970s, Canali was the first Italian tailor to introduce mechanised cutting machines. [2] (#cite_note-Italian_style-2) In 1980, 50% of its sales were international. [3] (#cite_note-modae_invasion-3) In 2007, the company abandoned its family-managed policy. [4] (#cite_note-indiatimes_chord-4) In 2010, New York Yankees (/wiki/New_York_Yankees) pitcher Mariano Rivera (/wiki/Mariano_Rivera) was the spokesmodel for a Canali advertisement campaign, the first time the brand used an athlete for advertising purposes. [5] (#cite_note-Canali_to_Use_Mariano_Rivera_in_Fall_Ads-5) [6] (#cite_note-6) In 2014, Canali opened its first store in Spain (/wiki/Spain) , in Madrid (/wiki/Madrid) , and signed a franchise deal with the Spanish company Yusty. [3] (#cite_note-modae_invasion-3) In 2015, Canali opened a store in Washington, DC. [7] (#cite_note-7) [8] (#cite_note-8) In December 2015, Canali opened its online shop. [9] (#cite_note-9) In October 2017, Canali closed the Carate Brianza factory and dismissed its 134 employees. [10] (#cite_note-10) In November 2017, the company denied rumors it was looking for a buyer. [11] (#cite_note-11) In September 2018, Canali entered the Chinese ecommerce market through a partnership with Secoo (/wiki/Secoo) . [12] (#cite_note-12) Following the outbreak of the coronavirus pandemic (/wiki/Coronavirus_pandemic) , Canali changed its creative strategy for more "homey", casual designs to fit the work-from-home trend. [1] (#cite_note-:0-1) [13] (#cite_note-13) Description [ edit ] A shop of Canali at IFC Mall (/wiki/IFC_Mall_(Hong_Kong)) , Hong Kong Led by the third generation of the family, Canali employs 1,500 people in seven factories in Italy, where it makes about 250,000 individual pieces of clothing annually. [14] (#cite_note-Mencyclopaedia:_Canali-14) In 2012, 87.5% of the total production was exported; [15] (#cite_note-MFfashion.com-15) Canali has 180 boutique stores including 52 in China, [4] (#cite_note-indiatimes_chord-4) and is also distributed through a network of 1,000 retail stores worldwide. [16] (#cite_note-forbes_innovation-16) Canali provides a Su Misura (/wiki/Made-to-measure) service which consists of a tailored-made pieces and personalized artistry to make a piece unique. [16] (#cite_note-forbes_innovation-16) In popular culture [ edit ] Canali suits were worn by Gene Hackman (/wiki/Gene_Hackman) in The Firm (/wiki/The_Firm_(1993_film)) , Arnold Schwarzenegger (/wiki/Arnold_Schwarzenegger) in True Lies (/wiki/True_Lies) , and George Clooney (/wiki/George_Clooney) in Michael Clayton (/wiki/Michael_Clayton_(film)) . [4] (#cite_note-indiatimes_chord-4) See also [ edit ] Made in Italy (/wiki/Made_in_Italy) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b "Stefano Canali: 'The suit is not dead. It's just evolving' (https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/fashion/article/stefano-canali-interview) " (https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/fashion/article/stefano-canali-interview) . British GQ . Retrieved 22 March 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-Italian_style_2-0) Leitch, Luke (23 October 2013). "Road map to success, Italian style" (https://web.archive.org/web/20131025024132/http://www.telegraph.co.uk/luxury/mens-style/7766/road-map-to-success-italian-style.html) . The Telegraph . Archived from the original (https://www.telegraph.co.uk/luxury/mens-style/7766/road-map-to-success-italian-style.html) on 25 October 2013 . Retrieved 13 March 2014 . ^ Jump up to: a b (in Spanish) C. Preja, La italiana Canali se suma a la invasión de la sastrería en España con su primera tienda en Madrid (https://www.modaes.es/empresa/la-italiana-canali-se-suma-a-la-invasion-de-la-sastreria-en-espana-con-su-primera-tienda-en-madrid.html) , Modaes.es , 4 November 2013 ^ Jump up to: a b c Moinak Mitra, Italian luxury brand Canali strikes the Indian chord (https://economictimes.indiatimes.com/italian-luxury-brand-canali-strikes-the-indian-chord/articleshow/6816979.cms) , Indiatimes.com , 27 October 2010 ^ (#cite_ref-Canali_to_Use_Mariano_Rivera_in_Fall_Ads_5-0) "Canali to Use Mariano Rivera in Fall Ads" (http://www.wwd.com/menswear-news/retail-business/canali-to-use-rivera-in-fall-ads-3220077?src=search_links) . WWD. 16 August 2010 . Retrieved 13 March 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Harvey Araton, The Understated Elegance of the Yankees’ Rivera (https://www.nytimes.com/2010/04/26/sports/baseball/26rivera.html) , Nytimes.com , 25 April 2010 ^ (#cite_ref-7) Michael Neibauer, Rejoice, men who enjoy a finely tailored suit: Canali coming to CityCenterDC (https://www.bizjournals.com/washington/breaking_ground/2015/01/rejoice-men-who-enjoy-a-finely-tailored-suit.html) , Bizjournals.com , 30 January 2015 ^ (#cite_ref-8) Yes, We Canali (https://www.urbandaddy.com/articles/34346/washington-dc/canali-yes-we-canali-italian-finery-comes-to-downtown) , Urbandaddy.com , 3 April 2015 ^ (#cite_ref-9) (in Spanish) La tienda online de Canali ya es una realidad (https://www.eleconomista.es/evasion/caprichos/noticias/7163457/11/15/La-tienda-online-de-Canali-ya-es-una-realidad.html) , Eleconomista.es , 6 December 2015 ^ (#cite_ref-10) Sandra Salibian, Canali to Close a Factory, Dismiss 134 Employees (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/canali-to-close-factory-dismiss-134-employees-11029447/) , Wwd.com , 17 October 2017 ^ (#cite_ref-11) Sandra Salibian, Canali Denies Sale Rumors (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/canali-denies-sale-rumors-11056611/) , Wwd.com , 25 November 2017 ^ (#cite_ref-12) Canali Brings Its Italian Designs to Chinese E-commerce (https://jingdaily.com/canali-chinese-e-commerce/) , Jingdaily.com , 28 September 2018 ^ (#cite_ref-13) Canali Chills Out (https://www.esquire.com/style/big-black-book-summer-2024/a60872866/canali-casual-clothing/) Esquire , Nick Sullivan, June 17, 2024 ^ (#cite_ref-Mencyclopaedia:_Canali_14-0) Leitch, Luke (21 June 2013). "Mencyclopaedia: Canali" (https://web.archive.org/web/20131104163110/http://www.telegraph.co.uk/luxury/mens-style/6974/canali-is-a-superpower-of-suiting-and-semi-formal-menswear-worn-by-barack-obama.html) . The Daily Telegraph (/wiki/The_Daily_Telegraph) . Archived from the original (https://www.telegraph.co.uk/luxury/mens-style/6974/canali-is-a-superpower-of-suiting-and-semi-formal-menswear-worn-by-barack-obama.html) on 4 November 2013 . Retrieved 13 March 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-MFfashion.com_15-0) "Canali relaunches at 80 years" (http://www.mffashion.com/en/coverstory/2014/05/28/canali-relaunches-at-80-years) . MFfashion . Retrieved 16 June 2014 . ^ Jump up to: a b Joseph DeAcetis, How Canali Menswear Uses Innovation To Achieve Aesthetic Perfection As Consumers Evolve (https://www.forbes.com/sites/josephdeacetis/2019/07/17/how-canali-menswear-uses-innovation-to-achieve-aesthetic-perfection-as-consumers-evolve/#1f9d1bb0295e) , Forbes.com , 17 June 2019 External links [ edit ] Official website (https://www.canali.com) Portals (/wiki/Wikipedia:Contents/Portals) : Fashion (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Italy (/wiki/Portal:Italy) Companies (/wiki/Portal:Companies) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐c4df98467‐lm65p Cached time: 20240711171707 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.557 seconds Real time usage: 0.714 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1744/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 20952/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 1509/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 13/100 Expensive parser function count: 7/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 30012/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.397/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 17874345/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 663.520 1 -total 48.29% 320.430 1 Template:Reflist 23.25% 154.277 2 Template:In_lang 20.79% 137.964 5 Template:Cite_web 18.91% 125.478 1 Template:Infobox_company 16.85% 111.810 1 Template:Infobox 12.61% 83.694 1 Template:Short_description 7.92% 52.567 1 Template:About 7.47% 49.540 1 Template:Portal_bar 7.33% 48.616 2 Template:Pagetype Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:3490026-0!canonical and timestamp 20240711171707 and revision id 1233928647. Rendering was triggered because: page-view esi <esi:include src="/esitest-fa8a495983347898/content" /> Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Canali&oldid=1233928647 (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Canali&oldid=1233928647) " Categories (/wiki/Help:Category) : Clothing companies of Italy (/wiki/Category:Clothing_companies_of_Italy) Italian suit makers (/wiki/Category:Italian_suit_makers) Luxury brands (/wiki/Category:Luxury_brands) Hidden categories: Articles with Spanish-language sources (es) (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_Spanish-language_sources_(es)) Articles with short description (/wiki/Category:Articles_with_short_description) Short description matches Wikidata (/wiki/Category:Short_description_matches_Wikidata) Use dmy dates from October 2020 (/wiki/Category:Use_dmy_dates_from_October_2020)

Athletic shoe by Reebok Reebok Freestyle Product type Sneakers (/wiki/Sneakers) Owner Reebok (/wiki/Reebok) Introduced 1982 ; 42 years ago ( 1982 ) Related brands Reebok Classics (/wiki/Reebok_Classics) Markets Worldwide Website reebok.com/freestyle (https://www.reebok.com/us/freestyle) Reebok Freestyle is an athletic shoe (/wiki/Sneakers) introduced in 1982 by Reebok (/wiki/Reebok) . The Freestyle was the first sneaker designed (by Angel Martinez [1] (#cite_note-1) ) and marketed for women. [2] (#cite_note-sunsentinel-2) [3] (#cite_note-funding-3) [4] (#cite_note-4) It helped Reebok into the mainstream athletic wear market and fashion scene along with becoming one of the most popular athletic shoes of all time. [5] (#cite_note-5) In 1984, the shoe accounted for more than half of Reebok sales. [6] (#cite_note-sneakerfreaker-6) The Reebok Freestyle was popular during the 1980s aerobics craze (/wiki/1980s_in_fashion#Aerobics_craze) [7] (#cite_note-7) [8] (#cite_note-8) and is still in production and remodeled through various collections and style variations. History [ edit ] Freestyle Hi advertisement of 1985 Released in 1982, the Reebok Freestyle was the first athletic shoe designed for women, even though it has also become fairly popular among males. [3] (#cite_note-funding-3) Martinez and Steve Liggett, head of Reebok production, were instrumental developing the shoe. [9] (#cite_note-9) The shoe was made to accommodate aerobics workouts and was released during the height of the 1980s aerobics craze. [10] (#cite_note-10) Fitness Instructor Denise Austin (/wiki/Denise_Austin) was one first to promote the shoe by wearing them at a sport and fitness exposition in Los Angeles. [11] (#cite_note-11) "I absolutely loved this time in my career, I was the first spokesperson for the very first aerobic shoe," Austin said in a November, 22, 2019 Facebook (/wiki/Facebook) post. [12] (#cite_note-12) [13] (#cite_note-NUP_146596_0010-13) Following the debut and success of the Freestyle, Reebok began sponsoring clinics and workout programs throughout the 1980s and 1990s. The shoes could be seen on the trainers of Jane Fonda workout videos and classes, [2] (#cite_note-sunsentinel-2) [14] (#cite_note-noisey-14) and the Step Reebok workout routine was released in 1989. [15] (#cite_note-15) By 1983, Reebok's sales were over $13 million, accounting for half of the company's total sales [6] (#cite_note-sneakerfreaker-6) and the following year concluded with $66 million in sales. [3] (#cite_note-funding-3) The Freestyle success and the athletic shoe (/wiki/Athletic_shoe) fad of the late 1980s saw new competition from Avia (/wiki/Avia_(shoes)) , LA Gear (/wiki/LA_Gear) , and Nike (/wiki/Nike,_Inc.) . Many competitors, like LA Gear and off-price retailers like Fayva, had models that looked like the Freestyle high-top complete with velcro enclosures. Description [ edit ] The Freestyle debuted as a terrycloth (/wiki/Terrycloth) lined sneaker with "glove-soft" leather designed for aerobics (/wiki/Aerobics) workouts. [2] (#cite_note-sunsentinel-2) The shoe was designed for fitness purposes but became used for casual wear as well. [16] (#cite_note-latimes-16) The shoe comes in two different styles including below the ankle, like a tennis shoe, or the high-top (/wiki/High-top) style that covers the ankle, like a basketball shoe. The Freestyle high-top features two velcro (/wiki/Velcro) straps that fasten around the ankle and is made in women's sizes, but is considered unisex, being also worn by men. [17] (#cite_note-17) Both the low-top and high-top were offered in white, black, red, yellow, blue, pink, orange, and green colors over the years. Athletic use [ edit ] Consumers were impressed with the styling, comfort, and support the shoe provided for working out. The Freestyle's athletic use spread to walking, bodybuilding (/wiki/Bodybuilding) , dance, and cheerleading (/wiki/Cheerleading) . Ms. Olympia (/wiki/Ms._Olympia) Cory Everson (/wiki/Cory_Everson) wore Freestyle high-tops frequently in competition, working out, and on ESPN (/wiki/ESPN) 's BodyShaping program. Reebok (/wiki/Reebok) sponsored the Los Angeles Laker Girls (/wiki/Laker_Girls) in the late 1980s and supplied them with white Freestyle high-tops. Since then, other professional cheerleading and dance teams have used Freestyles. High school and college cheerleading teams have used Freestyles as their shoe of choice. It is also used in competitive aerobics (/wiki/Sports_aerobics) . Casual wear [ edit ] Outside the gym, the Freestyle became popular casual wear. Women could wear Freestyles with jeans, shorts, capri pants, sweatpants, tights or leggings, and even as commuter (/wiki/Commuter) shoes to work. [14] (#cite_note-noisey-14) In the 1980s, Freestyles were often seen with flop or slouch socks (/wiki/Slouch_socks) which were usually stretched over the bottom of the pant leg to help highlight the shoe. Styles [ edit ] Reebok Freestyle in black and orange After the Freestyle's initial debut, Reebok released various collaborations and special edition styles of the shoe. The Freestyle had several special editions released in the 1980s including the Rainbow Suede version. [18] (#cite_note-18) The Freestyle celebrated its 25th anniversary with a special collection of six limited-edition shoes that debuted at a New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) exclusive event in March 2007. The Reebok (/wiki/Reebok) sponsored event called "Freestyle Forever" included celebrity guests such as Cybill Shepherd (/wiki/Cybill_Shepherd) , Brooke Shields (/wiki/Brooke_Shields) , and Tara Reid (/wiki/Tara_Reid) and highlighted moments in past and present Freestyle history. [19] (#cite_note-19) In 2008, Reebok introduced a Freestyle collaboration with the French boutique Colette (/wiki/Colette_(boutique)) and American women's wear company, Married to the Mob. [20] (#cite_note-20) The Reebok Freestyle - Wonder Woman was released in 2009 [21] (#cite_note-21) and had design features such as a red metallic upper with a star-spangled back tab that mimicked the costume of comic book character Diana Prince (/wiki/Diana_Prince) , aka Wonder Woman (/wiki/Wonder_Woman) , and the lace-stay looked similar to the tiara of the superhero while the two gold metallic straps that closely resembled her bracelets. [22] (#cite_note-22) Alicia Keys (/wiki/Alicia_Keys) teamed up with Reebok in 2012 for a collection of different shoes including high-top Freestyles and Freestyle Double Bubble along with Classic Nylon Slim and Princess sneakers. [23] (#cite_note-glamour-23) Reebok introduced collaborations with Takahiro Miyashita and the Sand.W.Man project in 2014 for the Reebok Freestyle high-top and the Reebok Ex-o-Fit released in a signature monochromatic, sandy style look. [24] (#cite_note-24) In 2018, the Netflix (/wiki/Netflix) original series GLOW (/wiki/GLOW_(TV_series)) and Reebok Classics teamed up to create two new Freestyle Hi designs to be worn by characters on the show. [25] (#cite_note-25) Costume designer Beth Morgan shared how the partnership came together: "I reached out to Reebok about product placement since we used the shoes so often in the show to see if they had any reproductions of the authentic shoes. Through those conversations, I said it would be awesome to design shoes that were authentic to the period, and they were all on board... The whole idea behind the collaboration is that the product would be in the show, and we could sell them to our fans after we air." [26] (#cite_note-26) In popular culture [ edit ] Film In Jumpin' Jack Flash (/wiki/Jumpin%27_Jack_Flash_(film)) (1986), Whoopi Goldberg (/wiki/Whoopi_Goldberg) wore high-top red, white, and yellow pairs. [27] (#cite_note-27) In Return of the Killer Tomatoes (/wiki/Return_of_the_Killer_Tomatoes) (1988), Karen M. Waldron (/wiki/Karen_M._Waldron) wore a white, high-top pair through half of the movie. [28] (#cite_note-28) In Frankie and Johnny (/wiki/Frankie_and_Johnny_(1991_film)) (1991), Michelle Pfeiffer (/wiki/Michelle_Pfeiffer) wore a white, high-top pair playing a waitress. The shoes can be seen on movie posters. [29] (#cite_note-29) [30] (#cite_note-30) In Masterminds (/wiki/Masterminds_(2016_film)) (2016), Kristin Wiig (/wiki/Kristin_Wiig) wore a white, high-top pair as part of her 1990s era costume. [31] (#cite_note-31) [32] (#cite_note-32) [33] (#cite_note-33) In The Bad Batch (/wiki/The_Bad_Batch_(film)) (2016), Suki Waterhouse (/wiki/Suki_Waterhouse) wore a white, high-top pair with a prosthetic leg throughout most of the movie. [34] (#cite_note-34) In Chick Fight (/wiki/Chick_Fight) (2020), Malin Åkerman (/wiki/Malin_%C3%85kerman) wore a white, high-top pair throughout most of the movie. [35] (#cite_note-35) [36] (#cite_note-36) Music Rolling Stones front-man Mick Jagger (/wiki/Mick_Jagger) wore a pair of Freestyles in his " Dancing in the Street (/wiki/Dancing_in_the_Street) " video with David Bowie (/wiki/David_Bowie) in 1985. [37] (#cite_note-37) French singer Yelle (/wiki/Yelle) (Julie Budet) wore various colored high-top Freestyles on stage during her concerts. At a 2008 Reebok Freestyle World Tour Collection event, she promoted a special Freestyle Paris edition, which was part of a six fashion-forward city collection. [38] (#cite_note-38) [39] (#cite_note-39) English singer Perrie Edwards (/wiki/Perrie_Edwards) wore a white, high-top pair while performing with Little Mix (/wiki/Little_Mix) on the set of Good Morning America (/wiki/Good_Morning_America) on June 7, 2013. [40] (#cite_note-40) Canadian Singer Kiesza (/wiki/Kiesza) has also been photographed wearing various Freestyle shoes, both casually and in her music video for her single " Hideaway (/wiki/Hideaway_(Kiesza_song)) ". [41] (#cite_note-41) Rapper, singer, and model Iggy Azalea (/wiki/Iggy_Azalea) wore white Freestyle high-tops and her back-up singers wore black high-top pairs while performing " Fancy (/wiki/Fancy_(Iggy_Azalea_song)) " and " Beg for It (/wiki/Beg_for_It_(song)) " at the 2014 American Music Awards (/wiki/American_Music_Awards) . The shoes were paired with retro gym outfits and scrunched down socks. [42] (#cite_note-42) [43] (#cite_note-43) [44] (#cite_note-44) Singer Shakira (/wiki/Shakira) wore a pair of white high-tops to match her 1980s inspired workout outfit in the " Girl Like Me (/wiki/Girl_Like_Me_(Black_Eyed_Peas_and_Shakira_song)) " video, which was released on December 4, 2020. [45] (#cite_note-45) Slang The slang name for the shoes was a "fifty-four elevens" because the retail price for a pair was usually $49.99 and with tax, in New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) , they cost $54.11. [46] (#cite_note-46) Television Actress Cybill Shepherd (/wiki/Cybill_Shepherd) wore a bright orange high-top pair of Reebok Freestyles, with a black strapless gown, at the 1985 Emmy Awards (/wiki/Emmy_Awards) . [47] (#cite_note-47) [48] (#cite_note-48) In 1986, actress Whoopi Goldberg wore a white high-top pair at the 43rd annual Golden Globe Awards (/wiki/Golden_Globe_Awards) . [49] (#cite_note-10773279.jpg-49) Soleil Moon Frye (/wiki/Soleil_Moon_Frye) wore two different colored shoes in combination, like white and black or red and yellow, as the title character of the Punky Brewster (/wiki/Punky_Brewster) television series, which popularized this style. [50] (#cite_note-50) In The Middle (/wiki/The_Middle_(TV_series)) , Sue Heck ( Eden Sher (/wiki/Eden_Sher) ) wore various colors of Reebok Freestyle high-tops throughout the entire 2009 to 2018 run of the series. [51] (#cite_note-51) [52] (#cite_note-52) In The Goldbergs (/wiki/The_Goldbergs_(2013_TV_series)) , Beverly Goldberg ( Wendi McLendon-Covey (/wiki/Wendi_McLendon-Covey) ) regularly wore various high-top pairs through the series. [53] (#cite_note-53) In the 2020 Netflix miniseries The Haunting of Bly Manor (/wiki/The_Haunting_of_Bly_Manor) , Dani Clayton ( Victoria Pedretti (/wiki/Victoria_Pedretti) ) wore a white, high-top pair in eight of the nine episodes. [54] (#cite_note-54) [55] (#cite_note-55) In the second season of La Brea (/wiki/La_Brea_(TV_series)) , Riley Valez ( Veronica St. Clair (/wiki/Veronica_St._Clair) ) wore a white, high-top pair. [56] (#cite_note-56) See also [ edit ] Reebok Classics (/wiki/Reebok_Classics) 1980s in fashion (/wiki/1980s_in_fashion) 1980s portal (/wiki/Portal:1980s) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Does This Shoe Fit?; Reebok Marketing Ace Stamps His Style on Rockport" (https://www.nytimes.com/1995/10/14/business/does-this-shoe-fit-reebok-marketing-ace-stamps-his-style-on-rockport.html) . The Times . October 14, 1995 . Retrieved September 8, 2019 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Hal Rubenstein (September 7, 1986). "Kicking Up Your Heels Never So Stylish As Now" (http://articles.sun-sentinel.com/1986-09-07/features/8602230211_1_african-gazelle-reebok-high-tops-shoes) . Sun Sentinel . Retrieved November 30, 2014 . ^ Jump up to: a b c "Reebok International Ltd. History" (http://www.fundinguniverse.com/company-histories/reebok-international-ltd-history/) . Funding Universe . Retrieved November 30, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "EasyTone Freestyle HI – In shape in style with a special edition sneakers" (http://www.2luxury2.com/easytone-freestyle-hi-in-shape-in-style-with-a-special-edition-sneakers/) . 2 Luxury 2. March 10, 2012 . Retrieved November 30, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Reebok International Ltd" (http://www.hoovers.com/company/Reebok_International_Ltd/rrtjji-1-1njhxk.html) . Hoovers . Retrieved November 30, 2014 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Reebok Freestyle - Museum Recap" (http://www.sneakerfreaker.com/2012/12/reebok-museum-recap/) . Sneaker Freaker. December 31, 2012 . Retrieved November 30, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Matthew Karnitschnig; Stephanie Kang (August 4, 2005). "For Adidas, Reebok Deal Caps Push to Broaden Urban Appeal" (https://online.wsj.com/articles/SB112302261668203106) . The Wall Street Journal (/wiki/The_Wall_Street_Journal) . Retrieved November 30, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) Patrick Johnson (May 31, 2014). "Reebok Freestyle Hi "Exotics" - Black - Metallic Silver" (http://sneakernews.com/2014/05/31/reebok-freestyle-hi-exotics-black-metallic-silver/#more-516857) . Sneaker News . Retrieved November 30, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) Scottie Beam (June 18, 2018). " (https://creative.gimletmedia.com/shows/flipping-the-game/) Flipping the Game " (https://creative.gimletmedia.com/shows/flipping-the-game/) (Podcast). Reebok Classic and Gimlet Creative . Retrieved June 18, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "Reebok Freestyle" (http://www.kicksonfire.com/reebok/reebok-freestyle/) . Kicks On Fire . Retrieved November 30, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) Scottie Beam (June 18, 2018). " (https://creative.gimletmedia.com/shows/flipping-the-game/) Flipping the Game " (https://creative.gimletmedia.com/shows/flipping-the-game/) (Podcast). Reebok Classic and Gimlet Creative . Retrieved June 18, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) Denise Austin (https://www.facebook.com/DeniseAustin) on Facebook (/wiki/Facebook_(identifier)) ^ (#cite_ref-NUP_146596_0010_13-0) "Today" (https://www.gettyimages.com/detail/news-photo/news-fitness-consultant-denise-austin-in-1985-photo-by-r-m-news-photo/141125000) . Getty Images . NBCUniversal . Retrieved October 25, 2021 . ^ Jump up to: a b Nadja Sayej. "Out of the Box: The Rise of Sneaker Culture" (http://noisey.vice.com/es/blog/out-of-the-box-the-rise-of-sneaker-culture) . Noisey by Vice . Retrieved November 30, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) Edward Wong (June 19, 2001). "Nike Trying New Strategies For Women; Company Seeks Merger Of Athletics and Fashion" (https://www.nytimes.com/2001/06/19/business/nike-trying-new-strategies-for-women-company-seeks-merger-athletics-fashion.html) . The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . Retrieved November 30, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-latimes_16-0) Martha Groves (August 3, 1986). "Reebok Sprinting to the Lead: Field of Eager Competitors" (http://articles.latimes.com/1986-08-03/business/fi-1047_1_reebok-international) . Los Angeles Times (/wiki/Los_Angeles_Times) . Retrieved November 30, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) Anne-Marie Schiro (June 15, 1985). "In Athletic Shoes Reebok Leads the Pack" (https://www.nytimes.com/1985/06/15/style/in-athletic-shoes-reebok-leads-the-pack.html) . The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . Retrieved November 30, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) Elizabeth Nolan Brown (October 1, 2013). "12 Classic (or Classics-Inspired) Reebok Hi Tops" (http://www.bustle.com/articles/6027-12-classic-or-classics-inspired-reebok-hi-tops/page/1) . Bustle . Retrieved November 30, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-19) "Reebok Kicks Off Collection With Retro Bash" (http://www.bizbash.com/reebok_kicks_off_collection_with_retro_bash/new-york/story/7444/#.VFv4UPnF9XY) . BizBash. March 7, 2007 . Retrieved November 30, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-20) "Reebok Freestyle x Colette x Married to the Mob" (http://sneakernews.com/2008/07/25/reebok-freestyle-x-colette-x-married-to-the-mob/) . Sneaker News. July 25, 2008 . Retrieved November 30, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-21) "Reebok Freestyle – Wonder Women" (http://limitemagazine.com/2009/08/reebok-freestyle-wonder-women/) . Limite Magazine. August 20, 2009 . Retrieved November 30, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-22) "Wonder Woman Reebok Freestyle" (http://theshoegame.com/articles/wonder-woman-reebok-freestyle.html) . The Shoe Game. August 19, 2009 . Retrieved November 30, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-glamour_23-0) Nikki Ogunnaike (September 5, 2012). "Introducing Alicia Keys x Reebok: Or As I Like To Call It "The Perfect Collaboration Ever!" (http://www.glamour.com/fashion/blogs/dressed/2012/09/introducing-alicia-keys-x-reeb) " (http://www.glamour.com/fashion/blogs/dressed/2012/09/introducing-alicia-keys-x-reeb) . Glamour . Retrieved November 30, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-24) Brendan Dunne (June 24, 2014). "Sand.W.Man x Reebok Classics "#003/Dance" (http://sneakernews.com/2014/06/24/sand-w-man-x-reebok-classics-003-dance/#more-522334) " (http://sneakernews.com/2014/06/24/sand-w-man-x-reebok-classics-003-dance/#more-522334) . Retrieved November 30, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-25) "Reebok Partners With Netflix's 'GLOW' on '80s-Inspired Kicks — And They're Going to Be on the Show" (https://footwearnews.com/2018/shop/sneakers-deals/reebok-glow-2-sneakers-release-info-1202580330/) . June 28, 2018. ^ (#cite_ref-26) " (https://footwearnews.com/2018/focus/uncategorized/netflix-glow-costume-designer-80s-reebok-1202598118/) 'GLOW' Costume Designer Talks Sneakers & Those '80s Trends You Love to Hate" (https://footwearnews.com/2018/focus/uncategorized/netflix-glow-costume-designer-80s-reebok-1202598118/) . July 16, 2018. ^ (#cite_ref-27) Kosko, Jill S. (October 15, 1986). " (https://www.collegian.psu.edu/arts_and_entertainment/article_6487c57e-64f2-5f54-b8f5-081fe1cda25b.html) 'Jumpin' Jack Flash' succeeds thanks to talented Whoopi's saucy charisma" (https://www.collegian.psu.edu/arts_and_entertainment/article_6487c57e-64f2-5f54-b8f5-081fe1cda25b.html) . Daily Collegian . Penn State University . Retrieved October 21, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-28) "Karen Mistal 'Return of the Killer Tomatoes' 620" (https://images6.fanpop.com/image/photos/41100000/karen-mistal-return-of-the-killer-tomatoes-620-karen-m-waldren-aka-karen-mistal-41115654-1280-720.png) . Fanpop . Retrieved October 24, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-29) Evans, Mary (October 11, 1991). "Stock Photo - Michelle Pfeiffer & Al Pacino Characters: Frankie, Johnny Film: Frankie And Johnny" (https://www.agefotostock.com/age/en/details-photo/michelle-pfeiffer-and-al-pacino-characters-frankie-johnny-film-frankie-and-johnny-1991-director-garry-marshall-11-october-1991/MEV-12574808/1) . Age Fotostock . Paramount . Retrieved October 22, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-30) Evans, Mary (October 11, 1991). "Stock Photo - Movie Poster Film: Frankie And Johnny (1991) Director: Garry Marshall" (https://www.agefotostock.com/age/en/details-photo/movie-poster-film-frankie-and-johnny-1991-director-garry-marshall-11-october-1991/MEV-12574806/1) . Age Fotostock . Paramount . Retrieved October 22, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-31) "The Reebok shoes Freestyle Hi white in The Brains" (https://www.spotern.com/en/spot/movie/masterminds/52742/the-reebok-shoes-freestyle-hi-white-in-the-brains) . Spotern . Retrieved October 24, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-32) "The Reebok white Hi lace up Kristin Wiig in The Brains" (https://www.spotern.com/en/spot/movie/masterminds/1600/the-reebok-white-hi-lace-up-kristen-wiig-in-the-brains?brandID=1768) . Spotern . Retrieved October 25, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-33) Barbuto, Dana (September 30, 2016). "Movie review: 'Masterminds' wastes its A-list comedic cast" (https://www.recordnet.com/news/20160930/movie-review-masterminds-wastes-its-a-list-comedic-cast) . Recordnet.com . Retrieved October 25, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-34) Amirpour, Ana Lily (June 20, 2017). "How They Did It: Designing the Amputee Protagonist of Ana Lily Amirpour's Dystopian Desert Trip, The Bad Batch" (https://alterianinc.com/movie-maker-how-they-did-it-designing-the-amputee-protagonist-of-ana-lily-amirpours-dystopian-desert-trip-the-bad-batch/) . Alterian Inc . Retrieved October 22, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-35) "Chick Fight" (https://aws.boxofficebuz.com/movies/images/chick_fight_8790.jpg) . Box Office Buzz . Retrieved October 22, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-36) Singh, Prerna (November 13, 2020). "Where Was Chick Fight Filmed?" (https://thecinemaholic.com/where-was-chick-fight-filmed/) . The Cinemaholic . Retrieved October 22, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-37) Groves, Martha (August 3, 1986). "REEBOK SPRINTING TO THE LEAD: Field of Eager Competitors" (https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1986-08-03-fi-1047-story.html) . Los Angeles Times . Retrieved October 21, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-38) Anitai, Tamar (February 22, 2008). "PARLEZ VOUS YELLE POUR REEBOK FREESTYLE?" (https://web.archive.org/web/20211021160332/http://www.mtv.com/news/2291776/parlez-vous-yelle-pour-reebok-freestyle/) . MTV News . Archived from the original (http://www.mtv.com/news/2291776/parlez-vous-yelle-pour-reebok-freestyle/) on October 21, 2021 . Retrieved October 21, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-39) "Sneaker Reebok hi freestyle of Yelle in the clip Completely crazy" (https://www.spotern.com/en/spot/video/yelle-completement-fou-official-video/85638/sneakers-reebok-hi-freestyle-white-of-yelle-in-the-clip-completely-crazy) . Spotern . Retrieved October 21, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-40) Rothenberg, Debra L. (June 7, 2013). "Lil Mix And Emblem Perform On ABC's 'Good Morning America' (https://www.gettyimages.com/detail/news-photo/recording-artists-jade-thirlwall-and-perrie-edwards-of-lil-news-photo/170130280) " (https://www.gettyimages.com/detail/news-photo/recording-artists-jade-thirlwall-and-perrie-edwards-of-lil-news-photo/170130280) . Getty Images . Retrieved October 25, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-41) Jennifer Lynn (July 14, 2014). "Kiesza's Kicks: The Hideaway Singer's Top 10 Sneaker Looks" (https://www.mtv.co.uk/news/i59ac0/kieszas-kicks-the-hideaway-singers-top-10-sneaker-looks) . MTV UK . Retrieved November 30, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-42) "Divas dominate: Taylor Swift, Lorde, Iggy Azaela rock American Music Awards" (https://www.firstpost.com/bollywood/divas-dominate-taylor-swift-lorde-iggy-azaela-rock-american-music-awards-1818261.html) . Firstpost . November 24, 2014 . Retrieved October 23, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-43) "Iggy Azalea - Fancy_Beg For It (Medley) (2014 American Music Awards) ft. Charli XCX" (https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x2ayhhn) . Dailymotion . Retrieved October 23, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-44) Clinton, Leah Melby (November 24, 2014). "Last Night's American Music Awards Had a Major Clueless Style Moment. Did You Notice?" (https://www.glamour.com/story/iggy-azalea-american-music-awards-2014) . Glamour . Retrieved October 23, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-45) Sacasa, Alma (December 10, 2020). "6 Things You Need to Recreate Shakira's New Music Video Look" (https://peopleenespanol.com/chica/shakira-new-video-look/) . People Espanol . Retrieved October 21, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-46) Ogunnaike, Nikki (September 5, 2012). "Introducing Alicia Keys x Reebok: Or As I Like To Call It 'The Perfect Collaboration Ever!' (https://www.glamour.com/story/introducing-alicia-keys-x-reeb) " (https://www.glamour.com/story/introducing-alicia-keys-x-reeb) . Glamour . Retrieved October 21, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-47) Groves, Martha (August 3, 1986). "REEBOK SPRINTING TO THE LEAD: Field of Eager Competitors" (https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1986-08-03-fi-1047-story.html) . Los Angeles Times . Retrieved October 21, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-48) "Cybill Shepherd" (http://www.people.com/people/archive/article/0,,20142264,00.html) . People . September 16, 1996 . Retrieved November 30, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-10773279.jpg_49-0) Galella, Ron. "43rd Annual Golden Globe Awards" (https://www.gettyimages.com/detail/news-photo/whoopi-goldberg-at-the-beverly-hilton-hotel-in-beverly-news-photo/74663954) . Getty Images . Retrieved October 24, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-50) Sayej, Nadja. "Out of the Box: The Rise of Sneaker Culture" (https://www.vice.com/es/article/out-of-the-box-the-rise-of-sneaker-culture) . Noisey by Vice . Retrieved November 30, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-51) Keller, Joel (December 11, 2013). "Eden Sher on The Middle's Christmas Episode and Why Sue Heck Is a Fashion Icon" (https://parade.com/240772/joelkeller/eden-sher-on-the-middles-christmas-episode-and-why-sue-heck-is-a-fashion-icon/) . Parade . Retrieved December 11, 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-52) "Sneakers Reebok Freestyle Hi in The Middle" (https://www.spotern.com/en/spot/tv/the-middle/57433/sneakers-reebok-freestyle-hi-in-the-middle) . Spotern . ^ (#cite_ref-53) Tom, Ron (November 8, 2017). "ABC's "The Goldbergs" - Season Five" (https://www.gettyimages.com/detail/news-photo/the-goldberg-girls-afraid-shell-be-all-alone-in-her-old-age-news-photo/900609016) . Getty Images . Getty Images . Retrieved November 18, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-54) Braun, Don (August 25, 2020). "Victoria Pedretti – 'The Haunting of Bly Manor' Promotional Material 2020" (https://celebmafia.com/victoria-pedretti-the-haunting-of-bly-manor-promotional-material-2020-2528356/) . Celebmafia . Retrieved October 22, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-55) Romano, Nick (August 31, 2020). "The Haunting of Bly Manor teaser trailer spins a new ghost story — and October premiere" (https://ew.com/tv/the-haunting-of-bly-manor-teaser-trailer-netflix/) . Entertainment Weekly . Retrieved October 22, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-56) King, Ben (September 23, 2022). "La Brea Actress Veronica St. Clair Talks Season 2, Filming in Australia & More!" (https://www.bionicbuzz.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/Veronica-St.-Clair-as-Riley.jpg) . Bionic Buzz . NBC . Retrieved November 18, 2022 . Further reading [ edit ] Scottie Beam (June 2018). " (https://gimletmedia.com/shows/flipping-the-game) Flipping the Game " (https://gimletmedia.com/shows/flipping-the-game) (Podcast). Reebok Classic and Gimlet Creative. External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Reebok Freestyle (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Reebok_Freestyle) . Official website (https://www.reebok.com/us/freestyle) Charlie's Sneaker Pages "Memories - Reebok Freestyle" (http://www.sneaker-pages.com/m-freest.htm) It's The Shoes episode with the "Reebok Freestyle 5411" on YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kM2F_ngyG-g) v t e Reebok International Ltd. (/wiki/Reebok) Subsidiaries Former Avia (/wiki/Avia_(shoes)) CCM (/wiki/CCM_(ice_hockey)) Rockport (/wiki/Rockport_(company)) Brands Classic (/wiki/Reebok_Classic) Sneakers Freestyle Nano (/wiki/Reebok_Nano) Pump (/wiki/Reebok_Pump) Ventilator (/wiki/Reebok_Ventilator) Zig (/wiki/Reebok_Zig) Related companies Authentic Brands Group (/wiki/Authentic_Brands_Group) (parent) Adidas (/wiki/Adidas) (former parent) J.W. Foster & Sons (/wiki/J.W._Foster_and_Sons) (predecessor) Advertising Campaigns (/wiki/Reebok_advertising_campaigns) Dan & Dave (/wiki/Dan_%26_Dave) Terry Tate: Office Linebacker (/wiki/Terry_Tate:_Office_Linebacker) Sponsorships Boston Track Club (/wiki/Reebok_Boston_Track_Club) Human Rights Award (/wiki/Reebok_Human_Rights_Award) Pro Summer League (/wiki/Reebok_Pro_Summer_League) Reebok Stadium (/wiki/Toughsheet_Community_Stadium) Key people Joseph W. Foster (/wiki/Joseph_William_Foster) (co-founder) Swizz Beatz (/wiki/Swizz_Beatz) Category (/wiki/Category:Reebok) Commons (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Reebok_International_Limited) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6f54559974‐fjczz Cached time: 20240720220933 Cache expiry: 957029 Reduced expiry: true Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.678 seconds Real time usage: 0.830 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 3510/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 117600/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 2080/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 14/100 Expensive parser function count: 7/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 216875/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.436/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 6283171/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 734.935 1 -total 50.44% 370.697 1 Template:Reflist 22.93% 168.533 20 Template:Cite_news 15.12% 111.108 30 Template:Cite_web 13.77% 101.191 1 Template:Reebok 13.56% 99.682 2 Template:Navbox 8.97% 65.898 1 Template:Short_description 7.73% 56.843 1 Template:Infobox_brand 7.28% 53.498 1 Template:Infobox 5.82% 42.740 1 Template:Commons_category Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:3515315-0!canonical and timestamp 20240720220933 and revision id 1232963916. 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Find sources: "Michael Ninn" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Michael+Ninn%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Michael+Ninn%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Michael+Ninn%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Michael+Ninn%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Michael+Ninn%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Michael+Ninn%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( June 2014 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Michael Ninn Occupation Adult film (/wiki/Adult_film) director (/wiki/Film_director) Years active 1992 - present Known for adult erotic films (/wiki/Erotic_photography) Website http://www.michaelninn.com (http://www.michaelninn.com) Michael Ninn is an adult film (/wiki/Erotic_photography) director (/wiki/Film_director) and writer. He began his career as a music video (/wiki/Music_video) director and made his first adult films in 1992. [1] (#cite_note-SA-20140128-1) Adult film career [ edit ] In 1992 Ninn made his first adult erotic films (/wiki/Adult_erotic_film) – Black Orchid , Principles of Lust (/w/index.php?title=Principles_of_Lust_(film)&action=edit&redlink=1) and Two Sisters (/w/index.php?title=Two_Sisters_(1992_film)&action=edit&redlink=1) . [2] (#cite_note-CA-20081118-2) The next year he signed with VCA Pictures (/wiki/VCA_Pictures) and went on to produce a series of award-winning films, including Sex , Latex and Shock . Ninn's production company, Ninn Worx, has produced dozens of films that have won more than 70 AVN Awards (/wiki/AVN_Award) . [3] (#cite_note-avnawards.avn.com-3) In 1997, Shock won eleven awards, including "Best Director" and "Best Video Feature". [4] (#cite_note-avnawards.com-4) In 2005, the Ninn Worx film Fetish Circus won the 2005 AVN award for "Best DVD", and Lost Angels: Katsumi (/wiki/Katsuni) won "Best Foreign All-Sex Release". [4] (#cite_note-avnawards.com-4) In 2006, Ninn won the AVN Award for "Best Director - Non Feature" for the film Neo Pornographia . [4] (#cite_note-avnawards.com-4) In 2006, Eddie Van Halen (/wiki/Eddie_Van_Halen) contributed to the soundtrack of Ninn's film Sacred Sin . [5] (#cite_note-5) In 2013 Ninn received an XBIZ Award (/wiki/XBIZ_Award) nomination for "Director of the Year - Feature Release" for The Four . [6] (#cite_note-XbizNoms2013-6) He also was nominated for seven AVN Awards in 2013 for The Four . [3] (#cite_note-avnawards.avn.com-3) Awards [ edit ] AVN Awards (/wiki/AVN_Award) Year Award Film 1996 [7] (#cite_note-7) Best Director-Video Latex 1997 [8] (#cite_note-8) Shock Best Editing-Video Best Editing-Gay Video Night Walk 2002 [9] (#cite_note-9) AVN Hall of Fame (/wiki/AVN_Hall_of_Fame) — 2003 [10] (#cite_note-10) Best Videography Perfect 2006 [11] (#cite_note-11) Best Director - Non Feature Neo Pornographia 2014 [12] (#cite_note-12) Best Director – Foreign Feature (shared with Max Candy) The Ingenuous Hot d'Or Awards (/wiki/Hot_d%27Or_Award) Year Award Film 1996 [13] (#cite_note-HotdOr-13) Best American Director Latex 1997 [13] (#cite_note-HotdOr-13) Body Shock 1999 [13] (#cite_note-HotdOr-13) La Nuit Sans Fin 2000 [14] (#cite_note-14) Ritual NightMoves Awards (/wiki/NightMoves_Award) Year Award 2005 [15] (#cite_note-15) Best Director (Editor's Choice) XRCO Awards (/wiki/XRCO_Award) Year Award 1996 [16] (#cite_note-16) Director of the Year 2006 [17] (#cite_note-17) XRCO Hall of Fame (/wiki/XRCO_Hall_of_Fame) See also [ edit ] Andrew Blake (/wiki/Andrew_Blake_(director)) Helmut Newton (/wiki/Helmut_Newton) Philip Mond (/wiki/Philip_Mond) Radley Metzger (/wiki/Radley_Metzger) Tinto Brass (/wiki/Tinto_Brass) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-SA-20140128_1-0) Adam (January 28, 2014). "Legendary Director Michael Ninn Strikes Awards Season Gold with "The Ingenuous" (http://www.sexart.com/blog/20140128/Legendary_Director_Michael_Ninn_Strikes_Awards_Season_Gold__br__with__The_Ingenuous_/) " (http://www.sexart.com/blog/20140128/Legendary_Director_Michael_Ninn_Strikes_Awards_Season_Gold__br__with__The_Ingenuous_/) . Sexart.com . Retrieved December 24, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-CA-20081118_2-0) Sutton, David (November 18, 2008). "The Nymphetamine Series - Michael Ninn" (https://web.archive.org/web/20150812023018/http://www.celluloidaddiction.com/ca_b2b/main-page-ca.html) . Celluloid Addiction . Archived from the original (http://www.celluloidaddiction.com/ca_b2b/main-page-ca.html) on August 12, 2015 . Retrieved August 15, 2015 . ^ Jump up to: a b "AVN - 2014 AVN Awards Show - History" (https://web.archive.org/web/20140330192524/http://avnawards.avn.com/past/winners) . Avnawards.avn.com. Archived from the original (http://avnawards.avn.com/past/winners) on March 30, 2014 . Retrieved January 20, 2014 . ^ Jump up to: a b c "AVN - 2014 AVN Awards Show - History" (https://web.archive.org/web/20070929000922/http://www.avnawards.com/index.php?content=pastwinners) . Avnawards.com. Archived from the original (http://www.avnawards.com/index.php?content=pastwinners) on September 29, 2007 . Retrieved January 20, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Giles, Jeff (September 30, 2016). "When Eddie Van Halen Made a Porno Soundtrack" (https://ultimateclassicrock.com/eddie-van-halen-porno-soundtrack/) . Ultimate Classic Rock . Retrieved November 23, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-XbizNoms2013_6-0) "XBIZ Nominees 2013" (https://web.archive.org/web/20120131025101/http://xbizawards.xbiz.com/nominees.php) . Archived from the original (http://xbizawards.xbiz.com/nominees.php) on January 31, 2012 . Retrieved September 26, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "Adult Video News Award Winners - 1995" (http://www.rame.net/faq/avn/1995.html) . RAME. January 8, 1996 . Retrieved July 3, 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "1997 AVN Award Winners" (https://web.archive.org/web/19971012101924/http://www.avn.com/avn_main/1997awards.html) . AVN (/wiki/AVN_(magazine)) . Archived from the original (http://www.avn.com/avn_main/1997awards.html) on October 12, 1997 . Retrieved July 3, 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) Heidi Pike-Johnson (January 12, 2002). "2002 AVN Awards Show Winners Announced" (https://web.archive.org/web/20020204080833/http://avn.digitalod.com/query/?for=news&eid=10019) . AVN (/wiki/AVN_(magazine)) . Archived from the original (http://avn.digitalod.com/query/?for=news&eid=10019) on February 4, 2002 . Retrieved July 3, 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) Heidi Pike-Johnson (January 21, 2003). "2003 AVN Awards Winners Announced: Awards Presented Big Year for Evil Angel..." (http://business.avn.com/articles/video/2003-AVN-Awards-Winners-Announced-Awards-Presented-Big-Year-for-Evil-Angel-32917.html) AVN (/wiki/AVN_(magazine)) . Retrieved July 3, 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "2006 AVN Award Winners Announced" (http://business.avn.com/articles/video/2006-AVN-Award-Winners-Announced-47237.html) . AVN (/wiki/AVN_(magazine)) . January 9, 2006 . Retrieved July 3, 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) AVN Staff (January 19, 2014). "AVN Announces the Winners of the 2014 AVN Awards" (http://business.avn.com/articles/video/AVN-Announces-the-Winners-of-the-2014-AVN-Awards-544448.html) . AVN (/wiki/AVN_(magazine)) . Retrieved July 3, 2015 . ^ Jump up to: a b c "Les cérémonies des Hot d'Or" (https://web.archive.org/web/20140225215905/http://hot-dor.fr/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=30%3Aceremonies&catid=2%3Aarchives&Itemid=4) . Hot d'Or. Archived from the original (http://hot-dor.fr/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=30:ceremonies&catid=2:archives&Itemid=4) on February 25, 2014 . Retrieved July 3, 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) "Hot d'Or Winners" (https://web.archive.org/web/20001018072649/http://www.adultvideonews.com/bone/by0800_04.html) . AVN (/wiki/AVN_(magazine)) . August 2000. Archived from the original (http://www.adultvideonews.com/bone/by0800_04.html) on October 18, 2000 . Retrieved July 3, 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) Dirty Bob (October 11, 2005). "NightMoves Awards Show Reaches Climax" (http://business.avn.com/articles/video/NightMoves-Awards-Show-Reaches-Climax-46072.html) . AVN (/wiki/AVN_(magazine)) . Retrieved July 3, 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) "The Best Of 1995 (1996 Show)" (http://www.dirtybob.com/xrco/oldies.html) . X-Rated Critics Organization (/wiki/X-Rated_Critics_Organization) . Retrieved July 3, 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) "Pirates Wins Big at XRCO Awards" (http://business.avn.com/articles/video/i-Pirates-i-Wins-Big-at-XRCO-Awards-48808.html) . AVN (/wiki/AVN_(magazine)) . April 20, 2006 . Retrieved July 3, 2015 . External links [ edit ] Michael Ninn - Official Website (http://www.michaelninn.com) . Michael Ninn (https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0632479/) at IMDb (/wiki/IMDb_(identifier)) . Michael Ninn (https://www.iafd.com/person.rme/perfid=mninn/gender=male) at the Internet Adult Film Database (/wiki/Internet_Adult_Film_Database) . Michael Ninn (http://www.adultfilmdatabase.com/director.cfm?directorid=242) at the Adult Film Database (/wiki/Adult_Film_Database) . Michael Ninn - NINN WORX (http://www.ninnworx.com) . Michael Ninn - Video (03:26) on YouTube (/wiki/YouTube_video_(identifier)) . Michael Ninn - Video (03:34) on YouTube (/wiki/YouTube_video_(identifier)) . Michael Ninn - Video (10:00) on YouTube (/wiki/YouTube_video_(identifier)) . 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An example of fashion photography involving cigarettes. Historically considered a masculine (/wiki/Masculinity) habit, the feminization of smoking (/wiki/Tobacco_smoking) occurred in tandem with the advent of fashion brands or premium brands of cigarettes (/wiki/Cigarettes) specifically marketed toward women. Most often this is focused on young fashion-conscious professional ladies who are the target demographic (/wiki/Target_market) for these brands, which are differentiated by slimness and added length over traditional brands of cigarettes. This development of the female market occurred in tandem with an expansion of the "luxury cigarette" concept aimed at men and women, through the appearance of "luxury, opulence and sophistication" of packaging. [1] (#cite_note-Greenland_2012_p9-1) Description [ edit ] These brands include decorative ones like Eve (/wiki/Eve_(cigarette)) , marketed strictly toward women like Virginia Slims (/wiki/Virginia_Slims) , or as evening-out styles like Sobranie (/wiki/Sobranie_(cigarette)) Cocktail, designed to appeal to women, and their counterpart Sobranie Black Russian, the darker colours of which targeted a male market. [1] (#cite_note-Greenland_2012_p9-1) Many fashion houses have lent their name (through a licensing agreement) to cigarettes; Yves Saint Laurent (/wiki/Yves_Saint-Laurent_(brand)) is arguably the most successful of these (even though he admitted in a 1968 interview he smokes, but not his namesake brand, as he does "not like the flavour"), though many other brands have been marketed, from time to time, in select international markets: Givenchy (/wiki/Givenchy) , Versace (/wiki/Gianni_Versace_S.p.A.) , Pierre Cardin (/wiki/Pierre_Cardin) , Christian Lacroix (/wiki/Christian_Lacroix) and Cartier (/wiki/Cartier_SA) (a jewelry house). In the 1980s and early 1990s, manufacturers created longer, 164 millimeter versions of several ladies' cigarettes. However, finding only a small niche market (/wiki/Niche_market) , the machines that produced them have since been dismantled. With the anti-smoking (/wiki/Smoking_ban) movement in the United States, cigarette manufacturers (/wiki/Cigarette#Manufacturing) have turned to Asia, where there is a distinct market for female oriented brands, and to the nouveau riche (/wiki/Nouveau_riche) in Russia. See also [ edit ] Health effects of tobacco (/wiki/Health_effects_of_tobacco) Women and smoking (/wiki/Women_and_smoking) Smoking fetishism (/wiki/Smoking_fetishism) Capri (/wiki/Capri_(cigarette)) Cigarillo (/wiki/Cigarillo) Djarum (/wiki/Djarum) Gudang Garam (/wiki/Gudang_Garam) Dunhill (/wiki/Dunhill_(cigarette)) More (/wiki/More_(cigarette)) Virginia Slims (/wiki/Virginia_Slims_(cigarette)) Nat Sherman (/wiki/Nat_Sherman) References [ edit ] ^ a b Strategic Communication: Cases in Marketing, Public Relations, Advertising and Media, Dr Steven Greenland et al, Pearson Australia, 2012, p. 9 v t e Fashion (/wiki/Fashion) articles Index of fashion articles (/wiki/Index_of_fashion_articles) General Environmental impact of fashion (/wiki/Environmental_impact_of_fashion) Fashion accessory (/wiki/Fashion_accessory) Fashion design (/wiki/Fashion_design) Fashion design copyright (/wiki/Fashion_design_copyright) Fashion matrix (/wiki/Fashion_matrix) Fashion museum (/wiki/Fashion_museum) 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Distinctive set of garments worn by members of a religious order This article needs additional citations for verification (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this article (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Religious_habit) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Find sources: "Religious habit" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Religious+habit%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Religious+habit%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Religious+habit%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Religious+habit%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Religious+habit%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Religious+habit%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( February 2021 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) St. Anthony the Great (/wiki/Anthony_the_Great) , wearing the habit of a Coptic (/wiki/Coptic_Orthodox_Church_of_Alexandria) monk. Part of a series (/wiki/Category:Formal_wear) on Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) and corresponding attires (/wiki/Clothing) Formal (/wiki/Formal_wear) ( full dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) White tie (/wiki/White_tie) Morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) Full dress uniform (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) Frock coat (/wiki/Frock_coat) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Ball gown (/wiki/Ball_gown) Semi-formal (/wiki/Semi-formal_wear) ( half dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) Black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) Black lounge suit (/wiki/Black_lounge_suit) Mess dress uniform (/wiki/Mess_dress_uniform) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Informal (/wiki/Informal_wear) ( undress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) , "dress clothes") Suit (/wiki/Suit) Service dress uniform (/wiki/Service_dress_uniform) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Pantsuit (/wiki/Pantsuit) Casual (/wiki/Casual_wear) (anything not above) Business casual (/wiki/Business_casual) Casual Friday (/wiki/Casual_Friday) Combat uniform (/wiki/Combat_uniform) Smart casual (/wiki/Smart_casual) Workwear (/wiki/Workwear) Streetwear (/wiki/Streetwear) Sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear) known as Sportswear (fashion) (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) and Athleisure (/wiki/Athleisure) Undress (/wiki/Undress_code) Supplementary alternatives Ceremonial dress (/wiki/Ceremonial_dress) law courts (/wiki/Court_dress) royal courts (/wiki/Court_uniform_and_dress_in_the_United_Kingdom) diplomatic (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) academic (/wiki/Academic_dress) , etc. Religious clothing (/wiki/Religious_clothing) cassock (/wiki/Cassock) , habit , etc. Folk costume (/wiki/Folk_costume) Distinctions Orders (/wiki/Order_(distinction)) medals (/wiki/Medal) , etc. Legend: = Day (before 6 p.m.) = Evening (after 6 p.m.) = Bow tie (/wiki/Bow_tie) colour = Ladies = Gentlemen Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) v t e A religious habit is a distinctive set of religious clothing (/wiki/Religious_clothing) worn by members of a religious order (/wiki/Religious_order) . Traditionally some plain garb recognizable as a religious habit has also been worn by those leading the religious eremitic (/wiki/Hermit) and anchoritic (/wiki/Anchorite) life, although in their case without conformity to a particular uniform style. Uniformity and distinctiveness by order often evolved and changed over time. Interpretation of terms for clothes in religious rules could change over centuries. Furthermore, every time new communities gained importance in a cultural area the need for visual separation increased for new as well as old communities. Thus, modern habits are rooted in historic forms, but do not necessarily resemble them in cut, colour, material, detail or use. In Christian monastic (/wiki/Christian_monasticism) orders of the Catholic (/wiki/Catholic_church) , Lutheran (/wiki/Lutheranism) and Anglican (/wiki/Anglicanism) Churches, the habit often consists of a tunic (/wiki/Tunic) covered by a scapular (/wiki/Scapular) and cowl (/wiki/Cowl) , with a hood for monks (/wiki/Monk) or friars (/wiki/Friar) and a veil (/wiki/Veil) for nuns (/wiki/Nun) ; in apostolic orders it may be a distinctive form of cassock (/wiki/Cassock) for men, or a distinctive habit and veil for women. Catholic Canon Law (/wiki/Canon_Law) requires only that the garb of their members be in some way identifiable so that the person may serve as a witness of the Evangelical counsels (/wiki/Evangelical_counsels) . In many orders, the conclusion of postulancy (/wiki/Postulant) and the beginning of the novitiate (/wiki/Novitiate) is marked by a ceremony, in which the new novice is accepted as a novice and then clothed in the community's habit by the superior (/wiki/General_superior) . In some cases the novice's habit will be somewhat different from the customary habit: for instance, in certain orders of women that use the veil (/wiki/Veil) , it is common for novices to wear a white veil while professed members wear black, or if the order generally wears white, the novice wears a grey veil. Among some Franciscan (/wiki/Franciscan) communities of men, novices wear a sort of overshirt over their tunic; Carthusian (/wiki/Carthusian) novices wear a black cloak over their white habit. Buddhism [ edit ] Monks from Central Asia (/wiki/Central_Asia) and China (/wiki/China) wearing traditional kāṣāya; Bezeklik (/wiki/Bezeklik) , Eastern Tarim Basin (/wiki/Tarim_Basin) , China, 9th–10th century Kāṣāya ( Sanskrit (/wiki/Sanskrit_language) : काषाय , romanized (/wiki/Romanization_of_Sanskrit) : kāṣāya ; Pali (/wiki/Pali) : kasāva; Chinese (/wiki/Chinese_language) : 袈裟 ; pinyin (/wiki/Pinyin) : jiāshā ; Cantonese Jyutping (/wiki/Jyutping) : gaa 1 saa 1 ; Japanese (/wiki/Japanese_language) : 袈裟 kesa ; Korean (/wiki/Korean_language) : 袈裟 가사 gasa ; Vietnamese (/wiki/Vietnamese_language) : cà-sa ), "chougu" ( Tibetan (/wiki/Standard_Tibetan) ) are the robes of Buddhist (/wiki/Buddhism) monks (/wiki/Bhikkhu) and nuns (/wiki/Bhikkhuni) , named after a brown or saffron dye. In Sanskrit and Pali, these robes are also given the more general term cīvara , which references the robes without regard to color. Origin and construction [ edit ] An early representation of the Buddha (/wiki/Gautama_Buddha) wearing kāṣāya robes, in the Hellenistic (/wiki/Hellenistic) style Buddhist kāṣāya are said to have originated in India (/wiki/India) as set of robes for the devotees of Gautama Buddha (/wiki/Gautama_Buddha) . A notable variant has a pattern reminiscent of an Asian rice field. Original kāṣāya were constructed of discarded fabric (/wiki/Textile) . These were stitched together to form three rectangular pieces of cloth, which were then fitted over the body in a specific manner. The three main pieces of cloth are the antarvāsa , the uttarāsaṅga , and the saṃghāti . [1] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEKieschnick200390-1) Together they form the "triple robe", or tricīvara . The tricīvara is described more fully in the Theravāda (/wiki/Therav%C4%81da) Vinaya (/wiki/Vinaya) (Vin 1:94 289). Uttarāsaṅga [ edit ] A robe covering the upper body. It is worn over the undergarment, or antarvāsa. In representations of the Buddha, the uttarāsaṅga rarely appears as the uppermost garment, since it is often covered by the outer robe, or saṃghāti. Saṃghāti [ edit ] The saṃghāti is an outer robe used for various occasions. It comes over the upper robe ( uttarāsaṅga ), and the undergarment ( antarvāsa ). In representations of the Buddha, the saṃghāti is usually the most visible garment, with the undergarment or uttarāsaṅga protruding at the bottom. It is quite similar in shape to the Greek himation (/wiki/Himation) , and its shape and folds have been treated in Greek style in the Greco-Buddhist art (/wiki/Greco-Buddhist_art) of Gandhāra (/wiki/Gandh%C4%81ra) . Additions [ edit ] Other items that may have been worn with the triple robe were: a waist cloth, the kushalaka a buckled belt, the samakaksika Indian depiction of the Buddha wearing red robes; Sanskrit manuscript, Nālandā (/wiki/N%C4%81land%C4%81) , Bihar (/wiki/Bihar) , India, Pāla period Kāṣāya in Indian Buddhism [ edit ] In India, variations of the kāṣāya robe distinguished different types of monastics. These represented the different schools that they belonged to, and their robes ranged widely from red and ochre, to blue and black. [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEKieschnick200389-2) Between 148 and 170 CE, the Parthian (/wiki/Parthia) monk An Shigao (/wiki/An_Shigao) came to China and translated a work which describes the color of monastic robes utilized in five major Indian Buddhist sects, called Dà Bǐqiū Sānqiān Wēiyí (Ch. 大比丘三千威儀). [3] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEHino200455-3) Another text translated at a later date, the Śariputraparipṛcchā , contains a very similar passage corroborating this information, but the colors for the Sarvāstivāda and Dharmaguptaka sects are reversed. [4] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEHino200455–56-4) [5] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTESujato2012i-5) Nikāya Dà Bǐqiū Sānqiān Wēiyí Śariputraparipṛcchā Sarvāstivāda (/wiki/Sarvastivada) Deep Red Black Dharmaguptaka (/wiki/Dharmaguptaka) Black Deep Red Mahāsāṃghika (/wiki/Mahasamghika) Yellow Yellow Mahīśāsaka (/wiki/Mahisasaka) Blue Blue Kaśyapīya (/wiki/Kasyapiya) Magnolia Magnolia In traditions of Tibetan Buddhism (/wiki/Tibetan_Buddhism) , which follow the Mūlasarvāstivāda Vinaya, red robes are regarded as characteristic of the Mūlasarvāstivādins. [6] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEMohrTsedroen2010266-6) According to Dudjom Rinpoche from the tradition of Tibetan Buddhism, the robes of fully ordained Mahāsāṃghika monastics were to be sewn out of more than seven sections, but no more than twenty-three sections. [7] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTERinpoche199916-7) The symbols sewn on the robes were the endless knot (/wiki/Endless_knot) (Skt. śrīvatsa ) and the conch shell (Skt. śaṅkha ), two of the Eight Auspicious Signs (/wiki/Ashtamangala) in Buddhism. [7] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTERinpoche199916-7) Jiāshā in Chinese Buddhism [ edit ] In Chinese Buddhism (/wiki/Chinese_Buddhism) , the kāṣāya is called gāsā (Ch. 袈裟). During the early period of Chinese Buddhism (/wiki/Chinese_Buddhism) , the most common color was red. Later, the color of the robes came to serve as a way to distinguish monastics, just as they did in India. However, the colors of a Chinese Buddhist monastic's robes often corresponded to their geographical region rather than to any specific schools. [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEKieschnick200389-2) By the maturation of Chinese Buddhism, only the Dharmaguptaka ordination lineage was still in use, and therefore the color of robes served no useful purpose as a designation for sects, the way that it had in India. Kesa in Japanese Buddhism [ edit ] Japanese Buddhist priest's mantle ( kesa ), 1775–1825, LACMA (/wiki/LACMA) textile collections In Japanese Buddhism (/wiki/Japanese_Buddhism) , the kāṣāya is known as the kesa ( 袈裟 ) . In Japan, during the Edo (/wiki/Edo_period) and Meiji periods (/wiki/Meiji_period) , kesa were sometimes pieced together from the theatrical kimono (/wiki/Kimono) used in Noh theatre (/wiki/Noh_theatre) . Christianity [ edit ] Religious clothing includes habits Catholicism [ edit ] Pope John Paul II (/wiki/Pope_John_Paul_II) in his post-apostolic Exhortation Vita consecrata (1996) says concerning the religious habit of consecrated (/wiki/Consecrated_life) persons: §25 [...] The Church must always seek to make her presence visible in everyday life, especially in contemporary culture, which is often very secularized and yet sensitive to the language of signs. In this regard the Church has a right to expect a significant contribution from consecrated persons, called as they are in every situation to bear clear witness that they belong to Christ. Since the habit is a sign of consecration, poverty and membership in a particular Religious family, I join the Fathers of the Synod in strongly recommending to men and women religious that they wear their proper habit, suitably adapted to the conditions of time and place. Where valid reasons of their apostolate call for it, Religious, in conformity with the norms of their Institute, may also dress in a simple and modest manner, with an appropriate symbol, in such a way that their consecration is recognizable. Institutes which from their origin or by provision of their Constitutions do not have a specific habit should ensure that the dress of their members corresponds in dignity and simplicity to the nature of their vocation. Nuns [ edit ] A nun of the Poor Clares of Perpetual Adoration (/wiki/Poor_Clares_of_Perpetual_Adoration) in her cloister Traditional Catholic nuns The religious habits of Catholic nuns typically consist of the following elements: Tunic : This is the central piece of the habit. It is a loose dress made of serge (/wiki/Serge_(fabric)) fabric pleated at the neck and draping to the ground. It can be worn pinned up in the front or in the back to allow the nun to work. Scapular (/wiki/Scapular) : This symbolic apron hangs from both front and back; it is worn over the tunic, and Benedictine (/wiki/Benedictine) nuns also wear it over the belt, whereas some other orders wear it tied under the belt. Cincture : The habit is often secured around the waist with a belt of leather, wool or a lanyard. The cincture of the Franciscan orders has three (or four) knots standing for the vows. Coif (/wiki/Coif) : This is the garment's headpiece and includes the white cotton cap secured by a bandeau (/wiki/Bandeau) and a white wimple (/wiki/Wimple) (to cover the neck and cheeks) and guimpe (/wiki/Guimpe) (to cover the chest, similar to a short cape) of starched linen, cotton, or (today) polyester. It is sometimes covered by a thin layer of black crêpe (/wiki/Cr%C3%AApe_(textile)) . Veil (/wiki/Black_veil) : This element is worn pinned over the coif head coverings. Some veils can be worn down to cover the face or up to expose it. The veil sometimes includes a white underveil as well. The colour of the veil depends as well from the habit of the order and the status of the sister or nun (novices or postulants wear differently coloured veils than the professed sisters and nuns). The coif and veil were common items of clothing for married women in medieval Europe. [ citation needed ] Different orders adhere to different styles of dress; these styles have changed over time. Sisters [ edit ] Sisters of the Daughters of Mary in traditional habit Missionaries of Charity (/wiki/Missionaries_of_Charity) sisters in Haiti, wearing the order's traditional white sari with blue stripes This section needs expansion . You can help by adding to it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Religious_habit&action=edit&section=) . ( February 2021 ) Historically, the religious habit of Catholic sisters (/wiki/Religious_sister) was a visible sign of a woman's consecration to God. [8] (#cite_note-8) Different orders adhere to different styles of dress; these styles have changed over time. For example, in former times, the Daughters of Charity of Saint Vincent de Paul (/wiki/Daughters_of_Charity_of_Saint_Vincent_de_Paul) wore a cornette (/wiki/Cornette) instead of a veil. Due the ecclesiastical document Perfectae caritatis (/wiki/Perfectae_caritatis) , many congregations decided to simplify their habits, to conform to the attire of the culture they are working in, or to even discard their use entirely. While styles vary, for those wearing the traditional habit, three pieces are consistently worn: tunic (robe), belt/cincture, veil. The habit of some Dominican Sisters (/wiki/Dominican_Sisters) consists of a tunic, belt (cincture), scapular, veil, rosary, and on formal occasions a cappa (mantle). [9] (#cite_note-9) Even for orders that have chosen not to wear a habit, these sisters often share a common appearance: calf-length skirt, blouse or sweater, visible cross necklace. Monks [ edit ] Carthusian monks of the Chartreuse de Portes Monks in the Catholic church wear a tunic, a cincture (/wiki/Cincture) , a hooded scapular, and, for the Liturgy of the Hours (/wiki/Liturgy_of_the_Hours) , a mantle (novices) or a cowl (professed monks). [ citation needed ] Friars [ edit ] This section needs expansion . You can help by adding to it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Religious_habit&action=edit&section=) . ( February 2021 ) Canons regular [ edit ] This section needs expansion . You can help by adding to it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Religious_habit&action=edit&section=) . ( February 2021 ) Owing to the different traditions and origins that exist, there is no singular common habit worn by the Canons Regular (/wiki/Canons_Regular) . Historically the common habit was the distinctive white cassock, with white fascia, over time some communities of Canons have changed to wearing the black cassock with black fascia. The only item of the habit that is common to all Canons is the linen rochet (/wiki/Rochet) a mark of the canonical status. In the Netherlands, some wore a cacullae (a small asymmetrical black cope (/wiki/Cope) of cloth or sheepskin.) Some communities of canons, notably in Austria and Switzerland wear a sarotium, coming from the Latin sacrum rochettum , 'the sacred rochet'. It is a thin band of linen worn over the cassock when not in choir. As part of their choir dress, some communities of Canons wear a mozzetta, either black or purple over the rochet. Outdoors Canons wear a black cloak and hood, but again adaptations have been made to this in some of the communities. Canons also traditionally wore a biretta (/wiki/Biretta) . Clergy [ edit ] This section needs expansion . You can help by adding to it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Religious_habit&action=edit&section=) . ( March 2017 ) Usually, secular priests (/wiki/Secular_clergy) wear either a black cassock (/wiki/Cassock) or an ordinary men's garb in black or another dark color along with a white clerical collar (/wiki/Clerical_collar) . White cassocks or clothes may be worn in hot climates. Also, a ferraiolo (a kind of cope) could be worn along with the cassock. Priests also traditionally wore a biretta (/wiki/Biretta) along with the cassock. Deacons, priests, and bishops belonging to religious institutes (/wiki/Religious_institute) wear the habit of their institute. Abbot or cardinal [ edit ] Main article: Pontifical vestments (/wiki/Pontifical_vestments) Latin Church (/wiki/Latin_Church) clergy other than bishops, in particular any who are abbots (/wiki/Abbot) or apostolic prefects (/wiki/Apostolic_prefect) or ordinary of a personal ordinariate, may wear pontifical items. Mitre, crosier and ring are bestowed on an abbot at his blessing and the pectoral cross is a customary part of an abbatial habit. [ citation needed ] Catholic habits gallery [ edit ] The religious habit of the Carmelite Order (/wiki/Carmelites) is brown and includes the Scapular of Our Lady of Mount Carmel (/wiki/Scapular_of_Our_Lady_of_Mount_Carmel) (also known as Brown Scapular) The religious habit of the Hieronymite enclosed monks and nuns (/wiki/Hieronymites) is white and includes a brown scapular The religious habit of the Sisters of the Good Shepherd (/wiki/Congregation_of_Our_Lady_of_Charity_of_the_Good_Shepherd) (and also of the Sisters from the Order of Our Lady of Charity) is white, with a white scapular, a black veil and a large silver heart on the breast The religious habit of the Sisters of Mary Reparatrix (/wiki/Sisters_of_Mary_Reparatrix) is white, with a blue scapular, a white and blue veil and a large golden heart on the breast The religious habit of the Franciscan (/wiki/Franciscan) Order of Friars Minor (/wiki/Friars_Minor) and Friars Minor Capuchin (/wiki/Order_of_Friars_Minor_Capuchin) is usually brown or gray; the habit of the Order of Friars Minor Conventual (/wiki/Conventual_Franciscans) and Third Order Regular is black, although the Order of Friars Minor Conventual is returning to the grey habit worldwide The religious habit of the Benedictines (/wiki/Benedictines) is black (the style varies depending upon the monastery) The religious habit of the Carthusians (/wiki/Carthusians) is white. A similar habit is used by the Monastic Family of Bethlehem, of the Assumption of the Virgin and of Saint Bruno (/wiki/Monastic_Family_of_Bethlehem,_of_the_Assumption_of_the_Virgin_and_of_Saint_Bruno) The religious habit of the Dominicans (/wiki/Dominican_Order) is black and white Cistercians (/wiki/Cistercians) in their religious habit (with the black scapular (/wiki/Scapular) ) The religious habit of the Clarisses (/wiki/Clarisses) (also known as Poor Clares (/wiki/Poor_Clares) ) is brown, with a black veil The religious habit of the Sisters of the Annunciation (/wiki/Order_of_the_Annunciation_of_the_Blessed_Virgin_Mary) is white, with a red scapular and a black veil The religious habit (based on the Indian sari (/wiki/Sari) ) of the Missionaries of Charity (/wiki/Missionaries_of_Charity) , founded by Mother Teresa of Calcutta (/wiki/Mother_Teresa) The religious habit of the Trinitarian Order (/wiki/Trinitarian_Order) is white with a distinctive cross with a blue horizontal bar and a red vertical bar The religious habit of the Sisters of the Incarnate Word and Blessed Sacrament (/wiki/Order_of_the_Incarnate_Word_and_Blessed_Sacrament) is white, with a red scapular and a black veil Oratorians (/wiki/Oratory_of_Jesus) wear roughly the same vestments as parish priests (/wiki/Priest) . The distinctive Oratorian clerical collar consists of white cloth that folds over the collar all around the neck. Sisters belonging to the Daughters of Charity (/wiki/Daughters_of_Charity_of_Saint_Vincent_de_Paul) with the cornette which used to be common Religious habit of a Trappist (/wiki/Trappists) monk Religious habit of a Premonstratensian (/wiki/Premonstratensian) canon Pauline (/wiki/Order_of_Saint_Paul_the_First_Hermit) Pius Przeździecki The Mercedarians (/wiki/Mercedarian_Order) wear white The religious habit of a Minims (/wiki/Minims_(religious_order)) friar; it consists of a black tunic, a scapular with a capuche and a black cincture with four knots (four vows) Lutheranism [ edit ] In Lutheranism (/wiki/Lutheranism) , various religious orders (/wiki/Religious_order) have a habit of a different colour. The Daughters of Mary (/wiki/Daughters_of_Mary_(Lutheran)) wear a blue habit. [10] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEDuBois201790-10) Anglicanism [ edit ] Further information: Anglican religious order (/wiki/Anglican_religious_order) Eastern Orthodoxy [ edit ] The Analavos , worn by Orthodox monks and nuns of the Great Schema The Eastern Orthodox Church (/wiki/Eastern_Orthodox_Church) does not have distinct religious orders such as those in the Catholic Church. The habit ( Greek (/wiki/Greek_language) : Σχήμα , romanized (/wiki/Romanization_of_Greek) : Schēma ) is essentially the same throughout the world. The normal monastic color is black, symbolic of repentance and simplicity. The habits of monks and nuns are identical; additionally, nuns wear a scarf, called an apostolnik (/wiki/Apostolnik) . The habit is bestowed in degrees, as the monk or nun advances in the spiritual life. There are three degrees: (1) the beginner, known as the Rassaphore ('robe bearer') (2) the intermediate, known as the Stavrophore ('cross bearer'), and (3) the Great Schema worn by Great Schema Monks or Nuns. Only the last, the Schemamonk or Schemanun, the monastic of the highest degree, wears the full habit. The habit is formally bestowed upon monks and nuns at the ceremony known as the tonsure (/wiki/Tonsure) (Greek κουρά ). The parts of the Eastern Orthodox habit are: Inner Rason ( Greek (/wiki/Greek_language) : Έσώρασον , Ζωστικὸν or Ἀντερί , Esórason ; Slavonic (/wiki/Church_Slavonic) : Podryásnik ): The inner rason (/wiki/Cassock#Eastern_practice_.28Orthodox_and_Eastern_Catholic.29) (cassock) is the innermost garment. It is a long, collared garment coming to the feet, with narrow, tapered sleeves. Unlike the Roman cassock, it is double-breasted. The inner rason is the basic garment and is worn at all times, even when working. It is often given to novices (/wiki/Novice) and seminarians (/wiki/Seminarian) , though this differs from community to community. The inner rason is also worn by chanters (/wiki/Chanter) , readers (/wiki/Reader_(liturgy)) , and the married clergy. For monks and nuns, it symbolizes the vow (/wiki/Religious_vows) of poverty (/wiki/Poverty#Relative_poverty) . Belt (Greek: Ζώνη , Zone ; Slavonic: Poyas ): The belt worn by Orthodox monks and nuns is normally leather, though sometimes it is of cloth. In the Russian tradition, married clergy, as well as the higher monastic clergy, may wear a cloth belt that is finely embroidered (/wiki/Embroidery) , especially on feast days (/wiki/Great_Feasts) . The belt is symbolic of the vow of chastity (/wiki/Chastity) . Paramand (Greek: Παραμανδύας , Paramandýas ; Slavonic: Paraman ): The Paramand is a piece of cloth, approximately 5 inches (130 mm) square which is attached by ribbons to a wooden cross. The cloth is embroidered with a cross and the Instruments of the Passion (/wiki/Passion_(Christianity)#Instruments_of_the_Passion) . The wooden cross is worn over the chest, then the ribbons pass over and under the arms, like a yoke (/wiki/Yoke) , and hold the square cloth centered on the back. The paramand is symbolic of the yoke of Christ (Matthew 11:29–30). [11] (#cite_note-11) Outer Rason ( a.k.a. , Greek: εξώρασον, exorason or simply ράσο, raso ; Slavonic: ryasa ): Among the Greeks it is worn by readers and all higher clerics; among the Russians it is worn only by monks, deacons, priests, and bishops. Analavos (Greek: Άνάλαβος; Slavonic: Analav ): The distinctive dress of the Great Schema is the analavos, and it is worn only by Schemamonks and Schemanuns. Traditionally made of either leather or wool, the analavos covers the shoulders, and then comes down in the front and back, forming a cross (see illustration, above right). Polystavrion (Greek: Πολυσταύριον, lit. "many crosses"): The polystavrion is a long cord that has been plaited with numerous crosses forming a yoke that is worn over the analavos to hold it in place. Mantle (Greek: Μανδύας, Mandías ; Slavonic: Mantíya ): The Mantle (/wiki/Mantle_(vesture)) is a long, full cape, joined at the neck which the monastic wears over the other parts of the habit. St. Tikhon of Moscow (/wiki/Tikhon_of_Moscow) wearing the patriarchal white koukoulion Kalymafki (a.k.a. Kalimavkion (/wiki/Kalimavkion) , Greek: καλυμαύκι; Slavonic: klobuk): The distinctive headdress (/wiki/Headdress) of Eastern Orthodox monks and nuns is the kalymafki, a stiffened hat, something like a fez (/wiki/Fez_(clothing)) , only black and with straight sides, covered with a veil (/wiki/Veil) . The veil has lappets which hang down on each side of the head and a stylized hood falling down the back. For monastics of the Great Schema, the kalymafki takes a very distinctive shape, known as a koukoulion (/wiki/Cowl) (cowl), and is embroidered with the Instruments of the Passion. The koukoulion is also worn by the Patriarchs of several local churches, regardless of whether or not he has been tonsured to that degree. In the Slavic tradition, the koukoulion will be in the form of a cloth hood, similar to that worn on the Western cowl. Outside church, monastics wear a soft hat known as a Skufia (/wiki/Skufia) . Again, for Schemamonks and Schemanuns it is embroidered with the Instruments of the Passion. The portions of the habit worn by the various degrees of monastics is as follows: Rasophore Stavrophore Great Schema Inner Rason Inner Rason Inner Rason Belt Belt Belt Paramand Paramand Outer Rason Outer Rason Outer Rason Analavos Mantle (Russian use only) Mantle Polystavrion Kalymafki Kalymafki Koukoulion Eastern Orthodox habits gallery [ edit ] Inner Rason worn by Polish Orthodox Church (/wiki/Polish_Orthodox_Church) cleric Monk at the Mount Athos, 1850s Hinduism [ edit ] This section needs expansion . You can help by adding to it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Religious_habit&action=edit&section=) . ( March 2017 ) In Hinduism, religious clothing is a huge element of an individual’s life. [ citation needed ] Most Hindus are known to wear a religious pendant in their daily life to show their faith in God. Hindu women cover their heads with scarf as a sign of respect for not only religion but also their husbands. [ citation needed ] In India, most devoted Hindus are seen wearing a tilak and orange clothing depicting devotion to their religion. [ citation needed ] Most Hindu Pandits (/wiki/Pandit) are either seen in a white or orange (kesari) religious clothing in India. [ citation needed ] Brahmin Hindus are most known for their devotion to the religion among all Hindus. They are seen wearing religious habits at various important moments in their life. [ citation needed ] Islam [ edit ] See also: Islamic clothing (/wiki/Islamic_clothing) Islam does not have religious habits or monastic orders. Muslim ascetics do not have particular uniforms, but rather dress in humble clothing appropriate to their era and region. [ citation needed ] Jainism [ edit ] Female ascetics and Śvetāmbara (/wiki/%C5%9Avet%C4%81mbara) male monks always wear un-stitched or minimally stitched white clothes. Digambara (/wiki/Digambara) Jain monks do not wear clothes. A loin cloth which reaches up to the shins is called a Cholapattak. Another cloth to cover the upper part of the body is called Pangarani (Uttariya Vastra). A cloth that passes over the left shoulder and covers the body up to a little above the ankle is called a Kïmli. Kïmli is a woolen shawl. They also carry a woolen bed sheet and a woolen mat to sit on. Those who wear clothes have a muhapati (/wiki/Muhapati) , which is a square or rectangular piece of cloth of a prescribed measurement, either in their hand or tied on their face covering the mouth. Śvetāmbara ascetics have an Ogho or Rajoharan (a broom of woolen threads) to clean insects around their sitting place or while they are walking. Digambara ascetics have a Morpichhi and a Kamandal in their hands. This practice may vary among different sects of Jains but essential principle remains the same to limit needs. Shinto [ edit ] In Japan, various types of very traditional dress are worn by Shinto (/wiki/Shinto) priests, often dating to styles worn by nobles during the Nara period (/wiki/Nara_period) or Heian period (/wiki/Heian_period) . Hakama (/wiki/Hakama) ( 袴 ) are a type of traditional Japanese clothing (/wiki/Japanese_clothing) , originally worn only by men, but today they are worn by both sexes. There are two types, divided umanori ( 馬乗り , "horse-riding hakama ") and undivided andon bakama ( 行灯袴 , "lantern hakama ") . The umanori type have divided legs, similar to trousers (/wiki/Trousers) , but both types appear similar. Hakama are tied at the waist and fall approximately to the ankles, and are worn over a kimono (/wiki/Kimono) (hakamashita), with the kimono then appearing like a shirt. A Jōe (/wiki/J%C5%8De) ( 浄衣 ) is a garment worn in Japan by people attending religious ceremonies and activities, including Buddhist and Shinto related occasions. Not only Shinto (/wiki/Shinto) and Buddhist priests can be found wearing Jōe at rituals, but laymen as well, for example when participating in pilgrimage such as the Shikoku Pilgrimage (/wiki/Shikoku_Pilgrimage) . The garment is usually white or yellow and is made of linen or silk depending on its kind and use. The Shinto priest who wears the jōe is attired in a peaked cap (/wiki/Cap) called tate-eboshi , an outer tunic called the jōe proper, an outer robe called jōe no sodegukuri no o , an undergarment called hitoe , ballooning trousers called sashinuki or nubakama , and a girdle called jōe no ate-obi . See also [ edit ] Degrees of Eastern Orthodox monasticism (/wiki/Degrees_of_Eastern_Orthodox_monasticism) Religious dress (/wiki/Religious_dress) Tonsure (/wiki/Tonsure) Zucchetto (/wiki/Zucchetto) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEKieschnick200390_1-0) Kieschnick 2003 (#CITEREFKieschnick2003) , p. 90. ^ Jump up to: a b Kieschnick 2003 (#CITEREFKieschnick2003) , p. 89. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEHino200455_3-0) Hino 2004 (#CITEREFHino2004) , p. 55. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEHino200455–56_4-0) Hino 2004 (#CITEREFHino2004) , pp. 55–56. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTESujato2012i_5-0) Sujato 2012 (#CITEREFSujato2012) , p. i. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEMohrTsedroen2010266_6-0) Mohr & Tsedroen 2010 (#CITEREFMohrTsedroen2010) , p. 266. ^ Jump up to: a b Rinpoche 1999 (#CITEREFRinpoche1999) , p. 16. ^ (#cite_ref-8) "Why do nuns (and monks) wear habits?" (https://aleteia.org/2020/07/09/why-do-nuns-and-others-in-religious-life-wear-habits/) . Aleteia — Catholic Spirituality, Lifestyle, World News, and Culture . 2020-07-09 . Retrieved 2024-02-15 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Our Religious Habit" (https://houstondominicans.org/our-religious-habit) . Dominican Sisters . Retrieved 2021-02-08 . ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEDuBois201790_10-0) DuBois 2017 (#CITEREFDuBois2017) , p. 90. ^ (#cite_ref-11) Matthew 11:29–30 (https://bible.oremus.org/?passage=Matthew%2011:29–30&version=nrsv) Bibliography [ edit ] DuBois, Thomas A. (12 December 2017). Sacred to the Touch: Nordic and Baltic Religious Wood Carving . University of Washington Press. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-295-74242-7 . Hino, Shoun (2004). Three Mountains and Seven Rivers . Motilal Banarsidass Publ. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-81-208-2468-3 . Kieschnick, John (2003). The Impact of Buddhism on Chinese Material Culture . Oxfordshire: Princeton University Press. Rinpoche, Dudjom (1999). Perfect Conduct: Ascertaining the Three Vows . Wisdom Publications. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0861710836 . Sujato, Bhante (/wiki/Bhante_Sujato) (2012). Sects & Sectarianism: The Origins of Buddhist Schools . Santipada. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781921842085 . Mohr, Thea; Tsedroen, Jampa, eds. (2010). Dignity and Discipline: Reviving Full Ordination for Buddhist Nuns . Simon and Schuster. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0861715886 . Further reading [ edit ] Dwyer-McNulty, Sally (2014). Common Threads: A Cultural History of Clothing in American Catholicism . Chapel Hill, NC: University of North Carolina Press. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-4696-1409-0 . External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Religious habits (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Religious_habits) . New Catholic Dictionary (https://web.archive.org/web/20070107022157/https://www.catholic-forum.com/saints/ncd03798.htm) Images of medieval monks and nuns in the dress of their Orders (http://www.historyfish.net/monastics/monasticorders.html) (Public Domain images and text) Many photographs of nuns and sisters in the dress of their respective orders (http://www.nunsandsisters.com/Photographs.html) Catholic Sisters International Collection, University of Dayton Special Collections (http://digital.udayton.edu/cdm/landingpage/collection/nuns) (photographs of reproductions of over 130 religious habits) v t e Consecrated life (/wiki/Consecrated_life) in the Catholic Church (/wiki/Catholic_Church) Types (/wiki/Institute_of_consecrated_life) Consecrated virgin (/wiki/Consecrated_virgin) Hermit (/wiki/Hermit) Religious institute (/wiki/Religious_institute) Orders (/wiki/Religious_order_(Catholic)) Monastic (/wiki/Christian_monasticism) Cenobitic (/wiki/Cenobitic_monasticism) Chapter 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(/wiki/Religious_sister_(Catholic)) Nun (/wiki/Nun#Distinction_between_a_nun_and_a_religious_sister) Hermit (/wiki/Hermit) Anchorite (/wiki/Anchorite) Novice (/wiki/Novitiate) Master (/wiki/Novice_master) Oblate (/wiki/Oblate) Postulant (/wiki/Postulant) Lay brother (/wiki/Lay_brother) Porter (/wiki/Porter_(monastery)) Other Asceticism (/wiki/Asceticism#Christianity) Foolishness for Christ (/wiki/Foolishness_for_Christ) Tonsure (/wiki/Tonsure) Vocational discernment (/wiki/Vocational_discernment_in_the_Catholic_Church) Monastic cell (/wiki/Monastic_cell) List of religious institutes (/wiki/List_of_religious_institutes) Catholicism portal (/wiki/Portal:Catholicism) Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) : National Germany (https://d-nb.info/gnd/4172725-3) Israel (http://olduli.nli.org.il/F/?func=find-b&local_base=NLX10&find_code=UID&request=987007541142805171) United States (https://id.loc.gov/authorities/sh85086723) NewPP limit report Parsed by 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Japanese multinational retail holding company Fast Retailing Co., Ltd. Native name 株式会社ファーストリテイリング Company type Public (/wiki/Public_Company) Traded as (/wiki/Ticker_symbol) TYO (/wiki/Tokyo_Stock_Exchange) : 9983 (https://www2.jpx.co.jp/tseHpFront/StockSearch.do?callJorEFlg=1&method=topsearch&topSearchStr=9983) SEHK (/wiki/Hong_Kong_Stock_Exchange) : 6288 (https://www.hkex.com.hk/Market-Data/Securities-Prices/Equities/Equities-Quote?sym=6288&sc_lang=en) TOPIX Large 70 Component (/wiki/TOPIX) Industry Retail (/wiki/Retailing) Founded As Men’s Shop Ogori Shoji March 1949 ; 75 years ago ( 1949-03 ) As Fast Retailing September 1991 ; 32 years ago ( 1991-09 ) 1963 as Ogori Shoji Co., Ltd. ( Ube, Yamaguchi (/wiki/Ube,_Yamaguchi) , Japan) 1991 as Fast Retailing Co., Ltd. (name change) Founder Hitoshi Yanai Headquarters Yamaguchi, Yamaguchi (/wiki/Yamaguchi,_Yamaguchi) , Japan Area served Worldwide Key people Tadashi Yanai (/wiki/Tadashi_Yanai) ( Chairman (/wiki/Chairman) , President (/wiki/President_(corporate_title)) and CEO (/wiki/Chief_executive_officer) ) Shimpei Otani ( CTO (/wiki/Chief_technology_officer) ) Makoto Hoketsu ( CIO (/wiki/Chief_information_officer) ) Products Clothing (/wiki/Clothing) , accessories (/wiki/Fashion_accessory) Revenue ¥ (/wiki/Japanese_yen) 2,130 billion (/wiki/1,000,000,000) (FY2018) [1] (#cite_note-financials2018-1) Operating income (/wiki/Earnings_before_interest_and_taxes) ¥236 billion (FY2018) [1] (#cite_note-financials2018-1) Net income (/wiki/Net_income) ¥1,050 billion (FY2018) [1] (#cite_note-financials2018-1) Total assets (/wiki/Asset) ¥1,953 billion (FY2018) [1] (#cite_note-financials2018-1) Number of employees 52,839 (2018) [2] (#cite_note-compinfo-2) Subsidiaries (/wiki/Subsidiary) Comptoir des Cotonniers (/wiki/Comptoir_des_Cotonniers) Helmut Lang (/wiki/Helmut_Lang_(fashion_brand)) GU (/wiki/G.u.) J Brand (/wiki/J_Brand) Princesse Tam-Tam Theory (/wiki/Theory_(clothing_retailer)) Uniqlo (/wiki/Uniqlo) Website www (http://www.fastretailing.com/eng) .fastretailing (http://www.fastretailing.com/eng) .com (http://www.fastretailing.com/eng) /eng (http://www.fastretailing.com/eng) Fast Retailing Co., Ltd. ( 株式会社ファーストリテイリング , Kabushiki Kaisha Fāsuto Riteiringu ) is a public Japanese multinational (/wiki/Multinational_corporation) retail (/wiki/Retail) holding company (/wiki/Holding_company) . In addition to its primary subsidiary (/wiki/Subsidiary) Uniqlo (/wiki/Uniqlo) , it owns several other brands, including J Brand (/wiki/J_Brand) , Comptoir des Cotonniers (/wiki/Comptoir_des_Cotonniers) , GU (/wiki/GU_(retailer)) , Princesse Tam-Tam, and Theory (/wiki/Theory_(clothing_retailer)) . History [ edit ] The company was founded as Men's Shop Ogori Shoji in 1949, and formally incorporated as Ogōri Shōji Co., Ltd. in 1963 by Hitoshi Yanai. In 1984, the company, which ran a menswear store in Ube, Yamaguchi (/wiki/Ube,_Yamaguchi) , opened a new casual-wear store named Unique Clothing Warehouse in Hiroshima (/wiki/Hiroshima) City; this was the forebear of Uniqlo (/wiki/Uniqlo) . [3] (#cite_note-uniqlo_syndrome-3) In September 1991, Ogori Shoji changed its name to Fast Retailing Co., Ltd., and was listed on the Hiroshima Stock Exchange in July 1994. [3] (#cite_note-uniqlo_syndrome-3) In February 1999, it was listed on the first section (large companies) of the Tokyo Stock Exchange (/wiki/Tokyo_Stock_Exchange) . [3] (#cite_note-uniqlo_syndrome-3) The company also owns the American brand Theory (/wiki/Theory_(brand)) ; Fast Retailing acquired "an equity stake in Link Theory (/wiki/Link_Theory) Holdings Co Ltd, the marketer of the Theory (/wiki/Theory_(brand)) and Helmut Lang (/wiki/Helmut_Lang_(fashion_brand)) apparel brands, in 2004". [4] (#cite_note-4) It acquired the rest of the company in 2009. In 2007, it unsuccessfully offered a bid of US$ (/wiki/United_States_dollar) 900 million for Barneys New York (/wiki/Barneys_New_York) department store (/wiki/Department_store) to the Jones Apparel Group (/wiki/Jones_Apparel_Group) . In 2012, the company purchased an 80% stake of premium denim company J Brand (/wiki/J_Brand) for US$290 million and US$10 million in advisory legal fees. [5] (#cite_note-5) Companies portal (/wiki/Portal:Companies) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Japan portal (/wiki/Portal:Japan) Senior leadership [ edit ] Chairman [ edit ] Hitoshi Yanai (1963–1984) Tadashi Yanai (1984–present) [6] (#cite_note-:0-6) CEO [ edit ] Hitoshi Yanai (1963–1984) Tadashi Yanai (1984–present) [6] (#cite_note-:0-6) President [ edit ] Hitoshi Yanai (1963–1984) Tadashi Yanai (1984–2002) [6] (#cite_note-:0-6) Tadashi Yanai (2005–present); second term [6] (#cite_note-:0-6) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c d "Fast Retailing Results for Fiscal 2018 and Estimates for Fiscal 2019 (4,390KB)" (https://www.fastretailing.com/eng/ir/library/pdf/20181011_results_en.pdf) (PDF) . Fast Retailing Co., Ltd . Retrieved November 28, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-compinfo_2-0) "Overview | FAST RETAILING CO., LTD" (http://www.fastretailing.com/eng/about/company/) . Fast Retailing Co., Ltd . Retrieved November 28, 2018 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Uniqlo Syndrome . Toyo Keizai Shinpo Sha. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 4-492-76191-8 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/4-492-76191-8) Tenkai Japan. ASIN: B004PYDPOK. ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Apparel and textile industry factsheets" (http://www.just-style.com/factsheet.aspx?ID=156/) [ permanent dead link ] . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Li, Shan. "Fast Retailing buys majority stake in L.A. denim line J Brand" (http://articles.latimes.com/2012/dec/03/business/la-fi-mo-j-brand-jeans-fast-retailing-20121203) . LA Times . ^ Jump up to: a b c d "The man who clothes Asia: Uniqlo chief Tadashi Yanai" (https://www.ft.com/content/b8ec3aa1-32c5-4355-824a-8bf699d9aef3) . Financial Times . 23 October 2020. 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Costume and fashion in the 1980s Among women large hair-dos and puffed-up (/wiki/Big_hair) styles typified the decade. [1] (#cite_note-BrowneBrowne2001-1) ( Jackée Harry (/wiki/Jack%C3%A9e_Harry) , 1988 ) Fashion of the 1980s was characterized by a rejection of 1970s fashion (/wiki/1970s_fashion) . Punk fashion (/wiki/Punk_fashion) began as a reaction against both the hippie (/wiki/Hippie) movement of the past decades and the materialist (/wiki/Materialist) values of the current decade. [2] (#cite_note-2) The first half of the decade was relatively tame in comparison to the second half, which was when apparel (/wiki/Apparel) became very bright and vivid in appearance. One of the features of fashion in the second half of the 1980s was the interest in alternative forms. In the 1980s, alternative trends (/wiki/Alternative_fashion) became widespread. [3] (#cite_note-3) This phenomenon has been associated with such phenomena as street style (/wiki/Street_style) , punk (/wiki/Punk_rock) and post-punk (/wiki/Post-punk) . [4] (#cite_note-4) During the 1980s, shoulder pads (/wiki/Shoulder_pad_(fashion)) , which also inspired " power dressing (/wiki/Power_dressing) ," became common among the growing number of career-driven women. [5] (#cite_note-5) [6] (#cite_note-6) Hair in the 1980s was typically big, curly (/wiki/Curly_hair) , bouffant (/wiki/Bouffant) and heavily styled. Television shows such as Dynasty (/wiki/Dynasty_(1981_TV_series)) helped popularize the high volume bouffant and glamorous image associated with it. [7] (#cite_note-Brubaker2003-7) [8] (#cite_note-WeltersCunningham2005-8) Women in the 1980s wore bright, heavy makeup (/wiki/Makeup) . Everyday fashion in the 1980s consisted of light-colored lips, dark and thick eyelashes, and pink or red rouge (/wiki/Rouge_(cosmetics)) (otherwise known as blush). [9] (#cite_note-BatemanBenyahia2012-9) [10] (#cite_note-SteinbergKehler2010-10) Some of the top fashion models of the 1980s were Brooke Shields (/wiki/Brooke_Shields) , Christie Brinkley (/wiki/Christie_Brinkley) , Gia Carangi (/wiki/Gia_Carangi) , Joan Severance (/wiki/Joan_Severance) , Kim Alexis (/wiki/Kim_Alexis) , Carol Alt (/wiki/Carol_Alt) , Yasmin Le Bon (/wiki/Yasmin_Le_Bon) , Renée Simonsen (/wiki/Ren%C3%A9e_Simonsen) , Kelly Emberg (/wiki/Kelly_Emberg) , Inès de La Fressange (/wiki/In%C3%A8s_de_La_Fressange) , Tatjana Patitz (/wiki/Tatjana_Patitz) , Elle Macpherson (/wiki/Elle_Macpherson) , and Paulina Porizkova (/wiki/Paulina_Porizkova) . [ citation needed ] Women's fashion [ edit ] Early 1980s (1980–1982) [ edit ] A jelly shoe (/wiki/Jelly_shoe) . Minimalism [ edit ] Young woman in 1980 wearing a low-cut spaghetti strap dress. The early 1980s witnessed a backlash against the brightly colored disco fashions of the late 1970s in favor of a minimalist approach to fashion, with less emphasis on accessories. In the US and Europe, practicality was considered just as much as aesthetics. In the UK and America, clothing colors were subdued, quiet and basic; varying shades of brown, tan, cream, and orange were common. [11] (#cite_note-1980sFashionTrends-11) Fashionable clothing in the early 1980s included unisex and gender-specific attire. Widespread fashions for women in the early 1980s included sweaters (/wiki/Sweater) (including turtleneck (/wiki/Turtleneck) , crew neck (/wiki/Crew_neck) , and v-neck varieties); fur-lined puffer jackets; tunics (/wiki/Tunic) ; faux-fur (/wiki/Fake_fur) coats; velvet blazers (/wiki/Blazer) ; trench coats (/wiki/Trench_coat) (made in both fake and real leather); [11] (#cite_note-1980sFashionTrends-11) crop tops (/wiki/Crop_top) ; tube tops (/wiki/Tube_top) ; knee-length skirts (/wiki/Skirt) (of no prescribed length, as designers opted for choice); loose, flowy, knee-length dresses (with high-cut and low-cut necklines, varying sleeve lengths, and made in a variety of fabrics including cotton, silk, satin, and polyester); high-waisted loose pants; embroidered jeans; leather pants; and designer jeans, [11] (#cite_note-1980sFashionTrends-11) [12] (#cite_note-DesignerJeans80s-12) [13] (#cite_note-1980VH1-13) though jeans were not as widely worn as during the 1970s. [14] (#cite_note-14) [15] (#cite_note-15) Women's pants of the 1980s were, in general, worn with long inseams, and by 1982 the flared jeans of the 70s had gone out of fashion in favor of straight leg trousers. Continuing a trend begun during the late 1970s, cropped pants and revivals of 1950s and early '60s styles like pedal-pushers and Capri pants were popular. [16] (#cite_note-16) [17] (#cite_note-17) 1981 saw a brief fall vogue for knickers. [18] (#cite_note-18) [19] (#cite_note-19) From 1980 until 1983, popular women's accessories included thin belts, knee-high boots (/wiki/Knee-high_boot) with thick kitten heels (/wiki/Kitten_heel) , sneakers (/wiki/Sneakers) , jelly shoes (/wiki/Jelly_shoes) (a new trend at the time), [20] (#cite_note-20) mules (/wiki/Mule_(shoe)) , round-toed shoes and boots, jelly bracelets (inspired by Madonna in 1983), [21] (#cite_note-SexBracelets-21) shoes with thick heels, small, thin necklaces (with a variety of materials, such as gold and pearls), and small watches. [11] (#cite_note-1980sFashionTrends-11) Aerobics craze [ edit ] The fitness craze of the 1970s continued into the early 1980s. General women's street-wear worn in the early 1980s included ripped sweatshirts, [22] (#cite_note-22) tights, sweatpants, [23] (#cite_note-LegWarmers80s-23) and tracksuits (/wiki/Tracksuit) (especially ones made in velour). [11] (#cite_note-1980sFashionTrends-11) Athletic accessories were a massive trend in the early 1980s, and their popularity was largely boosted by the aerobics craze. This included leg warmers (/wiki/Leg_warmer) , wide belts, [23] (#cite_note-LegWarmers80s-23) elastic headbands, and athletic shoes known as ' sneakers (/wiki/Sneakers) ' in the US [24] (#cite_note-24) or 'trainers' in the UK. [25] (#cite_note-25) Increased Formality [ edit ] Continuing a trend begun by designers in 1978, [26] (#cite_note-26) [27] (#cite_note-27) [28] (#cite_note-28) the early 1980s also saw a return to pre-sixties ideas of formality, [29] (#cite_note-29) [30] (#cite_note-30) [31] (#cite_note-31) with coordinated suits, [32] (#cite_note-32) occasion dressing like forties-fifties-revival cocktail dresses and evening dresses, [33] (#cite_note-33) and even a revival of hats and gloves, [34] (#cite_note-34) [35] (#cite_note-35) [36] (#cite_note-36) though neither was required for women as they had once been. [37] (#cite_note-37) This was just one trend among many of the era. Along with this went an increased prevalence of black being worn, [38] (#cite_note-38) [39] (#cite_note-39) a trend that can be traced both to high-fashion designers [40] (#cite_note-40) and to late seventies punk fashions (/wiki/Punk_fashion) and their successors. [41] (#cite_note-41) [42] (#cite_note-42) Black would continue to be prominent in fashion into the early nineties. [43] (#cite_note-43) Professional fashion [ edit ] In the 1970s, more women were joining the work force, so, by the early 1980s, working women were no longer considered unusual. As a way to proclaim themselves as equals in the job market, women started to dress more seriously at work. Popular clothes for women in the job market include knee-length skirts, wide-legged slacks, a matching blazer, and a blouse (/wiki/Blouse) of a different color. Kitten-heeled shoes were often worn. [11] (#cite_note-1980sFashionTrends-11) Formal shoes became more comfortable during this period in time, with manufacturers adding soles that were more flexible and supportive. [44] (#cite_note-44) The shoes with moderately spiked heels and relatively pointy toes from the very late 1970s remained a fashion trend. Mid-1980s (1983–1986) [ edit ] A young woman from the mid-1980s wearing a denim mini skirt with two thin belts. Bright colors [ edit ] Women's fashion in the early 1980s became more colorful around 1982. This included long wool coats, long flared skirts (/wiki/Skirt) , slim miniskirts (/wiki/Miniskirts) , slightly tapered pants and stirrup ones (/wiki/Stirrup_pants) , designer jeans, [12] (#cite_note-DesignerJeans80s-12) spandex (/wiki/Spandex) cycling shorts (/wiki/Cycling_shorts) , [45] (#cite_note-Spandex80s&90s-45) high waisted ankle length jeans and pants plain or pleated, extremely long and bulky sweaters, jumpsuits (/wiki/Jumpsuit) , pastel colors, "off-the-shoulder" sweatshirts over tight jeans, leather trenchcoats (/wiki/Trenchcoat) , fur coats, extremely large scarves (/wiki/Scarf) , beanies (/wiki/Beanie_(seamed_cap)) , leather gloves, and dresses worn with wide or thin belts. The aerobics craze of the early 1980s continued into the mid-1980s, but the clothes became more colorful than they were before. At the same time, black continued its march toward ubiquity, becoming the new neutral, especially among the trendy. [46] (#cite_note-46) This reflected both the increased formality revived by high-fashion designers at the end of the seventies and the continuing influence of punk (/wiki/Punk_fashion) and its successors like postpunk and goth. It became more and more common to see not only black clothes but also stark black eyeliner, hair dyed black, black nail polish, and even black lipstick, on both sexes. Black would continue to dominate into the nineties. [47] (#cite_note-47) Women's shoes of the mid-1980s included strappy sandals, kitten-heeled sandals, pumps (/wiki/Court_shoe) , ballet flats (/wiki/Ballet_flat) , boat shoes (/wiki/Boat_shoe) , slouchy flat boots, Keds, and white Sperry's sneakers. [11] (#cite_note-1980sFashionTrends-11) In the 1980s, rising pop star Madonna (/wiki/Madonna) proved to be very influential to female fashions. She first emerged on the dance music scene with her "street urchin" look consisting of short skirts worn over leggings, necklaces, rubber bracelets, fishnet gloves, hairbows, long layered strings of beads, bleached, untidy hair with dark roots, headbands (/wiki/Headband) , and lace ribbons. In her album " Like a Virgin (/wiki/Like_a_Virgin_(album)) " phase, millions of young girls around the world emulated her fashion example that included brassieres worn as outerwear, huge crucifix jewelry, lace gloves, tulle skirts, and boytoy belts. Gloves (sometimes laced or fingerless) were popularized by Madonna, as well as fishnet stockings and layers of beaded necklaces. Short, tight Lycra (/wiki/Lycra) or leather (/wiki/Leather) miniskirts and tubular dresses were also worn, as were cropped bolero (/wiki/Bolero) -style jackets. Black was the preferred color. With the new fashion's most extreme forms, young women would forgo conventional outer-garments for vintage-style bustiers (/wiki/Bustier) with lacy slips and several large crucifixes. This was both an assertion of sexual freedom and a conscious rejection of prevailing androgynous fashions. Many of the clothes worn by pop stars like Madonna during this period had their origins on the streets of London [48] (#cite_note-48) or came from London designers, [49] (#cite_note-49) as London retained the trend-setting reputation it had regained during the late seventies punk (/wiki/Punk_fashion) period with the work of Vivienne Westwood (/wiki/Vivienne_Westwood) . In 1983–84, London designers like Katharine Hamnett (/wiki/Katharine_Hamnett) , PX, BodyMap (/wiki/BodyMap) , [50] (#cite_note-50) and Crolla (/wiki/Crolla) came to international attention, [51] (#cite_note-51) launching trends later picked up by savvy designers like Jean-Paul Gaultier (/wiki/Jean-Paul_Gaultier) [52] (#cite_note-52) in other fashion capitals, savvy pop figures like Madonna, and ultimately the general public. [53] (#cite_note-53) [54] (#cite_note-54) Many of the clothes worn by Madonna in 1983-85 – tube skirts, oversized tops, "Boy Toy" belt buckles, head wraps, and flat, black, buckled, pointy-toed ankle boots – were from avant-garde UK designers like PX, [55] (#cite_note-55) BodyMap (/wiki/BodyMap) , [56] (#cite_note-56) and Peter Fox. The most internationally recognizable styles to come out of this milieu were probably the large, tapestry-like floral prints from Crolla (/wiki/Crolla) and the oversized "message shirts" with large block lettering from Katharine Hamnett (/wiki/Katharine_Hamnett) . Crolla (/wiki/Crolla) 's giant cabbage rose prints, modeled after old chintz drapery fabric [57] (#cite_note-57) and needlework, seemed ubiquitous in 1984 and '85, initially shown by the designer on sixties-revival Nehru jackets [58] (#cite_note-58) and avant-garde UK street silhouettes like oversized sweaters and ankle-length tube skirts but soon picked up by Jean-Paul Gaultier (/wiki/Jean-Paul_Gaultier) in Paris and, before long, mass-marketed everywhere, [59] (#cite_note-59) [60] (#cite_note-60) especially popular in drop-waist, bertha-collared, puff-sleeved dresses to the lower calf put out by companies like Laura Ashley (/wiki/Laura_Ashley) and worn with matching large hair bows on the back of the head. Katharine Hamnett (/wiki/Katharine_Hamnett) 's graphic "message shirts", oversized white t-shirts with big, black, block lettering spelling out social and political messages opposing military buildup, supporting the environment, and other messages less clear, became iconic garments of the period, [61] (#cite_note-61) with Hamnett famously wearing an anti-nuclear one in the presence of Margaret Thatcher. [62] (#cite_note-62) Her "Choose Life" one, originally intended as a pro-environment message by the UK designer, was ironically picked up by supporters of the new anti-abortion movement in the US that had newly branded itself "pro-life" under Reagan's influence, a use Hamnett strongly opposed. Power dressing [ edit ] President Ronald Reagan and his wife, Nancy (/wiki/Nancy_Reagan) , are seen with Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis. Among the most prominent shoulder pad and power dress designers was Claude Montana (/wiki/Claude_Montana) , who was also known as "the King of the Shoulder Pad." [63] (#cite_note-shoulderpadking-63) [64] (#cite_note-64) Montana's shoulder pad style was credited with defining the "power dressing" era of the 1980s. [63] (#cite_note-shoulderpadking-63) Another prominent shoulder pad designer of the 1980s power dressing era was Thierry Mugler (/wiki/Thierry_Mugler) . [65] (#cite_note-65) The television prime time shows Dallas (/wiki/Dallas_(1978_TV_series)) and, in particular, Dynasty (/wiki/Dynasty_(1981_TV_series)) influenced increasingly oversized shoulder pads (/wiki/Shoulder_pads_(fashion)) . Shoulder pads, popularized by Joan Collins (/wiki/Joan_Collins) and Linda Evans (/wiki/Linda_Evans) from the soap opera (/wiki/Soap_opera) Dynasty (/wiki/Dynasty_(1981_TV_series)) were popular from the mid-1980s to the early 1990s. Dallas (/wiki/Dallas_(1978_TV_series)) , however, promoted displays of wealth involving jewelry (/wiki/Jewelry) and sparkling clothing. [66] (#cite_note-66) Meanwhile, women's fashion and business shoes revisited the pointed toes and spiked heels that were popular in the 1950s and early 1960s. Some stores stocked canvas or satin covered fashion shoes in white and dyed them to the customer's preferred color, preferably bright colors. By this period, women had become much more confident in the workplace and had advanced in their careers. In this decade, women wanted to fit into higher management levels by emulating a masculine appearance through fashion to look more capable. Hence, they would wear empowering garments that portrayed masculinity, thus making them seem more professional by fitting in with the male majority. This would be accomplished with attributes such as wider shoulders with the aid of padding and larger sleeves. [67] (#cite_note-67) Other items included dresses worn with skinny or thick belts, pleated or plain skirts, tights or pantyhose, above the ankle length pants sometimes worn with pantyhose or tights underneath, ballet flat (/wiki/Ballet_flat) dress shoes, long sweaters, boat shoes and slouchy flat short length boots. After the western economic boom of the mid-1980s, the younger generation had a decreased influence in fashion as they had less of an impact on the market. [68] (#cite_note-68) The main consumer became the older generations that were more financially stable and were influenced by international political news. Thatcherism (/wiki/Thatcherism) was promoted in the UK by the British Conservative Party (/wiki/Conservative_Party_(UK)) . The female leader of the British conservative party, Margaret Thatcher (/wiki/Margaret_Thatcher) , in her power suit quickly became one of the most well-known symbols of the 1980s. Suits worn by Thatcher were usually single color toned with a matching hat, jacket and skirt, that ends below the knee. A wide shoulder and pearl necklace was also part of her regular attire. Her political style was straightforward, effective and sometimes criticized as not empathetic enough. But there is no doubt that her appearance portrayed her ability, power and authority, which is what a lot of working women at that era desired. [69] (#cite_note-69) [70] (#cite_note-70) Late 1980s (1987–1989) [ edit ] Consumer-friendly fashions [ edit ] From 1987 until the early 1990s, the mini skirt was the only length supported by fashion designers. Although skirts of any length were acceptable to wear in the years before, all attention was given to the short skirt, especially among teenage girls and young women worn with tights, pantyhose, leggings (/wiki/Leggings) , or slouch socks (/wiki/Slouch_socks) . Shoulder pads became increasingly smaller. [11] (#cite_note-1980sFashionTrends-11) Accessories popular in Britain, France and America included bright-colored shoes with thin heels, narrow multicolored belts, berets (/wiki/Beret) , lacy gloves, beaded necklaces, and plastic bracelets. [11] (#cite_note-1980sFashionTrends-11) Women's apparel in the late 1980s included jackets (both cropped and long), coats (both cloth and fake fur), reversible inside-out coats (leather on one side, fake fur on the other), rugby sweatshirts, [11] (#cite_note-1980sFashionTrends-11) sweater dresses, taffeta (/wiki/Taffeta) and pouf dresses, baby doll dresses worn with capri leggings (/wiki/Leggings) or bike shorts, slouch socks (/wiki/Slouch_socks) , and Keds (/wiki/Keds_(shoes)) or Sperrys (/wiki/Sperry_Top-Sider) or with opaque tights and flats (/wiki/Ballet_flat) or opaque tights and slouch socks (/wiki/Slouch_socks) , neon or pastel colored shortalls (/wiki/Shortalls) , denim pinafore dresses (/wiki/Pinafore_dress) , Keds (/wiki/Keds_(shoes)) , Sperrys (/wiki/Sperry_Top-Sider) , ballet flats (/wiki/Ballet_flat) , jumpsuits, oversized or extra long t-shirts, sweaters, sweatshirts, blouses and button down shirts popularly worn with leggings and stirrup pants, miniskirts, stretch pants, tapered pants, high waisted ankle length jeans and pants plain or pleated skirts worn with leggings, [71] (#cite_note-71) [72] (#cite_note-72) dressed up leggings (/wiki/Leggings) outfit of leggings (/wiki/Leggings) with an oversized v-neck sweater over a turtleneck, slouch socks (/wiki/Slouch_socks) , Keds (shoes) (/wiki/Keds_(shoes)) or Sperrys (/wiki/Sperry_Top-Sider) , and bangs (/wiki/Bangs_(hair)) with a headband (/wiki/Headband) or ponytail (/wiki/Ponytail) and scrunchie (/wiki/Scrunchie) , happy pants (homemade pants made in bold designs with bright colors), and opaque tights (/wiki/Tights) . [11] (#cite_note-1980sFashionTrends-11) Popular colors included neon hues, plum (/wiki/Plum_(color)) , gold, pinks, blues and bright wines (/wiki/Wine_(color)) . Asian fashion [ edit ] In Mainland China, the unisex Zhongshan suit (/wiki/Zhongshan_suit) [73] (#cite_note-73) declined after the death of Mao Zedong (/wiki/Mao_Zedong) , [74] (#cite_note-74) the removal of the Gang of Four (/wiki/Gang_of_Four) , and the liberalisation of trade links and international relations during the mid and late '80s. Wealthier Chinese women began wearing Western inspired fashions again, [75] (#cite_note-75) including red or yellow miniskirts [76] (#cite_note-76) in addition to the more typical shirt dresses (/wiki/Shirt_dress) , white plimsolls (/wiki/Plimsolls) and dacron (/wiki/Dacron) blouses. [77] (#cite_note-77) The late 1980s also witnessed the beginnings of Indo Western fashion (/wiki/Indo_Western_fashion) and the haute couture (/wiki/Haute_couture) fashion in India (/wiki/Fashion_in_India) that would eventually gain global recognition in the 90s. Colors like red and white [78] (#cite_note-78) were popular, often with intricate embroidery. Although most women continued to wear the saree (/wiki/Saree) , Bollywood (/wiki/Bollywood) actresses also had access to Western designer outfits and locally designed garments like the Anarkali ballgown. [79] (#cite_note-79) Japanese fashion designers Yohji Yamamoto (/wiki/Yohji_Yamamoto) , Rei Kawakubo (/wiki/Rei_Kawakubo) , and Issey Miyake (/wiki/Issey_Miyake) started a new school of fashion during the late 1980s [80] (#cite_note-80) called "Japanese Avant-Garde Fashion", which combined Asian cultural inspiration with mainstream European fashion. The Japanese spirit and culture that they presented to Europeans caused a fashion revolution in Europe which continued to spread worldwide. [81] (#cite_note-81) Yamamoto, Kawakubo and Miyake redefined the concepts of deconstruction and minimalism that were used in fashion design worldwide [82] (#cite_note-Sun2013-82) by pioneering monochromatic, androgynous, asymmetrical, and baggy looks. [83] (#cite_note-83) Additionally, the designs were unisex which were inspired by the design of traditional Japanese kimono (/wiki/Kimono) . According to Sun, "Traditional Japanese kimonos don't have strict rules for menswear or women's wear, therefore, for the basic style, kimonos have similar style and decoration for men and women". [82] (#cite_note-Sun2013-82) Geometric diamond patterns, horizontal stripes, crinolines (/wiki/Crinoline) , layered kimono inspired blouses, dresses made from a single piece of fabric, [84] (#cite_note-84) drop crotch Thai fisherman pants (/wiki/Thai_fisherman_pants) , space age (/wiki/Space_age) inspired laser cut (/wiki/Laser_cut) outfits, mesh, jackets with kanji (/wiki/Kanji) motifs, and monochromatic black and white outfits were common, as was the use of the traditional Japanese colors (/wiki/Japanese_colors) red, mizudori (/wiki/Mizudori) and sora iro (/wiki/Sora_iro) . [85] (#cite_note-85) [ unreliable source? ] In The Japanese Revolution in Paris Fashion, Kawamura describes this new concept: "[...] traditionally in Japanese society, sexuality is never revealed overtly, and this ideology is reflected in the style of kimono, especially for women, these avant-garde designers reconstructed the whole notion of women's clothing style; thus they do not reveal sexuality, but rather conceal it just like the kimono". [86] (#cite_note-transitionandinfluenceprojects-86) [ unreliable source? ] The three designers set the stage for the beginning of postmodern interpretation on the part of those who design clothes that break the boundary between the West and the East, fashion and anti-fashion, and modern and anti-modern. [86] (#cite_note-transitionandinfluenceprojects-86) Men's fashion [ edit ] Early 1980s (1980–1982) [ edit ] Athletic clothing [ edit ] Sylvester Stallone (/wiki/Sylvester_Stallone) in 1983 In the early 1980s, fashion had moved away from the unkempt hippie (/wiki/Hippie) look and overdressed disco (/wiki/Disco) style of the late 1970s. Athletic clothes were more popular than jeans during this period, as were more subdued colors. Popular colors were black, white, indigo, forest green, burgundy, and different shades of browns, tans, and oranges. Velour, velvet, and polyester were popular fabrics used in clothes, especially button-up and v shirts. Looser pants remained popular during this time, being fairly wide but straight, and tighter shirts were especially popular, sometimes in a cropped athletic style. The general public, at this time, wanted to wear low-maintenance clothing with more basic colors, as the global recession going on at the time kept extravagant clothes out of reach. [11] (#cite_note-1980sFashionTrends-11) Also worn were striped tube socks (/wiki/Tube_sock) sometimes worn with the top folded over worn with shorts. It was not uncommon to see parents especially fathers wearing these along with their kids. Popular clothing in the early 1980s worn by men included tracksuits, [87] (#cite_note-uniexposed-87) v-neck sweaters, polyester and velour polo-neck shirts, sports jerseys, straight-leg jeans, jeans rolled to show off their slouch socks (/wiki/Slouch_socks) , polyester button-ups, cowboy boots (/wiki/Cowboy_boot) , [88] (#cite_note-CowboyBoots80s-88) beanies, and hoodies. Around this time it became acceptable for men to wear sports coats and slacks to places that previously required a suit. [11] (#cite_note-1980sFashionTrends-11) In the UK, children's trousers remained flared, but only slightly. New wave influence [ edit ] From the early to mid-1980s, post-punk (/wiki/Post-punk) and new wave music (/wiki/New_wave_music) groups influenced mainstream male and female fashion. Commercially made slim-fitting suits, thin neckties (/wiki/Necktie) in leather or bold patterns, striped T-shirts, Members Only jackets (/wiki/Members_Only_(fashion_brand)) , clubwear (/wiki/Clubwear) , metallic fabric shirts, cat eye glasses (/wiki/Cat_eye_glasses) , horn rim glasses (/wiki/Horn_rim_glasses) with brightly colored frames, androgynous neon colored makeup, [89] (#cite_note-89) and pristine leather jackets (/wiki/Leather_jacket) were widely worn. [90] (#cite_note-90) Common hairstyles included a short quiff (/wiki/Quiff) , and typical unisex colors for clothing included turquoise (/wiki/Turquoise_(color)) , teal (/wiki/Teal) , red, neon yellow (/wiki/Neon_yellow) and white on a blue screen. Preppy look [ edit ] David Byrne (/wiki/David_Byrne) wearing a preppy style seersucker (/wiki/Seersucker) blazer and white Oxford shirt (/wiki/Oxford_shirt) , 1986. In response to the punk fashion of the mid-late 1970s, [13] (#cite_note-1980VH1-13) there was a throwback to the 1950s Ivy League (/wiki/Ivy_League) style. This revival came to be definitively summarized in an enormously popular paperback released in 1980: The Official Preppy Handbook (/wiki/The_Official_Preppy_Handbook) . Popular preppy clothing for men included Oxford shirts (/wiki/Oxford_shirt) , sweaters, turtlenecks (/wiki/Turtleneck) , polo shirts with popped collars (/wiki/Popped_collar) , [13] (#cite_note-1980VH1-13) khaki slacks, argyle socks, dress pants, Hush Puppies (/wiki/Hush_Puppies) Oxford shoes (/wiki/Oxford_shoe) , Sperrys boat shoes, Eastland boat shoes, brogues (/wiki/Brogues) , suspenders (/wiki/Suspenders) , seersucker (/wiki/Seersucker) or striped linen suits, corduroy (/wiki/Corduroy) , and cable knit sweaters that were often worn tied around the shoulders. [91] (#cite_note-91) Country style [ edit ] Ronald and Nancy Reagan in Western clothing, 1985 From the late 70s until the mid 80s, Western clothing (/wiki/Western_clothing) made a comeback in America due to a resurgence of interest in country music (/wiki/Country_music) , line dancing (/wiki/Line_dancing) , western films (/wiki/Western_film) , heartland rock (/wiki/Heartland_rock) , contemporary movies like Urban Cowboy (/wiki/Urban_Cowboy) , television series like Dallas (/wiki/Dallas) , sports like cowboy action shooting (/wiki/Cowboy_action_shooting) , and the fashions and culture of the 1950s (/wiki/1950s_fashion) . [92] (#cite_note-92) During the early 80s, many hard rock (/wiki/Hard_rock) and southern rock (/wiki/Southern_rock) artists from the 70s such as Alabama (/wiki/Alabama_(band)) , .38 Special (/wiki/.38_Special_(band)) , The Flying Burrito Brothers (/wiki/The_Flying_Burrito_Brothers) , the Grateful Dead (/wiki/Grateful_Dead) , and the Bellamy Brothers (/wiki/Bellamy_Brothers) found renewed success playing country music. This style, sometimes derisively referred to as drugstore cowboy (/wiki/Drugstore_cowboy) , urban cowboy (/wiki/Urban_cowboy) or redneck (/wiki/Redneck) chic, was popular not only in the Southwest, but also in urban areas. Western clothing was also popular in other places with a large country music fanbase especially Australia (/wiki/Australian_country_music) , Canada (/wiki/Canadian_country_music) , the Republic of Ireland (/wiki/Country_and_Irish) , and Southwest England (/wiki/Scrumpy_and_Western) . Cowboy boots (/wiki/Cowboy_boot) , elaborately embroidered western shirts (/wiki/Western_shirt) with pearl snaps (/wiki/Pearl_snap) inspired by Nudie Cohn (/wiki/Nudie_Cohn) 's bespoke pieces, bolo ties (/wiki/Bolo_tie) , Stetsons (/wiki/Stetson) , double denim "Texan tuxedos", jean jackets (/wiki/Jean_jacket) , and blue jeans (/wiki/Jeans) were popular among both sexes. [93] (#cite_note-93) Notable trendsetters included Merle Haggard (/wiki/Merle_Haggard) , Willie Nelson (/wiki/Willie_Nelson) , Kenny Rogers (/wiki/Kenny_Rogers) , Dolly Parton (/wiki/Dolly_Parton) , Stevie Ray Vaughan (/wiki/Stevie_Ray_Vaughan) , president Ronald Reagan (/wiki/Ronald_Reagan) , Marty Stuart (/wiki/Marty_Stuart) , action heroes like Chuck Norris (/wiki/Chuck_Norris) , Patrick Swayze (/wiki/Patrick_Swayze) or Kevin Costner (/wiki/Kevin_Costner) , and fashion designers like Steve Weil of Rockmount (/wiki/Rockmount) . [94] (#cite_note-94) [95] (#cite_note-95) Mid-1980s (1983–1986) [ edit ] Miami Vice / Magnum P.I. look and Michael Jackson's influence [ edit ] In the mid-1980s, popular trends included wool (/wiki/Wool) sport coats, Levi 501s, Hawaiian shirts, shell suits, hand-knit sweaters, sports shirts, hoodies, flannel shirts (/wiki/Flannel_shirt) , reversible flannel vests, jackets with the insides quilted, nylon (/wiki/Nylon) jackets, gold rings, spandex (/wiki/Spandex) cycling shorts (/wiki/Cycling_shorts) , [45] (#cite_note-Spandex80s&90s-45) cowboy boots, [88] (#cite_note-CowboyBoots80s-88) Sperrys boat shoes, Sperrys white sneakers, Eastland boat shoes, khaki pants with jagged seams, [11] (#cite_note-1980sFashionTrends-11) and through the end of the decade high waisted ankle length jeans and pants plain or pleated. The mid-1980s brought an explosion of colorful styles in men's clothing, prompted by television series such as Miami Vice (/wiki/Miami_Vice) and Magnum, P.I. (/wiki/Magnum,_P.I.) . This resulted in trends such as t-shirts (/wiki/T-shirt) underneath expensive suit (/wiki/Suit_(clothing)) jackets with broad, padded shoulders, Hawaiian shirts (/wiki/Hawaiian_shirt) (complemented with sport coats (/wiki/Sport_coat) , often with top-stitched lapels for a "custom-tailored" look), and (in counterpoint to the bright shirt) jackets that were often gray, tan, rust or white. Easy-care micro-suede and corduroy jackets became popular choices, especially those with a Western style. Michael Jackson (/wiki/Michael_Jackson) was also a big influence of teenage boys' and young men's fashions, such as matching red/black leather pants and jackets, white gloves, sunglasses and oversized, slouch shouldered faded leather jackets with puffy sleeves. Power dressing [ edit ] 1940s inspired pinstripe suit with large shoulder pads and double breasted fastening. These " power suits (/wiki/Power_suit_(fashion)) " were fashionable in Britain from the early 1980s until the late 1990s. Men's business attire saw a return of pinstripes for the first time since the 1970s. The new pinstripes were much wider than in 1930s and 1940s suits but were similar to the 1970s styles. Three-piece suits began their decline in the early 1980s and lapels on suits became very narrow, akin to that of the early 1960s. While vests ( waistcoats (/wiki/Waistcoat) ) in the 1970s had commonly been worn high with six or five buttons, those made in the early 1980s often had only four buttons and were made to be worn low. [96] (#cite_note-telegraph1-96) [97] (#cite_note-autogenerated1-97) The thin ties briefly popular in the early '80s were soon replaced by wider, striped neckties, generally in more conservative colors than the kipper ties (/wiki/Kipper_tie) of the '70s. Double breasted suits inspired by the 1940s (/wiki/1940s_fashion) were reintroduced in the 1980s by designers like Giorgio Armani, Ralph Lauren, and Anne Klein. [96] (#cite_note-telegraph1-96) [97] (#cite_note-autogenerated1-97) They were known as 'power suits', and were typically made in navy blue (/wiki/Navy_blue) , charcoal grey (/wiki/Charcoal_grey) or air force blue (/wiki/Air_force_blue) . [96] (#cite_note-telegraph1-96) [97] (#cite_note-autogenerated1-97) [98] (#cite_note-vogue2-98) Tropical clothing [ edit ] Mobutu (/wiki/Mobutu) wearing safari jacket, 1983. As an alternative to the power suit, the safari jacket (/wiki/Safari_jacket) , Nehru suit (/wiki/Nehru_suit) and Mao suit (/wiki/Mao_suit) remained popular in Australia, South Africa, India, China, and Zaire (/wiki/Zaire) , where it was known as an Abacost (/wiki/Abacost) [99] (#cite_note-99) and worn with a leopard print hat resembling the Astrakhan cap (/wiki/Astrakhan_cap) . At the same time, young African dandies (/wiki/Dandies) known as sapeurs (/wiki/Sapeur) rebelled against the post- decolonisation (/wiki/Decolonisation) government's suppression of Western fashions [100] (#cite_note-100) by investing in expensive designer suits from Italy and France and listening to the soukous (/wiki/Soukous) music of Papa Wemba (/wiki/Papa_Wemba) . [101] (#cite_note-101) This continued until the kleptocratic (/wiki/Kleptocrat) dictator Mobutu (/wiki/Mobutu) 's deposition and death in the late 1990s, when the outbreak of a civil war in Zaire resulted in the sapeurs' disappearance until the 2010s. [102] (#cite_note-102) In Hawaii, Aloha shirts (/wiki/Aloha_shirt) and Bermuda shorts (/wiki/Bermuda_shorts) were worn on Aloha Fridays (/wiki/Aloha_Friday) . By the end of the decade, when the custom of casual Fridays (/wiki/Casual_Friday) had spread to the US mainland, this outfit had become acceptable as daily Hawaiian business wear. [103] (#cite_note-103) Elsewhere in the Caribbean and Latin America, especially Mexico, Ecuador, Colombia, [104] (#cite_note-104) and Cuba, men wore the guayabera (/wiki/Guayabera) shirt for semi-formal occasions in imitation of the presidents Fidel Castro (/wiki/Fidel_Castro) and Luis Echeverria (/wiki/Luis_Echeverria) . [105] (#cite_note-105) Late 1980s (1987–1989) [ edit ] Doc Martens [ edit ] Dr. Martens (/wiki/Dr._Martens) boots Doc Martens (/wiki/Doc_Marten) were dark shoes or boots with air-cushioned soles that were worn by both sexes in the 1980s. Originally picked up as essential item by early 70's Skinheads the Cherry Red 8 lacehole boots they were an essential fashion accessory for the suedehead (/wiki/Suedehead) and punk subcultures (/wiki/Punk_subculture) in the United Kingdom. Sometimes Doc Martens were paired with miniskirts or full, Laura Ashley (/wiki/Laura_Ashley) - style dresses. [106] (#cite_note-Fashion-Era.com-106) They were an important feature of the post-punk (/wiki/Post-punk) 1980s Gothic (/wiki/Gothic_fashion) look which featured long, back-combed hair, pale skin, dark eyeshadow, eyeliner, and lipstick, black nail varnish, spiked bracelets and dog-collars, black clothing (often made of gabardine), and leather or velvet trimmed in lace or fishnet material. Corsets were often worn by girls. British bands that inspired the gothic trend include The Cure (/wiki/The_Cure) , Siouxsie and the Banshees (/wiki/Siouxsie_and_the_Banshees) , and The Cult (/wiki/The_Cult) . This trend would return in the 1990s. Parachute pants [ edit ] Main article: Parachute pants (/wiki/Parachute_pants) Parachute pants (/wiki/Parachute_pants) are a style of trousers (/wiki/Trousers) characterized by the use of ripstop nylon (/wiki/Ripstop_nylon) or extremely baggy cuts. In the original tight-fitting, extraneously zippered style of the late 1970s and early 1980s, "parachute" referred to the pants' synthetic nylon material. In the later 1980s, "parachute" may have referred to the extreme bagginess of the pant. These are also referred to as "Hammer" pants, due to rapper MC Hammer (/wiki/MC_Hammer) 's signature style. Hammer pants differ from the parachute pants of the 1970s and early 1980s. They are typically worn as menswear and are often brightly colored. Parachute pants became a fad (/wiki/Fad) in US culture (/wiki/US_culture) in the 1980s as part of an increased mainstream popularity of breakdancing (/wiki/Breakdancing) . [107] (#cite_note-107) Unisex accessories [ edit ] Jewelry Princess Diana (/wiki/Diana,_Princess_of_Wales) , 1985 Earrings (/wiki/Earring) became a mainstream fashion for male teenagers. Jelly or thin metal bracelets (also known as bangles) were very popular in the 1980s, and would be worn in mass quantities on one's wrist. Designer jewelry, such as diamonds (/wiki/Diamond) and pearls (/wiki/Pearl) , were popular among many women, not only for beauty, but as symbols of wealth and power. Watches At the beginning of the decade, digital watches with metal bands were the dominant fashion. They remained popular but lost some of their status in later years. Newer digital watches with built-in calculators and primitive data organizers were strictly for gadget geeks. Adult professionals returned to dial watches by mid-decade. Leather straps returned as an option. By the late 1980s, some watch faces had returned to Roman numerals. In contrast, one ultramodern status symbol was the Movado (/wiki/Movado) museum watch. It featured a sleek design with a single large dot at twelve o'clock. The Tank watch by Cartier (/wiki/Cartier_SA) was a fashion icon that was revived and frequently seen on Cartier advertisements in print. Rolex watches (/wiki/Rolex_watches) were prominently seen on the television show Miami Vice (/wiki/Miami_Vice) . Teen culture preferred vibrant plastic Swatch (/wiki/Swatch) watches. These first appeared in Europe, and reached North America by the mid-1980s. Young people would often wear two or three of these watches on the same arm. [ citation needed ] Eyewear In the first half of the 1980s, glasses (/wiki/Glasses) with large, plastic frames were in fashion for both men and women. Small metal framed glasses made a return to fashion in 1984 and 1985, and in the late 1980s, glasses with tortoise-shell coloring became popular. These were smaller and rounder than the type that was popular earlier in the decade. Throughout the 1980s, Ray-Ban Wayfarers (/wiki/Ray-Ban_Wayfarer) were extremely popular, as worn by Tom Cruise (/wiki/Tom_Cruise) in the 1983 movie Risky Business (/wiki/Risky_Business) . [ citation needed ] Miami Vice (/wiki/Miami_Vice) , in particular Sonny Crockett played by Don Johnson (/wiki/Don_Johnson) , boosted Ray-Ban (/wiki/Ray-Ban) 's popularity by wearing a pair of Ray-Ban Wayfarers (Model L2052, Mock Tortoise), [108] (#cite_note-rays-108) which increased sales of Ray Bans to 720,000 units in 1984. [109] (#cite_note-wayfarer-109) Subcultures of the 1980s [ edit ] English singer Siouxsie Sioux (/wiki/Siouxsie_Sioux) wearing black clothing, back-combed hair, and heavy black eyeliner. She was an inspiration for the gothic fashion (/wiki/Goth_subculture) trend that started in the early 1980s. Robert Smith of the Cure (/wiki/The_Cure) based his gothic look from Siouxsie Sioux (/wiki/Siouxsie_Sioux) 's and being a guitarist in her band. Heavy metal [ edit ] Main article: Heavy metal fashion (/wiki/Heavy_metal_fashion) In the first half of the 1980s, long hair, leather rocker jackets (biker jackets) or cut-off denim jackets, tight worn-out jeans, and white, high trainers (sneakers) and badges with logos of favorite metal bands were popular among metalheads, and musicians of heavy metal and speed metal bands. However, by the mid-1980s the success of the glam metal (/wiki/Glam_metal) scene had influenced the style worn by many mainstream metal fans. In addition to the traditional denim and leather look, mainstream heavy metal bands began to dress in more bright, colourful and theatrical clothing similar, in many ways, to the glam rock (/wiki/Glam_rock) look of the 1970s. This included items such as spandex, platform boots, leg warmers and many different types of often spiked or studded leather accessories. In addition to this the long hair popular with metal fans was often worn teased. Makeup became popular with many metal bands as well often worn onstage for theatricality however many bands also began wearing makeup offstage also. The mainstream glam metal image of the mid- to late 1980s was often criticised by many underground metal fans as being too 'effeminate'. The mainstream glam metal (later called 'hair' metal) style would decline during the later half of the decade but would remain popular until the grunge (/wiki/Grunge) movement in the early 1990s (/wiki/1990s) . In the second half of the 1980s, the original denim and leather clothing style was popular among musicians and fans of more extreme and niche (often underground) metal bands – thrash metal, crossover thrash, early black metal, and early death metal bands. It was popular particularly in the United States, but there were also large regional scenes in Germany, England (/wiki/NWOBHM) , Canada, and Brazil. Although these styles of extreme metal would begin to adopt contrasting images during the ensuing decade. By the late 1980s, acid-washed jeans (/wiki/Jeans) and denim jackets had become popular with both sexes. Acid washing is the process of chemically bleaching the denim, breaking down the fiber of material and forcing the dye to fade, thus leaving undertones of the original dye evidenced by pale white streaks or spots on the material. This became associated with the afformentioned heavy metal (/wiki/Heavy_metal_music) trend (called " hair metal (/wiki/Glam_metal) " in later decades for the large frizzy coiffures worn by both male and female enthusiasts). Severely bleached and ripped jeans, either manufactured purposely or done by hand, become a popular fashion trend, being a main component of glam metal (/wiki/Glam_metal) music acts such as Poison (/wiki/Poison_(American_band)) . The Japanese equivalent of glam metal, known as visual kei (/wiki/Visual_kei) , emerged during the mid- to late 1980s and incorporated punk, goth and new wave influences. [110] (#cite_note-110) Brightly dyed, androgynous hair was common among shock rock (/wiki/Shock_rock) bands like X Japan (/wiki/X_Japan) , together with studded leather borrowed from fetish fashion (/wiki/Fetish_fashion) , traditional Geisha (/wiki/Geisha) or Japanese opera (/wiki/Japanese_opera) inspired makeup, drag (/wiki/Crossdressing) , [111] (#cite_note-111) and stylized 18th century fop rock (/wiki/Fop_rock) costume such as frilly shirts, tall boots and long coats. [112] (#cite_note-112) Punk [ edit ] Main article: Punk fashion (/wiki/Punk_fashion) Throughout the 1980s, the punk style was popular among people aged 18–22. Characterized by multi-colored mohawks, ripped stovepipe jeans, worn band tee-shirts, and denim or leather jackets. This style was popular among people who listened to punk music such as The Sex Pistols (/wiki/The_Sex_Pistols) , and later, (despite the band's self-proclaimed rock'n'roll image) Guns N' Roses (/wiki/Guns_N%27_Roses) . Usually the denim jackets (which became an identity of the group) were adorned by safety pins, buttons, patches, and several other pieces of music or cultural memorabilia. Oftentimes, fans of the punk style would take random bits of fabric and attach them to their other clothes with safety pins. This soon became a popular way of attaching clothing, and it is now known as "pin shirts" with young women. The shirts are, essentially, rectangular pieces of fabric that are pinned on one side with safety pins. In the 1980s, a dressed down look (e.g. buzzed hair, T-shirts, jeans and button up shirts) was also very popular with people involved in punk rock (/wiki/Punk_rock) , more specifically the hardcore punk (/wiki/Hardcore_punk) scene. The Circle Jerks (/wiki/Circle_Jerks) frontman Keith Morris said "Some of those punk rock kids they interviewed were a little over the top, but the thing historically is – the L.A./Hollywood punk scene was basically based on English fashion. But we had nothing to do with that. Black flag and the Circle Jerks were so far from that. We looked like the kid who worked at the gas station or submarine shop." [113] (#cite_note-113) Punk dress was not simply a fashion statement. It epitomized a way of thinking and seeing oneself as an individual cultural producer and consumer. In this way, punk style led many people to ask further questions about their culture and their politics. [114] (#cite_note-114) New Romantic [ edit ] Seinfeld (/wiki/Seinfeld) 's pirate shirt (/wiki/Pirate_shirt) , a New Romantic fashion staple during the 80s. The origins of the New Romantic (/wiki/New_Romanticism) and new wave (/wiki/New_wave_music) fashion and music movement of the mid-1980s are often attributed to the Blitz Kids (/wiki/Blitz_Kids) who frequented the club Blitz in London, especially David Bowie (/wiki/David_Bowie) . Bowie even used the Blitz's host Steve Strange (/wiki/Steve_Strange) in his music video for Ashes to Ashes (/wiki/Ashes_to_Ashes_(David_Bowie_song)) . [115] (#cite_note-theguardian.com-115) The New Romantics and those involved with the punk scene had inspired each other because of the concentration of influential individuals going to the same clubs and having the same circle of friends. [115] (#cite_note-theguardian.com-115) Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren (/wiki/Malcolm_McLaren) were also directly involved in the movement, such as dressing the members of Bow Wow Wow (/wiki/Bow_Wow_Wow) . The band leader and later solo artist, Adam Ant (/wiki/Adam_Ant) , and Westwood had highly influenced each other as well (Adam Ant being one of the leading icons of the New Romantics). [116] (#cite_note-Bromley,_I._2008-116) Westwood's first runway collection, Pirates AW 1981-2 is often cited as a New Romantic collection which was both influenced by and highly influential to the movement. The garments in Pirates had asymmetrical necklines, flowy pirate shirts and breeches. [117] (#cite_note-117) The collection was very well received by critics and buyers. [118] (#cite_note-118) However, the designer's interference in the originally DIY fashion was not taken well by some of the participants, such as Boy George (/wiki/Boy_George) who left Bow Wow Wow to form his own band ( Culture Club (/wiki/Culture_Club) ) and who cited one of the reasons for leaving as the way Vivienne Westwood would not let him dress himself. [116] (#cite_note-Bromley,_I._2008-116) The Blitz Kids described the movement as a retaliation to punk [119] (#cite_note-youtube.com-119) due to it becoming too violent and unsavory crowds such as neo-Nazis and skinheads deciding to jump on that aesthetic bandwagon. [115] (#cite_note-theguardian.com-115) It was also a way to forget their relative poverty following the economic recession and the Winter of Discontent (/wiki/Winter_of_Discontent) . [119] (#cite_note-youtube.com-119) Features of New Romantic clothing varied from individual to individual, although these generally highlighted the implied individualism, creativity and self-expression of the movement, besides its continued adherence to the DIY ethic (/wiki/DIY_ethic) of punk. [115] (#cite_note-theguardian.com-115) It was inspired by different cultures and time periods, films, film noir, and theatricality. Men often wore dramatic cosmetics and androgynous clothing, including ruffled poet shirts (/wiki/Poet_shirt) , red or blue hussar jackets (/wiki/Hussar_jacket) with gold braid, silk sashes (/wiki/Sash) , tight pants (/wiki/Tight_pants) , shiny rayon (/wiki/Rayon) waistcoats (/wiki/Waistcoat) , and tailcoats (/wiki/Tailcoat) based on those worn during the Regency era (/wiki/Regency_era) . Women, too, were very theatrical in terms of makeup and style, and often favoured big hair (/wiki/Big_hair) , fishnet (/wiki/Fishnet) gloves, corsets (/wiki/Corset) , crushed velvet, and elements of Middle Eastern and gypsy (/wiki/Gypsy) clothing. [116] (#cite_note-Bromley,_I._2008-116) Rockabilly [ edit ] Main article: Neo-Rockabilly (/wiki/Neo-Rockabilly) Garage rock (/wiki/Garage_rock) and psychobilly (/wiki/Psychobilly) band the U-Men (/wiki/The_U-Men) wearing Teddy Boy outfits, early to mid -1980s. In the early 1980s, the Teddy Boy (/wiki/Teddy_Boy) look was popular in the UK among fans of groups like the Stray Cats (/wiki/Stray_Cats) , Crazy Cavan (/wiki/Crazy_Cavan) , Levi and the Rockats (/wiki/Levi_and_the_Rockats) , or Shakin Stevens (/wiki/Shakin_Stevens) . Common items of clothing included drape jackets (/wiki/Drape_jacket) (generally in darker shades than those of the 1970s), drainpipe trousers (/wiki/Drainpipe_trousers) , brothel creepers (/wiki/Brothel_creeper) , bolo ties (/wiki/Bolo_tie) , white T-shirts, baseball jackets (/wiki/Baseball_jacket) , hawaiian shirts (/wiki/Hawaiian_shirt) , and black leather jackets (/wiki/Leather_jacket) like the Schott Perfecto (/wiki/Schott_Perfecto) . Common hairstyles included the quiff (/wiki/Quiff) , pompadour (/wiki/Pompadour_(hairstyle)) , flat top (/wiki/Flattop) , and ducktail (/wiki/Ducktail) . The French rockabilly scene of the early to mid-1980s was closely linked with the street punk (/wiki/Street_punk) subculture, had a large black and Arab following, and was involved with antifascist (/wiki/Antifascist) squaddism (/wiki/Squaddism) . [120] (#cite_note-120) The Black Dragons (/wiki/Black_Dragons_(France)) identified themselves with the leather jacket (/wiki/Leather_jacket) wearing greaser (/wiki/Greaser_(subculture)) antiheroes, rebels and outcasts, and often fought the neonazi (/wiki/Neonazi) skinheads (/wiki/Skinheads) . [121] (#cite_note-121) Rude boys and skinheads [ edit ] British skinheads in 1981 Following on from the mod revival (/wiki/Mod_revival) of the late 70s, the UK witnessed a revival of rude boy (/wiki/Rude_boy) and skinhead (/wiki/Skinhead) fashion due to the popularity of ska punk (/wiki/Ska_punk) , Oi! (/wiki/Oi!) punk rock (/wiki/Punk_rock) , rocksteady (/wiki/Rocksteady) , and two tone music (/wiki/Two_tone_music) during the winter of discontent (/wiki/Winter_of_discontent) . In the early 80s, slim fitting mohair (/wiki/Mohair) , tonic and houndstooth (/wiki/Houndstooth) suits [122] (#cite_note-122) were popular, together with basket weave shoes, polo shirts (/wiki/Polo_shirt) , sta-prest (/wiki/Sta-prest) trousers, Doc Martens (/wiki/Doc_Martens) , braces, Harrington jackets (/wiki/Harrington_jacket) and pork pie hats (/wiki/Pork_pie_hat) popularized by bands like the Specials (/wiki/The_Specials) , UB40 (/wiki/UB40) , the Bosstones (/wiki/The_Bosstones) , and Madness (/wiki/Madness_(band)) . [123] (#cite_note-123) In response to the racism of white power skinheads (/wiki/White_power_skinhead) , 1980s rude boys wore checkerboard (/wiki/Checkerboard) motifs to signify that both black and white people were welcome. Crew cuts (/wiki/Crew_cut) and buzzcuts (/wiki/Buzzcut) were worn by both sexes, [124] (#cite_note-124) and girls often incorporated hair bangs (/wiki/Hair_bang) in a partially shaven style known as a Chelsea mohawk (/wiki/Chelsea_mohawk) . [125] (#cite_note-125) In Brighton, the Skins of the 1980s fought the outlaw bikers (/wiki/Outlaw_biker) and rockabilly guys, as the Mods and Rockers (/wiki/Mods_and_Rockers) had previously done in the 60s. Casuals [ edit ] The football casual (/wiki/Football_casual) subculture first appeared in the UK around 1983, when many ex-skinheads began dressing in designer clothing (/wiki/Designer_clothing) and sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) to blend into the crowd and avoid police attention at football (/wiki/Association_football) games. Popular clothing for English and Scottish casuals included Burberry (/wiki/Burberry) coats, Stone Island (/wiki/Stone_Island) , Lacoste (/wiki/Lacoste) , Ben Sherman (/wiki/Ben_Sherman) and Fred Perry (/wiki/Fred_Perry) polo shirts, tracksuits (/wiki/Tracksuit) , [126] (#cite_note-126) bomber jackets (/wiki/Bomber_jacket) , Adidas (/wiki/Adidas) , Nike (/wiki/Nike,_Inc.) , or Reebok (/wiki/Reebok) sneakers (/wiki/Sneakers) , [127] (#cite_note-127) Fila (/wiki/Fila_(company)) or Ellesse (/wiki/Ellesse) jackets, flat caps (/wiki/Flat_cap) , baseball caps (/wiki/Baseball_cap) , soccer shirts (/wiki/Soccer_shirt) , and scarfs (/wiki/Scarf) or bobble hats (/wiki/Bobble_hat) in their club's colours. [128] (#cite_note-128) Although shaved heads (/wiki/Shaved_head) [129] (#cite_note-129) [ self-published source? ] remained the most common haircut, some fans also wore undercuts (/wiki/Undercut_(hairstyle)) , Caesar cuts (/wiki/Caesar_cut) , mod haircuts (/wiki/Mod_haircut) , and short mullet haircuts (/wiki/Mullet_haircut) . During the late 80s, Casuals mostly listened to acid house (/wiki/Acid_house) , new wave music (/wiki/New_wave_music) , and later indie rock (/wiki/Indie_rock) [130] (#cite_note-130) or Madchester (/wiki/Madchester) [131] (#cite_note-131) but a hip-hop influenced offshoot of the subculture, known as chavs (/wiki/Chav) , appeared during the late 1990s and early 2000s. [132] (#cite_note-132) [133] (#cite_note-133) Skaters [ edit ] West German skate punks (/wiki/Skate_punk) of the late 80s. In the Soviet Union (/wiki/Soviet_Union) , [134] (#cite_note-134) Australia, East Germany (/wiki/East_Germany) , [135] (#cite_note-135) and America, the skater subculture (/wiki/Skater_subculture) reached the height of popularity in the mid-'80s. Unlike the hippie (/wiki/Hippie) and surfer (/wiki/Surfer) influenced skaters of the 70s, the skaters of the 80s overwhelmingly preferred sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) and punk fashion (/wiki/Punk_fashion) , especially baseball caps (/wiki/Baseball_cap) , red waffle plaid (/wiki/Waffle_plaid) shirts, sleeveless T-shirts, baggy pants (/wiki/Baggy_pants) or Jams (/wiki/Jams_(clothing_line)) [136] (#cite_note-136) shorts resembling pajamas (/wiki/Pajamas) , [137] (#cite_note-137) checkered wristbands, striped tube socks (/wiki/Tube_sock) , and basketball shoes like Converse All Stars (/wiki/Converse_All_Stars) and Vans (/wiki/Vans) . Brightly colored T-shirts became fashionable by the end of the decade, often featuring psychedelic (/wiki/Psychedelia) eyes, skulls, Ed Roth (/wiki/Ed_Roth) inspired cartoon characters, palm trees, iron crosses (/wiki/Iron_cross) , or the logos of skateboard brands like Stüssy (/wiki/St%C3%BCssy) , [138] (#cite_note-138) Tony Hawk (/wiki/Tony_Hawk) , Mooks (/wiki/Mooks_clothing_company) or Santa Cruz (/wiki/NHS,_Inc.) . [139] (#cite_note-139) The longer surfer hair (/wiki/Surfer_hair) was replaced with edgy hardcore punk (/wiki/Hardcore_punk) and street punk (/wiki/Street_punk) inspired styles like the bowl cut (/wiki/Bowl_cut) or Hitler Youth haircut (/wiki/Hitler_Youth_haircut) . Rap and hip hop [ edit ] Main article: Hip hop fashion (/wiki/Hip_hop_fashion) Air Jordan 1 Bred Hi top Adidas sneakers Sports shoes (/wiki/Sneakers) had been worn as casual wear (/wiki/Casual_wear) before, but for the first time they became a high-priced fashion item. Converse (/wiki/Converse_(shoe_company)) shoes were popular in the first half of the 1980s. In 1984, Nike introduced the first ever Air Jordan (/wiki/Air_Jordan) sneaker, the Air Jordan 1 (named for basketball player Michael Jordan (/wiki/Michael_Jordan) ). Although most believe this shoe was banned by the NBA (/wiki/NBA) due to the sneaker being too flashy and distracting, others believe it was actually, the predecessor, the Nike Air Ship that was under scrutiny. [140] (#cite_note-140) Nike used this controversy between Air Jordan and the NBA to market the sneaker. The Air Jordan 1 was released in the royal blue color way to the public in 1985 and was an immediate success, still retaining its value in the fashion world today. [141] (#cite_note-141) Soon, other manufacturers introduced premium athletic shoes. Adidas (/wiki/Adidas) sneakers were also a successful brand of the decade, becoming popular among teenage boys and young men. [ citation needed ] The growth of pop-culture and hip-hop influence allowed group Run-D.M.C. (/wiki/Run-DMC) to make the Adidas Superstar (/wiki/Adidas_Superstar) (commonly known as the shell toe) one of the most sought-after shoes of the 1980s. Following their single "My Adidas", Adidas reportedly gave them $1 million endorsement deal. [142] (#cite_note-142) Nike had a similar share of the market, with the Air Max (/wiki/Nike_Air_Max) and similar shoes such as the Air Force One (/wiki/Air_Force_(shoe)) which was released in 1982. High-tops (/wiki/High-tops) , especially of white or black leather, became popular. Other sportswear brands released popular shoes - Reebok (/wiki/Reebok) had the Reebok Pump (/wiki/Reebok_Pump) , Converse (/wiki/Converse_(shoe_company)) released the Cons and New Balance (/wiki/New_Balance) had the Worthy 790. In the early 1980s, long and white athletic socks, often calf-high or knee-high, were worn with sneakers. As the decade progressed, socks trended shorter, eventually topping out just above the height of the shoe. [ citation needed ] Run-D.M.C. and other hip-hop groups also influenced the apparel industry. Wearing track suits (/wiki/Tracksuit) and large chains necklaces, they popularised sportswear brands such as Fila (/wiki/Fila_(company)) , Puma (/wiki/Puma_(brand)) , Reebok, Nike, Avia (/wiki/Avia_(shoes)) and Adidas. [143] (#cite_note-Highsnobiety-143) Individuals in the culture also frequently wore bucket hats (/wiki/Bucket_hat) , oversized jackets and t-shirts, and high contrast colors. [144] (#cite_note-144) Fashion in hip-hop was a way to surpass the poverty that surrounded the community. [145] (#cite_note-145) According to Chandler and Chandler-Smith (2008), rap and hip-hop were not one specific style, but rather a mix between high-end luxury fashion and what was on the street. [146] (#cite_note-146) Harlem designer and shop-owner Dapper Dan (/wiki/Dapper_Dan_(designer)) embodied this concept by redesigning luxury products and making them available to those who would not typically associate themselves with it. Dapper Dan was most famous for deconstructing a Louis Vuitton (/wiki/Louis_Vuitton) garment and turning it into his signature jacket. He reconstructed garments for many music icons and celebrities in the 1980s before getting shut down by lawyers in the early 1990s. [147] (#cite_note-147) This interest in luxury apparel expanded past Dapper Dan - American fashion brands Tommy Hilfiger (/wiki/Tommy_Hilfiger_(company)) , Ralph Lauren (/wiki/Ralph_Lauren_Corporation) , and Nautica (/wiki/Nautica_(clothing_company)) were expanding rapidly and embraced by hip-hop culture as an indicator of status. [143] (#cite_note-Highsnobiety-143) Ensembles featuring the Pan-African colors (/wiki/Pan-African_colours) - green, yellow and red, and red, black and green - became popular among African Americans (/wiki/African_American) , as did kente cloth (/wiki/Kente_cloth) . In the urban hip-hop communities, sneakers were usually worn unlaced and with a large amount of gold jewelry (/wiki/Jewelry) , as well as head wraps. [ citation needed ] Preppy [ edit ] Young Iranian men wearing casual preppy outfits in 1981 Wealthy teenagers, especially in the United States, wore a style inspired by 1950s (/wiki/1950s_subcultures) Ivy League fashion (/wiki/Ivy_League_(clothes)) that came to be known as " preppy (/wiki/Preppy) ". Preppy fashions are associated with classic and conservative style of dressing and clothing brands such as high waisted ankle length jeans and pants plain or pleated, Izod Lacoste (/wiki/Izod_Lacoste) , Brooks Brothers (/wiki/Brooks_Brothers) , and Polo Ralph Lauren (/wiki/Polo_Ralph_Lauren) . [148] (#cite_note-148) An example of preppy attire would be a button-down Oxford cloth shirt, Ascot tie (/wiki/Ascot_tie) , cuffed khakis, and tasseled loafers, Keds (/wiki/Keds) , Sperry or Eastland Boat shoes (/wiki/Boat_shoes) , white Sperry sneakers, or ballet flats (/wiki/Ballet_flat) . Throughout the 1980s and 1990s, preppy fashions featured a lot of pastels, turtleneck sweaters (/wiki/Turtleneck_sweater) for girls, knee high socks sometimes turned down or folded over at the top with above the knee length skirts and dresses and polo shirts (/wiki/Polo_shirt) with designer logos. Other outfits considered "preppy" included cable knit (/wiki/Cable_knit) cardigans or argyle pattern (/wiki/Argyle_pattern) sweaters tied loosely around the shoulders, [149] (#cite_note-149) dress shorts with knee socks, dressed up leggings (/wiki/Leggings) outfits from the mid-1980s on which consisted of leggings (/wiki/Leggings) with an oversized v-neck sweater over a turtleneck, slouch socks (/wiki/Slouch_socks) , Keds (shoes) (/wiki/Keds_(shoes)) or Sperrys (/wiki/Sperry_Top-Sider) , and bangs (/wiki/Bangs_(hair)) with a headband (/wiki/Headband) band or ponytail (/wiki/Ponytail) and scrunchie (/wiki/Scrunchie) . The European equivalent, known as Sloane Rangers (/wiki/Sloane_Ranger) , dressed similarly but frequently incorporated tweed cloth (/wiki/Tweed_cloth) British country clothing (/wiki/British_country_clothing) , burberry (/wiki/Burberry) mackintoshes (/wiki/Mackintosh) , mustard (/wiki/Mustard_(color)) corduroy (/wiki/Corduroy) pants, rain boots (/wiki/Rain_boots) , padded hairbands, and ancestral jewellery such as pearl necklaces. [150] (#cite_note-150) Hairstyles [ edit ] Main article: Hairstyles in the 1980s (/wiki/Hairstyles_in_the_1980s) Tom Bailey (/wiki/Tom_Bailey_(musician)) of the Thompson Twins (/wiki/Thompson_Twins) in 1986. Women's hairstyles [ edit ] Although straight hair was the norm at the beginning of the decade, as many late-1970s styles were still relevant, the perm had come into fashion by 1980. Big and eccentric hair styles (/wiki/Big_hair) were popularized by film and music stars, in particular among teenagers but also adults. These hairstyles became iconic during the mid-1980s and include big bangs (/wiki/Bangs_(hair)) worn by girls from upper elementary, middle school, high school, college and adult women. There was generally an excessive amount of mousse (/wiki/Hair_mousse) used in styling an individual's hair, which resulted in the popular, shiny look and greater volume. Some mousse even contained glitter. Beginning in the late 80s, high ponytails (/wiki/Ponytail) , side ponytails (/wiki/Ponytail) , and high side ponytails (/wiki/Ponytail) with a scrunchie (/wiki/Scrunchie) or headband (/wiki/Headband) became common among girls from upper elementary, middle school, high school, college and adult women. Men's hairstyles [ edit ] By 1983, short hair had made a comeback for men, in reaction to the shag (/wiki/Shag_(hairstyle)) and mod haircuts (/wiki/Mod_haircut) of the mid- to late '70s. The sideburns of the 1960s and 1970s saw a massive decline in fashion, and many guys wore regular haircuts (/wiki/Regular_haircut) and quiffs (/wiki/Quiff) . Beards (/wiki/Beards) went out of style due to their association with hippies (/wiki/Hippie) , but moustaches (/wiki/Moustache) remained common among blue collar men. From the mid-1980s until the early 1990s, mullets (/wiki/Mullet_haircut) were popular in suburban and rural areas among working-class men. This contrasted with a conservative look preferred by business professionals, with neatly groomed short hair for men and sIeek, straight hair for women. Some men also wore bangs in styles such as regular frontal or side swept bangs (/wiki/Bangs_(hair)) but they were not as big as women or girls bangs (/wiki/Bangs_(hair)) . Hairsprays such as Aqua Net (/wiki/Aqua_Net) were also used in excess by fans of glam metal bands such as Poison (/wiki/Poison_(American_band)) . During the late 80s, trends in men's facial hair included designer stubble (/wiki/Designer_stubble) . Teenagers and young men with medium length hair often parted it down the middle or sides. Image gallery [ edit ] Women in aerobics (/wiki/Aerobics) leggings (/wiki/Leggings) , 1985. Reebok Freestyle (/wiki/Reebok_Freestyle) sneakers advertisement, 1985. Girl in 1980. A French punk, 1981. American actress Suzanne Somers (/wiki/Suzanne_Somers) in 1981. Mexican (/wiki/Mexico) women, Mérida, Yucatán (/wiki/M%C3%A9rida,_Yucat%C3%A1n) , Mexico (/wiki/Mexico) in 1981. In 1983, pedal-pushers (/wiki/Pedal-pushers) , in denim (/wiki/Denim) . Princess Diana (/wiki/Diana,_Princess_of_Wales) in 1985 wearing a dress with shoulder pads. Young woman in Europe wearing a jacket with shoulder pads (/wiki/Shoulder_pads_(fashion)) , 1985. Guillermo Vilas (/wiki/Guillermo_Vilas) , Moria Casán (/wiki/Moria_Cas%C3%A1n) and Gabriela Sabatini (/wiki/Gabriela_Sabatini) in 1985. Young Englishman wearing a pirate shirt (/wiki/Poet_shirt) Scottish singer Annie Lennox (/wiki/Annie_Lennox) of Eurythmics (/wiki/Eurythmics) in 1986. Soda Stereo (/wiki/Soda_Stereo) in Buenos Aires (/wiki/Buenos_Aires) in 1986. Irish (/wiki/Irish_people) girls in 1986. Group of friends in Italy (/wiki/Italy) in 1987. Simon Le Bon (/wiki/Simon_Le_Bon) of Duran Duran (/wiki/Duran_Duran) in 1987. Swedish pop singer Marie Fredriksson (/wiki/Marie_Fredriksson) in 1987. Photo taken at a Los Angeles (/wiki/Los_Angeles) club, 1987. Michael J. Fox (/wiki/Michael_J._Fox) and Tracy Pollan (/wiki/Tracy_Pollan) in 1988. Drew Barrymore (/wiki/Drew_Barrymore) and Corey Feldman (/wiki/Corey_Feldman) in 1989. See also [ edit ] 1980s portal (/wiki/Portal:1980s) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-BrowneBrowne2001_1-0) Browne, Ray B.; Browne, Pat (15 June 2001). The Guide to United States Popular Culture . Popular Press. pp. 357–. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-87972-821-2 . Retrieved 11 August 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Lauraine Leblanc. Pretty in Punk: Girls' Gender Resistance in a Boys' Subculture . Rutgers University Press, 1999. P. 52 ^ (#cite_ref-3) Mendes V. de La Hay A. 20th Century Fashion. London: Thames and Hudson, 1999. ^ (#cite_ref-4) Osgerby B. Fashion and Subculture: A History of Style. Oxford: Berg Publishers, 2010. ^ (#cite_ref-5) Green, Penelope (23 February 2024). "Claude Montana, Fashion Designer Whose Look Defined the '80s, Dies at 76" (https://www.nytimes.com/2024/02/23/fashion/claude-montana-dead.html) . New York Times . Retrieved 24 February 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) Givhan, Robin (February 28, 2019). "Big '80s shoulders are back. Is it because they need to hold the weight of the world?" (https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/2019/02/28/big-s-shoulders-are-back-is-it-because-they-need-hold-weight-world/) . Washington Post . Retrieved February 24, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-Brubaker2003_7-0) Brubaker, Ken (9 October 2003). Monster Trucks . MotorBooks International. p. 64. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-7603-1544-6 . Retrieved 10 August 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-WeltersCunningham2005_8-0) Welters, Linda; Cunningham, Patricia A. (20 May 2005). Twentieth-Century American Fashion . Berg. pp. 223, 337. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-84520-073-2 . Retrieved 10 August 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-BatemanBenyahia2012_9-0) Bateman, Antony; Benyahia, Sarah Casey Casey; Mortimer, Claire (23 May 2012). AS Media Studies: The Essential Introduction for WJEC . Routledge. p. 111. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-415-61334-7 . Retrieved 10 August 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-SteinbergKehler2010_10-0) Steinberg, Shirley R.; Kehler, Michael; Cornish, Lindsay (17 June 2010). Boy Culture: An Encyclopedia . ABC-CLIO. p. 95. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-313-35080-1 . Retrieved 10 August 2012 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h i j k l m n "Fashion in the 1980s" (http://www.retrowaste.com/1980s/fashion-in-the-1980s/) . Retrieved 24 April 2014 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Designer Jeans" (http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Modern-World-1980-2003/Designer-Jeans.html) . Retrieved 7 July 2014 . ^ Jump up to: a b c "VH1 – I Love The 80s – 1980" (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YhwrBPqxd0E) . YouTube (/wiki/YouTube) . Retrieved 9 July 2014 . [ dead YouTube link ] ^ (#cite_ref-14) Hyde, Nina S. (/wiki/Nina_Hyde) (1981-03-24). "Fashion: After Jeans...What?" (https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1981/03/24/fashion-after-jeans-what/f25a2f01-3dda-4c74-8c1f-e490152a03b4/) . The Washington Post . Retrieved 2022-03-06 . It doesn't take a social historian to observe that fewer people are wearing jeans than, say, a few years ago. There are fewer jeans worn to the Kennedy Center, fewer in Georgetown on Saturday afternoon, fewer jeans in high schools. Stores have reported a decline in sales, particularly the designer-label jeans. ^ (#cite_ref-15) Elkins, Ann. "Fashion". Encyclopedia Year Book 1983: Events of 1982 . Grolier Incorporated. p. 224. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-7172-0814-1 . Attempts to revive the dying jeans business included the promotion of black as the 'new' jeans color and the introduction of stone-washed and overdyed jeans. ^ (#cite_ref-16) Elkins, Ann M. "Fashion". The Americana Annual 1981: An Encyclopedia of the Events of 1980 . Grolier Incorporated. p. 230. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-7172-0212-7 . ...[In] 1980, the most celebrated trend was toward pants. In every shape, length, and width, pants eclipsed skirts in major...collections. ^ (#cite_ref-17) Duka, John (1982-01-03). "Designing an Empire" (https://www.nytimes.com/1982/01/03/magazine/designing-an-empire.html) . The New York Times : 20 . Retrieved 2021-12-31 . [Perry Ellis's] cropped pants...have been copied by many of the smart manufacturers... ^ (#cite_ref-18) Hyde, Nina S. (/wiki/Nina_Hyde) (1981-09-24). "Fashion: Growing Into Knickers" (https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1981/09/24/fashion-growing-into-knickers/7915078d-ef5f-4a9a-a3b3-e428233ace37/) . The Washington Post . Retrieved 2022-03-06 . Knickers are hardly a new idea. But not since the Twenties and Thirties, when young boys wore corduroy knickerbockers, have they been so popular. ^ (#cite_ref-19) Sweetinburgh, Thelma (1982). "Fashion and Dress". 1982 Britannica Book of the Year: Events of 1981 . Encyclopaedia Britannica, Inc. p. 376. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-85229-394-1 . In the early fall, trousers, jeans, bermudas, and divided skirts were all swept aside in favour of knickers. ^ (#cite_ref-20) Alexander, Ron (1980-06-01). " (https://www.nytimes.com/1980/06/01/archives/jelly-shoes-in-brash-colors.html) 'Ugly Jelly Shoes' In Brash Colors" (https://www.nytimes.com/1980/06/01/archives/jelly-shoes-in-brash-colors.html) . The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . ( complete text (https://news.google.com/newspapers?id=LUAdAAAAIBAJ&sjid=J6cEAAAAIBAJ&pg=2572,1416133) [ permanent dead link ] ) ^ (#cite_ref-SexBracelets_21-0) "Sex Bracelets" (http://www.snopes.com/risque/school/bracelet.asp) . 14 November 2003 . Retrieved 9 June 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-22) "Sweatshirts" (http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Modern-World-1980-2003/Sweatshirts.html) . Retrieved 9 July 2014 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Leg Warmers" (http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Modern-World-1980-2003/Leg-Warmers.html) . Retrieved 7 July 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-24) Roland, James. "The History of the Basketball Shoe | LIVESTRONG.COM" (http://www.livestrong.com/article/348458-the-history-of-the-basketball-shoe/) . Retrieved 2015-05-03 . ^ (#cite_ref-25) "Trainer Shoes" (http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Modern-World-1980-2003/Trainer-Shoes.html) . Retrieved 3 September 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-26) Hyde, Nina S. (/wiki/Nina_Hyde) (1978-07-27). "YSL Reintroduces the Grand-Entrance Era" (https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1978/07/27/ysl-reintroduces-the-grand-entrance-era/92fadb1d-bbde-4a5d-a83f-40effcbd30a4/) . The Washington Post . Retrieved 2022-04-04 . Did you love the way your mother looked in the 1940s? If you did, you are in luck - because Yves Saint Laurent, clearly the strongest influence out of Paris, has designed a collection of haute glamour clothes for fall with roots in the Joan Crawford, grand-entrance era. ^ (#cite_ref-27) "Peplums and Picasso" (https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1979/07/26/peplums-and-picasso/994fb177-0826-490d-bad8-9807d792f076/) . The Washington Post . 1979-07-26 . Retrieved 2022-03-03 . It is back to the history books if you care to comprehend what the Paris fashion designers are up to...[T]here is a heavy dose of the 1940s in the fall designs, with broad-shouldered suits with fitted bodices, tightly nipped waistlines, and peplums, plus a heavy injection of the early 1900s... ^ (#cite_ref-28) Halasz, Robert (ed.). "Fashion". The Illustrated Columbia Encyclopedia Year Book 1979: Events of 1978 . Chicago, Illinois, USA: Standard Educational Corporation. p. 315. Dressy was in and gypsies, peasants, and hippies were definitely out. ^ (#cite_ref-29) Hyde, Nina (/wiki/Nina_Hyde) (1983-03-25). "Comfortable Classiness" (https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1983/03/25/comfortable-classiness/80536bd8-27da-4f8a-84c2-1a3645038eea/) . The Washington Post . Retrieved 2022-06-22 . Last season [designers] took a decidedly different route: very sophisticated, very dressy, 'grown-up' styles reminiscent of the ones mothers and grandmothers of the fashion crowd had worn in the '30s, '40s and '50s. Peplums, skinny tight skirts, stiletto heels, hats and gloves. A lot of the designers showed that kind of fashion and a lot of stores put it on the racks. ^ (#cite_ref-30) Hyde, Nina (/wiki/Nina_Hyde) (1983-10-22). "Refining the Look" (https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1983/10/22/refining-the-look/5262e3e1-7b68-4852-bcdb-218da47f86b0/) . The Washington Post . Retrieved 2022-06-22 . 'People are dressing up again and wearing dresses rather than jeans or sportswear,' says...[dressmaker] Stanley Love, the head of Joseph Love Inc. ^ (#cite_ref-31) Duka, John (28 December 1982). "Notes on Fashion" (https://www.nytimes.com/1982/12/28/style/notes-on-fashion.html) . The New York Times : B10 . Retrieved 4 April 2022 . The Reagan influence wafted through the major cities like heavy perfume. Where the young had once been the apple of the fashion eye, the elders took over, wearing expensive suits and ball gowns. And youth followed the example. In its way, nothing said more about fashion than all those 15-year-olds in wing collars and black ties swimming like well-bred minnows in the wake of stately taffeta. ^ (#cite_ref-32) Hyde, Nina (/wiki/Nina_Hyde) (1983-10-22). "Refining the Look" (https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1983/10/22/refining-the-look/5262e3e1-7b68-4852-bcdb-218da47f86b0/) . The Washington Post . Retrieved 2022-06-22 . [A] more refined, ladylike look is the mood of many of the clothes...In the spirit of being very dignified, designers have revived the jacket and dress ensemble. ^ (#cite_ref-33) Sweetinburgh, Thelma (1984). "Fashion and Dress". 1984 Britannica Book of the Year: Events of 1983 . Encyclopaedia Britannica, Inc. p. 376. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-85229-417-4 . Oldtime Hollywood glamour provided the inspiration for another fashion trend, a body-clinging form with hips draped, wrapped, and bowed. ^ (#cite_ref-34) Morris, Bernadine (1982-10-22). "Kenzo's Fluid Designs End Paris Showings" (https://www.nytimes.com/1982/10/22/style/kenzo-s-fluid-designs-end-paris-showings.html) . The New York Times : B8 . Retrieved 2022-06-22 . Designers...have a predilection for hats...More surprising was the appearance of...rather formal leather gloves... ^ (#cite_ref-35) Hyde, Nina (/wiki/Nina_Hyde) (1983-10-22). "Refining the Look" (https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1983/10/22/refining-the-look/5262e3e1-7b68-4852-bcdb-218da47f86b0/) . The Washington Post . Retrieved 2022-06-22 . ...[M]any of the clothes this season...came complete with hat and gloves... ^ (#cite_ref-36) Elkins, Ann. "Fashion". Encyclopedia Year Book 1983: Events of 1982 . Grolier Incorporated. p. 225. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-7172-0814-1 . ...[G]loves were the number one design accent and the most colorful....[G]auntlets in red, yellow, blue, or green set off...sedately colored fashions...[T]he finishing touch was the hat. ^ (#cite_ref-37) Donovan, Carrie (1982-04-18). "The Spirit of New York" (https://www.nytimes.com/1982/04/18/magazine/fashion-the-spirit-of-new-york.html) . The New York Times : 80 . Retrieved 2022-04-04 . ...[T]his new spirit harks back to the glamour and dressed-up correctness of the 1950s, but now tuned to the women of the 1980s. It makes accessories such as hats, high-heeled pumps, perhaps even gloves and red lipstick, desirable once more. ^ (#cite_ref-38) Sweetinburgh, Thelma (1984). "Fashion and Dress". 1984 Britannica Book of the Year: Events of 1983 . Encyclopaedia Britannica, Inc. p. 376. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-85229-417-4 . The daytime scene became very somber, with all black...predominating. There was glossy black leather for miniskirts...the all-black look for evening...above-the-elbow black gloves....[B]asically it was black – black lace, black silk, black jet for earrings, black stockings, and black shoes. ^ (#cite_ref-39) Howell, Georgina (1991). "The Aggressive Eighties: 1980-1991". In Vogue: 75 Years of Style . London, England: Random Century Ltd. p. 229. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-7126-4791-0 . By the mid eighties...black was the only fashionable colour. Women in black sweaters, tight black pants and flat black ballet slippers climbed into small black cars and drove home to minimal black and chrome apartments. They...put on black dresses to dance to black music in black clubs... ^ (#cite_ref-40) Hyde, Nina S. (/wiki/Nina_Hyde) (1978-07-27). "YSL Reintroduces the Grand-Entrance Era" (https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1978/07/27/ysl-reintroduces-the-grand-entrance-era/92fadb1d-bbde-4a5d-a83f-40effcbd30a4/) . The Washington Post . Retrieved 2022-04-04 . ...[B]lack is a major theme throughout all the Paris collections... ^ (#cite_ref-41) Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1976-1986". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion . London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 344. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-670-80172-0 . ...[A]mongst British youth...by the late seventies...there was a dramatic shift...to sinister, black rubber dresses, oversized crosses,...black leather corsetry, death-symbolist accessories and white, caked make-up....Gradually, in response, black dominated the international collections. ^ (#cite_ref-42) Hyde, Nina (/wiki/Nina_Hyde) (1986-05-18). "Fashion Notes: An Attack of Vintage Black" (https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1986/05/18/fashion-notes/b3e8baae-5e00-4e9b-b30b-f62d8401cc76/) . The Washington Post . Retrieved 2022-04-04 . ...'This is the way I dress all the time,' said Lisa Lin, who was wearing black velvet and lace to the Siouxsie and the Banshees concert...Most of the clothes were black...Michelle Hammond...dressed extravagantly in belted black lace and pleated chiffon skirt. 'I dress this way all the time.'...Erica Hoffman...was wearing spider-web gloves with her black outfit...[T]he predominant scheme was black – black clothes, black shoes, black hair. ^ (#cite_ref-43) Sweetinburgh, Thelma (1990). "Fashion and Dress". Britannica Book of the Year 1990: Events of 1989 . Encyclopaedia Britannica, Inc. p. 217. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-85229-522-7 . Despite...colourful designer collections..., the street look in the springtime was black from head to toe. ^ (#cite_ref-44) "Footwear, 1980–2003" (http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Modern-World-1980-2003/Footwear-1980-2003.html) . Retrieved 3 September 2014 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Spandex" (http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Modern-World-1980-2003/Spandex.html) . Retrieved 9 July 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-46) Howell, Georgina (1991). "The Aggressive Eighties: 1980-1991". In Vogue: 75 Years of Style . London, England: Random Century Ltd. p. 229. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-7126-4791-0 . By the mid eighties...black was the only fashionable colour. Women in black sweaters, tight black pants and flat black ballet slippers climbed into small black cars and drove home to minimal black and chrome apartments. They...put on black dresses to dance to black music in black clubs... ^ (#cite_ref-47) Sweetinburgh, Thelma (1990). "Fashion and Dress". Britannica Book of the Year 1990: Events of 1989 . Encyclopaedia Britannica, Inc. p. 217. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-85229-522-7 . Despite...colourful designer collections..., the street look in the springtime was black from head to toe. ^ (#cite_ref-48) Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1976-1986". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion . London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 343. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-670-80172-0 . The second main influence on French fashion was the imagination and anarchic style of London youth. Street style was synthesized into high fashion... ^ (#cite_ref-49) Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1976-1986". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion . London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 344. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-670-80172-0 . Helen Robinson of PX, Stephen Jones, Steve Linard,...Demob, Melissa Caplan, and...Body Map all emerged as innovative designers between 1978 and 1983. Most...were involved in the pop-music scene, designing clothes for such stars as Steve Strange of Visage,...Culture Club, Adam Ant, Hayzi Fantayzee and Annie Lennox of the Eurythmics. ^ (#cite_ref-50) Duka, John (1984-03-24). "British Fashion: How It Shifted Into High Gear" (https://www.nytimes.com/1984/03/24/style/british-fashion-how-it-shifted-into-high-gear.html) . The New York Times : 30 . Retrieved 2022-06-22 . At the Body Map booth at Olympia, Stevie Stewart, who designs the collection with David Holah, was checking off the names of clients, including Gimbel's, Charivari, Bergdorf, Bendel's, in her date book. ^ (#cite_ref-51) Duka, John (1984-03-24). "British Fashion: How It Shifted Into High Gear" (https://www.nytimes.com/1984/03/24/style/british-fashion-how-it-shifted-into-high-gear.html) . The New York Times : 30 . Retrieved 2022-06-22 . ...[T]he international retail fashion world seems to have caught on to young British fashion and has accepted the idiosyncracies of the British. ^ (#cite_ref-52) Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1976-1986". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion . London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 345. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-670-80172-0 . ...Gaultier fused the showmanship of a couture training...with the design anarchy borrowed from London's streets, which he visited regularly....Gaultier...invited [UK milliner Stephen] Jones to design...hats. ^ (#cite_ref-53) Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1976-1986". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion . London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 344. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-670-80172-0 . ...[T]heir sub-culture styles quickly became mainstream fashion, as uninspired official designers looked to these young innovators for inspiration. ^ (#cite_ref-54) Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1984". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion . London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 388. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-670-80172-0 . London sub-culture cornered the international market....International buyers rushed to London to place their orders. ^ (#cite_ref-55) Duka, John (1983-10-25). "Notes on Fashion" (https://www.nytimes.com/1983/10/25/style/notes-on-fashion.html) . The New York Times : A32 . Retrieved 2022-06-22 . ...[I]n London...were long skirts that stop below the calf, best in body-hugging stretch fabrics, like Helen Robinson's skirts with a single stripe down the side found at her store PX in Covent Garden. ^ (#cite_ref-56) Duka, John (1984-10-17). "Fashion in London: Rebels with Causes" (https://www.nytimes.com/1984/10/17/garden/fashion-in-london-rebels-with-causes.html) . The New York Times : C12 . Retrieved 2022-06-22 . ...Body Map...models wear...tight, stretchy tube skirts... ^ (#cite_ref-57) "The Drumbeats of Fashion" (https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/magazine/1985/03/10/the-drumbeats-of-fashion/dd54e6c0-8c17-438a-8aef-3087c16ac56f/) . The Washington Post . 1985-03-10 . Retrieved 2022-06-22 . ...[O]ver a year ago [1984],...London designers Scott Crolla and Georgina Godley began making clothes with chintzes and tapestry fabrics that were meant to furnish homes. ^ (#cite_ref-58) Hyde, Nina (/wiki/Nina_Hyde) (1985-03-21). "Swinging England in London" (https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1985/03/21/swinging-england-in-london/572f37d4-7e76-409b-81af-bc43ca0a81d7/) . The Washington Post . Retrieved 2022-06-22 . Crolla, a shop on Dover Street, was often the fashion crowd's first stop for beautiful chintz shirts, brocade Nehru jackets and crushed-velvet pants, an opulent look sought out equally by men and women. In fact, these clothes are so popular that they are carried by other shops in London, and are sold on a limited basis to American stores so that there will be enough to go around. ^ (#cite_ref-59) Gross, Michael (1985-12-17). 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"The Fashion Outlaw Dapper Dan" (https://www.nytimes.com/2017/06/03/fashion/dapper-dan-harlem-gucci.html) . The New York Times . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0362-4331 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0362-4331) . Retrieved 2017-10-07 . ^ (#cite_ref-148) Peterson, Amy T., and Ann T. Kellogg (2008). The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing Through American History 1900 to the Present: 1900–1949. ABC-CLIO. p. 285. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780313043345 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/9780313043345) ^ (#cite_ref-149) "camillereads.com" (http://www.camillereads.com/2010/12/preppy-look-brief-history.html) . www.camillereads.com . ^ (#cite_ref-150) Jardine, Cassandra (3 October 2007). "Ann Barr: The woman who invented Sloanes" (https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/features/3634284/Ann-Barr-The-woman-who-invented-Sloanes.html) – via www.telegraph.co.uk. Further reading [ edit ] John Peacock, Fashion Sourcebook: The 1980s , ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-500-28076-2 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-500-28076-2) (October 1, 1998) Tom Tierney, Great Fashion Designs of the Eighties , ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-486-40074-3 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-486-40074-3) (March 18, 1998) Catherine McDermott, Made in Britain: Tradition and Style in Contemporary British Fashion , ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 1-84000-545-9 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/1-84000-545-9) Breward, Christopher, Fashion , ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-19-284030-4 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-19-284030-4) (June 1, 2007) External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to 1980s fashion (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:1980s_fashion) . Children's clothing from the 1980s (http://www.wisconsinhistory.org/museum/collections/online/Results.cfm?ParentID=378550) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20090207200950/http://www.wisconsinhistory.org/museum/collections/online/Results.cfm?ParentID=378550) 2009-02-07 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) "1980s – 20th Century Fashion Drawing and Illustration" (https://web.archive.org/web/20110108023624/http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/features/20th_century_fashion_drawing_illustration/1980s/index.html) . Fashion, Jewellery & Accessories . Victoria and Albert Museum (/wiki/Victoria_and_Albert_Museum) . Archived from the original (http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/features/20th_century_fashion_drawing_illustration/1980s/index.html) on 8 January 2011 . Retrieved 2011-04-03 . Notable 1980s Fashion Models Who Defined an Era (https://promptspark.us/iconic-1980s-fashion-models-who-defined-an-era/) v t e Timeline (/wiki/Timeline_of_clothing_and_textiles_technology) of clothing and fashion History of clothing and textiles (/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles) History of fashion design (/wiki/History_of_fashion_design) Ancient (/wiki/Clothing_in_the_ancient_world) Prehistory of nakedness and clothing (/wiki/Prehistory_of_nakedness_and_clothing) China (/wiki/Popular_fashion_in_ancient_China) Han Chinese (/wiki/Hanfu) Shu (/wiki/Clothing_in_ancient_Shu) Egyptian (/wiki/Clothing_in_ancient_Egypt) Inuit (/wiki/Inuit_clothing) Biblical (/wiki/Biblical_clothing) Greek (/wiki/Clothing_in_ancient_Greece) Roman (/wiki/Clothing_in_ancient_Rome) Thracian (/wiki/Thracian_clothing) Middle Ages Anglo-Saxon (/wiki/Anglo-Saxon_dress) Byzantine (/wiki/Byzantine_dress) Chinese Liao (/wiki/Fashion_in_the_Liao_dynasty) Jurchen Jin (/wiki/Fashion_in_the_Jurchen_Jin_dynasty) Yuan (/wiki/Fashion_in_the_Yuan_dynasty) Western Xia (/wiki/Fashion_in_Western_Xia) English (/wiki/English_medieval_clothing) Europe 400s–1000s (/wiki/Early_medieval_European_dress) 1100s (/wiki/1100%E2%80%931200_in_European_fashion) 1200s (/wiki/1200%E2%80%931300_in_European_fashion) 1300s (/wiki/1300%E2%80%931400_in_European_fashion) 1400s (/wiki/1400%E2%80%931500_in_European_fashion) Korean (/wiki/Hanbok#History) Ottoman (/wiki/Ottoman_clothing) Tocharian (/wiki/Tocharian_clothing) Vietnamese (/wiki/Vietnamese_clothing#Lý_dynasty_to_Trần_dynasty_(1009–1400)) 1500s–1820s Western fashion 1500–1550 (/wiki/1500%E2%80%931550_in_European_fashion) 1550–1600 (/wiki/1550%E2%80%931600_in_European_fashion) 1600–1650 (/wiki/1600%E2%80%931650_in_Western_fashion) 1650–1700 (/wiki/1650%E2%80%931700_in_Western_fashion) 1700–1750 (/wiki/1700%E2%80%931750_in_Western_fashion) 1750–1775 (/wiki/1750%E2%80%931775_in_Western_fashion) 1775–1795 (/wiki/1775%E2%80%931795_in_Western_fashion) 1795–1820 (/wiki/1795%E2%80%931820_in_Western_fashion) Directoire style (/wiki/Directoire_style) 1820s (/wiki/1820s_in_Western_fashion) 1830s–1910s Western fashion Victorian (/wiki/Victorian_fashion) 1830s (/wiki/1830s_in_Western_fashion) 1840s (/wiki/1840s_in_Western_fashion) 1850s (/wiki/1850s_in_Western_fashion) 1860s (/wiki/1860s_in_Western_fashion) 1870s (/wiki/1870s_in_Western_fashion) 1880s (/wiki/1880s_in_Western_fashion) 1890s (/wiki/1890s_in_Western_fashion) Edwardian (/wiki/Edwardian_era#Fashion) 1900s (/wiki/1900s_in_Western_fashion) 1910s (/wiki/1910s_in_Western_fashion) 1920s–1950s Western fashion Suffrage Movement period (/wiki/Women%27s_suffrage_and_Western_women%27s_fashion_through_the_early_20th_century) 1920s (/wiki/1920s_in_Western_fashion) 1930–1945 (/wiki/1930%E2%80%931945_in_Western_fashion) 1945–1960 (/wiki/1945%E2%80%931960_in_Western_fashion) 1960s-1990s fashion 1960s (/wiki/1960s_in_fashion) 1970s (/wiki/1970s_in_fashion) 1980s 1990s (/wiki/1990s_in_fashion) 2000–present fashion 2000s (/wiki/2000s_in_fashion) 2010s (/wiki/2010s_in_fashion) 2020s (/wiki/2020s_in_fashion) impact of the COVID-19 pandemic (/wiki/Impact_of_the_COVID-19_pandemic_on_the_fashion_industry) By country and region Indian subcontinent (/wiki/History_of_clothing_in_the_Indian_subcontinent) Italy (/wiki/History_of_Italian_fashion) Japan (/wiki/Japanese_clothing#History) Meiji (/wiki/Japanese_clothing_during_the_Meiji_period) Thailand (/wiki/History_of_Thai_clothing) Western world (/wiki/History_of_Western_fashion) By clothing Bikini (/wiki/History_of_the_bikini) Corset (/wiki/History_of_corsets) Hide (/wiki/History_of_hide_materials) Swimwear (/wiki/History_of_swimwear) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐58c7647fd9‐b8zcc Cached time: 20240713180029 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 1.315 seconds Real time usage: 1.706 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 10130/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 275523/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 9103/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 17/100 Expensive parser function count: 17/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 541130/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.762/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 17877538/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 1386.056 1 -total 51.91% 719.545 1 Template:Reflist 16.40% 227.248 34 Template:Cite_book 12.02% 166.576 50 Template:Cite_web 9.98% 138.290 1 Template:Short_description 7.68% 106.483 31 Template:Cite_news 6.91% 95.716 1 Template:Timeline_of_clothing_and_fashion 6.80% 94.247 13 Template:Fix 6.76% 93.715 1 Template:Navbox 6.59% 91.404 5 Template:Lang Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:3716527-0!canonical and timestamp 20240713180029 and revision id 1231305342. 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WikiMiniAtlas 44°47′23.4″N 10°52′44.4″E  /  44.789833°N 10.879000°E  / 44.789833; 10.879000 Blufin S.p.A. Company type Private Industry Fashion Founded 1977 ; 47 years ago ( 1977 ) , Carpi (/wiki/Carpi,_Emilia-Romagna) Founder Anna Molinari Gianpaolo Tarabini Headquarters Carpi , Italy Number of locations 55 shops [1] (#cite_note-history-1) Area served Worldwide Key people Marco Marchi (chairman of the board) Products Womenswear Revenue €102.4m (2006) [2] (#cite_note-strategy-2) Website www.blufin.it (http://www.blufin.it/#/en/) Blufin S.p.A. is an Italian fashion house (/wiki/Fashion_design) founded by Anna Molinari and her late husband Gianpaolo Tarabini. The core brand is Blumarine , which they started in 1977, followed by Miss Blumarine (1987, 8- to 14-year-old girls), Blugirl (1995, for teenagers) and Anna Molinari (1995), [1] (#cite_note-history-1) which is being repositioned as their luxury brand. [2] (#cite_note-strategy-2) History [ edit ] Anna Molinari in 2010 A Blumarine blouse Blumarine was established by Anna Molinari and Gianpaolo Tarabini in 1977, in the town of Carpi (/wiki/Carpi,_Emilia-Romagna) in the province of Modena (/wiki/Province_of_Modena) . The name was inspired by the couple's favourite colour and their love of the sea. [1] (#cite_note-history-1) In 1980 they made their first appearance at Modit (/w/index.php?title=Modit&action=edit&redlink=1) in Milan (/wiki/Milan) , [1] (#cite_note-history-1) where Blumarine was named Designer of the Year, which led to their first show at Milan Fashion Week (/wiki/Milan_Fashion_Week) the following year. [1] (#cite_note-history-1) The 1986 Milan Fashion Week saw the first collection wholly designed by Anna Molinari. [1] (#cite_note-history-1) As the brand took off and they started to license it to other companies, Blufin was set up in 1988 to act as a holding company. [1] (#cite_note-history-1) By 2006 royalties accounted for €5.5m of their income. [2] (#cite_note-strategy-2) The first Blumarine boutique was opened in the Via della Spiga (/wiki/Via_della_Spiga) , Milan in 1990; [3] (#cite_note-timeline-3) the company now sells at more than 1000 retail outlets, of which 55 are own-brand boutiques. [1] (#cite_note-history-1) In July 2011 the company collection was presented at the catwalk of The Brandery (/wiki/The_Brandery) fashion show in Barcelona (/wiki/Barcelona) . [4] (#cite_note-4) Brands [ edit ] The core brand is Blumarine, which has also been licensed to other companies in the fields of lingerie, accessories, wristwatches (/wiki/Wristwatches) , [5] (#cite_note-5) [6] (#cite_note-6) homeware and so on; the perfume licence is held by ICR-ITF. [2] (#cite_note-strategy-2) In 2007, the company announced that it would be bringing bags and small leather accessories in-house, with a dedicated display area in the Milan shop at Via Montenapoleone 20. [2] (#cite_note-strategy-2) A major international expansion of Blumarine boutiques was then also planned, particularly in the Middle East and Asia. [2] (#cite_note-strategy-2) The same is true of the Blugirl brand for young women, launched in 1995 and shown in the Milan international fashion shows since 2002. [3] (#cite_note-timeline-3) Dedicated boutiques have been opened in Rome, Milan, Naples, Paris, Kiev, Kyoto, Nagoya, Taipei, Guangzhou, Hangzhou, Shanghai, Shenzhen, Beijing, and Seoul. [2] (#cite_note-strategy-2) Blugirl Folies is a brand launched in the market in 2007, aimed at younger teenage girls, integrating the Blugirl line. [2] (#cite_note-strategy-2) The Anna Molinari brand is the Blufin brand specialized in the field of pret à porter (/wiki/Ready-to-wear) and luxury clothing, designed from 1995 to 2004 by the daughter of the founder Rossella Tarabini. [7] (#cite_note-7) In February 2015, the company launched a male fashion line, Blu Sport, at Milan Fashion Week. [8] (#cite_note-8) Family [ edit ] Anna Molinari has received many awards, of which the most notable are perhaps the Isimbardi Fashion Award in 2001, and a La Kore Fashion Oscar ion 2003. She has also been involved with many charities, such as the Italian Osteoporosis (/wiki/Osteoporosis) League and the rehabilitation of prisoners. Creative director of the Blumarine and Blugirl brands, Anna Molinari is nicknamed queen of roses, due to her love for these magical and sensual flowers. [9] (#cite_note-9) As mentioned above, the couple's daughter Rossella is a designer for the company. Her brother Gianguido Tarabini joined the company in 1992, became Director of Licensing in 2004, and since the death of his father in 2006 has been the CEO in charge of all the company's commercial affairs and responsible for the Hotel Touring owned directly by his mother, separately from Blufin. [10] (#cite_note-Gianguido-10) See also [ edit ] Company portal (/wiki/Portal:Company) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Italy portal (/wiki/Portal:Italy) Italian fashion (/wiki/Italian_fashion) Made in Italy (/wiki/Made_in_Italy) Notes and references [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h "Company Profile" (https://web.archive.org/web/20071112032903/http://www.blufin.it/BF_presentation.htm) . Blufin S.p.A. Archived from the original (http://www.blufin.it/BF_presentation.htm) on 2007-11-12 . Retrieved 2008-04-08 . ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h "Blufin Business Strategies" (http://www.blufin.it/portale/strategies.pdf) (PDF) . Blufin S.p.A. 2007-11-19 . Retrieved 2008-04-08 . [ dead link ] ^ Jump up to: a b "Company History" (https://web.archive.org/web/20061101094203/http://www.blumarine.com/BF_timeline.htm) . Blufin S.p.A. Archived from the original (http://www.blumarine.com/BF_timeline.htm) on November 1, 2006 . Retrieved 2008-04-08 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) The Brandery, Catwalk, TV Fashion Runway Show (http://www.thebrandery.com/portal/appmanager/efiraSalones/S094011?_nfpb=true&_pageLabel=P75201021481310034214819&profileLocale=en) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20110903012646/http://www.thebrandery.com/portal/appmanager/efiraSalones/S094011?_nfpb=true&_pageLabel=P75201021481310034214819&profileLocale=en) September 3, 2011, at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ^ (#cite_ref-5) "two wristwatches" (https://web.archive.org/web/20160304070938/http://www.blog.limbiatiorologeria.it/img-orologi-gioielli/2009/02/orologi-blumarine-bis.jpg) . Archived from the original (http://www.blog.limbiatiorologeria.it/img-orologi-gioielli/2009/02/orologi-blumarine-bis.jpg) on 2016-03-04 . Retrieved 2015-05-15 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "wristwatch" (https://web.archive.org/web/20150923192003/http://www.blog.limbiatiorologeria.it/img-orologi-gioielli/2009/05/bm_3066l05s-a.jpg) . Archived from the original (http://www.blog.limbiatiorologeria.it/img-orologi-gioielli/2009/05/bm_3066l05s-a.jpg) on 2015-09-23 . Retrieved 2015-05-15 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "Blumarine | Abbigliamento donna, accessori, casa e profumi" (https://www.blumarine.com/it/) . www.blumarine.com (in Italian) . Retrieved 2022-05-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) Eytan, Declan (19 February 2015). "Blumarine's Anna Molinari Announces Launch Of Menswear line, Plus Venture Into Angola" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/declaneytan/2015/02/19/blumarines-anna-molinari-announces-launch-of-menswear-line-plus-venture-into-angola/#77c2e67e3512) . Forbes . Retrieved 11 March 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Wayback Machine" (https://web.archive.org/web/20150518075811/http://www.blufin.it/upload/216/cms/30522/it/2210/BLUFIN_Company_Profile_IT_new.pdf) (PDF) . Archived from the original (http://www.blufin.it/upload/216/cms/30522/it/2210/BLUFIN_Company_Profile_IT_new.pdf) (PDF) on 18 May 2015 . Retrieved 2022-05-12 . ^ (#cite_ref-Gianguido_10-0) "Gianguido Tarabini, CEO Blufin" (http://www.blumarine.com/portale/G_Tarabini_en.pdf) (PDF) . Blufin S.p.A . Retrieved 2008-04-08 . [ dead link ] External links [ edit ] Anna Molinari (https://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/designers/anna-molinari/) at FMD (/wiki/Fashion_Model_Directory) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.eqiad.main‐f656bc667‐g4bfc Cached time: 20240709021020 Cache expiry: 1979381 Reduced expiry: true Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.375 seconds Real time usage: 0.479 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 2136/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 31366/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 2342/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 17/100 Expensive parser function count: 5/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 39978/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.217/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 5315206/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 430.325 1 -total 43.34% 186.513 1 Template:Reflist 28.71% 123.555 1 Template:Infobox_company 27.10% 116.611 8 Template:Cite_web 23.98% 103.207 1 Template:Infobox 13.01% 55.980 1 Template:Coord 8.35% 35.949 1 Template:Portal 7.91% 34.051 2 Template:Dead_link 6.64% 28.588 2 Template:Fix 5.57% 23.962 4 Template:Category_handler Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:3821437-0!canonical and timestamp 20240709021020 and revision id 1213111077. 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Annual British fashion design awards The Fashion Awards , known as the British Fashion Awards until 2016, [1] (#cite_note-British_Fashion_Awards_Rebranded-1) is an annual ceremony established in the United Kingdom (/wiki/United_Kingdom) in 1989 [2] (#cite_note-2) to showcase both British and international individuals and businesses who have made the most outstanding contributions to the fashion industry during the year. The ceremony is organized by the British Fashion Council (/wiki/British_Fashion_Council) , and is the primary fundraiser for the BFC (/wiki/British_Fashion_Council) 's Education Foundation; a charity that promotes excellence in design by financially supporting students with the ability and potential to make an exceptional contribution to the fashion industry. The BFC Support Initiatives BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund, BFC/GQ Designer Menswear Fund Supported by JD.com, Inc NEWGEN, Positive Fashion, Coronavirus Foundation Fashion Fund, The Black in Fashion Council. History [ edit ] Originally named the British Fashion Awards, the first Fashion Awards ceremony took place on 17 October 1989 and was attended by Princess Diana, who wore a Catherine Walker gown ( Elvis dress ) especially for the occasion. [3] (#cite_note-3) In 2010 four-time winner of British Designer of the Year award, Alexander McQueen (/wiki/Alexander_McQueen) received the award for Outstanding Achievement in Fashion Design in recognition of his illustrious career. In 2007 the Fashion Creator Award is renamed Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator in honour of Isabella Blow (/wiki/Isabella_Blow) , who died on 7 May 2007. Blow was renowned for her unerring support of British designers and for her contribution to the international fashion industry as a whole. Award categories [4] (#cite_note-4) [ edit ] Designer of the Year [ edit ] Recognises an international designer whose innovative collections have made a notable impact on the industry, defining the shape of global fashion. Accessories Designer of the Year [ edit ] Celebrates a designer that has proven instrumental in elevating accessories to the forefront of the fashion industry, demonstrating a skill for both creativity and commerce, and establishing their brand as a global fashion leader. Business Leader [ edit ] This award recognises the work of a CEO or President of a fashion business who has overseen both creative and commercial success in the past year. With a natural aptitude to nurture both creative talent and commercial growth, the "Business Leader" enables creative freedom alongside financial stability, which in turn generates innovation and excitement within the industry and beyond. Urban Luxe Award [ edit ] Celebrating the innovation and influence of a contemporary apparel brand, the recipient of this award has redefined the way "sportswear" is perceived across the globe, elevating "casual" to high end and directional fashion. British Emerging Talent - Womenswear [ edit ] Recognising new British womenswear talent, this award celebrates a British-based womenswear or accessories designer who over the last 12 months has had a major creative impact on global fashion. British Emerging Talent - Menswear [ edit ] Celebrating emerging talent in British menswear, this award recognises the innovation and creative influence from a British-based menswear or accessories designer, whose collections have gained international attention this year. British Designer of the Year - Womenswear [ edit ] Celebrating a British womenswear designer that has been instrumental in innovating and leading women's fashion over the last year – excelling both creatively and commercially, creating an impressive footprint on the global fashion stage. British Designer of the Year - Menswear [ edit ] Recognises a leading British menswear designer who has consistently made a global impact with their innovative and creative designs, shaping the burgeoning international menswear landscape. Model of the Year [ edit ] Recognises the global impact of a model, male or female, who over the last 12 months has dominated the industry. With an influence that transcends the catwalk, the Model of The Year has made an outstanding contribution to the industry, garnering numerous editorial and advertising campaigns throughout the year. Outstanding achievement [ edit ] The Outstanding Achievement Award celebrates the overwhelming creative contribution of an individual to the fashion industry, who throughout their illustrious career has constantly shaped and reshaped the fashion world through their innovation and creativity. Their influence has reached far beyond the industry, influencing the way the general public perceive and consume fashion. This timeless visionary remains an inspiration to both peers and protégés alike. Swarovski (/wiki/Swarovski_Kristallwelten) Award for Positive Change [ edit ] The Swarovski Award for Positive Change recognises and celebrates brands or individuals who promote the welfare of others and generously use their resources to benefit good causes. Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator [ edit ] Recognising the very best innovators and creatives in fashion, this award celebrates invaluable contributions that have changed the entire fashion landscape. With a discerning eye and incessant drive, this creative has brought designers' creations to life and helped create worlds within brands. Their dedication to the craft has attracted legions of fans and the incredible body of work has already left an indelible mark on the entire industry. 2020s Special Categories [ edit ] In 2020, the British Fashion Awards were broken down into only four categories - Community, Creativity, Environment and People. Five people won each award. [5] (#cite_note-5) In 2021, normal categories resumed, with the addition of awards for fifteen "Leaders of Change" in the fashion industry. [6] (#cite_note-6) In 2022, the "Leaders of Change" award remained, but the normal categories were replaced with Model of the Year, Designer of the Year, Independent British Brand, and BFC Foundation Award. [7] (#cite_note-7) Awards Winners [ edit ] 2023 [ edit ] Award Nominated Designer of the Year Jonathan Anderson (/wiki/Jonathan_Anderson_(fashion_designer)) for JW Anderson (/wiki/JW_Anderson) and Loewe (/wiki/Loewe_(fashion_brand)) BFC Foundation Award Conner Ives British Menswear Designer of the Year Martine Rose (/wiki/Martine_Rose) for Martine Rose British Womenswear Designer of the Year Maximilian Davis (/wiki/Maximilian_Davis) for Ferragamo (/wiki/Ferragamo) New Establishment - Menswear Bianca Saunders New Establishment - Womenswear Chopova Lowena Model of the Year Paloma Elsesser (/wiki/Paloma_Elsesser) Special Recognition Award for Championing Young Designer Talent Sarah Mower (winner) Outstanding Achievement Award Valentino Garavani (/wiki/Valentino_Garavani) Special Recognition Award Sarah Burton (/wiki/Sarah_Burton) Posthumous Special Recognition Award Joe Casely-Hayford (/wiki/Joe_Casely-Hayford) Special Recognition Award for Contribution to the Fashion Industry Charlotte Tilbury (/wiki/Charlotte_Tilbury) Trailblazer Award Edward Enninful (/wiki/Edward_Enninful) Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator Campbell Addy (/wiki/Campbell_Addy) Pandora Leader of Change Award Michaela Coel (/wiki/Michaela_Coel) Cultural Innovator Award Sam Smith (/wiki/Sam_Smith) 2022 [ edit ] Award Winner Designer of the Year Pierpaolo Piccioli (/wiki/Pierpaolo_Piccioli) for Valentino (/wiki/Valentino_(fashion_house)) BFC Foundation Award S.S. Daley Independent British Designer Award Wales Bonner (/wiki/Grace_Wales_Bonner) Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator Katie Grand (/wiki/Katie_Grand) Metaverse World & Gaming Experience Award Burberry (/wiki/Burberry) Model of the Year Bella Hadid (/wiki/Bella_Hadid) Outstanding Achievement Award Yvon Chouinard (/wiki/Yvon_Chouinard) Special Recognition Award for Cultural Curation Jefferson Hack (/wiki/Jefferson_Hack) Leaders of Change Creativity Alessandro Michele (/wiki/Alessandro_Michele) Daniel Roseberry (/wiki/Daniel_Roseberry) Harris Reed (/wiki/Harris_Reed) Ibrahim Kamara Raf Simons (/wiki/Raf_Simons) Environment Bethany Williams Connor Ives (/wiki/Connor_Ives) Gabriela Hearst (/wiki/Gabriela_Hearst) Marine Serre (/wiki/Marine_Serre) Priya Ahluwalia People Aurora James (/wiki/Aurora_James) Harry Lambert (/wiki/Harry_Lambert_(stylist)) Julie Pelipas (/wiki/Julie_Pelipas) Sinéad Burke (/wiki/Sin%C3%A9ad_Burke) Rafael Pavarotti 2021 [ edit ] Award Winner Designer of the Year Kim Jones (/wiki/Kim_Jones_(designer)) for Dior Men (/wiki/Dior_Homme) and Fendi (/wiki/Fendi) BFC Foundation Award Nensi Dojaka (/wiki/Nensi_Dojaka) Independent British Designer Award Simone Rocha (/wiki/Simone_Rocha) for Simone Rocha Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator Ib Kamara (/wiki/Ib_Kamara) Outstanding Achievement Award Tommy Hilfiger (/wiki/Tommy_Hilfiger) Special Recognition Award Dylan Jones (/wiki/Dylan_Jones) Trailblazer Award Alessandro Michele (/wiki/Alessandro_Michele) Leaders of Change Creativity Alessandro Michele (/wiki/Alessandro_Michele) Demna Gvasalia (/wiki/Demna_Gvasalia) Jonathon Anderson (/wiki/Jonathan_Anderson_(fashion_designer)) Kim Jones (/wiki/Kim_Jones_(designer)) Virgil Abloh (/wiki/Virgil_Abloh) (posthumous) Environment Ahluwalia Bethany Williams Gabriela Hearst (/wiki/Gabriela_Hearst) Phoebe English (/wiki/Phoebe_English) Stella McCartney (/wiki/Stella_McCartney) People Edward Enninful (/wiki/Edward_Enninful) Harris Reed (/wiki/Harris_Reed) Kenya Hunt (/wiki/Kenya_Hunt) Samuel Ross (/wiki/Samuel_Ross) Telfar Clemens (/wiki/Telfar_Clemens) 2020 [ edit ] Award Winner Community A Sai Ta Chanel (/wiki/Chanel) Emergency Designer Network Kenneth Ize Michael Halpern Creativity Grace Wales Bonner (/wiki/Grace_Wales_Bonner) Jonathan Anderson (/wiki/Jonathan_Anderson_(fashion_designer)) Kim Jones (/wiki/Kim_Jones_(designer)) Prada (/wiki/Prada) , Miuccia Prada (/wiki/Miuccia_Prada) , and Raf Simons (/wiki/Raf_Simons) Riccardo Tisci (/wiki/Riccardo_Tisci) and Burberry (/wiki/Burberry) Environment Anya Hindmarch (/wiki/Anya_Hindmarch) Christopher Raeburn (/wiki/Christopher_Raeburn_(designer)) Gabriela Hearst (/wiki/Gabriela_Hearst) Stella McCartney (/wiki/Stella_McCartney) The Fashion Pact People Aurora James (/wiki/Aurora_James) Edward Enniful (/wiki/Edward_Enninful) Lindsay Peoples Wagner (/wiki/Lindsay_Peoples_Wagner) and Sandrine Charles for the Black in Fashion Council Priya Ahluwalia Samuel Ross (/wiki/Samuel_Ross) 2019 [ edit ] Award Winner Designer of the Year Daniel Lee (/wiki/Daniel_Lee_(designer)) for Bottega Veneta (/wiki/Bottega_Veneta) Accessories Designer of the Year Daniel Lee (/wiki/Daniel_Lee_(designer)) for Bottega Veneta (/wiki/Bottega_Veneta) Business Leader Remo Ruffini (/wiki/Remo_Ruffini) for Moncler (/wiki/Moncler) Urban Luxe Award Fenty (/wiki/Fenty_(fashion_house)) Model of the Year Adut Akech (/wiki/Adut_Akech) British Emerging Talent - Womenswear Rejina Pyo (/wiki/Rejina_Pyo) for Rejina Pyo British Emerging Talent - Menswear Bethany Williams for Bethany Williams British Designer of the Year - Womenswear Daniel Lee (/wiki/Daniel_Lee_(designer)) for Bottega Veneta (/wiki/Bottega_Veneta) British Designer of the Year - Menswear Kim Jones (/wiki/Kim_Jones_(designer)) for Dior Homme (/wiki/Dior_Homme) Outstanding Achievement Award Giorgio Armani (/wiki/Giorgio_Armani) Award For Positive Change Signatories of the Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action launched at UN Convention on Climate Change Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator Sam McKnight (/wiki/Sam_McKnight) Brand of the Year Bottega Veneta (/wiki/Bottega_Veneta) Fashion Icon Naomi Campbell (/wiki/Naomi_Campbell) Trailblazer Award Sarah Burton (/wiki/Sarah_Burton) OBE 2018 [ edit ] Award Winner Designer of the Year Pierpaolo Piccioli (/wiki/Pierpaolo_Piccioli) for Valentino (/wiki/Valentino_SpA) Accessories Designer of the Year Demna Gvasalia (/wiki/Demna_Gvasalia) for Balenciaga (/wiki/Balenciaga) Business Leader Marco Bizzarri (/wiki/Marco_Bizzarri) for Gucci (/wiki/Gucci) Urban Luxe Award Virgil Abloh (/wiki/Virgil_Abloh) for Off-White (/wiki/Off-White_(company)) Model of the Year Kaia Gerber (/wiki/Kaia_Gerber) British Emerging Talent - Womenswear Richard Quinn (/wiki/Richard_Quinn_(designer)) for Richard Quinn British Emerging Talent - Menswear Samuel Ross for A-COLD-WALL (/w/index.php?title=A-COLD-WALL&action=edit&redlink=1) British Designer of the Year - Womenswear Clare Waight Keller (/wiki/Clare_Waight_Keller) for Givenchy (/wiki/Givenchy) British Designer of the Year - Menswear Craig Green (/wiki/Craig_Green_(designer)) for CRAIG GREEN Outstanding Achievement Award Miuccia Prada (/wiki/Miuccia_Prada) Swarovski Award for Positive Change Dame Vivienne Westwood (/wiki/Vivienne_Westwood) Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator Mert and Marcus (/wiki/Mert_and_Marcus) Brand of the Year Gucci (/wiki/Gucci) Special Recognition Award for Innovation Parley for the Oceans (/wiki/Parley_for_the_Oceans) 2018 Trailblazer Kim Jones (/wiki/Kim_Jones_(designer)) 2017 [ edit ] Award Winner Designer of the Year Raf Simons (/wiki/Raf_Simons) for Calvin Klein Accessories Designer of the Year Jonathan Anderson (/wiki/Jonathan_Anderson_(fashion_designer)) for Loewe (/wiki/LOEWE_(fashion_brand)) Business Leader Marco Bizzarri (/wiki/Marco_Bizzarri) for Gucci (/wiki/Gucci) Urban Luxe Award Off-White (/wiki/Off-White_(company)) Model of the Year Naomi Campbell (/wiki/Naomi_Campbell) British Emerging Talent - Womenswear Michael Halpern for Halpern British Emerging Talent - Menswear Charles Jeffrey (/wiki/Charles_Jeffrey_(fashion_designer)) for Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY British Designer of the Year - Womenswear Jonathan Anderson (/wiki/Jonathan_Anderson_(fashion_designer)) for JW Anderson British Designer of the Year - Menswear Craig Green (/wiki/Craig_Green_(designer)) for CRAIG GREEN Outstanding Contribution to British Fashion Award Christopher Bailey MBE (/wiki/Christopher_Bailey_(fashion_designer)) Swarovski Award for Positive Change Maria Grazia Chiuri (/wiki/Maria_Grazia_Chiuri) for Dior (/wiki/Christian_Dior_SE) Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator Pat McGrath (/wiki/Pat_McGrath_(make-up_artist)) MBE Fashion Icon Versace & Artistic Director Donatella Versace (/wiki/Donatella_Versace) Special Recognition Award for Innovation Stella McCartney (/wiki/Stella_McCartney) OBE 2016 [ edit ] Award Winner British Menswear Designer of the Year Craig Green (/wiki/Craig_Green_(designer)) for Craig Green British Womenswear Designer of the Year Simone Rocha (/wiki/Simone_Rocha) for Simone Rocha British Emerging Talent Molly Goddard (/wiki/Molly_Goddard) The Swarovski Award for Positive Change Franca Sozzani (/wiki/Franca_Sozzani) Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator Bruce Weber (/wiki/Bruce_Weber_(photographer)) Special Recognition 100 Years of British Vogue British Brand Alexander McQueen (/wiki/Alexander_McQueen) International Business Leader Marco Bizzarri (/wiki/Marco_Bizzarri) for Gucci International Urban Luxury Brand Vetements (/wiki/Vetements) by Guram Gvasalia (/w/index.php?title=Guram_Gvasalia&action=edit&redlink=1) International Accessories Designer Alessandro Michele (/wiki/Alessandro_Michele) for Gucci International Ready-to-Wear Designer Demna Gvasalia (/wiki/Demna_Gvasalia) for Balenciaga International Model Gigi Hadid (/wiki/Gigi_Hadid) New Fashion Icon Jaden (/wiki/Jaden_Smith) & Willow Smith (/wiki/Willow_Smith) Outstanding Achievement Ralph Lauren (/wiki/Ralph_Lauren) 2015 [ edit ] Award Winner Menswear Designer of The Year JW Anderson (/wiki/JW_Anderson) Womenswear Designer of The Year JW Anderson (/wiki/JW_Anderson) Emerging Womenswear Designer Thomas Tait (/w/index.php?title=Thomas_Tait_(designer)&action=edit&redlink=1) Emerging Menswear Designer Grace Wales Bonner (/wiki/Grace_Wales_Bonner) Emerging Accessory Designer Jordan Askill (/wiki/Jordan_Askill) Red Carpet Tom Ford (/wiki/Tom_Ford) Model Jourdan Dunn (/wiki/Jourdan_Dunn) Outstanding Achievement Award Karl Lagerfeld (/wiki/Karl_Lagerfeld) Creative Campaign Burberry (/wiki/Burberry) International Designer Alessandro Michele (/wiki/Alessandro_Michele) for Gucci New Establishment Designer Mary Katrantzou (/wiki/Mary_Katrantzou) Establishment Designer Erdem (/wiki/Erdem_Moral%C4%B1o%C4%9Flu) Brand Stella McCartney (/wiki/Stella_McCartney) Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator Nick Knight (/wiki/Nick_Knight_(photographer)) British Style - Red Carpet Ambassador Gwendoline Christie (/wiki/Gwendoline_Christie) British Style - Fashion Innovator FKA Twigs (/wiki/FKA_Twigs) Accessory Designer Charlotte Olympia (/wiki/Charlotte_Olympia) 2014 [ edit ] Award Winner Menswear Designer of The Year J.W. Anderson Womenswear Designer of The Year Erdem Emerging Womenswear Designer Marques'Almeida Emerging Menswear Designer Craig Green Emerging Accessory Designer Prism Red Carpet Designer Alexander McQueen Model Cara Delevingne (/wiki/Cara_Delevingne) Special Recognition Award Chris Moore Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator Edward Enninful (/wiki/Edward_Enninful) International Designer Nicolas Ghesquiere (/wiki/Nicolas_Ghesqui%C3%A8re) for Louis Vuitton Outstanding Achievement Award Anna Wintour (/wiki/Anna_Wintour) OBE Creative Campaign Louis Vuitton (/wiki/Louis_Vuitton) New Establishment Designer Simone Rocha Establishment Designer Preen Brand Victoria Beckham (/wiki/Victoria_Beckham) British Style Award Emma Watson (/wiki/Emma_Watson) Accessory Designer Anya Hindmarch (/wiki/Anya_Hindmarch) 2013 [ edit ] Award Winner Menswear Designer of The Year Christopher Bailey For Burberry Womenswear Designer of The Year Christopher Kane Emerging Womenswear Designer Simone Rocha Emerging Menswear Designer Agi & Sam Emerging Accessories Designer Sophia Webster Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator Lady Amanda Harlech Model of The Year Edie Campbell (/wiki/Edie_Campbell) International Designer of The Year Miuccia Prada For Prada Red Carpet Award Erdem New Establishment Designer of The Year J.W. Anderson Brand of The Year Burberry British Style Award Brought to You by Vodafone Harry Styles (/wiki/Harry_Styles) Accessory Designer of The Year Nicholas Kirkwood BFC Outstanding Achievement Award Terry and Tricia Jones Special Recognition Award Kate Moss (/wiki/Kate_Moss) Special Recognition Award Suzy Menkes 2012 [ edit ] Award Winner Designer of The Year Stella McCartney British Style Award Alexa Chung Emerging Talent Award - Ready-To-Wear J.W. Anderson Emerging Talent Award - Menswear Jonathan Saunders Red Carpet Award Roksanda Ilincic Emerging Talent - Accessories Sophie Hulme Accessory Designer Nicholas Kirkwood Designer Brand Stella McCartney Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator Louise Wilson Model Cara Delevingne (/wiki/Cara_Delevingne) New Establishment Award Erdem Menswear Designer Kim Jones For Louis Vuitton BFC Outstanding Achievement in Fashion Manolo Blahnik CBE Special Recognition Award Harold Tillman 2011 [ edit ] Award Winner Designer of The Year Sarah Burton For Alexander McQueen Emerging Talent Award - Ready-To-Wear Mary Katrantzou Emerging Talent Award - Accessories Tabitha Simmons (/wiki/Tabitha_Simmons) Emerging Talent Award - Menswear Christopher Raeburn Model Stella Tennant (/wiki/Stella_Tennant) Designer Brand Victoria Beckham British Style Award Alexa Chung Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator Sam Gainsbury Red Carpet Award Stella McCartney Accessory Designer Charlotte Olympia New Establishment Award Christopher Kane 2010 [ edit ] Award Winner Designer of the Year Phoebe Philo for Celine BFC Outstanding Achievement in Fashion Alexander McQueen Accessory Designer Nicholas Kirkwood Model Lara Stone (/wiki/Lara_Stone) Menswear Designer E. Tautz (/wiki/E._Tautz) Emerging Talent Award - Ready-to-Wear Meadham Kirchhoff Emerging Talent Award - Accessories Husam El Odeh Special Recognition Naomi Campbell (/wiki/Naomi_Campbell) Digital Innovation Burberry British Style Alexa Chung Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator Nicola Formichetti Designer Brand Mulberry 2009 [ edit ] Award Winner BFC Designer of the Year Christopher Bailey (/wiki/Christopher_Bailey_(fashion_designer)) Swarovski Emerging Talent Award for Accessories Holly Fulton (/wiki/Holly_Fulton) Swarovski Emerging Talent Award for Ready-to-Wear Peter Pilotto Designer Brand Burberry (/wiki/Burberry) Model Georgia May Jagger (/wiki/Georgia_May_Jagger) Accessory Designer Katie Hillier (/wiki/Katie_Hillier) Menswear Designer Kim Jones (/wiki/Kim_Jones_(designer)) for Dunhill BFC Outstanding Achievement in Fashion Design John Galliano (/wiki/John_Galliano) London 25 Kate Moss (/wiki/Kate_Moss) Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator Grace Coddington (/wiki/Grace_Coddington) BFC British Collection of the Year Christopher Kane (/wiki/Christopher_Kane) 2008 [ edit ] Award Winner Designer of the Year Luella Bartley Outstanding Achievement Stephen Jones Swarovski Emerging Talent Award - Accessories Nicholas Kirkwood Swarovski Emerging Talent Award - Ready to Wear Louise Goldin Menswear Designer Christopher Bailey for Burberry Red Carpet Designer Matthew Williamson Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator Tim Walker Designer Brand Jimmy Choo Accessory Designer Rupert Sanderson Model Jourdan Dunn Bespoke Richard James 2007 [ edit ] Award Winner Designer of the Year Stella McCartney Red Carpet Designer Marchesa New Generation Designer Christopher Kane Accessory Designer Tom Binns Best New Retail Concept Marc Jacobs Menswear Designer Christopher Bailey for Burberry Model Agyness Deyn Designer Brand Anya Hindmarch BFC Award for Outstanding Achievement in Fashion Design Dame Vivienne Westwood BFC Enterprise Award (sponsor: Swarovski) Erdem Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creation Michael Howells 2006 [ edit ] Award Winner Designer of the Year Giles Deacon Red Carpet Designer Vivienne Westwood New Generation Designer Marios Schwab Accessory Designer Stuart Vevers for Mulberry Retailer B Store Menswear Designer Kim Jones Model of the Year Kate Moss V&A Award for Outstanding Achievement in Fashion Joan Burstein CBE Fashion Creator Eugene Souleiman BFC Fashion Enterprise Jonathan Saunders 2005 [ edit ] Award Winner Designer of the Year Christopher Bailey Red Carpet Designer Roland Mouret New Generation Designer Duro Olowu Accessory Designer Stephen Jones Retailer Dover Street Market Menswear Designer Carlo Brandelli for Kilgour Model of the Year Karen Elson (/wiki/Karen_Elson) V&A Award for Outstanding Achievement in Fashion Suzy Menkes OBE Fashion Creator Charlotte Tilbury 2004 [ edit ] Award Winner Designer of the Year Phoebe Philo New Designer Giles Deacon Accessory Designer Mulberry Retailer Net-a-Porter Menswear Designer Alexander McQueen Model of the Year Lily Cole (/wiki/Lily_Cole) V&A Award for Outstanding Achievement in Fashion David Bailey Fashion Creator Pat McGrath 2003 [ edit ] Award Winner Designer of the Year Alexander McQueen New Generation Designer Sophia Kokosalaki Accessory Designer Manolo Blahnik CBE Glamour Designer Julien Macdonald Contemporary Designer Paul Smith High Street Fashion Retailer Reiss Menswear Designer Paul Smith British Journalist of the Year Hilary Alexander (/wiki/Hilary_Alexander) Most Stylish Photographer Mario Testino Most Stylish Model Erin O'Connor Stylist Katie Grand Female TV Personality Kim Cattrall (/wiki/Kim_Cattrall) Male TV Personality Ant & Dec Movie Actress Minnie Driver Movie Actor Ewan McGregor Male Music Artist Robbie Williams Female Music Artist Victoria Beckham Sports Personality David Beckham (/wiki/David_Beckham) 2002 [ edit ] No awards given 2001 [ edit ] Award Winner Designer of the Year Alexander McQueen Glamour Designer Julien Macdonald Classic Designer Paul Smith Contemporary Designer Burberry Accessory Designer Anya Hindmarch Street Style i.e. uniform New Generation Designer Stella McCartney Retailer Topshop Journalist Lisa Armstrong Stylist Lucinda Chambers (/wiki/Lucinda_Chambers) Model Kate Moss Menswear Richard James Rover People's Award Jemima Khan 2000 [ edit ] Award Winner Designer of the Year Hussein Chalayan Glamour Designer Stella McCartney Classic Design Burberry Contemporary Design Joseph (/wiki/Joseph_(fashion_brand)) Accessory Designer Jimmy Choo Street Style Maharishi New Generation Designer Tracey Boyd Retailer Topshop Journalist Mimi Spencer Stylist Katy England Menswear Designer Ozwald Boateng Rover People's Award Alexander McQueen 1999 [ edit ] Award Winner Designer of the Year Hussein Chalayan Hall of Fame Vidal Sassoon Classic Design Burberry Contemporary Designer Betty Jackson Accessory Designer Manolo Blahnik CBE Street Style YMC New Generation Designer Elspeth Gibson Retailer French Connection Journalist Suzy Menkes Glamour Designer English Eccentrics Stylist Lucinda Chambers (/wiki/Lucinda_Chambers) Menswear Paul Smith 1998 [ edit ] No awards given 1997 [ edit ] Award Winner Designer of the Year Alexander McQueen & John Galliano Hall of Fame Clinton Silver Classic Design John Smedley Contemporary Designer Nicole Farhi Accessory Designer Philip Treacy Street Style Red or Dead New Generation Designer Antonio Berardi Retailer Jigsaw Journalist Hilary Alexander (/wiki/Hilary_Alexander) Glamour Designer Pearce Fionda Menswear Designer Paul Smith 1996 [ edit ] Award Winner Designer of the Year Alexander McQueen Hall of Fame Lady Mary Henderson Classic Design Jaeger Contemporary Designer Nicole Farhi Accessory Designer Philip Treacy Street Style Red or Dead New Generation Designer Clements Ribiero Design-led retail Oasis Journalist Iain R. Webb Glamour Designer Amanda Wakeley Fashion Personality Kate Moss 1995 [ edit ] Award Winner Designer of the Year John Galliano Hall of Fame Zandra Rhodes Classic Design Marks & Spencer Contemporary Designer Nicole Farhi Accessory Designer Patrick Cox Street Style Red or Dead New Generation Designer Pearce Fionda Design-led retail Oasis Journalist Iain R. Webb Glamour Designer Ben De Lisi 1994 [ edit ] Award Winner Designer of the Year John Galliano Hall of Fame Jean Muir Glamour Designer Ben De Lisi Classic Design Marks & Spencer Accessory Designer Patrick Cox Knitwear Design Joseph (/wiki/Joseph_(fashion_brand)) More Dash than Cash French Connection New Generation Designer Copperwheat Blundell Design led retail Whistles 1993 [ edit ] Award Winner Designer of the Year John Rocha (/wiki/John_Rocha) More Dash than Cash French Connection (/wiki/French_Connection_(clothing)) Classic Design Jaeger Knitwear Design Joseph (/wiki/Joseph_(fashion_brand)) Accessory Designer Philip Treacy (/wiki/Philip_Treacy) New Generation Designer Abe Hamilton Design led retail Whistles (/wiki/Whistles_(company)) Glamour Designer Amanda Wakeley (/wiki/Amanda_Wakeley) 1992 [ edit ] Award Winner Designer of the Year Rifat Ozbek (/wiki/Rifat_Ozbek) Glamour Designer Amanda Wakeley (/wiki/Amanda_Wakeley) Classic Design Mulberry Knitwear Design Joseph (/wiki/Joseph_(fashion_brand)) Accessory Designer Philip Treacy (/wiki/Philip_Treacy) New Generation Designer Flyte Ostell (/w/index.php?title=Flyte_Ostell&action=edit&redlink=1) More Dash than Cash Monix Hall of Fame Sir Edward Rayne (/wiki/Edward_Rayne) 1991 [ edit ] Award Winner Designer of the Year Vivienne Westwood Hall of Fame Beatrix Miller (/wiki/Beatrix_Miller) New Generation Designer Bella Freud (/wiki/Bella_Freud) Accessory Designer Philip Treacy (/wiki/Philip_Treacy) More Dash than Cash Monix Ready-to-Wear Designer John Smedley Classic Designer Jasper Conran (/wiki/Jasper_Conran) Glamour Designer Catherine Walker (/wiki/Catherine_Walker_(fashion_designer)) 1990 [ edit ] Award Winner Designer of the Year Vivienne Westwood (/wiki/Vivienne_Westwood) Hall of Fame Mary Quant (/wiki/Mary_Quant) Classic Design Joseph (/wiki/Joseph_(fashion_brand)) Knitwear Design Joseph (/wiki/Joseph_(fashion_brand)) Accessory Designer Manolo Blahnik (/wiki/Manolo_Blahnik) More Dash than Cash Jigsaw (/wiki/Jigsaw_(clothing_retailer)) Innovative Design Helen Storey (/wiki/Helen_Storey) British Couture Designer Catherine Walker (/wiki/Catherine_Walker_(fashion_designer)) Glamour Designer Rifat Ozbek 1989 [ edit ] Award Winner Designer of the Year Workers for Freedom (/wiki/Workers_for_Freedom) Hall of Fame Hardy Amies (/wiki/Hardy_Amies) Classic Designer Nicole Farhi (/wiki/Nicole_Farhi) Contemporary Design Jigsaw Accessory Designer Dinny Hall Photographer of the Year Eamonn McCabe (/wiki/Eamonn_McCabe) Glamour Designer Anthony Price (/wiki/Antony_Price) 1988 [ edit ] Award Winner Designer of the Year Rifat Ozbek (/wiki/Rifat_Ozbek) 1987 [ edit ] Award Winner Designer of the Year John Galliano (/wiki/John_Galliano) 1986 [ edit ] Award Winner Designer of the Year Jasper Conran (/wiki/Jasper_Conran) 1985 [ edit ] Award Winner Designer of the Year Betty Jackson (/wiki/Betty_Jackson) 1984 [ edit ] Award Winner Designer of the Year Katharine Hamnett (/wiki/Katharine_Hamnett) Host, location, and sponsors by year [8] (#cite_note-8) [ edit ] Year Host Sponsor(s) Location 2023 Maya Jama (/wiki/Maya_Jama) , Kojey Radical (/wiki/Kojey_Radical) , Law Roach (/wiki/Law_Roach) Pandora (/wiki/Pandora_(jewelry)) , Don Julio (/wiki/Don_Julio) , Getty Images (/wiki/Getty_Images) , Royal Salute (/wiki/Royal_Salute_(whisky)) The Royal Albert Hall (/wiki/Royal_Albert_Hall) 2022 Jodie Turner-Smith (/wiki/Jodie_Turner-Smith) Diet Coke (/wiki/Diet_Coke) , Getty Images (/wiki/Getty_Images) , Moët & Chandon (/wiki/Mo%C3%ABt_%26_Chandon) The Royal Albert Hall (/wiki/Royal_Albert_Hall) 2021 Billy Porter (/wiki/Billy_Porter) TikTok (/wiki/TikTok) The Royal Albert Hall (/wiki/Royal_Albert_Hall) 2020 Priyanka Chopra (/wiki/Priyanka_Chopra) , Lewis Hamilton (/wiki/Lewis_Hamilton) , Aja Barber, Maisie Williams (/wiki/Maisie_Williams) , Rosalía (/wiki/Rosal%C3%ADa) Swarovski (/wiki/Swarovski) N/A 2019 Tracee Ellis Ross (/wiki/Tracee_Ellis_Ross) American Express (/wiki/American_Express) , Bird In Hand, Getty Images (/wiki/Getty_Images) , Lavazza (/wiki/Lavazza) , Rosewood London, Slingsby Gin, Swarovski (/wiki/Swarovski) The Royal Albert Hall (/wiki/Royal_Albert_Hall) 2018 Jack Whitehall (/wiki/Jack_Whitehall) , Alek Wek (/wiki/Alek_Wek) American Express (/wiki/American_Express) , Bird In Hand, Digital Domain (/wiki/Digital_Domain) , Getty Images (/wiki/Getty_Images) , Lavazza (/wiki/Lavazza) , Mercedes-Benz (/wiki/Mercedes-Benz) , Rosewood London, Slingsby Gin, Swarovski (/wiki/Swarovski) The Royal Albert Hall (/wiki/Royal_Albert_Hall) |- 2017 Karlie Kloss (/wiki/Karlie_Kloss) American Express (/wiki/American_Express) , Place Vendôme, Digital Domain (/wiki/Digital_Domain) , Getty Images (/wiki/Getty_Images) , Mercedes, Yahoo The Royal Albert Hall (/wiki/Royal_Albert_Hall) 2016 Jack Whitehall (/wiki/Jack_Whitehall) American Express (/wiki/American_Express) , MAC cosmetics (/wiki/MAC_cosmetics) and Toni & Guy (/wiki/Toni_%26_Guy) The Royal Albert Hall (/wiki/Royal_Albert_Hall) 2015 Jack Whitehall (/wiki/Jack_Whitehall) MAC cosmetics (/wiki/MAC_cosmetics) and Toni & Guy (/wiki/Toni_%26_Guy) London Coliseum (/wiki/London_Coliseum) 2014 Jack Whitehall (/wiki/Jack_Whitehall) Canon, MAC cosmetics (/wiki/MAC_cosmetics) , Toni & Guy (/wiki/Toni_%26_Guy) and Vodafone (/wiki/Vodafone) London Coliseum (/wiki/London_Coliseum) 2013 [9] (#cite_note-9) Jack Whitehall (/wiki/Jack_Whitehall) Canon, MAC cosmetics (/wiki/MAC_cosmetics) , Toni & Guy (/wiki/Toni_%26_Guy) , Vodafone (/wiki/Vodafone) and Westfield London Coliseum (/wiki/London_Coliseum) 2012 [10] (#cite_note-10) Gemma Arterton (/wiki/Gemma_Arterton) and Nick Grimshaw (/wiki/Nick_Grimshaw) American Express, Canon, MAC cosmetics (/wiki/MAC_cosmetics) , Toni & Guy (/wiki/Toni_%26_Guy) and, Vodafone (/wiki/Vodafone) Savoy Hotel and Theatre 2011 [11] (#cite_note-11) George Lamb (/wiki/George_Lamb) and Lauren Laverne (/wiki/Lauren_Laverne) MAC cosmetics (/wiki/MAC_cosmetics) , Toni & Guy (/wiki/Toni_%26_Guy) , and Vodafone N/A 2010 [12] (#cite_note-12) Claudia Winkleman (/wiki/Claudia_Winkleman) Canon, MAC cosmetics (/wiki/MAC_cosmetics) , Toni & Guy (/wiki/Toni_%26_Guy) , Vodafone (/wiki/Vodafone) , and Westfield The Savoy Hotel and Theatre 2009 [13] (#cite_note-13) Lauren Laverne (/wiki/Lauren_Laverne) Swarovski (/wiki/Swarovski) , Evian, FASHIONAIR, HELLO! MAC, Marks & Spencer, Renault, The May Fair and Toni & Guy (/wiki/Toni_%26_Guy) Royal Courts of Justice 2008 Mariella Frostrup (/wiki/Mariella_Frostrup) (broadcaster) Swarovski (/wiki/Swarovski) Royal Horticultural Halls – Lawrence Hall 2007 Zoë Ball (/wiki/Zo%C3%AB_Ball) Swarovski (/wiki/Swarovski) Royal Horticultural Halls – Lawrence Hall 2006 Daisy Donovan (/wiki/Daisy_Donovan) Swarovski (/wiki/Swarovski) Victoria & Albert Museum (/wiki/Victoria_%26_Albert_Museum) 2005 - Lloyds Victoria & Albert Museum (/wiki/Victoria_%26_Albert_Museum) 2004 - - Victoria & Albert Museum (/wiki/Victoria_%26_Albert_Museum) 2003 - Lycra Old Billingsgate Market 2002 - - - 2001 - Rover Battersea Park Arena 2000 - Rover Natural History Museum 1999 - Sky News - 1997 - Lloyds The Royal Albert Hotel 1996 - Lloyds The Royal Albert Hall (/wiki/Royal_Albert_Hall) 1995 - Lloyds Natural History Museum (/wiki/Natural_History_Museum,_London) 1994 - Lloyds Natural History Museum (/wiki/Natural_History_Museum,_London) 1993 - Lloyds Natural History Museum (/wiki/Natural_History_Museum,_London) 1992 - Lloyds Grosvenor House 1991 - Lloyds Duke of York's Headquarters 1990 - Lloyds The Royal Albert Hall (/wiki/Royal_Albert_Hall) 1989 - Clairol The Royal Albert Hall (/wiki/Royal_Albert_Hall) See also [ edit ] List of fashion awards (/wiki/List_of_fashion_awards) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-British_Fashion_Awards_Rebranded_1-0) "How The Fashion Awards Sold Out Britain" (http://www.ikonlondonmagazine.com/how-the-fashion-awards-sold-out-britain/) . Ikon London Magazine. 17 December 2016 . Retrieved 1 January 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Awards History" (http://www.britishfashionawards.co.uk/content.aspx?CategoryID=247) . Retrieved 27 March 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "A Potted History Of The Fashion Awards" (https://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/british-fashion-awards-retrospective-gallery-history-in-pictures) . British Vogue . 5 December 2016 . Retrieved 21 December 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Winners 2013" (http://britishfashionawards.co.uk/content.aspx?CategoryID=922) . Retrieved 27 March 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Seward, Mahoro. "Here are the winners of The Fashion Awards 2020" (https://i-d.vice.com/en/article/jgqgjp/the-fashion-awards-winners-2020-asai-ahluwalia-grace-wales-bonner) . i-d.vice.com . Retrieved 25 April 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "The Fashion Awards - 2021 Winners" (https://fashionawards.com/2021-Winners) . fashionawards.com . Retrieved 25 April 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Teather, Charlie (25 October 2022). "All the winners from the British Fashion Awards 2022 (including Bella Hadid for 'Model of the Year')" (https://www.glamourmagazine.co.uk/article/fashion-awards-2022-nominees-winners) . Glamour UK . Retrieved 25 April 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "British Fashion Awards-Facts & Figures" (http://www.britishfashionawards.co.uk/uploads/media/59/12330.pdf) (PDF) . Retrieved 27 March 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "2013 Award Winners" (https://web.archive.org/web/20140327234830/http://www.britishfashionawards.co.uk/news_detail.aspx?ID=440&q=2013%20Award%20Winners) . Archived from the original (http://www.britishfashionawards.co.uk/news_detail.aspx?ID=440&q=2013%20Award%20Winners) on 27 March 2014 . Retrieved 27 March 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "2012 Award Winners" (http://www.britishfashionawards.co.uk/news_detail.aspx?ID=432&q=2012%20Award%20Winners) . Retrieved 27 March 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "2011 Award Winners" (http://www.britishfashionawards.co.uk/news_detail.aspx?ID=387&q=2011%20Award%20Winners) . Retrieved 27 March 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "2010 Award Winners" (http://www.britishfashionawards.co.uk/news_detail.aspx?ID=260&q=2010%20Award%20Winners) . Retrieved 27 March 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) "2009 Award Winners" (http://www.britishfashionawards.co.uk/news_detail.aspx?ID=159&q=2009%20Winners) . Retrieved 27 March 2014 . External links [ edit ] BFC Official Website (http://www.britishfashioncouncil.com/) v t e Fashion (/wiki/Fashion) articles Index of fashion articles (/wiki/Index_of_fashion_articles) General Environmental impact of fashion (/wiki/Environmental_impact_of_fashion) Fashion accessory (/wiki/Fashion_accessory) Fashion design (/wiki/Fashion_design) Fashion design copyright (/wiki/Fashion_design_copyright) Fashion matrix (/wiki/Fashion_matrix) Fashion museum (/wiki/Fashion_museum) Fashion plate (/wiki/Fashion_plate) Fashion tourism (/wiki/Fashion_tourism) Semiotics of fashion (/wiki/Semiotics_of_fashion) History (/wiki/History_of_fashion_design) History of clothing and textiles (/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles) History of Western fashion (/wiki/History_of_Western_fashion) History of fashion design (/wiki/History_of_fashion_design) Timeline of clothing and textiles technology (/wiki/Timeline_of_clothing_and_textiles_technology) 19th century (/wiki/19th_century_in_fashion) 21st century 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Not to be confused with Western dress codes § Full dress, half dress, and undress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) . This article needs additional citations for verification (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this article (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Undress_code) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Find sources: "Undress code" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Undress+code%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Undress+code%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Undress+code%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Undress+code%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Undress+code%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Undress+code%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( August 2007 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Part of a series (/wiki/Category:Formal_wear) on Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) and corresponding attires (/wiki/Clothing) Formal (/wiki/Formal_wear) ( full dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) White tie (/wiki/White_tie) Morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) Full dress uniform (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) Frock coat (/wiki/Frock_coat) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Ball gown (/wiki/Ball_gown) Semi-formal (/wiki/Semi-formal_wear) ( half dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) Black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) Black lounge suit (/wiki/Black_lounge_suit) Mess dress uniform (/wiki/Mess_dress_uniform) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Informal (/wiki/Informal_wear) ( undress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) , "dress clothes") Suit (/wiki/Suit) Service dress uniform (/wiki/Service_dress_uniform) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Pantsuit (/wiki/Pantsuit) Casual (/wiki/Casual_wear) (anything not above) Business casual (/wiki/Business_casual) Casual Friday (/wiki/Casual_Friday) Combat uniform (/wiki/Combat_uniform) Smart casual (/wiki/Smart_casual) Workwear (/wiki/Workwear) Streetwear (/wiki/Streetwear) Sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear) known as Sportswear (fashion) (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) and Athleisure (/wiki/Athleisure) Undress Supplementary alternatives Ceremonial dress (/wiki/Ceremonial_dress) law courts (/wiki/Court_dress) royal courts (/wiki/Court_uniform_and_dress_in_the_United_Kingdom) diplomatic (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) academic (/wiki/Academic_dress) , etc. Religious clothing (/wiki/Religious_clothing) cassock (/wiki/Cassock) , habit (/wiki/Religious_habit) , etc. Folk costume (/wiki/Folk_costume) Distinctions Orders (/wiki/Order_(distinction)) medals (/wiki/Medal) , etc. Legend: = Day (before 6 p.m.) = Evening (after 6 p.m.) = Bow tie (/wiki/Bow_tie) colour = Ladies = Gentlemen Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) v t e An undress code is a social norm which sets an upper limit on the amount of clothing (/wiki/Clothing) that can or should be worn. [ citation needed ] Promoters of the entertainment industry, including sport, attempt to "sex-up" the entertainment by under-dressing the entertainers or sportspeople. For example, in 1999, the beach volleyball (/wiki/Beach_volleyball) regulatory body, the International Volleyball Federation (/wiki/International_Volleyball_Federation) , set a limit on the amount of clothing allowed for the athletes to wear during competition. The women's uniform comprises a bikini with a width limit on the bottoms of 2.5 inches (6.4 cm) on the sides, [1] (#cite_note-1) which has led to some controversy (/wiki/Beach_volleyball#Uniform_controversy) , [2] (#cite_note-2) and in 2012 these limits were relaxed. [3] (#cite_note-3) In July 2021, a beach handball team was fined because its women members wore shorts instead of bikini bottoms in a match, which requires no more than 10cm of their behind to be covered. [4] (#cite_note-4) [5] (#cite_note-5) Similarly, organisers of some swimsuit competitions (/wiki/Swimsuit_competition) set a low maximum threshold for swimwear for contestants. Some restaurants, sometimes called breastaurants (/wiki/Breastaurant) , require female waiting staff (/wiki/Waiting_staff) to be skimpily-dressed. The social norm in some countries is to wear considerably less or briefer clothing than in others. [6] (#cite_note-6) Fashions since the mid-20th century has been towards briefer, more form-fitting (/wiki/Form-fitting) styles, as well as thinner and sheer (/wiki/See-through_clothing) materials. In some cultures, including some in Africa, Latin America and South-East Asia/Oceania, traditional dress consists of less clothing than those of the West. Some religious traditions or rituals require the members to be nude, as was the case with the ancient Indian gymnosophists (/wiki/Gymnosophists) or the Christian sect of the Adamites (/wiki/Adamites) (the custom is still practised by ascetics (/wiki/Ascetic) of certain Indian religions (/wiki/Indian_religions) , as in Jainism (/wiki/Jainism) ). (See also Christian naturism (/wiki/Christian_naturism) .) Laws in many countries require a person to undress in some circumstances when requested by a customs or police officer in a strip search (/wiki/Strip_search) . See also [ edit ] Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Bikini blues – Beach volleyball makes the swimsuit standard" (https://web.archive.org/web/20070813055124/http://www.cnn.com/STYLE/9901/13/vollyball.bikini/) . CNN.com . Archived from the original (http://www.cnn.com/STYLE/9901/13/vollyball.bikini/) on August 13, 2007. ^ (#cite_ref-2) "Beach Volleyball dress shed controversy" (http://www.toxicclub.com/2015/controversy-over-women-athletes-shedding-their-clothes-in-field/) . 1999. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20150712224812/http://www.toxicclub.com/2015/controversy-over-women-athletes-shedding-their-clothes-in-field/) from the original on 2015-07-12 . Retrieved 2021-02-09 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "London 2012 Olympics: female beach volleyball players permitted to wear less revealing uniforms" (https://www.telegraph.co.uk/sport/olympics/volleyball/9169429/London-2012-Olympics-female-beach-volleyball-players-permitted-to-wear-less-revealing-uniforms.html) . Telegraph. 27 March 2012. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20210209152258/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/sport/olympics/volleyball/9169429/London-2012-Olympics-female-beach-volleyball-players-permitted-to-wear-less-revealing-uniforms.html) from the original on 2021-02-09 . Retrieved 2019-02-13 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Rathborn, Jack (22 July 2021). "Norwegian women's beach handball team fined for not wearing bikini bottoms" (https://www.independent.co.uk/sport/general/others/norway-womens-beach-handball-bikini-shorts-b1887065.html) . www.independent.co.uk . The Independent . Retrieved 12 March 2024 . The governing body's rules state: "Women should wear a bikini where the top should be a tight-fitting sports bra with deep openings at the arms. The bottom must not be more than ten centimeters on the sides."‪ ^ (#cite_ref-5) Handball team fined for bikini bottom refusal (https://thenewdaily.com.au/sport/other-sports/2021/07/21/norway-handball-bikini-fine/) ^ (#cite_ref-6) The undress code that’s the height of teen fashion (http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/news/world/us_and_americas/article619936.ece) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20110523220414/http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/news/world/us_and_americas/article619936.ece) 2011-05-23 at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) From The Times August 26, 2006. v t e Clothing (/wiki/Clothing) History (/wiki/History_of_clothing_and_textiles) Industry (/wiki/Clothing_industry) Technology (/wiki/Clothing_technology) Terminology (/wiki/Clothing_terminology) Timeline (/wiki/Timeline_of_clothing_and_textiles_technology) Headwear (/wiki/Headgear) Beret (/wiki/Beret) Cap (/wiki/Cap) baseball (/wiki/Baseball_cap) flat (/wiki/Flat_cap) knit (/wiki/Knit_cap) Hat (/wiki/Hat) boater (/wiki/Boater) bowler (/wiki/Bowler_hat) fedora (/wiki/Fedora) homburg (/wiki/Homburg_hat) top (/wiki/Top_hat) Helmet (/wiki/Helmet) Hood (/wiki/Hood_(headgear)) Kerchief (/wiki/Kerchief) Mask (/wiki/Mask) Turban (/wiki/Turban) Veil (/wiki/Veil) Neckwear (/wiki/Neckwear) Bands (/wiki/Bands_(neckwear)) Choker (/wiki/Choker) Clerical collar (/wiki/Clerical_collar) Lavallière (/wiki/Pussy_bow) Neckerchief (/wiki/Neckerchief) Neck gaiter (/wiki/Neck_gaiter) Necktie (/wiki/Necktie) ascot (/wiki/Ascot_tie) bolo (/wiki/Bolo_tie) bow (/wiki/Bow_tie) kipper (/wiki/Kipper_tie) school (/wiki/School_tie) stock (/wiki/Stock_tie) Scarf (/wiki/Scarf) Tippet (/wiki/Tippet) Tops (/wiki/Top_(clothing)) Blouse (/wiki/Blouse) cache-cœur (/wiki/Cache-c%C5%93ur) crop top (/wiki/Crop_top) halterneck (/wiki/Halterneck) tube top (/wiki/Tube_top) Cycling (/wiki/Cycling_jersey) Kurta (/wiki/Kurta) Mantle (/wiki/Mantle_(clothing)) Shirt (/wiki/Shirt) dress (/wiki/Dress_shirt) Henley (/wiki/Henley_shirt) polo (/wiki/Polo_shirt) sleeveless (/wiki/Sleeveless_shirt) T (/wiki/T-shirt) Sweater (/wiki/Sweater) cardigan (/wiki/Cardigan_(sweater)) guernsey (/wiki/Guernsey_(clothing)) hoodie (/wiki/Hoodie) jersey (/wiki/Jersey_(clothing)) polo neck (/wiki/Polo_neck) shrug (/wiki/Shrug_(clothing)) sweater vest (/wiki/Sweater_vest) twinset (/wiki/Twinset) Waistcoat (/wiki/Waistcoat) Trousers (/wiki/Trousers) Bell-bottoms (/wiki/Bell-bottoms) Bondage (/wiki/Bondage_pants) Capri (/wiki/Capri_pants) Cargo (/wiki/Cargo_pants) Chaps (/wiki/Chaps) Formal (/wiki/Formal_trousers) Go-to-hell (/wiki/Go-to-hell_pants) High water (/wiki/High-rise_(fashion)) Lowrise (/wiki/Low-rise_(fashion)) Jeans (/wiki/Jeans) Jodhpurs (/wiki/Jodhpurs) Overalls (/wiki/Overalls) Palazzo (/wiki/Palazzo_pants) Parachute (/wiki/Parachute_pants) Pedal pushers (/wiki/Pedal_pushers) Phat (/wiki/Phat_pants) Shorts (/wiki/Shorts) Bermuda (/wiki/Bermuda_shorts) dycling (/wiki/Cycling_shorts) dolphin (/wiki/Dolphin_shorts) gym 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Italian luxury brand For other uses, see Loro Piana (surname) (/wiki/Loro_Piana_(surname)) . Loro Piana Company type Private Industry Textiles (/wiki/Textile_industry) Founded 1924 ; 100 years ago ( 1924 ) Quarona (/wiki/Quarona) , Italy Founder Pietro Loro Piana (/wiki/Pietro_Loro_Piana) Headquarters Milan (/wiki/Milan) , Italy Area served Worldwide Key people Damien Bertrand (/w/index.php?title=Damien_Bertrand&action=edit&redlink=1) (CEO) Owner LVMH (/wiki/LVMH) Website www (http://www.LoroPiana.com) .loropiana (http://www.LoroPiana.com) .com (http://www.LoroPiana.com) Loro Piana is an Italian company specialising in clothing and textile products, claiming to be the world's largest cashmere manufacturer. [1] (#cite_note-wwd.com-1) It was founded in 1924 and is owned by French multinational holding and conglomerate LVMH (/wiki/LVMH) . The company has three divisions: the textile division produces high quality textiles from cashmere (/wiki/Cashmere_wool) , vicuña wool (/wiki/Vicu%C3%B1a_wool) , linen (/wiki/Linen) , and merino wool (/wiki/Wool) ; the fashion luxury goods division produces menswear, womenswear, shoes and accessories; and the interior division produces interior products. History [ edit ] Loro Piana fashion house symbol at a luxury store in Waikiki, Honolulu, Hawaii, US Originally from Trivero (/wiki/Trivero) , the Loro Piana family started as merchants of wool (/wiki/Wool) at the beginning of the 19th century. In the second half of this century, the family moved its activity to Valsesia (/wiki/Valsesia) and founded the wool spinning mill Fratelli Lora e Compagnia, followed by the wool spinning mill Zignone & C. in Quarona at the beginning of the 20th century. In 1924, the engineer Pietro Loro Piana founded the company Loro Piana & C. in Quarona. After taking the lead of the company in the 1960s, Franco Loro Piana, grandson of Pietro, started to export high quality fabrics to Europe, America and Japan. [2] (#cite_note-nytimes.com-2) In the 1970s, the company was directed by Franco's sons, Sergio and Pier Luigi (/wiki/Pier_Luigi_Loro_Piana) , whose focus was on top quality fabrics development, including cashmere and extra fine wools. Sergio and Pier's research gave birth to the Tasmanian fabric. In the 1980s, Sergio and Pier Luigi Loro Piana started to diversify the business, therefore launching their first ready to wear collection and creating the luxury goods division. The interior division was launched in 2006. [3] (#cite_note-3) In 2013, LVMH (/wiki/LVMH) Group acquired an 80% stake in Loro Piana, becoming the major shareholder. [4] (#cite_note-lexpansion.lexpress.fr-4) Sergio Loro Piana died the same year. [5] (#cite_note-Sergio_Loro_Piana_Dead_at_65-5) In 2017, LVMH acquired another 5% stake in the company. [6] (#cite_note-lastampa-6) [7] (#cite_note-diariodelweb-7) In November 2021, Damien Bertrand was appointed as CEO of the brand. Since 2022, Loro Piana has established its headquarters at Cortile della Seta in Milan's Brera (/wiki/Brera_(district_of_Milan)) district. [2] (#cite_note-nytimes.com-2) Stores [ edit ] A Loro Piana store in Madrid As of July 2022, Loro Piana distributes its products in Europe, North America, the Middle East, China, South Korea, Indonesia, and Japan. It has a total of 136 stores that are directly operated and has online stores on Shopee and Tokopedia in Indonesia. [1] (#cite_note-wwd.com-1) [8] (#cite_note-stores-8) Operations [ edit ] Loro Piana is vertically integrated (/wiki/Vertical_integration) , and it handles all stages of production, from the harvesting of natural fibres to the delivery of the finished product to stores. [1] (#cite_note-wwd.com-1) In 2012, turnover reached €700 million and net income (/wiki/Net_income) represented 20% of sales. [4] (#cite_note-lexpansion.lexpress.fr-4) In December 2013, LVMH (/wiki/LVMH) announced that Antoine Arnault (/wiki/Antoine_Arnault) would become chairman of Loro Piana. [9] (#cite_note-Younger_Arnaults_Gaining_Greater_Power_at_LVMH-9) The company achieved 1 billion euro of sales in 2019. [1] (#cite_note-wwd.com-1) Criticism [ edit ] In March 2024, a bloomberg news (/wiki/Bloomberg_News) documentary short on youtube (/wiki/YouTube) sharply criticised Loro Piana’s company practices in terms of the money paid to the communities that gather vicuña (/wiki/Vicu%C3%B1a) wool. [10] (#cite_note-Bloomberg_Original-10) As the top global buyer of vicuna fibre, Loro Piana's secretive supply chain highlights the use of cheap labour among Peru's least fortunate to make some of the most expensive clothing in the world. See also [ edit ] Ermenegildo Zegna (/wiki/Ermenegildo_Zegna_Group) Vitale Barberis Canonico (/wiki/Vitale_Barberis_Canonico) Holland & Sherry (/wiki/Holland_%26_Sherry) Dormeuil (/wiki/Dormeuil) Brunello Cucinelli (/wiki/Brunello_Cucinelli_(company)) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c d Miles Socha and Luisa Zargani (28 October 2021), Loro Piana Enters New Era With New CEO (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/loro-piana-new-ceo-damien-bertrand-1234986321/) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ Jump up to: a b Laura May Todd (14 April 2022), Loro Piana Gets a New Headquarters and Store (https://www.nytimes.com/2022/04/14/t-magazine/loro-piana-store-milan.html) T (/wiki/T_(magazine)) . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Sanderson, Rachel (2020-01-16). "How Loro Piana serves 'nomadic elite' with €7,000 cashmere coats" (https://www.ft.com/content/7aa55f62-3782-11ea-a6d3-9a26f8c3cba4) . www.ft.com . Archived (https://ghostarchive.org/archive/S85LA) from the original on 2022-12-11 . Retrieved 9 September 2020 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Prêt à porter: LVMH s'offre 80% du groupe Loro Piana – L'Express avec L'Expansion" (https://web.archive.org/web/20130714010503/http://lexpansion.lexpress.fr/entreprise/lvmh-s-offre-le-groupe-de-pret-a-porter-de-luxe-italien-loro-piana_393553.html) . lexpansion.lexpress.fr. Archived from the original (http://lexpansion.lexpress.fr/entreprise/lvmh-s-offre-le-groupe-de-pret-a-porter-de-luxe-italien-loro-piana_393553.html) on 14 July 2013 . Retrieved 9 June 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-Sergio_Loro_Piana_Dead_at_65_5-0) Zargani, Luisa (20 December 2013). "Sergio Loro Piana Dead at 65" (http://www.wwd.com/markets-news/people/sergio-loro-piana-dead-at-65-7322380?src=n/newsAlert/20131220-2) . WWD . Retrieved 20 December 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-lastampa_6-0) "Loro Piana, la famiglia cede un altro 5% di quote" (http://www.lastampa.it/2017/03/21/edizioni/biella/loro-piana-la-famiglia-cede-un-altro-di-quote-KPGeTX4yIeaukXWkKMdbVI/pagina.html) . La Stampa . 21 March 2017 . Retrieved 24 August 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-diariodelweb_7-0) "Loro Piana, un altro 5% ai francesi – Diario di Biella" (https://biella.diariodelweb.it/biella/articolo/?nid=20170324_408124) . biella.diariodelweb.it . 24 March 2017 . Retrieved 24 August 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-stores_8-0) "Loro Piana opens second New York store" (https://us.fashionnetwork.com/news/Loro-piana-opens-second-new-york-store,1267109.html) . Retrieved 16 February 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-Younger_Arnaults_Gaining_Greater_Power_at_LVMH_9-0) Miles Socha (5 December 2013). "Younger Arnaults Gaining Greater Power at LVMH" (http://www.wwd.com/business-news/human-resources/antoine-arnault-named-chairman-of-loro-piana-7300460?module=hp-topstories) . WWD . Retrieved 8 December 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-Bloomberg_Original_10-0) Bloomberg Original (14 March 2024), The Brutal Cost of Quiet Luxury (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=W-SrWHEUn8o) . Retrieved 6 April 2024. External links [ edit ] Media related to Loro Piana (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Loro_Piana) at Wikimedia Commons Fashionwelike.com – Interview with Sergio and Pier Luigi Loro Piana (http://www.fashionwelike.com/interview-sergio-and-pier-luigi-loro-piana/) v t e LVMH (/wiki/LVMH) Board of directors Albert Frère (/wiki/Albert_Fr%C3%A8re) Antoine Arnault (/wiki/Antoine_Arnault) Bernadette Chirac (/wiki/Bernadette_Chirac) Bernard Arnault (/wiki/Bernard_Arnault) Charles Powell (/wiki/Charles_Powell,_Baron_Powell_of_Bayswater) Charles de Croisset (/wiki/Charles_de_Croisset) Delphine Arnault (/wiki/Delphine_Arnault) Diego Della Valle (/wiki/Diego_Della_Valle) Felix Rohatyn (/wiki/Felix_Rohatyn) Gilles Hennessy Hubert Védrine (/wiki/Hubert_V%C3%A9drine) Yves-Thibault de Silguy (/wiki/Yves-Thibault_de_Silguy) Fashion and leather goods Berluti (/wiki/Berluti) Celine (/wiki/Celine_(brand)) Christian Dior (/wiki/Dior) Emilio Pucci (/wiki/Emilio_Pucci) Fendi (/wiki/Fendi) Givenchy (/wiki/Givenchy) JW Anderson (/wiki/JW_Anderson) Kenzo (/wiki/Kenzo_(brand)) Loewe (/wiki/Loewe_(fashion_brand)) Loro Piana Louis Vuitton (/wiki/Louis_Vuitton) Marc Jacobs (/wiki/Marc_Jacobs) Moynat (/wiki/Moynat) Off-White (/wiki/Off-White_(company)) Patou (/wiki/Patou) Phoebe Philo (/wiki/Phoebe_Philo) Rimowa (/wiki/Rimowa) Stella McCartney (/wiki/Stella_McCartney) Perfumes and cosmetics Acqua di Parma (/wiki/Acqua_di_Parma) Benefit Cosmetics (/wiki/Benefit_Cosmetics) Cha Ling Fenty Beauty (/wiki/Fenty_Beauty) by Rihanna (/wiki/Rihanna) Fresh Parfums Givenchy (/wiki/Parfums_Givenchy) Guerlain (/wiki/Guerlain) Kenzo Parfums (/wiki/Kenzo_(brand)) KVD Vegan Beauty Maison Francis Kurkdjian (/wiki/Francis_Kurkdjian) Make Up For Ever (/wiki/Make_Up_For_Ever) Marc Jacobs Beauty (/wiki/Marc_Jacobs) Officine Universelle Buly (/wiki/Officine_Universelle_Buly) Ole Henriksen (/wiki/Ole_Henriksen) Parfums Christian Dior (/wiki/Parfums_Christian_Dior) Perfumes Loewe (/wiki/Loewe_(fashion_brand)) STELLA by Stella McCartney (/wiki/Stella_McCartney) Selective retailing DFS (/wiki/DFS_Group) La Grande Epicerie (/wiki/Le_Bon_March%C3%A9) La Samaritaine (/wiki/La_Samaritaine) Le Bon Marché (/wiki/Le_Bon_March%C3%A9) Sephora (/wiki/Sephora) Starboard Cruise Services Watches and jewelry Bulgari (/wiki/Bulgari) Chaumet (/wiki/Chaumet) Daniel Roth (/wiki/Daniel_Roth_(watchmakers)) Fred (/wiki/Fred_Joaillier) Hublot (/wiki/Hublot) Repossi (/wiki/Repossi) TAG Heuer (/wiki/TAG_Heuer) Tiffany & Co. 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Australian sportswear company BLK Sport Formerly KooGa Australia (1999–2011) Company type Private (/wiki/Privately_held_company) Industry Textile (/wiki/Textile_manufacturing) Founded 1999 ; 25 years ago ( 1999 ) [1] (#cite_note-introd-1) Headquarters Helensvale, Queensland (/wiki/Helensvale,_Queensland) , Australia (/wiki/Australia) Area served Worldwide Products Accessories (/wiki/Fashion_accessory) , apparel (/wiki/Apparel) , sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear) Parent (/wiki/Parent_company) Esperança Timor Oan [2] (#cite_note-cons-2) Website blksport.com (https://blksport.com/) BLK (initials for " B eyond L imits K nown") is an Australian sporting goods (/wiki/Sports_equipment) manufacturing company (/wiki/Manufacturing_company) which was established in 1999 in the city of Gold Coast (/wiki/Gold_Coast,_Queensland) in Queensland (/wiki/Queensland) . The overall but now heavily transitioned company has origins as far back as 1999, but evolved from the Australian arm of the brand KooGa. Australian founder Kim Brant began to re-brand KooGa Australia to 'BLK' in 2011. Kooga New Zealand was independent and had no ownership connection with Kooga Australia. [1] (#cite_note-introd-1) The parent company of BLK, World Rugby Specialists, was placed into external receivership in November 2016. In January 2017, BLK was acquired by a consortium of Fijian (/wiki/Fiji) and East Timor (/wiki/East_Timor) investors (led by oil and energy company Esperança Timor Oan), [2] (#cite_note-cons-2) amid BLK's financial issues. [3] (#cite_note-3) [4] (#cite_note-4) Sponsorships [ edit ] BLK is the official supplier and sponsor of sports teams, players, associations and events, including: [5] (#cite_note-5) Rugby union [ edit ] National teams [ edit ] Kenya (/wiki/Kenya_Rugby_Union) Namibia (/wiki/Namibia_national_rugby_union_team) Club teams [ edit ] Stormers (/wiki/Stormers) Western Province (/wiki/Western_Province_(rugby_team)) Cheetahs (/wiki/Cheetahs_(rugby_union)) Free State Cheetahs (/wiki/Free_State_Cheetahs) London Irish (/wiki/London_Irish) Rugby League [ edit ] Club Teams [ edit ] Toronto Wolfpack (/wiki/Toronto_Wolfpack) See also [ edit ] Companies portal (/wiki/Portal:Companies) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Australia portal (/wiki/Portal:Australia) List of fitness wear brands (/wiki/List_of_fitness_wear_brands) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b KooGa would like to introduce BLK (https://touchfootball.com.au/kooga-would-like-to-introduce-blk/) on Touch Football site, 12 Nov 2013 ^ Jump up to: a b Consortium of private investors buys troubled sportswear brand BLK (https://www.smartcompany.com.au/finance/consortium-private-investors-buys-troubled-sportswear-brand-blk/) by Dominic Powell on Smart Company, 20 Jan 2017 ^ (#cite_ref-3) Uniform strife as supplier goes into receivership (http://www.afl.com.au/news/2016-11-16/uniform-strife-as-supplier-goes-into-receivership) by Matt Thompson] on AFL website, Nov 16, 2016 ^ (#cite_ref-4) Ailing sports firm BLK sold (http://www.theaustralian.com.au/business/struggling-sportswear-firm-blk-sold-to-timor-fiji-investors/news-story/dd0d2bff608ce60d937c565ebda17a4d) on The Australian ^ (#cite_ref-5) Fan Gear (https://blksport.com/pro-range) on BLK website, retrieved 25 Sep 2019 External links [ edit ] Official website (https://blksport.com/) v t e Sports equipment (/wiki/Sports_equipment) brands This list includes companies that produce sports equipment. List by sport include only current products manufactured Multi-sports Acerbis (/wiki/Acerbis) Adidas (/wiki/Adidas) Admiral (/wiki/Admiral_Sportswear) AFA (/wiki/AFA_Sports) Alpine Pro (/wiki/Alpine_Pro) Anta (/wiki/Anta_Sports) Arc'teryx (/wiki/Arc%27teryx) Asics (/wiki/Asics) Atletica (/wiki/Atletica) BLK Burley-Sekem (/wiki/Burley-Sekem) Castore (/wiki/Castore) Champion (/wiki/Champion_(sportswear)) Charly (/wiki/Charly_(brand)) Classic (/wiki/Classic_Sportswear) Descente (/wiki/Descente) Diadora (/wiki/Diadora) ERKE (/wiki/ERKE) Erreà (/wiki/Erre%C3%A0) EvoShield (/wiki/EvoShield) FBT (/wiki/FBT_(company)) Fila (/wiki/Fila) Fischer (/wiki/Fischer_(company)) 4F (/wiki/4F_(company)) Garcis (/wiki/Garcis) Givova (/wiki/Givova) Grand Sport (/wiki/Grand_Sport_Group) Grays (/wiki/Grays_International) Head (/wiki/Head_(company)) Hummel (/wiki/Hummel_International) ISC (/wiki/ISC_(sportswear)) Jako (/wiki/Jako) Joma (/wiki/Joma) Kappa (/wiki/Kappa_(brand)) Kelme (/wiki/Kelme_(company)) Kookaburra (/wiki/Kookaburra_Sport) Le Coq Sportif (/wiki/Le_Coq_Sportif) Legea (/wiki/Legea) Li-Ning (/wiki/Li-Ning) Lotto (/wiki/Lotto_Sport_Italia) Luanvi (/wiki/Luanvi) Lululemon (/wiki/Lululemon_Athletica) Macron (/wiki/Macron_(sportswear)) Majestic (/wiki/Majestic_Athletic) Mikasa (/wiki/Mikasa_Sports) Mitchell & Ness (/wiki/Mitchell_%26_Ness) Mitre (/wiki/Mitre_Sports_International) Mizuno (/wiki/Mizuno_Corporation) Molten (/wiki/Molten_Corporation) Oakley (/wiki/Oakley,_Inc.) 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Italian fashion house Moschino S.p.A. Moschino storefront in London (/wiki/London) Company type Subsidiary (/wiki/Subsidiary) Industry Fashion (/wiki/Fashion_industry) Founded 1983 ; 41 years ago ( 1983 ) in Milan (/wiki/Milan) , Italy Founder Franco Moschino (/wiki/Franco_Moschino) Headquarters Via S. Gregorio, 28 20124 Milan Italy 45°28′49″N 9°12′12″E  /  45.48020°N 9.20328°E  / 45.48020; 9.20328 Number of locations 150+ boutiques Area served Worldwide Key people Stefano Secchi ( CEO (/wiki/CEO) ) Products Ready-to-wear handbags footwear fashion accessories fragrances Brands Moschino Boutique Moschino Love Moschino Revenue €215.4 million (2020) [1] (#cite_note-wwd.com2-1) Parent (/wiki/Parent_company) Aeffe S.p.A. Website moschino.com (http://www.moschino.com/) Moschino ( Italian pronunciation: [moˈskiːno] (/wiki/Help:IPA/Italian) ) is an Italian luxury (/wiki/Luxury_goods) fashion house (/wiki/Fashion_house) founded in 1983 by Franco Moschino (/wiki/Franco_Moschino) in Milan (/wiki/Milan) [2] (#cite_note-:2-2) known for over-the-top, campy (/wiki/Camp_(style)) designs. [3] (#cite_note-3) The company specializes in ready-to-wear, handbags, and fashion accessories. [2] (#cite_note-:2-2) Moschino's creative director is Adrian Appiolaza. [4] (#cite_note-4) [5] (#cite_note-5) History [ edit ] Founding and 1990s [ edit ] Franco Moschino was born on 27 February 1950 and raised in Abbiategrasso (/wiki/Abbiategrasso) , Italy. [6] (#cite_note-Franco_Moschino_Dies_in_Italy-6) Moschino studied at Accademia di Belle in Milan from 1968 to 1971, at the dismay of his father, who hoped Franco would continue his family's work in the iron industry. While a student, Franco freelanced designs and illustrations for magazines and fashion houses. Upon graduation, Franco worked as a design sketcher for Versace (/wiki/Versace) from 1971 to 1977 and designed for Italian fashion house Cadette until 1982. [7] (#cite_note-:1-7) The following year, Franco created "Moschino Couture!", [8] (#cite_note-8) owned by Moonshadow, its Milan-based holding company. [6] (#cite_note-Franco_Moschino_Dies_in_Italy-6) Franco gained a reputation for implementing innovative, colorful, and witty designs into his apparel, [7] (#cite_note-:1-7) such incorporating a Roy Lichtenstein (/wiki/Roy_Lichtenstein) pop art (/wiki/Pop_art) piece in a suit [9] (#cite_note-Talon-9) and designing a t-shirt featuring a TV tuned to “Channel No. 5" (sparking a lawsuit by Chanel (/wiki/Chanel) due to the reference to its Chanel No. 5 (/wiki/Chanel_No._5) perfume). [6] (#cite_note-Franco_Moschino_Dies_in_Italy-6) Suit featuring Roy Lichtenstein's (/wiki/Roy_Lichtenstein) Good morning…darling! from Moschino Cheap and Chic SS91 [9] (#cite_note-Talon-9) By the late 1980s, Moschino's popularity in Europe had begun to replicate in the United States, with US sales accounting for 15 to 20 percent of business. [6] (#cite_note-Franco_Moschino_Dies_in_Italy-6) By the 1990s, Franco became known for his social awareness campaigns and his criticism of the fashion industry. [7] (#cite_note-:1-7) In 1994, Franco expressed desire to develop an ecological line “Nature Friendly Garment”, [6] (#cite_note-Franco_Moschino_Dies_in_Italy-6) however Franco died later that year from HIV/AIDS (/wiki/HIV/AIDS) -related causes. [10] (#cite_note-:0-10) In recent times, Moschino has made an effort to combat the HIV/AIDS epidemic (/wiki/HIV/AIDS_epidemic) through a partnership with Product Red (/wiki/Product_Red) and Nickelodeon (/wiki/Nickelodeon) , creating a Moschino x SpongeBob (/wiki/SpongeBob_SquarePants) collection, bringing awareness to HIV/AIDS and fundraising by donating the collection's proceeds to Project Red. [11] (#cite_note-11) Rossella Jardini, 1994–2013 [ edit ] After Franco's death in 1994, his friend Rossella Jardini (/wiki/Rossella_Jardini) became the brand's creative director. Responsible for the brand's image and style, Jardini's whimsical designs fit in nicely with the brand's established eccentricity. [10] (#cite_note-:0-10) While Jardini was creative director, Moschino created outfits and accessories for artists Madonna (/wiki/Madonna_(entertainer)) [12] (#cite_note-12) and Lady Gaga (/wiki/Lady_Gaga) [13] (#cite_note-13) for their world tours and created the opening ceremony outfits for the 2006 Winter Olympics (/wiki/2006_Winter_Olympics) . [14] (#cite_note-14) In 2009, Moschino opened its hotel concept, Maison Moschino. [15] (#cite_note-15) In 1999, Moschino joined Aeffe S.p.A., an Italian group. [16] (#cite_note-16) With the F/W 2008–2009 pre-collection, Moschino Jeans changed its name to Love Moschino. [17] (#cite_note-17) Jeremy Scott, 2013–2023 [ edit ] McDonald's (/wiki/McDonald%27s) -inspired dress from Moschino Fall 2014 [18] (#cite_note-18) In October 2013, Jeremy Scott (/wiki/Jeremy_Scott) became Moschino's creative director, debuting his first collection in Fall 2014. [19] (#cite_note-Moschino_Names_Jeremy_Scott_Creative_Director2-19) Starting in 2014 under Scott's direction, Moschino Cheap and Chic was consolidated into a new women's line—"Boutique Moschino"—established to target a wider array of costumers, with a price-point about 40 percent lower than Moschino's mainline. [20] (#cite_note-20) Madonna in Moschino for her Rebel Heart Tour (/wiki/Rebel_Heart_Tour) [21] (#cite_note-Branch-21) In 2014, Scott designed a smiley face themed outfit for Katy Perry (/wiki/Katy_Perry) 's world tour [22] (#cite_note-22) and in 2015 designed a black one-piece outfit with Swarovski crystals for Madonna's world tour. [21] (#cite_note-Branch-21) In April 2018, Moschino announced a collaboration with H&M (/wiki/H%26M) . [23] (#cite_note-23) The following year, Moschino collaborated with EA Games (/wiki/Electronic_Arts) for a Sims 4 (/wiki/The_Sims_4) collection. The collection featured clothing with pixelated illusions inspired by the computer game. [24] (#cite_note-24) With the 2019 Met Gala (/wiki/Met_Gala) 's theme Camp (/wiki/Camp_(style)) : Notes on Fashion, Katy Perry wore a gown that looked like a chandelier, created by Moschino, and Kacey Musgraves (/wiki/Kacey_Musgraves) arrived appearing like a life-size Barbie (/wiki/Barbie) , also by Moschino. [25] (#cite_note-25) In 2021, Aeffe S.p.A. gained full control of Moschino, by acquiring the remaining 30 percent stake it did not originally own, at the price of 66.6 million euros ($78.51 million). [26] (#cite_note-26) [1] (#cite_note-wwd.com2-1) In March 2023, Scott announced his exit from the creative director position. [27] (#cite_note-27) Davide Renne, 2023 [ edit ] In October 2023, Aeffe announced Davide Renne (/wiki/Davide_Renne) as the new creative director of Moschino, overseeing the women's and men's lines and accessories. He joined Moschino after a 20-year career at Gucci (/wiki/Gucci) . [28] (#cite_note-Paton-28) [29] (#cite_note-29) He assumed the role on 1 November, but died from a suspected heart attack in Milan nine days later, at the age of 46. [28] (#cite_note-Paton-28) Adrian Appiolaza, 2024–present [ edit ] In January 2024, Adrian Appiolaza was appointed as the new creative director of Moschino. [30] (#cite_note-vogue.com-30) Prior to his appointment, Appiolaza worked at Loewe (/wiki/Loewe_(fashion_brand)) for 10 years as womenswear design director under Jonathan Anderson (/wiki/Jonathan_Anderson_(fashion_designer)) . [30] (#cite_note-vogue.com-30) Appiolaza is a graduate of Central Saint Martins (/wiki/Central_Saint_Martins) and has also worked at Chloé (/wiki/Chlo%C3%A9) , Alexander McQueen (/wiki/Alexander_McQueen_(fashion_house)) , and Miu Miu (/wiki/Miu_Miu) . [31] (#cite_note-31) Controversy [ edit ] In a 2015 lawsuit, New York-based graffiti artist Rime claimed the Moschino dress worn by Katy Perry at the 2015 Met Gala (/wiki/Met_Gala) copied his work. [32] (#cite_note-32) The case was settled in 2016. [33] (#cite_note-33) In 2016, Nordstrom (/wiki/Nordstrom) responded to pressure from consumers and pulled Moschino's pill-themed merchandise from its shelves, amid allegations it trivialized the opioid epidemic (/wiki/Opioid_epidemic) . [34] (#cite_note-34) [35] (#cite_note-35) Philanthropy [ edit ] For its fashion show in Milan in September 2023, Moschino showed its solidarity with the Elton John AIDS Foundation (/wiki/Elton_John_AIDS_Foundation) , founded by Elton John (/wiki/Elton_John) , which works to help and support people affected by HIV. [36] (#cite_note-36) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b Luisa Zargani (28 July 2021), Aeffe Takes Full Control of Moschino (https://wwd.com/business-news/mergers-acquisitions/aeffe-takes-full-control-moschino-1234889904/) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ Jump up to: a b Kaybeewrites (30 May 2022). "Fashion History: The history of Moschino" (https://glamsquadmagazine.com/fashion-history-the-history-of-moschino/) . GLAMSQUAD MAGAZINE . Retrieved 18 August 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) McCall, Tyler (24 February 2022). "Jeremy Scott Brings the House Down at Moschino" (https://fashionista.com/2022/02/moschino-fall-2022-collection-review) . Fashionista . Retrieved 25 August 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Moschino's new creative director is Adrian Appiolaza" (https://www.the-spin-off.com/news/stories/The-People-Adrian-Appiolaza-is-Moschinos-new-creative-director-17801) . The Spin Off. 30 January 2024. ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Milan fashion house Moschino taps Adrian Appiolaza as its new creative director" (https://www.independent.co.uk/news/ap-moschino-milan-rome-jeremy-scott-b2487216.html) . The Independent. 30 January 2024. ^ Jump up to: a b c d e Glynis Costin and Sara Gay Forden (20 September 1994), Franco Moschino Dies in Italy (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/franco-moschino-dies-in-italy-1168298/) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ Jump up to: a b c "Obituary: Franco Moschino" (https://www.independent.co.uk/news/people/obituary-franco-moschino-1450166.html) . The Independent . 20 September 1994 . Retrieved 19 August 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "How to Create an Iconic brand – Volume 11: Moschino" (https://theblondesalad.com/en/fashion/moschino-history-iconic/) . The Blonde Salad . 4 September 2018 . Retrieved 19 August 2022 . ^ Jump up to: a b Talon, Kettj (2 May 2019). "Roy Lichtenstein: when Pop Art influences fashion" (https://www.nssmag.com/en/article/18451) . Nss Magazine . Retrieved 19 August 2022 . ^ Jump up to: a b "A fashionable life: Rosella Jardini". (http://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/fashion-articles/fashionable-life-rossella-jardini-0107) Harper's Bazaar ^ (#cite_ref-11) Lockwood, Lisa (7 June 2017). "Nickelodeon, Moschino and (RED) Team Up for SpongeBob" (https://wwd.com/business-news/retail/nickleodeon-moschino-and-red-team-up-for-spongebob-10897574/) . WWD . Retrieved 19 August 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) Bernstein, Jacob (5 August 2008). "Madonna's Costumes for Her Sticky and Sweet Tour" (http://wwd.com/eye/people/madonnas-costumes-for-her-sticky-and-sweet-tour-1703286/) . Women's Wear Daily . Retrieved 4 October 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) Calvert, John (11 September 2012). "This Megalith Reality: Lady Gaga Live" (https://thequietus.com/articles/09992-lady-gaga-live-review) . The Quietus . Retrieved 18 August 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) "Moschino Gets Gold Medal:Brand designs costumes for winter Olympics," Thursday, 19 January 2006. Fashion Week Daily "Fashion Week Daily - Dispatch - Moschino Gets Gold Medal" (https://web.archive.org/web/20090506010214/http://www.fashionweekdaily.com/news/fullstory.sps?iNewsid=296594) . Archived from the original (http://www.fashionweekdaily.com/news/fullstory.sps?iNewsid=296594) on 6 May 2009 . Retrieved 17 October 2007 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) "Head to Milan for Maison Moschino", 31 October 2008. Harper's Bazaar . "| Harper's Bazaar" (https://web.archive.org/web/20150505072712/http://www.harpersbazaar.co.uk/travel/Head-to-Milan-for-Maison-Moschino/buzz) . Archived from the original (http://www.harpersbazaar.co.uk/travel/Head-to-Milan-for-Maison-Moschino/buzz) on 5 May 2015 . Retrieved 24 July 2009 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) Suzy Menkes (/wiki/Suzy_Menkes) (26 October 1999), Aeffe Buys Moschino (https://www.nytimes.com/1999/10/26/style/IHT-aeffe-buys-moschino.html) International Herald Tribune (/wiki/International_Herald_Tribune) . ^ (#cite_ref-17) "LOVE MOSCHINO" (https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/love-moschino) . British Vogue . 31 January 2008 . Retrieved 13 October 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-18) "Moschino Fall 2014 Ready-to-Wear Collection" (https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2014-ready-to-wear/moschino) . Vogue . 20 February 2014 . Retrieved 19 August 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-Moschino_Names_Jeremy_Scott_Creative_Director2_19-0) Zargani, Luisa (29 October 2013). "Moschino Names Jeremy Scott Creative Director" (http://www.wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/moschino-names-jeremy-scott-creative-director-7252976?src=nl/newsAlert/20131028-1) . Women's Wear Daily . Retrieved 29 October 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-20) "Moschino" (https://fashion.mam-e.it/moschino/) . MAM-E srls (in Italian). 14 November 2017 . Retrieved 18 August 2022 . ^ Jump up to: a b Branch, Kate (25 September 2015). "All the Amazing Details of Madonna's Amazing Designer Looks for Her Rebel Heart Tour" (https://www.glamour.com/story/madonna-rebel-heart-tour-fashion) . Glamour . Retrieved 27 August 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-22) Muller, Marissa (30 April 2014). "Katy Perry Adds Moschino To Prismatic World Tour Wardrobe" (https://web.archive.org/web/20220827213932/https://www.mtv.com/news/wz523l/katy-perry-prismatic-tour-wardrobe-moschino) . MTV . Archived from the original (https://www.mtv.com/news/wz523l/katy-perry-prismatic-tour-wardrobe-moschino) on 27 August 2022 . Retrieved 27 August 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-23) Lance, Jennifer. "Moschino Is H&M's Newest Designer Collaboration" (https://www.glamour.com/story/hm-moschino-collab) . Glamour . Retrieved 18 July 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-24) Masters, Johannah (12 April 2019). "Moschino taps 'The Sims' for Coachella's big fashion moment" (https://nypost.com/2019/04/12/moschino-taps-the-sims-for-coachellas-big-fashion-moment/) . New York Post . Retrieved 12 April 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-25) "Photos from Moschino's Most Memorable Met Gala Looks" (https://www.eonline.com/photos/33191/moschinos-most-memorable-met-gala-looks) . E! Online . 13 September 2021 . Retrieved 25 August 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-26) Silvia Recchimuzzi (28 July 2021), Italy's Aeffe raises stake in Moschino to 100% (https://www.reuters.com/article/us-moschino-m-a-aeffe-idUSKBN2EY23N) Reuters (/wiki/Reuters) . ^ (#cite_ref-27) Zargani, Luisa (20 March 2023). "Jeremy Scott Is Exiting Moschino" (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/jeremy-scott-is-exiting-moschino-creative-director-1235588203/) . WWD . Retrieved 20 March 2023 . ^ Jump up to: a b Paton, Elizabeth (10 November 2023). "Davide Renne, Moschino Creative Director, Dead at 46" (https://www.nytimes.com/2023/11/10/fashion/davide-renne-moschino-dead.html) . The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . Retrieved 10 November 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-29) Elisa Anzolin (16 October 2023), Moschino names former Gucci designer Renne creative director (https://www.reuters.com/business/retail-consumer/moschino-names-former-gucci-designer-renne-creative-director-2023-10-16/) Reuters (/wiki/Reuters) . ^ Jump up to: a b "Adrian Appiolaza Is Named the New Creative Director of Moschino" (https://www.vogue.com/article/moschino-adrian-appiolaza-creative-director) . Vogue . 30 January 2024 . Retrieved 30 January 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-31) Zargani, Louisa. "Moschino's New Creative Director Is Former Loewe Designer Adrian Appiolaza" (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/moschino-new-creative-director-former-loewe-designer-adrian-appiolaza-1236156981/) . Womenswear Daily . Fairchild Media . Retrieved 30 January 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-32) David Shortell (10 August 2015), Fashion house Moschino accused of copying graffiti artist's work (https://edition.cnn.com/2015/08/09/us/moschino-lawsuit/index.html) CNN (/wiki/CNN) . ^ (#cite_ref-33) Rosemary Feitelberg (29 June 2016), Street Artist Rime Settles Lawsuit With Jeremy Scott but Not Moschino (https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/street-artist-rime-jeremy-scott-moschino-copyright-lawsuit-settlement-10476118/) Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) . ^ (#cite_ref-34) Phil Wahba (7 October 2016), Nordstrom Pulls Moschino Drug-Themed Clothing Line After Protests (https://fortune.com/2016/10/07/nordstrom-moschino-drug/) Fortune (/wiki/Fortune_(magazine)) . ^ (#cite_ref-35) Kyle Munzenrieder (10 October 16), Nordstrom Pulls Moschino’s Pill-Themed Collection Amidst Controversy (https://www.wmagazine.com/story/nordstrom-pulls-moschinos-pill-themed-collection-amidst-controversy) W (/wiki/W_(magazine)) . ^ (#cite_ref-36) "Un t-shirt Moschino pour soutenir la Fondation Elton John Aids" (https://www.journalduluxe.fr/fr/mode/tshirt-solidaire-moschino-fondation-elton-john-aids) . Journal du Luxe . Retrieved 21 September 2023 . 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Italian menswear brand This article contains content that is written like an advertisement (/wiki/Wikipedia:What_Wikipedia_is_not#Wikipedia_is_not_a_soapbox_or_means_of_promotion) . Please help improve it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Pal_Zileri&action=edit) by removing promotional content (/wiki/Wikipedia:Spam) and inappropriate external links (/wiki/Wikipedia:External_links#Advertising_and_conflicts_of_interest) , and by adding encyclopedic content written from a neutral point of view (/wiki/Wikipedia:Neutral_point_of_view) . ( March 2024 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Pal Zileri Company type Joint Stock Company Industry Fashion Founded 1980, Quinto Vicentino (/wiki/Quinto_Vicentino) ( Vicenza, Italy (/wiki/Vicenza,_Italy) ) Headquarters Via Morimondo 2/3 Milano, Italy (/wiki/Milano,_Italy) Key people Marco Sanavia, CEO Products Men's clothing, accessories, footwear Owner Mayhoola for Investments (/wiki/Mayhoola_for_Investments) LLC Number of employees 800–1000 Website palzileri.com (https://www.palzileri.com) Pal Zileri is an Italian (/wiki/Italian_fashion) luxury menswear brand owned by the sovereign wealth fund of the Qatari royal family (/wiki/Qatari_royal_family) . [1] (#cite_note-Dominique_Muret-1) Pal Zileri is part of Forall Confezioni SpA (/wiki/Societ%C3%A0_per_azioni) . [2] (#cite_note-2) The brand was founded in Quinto Vicentino (/wiki/Quinto_Vicentino) ( Vicenza, Italy (/wiki/Vicenza,_Italy) ) and is now headquartered in Milan (/wiki/Milan) . [3] (#cite_note-:1-3) The brand is distributed via monobrand stores and 500 multibrand retailers worldwide. [4] (#cite_note-:0-4) History [ edit ] Forall Confezioni SpA was founded in 1980 as a company dedicated to the traditional menswear tailoring. [3] (#cite_note-:1-3) [5] (#cite_note-5) In the 1980s, the company created Pal Zileri as the brand to firm its identity and position based on the Italian savoir-faire and artisanal knowledge. Pal Zileri evokes the name of "Palazzo Zileri" an ancient building in the historic centre of Vicenza. [6] (#cite_note-6) Pal Zileri worked with some of the Italian designer labels to produce and distribute their menswear lines. In 2014, Mayhoola Group (/wiki/Mayhoola_for_Investments) acquired the majority stake of the company, and later, in 2016 gained the full ownership. [7] (#cite_note-7) [8] (#cite_note-8) Further marking this new course, in July 2018 Marco Sanavia was appointed as Chief Executive Officer of Forall Confezioni S.p.A., owner of Pal Zileri. [9] (#cite_note-9) Collections [ edit ] Each Pal Zileri garment is made in the factory located in Quinto Vicentino or by the brand's network of selected Italian craftsmen (/wiki/Made_in_Italy) . [10] (#cite_note-10) Pal Zileri line is designed for men and balances the Italian design tradition and innovation in terms of cut, design and materials. The collection is composed by formal menswear, casual and sportswear: suits, jackets, raincoats, overcoats, bomber jackets, pea jackets, slim fit pants, jacquard or printed shirts, leather goods, accessories (bags, backpacks, belts, etc.) and shoes. [11] (#cite_note-11) [12] (#cite_note-12) Made to measure (/wiki/Made_to_measure) is a tailor-made and customized service that matches the italian handcraft tradition with a wide range of models and fabrics. Distribution [ edit ] The brand has mono-brand boutiques in Italy as well as Amman (/wiki/Amman) , Baku (/wiki/Baku) , Lyon (/wiki/Lyon) , Malaga (/wiki/Malaga) , and Mexico City (/wiki/Mexico_City) . [13] (#cite_note-13) It is wholesale distributed in multi-brand stores. From 2019, the opening of Pal Zileri corners by top department stores such as Harrods (/wiki/Harrods) and Selfridges (/wiki/Selfridges) in London, Galeries Lafayette (/wiki/Galeries_Lafayette) and El Corte Ingles (/wiki/El_Corte_Ingles) in Madrid. [14] (#cite_note-14) See also [ edit ] Company portal (/wiki/Portal:Company) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Italy portal (/wiki/Portal:Italy) Italian fashion (/wiki/Italian_fashion) Made in Italy (/wiki/Made_in_Italy) Massimo Alba (/wiki/Massimo_Alba) Lardini (/wiki/Lardini) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-Dominique_Muret_1-0) Dominique Muret, Mayhoola increases Pal Zileri stake to 100% and changes management (http://us.fashionnetwork.com/news/Mayhoola-increases-Pal-Zileri-stake-to-100-and-changes-management,718357.html) July 28, 2016 ^ (#cite_ref-2) Carrera, Martino (30 June 2023). "EXCLUSIVE: Pal Zileri's Manufacturing Assets Get New Owner" (https://wwd.com/business-news/mergers-acquisitions/pal-zileri-manufacturing-assets-new-owner-j6-founder-1235718775/) . WWD . Retrieved 25 July 2023 . ^ Jump up to: a b updated, Dal Chodha last (16 January 2018). "Pal Zileri A/W 2018" (https://www.wallpaper.com/fashion/fashionweeks/womenswear-aw-2018/milan/pal-zileri-aw-2018) . wallpaper.com . Retrieved 25 July 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-:0_4-0) Passeri, Elena (4 November 2019). "Pal Zileri creative director steps down" (https://ww.fashionnetwork.com/news/Pal-zileri-creative-director-steps-down,1154213.html) . FashionNetwork.com . Retrieved 31 March 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Forall, the relaunch of manufacturing has started: "New hires from 2024" (https://www.breakinglatest.news/entertainment/forall-the-relaunch-of-manufacturing-has-started-new-hires-from-2024/) " (https://www.breakinglatest.news/entertainment/forall-the-relaunch-of-manufacturing-has-started-new-hires-from-2024/) . breakinglatest.news . 19 July 2023. ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Forall, il rilancio della manifattura è partito: «Nuove assunzioni dal 2024»" (https://www.ilsole24ore.com/art/forall-rilancio-manifattura-e-partito-nuove-assunzioni-2024-AFOA3CG) . Il Sole 24 ORE (in Italian). 19 July 2023 . Retrieved 25 July 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) WW, FashionNetwork com. "Mayhoola increases Pal Zileri stake to 100% and changes management" (https://ww.fashionnetwork.com/news/mayhoola-increases-pal-zileri-stake-to-100-and-changes-management,718357.html) . FashionNetwork.com . Retrieved 25 July 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "Cavalli suitor Investcorp walks away over high valuation: sources" (https://www.reuters.com/article/us-cavalli-sale-idUSKBN0F21EE20140627) . Reuters . 27 June 2014 . Retrieved 25 July 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) Garner, Stephen (16 July 2018). "Pal Zileri gets new CEO" (https://mr-mag.com/pal-zileri-gets-new-ceo/) . mr-mag.com . Retrieved 25 July 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) basso (4 July 2022). "Pal Zileri: a partner from Vicenza to relaunch production" (https://www.laconceria.it/en/luxury/pal-zileri-a-partner-from-vicenza-to-relaunch-production/) . LaConceria | Il portale dell'area pelle . Retrieved 25 July 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) "Pal Zileri Online Sample Sale" (https://www.chicmi.com/flash/pal-zileri-online-sample-sale-october-2021/) . Chicmi . Retrieved 25 July 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-12) "Pal Zileri: Fall 2018" (https://www.nytimes.com/slideshow/2018/01/15/fashion/runway-mens/pal-zileri-fall-2018.html) . The New York Times . 15 January 2018. ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0362-4331 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0362-4331) . Retrieved 25 July 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) Store locator (https://www.palzileri.com/row/storelocator/) ^ (#cite_ref-14) Sherman, Lauren (11 February 2018). "Mayhoola: Inside the Secretive Qatari Luxury Empire" (https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/luxury/mayhoola-inside-the-secretive-qatari-luxury-empire/) . Retrieved 25 July 2023 . External links [ edit ] Media related to Pal Zileri (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Pal_Zileri) at Wikimedia Commons Official website (http://www.palzileri.com) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6f54559974‐c2962 Cached time: 20240719075518 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.346 seconds Real time usage: 0.472 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1898/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 35949/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 1556/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 12/100 Expensive parser function count: 6/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 49530/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.220/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 7510050/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 435.847 1 -total 33.78% 147.236 1 Template:Reflist 26.70% 116.387 10 Template:Cite_web 19.16% 83.506 1 Template:Infobox_company 16.81% 73.263 1 Template:Infobox 16.25% 70.830 1 Template:Short_description 12.04% 52.463 1 Template:Advert 10.98% 47.846 1 Template:Ambox 9.32% 40.631 2 Template:Pagetype 7.19% 31.359 1 Template:Portal Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:4148070-0!canonical and timestamp 20240719075518 and revision id 1223161776. 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Style of pants This article possibly contains original research (/wiki/Wikipedia:No_original_research) . Please improve it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Phat_pants&action=edit) by verifying (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) the claims made and adding inline citations (/wiki/Wikipedia:Citing_sources#Inline_citations) . Statements consisting only of original research should be removed. ( September 2007 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) This article needs additional citations for verification (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) . Please help improve this article (/wiki/Special:EditPage/Phat_pants) by adding citations to reliable sources (/wiki/Help:Referencing_for_beginners) . Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Find sources: "Phat pants" (https://www.google.com/search?as_eq=wikipedia&q=%22Phat+pants%22) – news (https://www.google.com/search?tbm=nws&q=%22Phat+pants%22+-wikipedia&tbs=ar:1) · newspapers (https://www.google.com/search?&q=%22Phat+pants%22&tbs=bkt:s&tbm=bks) · books (https://www.google.com/search?tbs=bks:1&q=%22Phat+pants%22+-wikipedia) · scholar (https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=%22Phat+pants%22) · JSTOR (https://www.jstor.org/action/doBasicSearch?Query=%22Phat+pants%22&acc=on&wc=on) ( December 2007 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Phat pants , phatties , or phats are a style of pants (/wiki/Pants) that are fitted at the waist, but get increasingly wide down the legs, covering the feet entirely due to their width. Phat pants can be made out of a variety of materials, however denim, faux fur (/wiki/Faux_fur) , and cotton fabric tend to be the most common. High-end customized phats tend to include UV reflective tape decoration to add a glowing effect. Phat pants are notable for being a visual identifier of those within the rave (/wiki/Rave) community. Popular makers of phat pants include Kikwear, UFO, Q-ambient, and JNCO (/wiki/JNCO) . [1] (#cite_note-1) Phat pants originated in 1990. A Melbourne raver who could not wear slim pants due to thick legs started making them to fit her frame. Rose to popularity in early 1990s with Tina Borg, Renegade and continued to grow into candy phat pantz in 1995 within the kandi kid community of ravers. Also called B-pants , the trend regained attention in the wake of the 2010s in the form of snowboard pants. [ citation needed ] See also [ edit ] Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Bell-bottoms (/wiki/Bell-bottoms) Low-rise pants (/wiki/Low-rise_pants) Melbourne Shuffle (/wiki/Melbourne_Shuffle) Wide leg jeans (/wiki/Wide_leg_jeans) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Breen-Burns, Janice (27 August 2005). "Rave reviews" (http://www.theage.com.au/news/fashion/rave-reviews/2005/08/26/1124563029403.html) . The Age (/wiki/The_Age) . External links [ edit ] Media related to Phat pants (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Phat_pants) at Wikimedia Commons Breen-Burns, Janice (27 August 2005). "Rave reviews" (http://www.theage.com.au/news/fashion/rave-reviews/2005/08/26/1124563029403.html) . The Age (/wiki/The_Age) . Klein, Sarah (19 December 2000). "Killer outfits" (http://www.metrotimes.com/editorial/story.asp?id=1059) . Metro Times (/wiki/Metro_Times) . "Talking with Alex Berenson of Kikwear" (https://web.archive.org/web/20131202092927/http://blog.spreaker.com/blog/2013/11/23/talking-with-alex-berenson-of-kikwear) . Spreaker Blog. 23 November 2013. Archived from the original (http://blog.spreaker.com/blog/2013/11/23/talking-with-alex-berenson-of-kikwear) on 2 December 2013 . 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Full-length woman's garment For other uses, see Gown (disambiguation) (/wiki/Gown_(disambiguation)) . American silk and cotton ball gown, circa 1860, Metropolitan Museum of Art (/wiki/Metropolitan_Museum_of_Art) A gown , from the Saxon word (/wiki/Old_English) , gunna , [1] (#cite_note-:1-1) is a usually loose outer garment (/wiki/Garment) from knee-to-full-length worn by people of both sexes in Europe (/wiki/Europe) from the Early Middle Ages (/wiki/Early_Middle_Ages) to the 17th century, and continuing today in certain professions; later, the term gown was applied to any full-length woman's garment consisting of a bodice (/wiki/Bodice) and an attached skirt (/wiki/Skirt) . A long, loosely fitted gown called a Banyan (/wiki/Banyan_(clothing)) was worn by men in the 18th century as an informal coat. The gowns worn today by academics (/wiki/Academic_dress) , judges (/wiki/Judge) , and some clergy (/wiki/Clerical_clothing) derive directly from the everyday garments worn by their medieval predecessors, formalised into a uniform (/wiki/Uniform) in the course of the 16th and 17th centuries. Terminology [ edit ] Part of a series (/wiki/Category:Formal_wear) on Western dress codes (/wiki/Western_dress_codes) and corresponding attires (/wiki/Clothing) Formal (/wiki/Formal_wear) ( full dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) White tie (/wiki/White_tie) Morning dress (/wiki/Morning_dress) Full dress uniform (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) Frock coat (/wiki/Frock_coat) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Ball gown (/wiki/Ball_gown) Semi-formal (/wiki/Semi-formal_wear) ( half dress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) ) Black tie (/wiki/Black_tie) Black lounge suit (/wiki/Black_lounge_suit) Mess dress uniform (/wiki/Mess_dress_uniform) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Informal (/wiki/Informal_wear) ( undress (/wiki/Western_dress_codes#Full_dress,_half_dress,_and_undress) , "dress clothes") Suit (/wiki/Suit) Service dress uniform (/wiki/Service_dress_uniform) Cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) Pantsuit (/wiki/Pantsuit) Casual (/wiki/Casual_wear) (anything not above) Business casual (/wiki/Business_casual) Casual Friday (/wiki/Casual_Friday) Combat uniform (/wiki/Combat_uniform) Smart casual (/wiki/Smart_casual) Workwear (/wiki/Workwear) Streetwear (/wiki/Streetwear) Sportswear (/wiki/Sportswear) known as Sportswear (fashion) (/wiki/Sportswear_(fashion)) and Athleisure (/wiki/Athleisure) Undress (/wiki/Undress_code) Supplementary alternatives Ceremonial dress (/wiki/Ceremonial_dress) law courts (/wiki/Court_dress) royal courts (/wiki/Court_uniform_and_dress_in_the_United_Kingdom) diplomatic (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) academic (/wiki/Academic_dress) , etc. Religious clothing (/wiki/Religious_clothing) cassock (/wiki/Cassock) , habit (/wiki/Religious_habit) , etc. Folk costume (/wiki/Folk_costume) Distinctions Orders (/wiki/Order_(distinction)) medals (/wiki/Medal) , etc. Legend: = Day (before 6 p.m.) = Evening (after 6 p.m.) = Bow tie (/wiki/Bow_tie) colour = Ladies = Gentlemen Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) v t e A modern-day gown refers to several types of garments. It can refer to a dress, especially a formal or fancy dress. [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEPicken1957153-2) [1] (#cite_note-:1-1) It may also refer to a nightgown (/wiki/Nightgown) or a dressing gown (/wiki/Bathrobe) . [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEPicken1957153-2) In academia (/wiki/Academy) , and other traditional areas, such as the legal world, gowns are also worn on various formal or ceremonial occasions. [2] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEPicken1957153-2) History [ edit ] The gunna was worn by Anglo-Saxon (/wiki/Anglo-Saxons) women and consisted of a long, loose outer garment. [1] (#cite_note-:1-1) The gunna was also called a cote, surcoat, or robe. [1] (#cite_note-:1-1) Gowns were worn by students attending early European universities in the 12th and 13th centuries. [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) The gowns, and the hoods that accompanied them, would indicate their status. [3] (#cite_note-:0-3) From the 14th to the 17th centuries, the term "gown" was used to describe any long, loose, robe-like garment. [1] (#cite_note-:1-1) In the 1500s in Italy (/wiki/Italy) , a gown was known as a camora or by regional names in various locations. [4] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEFabretti200823-4) The look of the camora changed over time, starting out with a high waist and low neckline at the beginning of the century and gradually becoming low-waisted and high-necked by the end. [4] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEFabretti200823-4) Italian women also wore an overgown called a vestito or a roba . [5] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEFabretti200825-5) In turn, these might be covered by a robone which was lined with fabrics or furs for warmth. [5] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEFabretti200825-5) By the late 16th century, gowns were no longer in style in Italy except where they were worn to denote a professional station, such as a banker or priest. [6] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEFabretti200872-6) In the 17th century, women's gowns in the American colonies (/wiki/Thirteen_Colonies) included trimming around the neck and down the bodice, or in the case of an open gown, down front edges from hem to neck. [7] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEStaplesShaw2013269-7) Gowns may also have borders of silk, ribbons, and other decorations. [7] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEStaplesShaw2013269-7) Women in the American colonies wore short gowns (/wiki/Bedgown) as working clothing and informal clothing during the 18th century. [8] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEStaplesShaw2013272-8) The gowns were t-shaped and had side godets (/wiki/Godet_(sewing)) for additional volume. [8] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEStaplesShaw2013272-8) [9] (#cite_note-9) See also [ edit ] Banyan (clothing) (/wiki/Banyan_(clothing)) Grand boubou (/wiki/Boubou_(clothing)) , a gown of West Africa (/wiki/West_Africa) Clothing terminology (/wiki/Clothing_terminology) Dress (/wiki/Dress) Frock (/wiki/Frock) List of individual dresses (/wiki/List_of_individual_dresses) Robe (/wiki/Robe) Skirt (/wiki/Skirt) 1550–1600 in fashion (/wiki/1550%E2%80%931600_in_fashion) 1600–1650 in fashion (/wiki/1600%E2%80%931650_in_fashion) Types of gowns [ edit ] Academic dress (/wiki/Academic_dress) ( cap and gown ) Ball gown (/wiki/Ball_gown) Bedgown (/wiki/Bedgown) Bouffant gown (/wiki/Bouffant_gown) Coronation gown (/wiki/Coronation_gown) Evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Hospital gown (/wiki/Hospital_gown) Nightgown (/wiki/Nightgown) [10] (#cite_note-10) Tea gown (/wiki/Tea_gown) Wedding gown (/wiki/Wedding_gown) Sheer fabric (/wiki/Sheer_fabric) Décolletage (/wiki/D%C3%A9colletage) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c d e Wilcox, Ruth Turner (1970). The Dictionary of Costume . London: Batsford. p. 152 (https://archive.org/details/dictionaryofcost0000wilc/page/152) . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0713408561 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Picken 1957 (#CITEREFPicken1957) , p. 153. ^ Jump up to: a b Waxman, Olivia B. (10 May 2017). "The Real Reason Grads Wear a Cap and Gown" (http://time.com/4767679/college-graduate-cap-gown-commencement/) . Time . Retrieved 2018-01-26 . ^ Jump up to: a b Fabretti 2008 (#CITEREFFabretti2008) , p. 23. ^ Jump up to: a b Fabretti 2008 (#CITEREFFabretti2008) , p. 25. ^ (#cite_ref-FOOTNOTEFabretti200872_6-0) Fabretti 2008 (#CITEREFFabretti2008) , p. 72. ^ Jump up to: a b Staples & Shaw 2013 (#CITEREFStaplesShaw2013) , p. 269. ^ Jump up to: a b Staples & Shaw 2013 (#CITEREFStaplesShaw2013) , p. 272. ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Clergy Robes for Women" (https://eclergys.com/collections/clergy-robes-and-cassocks-for-women) . Retrieved 19 January 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "Classic night gowns for men and women" (https://web.archive.org/web/20160424203342/http://morgenkaaben.dk/produkt-kategori/morgenkaaber/) . morgenkaaben.dk . Archived from the original (http://morgenkaaben.dk/produkt-kategori/morgenkaaber/) on 24 April 2016 . Retrieved 15 April 2016 . Wikimedia Commons has media related to Gowns (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Gowns) . Bibliography Arnold, Janet (/wiki/Janet_Arnold) : Patterns of Fashion 2: Englishwomen's Dresses and Their Construction c.1860–1940 , Wace 1966, Macmillan 1972. Revised metric edition, Drama Books 1977. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-89676-027-8 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-89676-027-8) Ashelford, Jane: The Art of Dress: Clothing and Society 1500–1914 , Abrams, 1996. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-8109-6317-5 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-8109-6317-5) Black, J. Anderson and Madge Garland: A History of Fashion , Morrow, 1975. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-688-02893-4 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-688-02893-4) Fabretti, Isabella Campagnol (2008). Condra, Jill (ed.). The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing Through World History: 1501-1800 . Vol. 2. Westport, Connecticut: Greenwood Press. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780313336645 . Kemp, Roger L. "Town and Gown Relations: A Handbook of Best Practices," McFarland and Company, Inc., Publishers, Jefferson, North Carolina, US, and London, England, UK, (2013). ( ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-7864-6399-2 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-0-7864-6399-2) ). Picken, Mary Brooks (1957). The Fashion Dictionary: Fabric, Sewing, and Dress as Expressed in the Language of Fashion . New York: Funk & Wagnalls Company. Staples, Kathleen A.; Shaw, Madelyn (2013). Clothing Through American History: The British Colonial Era . Santa Barbara, California: Greenwood. 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(/wiki/Bow_tie) kipper (/wiki/Kipper_tie) school (/wiki/School_tie) stock (/wiki/Stock_tie) Scarf (/wiki/Scarf) Tippet (/wiki/Tippet) Tops (/wiki/Top_(clothing)) Blouse (/wiki/Blouse) cache-cœur (/wiki/Cache-c%C5%93ur) crop top (/wiki/Crop_top) halterneck (/wiki/Halterneck) tube top (/wiki/Tube_top) Cycling (/wiki/Cycling_jersey) Kurta (/wiki/Kurta) Mantle (/wiki/Mantle_(clothing)) Shirt (/wiki/Shirt) dress (/wiki/Dress_shirt) Henley (/wiki/Henley_shirt) polo (/wiki/Polo_shirt) sleeveless (/wiki/Sleeveless_shirt) T (/wiki/T-shirt) Sweater (/wiki/Sweater) cardigan (/wiki/Cardigan_(sweater)) guernsey (/wiki/Guernsey_(clothing)) hoodie (/wiki/Hoodie) jersey (/wiki/Jersey_(clothing)) polo neck (/wiki/Polo_neck) shrug (/wiki/Shrug_(clothing)) sweater vest (/wiki/Sweater_vest) twinset (/wiki/Twinset) Waistcoat (/wiki/Waistcoat) Trousers (/wiki/Trousers) Bell-bottoms (/wiki/Bell-bottoms) Bondage (/wiki/Bondage_pants) Capri (/wiki/Capri_pants) Cargo (/wiki/Cargo_pants) Chaps (/wiki/Chaps) Formal (/wiki/Formal_trousers) Go-to-hell (/wiki/Go-to-hell_pants) High water (/wiki/High-rise_(fashion)) Lowrise (/wiki/Low-rise_(fashion)) Jeans (/wiki/Jeans) Jodhpurs (/wiki/Jodhpurs) Overalls (/wiki/Overalls) Palazzo (/wiki/Palazzo_pants) Parachute (/wiki/Parachute_pants) Pedal pushers (/wiki/Pedal_pushers) Phat (/wiki/Phat_pants) Shorts (/wiki/Shorts) Bermuda (/wiki/Bermuda_shorts) dycling (/wiki/Cycling_shorts) dolphin (/wiki/Dolphin_shorts) gym (/wiki/Gym_shorts) hotpants (/wiki/Hotpants) running (/wiki/Running_shorts) Slim-fit (/wiki/Slim-fit_pants) Sweatpants (/wiki/Sweatpants) Windpants (/wiki/Windpants) Yoga pants (/wiki/Yoga_pants) Suits (/wiki/Suit) and uniforms (/wiki/Uniform) Ceremonial dress (/wiki/Ceremonial_dress) academic (/wiki/Academic_dress) court (/wiki/Court_dress) diplomatic (/wiki/Diplomatic_uniform) Folk (/wiki/Folk_costume) Jodhpuri (/wiki/Jodhpuri) Jumpsuit (/wiki/Jumpsuit) Military (/wiki/Military_uniform) full (/wiki/Full_dress_uniform) mess (/wiki/Mess_dress_uniform) service (/wiki/Service_dress_uniform) sailor (/wiki/Sailor_suit) combat (/wiki/Combat_uniform) Pantsuit (/wiki/Pantsuit) Religious (/wiki/Religious_clothing) cassock (/wiki/Cassock) clerical (/wiki/Clerical_clothing) vestment (/wiki/Vestment) School (/wiki/School_uniform) Prison (/wiki/Prison_uniform) Workwear (/wiki/Workwear) boilersuit (/wiki/Boilersuit) cleanroom (/wiki/Cleanroom_suit) hazmat (/wiki/Hazmat_suit) space (/wiki/Space_suit) scrubs (/wiki/Scrubs_(clothing)) Dresses (/wiki/Dress) and gowns Formal, semi- formal, informal Backless (/wiki/Backless_dress) Bouffant gown (/wiki/Bouffant_gown) Coatdress (/wiki/Coatdress) Cocktail (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) little black (/wiki/Little_black_dress) Evening (/wiki/Evening_gown) ball gown (/wiki/Ball_gown) debutante (/wiki/Debutante_dress) Plain (/wiki/Plain_dress) Prairie (/wiki/Prairie_dress) Princess line (/wiki/Princess_line) Strapless (/wiki/Strapless_dress) Wedding (/wiki/Wedding_dress) Wrap 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Fashion in the decade 2000–2009 Young women in Portugal with straightened hair and thick makeup, in 2007 The fashion of the 2000s is often described as a global mash up (/wiki/Mashup_(culture)) , [1] (#cite_note-sacurrent-1) where trends saw the fusion of vintage (/wiki/Vintage_clothing) styles, global and ethnic clothing (e.g. boho (/wiki/Boho-chic) ), as well as the fashions (/wiki/Fashion) of numerous music-based subcultures. Hip-hop fashion (/wiki/Hip-hop_fashion) generally was the most popular among young people of both sexes, followed by the retro-inspired indie look (/wiki/Indie_kid) later in the decade. Those usually aged 25 and older adopted a dressy casual style which was popular throughout the decade. Globalization (/wiki/Globalization) also influenced the decade's clothing trends, with the incorporation of Middle Eastern and Asian dress into mainstream European, American, and Australasian fashion. [1] (#cite_note-sacurrent-1) Furthermore, eco-friendly and ethical clothing, such as recycled fashions were prominent in the decade. [1] (#cite_note-sacurrent-1) In the early 2000s, many mid and late 1990s fashions (/wiki/1990s_in_fashion) remained fashionable around the globe, while simultaneously introducing newer trends. The later years of the decade saw a large-scale revival of clothing designs primarily from the 1960s, 1970s, and 1980s. General trends [ edit ] The rise of fast fashion [ edit ] Main article: Fast fashion (/wiki/Fast_fashion) The early to mid-2000s saw a rise in the consumption of fast fashion (/wiki/Fast_fashion) : affordable off-the-peg high street clothing based on the latest high fashion (/wiki/High_fashion) designs. With its low-cost appeal driven by trends straight off the runway, fast fashion was a significant factor in the fashion industry's growth. As affordable clothing became even more important in the entrance to the new age, brands started to develop strategies to keep up with consumers' new spending habits. [2] (#cite_note-idacavage-2) In 1999, department stores such as Macy's (/wiki/Macy%27s) , J.C. Penney (/wiki/J.C._Penney) , Kohl's (/wiki/Kohl%27s) and more had sales totaling $230 billion. In the years that followed, that number began to fall. By the early 2000s, the rise of online retail and in-store fast fashion caused department store sales to dwindle as retailers offered new styles quicker than ever before. [3] (#cite_note-3) Retail giants of the new millennium included H&M (/wiki/H%26M) , Forever 21 (/wiki/Forever_21) , and Zara (/wiki/Zara_(retailer)) . Target (/wiki/Target_Corporation) found major success in collaborating with various fashion designers to create affordable designer pieces, making them available to the average consumer. [4] (#cite_note-4) This trend in fast fashion allowed shoppers to own designer items at lower prices and also allowed the production and public normalization of copycat styles. [5] (#cite_note-5) Designers noticed that their designs were being copied, and many designers began to adapt; in 2004, the retailer H&M, a prominent fast fashion brand, collaborated with fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld (/wiki/Karl_Lagerfeld) to introduce a one-time collection that proved to be a huge success, as women flocked to H&M stores to own a piece of the designer's 30 selections available in the collection. [6] (#cite_note-6) Stores such as Wet Seal (/wiki/Wet_Seal) and American Apparel (/wiki/American_Apparel) are said to be "American precursors to the fast fashion empire". [2] (#cite_note-idacavage-2) Ethics [ edit ] The ethics of fast fashion has been the topic of numerous debates and questioning of business practices. Producing fashion at such fast rates involves less than secure worker conditions, and non-livable wages for the laborers. It also involves a lot of waste. Americans throw out 14 million tons of clothing a year, with the help of fast fashion. [7] (#cite_note-7) Retailers like Forever 21 (/wiki/Forever_21) and H&M (/wiki/H%26M) have come under fire, not only for their wasteful fast fashion practices that have grown steadily since the beginning of 2000 but for the involvement of cheap labor (/wiki/Cheap_labor) . The appeal of fast fashion lies in the copying of higher-end brands; however, after something is no longer trendy it is on to the next, leaving clothes to go to waste, and workers to continue to live on unlivable wages. [8] (#cite_note-8) Socio-economics and the logo purse [ edit ] At the same time that fast fashion became able to supply vast quantities of imitation luxury goods, Western income inequalities had risen steadily. [9] (#cite_note-9) [10] (#cite_note-10) [11] (#cite_note-11) To create an image of belonging to a higher income group, people sought real or copied branded "high fashion" items. [12] (#cite_note-:0-12) In haute couture, designers were becoming increasingly inspired by pop culture and street style. These designs could succeed in high fashion because some top percentile earners wanted to present as being less wealthy; to communicate "street cred" or equality ideals. In addition, designer street style enabled the few social climbers that did exist (such as in the entertainment industry), to show that they valued their roots. The tensions of income inequalities and fast fashion therefore led to the blending of street style and haute couture. The designer's logo was seen boldly printed on all types of clothing, particularly items that needed to be replaced less often, such as purses or sunglasses. A logoed purse was a visual unifier, worn by celebrities, models and "middle class" shoppers (who, because of growing income inequalities, earned increasingly less than habitual haute couture customers). Thanks to outlet stores (/wiki/Outlet_store) and plentiful supplies of fast fashion "knock-offs", a logoed purse became available to everyone. For the majority of shoppers, a branded purse was a form of escapism; a unifying factor that let people forget how much money they made, [12] (#cite_note-:0-12) and present themselves as being more financially well-off. As the decade went on, it became increasingly popular to mix designer and fast fashion clothing. In response, a counter-culture of vintage and thrifted clothing (not a new phenomenon, but not yet part of the mainstream) began to re-establish itself in some areas, growing in popularity after the hit of the 2008/9 recession (/wiki/Great_Recession) . [13] (#cite_note-13) Women's fashion [ edit ] This article's tone or style may not reflect the encyclopedic tone (/wiki/Wikipedia:Writing_better_articles#Tone) used on Wikipedia . See Wikipedia's guide to writing better articles (/wiki/Wikipedia:Writing_better_articles#Tone) for suggestions. ( February 2023 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Early 2000s (2000–2002) [ edit ] Aaliyah (/wiki/Aaliyah) wearing a bandana (/wiki/Bandana) and hoop earrings (/wiki/Hoop_earrings) in 2000 Y2K fashion [ edit ] Fashion in the 2000s was profoundly influenced by technology. Around this time, there was a monochromatic futuristic approach to fashion, [14] (#cite_note-TheYearWas2000-14) with metallics, shiny blacks, heavy use of gray, straps, and buckles becoming commonplace. Y2K fashion, as it came to be known, aimed to reflect the sleek appearance of its era's new technology. When the original iPod (/wiki/IPod) was introduced in 2001, the white earbuds, as well as the gadget itself, became something of an accessory for early adopters. [15] (#cite_note-2000sFashionTrends-15) Particular pieces of Y2K clothing included mesh tops, wraparound sunglasses, wireframe rectangle glasses, box-pleated skirts, and handkerchief tops (often in a metallic pattern such as silver or gold for a disco feel). [16] (#cite_note-TooSoon2000-16) Satin skirts, leather skirts, [17] (#cite_note-Holiday2000Fashion-17) concert t-shirts (/wiki/T-shirt) or band merch with rhinestones, [14] (#cite_note-TheYearWas2000-14) sparkling shoes, [18] (#cite_note-Spring2000Fashion-18) halter tops, sequined pants (popularized by Peter Morrissey (/wiki/Peter_Morrissey) ), [19] (#cite_note-2000FashionMuseum-19) and embroidered and sequined tops (inspired by Easton Pearson). [19] (#cite_note-2000FashionMuseum-19) [20] (#cite_note-20) Along with the famous pearl printed black dress cocktail dress (/wiki/Cocktail_dress) by Karen Walker (/wiki/Karen_Walker_(designer)) , which was successful worldwide. [19] (#cite_note-2000FashionMuseum-19) In the year 2000, some examples of the casual women's and girl's fashion trends were oversized sunglasses, mini shoulder handbags/purses, [21] (#cite_note-LookingBack2000-21) aviator sunglasses (/wiki/Ray-Ban_Aviator) , [19] (#cite_note-2000FashionMuseum-19) oversized hoop earrings (/wiki/Hoop_earrings) , [14] (#cite_note-TheYearWas2000-14) jeans worn in various ways [21] (#cite_note-LookingBack2000-21) (such as mid-rise, boot-cut, fabric accents down the sides, fabric accents sewn into the flares, lace-up sides and tie-dye (/wiki/Tie-dye) [18] (#cite_note-Spring2000Fashion-18) ), wedge flip flops, [21] (#cite_note-LookingBack2000-21) hot pants (/wiki/Shorts) , [18] (#cite_note-Spring2000Fashion-18) denim jackets, chunky sweaters (/wiki/Sweater) , pashmina (/wiki/Pashmina) scarves (/wiki/Scarf) , [17] (#cite_note-Holiday2000Fashion-17) Skechers (/wiki/Skechers) , [22] (#cite_note-SkechersEncyclopedia-22) belly shirts (/wiki/Belly_shirt) , and tube tops (/wiki/Tube_top) . Casual chic [ edit ] A woman from the year 2001 showcasing many of the styles of the early 2000s including a halter top, low rise pants, and exposed thong underwear creating a whale tail. In Africa, Europe, North America, East Asia, South America, and Oceania, the early 2000s saw the continuation of many mid and late 1990s fashions (/wiki/1990s_fashion) due to the continued influence of teen pop stars such as Britney Spears (/wiki/Britney_Spears) and Christina Aguilera (/wiki/Christina_Aguilera) , such as the military look, [23] (#cite_note-2002FashionTrends-23) while introducing newer more vaguely dystopian post modern trends. From 2001 onwards, women wore long-sleeved shirts with bell sleeves, cowl-neck tops, crop tops (/wiki/Crop_top) , Burberry (/wiki/Burberry) , hoodies (/wiki/Hoodie) , flare jeans (/wiki/Flare_jeans) , hip-huggers (/wiki/Hip-huggers) , [24] (#cite_note-HipHuggersFashionEncyclopedia-24) low rise pants (/wiki/Low_rise_jeans) , [23] (#cite_note-2002FashionTrends-23) [25] (#cite_note-2000sFashionTrends2-25) white jeans, [26] (#cite_note-2001Spring-26) whale tails (/wiki/Whale_tail) , [27] (#cite_note-ShortLived00sTrends-27) cargo pants (/wiki/Cargo_pants) [28] (#cite_note-CargoPantsHot-28) [29] (#cite_note-2003WrapUp-29) (especially ones made out of silk (/wiki/Silk) , satin (/wiki/Satin) , and velvet (/wiki/Velvet) ) [30] (#cite_note-30) [31] (#cite_note-Okay2003Fashions-31) hip-hop inspired sweatpants, daisy dukes (/wiki/Shorts) , thong (/wiki/Thong) underwear, and solid bright-colored tights. [31] (#cite_note-Okay2003Fashions-31) 9/11 (/wiki/September_11_attacks) and the mortgage crisis of 2008 (/wiki/Subprime_mortgage_crisis) impacted fashion by bringing in a new wave of conservatism (/wiki/Conservatism_in_the_United_States) . This created a rise in denim (/wiki/Denim) , the American fabric of the working person. Jeans (/wiki/Jeans) became acceptable in every situation, from the supermarket to the red carpet. [32] (#cite_note-:1-32) It was a slow shift to conservatism, seen in how jeans started low-rise in reflection of the free-spirited Y2K style and moved through various waistlines and leg widths. As mentioned with the social classes, corporate logos became a form of stability and comfort in fashion. There was a sense of unity in the country because all kinds of people were buying the same brands and sporting the same American companies. [32] (#cite_note-:1-32) Possibly in reaction to the streamlined, futuristic, outer space-themed Y2K styles of the year 2000, distressed denim (/wiki/Denim) became popular in America from 2001 to 2008. Pants became lower waisted and significantly more flared than they were previously, and often featured elaborate embroidery rather than the utilitarian, no-frills style of before. [15] (#cite_note-2000sFashionTrends-15) In the UK, it was popular for women to wear skirts over trousers, floral print shift dresses (/wiki/Shift_dress) , and colors like black, purple and pink. Big, chunky shoes and sandals were popular, with thick wedge heels and imitation leather straps decorated with floral embroidery, [ citation needed ] while previously successful sneaker brands like Skechers (/wiki/Skechers) declined in popularity. [22] (#cite_note-SkechersEncyclopedia-22) First-wave 1980s revival [ edit ] Although the 1980s fashion revival wasn't in full swing until 2001, the first movement started in the late 1990s and continued into the early 2000s. This first wave primarily focused on the early 1980s. Such trends that emerged during this period included denim miniskirts (/wiki/Miniskirts) , ripped "distressed" jeans, denim jackets, tracksuits, [29] (#cite_note-2003WrapUp-29) trench coats (/wiki/Trenchcoat) (often in pleather), puffy jackets (revived by Hip-Hop artists), and preppy (/wiki/Preppy) polo shirts (/wiki/Polo_shirt) with popped collars (/wiki/Popped_collar) . These remained popular until about 2008 when the revival of late 1980s fashions occurred. European and American women and girls wore low-top sneakers, such as Skechers (/wiki/Skechers) , Heelys, Adidas (/wiki/Adidas) shoes, Reebok (/wiki/Reebok) shoes, and Nike, as well as knee-high boots with spiked heels and pointed toes (or conversely, thick low heels and round or square toes). [23] (#cite_note-2002FashionTrends-23) Popular accessories of the early 2000s include white belts, aviator sunglasses, trucker hats (/wiki/Trucker_hat) , hoop earrings, block heeled mary janes (/wiki/Mary_Janes) , [31] (#cite_note-Okay2003Fashions-31) leg warmers (worn with mini skirts), [31] (#cite_note-Okay2003Fashions-31) [33] (#cite_note-33) ugg boots (/wiki/Ugg_boots) , [27] (#cite_note-ShortLived00sTrends-27) flip-flops (/wiki/Flip-flops) , jelly shoes (/wiki/Jelly_shoes) , [34] (#cite_note-Moore-34) lace-up sandals, [26] (#cite_note-2001Spring-26) newsboy caps (/wiki/Newsboy_cap) , ponchos (/wiki/Poncho) , and jelly bracelets (/wiki/Gel_bracelet) . [35] (#cite_note-snopes-35) Sex and the City [ edit ] The American television series Sex and the City (/wiki/Sex_and_the_City) impacted how women cared about fashion and how they shopped. The show depicted women as empowered consumers, each with their own independent styles that shopped based on what they wanted, not what they were told to wear. [36] (#cite_note-36) The main characters became fashion icons, inspiring window displays (/wiki/Display_window) , fashion lines, magazines, and women globally. Carrie Bradshaw (/wiki/Carrie_Bradshaw) , the main character, is credited for making Manolo Blahnik (/wiki/Manolo_Blahnik) a household name from her obsession with the Spanish designer's high-heeled shoes (/wiki/High-heeled_shoe) . [37] (#cite_note-37) Trends inspired by the show include stilettos (/wiki/Stiletto_heel) , designer handbags (with two episodes centered around the latest "It bag"), large fabric flowers, and berets (/wiki/Beret) . [38] (#cite_note-38) Mid 2000s (2003–2006) [ edit ] Model in 2005 wearing low-rise jeans (/wiki/Low-rise_pants) , a newsboy cap (/wiki/Newsboy_cap) , and a belly shirt (/wiki/Belly_shirt) Young woman wearing dress made from African patterned fabric in 2008. It items and 1960s revival [ edit ] Main article: Boho-chic (/wiki/Boho-chic) It items were very popular in the 2000s, particularly the early and middle years. Examples of some highly sought-after It items of the mid-2000s included Kate Spade (/wiki/Kate_Spade) wallets, Prada (/wiki/Prada) sneakers, Christian Dior (/wiki/Christian_Dior) saddle bags, designer-brand jeans (/wiki/Designer_clothing) such as True Religion (/wiki/True_Religion_(clothing_brand)) low-rise boot-cut jeans and 7 for all Mankind (/wiki/7_for_all_Mankind) skinny jeans, Juicy Couture (/wiki/Juicy_Couture) velour tracksuits (/wiki/Tracksuit) , Balenciaga (/wiki/Balenciaga) cargo pants, Von Dutch (/wiki/Von_Dutch) trucker hats (/wiki/Trucker_hat) , and Takashi Murakami (/wiki/Takashi_Murakami) 's collaboration with Louis Vuitton (/wiki/Louis_Vuitton) for their iconic It bag. [39] (#cite_note-39) Popular mid 2000s trends for women were embroidered low-rise jeans (/wiki/Low-rise_jeans) , yoga pants (/wiki/Yoga_pants) , thong (/wiki/Thong) underwear, cowl-neck tops, tube tops (/wiki/Tube_top) , denim jackets, bell-sleeved shirts, jean shorts, crop tops, whale tails, tracksuits, [27] (#cite_note-ShortLived00sTrends-27) cargo pants (/wiki/Cargo_pants) , capri pants (/wiki/Capri_pants) , trench coats, puffy jackets, longer tank tops worn with a main blouse or shirt, infantile dresses, [27] (#cite_note-ShortLived00sTrends-27) 1940s inspired New Look (/wiki/The_New_Look_(style)) dresses and sandals, [40] (#cite_note-40) leggings, 1960s style peacoats (/wiki/Peacoat) , tunics (/wiki/Tunic) [41] (#cite_note-41) worn with wide [42] (#cite_note-42) or thin belts, and " vintage clothing (/wiki/Vintage_clothing) " including hippie (/wiki/Hippie) and Boho (/wiki/Boho-chic) inspired dresses with paisley patterns (/wiki/Paisley_pattern) . Crocs (/wiki/Crocs) were a brief fad for all sexes in the summer of 2006, despite their kitsch (/wiki/Kitsch) connotations, [43] (#cite_note-43) [44] (#cite_note-44) [45] (#cite_note-45) and in 2006 the minidress (/wiki/Miniskirt) made a comeback with the hemlines being unusually short. [46] (#cite_note-46) Introduced in 2005, skinny jeans (/wiki/Skinny_jeans) became popular in 2006. [47] (#cite_note-47) [48] (#cite_note-48) High heeled shoes were replaced with ballet flats (/wiki/Ballet_flats) , Sperry Top-Siders (/wiki/Sperry_Top-Siders) , Converse Chucks (/wiki/Converse_Chucks) , and the Keds (/wiki/Keds) popularized by Mischa Barton (/wiki/Mischa_Barton) . Popular accessories included trucker hats, [27] (#cite_note-ShortLived00sTrends-27) aviator sunglasses (/wiki/Aviator_sunglasses) , small red glass or pearl drop earrings (/wiki/Earring) rather than the large hoop earrings (/wiki/Hoop_earring) of the early 2000s, jelly bracelets (/wiki/Gel_bracelet) , knee-high boots (/wiki/Knee-high_boots) with pointed toes, uggs (/wiki/Uggs) , [27] (#cite_note-ShortLived00sTrends-27) Heelys, platform boots, [49] (#cite_note-49) ballet flats, [50] (#cite_note-50) mary janes (/wiki/Mary_janes) , studded belts, shutter shades (/wiki/Shutter_shades) , crucifixes (/wiki/Crucifix) and rosaries (/wiki/Rosaries) , large silver belt buckles (/wiki/Belt_buckle) with rhinestones (/wiki/Rhinestone) , black nail polish, [51] (#cite_note-51) fairtrade (/wiki/Fairtrade) African bangles (/wiki/Bangle) , Native American (/wiki/Indigenous_peoples_of_the_Americas) beaded jewelry, [52] (#cite_note-52) Indian and Middle Eastern slave bracelets (/wiki/Slave_bracelet) , purity rings (/wiki/Purity_ring) , small leather handbags, small scarves, [53] (#cite_note-53) and simple jewelry made from recycled eco friendly (/wiki/Eco_friendly) materials like hemp (/wiki/Hemp) , wood, sea shells (/wiki/Sea_shell) , glass, seeds, and white metal. Military influences [ edit ] From 2005 until the end of the decade, more elaborate military inspired clothing became a unisex [54] (#cite_note-54) trend in Britain. Due to the popularity of the Pirates of the Caribbean (/wiki/Pirates_of_the_Caribbean) films, and a resurgence of interest in 1980s fashion (/wiki/1980s_fashion) , teen and college age women frequently wore cavalier boots (/wiki/Cavalier_boots) , [55] (#cite_note-55) Greek fisherman's caps (/wiki/Greek_fisherman%27s_cap) , jewelry with anchor (/wiki/Anchor) motifs, leather look drainpipe trousers (/wiki/Drainpipe_trousers) , frilly satin poet shirts (/wiki/Poet_shirt) , sashes (/wiki/Sash) , harem pants (/wiki/Harem_pants) , braided hussar jackets (/wiki/Hussar_jacket) , and dress uniforms (/wiki/Dress_uniform) with epaulets (/wiki/Epaulets) inspired by female pop stars (/wiki/Celebrity) , British indie/garage rock band The Libertines (/wiki/The_Libertines) and MCR (/wiki/My_Chemical_Romance) 's The Black Parade (/wiki/The_Black_Parade) . [56] (#cite_note-56) Small epauletes also became popular on men's shirts. [57] (#cite_note-57) African clothing [ edit ] Throughout the mid and late 2000s, [58] (#cite_note-58) women's clothing in Africa (/wiki/Clothing_in_Africa) comprised either brightly colored kente cloth (/wiki/Kente_cloth) or mudcloth (/wiki/Mudcloth) traditional dress (/wiki/Traditional_dress) such as the boubou (/wiki/Boubou_(clothing)) , pagne (/wiki/Pagne) , and doek (/wiki/Doek) , or secondhand Western dress donated and distributed by British and American charities. [59] (#cite_note-59) Mitumba clothing (/wiki/Mitumba_clothing) had been imported into Tanzania [60] (#cite_note-60) and Kenya since the economic liberalisation of the early 1990s, [61] (#cite_note-61) and was more desirable than newly made Chinese textiles due to its higher quality of construction and recognizable brand labels. [62] (#cite_note-62) Late 2000s (2007–2009) [ edit ] Young American woman in 2007 wearing a white miniskirt, a blue bikini top, and sunglasses Carry over styles [ edit ] Many early and mid 2000s fashions remained fashionable until 2008 while at the same time introducing new trends . [63] (#cite_note-63) This included items such as denim miniskirts, whale tail, hip-huggers (/wiki/Hip-hugger) , boot-cut jeans (/wiki/Bell-bottoms) , tank-tops, ripped jeans, Low Waisted Pants (/wiki/Low-rise_(fashion)) , hoodies (/wiki/Hoodie) , cargo pants (/wiki/Cargo_pants) , white belts, cropped jackets, capris, infantile dresses, boho-chic (/wiki/Boho-chic) , and Crocs. [27] (#cite_note-ShortLived00sTrends-27) [64] (#cite_note-64) [65] (#cite_note-65) Second wave 1980s revival [ edit ] Young woman in summer 2009 wearing all black clothes In the late 2000s, there was a large scale 1980s revival in Europe and the US, which incorporated general items of late 1980s and early 1990s streetwear, such as neon colors, gladiator sandals (/wiki/Gladiator_sandals) , [27] (#cite_note-ShortLived00sTrends-27) boat shoes especially Sperrys (/wiki/Sperry_Top-Sider) , animal print or polka dot headbands, knitted sweater dresses, Nike (/wiki/Nike,_Inc.) Tempo shorts, jean skirts with tights (/wiki/Tights) or capri leggings (/wiki/Leggings) , Wonderbra (/wiki/Wonderbra) and sloggi (/wiki/Sloggi) underwear, sundresses, geometric pattern tops, slap bracelets (/wiki/Slap_bracelet) , ballet flats (/wiki/Ballet_flats) , black spandex leggings (/wiki/Leggings) , pale denim jeggings (/wiki/Jeggings) , oversized shirts, sweaters, and sweatshirts worn with leggings (/wiki/Leggings) , light, translucent tartan (/wiki/Tartan) shirts worn with a camisole underneath, kinky boots (/wiki/Thigh-high_boots) , riding boots (/wiki/Riding_boots) , ripped acid wash (/wiki/Acid_wash) skinny jeans, and neon leg warmers (/wiki/Leg_warmers) worn with bare legs (/wiki/Bare_legs) and a dress or skirt. [27] (#cite_note-ShortLived00sTrends-27) In America, the crop tops (/wiki/Crop_top) that exposed the navel were replaced with longer camisole (/wiki/Camisole) tops, boat neck blouses and mid rise pants (/wiki/Mid_rise_pants) , and miniskirts were replaced with longer dresses like the babydoll (/wiki/Babydoll) , bubble skirt (/wiki/Bubble_skirt) , skater dress (/wiki/Skater_dress) , and sweater dress (/wiki/Sweater_dress) popularly worn with ankle or capri length leggings (/wiki/Leggings) or tights (/wiki/Tights) and ballet flats (/wiki/Ballet_flat) or sometimes Keds (/wiki/Keds) , low cut Converse Chucks (/wiki/Chuck_Taylor_All-Stars) or Uggs (/wiki/Ugg_boots) . Long, baggy empire line (/wiki/Empire_line) shirts were taken in at the bustline and often paired with a belt. Fur coats made a comeback, although many women used " fish fur (/wiki/Fish_fur) " due to real fur's association with animal cruelty. [66] (#cite_note-66) The canary yellow dress (/wiki/Yellow_dress_of_Reese_Witherspoon) Reese Witherspoon wore to the Golden Globes helped establish that hue as a signature color in 2007. [67] (#cite_note-67) Eastern and fairtrade fashion [ edit ] Indian couple wearing a mixture of traditional dress (/wiki/Folk_costume) and Western clothing Summer 2007 saw a resurgence of interest in ethnic fashion from India (/wiki/Fashion_in_India) [68] (#cite_note-68) [69] (#cite_note-69) and the Middle East, including harem pants (/wiki/Harem_pants) , embroidered kurti (/wiki/Kurta) , silk sashes (/wiki/Sash) , sarongs (/wiki/Sarong) , gypsy tops (/wiki/Gypsy_top) , and the saree (/wiki/Saree) [70] (#cite_note-70) [71] (#cite_note-71) [72] (#cite_note-72) as young British and American women discovered Bollywood (/wiki/Bollywood) cinema [73] (#cite_note-73) and belly dancing (/wiki/Belly_dancing) , popularized by Shakira (/wiki/Shakira) . [74] (#cite_note-74) In Britain and the US, some younger women and teen girls, especially those affiliated with the scene subculture (/wiki/Scene_subculture) and geek chic (/wiki/Geek_chic) , became influenced by Japanese street fashion (/wiki/Japanese_street_fashion) due to the media coverage of Japanese popular culture (/wiki/Japanese_popular_culture) and J-pop (/wiki/J-pop) music from 2005 to 2009. [75] (#cite_note-75) Although a small minority wore anime (/wiki/Anime) or manga (/wiki/Manga) inspired sailor dresses (/wiki/Sailor_dress) , kawaii (/wiki/Kawaii) [76] (#cite_note-76) or full Gothic Lolita (/wiki/Gothic_Lolita) outfits, most incorporated a single garment such as striped neon knee socks (/wiki/Knee_sock) , petticoats (/wiki/Petticoat) , [77] (#cite_note-77) rainbow dresses, knitted leg warmers (/wiki/Leg_warmer) , hair bows, silk floral kimono (/wiki/Kimono) pajamas (/wiki/Pajamas) , [78] (#cite_note-78) unisex brands like A Bathing Ape (/wiki/A_Bathing_Ape) , [79] (#cite_note-79) and cupcake (/wiki/Cupcake) , cherry or Hello Kitty (/wiki/Hello_Kitty) [80] (#cite_note-80) jewelry for an ageless, child or doll-like appearance. Activist chic [ edit ] In Britain and Australia, Middle Eastern shemaghs (/wiki/Shemagh) were worn as scarves (/wiki/Scarves) as a protest against the Iraq War (/wiki/Iraq_War) and demonstration of solidarity with the Palestinians (/wiki/Palestinians) . [81] (#cite_note-81) In 2007, Che Guevara chic (/wiki/Che_Guevara_chic) was popular in Europe and Latin America, with olive green fatigue jackets, boonie hats (/wiki/Boonie_hat) , berets (/wiki/Beret) , and T-shirts featuring red stars (/wiki/Red_star) or the face of the famous revolutionary (/wiki/Che_Guevara) . [82] (#cite_note-82) Men's fashion [ edit ] Early 2000s (2000–2002) [ edit ] Y2K fashion [ edit ] Clothing was mostly made in black, though silver was also fashionable. [15] (#cite_note-2000sFashionTrends-15) An example of this would be a tracksuit (/wiki/Tracksuit) , [16] (#cite_note-TooSoon2000-16) Rockport boots, a dress shirt, a pair of pants, a camp shirt (/wiki/Camp_shirt) , or a jacket in a fancy metallic pattern for going out; while also including of items such as leather coats and pants, puffy vests, jackets, ribbed sweaters, shirts, and chunky dress shoes, usually in futuristic colors such as black, silver, light gray, and white. [83] (#cite_note-Fall99Winter00-83) [84] (#cite_note-84) It lasted from the late 90's [83] (#cite_note-Fall99Winter00-83) until late 2001. [15] (#cite_note-2000sFashionTrends-15) Leisurewear [ edit ] Brad Pitt (/wiki/Brad_Pitt) , George Clooney (/wiki/George_Clooney) , Matt Damon (/wiki/Matt_Damon) , Andy García (/wiki/Andy_Garc%C3%ADa) , Julia Roberts (/wiki/Julia_Roberts) , and Steven Soderbergh (/wiki/Steven_Soderbergh) wearing brown leather jackets in December 2001 After the events of 9/11 (/wiki/9/11) , fashion became more conservative, forgoing the futuristic styles of before. Distressed denim made a comeback, with sandblasted highlights, frosted jeans, ripped jeans, and whiskering becoming commonplace. A lower rise jean had emerged during this part of the decade, effectively getting rid of the high-waisted styles of the 1990s. [25] (#cite_note-2000sFashionTrends2-25) Generally, many fashion trends from 1995 onwards continued to be worn in the early years of the decade. Newer fashion trends in the early 2000s included wearing sportswear and military wear [23] (#cite_note-2002FashionTrends-23) as everyday clothes. This included tracksuits (/wiki/Tracksuit) , [29] (#cite_note-2003WrapUp-29) [85] (#cite_note-85) light-colored polo shirts (/wiki/Polo_shirt) [86] (#cite_note-86) (sometimes striped and with collars popped), cargo pants (/wiki/Cargo_pants) [28] (#cite_note-CargoPantsHot-28) [29] (#cite_note-2003WrapUp-29) [87] (#cite_note-87) (even ones made out of linen during warmer months), [88] (#cite_note-88) khaki chinos (/wiki/Chinos) , bootcut jeans (/wiki/Bootcut_jeans) , corduroy (/wiki/Corduroy) pants, [89] (#cite_note-89) and rugby shirts (/wiki/Rugby_shirt) . [90] (#cite_note-askmen2001-90) Practical hiking jackets (of the type made by Berghaus (/wiki/Berghaus) ), fleeces (/wiki/Polar_fleece) , puffer jackets (/wiki/Puffer_jacket) , and padded tartan (/wiki/Tartan) lumberjack (/wiki/Lumberjack) -type shirts were worn as winter outerwear [90] (#cite_note-askmen2001-90) along with brown, grey, burgundy, rust, maroon, or forest green (/wiki/Forest_green) turtleneck sweaters (/wiki/Turtleneck_sweater) , [91] (#cite_note-91) and odd navy blue, stone (/wiki/Stone) grey, beige, or natural linen sportcoats (/wiki/Sportcoat) that fastened with three buttons. [90] (#cite_note-askmen2001-90) These fashions continued into the 2003-2008 Men's Accessories of the early 2000s included white belts, Aviator sunglasses (/wiki/Ray-Ban_Aviator) , trucker hats (/wiki/Trucker_hat) , [31] (#cite_note-Okay2003Fashions-31) flip-flops (/wiki/Flip-flops) , oxford shoes (/wiki/Oxford_shoes) , argyle (/wiki/Argyle_(pattern)) socks (usually worn over tracksuit bottoms), Rockport boots, sneakers from brands such as Nike (/wiki/Nike,_Inc.) , Adidas (/wiki/Adidas) , and Puma (/wiki/Puma_AG) , baseball caps (/wiki/Baseball_cap) (bearing the logos of football, soccer, basketball, and baseball teams), [92] (#cite_note-92) and jelly bracelets (/wiki/Gel_bracelet) . [35] (#cite_note-snopes-35) Asian fashions [ edit ] From 2001 onwards, Astrakhan caps (/wiki/Astrakhan_cap) , kufis (/wiki/Kufi) and the pakol (/wiki/Pakol) [93] (#cite_note-93) were fashionable among Muslim men in Afghanistan, Pakistan, France and Italy. [94] (#cite_note-94) In India, traditional rustic male attire such as the dhoti (/wiki/Dhoti) and Lungi (/wiki/Lungi) declined in popularity among the younger generation in favor of Westernised fashions such as Levi Strauss (/wiki/Levi_Strauss) or Arvind Mills jeans, [95] (#cite_note-95) [96] (#cite_note-96) cargo pants (/wiki/Cargo_pants) , shorts, tracksuits (/wiki/Tracksuit) , [97] (#cite_note-97) and sneakers. Mid 2000s (2003–2006) [ edit ] 1960s revival [ edit ] Californian band Orson (/wiki/Orson_(band)) in 2006 wearing mid 1960s-inspired apparel In the mid-2000s, retro (/wiki/Retro) fashions inspired by British indie pop (/wiki/Indie_pop) , garage rock revivalist (/wiki/Post-punk_revival) groups, and the 1960s mod culture (/wiki/Mod_(subculture)) gained mainstream popularity. [98] (#cite_note-98) From 2003 to 2006, common items of clothing in the US and Europe included bootcut jeans with a light wash, wide-leg pants, cargo pants, cargo shorts (/wiki/Shorts) , camp shirts with elaborate designs, [99] (#cite_note-2005DKNYMen-99) vintage (/wiki/Vintage_clothing) Classic rock (/wiki/Classic_rock) T-shirts (/wiki/T-shirts) , throwback uniforms (/wiki/Throwback_uniform) , T-shirts bearing retro (/wiki/Retro) pre-1980 advertisements or street art (/wiki/Street_art) , [100] (#cite_note-100) army surplus (/wiki/Army_surplus) dress uniforms (/wiki/Dress_uniform) , paisley (/wiki/Paisley_(design)) shirts, [101] (#cite_note-101) Mod (/wiki/Mod_(subculture)) -style velvet (/wiki/Velvet) sportcoats, parkas (/wiki/Anorak) , windbreakers (/wiki/Windbreaker) [102] (#cite_note-102) Harris tweed (/wiki/Harris_tweed) jackets, and fitted 1970s-style Western shirts (/wiki/Western_wear) [103] (#cite_note-103) with pearl snaps [104] (#cite_note-104) (popularized by blues-rock (/wiki/Blues-rock) band the White Stripes (/wiki/White_Stripes) ). Retro movie inspirations [ edit ] In 2004, men's fashion was inspired by movies from the 1960s and 1980s. Of particular inspiration were the movies Top Gun (/wiki/Top_Gun) , Bullitt (/wiki/Bullitt) , and Midnight Cowboy (/wiki/Midnight_Cowboy) . The clothes which were derived from these movies included Henley shirts (/wiki/Henley_shirt) , muscle shirts (/wiki/Sleeveless_shirt) , hoodies (/wiki/Hoodie) , cargo pants, [105] (#cite_note-105) American football shirts, aviator jackets (/wiki/Bomber_jacket) , cable-knit sweaters, khakis (/wiki/Chino_cloth) , seersucker (/wiki/Seersucker) suits, [106] (#cite_note-106) western shirts, blazers, and peacoats (/wiki/Pea_coat) . [107] (#cite_note-107) Popular men's accessories of the mid-2000s included black brogue shoes (/wiki/Brogue_shoe) , [108] (#cite_note-108) square-toed Steve Madden (/wiki/Steve_Madden) ankle boots, Adidas (/wiki/Adidas) sneakers, [109] (#cite_note-109) loafers (/wiki/Boat_shoes) , casual shoes, Oxford dress shoes, [110] (#cite_note-110) Converse All Stars (/wiki/Chuck_Taylor_All-Stars) , winklepickers (/wiki/Winklepickers) (taken to extremes by individuals within the Mexican cholo (/wiki/Cholo) and lowrider (/wiki/Lowrider) subcultures), flip-flops (/wiki/Flip-flops) , [99] (#cite_note-2005DKNYMen-99) chokers, puka shell necklaces, shell bracelets, hemp jewelry, charity bracelets, trucker hats, and earrings. Business suits [ edit ] In the UK workplace, black, navy or charcoal pinstripe (/wiki/Pinstripe) three-buttoned office suits (/wiki/Office_suit) remained common, but Nehru suits (/wiki/Nehru_suit) [111] (#cite_note-111) or mandarin collar (/wiki/Mandarin_collar) shirts [112] (#cite_note-112) inspired by the Beatles (/wiki/The_Beatles) , James Bond (/wiki/James_Bond) , and science fiction movies like the Matrix (/wiki/The_Matrix) , were a popular alternative from 2003 to 2006. In the US, men favored the smart casual (/wiki/Smart_casual) look, with striped purple dress shirts (/wiki/Dress_shirt) , [113] (#cite_note-113) flat front charcoal chinos (/wiki/Chinos) , [114] (#cite_note-114) beige cardigans (/wiki/Cardigan_(sweater)) , [115] (#cite_note-115) argyle (/wiki/Argyle_(pattern)) pullovers (/wiki/Sweater) , black or brown leather blazers (/wiki/Blazer) , [116] (#cite_note-116) and houndstooth (/wiki/Houndstooth) sportcoats (/wiki/Sportcoat) . [117] (#cite_note-117) Late 2000s (2007–2009) [ edit ] Jared Leto (/wiki/Jared_Leto) wearing slim-fit formal wear; Popular 2008–onwards. Throwback fashions [ edit ] In the late 2000s, 1950s [118] (#cite_note-118) and 1980s fashions became popular: Letterman jackets (/wiki/Letterman_jacket) , black leather jackets (/wiki/Leather_jackets) [119] (#cite_note-119) like the Perfecto (/wiki/Perfecto_motorcycle_jacket) , windbreakers (/wiki/Windbreaker) , [120] (#cite_note-120) dashiki (/wiki/Dashiki) [121] (#cite_note-121) or Hawaiian shirts (/wiki/Hawaiian_shirt) , [122] (#cite_note-122) ski jackets (/wiki/Ski_jacket) , [123] (#cite_note-123) slim and straight leg jeans, [124] (#cite_note-124) wool topcoats (/wiki/Overcoat) , [125] (#cite_note-125) Ed Hardy (/wiki/Ed_Hardy) T-shirts with low necklines, neon colors (/wiki/Neon_color) inspired by the rave (/wiki/Rave) scene, [126] (#cite_note-126) roll sleeve tartan (/wiki/Tartan) flannel (/wiki/Flannel) shirts worn with white T-shirts, cardigans (/wiki/Cardigan_(sweater)) and knitted V-neck sweaters (/wiki/V-neck_sweater) . [127] (#cite_note-127) In the late 2000s, common accessories worn by men included retro Patek Philippe (/wiki/Patek_Philippe) , Casio (/wiki/Casio) G-Shock [128] (#cite_note-128) and Rolex (/wiki/Rolex) wristwatches (/wiki/Wristwatch) , Ray Ban Wayfarers (/wiki/Ray_Ban_Wayfarer) and Aviator sunglasses (/wiki/Aviator_sunglasses) , [129] (#cite_note-129) and geek chic (/wiki/Geek_chic) inspired horn rimmed glasses (/wiki/Horn_rimmed_glasses) . Desirable footwear in Europe and America included Sperry Top-Siders (/wiki/Sperry_Top-Sider) , Keds (/wiki/Keds) , motorcycle boots (/wiki/Motorcycle_boots) , Nike (/wiki/Nike,_Inc.) Air Jordans (/wiki/Air_Jordan) , [130] (#cite_note-130) checkerboard (/wiki/Checkerboard) pattern Vans, and Converse All-Stars (/wiki/Chuck_Taylor_All-Stars) . [131] (#cite_note-131) Ed Hardy [ edit ] Dennis Rodman (/wiki/Dennis_Rodman) wearing an Ed Hardy shirt, and Donald Trump (/wiki/Donald_Trump) wearing a navy blue two button suit in 2009 Due to the mainstream acceptance of body modification (/wiki/Body_modification) , T-shirts, baseball caps (/wiki/Baseball_cap) and hoodies featuring vintage tattoo (/wiki/Tattoo) designs [132] (#cite_note-132) were desirable items in the US, Britain and India, where they were worn with black leather jackets, oversized belt buckles, gold chains, and dark slim-fit jeans (/wiki/Slim-fit_jeans) by celebrity trendsetters (/wiki/Trendsetting) such as Jon Gosselin (/wiki/Jon_Gosselin) [133] (#cite_note-133) or the cast of Jersey Shore (/wiki/Jersey_Shore_(TV_series)) . [134] (#cite_note-134) V-neck (/wiki/Neckline) T-shirts and graphic printed hoodies (/wiki/Hoodies) became popular among younger British men, in contrast to the designer brands with prominent logos previously worn by the chav (/wiki/Chav) subculture. Ed Hardy (/wiki/Ed_Hardy) T-shirts, often embellished with rhinestones (/wiki/Rhinestone) , were fashionable from late 2008 until the mid-2010s, when they fell out of favour due to their unintended popularity [135] (#cite_note-135) among young clubgoers stereotyped for being thugs, jocks (/wiki/Jock_(athlete)) or guidos (/wiki/Guido_(subculture)) . [136] (#cite_note-136) Slim-fit suits [ edit ] In the European workplace, the cut of suits changed, as the three buttoned jackets popular in the 1990s were replaced with 1950s inspired suits comprising a two-buttoned blazer (/wiki/Blazer) and matching trousers [137] (#cite_note-137) while in the US the power suit (/wiki/Office_suit) made a comeback. [138] (#cite_note-138) Single-breasted European suits sometimes featured contrasting Edwardian (/wiki/Edwardian) style piping on the lapels and were often worn with slim ties and waistcoats (/wiki/Waistcoat) . [139] (#cite_note-139) Youth fashion [ edit ] Youth fashion was strongly influenced by many music-based subcultures such as emo (/wiki/Emo) , indie kids (/wiki/Indie_kids) , scene kids, [140] (#cite_note-140) psychobilly (/wiki/Psychobilly) , preppy (/wiki/Preppy) , skater (/wiki/Skateboarding#Culture) , goth (/wiki/Goth_subculture) , nu metal (/wiki/Nu_metal) (known as moshers (/wiki/Moshing) in the UK), [141] (#cite_note-141) ravers (/wiki/Rave) and hip hop (/wiki/Hip_hop) , [142] (#cite_note-142) including the British chav (/wiki/Chav) , US gangsta rapper (/wiki/Gangsta_rap) and Mexican Cholo (/wiki/Cholo) styles of the early 2000s. [143] (#cite_note-cummings-143) Hip hop Main article: Hip hop fashion (/wiki/Hip_hop_fashion) American rapper Jay Z (/wiki/Jay_Z) The clothing of American hip hop fans underwent an evolution from the sagging (/wiki/Sagging_(fashion)) baggy gangster jeans (/wiki/Baggy_gangster_jeans) of the late 1990s to a more retro (/wiki/Retro) look by the end of the decade. [144] (#cite_note-144) Popular items of clothing included wide leg jeans (/wiki/Wide_leg_jeans) , baseball jackets (/wiki/Baseball_jacket) , Nike Air Jordans (/wiki/Air_Jordans) , tracksuits (/wiki/Tracksuit) , sweatpants (/wiki/Sweatpants) , bucket hats (/wiki/Bucket_hat) , stunna shades (/wiki/Stunna_shades) , fur-lined puffer jackets (/wiki/Puffer_jacket) , and flat-brim trucker hats (/wiki/Trucker_hat) or baseball caps (/wiki/Baseball_cap) (often retaining the store label). [145] (#cite_note-145) During the early 2000s, many wealthy white jocks (/wiki/Jock_(athlete)) and preppies (/wiki/Preppies) imitated the gangsta lifestyle, eschewing the semi-formal conservative look of the 1980s and 90s in favor of gold bling (/wiki/Bling) , expensive designer clothes (/wiki/Designer_clothes) , sneakers (/wiki/Sneakers_(footwear)) , dark jeans, and sweatpants (/wiki/Sweatpants) . [146] (#cite_note-146) Rich girls who dressed this way were known as Queen Bees (/wiki/Queen_bee_(sociology)) , plastics, or airheads (/wiki/Airhead_(subculture)) , [147] (#cite_note-147) and believed their designer clothing was key to being popular. [148] (#cite_note-148) Another common American subculture were the cholos (/wiki/Cholo) and chicanos (/wiki/Chicano) who wore baggy khaki (/wiki/Khaki) slacks (/wiki/Trousers) , gold chains, white T-shirts (/wiki/T-shirts) , and slicked back hair (/wiki/Slicked_back_hair) or shaved heads in imitation of Mexican prison gangs. [143] (#cite_note-cummings-143) Breakdown [ edit ] The development of hip-hop fashion, from its start in the streets of New York to its current standing as an international trend, is a striking example of how this genre both affected and was inspired by broader cultural and stylistic trends. The 1970s saw the emergence of hip-hop's fashion heritage, which mirrored the streetwear previously owned by kids in the Bronx, such as tracksuits, bomber jackets, and sneakers with large shoelaces. The sneaker market was dominated by brands like Puma, Chuck Taylors, and Pro-Keds, while baggy clothes gained popularity, probably as a result of inner-city hand-me-downs being ill-fitting. This creative fusion of streetwear and inventiveness laid the groundwork for hip-hop's aesthetic expression, highlighting uniqueness and fortitude in the face of societal, economic, and cultural obstacles. [149] (#cite_note-149) Hip-hop's fashion sense became harder to come by as it became more mainstream, but it never lost its core spirit of rebellion and self-expression. This mindset remained when hip-hop fashion transitioned into the new century. Artists such as Nigo, the originator of A Bathing Ape (BAPE), had a major impact on the style of the time by working with other hip-hop artists. For instance, Pharrell Williams was essential in fusing hip-hop with skate culture, which expanded the fashion influence of the music. [150] (#cite_note-:2-150) In the mid to late 2000s, artists such as Kanye West challenged the conventional ideas of masculinity in hip-hop fashion by presenting a more varied selection of ensemble options, such as shutter sunglasses and pink polo shirts. Hip-hop and high fashion saw a dramatic crossover during this time, with Kanye West's partnership with Louis Vuitton signifying a new degree of collaboration between the two industries. [150] (#cite_note-:2-150) By the early 2010s, artists like Tyler, the Creator, and A$AP Rocky were pushing the limits of hip-hop fashion even further, highlighting the influence of skatewear and the incorporation of high fashion inside hip-hop style. The bold, unconventional fashion of Odd Future stood in opposition to the subdued, monochrome attire of musicians such as Kanye West, demonstrating the range of artistic expressions within the genre. Hip-hop's growing interest in luxury clothes was highlighted by A$AP Rocky's name-dropping of high-end labels in his songs, which established designers like Rick Owens and Raf Simons as mainstays of the genre's lexicon. [150] (#cite_note-:2-150) Chavs and moshers Main article: Chav (/wiki/Chav) In the early 2000s, the most common British subcultures were the chavs (/wiki/Chav) and skate punks (/wiki/Skate_punk) who had a (sometimes violent) rivalry. [151] (#cite_note-151) Chavs favored cheap sportswear and fake designer clothing like tracksuits (/wiki/Tracksuits) , burberry (/wiki/Burberry) baseball caps (/wiki/Baseball_cap) , white Nike (/wiki/Nike,_Inc.) or Reebok (/wiki/Reebok) trainers, and cheap sportswear made by Reebok (/wiki/Reebok) or Kappa (/wiki/Kappa) . Common haircuts included the french crop (/wiki/French_crop) or (for girls) a Croydon facelift (/wiki/Croydon_facelift) . [ citation needed ] The skaters (nicknamed grebos (/wiki/Grebo_(Subculture)) or moshers (/wiki/Moshing) ) had long hair or dreadlocks (/wiki/Dreadlocks) and wore grunge (/wiki/Grunge) inspired padded flannel overshirts (/wiki/Overshirt) and baggy pants (/wiki/Baggy_pants) as these were less likely to rip when skateboarding (/wiki/Skateboard) . [152] (#cite_note-152) Popular clothing included No Fear (/wiki/No_Fear) T-shirts, webbing (/wiki/Webbing) belts, army surplus (/wiki/Army_surplus) patrol caps (/wiki/Patrol_cap) , band T-shirts, dog tags (/wiki/Dog_tag) , shark tooth (/wiki/Shark_tooth) necklaces, camouflage (/wiki/Camouflage) cargo pants (/wiki/Cargo_pants) , carpenter jeans (/wiki/Carpenter_jeans) , [153] (#cite_note-153) tuques (/wiki/Tuque) , and fingerless gloves (/wiki/Fingerless_glove) in dark colors like black, olive drab (/wiki/Olive_drab) , burgundy, and navy blue. [154] (#cite_note-154) From 2001 to 2008, brands favoured by British skaters and their American counterparts included Quiksilver, Inc. (/wiki/Quiksilver,_Inc.) , Bape (/wiki/Bape) hoodies, Volcom (/wiki/Volcom) , Element Skateboards (/wiki/Element_Skateboards) , Billabong International Limited (/wiki/Billabong_International_Limited) , Zoo York (/wiki/Zoo_York_(company)) Skateboard Company, O'Neill (/wiki/O%27Neill_(brand)) , Bullhead jeans, Vans (/wiki/Vans) sneakers (/wiki/Sneakers) , Pacific Sunwear (/wiki/Pacific_Sunwear) and Journeys (/wiki/Journeys_(brand)) . Nu metal, rave, and goth Main article: Goth subculture (/wiki/Goth_subculture) A cybergoth (/wiki/Cybergoth) with goggles, synthetic blue hair and shaved head, 2005 In America, common subcultures of the early 2000s included the nu metal (/wiki/Nu_metal) fans and goths (/wiki/Goth_subculture) who wore black leather duster coats (/wiki/Duster_coat) and tripp pants (/wiki/Tripp_pants) . In the rave subculture, fashion trends that had developed in the 1990s persisted. Some ravers (/wiki/Rave) favored spiky hair (/wiki/Spiky_hair) and phat pants (/wiki/Phat_pants) , while members of the cybergoth (/wiki/Cybergoth) [155] (#cite_note-155) and rivethead (/wiki/Rivethead) [156] (#cite_note-156) subcultures opted for shaved heads (/wiki/Shaved_head) , synthetic neon (/wiki/Neon_color) dreadlocks (/wiki/Dreadlocks) , camouflage (/wiki/Camouflage) , tight leather pants, chains, platform boots (/wiki/Platform_boots) , [157] (#cite_note-157) stretched body piercings (/wiki/Body_piercing) , sleeve tattoos, goggles (/wiki/Goggles) , corsets (/wiki/Corset) , PVC or leather skirts (/wiki/Leather_skirt) , and black trenchcoats (/wiki/Trenchcoat) decorated with metal studs (/wiki/Cleat_(shoe)) . [158] (#cite_note-158) Psychobilly and rockabilly Main article: Raggare (/wiki/Raggare) Swedish Raggare (/wiki/Raggare) , 2005. From the early-mid-2000s, black leather jackets (/wiki/Leather_jackets) , cowboy boots (/wiki/Cowboy_boot) and Levi's jeans (/wiki/Levi%27s_jeans) were popular in Scandinavia (/wiki/Raggare) , Russia and Germany among the hot rod (/wiki/Hot_rod) , psychobilly (/wiki/Psychobilly) and rockabilly (/wiki/Rockabilly) subcultures. Common hairstyles included the quiff (/wiki/Quiff) , pompadour (/wiki/Pompadour_(hairstyle)) , and psychobilly (/wiki/Psychobilly) mohican (/wiki/Mohican) . [159] (#cite_note-159) Later in the decade, it was popular for women to dress like 1950s (/wiki/1950s_fashion) pin-up girls (/wiki/Pin-up_girls) in polkadot (/wiki/Polkadot) dresses, pencil skirts (/wiki/Pencil_skirt) , sheath dresses (/wiki/Sheath_dress) , capri pants (/wiki/Capri_pants) , platform heels (/wiki/Platform_heels) , 1940s style sandals (/wiki/Sandal) , retro (/wiki/Retro) lingerie like garter belts (/wiki/Garter_belt) , stockings, babydolls (/wiki/Babydoll) , petticoats (/wiki/Petticoat) , slips (/wiki/Slip_(clothing)) , and corsets, and (real or fake) old school tattoos (/wiki/Old_school_tattoo) . [160] (#cite_note-160) This trend, popularised by models like Dita Von Teese (/wiki/Dita_Von_Teese) , gave rise to the popularity among all sexes of Ed Hardy (/wiki/Ed_Hardy) clothing [161] (#cite_note-161) which lasted from 2007 until 2012. [162] (#cite_note-162) Indie and emo Main articles: Indie kid (/wiki/Indie_kid) and emo (/wiki/Emo) Indie rock singer Damian Kulash (/wiki/Damian_Kulash) wearing psychedelic 1960s inspired clothing, 2009 In 2005, indie pop (/wiki/Indie_pop) fashions went mainstream in Europe and North America (/wiki/Indie_sleaze) , prompting a revival of 1960s mod (/wiki/Mod_subculture) and British Invasion (/wiki/British_Invasion) fashions, vintage (/wiki/Vintage_clothing) or thrift store clothing (/wiki/Thrift_store_clothing) , [163] (#cite_note-163) and the popularization of activist fashions like the keffiyeh (/wiki/Keffiyeh) . [164] (#cite_note-164) The closely related hipster subculture (/wiki/Hipster_subculture) , which wore vintage clothing ironically rather than as a counterculture (/wiki/Counterculture) statement, emerged in America in the late 2000s to early 2010s (/wiki/2010s_fashion) . [165] (#cite_note-165) Other subcultures, including American preppies and even rappers like Kanye West (/wiki/Kanye_West) , imitated indie fashions [166] (#cite_note-166) or combined them with elements of Japanese street style, like the Harajuku (/wiki/Harajuku) and Lolita fashion (/wiki/Lolita_fashion) popularized by Gwen Stefani (/wiki/Gwen_Stefani) . The other notable youth group of the mid-late 2000s were the emo (/wiki/Emo) kids, identifiable by their black or purple hoodies (/wiki/Hoodie) , T-shirts featuring rock bands (/wiki/Rock_music) like Fall Out Boy (/wiki/Fall_Out_Boy) , My Chemical Romance (/wiki/My_Chemical_Romance) , or Taking Back Sunday (/wiki/Taking_Back_Sunday) . Lowrise (/wiki/Hip-huggers) skinny jeans (/wiki/Skinny_jeans) , snakebites (/wiki/Lip_piercing) , silver jewellery, and checkerboard pattern (/wiki/Checkerboard_pattern) Vans. Hair was thin, flat and straight, with long, matte bangs (/wiki/Bangs_(hair)) (US) or fringe (UK), usually dyed black. [167] (#cite_note-167) Scene kids Main article: Scene (subculture) (/wiki/Scene_(subculture)) By early 2009 the most conspicuous subculture was the "scene kids.". [168] (#cite_note-168) [169] (#cite_note-169) [170] (#cite_note-170) The style, originally comprising tripp pants (/wiki/Tripp_pants) , stripes, tartan, spiky hair (/wiki/Spiky_hair) , Chucks, Vans (/wiki/Vans) , and trucker hats (/wiki/Trucker_hat) derived from grunge (/wiki/Grunge) and skate punk (/wiki/Skate_punk) fashion, evolved to incorporate androgynous, matted, flat and straight hair sometimes dyed bright colors, tight jeans (/wiki/Tight_jeans) , [171] (#cite_note-171) cartoon print hoodies, shutter shades (/wiki/Shutter_shades) , promise rings (/wiki/Pre-engagement_ring) , [172] (#cite_note-172) checked shirts, and many bright colors. [173] (#cite_note-173) The name was originally derived from "scene queen", a derogatory term within the 1970s glam rock (/wiki/Glam_rock) scene for a heterosexual musician who pretended to be gay and later applied to poseurs (/wiki/Poseurs) within the UK goth (/wiki/Gothic_rock) , heavy metal (/wiki/Heavy_metal_music) and punk subcultures (/wiki/Punk_subculture) . [174] (#cite_note-174) Later, "scene queen" itself was adopted by leading female members of the modern subculture who were unaware of its original meaning, like supermodel Audrey Kitching (/wiki/Audrey_Kitching) . [175] (#cite_note-175) [176] (#cite_note-176) Preppy Main article: Preppy (/wiki/Preppy) Items seen in the late 2000s for preppy youth, teens, and college age included footwear Sperrys (/wiki/Sperry_Top-Sider) , Keds (/wiki/Keds) , ballet flats (/wiki/Ballet_flat) , Converse Chucks (/wiki/Chuck_Taylor_All-Stars) , Uggs (/wiki/Ugg_boots) , riding boots (/wiki/Riding_boot) , especially worn with knee socks or legwarmers slouch at the top of the boots, Hunter rain boots (/wiki/Hunter_Boot_Ltd) , and other white casual sneakers. Items worn included skirts and dresses such as pleated skirts, skater skirts, skater dresses, babydoll dresses, bubble skirts, jeans skirts, 2fer leggings and skirt combo, [177] (#cite_note-177) [178] (#cite_note-178) [179] (#cite_note-179) sweater dresses, skimp dresses and belted shirt dresses with ankle or capri leggings (/wiki/Leggings) , footless or footed opaque tights (/wiki/Tights) . [180] (#cite_note-180) Also oversized shirts, sweaters [181] (#cite_note-181) and sweatshirts worn with leggings (/wiki/Leggings) , polo shirts, layered short sleeve polo or t-shirts with a long sleeved shirt under, argyle print clothing including sweaters, knee socks, headbands, etc., cardigans, skinny jeans and colored jeans, [182] (#cite_note-182) [183] (#cite_note-183) [184] (#cite_note-184) translucent tartan (/wiki/Tartan) shirts worn with a camisole underneath, [185] (#cite_note-185) cropped sweaters, jeggings (/wiki/Jeggings) , neon and pastel colored socks, [186] (#cite_note-186) Nike tempo shorts, dressy shorts, headbands and headwraps. [187] (#cite_note-187) [188] (#cite_note-188) [189] (#cite_note-189) 2000s beauty trends [ edit ] Hairstyles [ edit ] Women [ edit ] Zoë Bell (/wiki/Zo%C3%AB_Bell) in 2006 sporting a medium length hairstyle and blended highlights In the early 2000s, women's hair was often long and straight. [190] (#cite_note-DecadeEnds2000sBeauty-190) The early 2000s featured "zig-zag partings", in which the hairline is parted in a zig-zag fashion. Hair lengths varied from below the earlobes at the shortest to just below the shoulders at the longest. [191] (#cite_note-TopHair2000-191) From 1995 until 2008 highlights and lowlights made of blonde, red, and light brown went mainstream. In 2000, highlights were soft and subtle for a sun-kissed look. [191] (#cite_note-TopHair2000-191) In 2002 bold and unblended highlights called "chunky highlights" burst onto the scene. This trend was kickstarted by Kelly Clarkson (/wiki/Kelly_Clarkson) during her time on American Idol (/wiki/American_Idol) , lasting until 2006. [192] (#cite_note-2000sBeautyTrends-192) The early 2000s also continued the Farrah Fawcett hairstyle (/wiki/Feathered_hair) revival of the late 1990s. [193] (#cite_note-193) Crimped hair was popular in the early and mid 2000s. For black women, cornrows (/wiki/Cornrows) , dreadlocks (/wiki/Dreadlocks) and curly weaves (/wiki/Weaves) were popular until the late 2000s, when toned-down versions of the Afro (/wiki/Afro) , Jheri curl (/wiki/Jheri_curl) and short pixie cuts were popularized by artists like Janet Jackson (/wiki/Janet_Jackson) and Rihanna (/wiki/Rihanna) . Another popular hairstyle throughout the decade was the braid, rejuvenated by the likes of Alicia Keys (/wiki/Alicia_Keys) and Lauren Conrad (/wiki/Lauren_Conrad) . Throughout the early and middle years braids and plaits would often be meticulously put in intricate patterns and would purposely be styled as a way to blend in better with women's clothing styles. [192] (#cite_note-2000sBeautyTrends-192) In the mid-2000s, many women favored the bob haircut, as well as its longer version, the long bob or "the lob". [190] (#cite_note-DecadeEnds2000sBeauty-190) [192] (#cite_note-2000sBeautyTrends-192) By the late 00's, it became unfashionable to center-part one's hair, and the side-swept Bangs (/wiki/Bangs_(hair)) of the 1980s made a comeback. In the late 2000s, dark haired women (and even light-haired ones) favored the jet black hair (/wiki/Black_hair) , as worn by Katy Perry (/wiki/Katy_Perry) or Amy Winehouse (/wiki/Amy_Winehouse) with her trademark beehive hairstyle (/wiki/Beehive_hairstyle) . Textured hair with volume, natural wavy hair, and the bob cut (/wiki/Bob_cut) became popular from 2007 onwards in both Britain and the USA. In 2009, many women sought to imitate the hairstyle Kate Gosselin (/wiki/Kate_Gosselin) had that year, briefly bringing back blended highlights into the mainstream. This look ended up only being a fad. [192] (#cite_note-2000sBeautyTrends-192) Other popular late 2000s trends included Headbands (/wiki/Headbands) , headwraps and Scrunchies (/wiki/Scrunchies) , side ponytails, and braiding on one side of the head. Men [ edit ] For European men aged 25–40, shorter hair styles that usually took the form of a quiff (/wiki/Quiff) were fashionable in the early 2000s, as well as spiked hair and fauxhawks (/wiki/Fauxhawk) for men aged 18–30. Dark-haired young British men often had dyed-blonde weaves and streaks until the late 2000s when a natural hair color became the norm again. [194] (#cite_note-194) A common haircut among American men and boys was the frosted (/wiki/Frosted_tips) spiky hair (/wiki/Spiky_hair) popularized by boybands and pop punk (/wiki/Pop_punk) bands from 1997 through 2004, 2005-2008. Long, shaggy Mod (/wiki/Mod_(subculture)) or surfer hair (/wiki/Surfer_hair) became popular among many young men between 2003 and 2006 in the UK as many bands moved away from punk rock (/wiki/Punk_rock) and rap metal (/wiki/Rap_metal) in favor of a 1960s inspired indie (/wiki/Indie_rock) or garage rock (/wiki/Garage_rock) sound pioneered by groups like The Strokes (/wiki/The_Strokes) , Jet (/wiki/Jet_(band)) , The Killers (/wiki/The_Killers) , The Hives (/wiki/The_Hives) , The Vines (/wiki/The_Vines_(band)) , Coldplay (/wiki/Coldplay) , and The White Stripes (/wiki/The_White_Stripes) . These hairstyles gradually replaced the shaggy, grown out curtained hair (/wiki/Curtained_hair) popular since the late 1990s among American celebrities like Tom Cruise (/wiki/Tom_Cruise) , Jim Adkins of Jimmy Eat World (/wiki/Jimmy_Eat_World) , Alex Band (/wiki/Alex_Band) , Jason Wade (/wiki/Jason_Wade) , Mehmet Okur (/wiki/Mehmet_Okur) and Hanno Möttölä (/wiki/Hanno_M%C3%B6tt%C3%B6l%C3%A4) . By the late 2000s, many young British men opted for a clean-cut 1950s inspired hairstyle, kept in place with pomade (/wiki/Pomade) . [195] (#cite_note-195) Shaved and bald hairstyles along with beards (/wiki/Beard) , moustaches (/wiki/Moustache) , stubble (/wiki/Shaving) , sideburns (/wiki/Sideburns) , and the goatee (/wiki/Goatee) became popular in Europe and North America in reaction to the effeminate early and mid 2000s metrosexual (/wiki/Metrosexual) look, with charitable events like Movember (/wiki/Movember) further increasing their acceptability. [196] (#cite_note-196) Children and teenagers [ edit ] Swedish teenagers wearing typical late 2000s male hairstyles, 2008 Wings haircut worn by singer Justin Bieber in 2009. For boys, short haircuts such as the quiff (/wiki/Quiff) , the buzzcut (/wiki/Buzzcut) , curtains (/wiki/Curtained_hair) , crew cut (/wiki/Crew_cut) , and Caesar cut (/wiki/Caesar_cut) were popular in the early 2000s. Girls favored straight hair extensions (/wiki/Hair_extensions) and chunky highlights. It also became fashionable to sport curly hair with a "zig-zag" side parting and blended highlights around 2002/03. [197] (#cite_note-197) Back in the late 90s and early 2000s, butterfly hair clips and crimped hair became extremely popular for preteens and teenage girls. In the mid-2000s, longer hair on teenage boys became popular in the UK and America, including the wings haircut (/wiki/Wings_haircut) , influenced by the 1960s Mod subculture (/wiki/Mod_subculture) , and British indie pop (/wiki/Indie_pop) stars. [198] (#cite_note-198) Hairstyles among teenage girls experienced little change, being largely the same as they were in the early 2000s. Curly hair became less popular in Britain, while straight hair grew more dominant. Highlights remained popular, as well as extensions. Hair was often tied into a ponytail (/wiki/Ponytail) and incorporated long bangs or a fringe. In 2009, the androgynous Harajuku (/wiki/Harajuku) inspired scene hairstyles (often dyed bright colors) and eyeliner were popular among girls and boys alike: first in Japan, and later in the US and Europe. [199] (#cite_note-199) As an alternative to the scene hairstyles, many teenage girls in the US and Australasia opted for a preppy (/wiki/Preppy) hairstyle that involved long, straight hair, side-swept and regular bangs and a side part, while boys wore basic skater hair (/wiki/Basic_skater_hair) . [200] (#cite_note-200) Many girls wore headbands, headwraps and 80s inspired scrunchies (/wiki/Scrunchies) with either a side ponytail (/wiki/Ponytail) or french braid (/wiki/French_braid) falling over one shoulder. In between 2006 and 2008, Middle Eastern teenage boys in Australia (/wiki/Australia) , namely those of Lebanese (/wiki/Lebanese_people) descent, acquired the high and tight (/wiki/High_and_tight) haircut. Some had the cut with a mullet (/wiki/Mullet_(haircut)) . Makeup and cosmetic trends [ edit ] The year 2000, was based on the glittery Y2K inspired makeup of the late 1990s. With the turn of the millennium, the idea was for women to capture a futuristic, space-age style, with makeup including bronze specks for a metallic shine with ecstatic colors. An alternative for those who did not like metallics was a purple and brown color scheme. [201] (#cite_note-MakeupFor2000-201) Lip gloss (/wiki/Lip_gloss) was more popular than lipstick among both women and girls. [192] (#cite_note-2000sBeautyTrends-192) By the spring/summer season of 2001, this look took a backseat in favor of a more low-maintenance, natural style that showed off ones features. However, the glittery looks continued to be popular. [202] (#cite_note-Summer2001Beauty-202) In 2002, mineral makeup broke into the mainstream with Bare Minerals, a product of Bare Escentuals (/wiki/Shiseido) . This fueled the trend for natural looking makeup, and became the standard of the 2000s. [192] (#cite_note-2000sBeautyTrends-192) By 2004, the glittery looks had disappeared. By around 2005/06, retro-styled makeup from the 1940s had made a comeback, such as bright red lips and cat eyes. In the mid and late 2000s, lip gloss remained popular, and the "Smoky Eye" emerged, with more emphasis on eyeliner (/wiki/Eyeliner) , mascara (/wiki/Mascara) , and eyeshadow (/wiki/Eyeshadow) . [192] (#cite_note-2000sBeautyTrends-192) Another emerging trend was a more natural "less is more" approach to makeup around the same time. [203] (#cite_note-203) Also around the second half of the decade, there was an increasing amount of emphasis on the perfection of complexions, with illuminators and shimmer products becoming must-have items. [190] (#cite_note-DecadeEnds2000sBeauty-190) In the late 2000s, there was a craze for fake eyelashes, started by Lady Gaga (/wiki/Lady_Gaga) . [190] (#cite_note-DecadeEnds2000sBeauty-190) This resulted in lash tinting, lash extensions, and fake lashes. Makeup styles generally became simpler and more individualistic with the rise of How-to YouTube (/wiki/YouTube) videos. [192] (#cite_note-2000sBeautyTrends-192) Body care and grooming [ edit ] The year 2000 featured natural-colored skin as the most desirable, and did not feature many body care trends other than the rise of hair removal, teeth whitening, and anti-aging creams. In the summer of 2001, the sunless tanning (/wiki/Sunless_tanning) trend broke into the mainstream for all genders, [202] (#cite_note-Summer2001Beauty-202) prompted by Jennifer Lopez (/wiki/Jennifer_Lopez) [190] (#cite_note-DecadeEnds2000sBeauty-190) and Christina Aguilera (/wiki/Christina_Aguilera) . This included both self-tanners and spray tans. Cosmetic contacts also became more widespread among all genders this year. In 2002, botox was approved for public use and became hugely popular with women and men. By 2009, fake tanning had gone out of style in favor a pale complexion, inspired by the Twilight film. [192] (#cite_note-2000sBeautyTrends-192) The 2000s, continued the unisex trend of bikini waxing (/wiki/Bikini_waxing) which had started in the 1990s. [190] (#cite_note-DecadeEnds2000sBeauty-190) Although waxing in general had been popular among women for several years, it was in the 1990s that complete male body hair removal went mainstream. [204] (#cite_note-204) Being considered suggestive and indecent in the 90s, male waxing became ubiquitous as a result of the metrosexual trend in the early and mid 2000s. Also during this time, it was popular to have a completely clean-shaven face, as if to make one look underage. [192] (#cite_note-2000sBeautyTrends-192) Male hair removal declined in the late 2000s. Tattoos and piercings [ edit ] Navel piercings were popular from 1995 all the way to the 2007/2008. The 2000s continued the trend of tattoos and piercings among both genders which had begun during the 1990s. Commonplace tattoos in Europe, Australasia, Hong Kong, [205] (#cite_note-205) and North America included tramp stamps (/wiki/Lower-back_tattoo) and tribal arm tattoos from the early to mid 2000s, and Hindu Sanskrit (/wiki/Sanskrit) or Chinese Kanji (/wiki/Kanji) words from 2007 to 2010. [206] (#cite_note-206) [207] (#cite_note-207) Old school tattoos (/wiki/Old_school_tattoo) depicting hearts, skulls, flowers or female figures were considered unfashionable [208] (#cite_note-208) and unsophisticated for much of the decade, especially among women. However, these made a comeback in 2008 at the same time Ed Hardy (/wiki/Ed_Hardy) accessories [209] (#cite_note-209) [210] (#cite_note-210) and the pin-up girl (/wiki/Pin-up_girl) look were becoming popular. [211] (#cite_note-211) Getting a mustache tattoo on a finger, as a "fingerstache", was an ironic tattoo trend starting in around 2003. [212] (#cite_note-212) In the early 2000s, navel piercings (/wiki/Navel_piercings) reached their peak, as did tongue rings (/wiki/Tongue_piercing) . Other popular piercings throughout the decade include labret piercings, nostril piercings, nipple piercings, and eyebrow piercings. Piercings and tattoos reached the height of their popularity during the mid-2000s [192] (#cite_note-2000sBeautyTrends-192) but remained a common sight among young people well into the 2010s (/wiki/2010s_in_fashion#Makeup,_Cosmetics_and_body_modifications) . Gallery [ edit ] A selection of images related to the period. Chunky sneakers of the early 2000s. Swedish actors in 2002 sporting various early 2000s fashions and hairstyles. Leeann Tweeden (/wiki/Leeann_Tweeden) , 2003, wearing an off-the-shoulder top and cargo pants. She also sports highlights on her hair. Young woman in 2003 wearing a horizontal striped shirt and boot-cut jeans (/wiki/Bell-bottoms) . Jamaican (/wiki/Jamaicans) woman with cornrows (/wiki/Cornrows) , 2002. British (/wiki/United_Kingdom) " Chav (/wiki/Chav) " wearing tracksuit (/wiki/Tracksuit) and baseball cap (/wiki/Baseball_cap) . The flared jeans (/wiki/Flared_jeans) of the late 1990s remained fashionable throughout the early and mid 2000s. Miranda Kerr (/wiki/Miranda_Kerr) in 2004 modeling for Obar Jeans. English-Australian singer Peter Andre (/wiki/Peter_Andre) in 2004 wearing ripped and sandblasted (/wiki/Sandblasted) baggy jeans (/wiki/Baggy_jeans) influenced by surfer and hip-hop fashion (/wiki/Hip-hop_fashion) . Female tourists in 2005 sporting colorful mid 2000s athletic fashions. Winklepicker boots (/wiki/Winklepicker_boots) fashionable in England, Italy and Mexico from 2005 onwards. Slim-fit tweed (/wiki/Tweed_(cloth)) popular in the late 2000s Girl with curly brown hair sporting an off-the-shoulder top, a carry over from the early 2000s. Paisley handbag associated with the boho-chic (/wiki/Boho-chic) look. German Mosher (/wiki/Moshing) , the more punk-like incarnation of scene, early-mid 2000s. Close-fitting vintage printed T-shirt Slim-fitting plaid Western shirt (/wiki/Western_shirt) gained popularity in the UK in the late 2000s Tattoos and extreme body piercings went mainstream in the late 2000s. Chinese skaters (/wiki/Skate_punk) , 2007. Ecuadorian emo (/wiki/Emo) kids from the late 2000s. Young woman wearing sundress (/wiki/Sundress) and Christian Louboutin (/wiki/Christian_Louboutin) shoes, 2009. Example of the two button slim-fit suit popular in the late 2000s in the UK, US and China. Woman wearing backless top and microskirt (/wiki/Microskirt) at Cologne Pride (/wiki/Cologne_Pride) , 2006. Girl Wearing Low Waisted Pants (/wiki/Low-rise_(fashion)) , 2008 See also [ edit ] 2000s portal (/wiki/Portal:2000s) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Wikimedia Commons has media related to 2000s fashion (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:2000s_fashion) . 2000s (/wiki/2000s) 1970s in fashion (/wiki/1970s_in_fashion) 1980s in fashion (/wiki/1980s_in_fashion) 1990s in fashion (/wiki/1990s_in_fashion) Fashion design (/wiki/Fashion_design) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c Rindfuss, Bryan (30 December 2009). "Arts: What ought to wear" (http://www.sacurrent.com/arts/story.asp?id=70804) . San Antionio Current . Retrieved 30 November 2011 . ^ Jump up to: a b Idacavage, Sara (8 June 2016). "Fashion History Lesson: The Origins of Fast Fashion" (http://fashionista.com/2016/06/what-is-fast-fashion) . Fashionista . Retrieved 9 May 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Wahba, Phil (21 February 2017). "Can America's Department Stores Survive?" 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American illustrator and writer (1911–1986) Evaline Ness Born Evaline Michelow ( 1911-04-24 ) April 24, 1911 Union City, Ohio (/wiki/Union_City,_Ohio) , U.S. Died August 12, 1986 (1986-08-12) (aged 75) Kingston, New York (/wiki/Kingston,_New_York) , U.S. Occupation Illustrator writer Period 1954–1983 1930s–1950s (fashion) Genre Children's picture books young adult fiction (/wiki/Young_adult_fiction) fashion Notable works Sam, Bangs and Moonshine (/wiki/Sam,_Bangs_and_Moonshine) and three Caldecott Medal runners-up The Chronicles of Prydain (/wiki/The_Chronicles_of_Prydain) (covers and maps) Notable awards Caldecott Medal (/wiki/Caldecott_Medal) 1967 Evaline Ness (April 24, 1911 – August 12, 1986) [1] (#cite_note-minnesota-1) was an American commercial artist (/wiki/Commercial_art) , illustrator, and author of children's books. She illustrated more than thirty books for young readers and wrote several of her own. [2] (#cite_note-holt-2) She used a great variety of artistic media (/wiki/Artistic_media) and methods (/wiki/Category:Artistic_techniques) . [1] (#cite_note-minnesota-1) [3] (#cite_note-magicdoor-3) [4] (#cite_note-degrummond-4) As an illustrator of picture books she was one of three Caldecott Medal (/wiki/Caldecott_Medal) runners-up each year from 1964 to 1966 and she won the 1967 Medal for Sam, Bangs and Moonshine (/wiki/Sam,_Bangs_and_Moonshine) , which she also wrote. [5] (#cite_note-caldecott-5) In 1972 she was the U.S. nominee for the biennial, international Hans Christian Andersen Award (/wiki/Hans_Christian_Andersen_Award) for children's illustrators. [6] (#cite_note-ibby-nominee-6) Life [ edit ] Ness was born Evaline Michelow in Union City, Ohio (/wiki/Union_City,_Ohio) and grew up in Pontiac, Michigan (/wiki/Pontiac,_Michigan) . [7] (#cite_note-weeweb-7) As a child she illustrated her older sister's stories with collages (/wiki/Collage) cut from magazine pictures. [3] (#cite_note-magicdoor-3) She studied at Ball State Teachers College (/wiki/Ball_State_Teachers_College) 1931–32 to become a librarian, then at Chicago Art Institute (/wiki/School_of_the_Art_Institute_of_Chicago) 1933–35 to become a fashion illustrator (/wiki/Fashion_illustration) . [4] (#cite_note-degrummond-4) For a while she was also a fashion model. [8] (#cite_note-artist-8) Evaline adopted and retained the name of her second husband Eliot Ness (/wiki/Eliot_Ness) , married 1939 to 1945. [9] (#cite_note-ech-9) She had previously married one McAndrew [9] (#cite_note-ech-9) [10] (#cite_note-csuohio-10) [11] (#cite_note-bergreen-11) and she married engineer Arnold A. Bayard in 1959, who survived her. [12] (#cite_note-nyt-12) In 1938 Eliot Ness was already famous as a former United States Treasury agent (/wiki/United_States_Secret_Service) . (As leader of a legendary team nicknamed " The Untouchables (/wiki/The_Untouchables_(law_enforcement)) " he had worked to enforce Prohibition (/wiki/Prohibition) in Chicago, Illinois (/wiki/Chicago,_Illinois) .) Now he was the recently divorced Safety Director for the city of Cleveland, Ohio (/wiki/Cleveland,_Ohio) , with a new team of Untouchables (men who cannot be bribed). [9] (#cite_note-ech-9) By April 1939, when he cleaned up the Mayfield Road Gang, Ness and Evaline McAndrew were an item in Cleveland, where she was a fashion illustrator at Higbee's department store. [11] (#cite_note-bergreen-11) After their marriage (October 14), they remained an item because she would "keep house—and her job", and because they went out with a female bodyguard for Evaline. A friend of the couple once said that "Evaline liked being Eliot's wife when he was a famous and influential public official. She liked his prominence and power and fame. He loved her, no question about that. He always called her 'Doll'." [11] (#cite_note-bergreen-11) After a 1942 scandal ruined his standing in Cleveland, the Nesses moved to Washington late that year. [a] (#cite_note-DC-13) Evaline studied at the Corcoran College of Art and Design (/wiki/Corcoran_College_of_Art_and_Design) 1943–45 and taught art classes for children there. [1] (#cite_note-minnesota-1) [7] (#cite_note-weeweb-7) Evaline and Ness divorced in 1945. After this, she moved to New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) and worked 1946 to 1949 at Saks Fifth Avenue (/wiki/Saks_Fifth_Avenue) as a fashion illustrator. [12] (#cite_note-nyt-12) Around 1950 she traveled to Europe and Asia, concluding in Italy, where she spent 18 months sketching until her money ran out. [8] (#cite_note-artist-8) In Rome (/wiki/Rome) she studied at Accademia de Belle Arti 1951–52. [1] (#cite_note-minnesota-1) Back in the United States, Ness found no work in San Francisco, so returned to New York and "assignments doing fashion, advertising and editorial art". [8] (#cite_note-artist-8) At some point she studied with the Art Students League (/wiki/Art_Students_League) [1] (#cite_note-minnesota-1) [12] (#cite_note-nyt-12) and she taught art to children at Parsons The New School for Design (/wiki/Parsons_The_New_School_for_Design) 1959–60. [4] (#cite_note-degrummond-4) [7] (#cite_note-weeweb-7) Her first illustrations for publication in a children's book were for Story of Ophelia by Mary J. Gibbons (Doubleday, April 1954) —using "charcoal, crayon, ink, pencil and tempera". [1] (#cite_note-minnesota-1) Kirkus Reviews (/wiki/Kirkus_Reviews) said, "Evaline Ness' color pictures of elongated, human-looking animals express in their flimsiness, a searching quality." [13] (#cite_note-kirkus-14) Although successful as a commercial artist, she focused on children's literature beginning with her second illustrated book, The Bridge by Charlton Ogburn (/wiki/Charlton_Ogburn) (Houghton Mifflin, 1957). [8] (#cite_note-artist-8) Saturday Review (/wiki/Saturday_Review_(US_magazine)) recommended it for teenagers (/wiki/Adolescence) and concluded, "Unusual drawings printed in sea green, gray, and black convey the same moods as the story and add a decorative note to a book which is beautiful in every way." [14] (#cite_note-saturday-15) From 1958 to 1963 she illustrated about a dozen books and produced cover art for others including Island of the Blue Dolphins (/wiki/Island_of_the_Blue_Dolphins) by Scott O'Dell (/wiki/Scott_O%27Dell) (1960). [3] (#cite_note-magicdoor-3) According to Charles Bayless at the bookshop Through the Magic Door, the 1960s were a time of experiment in illustration for children, with some fashion for "drawings with sharp, angular figures, muted colors and representational or cartoon-like styles", which helped Ness to thrive. [3] (#cite_note-magicdoor-3) The first story she both wrote and illustrated was Josefina February (Scribners, 1963), after visiting Haiti for one year. [4] (#cite_note-degrummond-4) It was set in Haiti (/wiki/Haiti) , about a girl’s search for a lost burro, with a series of woodcuts. [15] (#cite_note-birthday-16) Or her first was A Gift for Sula Sula (Scribners, 1963). [1] (#cite_note-minnesota-1) Her three Caldecott Honor Books were published 1963 to 1965: All in the Morning Early by Sorche Nic Leodhas (/wiki/Sorche_Nic_Leodhas) , A Pocketful of Cricket by Rebecca Caudill (/wiki/Rebecca_Caudill) , and Tom Tit Tot: An English Folk Tale retold by Virginia Haviland (/wiki/Virginia_Haviland) . [5] (#cite_note-caldecott-5) She herself wrote the Caldecott-winning Sam, Bangs and Moonshine (/wiki/Sam,_Bangs_and_Moonshine) (1966), about a fisherman's daughter, illustrated with line and wash drawings. [12] (#cite_note-nyt-12) "Sam" (Samantha) tells lies or "moonshine", which finally endanger her pet cat "Bangs" and a neighbor boy; she learns responsibility for what she says. [1] (#cite_note-minnesota-1) [3] (#cite_note-magicdoor-3) About this time, Ness did the colorful front and back covers and the maps of Prydain for the popular series by Lloyd Alexander (/wiki/Lloyd_Alexander) , The Chronicles of Prydain (/wiki/The_Chronicles_of_Prydain) (1964 to 1968). Meanwhile, there were two Prydain picture books (/wiki/Picture_book) that she illustrated. [16] (#cite_note-isfdb-17) Late in life Ness experimented with cut-out coloring books such as Four Rooms From The Metropolitan Museum of Art To Cut Out and Color (1977). [1] (#cite_note-minnesota-1) Her last illustrated book was The Hand-Me-Down Doll by Steven Kroll (/wiki/Steven_Kroll) (1983) —using pencil, watercolor, ink and charcoal. [1] (#cite_note-minnesota-1) [3] (#cite_note-magicdoor-3) Ness lived in New York at least to 1967. [17] (#cite_note-holt1967-18) She died 1986 in Kingston, New York (/wiki/Kingston,_New_York) , then a resident of Palm Beach, Florida (/wiki/Palm_Beach,_Florida) . [12] (#cite_note-nyt-12) According to Eliot Ness's biographer, Evaline was cremated and her ashes unceremoniously disposed of by her alienated third husband, an engineer named Arnold Bayard. [18] (#cite_note-Perry-19) Evaline was buried in Snow Cemetery located in Truro, Barnstable County Massachusetts. Legacy [ edit ] "Evaline Ness Papers" at the University of Minnesota (/wiki/University_of_Minnesota) is a collection of "manuscript and illustrative material" for twenty books published 1954 to 1983. [1] (#cite_note-minnesota-1) According to that archive, [Ness] was noted for her ability to work in a variety of media and her innovative and unique illustrations that interweaved text and pictures to create a story that captured a young child's attention and imagination. This talent is especially evident in her own written works with their girl protagonists and subtle stories that have a backdrop of 'feminism' and present 'real' characters learning about all of life's pleasures, problems, and pains. "Evaline Ness Papers" at the Free Library of Philadelphia (/wiki/Free_Library_of_Philadelphia) is a collection of work "for the books Coll and His White Pig , The Truthful Harp , The Black Cauldron (/wiki/The_Black_Cauldron_(novel)) , The Castle of Llyr (/wiki/The_Castle_of_Llyr) , Taran Wanderer (/wiki/Taran_Wanderer) , The High King (/wiki/The_High_King) , and Old Mother Hubbard and Her Dog . [19] (#cite_note-20) According to that archive, This collection contains dummies, sketches, paste-ups, preliminary and finished artwork, and color separations for eight books illustrated by Evaline Ness. "Evaline Ness Papers" at the University of Southern Mississippi (/wiki/University_of_Southern_Mississippi) is two boxes of material from her illustrations of four stories written by other authors, published 1965 to 1975. [4] (#cite_note-degrummond-4) According to that archive, Because printer's ink is flat, Ness' constant concern was how to get texture into that flatness. The primary challenge in illustrating children's books, she believed, was how to maintain freedom within limitation. Some of the techniques she has used to combat these limitations include woodcut, serigraphy, rubber-roller technique, ink splattering, and sometimes spitting. See also [ edit ] Children's literature portal (/wiki/Portal:Children%27s_literature) Portals (/wiki/Wikipedia:Contents/Portals) : Children's literature (/wiki/Portal:Children%27s_literature) Fashion (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Visual arts (/wiki/Portal:Visual_arts) Notes [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-DC_13-0) Eliot Ness pursued his personal battle against venereal disease (/wiki/Venereal_disease) in the Department of Social Protection, focusing on prostitution (/wiki/Prostitution) in communities surrounding military bases. Sources: Laurence Bergreen; Encyclopedia of Cleveland History . References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f g h i j k "Evaline Ness Papers" (http://special.lib.umn.edu/findaid/xml/CLRC-60.xml) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20060705225250/http://special.lib.umn.edu/findaid/xml/CLRC-60.xml) July 5, 2006, at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) . The Children's Literature research collections. University of Minnesota. Retrieved January 12, 2012. ^ (#cite_ref-holt_2-0) "Evaline Ness" (http://us.macmillan.com/author/evalineness) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20120929234045/http://us.macmillan.com/author/evalineness) September 29, 2012, at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) . Macmillan USA ( Henry Holt Books for Young Readers (/wiki/Henry_Holt_and_Company) ). Retrieved January 11, 2012. ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f "Evaline Ness" (http://blog.moonshadowecommerce.com/WEBLOG-NAME/Featured_Author/2008/06/evaline_ness.html) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20160303221412/http://blog.moonshadowecommerce.com/WEBLOG-NAME/Featured_Author/2008/06/evaline_ness.html) March 3, 2016, at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) . Charles Bayless, June 29, 2008. Through the Magic Door (bookshop): Featured Artist. Retrieved January 12, 2012. ^ Jump up to: a b c d e "Evaline Ness Papers" (http://www.lib.usm.edu/legacy/degrum/public_html/html/research/findaids/ness.htm) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20160303204249/http://www.lib.usm.edu/legacy/degrum/public_html/html/research/findaids/ness.htm) March 3, 2016, at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) . de Grummond Children's Literature Collection (/wiki/De_Grummond_Children%27s_Literature_Collection) . The University of Southern Mississippi Libraries. Retrieved June 22, 2013. With biographical sketch. ^ Jump up to: a b "Caldecott Medal & Honor Books, 1938–Present" (http://www.ala.org/alsc/awardsgrants/bookmedia/caldecottmedal/caldecotthonors/caldecottmedal) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20161011224610/http://www.ala.org/alsc/awardsgrants/bookmedia/caldecottmedal/caldecotthonors/caldecottmedal) October 11, 2016, at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) . Association for Library Service to Children (/wiki/Association_for_Library_Service_to_Children) (ALSC). American Library Association (ALA). "The Randolph Caldecott Medal" (http://www.ala.org/alsc/awardsgrants/bookmedia/caldecottmedal/aboutcaldecott/aboutcaldecott) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20161018230627/http://www.ala.org/alsc/awardsgrants/bookmedia/caldecottmedal/aboutcaldecott/aboutcaldecott) October 18, 2016, at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) . ALSC. ALA. Retrieved 2013-07-15. ^ (#cite_ref-ibby-nominee_6-0) "Candidates for the Hans Christian Andersen Awards 1956–2002" (https://archive.today/20130114185952/http://www.literature.at/viewer.alo?objid=14769&viewmode=fullscreen&scale=3.33&rotate=&page=105) . The Hans Christian Andersen Awards, 1956–2002 . IBBY (/wiki/IBBY) . Gyldendal (/wiki/Gyldendal) . 2002. Pages 110–18. Hosted by Austrian Literature Online (/wiki/Austrian_Literature_Online) (literature.at). Retrieved July 15, 2013. ^ Jump up to: a b c "Evaline Ness" (http://www.theweeweb.co.uk/public/author_profile.php?id=872) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20110716063031/http://www.theweeweb.co.uk/public/author_profile.php?id=872) July 16, 2011, at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) . The Wee Web: authors & illustrators archive . Retrieved December 28, 2011. ^ Jump up to: a b c d "Female Illustrators of the 50s: Evaline Ness" (http://todaysinspiration.blogspot.com/2009/08/female-illustrators-of-50s-evaline-ness.html) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20141126002326/http://todaysinspiration.blogspot.com/2009/08/female-illustrators-of-50s-evaline-ness.html) November 26, 2014, at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) . Leif Peng (blog), August 31, 2009. Based on a feature article in American Artist (/wiki/The_Artist%27s_Magazine) , January 1956; in turn illustrated by Ness illustrations from Good Housekeeping (/wiki/Good_Housekeeping) , 1951. Peng promotes the blog to "those interested in illustration from the '40s and '50s" and notes that the profession was dominated by men but not entirely. ^ Jump up to: a b c "Ness, Eliot" (http://ech.case.edu/ech-cgi/article.pl?id=NE) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20140811130901/http://ech.case.edu/ech-cgi/article.pl?id=NE) August 11, 2014, at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) . Encyclopedia of Cleveland History. Case Western Reserve University and the Western Reserve Historical Society. Retrieved January 12, 2012. ^ (#cite_ref-csuohio_10-0) "Evaline Ness" (https://archive.today/20121210103707/http://images.ulib.csuohio.edu/cdm4/item_viewer.php?CISOROOT=/press&CISOPTR=103&CISOBOX=1&REC=5) (1939 photo). Cleveland Press collection. The Cleveland Memory Project. Cleveland State University. Retrieved January 27, 2012. ^ Jump up to: a b c Laurence Bergreen. Capone: The Man and His Era . Simon & Schuster. 1996. Pages 599–600. ^ Jump up to: a b c d e "Evaline Ness Bayard Is Dead; Wrote and Illustrated Books" (https://www.nytimes.com/1986/08/14/obituaries/evaline-ness-bayard-is-dead-wrote-and-illustrated-books.html) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20160307031418/http://www.nytimes.com/1986/08/14/obituaries/evaline-ness-bayard-is-dead-wrote-and-illustrated-books.html) March 7, 2016, at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) . The New York Times , August 14, 1986. Retrieved January 12, 2012. ^ (#cite_ref-kirkus_14-0) "THE STORY OF OPHELIA By Mary Gibbons" (http://www.kirkusreviews.com/book-reviews/mary-gibbons/the-story-of-ophelia/#review) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20160305192549/http://www.kirkusreviews.com/book-reviews/mary-gibbons/the-story-of-ophelia/#review) March 5, 2016, at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) . Kirkus Reviews . Retrieved January 12, 2012. ^ (#cite_ref-saturday_15-0) "Fall Guide to Children's Books: For the Teen-Ager". Specific review by H.A.M. Saturday Review , November 16, 1957, p. 88–92. Reprint at " The Bridge (1957) By Charlton Ogburn". ^ (#cite_ref-birthday_16-0) "Birthday Bios: Evaline Ness" (http://www.childrensliteraturenetwork.org/birthbios/brthpage/04apr/4-24ness.html) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20091211071211/http://www.childrensliteraturenetwork.org/birthbios/brthpage/04apr/4-24ness.html) December 11, 2009, at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) . No date. Karen Ritz. Children's Literature Network. (c) 2002–2008. Retrieved December 28, 2011. ^ (#cite_ref-isfdb_17-0) Evaline Ness (https://www.isfdb.org/cgi-bin/ea.cgi?26784) at the Internet Speculative Fiction Database (/wiki/Internet_Speculative_Fiction_Database) (ISFDB). Retrieved December 28, 2011. The picture books were Coll and His White Pig ( isfdb (https://archive.today/20130717081704/http://www.isfdb.org/cgi-bin/pl.cgi?7517) ) and The Truthful Harp ( isfdb (https://archive.today/20130717081703/http://www.isfdb.org/cgi-bin/pl.cgi?48900) ). ^ (#cite_ref-holt1967_18-0) Lloyd Alexander, The Truthful Harp (Holt, Rinehart and Winston, 1967), illustrated by Evaline Ness. OCLC 297069. Back endpapers (/wiki/Endpaper) : publisher's notes about the author, illustrator, and book. ^ (#cite_ref-Perry_19-0) Perry, Douglas (2014). Eliot Ness: The Rise and Fall of an American Hero . New York, NY: Viking/Penguin Group. p. 291. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-0-670-02588-6 . ^ (#cite_ref-20) "Children's Literature Research Collection" (http://libwww.freelibrary.org/collections/collectionDetail.cfm?id=3) . Free Library of Philadelphia . Retrieved November 23, 2015 . External links [ edit ] Evaline Ness (https://www.isfdb.org/cgi-bin/ea.cgi?26784) at the Internet Speculative Fiction Database (/wiki/Internet_Speculative_Fiction_Database) Evaline Ness (http://lccn.loc.gov/n80005686) at Library of Congress (/wiki/Library_of_Congress) Authorities — with 46 catalog records Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) International FAST (http://id.worldcat.org/fast/48781/) ISNI (https://isni.org/isni/0000000081471680) VIAF (https://viaf.org/viaf/66987616) WorldCat (https://id.oclc.org/worldcat/entity/E39PBJw8RKqqTDvy4gXmPqt9Xd) National Norway (https://authority.bibsys.no/authority/rest/authorities/html/90857303) Germany (https://d-nb.info/gnd/102358350X) Israel (http://olduli.nli.org.il/F/?func=find-b&local_base=NLX10&find_code=UID&request=987007373824805171) United States (https://id.loc.gov/authorities/n80005686) Japan (https://id.ndl.go.jp/auth/ndlna/00451146) Australia (https://nla.gov.au/anbd.aut-an35380270) Korea (https://lod.nl.go.kr/resource/KAC200000206) Netherlands (http://data.bibliotheken.nl/id/thes/p071464875) Academics CiNii (https://ci.nii.ac.jp/author/DA08436305?l=en) Other SNAC (https://snaccooperative.org/ark:/99166/w68s8w6q) IdRef (https://www.idref.fr/236618202) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐5b8f7f4b65‐df92l Cached time: 20240623123346 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.416 seconds Real time usage: 0.610 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 2224/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 32721/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 3852/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 20/100 Expensive parser function count: 21/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 38319/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.244/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 5467234/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 559.585 1 -total 27.80% 155.585 2 Template:Reflist 23.76% 132.942 1 Template:Infobox_writer 22.93% 128.327 1 Template:Infobox 16.74% 93.650 1 Template:Cite_book 16.32% 91.331 1 Template:Authority_control 14.03% 78.500 1 Template:Short_description 9.91% 55.447 3 Template:Br_separated_entries 7.61% 42.599 2 Template:Pagetype 6.59% 36.888 1 Template:Portal_bar Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:4372792-0!canonical and timestamp 20240623123346 and revision id 1210612113. 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Schools to teach lace-making until 19th century Lace schools were common in Great Britain (/wiki/Great_Britain) and Ireland (/wiki/Ireland) from the 17th to 19th century to teach lace-making (/wiki/Lace-making) . Lace schools were often the living rooms of small cottages (/wiki/Cottages) and were known for being overcrowded, badly lit and often unsanitary. Girls and some boys were put to work at the age of six or seven and spent long hours bent over their pillows, learning the craft (/wiki/Craft) , until they could produce a marketable product. Some of the children were also taught elementary reading, but there was little other general education (/wiki/Education) . External links [ edit ] Greensnortonvillage.co.uk - History - Lace Making in Greens Norton (https://web.archive.org/web/20060313162023/http://www.greensnortonvillage.co.uk/pages/historypt5.htm) (archived 2006) Laceschool.com - History - Erris Lace Schools (https://www.laceschool.com/history.php) v t e Lace (/wiki/Lace) types Needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Punto in Aria (/wiki/Punto_in_Aria) Point de Venise (/wiki/Point_de_Venise) Point de France (/wiki/Point_de_France) Alençon (/wiki/Alen%C3%A7on_lace) Aemilia Ars (/w/index.php?title=Aemilia_Ars&action=edit&redlink=1) Argentan (/wiki/Argentan_lace) Argentella (/wiki/Argentella) Armenian (/wiki/Armenian_needlelace) Burano (https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merletto%20di%20Burano) Halas lace (/wiki/Halas_lace) Hedebo embroidery (/wiki/Hedebo_embroidery) Hollie Point (/wiki/Hollie_Point) Nallıhan (/wiki/Nall%C4%B1han_silk_needlelace) Point de Gaze (/wiki/Point_de_Gaze) Kenmare Lace (/wiki/Kenmare_lace) Ñandutí (/wiki/%C3%91andut%C3%AD) Oya (/wiki/Oya_(lace)) Pag (/wiki/Pag_lace) Puncetto Valsesiano (/w/index.php?title=Puncetto_Valsesiano&action=edit&redlink=1) Tenerife (/wiki/Tenerife_lace) Youghal (/wiki/Youghal_lace) Embroidery (/wiki/Embroidery) Buratto (/wiki/Buratto) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Reticella (/wiki/Reticella) Limerick (/wiki/Limerick_lace) Needlerun net (/wiki/Needlerun_net) Tambour (/wiki/Tambour_lace) Cutwork (/wiki/Cutwork) Broderie anglaise (/wiki/Broderie_anglaise) Carrickmacross (/wiki/Carrickmacross_lace) Lefkara lace (/wiki/Lefkara_lace) Saba lace (/wiki/Saba_lace) Bobbin lace (/wiki/Bobbin_lace) Mesh grounds (/wiki/Mesh_grounded_bobbin_lace) Torchon (/wiki/Torchon_lace) Freehand (/wiki/Freehand_lace) Arras (/wiki/Arras_lace) Bayeux (/wiki/Bayeux_lace) Beeralu (/w/index.php?title=Beeralu&action=edit&redlink=1) Blonde (/wiki/Blonde_lace) Bucks point (/wiki/Bucks_point_lace) Chantilly (/wiki/Chantilly_lace) Chefoo (/w/index.php?title=Chefoo_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Cogne (/wiki/Cogne_lace) Tønder (/wiki/T%C3%B8nder_lace) Beveren (/wiki/Beveren_lace) Lille (/wiki/Lille_lace) Binche (/wiki/Binche_lace) Flanders (/wiki/Flanders_lace) Paris (/wiki/Paris_lace) Valenciennes (/wiki/Valenciennes_lace) Antwerp (/wiki/Antwerp_lace) Mechlin (/wiki/Mechlin_lace) Ipswich (/wiki/Ipswich_lace) 's Gravenmoer (/w/index.php?title=%27s_Gravenmoer_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Mundillo (/wiki/Mundillo) Guipure (/wiki/Guipure) Greek (/wiki/Greek_lace) Genoese (/wiki/Genoese_lace) Bedfordshire (/wiki/Bedfordshire_lace) Cluny (/wiki/Cluny_lace) Dentelle du Puy (https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dentelle_du_Puy) Liptov (/wiki/Liptov) Maltese (/wiki/Maltese_lace) Yak lace (/wiki/Yak_lace) Part laces (/wiki/Part_lace) Honiton (/wiki/Honiton_lace) Bruges (/wiki/Bruges_lace) Brussels (/wiki/Brussels_lace) Rosaline (/wiki/Rosaline_lace) Point d'Angleterre (/wiki/Brussels_lace#Point_d'Angleterre) Tape (/wiki/Bobbin_tape_lace) Cantù (/w/index.php?title=Cant%C3%B9_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Milanese (/wiki/Milanese_bobbin_lace) Hinojosa (/w/index.php?title=Hinojosa_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Russian (/wiki/Russian_lace) Idrija (/wiki/Idrija_lace) Schneeberg (/wiki/Schneeberg_lace) Peasant (/w/index.php?title=Peasant_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Tape lace (/wiki/Tape_lace) Mezzopunto (/w/index.php?title=Mezzopunto&action=edit&redlink=1) Princess (/wiki/Princess_lace) Renaissance (/wiki/Renaissance_lace) Battenberg (/wiki/Battenberg_lace) Romanian point (/wiki/Romanian_point_lace) Branscombe (/wiki/Branscombe_lace) Crocheted lace (/wiki/Crocheted_lace) Broomstick lace (/wiki/Broomstick_lace) Irish crochet (/wiki/Irish_lace) Hairpin (/wiki/Hairpin_lace) Filet crochet (/wiki/Filet_crochet) Orvieto lace (/w/index.php?title=Orvieto_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Machine (/wiki/Lace_machine) -made lace Bobbinet (/wiki/Bobbinet) Leavers (/wiki/Leavers_machine) Pusher (/wiki/Pusher_machine) Barmen (/wiki/Barmen_lace_machine) Curtain Machine (/wiki/Nottingham_lace_curtain_machine) Chemical (/wiki/Chemical_lace) Raschel (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Stocking Frame (/wiki/Stocking_frame) Warp Knit (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Other handmade laces Metal laces (/wiki/Metal_lace) Lace knitting (/wiki/Lace_knitting) Macramé (/wiki/Macram%C3%A9) Tatting (/wiki/Tatting) Punto a groppo (/wiki/Punto_a_groppo) Sprang (/wiki/Sprang) Liturgical lace (/wiki/Liturgical_lace) Media related to Lace (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Lace) at Wikimedia Commons Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Clothing portal (/wiki/Portal:Clothing) This article relating to education in the UK is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . You can help Wikipedia by expanding it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Lace_school&action=edit) . v t e This textile arts (/wiki/Textile_arts) article is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . 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Precursor to bobbin lace 1902 illustration of punto a groppo Punto a groppo (Italian, "knotted lace") [1] (#cite_note-1) is type of lace (/wiki/Lace) made without bobbins (/wiki/Bobbin_lace#Bobbins) (weights). It originated in Italy, possibly Milan (/wiki/Milan) , [2] (#cite_note-2) in the 16th century and usually incorporated geometric patterns. It is the precursor to bobbin lace (/wiki/Bobbin_lace) . [3] (#cite_note-3) Remaining samples of this lace are rare. [4] (#cite_note-Earnshaw-4) Punto a groppo was typically used for edging. Although related to macramé (/wiki/Macram%C3%A9) , [5] (#cite_note-5) [6] (#cite_note-6) which is knotted by hand, punto a groppo was likely created with a needle. [4] (#cite_note-Earnshaw-4) [7] (#cite_note-7) Punto a groppo was also called gropo, gruppo, gropari, [4] (#cite_note-Earnshaw-4) and point noué . [8] (#cite_note-8) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Picken, Mary Brooks (2013). A Dictionary of Costume and Fashion, Historic and Modern . Dover Publications. p. 266. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780486141602 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) Earnshaw, Pat (1999). A Dictionary of Lace . Courier Corporation. p. 75. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780486404820 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) " (https://www.britannica.com/art/punto-a-groppo) Punto a groppo " (https://www.britannica.com/art/punto-a-groppo) . Encyclopædia Britannica (/wiki/Encyclop%C3%A6dia_Britannica) . 2016-11-02. Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20190929012933/https://www.britannica.com/art/punto-a-groppo) from the original on September 29, 2019 . Retrieved 2021-03-24 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Earnshaw, Pat (1999). A Dictionary of Lace . Courier Corporation. p. 74. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780486404820 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Clifford, Chandler R. (1913). The Lace Dictionary . Clifford & Lawton. p. 70. ^ (#cite_ref-6) Countess di Brazzà (1893). A Guide to Old and New Lace in Italy, Exhibited at Chicago in 1893 . W.B. Conkey Company. p. 11. ^ (#cite_ref-7) Simeon, Margaret (1979). The History of Lace . Stainer and Bell. p. 139. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9780852494455 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) Meyer, Franz Sales (1900). A Handbook of Ornament . ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 9781171715481 . v t e Lace (/wiki/Lace) types Needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Punto in Aria (/wiki/Punto_in_Aria) Point de Venise (/wiki/Point_de_Venise) Point de France (/wiki/Point_de_France) Alençon (/wiki/Alen%C3%A7on_lace) Aemilia Ars (/w/index.php?title=Aemilia_Ars&action=edit&redlink=1) Argentan (/wiki/Argentan_lace) Argentella (/wiki/Argentella) Armenian (/wiki/Armenian_needlelace) Burano (https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merletto%20di%20Burano) Halas lace (/wiki/Halas_lace) Hedebo embroidery (/wiki/Hedebo_embroidery) Hollie Point (/wiki/Hollie_Point) Nallıhan (/wiki/Nall%C4%B1han_silk_needlelace) Point de Gaze (/wiki/Point_de_Gaze) Kenmare Lace (/wiki/Kenmare_lace) Ñandutí (/wiki/%C3%91andut%C3%AD) Oya (/wiki/Oya_(lace)) Pag (/wiki/Pag_lace) Puncetto Valsesiano (/w/index.php?title=Puncetto_Valsesiano&action=edit&redlink=1) Tenerife (/wiki/Tenerife_lace) Youghal (/wiki/Youghal_lace) Embroidery (/wiki/Embroidery) Buratto (/wiki/Buratto) Filet lace (/wiki/Filet_lace) Reticella (/wiki/Reticella) Limerick (/wiki/Limerick_lace) Needlerun net (/wiki/Needlerun_net) Tambour (/wiki/Tambour_lace) Cutwork (/wiki/Cutwork) Broderie anglaise (/wiki/Broderie_anglaise) Carrickmacross (/wiki/Carrickmacross_lace) Lefkara lace (/wiki/Lefkara_lace) Saba lace (/wiki/Saba_lace) Bobbin lace (/wiki/Bobbin_lace) Mesh grounds (/wiki/Mesh_grounded_bobbin_lace) Torchon (/wiki/Torchon_lace) Freehand (/wiki/Freehand_lace) Arras (/wiki/Arras_lace) Bayeux (/wiki/Bayeux_lace) Beeralu (/w/index.php?title=Beeralu&action=edit&redlink=1) Blonde (/wiki/Blonde_lace) Bucks point (/wiki/Bucks_point_lace) Chantilly (/wiki/Chantilly_lace) Chefoo (/w/index.php?title=Chefoo_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Cogne (/wiki/Cogne_lace) Tønder (/wiki/T%C3%B8nder_lace) Beveren (/wiki/Beveren_lace) Lille (/wiki/Lille_lace) Binche (/wiki/Binche_lace) Flanders (/wiki/Flanders_lace) Paris (/wiki/Paris_lace) Valenciennes (/wiki/Valenciennes_lace) Antwerp (/wiki/Antwerp_lace) Mechlin (/wiki/Mechlin_lace) Ipswich (/wiki/Ipswich_lace) 's Gravenmoer (/w/index.php?title=%27s_Gravenmoer_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Mundillo (/wiki/Mundillo) Guipure (/wiki/Guipure) Greek (/wiki/Greek_lace) Genoese (/wiki/Genoese_lace) Bedfordshire (/wiki/Bedfordshire_lace) Cluny (/wiki/Cluny_lace) Dentelle du Puy (https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dentelle_du_Puy) Liptov (/wiki/Liptov) Maltese (/wiki/Maltese_lace) Yak lace (/wiki/Yak_lace) Part laces (/wiki/Part_lace) Honiton (/wiki/Honiton_lace) Bruges (/wiki/Bruges_lace) Brussels (/wiki/Brussels_lace) Rosaline (/wiki/Rosaline_lace) Point d'Angleterre (/wiki/Brussels_lace#Point_d'Angleterre) Tape (/wiki/Bobbin_tape_lace) Cantù (/w/index.php?title=Cant%C3%B9_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Milanese (/wiki/Milanese_bobbin_lace) Hinojosa (/w/index.php?title=Hinojosa_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Russian (/wiki/Russian_lace) Idrija (/wiki/Idrija_lace) Schneeberg (/wiki/Schneeberg_lace) Peasant (/w/index.php?title=Peasant_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Tape lace (/wiki/Tape_lace) Mezzopunto (/w/index.php?title=Mezzopunto&action=edit&redlink=1) Princess (/wiki/Princess_lace) Renaissance (/wiki/Renaissance_lace) Battenberg (/wiki/Battenberg_lace) Romanian point (/wiki/Romanian_point_lace) Branscombe (/wiki/Branscombe_lace) Crocheted lace (/wiki/Crocheted_lace) Broomstick lace (/wiki/Broomstick_lace) Irish crochet (/wiki/Irish_lace) Hairpin (/wiki/Hairpin_lace) Filet crochet (/wiki/Filet_crochet) Orvieto lace (/w/index.php?title=Orvieto_lace&action=edit&redlink=1) Machine (/wiki/Lace_machine) -made lace Bobbinet (/wiki/Bobbinet) Leavers (/wiki/Leavers_machine) Pusher (/wiki/Pusher_machine) Barmen (/wiki/Barmen_lace_machine) Curtain Machine (/wiki/Nottingham_lace_curtain_machine) Chemical (/wiki/Chemical_lace) Raschel (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Stocking Frame (/wiki/Stocking_frame) Warp Knit (/wiki/Warp_knitting) Other handmade laces Metal laces (/wiki/Metal_lace) Lace knitting (/wiki/Lace_knitting) Macramé (/wiki/Macram%C3%A9) Tatting (/wiki/Tatting) Punto a groppo Sprang (/wiki/Sprang) Liturgical lace (/wiki/Liturgical_lace) Media related to Lace (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Lace) at Wikimedia Commons Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Clothing portal (/wiki/Portal:Clothing) This textile arts (/wiki/Textile_arts) article is a stub (/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub) . 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2006 film by David Frankel The Devil Wears Prada Theatrical release poster Directed by David Frankel (/wiki/David_Frankel) Screenplay by Aline Brosh McKenna (/wiki/Aline_Brosh_McKenna) Based on The Devil Wears Prada (/wiki/The_Devil_Wears_Prada_(novel)) by Lauren Weisberger (/wiki/Lauren_Weisberger) Produced by Wendy Finerman (/wiki/Wendy_Finerman) Starring Meryl Streep (/wiki/Meryl_Streep) Anne Hathaway (/wiki/Anne_Hathaway) Stanley Tucci (/wiki/Stanley_Tucci) Simon Baker (/wiki/Simon_Baker) Emily Blunt (/wiki/Emily_Blunt) Adrian Grenier (/wiki/Adrian_Grenier) Cinematography Florian Ballhaus (/wiki/Florian_Ballhaus) Edited by Mark Livolsi (/wiki/Mark_Livolsi) Music by Theodore Shapiro (/wiki/Theodore_Shapiro_(composer)) Production companies Fox 2000 Pictures (/wiki/Fox_2000_Pictures) Wendy Finerman (/wiki/Wendy_Finerman) Productions Dune Entertainment (/wiki/Dune_Entertainment) Distributed by 20th Century Fox (/wiki/20th_Century_Fox) Release dates June 22, 2006 ( 2006-06-22 ) ( Los Angeles (/wiki/LA_Film_Festival) ) June 30, 2006 ( 2006-06-30 ) (United States) Running time 109 minutes Country United States Language English Budget $35–41 million [1] (#cite_note-boxofficemojo-1) [2] (#cite_note-Indiewire_anniversary_piece_2-2) Box office $326.7 million [1] (#cite_note-boxofficemojo-1) The Devil Wears Prada is a 2006 American comedy-drama (/wiki/Comedy-drama) film directed by David Frankel (/wiki/David_Frankel) and produced by Wendy Finerman (/wiki/Wendy_Finerman) . The screenplay, written by Aline Brosh McKenna (/wiki/Aline_Brosh_McKenna) , is based on the 2003 novel (/wiki/The_Devil_Wears_Prada_(novel)) by Lauren Weisberger (/wiki/Lauren_Weisberger) . The film stars Meryl Streep (/wiki/Meryl_Streep) , Anne Hathaway (/wiki/Anne_Hathaway) , Stanley Tucci (/wiki/Stanley_Tucci) , and Emily Blunt (/wiki/Emily_Blunt) . In 2003, 20th Century Fox (/wiki/20th_Century_Fox) bought the rights to a film adaptation of Weisberger's novel before it was completed for publication; the project was not greenlit (/wiki/Green-light) until Streep was cast in the lead role. Principal photography (/wiki/Principal_photography) lasted 57 days, primarily taking place in New York City from October to December 2005. Additional filming was done in Paris (/wiki/Paris) , France. After premiering at the LA Film Festival (/wiki/LA_Film_Festival) on June 22, 2006, [3] (#cite_note-3) The Devil Wears Prada was theatrically released in the United States on June 30. The film received positive reviews from critics, with Streep's performance receiving widespread critical acclaim, thus earning her numerous awards and nominations, including the Golden Globe Award for Best Actress – Motion Picture Comedy or Musical (/wiki/Golden_Globe_Award_for_Best_Actress_%E2%80%93_Motion_Picture_Comedy_or_Musical) and nominations for the Academy Award for Best Actress (/wiki/Academy_Award_for_Best_Actress) and the Screen Actors Guild Award for Outstanding Performance by a Female Actor in a Leading Role (/wiki/Screen_Actors_Guild_Award_for_Outstanding_Performance_by_a_Female_Actor_in_a_Leading_Role) . Hathaway and Blunt also drew favorable reviews and various nominations for their performances. The film grossed over $326 million worldwide, against its $41 million budget, and was the 12th highest-grossing film worldwide in 2006. Although the film is set in the fashion world, and references well-known establishments and people within that industry, most designers and other fashion notables avoided appearing as themselves for fear of displeasing US Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) editor Anna Wintour (/wiki/Anna_Wintour) , who is widely believed to have been the inspiration for Priestly. [4] (#cite_note-IndieWire_2022_story-4) [5] (#cite_note-E!_2022_story-5) Wintour later overcame her initial skepticism, saying she liked the film and Streep in particular. [6] (#cite_note-Barbara_Walters-6) Plot [ edit ] Aspiring journalist Andrea "Andy" Sachs has recently graduated from Northwestern University (/wiki/Northwestern_University) and lands a job as a junior personal assistant to Miranda Priestly (/wiki/Miranda_Priestly) , the editor-in-chief of Runway magazine. Despite her lack of knowledge of the fashion industry, Andy plans to put up with Miranda's abusive treatment for at least a year in the hopes of using her connections from Runway to find a job more focused on journalism. Andy fits in poorly with her gossipy, fashion-forward co-workers, especially Miranda's senior assistant Emily Charlton, and struggles to fulfill Miranda's irrational demands, such as booking a flight home from Florida during a hurricane (/wiki/Hurricane) and obtaining an unpublished manuscript of a Harry Potter (/wiki/Harry_Potter) novel for her twin daughters. After a dress trial meeting during which Miranda berates her in front of the entire team, Andy approaches Runway' s art director Nigel for advice, and he helps her select stylish clothes to wear to work. Noticing Andy's change in appearance and increased commitment to the job, Miranda begins to delegate more complicated and important tasks to her. As Andy becomes more glamorous and absorbs the Runway philosophy, she gradually outperforms Emily, who yearns to attend Paris Fashion Week (/wiki/Paris_Fashion_Week) as Miranda's assistant and, in preparation for the event, adheres to extreme diets that endanger her health. When Emily arrives to work while sick and forgets important details about the guests at a charity benefit, Andy steps in to save Miranda from embarrassment. Miranda then selects Andy to be her assistant at Paris Fashion Week instead of Emily. Emily is later hit by a car; while visiting her in the hospital, Andy informs Emily of Miranda's changed plan, much to Emily's consternation. Andy's boyfriend, Nate, breaks up with her, disappointed that she has become one of the shallow, egoistical women she once ridiculed. In Paris, Andy learns that Miranda's husband has filed for divorce. Later that night, Nigel tells Andy that he has accepted a job as creative director with rising designer James Holt. She spends the night with an attractive writer, Christian Thompson, who tells her that Jacqueline Follet is set to replace Miranda as editor of Runway . Andy attempts to warn Miranda, but Miranda dismisses her. At a luncheon later that day, Miranda announces Jacqueline as Holt's new creative director, much to Andy and Nigel's shock. Later, Miranda reveals that she already knew of the plot to replace her, and sacrificed Nigel to keep her own job. Andy is repulsed by Miranda's betrayal of her friend, but Miranda points out that Andy did the thing same to Emily by agreeing to accompany Miranda to Paris. Not wanting to turn into the type of person Miranda is, Andy quits her job and storms off. When Miranda tries calling her, Andy tosses her phone into the Fontaine de la Concorde (/wiki/Fontaines_de_la_Concorde) . Some time later, Andy meets up with Nate, who tells her he has a new job as a sous-chef (/wiki/Sous-chef) in Boston, and they agree to keep in touch as friends. The same day, she has an interview at a major New York newspaper. The editor recounts that when he called Runway for a reference, Miranda told him that Andy was the biggest disappointment she ever had as an assistant, but that he would be an idiot not to hire her. After getting the job, Andy calls Emily and offers her the clothes she obtained in Paris. While walking past the Runway office building, Andy sees Miranda and waves at her. Miranda does not acknowledge Andy, but smiles to herself once she is seated in her car. Cast [ edit ] Meryl Streep (/wiki/Meryl_Streep) as Miranda Priestly (/wiki/Miranda_Priestly) Anne Hathaway (/wiki/Anne_Hathaway) as Andrea "Andy" Sachs Emily Blunt (/wiki/Emily_Blunt) as Emily Charlton Stanley Tucci (/wiki/Stanley_Tucci) as Nigel Kipling Simon Baker (/wiki/Simon_Baker) as Christian Thompson Adrian Grenier (/wiki/Adrian_Grenier) as Nate Cooper Gisele Bündchen (/wiki/Gisele_B%C3%BCndchen) as Serena Tracie Thoms (/wiki/Tracie_Thoms) as Lily Rich Sommer (/wiki/Rich_Sommer) as Doug Daniel Sunjata (/wiki/Daniel_Sunjata) as James Holt James Naughton (/wiki/James_Naughton) as Stephen Colleen Dengel as Caroline Priestly Suzanne Dengel as Cassidy Priestly David Marshall Grant (/wiki/David_Marshall_Grant) as Richard Sachs Tibor Feldman (/wiki/Tibor_Feldman) as Irv Ravitz Rebecca Mader (/wiki/Rebecca_Mader) as Jocelyn Alyssa Sutherland (/wiki/Alyssa_Sutherland) as Clacker Ines Rivero (/wiki/Ines_Rivero) as Clacker at elevator Stéphanie Szostak (/wiki/St%C3%A9phanie_Szostak) as Jacqueline Follet David Callegati as Massimo Paul Keany as St. Regis Doorman Cameos [ edit ] Valentino Garavani (/wiki/Valentino_Garavani) Giancarlo Giammetti (/wiki/Giancarlo_Giammetti) Carlos de Souza Bridget Hall (/wiki/Bridget_Hall) Lauren Weisberger (/wiki/Lauren_Weisberger) as the twins' nanny Robert Verdi (/wiki/Robert_Verdi) as a fashion journalist in Paris who interviews Miranda Heidi Klum (/wiki/Heidi_Klum) Jen Taylor (/wiki/Jen_Taylor) as Lou Nigel Barker (/wiki/Nigel_Barker_(photographer)) Production [ edit ] When we made it I was naive. I know now how rare it is to find situations where the stars align. — Aline Brosh McKenna (/wiki/Aline_Brosh_McKenna) , screenwriter [7] (#cite_note-Indiewire_anniversary_piece_3-7) Director David Frankel (/wiki/David_Frankel) and producer Wendy Finerman (/wiki/Wendy_Finerman) had originally read The Devil Wears Prada in book proposal form. [8] (#cite_note-Hollywood_Reporter-8) It would be Frankel's second theatrical feature, and his first in over a decade. He, cinematographer Florian Ballhaus (/wiki/Florian_Ballhaus) , and costume designer Patricia Field (/wiki/Patricia_Field) , drew heavily on their experience in making Sex and the City (/wiki/Sex_and_the_City) . Frankel recalls the whole experience as having high stakes for those involved, since for himself and the others behind the camera it was the biggest project they had yet attempted, with barely adequate resources. "We knew we were on very thin ice," he told Variety (/wiki/Variety_(magazine)) for a 2016 article on the film's 10th anniversary. "It was possible this could be the end of the road for us." [9] (#cite_note-2016_Variety_anniversary_story-9) Weisberger is widely believed to have based Miranda on Anna Wintour (/wiki/Anna_Wintour) , the editor in chief of Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) , for whom she herself had once worked as a personal assistant. Fear of what Wintour might do in retribution for any visible cooperation with the production posed obstacles, not just in the fashion industry but also in Hollywood. [10] (#cite_note-2021_EW_story-10) Pre-production [ edit ] Fox bought the rights to Weisberger's novel not only before its publication in 2003, but before it was even finished. Carla Hacken, then the studio's executive vice president, had only seen the first hundred pages of manuscript and an outline for how the rest of the plot was to go. But for her that was enough. "I thought Miranda Priestly was one of the greatest villains ever," she recalled in 2016. "I remember we aggressively went in and scooped it up." [9] (#cite_note-2016_Variety_anniversary_story-9) Writing [ edit ] Work on a screenplay started promptly, before Weisberger had even finished her work. When it became a bestseller upon publication, elements of the plot were incorporated into the screenplay in progress. Most took their inspiration from the 2001 Ben Stiller (/wiki/Ben_Stiller) film Zoolander (/wiki/Zoolander) and primarily satirized the fashion industry. But it was still not ready to film. Elizabeth Gabler, later head of production at Fox, noted that the finished novel did not have a complete narrative. "Since there wasn't a strong third act in the book," she said later, "we needed to invent that." [9] (#cite_note-2016_Variety_anniversary_story-9) In the meantime, the studio and producer Wendy Finerman (/wiki/Wendy_Finerman) sought a director. Out of many candidates with experience in comedy, David Frankel (/wiki/David_Frankel) was hired despite his limited experience, having only made one feature, Miami Rhapsody (/wiki/Miami_Rhapsody) , along with some episodes of Sex and the City (/wiki/Sex_and_the_City) and Entourage (/wiki/Entourage_(U.S._TV_series)) . He was unsure about the property, calling it "undirectable ... a satire rather than a love story". [11] (#cite_note-Indiewire_anniversary_piece_1-11) Later, he cited Unzipped (/wiki/Unzipped_(film)) , the 1995 documentary about designer Isaac Mizrahi (/wiki/Isaac_Mizrahi) , as his model for the film's attitude towards fashion: "[It] revels in some of the silliness of the fashion world, but is also very serious." [12] (#cite_note-NY_Press_interview-12) At a meeting with Finerman, Frankel told her that he thought the story unnecessarily punished Miranda. "My view was that we should be grateful for excellence. Why do the excellent people have to be nice?" [9] (#cite_note-2016_Variety_anniversary_story-9) He prepared to move on and consider more scripts. Two days later his manager persuaded him to reconsider and look for something he liked that he could shape the film into. He took the job, giving Finerman extensive notes on the script and laying out a detailed vision for the film. [11] (#cite_note-Indiewire_anniversary_piece_1-11) Four screenwriters (/wiki/Screenwriter) worked on the property. Peter Hedges (/wiki/Peter_Hedges) wrote the first draft, but did not think he could do more; another writer passed. Paul Rudnick (/wiki/Paul_Rudnick) did some work on Miranda's scenes, followed by a Don Roos (/wiki/Don_Roos) rewrite. [11] (#cite_note-Indiewire_anniversary_piece_1-11) After that, Aline Brosh McKenna (/wiki/Aline_Brosh_McKenna) , who was able to relate her own youthful experiences attempting to launch a journalism career in New York to the story, [11] (#cite_note-Indiewire_anniversary_piece_1-11) [13] (#cite_note-McKenna_WGA_interview-13) produced a draft after a month's work that struck the right balance for Finerman and Frankel, whose notes were incorporated into a final version, [9] (#cite_note-2016_Variety_anniversary_story-9) rearranging the plot significantly, following the book less closely [9] (#cite_note-2016_Variety_anniversary_story-9) and focusing the story on the conflict between Andy and Miranda. [14] (#cite_note-Trip_to_the_Big_Screen-14) She found the experience of writing a story with female protagonists that did not center around a relationship "very liberating ... I felt I was allowed to do what the movie wanted to be, a Faust story, a Wall Street (/wiki/Wall_Street_(1987_film)) for ladies." [11] (#cite_note-Indiewire_anniversary_piece_1-11) McKenna also initially toned down Miranda's meanness at the request of Finerman and Frankel, only to restore it later for Streep. [8] (#cite_note-Hollywood_Reporter-8) She later cited Don Rickles (/wiki/Don_Rickles) as her main influence for the insults in the dialogue; before even starting work on the screenplay she had come up with Miranda's "Take a chance. Hire the smart fat girl" line, which she felt summed up the disparity between Andy and the world she found herself in. [15] (#cite_note-Vanity_Fair_McKenna_anniversary_piece-15) Weisberger recalled in 2021, on the film's 15th anniversary, that McKenna's draft took it away from the "typical chick flick" direction it was going in. [10] (#cite_note-2021_EW_story-10) In a 2017 interview with Entertainment Weekly (/wiki/Entertainment_Weekly) , McKenna revealed that the character she and Frankel had the most discussions about was Andrea's boyfriend Nate. She likened his role in the story to that usually played by a male protagonist's girlfriend or wife who regularly reminds him of responsibilities at home that he has neglected. "[W]e wanted to make sure he wasn't a pain in the ass, but he is the person who is trying to say, 'Is this who you want to be morally?'" [16] (#cite_note-EW_McKenna_story-16) McKenna consulted with acquaintances who worked in fashion to make her screenplay more realistic, a task she said later was difficult since many of them did not want to risk offending Wintour. [10] (#cite_note-2021_EW_story-10) In a 2010 British Academy of Film and Television Arts (/wiki/British_Academy_of_Film_and_Television_Arts) lecture, she told of a scene that was changed after one of these reviews, where Nigel told Andy not to complain so much about her job. Originally, she had made his speech more of a supportive pep talk (/wiki/Motivational_speaker) , but one of those acquaintances said that would not happen: "[N]o-one in that world is nice to each other ... There's no reason to be, and they don't have time." she quoted him as saying. [17] (#cite_note-McKenna_BAFTA_lecture-17) Cerulean sweater speech [ edit ] The cerulean sweater speech The " cerulean (/wiki/Cerulean) speech", [18] (#cite_note-Ringer_2016_article-18) where Miranda draws the connection between the designer fashion in Runway ' s pages and Andy's cerulean blue sweater, criticizing Andy's snobbishness about fashion and explaining the trickle-down effect (/wiki/Trickle-down_fashion) , had its origins in a scene cut from earlier drafts that Streep had asked to have restored. It slowly grew from a few lines where the editor disparaged her assistant's fashion sense to a speech about "why she thought fashion was important ... She is so aware that she is affecting billions of people, and what they pick off the floor and what they are putting on their bodies in the morning." [15] (#cite_note-Vanity_Fair_McKenna_anniversary_piece-15) Streep said in 2016 she was interested in "the responsibility lying on the shoulders of a woman who was the head of a global brand ... That scene wasn't about the fun of fashion, it was about marketing and business." [2] (#cite_note-Indiewire_anniversary_piece_2-2) [a] (#cite_note-20) McKenna recalls that she kept expanding it to suit Streep and Frankel, but even a few days before it was scheduled to be filmed she was unsure if it would be used or even shot. She was revising it at a nearby Starbucks (/wiki/Starbucks) when she realized that Miranda would describe something not as just blue—chosen as the color for Andy's sweater since it would work best on screen [15] (#cite_note-Vanity_Fair_McKenna_anniversary_piece-15) —but would instead use an exact shade. From a list of shades McKenna sent, Streep picked cerulean; the final speech takes up almost a page of the script, [20] (#cite_note-21) long for a mainstream film. The references to past designer collections are entirely fictional, McKenna explains, since the speech was written around the sweater's color [15] (#cite_note-Vanity_Fair_McKenna_anniversary_piece-15) (however, the Huffington Post (/wiki/Huffington_Post) later pointed out, designers often take their fashion inspiration from the streets [21] (#cite_note-HuffPost_video_piece-22) ). The speech has become one of the film's most memorable moments; "Miranda's signature monologue" to The Ringer (/wiki/The_Ringer_(website)) . [18] (#cite_note-Ringer_2016_article-18) "There is no fashion quotable that is more widely referenced, referred to, and used to 'explain' 'fashion' than [that] speech", Refinery 29 (/wiki/Refinery_29) says. "[M]any people credit [it] as the moment that they finally understood how the fashion industry works and why it matters." [22] (#cite_note-Refinery_29_article-23) "'Cerulean' [has never] sounded more sinister," the Huffington Post wrote in 2016, [21] (#cite_note-HuffPost_video_piece-22) "Whole books could be written on Streep's inflections in this scene", wrote The New Zealand Herald (/wiki/The_New_Zealand_Herald) in 2020, "but let's focus on one word", referring to her "truly extraordinary emphasis" on the first syllable of "ready": [23] (#cite_note-NZ_Herald-24) She stretches out the very word as if it's not doing its job—as if 'ready' isn't even ready, but dragging its tiresome heels like everyone else ... The scene is a Streep showcase guaranteed to make her lifetime-achievement clipreels. (Emily Blunt's one moment, silently shaking her head by the doorway to pre-empt interruption, is a tiny treat, too). But it’s also an instance of this ditzy comedy acquiring depth, because for all Miranda’s air of utter boredom with other people, this attack on Andy's very being also amounts to a philosophical defence of her boss’s line of work. In 2018 New York Times chief fashion critic Vanessa Friedman (/wiki/Vanessa_Friedman) invoked the speech in her defense of the importance of covering haute couture : [24] (#cite_note-25) And it's not the "Devil Wears Prada" argument, though that does hold true: In a world where everything goes into the Instagram soup and from there seeps into the cultural digestive system, what might appear on a runway in the Musée Rodin (where Dior holds its shows) in July will affect what H&M does in August. Morwenna Ferrier, a fashion reporter for The Guardian (/wiki/The_Guardian) agreed, despite the speech's references to fictional collections. "As a fashion journalist I can vouch for its gist: that regardless of how immune you think you are to fashion, if you buy clothes, you are indebted to someone else's choice", she wrote in an article about how the fashion industry continues to embrace the speech's argument. "Arguing that you are oblivious to trends is a fashion choice in itself." As an example of how that had happened in reality since the film, she cited the yellow Guo Pei (/wiki/Guo_Pei) dress Rihanna (/wiki/Rihanna) wore to the 2015 Met Gala (/wiki/Met_Gala) , greatly popularizing that color for clothing over the next two years. [25] (#cite_note-26) But Refinery 29 wrote in 2017 that while the speech's view of fashion trickling down (/wiki/Trickle-down_fashion) from a cultural elite was probably true when the film was released, it became less so in the social media (/wiki/Social_media) era which followed. [22] (#cite_note-Refinery_29_article-23) Study Breaks later pointed to brands such as Vetements (/wiki/Vetements) , which takes its inspiration from everyday streetwear, and Champion (/wiki/Champion_(sportswear)) , the sportswear brand whose popularity with low-income customers helped make an elite brand those customers can no longer afford. [26] (#cite_note-27) In 2016, on the film's 10th anniversary, Mic (/wiki/Mic_(media_company)) wrote that the speech's logic also functioned as a critique of cultural appropriation (/wiki/Cultural_appropriation) . "In many ways, Priestley's monologue nailed the real problem with cultural appropriation: people not understanding the history or meaning behind something like cornrows or headdresses, but treating it like a new trend or accessory anyway." [27] (#cite_note-28) Six years later, in a Slate (/wiki/Slate_(website)) article discussing the appeal of female characters in movies and TV who deliver incisive insults and other commentary with no apparent affect, such as those played by Aubrey Plaza (/wiki/Aubrey_Plaza) , Nadira Goffe recalled Streep's "epic, unfeeling monologue" about the sweater as a "perfect example" of the archetype. "In a moment where a character would usually be showing a hint of frustration, anger, or even annoyance, Streep schools Anne Hathaway's character in a manner that feels as though she barely even thought about the words she was saying", she writes. "It gives her an air of removal, and therefore control—being straight-faced and even-toned in an emotional situation shows how little she cares, or that she's lying about caring at all." [28] (#cite_note-29) "Florals? For spring? Groundbreaking!" [ edit ] Miranda's sarcastic response to assistant editor Jocelyn's suggestion for a story about the floral prints (/wiki/Textile_printing) being shown in spring collections has been considered the film's single best line. McKenna regularly sees it used as a headline at that time of year, [29] (#cite_note-Thrillist_article-30) and some fashion journalists have referenced it in stories about florals as a spring fashion favorite. [30] (#cite_note-E!_florals_piece-31) [31] (#cite_note-Tatler_florals_piece-32) "Doing flowered stuff in the spring is a cliché, and I do think that's one of the reasons that that line resonates", McKenna told Thrillist (/wiki/Thrillist) in 2019. "It's in a secret code that women understand, which is: Every year in the fall they try to sell you plaid, and in the spring they are trying to sell you floral prints, and you've probably got 10 of those in your closet, and they are trying to give you a compelling reason to sell you shit you already have." [29] (#cite_note-Thrillist_article-30) McKenna wrote the scene for the film with Streep in mind. When the two first met to discuss the script, Streep told her she really liked the "By all means move at a glacial pace; you know that thrills me" line earlier in the film. In the script it was written with periods after "florals" and "spring"; Streep spoke them with a slight rising intonation, as if they ended in question marks, when the scene was filmed. McKenna sees Streep's way of saying "florals" has the same resonance for her as "glacial pace" in the earlier scene. "It just punches you in the face ever so lightly, slowly ruining your self-esteem." [29] (#cite_note-Thrillist_article-30) Some fashion journalists have conceded the line's point while defending florals as a spring fashion motif. "It's true that defaulting to that pattern isn't exactly reinventing the wheel", writes E! (/wiki/E!) . "But why should you have to? Much like cliches, classics are classics for a reason." Tatler (/wiki/Tatler) adds: "[P]erhaps Miranda Priestly was right and there is nothing groundbreaking about florals for spring; but that doesn't mean it can't be done well and with style." [30] (#cite_note-E!_florals_piece-31) [31] (#cite_note-Tatler_florals_piece-32) Casting [ edit ] Finerman revealed Streep was almost passed over for the role because some people thought "she has never been funny a day in her life." [32] (#cite_note-33) Another source has claimed that Michelle Pfeiffer (/wiki/Michelle_Pfeiffer) , Glenn Close (/wiki/Glenn_Close) , and Catherine Zeta-Jones (/wiki/Catherine_Zeta-Jones) had also been considered for the part. [10] (#cite_note-2021_EW_story-10) Weisberger, who initially could not imagine Streep playing the part, recalled that after seeing her on set it was "crystal clear" that she was perfect for the role. [33] (#cite_note-Weisberger_anniversary_piece-34) Her casting helped offset some of the difficulties Wintour's resistance to the film had created. [10] (#cite_note-2021_EW_story-10) The news that Streep would meet with Frankel was celebrated at Fox. But while Streep, for her part, knew the film could be very successful, she felt the pay she was being offered for playing Miranda was "slightly, if not insulting, not perhaps reflective of my actual value to the project". The producers doubled it to around $4 million, [2] (#cite_note-Indiewire_anniversary_piece_2-2) and she signed on, allowing Fox to greenlight (/wiki/Greenlight) the film. [9] (#cite_note-2016_Variety_anniversary_story-9) According to Frankel, Streep saw the film as a chance to "skewer the doyennes of the fashion world". She has three daughters and, as an ardent feminist (/wiki/Feminism) , felt that fashion magazines "twisted the minds of young women around the world and their priorities. This was an interesting way to get back at them." Also, she said, the film passed the Bechdel test (/wiki/Bechdel_test) . [2] (#cite_note-Indiewire_anniversary_piece_2-2) She insisted on the cerulean sweater speech, [34] (#cite_note-2016_Vanity_Fair_piece-35) and the scene where Miranda briefly opens up to Andy, without makeup, about her divorce. "I wanted", she explained, "to see that face without its protective glaze, to glimpse the woman in the businesswoman." [9] (#cite_note-2016_Variety_anniversary_story-9) Casting Andy was more difficult. Fox wanted a young A-list (/wiki/A-list) actress, and felt Rachel McAdams (/wiki/Rachel_McAdams) , then coming off successes in Mean Girls (/wiki/Mean_Girls) and The Notebook (/wiki/The_Notebook) , would help the film's commercial prospects. McAdams turned down several offers to play Andy, telling the studio she was trying to avoid mainstream Hollywood projects for a while. [9] (#cite_note-2016_Variety_anniversary_story-9) Kirsten Dunst (/wiki/Kirsten_Dunst) , Natalie Portman (/wiki/Natalie_Portman) , Scarlett Johansson (/wiki/Scarlett_Johansson) , and Kate Hudson (/wiki/Kate_Hudson) were other actresses considered for the role. [10] (#cite_note-2021_EW_story-10) Anne Hathaway (/wiki/Anne_Hathaway) , by contrast, actively sought the part, tracing "Hire me" in the sand of the zen garden (/wiki/Japanese_rock_garden) on Hacken's desk when she talked about the project with the executive. While Frankel liked her enough to not require her to audition, she knew she was not the studio's first choice and he would have to be patient [9] (#cite_note-2016_Variety_anniversary_story-9) (other accounts say that she was the only actress considered for the role). [8] (#cite_note-Hollywood_Reporter-8) Fox production chief Elizabeth Gabler says the studio had not realized how strong her audience was after the Princess Diaries (/wiki/The_Princess_Diaries_(film)) films. [2] (#cite_note-Indiewire_anniversary_piece_2-2) In one of their meetings, Gabler recalls Hathaway sitting on her couch giving her notes on the third act. While the studio did not use those notes, "her sensibilities were completely aligned with what we ended up doing." [10] (#cite_note-2021_EW_story-10) Hathaway took the part to work with Streep, but also due to some personal aspects. [35] (#cite_note-Ledger07-36) She celebrated when she learned she had gotten the part. [9] (#cite_note-2016_Variety_anniversary_story-9) Over 100 actresses had been considered for Emily before one of the casting agents taped Emily Blunt (/wiki/Emily_Blunt) reading some of the lines elsewhere on the Fox lot as she was leaving for her flight to London following her audition for Eragon (/wiki/Eragon_(film)) . Although she read them in her own British accent despite the character being written as American like in the novel, Frankel was interested; [9] (#cite_note-2016_Variety_anniversary_story-9) Finerman liked her for her sense of humor. [14] (#cite_note-Trip_to_the_Big_Screen-14) After the makers of Eragon cast Sienna Guillory (/wiki/Sienna_Guillory) , Frankel called her in the bathroom of "some dive club" in London, where she was consoling herself with her sister. He told her that while he would have cast her just from the tape, the studio wanted to see another audition with her dressed more in character. [9] (#cite_note-2016_Variety_anniversary_story-9) She insisted on continuing to play the character as British. [36] (#cite_note-Hugh_Davies_in_Telegraph-37) Both Hathaway and Blunt lost weight for their roles, with Hathaway later recounting that they "would clutch at each other and cry because we were so hungry." [37] (#cite_note-38) Blunt later denied rumors she did this at the filmmakers' request. [38] (#cite_note-Blunt's_weight_loss-39) [39] (#cite_note-Blunt_denial-40) Colleen and Suzanne Dengel, the twins who played Miranda's daughters, were cast two weeks after auditioning for Frankel and Finerman. The director and producer laughed, which the sisters believed help them get the part. They recalled in 2017 that they were excited both by being able to work together on camera for the first time, as well as the chance to act opposite Hathaway since they were big fans of the Princess Diaries films as well. [40] (#cite_note-Buzzfeed_Dengel_twins_story-41) Tucci was one of the last actors cast; he agreed to play Nigel only three days before shooting started. [9] (#cite_note-2016_Variety_anniversary_story-9) "It was just such a beautiful piece of writing, and there's no way that you could ever say no to such a thing", he recalled. [10] (#cite_note-2021_EW_story-10) The filmmakers reportedly had auditioned Barney's (/wiki/Barney%27s) creative director Simon Doonan (/wiki/Simon_Doonan) and E! (/wiki/E!) 's Robert Verdi (/wiki/Robert_Verdi) , both openly gay men highly visible as media fashion commentators, for the part; the BBC (/wiki/BBC) 's Graham Norton (/wiki/Graham_Norton) also auditioned [41] (#cite_note-Stanley_Tucci_on_Graham_Norton-42) from among 150 actors considered for the part. [10] (#cite_note-2021_EW_story-10) Verdi would later say there was no intention to actually hire him and the producers had just used him and Doonan to give whoever they ultimately did cast some filmed research to use in playing a gay character (he would end up with a walk-on part as a fashion journalist in Paris). Tucci says he was unaware of this: "All I know is that someone called me and I realized this was a great part." He based the character on various people he was acquainted with, insisting on the glasses he ultimately wore. [42] (#cite_note-Tucci_in_Out-43) Daniel Sunjata (/wiki/Daniel_Sunjata) had originally read for Tucci's part, rather unenthusiastically since he had just finished playing a similar character, but then read the Holt part and asked if he could audition for it. Simon Baker (/wiki/Simon_Baker) auditioned by sending a video of himself, wearing the same self-designed green jacket he has on when he and Andy meet for the first time. [43] (#cite_note-DVD_commentary_Frankel-44) Wintour reportedly warned major fashion designers who had been invited to make cameo appearances as themselves in the film that they would be banished from the magazine's pages if they did so; [44] (#cite_note-Radar-45) Frankel said in 2021 the most any were willing to do was help the production with background information, like allowing visits to their showrooms or giving notes on the authenticity of the script. [10] (#cite_note-2021_EW_story-10) Vogue and other major women's and fashion magazines have avoided reviewing or even mentioning the book in their pages. Wintour's spokespeople deny the claim. [44] (#cite_note-Radar-45) Only Valentino Garavani (/wiki/Valentino_Garavani) , who designed the black evening gown (/wiki/Evening_gown) Miranda wears during the museum benefit scene, chose to make an appearance. [44] (#cite_note-Radar-45) Coincidentally, he was in New York City during production and Finerman dared Field, an acquaintance, to ask him personally. Much to her surprise, he accepted. [45] (#cite_note-Getting_Valentino-46) Other cameos of note include Heidi Klum (/wiki/Heidi_Klum) as herself and Weisberger as the twins' nanny (/wiki/Nanny) . [46] (#cite_note-DVD_commentary_Finerman-47) Streep's daughter's (/wiki/Mamie_Gummer) film debut as a barista (/wiki/Barista) at Starbucks (/wiki/Starbucks) was cut. [47] (#cite_note-DVD_commentary_on_deleted_scenes-48) Gisele Bündchen (/wiki/Gisele_B%C3%BCndchen) agreed to appear in the film only if she did not play a model. [43] (#cite_note-DVD_commentary_Frankel-44) Filming [ edit ] Hathaway (/wiki/Anne_Hathaway) between takes while shooting a scene in Midtown Manhattan (/wiki/Midtown_Manhattan) Principal photography (/wiki/Principal_photography) took place over 57 days in New York and Paris between October and December 2005. [43] (#cite_note-DVD_commentary_Frankel-44) The film's budget was initially $35 million and was to only include filming in New York. [2] (#cite_note-Indiewire_anniversary_piece_2-2) The limited budget caused problems with some locations—the crew could not get permission to shoot at the Museum of Modern Art (/wiki/Museum_of_Modern_Art) or Bryant Park (/wiki/Bryant_Park) , [9] (#cite_note-2016_Variety_anniversary_story-9) which they also attribute to fear of Wintour. The co-op boards at many apartment buildings also refused to let the production use them for Miranda's, which Frankel also believes was because of Wintour's influence. [10] (#cite_note-2021_EW_story-10) Ballhaus, at Finerman and Frankel's suggestion, composed as many shots as possible, whether interiors or exteriors, to at least partially take in busy New York street scenes in the background, to convey the excitement of working in a glamorous industry in New York. He also used a handheld camera (/wiki/Movie_camera) during some of the busier meeting scenes in Miranda's office, to better convey the flow of action, and slow motion for Andrea's entrance into the office following her makeover. A few process shots (/wiki/Process_shot) were necessary, mainly to put exterior views behind windows on sets and in the Mercedes where Miranda and Andy are having their climactic conversation. [43] (#cite_note-DVD_commentary_Frankel-44) Fox originally refused permission to let Frankel shoot some scenes from the third act in Paris (/wiki/Paris) , where it is set, due to the low budget. After six "nightmarish" [2] (#cite_note-Indiewire_anniversary_piece_2-2) weeks of shooting, he had an editor cut a " sizzle reel (/wiki/Trailer_(promotion)) " of highlights. That convinced the studio to increase the budget to allow for limited shooting overseas. [2] (#cite_note-Indiewire_anniversary_piece_2-2) Streep did not go as Fox believed it would be too expensive; green screen shots and her body double were used instead. [9] (#cite_note-2016_Variety_anniversary_story-9) [2] (#cite_note-Indiewire_anniversary_piece_2-2) Acting [ edit ] Several weeks after all the major parts had been cast, the actors gathered in New York for a table read (/wiki/Read-through) . Hathaway was nervous and goofy, she recalls, since she still had not developed her idea of the part; she described her performance at that point as "[nothing] particularly impressive". Blunt, by contrast, found Streep's laugh relaxed her enough to keep her focused on playing a nervous, distracted Emily. The highlight of the session was Streep's first line as Miranda. Instead of the "strident, bossy, barking voice" everyone expected, Hathaway says, Streep silenced the room by speaking in a near whisper. "It was so unexpected and brilliant." At the reading Streep also changed Miranda's last line to "everybody wants to be us " from the original "me". [9] (#cite_note-2016_Variety_anniversary_story-9) Devil was the only film of Streep's where she took a Method (/wiki/Method_acting) approach, staying in character between takes. She also purposely kept to herself and did not socialize with the rest of the cast and crew when shooting was done. In her trailer, "I could hear them all rocking and laughing. I was so depressed! I said, 'Well, it's the price you pay for being boss!'" As a result, she has not taken the Method approach again. [10] (#cite_note-2021_EW_story-10) Streep made a conscious decision not to play the part as a direct impression of Wintour, [48] (#cite_note-Who_interview-49) right down to not using an accent and making the character American rather than English ("I felt it was too restricting"). [36] (#cite_note-Hugh_Davies_in_Telegraph-37) "I think she wanted people not to confuse the character of Miranda Priestly with Anna Wintour at all," said Frankel. "And that's why early on in the process she decided on a very different look for her and a different approach to the character." [8] (#cite_note-Hollywood_Reporter-8) The "that's all," [49] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEWeisberger200380-50) "please bore someone else ..." [50] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEWeisberger2003204-51) catchphrases (/wiki/Catchphrase) ; her coat-tossing on Andrea's desk [51] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEWeisberger2003201-52) and discarded steak (/wiki/Steak) lunch [52] (#cite_note-FOOTNOTEWeisberger2003150–51-53) are retained from the novel. Streep prepared by reading a book by Wintour protégé Liz Tilberis (/wiki/Liz_Tilberis) and the memoirs of Vogue editor Diana Vreeland (/wiki/Diana_Vreeland) . She lost so much weight during shooting that the clothes had to be taken in. [48] (#cite_note-Who_interview-49) During the movie's press tour, Streep also said her performance as Miranda was inspired by different men she knew, but did not say which ones. In 2016, she disclosed to Variety that she took Miranda's soft speaking style from Clint Eastwood (/wiki/Clint_Eastwood) : "He never, ever, ever raises his voice and everyone has to lean in to listen, and he is automatically the most powerful person in the room." However, she said, Eastwood does not make jokes, so instead she modeled that aspect of the character on theatrical and film director Mike Nichols (/wiki/Mike_Nichols) , whose delivery of a cutting remark, she said, made everyone laugh, including the target. "The walk, I'm afraid, is mine," Streep added. [9] (#cite_note-2016_Variety_anniversary_story-9) Inspirations for Miranda's hair Carmen Dell'Orefice (/wiki/Carmen_Dell%27Orefice) Christine Lagarde (/wiki/Christine_Lagarde) For Miranda's actual look, Streep looked to two women. The bouffant (/wiki/Bouffant) hairstyle was inspired by model and actress Carmen Dell'Orefice (/wiki/Carmen_Dell%27Orefice) , [b] (#cite_note-54) which Streep said she wanted to blend with "the unassailable elegance and authority of [French politician] Christine Lagarde (/wiki/Christine_Lagarde) ". [9] (#cite_note-2016_Variety_anniversary_story-9) [15] (#cite_note-Vanity_Fair_McKenna_anniversary_piece-15) She wanted Miranda's hair to be white, which the producers feared would make her look too old, but the studio trusted her and she worked with makeup artist and stylist J. Roy Helland (/wiki/J._Roy_Helland) , a longtime associate, to create the look. [10] (#cite_note-2021_EW_story-10) The costumes Field designed to go with that look resulted in numerous blown takes (/wiki/Take#film) during the montage (/wiki/Montage_(filmmaking)) where Miranda repeatedly throws her overcoat on Andrea's desk when she arrives in the morning. [9] (#cite_note-2016_Variety_anniversary_story-9) When McKenna saw Streep as Miranda for the first time on set, she recalls being so terrified she threw her arm in front of Frankel "like we were in a car wreck". [15] (#cite_note-Vanity_Fair_McKenna_anniversary_piece-15) Hathaway prepared for the part by volunteering for a week as an assistant at an auction house (/wiki/Auction_house) where she was "put through the wringer" according to Weisberger, who adds that Hathaway supplemented that by asking her many questions about working for Wintour. [33] (#cite_note-Weisberger_anniversary_piece-34) Frankel recalls that she was nervous through most of the shooting, particularly when working late, since Raffaello Follieri (/wiki/Vati-Con_scandal) , her boyfriend at that time, preferred strongly that she not do so; [9] (#cite_note-2016_Variety_anniversary_story-9) she was also having health issues due to a cyst (/wiki/Cyst) . [2] (#cite_note-Indiewire_anniversary_piece_2-2) The director said she was "terrified" before starting her first scene with Streep, who had begun her working relationship with Hathaway by saying first "I think you're perfect for the role and I'm so happy we're going to be working on this together" then warning her that was the last nice thing she would say. [53] (#cite_note-Hathaway/Streep_story-55) Streep applied this philosophy to everyone else on set as well, keeping her distance from the cast and crew members unless it was necessary to discuss something with them. [43] (#cite_note-DVD_commentary_Frankel-44) [40] (#cite_note-Buzzfeed_Dengel_twins_story-41) The scene where Andy delivers the Book, the mockup of the magazine in progress, to Miranda's apartment, was, according to the Dengels, who played Miranda's twin daughters, totally improvised (/wiki/Improvisation#Performing_arts) . "That was just something we did with Anne and it made the cut," Colleen Dengel told BuzzFeed (/wiki/BuzzFeed) in 2017. Nevertheless, it took three more days of filming to get the shot of the girls up in the stairwell the way Frankel wanted it, a look she believes was inspired by a similar scene with twin girls in The Shining (/wiki/The_Shining_(film)) . [40] (#cite_note-Buzzfeed_Dengel_twins_story-41) Improvisations [ edit ] Several of the actors contributed dialogue and scenes to the film. Streep suggested the editorial meeting scene, which does not advance the plot but shows Miranda at work without Andy present. [54] (#cite_note-DVD_commentary_McKenna-56) It was also her idea that Miranda not wear makeup in the scene where she opens up to Andy and worries about the effect on her daughters of her divorce becoming public knowledge. [8] (#cite_note-Hollywood_Reporter-8) Hathaway suggested taking the kiss between Andy and Nate out of the scene where he makes her a grilled cheese sandwich. "I just don't think it's right...just doesn't feel like we're at that point in our relationship", Grenier recalls her saying. "There's too much history." [10] (#cite_note-2021_EW_story-10) Blunt contributed the line where she tells Andy "I'm hearing this, and I want to hear this" while opening and closing her hand. In a 2015 interview, she said that she had overheard a mother saying that to a child in a supermarket during production. [55] (#cite_note-Blunt_hearing_this_line-57) She also contributed the line "I love my job, I love my job" in a scene where her character is sick at work. [56] (#cite_note-58) Bündchen's "You look good" upon seeing Andy following her makeover was her addition to the script; she thought it balanced Emily's meanness to Andy. [10] (#cite_note-2021_EW_story-10) Costuming [ edit ] Frankel, who had worked with Patricia Field (/wiki/Patricia_Field) on his feature-film debut Miami Rhapsody (/wiki/Miami_Rhapsody) as well as Sex and the City (/wiki/Sex_and_the_City) , knew that what the cast wore would be of utmost importance in a movie set in the fashion industry. "My approach was to hire her and then leave the room," he joked later. [57] (#cite_note-NYC_and_Fashion_Frankel-59) While only Valentino Garavani (/wiki/Valentino_Garavani) appeared onscreen, many other designers were helpful to Field. [58] (#cite_note-Observer_fashion_story-60) Frankel recalls that Prada (/wiki/Prada) 's decision to assist Field "helped her break the ice". [10] (#cite_note-2021_EW_story-10) The $100,000 budget for the film's costumes was supplemented by help from Field's friends throughout the industry; she estimated later that about a million dollars of clothing is on screen. [59] (#cite_note-Ruth_La_Ferla-61) The single priciest item was a $100,000 Fred Leighton (/wiki/Fred_Leighton) necklace (/wiki/Necklace) on Streep, [58] (#cite_note-Observer_fashion_story-60) who likened Field's success in putting the movie's wardrobe together to the special effects in the Mission: Impossible films (/wiki/Mission:_Impossible_(film_series)) . [10] (#cite_note-2021_EW_story-10) When Hathaway enters the office after Nigel gives her access to Runway ' s closet, she is dressed entirely in Chanel (/wiki/Chanel) . Field explained in 2016 that "I felt Annie Hathaway was a Chanel girl organically, as opposed to let's say a Versace (/wiki/Versace) [or Roberto Cavalli (/wiki/Roberto_Cavalli) ] girl." When she called the company to ask for assistance, they were delighted because "they wanted to see Chanel on a young girl to give it another point of view," showing it as a brand for "not just middle-aged women in suits, but youthful and funky." [60] (#cite_note-EW_anniversary_style_piece-62) Calvin Klein (/wiki/Calvin_Klein) rounds out Andrea's wardrobe. [61] (#cite_note-DVD_commentary_Field-63) Most of the garments seen onscreen were borrowed; Streep recalls not being able to eat spaghetti at lunch while wearing one dress because if it got soiled the production could not return it. [10] (#cite_note-2021_EW_story-10) Dolce & Gabbana (/wiki/Dolce_%26_Gabbana) and Calvin Klein (/wiki/Calvin_Klein) helped Field as well, with some contributions from Lebanese designer Georges Chakra (/wiki/Georges_Chakra) . [62] (#cite_note-Lucire_story-64) Although Field avoids making Streep look like Wintour, she dresses her in generous helpings of Prada (By Field's own estimate, 40 percent of the shoes on Streep's feet are Prada). "I know her character was originally based on Anna Wintour," Field said, "but I didn't want to copy someone's style." [63] (#cite_note-Field_Racked_interview-65) Field said she did not want people to easily recognize what Miranda was wearing. [61] (#cite_note-DVD_commentary_Field-63) But, like Wintour and her Vogue predecessor Diana Vreeland (/wiki/Diana_Vreeland) , the two realized that Miranda needed a signature look, which was provided primarily by the white wig and forelock (/wiki/Forelock) she wore as well as the clothes the two spent much time poring over look-books for. [8] (#cite_note-Hollywood_Reporter-8) "[I]n choosing her wardrobe my idea was that she's a chief fashion editor, she has her own style," Field told Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) in 2016. "We're creating an original character." [64] (#cite_note-Fields_WWD_anniversary-66) Blunt recalls that she and Streep generally wore the shoes that came with their outfits only when they were shown in full. Whenever only their upper bodies needed to be visible, they put on more comfortable footwear like Uggs (/wiki/Ugg_boots) . Hathaway, by contrast, always wore whatever shoes she had been given. "[She was running] over cobblestone streets like a sure-footed little mountain goat", Blunt recalls. [10] (#cite_note-2021_EW_story-10) Emily Blunt (/wiki/Emily_Blunt) in the look Field created for her character She contrasted Andy and Emily by giving Andy a sense of style, without much risk-taking, that would suggest clothing a fashion magazine would have on hand for shoots, clothing a recent college graduate with little sense of style would feel comfortable wearing in a fashion-conscious workplace. [ citation needed ] Blunt, on the other hand was "so on the edge she's almost falling off". [65] (#cite_note-NYC_and_Fashion_Field-67) For her, Field chose pieces by Vivienne Westwood (/wiki/Vivienne_Westwood) and Rick Owens (/wiki/Rick_Owens) to suggest a taste for funkier, more "underground" clothing. [61] (#cite_note-DVD_commentary_Field-63) After the film's release, some of the looks Field chose became popular, to the filmmakers' amusement. [46] (#cite_note-DVD_commentary_Finerman-47) [54] (#cite_note-DVD_commentary_McKenna-56) Tucci praised Field's skill in putting ensembles together that were not only stylish but helped him develop his character: She just sort of sits there with her cigarette and her hair, and she would pull stuff—these very disparate elements—and put them together into this ensemble, and you'd go, "Come on, Pat, you can't wear that with that." She'd say, "Eh, just try it on." So you'd put it on, and not only did it work, but it works on so many different levels—and it allows you to figure out who the guy is. Those outfits achieve exactly what I was trying to achieve. There's flamboyance, there's real risk-taking, but when I walk into the room, it's not flashy. It's actually very subtle. You look at it and you go, "That shirt, that tie, that jacket, that vest? What?" But it works. [42] (#cite_note-Tucci_in_Out-43) He found one Dries van Noten (/wiki/Dries_van_Noten) tie he wore during the film to his liking and kept it. [42] (#cite_note-Tucci_in_Out-43) Production design [ edit ] After touring some offices of real fashion magazines, Jess Gonchor (/wiki/Jess_Gonchor) gave the Runway offices a clean, white look meant to suggest a makeup compact [43] (#cite_note-DVD_commentary_Frankel-44) ("the chaste beiges and whites of impervious authority," Denby (/wiki/David_Denby_(film_critic)) called it [66] (#cite_note-Denby-68) ). Miranda's office bears some strong similarities to the real office of Anna Wintour, down to an octagonal mirror on the wall, photographs and a floral arrangement on the desk. [67] (#cite_note-desk_photos-69) Gonchor later told Women's Wear Daily (/wiki/Women%27s_Wear_Daily) that he had based the set on a photo of Wintour's office he found online; the similarity led Wintour to have her office redecorated after the movie's release. [68] (#cite_note-Sassybella_office_story-70) In 2021, Frankel said Gonchor had actually managed to sneak into Vogue ' s offices to get a look at Wintour's. "They got it really, really close", Weisberger said. [10] (#cite_note-2021_EW_story-10) Gonchor even chose separate computer wallpaper to highlight different aspects of Blunt's and Hathaway's character: Paris's Arc de Triomphe (/wiki/Arc_de_Triomphe) on Blunt's suggests her aspirations to accompany Miranda to the shows there, while the floral image on Andy's suggests the natural, unassuming qualities she displays at the outset of her tenure with the magazine. For the photo of Andy with her parents, Hathaway posed with her own mother and David Marshall Grant (/wiki/David_Marshall_Grant) . [43] (#cite_note-DVD_commentary_Frankel-44) The Dengel twins recalled being asked every day for three years straight if the Harry Potter advance copies were real; to their great disappointment they were not and in fact were "all gibberish". They eventually auctioned them for $586 on eBay (/wiki/EBay) , along with various clothing used in the film, to benefit Dress for Success, a charity which provides business clothing to help women transition into the workforce. [40] (#cite_note-Buzzfeed_Dengel_twins_story-41) [69] (#cite_note-Dress_for_Success_auction-71) The 1221 Avenue of the Americas (/wiki/1221_Avenue_of_the_Americas) , home to Elias-Clarke in the film Locations [ edit ] New York [ edit ] The building at 1221 Avenue of the Americas (/wiki/1221_Avenue_of_the_Americas) on Sixth Avenue (/wiki/Sixth_Avenue) was used for the exteriors and lobby (/wiki/Lobby_(room)) of Elias-Clarke's headquarters. The Runway offices are partially corridors in the neighboring Fox building and partially sets. [43] (#cite_note-DVD_commentary_Frankel-44) The Elias-Clarke cafeteria (/wiki/Cafeteria) is the one at the Reuters (/wiki/Reuters) office in Manhattan. [43] (#cite_note-DVD_commentary_Frankel-44) Nate and Andy's apartment is on the Lower East Side (/wiki/Lower_East_Side) . [46] (#cite_note-DVD_commentary_Finerman-47) [70] (#cite_note-Buzzfeed_2016_locations_article-72) Andy gets on the subway at the Spring Street (/wiki/Spring_Street_station_(IRT_Lexington_Avenue_Line)) station and gets off at 51st Street (/wiki/Lexington_Avenue/51st_Street_station) , both on the Lexington Avenue Line (/wiki/IRT_Lexington_Avenue_Line) . [70] (#cite_note-Buzzfeed_2016_locations_article-72) Bubby's, [70] (#cite_note-Buzzfeed_2016_locations_article-72) the restaurant Nate works at (and where Andrea, Doug and Lily eat dinner on occasion) is in TriBeCa (/wiki/TriBeCa) . [46] (#cite_note-DVD_commentary_Finerman-47) The Smith & Wollensky (/wiki/Smith_%26_Wollensky) steakhouse and its kitchen were used. [43] (#cite_note-DVD_commentary_Frankel-44) The Calvin Klein (/wiki/Calvin_Klein_(fashion_house)) showroom is used in the deleted scenes. [47] (#cite_note-DVD_commentary_on_deleted_scenes-48) Holt's studio is a loft used by an actual designer. [46] (#cite_note-DVD_commentary_Finerman-47) The American Museum of Natural History (/wiki/American_Museum_of_Natural_History) was used for the exterior of the museum benefit, while the lobby of one of the Foley Square (/wiki/Foley_Square) courthouses is used for the interior. [43] (#cite_note-DVD_commentary_Frankel-44) The Priestly townhouse (/wiki/Townhouse) is on the Upper East Side (/wiki/Upper_East_Side) and belongs to a friend of Finerman's. It had to be dressed on short notice after another one could not be used. [46] (#cite_note-DVD_commentary_Finerman-47) Christian gives Andy the unpublished Harry Potter manuscript at the St. Regis Hotel (/wiki/St._Regis_New_York) 's King Cole Bar. [70] (#cite_note-Buzzfeed_2016_locations_article-72) The Amtrak (/wiki/Amtrak) train the twins are taking is going up the Hudson River (/wiki/Hudson_River) at Haverstraw Bay (/wiki/Haverstraw_Bay) . Streep exits her limousine (/wiki/Limousine) , supposedly in Paris (/wiki/Paris) , at 77th Street and Central Park West (/wiki/Central_Park_West) . The New York Mirror newsroom where Andy gets hired at the end of the film is that of the now-defunct New York Sun (/wiki/The_New_York_Sun) . [43] (#cite_note-DVD_commentary_Frankel-44) The café where Andy apologizes to Nate was the Mayrose at 920 Broadway (near the Flatiron Building (/wiki/Flatiron_Building) ), which has since closed. On its site is a Flying Tiger Copenhagen (/wiki/Flying_Tiger_Copenhagen) store. Paris [ edit ] The crew were in Paris for only two days, and used only exteriors. Streep did not make the trip. [8] (#cite_note-Hollywood_Reporter-8) The fountain Andy throws her phone into is on the Place de la Concorde (/wiki/Place_de_la_Concorde) . All the hotel interiors are actually the St. Regis (/wiki/St._Regis_New_York) in Manhattan (/wiki/Manhattan) . The fashion shows were filmed on a soundstage (/wiki/Soundstage) in Queens (/wiki/Queens) . Likewise, Christian's hotel is the W Hotel (/wiki/W_Hotels) at Times Square (/wiki/Times_Square) . [43] (#cite_note-DVD_commentary_Frankel-44) Post-production [ edit ] Editing [ edit ] Mark Livolsi (/wiki/Mark_Livolsi) realized, as McKenna had on the other end, that the film worked best when it focused on the Andrea-Miranda storyline. Accordingly, he cut a number of primarily transitional scenes, such as Andrea's job interview and the Runway staff's trip to Holt's studio. He also took out a scene early on where Miranda complimented Andrea. Upon reviewing them for the DVD, Frankel admitted he had not even seen them before, since Livolsi did not include them in any prints he sent to the director. [47] (#cite_note-DVD_commentary_on_deleted_scenes-48) Frankel praised Livolsi for making the film's four key montages (/wiki/Montage_(film)) —the opening credits, Miranda's coat-tossing, Andrea's makeover and the Paris introduction—work. The third was particularly challenging as it uses passing cars and other obstructions to cover Hathaway's changes of outfit. Some scenes were also created in the editing room, such as the reception at the museum, where Livolsi wove B-roll (/wiki/B-roll) footage in to keep the action flowing. [43] (#cite_note-DVD_commentary_Frankel-44) In 2021 McKenna estimated that she had signed off on $10 million in cut scenes. An opening scene in which Andy goes to the wrong building on her way to her interview was taken out to get the story started more quickly. The scene where she misses Nate's birthday was originally more elaborate, with the couple supposed to meet up with their friends at a concert, but that proved to be too expensive, and so the scene with the cupcake was written instead. "We had many versions of that." And an alternate ending for the couple's arc, where they have the same conversation about the future of their relationship while running through the park, was filmed but replaced with the less optimistic scene in the restaurant. [10] (#cite_note-2021_EW_story-10) McKenna had also been willing to cut Miranda's "Florals... for spring. Groundbreaking" line, but Frankel had it kept in. [10] (#cite_note-2021_EW_story-10) Music [ edit ] Further information: The Devil Wears Prada (soundtrack) (/wiki/The_Devil_Wears_Prada_(soundtrack)) Composer Theodore Shapiro (/wiki/Theodore_Shapiro_(composer)) relied heavily on guitar and percussion, with the backing of a full orchestra (/wiki/Orchestra) , to capture a contemporary urban sound. He ultimately wrote 35 minutes of music for the film, which were performed and recorded by the Hollywood Studio Symphony, conducted (/wiki/Conductor_(music)) by Pete Anthony. [71] (#cite_note-Shapiro-73) His work was balanced with songs by U2 (/wiki/U2) (" City of Blinding Lights (/wiki/City_of_Blinding_Lights) ", Miranda and Andy in Paris), Madonna (/wiki/Madonna_(entertainer)) (" Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(Madonna_song)) " & " Jump (/wiki/Jump_(Madonna_song)) ", Andrea's fashion montage & her first day on the job, respectively), KT Tunstall (/wiki/KT_Tunstall) (" Suddenly I See (/wiki/Suddenly_I_See) ", female montage during opening credits (/wiki/Opening_credits) ), Alanis Morissette (/wiki/Alanis_Morissette) (" Crazy (/wiki/Crazy_(Seal_song)) ", Central Park (/wiki/Central_Park) photo shoot), Bitter:Sweet (/wiki/Bitter:Sweet) ("Our Remains," Andy picks up James Holt's sketches for Miranda; Bittersweet Faith, Lily's art show), Azure Ray (/wiki/Azure_Ray) ("Sleep," following the breakdown of her relationship with Nate), Jamiroquai (/wiki/Jamiroquai) ("Seven Days in Sunny June," Andy and Christian meet at James Holt's party) among others. Frankel had wanted to use "City of Blinding Lights" in the film after he had used it as a soundtrack to a video montage of Paris scenes he had put together after scouting locations there. [43] (#cite_note-DVD_commentary_Frankel-44) Likewise, Field had advocated just as strongly for "Vogue". [61] (#cite_note-DVD_commentary_Field-63) The soundtrack album was released on July 11, 2006, by Warner Music (/wiki/Warner_Music_Group) . It includes most of the songs mentioned above, as well as a suite of Shapiro's themes. Among the tracks not included is "Suddenly I See," an omission which disappointed many fans. [72] (#cite_note-Amazon_reviews-74) Pre-release and marketing [ edit ] Originally intended just to convince Fox to fund some shooting in Paris, Frankel's sizzle reel led the studio to put a stronger marketing (/wiki/Marketing) push behind the movie. It moved the release date from February to summer, scheduling it as a lighter alternative audiences could consider to Superman Returns (/wiki/Superman_Returns) at the end of June 2006, and began to position it as an event movie in and of itself. [9] (#cite_note-2016_Variety_anniversary_story-9) Two decisions by the studio's marketing department that were meant to be preliminary wound up being integral to promoting the film. The first was the creation of the red stiletto heel (/wiki/Stiletto_heel) ending in a pitchfork (/wiki/Pitchfork) as the film's teaser poster (/wiki/Movie_poster) . It was so successful and effective, becoming almost "iconic" (in Finerman's words), that it was used for the actual release poster as well. It became a brand, and was eventually used on every medium related to the film—the tie-in reprinting of the novel and the soundtrack (/wiki/Soundtrack_album) and DVD covers as well. [8] (#cite_note-Hollywood_Reporter-8) The studio also put together a trailer (/wiki/Trailer_(film)) of scenes and images strictly from the first three minutes of the film, in which Andy meets Miranda for the first time, to be used at previews and film festivals (/wiki/Film_festival) until they could create a more standard trailer drawing from the whole film. But, again, this proved so effective with early audiences it was retained as the main trailer, since it created anticipation for the rest of the film without giving anything away. [8] (#cite_note-Hollywood_Reporter-8) Gabler credits the studio's marketing team for being "really creative". Fox saw the film as "counter-programming" on the weekend Superman Returns (/wiki/Superman_Returns) was released. While they knew that the material and Hathaway would help draw a younger female audience that would not be as interested in seeing that film, "[w]e didn't want it to just seem like a chick flick (/wiki/Chick_flick) coming out." [7] (#cite_note-Indiewire_anniversary_piece_3-7) Reception [ edit ] The stars of The Devil Wears Prada at the Venice premiere, front row: (left to right) Anne Hathaway (/wiki/Anne_Hathaway) , Stanley Tucci (/wiki/Stanley_Tucci) , Kate Tucci and Meryl Streep (/wiki/Meryl_Streep) . Valentino (/wiki/Valentino_Garavani) can be seen behind and between Stanley and Kate Tucci, and Beatrice Borromeo (/wiki/Beatrice_Borromeo) is partly visible to Stanley Tucci's left. Critical response [ edit ] The Devil Wears Prada received mostly positive reviews from critics. [73] (#cite_note-75) On Rotten Tomatoes (/wiki/Rotten_Tomatoes) the film holds an approval rating of 75% based on 195 reviews, along with an average rating of 6.7/10. The website's critics consensus reads, "A rare film that surpasses the quality of its source novel, this Devil is a witty expose of New York's fashion scene, with Meryl Streep in top form and Anne Hathaway more than holding her own." [74] (#cite_note-76) On Metacritic (/wiki/Metacritic) , the film has a weighted average score of 62 out of 100, based on 40 critics, indicating "generally favorable reviews". [75] (#cite_note-77) Audiences surveyed by CinemaScore (/wiki/CinemaScore) gave the film an average grade "B" on an A+ to F scale. [76] (#cite_note-78) Initial reviews of the film focused primarily on Streep's performance, praising her for making an extremely unsympathetic character far more complex than she had been in the novel. "With her silver hair and pale skin, her whispery diction as perfect as her posture, Ms. Streep's Miranda inspires both terror and a measure of awe," wrote A. O. Scott (/wiki/A._O._Scott) in The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . "No longer simply the incarnation of evil, she is now a vision of aristocratic, purposeful and surprisingly human grace." [77] (#cite_note-NYTreview-79) David Edelstein (/wiki/David_Edelstein) , in New York (/wiki/New_York_(magazine)) magazine, criticized the film as "thin", but praised Streep for her "fabulous minimalist (/wiki/Minimalism) performance". [78] (#cite_note-NYMagReview-80) J. Hoberman, Edelstein's onetime colleague at The Village Voice (/wiki/The_Village_Voice) , called the movie an improvement on the book and said Streep was "the scariest, most nuanced, funniest movie villainess since Tilda Swinton (/wiki/Tilda_Swinton) 's nazified (/wiki/Nazi) White Witch (/wiki/White_Witch) in The Chronicles of Narnia: The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe (/wiki/The_Chronicles_of_Narnia:_The_Lion,_the_Witch_and_the_Wardrobe) . [79] (#cite_note-VillageVoice-81) Blunt, too, earned some favorable notice. "[She] has many of the movie's best lines and steals nearly every scene she's in," wrote Clifford Pugh in the Houston Chronicle (/wiki/Houston_Chronicle) . [80] (#cite_note-Houston_Chron_review-82) Other reviewers and fans concurred. [81] (#cite_note-Christiancritic-83) [82] (#cite_note-popwatch-84) While all critics were in agreement about Streep and Blunt, they pointed to other weaknesses, particularly in the story. Reviewers familiar with Weisberger's novel assented to her judgment that McKenna's script greatly improved upon it. [66] (#cite_note-Denby-68) [77] (#cite_note-NYTreview-79) An exception was Angela Baldassare at The Microsoft Network (/wiki/MSN) Canada, who felt the film needed more of the nastiness others had told her was abundant in the novel. [83] (#cite_note-Baldassare-85) David Denby (/wiki/David_Denby_(film_critic)) summed up this response in his New Yorker (/wiki/The_New_Yorker) review: " The Devil Wears Prada tells a familiar story, and it never goes much below the surface of what it has to tell. Still, what a surface!" [66] (#cite_note-Denby-68) Reactions to Hathaway's performance were not as unanimous as for many of her costars. Denby said "she suggests, with no more than a panicky sidelong glance, what Weisberger takes pages to describe." [66] (#cite_note-Denby-68) Whereas, Baldassare said she "barely carrie[d] the load". [83] (#cite_note-Baldassare-85) Depiction of fashion industry [ edit ] Some media outlets allowed their present or former fashion reporters to weigh in on how realistic the movie was. Their responses varied widely. Booth Moore at Los Angeles Times (/wiki/Los_Angeles_Times) chided Field for creating a "fine fashion fantasy with little to do with reality," a world that reflects what outsiders think fashion is like rather than what the industry actually is. Unlike the movie, in her experience fashionistas were less likely to wear makeup and more likely to value edgier dressing styles (that would not include toe rings (/wiki/Toe_ring) ). [84] (#cite_note-BoothMoore-86) "If they want a documentary, they can watch the History Channel (/wiki/History_(U.S._TV_channel)) ", retorted Field. [59] (#cite_note-Ruth_La_Ferla-61) Fashion writer Hadley Freeman (/wiki/Hadley_Freeman) of The Guardian (/wiki/The_Guardian) , likewise complained the film was awash in the sexism (/wiki/Sexism) and clichés (/wiki/Clich%C3%A9) that, to her, beset movies about fashion in general. [85] (#cite_note-Hadley_Freeman-87) But Charla Krupp, the executive editor of SHOP, Inc., wrote, "It's the first film I've seen that got it right ... [It] has the nuances of the politics and the tension better than any film—and the backstabbing and sucking-up." [58] (#cite_note-Observer_fashion_story-60) Joanna Coles, the editor of the U.S. edition of Marie Claire (/wiki/Marie_Claire) , agreed: The film brilliantly skewers a particular kind of young woman who lives, breathes, thinks fashion above all else ... those young women who are prepared to die rather than go without the latest Muse bag from Yves Saint Laurent (/wiki/Yves_Saint-Laurent_(brand)) that costs three times their monthly salary. It's also accurate in its understanding of the relationship between the editor-in-chief and the assistant. [58] (#cite_note-Observer_fashion_story-60) Ginia Bellefante, former fashion reporter for The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) , called it "easily the truest portrayal of fashion culture since Unzipped (/wiki/Unzipped_(film)) (1995)" and giving it credit for depicting the way fashion had changed in the early 21st century. [86] (#cite_note-Bellefante-88) Her colleague Ruth La Ferla found a different opinion from industry insiders after a special preview screening. Most found the fashion in the movie too safe and the beauty too overstated, more in tune with the 1980s than the 2000s. "My job is to present an entertainment, a world people can visit and take a little trip," responded Field. [59] (#cite_note-Ruth_La_Ferla-61) Commercial [ edit ] On its June 30 opening weekend, right before the Independence Day (/wiki/Independence_Day_(United_States)) holiday, the film was on 2,847 screens. Through that Sunday, July 2, it grossed $27 million, second only to the big-budget Superman Returns (/wiki/Superman_Returns) , [87] (#cite_note-boxofficemojo_opening_weekend-89) breaking The Patriot (/wiki/The_Patriot_(2000_film)) 's six-year-old record for the largest take by a movie released that holiday weekend that did not win the weekend; [88] (#cite_note-boxofficemojo_2000_July_4_weekend-90) a record that stood until Ice Age: Dawn of the Dinosaurs (/wiki/Ice_Age:_Dawn_of_the_Dinosaurs) broke it in 2009. [89] (#cite_note-boxofficemojo_2009_July_4_weekend-91) [c] (#cite_note-93) During its first week it added $13 million. This success led Fox to add 35 more screens the next weekend, the widest domestic distribution the film enjoyed. Although it was never any week's top-grossing film, it remained in the top 10 through July. Its theatrical run continued through December 10, shortly before the DVD release. [91] (#cite_note-boxofficemojo_run_summary-94) "The core marketing was definitely to women," Gabler recalls, "but the men didn't resist going to the movie." She felt that male viewers responded favorably to the movie because they sought a glimpse inside fashion, and because Miranda "was enjoyable to watch". The release date helped generate word of mouth (/wiki/Word_of_mouth) when people who had seen it discussed it at holiday gatherings. "They were talking about it, like a summer reading book," said Gabler. [7] (#cite_note-Indiewire_anniversary_piece_3-7) It had a very successful run in theaters, making nearly $125 million in the United States and Canada and over $326 million worldwide, [1] (#cite_note-boxofficemojo-1) a career-high for all three top-billed actresses at that time. Streep would surpass it two years later with Mamma Mia (/wiki/Mamma_Mia!_(film)) [92] (#cite_note-Streep_lifetime_box_office-95) while Hathaway exceeded it in 2010 with Alice in Wonderland (/wiki/Alice_in_Wonderland_(2010_film)) . [93] (#cite_note-Hathaway_lifetime_box_office-96) [d] (#cite_note-98) Blunt would not be in a higher-grossing film until 2014 with Edge of Tomorrow (/wiki/Edge_of_Tomorrow) . [95] (#cite_note-Blunt_lifetime_box_office-99) [e] (#cite_note-101) It was also Tucci's highest-grossing film until Captain America: The First Avenger (/wiki/Captain_America:_The_First_Avenger) (2011). [97] (#cite_note-Tucci_lifetime_box_office-102) Anna Wintour [ edit ] Anna Wintour (/wiki/Anna_Wintour) , on whom Miranda is supposedly based, was at first skeptical of the film but later came to appreciate it. Anna Wintour (/wiki/Anna_Wintour) attended the film's New York premiere (/wiki/Premiere) , wearing Prada (/wiki/Prada) . Her friend Barbara Amiel (/wiki/Barbara_Amiel) reported that she said shortly afterward that the movie would go straight to DVD. [98] (#cite_note-Amiel-103) McKenna said later that Wintour and her daughter Bee sat in front of her and Frankel. The latter, McKenna recalls, kept telling her mother that the film got many things right. [10] (#cite_note-2021_EW_story-10) In an interview with Barbara Walters (/wiki/Barbara_Walters) that aired the day the DVD was released, she called the film "really entertaining" and said she appreciated the "decisive" nature of Streep's portrayal. "Anything that makes fashion entertaining and glamorous and interesting is wonderful for our industry. So I was 100 percent behind it." [6] (#cite_note-Barbara_Walters-6) Streep said Wintour was "probably more upset by the book than the film". [99] (#cite_note-Streep_on_Wintour-104) Wintour's popularity skyrocketed after her portrayal in The Devil Wears Prada . Streep said she did not base her character in The Devil Wears Prada on Anna Wintour, instead saying she was inspired by men she had known previously: "Unfortunately you don't have enough women in power, or at least I don't know them, to copy." [100] (#cite_note-105) Frankel believes Wintour may still harbor some hard feelings about the movie. He was again seated behind her some years later at a tennis tournament in Miami, and afterwards introduced himself. When he told her that he had directed The Devil Wears Prada , he recalls, she took her hand out of the handshake. [10] (#cite_note-2021_EW_story-10) At the end of a 2024 performance of Gutenberg! The Musical! (/wiki/Gutenberg!_The_Musical!) , Wintour played the producer (a cameo role given to a different celebrity every night) who offers stars Josh Gad (/wiki/Josh_Gad) and Andrew Rannells (/wiki/Andrew_Rannells) a contract to produce the musical they have been developing over the course of the show. She introduced Hathaway as her assistant, who said "Still?" [101] (#cite_note-106) International [ edit ] From top-down: the movie title logo for Latin America (/wiki/Latin_America) , English-language regions and Spain (/wiki/Spain) (in the same typeface as that used on the poster). Weisberger's novel has been translated into 37 different languages, giving the movie a strong potential foreign audience. The international box office would ultimately deliver 60% of the film's gross. "We did our European premiere at the Venice Film Festival (/wiki/Venice_Film_Festival) ", Gabler says, where the city's gondoliers (/wiki/Gondola) wore red T-shirts with the film's logo. "So many people around the world were captivated by the glossy fashion world. It was sexy and international." [7] (#cite_note-Indiewire_anniversary_piece_3-7) The Devil Wears Prada topped the charts on its first major European release weekend on October 9, after a strong September Oceania and Latin America opening. It would be the highest-grossing film that weekend in the United Kingdom, Spain and Russia, taking in $41.5 million overall. [102] (#cite_note-Boxofficemojo_overseas_opening-107) The film continued with strong weekends as it opened across the rest of Europe, which helped it remain atop the overseas charts for the rest of the month. [103] (#cite_note-boxofficemojo_10/16-108) [104] (#cite_note-boxofficemojo_10/23-109) [105] (#cite_note-boxofficemojo_10/30-110) By the end of the year, only its Chinese opening remained; it was released in the country at the end of February 2007 and took in $2.4 million. [106] (#cite_note-International_box_office-111) The greatest portion of the $201.8 million total international box office came from the United Kingdom, with $26.5 million. Germany was second, with $23.1 million, followed by Italy at $19.3 million and France at $17.9 million. Beyond Europe, the Japanese box office was the highest, at $14.6 million, followed by Australia, at $12.6 million. [106] (#cite_note-International_box_office-111) Most reviews from the international press echoed the domestic responses, heaping praise on Streep and the other actors, but similarly, calling the whole film "predictable". [107] (#cite_note-Observer_review-112) The Guardian (/wiki/The_Guardian) ' s Peter Bradshaw (/wiki/Peter_Bradshaw) , who found the film "moderately entertaining," took Blunt to task, calling her a "real disappointment ... strained and awkward". [108] (#cite_note-Guardian_review-113) In The Independent (/wiki/The_Independent) , Anthony Quinn said Streep "may just have given us a classic here" and concluded that the film as a whole was "as snappy and juicy as fresh bubblegum". [109] (#cite_note-Independent_review-114) In most markets the title remained unchanged; either the English-language logo and name were used, or a translation was made into the local language. Exceptions in Latin America were made in Chile, Colombia, Ecuador, Mexico and Venezuela, where it is titled El diablo que viste Prada and El diablo se viste a la moda ("the devil that wears Prada" and "the devil is fashionable", respectively). In Polish (/wiki/Polish_language) , the title is Diabeł ubiera się u Prady , which roughly translates to "the devil dresses (itself) at Prada" or "in Prada’s", rather than the literal "the devil wears Prada". In Italian (/wiki/Italian_language) , the title is Il diavolo veste Prada , which literally means "the devil wears Prada". In Turkish (/wiki/Turkish_language) , the title is Şeytan Marka Giyer , roughly translated as "the devil wears brand-names" or "brands". In Romanian (/wiki/Romanian_language) , the title is Diavolul se îmbracă de la Prada , which roughly means "the devil dresses itself from/of Prada", the same construction being similarly echoed in the French (/wiki/French_language) title, Le Diable s'habille en Prada ("the devil dresses in Prada"). The Japanese (/wiki/Japanese_language) version is titled プラダを着た悪魔 which translates to "the devil wearing Prada". Awards and nominations [ edit ] Three months after the film's North American release (October 2006), Frankel and Weisberger jointly accepted the first Quill (/wiki/Quill_Awards) Variety (/wiki/Variety_(magazine)) Blockbuster Book to Film Award. A committee of staffers at the magazine made the nominations and chose the award winner. Editor Peter Bart (/wiki/Peter_Bart) praised both works. The Devil Wears Prada is an energetically directed, perfect-fit of a film that has surprised some in the industry with its box-office legs. It has delighted the country, much as did Lauren Weisberger's book, which is still going strong on several national bestseller lists. [110] (#cite_note-Quill_press_release-115) The film was honored (/wiki/National_Board_of_Review_Awards_2006) by the National Board of Review (/wiki/National_Board_of_Review) as one of the year's ten best. [111] (#cite_note-National_Board-116) The American Film Institute (/wiki/American_Film_Institute) gave the film similar recognition (/wiki/American_Film_Institute_Awards_2006) . [112] (#cite_note-AFI-117) The film received ample attention from the Hollywood Foreign Press Association (/wiki/Hollywood_Foreign_Press_Association) when its Golden Globe Award (/wiki/Golden_Globe_Award) nominations (/wiki/64th_Golden_Globe_Awards) were announced in December. The film itself was in the running for Best Picture (Comedy/Musical) and Supporting Actress (for Blunt). Streep later won the Globe for Best Actress (Musical/Comedy). [113] (#cite_note-Golden_Globe_win-118) In January 2007, Streep's fellow members of the Screen Actors Guild (/wiki/Screen_Actors_Guild) nominated (/wiki/2006_Screen_Actors_Guild_Awards) her for Best Actress as well. [114] (#cite_note-SAG_award-119) Four days later, at the National Society of Film Critics (/wiki/National_Society_of_Film_Critics) awards (/wiki/National_Society_of_Film_Critics_Awards_2006) , Streep won Best Supporting Actress for her work both in Devil and A Prairie Home Companion (/wiki/A_Prairie_Home_Companion_(film)) . [115] (#cite_note-NSFC_awards-120) McKenna earned a nomination from the Writers Guild of America Award (/wiki/Writers_Guild_of_America_Award) for Best Adapted Screenplay. [116] (#cite_note-WGA_nomination-121) When the British Academy of Film and Television Arts (/wiki/British_Academy_of_Film_and_Television_Arts) announced its 2006 nominations (/wiki/60th_British_Academy_Film_Awards) , Blunt, Field, McKenna and Streep were all among the nominees. Makeup artist and hairstylists (/wiki/Hairstylist) Nicki Ledermann and Angel de Angelis also were nominated. [117] (#cite_note-BAFTA_nominations-122) At the end of January, Streep received her 14th Academy Award (/wiki/Academy_Award) nomination (/wiki/79th_Academy_Awards) for Best Actress (/wiki/Academy_Award_for_Best_Actress) , lengthening her record from 13 for most nominations by any actor, male or female. Field received a Best Costume Design (/wiki/Academy_Award_for_Best_Costume_Design) nomination as well. [118] (#cite_note-Oscar_noms-123) Neither won, but Blunt and Hathaway presented the last mentioned award, amusing the audience by slipping into their characters for a few lines, nervously asking which of them had gotten Streep her cappuccino (/wiki/Cappuccino) . Streep played along with a stern expression before smiling. [119] (#cite_note-Oscar_night-124) Award Date of ceremony Category Recipient(s) Result Academy Awards (/wiki/Academy_Awards) February 25, 2007 (/wiki/79th_Academy_Awards) Best Actress (/wiki/Academy_Award_for_Best_Actress) Meryl Streep (/wiki/Meryl_Streep) Nominated Best Costume Design (/wiki/Academy_Award_for_Best_Costume_Design) Patricia Field (/wiki/Patricia_Field) Nominated ACE Eddie Awards (/wiki/American_Cinema_Editors) February 18, 2007 (/wiki/American_Cinema_Editors_Awards_2007) Best Edited Feature Film – Comedy or Musical (/wiki/American_Cinema_Editors_Award_for_Best_Edited_Feature_Film_%E2%80%93_Comedy_or_Musical) Mark Livolsi (/wiki/Mark_Livolsi) Nominated AFI Awards (/wiki/American_Film_Institute#AFI_Awards) January 12, 2007 (/wiki/American_Film_Institute_Awards_2006) Movie of the Year The Devil Wears Prada Won African-American Film Critics Association (/wiki/African-American_Film_Critics_Association) Awards December 22, 2006 (/wiki/African-American_Film_Critics_Association_Awards_2006) Top 10 Films Won Alliance of Women Film Journalists (/wiki/Alliance_of_Women_Film_Journalists) ' EDA Awards December 2006 Best Comedy by or About Women David Frankel (/wiki/David_Frankel) Nominated Best Actress in a Comedic Performance Meryl Streep (/wiki/Meryl_Streep) Won Best Screenplay Written by a Woman Aline Brosh McKenna (/wiki/Aline_Brosh_McKenna) Nominated Awards Circuit Community Awards December 2006 Best Actress in a Leading Role Meryl Streep (/wiki/Meryl_Streep) Nominated Best Actress in a Supporting Role Emily Blunt (/wiki/Emily_Blunt) Nominated BMI Film & TV Awards (/wiki/BMI_Award) May 16, 2007 BMI Film Music Theodore Shapiro (/wiki/Theodore_Shapiro_(composer)) Won Boston Society of Film Critics (/wiki/Boston_Society_of_Film_Critics) Awards December 11, 2006 (/wiki/Boston_Society_of_Film_Critics_Awards_2006) Boston Society of Film Critics Award for Best Supporting Actress (/wiki/Boston_Society_of_Film_Critics_Award_for_Best_Supporting_Actress) Meryl Streep (/wiki/Meryl_Streep) Nominated British Academy Film Awards (/wiki/British_Academy_Film_Awards) February 11, 2007 (/wiki/60th_British_Academy_Film_Awards) Best Actress in a Leading Role (/wiki/BAFTA_Award_for_Best_Actress_in_a_Leading_Role) Nominated Best Actress in a Supporting Role (/wiki/BAFTA_Award_for_Best_Actress_in_a_Supporting_Role) Emily Blunt (/wiki/Emily_Blunt) Nominated Best Adapted Screenplay (/wiki/BAFTA_Award_for_Best_Adapted_Screenplay) Aline Brosh McKenna (/wiki/Aline_Brosh_McKenna) Nominated Best Costume Design (/wiki/BAFTA_Award_for_Best_Costume_Design) Patricia Field (/wiki/Patricia_Field) Nominated Best Makeup and Hair (/wiki/BAFTA_Award_for_Best_Makeup_and_Hair) Nicki Ledermann Angel De Angelis Nominated Central Ohio Film Critics Association Awards January 11, 2007 Best Actress Meryl Streep (/wiki/Meryl_Streep) Nominated Chicago Film Critics Association (/wiki/Chicago_Film_Critics_Association) Awards December 28, 2006 (/wiki/Chicago_Film_Critics_Association_Awards_2006) Best Actress (/wiki/Chicago_Film_Critics_Association_Award_for_Best_Actress) Nominated Costume Designers Guild (/wiki/Costume_Designers_Guild) Awards February 2007 (/wiki/Costume_Designers_Guild_Awards_2006) Excellence in Costume Design for a Contemporary Film Patricia Field (/wiki/Patricia_Field) Nominated Critics' Choice Awards (/wiki/Critics%27_Choice_Movie_Award) January 20, 2007 (/wiki/12th_Critics%27_Choice_Awards) Best Comedy (/wiki/Critics%27_Choice_Movie_Award_for_Best_Comedy) The Devil Wears Prada Nominated Best Actress (/wiki/Critics%27_Choice_Movie_Award_for_Best_Actress) Meryl Streep (/wiki/Meryl_Streep) Nominated Dallas–Fort Worth Film Critics Association (/wiki/Dallas%E2%80%93Fort_Worth_Film_Critics_Association) Awards December 19, 2006 (/wiki/Dallas%E2%80%93Fort_Worth_Film_Critics_Association_Awards_2006) Dallas–Fort Worth Film Critics Association Award for Best Actress (/wiki/Dallas%E2%80%93Fort_Worth_Film_Critics_Association_Award_for_Best_Actress) Nominated Dallas–Fort Worth Film Critics Association Award for Best Supporting Actress (/wiki/Dallas%E2%80%93Fort_Worth_Film_Critics_Association_Award_for_Best_Supporting_Actress) Emily Blunt (/wiki/Emily_Blunt) Nominated Dublin Film Critics' Circle (/wiki/Dublin_Film_Critics%27_Circle) Awards December 2006 Best Supporting Actress Meryl Streep (/wiki/Meryl_Streep) Nominated Golden Globe Awards (/wiki/Golden_Globe_Award) January 15, 2007 (/wiki/64th_Golden_Globe_Awards) Best Motion Picture – Musical or Comedy (/wiki/Golden_Globe_Award_for_Best_Motion_Picture_%E2%80%93_Musical_or_Comedy) The Devil Wears Prada Nominated Best Actress – Motion Picture Musical or Comedy (/wiki/Golden_Globe_Award_for_Best_Actress_in_a_Motion_Picture_%E2%80%93_Comedy_or_Musical) Meryl Streep (/wiki/Meryl_Streep) Won Best Supporting Actress – Motion Picture (/wiki/Golden_Globe_Award_for_Best_Supporting_Actress_%E2%80%93_Motion_Picture) Emily Blunt (/wiki/Emily_Blunt) Nominated Golden Schmoes Awards December 2006 Best Supporting Actress of the Year Nominated Jupiter Awards March 2007 Best International Actress Meryl Streep (/wiki/Meryl_Streep) | style="background: #FFE3E3; color: black; vertical-align: middle; text-align: center; " class="no table-no2 notheme"|Nominated Anne Hathaway (/wiki/Anne_Hathaway) Nominated London Film Critics' Circle (/wiki/London_Film_Critics%27_Circle) Awards February 8, 2007 (/wiki/London_Film_Critics_Circle_Awards_2006) Actress of the Year (/wiki/London_Film_Critics%27_Circle_Award_for_Actress_of_the_Year) Meryl Streep (/wiki/Meryl_Streep) Won British Supporting Actress of the Year (/wiki/London_Film_Critics%27_Circle_Award_for_British_Supporting_Actress_of_the_Year) Emily Blunt (/wiki/Emily_Blunt) Won MTV Movie Awards (/wiki/MTV_Movie_Awards) June 3, 2007 (/wiki/2007_MTV_Movie_Awards) Best Breakthrough Performance (/wiki/MTV_Movie_Award_for_Best_Breakthrough_Performance) Nominated Best Villain (/wiki/MTV_Movie_Award_for_Best_Villain) Meryl Streep (/wiki/Meryl_Streep) Nominated Best Comedic Performance (/wiki/MTV_Movie_Award_for_Best_Comedic_Performance) Emily Blunt (/wiki/Emily_Blunt) Nominated MTV Russia Movie Awards (/wiki/MTV_Russia_Movie_Awards) April 19, 2007 (/wiki/MTV_Russia_Movie_Awards#2007) Best International Movie The Devil Wears Prada Nominated National Board of Review (/wiki/National_Board_of_Review) Awards January 9, 2007 (/wiki/National_Board_of_Review_Awards_2006) Top Ten Films (/wiki/National_Board_of_Review:_Top_Ten_Films) Won National Society of Film Critics (/wiki/National_Society_of_Film_Critics) Awards January 6, 2007 (/wiki/2006_National_Society_of_Film_Critics_Awards) Best Supporting Actress (/wiki/National_Society_of_Film_Critics_Award_for_Best_Supporting_Actress) Meryl Streep (/wiki/Meryl_Streep) Won New York Film Critics Circle (/wiki/New_York_Film_Critics_Circle) Awards December 11, 2006 (/wiki/2006_New_York_Film_Critics_Circle_Awards) Best Actress (/wiki/New_York_Film_Critics_Circle_Award_for_Best_Actress) Nominated North Texas Film Critics Association Awards January 21, 2007 Best Actress Won Online Film & Television Association Awards February 10, 2007 Nominated Best Costume Design Patricia Field (/wiki/Patricia_Field) Nominated Online Film Critics Society (/wiki/Online_Film_Critics_Society) Awards January 8, 2007 (/wiki/Online_Film_Critics_Society_Awards_2006) Best Actress (/wiki/Online_Film_Critics_Society_Award_for_Best_Actress) Meryl Streep (/wiki/Meryl_Streep) Nominated People's Choice Awards (/wiki/People%27s_Choice_Awards) January 9, 2007 (/wiki/33rd_People%27s_Choice_Awards) Favorite Song from a Movie " Crazy (/wiki/Crazy_(Seal_song)#Alanis_Morissette_version) " – Alanis Morissette (/wiki/Alanis_Morissette) Nominated Rembrandt Awards (/wiki/Rembrandt_Award) March 2007 (/wiki/Rembrandt_Awards_2007) Best International Actress Meryl Streep (/wiki/Meryl_Streep) Won Satellite Awards (/wiki/Satellite_Awards) December 18, 2006 (/wiki/11th_Satellite_Awards) Best Motion Picture – Musical or Comedy (/wiki/Satellite_Award_for_Best_Film) The Devil Wears Prada Nominated Best Actress – Motion Picture Musical or Comedy (/wiki/Satellite_Award_for_Best_Actress_%E2%80%93_Motion_Picture) Meryl Streep (/wiki/Meryl_Streep) Won Satellite Award for Best Costume Design (/wiki/Satellite_Award_for_Best_Costume_Design) Patricia Field (/wiki/Patricia_Field) Won Screen Actors Guild Awards (/wiki/Screen_Actors_Guild_Award) January 28, 2007 (/wiki/13th_Screen_Actors_Guild_Awards) Outstanding Performance by a Female Actor in a Leading Role (/wiki/Screen_Actors_Guild_Award_for_Outstanding_Performance_by_a_Female_Actor_in_a_Leading_Role) Meryl Streep (/wiki/Meryl_Streep) Nominated St. Louis Gateway Film Critics Association (/wiki/St._Louis_Gateway_Film_Critics_Association) Awards January 7, 2007 (/wiki/St._Louis_Gateway_Film_Critics_Association_Awards_2006) Best Supporting Actress (/wiki/St._Louis_Gateway_Film_Critics_Association_Award_for_Best_Supporting_Actress) Nominated Teen Choice Awards (/wiki/Teen_Choice_Awards) August 20, 2006 (/wiki/2006_Teen_Choice_Awards) Choice Summer Movie: Comedy The Devil Wears Prada Nominated Choice Movie: Chemistry Meryl Streep (/wiki/Meryl_Streep) Anne Hathaway (/wiki/Anne_Hathaway) Nominated Choice Movie: Breakout Star – Female Emily Blunt (/wiki/Emily_Blunt) Nominated Choice Movie: Villain (/wiki/Teen_Choice_Award_for_Choice_Movie_Villain) Meryl Streep (/wiki/Meryl_Streep) Nominated USC Scripter Awards (/wiki/USC_Scripter_Award) February 18, 2007 (/wiki/USC_Scripter_Award_2006) Best Screenplay Aline Brosh McKenna (/wiki/Aline_Brosh_McKenna) Lauren Weisberger (/wiki/Lauren_Weisberger) Nominated Vancouver Film Critics Circle (/wiki/Vancouver_Film_Critics_Circle) Awards January 9, 2007 (/wiki/Vancouver_Film_Critics_Circle_Awards_2006) Best Supporting Actress (/wiki/Vancouver_Film_Critics_Circle_Award_for_Best_Supporting_Actress) Meryl Streep (/wiki/Meryl_Streep) Nominated Women Film Critics Circle (/wiki/Women_Film_Critics_Circle) Awards December 14, 2006 Best Comedic Performance Won Best Woman Storyteller Aline Brosh McKenna (/wiki/Aline_Brosh_McKenna) Won Writers Guild of America Awards (/wiki/Writers_Guild_of_America_Award) February 11, 2007 (/wiki/Writers_Guild_of_America_Awards_2006) Best Adapted Screenplay (/wiki/Writers_Guild_of_America_Award_for_Best_Adapted_Screenplay) Nominated In other media [ edit ] The success of the film led to a proposed, but unrealized, American dramedy (/wiki/Dramedy) series that was in contention to air for the 2007–08 television season on Fox (/wiki/Fox_Broadcasting_Company) . It was to be produced by Fox Television Studios (/wiki/Fox_Television_Studios) , with the premise adjusted for the confines of a traditional half-hour or one-hour dramedy (/wiki/Dramedy) with a single camera (/wiki/Single_camera) set-up. However, it never reached the point of even producing a pilot episode (/wiki/Television_pilot) . [120] (#cite_note-TV_series_proposal-125) With the video release came renewed interest in Weisberger's novel. It ranked eighth on USA Today (/wiki/USA_Today) 's list of 2006 best sellers (/wiki/Best_seller) [121] (#cite_note-USA_Today_2006_best_sellers-126) and was the second most borrowed book in American libraries. [122] (#cite_note-Books_Most_Borrowed-127) The audiobook (/wiki/Audiobook) version was released in October 2006 and quickly made it to third on that medium's fiction best seller list. [123] (#cite_note-Audiobook_sales-128) Home media [ edit ] The DVD was released on December 12, 2006, and has, in addition to the film, the following extras: [124] (#cite_note-DVD_review-129) Audio commentary (/wiki/Audio_commentary) from Frankel, editor (/wiki/Film_editor) Mark Livolsi, Field, screenwriter Aline Brosh McKenna, producer Wendy Finerman and cinematographer Florian Ballhaus (/wiki/Florian_Ballhaus) . A five-minute blooper reel (/wiki/Blooper_reel) featuring, among other shots, unintentional pratfalls by Hathaway due to the high stiletto heels (/wiki/Stiletto_heel) she had to wear. It also includes gag shots such as a chubby crewmember in loose-fitting clothing walking along the runway (/wiki/Catwalk) at the fashion show, and Streep announcing "I have some nude photographs to show you" at the Paris brunch scene. [125] (#cite_note-blooper_reel-130) Unlike most blooper reels, it is not a collection of sequential takes but rather a fast-paced montage set to music from the film with many backstage shots and a split screenshot (/wiki/Split_screen_(film)) allowing the viewer to compare the actual shot with the blooper. The many shots of actors touching their noses are, Rich Sommer (/wiki/Rich_Sommer) says, a game played to assign blame for ruined takes. [126] (#cite_note-Sommmer_Fun-131) Five featurettes (/wiki/Featurette) "Trip to the Big Screen", a 12-minute look at the film's pre-production (/wiki/Pre-production) , discussing the changes made from the novel, how Frankel was chosen to direct and other issues. "NYC and Fashion", a look at the real New York fashion scene and how it is portrayed in the film. "Fashion Visionary Patricia Field", a profile of the film's costume designer. "Getting Valentino", covering how the designer was persuaded to appear as himself in the film. "Boss from Hell", a short segment on difficult, nightmarish superiors like Priestly. Fifteen deleted scenes (/wiki/Deleted_scene) , with commentary from Frankel and Livolsi available (see below). The theatrical trailer (/wiki/Trailer_(film)) , and promotional spots for the soundtrack album and other releases. Closed captions (/wiki/Closed_captions) in French and Spanish are also available. The DVD is available in both full screen and widescreen versions. Pictures of the cast and the tagline (/wiki/Tagline) "Hell on Heels" were added to the red-heel image for the cover. It was released in the UK on February 5, 2007. A Blu-ray Disc (/wiki/Blu-ray_Disc) of the film was released simultaneously with the DVD. The Blu-ray maintains the same features as the DVD; however, the featurettes were dropped and replaced with a subtitle (/wiki/Subtitle_(captioning)) pop-up trivia track that can be watched by itself or along with the audio commentary. [127] (#cite_note-Blu-Ray_review-132) Reception [ edit ] Immediately upon its December 12 release, it became the top rental in the United States. It held that spot through the end of the year, adding another $26.5 million to the film's grosses; it dropped out of the top 50 at the end of March, with its grosses almost doubling. [128] (#cite_note-boxofficemojo_DVD_rentals-133) The following week it made its debut on the DVD sales charts in third position. By the end of 2007 it had sold nearly 5.6 million units, for a total of $94.4 million in sales. [129] (#cite_note-DVD_sales-134) Deleted scenes [ edit ] Among the deleted scenes are some that added more background information to the story, with commentary available by the editor and director. Most were deleted by Livolsi in favor of keeping the plot focused on the conflict between Miranda and Andrea, often without consulting Frankel. [47] (#cite_note-DVD_commentary_on_deleted_scenes-48) Frankel generally approved of his editor's choices, but differed on one scene, showing more of Andy on her errand to the Calvin Klein (/wiki/Calvin_Klein) showroom. He felt that scene showed Andrea's job was about more than running personal errands for Miranda. [47] (#cite_note-DVD_commentary_on_deleted_scenes-48) A different version of the scene at the gala was the subject of a 2017 discussion on Twitter (/wiki/Twitter) when it was rediscovered by Spencer Althouse, BuzzFeed (/wiki/BuzzFeed) ' s community manager. In it, instead of Andy reminding Miranda of a guest's name after the sickened Emily cannot, Miranda's husband shows up and makes rude comments to not only his wife but Ravitz, the head of Elias-Clark. Andy earns a silent "thank you" from Miranda when she helps prevent the confrontation from escalating by diverting Ravitz with a question of her own. [130] (#cite_note-2017_Glamour_deleted_scene_article-135) Althouse and many of the other participants on the thread disagreed as to whether it should have been used; those who said it was properly cut believed that it would have been out of character for Miranda at that point in the film. All agreed, as Glamour (/wiki/Glamour_(magazine)) wrote, that "[t]his one, brief exchange would have completely changed the movie." [130] (#cite_note-2017_Glamour_deleted_scene_article-135) Cultural impact and legacy [ edit ] In 2016, around the 10th anniversary of the film's release, Vanity Fair (/wiki/Vanity_Fair_(magazine)) did a rundown of some Independence Day (/wiki/Independence_Day_(United_States)) weekend movie box results from the previous 15 years, noting how some better-remembered films had been bested by films that have not stood the test of time. It called Superman Returns (/wiki/Superman_Returns) ' win over The Devil Wears Prada the "most ironic" of these victories. "[T]he degree to which The Devil Wears Prada has penetrated pop culture needs no explanation–as does the degree to which Superman Returns didn't." [131] (#cite_note-VF_Independence_Day_weekends-136) The cast's opinions on why the movie has endured differ. Hathaway told Variety that she thinks many people relate to Andy's predicament of working for someone who seems impossible to please. "Everybody has had an experience like this." Tucci did not believe specific explanations were necessary. "It's a fucking brilliant movie ... The brilliant movies become influential, no matter what they are about." [9] (#cite_note-2016_Variety_anniversary_story-9) Cast [ edit ] In its anniversary story, Variety (/wiki/Variety_(magazine)) argued that it had benefited all three of its lead actresses. In addition to Streep's record-setting Oscar nomination, the magazine observed, it had proven that she could be a box-office draw by herself, opening doors up for her to be cast as a lead in later summer movies such as Mamma Mia! (/wiki/Mamma_Mia!_(film)) (2008) and Julie & Julia (/wiki/Julie_%26_Julia) (2009). For Hathaway, it was her first leading role in a film intended for an adult audience. Subsequent producers were impressed that she had held her own playing opposite Streep, which led eventually to her being cast in more serious roles like Rachel Getting Married (/wiki/Rachel_Getting_Married) (2008) and Les Misérables (/wiki/Les_Mis%C3%A9rables_(2012_film)) (2012), for which she won an Oscar. "I think what people saw was promising—it made people want to see more." [9] (#cite_note-2016_Variety_anniversary_story-9) Hathaway believes that Blunt's career took off because of her role. "I've never witnessed a star being born before," Hathaway says. "That's the first time I watched it happen." Blunt agrees that it was "a night and day change" for her—the day after the film was released, she told Variety , the staff at the coffee shop she had been going to for breakfast every morning in Los Angeles suddenly recognized her. Even ten years later, people still quote her lines from the film back to her at least once a week, she says. [9] (#cite_note-2016_Variety_anniversary_story-9) Audience demographics [ edit ] "[The film] definitely paved the way for the filmmakers and distributors of the world to know that there was a female audience that was really strong out there", Gabler recalls, one that was not segmented by age. She pointed to later movies, such as Mamma Mia! , 27 Dresses (/wiki/27_Dresses) (2008) (written by McKenna) and Me Before You (/wiki/Me_Before_You_(film)) (2016), that appeared to her to be trying to replicate The Devil Wears Prada 's success with that demographic. However, Gabler feels they did not do so as well. " Prada reminds me of movies that we don't have a lot of now—it harkens back to classic movies that had so much more than just one kind of plot line ... You just keep wanting to find something that can touch upon the same zeitgeist as this film." [7] (#cite_note-Indiewire_anniversary_piece_3-7) For Streep, the most significant thing about the film was that "[t]his was the first time, on any movie I have ever made, where men came up to me and said, 'I know what you felt like, this is kind of like my life.' That was for me the most ground-breaking thing about Devil Wears Prada —it engaged men on a visceral level," she told Indiewire (/wiki/Indiewire) . [7] (#cite_note-Indiewire_anniversary_piece_3-7) Popular culture and society [ edit ] The film has made a lasting impact on popular culture (/wiki/Popular_culture) . Although a TV series based on it was not picked up, in the years after its release The Simpsons (/wiki/The_Simpsons) titled an episode " The Devil Wears Nada (/wiki/The_Devil_Wears_Nada) " and parodied some scenes. The American version (/wiki/The_Office_(U.S._TV_series)) of The Office (/wiki/The_Office_(UK_TV_series)) began an episode (/wiki/Money_(The_Office)) with Steve Carell (/wiki/Steve_Carell) as Michael Scott (/wiki/Michael_Scott_(The_Office)) imitating Miranda after watching the film on Netflix (/wiki/Netflix) . On episode 18 of season 14 of Keeping Up with the Kardashians (/wiki/Keeping_Up_with_the_Kardashians) , Kris Jenner (/wiki/Kris_Jenner) dressed as Miranda, channeling her 'Boss Lady' persona. [132] (#cite_note-137) [133] (#cite_note-138) In 2019, reports that Minnesota (/wiki/Minnesota) Senator (/wiki/United_States_Senate) Amy Klobuchar (/wiki/Amy_Klobuchar) , then seeking (/wiki/Amy_Klobuchar_2020_presidential_campaign) the Democratic (/wiki/Democratic_Party_(United_States)) presidential nomination for the 2020 election (/wiki/2020_United_States_presidential_election) , mistreated her staff and made unreasonable demands of them led some writers to invoke Miranda as a point of reference. [134] (#cite_note-Toronto_Star_Klobuchar_column-139) [135] (#cite_note-HuffPo_Klobuchar_story-140) In 2008, The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) wrote that the movie had defined the image of a personal assistant (/wiki/Personal_assistant) in the public mind. [136] (#cite_note-NYT_on_personal_assistants-141) Seven years later, Dissent (/wiki/Dissent_(American_magazine)) 's Francesca Mari wrote about "the assistant economy" by which many creative professionals rely on workers so titled to do menial personal and professional tasks for them; she pointed to The Devil Wears Prada as the best-known narrative of assistantship. [137] (#cite_note-Dissent_article-142) The next year, writing about a proposed change in U.S. federal overtime (/wiki/Overtime) regulations that was seen as threatening to that practice, the Times called it the ' Devil Wears Prada ' economy", [138] (#cite_note-NYT_DWP_economy_story-143) a term other news outlets also used. [139] (#cite_note-Salon_DWP_economy_article-144) On the film's 10th anniversary, Alyssa Rosenberg wrote in The Washington Post (/wiki/The_Washington_Post) that Miranda anticipated female antiheroines (/wiki/Antihero) of popular television series of the later 2000s and 2010s such as Scandal (/wiki/Scandal_(TV_series)) ' s Olivia Pope (/wiki/Olivia_Pope) and Cersei Lannister (/wiki/Cersei_Lannister) in Game of Thrones (/wiki/Game_of_Thrones) . Like them, she observes, Miranda competently assumes a position of authority often held by male characters, despite her moral failings, that she must defend against attempts to use her personal life to remove her from it, to "prov[e], as a creature of sentiment, that she never belonged there in the first place." In doing so, however successfully to herself and others, "she has zipped herself into a life as regimented and limited as a skintight pencil skirt (/wiki/Pencil_skirt) ." [140] (#cite_note-Washington_Post_antiheroines-145) Five years later, Harper's Bazaar (/wiki/Harper%27s_Bazaar) took a different perspective. Mekia Rivas faulted the film's portrayal of Miranda and Andy's relationship as reinforcing a false belief that since a young woman may only get one career break, she should take it no matter what she has to put up with from her boss. At the time of the film's release, " girlbosses (/wiki/Girlboss_(term)) " epitomized by Miranda had been seen as potentially revolutionizing the workplace, she noted. But the idea had since been discredited by real-life examples of women like Elizabeth Holmes (/wiki/Elizabeth_Holmes) and Steph Korey (/wiki/Away_(company)#Toxic_workplace_allegations) who ran companies where workers lived in fear of their bosses' tempers and whims. Rivas described Miranda as "a totally toxic superior who, in the end, was more interested in upholding the status quo than in reinventing it, despite having all the power and authority to do so. She wanted Andy to believe that saying no to her would be the end of her career, even though she knew Andy had all the potential in the world to make it without her or her connections." [141] (#cite_note-Harper's_Bazaar_piece-146) "Like many instant classics, Prada benefited from perfect timing", Variety 's 2016 article observed, attempting to explain the film's enduring appeal. "It marked the beginning of the democratization of the fashion industry—when the masses started to pay attention to the business of what they wore." It credited the movie with helping stir interest in Ugly Betty (/wiki/Ugly_Betty) , an American adaptation of the Colombian telenovela (/wiki/Telenovela) Yo soy Betty, la fea (/wiki/Yo_soy_Betty,_la_fea) , which debuted months after the film's release. [9] (#cite_note-2016_Variety_anniversary_story-9) The film also has been credited with increasing interest in R.J. Cutler (/wiki/R.J._Cutler) 's documentary (/wiki/Documentary) The September Issue (/wiki/The_September_Issue) , which followed Wintour (/wiki/Anna_Wintour) and other Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) editors as they prepared the issue for that month of 2007. [9] (#cite_note-2016_Variety_anniversary_story-9) Writing in The Ringer (/wiki/The_Ringer_(website)) on the tenth anniversary, Alison Herman observed that " The Devil Wears Prada transformed Wintour's image from that of a mere public figure into that of a cultural icon." Once known primarily as a fashion editor, she was now "every overlord you'd ever bitched about three drinks deep at happy hour (/wiki/Happy_hour) , only to dutifully fetch her coffee the next day." Ultimately, the film had effected a positive change in Wintour's image, Herman argued, "from a tyrant in chinchilla (/wiki/Chinchilla) to an idol for the post- Sandberg (/wiki/Sheryl_Sandberg) age". [18] (#cite_note-Ringer_2016_article-18) As the film turned 10, Variety 's 2016 article stated, '[The characterization] showed Hollywood that it was never wise to underestimate a strong woman's worth.' [142] (#cite_note-147) Antipathy to Nate [ edit ] Grenier (shown in 2007) has come to terms with the negative reaction his character has gotten Miranda has not been the only character in the film to provoke a negative reaction from viewers over time; Nate has been called the film's "real villain", [10] (#cite_note-2021_EW_story-10) described as "not just an insecure boyfriend, he is judgemental, toxic, and repulsive". [143] (#cite_note-Firstpost_piece-148) "He mocks her for her new interest in fashion, he trivializes the magazine she works at, and dismisses her hard work", Entertainment Weekly (/wiki/Entertainment_Weekly) wrote in 2017, collecting some tweets and other posts from social media critical of the character. Many, like the writer of that piece, found it particularly upsetting that he berated Andy for missing his birthday party even though she had a good work-related reason for her absence. [16] (#cite_note-EW_McKenna_story-16) McKenna defended the character. "[W]hat people focus on is that he's trying to restrict her ambition," she told EW . "But her ambition is going towards something that she doesn't really believe in, so he has a point." While she admitted he seemed "whiney" about his birthday, McKenna also pointed out that he tells Andy later that that really was not what he was upset about. She gave Grenier credit for what she admitted was a "thankless" role, saying he captured "that actual college boyfriend, that guy who's a drummer in a cool band, and plays intramural rugby, and plays guitar, and maybe took a ceramics class". [16] (#cite_note-EW_McKenna_story-16) On the film's 15th anniversary, Grenier weighed in. "When that whole thing ... first came out, I couldn't get my head around it." He ultimately came to realize that he had more in common with the character at the time and, like Nate, had not completely matured. "[Now], after taking time to reflect and much deliberation online, I can realize the truth in that perspective ... He couldn't support her like she needed because he was a fragile, wounded boy." [10] (#cite_note-2021_EW_story-10) Hathaway was more forgiving. I don't think everybody's being completely honest with themselves about their own poutiness. Nate was pouty on his birthday because his girlfriend wasn't there! In hindsight, I'm sure he wishes he made a different choice, but who doesn't? We've all been brats at different points. [10] (#cite_note-2021_EW_story-10) Themes [ edit ] Beauty standards [ edit ] University of Houston (/wiki/University_of_Houston) gender studies (/wiki/Gender_studies) professor Andrew Joseph Pegoda notes that the film never challenges the arbitrariness and unfairness of female beauty standards, rather presenting them as unchangeable and unchallengeable, even where the women in the film seem to chafe at them. He sees this in the beginning, with Tunstall's "Suddenly I See", its lyrics celebrating the ideal of a beautiful woman over images of Andy and the other women working for Runway getting dressed ("When have we ever seen a movie play a song where standards for male beauty are described?" he asks). Even Miranda is framed by the male gaze (/wiki/Male_gaze) when seen for the first time with only her legs visible. He reads the film as suggesting that Andy gets her job at the Sun at the end in part due to her improved attention to her appearance. [144] (#cite_note-Pegoda_blog-149) Sequel [ edit ] In 2013, Weisberger wrote a sequel, Revenge Wears Prada . However, it did not seem likely that a film version of it, or any sequel, would be made, as two of the film's stars were not eager to do so. Streep reportedly said that she is not interested in making a sequel for this film, and while Hathaway said she would be interested in working with the same people, it would have to be "something totally different". [9] (#cite_note-2016_Variety_anniversary_story-9) In July 2024, it was reported that Walt Disney Studios (/wiki/Walt_Disney_Studios_(division)) was entering early development on a sequel. Frankel was in talks to return as the director, while McKenna and Finerman were set to write the screenplay and produce again, respectively. [145] (#cite_note-150) Musical adaptation [ edit ] Main article: The Devil Wears Prada (musical) (/wiki/The_Devil_Wears_Prada_(musical)) In 2015, it was reported that Broadway (/wiki/Broadway_theatre) producer (/wiki/Theatrical_producer) Kevin McCollum (/wiki/Kevin_McCollum) had signed a deal two years earlier with Fox to develop some of the films from its back catalog into musicals (/wiki/Musical_theatre) for the stage. Two he expressed particular interest in were Mrs. Doubtfire (/wiki/Mrs._Doubtfire) (1993) and The Devil Wears Prada . Early in 2017, McCollum announced that in partnership with Fox Stage Productions, he was developing a musical version of The Devil Wears Prada (based on both the film and the book). Sir Elton John (/wiki/Elton_John) and Shaina Taub (/wiki/Shaina_Taub) will be writing the score and lyrics for the project with playwright Paul Rudnick (/wiki/Paul_Rudnick) , who had written some early scenes for the screenplay, [11] (#cite_note-Indiewire_anniversary_piece_1-11) writing the book (/wiki/Book_(musical_theatre)) and lyrics. McCollum did not say when he expected it to premiere but hoped it would eventually play on Broadway. [146] (#cite_note-NYTimes_musical_announcement-151) In July 2019, the show held its first industry-only presentation of the initial reading for the show. It featured Emily Skinner (/wiki/Emily_Skinner_(actress,_born_1970)) as Miranda, Krystina Alabado (/wiki/Krystina_Alabado) as Andy, Heléne Yorke (/wiki/Hel%C3%A9ne_Yorke) as Emily and Mario Cantone (/wiki/Mario_Cantone) as Nigel. [147] (#cite_note-152) There has been no announcement about future workshops or tryouts before the anticipated Broadway run. [148] (#cite_note-153) In late September a premiere run was announced for July and August 2020 at the James M. Nederlander Theatre (/wiki/Nederlander_Theatre_(Chicago)) in Chicago. According to producer Kevin McCollum (/wiki/Kevin_McCollum) , it was important to director Anna D. Shapiro (/wiki/Anna_D._Shapiro) , artistic director of the Steppenwolf Theater Company (/wiki/Steppenwolf_Theater_Company) , also located in Chicago, to have the show premiere there. Afterwards the show is expected to make its Broadway debut; where and when have not been announced. [149] (#cite_note-Chicago_Tribune_musical_story-154) See also [ edit ] Comedy portal (/wiki/Portal:Comedy) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Film portal (/wiki/Portal:Film) New York City portal (/wiki/Portal:New_York_City) France portal (/wiki/Portal:France) 2006 in film (/wiki/2006_in_film) Films with similar plot elements [ edit ] The Intern (/wiki/The_Intern_(2000_film)) , 2000 comedy about an overworked and mistreated low-level employee at a New York fashion magazine Swimming with Sharks (/wiki/Swimming_with_Sharks) , 1994 film starring Kevin Spacey (/wiki/Kevin_Spacey) as a tyrannical movie producer and Frank Whaley (/wiki/Frank_Whaley) as his beleaguered assistant Ugly Betty (/wiki/Ugly_Betty) is a TV show about an overworked assistant working for a fashion magazine Lists [ edit ] List of 2006 box office number-one films in Australia (/wiki/List_of_2006_box_office_number-one_films_in_Australia) List of 2006 box office number-one films in Japan (/wiki/List_of_2006_box_office_number-one_films_in_Japan) List of 2006 box office number-one films in South Korea (/wiki/List_of_2006_box_office_number-one_films_in_South_Korea) List of 2006 box office number-one films in the United Kingdom (/wiki/List_of_2006_box_office_number-one_films_in_the_United_Kingdom) List of American comedy films (/wiki/List_of_American_comedy_films) List of American films of 2006 (/wiki/List_of_American_films_of_2006) List of awards and nominations received by Anne Hathaway (/wiki/List_of_awards_and_nominations_received_by_Anne_Hathaway) List of awards and nominations received by Emily Blunt (/wiki/List_of_awards_and_nominations_received_by_Emily_Blunt) List of awards and nominations received by Meryl Streep (/wiki/List_of_awards_and_nominations_received_by_Meryl_Streep) List of comedy films of the 2000s (/wiki/List_of_comedy_films_of_the_2000s) List of fiction works made into feature films (D–J) (/wiki/List_of_fiction_works_made_into_feature_films_(D%E2%80%93J)) List of film director and composer collaborations (/wiki/List_of_film_director_and_composer_collaborations) List of films set in New York City (/wiki/List_of_films_set_in_New_York_City) List of films set in Paris (/wiki/List_of_films_set_in_Paris) Notes [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-20) In a paper comparing the film's plot to the Psyche myth (/wiki/Cupid_and_Psyche) , Janet Brennan Croft of the University of Oklahoma (/wiki/University_of_Oklahoma) says the speech "subverts the idea that fashion, the ultimate in feminine work, is trivial", a presupposition of Andy's it is Miranda's role to correct, as it is for Aphrodite (/wiki/Aphrodite) in the original myth and similar mother-mentor characters in other "heroine's journey" narratives: "Miranda's monologue on the color of Andy’s 'lumpy blue sweater and its place in a vast economic web (which she is quite frank about personally controlling) celebrates feminine power." [19] (#cite_note-Psyche_myth_paper-19) ^ (#cite_ref-54) Helen Mirren (/wiki/Helen_Mirren) 's hair has also been cited as an inspiration [15] (#cite_note-Vanity_Fair_McKenna_anniversary_piece-15) ^ (#cite_ref-93) To qualify that record slightly, Ice Age narrowly lost that opening weekend to Transformers: Revenge of the Fallen (/wiki/Transformers:_Revenge_of_the_Fallen) , which unlike Superman Returns had opened the previous week. [89] (#cite_note-boxofficemojo_2009_July_4_weekend-91) The following year, The Last Airbender (/wiki/The_Last_Airbender_(2010_film)) also exceeded The Devil Wears Prada 's July 4 opening weekend take without winning the weekend, as did The Purge: Election Year (/wiki/The_Purge:_Election_Year) in 2016, but neither film broke Ice Age 's record. [90] (#cite_note-boxofficemojo_Independence_Day_opening_weekends-92) ^ (#cite_ref-98) In 2008, Get Smart (/wiki/Get_Smart_(2008_film)) outdid Devil 's domestic box office but took in far less overseas. [94] (#cite_note-Get_Smart_box_office_mojo-97) ^ (#cite_ref-101) Later that year, the movie adaptation (/wiki/Into_the_Woods_(film)) of the Broadway musical Into the Woods (/wiki/Into_the_Woods) (also starring Streep) outdid Devil ' s domestic box office but took in far less overseas. [96] (#cite_note-Into_the_Woods_Box_Office_Mojo-100) References [ edit ] ^ a b c "The Devil Wears Prada" (https://www.boxofficemojo.com/movies/?id=devilwearsprada.htm) . Box Office Mojo (/wiki/Box_Office_Mojo) . Retrieved July 9, 2016 . ^ a b c d e f g h i j Thompson, Anne (/wiki/Anne_Thompson_(film_critic)) (July 1, 2016). " (https://www.indiewire.com/2016/07/devil-wears-prada-10-year-meryl-streep-oral-history-anne-hathaway-emily-blunt-1201701683/2/) 'The Devil Wears Prada' At 10: Meryl Streep and More on How Their Risky Project Became a Massive Hit" (https://www.indiewire.com/2016/07/devil-wears-prada-10-year-meryl-streep-oral-history-anne-hathaway-emily-blunt-1201701683/2/) . Indiewire (/wiki/Indiewire) . p. 2 . Retrieved July 7, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) " (https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-2006-may-31-et-festival31-story.html) 'Devil Wears Prada' will open L.A. Film Festival" (https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-2006-may-31-et-festival31-story.html) . Los Angeles Times . May 31, 2006. ^ (#cite_ref-IndieWire_2022_story_4-0) Bergeson, Samantha (May 3, 2022). "After Seeing 'Devil Wears Prada,' Anna Wintour Didn't Remember Former Assistant Who Wrote Novel" (https://www.indiewire.com/features/general/devil-wears-prada-anna-wintour-did-not-remember-assistant-1234721810/) . IndieWire (/wiki/IndieWire) . Retrieved March 15, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-E!_2022_story_5-0) "How Similar Is Anna Wintour to Miranda Priestly? The (https://www.eonline.com/photos/34414/how-similar-is-anna-wintour-to-miranda-priestly-the-anna-book-sheds-new-light) Anna Book Sheds New Light" (https://www.eonline.com/photos/34414/how-similar-is-anna-wintour-to-miranda-priestly-the-anna-book-sheds-new-light) . E! Online (/wiki/E!_Online) . May 3, 2022 . Retrieved March 15, 2024 . ^ a b Walters, Barbara (December 12, 2006). "The 10 Most Fascinating People of 2006" (https://abcnews.go.com/2020/story?id=2716887&page=3) . ABC News (/wiki/ABC_News_(United_States)) . Retrieved June 9, 2018 . ^ a b c d e f Thompson, Anne (July 1, 2016). " (https://www.indiewire.com/2016/07/devil-wears-prada-10-year-meryl-streep-oral-history-anne-hathaway-emily-blunt-1201701683/3/) 'The Devil Wears Prada' At 10: Meryl Streep and More on How Their Risky Project Became a Massive Hit" (https://www.indiewire.com/2016/07/devil-wears-prada-10-year-meryl-streep-oral-history-anne-hathaway-emily-blunt-1201701683/3/) . IndieWire (/wiki/IndieWire) . p. 3 . Retrieved June 9, 2018 . ^ a b c d e f g h i Grove, Martin A. (June 28, 2006). "Oscar-Worthy 'Devil Wears Prada' Most Enjoyable Film in Long Time" (https://web.archive.org/web/20060708134342/http://www.thebookstandard.com/bookstandard/news/hollywood/article_display.jsp?vnu_content_id=1002763479) . The Hollywood Reporter (/wiki/The_Hollywood_Reporter) . Archived from the original (http://www.thebookstandard.com/bookstandard/news/hollywood/article_display.jsp?vnu_content_id=1002763479) on July 8, 2006 . Retrieved July 13, 2016 . ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z aa ab Setoodeh, Ramin (June 23, 2016). " (https://variety.com/2016/film/features/the-devil-wears-prada-turns-10-meryl-streep-anne-hathaway-and-emily-blunt-tell-all-1201802311/#respond) 'The Devil Wears Prada' Turns 10: Meryl Streep, Anne Hathaway and Emily Blunt Tell All" (https://variety.com/2016/film/features/the-devil-wears-prada-turns-10-meryl-streep-anne-hathaway-and-emily-blunt-tell-all-1201802311/#respond) . Variety (/wiki/Variety_(magazine)) . Retrieved July 3, 2016 . ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z aa Nolfi, Joey (June 14, 2021). "The Devil Wears Prada oral history: Cast reunites to dish on making the best-dressed hit" (https://ew.com/movies/devil-wears-prada-cast-reunion/) . Entertainment Weekly (/wiki/Entertainment_Weekly) . Retrieved June 24, 2021 . ^ a b c d e f Thompson, Anne (July 1, 2016). " (https://www.indiewire.com/2016/07/devil-wears-prada-10-year-meryl-streep-oral-history-anne-hathaway-emily-blunt-1201701683/) 'The Devil Wears Prada' At 10: Meryl Streep and More on How Their Risky Project Became a Massive Hit" (https://www.indiewire.com/2016/07/devil-wears-prada-10-year-meryl-streep-oral-history-anne-hathaway-emily-blunt-1201701683/) . IndieWire (/wiki/IndieWire) . p. 1 . Retrieved June 9, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-NY_Press_interview_12-0) Merin, Jennifer (December 13, 2006). "Jennifer Merin interviews David Frankel re 'The Devil Wears Prada' (http://awfj.org/blog/2006/12/13/jennifer-merin-interviews-david-frankel-re-the-devil-wears-prada/) " (http://awfj.org/blog/2006/12/13/jennifer-merin-interviews-david-frankel-re-the-devil-wears-prada/) . New York Press (/wiki/New_York_Press) . Retrieved July 14, 2016 – via Alliance of Women Film Journalists (/wiki/Alliance_of_Women_Film_Journalists) . ^ (#cite_ref-McKenna_WGA_interview_13-0) Callaghan, Dylan (2006). "Clothes Encounters" (https://web.archive.org/web/20080527190713/http://www.wga.org/subpage.aspx?id=2064) . Writers Guild of America (/wiki/Writers_Guild_of_America) , West. Archived from the original (http://www.wga.org/subpage.aspx?id=2064) on May 27, 2008 . Retrieved July 13, 2016 . ^ a b Finerman, Wendy (2006). "Trip to the Big Screen" on The Devil Wears Prada (DVD). USA: 20th Century Fox (/wiki/20th_Century_Fox) . ^ a b c d e f g Miller, Julie (June 29, 2016). "How Meryl Streep Terrified The Devil Wears Prada's Screenwriter" (https://www.vanityfair.com/hollywood/2016/06/the-devil-wears-prada-meryl-streep) . Vanity Fair (/wiki/Vanity_Fair_(magazine)) . Retrieved July 7, 2016 . ^ a b c Schwarts, Dana (September 28, 2017). "The Devil Wears Prada screenwriter knows everyone hates Nate" (https://ew.com/movies/2017/09/28/the-devil-wears-prada-nate-aline-brosh-mckenna/) . Entertainment Weekly (/wiki/Entertainment_Weekly) . Retrieved October 6, 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-McKenna_BAFTA_lecture_17-0) McKenna, Aline Brosh (/wiki/Aline_Brosh_McKenna) (September 21, 2010). "Aline Brosh McKenna: Screenwriters" (https://web.archive.org/web/20130904021707/http://guru.bafta.org/aline-brosh-mckenna-screenwriters-lecture-video) . British Academy of Film and Television Arts (/wiki/British_Academy_of_Film_and_Television_Arts) . Archived from the original (http://guru.bafta.org/aline-brosh-mckenna-screenwriters-lecture-video) on September 4, 2013 . Retrieved July 6, 2016 . ^ a b c Herman, Alison (June 30, 2016). "Everybody Wants to Be Us" (https://theringer.com/the-rehabilitation-of-anna-wintour-2e7cce5a3c80#.b4voovokh) . The Ringer (/wiki/The_Ringer_(website)) . Retrieved July 9, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-Psyche_myth_paper_19-0) Croft, Janet Beecher (2012). "Psyche in New York: (https://shareok.org/bitstream/handle/11244/7985/Croft_Psyche_in_New_York.pdf?sequence=2) The Devil Wears Prada Updates the Myth" (https://shareok.org/bitstream/handle/11244/7985/Croft_Psyche_in_New_York.pdf?sequence=2) (PDF) . Mythlore (/wiki/Mythlore) . 30 (3/4): 55–69 . Retrieved May 16, 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-21) McKenna, Aline Brosh (/wiki/Aline_Brosh_McKenna) (December 2005). "The Devil Wears Prada – Second Blue in Progress – 12/00/05" (https://johnaugust.com/Assets/DEVIL_WEARS_PRADA_Full_Script.pdf) (PDF) . pp. 45–46 . Retrieved April 20, 2021 . ^ a b Krupnick, Ellie (January 24, 2014). "What That Famous 'Devil Wears Prada' Scene Actually Gets Wrong" (https://www.huffpost.com/entry/devil-wears-prada-scene-famous_n_4659819) . HuffPost (/wiki/HuffPost) . Retrieved November 27, 2021 . ^ a b Wang, Connie (September 5, 2017). "Stop Quoting The Cerulean Speech Because It's Not Even Right" (https://www.refinery29.com/en-us/2017/09/168568/fashion-trend-popularity-shopping-habits) . Refinery 29 (/wiki/Refinery_29) . Retrieved June 7, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-NZ_Herald_24-0) Viva (June 20, 2020). "Why This Scene From 'The Devil Wears Prada' Is Significant" (https://www.nzherald.co.nz/viva/fashion/why-this-scene-from-the-devil-wears-prada-is-significant/VGNKQXCXDPTXPFET2BMJGPHZZI/) . The New Zealand Herald (/wiki/The_New_Zealand_Herald) . Retrieved February 7, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-25) Friedman, Vanessa (June 30, 2018). "Why We Cover High Fashion" (https://www.nytimes.com/2018/06/30/insider/covering-high-fashion-haute-couture.html) . The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . Retrieved September 24, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-26) Ferrier, Morwenna (August 14, 2018). "Why is everyone still talking about this cerulean blue jumper?" (https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2018/aug/14/colour-fashion-influence-science) . The Guardian (/wiki/The_Guardian) . Retrieved September 24, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-27) Davis, Jael (July 5, 2021). " (https://studybreaks.com/tvfilm/the-devil-wears-prada-and-the-fashion-industrys-trickle-down-effects/) 'The Devil Wears Prada,' the Fashion Industry's Trickle-Down Effect, and the Infamous Blue Sweater Scene" (https://studybreaks.com/tvfilm/the-devil-wears-prada-and-the-fashion-industrys-trickle-down-effects/) . Study Breaks . Retrieved January 11, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-28) Lubitz, Rachel (June 30, 2016). "How, In One Monologue, 'The Devil Wears Prada' Nailed the Cultural Appropriation Issue" (https://www.mic.com/articles/147179/how-in-one-monologue-the-devil-wears-prada-nailed-the-cultural-appropriation-issue) . Mic (/wiki/Mic_(media_company)) . Retrieved September 24, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-29) Goffe, Nadira (December 13, 2022). "Why We Have It So Bad for Deadpan Women Who Possibly Hate Us" (https://slate.com/culture/2022/12/white-lotus-aubrey-plaza-wednesday-daria-netflix.html) . Slate (/wiki/Slate_(website)) . Retrieved December 16, 2022 . ^ a b c Zuckerman, Esther (June 13, 2019). "How Aline Brosh McKenna Wrote One of the Best Lines of the 21st Century for 'The Devil Wears Prada' (https://www.thrillist.com/entertainment/nation/the-devil-wears-prada-aline-brosh-mckenna-florals-for-spring) " (https://www.thrillist.com/entertainment/nation/the-devil-wears-prada-aline-brosh-mckenna-florals-for-spring) . Thrillist (/wiki/Thrillist) . Retrieved June 8, 2024 . ^ a b Ziss, Sophy (April 14, 2023). "Florals For Spring That Are Groundbreaking, Thank You Very Much" (https://www.eonline.com/news/1371381/florals-for-spring-that-are-groundbreaking-thank-you-very-much) . E! (/wiki/E!) . Retrieved June 8, 2024 . ^ a b Hall, Amalissa (May 19, 2023). "Florals? For spring? It can be groundbreaking when done right—here's how to wear this motif in 2023" (https://www.tatlerasia.com/style/fashion/florals-for-spring-in-2023) . Tatler (/wiki/Tatler) . Retrieved June 8, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-33) Sharf, Zack (December 8, 2023). "Meryl Streep's 'Devil Wears Prada' Casting Got Pushback, Producer Was Told: 'Are You Out of Your Mind? She's Never Been Funny a Day in Her Life' (https://variety.com/2023/film/news/meryl-streep-lost-devil-wears-prada-role-1235829642/) " (https://variety.com/2023/film/news/meryl-streep-lost-devil-wears-prada-role-1235829642/) . Variety . Retrieved December 11, 2023 . ^ a b Young, Sage (June 30, 2016). "What Meryl Streep Was Like On 'The Devil Wears Prada' Set, According To Author Lauren Weisberger" (http://www.bustle.com/articles/169842-what-meryl-streep-was-like-on-the-devil-wears-prada-set-according-to-author-lauren-weisberger) . Bustle (/wiki/Bustle_(magazine)) . Retrieved July 7, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-2016_Vanity_Fair_piece_35-0) Miller, Julie (July 1, 2016). "Meryl Streep's Reason for Doing (https://www.vanityfair.com/hollywood/2016/07/meryl-streep-anna-wintour-devil-wears-prada) Devil Wears Prada Was More Badass Than You Thought" (https://www.vanityfair.com/hollywood/2016/07/meryl-streep-anna-wintour-devil-wears-prada) . Vanity Fair (/wiki/Vanity_Fair_(magazine)) . Retrieved March 15, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-Ledger07_36-0) Whitty, Stephen; July 29, 2007; "Growing up in public"; The Star-Ledger (/wiki/The_Star-Ledger) , Section 4, page 2. "I wanted to illustrate how dangerous it was to not make your own choices ... I had been doing that for far too long" ^ a b Davies, Hugh (September 9, 2006). "Meryl Streep plays the Devil her own way" (https://web.archive.org/web/20071107135229/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/main.jhtml?xml=%2Fnews%2F2006%2F09%2F08%2Fwvenice08.xml) . The Telegraph (/wiki/The_Daily_Telegraph) . 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"Hollywood connection makes for best sellers" (http://usatoday30.usatoday.com/life/books/news/2007-01-10-book-trends_x.htm) . USA Today (/wiki/USA_Today) . Retrieved July 13, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-Books_Most_Borrowed_127-0) "The Books Most Borrowed in U.S. Libraries". Library Journal (/wiki/Library_Journal) . 132 (1): 176. January 1, 2007. ^ (#cite_ref-Audiobook_sales_128-0) Maughan, S. (October 2, 2006). "Audio bestsellers/Fiction". Publishers Weekly (/wiki/Publishers_Weekly) . p. 19. , cited at Spiker. ^ (#cite_ref-DVD_review_129-0) "DVD Review: The Devil Wears Prada" (https://web.archive.org/web/20070212143553/http://www.currentfilm.com/dvdreviews8/devilwearspradadvd.html) . Current Film . Archived from the original (http://www.currentfilm.com/dvdreviews8/devilwearspradadvd.html) on February 12, 2007 . Retrieved June 10, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-blooper_reel_130-0) Blooper reel. (2006). The Devil Wears Prada [DVD]. USA: 20th Century Fox. ^ (#cite_ref-Sommmer_Fun_131-0) Sommer, Rich (January 3, 2007). "Fun" (https://web.archive.org/web/20080118071708/http://richsommer.vox.com/library/post/fun.html) . Vox (/wiki/Vox_(website)) . Archived from the original (http://richsommer.vox.com/library/post/fun.html) on January 18, 2008 . Retrieved June 10, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-Blu-Ray_review_132-0) Bracke, Peter (December 11, 2006). "The Devil Wears Prada Blu-ray Review" (https://bluray.highdefdigest.com/475/devilwearsprada.html) . Highdef Digest . Retrieved June 10, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-boxofficemojo_DVD_rentals_133-0) "The Devil Wears Prada (2006) – DVD/Home Video rentals" (https://www.boxofficemojo.com/movies/?page=homevideo&id=devilwearsprada.htm) . Box Office Mojo (/wiki/Box_Office_Mojo) . Retrieved July 13, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-DVD_sales_134-0) "The Devil Wears Prada: Weekly US DVD Sales" (https://www.the-numbers.com/movie/Devil-Wears-Prada-The#tab=video-sales) . The Numbers (/wiki/The_Numbers_(website)) . Retrieved July 13, 2016 . ^ a b Weiner, Zoe (August 30, 2017). "This 'Devil Wears Prada' Deleted Scene Tells a Completely Different Story" (https://www.glamour.com/story/devil-wears-prada-deleted-scene) . Glamour (/wiki/Glamour_(magazine)) . Retrieved October 7, 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-VF_Independence_Day_weekends_136-0) Bradley, Laura (July 1, 2016). "Independence Day Weekend Is for Blockbusters, Except When It Isn't" (https://www.vanityfair.com/hollywood/2016/07/july-4-weekend-box-office-flops-and-surprises) . Vanity Fair (/wiki/Vanity_Fair_(magazine)) . Retrieved July 12, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-137) "The Kardashian Sisters Take a Break From Fertility Concerns by Playing Dress-Up" (https://www.thecut.com/2018/02/keeping-up-with-the-kardashians-season-14-episode-18-recap.html) . Thecut.com (/wiki/New_York_(magazine)) . February 26, 2018. ^ (#cite_ref-138) "Too Many Miranda Priestlys!KUWTK" (https://ghostarchive.org/varchive/youtube/20211030/7nqIuUFCA28) . YouTube (/wiki/YouTube) . September 4, 2018. Archived from the original (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7nqIuUFCA28&list=PLX_Icid-tSv9EADw-3QGA_1-ZklKvwkC4&index=4) on October 30, 2021. ^ (#cite_ref-Toronto_Star_Klobuchar_column_139-0) Timson, Judith (February 25, 2019). "Maybe Amy Klobuchar needs to treat staffers better, but she can handle it" (https://www.thestar.com/life/opinion/2019/02/25/maybe-amy-klobuchar-needs-to-treat-staffers-better-but-she-can-handle-it.html) . Toronto Star (/wiki/Toronto_Star) . Retrieved October 11, 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-HuffPo_Klobuchar_story_140-0) Torres, Monica (February 15, 2019). "How to Tell When Your 'Tough Boss' Is Really A Toxic Boss" (https://www.huffpost.com/entry/tough-boss-trope_l_5c644fb3e4b08da0ec815084) . HuffPost (/wiki/HuffPost) . Retrieved October 11, 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-NYT_on_personal_assistants_141-0) Rozhon, Tracie (March 18, 2008). "Upstairs, Downstairs and Above the Garage" (https://www.nytimes.com/2008/03/18/business/businessspecial3/18SERVICE.html?_r=0) . The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . Retrieved July 6, 2016 . The term 'personal assistant' has been degraded over the years and is now almost synonymous with the overworked, underpaid heroine of the movie and book The Devil Wears Prada. ^ (#cite_ref-Dissent_article_142-0) Mari, Francesca (Spring 2015). "The Assistant Economy" (https://www.dissentmagazine.org/article/the-assistant-economy) . Dissent (/wiki/Dissent_(American_magazine)) . Retrieved July 13, 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-NYT_DWP_economy_story_143-0) Scheiber, Noam (May 30, 2016). "President Obama's Overtime Pay Plan Threatens the 'Prada' Economy" (https://www.nytimes.com/2016/05/31/business/for-harried-assistants-overtime-rule-may-have-its-downside.html?emc=edit_th_20160531&nl=todaysheadlines&nlid=70003082&_r=0) . The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . Retrieved July 13, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-Salon_DWP_economy_article_144-0) Timberg, Scott (May 31, 2016). "Good riddance to the 'Devil Wears Prada' economy: It's not just exploitative, it's a diversity killer" (http://www.salon.com/2016/05/31/good_riddance_to_the_devil_wears_prada_economy_its_not_just_exploitative_its_a_diversity_killer/) . Salon (/wiki/Salon_(website)) . Retrieved July 13, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-Washington_Post_antiheroines_145-0) Rosenberg, Alyssa (June 30, 2016). "How 'The Devil Wears Prada' foreshadowed an age of antiheroines" (https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/act-four/wp/2016/06/30/how-the-devil-wears-prada-foreshadowed-an-age-of-antiheroines/) . The Washington Post (/wiki/The_Washington_Post) . Retrieved July 7, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-Harper's_Bazaar_piece_146-0) Rivas, Mekita (July 1, 2021). " (https://www.harpersbazaar.com/culture/art-books-music/a36893136/the-devil-wears-prada-anniversary-big-break-myth/) The Devil Wears Prada and the Myth of the One and Only 'Big Break' (https://www.harpersbazaar.com/culture/art-books-music/a36893136/the-devil-wears-prada-anniversary-big-break-myth/) " (https://www.harpersbazaar.com/culture/art-books-music/a36893136/the-devil-wears-prada-anniversary-big-break-myth/) . Harper's Bazaar (/wiki/Harper%27s_Bazaar) . Retrieved July 14, 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-147) " (https://variety.com/2016/film/features/the-devil-wears-prada-turns-10-meryl-streep-anne-hathaway-and-emily-blunt-tell-all-1201802311/#respond) 'The Devil Wears Prada' Turns 10: Meryl Streep, Anne Hathaway and Emily Blunt Tell All" (https://variety.com/2016/film/features/the-devil-wears-prada-turns-10-meryl-streep-anne-hathaway-and-emily-blunt-tell-all-1201802311/#respond) . Variety (/wiki/Variety_(magazine)) . June 23, 2016. ^ (#cite_ref-Firstpost_piece_148-0) "The Devil Wears Prada may be a pop-culture landmark, but it fails to be a feminist narrative" (https://www.firstpost.com/entertainment/the-devil-wears-prada-may-be-a-pop-culture-landmark-but-it-fails-to-be-a-feminist-narrative-8896321.html) . Firstpost (/wiki/Firstpost) . October 14, 2020 . Retrieved October 10, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-Pegoda_blog_149-0) Pegoda, Andrew Joseph (July 31, 2013). "Women, Societal Expectations of Beauty, and "The Devil Wears Prada" (2006)" (https://andrewpegoda.com/2013/07/31/women-societal-expectations-of-beauty-and-the-devil-wears-prada-2006/) . Andrew Pegoda . Retrieved October 14, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-150) Grobar, Matt (July 8, 2024). " (https://deadline.com/2024/07/the-devil-wears-prada-sequel-aline-brosh-mckenna-disney-1236004034/) 'The Devil Wears Prada' Sequel Scripted By Aline Brosh McKenna In Early Development At Disney" (https://deadline.com/2024/07/the-devil-wears-prada-sequel-aline-brosh-mckenna-disney-1236004034/) . Deadline Hollywood (/wiki/Deadline_Hollywood) . Retrieved July 8, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-NYTimes_musical_announcement_151-0) Paulson, Michael (January 26, 2017). " (https://www.nytimes.com/2017/01/26/theater/the-devil-wears-prada-aims-for-broadway-as-musical.html?_r=0) 'The Devil Wears Prada' Is Aiming for Broadway, as a Musical" (https://www.nytimes.com/2017/01/26/theater/the-devil-wears-prada-aims-for-broadway-as-musical.html?_r=0) . The New York Times (/wiki/The_New_York_Times) . Retrieved January 27, 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-152) MacPhee, Ryan (July 2, 2019). "Emily Skinner and Krystina Alabado Starring in The Devil Wears Prada Musical Reading" (http://www.playbill.com/article/emily-skinner-and-krystina-alabado-starring-in-the-devil-wears-prada-musical-reading) . Playbill (/wiki/Playbill) . Retrieved October 6, 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-153) Marine, Brooke (July 2, 2019). " (https://www.wmagazine.com/story/devil-wears-prada-musical-reading) The Devil Wears Prada Musical Casts Its First Reading" (https://www.wmagazine.com/story/devil-wears-prada-musical-reading) . W (/wiki/W_(magazine)) . Retrieved October 6, 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-Chicago_Tribune_musical_story_154-0) Jones, Chris (September 17, 2019). " (https://www.chicagotribune.com/entertainment/theater/chris-jones/ct-ent-devil-wears-prada-elton-john-chicago-0917-20190917-w4ry4oqd6vbnrgvvmglch2lo6u-story.html) 'The Devil Wears Prada' musical will premiere in Chicago, with a score by Elton John" (https://www.chicagotribune.com/entertainment/theater/chris-jones/ct-ent-devil-wears-prada-elton-john-chicago-0917-20190917-w4ry4oqd6vbnrgvvmglch2lo6u-story.html) . Chicago Tribune (/wiki/Chicago_Tribune) . Retrieved October 6, 2019 . Book [ edit ] Weisberger, Laura (/wiki/Lauren_Weisberger) (2003). The Devil Wears Prada (/wiki/The_Devil_Wears_Prada_(novel)) . New York: Broadway Books. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-7679-1476-7 . External links [ edit ] Wikiquote has quotations related to The Devil Wears Prada (https://en.wikiquote.org/wiki/The_Devil_Wears_Prada) . Wikimedia Commons has media related to The Devil wears Prada (film) (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:The_Devil_wears_Prada_(film)) . 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American fashion label This section needs expansion . You can help by adding to it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Badgley_Mischka&action=edit&section=) . ( March 2020 ) Badgley Mischka Company type Private Industry Fashion industry (/wiki/Fashion_industry) , textiles (/wiki/Textiles) Founded 1988 (36 years ago) ( 1988 ) in Beverly Hills, California (/wiki/Beverly_Hills,_California) , US Founders Mark Badgley James Mischka Number of locations 1 store (2018) Parent (/wiki/Parent_company) Titan Industries Website www (http://www.badgleymischka.com/) .badgleymischka (http://www.badgleymischka.com/) .com (http://www.badgleymischka.com/) Badgley Mischka ( / (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) ˌ b æ dʒ l i ˈ m ɪ ʃ k ə / (/wiki/Help:IPA/English) BAJ -lee MISH -kə ) is an American fashion label designed by Mark Badgley (born January 12, 1961, in East St. Louis (/wiki/East_St._Louis) , IL) and James Mischka (born December 23, 1960, in Burlington (/wiki/Burlington,_Wisconsin) , WI). [1] (#cite_note-1) Their collections are said to be largely influenced by the style of the glamour of 1940s Hollywood (/wiki/Hollywood_(film_industry)) while remaining simple and streamlined. [2] (#cite_note-2) History [ edit ] A Badgley Mischka fur coat on display in the window of Bergdorf Goodman (/wiki/Bergdorf_Goodman) 's Fifth Avenue (/wiki/Fifth_Avenue_(Manhattan)) store. James Mischka began at Rice University (/wiki/Rice_University) as a biomedical engineering major and ultimately graduated with degrees in art history and managerial studies in 1985. Badgley and Mischka met at Parsons School of Design (/wiki/Parsons_School_of_Design) in Manhattan (/wiki/Manhattan) . The two launched the label Badgley Mischka in 1988, though their bridal business launched in 1996. [3] (#cite_note-3) In 1992, Badgley Mischka was acquired by Escada (/wiki/Escada) . [4] (#cite_note-4) In 2004, Escada sold Badgley Mischka to Candie's (/wiki/Candie%27s) (later renamed Iconix Brand Group (/wiki/Iconix_Brand_Group) ). [5] (#cite_note-5) In September 2006, Badgley Mischka announced that Sharon Stone (/wiki/Sharon_Stone) would replace Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen (/wiki/Mary-Kate_and_Ashley_Olsen) as the brand's spokesperson. [6] (#cite_note-6) In 2017, Iconix sold Badgley Mischka to Mark Badgley, James Mischka, and Titan Industries. [7] (#cite_note-7) Gallery [ edit ] See also [ edit ] Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) List of fashion designers (/wiki/List_of_fashion_designers) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Carreon, Blue. "Red Carpet Maestros Badgley And Mischka On True Glamour" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/bluecarreon/2015/10/28/red-carpet-maestros-badgley-mischka-on-true-glamour/) . Forbes (/wiki/Forbes) . Retrieved 30 January 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "About Mark and James | Badgley Mishcka" (https://www.badgleymischka.com/about-mark-and-james) . www.badgleymischka.com . Retrieved 2021-12-11 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "Ready to Wear Report: Market Basket". Women's Wear Daily . August 6, 1996. ^ (#cite_ref-4) cityfile. "James Mischka" (http://gawker.com/550053/james-mischka) . Retrieved 30 January 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) Staff, WWD (1 November 2004). "If the Shoe Fits, Wear It: Candie's in Surprise Deal To Buy Badgley Mischka" (http://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/if-the-shoe-fits-wear-it-candie-8217-s-in-surprise-deal-to-buy-badgley-mischka-707387/) . Retrieved 30 January 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Dresses by Badgley mischka" (https://web.archive.org/web/20150330025920/http://www.fashionzstyle.com/latest-uk-and-usa-dresses-by-badgley-mischka-pre-fall-2015/) . Archived from the original (http://www.fashionzstyle.com/latest-uk-and-usa-dresses-by-badgley-mischka-pre-fall-2015/) on 2015-03-30 . Retrieved 2014-12-21 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) Henning, Kristen (2 March 2016). "Badgley Mischka And Titan Industries Buy Trademark Rights From Iconix" (http://footwearnews.com/2016/business/mergers-acquisitions/badgley-mischka-titan-industries-buy-trademark-rights-iconix-198799/) . Retrieved 30 January 2018 . External links [ edit ] Media related to Badgley Mischka (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Badgley_Mischka) at Wikimedia Commons Official website (http://www.badgleymischka.com/) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐6f54559974‐kcpmq Cached time: 20240719053427 Cache expiry: 1103135 Reduced expiry: true Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.327 seconds Real time usage: 0.459 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 1876/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 25091/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 1659/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 15/100 Expensive parser function count: 3/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 34549/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.199/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 5992424/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 431.244 1 -total 25.94% 111.849 1 Template:Reflist 25.68% 110.759 1 Template:Infobox_company 23.42% 100.996 1 Template:Infobox 21.84% 94.169 6 Template:Cite_web 16.96% 73.150 1 Template:Short_description 13.52% 58.310 1 Template:Expand_section 12.23% 52.720 1 Template:Ambox 9.19% 39.635 2 Template:Pagetype 4.97% 21.446 7 Template:Main_other Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:4607535-0!canonical and timestamp 20240719053427 and revision id 1234517692. 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American fashion designer and entrepreneur Eileen Fisher (June 6, 1951) is an American fashion designer and entrepreneur. She is the founder of the women's clothing brand Eileen Fisher Inc. [1] (#cite_note-1) Biography [ edit ] Fisher grew up in Des Plaines, Illinois (/wiki/Des_Plaines,_Illinois) , the second of the seven children. When Fisher decided to go to college (/wiki/Higher_education_in_the_United_States) , her father explained that the family could not contribute to her tuition because they needed to save their money to send her younger brother to college as "he would need an education to support his family some day." Fisher explained in an interview to Inc. in 2013: "It didn't upset me — it was the times. I never expected a penny from my parents. I paid all my tuition fees from University of Illinois (/wiki/University_of_Illinois_at_Urbana-Champaign) by working as a waitress." [2] (#cite_note-inc-magazine-2) She started as a math major before switching to interior design (/wiki/Interior_design) , [2] (#cite_note-inc-magazine-2) graduating in 1972. [3] (#cite_note-3) Fisher then moved to New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) in 1973. [4] (#cite_note-fortune2011-4) [5] (#cite_note-bloom-5) She worked as an interior designer and as a graphic artist before establishing her own fashion (/wiki/Fashion) business. She has two children, Zackary and Sasha, with her ex-husband David Zweibel, and lives in Irvington (/wiki/Irvington,_New_York) , New York (/wiki/New_York_(state)) . [6] (#cite_note-newyorker-6) Company [ edit ] Eileen Fisher Company type Privately held company (/wiki/Privately_held_company) Industry Retail (/wiki/Retail) Genre Fashion Founded 1984 ; 40 years ago ( 1984 ) Founder Eileen Fisher Headquarters Irvington (/wiki/Irvington,_New_York) , New York (/wiki/New_York_(state)) , United States (/wiki/United_States) Number of locations 56+ Products Clothing Number of employees 800+ Website eileenfisher.com (http://eileenfisher.com) Eileen Fisher Inc. is an American privately held company (/wiki/Privately_held_company) founded by Fisher in 1984 with $ (/wiki/United_States_dollar) 350 in startup money. [7] (#cite_note-cnn_money-7) Her first order at a New York clothing design show was for $3,000, which was followed three months later with $40,000 in additional sales. [7] (#cite_note-cnn_money-7) She opened her first retail store (/wiki/Retail) in 1986, on East 9th Street in Manhattan (/wiki/Manhattan) . In 2002, the company earned $144 million in revenue (/wiki/Revenue) , and $154 million in 2003. [7] (#cite_note-cnn_money-7) [8] (#cite_note-fortune2003-8) Estimated revenue in 2015 grew to over $300 million. [9] (#cite_note-HuffPost2015-9) As of 2003, 35 percent of the company's clothing was manufactured in the United States (/wiki/United_States) while the rest was made in China (/wiki/China) in compliance with Social Accountability International (/wiki/Social_Accountability_International) 's SA8000 (/wiki/SA8000) . [8] (#cite_note-fortune2003-8) The company has over 1200 employees with over 56 retail stores in fifteen states. [ citation needed ] In 2011, the company expanded outside the U.S., opening its first Canadian store in Vancouver (/wiki/Vancouver) , British Columbia (/wiki/British_Columbia) and then more stores in London (/wiki/London) , England (/wiki/England) , in October 2012. [ citation needed ] Since its formation, the company has extended its distribution to over 1,000 wholesale doors and 68 retail stores. [10] (#cite_note-10) In order to reduce fabric (/wiki/Fabric) and fiber waste, the company started a recycling program. Customers donate their "gently used" Eileen Fisher clothing in return for a $5 gift certificate per article. After dry cleaning (/wiki/Dry_cleaning) , the garments are resold—with the income funding business grants for women and leadership programs for young women. [11] (#cite_note-11) [12] (#cite_note-12) See also [ edit ] Biography portal (/wiki/Portal:Biography) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) List of fashion designers (/wiki/List_of_fashion_designers) List of people from New York City (/wiki/List_of_people_from_New_York_City) List of University of Illinois at Urbana–Champaign people (/wiki/List_of_University_of_Illinois_at_Urbana%E2%80%93Champaign_people) List of New York companies (/wiki/List_of_New_York_companies) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Paton, Elizabeth (August 13, 2022). "The Queen of Slow Fashion on the Art of a Slow Exit" (https://www.nytimes.com/2022/08/13/fashion/eileen-fisher-retirement.html) . The New York Times . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0362-4331 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0362-4331) . Retrieved July 14, 2023 . ^ Jump up to: a b Welch, Liz (November 1, 2010). "How I Did It" (http://www.inc.com/magazine/20101101/how-i-did-it-eileen-fisher.html) . Inc . ^ (#cite_ref-3) bloomberg.com Executive Profile: Eileen Fisher (https://www.bloomberg.com/research/stocks/private/person.asp?personId=6425301&privcapId=4271079) ^ (#cite_ref-fortune2011_4-0) Shambora, Jessica (September 18, 2011). "Eileen Fisher's Timeless Vision" (https://money.cnn.com/2011/09/15/smallbusiness/eileen_fisher.fortune/index.htm) . Fortune (/wiki/Fortune_(magazine)) . Retrieved December 14, 2011 . ^ (#cite_ref-bloom_5-0) Bloom, Amy (December 2003). "Women of the Year 2003: Eileen Fisher" (https://web.archive.org/web/20160605151921/http://www.msmagazine.com/dec03/woty2003_fisher.asp) . Ms (/wiki/Ms._(magazine)) . Archived from the original (http://www.msmagazine.com/dec03/woty2003_fisher.asp) on June 5, 2016 . Retrieved February 16, 2009 . ^ (#cite_ref-newyorker_6-0) Malcolm, Janet (September 23, 2013). "Nobody's Looking at You" (http://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2013/09/23/nobodys-looking-at-you) . The New Yorker (/wiki/The_New_Yorker) . New York City (/wiki/New_York_City) : Condé Nast (/wiki/Cond%C3%A9_Nast) . Retrieved January 13, 2016 . ^ Jump up to: a b c Caplin, Joan (July 1, 2004). "Eileen Fisher First, Suit Yourself" (https://web.archive.org/web/20110606020354/https://money.cnn.com/magazines/moneymag/moneymag_archive/2004/07/01/372740/index.htm) . CNNMoney.com (/wiki/CNNMoney.com) . Archived from the original (https://money.cnn.com/magazines/moneymag/moneymag_archive/2004/07/01/372740/index.htm) on June 6, 2011 . Retrieved August 7, 2008 . ^ Jump up to: a b Pofeldt, Elaine (October 1, 2003). "The Nurturer Eileen Fisher/Eileen Fisher Inc" (https://money.cnn.com/magazines/fsb/fsb_archive/2003/10/01/353434/) . Fortune (/wiki/Fortune_(magazine)) . Retrieved August 7, 2008 . ^ (#cite_ref-HuffPost2015_9-0) Tenney, Matt (May 15, 2015). "Be a 'Don't Knower': One of Eileen Fisher's Secrets to Success" (http://www.huffingtonpost.com/matt-tenney/be-a-dont-knower-one-of-e_b_7242468.html) . HuffPost Business . Retrieved January 22, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) Fernandez, Chantal (December 6, 2017). "Eileen Fisher Makes Strides Towards Circularity With 'Tiny Factory' (https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/eileen-fisher-makes-strides-towards-circularity-with-tiny-factory) " (https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/eileen-fisher-makes-strides-towards-circularity-with-tiny-factory) . The Business of Fashion . Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20171206170700/https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/eileen-fisher-makes-strides-towards-circularity-with-tiny-factory) from the original on December 6, 2017 . Retrieved January 30, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) eileenfisher.com Sustainability (http://www.eileenfisher.com/EileenFisherCompany/CompanyGeneralContentPages/SocialConciousness/Sustainability.jsp) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20140130082433/http://www.eileenfisher.com/EileenFisherCompany/CompanyGeneralContentPages/SocialConciousness/Sustainability.jsp) January 30, 2014, at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ^ (#cite_ref-12) eileenfisher.com Supporting_Women (http://www.eileenfisher.com/EileenFisherCompany/CompanyGeneralContentPages/SocialConciousness/Supporting_Women.jsp) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20140306182800/http://www.eileenfisher.com/EileenFisherCompany/CompanyGeneralContentPages/SocialConciousness/Supporting_Women.jsp) March 6, 2014, at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) External links [ edit ] Official website (http://www.eileenfisher.com) Eileen Fisher (https://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/designers/eileen-fisher/) at FMD (/wiki/Fashion_Model_Directory) (profile on the person) How I Build This - Eileen Fisher: Eileen Fisher (https://www.npr.org/2019/02/22/697104124/eileen-fisher-eileen-fisher) (audio interview) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐58c7647fd9‐72zzz Cached time: 20240713175038 Cache expiry: 1577364 Reduced expiry: true Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1, show‐toc] CPU time usage: 0.373 seconds Real time usage: 0.529 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 2396/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 34296/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 3159/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 15/100 Expensive parser function count: 5/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 39635/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.218/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 6356302/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 493.596 1 -total 31.26% 154.321 1 Template:Reflist 20.77% 102.506 5 Template:Cite_news 19.75% 97.480 1 Template:Infobox_company 17.57% 86.732 1 Template:Infobox 15.42% 76.120 1 Template:Short_description 9.41% 46.434 2 Template:Citation_needed 9.00% 44.407 2 Template:Pagetype 8.42% 41.556 2 Template:Fix 8.20% 40.497 1 Template:Fashiondesigner Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:4621867-0!canonical and timestamp 20240713175038 and revision id 1229729337. 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Australian clothing company Pacific Brands Underwear Group Company type Subsidiary (/wiki/Subsidiary_company) Industry Clothing (/wiki/Clothing) Founded Sydney (/wiki/Sydney) (1915 ; 109 years ago ( 1915 ) ) Founder George Alan Bond Headquarters 115 Cotham Rd, Kew (/wiki/Kew,_Victoria) , Melbourne (/wiki/Melbourne) , Australia (/wiki/Australia) Products Underwear (/wiki/Underwear) Sleepwear (/wiki/Sleepwear) Light casual apparel Parent (/wiki/Parent_company) Hanesbrands (/wiki/Hanesbrands) Website www.bonds.com.au (http://www.bonds.com.au/) Pacific Brands Underwear Group , known under its core brand Bonds , was an Australian manufacturer and is now a subsidiary of Hanesbrands (/wiki/Hanesbrands) . It is an importer of men's, women's and children's underwear and clothing. The head office is located at 115 Cotham Rd in Kew (/wiki/Kew,_Victoria) , Melbourne (/wiki/Melbourne) . They sell a range of clothing including underwear and sleepwear. History [ edit ] A Bonds Outlet store, 2022 George A. Bond & Co. Limited was established in 1915 by George Allan Bond, [1] (#cite_note-1) an American who came to Australia in the early twentieth century. He started importing women's hosiery and gloves. In 1917 he began manufacturing hosiery in Redfern, Sydney (/wiki/Redfern,_New_South_Wales) . In 1918 he moved to Camperdown (/wiki/Camperdown,_New_South_Wales) and began also making underwear. [2] (#cite_note-BondsUKHist-2) In 1923 Bond's company established a cotton-spinning mill (/wiki/Cotton_mill) at Wentworthville (/wiki/Wentworthville,_New_South_Wales) in western Sydney (/wiki/Sydney) , with imported machinery costing 150 thousand pounds. [3] (#cite_note-3) The mill commenced operations in October 1923. [4] (#cite_note-4) This particular section of Wentworthville was soon renamed Pendle Hill (/wiki/Pendle_Hill,_New_South_Wales) in honour of his Scottish family origins. To facilitate easy access to Bond's Spinning Mills for employees, a railway station and eventually a whole new suburb were created. [2] (#cite_note-BondsUKHist-2) The company went into liquidation in December 1927 and a public company, Bonds Industries Limited, was established. In 1970 the company merged with Coats Paton Pty Ltd (/wiki/Coats_plc) . In 1987 the company was taken over by Pacific Dunlop (/wiki/Ansell) , and it was then sold in 2001 to form a separate entity, Pacific Brands (/wiki/Pacific_Brands) Holdings Pty Ltd. At that time also the spinning mill was closed. In 2004 Pacific Brands Limited was listed as a public company on the Australian Stock Exchange (/wiki/Australian_Stock_Exchange) (ASX) and the New Zealand Exchange (/wiki/New_Zealand_Exchange) (NZX). [2] (#cite_note-BondsUKHist-2) In 2006, Bonds manufactured 40% of its goods in Australia at three sites in New South Wales: Cessnock (/wiki/Cessnock,_New_South_Wales) , Unanderra (/wiki/Unanderra,_New_South_Wales) and Wentworthville. Pacific Brands cut 1850 jobs and ceased manufacturing in Australia by September 2010 to reduce manufacturing costs. [5] (#cite_note-OutofOz-5) After public outrage and media coverage of the sacked staff, a group of former employees banded together to form Tuffys & Tuffetts underwear, buying much of Bonds' old equipment and rehiring sacked staff. [6] (#cite_note-Bonds_Staff_resurrect_Australian_manufacturing-6) On 28 April 2016 Pacific Brands entered into an agreement with Hanesbrands (/wiki/Hanesbrands) for the acquisition of 100% of the company [7] (#cite_note-7) and it became a wholly owned subsidiary of Hanesbrands on 15 July 2016. See also [ edit ] Australia portal (/wiki/Portal:Australia) Clothing portal (/wiki/Portal:Clothing) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Chesty Bond (/wiki/Chesty_Bond) List of sock manufacturers (/wiki/List_of_sock_manufacturers) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Kaye, Byron (27 April 2016). "Australia's top underwear brand back in U.S. hands after $836 million buyout" (https://www.reuters.com/article/us-pacific-brand-m-a-hanesbrands-idUSKCN0XO2XR) . Reuters . Retrieved 15 September 2023 . ^ Jump up to: a b c "Bonds UK - About us" (https://web.archive.org/web/20061024013156/http://www.bondsaustralia.co.uk/About-us/default.asp) . Bonds UK. Archived from the original (http://www.bondsaustralia.co.uk/About-us/default.asp) on 24 October 2006 . Retrieved 6 December 2006 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) Industrial Section (https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/159916554) , Daily Commercial News and Shipping List (Sydney), 24 October 1923, page 18. ^ (#cite_ref-4) Cotton Spinning Mill!: Bond's Enterprise (https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/85873471) , Windsor and Richmond Gazette , 9 November 1923, page 6. ^ (#cite_ref-OutofOz_5-0) Sharp, Ari; Zappone, Chris (25 February 2009). "Pacific Brands Exit Australia" (http://business.smh.com.au/business/pac-brands-exits-australian-manufacturing-20090225-8hei.html) . Sydney Morning Herald . Retrieved 25 February 2009 . ^ (#cite_ref-Bonds_Staff_resurrect_Australian_manufacturing_6-0) "Bonds Staff resurrect Australian manufacturing" (http://www.dailytelegraph.com.au/the-sacked-bonds-workers-having-a-cheeky-go-at-making-own-undies/story-e6freuy9-1226288044205) . Daily Telegraph. 23 September 2013 . Retrieved 23 September 2013 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "Pacific Brands Board unanimously recommends acquisition proposal from Hanes Brands" (http://www.asx.com.au/asxpdf/20160428/pdf/436sxc8xswv6fp.pdf) (PDF) . Company Announcement . 28 April 2016. 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Canadian manufacturer of cold weather apparel Canada Goose Holdings Inc. Company type Public (/wiki/Public_company) Traded as (/wiki/Ticker_symbol) TSX (/wiki/Toronto_Stock_Exchange) : GOOS (https://money.tmx.com/en/quote/GOOS) NYSE (/wiki/New_York_Stock_Exchange) : GOOS (https://www.nyse.com/quote/XNYS:GOOS) Industry Retail (/wiki/Retail) Founded 1957 ; 67 years ago ( 1957 ) Founder Sam Tick [1] (#cite_note-DebterForbes-1) Headquarters Toronto (/wiki/Toronto) , Ontario (/wiki/Ontario) [2] (#cite_note-GrantCB-2) , Canada Area served Online, retail stores: Chicago (/wiki/Chicago) , New York (/wiki/New_York_City) , Boston (/wiki/Boston) , Minneapolis (/wiki/Minneapolis) , Toronto (/wiki/Toronto) , Montreal (/wiki/Montreal) , Calgary (/wiki/Calgary) , Edmonton (/wiki/Edmonton) , Vancouver (/wiki/Vancouver) , Tokyo (/wiki/Tokyo) , London (/wiki/London) , Paris (/wiki/Paris) , Frankfurt (/wiki/Frankfurt) [3] (#cite_note-3) Key people Dani Reiss (/wiki/Dani_Reiss) (Chairman and CEO (/wiki/Chief_executive_officer) ) Carrie Baker [4] (#cite_note-4) ( President (/wiki/President_(corporate_title)) ) Products Outerwear (/wiki/Outerwear) Knitwear (/wiki/Knitwear) Revenue CA$ (/wiki/Canadian_dollar) 1.33 billion (2024) Operating income (/wiki/Earnings_before_interest_and_taxes) CA$125 million (2024) Net income (/wiki/Net_income) CA$58 million (2024) Total assets (/wiki/Asset) CA$1.48 billion (2024) Total equity (/wiki/Equity_(finance)) CA$424 million (2024) Owner Bain Capital (/wiki/Bain_Capital) and others Number of employees 4,462 (2024) [5] (#cite_note-AR24-5) Website canadagoose (http://canadagoose.com) .com (http://canadagoose.com) Footnotes / references Financials as of March 31, 2024 [update] (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Canada_Goose_(clothing)&action=edit) [5] (#cite_note-AR24-5) Canada Goose Holdings Inc. is a Canadian holding company (/wiki/Holding_company) of winter clothing (/wiki/Winter_clothing) manufacturers. The company was founded in 1957 by Sam Tick, under the name Metro Sportswear Ltd. [6] (#cite_note-Profit-6) History [ edit ] In 1957, Polish- Jewish (/wiki/Ashkenazi_Jews) immigrant Sam Tick founded Metro Sportswear, the company that would later become Canada Goose. [1] (#cite_note-DebterForbes-1) [7] (#cite_note-HealyGlobe-7) The company's first products were wool vests, raincoats, and snowsuits. [1] (#cite_note-DebterForbes-1) Tick's son-in-law David Reiss joined Metro Sportswear in 1972 and introduced a down-filling machine that allowed the company to more efficiently produce winter jackets. [8] (#cite_note-GajoNuvo-8) [9] (#cite_note-SorgeVue-9) By the late 1970s, the company was supplying parkas to police, corrections officers, park rangers, and other public sector workers under the Snow Goose brand name. [10] (#cite_note-SymeNewYorker-10) [6] (#cite_note-Profit-6) It also sold designs to larger apparel manufacturers such as L.L. Bean (/wiki/L.L._Bean) and Eddie Bauer (/wiki/Eddie_Bauer) . [10] (#cite_note-SymeNewYorker-10) [6] (#cite_note-Profit-6) In 1982, Reiss succeeded Tick as the company's CEO. [9] (#cite_note-SorgeVue-9) [8] (#cite_note-GajoNuvo-8) In 1985, Reiss acquired a majority stake in the company and changed its name to Snow Goose . [10] (#cite_note-SymeNewYorker-10) [8] (#cite_note-GajoNuvo-8) In 1997, David's son Dani Reiss (/wiki/Dani_Reiss) joined the company, initially working in sales. [1] (#cite_note-DebterForbes-1) [6] (#cite_note-Profit-6) In 2000, at Dani Reiss's urging, the company changed its name from Snow Goose to Canada Goose. [11] (#cite_note-AtkinsonNP-11) The following year, Dani Reiss took over from his father as CEO of the company. [6] (#cite_note-Profit-6) [7] (#cite_note-HealyGlobe-7) Under Dani Reiss' leadership, the company discontinued its private label operations to focus mainly on consumer products. [6] (#cite_note-Profit-6) The business saw rapid growth around the turn of the millennium and revenues increased from roughly $3 million in 1991 to roughly $17.5 million in 2008. [12] (#cite_note-ESQwire-12) 21st century [ edit ] In 2010 Canada Goose opened an office in Stockholm (/wiki/Stockholm) , Sweden, for its European operations. [13] (#cite_note-FP-13) In 2011, Canada Goose acquired a new plant in Winnipeg (/wiki/Winnipeg) , Manitoba, Canada. [14] (#cite_note-14) As global growth continued, Canada Goose moved its Winnipeg operations into a larger facility in 2013. [15] (#cite_note-15) This growth occurred when the luxury parka market grew significantly, with Canadian luxury apparel brands, including Canada Goose, aggressively marketing their parkas to young Canadians. [16] (#cite_note-16) In January 2012, Canada Goose launched a lawsuit against International Clothiers in the Federal Court of Canada (/wiki/Federal_Court_of_Canada) for trademark infringement (/wiki/Trademark_infringement) . Canada Goose alleged International Clothiers of intentionally designing a logo and positioning it on jackets to mimic the Canada Goose Arctic Program trademark. The International Clothiers product lines in question were the foreign-manufactured Canada Weather Gear and Super Triple Goose. [17] (#cite_note-17) Canada Goose claimed that unfair business practices were used including publishing print advertisements to promote the jackets as Canada Goose products. [18] (#cite_note-18) A settlement was reached in November 2012. [19] (#cite_note-19) A seamstress sewing the brand label onto a piece of fabric at the Canada Goose manufacturing plant in Toronto. In December 2013, Boston-based private equity firm Bain Capital (/wiki/Bain_Capital) acquired a 70 per cent equity stake in Canada Goose at a $250 million valuation. [20] (#cite_note-NYT122013-20) [21] (#cite_note-21) The deal included a commitment to keep manufacturing in Canada. [22] (#cite_note-iain-22) At the time, the company had grown to approximately 1,000 employees and had recently opened new manufacturing plants in Toronto (/wiki/Toronto) and Winnipeg (/wiki/Winnipeg) . [23] (#cite_note-GellesNYT-23) In December 2014, Canada Goose opened a showroom and sales office in New York City. [24] (#cite_note-StockBloomberg-24) [25] (#cite_note-HunstigSpinoff-25) From 2001 to 2014, the company's sales revenue had grown from $3 million to $200 million. [26] (#cite_note-GreenInsider-26) Storefront for Canada Goose at Yorkdale Shopping Centre (/wiki/Yorkdale_Shopping_Centre) in 2017. In January 2015, Canada Goose acquired a second manufacturing facility in Scarborough (/wiki/Scarborough,_Ontario) and opened a second factory in Winnipeg that November. [27] (#cite_note-27) [28] (#cite_note-28) In late 2016, Canada Goose opened a store in Toronto's Yorkdale Shopping Centre (/wiki/Yorkdale_Shopping_Centre) . [29] (#cite_note-KopunStar-29) [30] (#cite_note-OriTribune-30) The company announced preparations in November 2016 for an initial public offering (/wiki/Initial_public_offering) , [31] (#cite_note-31) reporting that it generated $291 million in revenue and $27 million in profit in 2016 and had $278 million in debt. [32] (#cite_note-32) On March 16, 2017, shares of the company began trading on the Toronto Stock Exchange (/wiki/Toronto_Stock_Exchange) and New York Stock Exchange (/wiki/New_York_Stock_Exchange) under the ticker symbol (/wiki/Ticker_symbol) GOOS. [33] (#cite_note-trading_start,_mar_2017-33) The IPO was composed of 20 million shares selling for around $13 per share, and raised approximately $255 million in new revenue. [34] (#cite_note-DebterForbes2-34) [35] (#cite_note-ThomasCNBC-35) In June 2017, Canada Goose opened its first manufacturing facility in Quebec (/wiki/Quebec) , a 95,000 square foot facility in Boisbriand (/wiki/Boisbriand) . [36] (#cite_note-StaffCTV-36) In October 2017, Canada Goose opened its second United States flagship store on the Magnificent Mile (/wiki/Magnificent_Mile) in Chicago (/wiki/Chicago) . [37] (#cite_note-37) A third Winnipeg-based Canada Goose manufacturing plant opened in September 2018. [38] (#cite_note-CashWFP-38) This facility brought Canada Goose's employee count in Winnipeg to 1,700 workers. [38] (#cite_note-CashWFP-38) Two months later, the company expanded into China, despite calls to boycott Canadian products over the arrest of Huawei (/wiki/Huawei) CFO Meng Wanzhou (/wiki/Meng_Wanzhou) in Canada. It established a store in Beijing, [39] (#cite_note-StaffCBC3-39) opening in December 2018. [40] (#cite_note-40) In May 2019, the company opened its eighth Canadian production facility and first in Montreal (/wiki/Montreal) . [41] (#cite_note-WrightStyle-41) [42] (#cite_note-StaffCTV2-42) In May 2024, Canada Goose appointed Haider Ackermann (/wiki/Haider_Ackermann) as its first-ever creative director. [43] (#cite_note-GQGoh-43) [44] (#cite_note-44) [45] (#cite_note-45) Products [ edit ] Members of the United States Antarctic Program (/wiki/United_States_Antarctic_Program) in Canada Goose parkas at Observation Hill (/wiki/Observation_Hill_(McMurdo_Station)) in Antarctica Canada Goose manufactures outerwear and apparel, including coats, parkas, knitwear, hats, gloves and footwear. [46] (#cite_note-OnitaFP-46) [47] (#cite_note-MulveyEsq-47) Its longest-running products are its parkas, which are meant to keep the wearer warm in freezing temperatures. [1] (#cite_note-DebterForbes-1) [48] (#cite_note-IsmaelInsider-48) These coats have been worn by researchers in the United States Antarctic Program (/wiki/United_States_Antarctic_Program) and in dogsledding events such as the Iditarod (/wiki/Iditarod) and the Yukon Quest (/wiki/Yukon_Quest) [49] (#cite_note-Globe-49) [50] (#cite_note-BroudyGJ-50) In November 2018, the company acquired the bootmaker Baffin. In November 2021, Canada Goose launched its first-ever footwear collection. [51] (#cite_note-BhasinBloomberg-51) [52] (#cite_note-SegranFC-52) The brand's logo on a piece of apparel The brand is known for its distinctive logo, which resembles an arctic map of the North Pole (/wiki/North_Pole) encircled by red text that reads "CANADA GOOSE" on top and "ARCTIC PROGRAM" along the bottom. This badge is usually placed on the upper arm of a coat or jacket. [53] (#cite_note-53) The company does not outsource its manufacturing or license its brand to other manufacturers, and brands its products as "Made in Canada". [54] (#cite_note-54) [55] (#cite_note-55) Its manufacturing facilities are based in Canada. [23] (#cite_note-GellesNYT-23) Counterfeiting [ edit ] To combat counterfeiting, Canada Goose has set up a web page that verifies whether Canada Goose goods sold by a particular vendor are authentic or not. [56] (#cite_note-56) Fake Canada Goose Jackets are one of the many counterfeit items being handled by Project Chargeback, a collaboration between the Canadian Anti-Fraud Centre, credit-card companies, and banks, to scrutinize online merchant accounts. [57] (#cite_note-theatl-57) In 2011, as an anti-counterfeiting measure, Canada Goose began sewing hologram trademarks (/wiki/Hologram_trademark) into its jackets as proof of authenticity. [58] (#cite_note-58) In October 2012, Canada Goose won a legal battle against counterfeiters in Sweden. The District Court of Stockholm found five individuals guilty of felony fraud, trademark infringement, and customs offences. The Court sentenced two of the defendants to serve time in prison and awarded Canada Goose damages of 701,000 SEK (/wiki/Swedish_krona) (approximately CAD$ (/wiki/Canadian_dollar) 105,000). [59] (#cite_note-59) [60] (#cite_note-60) Sustainability [ edit ] In 2023, the company launched Generations, a platform intended to keep its products in circulation by allowing consumers to trade in and purchase previously owned Canada Goose apparel. [61] (#cite_note-DeschampsNP2-61) [62] (#cite_note-SimmsRR-62) Environmental and social impact [ edit ] In 2019, Canada Goose instituted a program called Project Atigi, through which it has partnered with Inuit seamstresses across Canada to produce jackets and parkas. [63] (#cite_note-PalmieriWWD-63) [64] (#cite_note-AndersonVMag-64) Proceeds from the sale of this outerwear goes to the Canadian nonprofit organization Inuit Tapiriit Kanatami (/wiki/Inuit_Tapiriit_Kanatami) . [63] (#cite_note-PalmieriWWD-63) [64] (#cite_note-AndersonVMag-64) As the COVID-19 pandemic (/wiki/COVID-19_pandemic) was developing in March 2020, Canada Goose produced 2.5 million PPE units, which were delivered at cost to provincial and federal governments. [65] (#cite_note-Reuters20-65) [66] (#cite_note-Desjardins-66) In June 2020, the company announced it was donating another 20,000 uniforms to personnel at eight Mount Sinai (/wiki/Mount_Sinai_Hospital_(Manhattan)) hospitals in New York. [67] (#cite_note-MiltonVMag-67) Treatment of animals [ edit ] Canada Goose has been criticized by animal rights groups and anti-fur advocates for the use of goose down and coyote fur in the construction of its jackets. [68] (#cite_note-Newsweek-68) [69] (#cite_note-KornelsenHuffPo-69) In 2015, a group called Animal Justice Canada filed a complaint with the Competition Bureau of Canada claiming that the trapping methods used by Canada Goose's coyote fur suppliers were inhumane. [68] (#cite_note-Newsweek-68) In March 2017, PETA (/wiki/PETA) bought 230 shares of the company so it could propose a shareholder resolution at Canada Goose's next annual meeting to "ask them to abandon the cruel use of fur and feathers." [70] (#cite_note-IsraelCBC-70) In April 2020, the company announced that by 2022, all of the fur in its jackets would be sourced from reclaimed coyote fur already existing within supply chains. [71] (#cite_note-TestaNYT-71) In June 2021, Canada Goose amended that plan, announcing it would stop using fur entirely by 2022. [72] (#cite_note-FickenscherNYP-72) PETA subsequently suspended its international campaign against Canada Goose, while still urging the manufacturer not to use goose down in its jackets. [73] (#cite_note-GarciaMarketWatch-73) In November 2021, the company's goods achieved the Responsible Down Standard, a certification that ensures feathers in Canada Goose jackets are sourced, according to certifying body the Environmental and Ethical Certification Institute, from "farms that respect animal welfare". [74] (#cite_note-GloverETNews-74) [75] (#cite_note-ICEA-75) In popular culture [ edit ] Canada Goose has used product placement (/wiki/Product_placement) to promote its products. [76] (#cite_note-76) [77] (#cite_note-77) The jackets have been worn in several films, starting with The Day After Tomorrow (/wiki/The_Day_After_Tomorrow) . [49] (#cite_note-Globe-49) American model Kate Upton (/wiki/Kate_Upton) appeared on the cover of the 2013 Sports Illustrated (/wiki/Sports_Illustrated) Swimsuit edition in a bikini bottom and a Canada Goose parka. [78] (#cite_note-78) The Sports Illustrated cover was later parodied in an ad for Moose Knuckles, another Canadian appareller and competitor to Canada Goose. [79] (#cite_note-79) [80] (#cite_note-80) In 2016, rapper Lil Uzi Vert (/wiki/Lil_Uzi_Vert) released a mixtape featuring a song titled "Canadian Goose". [81] (#cite_note-81) Professional athletes have also promoted Canada Goose. During Boston Red Sox (/wiki/Boston_Red_Sox) designated hitter David Ortiz (/wiki/David_Ortiz) 's final trip to Toronto during the 2016 Major League Baseball season (/wiki/2016_Major_League_Baseball_season) , Toronto Blue Jays (/wiki/Toronto_Blue_Jays) players José Bautista (/wiki/Jos%C3%A9_Bautista) and Edwin Encarnación (/wiki/Edwin_Encarnaci%C3%B3n) each gave Ortiz a custom-made Canada Goose jacket, valued at US$1000. [82] (#cite_note-82) [83] (#cite_note-83) In 2020, amidst the COVID-19 pandemic, actor Ryan Reynolds (/wiki/Ryan_Reynolds) and Canada Goose donated parkas for 300 students in Arctic Bay (/wiki/Arctic_Bay) , Nunavut (/wiki/Nunavut) . [84] (#cite_note-84) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b c d e Debter, Lauren (May 31, 2019). "The Golden Goose: How Dani Reiss Became A Billionaire Turning Canada Goose Into A Luxury Brand Powerhouse" (https://www.forbes.com/sites/laurendebter/2019/04/18/how-dani-reiss-became-a-billionaire-turning-canada-goose-into-a-luxury-brand-powerhouse/?sh=5938feab4041) . Forbes . Retrieved March 28, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-GrantCB_2-0) Grant, Jean (August 8, 2023). "Workspace of the Week: Inside Canada Goose's Museum-Like Waterfront Office in Toronto" (https://canadianbusiness.com/design/canada-goose-headquarters-toronto-office/) . Canadian Business . Retrieved September 5, 2023 . ^ (#cite_ref-3) "Canada Goose sees half of profits in long term from own stores, e-commerce | CBC News" (http://www.cbc.ca/news/business/canada-goose-e-commerce-sales-1.4394824) . Cbc.ca. 2017-11-09 . Retrieved 2018-11-26 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) Clark, Evan (31 March 2022). "Carrie Baker Promoted to President at Canada Goose" (https://wwd.com/business-news/human-resources/carrie-baker-promoted-to-president-at-canada-goose-1235146106/) . WWD . ^ Jump up to: a b "Canada Goose Holdings Inc. Annual Report (Form 20-F)" (https://www.sec.gov/ix?doc=/Archives/edgar/data/1690511/000169051124000010/goos-20240331.htm) . U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission. May 16, 2024. ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f Lorinc, John (17 October 2012). "The Golden Goose" (https://web.archive.org/web/20131109044446/http://www.profitguide.com/manage-grow/strategy-operations/the-golden-goose-42172/2) . Profit Guide . Archived from the original (http://www.profitguide.com/manage-grow/strategy-operations/the-golden-goose-42172/2) on 2013-11-09 . Retrieved 19 November 2012 . ^ Jump up to: a b Healy, Beth (March 16, 2017). 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Retrieved 28 January 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-WrightStyle_41-0) Wright, Beth (May 1, 2019). "Canada Goose officially opens new Montreal factory" (https://www.just-style.com/news/canada-goose-officially-opens-new-montreal-factory/) . Just Style . Retrieved March 30, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-StaffCTV2_42-0) "Canada Goose to open new Montreal factory, hire 650 people" (https://montreal.ctvnews.ca/canada-goose-to-open-new-montreal-factory-hire-650-people-1.4296768) . CTV . February 14, 2019 . Retrieved March 30, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-GQGoh_43-0) Goh, Yang-Yi (May 15, 2024). "Haider Ackermann, Timothée Chalamet's Fashion BFF, Is Canada Goose's First-Ever Creative Director" (https://www.gq.com/story/haider-ackermann-canada-goose-creative-director?ref=upstract.com) . GQ . Retrieved May 29, 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-44) "Haider Ackermann, nommé premier directeur de la création Canada Goose" (https://www.vogue.fr/article/haider-ackermann-directeur-creation-canada-goose) . Vogue . 15 May 2024 . Retrieved 4 June 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-45) "Quel célèbre créateur prend la direction artistique de Canada Goose ?" (https://www.numero.com/fr/mode/haider-ackermann-devient-le-nouvau-directeur-artistique-de-canada-goose) . Numéro Magazine . Retrieved 4 June 2024 . ^ (#cite_ref-OnitaFP_46-0) Onita, Laura (November 17, 2021). " (https://financialpost.com/news/retail-marketing/i-wanted-to-write-short-stories-canada-goose-chief-spills-on-running-the-family-business-and-finally-ditching-fur) 'I wanted to write short stories': Canada Goose chief spills on running the family business and finally ditching fur" (https://financialpost.com/news/retail-marketing/i-wanted-to-write-short-stories-canada-goose-chief-spills-on-running-the-family-business-and-finally-ditching-fur) . Financial Post . Retrieved March 30, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-MulveyEsq_47-0) Mulvey, Kelsey (November 29, 2021). 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Retrieved April 7, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-ICEA_75-0) "Responsible Down Standard" (https://icea.bio/en/certifications/non-food/biological-and-sustainable-textile-products/responsible-down-standard) . ICEA . April 7, 2022 . Retrieved April 7, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-76) Haynes, Megan (28 September 2018). "Enter the Parka Wars" (http://strategyonline.ca/2018/09/28/enter-the-parka-wars/) . strategyonline.ca . Retrieved 28 January 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-77) Syme, Rachel (16 February 2017). "The Rise of Canada Goose's Hollywood-Friendly Coats" (http://www.newyorker.com/culture/on-and-off-the-avenue/the-rise-of-canada-gooses-hollywood-friendly-coats) . The New Yorker (/wiki/The_New_Yorker) . Retrieved 19 February 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-78) Trevor Melanson, "Kate Upton rocks Canada Goose for Sports Illustrated swimsuit edition" (https://www.canadianbusiness.com/companies-and-industries/kate-upton-sports-canada-goose-for-sports-illustrated-swimsuit-edition/) . Canadian Business , Feb 14, 2013 ^ (#cite_ref-79) "Moose Knuckles Canada" (https://arnoldzwicky.org/2013/07/07/moose-knuckles-canada/) . arnoldzwicky.org . 7 July 2013 . Retrieved 28 January 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-80) Silver, Dena (2015-11-19). "This Edgy Canadian Outerwear Line Just Might Dethrone Canada Goose" (https://observer.com/2015/11/this-edgy-canadian-outerwear-line-just-might-dethrone-canada-goose/) . Observer . Retrieved 2018-11-25 . ^ (#cite_ref-81) "The 20 Best Lil Uzi Vert Songs"All My Chains" (https://www.complex.com/music/2017/11/best-lil-uzi-vert-songs/all-my-chains-on) " (https://www.complex.com/music/2017/11/best-lil-uzi-vert-songs/all-my-chains-on) . Complex . Retrieved 28 January 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-82) Zwolinski, Mark (2016-09-09). "Blue Jays honour retiring Red Sox slugger David Ortiz" (https://www.thestar.com/sports/bluejays/2016/09/09/blue-jays-honour-retiring-red-sox-slugger-david-ortiz.html) . The Star . Retrieved 2018-11-25 . ^ (#cite_ref-83) Hartwell, Darren (2016-09-09). "Blue Jays Present David Ortiz With Retirement Gift That's Classic Canada | Boston Red Sox" (http://nesn.com/2016/09/blue-jays-present-david-ortiz-with-most-canadian-retirement-gift-ever/) . NESN.com . Retrieved 2018-11-25 . ^ (#cite_ref-84) Taylor, Juanita (November 9, 2020) [November 7, 2020]. "How a tweet led Ryan Reynolds to donate parkas to this Nunavut community" (https://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/north/ryan-reynolds-canada-goose-donate-parkas-arctic-bay-nunavut-1.5793649) . CBC News . External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Canada Goose (brand) (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Canada_Goose_(brand)) . 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French fashion designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac Born ( 1949-11-28 ) 28 November 1949 (age 74) Casablanca (/wiki/Casablanca) , French Morocco (/wiki/French_protectorate_in_Morocco) Nationality French Children Louis-Marie de Castelbajac (/wiki/Louis-Marie_de_Castelbajac) Guilhem de Castelbajac Eugénie de Castelbajac Website jeancharlesdecastelbajac (http://jeancharlesdecastelbajac.com) .com (http://jeancharlesdecastelbajac.com) Arche de Noé (Teddy Bear Jacket), Winter 1988-89 ( RISD Museum (/wiki/RISD_Museum) ) Jean-Charles, marquis de Castelbajac [1] (#cite_note-Alexander-1) (born 28 November 1949), also known as JC/DC , [2] (#cite_note-Pernet-2) is a French fashion designer. He has enjoyed international success with some of his creations, including a coat of teddy bears (/wiki/Teddy_bear) worn by pop star Madonna (/wiki/Madonna_(entertainer)) [3] (#cite_note-popaganda-3) and by supermodel Helena Christensen (/wiki/Helena_Christensen) in the film Prêt-à-Porter (/wiki/Pr%C3%AAt-%C3%A0-Porter_(film)) and a sequin jacket for Beyonce (/wiki/Beyonc%C3%A9) , and a Donald Duck (/wiki/Donald_Duck) costume for Rihanna (/wiki/Rihanna) . During his career he has befriended and worked with artists such as Andy Warhol (/wiki/Andy_Warhol) , Keith Haring (/wiki/Keith_Haring) , Jean Michel Basquiat (/wiki/Jean-Michel_Basquiat) , Malcolm McLaren (/wiki/Malcolm_McLaren) , Robert Mapplethorpe (/wiki/Robert_Mapplethorpe) , M.I.A (/wiki/M.I.A._(artist)) , Cassette Playa (/wiki/Cassette_Playa) , Curry & Coco, The Coconut Twins and Lady Gaga (/wiki/Lady_Gaga) . His fashion archive was showcased in preparation for his retrospective "Gallie Rock" in Paris (/wiki/Paris) by photographers Tim and Barry, modelled by Cassette Playa (/wiki/Cassette_Playa) , M.I.A. (/wiki/M.I.A._(artist)) , Jammer (/wiki/Jammer_(rapper)) , Matthew Stone (/wiki/Matthew_Stone) , Slew Dem Crew, and more. [4] (#cite_note-4) His creations have been displayed at New York's Institute of Fashion and Technology (/wiki/Fashion_Institute_of_Technology) , London's Victoria&Albert Museum (/wiki/Victoria_and_Albert_Museum) and the Galliera Museum (https://www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr/en) in Paris. In 2015, he created a 3,700 m2 "Mural for Orly Airport in Paris" (https://www.parisaeroport.fr/en/passengers/services/news/paris-orly-by-castelbajac) . As well as his imaginative clothing collections, [1] (#cite_note-Alexander-1) [2] (#cite_note-Pernet-2) the designer creates home furnishings [3] (#cite_note-popaganda-3) and has designed a watch inspired by the childhood favourite, Lego (/wiki/Lego) . He also has collaborated with Swatch (/wiki/Swatch) , Weston, Ligne Roset (/wiki/Ligne_Roset) , Petit Bateau, Citroën (/wiki/Citro%C3%ABn) , Tecnica, Kway, Coca-Cola (/wiki/Coca-Cola) , Vilebrequin (/wiki/Vilebrequin) , Aigle and Palace skateboards (/wiki/Palace_Skateboards) . All the artistic environments he touches on have his signature rainbow chromatic range in common. One of the best examples of this is the line he created for Pope John Paul II (/wiki/Pope_John_Paul_II) , 500 bishops and 5,000 priests for the 1997 World Youth Day (/wiki/World_Youth_Day_1997) in Paris. [5] (#cite_note-5) As Keith Haring (/wiki/Keith_Haring) initiated him to street-art, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac uses chalk to leave his poetic mark on the walls of the world's capitals. His career as a fashion designer started in 1968 alongside his mother, when he created Ko & Co. The first "manifesto" piece of clothing he produced was a coat he made, using the blanket he used when he was at boarding school. He founded maison Jean-Charles de Castelbajac in 1978, which he left in 2016. Between the 1970s and the 1990s, de Castelbajac was also the artistic director of fashion houses including Max Mara (/wiki/Max_Mara) and Courrèges (/w/index.php?title=Courr%C3%A8ges&action=edit&redlink=1) and he co-founded Iceberg in 1974. In 1979, in consonance with pop art, he designed cartoon pullovers that have since become iconic. In 2005, Raika (/w/index.php?title=Raika_(company)&action=edit&redlink=1) was the de Castelbajac ready-to-wear (/wiki/Ready-to-wear) license holder in Japan with retail value of €20 million. [6] (#cite_note-Luxury-6) He also attended King of kitsch at Paris Fashion Week in 2010. In 2017, he collaborated with smartphone maker OnePlus (/wiki/OnePlus) to release a collection called the "Callection" [7] (#cite_note-7) that was centred around a limited edition OnePlus 5 (/wiki/OnePlus_5) smartphone (/wiki/Smartphone) . In 2018, he was named artistic director for the Benetton Group (/wiki/Benetton_Group) . [8] (#cite_note-8) In 2019, he collaborated with Palace Skateboards (/wiki/Palace_Skateboards) to release a collection featuring clothing, hats, and playing cards. [9] (#cite_note-9) References [ edit ] ^ Jump up to: a b Alexander, Hilary (10 May 2005). "In the front row: behind the scenes at Paris Fashion Week" (https://web.archive.org/web/20080606014918/http://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/main.jhtml?xml=/fashion/2005/10/05/effront05.xml) . The Daily Telegraph (/wiki/The_Daily_Telegraph) . Archived from the original (https://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/main.jhtml?xml=/fashion/2005/10/05/effront05.xml) on 6 June 2008. Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, French fashion's only marquis (/wiki/Marquess) , is looking forward to the major retrospective of his 45-year career at the Victoria and Albert Museum (/wiki/Victoria_and_Albert_Museum) in January. De Castelbajac pioneered Snoopy (/wiki/Snoopy) and Mickey Mouse (/wiki/Mickey_Mouse) fashion, made coats out of teddy bears, took inspiration from artists such as Keith Haring (/wiki/Keith_Haring) , and designed Eddie Murphy (/wiki/Eddie_Murphy) 's costumes for his starring role in Coming to America (/wiki/Coming_to_America) in 1988. ^ Jump up to: a b Pernet, Diane (February 2007). "IQONS Interview with JC de Castelbajac" (https://web.archive.org/web/20070927051405/http://www.iqons.com/iqons.php?fct=page&i=39) . IQONS.com . Archived from the original (http://www.iqons.com/iqons.php?fct=page&i=39) on 27 September 2007. The most amazing adventure of JC/DC's life so far was when he was asked to dress 5,000 priests, 500 bishops and the Pope (/wiki/Pope_John_Paul_II) for their visit in Paris. The theme of the collection was the rainbow based on the story of Noah and the arc (/wiki/Noah%27s_Ark) . God spoke to Noah and told him that "if you see the rainbow in the sky there will be peace between me and the human race". The idea went over well but JC/DC thought it best to inform the Bishop that the rainbow was also the symbol of the gay community. The Bishop's reaction was not one of shock rather he said that nobody owned the copyright on the rainbow (/wiki/Rainbows_in_mythology#Jewish_mythology) and that was that. Once the work was completed the Pope spoke to JC/DC: "Young man, you have used colour as a cement of faith." ^ Jump up to: a b Victoria and Albert Museum (/wiki/Victoria_and_Albert_Museum) (2006). "Popaganda: The Fashion & Style of JC de Castelbajac" (https://web.archive.org/web/20070701004256/http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/exhibs_displays/castelbajac/index.html) . Archived from the original (http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/exhibs_displays/castelbajac/index.html) on 1 July 2007. An inspired collaborator, his design work includes ready-to-wear (/wiki/Ready-to-wear) as well as cars, sportswear and interiors. A fashion star of the 1970s and 1980s, his idiosyncratic designs mix bright colours, popular culture and humour. The mid-1970s saw him dress Farrah Fawcett (/wiki/Farrah_Fawcett) for the hit TV series Charlie's Angels (/wiki/Charlie%27s_Angels) and collaborating with Mick Jagger (/wiki/Mick_Jagger) and Elton John (/wiki/Elton_John) . His rainbow flag vestments for the Pope (/wiki/Pope_John_Paul_II) earned him further fame. ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Paris Fashion Week: Jean-Charles de Castelbajac SS 08 - modabot" (http://www.modabot.de/paris-fashion-week-jean-charles-de-castelbajac-ss-08) . www.modabot.de . 6 October 2007. ^ (#cite_ref-5) "Pope Benedict: His true legacy is his fashion sense" (https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/fashion-blog/2013/mar/03/pope-benedict-true-legacy-fashion-sense) . The Guardian (/wiki/The_Guardian) . 3 March 2013. ^ (#cite_ref-Luxury_6-0) Chevalier, Michel (2012). Luxury Brand Management . Singapore: John Wiley & Sons. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-118-17176-9 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "OnePlus & JCC+ – A Fusion of Art and Tech" (https://oneplus.net/global/jcc) . oneplus.net . Retrieved 25 September 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "Jean-Charles de Castelbajac new Benetton artistic director" (https://fashionunited.com/executive/management/jean-charles-de-castelbajac-new-benetton-artistic-director/2018100823895) . Fashion United . 8 October 2018 . Retrieved 4 December 2019 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) Palace / Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, [1] (https://www.palaceskateboards.com/palace-jean-charles-de-castelbajac) . External links [ edit ] jeancharlesdecastelbajac (http://jeancharlesdecastelbajac.com) .com (http://jeancharlesdecastelbajac.com) , de Castelbajac's official website Authority control databases (/wiki/Help:Authority_control) International VIAF (https://viaf.org/viaf/105959123) National France (https://catalogue.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/cb125326095) BnF data (https://data.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/cb125326095) Germany (https://d-nb.info/gnd/120742594) United States (https://id.loc.gov/authorities/n94073109) Artists RKD Artists (https://rkd.nl/en/explore/artists/238107) ULAN (https://www.getty.edu/vow/ULANFullDisplay?find=&role=&nation=&subjectid=500026557) Other SNAC (https://snaccooperative.org/ark:/99166/w6739299) Portals (/wiki/Wikipedia:Contents/Portals) : Biography (/wiki/Portal:Biography) Fashion (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) France (/wiki/Portal:France) NewPP limit report Parsed by mw‐web.codfw.main‐5b8f7f4b65‐8pzjf Cached time: 20240623165952 Cache expiry: 2592000 Reduced expiry: false Complications: [vary‐revision‐sha1] CPU time usage: 0.469 seconds Real time usage: 0.646 seconds Preprocessor visited node count: 2287/1000000 Post‐expand include size: 32033/2097152 bytes Template argument size: 2379/2097152 bytes Highest expansion depth: 13/100 Expensive parser function count: 13/500 Unstrip recursion depth: 1/20 Unstrip post‐expand size: 40892/5000000 bytes Lua time usage: 0.316/10.000 seconds Lua memory usage: 6320299/52428800 bytes Number of Wikibase entities loaded: 1/400 Transclusion expansion time report (%,ms,calls,template) 100.00% 595.215 1 -total 27.76% 165.246 1 Template:Infobox_fashion_designer 26.97% 160.526 1 Template:Reflist 18.05% 107.463 1 Template:ACArt 16.90% 100.569 1 Template:Short_description 15.13% 90.054 1 Template:Cite_news 9.43% 56.123 21 Template:Main_other 9.39% 55.896 4 Template:Br_separated_entries 7.99% 47.560 2 Template:Pagetype 7.74% 46.088 1 Template:Birth_date_and_age Saved in parser cache with key enwiki:pcache:idhash:4742302-0!canonical and timestamp 20240623165952 and revision id 1228061572. 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This article is about the clothing company. For other uses, see Hanes (disambiguation) (/wiki/Hanes_(disambiguation)) , Haines (disambiguation) (/wiki/Haines_(disambiguation)) , and Haynes (disambiguation) (/wiki/Haynes_(disambiguation)) . American clothing brand Hanes Company type Brand (/wiki/Brand) Genre Clothing Founded July 26, 1900 ; 123 years ago ( 1900-07-26 ) (as Shamrock Knitting Mills) Founder John Wesley Hanes (/wiki/John_Wesley_Hanes_I) Headquarters Winston-Salem (/wiki/Winston-Salem,_North_Carolina) , North Carolina (/wiki/North_Carolina) , U.S. (/wiki/United_States) Products Underwear, casualwear, hosiery and socks Owner Hanes, Inc. Parent (/wiki/Parent_company) Hanesbrands (/wiki/Hanesbrands) Website www (http://www.hanes.com) .hanes (http://www.hanes.com) .com (http://www.hanes.com) Hanes (founded in 1900) and Hanes Her Way (founded in 1985) is a brand of clothing (/wiki/Clothing) . History [ edit ] Hanes was founded in 1900 by John Wesley Hanes (one of Winston-Salem's wealthiest and most influential business men) at Winston Salem, North Carolina (/wiki/Winston-Salem,_North_Carolina) under the name Shamrock Knitting Mills. [1] (#cite_note-1) He died of heart trouble in 1903. In 1911, Shamrock Knitting Mills built a new plant at 3rd and Marshall Streets; it was sold in 1926 and occupied by a Cadillac (/wiki/Cadillac) dealership after a larger plant was built on West 14th Street. Known as Shamrock Mills (/wiki/Shamrock_Mills) , the original building was listed on the National Register of Historic Places (/wiki/National_Register_of_Historic_Places) in 1978. Shamrock Knitting Mills was named Hanes Hosiery Mills Company in 1914. [2] (#cite_note-nrhpinv-2) [3] (#cite_note-nris-3) John Wesley Hanes' brother Pleasant H. Hanes founded the P.H. Hanes Knitting Company (/wiki/P.H._Hanes_Knitting_Company) in 1901. The brothers previously operated a tobacco manufacturing business, that they sold to R. J. Reynolds Tobacco Company (/wiki/R._J._Reynolds_Tobacco_Company) in 1900. The P.H. Hanes Knitting Company merged with Hanes Hosiery in 1965. The P.H. Hanes Knitting Company complex was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 2005. [3] (#cite_note-nris-3) [4] (#cite_note-nrhpinv1-4) In 1965 the Hanes Corporation was formed from the consolidation of two Hanes companies: P. H. Hanes Knitting Company and Hanes Hosiery Mills Company [5] (#cite_note-5) In 1979, the corporation became part of Consolidated Foods (later renamed Sara Lee). [6] (#cite_note-6) [7] (#cite_note-7) In September 2006, Sara Lee (/wiki/Sara_Lee_(corporation)) Corporation spun off (/wiki/Corporate_spin-off) its branded clothing Americas and Asia business as a separate company called Hanesbrands Inc. (/wiki/Hanesbrands_Inc.) , which designs, manufactures, sources and sells a broad range of clothing essentials. The company's portfolio of brands include Hanes (its largest brand), Champion (/wiki/Champion_(sportswear)) (its second largest brand), Playtex (/wiki/Playtex) (its third largest brand), Bali (/wiki/Bali_(lingerie)) , Just My Size, Barely There, Wonderbra (/wiki/Wonderbra) , L’eggs (/wiki/L%E2%80%99eggs) , C9 by Champion, Duofold, Beefy-T, Outer Banks, Sol y Oro, Rinbros, Zorba and Ritmo. In 2016, HanesBrands acquired Pacific Brands for US$800 million, [8] (#cite_note-8) adding the Bonds (/wiki/Bonds_(clothing)) and Berlei (/wiki/Berlei) brands to its portfolio, as well as the Sheridan luxury linen brand. In February 2018 the Hanes Australasia division also acquired the Bras N Things (/wiki/Bras_N_Things) brand for an estimated AU$500 Million. [9] (#cite_note-9) During the coronavirus pandemic in United States (/wiki/COVID-19_pandemic_in_the_United_States) , Hanes retrofitted its factory to manufacture N95 masks (/wiki/N95_masks) for healthcare workers. [10] (#cite_note-10) Products [ edit ] The Hanes brand is used by the company for marketing a variety of clothing: [ citation needed ] Innerwear Women's underwear (/wiki/Underwear) , such as bras (/wiki/Brassiere) , panties (/wiki/Panties) and bodywear Men's underwear and undershirts (/wiki/Undershirt) Kids’ underwear (/wiki/Showtoons) and undershirts Socks (/wiki/Sock) Hosiery (/wiki/Hosiery) Outerwear Activewear, such as performance T-shirts (/wiki/T-shirt) and shorts Casualwear, such as T-shirts, fleece (/wiki/Polar_fleece) and sport shirts Advertising [ edit ] During the 1970s and 1980s, their women's hosiery tagline was "Gentlemen Prefer Hanes". In the early 1990s, the slogan was turned around as "The lady prefers Hanes". [11] (#cite_note-11) During the mid-1980s, television advertisements featured actress Polly Rowles endorsing the brand as “Inspector 12” with her line “They don’t say Hanes until I say they say Hanes!” From 1992 to 1999, the brand's main slogan was "Just wait'll we get our Hanes on you." [12] (#cite_note-:0-12) The slogan was revived in 2005, with celebrity endorsements including Michael Jordan (/wiki/Michael_Jordan) , Matthew Perry (/wiki/Matthew_Perry) and Marisa Tomei (/wiki/Marisa_Tomei) , as "Look who we've got our Hanes on now." [12] (#cite_note-:0-12) In 1996, Hanes was a major sponsor of the Atlanta Olympics. They produced a unique series of only 500 Beefy T-shirts; the first shirt was auctioned for $32,500, the highest price paid for a shirt was $42,000. [13] (#cite_note-13) In the 2000s, an ad campaign began for their Hanes "Go Tagless" T-shirt (/wiki/T-shirt) , featuring various celebrities including Jordan, Phillip Brooke, Big Ben Kennedy, Jackie Chan (/wiki/Jackie_Chan) , and Brian Regan (/wiki/Brian_Regan_(comedian)) . [14] (#cite_note-14) As of July 2008, Charlie Sheen (/wiki/Charlie_Sheen) joined Jordan as the next Hanes celebrity spokesman. The commercials (along with the previous Cuba Gooding, Jr. (/wiki/Cuba_Gooding,_Jr.) commercials) were created by writer Brett Baker and Art Director David McKay of The Martin Agency in Richmond, Virginia. Hanesbrands has ended its advertising campaign featuring Sheen because of domestic violence charges filed against the actor in 2010. [15] (#cite_note-15) In 2019, the company introduced body positive messaging with the "Every Bod" campaign for their FlexFit boxers, [16] (#cite_note-16) aimed to reduce the macho image associated with men's underwear. [17] (#cite_note-17) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Northwest Almanac: Shamrock Knitting Mills helped build Winston-Salem" (https://www.journalnow.com/news/local/northwest-almanac-shamrock-knitting-mills-helped-build-winston-salem/article_1da40381-c52f-52de-995d-44ca40e53991.html) . Winston-Salem Journal (/wiki/Winston-Salem_Journal) . March 19, 2018 . Retrieved March 19, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-nrhpinv_2-0) Gwynne S. Taylor (n.d.). "Shamrock Mills" (https://files.nc.gov/ncdcr/nr/FY0014.pdf) (PDF) . National Register of Historic Places - Nomination and Inventory . North Carolina State Historic Preservation Office . Retrieved November 1, 2014 . ^ Jump up to: a b "National Register Information System" (https://npgallery.nps.gov/NRHP) . National Register of Historic Places (/wiki/National_Register_of_Historic_Places) . National Park Service (/wiki/National_Park_Service) . July 9, 2010. ^ (#cite_ref-nrhpinv1_4-0) Sherry Joines Wyatt (June 2004). "P.H. Hanes Knitting Company" (https://files.nc.gov/ncdcr/nr/FY3152.pdf) (PDF) . National Register of Historic Places - Nomination and Inventory . North Carolina State Historic Preservation Office . Retrieved November 1, 2014 . ^ (#cite_ref-5) url = https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1965/02/22/101528665.html?pageNumber=30 (https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1965/02/22/101528665.html?pageNumber=30) . ^ (#cite_ref-6) "Company News" (https://www.nytimes.com/1978/12/08/archives/company-news-burlington-northern-to-spend-31-more-consolidated.html) . The New York Times . December 8, 1978. ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0362-4331 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0362-4331) . Retrieved July 29, 2018 . ^ (#cite_ref-7) "Hanes Brands | NCpedia" (https://www.ncpedia.org/hanes-brands) . www.ncpedia.org . Retrieved April 2, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-8) "HanesBrands to Acquire Pacific Brands Limited, the No. 1 Underwear and Intimate Apparel Company in Australia" (https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20160427006844/en/HanesBrands-to-Acquire-Pacific-Brands-Limited-the-No.-1-Underwear-and-Intimate-Apparel-Company-in-Australia) . Business Wire . April 27, 2016 . Retrieved May 28, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-9) "Bras N Things sold to Hanes Australasia for $500 million" (https://finance.nine.com.au/business-news/bras-n-things-acquired-for-500-million/731cee6d-5773-4d19-87a1-1ed68c9e2afc) . 9Finance . February 9, 2018 . Retrieved May 28, 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-10) "Hanes will start making masks for health care professionals treating coronavirus" (https://abcnews.go.com/Health/hanes-start-making-masks-health-care-professionals-treating/story?id=69729931) . ABC News . Retrieved March 23, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-11) Lowbrow, Yeoman (December 14, 2014). "The "Sexist" Gentlemen Prefer Hanes Adverts of the 1970s and 80s" (https://flashbak.com/the-sexist-gentlemen-prefer-hanes-adverts-of-the-1970s-and-80s-27455/) . Flashbak . Retrieved April 2, 2020 . ^ Jump up to: a b Elliott, Stuart (February 24, 2005). "Hanes Revives a Successful Campaign From the 90's" (https://www.nytimes.com/2005/02/24/business/media/hanes-revives-a-successful-campaign-from-the-90s.html) . The New York Times . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0362-4331 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0362-4331) . Retrieved November 7, 2016 . ^ (#cite_ref-13) "Most Expensive T-Shirts Around The Globe" (https://www.teevisionprinting.com/blog/most-expensive-t-shirts-around-the-globe) . Custom T shirts . Retrieved April 2, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-14) "Hanesbrands advertising & marketing assignments at adbrands.net" (https://www.adbrands.net/us/hanesbrands_us.htm) . www.adbrands.net . Retrieved April 2, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-15) "Hanes drops ads featuring Charlie Sheen" (http://usatoday30.usatoday.com/life/people/2010-01-06-sheen-hanes_N.htm) . USA Today. January 7, 2010 . Retrieved January 7, 2010 . ^ (#cite_ref-16) "Hanes pushes body positivity in 'Every Bod' campaign" (https://www.marketingdive.com/news/hanes-pushes-body-positivity-in-every-bod-campaign/560403/) . Marketing Dive . Retrieved April 2, 2020 . ^ (#cite_ref-17) Hsu, Tiffany (September 8, 2019). "Underwear Ads Lose the Macho: How Marketing Has Embraced Real Men" (https://www.nytimes.com/2019/09/08/business/media/underwear-ads-men-marketing.html) . The New York Times . ISSN (/wiki/ISSN_(identifier)) 0362-4331 (https://www.worldcat.org/issn/0362-4331) . Retrieved April 2, 2020 . External links [ edit ] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Hanes (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Hanes) . Listen to this article ( 4 minutes ) Duration: 4 minutes and 20 seconds. 4:20 This audio file (/wiki/File:En-Hanes-article.ogg) was created from a revision of this article dated 11 February 2019 ( 2019-02-11 ) , and does not reflect subsequent edits. 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Knitting method with a pattern of holes Lace knitting. Lace knitting is a style of knitting (/wiki/Knitting) characterized by stable "holes" in the fabric (/wiki/Textile) arranged with consideration of aesthetic (/wiki/Aesthetic) value. Lace (/wiki/Lace) is sometimes considered the pinnacle of knitting (/wiki/Knitting) , because of its complexity and because woven fabrics (/wiki/Woven) cannot easily be made to have holes. Famous examples include the Orenburg shawl (/wiki/Orenburg_shawl) and the wedding ring shawl of Shetland knitting (/w/index.php?title=Shetland_knitting&action=edit&redlink=1) , a shawl so fine that it could be drawn through a wedding ring. [1] (#cite_note-1) Shetland knitted lace became extremely popular in Victorian England when Queen Victoria became a Shetland lace enthusiast. Her enthusiasm resulted i.a. in her choosing knitted lacework for presents; e.g. when in ca. 1897 the Queen gave a lace shawl as a present to American abolitionist Harriet Tubman (/wiki/Harriet_Tubman) . From there, knitting patterns for the shawls were printed in English women's magazines where they were copied in Iceland with single ply wool. Some consider that "true" knitted lace has pattern stitches on both the right and wrong sides, and that knitting with pattern stitches on only one side of the fabric, so that holes are separated by at least two threads, is technically not lace, but "lacy knitting", although this has no historical basis. [2] (#cite_note-2) Eyelet patterns are those in which the holes make up only a small fraction of the fabric and are isolated into clusters (e.g., little rosettes (/wiki/Rosette_(design)) of one hole surrounded by others in a hexagon). At the other extreme, some knitted lace is almost all holes, e.g., faggoting (/wiki/Basic_knitted_fabrics#Faggoting) . Rectangular lace shawl on the needles. White threads ("lifelines") are strung through the pattern every twenty rows and will be removed upon completion. Knitted lace with no bound-off edges is extremely elastic, deforming easily to fit whatever it is draped on. As a consequence, knitted lace garments (/wiki/Clothing) must be blocked (/wiki/Blocking_(knitting)) or "dressed" before use, and tend to stretch over time. Lace can be used for any kind of garment, but is commonly associated with scarves and shawls, or with household items such as curtains, table runners or trim for curtains and towels. Lace items from different regional knitting traditions are often distinguished by their patterns, shape and method, such as Faroese lace shawls (/wiki/Faroese_lace_shawls) which are knit bottom up with center back gusset shaping unlike a more common neck down, triangular shawl. Technique [ edit ] Lace scarf during blocking A hole can be introduced into a knitted fabric by pairing a yarn over (/wiki/Yarn_over) stitch with a nearby (usually adjacent) decrease (/wiki/Decrease_(knitting)) . If the decrease precedes the yarn over, it typically slants right as seen from the right side (e.g., k2tog, not ssk (/wiki/Knitting_abbreviations) ; see knitting abbreviations (/wiki/Knitting_abbreviations) ). If the decrease follows the yarn over, it typically slants left as seen from the right side (e.g., k2tog tbl or ssk, not k2tog). These slants pull the fabric away from the yarn over, opening up the hole. Pairing a yarn over with a decrease (/wiki/Decrease_(knitting)) keeps the stitch count constant. Many beautiful patterns separate the yarn over and decrease stitches, e.g., k2tog, k5, yo. Separating the yarn over from its decrease "tilts" all the intervening stitches towards the decrease. The tilt may form part of the design, e.g., mimicking the veins in a leaf. There are few constraints on positioning the holes, so practically any picture or pattern can be outlined with holes; common motifs include leaves, rosettes, ferns and flowers. To design a simple lace motif, a knitter (/wiki/Knitting) can draw its lines on a piece of knitting graph paper; right-slanting lines should be produced with "k2tog, yo" stitch-pairs (as seen on the right side) whereas left-slanting lines should be produced with "yo, k2tog tbl" (or, equivalently, "yo, ssk" or "yo, skp") stitch pairs (again, as seen on the right side). More sophisticated patterns will change the grain of the fabric to help the design, by separating the yarn overs and decreases (/wiki/Decrease_(knitting)) . It is common for lace knitters to insert a "lifeline", a strand of contrasting yarn threaded through stitches on the needle, at the end of every pattern repeat or after a certain number of rows. This allows the knitter to rip out a controlled number of rows if a mistake is discovered. History and comparison to other laces [ edit ] Knitted lace tablecloth based on the pattern "Lyra" by Herbert Niebling (/wiki/Herbert_Niebling) Lace knitting is generally not as fine as other forms of lace, such as needle lace (/wiki/Needle_lace) or bobbin lace (/wiki/Bobbin_lace) . However, it is better suited for garments, being softer and much faster to produce. References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) Robin Pogrebin. "Where the sky meets the sea: Jennifer Guidi leans into beauty" (http://artdaily.com/index.asp?int_sec=2&int_new=36764#.WLugyIWcFZU) . Art Daily . Retrieved 6 November 2022 . ^ (#cite_ref-2) "See Eunny Knit!: Majoring in Lace: Introduction" (https://web.archive.org/web/20060519172738/http://www.eunnyjang.com/knit/2006/03/majoring_in_lace_introduction_1.html) . www.eunnyjang.com . Archived from the original (http://www.eunnyjang.com/knit/2006/03/majoring_in_lace_introduction_1.html) on 2006-05-19. Further reading [ edit ] (2002) Vogue Knitting: The Ultimate Knitting Book , updated ed., Sixth and Spring Books. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 1-931543-16-X (/wiki/Special:BookSources/1-931543-16-X) (1979) Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Needlework , Reader's Digest Association. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 0-89577-059-8 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-89577-059-8) June Hemmons Hiatt (2012) The Principles of Knitting , Simon and Schuster, pp. 251–253. ISBN (/wiki/ISBN_(identifier)) 978-1-4165-3517-1 (/wiki/Special:BookSources/978-1-4165-3517-1) External links [ edit ] Media related to Knit lace (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Knit_lace) at Wikimedia Commons v t e Knitting (/wiki/Knitting) Tools and materials Knitting needle (/wiki/Knitting_needle) Knitting needle cap (/wiki/Knitting_needle_cap) Needle gauge (/wiki/Hook_gauge) List of yarns for crochet and knitting (/wiki/List_of_yarns_for_crochet_and_knitting) Row counter (/wiki/Row_counter_(hand_knitting)) Stitch holder (/wiki/Stitch_holder) Yarn (/wiki/Yarn) styles Bouclé (/wiki/Boucl%C3%A9) Eyelash (/wiki/Eyelash_yarn) Lopi (/wiki/Lopi_(knitting)) Novelty (/wiki/Novelty_yarns) Variegated (/wiki/Variegated_yarn) Yarn brands Coats Group (/wiki/Coats_Group) Eisaku Noro Company (/wiki/Eisaku_Noro_Company) Kraemer Yarns (/wiki/Kraemer_Textiles_Inc.) 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Fashion style This article is written like a personal reflection, personal essay, or argumentative essay (/wiki/Wikipedia:What_Wikipedia_is_not#Wikipedia_is_not_a_publisher_of_original_thought) that states a Wikipedia editor's personal feelings or presents an original argument about a topic. Please help improve it (https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Boho-chic&action=edit) by rewriting it in an encyclopedic style (/wiki/Wikipedia:Writing_better_articles#Information_style_and_tone) . ( April 2020 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) This article or section possibly contains synthesis of material (/wiki/Wikipedia:No_original_research#Synthesis_of_published_material) which does not verifiably mention (/wiki/Wikipedia:Verifiability) or relate (/wiki/Wikipedia:Content_removal#Irrelevant_information) to the main topic. Relevant discussion may be found on the talk page (/wiki/Talk:Boho-chic##) . ( April 2020 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this message (/wiki/Help:Maintenance_template_removal) ) Short floaty skirt, 2005 Boho-chic is a style of fashion (/wiki/Fashion) drawing on various bohemian (/wiki/Bohemianism) and hippie (/wiki/Hippie) influences, which, at its height in late 2005 was associated particularly with actress Sienna Miller (/wiki/Sienna_Miller) , model Kate Moss (/wiki/Kate_Moss) in the United Kingdom and actress/businesswoman Mary-Kate Olsen (/wiki/Mary-Kate_Olsen) in the United States. It has been seen since the early 1990s and, although appearing to wane from time to time, has repeatedly re-surfaced in varying guises. Many elements of boho-chic became popular in the late 1960s and some date back much further, being associated, for example, with pre-Raphaelite (/wiki/Pre-Raphaelite) women of the mid-to-late 19th century. Luxe grunge (also known as luxe bohemian ) may be a synonym; [1] (#cite_note-1) a chicer (/wiki/Chic) updated grunge (/wiki/Grunge) -boho collection with an unkempt approach to wardrobe. First motivated by Seattle (/wiki/Seattle) 's groundbreaking rock scene in the 1990s – the modern update contains all the mainstays of yesterday's grunge (flannel, plaid, layers and leg warmers) alongside today's sophisticated pieces, including capes, shawls and jackets. [2] (#cite_note-2) Grunge elements featured strongly in fashion collections in Autumn 2006, including styles referred to "cocktail grunge" and "modern goth (/wiki/Gothic_fashion) ". [3] (#cite_note-3) Lisa Armstrong (/wiki/Lisa_Armstrong_(writer)) , fashion editor of the London Times , referred to Patrick Lichfield (/wiki/Patrick_Lichfield) 's iconic 1969 photograph of Talitha Getty (/wiki/Talitha_Getty) on a Marrakesh roof-top as "typif[ying] the luxe bohemian look" [4] (#cite_note-4) Lexicography [ edit ] Sherlock Holmes (/wiki/Sherlock_Holmes) "upon the sofa in a purple dressing gown" in The Adventure of the Blue Carbuncle (/wiki/The_Adventure_of_the_Blue_Carbuncle) (Illustration by Sidney Paget, Strand Magazine , 1891) "Boho" [ edit ] "BoHo" is a shortened form of bohemian (/wiki/Bohemian_style) , self descriptive of the style. Virginia Nicholson (granddaughter of Vanessa Bell (/wiki/Vanessa_Bell) , one of the pivotal figures of the unconventional, but influential " Bloomsbury Group (/wiki/Bloomsbury_Group) " in the first half of the 20th century) has described it as a "curious slippery adjective". [5] (#cite_note-5) Although the original Bohemians (/wiki/Bohemia) were inhabitants of central Europe, the term has, as Nicholson noted, "attached itself to individuals as disparate as Shakespeare (/wiki/William_Shakespeare) and Sherlock Holmes (/wiki/Sherlock_Holmes) ". The writer and historian A. N. Wilson (/wiki/A._N._Wilson) remarked that, "in his dress-sense as in much else", Winston Churchill (/wiki/Winston_Churchill) was "pre- First World War (/wiki/First_World_War) Bohemian (/wiki/Bohemianism) ", his unbleached linen (/wiki/Linen) suit causing surprise when he arrived in Canada in 1943. [6] (#cite_note-6) In Arthur Conan Doyle (/wiki/Arthur_Conan_Doyle) 's first short story about Holmes for The Strand , Doctor Watson (/wiki/Doctor_Watson) noted that the detective "loathed every form of society with his whole Bohemian soul" and "remained in our lodgings in Baker-street, buried among his old books and alternating from week to week between cocaine and ambition..". [7] (#cite_note-7) Designer Savannah Miller (/wiki/Savannah_Miller) , elder sister of actress Sienna Miller, described a "real bohemian" as "someone who has the ability to appreciate beauty on a deep level, is a profound romantic, doesn't know any limits, whose world is their own creation, rather than living in a box". [8] (#cite_note-8) "Chic" [ edit ] " Chic (/wiki/Chic) " was borrowed from French in the late 19th century and has come to mean stylish or elegant (/wiki/Elegance) . Elements [ edit ] Furry gilet (/wiki/Gilet) , Autumn 2005 The boho look, which owed much to the hippie (/wiki/Hippie) styles that developed in the middle to late 1960s, became especially popular after Sienna Miller (/wiki/Sienna_Miller) 's appearance at the Glastonbury Festival (/wiki/Glastonbury_Festival) in 2004, [9] (#cite_note-9) although some of its features were apparent from photographs of her taken in October 2003 [10] (#cite_note-10) and of others living in or around the postal district of W10 ( North Kensington (/wiki/North_Kensington) ), an area of London associated with bohemian culture since the mid-1950s. By the spring of 2005, boho was almost ubiquitous in parts of London and was invading stores in almost every British high street. [11] (#cite_note-11) Its adherents were sometimes referred to as "Siennas", [12] (#cite_note-12) this eponym even being applied to Miller herself: "Sienna's Sienna-ishness", as Jessica Brinton put it in the Sunday Times in 2007. [13] (#cite_note-13) Features included "floaty" skirts (notably long white ones), furry gilets (/wiki/Gilet) , embroidered tunics, cropped jackets, large faux-coin belts, sheepskin ( UGG (/wiki/UGG_Australia) ) boots and cowboy boots (/wiki/Cowboy_boot) , baggy cardigans and " hobo bags (/wiki/Hobo_bag) ". Demand was so great that there were allegations the following year of some sub-contractors' having used cheap child labour in India (/wiki/India) for zari (/wiki/Zari) embroidery and beading (/wiki/Beadwork) . [14] (#cite_note-14) Footless tights (/wiki/Tights) or " leggings (/wiki/Leggings) ", of which Miller was a proponent, were a contributory factor in the halving of sales of stockings (/wiki/Stockings) in Britain between 2003 and 2007. [15] (#cite_note-15) Trends [ edit ] Sienna Miller (/wiki/Sienna_Miller) at the London premiere of Factory Girl (/wiki/Factory_Girl_(2006_film)) , 2007 Sienna Miller in the mid 2000s [ edit ] Sienna Miller's relationship with – and, for a time, engagement (/wiki/Engagement) to – actor Jude Law (/wiki/Jude_Law) , after they had starred together in the 2004 film, Alfie (/wiki/Alfie_(2004_film)) , kept both her and her style of dress [16] (#cite_note-16) in the media headlines during 2004–05. In December 2004, Vogue (/wiki/Vogue_(magazine)) featured Miller on its front cover and described her as "the girl of the year". [17] (#cite_note-autogenerated1-17) Later, the ending of her relationship with Law (which resumed temporarily in 2009–10) seemed to signal that boho too was past its peak. In fact, as early as May 2005 the Sunday Times Style magazine had declared that "overexposed" white peasant skirts were "going down" [18] (#cite_note-18) and had advised adherents of boho to "update your boho mojo (/wiki/Mojo_(African_American_culture)) " by mixing the look with metallic items (anticipating so-called " boho-rock (#Boho-rock_and_gothic) " in 2006) or with layers. [19] (#cite_note-autogenerated7-19) By the end of 2005, Miller herself, who claimed later that her boho look was not very original – "I think I'd just come back from traveling or something" [20] (#cite_note-autogenerated5-20) – had adopted other styles of dress and her shorter, bobbed hairstyle (/wiki/Bob_cut) – ironically a feature of bohemian fashion in the quarter century before World War II (/wiki/World_War_II) – helped to define a new trend in 2007. [21] (#cite_note-21) She was quoted in Vogue as saying "no more boho chic ... I feel less hippie. I just don't want to wear anything floaty or coin-belty ever again. No more gilets ...". [22] (#cite_note-22) Even so, in 2008, Miller reflected that It was a strange social experiment, to be responsible for all that. It made me self-conscious, which, inherently, I'm not. People would say, "I'm sick of boho", and now I stand up and say, "But I liked those clothes – it's not my fault that they were copied, you wore them and now you're sick of them. Also, I did not start the trend." [20] (#cite_note-autogenerated5-20) 2007–08: folk, "diluted", and Balearic boho [ edit ] In the autumn of 2006, The Times' style director Tina Gaudoin observed that "when the women's wear buyer at M[arks] & S[pencer] is quoted saying 'boho is over', you know the trend is well and truly six foot under." [23] (#cite_note-23) Even so, the so-called " folk (/wiki/Folk_art) " look of spring 2007, with its smock tops and flounce hemmed dresses, owed much to boho-chic, while embracing such trends as the re-emergence of the mini-dress (/wiki/Miniskirt) : as the Sunday Times put it, "if you are still bemoaning the passing of the gypsy look, then the folk trend could be your saving grace". [24] (#cite_note-autogenerated4-24) The Sunday Times cited the 1960s singer Mary Hopkin (/wiki/Mary_Hopkin) as influencing the use of bandannas (/wiki/Bandanna) , [24] (#cite_note-autogenerated4-24) while, around the same time, Sienna Miller's appearance as 1960s "starlet" Edie Sedgwick (/wiki/Edie_Sedgwick) in the film Factory Girl (/wiki/Factory_Girl_(2006_film)) positioned her once more as a bohemian style icon. London Lite observed in May 2007 that: You may baulk at the very word, but this summer's style has definite nuances of boho – albeit in a very diluted form. Sienna Miller's gipsy skirt brigade somehow didn't finish this feminine trend off for good, and some of the less contrived ingredients – embroidery, leather, gentle frills – are back Mischa Barton (/wiki/Mischa_Barton) in 2006 Noting that "this time it's much more about a deconstructed, looser version of English Country Garden style", London Lite recalled the early 1970s designs of Laura Ashley (/wiki/Laura_Ashley) – "all folds of floral cotton and centre partings". [25] (#cite_note-autogenerated3-25) Actresses Mischa Barton (/wiki/Mischa_Barton) and Milla Jovovich (/wiki/Milla_Jovovich) were cited as exponents of this look, while Jade Jagger (/wiki/Jade_Jagger) (daughter of Sir Mick Jagger (/wiki/Mick_Jagger) , of the Rolling Stones (/wiki/Rolling_Stones) , and Bianca Jagger (/wiki/Bianca_Jagger) ) was said to be promoting her own style of " Balearic (/wiki/Balearic_Islands) boho" on the Mediterranean (/wiki/Mediterranean) island of Ibiza (/wiki/Ibiza) , [25] (#cite_note-autogenerated3-25) a long-time haven for beatniks (/wiki/Beatniks) and hippies who colonised the village of Sant Carles (/wiki/Santa_Eul%C3%A0ria_des_Riu) in the 1960s. [26] (#cite_note-26) The Tatler wrote of Jagger – "the original 'Boho'" – that she "lives, breathes and creates a certain kind of contemporary "bohemian" chic", although Jagger herself claimed to be "a little wary of the word "bohemian"", describing her approach as "daring to mix ... combining things that are unexpected". [27] (#cite_note-27) Jagger modelled for designer Matthew Williamson (/wiki/Matthew_Williamson) , whose style has been described as combining "Ibiza glamour" with "London cool". [28] (#cite_note-28) Sienna Miller has written that, when she first met Williamson, whose muse (/wiki/Muse) she became, [29] (#cite_note-29) in her mother's kitchen in 2001 she had a magazine on the table with Jade Jagger wearing the most beautiful bright dress I had ever seen. I remember thinking it was my dream dress. I now feel that way about almost every dress of Matthew's I have worn". [30] (#cite_note-30) In 2011 "destination dressing" for Ibiza was still deemed to "embrace boho chic with a hint of understated glamour" [31] (#cite_note-31) When, in August 2007, Sienna and Savannah Miller launched their own fashion label, Twenty8Twelve (so-called after Sienna's birthday, 28 December), one commentator referred to Sienna's "own brand of Notting Hillbilly (/wiki/Notting_Hill) chic" (a reference to London W10) and remarked that, "with [her] love of all things boho, it's unsurprising to see a thread of louche, folksy styling running through the line". [32] (#cite_note-autogenerated2-32) However, the same writer observed wryly that "quite how many French peasants hoed fields in printed smocks is undocumented" and felt that one particular shirt-dress was "a little too reminiscent of Nancy (/wiki/Nancy_(Oliver_Twist)) in Oliver Twist (/wiki/Oliver_Twist) ". [32] (#cite_note-autogenerated2-32) The following year, the Sunday Times , noting that one in two Americans and one in five Britons were reportedly sporting tattoos (/wiki/Tattoo) , observed that Miller "complete[d] her luxe-layabout look with a cluster of stars on her silken shoulder"; [33] (#cite_note-33) that she had also a tattoo of a bluebird, the subject of both a poem by Charles Bukowski (/wiki/Charles_Bukowski) and a drawing by Edie Sedgwick; and that Kate Moss displayed "two swallows diving into her buttock crack". Recession of 2008–10: broderie , exotic lingerie, 70s glam/beatnik [ edit ] Zooey Deschanel (/wiki/Zooey_Deschanel) in 2008 In 2008 fashion consultant Gok Wan (/wiki/Gok_Wan) cited a broderie anglaise (/wiki/Broderie_anglaise) top worn by Nadine Coyle (/wiki/Nadine_Coyle) of the group Girls Aloud (/wiki/Girls_Aloud) as evidence that "the folk/boho look is so hot for summer", [34] (#cite_note-34) while Marks & Spencer (/wiki/Marks_%26_Spencer) employed the headline " Bohemian Rhapsody (/wiki/Bohemian_Rhapsody) " to summarise its summer range, which owed much to the colours and patterns of the early 1970s. [35] (#cite_note-35) At the beginning of June that year fashion writer Carrie Gorman announced that "this week, shopping is about going bright and bold with a boho feel", citing, among other trends, multi-coloured tank tops (/wiki/Sleeveless_shirt) ("or dress, according to your height") by Harlow, said to be the favorite label of American actress Rachel Bilson (/wiki/Rachel_Bilson) . [36] (#cite_note-36) Bilson has cited Kate Moss and actress Diane Keaton (/wiki/Diane_Keaton) as among her stylistic influences; [37] (#cite_note-37) striped multi-colored panties with brodierie edging were a feature of her photographic shoot for Stuff (/wiki/Stuff_(magazine)) magazine in 2004. [38] (#cite_note-38) Another, rather distinctive, exponent of the " vintage (/wiki/Vintage_clothing) " look was actress and singer Zooey Deschanel (/wiki/Zooey_Deschanel) , who, in June 2008, appeared on the front cover of the magazine BlackBook (/wiki/BlackBook_Magazine) in a black lace-edged swimsuit (/wiki/Swimsuit) . [39] (#cite_note-39) In the same year, a journalist wrote of Deschanel: ... she's the antistarlet ... She tiptoes in looking like a graceful version of boho-chic 29-year-olds found everywhere from Brooklyn to Silver Lake, with an Obama (/wiki/Barack_Obama) [Democratic Presidential candidate] button on her vintage coat and [t]he New Yorker (/wiki/The_New_Yorker) rolled up in her pocket... [40] (#cite_note-40) Deschanel's "kooky" style [41] (#cite_note-41) subsequently found a popular outlet as Los Angeles teacher Jess Day, whom she played in the Fox TV (/wiki/Fox_TV) sitcom, New Girl (/wiki/New_Girl_(TV_series)) (2011–2018). Jess's fashion preferences, including some striking brassières in a range of colours, [42] (#cite_note-42) attracted much interest, while, around the same time, Anastasia (Ana) Steel's tastes in E. L. James (/wiki/E._L._James) ' best-selling erotic novel Fifty Shades of Grey (/wiki/Fifty_Shades_of_Grey) (2011) were thought to have assisted sales of exotic lingerie (/wiki/Lingerie) . [43] (#cite_note-43) Blue was a favoured color ( Natalie Portman (/wiki/Natalie_Portman) as Dr. Emma Kurtzman was shown dressing hastily for work in a lacy blue bra in the 2011 film, No Strings Attached (/wiki/No_Strings_Attached_(2011_film)) ) and was Ana's own preference: "I'm in the pale blue lacy perfect-fit bra. Thank heavens ". [44] (#cite_note-44) In 2010, the winning German entry for the Eurovision Song Contest (/wiki/Eurovision_Song_Contest_2010) proclaimed, "I even did my hair for you/I bought new underwear, they're blue" ( Satellite (/wiki/Satellite_(Lena_Meyer-Landrut_song)) , sung by Lena (/wiki/Lena_Meyer-Landrut) ). In 2013 X Factor (/wiki/The_X_Factor) contestant Diana Vickers (/wiki/Diana_Vickers) wore blue panties (with a short white top bearing the legend, "LOST MY MIND") for a widely publicised photoshoot for the magazine FHM (/wiki/FHM) . [45] (#cite_note-45) Although boho once again appeared to be on the wane by 2009, elements of it were clearly in evidence in collections for spring and summer 2010. Fashion Union advertised "spring's new bohemian trend in full bloom" and "hippie chic tops on loveworn denims", [46] (#cite_note-46) while Avon (/wiki/Avon_Products) introduced a perfumed spray called "Boho Chic". Monsoon (/wiki/Monsoon_Stores_Ltd) , founded in 1973 and still described by the Sunday Times in 2010 as "the boho chic fashion retailer", saw its pre-tax profits rise dramatically during the recession (/wiki/Late-2000s_recession) of the late noughties: from £3.6 million in 2008 to £32.6 million in the year to August 2009. [47] (#cite_note-47) Women wearing bohemian clothing In 2010 the Sunday Times anticipated that the medieval head chain (/wiki/Mail_(armour)) – "a step on from the hippie head band" – would be a feature of that year's festival circuit, "instantly adding summer bohemia to your look". Socialite Nicole Richie (/wiki/Nicole_Richie) 's "beatnik/ disco-glam (/wiki/Glam_rock) mash-up" was cited as an example of this trend, while Peaches Geldof (/wiki/Peaches_Geldof) , model and daughter of rock musician Bob Geldof (/wiki/Bob_Geldof) , was identified as another who had adopted the look. [48] (#cite_note-48) Later in the year the Sunday Times lauded the " haute hippie, bohemian splendour and punked up classics" that were putting "a modern spin on 1970s style". These included a cream crochet (/wiki/Crochet) dress by Marc Jacobs (/wiki/Marc_Jacobs) (" haute hippie") and a devoré (/wiki/Devor%C3%A9) dress and fringed scarf (/wiki/Scarf) by Pucci (/wiki/Emilio_Pucci) ("boho splendour"). [49] (#cite_note-49) By the late autumn of 2010 The Times noted the desirability in the UK of fake fur (/wiki/Fake_fur) ("Recession chic lets Britain go full pelt for the fake fur"), with Marks & Spencer and Sainsbury's (/wiki/Sainsbury%27s) TU retailing bestselling coats at a time of economic stringency. According to Lisa Armstrong (/wiki/Lisa_Armstrong_(writer)) , "everyone from Kate Moss to Alexa Chung (/wiki/Alexa_Chung) , Fearne Cotton (/wiki/Fearne_Cotton) to Kylie (/wiki/Kylie_Minogue) [Minogue], Rachel Bilson and Taylor Momsen (/wiki/Taylor_Momsen) to Carine Roitfeld (/wiki/Carine_Roitfeld) ha[d] been swaddling themselves in exotic cat prints with varying degrees of success". [50] (#cite_note-The_Times,_27_November_2010-50) Armstrong speculated also that the "Impossible Boot", based on a 1930s snow boot and so-called by its designer Penelope Chilvers because it had "proved a headache to make", might, despite its relatively high cost (£325–375), displace the Ugg, [50] (#cite_note-The_Times,_27_November_2010-50) which had been a durable boho accessory. As Armstrong put it wrily, the Impossible was "perfect for après-ski (/wiki/Apr%C3%A8s-ski) " in the fashionably bohemian London districts of Primrose Hill (/wiki/Primrose_Hill) or Dalston (/wiki/Dalston) . Children's fashion [ edit ] Many parents have also embraced the Boho Chic trends and elements to create and purchase apparel for their children. This particular trend is inspired by the casual American fashion of the 1960s, but as the counterculture included the influences of earlier time periods in its eclectic embrace of style and personal values, it often includes hints of the Victorian, a nod to the fabrics and details of the 1940s, or a homage to the intellectuals of the 1950s. [51] (#cite_note-51) Influence and exponents [ edit ] Kate Moss and Sienna Miller [ edit ] Many, including actress Lindsay Lohan (/wiki/Lindsay_Lohan) , [52] (#cite_note-52) attributed the boho look to supermodel Kate Moss (/wiki/Kate_Moss) (who in 1997 had been associated, through an advertising campaign for Calvin Klein (/wiki/Calvin_Klein) , with the so-called " heroin chic (/wiki/Heroin_chic) " or " waif (/wiki/Waif) " look). In fact the Australian journalist Laura Demasi used the term "boho-chic" as early as October 2002 with reference to Moss and Jade Jagger. In April 2004, the British-born fashion writer Plum Sykes (/wiki/Plum_Sykes) was quoted as saying of a lynx mini-top, "Very cool, very bohemian, very Kate Moss–y"; [53] (#cite_note-53) and in 2006 Times fashion editor Lisa Armstrong described a plaited leather belt of the previous year as a "Boho 'Kate' belt". [54] (#cite_note-54) Nevertheless, it was the apparently unaffected ease with which Sienna Miller (dubbed by some as the "new Kate Moss" [55] (#cite_note-55) ) carried off the look that brought it into the mainstream: even in advertisements for Chloé (/wiki/Chlo%C3%A9) early in 2005 Miller was shown as if casually shopping, while she told Vogue that she had a laid-back approach to grooming, including cutting her own hair. [17] (#cite_note-autogenerated1-17) Established in 1993, the UK clothing label 'OVERIDER' described as 'the brand of a free spirit' and favoured for its understated, effortless, bohemian style exemplifies the 2014 Boho-chic trend. In 2008 the Sunday Times applied the term "real chic" to a group of "the chicest celebrities", including Miller and actresses Julie Christie (/wiki/Julie_Christie) and Marion Cotillard (/wiki/Marion_Cotillard) , who "handle the glare of fame with a large dose of reality", Miller being described as "a professional free spirit who, annoyingly, seems to have more fun than anyone else". [56] (#cite_note-56) In that year, Miller's appearance as the poet Dylan Thomas (/wiki/Dylan_Thomas) 's wife, Caitlin Macnamara (/wiki/Caitlin_Macnamara) in the film The Edge of Love (/wiki/The_Edge_of_Love) caused one journalist to refer to "a new romantic style: woe-ho chic" [57] (#cite_note-57) This referred to the austerity (/wiki/Austerity) clothing of the 1940s, worn also in the film by Keira Knightley (/wiki/Keira_Knightley) : A beguillingly shambolic Sienna is seen sobbing on the beach busting a wartime make-do-and-mend look: boiled-wool cardie over flowery tea dress over folded-down wellies over long woolly socks. [58] (#cite_note-58) One reviewer observed of Miller's role that "Caitlin is meant to be a boho girl and free spirit, which is a posh way of saying she's a drunk who is promiscuous". [59] (#cite_note-59) Rachel Zoe [ edit ] American celebrity stylist Rachel Zoe (/wiki/Rachel_Zoe) has been credited as helping to popularise boho style in the 2000s. [60] (#cite_note-60) [61] (#cite_note-:0-61) Writing in Guardian , Lauren Cochrane wrote, that Zoe "was one of the first stylists to put the vintage "look" on the red carpet." [61] (#cite_note-:0-61) A retrospective piece published in Grazia in 2000 said of Zoe: "Styling her clients not just for the red carpet but for pap-bait Starbucks runs, she was the architect of the boho-meets-rock chic look that came to define a new breed of Hollywood ‘it’-girls who were as adept at setting trends as they were at causing trouble: Nicole Richie, Lindsay Lohan, Mischa Barton exemplified the moment (pre their The Row paring-down, the Olsens - not Zoe clients - were working a similar look)." [62] (#cite_note-:1-62) The look championed by Zoe was exemplified by oversized accessories such as sunglasses [63] (#cite_note-63) and handbags paired with loose-fitting tops and dresses. [62] (#cite_note-:1-62) Appeal and impact [ edit ] The cross-generational appeal of boho influenced, among other things, the ranges that brought about a revival in the fortunes of Marks and Spencer (/wiki/Marks_and_Spencer) in 2005–06. An illustration of this, just as boho as such appeared to near its end, was M&S's use of 1960s' icon Twiggy (/wiki/Twiggy) and younger models such as Laura Bailey (/wiki/Laura_Bailey_(model)) ("the natural choice for the season's bohemian chic" [64] (#cite_note-64) ) for a major advertising campaign in late 2005. In 2006 the Sunday Times identified fur gilets and "ugg-a-likes" as preferred winter wear for middle-aged women whom it described as the " botox (/wiki/Botulin_toxin) -and-better-sex-after-40 brigade". [65] (#cite_note-autogenerated6-65) Exemplars [ edit ] Notwithstanding an early tendency to be associated with photographic spreads for " lads' magazines (/wiki/List_of_men%27s_magazines) ") Rachel Stevens (/wiki/Rachel_Stevens) [66] (#cite_note-66) were both held up in the mid-noughties as exemplars of boho. So, a few years later, were Diana Vickers and another teenaged singer, Pixie Lott (/wiki/Pixie_Lott) . A fringe suede leather handbag. In 2007 London Lite contrasted the "gay glamour" of American actress Goldie Hawn (/wiki/Goldie_Hawn) with the "more relaxed, boho look" of her daughter, actress Kate Hudson (/wiki/Kate_Hudson) , noting that "keeping the colours neutral, [Hudson]'s careful not to break any style rules, with classy knitwear and good-quality accessories". [67] (#cite_note-67) Another well-judged exponent of boho, in the second series of ITV's Murder in Suburbia (/wiki/Murder_in_Suburbia) (2005), was Detective Sergeant Emma Scribbins, the character played by Lisa Faulkner (/wiki/Lisa_Faulkner) . Fast fashion [ edit ] The impact of boho illustrated certain broader trends in what Shane Watson referred to as "the way we dress now": [68] (#cite_note-autogenerated9-68) that fashion was increasingly being dictated, not by the main houses, but what Watson called "the triple-F crowd" (the F referring to the f's in "famous and fashion-forward"), of which Kate Moss, Lindsay Lohan and Sienna Miller were exemplars. Once they had spotted new fashions, young women were not prepared to wait a season for them to become available and, consequently, the familiar boundaries between summer wear and that for autumn and winter were becoming blurred. As Jane Shepherdson (/wiki/Jane_Shepherdson) , brand director of the clothing chain Topshop (/wiki/Topshop) , put it, "when Sienna wore that gilet, we had to pull them forward fast ... She was doing boho in the autumn, and we were expecting it to be a trend for the following spring. Girls see it and they want it immediately". [68] (#cite_note-autogenerated9-68) The practice of meeting such demand, pioneered by the Spanish firm Zara (/wiki/Zara_(clothing)) , and of which Shepherdson, until she left Topshop in 2006, was the leading British proponent, [69] (#cite_note-69) became known as " fast fashion (/wiki/Fast_fashion) ". [70] (#cite_note-70) Boho-rock and gothic [ edit ] Theda Bara (/wiki/Theda_Bara) (1885–1955) By Midsummer 2006, the Sunday Times had discerned a trend that fused aspects of boho-chic with " heavy metal (/wiki/Heavy_metal_music) attitude": "It's about wearing a studded leather jacket with a flimsy chiffon number, stomping about town in biker boots ... and wearing anything with a skull on it". [71] (#cite_note-71) The newspaper referred to this style, which had been a feature of collections for Autumn 2006 by Christian Dior (/wiki/Christian_Dior) and John Galliano (/wiki/John_Galliano) , as "boho-rock" and noted that both Sienna Miller and Kate Moss had adopted it. " Gothic (/wiki/Gothic_fashion) rock" [72] (#cite_note-72) had similar connotations. A look described by the Sunday Times in Autumn 2006 as "modern goth" was a more stylised version, exuding a " bondage (/wiki/Bondage_(BDSM)) vibe" and contrasting "soft, light fabrics ... with the harsh sleekness of patent [leather]". [73] (#cite_note-73) The gothic look was in vogue again in the autumn of 2007, a sleeker "dark Victorian (/wiki/Victorian_fashion) style" being associated with, among others, Sienna Miller, twin actresses Mary-Kate (/wiki/Mary-Kate_Olsen) and Ashley Olsen (/wiki/Ashley_Olsen) (through their clothing label, The Row), the Australian model Gemma Ward (/wiki/Gemma_Ward) [74] (#cite_note-74) and the rising Ukrainian singer Mika Newton (/wiki/Mika_Newton) (the latter notably in photographs associated with her début album of 2005, Anomaliya ). Pre-Raphaelites [ edit ] Pre-Raphaelite (/wiki/Pre-Raphaelite) muse: Sophie Gray (/wiki/Sophie_Gray) by John Everett Millais (/wiki/John_Everett_Millais) , 1857 Florence Welch [ edit ] "In 2009 the rise of British singer Florence Welch (/wiki/Florence_Welch) (as Florence + the Machine) coincided with the publication of Franny Moyle (/wiki/Franny_Moyle) 's study of the private lives of the Pre-Raphaelite (/wiki/Pre-Raphaelite) Brotherhood of the mid-19th century ( Desperate Romantics (/wiki/Desperate_Romantics) , 2009) and its dramatisation by BBC television. Welch has cited as her stylistic icons singer Marianne Faithfull (/wiki/Marianne_Faithfull) , who had been closely associated with the Rolling Stones (/wiki/Rolling_Stones) in the 1960s, [75] (#cite_note-75) and her former English teacher (/wiki/English_language) who used to "come to school in crushed- velvet (/wiki/Velvet) gowns like a medieval maiden [76] (#cite_note-76) However, her stage image called to mind the pre-Raphaelite muses (/wiki/Muses) [77] (#cite_note-77) who, in certain respects, had anticipated the hippie styles of a century later. [78] (#cite_note-78) Indeed, Welch herself declared her attraction to "doomed romantic heroines, like Tennyson (/wiki/Alfred_Tennyson) 's [poem] The Lady of Shalott (/wiki/The_Lady_of_Shalott) " [79] (#cite_note-79) The cover of Welch's second album Ceremonials (/wiki/Ceremonials) (2011) drew very clearly on later Pre-Raphaelite images. [80] (#cite_note-80) Reflecting on Welch's broader influence, one rock journalist noted in 2010 that "even Cheryl Cole (/wiki/Cheryl_Cole) [of Girls Aloud and an X Factor judge] has gone gothic princess on her ... single, " Promise This (/wiki/Promise_This) ", and she's looking very Florence in the video (/wiki/Pop_video) , all black leotards (/wiki/Leotard) and raggedy tutus (/wiki/Ballet_tutu) ". [81] (#cite_note-81) Karen Elson (/wiki/Karen_Elson) in June 2010 Karen Elson [ edit ] Other redheads whose personal style combined elegance with boho and gothic features were English model Lily Cole (/wiki/Lily_Cole) and model/singer Karen Elson (/wiki/Karen_Elson) . Elson told a Times journalist that she had always been "the weird looking one" in modelling circles and remarked of herself and her then husband Jack White (/wiki/Jack_White_(musician)) of the rock duo White Stripes (/wiki/White_Stripes) that "there's going to be a point when our children view us as the Addams Family (/wiki/Addams_Family) ". [82] (#cite_note-82) (In the 1960s incarnation of The Addams Family (/wiki/The_Addams_Family_(1964_TV_series)) for ABC (/wiki/American_Broadcasting_Company) television, based on the characters created by Charles Addams (/wiki/Charles_Addams) for The New Yorker (/wiki/The_New_Yorker) in 1938, Carolyn Jones (/wiki/Carolyn_Jones) had created a gothic icon with her portrayal of Morticia Addams (/wiki/Morticia_Addams) .) Like Welch, Elson exuded pre-Raphaelite features, though a marked gothic strain was also apparent when, as a singer on stage in 2009, she wore a long salmon dress with black lace edging. Similarly, her lingerie (/wiki/Lingerie) portfolio that year for Agent Provocateur (/wiki/Agent_Provocateur_(lingerie)) combined gothic and boho-rock features, [83] (#cite_note-83) there being, for example, a certain resonance between a black and white brassiere and panties set that formed part of that collection and the black swimsuit in which Zooey Deschanel was photographed in 2008. [84] (#cite_note-84) Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge [ edit ] The Duchess of Cambridge (/wiki/Catherine,_Duchess_of_Cambridge) , in Alexander McQueen (/wiki/Alexander_McQueen_(brand)) dress by Sarah Burton (/wiki/Sarah_Burton) , with Prince William, Duke of Cambridge (/wiki/Prince_William,_Duke_of_Cambridge) on their wedding day, 2011 In 2011 some detected a pre-Raphaelite line to the Alexander McQueen (/wiki/Alexander_McQueen) dress, designed by Sarah Burton (/wiki/Sarah_Burton) , for Catherine Middleton (/wiki/Catherine,_Duchess_of_Cambridge) 's wedding (/wiki/Wedding_of_Prince_William_and_Catherine_Middleton) to Prince William, Duke of Cambridge (/wiki/Prince_William,_Duke_of_Cambridge) , [85] (#cite_note-85) Middleton's somewhat medieval headdress called to mind images from paintings by such later pre-Raphaelites as John Waterhouse and Edward Burne-Jones (/wiki/Edward_Burne-Jones) , [86] (#cite_note-86) the overall impression being especially apparent in a side-on double page photograph of the couple by Max Mumby (/w/index.php?title=Max_Mumby&action=edit&redlink=1) on the cover of the following day's edition of the London Times . [87] (#cite_note-87) Terminology [ edit ] In advance of Glastonbury 2004, the Sunday Times coined the term "festival chic", for a style with some similarities to boho. [88] (#cite_note-88) It subsequently labelled a photographic spread of Sienna Miller, Lauren Bailey, Erin O'Connor (/wiki/Erin_O%27Connor) and other muses of Matthew Williamson as "boho babes", [89] (#cite_note-89) advised its readers to "think art-school chic" by adopting layers of clashing colours [19] (#cite_note-autogenerated7-19) and, in 2006, noted that "last year's boho babe" had become "this year's boho-rock chick". [90] (#cite_note-90) Almost an extension of "festival chic", the Telegraph coined the term "foho" to describe the evolution of the boho style in the summer of 2007. [91] (#cite_note-91) According to the newspaper, this look, which took its influence from both boho style and "the heavy influence of folk culture", had been seen on the likes of Sienna Miller and Kate Moss. The London Evening Standard referred to "hippie chic" (a term used in the 1990s with reference to the velvet kaftans (/wiki/Kaftan) created by Tom Ford (/wiki/Tom_Ford) for the Italian house of Gucci (/wiki/Gucci) ) in a feature about "gypsy queens", [92] (#cite_note-92) while the Sunday Times , reflecting on what "the fashion world called ... boho chic", referred to Sienna Miller's having created "the retro hippie look that swept Britain's high streets". [93] (#cite_note-93) In 2007 London Lite hailed the return of "hippy, hippy chic" [94] (#cite_note-94) and, as noted, Fashion Union marketed "hippie chic" tops in 2010. "Boho-by-default" was an unflattering description used by Lisa Armstrong to describe the style of women ("gargoyles" as opposed to "summer goddesses") who, for summer wear, "drag the same greying, crumpled boho-by-default mess out of storage every year". [95] (#cite_note-95) Morocco and Talitha Getty [ edit ] In 2006, the Sunday Times described the Moroccan (/wiki/Morocco) resort and seaport of Essaouira (/wiki/Essaouira) as the "boho/barefoot-chic beach" because of its association with fashionable "Euro aesthetes with their Talitha Getty-esque kaftans". [65] (#cite_note-autogenerated6-65) The latter was a reference to an iconic photograph of Talitha Pol (/wiki/Talitha_Getty) , wife of John Paul Getty (/wiki/Paul_Getty) , that was taken by Patrick Lichfield (/wiki/Patrick_Anson,_5th_Earl_of_Lichfield) in Marrakesh (/wiki/Marrakesh) in 1969. This image was described by Lisa Armstrong as "typif[ying] the luxe bohemian look". [96] (#cite_note-96) Anticipating Glastonbury 2005, Hedley Freeman in the Guardian had recommended the wearing of headscarves to achieve "Talitha Getty chic". [97] (#cite_note-97) Related trends [ edit ] Karlie Kloss (/wiki/Karlie_Kloss) poses on the runway at the Anna Sui (/wiki/Anna_Sui) show in September 2011. Olsen twins and American bobo [ edit ] In the United States, Mary-Kate (/wiki/Mary-Kate_Olsen) and Ashley Olsen (/wiki/Ashley_Olsen) , especially the former, were credited with a "homeless" look, first identified as such in Greenwich Village (/wiki/Greenwich_Village) , New York in late 2004, that had many "boho" features (large sunglasses, flowing skirts, boots and loose jumpers). This was sometimes referred to as "ashcan chic". [98] (#cite_note-98) The term, "bobo chic" (also known as " hobo (/wiki/Hobo) -grunge", [99] (#cite_note-99) " heroin chic (/wiki/Heroin_chic) " or "luxe grunge"), had similar connotations, "bobo" (or "BoBo") being a contraction of " bourgeois (/wiki/Bourgeoisie) " and "bohemian" coined by New York Times columnist David Brooks (/wiki/David_Brooks_(journalist)) in his book, Bobos in Paradise (/wiki/Bobos_in_Paradise) (2000). Bobo chic was associated in particular with punks (/wiki/Punk_subculture) in the SoHo (/wiki/SoHo) area of Lower Manhattan (/wiki/Lower_Manhattan) , to the south of Greenwich Village. It was described by a student fashion writer as "paying to look poor" and having been "made popular by silver screen stars who all look like they got dressed in the dark like the Olsen twins, Kirsten Dunst (/wiki/Kirsten_Dunst) and Chloë Sevigny (/wiki/Chlo%C3%AB_Sevigny) ". [100] (#cite_note-100) In 2008 English actress Sophie Winkleman (/wiki/Sophie_Winkleman) , who had attended Cambridge University (/wiki/Cambridge_University) in the 1990s, remarked wryly that she had "wor[n] floaty dresses at university ... thinking that I looked poetic and wistful. I actually looked homeless". [101] (#cite_note-101) Another British commentator referred to Mary-Kate Olsen's "everything-but-the-kitchen-sink approach to dressing", but noted that, by 2006, the Olsens' merchandising empire was recording annual sales of £500 million. [102] (#cite_note-102) Cocktail grunge and the catwalk [ edit ] A " catwalk (/wiki/Catwalk) ", a refinement in 2006, of which actresses Kate Bosworth (/wiki/Kate_Bosworth) and Thandie Newton (/wiki/Thandie_Newton) were said to be exponents, was referred to as "cocktail grunge" – "looking done-undone ... it's what Marianne Faithfull and Blondie (/wiki/Debbie_Harry) would be wearing if they were young now". [103] (#cite_note-103) – while a journalist who interviewed supermodel Helena Christensen (/wiki/Helena_Christensen) in 2011 observed that, fresh from a photoshoot, she "flopped in a leather armchair like a sexy, ageing beatnik" and that, while "not a hippie, exactly", she lived in " groovy (/wiki/Groovy) bohemia in Manhattan, where you can spot [her] moseying around the flea markets (/wiki/Flea_market) on the weekends". [104] (#cite_note-104) At the end of the 2000s (decade), this combination of apparently conflicting features was adopted by teenaged actress Taylor Momsen (/wiki/Taylor_Momsen) , who, in 2010, became the "face" of the British retailing chain New Look (/wiki/New_Look_(clothing_retailer)) . Momsen described her style as "sweet and tough, grunge (/wiki/Grunge) meets Chanel (/wiki/Chanel) – a giant oxymoron (/wiki/Oxymoron) " and claimed that she chose her outfits from "whatever clean clothes she finds on her floor" ("although no one ever believes me"). [105] (#cite_note-105) French bobos and similar stylists [ edit ] In the world of Parisian fashion, the term bobo (short for Bourgeois Bohème (/wiki/Bobos_in_Paradise) ), which also had political connotations, was applied to "typically discerning customers who are left wing and Left Bank (/wiki/Rive_Gauche) "; [106] (#cite_note-106) or, put another way, "that subset of thirty- or forty-something (/wiki/Thirtysomething_(term)) -year-olds who don't allow their socialist leanings to interfere with an enjoyment of material pleasures". [107] (#cite_note-autogenerated8-107) As such, la gauche caviar [the caviar (/wiki/Caviar) left] was sometimes applied as an epithet to bobos . [108] (#cite_note-108) The bobo style of dress has been described as "retro-hippie- shabby-chic (/wiki/Shabby_chic) ", [107] (#cite_note-autogenerated8-107) its elements including jersey (/wiki/Jersey_(clothing)) tops, boiled wool (/wiki/Boiled_wool) jackets, smart jeans (/wiki/Jeans) , Converse (/wiki/Converse_(shoe_company)) training shoes (/wiki/Athletic_shoe) and leather bags by Jerome Dreyfuss (/w/index.php?title=Jerome_Dreyfuss&action=edit&redlink=1) (born 1974). [109] (#cite_note-109) A leading exponent was actress and singer Vanessa Paradis (/wiki/Vanessa_Paradis) , who particularly favoured the designs of Isabel Marant (/wiki/Isabel_Marant) (born 1967), while English actress Michelle Dockery (/wiki/Michelle_Dockery) , best known for her part as Lady Mary Crawley in the early 20th century drama Downton Abbey (/wiki/Downton_Abbey) (2010–14), cited Anglo-French actress Charlotte Gainsbourg (/wiki/Charlotte_Gainsbourg) as one of her style icons: "I love that she looks like she's just thrown it on. Simplicity is true elegance". [110] (#cite_note-110) Around the same time, another British actress Karen Gillan (/wiki/Karen_Gillan) , best known as Amy Pond (/wiki/Amy_Pond) in the BBC's science-fiction series Doctor Who (/wiki/Doctor_Who) , defined the look of 1960s model Jean Shrimpton (/wiki/Jean_Shrimpton) , whom she greatly admired and had just portrayed in a filmed drama for television, as "messy, waifish (/wiki/Gamine) , bony". She herself professed a liking for vintage clothing: "When girls do the walk of shame ... I think they look best like that, slightly dishevelled." The Kate Moss look? "Yeah". [111] (#cite_note-111) Some of the teenaged rock bands, such as Second Sex (/w/index.php?title=Second_Sex_(band)&action=edit&redlink=1) [112] (#cite_note-112) and the Plastiscines (/wiki/Plastiscines) , that emerged in France c. 2006 and were known collectively as les bébés rockers ("baby rockers"), were initially derided in some sections of the press because of their bobo backgrounds: as Kate Spicer observed in the Sunday Times , "it's as if a bunch of privileged Islington (/wiki/Islington) kids had picked up their guitars and proclaimed themselves the new Sex Pistols (/wiki/Sex_Pistols) ". [113] (#cite_note-113) By 2010 bobos – "free-thinkers at the weekend, but bankers Monday to Friday" – were said to be squeezing out young, genuinely creative Parisians from their traditional neighborhoods, [114] (#cite_note-114) with Porte de Bagnolet (/wiki/Porte_de_Bagnolet_(Paris_M%C3%A9tro)) , in the 20th arrondissement (/wiki/Arrondissement) , cited as an alternative base for "the next generation of diverse Parisian voices". [115] (#cite_note-115) Spanish Gypsies, 1917 (National Geographic) The name "Bourgeois Boheme" was adopted in 2005 by a British company, founded by Alicia Lai, that marketed "ethnically sourced" fashion accessories and cosmetics and, by 2009, had moved into handmade shoes crafted from such materials as hemp and organic cotton. [116] (#cite_note-116) Bohemian roots [ edit ] Main article: Bohemian style (/wiki/Bohemian_style) Although boho-chic in the early years of the 21st century represented a definite style, it was not a "movement." Nor was it noticeably associated with bohemianism as such. Jessica Brinton saw it as "the tagging and selling of the bohemian dream to the masses for £5.99". [117] (#cite_note-117) Indeed, the Sunday Times thought it ironic that "fashionable girls wore ruffly floral skirts in the hope of looking bohemian, nomadic, spirited and non-bourgeois", whereas "gypsy girls themselves ... are sexy and delightful precisely because they do not give a hoot for fashion". [118] (#cite_note-118) By contrast, in the first half of the 20th century, aspects of bohemian fashion were a reflection of the lifestyle itself. In fact, most of the components of boho had, in one way or another, drifted in and out of fashion since the " Summer of Love (/wiki/Summer_of_Love) " of 1967 when hippiedom (/wiki/Hippie) and psychedelia (/wiki/Psychedelia) were at their peak. As journalist Bob Stanley put it, "the late 1960s are never entirely out of fashion, they just need a fresh angle to make them de jour ". [119] (#cite_note-119) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) See The Times , 2 November 2006 ^ (#cite_ref-2) The It Lists (https://www.theitlists.com) , Sept 2006 ^ (#cite_ref-3) Sunday Times Style , 24 September 2006 ^ (#cite_ref-4) The Times , 2 November 2006 ^ (#cite_ref-5) Among the Bohemians: Experiments in Living 1900–1939 , 2002 ^ (#cite_ref-6) A. N. Wilson (2005) After the Victorians ^ (#cite_ref-7) A Scandal in Bohemia , 1891 ^ (#cite_ref-8) Sunday Times Style , 20 August 2006 ^ (#cite_ref-9) Style , 26 December 2004 ^ (#cite_ref-10) Glamour (/wiki/Glamour_(magazine)) , April 2004 ^ (#cite_ref-11) Closer , 10–16 September 2005 ^ (#cite_ref-12) Vogue , December 2006 ^ (#cite_ref-13) Sunday Times Style , 5 August 2007. ^ (#cite_ref-14) Sunday Times , 15 October 2006 ^ (#cite_ref-15) London Lite , 18 July 2007 ^ (#cite_ref-16) Harvey, Catriona (13 October 2015). "Cosmopolitan, the women's magazine for fashion, beauty, sex tips and celebrity news" (https://web.archive.org/web/20160303221856/http://www.getlippy.com/starstyle/siennamiller/herstyle/) . Getlippy.com. Archived from the original (http://www.getlippy.com/starstyle/siennamiller/herstyle/) on 3 March 2016 . Retrieved 9 November 2015 . ^ Jump up to: a b Vogue , December 2004 ^ (#cite_ref-18) Style , 16 May 2005 ^ Jump up to: a b Style , 1 May 2005 ^ Jump up to: a b Sunday Times Style , 5 August 2007 ^ (#cite_ref-21) Hair , June 2007 ^ (#cite_ref-22) Vogue , January 2007 ^ (#cite_ref-23) Times Magazine , 23 September 2006 ^ Jump up to: a b Sunday Times Style , 18 March 2007 ^ Jump up to: a b Deborah Arthurs, London Lite , 14 May 2007 ^ (#cite_ref-26) Iain Stewart, Ibiza & Formentera (Rough Guide Directions, 2nd ed., 2008) ^ (#cite_ref-27) Sandy Mitchell, The Tatler , November 2010. The particular context of Jagger's observations was her styling of a group of villas in Marrakech. ^ (#cite_ref-28) Sunday Times Style , 17 October 2010 ^ (#cite_ref-29) Sunday Times Style , 16 January 2005 ^ (#cite_ref-30) Sienna Miller, Sunday Times Style , 17 October 2010 ^ (#cite_ref-31) Harriet Stewart, Sunday Times Style , 17 July 2011 ^ Jump up to: a b Deborah Arthurs in London Lite , 3 September 2007 ^ (#cite_ref-33) Alice Fordham in Sunday Times Style , 13 July 2008 ^ (#cite_ref-34) Sky Mag , June 2008 ^ (#cite_ref-35) Your M&S , May/June 2008. " Bohemian Rhapsody (/wiki/Bohemian_Rhapsody) " was the title of 1975 hit record by the British rock group Queen (/wiki/Queen_(band)) . ^ (#cite_ref-36) thelondonpaper , 1 June 2008 ^ (#cite_ref-37) "Filmmaking Category" (http://www.futuremovies.co.uk/filmmaking.asp?ID=185) . Future Movies . Retrieved 9 November 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-38) [1] (http://www.maxim.com/stuff/girls-of-stuff/37978/rachel-bilson.html) Archived (https://web.archive.org/web/20100502065805/http://www.maxim.com/stuff/girls-of-stuff/37978/rachel-bilson.html) May 2, 2010, at the Wayback Machine (/wiki/Wayback_Machine) ^ (#cite_ref-39) "Zooey Deschanel: BlackBook June–July Cover Girl - BlackBook" (http://www.blackbookmag.com/article/zooey-deschanel-blackbook-june-july-cover-girl/3022) . Blackbookmag.com. 22 May 2008 . Retrieved 9 November 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-40) "Actress Zooey Deschanel is the antistarlet - Entertainment - Movies - TODAY.com" (https://www.today.com/popculture/actress-zooey-deschanel-antistarlet-wbna24967420) . Today.com . Retrieved 13 April 2012 . ^ (#cite_ref-41) For example, Radio Times , 23 March 2013 ^ (#cite_ref-42) Notably a purple demi rhinestone (/wiki/Rhinestone) bra by Victoria's Secret (/wiki/Victoria%27s_Secret) in series 2, episode 15 ("Cooler") ^ (#cite_ref-43) Rachel Felder in New York Times , 13 February 2013. ^ (#cite_ref-44) Fifty Shades of Grey , chapter 8 ^ (#cite_ref-45) Metro , 7 November 2013; FHM , January 2014. In one photograph Vickers was holding a copy of Che Guevara (/wiki/Che_Guevara) 's Motorcycle Diaries (/wiki/The_Motorcycle_Diaries_(book)) . ^ (#cite_ref-46) Fashion Union, The Fashionista's Pocket Guide to Miami , Spring 2010 ^ (#cite_ref-47) Sunday Times Business , 21 March 2010. In early 2010 Monsoon planned to open a further 140 stores worldwide in the coming year. ^ (#cite_ref-48) Sunday Times Style , 13 June 2010 ^ (#cite_ref-49) Lucy Ewing, Sunday Times Style , 17 October 2010 ^ Jump up to: a b The Times , 27 November 2010 ^ (#cite_ref-51) "Celebrate Beautifully Styled Boho-chic Children's Clothing Styles (part 1)" (http://www.magnolialakeclothing.com/posts/boho-chic-childrens-clothing/) . Magnolia Lake Clothing . 4 February 2017 . Retrieved 5 February 2017 . ^ (#cite_ref-52) "Kate Moss has a new A-list fan" (https://indiebohoboutique.com/collections/bohemian-attire-staff-picks) . Vogue.co.uk. 11 August 2005 . Retrieved 9 November 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-53) New York Magazine , 5 April 2004 ^ (#cite_ref-54) Times Magazine , 20 May 2006 ^ (#cite_ref-55) See, for example, London Evening Standard , 5 November 2004 ^ (#cite_ref-56) Jessica Brinton, Sunday Times Style , 6 April 2008 ^ (#cite_ref-57) Fleur Britten, Sunday Times Style , 28 April 2008 ^ (#cite_ref-58) Britten, 28 April 2008 ^ (#cite_ref-59) Cosmo Landesman, Sunday Times Culture , 22 June 2008 ^ (#cite_ref-60) "Rachel Zoe Launches Talk Show That I Will Definitely Be Watching, Especially If Mandana Dayani Appears" (https://www.bustle.com/articles/97640-rachel-zoe-launches-talk-show-that-i-will-definitely-be-watching-especially-if-mandana-dayani-appears) . Bustle . Retrieved 15 November 2021 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Rachel Zoe: the stylist's boho look is back for spring/summer 2013" (https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/shortcuts/2012/nov/19/rachel-zoe-look-catwalks-2013) . the Guardian . 19 November 2012 . Retrieved 15 November 2021 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Why This Mid-Noughties Style Moment Is Best Left In The Past" (https://graziadaily.co.uk/fashion/trends/paris-hilton-noughties-style/) . Grazia . Retrieved 15 November 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-63) "Rachel Zoe creates semi-autobiographical comedy" (https://www.independent.ie/style/fashion/rachel-zoe-creates-semi-autobiographical-comedy-28819752.html) . independent . Retrieved 15 November 2021 . ^ (#cite_ref-64) Your M&S , Christmas 2005 ^ Jump up to: a b Style , 18 June 2006 ^ (#cite_ref-66) In 2001 and 2002, Stevens was voted the second "sexiest woman in the World" by FHM (/wiki/FHM) readers in the UK. ^ (#cite_ref-67) Camilla St John, London Lite , 14 May 2007 ^ Jump up to: a b Style , 17 September 2006 ^ (#cite_ref-69) Josephine Collins (Draper's Magazine) , Today , BBC Radio 4, 6 October 2006 ^ (#cite_ref-70) The Scotsman , 30 April 2003 ^ (#cite_ref-71) Claudia Croft, Style , 2 July 2006 ^ (#cite_ref-72) Evening Standard Magazine , 15 September 2006 ^ (#cite_ref-73) Britt Bardo, Style , 24 September 2006 ^ (#cite_ref-74) thelondonpaper , 24 October 2007 ^ (#cite_ref-75) Tatler , June 2010 ^ (#cite_ref-76) Quoted in The Times Saturday Review , 29 October 2011 ^ (#cite_ref-77) See, for example, Francesca Ryan, Daily Telegraph , 4 June 2009; John Harris, The Guardian , 27 February 2010 ^ (#cite_ref-78) Jeremy Maas, "The Pre-Raphaelites: A Personal View" in Leslie Parris (1984) The Pre-Raphaelite Papers ; Fiona MacCarthy (2011) The Last Pre-Raphaelite: Edward Burne-Jones and the Victorian Imagination . Welch denied in 2009 that she herself was a hippy – "I'm just an emotional creature": quoted in The Times Saturday Review , 29 October 2011. ^ (#cite_ref-79) Quoted in The Times Saturday Review , loc.cit. ^ (#cite_ref-80) Cf. , for example, The Baleful Head by Edward Burne-Jones (1874), whose 2011 biographer has described him as "a perfect artist for that period [late 1960s] of flower power, sex, drugs and rock 'n'roll" (Fiona MacCarthy, op.cit. ). ^ (#cite_ref-81) Rebecca Nicholson in Sunday Times Culture , 19 September 2010 ^ (#cite_ref-82) The Times Playlist , 8 May 2010. See also ES Magazine , 14 May 2010: "Karen Elson and Jack White: The Addams Family of Rock". ^ (#cite_ref-83) Wasilak, Sarah. "Karen Elson for Agent Provocateur | POPSUGAR Fashion UK" (http://www.fabsugar.co.uk/Karen-Elson-Agent-Provocateur-2943683) . Fabsugar.co.uk . Retrieved 9 November 2015 . ^ (#cite_ref-84) BlackBook , June/July 2008 (supra) ^ (#cite_ref-85) See, for example, Tim Adams in The Guardian , 30 April 2011 ^ (#cite_ref-86) In her biography of Burne-Jones ( The Last Pre-Raphaelite , 2011), Fiona MacCarthy referred to a "special kind of mysticism" in his major works. Citing this observation in a review, David Waller observed that "the girls are high born and ethereal, the men dreamy and knightly, the whole transfused with an idiosyncratic beauty": History Today , October 2011, page 62. ^ (#cite_ref-87) The Times , 30 April 2011 ^ (#cite_ref-88) Style , 6 June 2004 ^ (#cite_ref-89) Style , 16 January 2005 ^ (#cite_ref-90) Style , 2 July 2006 ^ (#cite_ref-91) Clare Coulson, The birth of Foho , 16 May 2007 ^ (#cite_ref-92) Evening Standard Magazine , 11 March 2005 ^ (#cite_ref-93) Dean Nelson, Sunday Times , 15 October 2006 ^ (#cite_ref-94) London Lite , 14 May 2007. "Hippy, hippy chic" was a pun on Hippy Hippy Shake (/wiki/Hippy_Hippy_Shake) , the title of a 1963 hit record by the Swinging Blue Jeans (/wiki/The_Swinging_Blue_Jeans) ^ (#cite_ref-95) Times Magazine , 1 July 2006 ^ (#cite_ref-96) The Times , 2 November 2006 ^ (#cite_ref-97) Hedley Freeman, Guardian, 24 June 2005 ^ (#cite_ref-98) La Ferla, Ruth (6 March 2005). "Mary-Kate, Fashion Star" (https://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9C06EFD81E3DF935A35750C0A9639C8B63) . The New York Times . Retrieved 8 November 2007 . ^ (#cite_ref-99) Sunday Times , 7 January 2007 ^ (#cite_ref-100) Kristale Ivezay, The South End , 8 April 2005 ^ (#cite_ref-101) Quoted in The Times Body & Soul , 9 August 2008 ^ (#cite_ref-102) Jessica Brinton, Style , 22 October 2006 ^ (#cite_ref-103) Jessica Paster, Style , 24 September 2006 ^ (#cite_ref-104) Giles Hattersley in Sunday Times Style , 17 July 2011 ^ (#cite_ref-105) Metro , 13 May 2010 ^ (#cite_ref-106) Carola Long in The Times Guide to Paris Fashion and Style , October 2006 ^ Jump up to: a b National Geographic , August 2003 ^ (#cite_ref-108) Sunday Times Style , 25 March 2007 ^ (#cite_ref-109) The Times Guide to Paris Fashion and Style October 2006 ^ (#cite_ref-110) The Times Luxx , 26 November 2011. Dockery added that, when wearing long dresses, she tried not to look "too Downton Abbey ... I like to make it a little bit more edgy". ^ (#cite_ref-111) Sunday Times Magazine , 1 January 2012 ^ (#cite_ref-112) Second Sex took their name from the book (/wiki/Second_Sex) of that name (1949) by Simone de Beauvoir (/wiki/Simone_de_Beauvoir) . ^ (#cite_ref-113) Sunday Times Style , 25 March 2007. Islington is an upper-middle class area of London; the Sex Pistols were a leading punk (/wiki/Punk_rock) band of the late 1970s. ^ (#cite_ref-114) Brian Scofield, Sunday Times Travel , 18 July 2010 ^ (#cite_ref-115) Sunday Times , 18 July 2010 ^ (#cite_ref-116) Country Life , 21 October 2009 ^ (#cite_ref-117) Style , 20 August 2006 ^ (#cite_ref-118) Style , 19 June 2006 ^ (#cite_ref-119) The Times Knowledge , 24 June 2006 External links [ edit ] Look up chic (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/chic) or bohemian (https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/bohemian) in Wiktionary, the free dictionary. Wikiquote has quotations related to Boho-chic (https://en.wikiquote.org/wiki/Special:Search/Boho-chic) . 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Traditional Southeast Asian Islamic headscarf Variety of tudongs ( tudung ) sold in Malaysia. Part of a series (/wiki/Category:Islamic_female_clothing) on Islamic (/wiki/Islam) female (/wiki/Women_in_Islam) dress (/wiki/Islamic_clothing) Types (/wiki/Types_of_hijab) Abaya (/wiki/Abaya) Al-amira (/wiki/Al-amira) Battoulah (/wiki/Battoulah) Boshiya (/wiki/Boshiya) Burkini (/wiki/Burkini) Burqa (/wiki/Burqa) Çarşaf (/wiki/%C3%87ar%C5%9Faf) Chador (/wiki/Chador) Haik (/wiki/Haik_(garment)) Hijab (/wiki/Hijab) Jilbaab (/wiki/Jilb%C4%81b) Kerudung (/wiki/Kerudung) Kimeshek (/wiki/Kimeshek) Khimar (/wiki/Khimar) Kurhars (/wiki/Kurhars) Mukena (/wiki/Mukena) Niqaab (/wiki/Niq%C4%81b) Paranja (/wiki/Paranja) Safseri (/wiki/Safseri) Selendang (/wiki/Selendang) Shayla (/wiki/Shayla) Tudong Yashmak (/wiki/Yashmak) Practice and law by country (/wiki/Hijab_by_country) Australia (/wiki/Burka_ban_in_Australia) Britain (/wiki/British_debate_over_veils) Canada (/wiki/Islamic_veiling_practices_by_country#Canada) Egypt (/wiki/Niq%C4%81b_in_Egypt) France (/wiki/Islamic_scarf_controversy_in_France) Indonesia (/wiki/Women_in_Indonesia#National_law_and_sharia) Iran (/wiki/Hijab_in_Iran) Pakistan (/wiki/Women_in_Pakistan#Culture) Saudi Arabia (/wiki/Women%27s_rights_in_Saudi_Arabia#Hijab_and_dress_code) Taliban Afghanistan (/wiki/Taliban_treatment_of_women#Gender_policies) Turkey (/wiki/Headscarf_controversy_in_Turkey) Concepts Andaruni (/wiki/Andaruni) Awrah (/wiki/Intimate_parts_in_Islam) Fahisha (/wiki/Fahisha) Gender segregation (/wiki/Islam_and_gender_segregation) Haya (/wiki/Haya_(Islam)) Purdah (/wiki/Purdah) Zenana (/wiki/Zenana) Other Hijabophobia (/wiki/Hijabophobia) Hujum (/wiki/Hujum) Kashf-e hijab (/wiki/Kashf-e_hijab) My Stealthy Freedom (/wiki/My_Stealthy_Freedom) Wimple (/wiki/Wimple) World Hijab Day (/wiki/World_Hijab_Day) v t e The tudong ( Malay (/wiki/Indonesian_language) : tudung , Jawi (/wiki/Jawi_alphabet) : تودوڠ ) is a style of headscarf, worn as interpretation of the Islamic (/wiki/Islam) hijab (/wiki/Hijab) , prevalent amongst many Muslim women in the Malay (/wiki/Malay_language) -speaking world; Indonesia (/wiki/Indonesia) , Brunei (/wiki/Brunei) , Malaysia (/wiki/Malaysia) , and Singapore (/wiki/Singapore) . Today, the tudong forms part of the standard dress code (/wiki/Dress_code) for many offices in Indonesia and Malaysia, as well as in school uniforms and formal occasions. Though initially considered a conservative form of dress, it is worn today by most moderate Muslim women in Malaysia and Indonesia. Name [ edit ] The term “tudong” or “tudung” is a Malay (/wiki/Malay_language) / Indonesian (/wiki/Indonesian_language) word, literally meaning the noun "cover", which is commonly translated as veil (/wiki/Veil) or headscarf (/wiki/Headscarf) in English (/wiki/English_language) . Tudong is usually used to describe the headscarf in Malaysia, while in Indonesia it is more common to call the tudong the kerudung or perhaps the jilbab . However, in recent years many speakers of Malay/Indonesian have simply began referring to the tudong/tudung/kerudung as hijab , a loanword from Arabic (/wiki/Arabic) that reflects the growing Arabic cultural influence on the practice of Islam in Southeast Asia (/wiki/Southeast_Asia) . In the Philippines (/wiki/Philippines) , tudong or talukbong (Tagalog) refers to the standard hijab (/wiki/Hijab) as worn by Muslim women. The term is interchangeable with the standard Arabic term hijab (alternatively spelled hidyab in Filipino), and usually takes the form of the headwrap (/wiki/Headwrap) , visor-type, al-amira (/wiki/Al-amira) , khimar (/wiki/Khimar) or niqab (/wiki/Niqab) (face veil) types of veiling. Another term, kombong (alternative spelling: combong ), refers to an older style of headwrap hijab worn by Maranao (/wiki/Maranao_people) , Iranun (/wiki/Iranun_people) , and Maguindanao (/wiki/Maguindanao) women with a semi-translucent shayla (/wiki/Shayla) or malong (/wiki/Malong) (sarong) worn over the chest and drawn over the kombong for prayers, or for additional veiling when out of the house or familiar areas. Tudong, talukbong or kombong are native Austronesian (/wiki/Austronesian_languages) words and cognates with Malay and Indonesian tudung or kerudung for the hijab. They are commonly used in languages spoken by Muslim Filipinos (/wiki/Muslim_Filipinos) or Bangsamoros (/wiki/Bangsamoro) , including the three Danao languages (/wiki/Danao_languages) of Maranao (/wiki/Maranao) , Maguindanao (/wiki/Maguindanao) and Iranun (/wiki/Iranun) , Kaagan (/wiki/Kalagan_language) , and Tausug (/wiki/Tausug_language) , Yakan (/wiki/Yakan_language) , and Sinama (/wiki/Sinama) ( Bajau (/wiki/Bajau) ). In Tagalog (/wiki/Tagalog_language) or Bisaya (/wiki/Bisayan_languages) , the standard Arabic word of hijab , the native term talukbong, or the English terms of headscarf (/wiki/Headscarf) , veil , or scarf are commonly used by non-Muslims to refer to the tudong instead. Description [ edit ] The tudong covers the hair, ears, and neck with a sewn-in curved visor, leaving only the face exposed. The tudong is typically colourful, sporting bright colours such as pinks, yellows, blues, and greens, and is of a square Arabic-style hijab shape, though the tudung is much more colourful than hijab in the Middle East (/wiki/Middle_East) . In both Indonesia and Malaysia a major fashion industry has blossomed around the tudong, with a wide variety of colours and styles as well as the use of buttoned raincoats such as the jilbab (/wiki/Jilb%C4%81b) , long dresses (/wiki/Dress) , and accessories to complement the tudong. Many women also simply wear it with Western-style jeans (/wiki/Jeans) and T-shirts (/wiki/T-shirt) . Make-up (/wiki/Cosmetics) is also commonly worn alongside the tudong. The growth of social media (/wiki/Social_media) has allowed online tudung outlets such as Naelofa Hijab, Fareeda Tudung, SA Elegance, JelitaSARA, and Ariani to market the tudong to young Muslim women in the Malay-speaking world in an effort to remain both fashion-conscious and comply with Islamic modesty (/wiki/Modesty) . Many women attempt to emulate the latest tudong styles seen on celebrities in the Malay-speaking world. [1] (#cite_note-1) History [ edit ] Modern tudung in Brunei The tudong, despite its popularity in the Malay-speaking world, is a recent phenomenon rather than a traditional one. Its origins lie in the mid-to-late 1970s, when the Islamic revival (/wiki/Islamic_revival) , fuelled by the rise of “ Petro-Islam (/wiki/Petro-Islam) ” and the buildup to the Iranian Revolution (/wiki/Iranian_Revolution) , began to emerge in the Middle East. Pre-1970s [ edit ] Before the 1970s, interpretations of hijab varied amongst women in Malaysia and Indonesia, the most notable form being the selendang (/wiki/Selendang) , a patterned shawl-like scarf loosely draped around the shoulders or around the head, usually not covering the front of the hair or the ears. Before the late 1970s, the headscarf in general, even the selendang , was something that was reserved for special occasions, such as during funerals (/wiki/Funeral) or kenduris . Some offices and banks would put up notices that prohibited women with headscarves because headscarves were thought to make a woman look like a criminal. [2] (#cite_note-:0-2) Wearing the headscarf was rare and often shunned; some women appeared on the front pages of newspapers for wearing it. At the time there was also resentment, most notably in Singapore, between Malay Muslims and Muslims of Arab and especially Yemeni origins, as they were viewed as exploiting Malays. [2] (#cite_note-:0-2) This resentment resulted in Malay communities shunning traditions considered “Arab” and “foreign” in nature, such as the headscarf. 1970s [ edit ] The tudong emerged during the mid-to-late 1970s among reformist female Muslim university students studying in campuses in the Middle East, and also to a lesser extent in the United States, England, and Australia, as a result of Ali Shariati (/wiki/Ali_Shariati) ’s “authenticity movement” and with the emergence of modern hijab styles being worn by Iranian university students. [3] (#cite_note-:1-3) The tudong was intended to reaffirm these students’ identity as pious Muslims, to reject Western fashion in the same way that Iranian women increasingly were, and to foster a sense of solidarity among themselves. This new form of Islamic dress would begin to also appear at Southeast Asian university campuses in the 1970s and was known as dakwah fashion ( fesyen dakwah ). [3] (#cite_note-:1-3) After the Iranian Revolution (/wiki/Iranian_Revolution) (1978-1979) took place, the Islamic revival (/wiki/Islamic_revival) was brought to the centre of the Muslim world (/wiki/Muslim_world) . The revolution captured the imagination of not only those from the Middle East but many Malaysian Muslims, where the tudong first emerged before later arriving in Indonesia. 1980s [ edit ] While it was considered a rarity for Malay women to don the tudung (headscarf) before the 1980s, it eventially arrived into mainstream public space and conscience beginning in the early 1980s after the Islamic Cultural Revolution of Iran, taking inspiration from the chador (/wiki/Chador) by law imposed on Iranian women. Some of the female Muslim students who decided to cover themselves from head to toe were being expelled from their universities for refusing to reveal their faces for identification. By the mid-1980s, within six years of the Iranian Revolution and the Islamic revival in Malaysia, tudong-clad women were becoming the majority in institutions of higher learning, and in the civil service. [4] (#cite_note-4) By the end of the 1980s, the tudong had visibly replaced the selendang as the form of headscarf most commonly worn by women in Malaysia, spreading from university campuses to schools, workplaces and eventually to the kampongs (/wiki/Kampong) . 1990s [ edit ] By the 1990s, the tudong had also been exported to Indonesia, where it became mainstream, the result of the two countries sharing Malay-language media and Arabic oil money (known as “ Petro-Islam (/wiki/Petro-Islam) ”) funded towards Islam in the two countries. [ citation needed ] See also [ edit ] Clothing portal (/wiki/Portal:Clothing) Fashion portal (/wiki/Portal:Fashion) Malaysia portal (/wiki/Portal:Malaysia) Malaysian cultural outfits (/wiki/Malaysian_cultural_outfits) Culture of Malaysia (/wiki/Culture_of_Malaysia) References [ edit ] ^ (#cite_ref-1) "Reconceptualising the Tudung: Malay Women, Social Media and Modern Lifestyles" (https://www.researchgate.net/publication/344421610) . ^ Jump up to: a b Tan, Wu Zhen (2017-12-02). "Wearing tudungs used to be controversial in Malaysia?! How did things change so much?" (https://cilisos.my/wearing-tudungs-used-to-be-controversial-in-malaysia-how-did-things-change-so-much/) . Retrieved 2022-09-17 . ^ Jump up to: a b "Tudung | Infopedia" (https://eresources.nlb.gov.sg/infopedia/articles/SIP_2013-09-30_123324.html) . eresources.nlb.gov.sg . Retrieved 2022-09-17 . ^ (#cite_ref-4) "Iranian Revolution the catalyst for 'tudung code' (https://www.thestar.com.my/opinion/letters/2005/11/13/iranian-revolution-the-catalyst-for-tudung-code) " (https://www.thestar.com.my/opinion/letters/2005/11/13/iranian-revolution-the-catalyst-for-tudung-code) . The Star . Retrieved 2022-09-17 . External links [ edit ] (in Malay) " Tudung, hijab dan… — Aisha Adam (http://m.themalaymailonline.com/what-you-think/article/tudung-hijab-dan-aisha-adam) " ( Archive (https://archive.today/20151023152240/http://m.themalaymailonline.com/what-you-think/article/tudung-hijab-dan-aisha-adam) ). 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