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...but I really hope you guys do well. I love looking at them!

{'author': 'thirty-nine', 'created_utc': 1400175760, 'score': 9, 'num_comments': 6}

I bought some silver nitrate from photographers formulary and when I mixed it with distilled water same water I used for the bostic and sullivan silver nitrate it turned dark brown and silver started clumping up at the bottom, the ph was also at 6 which was strange. anybody else experience this?

{'author': 'napalmjerry', 'created_utc': 1402784116, 'score': 3, 'num_comments': 3}

I'm gearing up for shooting wet plate positives aluminum and black glass. The ebook looks like a good value since it includes the video material as well. Can anybody tell me what the differences if any between the physical version and the ebook in terms of information presented? Would buying the ebook be the equivalent of buying both physical books plus paying for access to the videos?

{'author': '33CB', 'created_utc': 1405974795, 'score': 4, 'num_comments': 3}

I'm looking for a continuous light source. At the moment I will not be able to invest in any strobespower packs. I'm looking for bulbs or fixtures I can buy andor make on my own from Lowes or Home Depot. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

{'author': 'samodog', 'created_utc': 1439312015, 'score': 2, 'num_comments': 2}

Anyone using strobes in their tintype photography out there? If so, share your work and your setup. I have started playing around with some Speedotrons lately and it seems like a workable light solution. The primary issue a lot of times is the harshness of the light, but I think there are good ways to mitigate this. Nashville Tintypes

{'author': 'Ambrotypist', 'created_utc': 1458663103, 'score': 3, 'num_comments': 11}

First off, I want to say that this is my first time on Reddit. So, If I do something incorrect, I'm sorry. Please Let me know. I have a Rochester Optical Co. Camera with an 1891 Bausch Lomb pneumatic lens. The lens fires smoothly. The problem is the timing. There was variation of timing when I changed to the different shutter speeds but they weren't quite accurate. Bulb was not functioning at all and when set to 1 and .5 of a second it never closed. In order to try and fix the timing I took apart the right piston don't know the technical term so I settled on piston, ha! that is responsible for the timing via air entrapment. Within the bottom of the piston it was full of junk. It looked as though something rubber had deteriorated within it. I read once that these pistons need to be bone dry. Thinking this may be the problem, I cleaned it all out. After cleaning out the piston there is now no variation in shutter speeds. They all seem to fire around 1100. Bulb still does not work. My thought is that whatever had deteriorated in that piston once served a purpose. I'm hoping that may be the problem. Any ideas as to what could fix this? Also, anyone know what the left piston does? the one below the shutter release. Here is a link to some images of the camera

{'author': 'botography', 'created_utc': 1459732348, 'score': 2, 'num_comments': 5}

I am extremely new to photography but recently acquired an old Kodak wet plate camera. I am wondering if anyone has tried developing an image directly on to black and white photographic sensitive paper. Would this be possible? Has anyone tried this? The camera obscura seems to have the same focused projection that is used with the paper in making a traditional enlarged print from a film negative. I feel like if this were possible it would be a good way to develop skill with the camera before making the jump to the wet plate process.

{'author': 'ChuckTexas', 'created_utc': 1477513469, 'score': 1, 'num_comments': 3}

Recently, my wetplate mentor showed me that you can replace the final step of varnishing your tintype or ambrotype by using Renaissance Wax instead. It works wonders! It doesn't darken or colour the image at all, and needs no heat to apply, just rub it on gently with a cotton pad and buff off the excess. Has anyone else tried this?

{'author': 'gbmcinephoto', 'created_utc': 1486055653, 'score': 3, 'num_comments': 6}

I found that Scanning plates I use an Epson V750 Pro gave me unsatisfactory results because the scan would reveal imperfections not often seen with the naked eye. Dust and irregularities in the surface of the varnish stand out like a sore thumb. I've taken to photographing my plates on black velvet and have had much better success. Thoughts?

{'author': 'gbmcinephoto', 'created_utc': 1486737676, 'score': 4, 'num_comments': 2}

Hey, I have a bunch of plates I have just finished, would love to scan them before I varnish and again after any tips for scanning unvarnished? How careful do I have to be? Can I lay the plate directly onto the glass of the scanner?

{'author': 'analoguewoman', 'created_utc': 1504928887, 'score': 0, 'num_comments': 1}

Im trying to get into tintype, but Im actually having a more difficult time finding basic information than I thought I would. There seems to be a lot of information available for those who already have a good foundation of knowledge, but I cant find fundamental information for photographers who have shot a long time but who have never even developed film. Can anyone recommend some good books or maybe sites that offer more than a brief demonstration of the process? Thanks in advance.

{'author': 'shutterlagged', 'created_utc': 1511211744, 'score': 3, 'num_comments': 2}

I'm based in London and thought I'd ask for suggestions on courses in the city or even anywhere in the UK I'd happily travel for 1on1 or group. Thanks so much! www.emmadudlyke.com

{'author': 'forestconstance', 'created_utc': 1514936735, 'score': 2, 'num_comments': 1}

Any recommendation for an 8x10 holder that isn't a DIY neg holder?

{'author': 'nonlexical', 'created_utc': 1517107323, 'score': 2, 'num_comments': 4}

I've been interested in large format photography, and wet plate collodion for a while, I think it's fascinating. I have zero idea on how to start though. What do I need for the darkroom, the camera, the chemicals? Is there a good consolidated source of information so I don't have to piece together bits of blogs and youtube videos? Thanks all.

{'author': 'jellynaut', 'created_utc': 1517795271, 'score': 2, 'num_comments': 6}

Complete noob here.  I'm really tempted to get into plate photography, but I don't have a real dark room.  I could light proof my bathroom, but it's not particularly well ventilated no fan, just a window that I'd be sealing up to light proof it.  I know the chemicals involved in the process can be dangerous, would it be a safety hazard to work in that kind of environment? I know I can get protective gear for myself, but I'm worried about whether it could do damage to fixtures in the bathroom or create a dangerous environment for the rest of the apartment.

{'author': 'robertbieber', 'created_utc': 1525205172, 'score': 4, 'num_comments': 25}

Clear glass ambrotype shot outside in open shade. Graflex Speed Graphic with Optar 135mm f4.7 lens shot at f5.6 for about 6 seconds. Using BS collodion kit. Converted 4x5 holder, actual plate size is 3.25x4.25". I photographed the plate against black velvet using an Iphone, it is probably sharper than it appears here.

{'author': 'taylormahoney25', 'created_utc': 1533313522, 'score': 11, 'num_comments': 2}

Looking at making a portable darkroom for plate preparing all he commercial ones are too much. Can I make one from a suit case reinforced.

{'author': 'TechDante', 'created_utc': 1538555788, 'score': 4, 'num_comments': 4}

Just like in film, is tintype fixer reusable? Also if it is like film fixer, it cant be thrown down the drain, correct?

{'author': 'Americanwolf10', 'created_utc': 1549937869, 'score': 2, 'num_comments': 2}

I am a hobbyist photographer, and as part of that tend to collect all things cool photography related. I have, as part of the things I have found, a bunch of glass negatives that I am rescanning as I type. is this the right place to share them?

{'author': 'FatherStorm', 'created_utc': 1550021673, 'score': 7, 'num_comments': 3}

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{'author': '[deleted]', 'created_utc': 1555941948, 'score': 0, 'num_comments': 1}

Obviously there are a few chemical hacks, certain things can be used for fixer outside of cyanide. But I'm more interested in the gear side. Whether that be lenses, darkboxes, holders, silver baths, anything. Just looking to start a conversation because this process is EXPENSIVE to get started in. I'm currently looking to buildmake a darkbox and trying to see if anyone has made one out of an old suitcase, briefcase, luggage crate... anything. Thanks!

{'author': '[deleted]', 'created_utc': 1561641762, 'score': 3, 'num_comments': 8}

Does anyone use it daylight bulbs or strobes If so what rig are you running?

{'author': 'TechDante', 'created_utc': 1561665465, 'score': 2, 'num_comments': 3}

Hey guys, I posted this over in the monthly question thread on ranalog, and was directed this way! I wanted to know if anyone's got experience shooting on an old foldin medium format camera, something like a kodak autographic or similar vest camera? Or maybe even a box camera like a Brownie? I don't quite have the money for a large format camera right now, but I don't want to let that get in my way of jumping into tintypes! Does anyone have experience andor tips for going this way? Thanks a bunch in advance!

{'author': 'Facilis_San', 'created_utc': 1565396865, 'score': 3, 'num_comments': 9}

I wanted to get started in the process but found the resources about it are rather scattered and or difficult to get a clear answer. What I want to know is 1. What cameras that are more portable seem to work bestare still relatively available. 2. I understand they're 2 different processes but as someone easing their way into this world of alt process would it be easier to prepare dry plates or work with wet plate 3. Really any information about the cameras is what I'm lacking mostly on that and finding a space as a darkroom as I live in a small apartment. Thank you any information helps

{'author': 'mikeyfstops', 'created_utc': 1566310027, 'score': 6, 'num_comments': 4}

Hey folks. Created my very first tintype yesterday, and while I wouldn't call it a failure it certainly isn't a success. And I went ahead and varnished it anyway because it's my first. What I'm trying to understand is why the righthalf of the photo the large teardropshaped area looks more "correct" than the rest of the plate. The exposure is way better and more vibrant than the rest of the photo and I don't understand what happened in that area that didn't happen on the rest of the plate. When you look at it under normal lighting, the left side is extremely dark Taken as a 15 second exposure with a Polaroid 80A. Also I'd really love to know how to quickly pour collodion and varnish smoothly and without glugging.

{'author': 'ccurzio', 'created_utc': 1566727836, 'score': 4, 'num_comments': 3}

I am interested in getting into wet plate photography and I was wondering what people in this community recommend for wattage on their studio strobes. I haven't purchased a strobe before and I'd like to make sure that I have at least the minimum power needed.

{'author': 'robocalypse', 'created_utc': 1566961100, 'score': 3, 'num_comments': 3}

Hey all, I'm an expat living in Singapore and looking to get started with the process. So far I have Quinn's book and video playlist that I picked up in Denver while I was there over the summer, but I'm having trouble finding chemicals in this part of the world. Does anybody know of any resources in this part of the world? I know the big ones in USA and BS will ship here, but for shipping, it's like 500 and I'd rather not do that at all. Thanks for any info you may have and am looking forward to being a part of this community more.

{'author': 'newfishes', 'created_utc': 1567342440, 'score': 1, 'num_comments': 7}

Hi all, I'm hoping to get into the wet plate process but I don't know where to start looking for a camera. I've found several on eBay but they're of course all antiques and a bit out of my price range. I've tried looking for modern cameras but those seem to cost even more Are there any retailers that sell affordable starter kits, or do I just have to get lucky and find a deal on an old camera? Thanks!

{'author': 'beeweston', 'created_utc': 1570450224, 'score': 2, 'num_comments': 2}

So Im new to wet plate and accidentally used well water when mixin my silver bath. I have been sunning and filtering the bath but it is still cloudy. What is my recourse? I know that topshit photography has a video on boiling the silver bath but it seems pretty involved and I am curious about other methods or even if a cloudy silver bath is that bad?

{'author': 'matsutake_sake', 'created_utc': 1570498162, 'score': 3, 'num_comments': 3}

Hello there! I'm newbie to wet plate collodion and I have one question. As I understood from guides after fixing and final rinsing the plate should be dry it before varnishing. So the question is How much time should I dry it before varnishing or how should I understand that the plate has already dried or not? What signs should I pay attention to be sure that the plate is dry. Thank you in advance!

{'author': 'AtisBlr', 'created_utc': 1571861905, 'score': 1, 'num_comments': 2}

I cant seem to source ever clear in the UK, but did come across this polish spirit. Its 95 which I think is the same as everclear? link to a shop selling it

{'author': 'the_heff', 'created_utc': 1577710390, 'score': 4, 'num_comments': 9}

Hey! Im a photographer and Im starting to try to do tintypes. I have a camera and a starter kit from bostick sullivan but am struggling to get it to work. I thought I followed the process correctly but clearly Im missing something. Any tips for starting out or links would be appreciated!

{'author': 'emnicole6', 'created_utc': 1580352421, 'score': 3, 'num_comments': 15}

I haven't done any collodion photography yet, but I definitely plan on getting started soon! after gettingbuilding a large format camera so reading up on the process the collodion emulsion is mostly all blue light sensitive right? So wouldn't a blue filter over the lens work? Since it'd be converting most light hitting the plate blue?

{'author': 'warrior_waffle', 'created_utc': 1580755022, 'score': 1, 'num_comments': 3}

These two were just born for a tintype! This portrait is a gift for his mother and was a beautiful moment to capture! I made this with my 11x14 Deardorff and 5x7 reduction back 360mm lens at f6.8 with two strobes at 130th sec exposure. Do you find that everyone holds their breath as the plate comes up in the fix? I bring the fix tank out of the darkroom to watch the final image come to life with my clients. It seems like we always hold our breath watching the magic happen, and everyone breathes a sigh of excitement when we see the results. x200B Chicago tintypes made with a lot of love and a lot of hard work!

{'author': 'JenJansenPhoto', 'created_utc': 1581088270, 'score': 8, 'num_comments': 2}

When I scan my collodion plates I see so many imperfections and the texture of the black fabric background. Do you guys scan or photograph your plates?

{'author': 'deegott', 'created_utc': 1581687606, 'score': 1, 'num_comments': 4}

Hey! Ive been trying to set up a studio for wet plate portraits and read that blue LED do well with the process. Is this true and if not what type of lighting do you recommend?

{'author': 'emnicole6', 'created_utc': 1581710300, 'score': 3, 'num_comments': 10}

Hi All My friend and I were shooting this weekend in dry conditions. He pointed out the black chunks I was getting near the edges of my plates was the developer not staying in those spots so the plate wasnt developing there. Sure enough on my next plate I was more aware to watch that and try as I might I could not get the the developer to stay there it was pulling away. My exposures were around 1 minute at f64 in relatively low humidity. After talking it out we decided the plate was drying out as I wasnt having this issue earlier in the morning before the heat went up and humidity went down. We discussed and decided after exposure but before development I would resoak my plate in the silver bath for 20 seconds. I did that and pow perfect plates, the developer flowed corrected and I wasnt struggling to get it to stay on. So the question, what is if any the disadvantage to rewetting the plate prior to developing? Collodion was Old Workhorse, Dev is BS dilluted 13 parts water.

{'author': 'dougolupski', 'created_utc': 1581965456, 'score': 2, 'num_comments': 8}

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{'author': '[deleted]', 'created_utc': 1582219706, 'score': 26, 'num_comments': 5}

I am excited to begin learning and shooting wet plate photography. I have been reading books about the process and have purchased my camera and initial materials. My family however, is really concerned about the dangers of the process and want more info before I purchase the chemicals. I have safety glasses and nitrile gloves, I have a place to store everything that is a regular temperature, I understand what is highly flammable and that if ingested many of the chemicals could kill you. Are there additional dangers of which I should be aware? Fumes harm to lungs? Other? I feel like we have a lot of household chemicals which are just as dangerous if improperly used but maybe Im missing something. Any extra info you all can provide about the dangers or safety concerns and how I can be sure to alleviate them would be a huge help to me.

{'author': 'hhudsontaylor', 'created_utc': 1582333428, 'score': 1, 'num_comments': 14}

Suggestions on removal? Doing tin types and my plates weren't 100 dry when I loaded, but I managed to expose and reinsert the dark slide alright. Didn't get to develop them right away and now a few days later I can't get the dark slide out. I tried throwing them in the freezer for a bit to hope that the plate would separate from the slide to no avail. Any other ideas? At this point I figure the images are toast but it would suck to lose function of a few film holders.

{'author': 'accoyle', 'created_utc': 1582432652, 'score': 1, 'num_comments': 4}

I was just thinking if it'd work to use a wet plate in place of photo paper and use a film negative and enlarger to print the image onto the plate then develop the plate normally?

{'author': 'warrior_waffle', 'created_utc': 1584649747, 'score': 2, 'num_comments': 7}

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{'author': '[deleted]', 'created_utc': 1586577768, 'score': 74, 'num_comments': 8}

Hi! I recently got into tintype photography and have my first order of chemicals coming in tomorrow I was wondering how all of you recommend disposing of silver nitrate and collodion? I read on the SDS page for silver nitrate that there was an environmental hazard association so wasnt sure of the best practices. I also read that collodion could just be poured out into grass to evaporate but not sure of the credibility of the source. Sorry if this has been asked before! Thanks! Would love any input

{'author': 'kalediddy', 'created_utc': 1586817087, 'score': 6, 'num_comments': 4}

Hello everyone! Thanks for all your help on my last post! Im having a new problem now and hoping for some advice! Whenever Im done fixing the image and washing it in water, a grayish fog starts to come on the edges of the plate and slowly covers the whole image. Even if I varnish the plate, the plate will start to fog almost instantly after being taken out of the water. Ive tried lightly heating the plate and running water over it to try and recover the color and image, but the image doesnt come any closer to being like it was freshly after the initial rinse. Any ideas would be appreciated!!

{'author': 'kalediddy', 'created_utc': 1587509648, 'score': 3, 'num_comments': 3}

Hi everyone, I recently moved in to a home and found three lenses in the crawl space. I'd like to resurrect them but I'm unsure how to start. One of the lenses is unmarked. The other two lenses have the following inscriptions "7862 C.C. Harrison New York" this is the large one which measures 8" tall, front element is about 3.5" in diameter "THE PORTRAIT RAPID RECTILINEAR No. 718 18 x 22 to 20 x 24 O.H. PECK Sole Agent MINNEAPOLIS" this one measures 7" tall, front element is 3" in diameter I've done research and found some information via Google search for the C.C. Harrison, but not for my specific model. Would anyone have more information, example photos... anything? I'm guessing I'm missing some plates to control the aperture? Is there a method to determine what size of large format camera I should build? 18 x 22? 20 x 24?.second photo in comments Thank you so much in advance.

{'author': 'law_nate', 'created_utc': 1587657554, 'score': 2, 'num_comments': 4}

Looking for a supplier of chemistry that ships to Alaska for a reasonable price. Bostwick and Sullivan is pretty pricy for being new. UV photographic doesn't ship to AK. Any suggestions?

{'author': 'weld9', 'created_utc': 1587683824, 'score': 1, 'num_comments': 1}

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{'author': '[deleted]', 'created_utc': 1589468692, 'score': 15, 'num_comments': 5}

Hello everyone. I am wondering if I could use a red plastic storage tote as a mobile dark room. Most plastic totes seem to let light in to a certain degree, but I was thinking if the tote itself is red it may illuminate the interior for use as a portable darkroom while shooting outdoors and the sun is shining on it. does this make sense? Does anybody have any thoughts on this? Obviously, certain wavelengths of light will fog plates, but I didn't know if anyone had tried something like this before. I've got a lot of back pain, so I'm trying to think of ways I can still do wet plate without a massive, heavy darkbox.

{'author': 'snaveyrich', 'created_utc': 1589472467, 'score': 1, 'num_comments': 2}

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{'author': '[deleted]', 'created_utc': 1589687101, 'score': 1, 'num_comments': 1}

I'm going to start building my first LF camera this weekend, I plan on mostly shooting wet and maybe dry plate out of it, I'm also just starting to get into shooting and developing my own BW 35mm film, and while researching different development techniques and chemicals I came across caffinol, and made we wonder, would caffinol work for developing a wet plate?

{'author': 'warrior_waffle', 'created_utc': 1590104558, 'score': 5, 'num_comments': 1}

3 days ago my wet plate stuff came. Upon opening it I noticed that my silver nitrate bottle had split open and I had lost about 18th of it. I messaged the supplier and they said that it doesnt usually happen but is fine. I tried to make my first plates today, coated them with collodion and then dropped them into my silver nitrate bath which is room temperature. After 5 minutes, it didnt look very milky. After about 7, it hadnt really changed but I decided to just go with it anyway and give it a shot. My first plate had barely any image on whatsoever. My second plate had absolutely no image on and isnt even silvery it looks brown and murky. Im extremely confused Im guessing Im doing something wrong but I dont know where. Any ideastips?

{'author': 'AXRNC', 'created_utc': 1590178841, 'score': 3, 'num_comments': 9}

I am wondering if you guys could share some pictures of how you transport your chemicals and such. Should I get like a box or something more like an open top tool box?

{'author': 'emmathatsme123', 'created_utc': 1591153961, 'score': 8, 'num_comments': 4}

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{'author': '[deleted]', 'created_utc': 1592494268, 'score': 2, 'num_comments': 3}

Hey everyone! Im practicing my varnishing and Im having trouble with getting my plates to have a smooth texture. It looks like there may be air bubbles? or something that gives a pebblelike texture. The plates look completely fine when looked at head on, but in a certain light will show the bubbles on the surface. Anyone experienced this or have any tips for getting rid of them?

{'author': 'kalediddy', 'created_utc': 1592974343, 'score': 2, 'num_comments': 1}

Ill be in Iceland in July. Considering to take my wetplateequipment with me. Can anybody help finding the chemicals in Iceland? Does anyone have an idea if I can ship collodion to Iceland? Ideas, recommendations, contacts are much appreciated. Thanks for your help!

{'author': 'nitschlas', 'created_utc': 1592986048, 'score': 1, 'num_comments': 2}

Hi all, simple research mission here. Looking to buy portable and collapsibleexpandable darkbox. I've been lusting over wetplatewagons darkboxes for some time but struggle to afford them. I am fairly useless at DIY so if I didn't buy one from a current maker, I would need to commission someone to make one for me. So just seeing if anyone knows of any more affordable darkboxes on the market right now? Thanks

{'author': 'studiesinsilver', 'created_utc': 1594332261, 'score': 6, 'num_comments': 12}

Hello, Would you please recommend a proper focal length antique brass lense to fit my 5 x 7 view camera? Thanks.

{'author': 'Minolta_Bert', 'created_utc': 1594866590, 'score': 1, 'num_comments': 4}

Did anybody tryied to clean already coated and developed plate? How to do it without leaving scratch marks on plate itself? Idea of just recycling aluminium plates sounds like a huge waste of money and materials. Is there a proven way to avoid it?

{'author': 'tuna_pannini', 'created_utc': 1595602875, 'score': 6, 'num_comments': 3}

I am researching into doing this in Japan. I Ive got an Intrepid 4 x 5 field camera, plan to start with that. There are two chemicals which seem to be difficult to find here. First is silver nitrate crystals. Well its here but highly regulated so it looks difficult to get that over the counter. For silver nitrate I think Im going to attempt to import it rather than buy it here. The other one is cadmium bromide. I see most of the recipes for Collodion use cadmium bromide which is unavailable here. I am able to get potassium bromide, however. Can that be used instead?

{'author': 'JapanKevin', 'created_utc': 1595666785, 'score': 3, 'num_comments': 6}

hi, my wife and I started to try this process for fun. First we started by buying the Rockland tintype Parlor Kit, it was a nice kit to start with. When we ran out of chemicals and plates we were thinking on buying again the kit, but we thought that it may be cheaper to just buy things separately. So we got the Liquid light gel from Rockland, and then we got the plates and chemicals from other store a lot cheaper.  When we develop this new batch we couldn't get the picture to look like the ones made by the kit, in the sense that it always look as a "Negative". Before old kit we were able to get a positive. This is a pic of the plate that was "best" of the batch that we process as you can see it came out as a negative instead of positive like we were used to.  Maybe is because the developer is different, or the fixer wasn't diluted properly, the developing times are wrong or maybe it doesn't have anything to do with that.  So my question is, what went wrong?.  We are fairly new to this so any help would be welcome.

{'author': 'notatall79', 'created_utc': 1595986272, 'score': 4, 'num_comments': 4}

I've had the book "Primitive Photography" by Alan Greene for a few years now. I've got to a point where I'd like to give it a try. I used to do conventional BW photography years ago. But the book is all about the calotype process, and I've been able to find very little additional information about that. On the other hand, there's lots of wet plate info around. So this has me wondering if there's a reason I'm missing why no one does calotypes. I know this process doesn't use collodion, but I'm sure where else to look. Thanks.

{'author': 'NN8G', 'created_utc': 1596119131, 'score': 3, 'num_comments': 2}

I've started experimenting with ambrotypes having previously done aluminotype and have run into a strange issue when I try and apply a black backing of spray paint. From the start I follow the typical process of flow the plate, expose, develop, wash, varnish. At this point I left the plates vanished for several days to fully drycure indoors and the next weekend I applied a couple of coats of matte black spray paint to the varnished side of the plate. After letting the paint dry 3045 minutes the ambrotypes looked good. I then left the plates outside to fully dry for about 24 hours. When I brought them back inside a strange white residue had formed between the collodion and the glass images below. Does any one know what this is, or what I did wrong to cause it? The couple of notable things that I think might be the issue 1 Spray paint just shouldn't be used to black out the back, too many other chemicals in it that might react poorly. 2 Leaving the plates outside for 24 hours, getting some direct sun causing some unwanted reaction. 3 I've got bad karma. Here are some pictures of the ambrotypes before and after the spray paint was applied and the white residue showed up, with a close up of the residue

{'author': 'mereel', 'created_utc': 1597384232, 'score': 5, 'num_comments': 4}

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{'author': '[deleted]', 'created_utc': 1598311549, 'score': 6, 'num_comments': 12}

I have spend this weekend learning about tintypes but the one thing I am curious about it taking an existing image and creating a tintype from it. . It seems to be a tricky question to search for because all the results end up being photoshop filters. My idea was to take a high quality portrait of a historical figure and reproduce the image as a tintype. . For example, I want to take this image of Emiliano Zapata and make a tintype. Would the process be the same as shooting a regular tintype except you take it of the image? Do you project the image onto the light sensitive plate?

{'author': '1234534636', 'created_utc': 1598819343, 'score': 3, 'num_comments': 4}

I'm having a hard time finding chemicals as the UK isnt shipping them anymore. Does anyone know where I might get them in Spain or someone who will deliver internationally? TIA

{'author': 'josephl067', 'created_utc': 1599423425, 'score': 3, 'num_comments': 3}

I'm going to order my chemicals soon, but I'm wondering where I can get the cheapest aluminum plates. All the places I've found online seem super expensive...

{'author': 'LaPetitFleuret', 'created_utc': 1599955922, 'score': 4, 'num_comments': 2}

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{'author': '[deleted]', 'created_utc': 1602180175, 'score': 9, 'num_comments': 18}

I'm currently using a 125w 6500k fluorescent bulb I found which seems to be working ok, but the light seems quite harsh. I was considering getting a couple bulbs since they're fairly inexpensive but the problem is that they're not the easiest to set up, quite big to store store and not easy to fit in the limited 'studio' space I have. I came across a video from LundPhotographics showing off their blue LED panel but the price is extortionate so looked for similar alternatives since I quite like the size and ease of an LED panel over a setup using bulbs. I found this which appears as if it would work the same as, if not better, than the LundPhotographics one. I can probably get about 23 of them for the same price as a couple bulbs. Is it worth getting the LED panels over the bulbs or should I just get the bulbs? Any downsides to either of them?

{'author': 'AXRNC', 'created_utc': 1602624169, 'score': 5, 'num_comments': 8}

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{'author': '[deleted]', 'created_utc': 1603586142, 'score': 2, 'num_comments': 4}

Looking for advise on taking pictures of my tintypes. How do you do it?

{'author': 'n_oeil', 'created_utc': 1603733870, 'score': 3, 'num_comments': 8}

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{'author': '[deleted]', 'created_utc': 1604207390, 'score': 3, 'num_comments': 1}

I'm shooting with a Graflex 4x5 around f4 with a single speedotron 2403 and 2 102 flash units. I've got both heads plugged into the center of the 2403 and switches to combine. I've found that even close to the subject, with the flashes, I have to open the shutter and fire the flashes twice total of maybe 56 seconds of expsosure to get a good shot. Is this normal? Is there any way to reduce that down to a single firing of the flash without upgrading to a 4803?

{'author': 'personalhale', 'created_utc': 1604496681, 'score': 5, 'num_comments': 10}

Hi all, I'm just getting into this process but seem to have run in to a problem. I've tried it twice, with no problems either time. I pour the collodion, put it in a bath of silver nitrate, expose, developrinse and then fix. The thing is, my images don't turn out at all, it's just a black plate with some white pour marks. The only thing I can think of is the fact that I submerged my plates in a tray of silver nitrate instead of a tank. Would this make any difference? The only other thing I can think of is that there's a hole in my bellows, though I can't seem to find it if there is. Thanks!

{'author': 'beeweston', 'created_utc': 1604975700, 'score': 7, 'num_comments': 22}

So Ive been having issues where I get darkening across the furthers edge when developing. It always look like a fogging if the background is light. I was wondering if its the amount of dev Im using and would like to compare with others. I am thinking that the developer is running out strength by the time it gets to the other side of the plate. I shoot whole plate tintypes and use 25ml of home made developer no sugar restraints.

{'author': 'postatomic1977', 'created_utc': 1605270620, 'score': 3, 'num_comments': 3}

Hey! I apologize if this isn't the right sub for this, but here it goes. For years I've been involved in the history field and have always found 19th century wet plate photography and old time photography in general interesting. I'd love to get into the hobby, but I'm not even sure where to begin. Where can I purchase a camera? What kind of camera do I need? What are some good books to pick up on the subject? Where do you get the chemicals needed to develop your work? How do I handle them? Basically, what do I need to get started? Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!

{'author': 'Iamjackslama', 'created_utc': 1606074609, 'score': 5, 'num_comments': 5}

I'm using chemicals from BS. I did a handful of successful tintypes with them but haven't used them for two years. Decided to just try it out without checking gravity or anything. Did two tintypes, which came out really dark, but still worked. Anyway, when I applied varnish, it destroyed the image. Went blurry at first, then eventually looked like nothing. What did I do wrong?

{'author': 'Lareden', 'created_utc': 1606524941, 'score': 6, 'num_comments': 8}

As anyone finishing their ambrotypes with a black lacquer or paint? If so what do you userecommend? Are there resources of knowledge on this subject you can share? Thank you.

{'author': 'n_oeil', 'created_utc': 1607371823, 'score': 5, 'num_comments': 7}

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{'author': '[deleted]', 'created_utc': 1607624613, 'score': 5, 'num_comments': 32}

What do you do to make sure the plate is clean before varnishing? Please share your process from fixer to varnish. Thanks.

{'author': 'n_oeil', 'created_utc': 1607737455, 'score': 7, 'num_comments': 5}

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{'author': '[deleted]', 'created_utc': 1608589061, 'score': 13, 'num_comments': 5}

I'm gradually putting a LF camera together with an enforced minimal budget, by buying cheap parts as they come up on eBay and makingrepairing. What I can't find cheaply is a back standard ideally Arca Swiss 4 5. I could have a go at making one, but getting the focus screen to lay exactly on the film plane and get it light tight etc might be a bit too much work I only get the odd lunch break on this project. Any tips or advice?

{'author': '[deleted]', 'created_utc': 1608599627, 'score': 3, 'num_comments': 11}

Hey there Looking to find a little cheat for getting the perfect exposures in Studio light. I've been using a light meter obvi but for Collodion I assume it may differ a little? I'd love any recs books, articles, pro tips etc.

{'author': 'emily_m_getsay', 'created_utc': 1611419797, 'score': 6, 'num_comments': 4}

Hello there friends. I recently started to search for easy ways to get into alternative processes. Than I found pelargonium printing wich instantly caught my eye. I need iodine to develope the leaf. Due to quarentine the only one I can seem to find is " IODINE Solution 5 Antiseptic" Is that what I need? Appreciate the help

{'author': 'GolgariProject', 'created_utc': 1612201284, 'score': 0, 'num_comments': 1}

Has anyone here ever tried to improve sensitivity of collodion to red and green light? I've been reading about early color photographic experimentation, and I believe I might be able to make a crude color photo with collodion using similar methods. I'm planning on applying different dyes to 3 ambrotype plates, exposing them with a color filter matching the dye, then coloring and layering the images digitally to see if I can get any result. If somebody has tried anything like this before, I'd love to hear about it!

{'author': 'LaPetitFleuret', 'created_utc': 1612329058, 'score': 4, 'num_comments': 11}

Any ideas ?

{'author': 'jonjonpseudo', 'created_utc': 1612345543, 'score': 6, 'num_comments': 9}

I got my hands on a Century View Camera from 1902, and I'd love to fix it up and get a few photos from it. I've done a bunch of research on wet and dry plating, but before I dive into one of them I want to confirm that they are interchangeable, and that there isn't a specific one dedicated to a certain type of camera. Any input and recommendations would be super helpful!

{'author': 'M3gi3', 'created_utc': 1613188271, 'score': 3, 'num_comments': 4}

Hey guys. Been shooting wet plate for about a year now but Ive limited my work to outdoor shade and Id like to take my work into the studio. Im having trouble figuring deciding between two drastically different lighting setups, so Id greatly appreciate any advice. Option 1 Paul C Buff Zeus Ring Master Light with M1000 power pack White Lightning X2400 monolight for fill. Option 2 Two large LED panels from Amazon Im having trouble figuring out if the LED Panels will actually work. An article I was reading said two of these panels cranked up to full power and 6500k will be enough. Im v skeptical of this... On the strobes, Ive seen a couple people recommend White Lightning strobes but everything I see on the Paul C Buff site suggests their bulbs have a UV blocking coating. This setup is definitely more expensive, so I would hate to go this route only to find that the bulbs wont work. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated!

{'author': 'fuckin-slayer', 'created_utc': 1613419711, 'score': 1, 'num_comments': 14}

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{'author': '[deleted]', 'created_utc': 1613480118, 'score': 36, 'num_comments': 4}

I'm just about to start working with wet plates, can anyone tell me if Renaissance Wax can be used as a coating instead of varnish? Thanks

{'author': 'gmac502', 'created_utc': 1613646589, 'score': 1, 'num_comments': 4}

Hello guys, I've wanted to start shooting with collodion for a while and recently bought an old wooden plate camera that's on it's way. Throughout my research I've only found one online store that ships to Portugal. The question is where do you European guys buy your chems?

{'author': 'jmrssc', 'created_utc': 1614719198, 'score': 5, 'num_comments': 4}